CHAPTER 12

STREAM FUNCTION WAVE THEORY; VALIDITY AND APPLICATION

By Robert G. Dean,l A. M. ASCE

SYNOPS1S

The engineer required to calculate theoretical wave characteristics

such as wave profiles and wave forces and moments on piling, is confronted
with a problem which includes (1) selecting one of a number of available
theories and (2) calculating the required information which, for some of
the theories, is a relatively complicated procedure. This paper presents
criteria for assessing the validity of various wave theories; these
criteria are then applied to test the validity of several theories for
two wave conditions and, it is found that for these conditions, the Stream
function numerical wave theory is the most valid of those tested. The
Stream function theory is developed into graphs of dimensionless crest
displacement, and total maximum wave forces and moments on a vertical
piling.

~ormerlY: Senior Research Engineer, Chevron Research Company,

LaHabra, California. Presently: Acting Associate Professor of Oceanography,
University of Washington, Seattle, Washington.

269
270 COASTAL ENGINEERING

INTRODUCTION

The problems o f a n a l y s i s ( t o determine drag and i n e r t i a c o e i

^y,e s u b j e c t s

and c a l c u l a t i o n o f t h e o r e t i c a l waves and wave f o r c e s have been ^'

o f c o n s i d e r a b l e i n v e s t i g a t i o n d\iring t h e p a s t 15 years. These 3-'

analysis
t i o n s have r e s u l t e d i n the p r e s e n t a t i o n o f a f a i r l y wide range "-^
some
r e s u l t s and i n the development o f s e v e r a l n o n l i n e a r wave theori® '
. j i e design
of ^rtiich a r e n o t i n reasonable accord. The problem c o n f r o n t i n g
particular

engineer i s t h e r e f o r e a d i f f i c u l t one; t h a t i s t o s e l e c t f o r tïi®

design c o n d i t i o n s t h e most v a l i d a n a l y s i s r e s u l t s f o r use w i t h ^

gj,on o f
p r o p e r wave t h e o r y . The p r e s e n t paper w i l l n o t i n c l u d e a d i s c U ^
^ t n e paper
the problem o f s e l e c t i o n o f a n a l y s i s r e s u l t s . Ihe purposes o i
-vjave
are t o (1) p r e s e n t a b a s i s f o r assessing the v a l i d i t y o f v a r i o H ^
t h e o r i e s and t o a p p l y t h i s t o two cases, and ( 2 ) t o p r e s e n t g r ^ P ' ^
^ « o n piling;
dimensionless c r e s t displacement, t o t a l wave f o r c e s and moment»
_ v i i c h , on

these graphs a r e developed f r o m a Stream f u n c t i o n wave t h e o r y •*

t l i e b a s i s o f two cases t e s t e d , appears more v a l i d t h a n o t h e r 0-^

wave t h e o r i e s .
CRITERIA FOR ASSESSING THE VALIDITIES OF WAVE THEORIES

^ a for

The purpose o f t h i s s e c t i o n i s t o develop a r a t i o n a l cri'ts^

assessing t h e v a l i d i t i e s o f v a r i o u s a v a i l a b l e wave t h e o r i e s .
_;ntiation
The t h e o r e t i c a l wave l i t e r a t u r e p r e s e n t s v e r y l i t t l e
inf<^-^
-^3.6 wave
p e r t a i n i n g t o the r e l a t i v e a p p l i c a b i l i t y o f the various a v a i l ^ * - ^
 271
STREAM FUNCTION

theories. W i l s o n ^ , i n a s h o r t d i s c u s s i o n , has I n d i c a t e d r e g i o n s o f v a l i ' ^ ^ ' ' ^

f o r s e v e r a l o f t h e wave t h e o r i e s , however a l l o f t h e a v a i l a b l e t h e o r i e s

were n o t i n c l u d e d i n V/ilson's p r e s e n t a t i o n . Furthermore, W i l s o n d i d no*

a t t e m p t t o d i s c u s s , i n h i s s h o r t p r e s e n t a t i o n , h i s b a s i s f o r assessii>S

the v a l i d i t i e s o f t h e v a r i o u s t h e o r i e s .

The engineer r e q u i r e d t o c a l c u l a t e t h e o r e t i c a l wave i n f o r m a t i o n trais^

s e l e c t one from a number o f a v a i l a b l e wave t h e o r i e s , i n c l u d i n g : Aii^

wave t h e o r y ^ . Stokes t h i r d o r d e r t h e o r y ^ . Stokes f i f t h order t h e o r y ^ >

C n o i d a l wave t h e o r y ^ , S o l i t a r y wave theory'^. V e l o c i t y p o t e n t i a l

S j i l s o n , B. W., D i s c u s s i o n o f paper "Long Wave M o d i f i c a t i o n b y Jji-'^®^

T r a n s i t i o n s " , J . Waterways and Harbors D i v i s i o n , Proc. ASCE, v . 90,

Nov. 1961;.

•^Wiegel, R. L., " G r a v i t y Waves, Tables o f F u n c t i o n s " , P u b l l s h e < i

C o u n c i l on Wave Research, The E n g i n e e r i n g Foundation, Richmond, C a X i ^ ' ^ ' ^ * '

Feb. 19$h.

^ S k j e l b r e i a , L., " G r a v i t y Waves, Stokes T h i r d Order A p p r o x i m a t e ' - ' ^ '

Tables o f F u n c t i o n s " , Published b y t h e Council on Wave Research, T l x ^

E n g i n e e r i n g Foundation, Richmond, C a l i f o r n i a , 1959.

^ S k j e l b r e i a , L., and Hendrickson, J . A., " F i f t h Order G r a v i t y W^'^^

Theory w i t h Tables o f F u n c t i o n s " , N a t i o n a l Engineering Science C o m s u f ^ '

Pasadena, C a l i f o r n i a , 1962

^Masch, F. D., and Wiegel, R. L., "Cnoidal Waves, Tables o f F t * * * * ' * ^ ' " ^ ^ " '
ïchmond
P u b l i s h e d b y C o u n c i l on Wave Research, The Engineering Foundation,

C a l i f o r n i a , 1961.

"^Munk, W. H.,
H. "The S o l i t a r y Wave and I t s A p p l i c a t i o n t o S u r f p - r r r o b l e m s

Ann. N. Y. Acad. S o l . , v . 5 l , p. 376-k2k, 19U9.

 2T2 COASTAL ENGINEERING

numerical wave t h e o r y ^ , Stream f u n c t i o n n u m e r i c a l wave t h e o r y ^ , and perhaps

others. Several o f these t h e o r i e s ^ ' ^ ' ^ ' ^ have been t a b u l a t e d f o r r e l a t i v e l y

easy c a l c u l a t i o n o f wave p r o f i l e s and wave f o r c e s and moments on v e r t i c a l

piling. There i s no well-fotmded b a s i s , however, f o r s e l e c t i o n o f t h e

most a p p l i c a b l e o f t h e seven, o r more, a v a i l a b l e wave t h e o r i e s . I t i s

g e n e r a l l y assumed t h a t the h i g h e r order S t o k l a n t h e o r i e s a r e improvements

over the lower order t h e o r i e s ; c e r t a i n l y t h e amount o f e f f o r t t o develop

the h i g h e r order t h e o r i e s i s g r e a t e r . Recent q u e s t i o n s have been r a i s e d

whether o r n o t t h e h i g h e r order t h e o r i e s a r e u n i f o r m l y more v a l i d than

t h e lower order t h e o r i e s . The Cnoidal and S o l i t a r y wave t h e o r i e s a r e

developed f o r t h e l o n g e r waves, however no p u b l i s h e d i n f o r m a t i o n i s a v a i l -

a b l e f o r j u d g i n g t h e r e l a t i v e m e r i t s o f , say, t h e h i g h e r o r d e r S t o k l a n

t h e o r i e s and t h e Cnoidal o r S o l i t a r y wave t h e o r i e s .

I n o r d e r t o develop t h e c r i t e r i a f o r assessing the v a l i d i t i e s o f t h e

v a r i o u s wave t h e o r i e s , i t w i l l be necessary t o d e s c r i b e b r i e f l y t h e non-

l i n e a r wave f o r m u l a t i o n .

Nonlinear Wave Theory F o r m u l a t i o n ; Two Dimensional Case.—The n o n l i n e a r

wave t h e o i y i s f o r m u l a t e d as a boundary v a l u e problem; t h e f o m u l a t i o n v j i l l

be presented here f o r the tvro-dimensional case. Boundary v a l u e problems

are s p e c i f i e d b y ( l ) a d i f f e r e n t i a l equation p r e s c r i b e d on t h e i n t e r i o r

Chappelear, J . H., " D i r e c t Numerical C a l c u l a t i o n o f Wave P r o p e r t i e s " ,

J. Geophys. Res.. 66(2), p. 501-^08, Feb. 1961.

^Dean, R. G., "Stream F u n c t i o n Representation o f Nonlinear Ocean

Waves", J . Geophys. Res.. 7 0 ( l 8 ) , p. U56l-li572, Sept. 1965.

 STREAM FUNCTION 273

o f t h e r e g i o n o f i n t e r e s t , and ( 2 ) c o n d i t i o n s vdiich must be s a t i s f i e d

on t h e boundaries o f t h e r e g i o n . The number o f r e q u i r e d c o n d i t i o n s on

each boundary depends on t h e n a t u r e o f t h e boundary, e.g., whether t h e

boundary i s f i x e d o r f r e e t o move under t h e a c t i o n o f f o r c e s .

The t h e o r e t i c a l wave f o r m u l a t i o n has been presented eiseerdere^

and w i l l t h e r e f o r e be described here o n l y i n b r i e f d e t a i l .

R e f e r r i n g t o F i g u r e 1 , the d i f f e r e n t i a l e q u a t i o n t o be s a t i s f i e d on

the wave i n t e r i o r f o r an i n c o m p r e s s i b l e , i r r o t a t l o n a l f l u i d i s Laplace's

equation w r i t t e n f o r e i t h e r the v e l o c i t y p o t e n t i a l $ o r t h e stream

function Y, i . e . ,

V^^ = V^Y = 0

ertiere = — 2 - + -2
9x2 2j,2

The v e l o c i t y p o t e n t i a l and stream f u n c t i o n a r e d e f i n e d i n terms o f

the v e l o c i t y components, i . e . ,

^ = -Yz = -4>,

(2)

The sea bottcan i s considered impermeable and h o r i z o n t a l ; the specified

condition a t t h i s boundary i s t h a t t h e v e r t i c a l component o f v e l o c i t y i s

zero, i . e . ,

" = -(^^ = =0 , z = -h (3)

 CO
Direction o f

MEAN WATER
LEVEL
O

CO
>
t-'
H

s
M
M
I—(
:^
o
VELOCITY
COMPONENTS

FIG 1 DEFINITION SKETCH, WAVE A N D

PILING SYSTEIVl.
 STREAM FUNCTION 275

Because t h e f r e e s u r f a c e i s n o t c o n s t r a i n e d , b u t i s f r e e t o move under

the a c t i o n o f f o r c e s , two boundary c o n d i t i o n s must be s p e c i f i e d on t h i s

boundary: (1) a k i n e m a t i c boundary c o n d i t i o n which eocpresses t h a t t h e

motion o f t h e w a t e r p a r t i c l e s a t the f r e e surface a r e i n accord w i t h t h e

motion o f the f r e e surface, and (2) a dynamic boundary c o n d i t i o n speci-

f y i n g t h e u n i f o r m i t y o f pressure on t h e free s u r f a c e , i . e . ,

S ' ^1^ = " , . =1 (W

and ^
7 + 2i b-^^'^ J " i ^t = ' = ='!

I f t h e wave i s assumed t o propagate w i t h t h e wave c e l e r i t y , C, and

w i t h o u t change o f form and i f a r e f e r e n c e c o o r d i n a t e system i s chosen

•atioh moves w i t h t h e wave, t h e n t h e problem i s reduced t o one o f steady

m o t i o n and Eqs. ( l ) and (3) a r e u n a f f e c t e d b u t Eqs. ( i i ) and ( 5 ) a r e

s i m p l i f i e d t o t h e f o l l o w i n g forms,

3x - ïï^ (6)

7 + [(^ - of + w2] = oonstg = Q (7)

Eq. ( 7 ) i s t h e f a m i l i a r B e r n o u l l i e q u a t i o n f o r steady s t a t e conditions.

Eqs. (1), (3), (6), and (7) now r e p r e s e n t t h e s p e c i f i c a t i o n o f t h e

t h e o r e t i c a l wave; i t t h e r e f o r e appears t h a t t h e o n l y way o f a s s e s s i n g

the r e l a t i v e v a l i d i t y o f v a r i o u s wave t h e o r i e s i s t o compare t h e degree

t o w h i c h they s a t i s f y t h e s p e c i f y i n g e q u a t i o n s .
276 COASTAL ENGINEERING

No a t t e m p t w i l l be made i n t h e p r e s e n t paper t o c a r r y o u t a comprehensive

i n v e s t i g a t i o n o f a l l a v a i l a b l e wave t h e o r i e s f o r a l l wave c o n d i t i o n s o f

interest. As examples, two cases w i l l be examined f o r which t h e wave h e i g h t

i s about ^0% o f t h e b r e a k i n g h e i g h t .

The two cases s e l e c t e d f o r study and t h e t h e o r i e s f o r which t h e boimdary

c o n d i t i o n f i t s were c a l c u l a t e d a r e shown i n Table 1.

TABLE 1.—CHARACTERISTICS OF WAVES CHOSEN FOR BOUNDARY

CONDITION COMPART SUN

Approximate Boimdary C o n d i t i o n s Checked f o r Theory

Wave C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s
Case Cnoidal Stream
H T h Airy Stokes Stokes
Third Fifth Function
(ft) (sec) (ft)
(Order)

1 l5.0 13.0 30 X X X X X (7)

2 lll.O 5.80 100 X X X (2)

Because most o f t h e wave t h e o r i e s o f i n t e r e s t ( A i r y , Stokes' T h i r d ,

S t o k e s ' F i f t h , and Stream F u n c t i o n ) s a t i s f y t h e d i f f e r e n t i a l e q u a t i o n and

b o t t o m boundary c o n d i t i o n e x a c t l y , o n l y t h e f i t s t o the two f r e e s u r f a c e

boundary c o n d i t i o n s w i l l be employed as measures o f the r e l a t i v e v a l i d i t i e s

o f t h e v a r i o u s wave t h e o r i e s .

The two " l o c a l " e r r o r components d e f i n e d f o r t h i s study a r e ( l ) as

a measure o f t h e e r r o r i n t h e f r e e s u r f a c e k i n e m a t i c boundary c o n d i t i o n , i . e . .
 STREAM FUNCTION

Ax. - u.-C ^1^ , z = >?. (8)

and ( 2 ) C^, t h e e r r o r i n t h e f r e e s u r f a c e dynamic boundary c o n d i t i o n as

d e f i n e d by

* - + "i^] = % ' 2 = •••• (9)

where the s u b s c r i p t , i , i n d i c a t e s v a r i o u s wave phase p o s i t i o n s and Q i s

the average B e r n o u l l i " c o n s t a n t " . The f i n i t e d i f f e r e n c e a p p r o x i m a t i o n

to ^ as r e p r e s e n t e d i n Eq. (Ö) i s n o t exact and w i l l therefore

i n t r o d u c e a c o n t r i b u t i o n t o €-^, T h i s a p p r o x i m a t i o n , however, will

p r o b a b l y c o n t r i b u t e about t h e same t o a l l t h e o r i e s . Because, as w i l l

be d e s c r i b e d l a t e r , t h e Stream f u n c t i o n wave t h e o r y f i t s the k i n e m a t i c

boundary c o n d i t i o n e x a c t l y , t h e € ^ c o n t r i b u t i o n s f o r t h i s t h e o r y will

serve as an i n d i c a t i o n o f e r r o r s due t o t h i s a p p r o x i m a t i o n .

To summarize t h e Case 1 and Case 2 l o c a l e r r o r i n f o r m a t i o n , an

o v e r - a l l range e r r o r { E ) j j i s d e f i n e d , i . e . ,

(%)R -= |(^l)max. - ( ^ i W I (10)

A s i m i l a r d e f i n i t i o n f o r (E^)!^ a p p l i e s .

F i g u r e 2 p r e s e n t s t h e Case 1 comparisons o f t h e boundary c o n d i t i o n

f i t s b y t h e v a r i o u s wave t h e o r i e s . The corresponding i n f o r m a t i o n f o r

Case 2 was n o t c a l c u l a t e d i n as complete form. The Case 1 and p a r t i a l

Case 2 o v e r - a l l e r r o r i n f o r m a t i o n i s p r e s e n t e d i n Table 2.
278 COASTAL ENGINEERING

LEGEND

FIG. 2. COMPARISON OF BOUNDARY CONDITION ERRORS. C A S E I.

 STREAM FUNCTION 279

TABLE 2.~SUI4MARY OF OVER-ALL BUUNDARI CONDxTION ERRORS

Wave C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s Over-all Error

Case Theory-
H T h (%)R
(ft) (sec) (ft)

1 15.0 13.30 30.0 Airy 0.066 0.1i95

I l i . 53 13.29 30.0 Stokes I I I 0.211i 2.026

13.2 12.25 30.0 Stokes V 0.071 5.105

15.0 13.30 30.0 Cnoidal 0.176 li.835

111.95 13.30 30.0 Stream Fn. ( 7 ) * 0.059** O.OOli

2 lli.0 5.8 100.0 Airy 0.102 1.762

lll.O 5.8 100.0 Stokes V Not 0.027

calculated

lli.1 5.8 100.0 Stream Fn. ( 2 ) * 0.009** 0.012

Order o f Stream f u n c t i o n t h e o r y .

A c t u a l l y zero.

DISCUSSION OF VAUDITEES OF VARIOUS WAVE THEORIES

Case I . — F r o m Table 2 i t i s seen t h a t o f t h e Stokes' t h e o r i e s tested

( t h e A i i y t h e o r y w i l l be regarded as "Stokes' 1 " t h e o r y ) , t h e o v e r - a l l

k i n e m a t i c boundary c o n d i t i o n e r r o r s , ( E j ^ ) ^ , a r e l a r g e s t f o r t h e S t o k e s ' ij.1

t h e o r y and a r e about t h e same f o r t h e A i r y and Stokes' V t h e o r i e s . The

o v e r - a l l dynamic boundary c o n d i t i o n e r r o r s , ( E 2 ) R , a r e u n i f o r m l y better

f o r t h e lower o r d e r Stokes' t h e o r i e s . The reasons t h a t t h e h i g h e r o r d e r

In. w
 280 COASTAL ENGINEERING

Stokes' t h e o r i e s do n o t p r o v i d e b e t t e r f i t s than t h e lower o r d e r t h e o r i e s

~) i s n o t obvious. Perhaps t h e h i g h e r o r d e r t h e o r i e s should n o t be employed

f o r t h e r e l a t i v e l y shallow-water c o n d i t i o n s o f t h i s example (water d e p t h /

•wave l e n g t h = 0.068). A second, and t h e author b e l i e v e s a more p l a u s i b l e

i
/ e x p l a n a t i o n , i s t h a t d i f f e r e n t a n a l y t i c a l approaches should be employed

''iin t h e development o f S t o k i a n t h e o r i e s i n s h a l l o w and deep-water c o n d i -

('
tions.
'i
The k i n e m a t i c boundary c o n d i t i o n e r r o r s a s s o c i a t e d w i t h t h e C n o i d a l

wave t h e o i y a r e s l i g h t l y l e s s than corresponding Stokes' I I I e r r o r s . Th©

dynamic boundary c o n d i t i o n e r r o r s , however, a r e over t w i c e as l a r g e f o r

t h e C n o i d a l t h e o r y as f o r t h e Stokes' 111 t h e o r y . The Cnoidal t h e o r y

i s g e n e r a l l y regarded as b e i n g a p p l i c a b l e f o r shallow-water c o n d i t i o n s .

The Stream f u n c t i o n wave t h e o r y p r o v i d e s b y f a r t h e b e s t f i t o f t h e

t h e o r i e s t e s t e d , e s p e c i a l l y c o n s i d e r i n g t h a t t h e k i n e m a t i c boundary c o n d - i "

t i o n i s actually satisfied exactly.

Case 1 1 . — F o r t h e r e l a t i v e l y deep-water c o n d i t i o n s o f Case I I (wate**

depth/wave l e n g t h = 0.55), t h e i n f o r m a t i o n i n Table 2, a l t h o u g h n o t

complete, i n d i c a t e s t h a t t h e Stokes' V t h e o r y i s S i g n i f i c a n t l y more

v a l i d than the A i r y (Stokes' I ) wave t h e o r y .

The Stream f u n c t i o n wave t h e o r y a g a i n p r o v i d e s a b e t t e r f i t t o t h e

boundary c o n d i t i o n s than t h e o t h e r t h e o r i e s t e s t e d .

BRIEF DISCUSSION OF STREAM FUNCTION WAVE THEORT

I t i s apparent from Table 2 t h a t f o r t h e two cases examined, t h e

Stream f u n c t i o n t h e o r y p r o v i d e s a c o n s i s t e n t l y b e t t e r f i t t o t h e b o u n d a . * " ^

c o n d i t i o n s than t h e o t h e r t h e o r i e s . The advantages o f t h e Stream f u n c t - ^ ^

 STREAM FUNCTION 281

theory include: ( l ) an exact f i t i s p r o v i d e d t o t h e k i n e m a t i c f r e e s u r f a c e

boundary c o n d i t i o n , and (2) >ri.thin reasonable l i m i t a t i o n s , t h e t h e o r y can

be extended t o as h i g h an o r d e r as necessary t o o b t a i n t h e accuracy r e -

q u i r e d f o r t h e p a r t i c u l a r wave c o n d i t i o n s .

I n the n e x t s e c t i o n , graphs r e p r e s e n t i n g dimensionless c r e s t e l e v a t i o n s

and wave f o r c e s , and moments on a v e r t i c a l p i l i n g , vri.11 be presented based

on t h e Stream f u n c t i o n t h e o r y .

CREST ELEVATIONS, WAVE EORCES, AND MOMENTS BÏ

STREAM FUNCTTÜD WAVE THEORY

Dimensionless Crest E l e v a t i o n s . — T h e dimensionless c r e s t e l e v a t i o n s

were c a l c u l a t e d from t h e Stream f u n c t i o n t h e o r y and a r e presented i n

F i g u r e 3 as f u n c t i o n s o f h/T^ and H/T^, where h, H, and T a r e t h e water

depth, wave h e i g h t , and wave p e r i o d , r e s p e c t i v e l y .

Dimensionless T o t a l Maximum F o r c e s . — T h e t o t a l f o r c e on a s i n g l e

v e r t i c a l p i l i n g e x t e n d i n g f r o m t h e ocean bottom t h r o u g h t h e f r e e s u r f a c e

can be w r i t t e n as

A + 7(9) . . + 1(9)
/^rrD 1^
F(e) = 4° CQ u ( e ) | u ( e ) | ds Cj^ u ( e ) dS ....(11)

/Q ^0

where C^ and Oy^ a r e t h e c o e f f i c i e n t s o f drag and i n e r t i a , u and ü a r e

the h o r i z o n t a l components o f v e l o c i l y and t o t a l a c c e l e r a t i o n , / ' i s tJie

mass d e n s i t y o f water and t h e o t h e r v a r i a b l e s are as shown i n F i g u r e 1 .

I f CQ and Cj^ a r e considered t o be c o n s t a n t s , then Eq. ( l l ) can be w r i t t e n

i n dimensionless form as
 STREAM FUNCTION 283

.1 + 7 ( e ) A
u(9) |u(9)l / h y /S\
"l/gH" 1/gH

^1 + >?(e)A
TT ' ^ I D
gH Uj'* h

i n which i i s t h e s p e c i f i c w e i g h t o f water. The phase angle, 6, can h e

v a r i e d t o determine the maximum dimensionless f o r c e 4)^^. I t i s apparent

•fchat depends o n l y on t h r e e parameters, i . e . ,

^'m = K ( h / T ^ H/T2, ¥)

where Cj.j p (13)

The Stream f u n c t i o n wave t h e o r y was used t o c a l c u l a t e t h e d i m e n s i ""l®^^

t o t a l maximum f o r c e s , (|)^, f o r a number o f sets o f h/T^ and H/T^ and f

f o u r values o f W; t h e r e s u l t s o f these c a l c u l a t i o n s have been develop®'*

i s o l i n e s o f (j)^, and a r e presented i n F i g u r e s U, 5, 6, and 7. I n the c a l c u -

l a t i o n s , a s u f f i c i e n t l y h i g h order Stream f u n c t i o n t h e o r y was used s o '^^'^

i n c r e a s i n g t h e wave t h e o r y order b y one d i d n o t change t h e maximum •^e'^^^'^'^'S

and a c c e l e r a t i o n v r i t h i n t h e vrave b y more than one p e r c e n t . The requi^^®*^

o r d e r , m, t o meet t h i s c r i t e r i o n i s shown as a f u n c t i o n o f h/T^ a n d H / T

i n F i g u r e 8. F i g u r e 8 I l l u s t r a t e s one o f t h e advantages o f t h e Stresutn.

f u n c t i o n wave t h e o r y . Because t h e t h e o r y can be developed t o any Tea-^°'^^^^

o r d e r , i t i s p o s s i b l e t o employ a t h e o r y o f an o r d e r c o n s i s t e n t w i t h

accuracy requirements. For example, f o r near-breaking, shallow-watex- "waves

284 COASTAL ENGINEERING
STREAM FUNCTION 285
286 COASTAL ENGINEERING
288 COASTAL ENGINEERING

00

O)
 STREAM FUNCTION 289

i t i s necessary t o use a t e n t h order t h e o r y t o o b t a i n t h e v e l o c i t y

and a c c e l e r a t i o n accuracy requirements s t a t e d above.

Dimensionless T o t a l Maximum Moments.—A development s i m i l a r t o t h a t

l e a d i n g t o Eq. (12) f o r the dimensionless t o t a l moment <^ would y i e l d

^1 + '?(e)/h

M ^ 1
rc^H^Dh 2

1 + 1(e)A

ih\ls\ls\ ,,,,

The c a l c u l a t e d dimensionless maximum moments, f o r given sets o f

the parameters, h/T^, H/T^, 3l 2., were developed i n t o i s o l i n e p l o t s and

CQ H

are presented i n F i g u r e s 9, 10, 11, and 12. Spot checks o f F i g u r e s U-7

and 9-12 i n d i c a t e t h a t t h e i s o l i n e s a r e accurate t o w i t h i n 5-10^.

The dimensionless t o t a l maximum f o r c e and moment asymptotes as

determined from s m a l l amplitude ( A i r y ) deep-water wave t h e o r y a r e i n d i c a t e d

i n t h e lower r i g h t c o m e r o f F i g u r e s l i - 7 , 9-12. I n a l l f i g u r e s these

asymptotes a r e c o n s i s t e n t w i t h t h e p l o t t e d i s o l i n e s .

Example.—To i l l u s t r a t e t h e use o f F i g u r e s 3-7, 9-12 suppose t h a t

i t i s r e q u i r e d t o c a l c u l a t e t h e c r e s t e l e v a t i o n , >y^, t h e maximum t o t a l f o r c e ,

Fj^j and moment,M„i, f o r t h e f o l l o w i n g wave and p i l i n g conditions:

Wave H e i g h t , H = 65 f t .

Water Depth, h = 120 f t .

Wave P e r i o d , T = 13 sec.

P i l i n g Diameter, D = 6 f t .
290 COASTAL ENGINEERING
STREAM FUNCTION 291
STREAM FUNCTION 293
294 COASTAL ENGINEERING

vjill

For purposes o f t h i s example, drag and i n t e r t i a c o e f f i c i e n t s

t a k e n as t h e average v a l u e s from a summary cranpiled b y W i l s o n

The summary i n c l u d e d t h e r e s u l t s from a anuniber o f l a b o r a t o r y ^

wave f o r c e analyses; t h e averages o f t h e d r a g and i n e r t i a o o e f f i " ' ' ' ^ "

included i n t h e summary a r e

= 1.05

c^, = i.Uo
interpreted

Use o f these average c o e f f i c i e n t s i n t h i s example should n o t b e

as endorsement o f t h e i r a p p l i c a b i l i t y f o r design purposes. An ^

o f t h e c o m p l e x i t y o f t h e problem o f s e l e c t i n g design drag and

c o e f f i c i e n t s i s p r o v i d e d b y t h e f o l l o w i n g ranges o f drag and i r ^ e

c o e f f i c i e n t s included i n t h e summary b y Wilson and Reid,

O.UO < CD < 1.60

0.93 < C M < 2.30

^j-ying
R e t u r n i n g t o t h e example, t h e dimensionless parameters spe*'-^

the problem a r e :

h/T^ = 0.71

H/T^ = 0.385

W = 0.123
e necessary
Note t h a t graphs are n o t a v a i l a b l e f o r W = 0.123; i t i s t h e r e f ^
f i g u r e s 10
t o i n t e r p o l a t e between F i g u r e s 5 and 6 ( f o r f o r c e s ) and b e t w e ^ " ^

"'•'^Wilson, B. W., and Reid, R. 0 . , D i s c u s s i o n o f "Wave F c ^ * ^ * ^

-r^lvision?

C o e f f i c i e n t s f o r Offshore P i p e l i n e s " , J . Waterways and H a r b o r f ~

Proc. ASCE, p. 61-65, Feb. I963.

 STREAM FUNCTION

and 11 ( f o r moments). From t h e dimensionless graphs, t h e f o l l o w i n g i s

obtained

r]^/R = 0.69 ( f r o m F i g u r e 3)

0.22, W = 0.1 ( f r o m F i g u r e 5)
m 0.26, W = 0.5 ( f r o m F i g u r e 6)

'0.21, W = 0.1 ( f r o m F i g u r e 10)

p.25, W = 0.5 ( f r o m F i g i i r e 11)

Using values o f = 0.22 and = 0.21, t h e r e q u i r e d q u a n t i t i e s a r e

= 0.69(65.0) = hh.9 ft.

= (0.22)(6U.O)(l.O5)(65.O)2(6.0) = 37ii,000 l b s .

ÏV = (0.21)(6U.0)(1.05)(65.0)2(6.0)(120) = U2,800,000 ft,'"'^^^'

I n applying t h i s Information t o the c a l c u l a t i o n o f stresses, i t ^

reasonable e n g i n e e r i n g approximation t o assume t h a t t h e maximur.i wave f ï"'^®

and moment occur a t t h e same phase angle.

I t should be reemphasized here t h a t ocean waves and wave f o r c e s aJ^*^

moments a r e n o t completely d e t e r m i n i s t i c . That i s , d i f f e r e n t waves vri-

i d e n t i c a l h e i g h t s and p e r i o d s i n the same water depth w i l l e x h i b i t a sï'"'^^*

o f wave p r o f i l e s , c r e s t e l e v a t i o n s , and maximum wave f o r c e s and momen.'t'^ '

This aspect o f t h e problem has n o t been t r e a t e d here, b u t must be r e c ' ^ ^ ' ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

and accounted f o r i n design.

296 COASTAL ENGINEERING

CONCISIONS AND RECuMMKNDATiUNS FOR FURTHER TORK

For t h e two sets o f wave c o n d i t i o n s examined i n t h i s paper, t h e Stream

f u n c t i o n wave t h e o r y p r o v i d e s a s i g n i f i c a n t l y b e t t e r f i t t o t h e s p e c i f i e d

boundary c o n d i t i o n s than t h e o t h e r t h e o r i e s t e s t e d . I t v/ould be i n t e r e s t i n g

to i n c r e a s e the number and range o f wave c o n d i t i o n s t e s t e d t o e s t a b l i s h

more t h o r o u g h l y t h e ranges o f v a l i d i t y o f t h e v a r i o u s wave t h e o r i e s . I n

a d d i t i o n , more wave t h e o r i e s should be t e s t e d .

I t i s n o t c o r r e c t t o assume t h a t the h i g h e r o r d e r S t o k i a n wave t h e o r i e s

are u n i f o r m l y more v a l i d than t h e lower order t h e o r i e s . A t p r e s e n t (1965),

t h e r e does n o t e x i s t an e s t a b l i s h e d r e l a t i v e depth l i m i t , below which the

s o - c a l l e d s h a l l o w water wave t h e o r i e s are u n i f o r m l y more a p p l i c a b l e than

the Stokian or other theories.

A vrave t h e o r y would be exact i f i t i d e n t i c a l l y s a t i s f i e d t h e Laplace

e q u a t i o n and t h e s p e c i f i e d boundary c o n d i t i o n s . I t i s n o t n e c e s s a r i l y t r u e ,

however, t h a t t h e same e r r o r i n e i t h e r boundary c o n d i t i o n f i t o r i n the

Laplace e q u a t i o n f o r two competing wave t h e o r i e s i m p l i e s t h e same e r r o r s

i n a l l wave c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . For example, f o r t h e shallow i-ra.ter c o n d i t i o n s

t e s t e d , t h e A i r y i/ave t h e o r y p r o v i d e d a b e t t e r f i t t o the boundary c o n d i t i o n s

than t h e h i g h e r order S t o k i a n t h e o r i e s . The S t o k i a n t h e o r i e s , however,

would p r o v i d e a b e t t e r p r e d i c t i o n o f the c r e s t displacement than would t h e

A i r y t h e o r y which does n o t account f o r the n o n l i n e a r l t i e s . The r e l a t i o n s h i p

between boundary c o n d i t i o n and Laplace equation e r r o r s and a s s o c i a t e d e r r o r s

i n wave c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s r e q u i r e s f u r t h e r work.

I t would be v e r y w o r t h w h i l e t o determine t h e most v a l i d irave t h e o r i e s

for a l l wave c o n d i t i o n s o f importance t o c o a s t a l e n g i n e e r i n g ( i . e . , r a n g i n g

 STREAM FUNCTION 297

from s h o r t irind-generated vraves t o l o n g waves such as Tsunamis). I n the

same manner as t h e dimensionless c r e s t displacements and f o r c e s were presented

i n t h i s paper i n g r a p h i c a l form, t h e wave parameters o f g r e a t e s t use could

then be t a b u l a t e d o r p r e s e n t e d i n g r a p h i c a l form u s i n g t h e most v a l i d theory

f o r each s e t o f wave c o n d i t i o n s .

ACKIWWLEDGMEKTS

The m a j o r i t y o f t h e work presented here was e a r n e d o u t b y t h e

author w h i l e employed b y Chevron Research Company; t h e i r a p p r o v a l t o

p u b l i s h this paper i s hereby g r a t e f u l l y acknowledged.

298 COASTAL ENGINEERING

Ai-PENDix. —NUTATION

The f o l l o w i n g symbols have been adopted f o r use i n t h i s paper»

C wave c e l e r i t y ;

Cp drag c o e f f i c i e n t ;

CJ,} inertia coefficient;

D p i l i n g diameter;

(E-[^)fj range o f e r r o r a s s o c i a t e d w i t h k i n e m a t i c boundary c o n d i t i o n j

(E^)^ range o f e r r o r a s s o c i a t e d w i t h dynamic boundary c o n d i t i o n ;

F t o t a l wave f o r c e on s i n g l e v e r t i c a l p i l i n g ;

g gravitational acceleration;

h s t i l l water depth;

H wave h e i g h t ;

—^ s u b s c r i p t " i " d e n o t i n g d i s c r e t e wave phase p o s i t i o n s ;

s u b s c r i p t "m" d e n o t i n g maximum o f f c r c e o r moment;

M t o t a l wave moment, about bottom o f s i n g l e v e r t i c a l p i l i n g ;

Q B e r n o u l l i "constant";
-y upwards;

S v e r t i c a l coordinate, o r i g i n a t sea bottom, o r i e n t e d posltiv^-^-'

T wave p e r i o d ;
u h o r i z o n t a l component o f water p a r t i c l e velocity;
•

u h o r i z o n t a l component o f water p a r t i c l e acceleration;

w v e r t i c a l component o f water p a r t i c l e velocity;

W parameter d e f i n e d as ^-^ ;
D . —action
X h o r i z o n t a l c o o r d i n a t e , o r i g i n a t wave c r e s t , p o s i t i v e i n d a - ^
o f wave p r o p a g a t i o n ;
 STREAM FUNCTION 299

v e r t i c a l c o o r d i n a t e , o r i g i n i n s t i l l water l i n e , p o s i t i v e l y upvrards;

dimensionless t o t a l moment on s i n g l e v e r t i c a l p i l i n g ;

l o c a l e r r o r a s s o c i a t e d v r i t h k i n e m a t i c boundary c o n d i t i o n ;

l o c a l e r r o r a s s o c i a t e d w i t h dynamic boundary c o n d i t i o n ;

s p e c i f i c w e i g h t o f water;

wave displacement above s t i l l water l i n e ;

wave c r e s t displacement above s t i l l water l i n e ;

wave phase angle, o r i g i n a t wave c r e s t , p o s i t i v e i n d i r e c t i o n o f

wave p r o p a g a t i o n ;

n u m e r i c a l c o n s t a n t , 3.lUl59...;

mass d e n s i t y o f water;

dimensionless t o t a l f o r c e on s i n g l e v e r t i c a l p i l i n g ;

velocity potential;

stream f u n c t i o n .