Suon Kho (Pork Ribs in Savory Caramel Sauce)

By Andrea Nguyen

Y I E L D 4 servings

TIME 2 hours, plus at least 2 hours’ marinating

A richness permeates these ribs, which are first marinated, then grilled until charred and finally simmered in a
bittersweet caramel sauce. They become so dark and savory that some people mistake them for beef. For Tet
festivities in northern Vietnam, pigs are often slaughtered to celebrate the Lunar New Year, and this preparation is
among the best ways to use the ribs. It reheats and freezes well, a perfect make-ahead dish for the holiday since it’s a
time when everyone is supposed to relax rather than work hard in the kitchen. Pair the ribs with rice and stir-fried
greens for a great meal.

INGREDIENTS PREPARATION

3 pounds pork spareribs, cut across Step 1

their bones into 2-inch-wide strips
(see Note)
½ large yellow onion, minced
1 teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
6 tablespoons fish sauce
7 tablespoons granulated sugar
Cut each rib strip between the bones or cartilage into individual ribs.
In a large bowl, combine the onion, pepper, 3 tablespoons fish sauce
and 1 tablespoon sugar. Mix well. Add the ribs and use your fingers or
a large spoon to mix well, coating all the ribs evenly. Cover with plastic
wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight. (Set out at
room temperature for 45 minutes before proceeding.)
Step 2

⅛ teaspoon unseasoned rice vinegar
or distilled white vinegar
Chopped scallion greens, for
serving
When ready to cook, heat an outdoor grill or broiler with a rack set 4
inches away from the heat source to high. When the grill is ready, you
should be able to hold your hand over the grate for only 2 to 3
seconds.

Step 3
Meanwhile, make the caramel sauce: In a large pot, stir together the
vinegar, remaining 6 tablespoons sugar and 1 tablespoon water over
medium heat until the sugar nearly dissolves, 60 to 90 seconds. Cook
without stirring until champagne yellow, about 3 minutes, then
continue cooking for another 1 to 2 minutes, frequently picking up the
pan and swirling it to control the caramelization. When the mixture is
a dark tea color (expect faint smoking), turn off the heat and keep the
pan on the burner. Let the caramelization continue until the mixture
is burgundy in color, 1 to 2 minutes. Slide the pan to a cool burner and
add 3 tablespoons water, stirring to dissolve the sugar. (If needed,
rewarm over medium heat to loosen.)

Step 4
Remove the ribs from the marinade, reserving the onion, and sear the
ribs on the grill, turning as needed, so they pick up some charred
edges and grill marks on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes total. (Or broil the
ribs on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet until tinged brown and a bit
charred, 6 to 8 minutes per side.)

Step 5
Add the ribs with any cooking juices to the pot with the caramel sauce.
Add the reserved onion, the remaining 3 tablespoons fish sauce and
enough water to almost cover the ribs, about 4 cups. Bring to a boil
over medium-high heat. Don’t skim the scum that rises to the surface
or you will remove some of the seasoning.

Step 6
Lower the heat to maintain a simmer, cover and cook for 45 minutes.
Uncover, stir the ribs and adjust the heat so that the liquid simmers
vigorously. Cook until the ribs feel tender when pierced with the tip of
a sharp knife, about 20 minutes. Lower the heat if you need to cook
longer. The sauce will have reduced somewhat, but there will still be a
generous amount.

Step 7
Remove from the heat and let stand for a few minutes so that the fat
collects on the surface, then use a ladle or spoon to skim it off. (Or, to
make the task much easier, let cool, cover and refrigerate overnight.
Discard the congealed chilled fat.) Return to a simmer and taste the
sauce. Add extra fish sauce to create a deeper savory flavor, or water to
lighten the flavor. Transfer to a shallow bowl and sprinkle the scallion
greens on top. Serve immediately.

Tip
Some markets carry ribs already cut through their bones into shorter
pieces. If your market does not, ask the butcher to saw the rack
through their bones into strips 2 inches wide.

PRIVATE NOTES

Leave a Private Note on this recipe and see it here.