Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Airfix Model World 2010-12
Airfix Model World 2010-12
ISSUE 01
WIN
NEW
AIR
F
ADVANCED KITSIX
CLO
NG
!
SI
BUILD DA
TE:
DEC 6, 2010
FANTASTIC
FITTER
With exclusive
reference
pictures!
WORLD EXCLUSIVE!
Editorial
Editor: Glenn Sands
Assistant Editor: Chris Clifford
Group Editor in Chief: Paul Hamblin
Regular Contributors
Ian Hartup, Neil Robinson, Lester Plaskitt,
Nick Tebbs and Peter Johnson
Design
Art Editor: Tom Bagley
Group Art Editor: Steve Donovan
Production
Sub Editor: James Forsyth
Production Manager: Janet Watkins
Advertising
Commercial Director: Ann Saundry
Group Manager: Brodie Baxter
Advertising Manager: James Beanland
Production Manager: Debi McGowan
Production Assistant: Lauren Clarke
Marketing
Marketing Manager: Martin Steele
Marketing Executive: Shaun Binnington
Marketing Assistant: Jessica Jagger
Subscriptions Manager: Roz Condé
Mail Order: Joan Harwin,
Liz Ward,
Ann Petrie
W
Key Publishing Ltd,
PO Box 100, Stamford, elcome! If you’re reading this you are probably a fellow modeller. Maybe you're
Lincolnshire, PE9 1XQ, UK.
always planning that next build, or perhaps just have a casual interest in the hobby.
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2 Poultry Avenue, London, EC1A 9PP. Whichever of these categories you fall into, Airfix Model World (AMW) is going to
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Printed by: Warners (Midland) plc, Bourne. expand your enjoyment of an already endlessly rewarding and fascinating pastime.
Printed in England (ISSN 1471-0587) I think the vast majority of us started off building models as kids. Inevitably, school, exams, then that
‘thing’ called a job got in the way and took many of us away from the modelling desk – right in the
Subscriptions middle of that important build or painting stage. But then somehow, sooner or later, you find the time
Please refer to main advertisement
within the magazine. All applications stating – and then maybe you're helping your kids with their first kit...
name, address, date to commence and
remittance to : Despite life’s demands, I retained a passionate interest in model making throughout the years and as
Subscriptions Department, Airfix Model World,
Key Publishing Ltd, P0 Box 300, the skills developed, so did the model ‘stash’ – something many of us have guiltily stored away in the
Stamford, Lincolnshire, PE9 1NA, UK.
Telephone/24-hour answer machine: attic or in a spare room, I suspect.
+44 (0) 1780 480404
Fax: +44 (0) 1780 757812. Along with the growing pile of models waiting to be built, there is also the need for high quality
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reference material in order to get that aircraft, tank or racing car to look just that little bit more
Readers in the USA can place subscriptions by
visiting www.airfixmodelworld.com or by calling realistic – and here is where AMW stands out.
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or by writing to Airfix Model World, 3330 Pacific We have sourced some of the best modellers in the country and found some exciting new talent from
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Postmaster: Send address corrections to Airfix overseas, all of whom bring with them tricks of the trade, which they are only too happy to pass on.
Model World, Key Publishing Ltd, PBIMS, 500
Route 46E, Clifton, NJ 07015-1800. These will be covered in our Skills School features over the following months.
There's much more for you here too: we’ll be digging through Key Publishing’s unique photographic
The Editor is happy to receive contributions
to Airfix Model World. Please note that all archive to bring you exclusive, never-before-seen images of aircraft in combat, combined with mission
material sent to the Editor is forwarded at the
contributor’s own risk. While every care is taken reports and history to back up our demonstrations of how to get the best out of your build .
with material, the publishers cannot be held
responsible for any loss or damage incured. All Members of the AMW team will delve into tank battles past and present or famous duels on the racing
material rates available on request. Submitted
material (especially illustrations) should have the circuit, while others will be sent to the far reaches of the modelling galaxy. Along the way we’ll show
contributors name and address clearly marked
and a stamped addressed envelope should be you how to improve your modelling skills and achievements and tell you all you need to know about
enclosed. All items submitted for publication are
subject to our terms and conditions. These are the latest kits and products arriving on the shelves.
regularly updated without prior notice and are
freely available from www.keypublishing.com Inspired? Ready to get started? Clear a space, open that kit box and let’s get cracking...
PO Box 100, Stamford, Lincs, PE9 1XQ, UK.
UK Tel: 01780 755131 Fax: 01780 757261 Glenn Sands
Overseas Tel: +44 1780 755131
Fax: +44 1780 757261 Editor
E-Mail: airfixmodelworld@keypublishing.com
06 News and
WNIEN
Show Scene
The latest happenings in the world
of modelling and a comprehensive W
X
FI
AIRTS!
up-to-date calendar of related events.
KI age 28.
26 Showcase See p
COVER STORY
60 Skills School –
Brush Painting
Robin Carpenter begins a master
class series in which he shares his
twenty-plus years of experience:
techniques, tips – and inspiration!
82 On the Shelf
Eleven pages of reviews bring you
the latest kits, books and modelling
products that will be high on every
modeller’s wish list.
98 Cutting
Mat Chat
A final word from the ‘movers
and shakers’ within the modelling
industry.
30 BASIC BUILD
SPITFIRE Mk1a
60 SKILLS SCHOOL
BRUSH PAINTING
64 SPACE BUILD
APOLLO SATURN V
FEATURES
10 Military Build – WWI 'Female' Tank
Lester Plaskitt shares his skills as he turns Airfix’s recently released WWI 'Female'
tank into a muddy masterpiece.
COVER STORY
COVER STORY
COVER STORY
52 Exclusive Build – Sea Vixen FAW.Mk.2
Chris Clifford gets his hands on the most eagerly awaited kit of the year –
the Airfix Sea Vixen. Follow his stage-by-stage build backed-up with a wealth
of reference images and scale drawings.
COVER STORY
72 Advanced Build – Su-17/22 M3 Fitter
Chris Clifford goes Peruvian to build Eduard’s limited-edition 1/48 Su-17/22 M3
ADVANCED BUILD
Su-17/22 M3 FITTER 72 Fitter, which has included new resin, metal, masks and new decals with the
original OEZ mould.
The superbly made 1/72 Airfix Avro 504K made by Jan Maes
won first place at the recent IPMS Ipswich open competition.
HIGHLY ANTICIPATED
VALIANT DRAWS NEAR
THE WAIT is almost over for examination of the test-shot
modellers who have been eager suggests that the product will
to see the release of the market’s not disappoint, with high quality
missing V-bomber, the Vickers moulding including the one-piece
Valiant. Airfix has supplied AMW upper wing section that slots
magazine with a complete test- neatly into the top of the fuselage.
shot of the model and the product A comprehensive weapons bay
is likely to be in shops in January includes a variety of bombs
2011 if not sooner. covering a wide range from
Alternative parts are in the Operation Grapple through to
kit, making it possible achieve the Suez Crisis.
all variants of the Valiant Colour options remain part of
constructed during its RAF the mystery, yet to be revealed.
service, from nuclear bomber Perhaps Airfix is relishing the rising
through to tanker. Initial level of excitement in the market.
TOKYO TEASERS
The Tokyo Hobby show on October
11-15, brought with it a wealth of
new kit releases covering all eras
and scales all due for release in
2011. Among the highlights were
A smart looking Mirage 2000C serving with EC 01.012 from Cambrai AB, lifts off from Volkel AB, Netherlands. (Both Joerg Stange)
box tops on display from Japanese
manufacturer Dragon, including
a 1/72 F6F-5N Hellcat, a 1/35
Eighth Army 25lb Field Gun
Mk2 with limber, a 1/35 US
Marines set from Peleliu 1944
and – without doubt one of the
stars of the show – a 1/32 Bf109E
OUT & ABOUT PREVIEW generation of military aircraft Revell and find out what releases
and military vehicles. There they have for the future.
IPMS SCALE MODELWORLD, 13-14 NOVEMBER 2010 will be 130 traders and kit Scale ModelWorld 2010 takes
manufacturers attending from place on November 13-14. It
E
ach year Scale from across the UK and Europe around the world, making it the is held annually at the Telford
ModelWorld attracts the largest plastic modelling biggest model shop you are ever International Centre, in Telford,
thousands of visitors show in the world. Hosted likely to visit. Shropshire. The show opens to
by IPMS (UK), there will be Visitors won’t just be looking at the public at 10.00am on both
more than 140 separate tables full of models (although days, closing at 6.00pm on
displays, comprising there will be plenty!) – there will Saturday and 4.00pm on Sunday.
nearly 5,000 also be opportunities to learn
Adult: £9.00 per day
TICKETS
Next is the application of the Sand Yellow base colour using an airbrush. Thin the
paint using tap water at a ratio of 50/50 water to paint, which will ensure a smooth
base coat. The layers of paint are built up in successive thin coats, at a relativity low air
pressure for better control of the brush. A good tip: never start spraying directly onto the
model, as this may cause problems if the airbrush splatters paint in the beginning. It is
best to start your spray on a piece of card held up against the model,
then move the airbrush from the card onto the model, which
will help solve any splattering. Apply each coat carefully to
allow some of the black primer to show through around the
detail, creating a pleasing shading effect.
In an overall smooth coat of satin black primer, the model awaits its first coat, an
airbrushed Sand base colour. We chose a generic World War One camouflage pattern
scheme, which was sometimes applied to tanks captured by the Germans for use against
their former owners.This type of pattern better illustrates the weathering techniques we’re
looking at here – the common plain Green or Grey schemes for British tanks would not be
as instructive. The base coat is a Sand colour because it is always best to paint the lightest
camouflage shade first, to reduce the problem of a darker base colour showing through lighter
tones. We used paints from the Vallejo acrylic range – they are water-based, so will not react
with the oil and enamel paints used later in the weathering. Apply with brush or airbrush and
thin using tap water. For the base coat use Vallejo Sand 009, lightened slightly with beige 008.
MODEL SPEC
Stock Code: A02337
Scale: 1/76
Price: £5.99
In this stage we are further enhancing the shading effect of the base coat by adding
highlights to the Sand colour. This is done by adding a further small amount of beige to the mix
in the airbrush, which in turn creates a lighter tone of the base Sand. This new ‘highlight’ colour
is then carefully sprayed (for best results try to keep the airbrush nozzle close to the model)
into the centre of each panel on the hull sides and roof, until the centre
of the panels are slightly lighter than the rest of the model.
The Green element of the pattern is now complete. To aid camouflage painting, draw the pattern lightly onto the model as a guide,
using a fine pencil. As with the Sand base coat, build up the Green segments carefully built up using layers of thin paint. While it is
tempting to cover the pattern with one coat, unfortunately a too-thick coat of paint can cover up a lot of the detail on such a small model.
When the Green is fully dry, add the red element of the pattern using the same method of application as with the Green. The best Vallejo
paint for this is Red Leather 136.
The completed marker pen application. The basic camouflage pattern is finished and
the model is ready for weathering.
At this point the tones look very vivid and light, so it’s time to bring these more into
scale, and this is achieved by using a ‘filter’ coat. This is an overall wash of a dark-toned
colour that reduces the intensity of colour and harmonises the camouflage. The filter
must not be thinned as much as for a detail ‘pin’ wash – but rather only enough not to
completely block out the base colours. Do not over-thin or you risk capillary action drawing
the paint around detail and into panel lines. It is best to practise this method on some
old scrap models before committing it to your latest project. For this technique we change
to enamel, as it will not react with water-based acrylic base coats, and because it has a
longer drying time, any build-up of excess paint can be either removed or thinned. out
The next step is to depict dried and wet dust and mud deposits. Before you start it is
very important to be sure all the previous paintwork has fully dried, and in the case of
enamel, leave it a full 48 hours before any more work is carried out. To portray deposits of
After the washes and filter, the camouflage colours, although more harmonised, dried mud and dust, make up a 50/50 mix from Humbrol Matt 72 and Matt 93, then add a
are slightly flat and dull. To bring them back to life and add more tone, very lightly and small amount of Matt White to slightly lighten the mixture. Then thin the paint with white
carefully dry brush each individual patch of camouflage with the base colour on which it spirit, adding the same consistency as the previously applied filter coat. Carefully apply
was initially painted. This step must be carried out with extreme care, so there is only a this mix to the model, leaving small spots along the top edge of the track run and around
very subtle change in tone – less is more. selected areas of detail (working on one side of the model at a time).
The consistency and colour of the pigment Reproduce areas of exposed and worn metal using a
mix (though the colour will lighten to an soft lead pencil – 4B is preferable as the lead is very soft,
extent, as the pigments and resin dry out), making it easy to apply. Add an exposed metal effect to the
before it is applied to the model. rims of the rear steering wheels.
To replicate the large amounts of wet mud deposits common during Now lay on the paste in small quantities, taking care to place the
Western Front trench warfare, use weathering pigment powders from MIG pigments in areas where mud would naturally accumulate, such as around
Productions. These can be mixed into a paste-like substance which, when the track runs.
added to the model, give a realistic interpenetration of the colour (and
more importantly the texture) of mud. We used European Dust and Russian Now the pigment paste has been left to fully dry for two to three hours,
Earth mixed together in a small container. Next, add a small amount of it’s apparent that the build up of ‘mud’ has been deliberately kept to scale,
household filler to give the pigments more body and texture. and only in areas where mud would collect in real life.
The complete dust and dried mud effects. Every area has Now add the mid-tone mud to the model; carefully adding small spots of the
been treated with this technique, even down to the track links. mix in the areas where the wet and dry mud meet. Then, using a second brush
moistened in white spirit, carefully blend the mid-tone mix into both the mud and
To add more tonal interest to the tracks, thin a light wash of dust colours. This process is best carried out on each individual panel at a time,
Vallejo 144 with tap water and carefully touch onto the links so as we are not trying to cover up the tones of the wet mud and dust – we only want to
the paint gathers around the raised detail. soften the areas of high contrast.
Lt. Connelly and Lt. Blonski duelled with death in F-4 'Showtime 106', similar to 'Showtime 100', above, of VF-96 'Fighting Falcons' (1972).
VF-96 made a record eight combat cruises to Vietnam, which would see a number of the aircrew here able to claim a MiG kill.
The F-4 was designed to carry four AIM-7 Sparrow missiles beneath the fuselage and four AIM-9 Sidewinders in pairs on underwing
launchers (illustrated). However the US Navy often modified the missile configuration depending on the mission.
This time, it would have been all watched the pilot bail out, helicopter. The naval total for the award read: “In the face of
but impossible to miss. At exactly deploying a drogue parachute day was nine MiGs downed, two the overwhelming enemy
the moment the MiG-17 erupted initially, and then a main Phantoms lost with one of the two odds, [Blonski] aided his pilot
in red-orange flames, its pilot was parachute with an oddly shaped crews rescued. In separate battles, in engaging the numerically
hurled up and out like a cork from square canopy. USAF Phantom crews claimed superior aircraft and in pressing
a champagne bottle. Connelly With two confirmed aerial three kills and lost two aircraft. home several hard-fought attacks,
later said he didn’t know victories, Connelly The Navy commander of the which resulted in the destruction
whether the North and Blonski mission that day, Cdr. Gus Eggert of two enemy planes and the
Vietnamese tore into yet (Carrier Air Group Commander, dispersion of the remaining
airman ejected another MiG- Air Group Nine) – joined Connelly, aircraft out of range of the
or was simply "The pilot 17 until the Blonski, Cunningham and Driscoll strike force. Lieutenant Blonski’s
blown out of
his MiG by the
was hurled up fuel gauge
warned
in receiving the Navy Cross, the
second highest American award
professional skill, courage and
dedication reflected great credit
force of the
Sidewinder’s
and out like a them that
they were
for valour.
Part of the citation for Blonski’s
upon himself and the United
States Naval Service.” ❚
annular blast cork from at 'bingo'
fragmentation
warhead
a bottle" fuel—time
to return to
detonating. It is Constellation’s
unclear whether pitching angled
anyone in VF-96 saw a deck. Connelly
parachute. and Blonski were on
afterburner, crossing the coast and
Second Fresco heading for the aircraft carrier,
Connelly then engaged yet shortly before Cunningham and
another MiG-17 in what he later Driscoll completed their fight for
termed a carbon copy of the the day and were being plucked
previous engagement. He latched from the Gulf of Tonkin.
onto the MiG’s six o’clock position Despite the loss of a VF-92 sister
and watched his adversary repeat ship, members of VF-96 'Fighting
his previous foe’s manoeuvre — Falcons' couldn't resist a mood of
rolling into wings-level position. celebration when the squadron’s
For the third time, Connelly fired pilots and RIOs brought their
a Sidewinder. It appeared at first Phantoms down to the carrier
to fly wide, but it detonated just deck in time to watch Cunningham Still in wet flying suit, adrenalin still flowing, Lt. Cunningham
close enough to blow the MiG’s and Driscoll, very wet, return to recalls one of the dogfights from his triple MiG mission.
tail off. Connelly and Blonski Constellation via CH-46 Sea Knight
H
stood after recovering, minus
asegawa’s 1/48 Phantom trickery, and spare decals, weapons and fuel tank, but with a
family first appeared one can easily portray Matt scorched speed brake. During the
more than two decades Connelly’s Showtime 106 – battle, the flap was down when
ago, and since then the mount in which he and one of the Sidewinders was fired – Most Phantom builds will use Mk.7
almost every sub-type has been radar interception officer Tom hence the ensuing damage. seats, but before this, the Mk.5 was used.
kitted, with various re-release Blonski destroyed two MiGs. On We’ve used Hasegawa’s This older escape system was gradually
decal options. They have become landing, Connelly discovered ‘Showtime 100’ boxing of the phased out from 1968 to the early 1970s.
the standard for F-4s in this scale, that squadron-mate ‘Duke’ F-4J (still available from various The Cobra Company makes these resin
and have few faults. Cunningham had downed three retailers) because it has the Mk.5s, employed here to be a little
different. They need careful cleaning up,
This F-4J boxing has a large MiGs to make ace, and in mock correct VF-96 unit markings,
then priming. Matt Black is a good base
decal sheet carrying VF-96 disgust at being bettered by one although the codes are for coat as it gives depth and creates shadows.
markings for Lt. Randall more kill on the day, uttered one Cunningham’s aircraft. With help Once the primer is dry, mist on a light coat
Cunningham’s famous ‘Showtime of his classic comments: “Always from the spares box, these can be of Tamiya NATO Black. This ‘off-Black’ shade
100’ airframe, but with a little the bridesmaid, never the bride!” adapted to portray Connelly’s jet. will highlight fine detail.
Our aim with this build is to add just a bit more than what’s on offer in the kit, rather than
a whole super-detailing campaign. The new components begin with this storage box, which
sits under the RIO’s radar control stick, and the pedals on the floor. Both are made from
plastic card. When scratch-building, use a brand new scalpel blade for accurate cutting.
On its own, Hasegawa’s cockpit can be painted The pilot has a red-lens map reading light on the
and dry-brushed with convincing results – but it’s starboard cockpit wall. This was made by cutting a
satisfying to add more detail. section of thin Evergreen plastic rod for the torch itself.
Make the flexible spiralled cable by wrapping some soft
Our spares box offered up an Eduard 1/48 detail lead wire around a fine drill bit – 0.5mm is good – then
set for the F-4B/n, but some of the parts are common simply slide it off. Attach them to the cockpit wall. For this
to the F-4J, and were added along the way. kind of detailing, a good reference book is invaluable.
This is the rear instrument panel (left), which has received an etched metal part in its
lower left-hand area. The upper new switches and rivets can be created with a punch and
die set. At this stage, the detail we are adding looks a little rough and stark in contrast with the
kit plastic, but it will all harmonise during the painting. The pilot’s instruments (right) received
two etched items from the Eduard set, at the top and bottom of the panel.
More detail can be added in front and rear cockpits. You can see new items from
plastic card and wire, but the large box dominating the rear cockpit wall is a kit part.
It’s the digital AWG-10B target data computer.
Hasegawa uses some generic parts in its Phantom kits, which means some areas must be
removed. These strip-shaped formation lights (on tail, mid- and forward-fuselage areas), and
triangular strengtheners on the horizontal tails, must be removed. This can be done by scalpel,
file or grinding wheel. Finish the job by sanding with fine sandpaper, with water.
Other new parts from plastic card include a throttle handle. Once the cockpit has The Phantom is renowned for its
received a coat of Grey paint, mask off the side panels prior to painting them Matt Black. trademark, metallic rear-end. As metal
Dry-brushing can then be carried out on the instruments and switches. The RIO’s storage paint always sits better over Black, mask
box has also been painted Matt Black. If any paint strays from the panels, simply remove it the relevant areas and paint them a Matt
with a sharpened cocktail stick before it dries. Also visible is the circuit breaker panel on the Black of your choosing. We used acrylic to
lower starboard sidewall in the rear cockpit, and this was a metal item from the Eduard set. speed up the drying time before applying
The side panel in the rear ‘office’ is a kit part, which is made of quilted material on the real a Metallic finish... in this case, Humbrol’s
aircraft. To portray this, paint the panel Humbrol 28 Matt Light Grey, then apply a wash of Metalcote Polished Steel which was
highly thinned Matt Dark Grey to imitate dirt. At this stage the fuselage halves can be mated. misted on in several thin coats.
Hasegawa offers the correct US Navy-style inboard hard points, and these were improved
with some etched-metal rail facings on the launchers. Note the squares of filler – the missile
launcher attachments are slightly thinner than the pylon. Fill and sand the recesses, prime the
pylons and launchers with Matt White, then top coat with Gloss White.
The nose gear bay with its Raw Umber wash, which was also applied to the main gear bays.
To imitate the scorched speed brake on Connelly’s jet, it was first painted in Xtracolour Nose undercarriage leg
Duralumin, and an irregular pattern was applied with Maskol masking fluid and left to dry. Matt
Nose undercarriage leg
viewed from starboard. The viewed from port (left). Brake
White, then Gloss White were airbrushed over the top, and the Maskol peeled away to reveal system piping and electrical
the exposed metal area. To finish off, a mix of Black oil paint and thinner (not as thin as a
red cylinder is an anti-
collapse collar. cabling is evident.
wash), was randomly applied around the relevant areas to portray scorching.
Our portrayal of Matt Connelly's scorched flap which occurred during his famous dogfight.
The remaining jobs include adding a final varnish coat, then painting and adding all those
little accoutrements that adorn the typical fighter jet, including ejection seats, lights, pitot tubes,
HUD glazing and canopies. The coloured lenses in the nose gear door were created by placing
a drop of thinned white glue into each hole, letting it dry, followed by painting the correct
Our Phantom now has its full array of shades with Tamiya clear colours. White glue also made the main light in the door... and that
decals and a sealing coat of varnish, in pretty much signals the close of the build.
preparation for a panel line wash. Mix it Countless Phantom kits have been made the world over, due to its rightful place as one of the
the same as for the undercarriage and legendary combat aircraft, but US Navy schemes of the Vietnam War are arguably the most
apply to all panel lines, wiping off the colourful and impressive. Focussing on a particular battle also gives an extra dimension to the
excess after the appropriate drying time. project, and one can only imagine what it must have been like in those tense, hot, cockpits
during blistering dogfights with hard-turning MiGs.
ISBN: 978-90806-747-90
• Detail & Scale Vol.12 F-4 Phantom II Part 3 USN & USMC Versions
ISBN: 0-85368-588-6
• Combat Aircraft 30 – US Navy F-4 Phantom II MiG Killers 1972-73
(Osprey)
ISBN: 1-84176-264-4
• USN F-4 Phantom II vs VPAF MiG-17/19 (Osprey)
ISBN: 978-1-84603-475-6
• Wings of Fame Vol.1 – US Navy Phantoms in Vietnam (Aerospace
Publishing) 1-874023-74-3
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a classic
spitfire mk1a
The wings can be added to the fuselage. No filler is needed on the model at all, but
To make construction easier and quicker, pre-paint the interior parts while they are Tamiya tape can be used to keep the wings at the correct dihedral while the glue dries.
still on the sprues. Humbrol Interior Grey Green is the predominant colour, but Coal The tape can be used later for a seat harness for the pilot’s seat.
Black can be used for the instrument panel, the throttle levers, wheels and the inside of
the gun ports. Add a watercolour wash to accentuate the detail.
Cut along the joint line of the The upper parts include the moulded
elevators so that they can be flaps and ailerons, which are of the
repositioned with a droop. This takes early fabric style with restrained detail.
The interior of the assembled cockpit, ready for the fuselage halves to be joined. Later, minutes, but adds to the finished look Paint the interior of the wing black, and
add a seat harness – in this build, made out of the Tamiya tape that had held the wings in of the model, especially as the separate the centre section Humbrol 226 Interior
the correct position while the glue dried. This was the only additional item used. rudder part can also be deflected. Grey Green.
I
n this anniversary year of pilot’s seat, cockpit floor, control of a seat harness made out of the Moving on to the tailplanes,
the epic Battle of Britain, column, and bulkhead frames are Tamiya tape. extreme care is needed when you
Airfix has replaced its elderly all separate parts and are well remove the horizontal stabilisers
1/72 scale kit of the Spitfire detailed. A decal is provided for Fuselage (parts B32 & B34) from the sprues.
MkIa with a brand new mould. the instrument panel, which has a Although the instructions suggest The sprue gates are thick, and
This newcomer is a newly tooled simple gunsight moulded into it. that you should attach the even with the sharpest of cutters
and much more richly depicted All of the interior can be painted propeller while joining the fuselage it's easy to remove a section of
version of the iconic fighter, Humbrol 78 Cockpit Green, with halves, attach only the back-plate the leading edges. Make the cut
with recessed panel lines and Humbrol 62 Leather for for now, as this still enables well clear of the parts, then trim
an improved cockpit interior the back of the seat the propeller to turn back the section of sprue that is
featuring crisp detail. and headrest and when it is added still attached to the part, using
Unlike the original kit, the Humbrol 33 later on, but a sanding stick. You have been
inside of the fuselage halves Coal Black for "To help protects warned! These parts are handed
include moulded rib detail and the oxygen bring out the the blades and fit into the fuselage very well,
additions such as throttle and bottles, from being but to add more realism a razor
undercarriage controls. The gunsight detail within broken or saw can be used to reposition the
and various damaged elevators slightly downwards.
controls on the interior, during the The rudder is a separate part
the cockpit dry brush the sanding, and if you position this slightly off-
walls, as well painting and centre to match the ailerons, it
as the handgrip entire area" weathering
for the control stages. Both SPITFIRE Mk1a
MODEL SPEC
enhances the look of the model. cowling black, it gives this area nice restrained detail. All of the the wing are painted black here
The engine exhausts can be some depth. gun hatches and panels are well because they can be seen through
painted using Humbrol 70 Brick represented with recessed detail. the leading edge gun ports and the
Red, but can be left off until after Wings Before joining the wings together, under wing spent cartridge and
the painting stages, although if you The wings are provided as a paint the interior sections. As the link chutes. Leave outer sections of
paint the inside of one-piece lower section with a inside of the lower-wing centre the undercarriage bays unpainted
their location separate one-piece upper part section can be seen through the for now and paint them the same
in the on each wing and the ailerons, floor of the cockpit, paint this area colour as the lower wings later.
which are integrally moulded with Humbrol 78 Interior Green, as At this point, the interior of
into the upper wing parts, are well as the inside sections of the the radiator and oil cooler parts
of the earlier fabric type, with wheel wells. The outer sections of underneath the wings should be
painted black to give them depth,
then dry-brush over the black
painted radiator block with Silver
in order to bring out the detail.
Attach these two parts to the wing
and the main airframe is complete.
When joining the wings, put a
clamp or a clothes peg on them to
keep the parts together as the glue
dries – this helps to ensure that the
walls of the wheel wells touch the
inside of the upper wing.
When the glue has dried, the
completed wing section is ready
to attach to the fuselage and it
literally `clicks’ into place, with no
need for filler anywhere.
In fact there is no need for filler
anywhere on this model, but the
seams still need to be removed and
this is accomplished with sanding
sticks after the glue has dried.
Painting
The sole decal option provided
by Airfix for their new Spitfire kit
represents P9495, coded DW-K of
610 (County of Chester) Squadron,
Auxiliary Air Force, based at RAF
Biggin Hill, Kent, during July and
Accentuate panel lines using a early August 1940. This aircraft
watercolour wash of Paynes Grey appears in a well-known photo,
with a little black added to it. but it has often been misidentified
standard on the upper surfaces, and comprised Dark Earth and Dark Green. but rather fiddly. represent exhaust staining along
The undersides, however, were another story – one that is open to much Airfix has got the serial number the side of the fuselage and
interpretation. right and chosen P9495 over the cordite streaks across the wings.
The new colour of Sky (Beige Green) was supposed to replace the earlier often incorrectly quoted N3029. Oil stains and paint chips add
black and white halved undersides that had been used during the Battle However, in reference pictures satisfying realism – use carefully
of France (the left wing was black and the right wing was white). Although of this Spitire, it’s hard to tell applied enamels.
it was intended to be applied to the undersides of all newly built fighter whether this serial appears in full Now that the weathering is
aircraft on the production line as well as on existing aircraft at unit level, size on the rear fuselage, or has done, it’s time to add items such
there was not enough of this sky-coloured paint available. been re-applied in a much smaller as the propeller, radio mast, pitot-
So, instructions were sent out for units to mix their own paint. However, these style or even been over-painted tube and undercarriage. To keep
were quite vague and by referring to the new colour as ‘Duck Egg Blue’, much altogether. The upper wing the very serious modellers happy,
confusion ensued in the field and resulted in numerous different hand-mixed B-Type roundels are represented Airfix has provided the main
light blue/grey hues being applied instead, although Official Sky still made it as the large 56in (142cm) size on wheels with `weighted’ tyres, but
onto a lot of the fighters during the Battle of Britain too. Because of the low the decal sheet, although some care must be taken to make sure
stocks of the new colour, units and aircraft manufacturers that had no access aircraft in the same unit that had that the flat sections are actually
to Official Sky were also permitted to use other 'official' Air Ministry paints on the same large-sized fuselage level with the ground when fitted.
the undersides of their fighters instead during this period, such as Sky Blue,
roundels sported much smaller The undercarriage parts can be
upper wing roundels. Whichever pre-painted at the same time as
`Eau de Nil’ (a darker, richer shade of pale green which had been specifically
one is correct is not apparent on the main airframe is being done.
ordered to make up for short supply of the official sky colour) and Sky Grey,
the photo of the actual Spitfire. With these in place, the Spitfire is
which was commonly used on Fleet Air Arm aircraft of the period.
The decals go on with hardly any finished. Nice work! ❚
GRAND DESIGN
A selection of the components found in the box. These include a Removing vac-formed parts
side elevation of the cottage and some of the architectural details on may look difficult, but just use
injection-moulded sprues. a sharp bradawl or craft knife to
score around the edges of the part
This sprue holds the door, window and shutters. The door looks a little in question. Do this a few times, then
rough but it cleans up well. simply snap away the waste plastic. Easy!
One section complete after drying and removal of the masking tape.
Once the walls are in close proximity to each other, the size of
the cottage quickly becomes apparent. These two halves are now ready
for gluing together. Use masking tape to hold the inside and outside
sections of wall together, and then apply liquid glue to the join.
After the tape is removed, the corners of the cottage may require a little filler which
when dry, should be sanded smooth.
The sides of the building are constructed vac-formed sheet which will require cutting out, along with a selection
using the same technique. Masking tape allows of injection-moulded sprues for architectural details such as doors,
a temporary fit and can, to a degree, help pull windows, and gutters. Fence railings and lamp posts are also included
together the joins. Then apply liquid glue and again, although these and a few of other parts will not be used, but consigned
capillary action will allow it to flow where necessary. to the spares box for other projects.
After a couple of hours, remove the tape.
Although the injection-moulded parts look a little rough while on the
W
sprues, only a minimum of work is required to remove flash and mould
hen you first decide groundwork detail. seams; they actually clean up very well. Period advertising posters that
to venture into the One of these products is the could be found on many buildings in World War Two have also been
field of building French Village House, which can provided – a nice, evocative touch.
dioramas, it’s not be tailored to any number of The instructions specify the use of clear plastic sheet for lamp post and
unusual to be overwhelmed by dioramic scenes from World War window glass. However, none is included in the kit, but you can easily get
ideas that you don’t know how One through to post World War this material from good hobby shops, or even from household packaging.
to produce – or you may just be Two. In this case our country Some sprues in the box are generic and found in other MiniArt kits.
stuck for inspiration. Fortunately style cottage will be situated The vac-formed parts have
Ukrainian manufacturer MiniArt on the edge of woodland, and
very good texture and
offers a whole range of buildings accompanied by the necessary
definition, but are rather flimsy.
and accessories that make life groundwork for extra realism.
As construction progresses,
easier for the inexperienced. And This type of building creates
though, each elevation
while some of you may have built new possibilities for the setting
becomes more firm and it
these kits before, our aim here of military dioramas, especially
builds into a remarkably
is to offer something different when tanks or softskins and
sturdy structure.
and advice on finer finishing and figures are also involved.
If any sand has fallen away, or you need to add more to build up the texture, just
Next month, Nick completes the diorama, demonstrating the fitting and painting
repeat the process in the appropriate areas. This process can also been applied to the
of windows and doors, painting and weathering the stone, and shows how to add
haunching around the chimney stack’s base, to the ridge tile area and to soffit boards for
convincing groundwork.
a more realistic appearance.
Features include:
Mastering the Typhoon
What does it take to learn to fly and fight the
RAF’s cutting-edge Typhoon? RAF 2011 went to the
Typhoon training unit, 29 (R) Squadron, to find out.
Operations in Afghanistan
The role the RAF is playing in Afghanistan is explained
with articles featuring aircraft such as the Tornado GR4,
C-130J, Merlin and Chinook.
Battle of Britain Memorial Flight
RAF 2011 pays tribute to the servicemen who fought
in the air during World War Two with a look at the
Battle of Britain Memorial Flight.
Tornado F3
As a tribute to the Tornado F3 fighter we take a look back
over the aircraft’s career in the RAF and its role with the
last unit to fly the type.
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RACER
Ian Hartup builds the Aston Martin DBR9, in its superb
Gulf Livery from Le Mans 2008 — in rare 1/32 scale
F
or many years Airfix First to be released is the latest Construction is simple and well-
has been one of the few racing Aston Martin, the DBR9, thought out, starting with the
manufacturers to produce Sebring champ of 2005, in the chassis and wheels. An ingenious
car kits in the unusual iconic Gulf livery it was given for system of stub axles and brake
1/32nd scale. This tradition goes the 2008 Le Mans 24-hours Race. discs is used to impart a true
back to the 'swinging sixties' This new kit owes its existence to scale appearance to the wheel
when the company produced an the Scalextric car, but much has arches and the areas behind the
expansive range of cars including been changed to convert it to a wheel. This system consists
such stylish wonders of the scale model. The only real carry- of only three parts per
time as the Vauxhall Viva and over from the Scalextric product arch. A basic axle
Sunbeam Rapier. is the body moulding and glazing, block attaches
With the advent of its association both of which are of a very high first to the
with Hornby, Airfix has been able standard. The rest of the kit is a chassis floor “An ingenious
to access the Scalextric body
mouldings, to impress this market
new tooling of good quality – in
keeping with Airfix’s recent new
and then this
traps in place
system of stub
once again with new kits of releases in other categories of the a wheel axles and brake
modern racing cars in this scale. modelling world. arch liner.
discs imparts
true scale”
Attach all four stub axles and to assemble the roll cage as a ASTON MARTIN DBR9
MODEL SPEC
arches and then set aside the complete entity. To achieve this,
Stock Code: A03411
whole assembly for painting later. the two side parts 23c & 24c are
slotted into their locations in the Scale: 1/32
Racing Rims floor and then the upper element Price: £9.99
Clean up the brake discs and part 25c glued in place. Once this
mount them on cocktail sticks has dried, add the rear frame (31c)
for painting later. The wheels and and leave to dry overnight. After a
tyres are moulded in one with a coat of Grey primer, paint it Silver.
separate rear face and the fit of We used Alclad Aluminium.
these parts is not perfect. Fill and The dashboard of a modern
sand with your chosen medium, race car is a particularly sparse
sand down the prominent centre area and the kit captures that
mould line and again, mount on a perfectly. As a result, a suitable
cocktail stick for later. subassembly can be made with
The interior of the model parts 4a, 5a, 19b and 18b, all
features a very effective floor requiring painting in a Satin
part. This item is produced in Black finish.
such a way that it can be used Now attach the lower nose
and splitter part (12a) to the
main body moulding. This is a
digression from the kit
instructions, but
The assembly of the floor, axles and wheel arch liners is very effective and yet quite
simple. The fit of parts is very positive and forms a strong yet simple sub-assembly. Very
little clean up is required. The parts, once assembled, are painted with Humbrol Matt
Black 33 with the front and rear splitters picked out in Coal Black 85.
Adding Colour
At this point choose your
decal sequence carefully. With
the review model, we placed
the front decal first, and the
alignment of the intake surround
was regarded as paramount.
Unfortunately, this proved an
invitation to disaster.
The correct method is to align
this decal with the front of the
main bonnet vent. Then, once
placed thus, deal with the intake
surround. Failure to use this
method will result in the Aston
Martin badge not lining up with
the raised moulded on detail on
the bonnet front. Just do not
look too closely at the review
The kit instructions call for the front lower splitter element to be mounted to the floor. This will create an issue later in construction model, OK? Perhaps in future
with the bodywork join as shown here. Instead, attach this part directly to the rest of the body and deal with the seam before painting. releases Airfix should consider
printing the Aston Martin and
trial and error proved it a better range of other matched colours. trick to replicate this finish is
route. Assembly in this manner Once the main body is dry, to spray these parts with Gloss
allows the resulting join to be the lower valances need to be Black paint, and then the Gloss
treated more effectively. The painted Black to match the coat required by the Zero
join will require sanding and painting and decal instructions Base coat will increase the
filling – deal with this now, then provided by Airfix. Mask the lines finish. Once they have “A wash of
prime the parts with Grey primer.
We painted the body with Zero
using thin strips of masking tape
then block out the rest of the
dried, the colour coats
should be sealed with a
Burnt Umber
Paints colour-matched Gulf Blue. body with larger pieces until the couple of sprayed layers Oil gives it that
This is an airbrush only basecoat whole body is covered. These of Johnson’s Klear Polish
type paint, available from www. areas on the real car are finished before the decaling can used look”
hiroboy.com, along with a wide in a very high Gloss Black. A neat commence.
Gulf Logos as separate decals. The floor of the interior is Many recent car kits include pre-cut window masks to assist the modeller
MAKING YOUR OWN WINDOW MASKS
With the markings in place added to the chassis next and in accurately reproducing the Black window bonding seen on modern
seal them in place with a gloss the pre-painted seat, instrument
cars. Airfix has chosen not to do so in this kit, which provides you with
varnish; the review model panel and roll cage assembled
the challenge of coming up with your own way of depicting these areas.
recieved Klear again. to it. After a suitable period to
One method of achieving results – the one we chose for this build – is to
With the body now drying, turn allow this assembly to dry, add
produce your own masks.
your attention to the chassis and the wheels. The tyres should be
This is simple, but you need to have access to a photocopier with a
interior. The brake discs require painted with a suitable Matt off-
reduction/expansion facility. First, photocopy the painting instructions in
a coat of Chrome or Polished Black shade – Revell’s AquaColor
the kit. Then measure a constant dimension of the subject. In this case,
Aluminium and a wash of Burnt Anthracite was used for the
we used the length of the car excluding the floor. This must be measured
Umber Oil to give that used review model. Once this has
look. Once this has been done dried, the wheels require painting on both the plans and the model. A simple sum of Length of the model
and dried, they can be added to in a Steel shade to match the divided by Length of the plan, multiplied by 100, gives a percentage by
the chassis floor – take note of real car. The tyres should first be which you must either expand or reduce the plans. When you have this
the alignment drawings in the covered using masks cut from right, you should end up with a plan the same size as your model. Make
instructions. broad tape with an Olfa Circle nine or ten copies.
Now place a piece of masking tape, larger than needed, on a suitable
cutting surface. The window area is roughly cut from one of the
photocopied plans and taped over the piece of masking tape. Now, using
a nice new blade in a model knife, trace the outline of
the glazed area of the window leaving the Black
areas on the outside. Once the plan is
removed there should be a perfect
mask left on the cutting surface
which can be placed onto
the inside surface of
the clear parts.
Do not forget
to mask the
outside of
the windows
before the
The kit provides a roll cage for the interior which is best painted separately from the
rest of the interior. The floor design allows for this part to be assembled in situ on the Black area is
floor and then removed to be painted later. sprayed.
The kit floor was in this test shot short moulded at the rear – so some remedial work
The primer coated body and floor test fitted together. At this stage assess the fit and with plastic card was required before it could be painted. A coat or two of Grey primer
make any adjustments required before final painting and decaling. hid any imperfections nicely.
The body work with the Black areas painted and the masking removed. At this point a
first coat of clear varnish is applied to seal the paintwork and allow decaling to begin. The floor and interior painted and assembled ready for adding to the finished
bodywork. Construction of these parts is very simple and well thought out. The ease of
creating a very effective rendition of the real thing is a real pleasure.
The majority of the decals are in place at this point and it is now apparent that the
misalignment of the front stripe decal has left the Aston Martin badge some distance The bodywork trial fitted to the chassis and the wheels tacked in place. The fit of
from the moulded on logo. Fear not: you can avoid this mishap by first aligning the these parts is exemplary: not so loose as to allow daylight through, yet not so tight
decal to the front of the main bonnet vent before turning your attention to the intake. that it causes problems with taking the parts apart.
challenge to the budding the minimum of fuss. mirrors and wiper blades... and detailers and beginners out
modeller to come up with a With the glazings all located the DBR9 is complete, looking there, providing each with a
creative solution. We painted this firmly in place, the chassis ready for a race! suitable basis for their best work.
area with Tamiya Flat Black using should now be offered up to the It's excellent to have the Only a couple of minor quibbles
homemade masks (see the panel body work. This fits so well you chance to build this classy with the lack of window seals and
on how to do this). can do it without using any form racer in the 1/32 scale. The a slight twist to the chassis floor
Add all the windows before the of glue. Airfix Aston Martin DBR9 is a held up assembly, but the result
chassis is added to the bodywork. Now you can put your finishing competent and well-engineered is very pleasing indeed. Now,
This allows any necessary touches to this little gem: final kit of a neglected subject, and when can we have one in 1/24th?
shuffling to be carried out with small details, aerials, wing it will appeal to both the super Airfix, you listening? ❚
COLD WARRIO
Catapulted from Royal Navy carriers,
the unmistakeable, beautiful twin-
boomer known as the Sea Vixen was
a menacing looking fighter with the
capability to 'go nuclear'. But it had
its problems... Tony Buttler AMRAes
recalls 'interesting times'with a
remarkable aircraft
T
he de Havilland Sea was a relatively simple upgrade
Vixen, 'fighter all- that introduced deeper tail
weather' (FAW) served booms extending forward of the
with four front line Fleet wing leading edge, plus the more
Air Arm (FAA) squadrons (Nos. capable and sophisticated Red
890, 892, 893 and 899) from Top air-to-air missile instead of
July 1959 until January 1972 and the Mk.1’s Firestreak. The larger
also No. 766 Training Squadron. booms contained more fuel and
The Fleet Requirements and extra equipment, but in almost all
Air Direction Unit also flew other respects the two versions
examples until 1974, and for were similar.
years afterwards several other The first FAW.Mk.2 prototype
airframes were used for a variety XN684 made its maiden flight
of tasks. on June 1, 1962, and both
Developed from the DH.110 marks were powered by two
prototypes of 1951, the first Sea un-reheated 11,250lb (50kN)
Vixen FAW.Mk.1 XJ474 flew on thrust Rolls-Royce Avon 208 jet
March 20, 1957. The FAW.Mk.2 engines. In total, of 148 Sea
RIOR
XJ578 ‘125’ recovers during the
embarkation of 899 Squadron in
choppy seas to the carrier Eagle on
November 13, 1970. Fred Motley
Vixens were built: 119 Mk.1s and 29 with ease. In theory, there was 48,000ft (14,630m) – although day. TheVixen had an in-flight
Mk.2s, as well as 67 Mk.1s rebuilt no maximum Mach number limit many pilots took the fighter over refuelling capability, and with
to Mk.2 standard. but, in practice the top speed was 50,000ft (15,240m). underwing ‘buddy’ pods it could
In the right conditions on full around Mach 1.15. Four Red Tops were carried under supply fuel to other aircraft.
power, the FAW.Mk.2 could reach With a take-off weight of the wings but the weapon load
613kts (1,136km/h/Mach 0.929) 34,000lb (15,422kg) the Mk.2 also embraced a range of ground Bailing Out!
at sea level. At height it could could reach 40,000ft (12,192m) attack stores (including nuclear). In general, the following relates
achieve Mach 0.95 on the level in just under five minutes, all-up- The lack of guns was considered to both Sea Vixen marks because
and pass Mach 1 in a 15° dive, weight was 45,700lb (20,730kg), a weakness but the AI.Mk.18 radar there was little difference between
supersonic flight being achieved with service ceiling quoted as in the nose was very good for its the two. This was a big aircraft –
perhaps too big to operate from
The original manufacturer’s most British aircraft carriers,
drawing showing a although the largest (HMS Ark
breakdown of the Sea Vixen Royal and HMS Eagle) gave a pilot
FAW.Mk.2’s structure. some room for error. There was
no two-seat training version, so
aircrew had to adapt to the fighter
after flying rather smaller training
aircraft such as the Hawker
Hunter. The most controversial
aspect was the observer’s
position, placed inside the forward
fuselage without a canopy and
with only a small window. Seated
‘in the dark’, his situation was
claustrophobic but helped him
to monitor the poorly lit radar
screen. In fact, it rapidly became
second nature for observers to be
‘on instruments’ all the time. The
real worry was getting an observer
out in an emergency, because the
original system for removing his
hatch cover did not always work
and some aircrew were lost in
Booming
fantastic!
52 Airfix Model World
www.airfixmodelworld.com
A
irfix’s quarter-scale kit brake, and you have to decide
of the famous twin- whether it is to be closed or open.
boomed fighter must If the latter, do not glue the hinge
be one of the most points and leave it so it can move.
hotly anticipated kits ever, so you This will allow the airbrake to
can imagine the grins around mask the bay during painting. The
the editorial office when we fit of the airbrake is good apart
received this exclusive from the hinge line,
test shot before where there is a gap
the official on each side. This
release later “WHAT DOES won’t matter
this month if the door is
– and my STRIKE HOME IS THE posed open,
excitement but if it is
at being
SHARPNESS OF THE to be glued
the one to WING AND CONTROL shut, filler is
build it! necessary.
Our sample SURFACE TRAILING The intake
came in EDGES ” trunking and
white plastic, engines fit well,
which isn’t ideal although there
for photographing, are a couple of sink
so we primed certain marks on the exhaust
parts to get a clearer shroud part (no.10A). Also, there
picture. On release, the is a gap on the front portion of
sprues will be in the each intake, which needs to be
usual Airfix grey. blanked off with a small strip of
plastic card or stretched sprue,
A full fuselage and blended in.
After assembling the cockpit
(build and paint the seats too, but SEA VIXEN FAW.Mk.2
MODEL SPEC
Considerable effort has been put into detailing in many areas, as seen on the
various primed components.
Careful painting of the instruments and switches will pay The observer’s radar scope has been pleasingly reproduced and is
dividends. Note the ejector pin marks on the bulkhead. enhanced through careful brush work.
Flaps and undercarriage with normal and the wing fence slot and the underside White. Simply
Stages 47 and 48 deal with flap weighted profiles, is a little larger than paint the pylons White and leave
assembly and attachment, and and very realistic the fence, so a dash them for later. At this stage the
here you have the choice of up or separate hubs for the of filler may be needed if nose cone is also fitted, but not
down. In the case of flaps up, the outward-facing side of the flooding the gap with Liquid Poly before adding 35g of weight.
fit could be better; the problem main wheels. Detail is also doesn’t work. As for the wing-
has undoubtedly arisen because excellent on the gear legs. fold sections, the fit couldn’t be Get painting!
they are such a complex shape. It is best to skip fixing the more snug, and the outboard The airframe was primed with
You’ll need to carefully file back undercarriage until later in the flaps are just as good. Matt White, to highlight any
some plastic and continually test- build, for separate painting. Weapons pylons are next, imperfections and to give the
fit. Filler may also be required if but don’t fit them yet because top coats a key. Once dry, mask
your file work isn’t spot on. Wing assembly they’ll interfere with masking off the white in preparation for
Airfix thoughtfully provides The wings fit well, even with the demarcation between the the Extra-Dark Sea Grey. Gloss
wheels for the undercarriage separate ailerons, although upper Grey paint varnish follows the Grey to aid
decaling, and adding these may the main airframe, separate wings On fitting the actuator for the by the second production run.
take some time. Besides the main and stores complete, apply a airbrake, we found that on our We did suffer something of an
squadron markings, serials and sealing varnish. instructions Airfix has enigma though, as we had a part
national insignia, there’s myriad After overnight the part numbers left on the sprue, of which there
stencilling, which is best applied drying, the the wrong way is no mention on the instructions.
over several sessions. wings receive “THE WING round. It is It’s the aerodynamic fairing which
The decals’ carrier film lies their main suggested is used when the refuelling probe
between satin and matt, and we attachment
FENCE SLOT IS A that part isn’t fitted (part 90). If one opts
thought silvering could occur points, LITTLE LARGER THAN 26B is for an after-market decal sheet
on the red decals that adorn the pylons and for the which offers a scheme without
topside of the jet. To counter this, stores, but THE FENCE ITSELF, SO A airbrake- probe, the correct fairing is there.
Johnson’s Klear floor covering the pitot down Now it’s time to fit the seats, with
DASH OF FILLER MAY
was applied to the appropriate tubes are position a bit of manoeuvring, and the
areas, and buffed to a high gloss. left for later BE NEEDED” when the jet glazed parts can also be attached.
The move worked well and after due to their is on its wheels, The last job – and it’s not for
using decal setting solutions, not delicate nature. but it’s not… the nervous – is to attach the
a trace of silvering was found. Obviously, you can it should be 27B. outer wings. Due to their weight
There was a slightly visible lip defer weapons fitting until Airfix is going to add a (especially if weapons are already
on the edge of the under-wing after the folded outer wings correction sheet, and should have fitted), a temporary support is
serials. With decaling complete on are attached. amended the actual instructions necessary while they dry in place.
T he Fleet Air Arm had a reputation for forming countless jet aerobatic display teams
during the 1960/70s, when aircraft and flying hours were plentiful. The Sea Vixen
squadrons were no exception. The first was in 1962 when five instructors from 766 Sqn
formed ‘Fred’s Five’,to perform for several airshow seasons and in the 1962 SBAC Display
at Farnborough. In 1968, 892 Sqn displayed a six-FAW.2 team, dubbed ‘Simon’s Circus’
(illustrated), after the unit’s Commanding Officer, Lt Cdr Simon Idiens. The sheer noise and
sight six of the aircraft flying in close aerobatic formations guaranteed that the team was
in high demand to perform at countless airshows – but carrier duty restricted the aircraft’s
length of existence.
PAINT SPEC
1/48 1/48
1/72 1/72
DROP TANK
Sea Vixen FAW.Mk.2s were rarely
seen without their standard 200gal
(909lit) drop tanks mounted under either
1/48 outer wing-pylons. The additional fuel
allowed the aircraft to remain airborne
for approximately 2 hours 15 mins,
unrefuelled, at a patrol radius of 50nm
(93km) from the carrier.
1/72
ROCKET POD
The 2in (2.54cm) air-to-air rockets were equipped
with high-explosive warheads and armed by way of fuse
acceleration that would remain inactive until the rocket had
travelled 400ft (122m). The rockets could be mounted in 1/48
either two retractable launchers in the lower fuselage; hardly
ever used operationally, or in jettisonable wing-mouted pod
launchers; housing 36 rockets each. The rockets had an
operational range from 600 to 1,200yds (549 to 1,097m).
Up to four pods could be carried. 1/72
1/72
All artwork by
The Aviation Workshop:
Model Alliance
basic
BRUSH PAINTING
brush
work S
A clean workspace will ensure that
dust is kept to a minimum.
indications of soot. Note the erodes and salt, if not cleaned Use a stiff, short-haired brush the brush, try to keep the coat thin
patterns created by exhaust stains, properly, leaves encrustations – to run around the seams and so you don’t lose too much detail
which are peculiar to different although most naval outfits are engraved detail, or clean the model when the top coats are applied.
types of aircraft, as they are particular about cleanliness. with soapy water and allow it to dry Though priming can highlight
created by the airflow over wings thoroughly. Finally, when the model small areas needing attention, on
and fuselage. Preparation is ready, make sure both you and some models I have primed using
Also look at the tones included in Having done your study, bought your work area are as well. Make aluminium paint, which then can be
the main colour. Grey is difficult to and built your model, take your sure the area you are going to use sanded and scratched if a worn or
define because it can take tones time applying the paint. At this for painting is dust free, and wash chipped paint effect is desired.
from blue, green and yellow and stage, it is tempting to your hands, because paint
well as black, and even in the case grab the paint and cannot adhere to Painting
of light aircraft, grey can take get started, but small amounts of There are two principle types of
a red tone after abrasion. Matt it always pays “Take a grease that can model paint, oil-based enamel and
black applied evenly all over an to remember be transferred acrylic, which can be either spirit
aircraft, will make a night fighter that a good, close from food or water based. The choice is up to
look uniform from a distance, but painted look at what you or sweat – you, but be sure you get the right
a closer inspection will show tonal surface is and if you thinner for the paint you have
changes. only as good are about to contaminate decided to use. The thinner can
On aircraft the main colour will as what lies paint, under a your model be white spirit, cellulose, water or
change on areas with high wear, underneath you will need alcohol based. The first two
such as walkways, tanks and – and don’t magnifying to wash it are suitable for enamel and the
wings. Dirt accumulation looks be put off if glass” over again. latter for acrylics. To be on the
darker, and areas exposed to high things go wrong. Woolly clothing safe side, use the thinner for the
temperatures and sunlight will be Anything can will have dust and brand you are using, for example,
lighter. Desert schemes may end be cured. small hairs just waiting use Tamiya thinner with Tamiya
up looking lighter than originally Take a good, close look at what to leap onto your model, so if paint, or Lifecolor thinner with
painted because of sun bleaching you are about to paint, under possible wear an old cotton shirt. Lifecolor paint.
and dust accumulation, but a tank, a magnifying glass if possible. Stir the paint thoroughly to make
for example, deployed in muddy Are there scratches, glue marks Priming Application – sure all the pigments are mixed
conditions, will show darker or finger prints that need to be Brush Painting together, giving a uniform colour.
residues. In high humidity, weaker eradicated? Did the build leave Now the subject is masked, clean If the paint is too thick, reduce its
paint pigments fade, leaving the uneven areas which need flattening and wipe it lightly across the consistency with small amounts
stronger base colours intact. In out? If so, lightly sand the affected surface with a tack-rag being of thinner. If the paint is thin, two
such conditions brown can fade to area with sponge-backed sanding careful not to leave residue. Now coats will probably be necessary,
purple. The more an aircraft flies, sticks, which are available in it is time to get painting. Primer but don’t be tempted to use more
the more weathering it undergoes various grades and are very useful, can be applied; this can be aerosol, paint to try to cover or the paint
as the paint rips and scars. Sand especially around detail parts. or applied by brush. If you choose will run. Xtracolor and Humbrol
Stir the paint thoroughly. The best starting point for choosing your colours is the kit manufacturer’s
COLOURS
A cocktail stick is ideal for this. recommendation. Even this can be confusing, because it can be given as
British, US Federal or German standard (RLM – Reichs Luftfahrt Ministerium
and RAL – Reichs Ausschuss Lacke), or a colour name or a particular model
paint manufacturer’s colour number. It helps if you can get hold of a paint
conversion chart such as those produced by Humbrol or Lifecolor, or model paint
manufacturer’s colour chip charts.
Constancy in colour production is not as precise as the
manufacturers would like it to be, and even with 1:1 scale,
colour batches can deviate. Accuracy in matching a particular
military shade may vary with the different model paint
makers.There is some dispute about the application of
different shades to different scales, but unless you are into
perfection, do what you are happy with, and what best
represents the results of your research.
Before starting to paint, either by brush or with spray, mask areas where
MASKING
enamels environment. Now the first coat online providers. some dye-based. Both work
have good flow is dry, there is a good opportunity Decals are applied once the gloss very well and can enhance your
characteristicsfor mixing and cover to look for any flaws and gently coat is dry. On some very smooth model. Washes are applied to the
very well without leaving brush flatten these down using 1200 or gloss surfaces, decals can appear model and the excess removed
marks, but make sure you use finer grade wet and dry sandpaper to sit proud of the surface. To with a damp tissue leaving the
quality brushes. Test all acrylics or sanding stick. If you require a correct this, clear coat the area to residue around detail or engraved
before brush painting because high gloss finish, it is possible to which the decal has been applied, panel lines.
some makes are unsuitable for this use a matt finish for the colour and flat it back without breaking Decide how far you want to go in
purpose. For quick drying acrylic, apply a gloss varnish to get the through to the decal and clear terms of effort and realism, and
there is a retarder available to slow shine. The reason for this method coat again, using a clean brush (be do as much research as you can.
the drying process. is that gloss finishes stay wet thorough in examining the brush For example, if you are modelling
For camouflage schemes paint much longer than matt finishes, as any paint colour remaining in World War II United States Navy
the entire area with the lightest so there is a risk of dirt and dust the base of the bristles can give Aircraft, you might think a high
colour first. Load the brush with sticking to your model. the clear coat a tint) and the proportion of sea corrosion would
paint by dipping approximately same technique as for painting. be visible, but in fact these aircraft
two thirds of the bristles into the Clear coating Repeat if necessary. I keep a few were cleaned and maintained with
paint. My technique is to start Once the colour scheme is done, brushes just for clear coating in great regularity and were usually
at one wing tip, lightly working to apply the decals you will need a order not to get staining from in excellent condition.
inwards using single strokes in gloss finish. If this is not provided using previous colours. If you want to describe your
one direction. Apply paint to one by the paint used, then an When the decals are in place, aircraft as ‘just out of the paint
section, stopping at a convenient additional clear gloss coat may be choose your final finish, matt, satin shop’ then accentuation of the
joint such as the engine. While necessary. This coat is applied to or gloss clear coat and apply in the panel lines and seams will improve
the paint is still wet and without prevent silvering of the clear parts same manner as the paint. the look. Running a sharp pencil
reloading the brush, as if dusting of any decal film to be applied, and around the seams does this, as
the model, go lightly over the to make the surface smooth so the Weathering does running thinned oil, acrylic or
painted area with strokes in the decals will slide and settle. Many techniques are used to artists’ watercolours into the panel
same direction as that in which Most paint manufacturers have lend realism to the finish; some lines. Wipe the excess with a tissue
the paint was applied to remove clear gloss, matt or satin varnishes of the more popular methods are or cloth dampened with thinners.
the deeper brush marks. Be sure in their ranges, and water-based described below: Be very careful if using white spirit:
the paint has not become sticky clear coats are also available Ready-mixed washes are make sure your clear coat below
at all, or you will leave deeper from your local model shops or available; some are clay-based, the weathering is thoroughly dry.
brush marks. Once this is done, You can imitate fading, exhaust
move onto the next section, and Brush painting and fine detail work require a range of good quality and gun port stains using powders
EQUIPMENT
so on until the area you require brushes. If you have a selection, then you will always find the right one and pastel sticks. These have to
is covered. for the job. If you look online, there are several companies selling high be left on the outer surface, as
Now let your model dry. If it quality brushes for reasonable prices. For flat chisel brushes, look for sign brushing a clear coat over them
is apparent that two coats are writers’ brushes. Usually you’ll pay around £3 per brush. For the larger will drag the colours to areas
needed, make sure the first areas of bigger scale models, you will find one quarter, one half and where they are unwanted – but
coat is given at least 12 hours to one inch brushes useful. Chisel brushes with long sable hairs give good then of course, handling the
dry, (in the case of some gloss control and for fine details, use five 0, 000 and 0 grade brushes. model becomes a problem. Using
finishes, at least twenty-four After cleaning your brush, smear petroleum jelly a commercial aerosol clear coat
hours are needed). If you apply can resolve this, but be warned
or linseed oil onto the hair – this prolongs the
the second coat too soon, the that these can react against some
life of the brush and keeps the hairs supple. Never
paint of the first coat becomes enamels, especially satin or gloss
leave your brushes standing in a pot of thinner;
activated and starts to drag finishes. If you have doubts, do a
wash the brush out and lay it flat on a piece of
with the brush, leaving quite test piece first. ❚
tissue or card. Before starting your next paint job,
a mess. It is possible to speed
remember to clean out the petroleum
up the drying process using a Next time we’ll look at
jelly/linseed oil.
hairdryer or placing in any warm advanced painting
APOLLO
MODEL SPEC
SATURN V
Stock
Code:
A11170
Scale:
1/144
The second (S-II) stage has the
Price: most faults, though without major
£34.99 surgery the only aspect tackled in a
straightforward manner is the removal
of these ‘teardrop’ shaped mouldings...
On November 9, 1967, Apollo 4, the first test flight of the Apollo/Saturn V space
vehicle, was launched from Kennedy Space Center Launch Complex 39. (NASA) The main sections of the Saturn V can be cemented together.
for the SM, and the umbilical it had to fit under an injection- pleasing representation of the are compromised by the way the
between CM and SM was added. moulded BPC (which is over- world’s most powerful rocket ever. parts have to be moulded, so they
This meant that nine parts were scale), it now looks even smaller Although the instructions indicate are not true individual stringers;
manufactured, and as a bonus, – but externally it is hidden. building the kit so that the main rather they appear step-like. The
the original rectangular stand, stages can be separated to show only area where they appear as
(the tooling for which had long Rocket Power the inner detailing, there is the actual stringers are on the four
been lost), was re-tooled. The engine bell for the SM also option of omitting these parts, and skirts around the F-1 first stage
Decals have been updated and was not corrected. It should be far cementing the whole launcher engines. Even sanding them off
corrected, instructions altered more curved, whereas it comes out together ‘as one’ if you are a completely and rebuilding from
and new box-art commissioned. almost as a straight-sided cone, stickler for accuracy. This hides the scratch won’t cure this, but this is
Some corrections could not be but again it’s hidden. Externally inaccurate Apollo details inside, not apparent on completion.
made though. The Command the only really visible fault is with and the incorrect arrangement of Before the stage halves are
Module stayed as it was and the second stage, the S-II, where the engines of the S-II stage. It also glued together, the upper and
because it was already under- some surface moulding is wrong. means that the relevant bulkheads lower bulkheads/engine plates
sized, due to the limitation that Otherwise the kit offers a very could be omitted – however, even if for both S-II and S-IVB stages,
not visible, they add rigidity. and the upper of the S-IC need
Assuming the model is being built fitting before the main halves are
as intended, because the stages bought together, as they slot in
are designed to come apart to grooves. Only the engine plate for
show the engine and bulkheads, the S-IC stage, that holds the five
the kit splits logically into three F-1 motors, can be left out of the
major sections: the first S-IC stage, present equation.
second S-II and third S-IVB with The fitted bulkheads require
the Apollo Modules. painting, and here one is faced
The stringers visible on the S-II The main stages are all in two with the ‘exactly what is correct?’
stage are not a fault if you are building halves and fit pretty well. There is problem. If some external details
...which can be done with a one of the earlier launchers. However,
the problem that the stringers (the are still under dispute, internal
grinding bit in a drill. they can be sanded down.
corrugations) all over the stages components present even more
Ensure the masking tape is well Even with the greatest care,
pushed into crevices, particularly The conical Inter-stage that sometimes the paint creeps, so apply
areas such as those highlighted by the Even with the special masking tape, connects the S-II to the S-IV is probably the tape carefully with a scalpel blade
tweezers. the odd lump of Blu-Tack is useful. the most tricky to mask. to get the best results.
guess-work. Some images the basic manufacturing colour the stages are not going to be
show bulkheads (which are, of the material, or after thermal regularly seen, if at all, the most
in effect, the tops of the protection has been applied? straightforward option is to select
fuel tanks) in chromate aluminium for everything – if they
yellow, green, an almost Bulkhead Building are painted at all. For this build,
glossy orange colour; The kit’s painting instructions for the S-IC bulkhead was fitted and
black or aluminium. Then all inner surfaces is Humbrol 56 then painted in a chromate green
the inner surfaces of the aluminium, but this was really after assembly and painting of the
main halves also come down to the more prosaic fact that exterior.
under debate, though here only a limited number of paint Conversely, the S-IIC bulkhead,
‘aluminium’ seems the colours could be given. as it is buried under the conical
most popular shade, maybe A decision also has to be made inter-stage, (making it more
with a green tinge. With as to whether these bulkheads difficult to paint in position) is
rocketry, one must consider are painted first, installed, then best painted first, and here the
exactly at which stage of masked for any future painting, glossy orange shade that appears
construction the subject or left until last. This is down in some images was used, (it is a
was photographed. Is it to your personal preference. If Testors Boyd Colors paint, actually
intended for custom cars –
Sunburst, over Matt Red/Scarlet),
with the insides of the halves
aluminium. Only then were they
placed in position and the halves
cemented.
At this stage another fault
seems apparent, but that is not
the case: the S-IIC stage alone
has external ‘stringers’ visible
both longitudinally and around
its diameter. This has often been
cited as a fault, but it isn’t – as
long as you are not building a
launcher past Apollo 13. Until
that point, this is correct and
photographs show these clearly.
On later launchers a sprayed-
on insulation was used that Of the three stages, the S-II also
camouflaged these stringers. has a baffle plate surrounding
The pattern isn’t entirely right; the engines. It is another one of
there should actually be more, but those items invariably thought to
if you stick with the instructions be at fault – the full-size displays
and are building launcher AS-506 don’t have it. But it is there on the
(Apollo 11), these can be left as actual flight rockets – although it
represented, but sanded down needs cutting down to the correct
slightly. If depicting a later shape. However, it is still uncertain
launcher, these will need removing. if it was fitted for every flight.
Either way, what needs to be With the stages completed, and
eradicated are the teardrops at any bulkheads masked, paint these
the top of this stage. They do not Satin White. Now that Humbrol
feature in any known photograph. has moved from enamel aerosols
Although the main halves of all to acrylic, this has lost the high
(NASA)
stages are a good fit, some shine of the gloss shades,
filler may be required. though in this case
After the President Kennedy speech of 1961 to “Land a Man on the
MOON MISSIONS
When the surface the gloss 22 white
appears smooth, aerosol, if used Moon”, the green light was given for the building of the comparatively
run a finger over “A TIP IS here, comes smaller alternative to Nova, the Saturn V. Boeing would build the
it to tell more TO SAVE THE out about first S-IC stage, North American Rockwell the second S-II stage and
than the eye, GOOD STUFF right as it McDonnell-Douglas the third S-IVB unit. The latter company would
then prime FOR MASKING shouldn’t also construct the Apollo Command and Service Modules (CSM), and
the parts. be super- Grumman the Lunar Module (LM).
THE EDGE, AND
The bottom shiny. Saturn V’s first stage was powered by five F-1 engines, the second five
bulkheads of BACK IT UP Humbrol J-2 and the third a single J-2 - all built by Rocketdyne. The F-1 burned a
each stage WITH CHEAPER 34 Matt mix of liquid oxygen (LOX) and RP-1 (kerosene), while the J-2 used an
are the engine TAPE” White can all-cryogenic concoction of LOX and liquid hydrogen. This makes the S-II
plates. Here again, be used as an stage with its five J-2 engines the single most powerful cryogenic rocket
the colouration is undercoat, or stage ever built.
not straightforward. Revell’s Basic Color is Every fact about the Saturn V was superlative. Diameter of the S-IC stage
The S-IC stage plate that also suitable. was 33ft (10.15m) and length 138ft (42.46m). The S-II was the same
holds the F1 engines is almost With the white thoroughly dry, it’s diameter, but shorter at 81.5ft (25m), while the S-IVB was narrower at
certainly correct as semi-gloss time for masking to add the black just under 22ft (6.77m), and was just over 58ft (17.85m) long. Sitting
white, although while the JSC and panels. Use one of the specialist above this was the three feet (one metre) high Instrument Unit, and above
KSC display examples are this model masking tapes because it that the Spacecraft – Lunar Module Adaptor (SLA). Lastly, the Apollo Craft
colour, the Huntsville machine is needs to be relatively low-tack, plus the Launch Escape System, all of which added up to a rocket which
in chromate green, although this and to give a really good edge. A stood at 363ft (111.7m) tall, and fully loaded with fuel weighed in at a
does appear in the minority. tip is to save the ‘good stuff’ for
mammoth 6,400,000lb (2,902,991kg). Most of this weight was actually
What is even less clear is the S-II masking the edge, and back it up
92% propellant; only 500,000lb (22,6796kg) was hardware. When fired,
plate. This is either aluminium with cheaper tape. With the larger
each of the first stage F-1 engines used fuel at three tons per second, so
(photos that show the actual areas to cover, drop inside an old
all five lightened the whole assembly by 15 tons per second. They burned
assembly of flight hardware are polythene bag, such as one of
for 2½ minutes, generating more than 7½ million pounds of thrust.
in this shade, but as another those used for holding kit parts.
A total of 13 Saturn V rockets were launched, and each was a success.
example of potential confusion, One thing that's not
Apollo 4, in November, 1967 and Apollo 6, in April, 1968, were unmanned.
the display examples show it straightforward with Saturn V
white, as per the first stage). But is that much of the masking has The first actual manned flight was Apollo 7, but carried aloft on a smaller
the S-IVB engine plate is almost to be done over the stringers/ Saturn 1B. By the end of 1968, though, the first manned flight of a Saturn
certainly correct as aluminium. corrugations. Here the tape V was scheduled, Apollo 8. This carried the first astronauts, Frank Borman,
Jim Lovell and Bill Anders, ever to fly away from the confines of the Earth,
and to see for themselves the far side of the Moon, at Christmas, 1968.
Then Apollo 9 tested the Lunar Module in Earth orbit, and Apollo 10 did
the same but in Lunar orbit. In fact, Apollo 10 did everything that Apollo 11
would do – except land.
Apollo 11 lifted off on July 16, 1969, with Neil Armstrong, Edwin ‘Buzz’ Aldrin
and Michael Collins as Commander, Lunar Module pilot and Command
Module Pilot respectively. The three-day flight put them in Lunar Orbit, and
after final checks the Lunar Module Eagle undocked from the Command
Module Columbia and started its decent to the Moon’s surface. Touchdown
was logged at 20.18 Universal Time (UT, the same as Greenwich mean
Time), July 20, 1969. The first step onto the Lunar surface was made by Neil
Armstrong’s left boot, at 02.56 UT on July 21, 1969, which, confusingly, was
still July 20 at Houston. The rest, as they say, is history.
Apollo 11 was followed by six more missions, all of which landed, with the
infamous exception of Apollo 1 which caught fire on the ground, although
none of the problems they encountered were connected with the Saturn
Age and wear on the tooling has taken its toll on the five F-1 engine parts - these
need careful assembly, any gaps filled, then sanded and the lines restored around the V launch. There was one final flight of a Saturn V, this being the modified
engine bells, with needle files. Skylab Saturn V that launched the famous space station in 1973.
Aft end of the S-1C first stage, showing the white engine heat shield. The fairings
above the engines, fins and the bottom of the engine bells will be installed after the
S-1C is mounted on the Mobile Launch Platform. The serial S-1C-3 next to the crane
hook identifies this as Apollo 8’s Saturn V. (NASA)
Aft end of an S-IVB third stage shows details of the single J-2 engine, thrust structure,
and the aft fuel tank dome. The thrust structure is the ribbed, conical area between the
engine and the dome of the fuel tank. It passes the thrust of the engine to the S-IVB’s
structure so that the dome does not buckle. (NASA/courtesy of nasaimages.org)
Kennedy Space Center’s recently renovated Saturn V. The vast scale of the rocket
The S-1C first stage is lifted into position to begin stacking a Saturn V. is clear in this view of the five first-stage F-1 engines. Each engine burned 5,683lb of
Position numbers and the vehicle’s serial number are visible to the right of the fuel and oxidizer per second, producing more than 1.5 million pounds of thrust.
‘USA’ marking. (NASA) (Peter O. Johnson)
• www.apollosaturn.com
REFERENCE MATERIAL
Amazonian
Attacker
Chris Clifford BUILDS EDUARD’S LIMITED-EDITION 1/48
SU-17/22 M3 FITTER, WHICH ADDS RESIN, METAL, MASKS
AND NEW DECALS TO THE ORIGINAL OEZ MOULD
A
s well as providing fuel replacing the rear cockpit. The
sterling service to Soviet original manufacturer OEZ’s Fitter
Bloc air arms during moulding still stands up well today,
the Cold War, Sukhoi’s although most modellers will want
pugnacious bomber still soldiers more detail. Eduard has duly come
on, used by many countries around to the rescue by adding two frets
the world. of photo-etched metal parts, resin
The variant in Eduard’s box, the components and a sheet of paint
Su-17M3 (and export Su-22M3), masks. Rounding off this bumper
was first developed from the package is a stunning, five-option
Su-17UM, with extra avionics and decal tally, comprising one Peruvian,
Although a two-seater, this Peruvian Fitter displays common weaponry. In this case, UB-57-32
rocket pods and ï dumbÍ bombs. (Key - Alan Warnes)
one Libyan and three Soviet export Su-22 versions, because in that it was the only country removed and cleaned up, glue
schemes. This mould was also they were equipped with the from the Americas to buy the the cockpit floor to the wheel well
previously released as an M4 Fitter Tumansky R29 engine, which export Su-22. (kit parts), followed by the new
and the extra parts, such as the changed the shape of the rear resin rear cockpit bulkhead. Don’t
prominent air intake at the base of fuselage. Original Su-17M3s in The build attach the resin side consoles as
the vertical tail, are still included. Soviet use relied on the Lyulka Eduard has provided high quality the instructions suggest. It’s easier
The kit will be inaccurate if you AL-21F-3 power plant. Eduard has replacement cockpit to add and paint the
choose to build either of the not provided parts for this, but parts, which demand details before they
easy-going modellers will be happy patience and are permanently
to look beyond this though, in the careful attention. fixed. Also,
absence of replacement parts. The resin is “This model
“Eduard the seat
The more adventurous may
feel like tackling the problem
exquisite, but
very delicate.
willprovidEd
has end up needs to be
temporarily
by re-contouring with putty or Slowly ahigh
masterpiece
qualiTy attached
other means.
For this build the Peruvian
and gently
remove these
with that
rEplacEmEnT with Blu-
Tack first
markings proved too parts from extra
cockpiT to assess
attractive to ignore, with the
stylised tiger head looming
their casting
plugs using a
attention”
parTs” the correct
position of the
large on the nose, along razor saw, avoiding side consoles so
with the smart green and pressure on the parts. they allow enough
grey camouflage. The It’s better to hold the space for the seat.
aircraft is from Grupo casting plug while sawing, rather Test-fitting of the seat reveals
Aereo No.11 ‘Tigres’, than the part itself. For modellers that the control column will not
and may have been unfamiliar with this medium, be fit into the dedicated hole in the
one of several that aware that the dust from sanding cockpit floor. The lower column
participated in the 1995 and sawing resin is toxic, so it is is slightly over-sized, but can be
border war against advisable to wear a mask. thinned-down with a file. Delay
Ecuador. Peru is unique Once all the cockpit parts are its attachment until later, so
positioning but if this make is unavailable to the MiG-21 – bear this in mind if out individual switches and
can be you, then check your references that shade proves tempting. components on the consoles and
assessed and it for suitable alternatives. After rear bulkhead, with Grey, Blue,
doesn’t interfere some research, we chose Tamiya Add life to the ‘office’ Black, Buff and Metallic paint
with either seat or XF25 Matt Light Sea Grey as After painting the cockpit, add where necessary. Matt varnish
instrument panel. a close match for the colour subtle dry-brushing using the will then tone down the gloss of
Paint or airbrush the seen in photographs. Later same Tamiya XF25 lightened the etched parts, and give a more
aforementioned cockpit parts, Fitter cockpits do not seem to slightly with White, to accentuate harmonious finish.
along with the relevant area of have been painted in the vivid the resin’s sharp detailing. The rudder bar is over-scale so,
each fuselage half. Eduard offers turquoise that adorns earlier Now attach the photo-etched if you are inclined, cut a piece of
Gunze Sangyo paint references, Soviet Fitters and others such as metal parts for the side consoles. Evergreen 0.75mm plastic strip
These parts can be removed from as a replacement, and attach the
the fret in various ways, but a etched metal pedals.
good method is to cut them off at Staying with the prescribed
the joining point with an X-acto phases, the next sub-assembly
chisel blade, using downward covers the nose intake shock
pressure while the fret rests on a cone. As the kit is a tail-sitter
bathroom tile (tape the fret to the (requires extra weight in the
tile to stop it moving). A standard nose), some form of weight
plastic cutting mat is too soft and has to be fitted inside the cone
will allow distortion of the parts or forward fuselage. Eduard
when cutting. The metal part that recommends 10g. Lead flashing
attaches to the top of the rear from a builders’ merchant is an
bulkhead needs folding. You can excellent medium: glue small
gently do this with tweezers, or a slices into one half of the cone’s
dedicated tool. body before the halves are joined,
Eduard supplies two etched metal frets, one plain, ready for your own brushwork, Once these parts have set, detail and attach the back-plate and
and the other is pre-coloured. painting can begin by picking nosecone with Liquid Poly.
Minor surgery afterburner parts after assembly and I used Humbrol’s Metalcote marking out, then cutting away
Looking now at the engine, remove because join lines will need rubbing Polished Steel for this build. When said parts with a razor saw. Fine-
one of the moulded-on plastic down, and any paint applied will be airbrushed it dries to a Matt Grey, tune the cut with a file, then attach
rings on kit part 39. This makes lost. First, glue the parts but once polished with a the replacement part provided. It’s
way for a much more detailed together, then use soft cloth, provides a advisable to test-fit it first, and to
metal afterburner ring. Remove a half-round file realistic finish. tape together the fuselage halves
the ring by drilling either side of and abrasive Some minor to check alignment.
it – this will be much quicker if paper to “Reinstate surgery is also It’s now possible to attach the
you have an electric modelling
drill, rather than a hand-operated
clean up
the seams.
any lost required in
the nose
afterburner, cockpit and intake
bullet sections, but do give these
twist drill. This step is tricky, and Clear the panel line and undercarriage sub-assemblies plenty of drying
demands careful filing to keep the sanding rivet detail area. On the time before mating the fuselage
centre portion intact. After the dust and original kit, halves, which is next. With the
unwanted section’s removal, and paint the with a KP failed to cockpit, only apply glue to the
filing and sanding, brush on Liquid inside a gun scriber and correctly locate sides of the floor, as this will allow
Poly to neaten the area. metal shade the position of fine-tuning of the upper section of
You will notice that once the and let it dry.
drill” the nose wheel the rear bulkhead once the halves
new metal afterburner part is Next, paint the well. To fix this, are together (dry-fitting revealed
attached, there is a clear view forward fuselage Eduard’s instructions a poor fit).
into the fuselage. This can easily area silver, ensuring that require that a 3.5mm section Apply a fairly thick glue to one
be blanked off with a circle of the grey cockpit section is masked of the rear of the nose wheel well fuselage half, mate both halves
plastic card, painted the same off to prevent overspray. The aperture be cut away on each and adjust accordingly, and neaten
gun metal colour. inner surfaces of the extreme fuselage half. This is quickly and the join with Liquid Poly before
It’s best to paint the main rear fuselage also need painting, easily done by measuring and clamping and leaving to dry.
On our sample, the fuselage
halves were of a slightly different
diameter towards the rear, so after
drying, the mismatched areas
received treatment with a file, and
abrasive paper with water. Start
with 600 grade Wet and Dry, and
finish with 1200 grade for a super-
smooth finish. Reinstate any lost
panel line and rivet detail with a
scriber and drill bit respectively.
You can now turn your attention
to the tail unit, which fits well
but needs sensors and the
countermeasures unit adding.
These are metal and resin, and
they fit superbly – only the latter
requires minimal clean-up. With
these units attached, the entire
tail is glued to the fuselage. You
A line-up of Peruvian Su-22M3 and M2 Fitters illustrating the camouflage patterns and the may have to fine-tune the join
aircrafts' relatively light wearthering. (Key – Alan Warnes) with a file, but regardless, flood
the join with Liquid Poly for a
The resin cockpit consoles with radar and hazard switches painted and coloured
etched metal applied.
smooth appearance, and use filler each tip mounts a pair of bulbs,
if necessary. coloured green to starboard and
red to port, under a clear cover.
Swing wings and lack Unfortunately, Eduard’s kit has
of lights solid plastic wing-tips. If you are
Only the outer sections of the happy with just painting the light
Fitter’s wings actually swing, with sections silver, then with the red
the inboard wing housings carrying and green clear colours, then do
the weapons. This eliminates so, but there is a clever way of
the worry of correctly aligning making more accurate light units
swivelling pylons, as on aircraft and some reference photos will
such as the Tornado and F-111. be useful.
However, it’s far easier to mask and After the wing halves have been
paint the outer wings before they glued together and the seams
are enclosed between the inboard rubbed down, mark out what
sections. Before this is done, should be the clear section of the
though, there is the matter of the light using the panel lines as a
The busy ï officeÍ of an Su-22 Fitter. (Key Collection)
wing-tip lights. On the real aircraft, guide. Remove it with a razor saw,
file smooth and paint both filed Don’t forget to mask your most suitable. I used Humbrol coat of gloss varnish to protect
faces silver. shiny new lights, using very thin paints for the actual camouflage, them until the decal stage.
Now, here’s the ingenious bit: cut strips of tape. The outer wings but the choice is up to you. Gunze
two sections of the clear sprue that can then be painted/airbrushed and Xtracolor also produce the Fuselage details
holds the canopy parts, making with the relevant camouflage required shades, and the latter Focus can now shift to the
them slightly larger than the colours, according to which option are glossy, which means if applied fuselage, which still needs its
finished item needs to be. Rub the you choose. The Peruvian jet correctly, the surface will be ready four airbrakes fitted near the tail.
sprue sections on a file until they coded ‘167’ wears a three- for decals without an extra There is the option to have them
adopt a half-round profile. Next, colour pattern on gloss varnish coat. either open or closed, but both
drill two holes, 2mm apart, and fill top, consisting of If you use an mean extra work. The recesses in
them with the relevant clear colour. FS36118 Grey, airbrush but the fuselage are too shallow, so
Once the paint has dried, attach FS34092 Green “Rub the the thought the airbrakes won’t be accurate.
the new clear sections to the and FS34102 spRue of free- If you don’t relish the thought of
silver-painted wing-tip ends. After Green, with hand work scratch-building deeper recesses,
an hour’s drying time shape them, FS36375 and sections on a troubles then the only other way is to pose
initially with a rough file, then an Aluminium file until they you, the airbrakes closed. Plenty of
with 1000 grade abrasive paper
and water. To reinstate a clear and
section on
the underside
adopt a you can
achieve soft
test-fitting is required for this, as
the airbrake petals themselves sit
shiny finish, use a ladies’ four- of the outer half-Round demarcation proud of the surrounding fuselage.
stage nail file, like those available
in Boots. They are cheap and
wing – this
portion bears
pRofile” lines using
thin ‘worms’ of
Use a half-round file to reduce the
plastic from the inside, and this will
excellent for this job. Go straight to the brunt of the Blu-Tack to mask promote a snug fit. Some filler may
the number three surface, gently swinging movement. the relevant areas. also be necessary.
buffing the clear sprue, then finish After washing the outer Spray from behind the Blu- Once this is carried out, add the
off with the number four polisher. wings with soapy water to Tack, and the lower the angle, the pallet-shaped kit part 48 to the
The process sounds scary, but it’s eradicate sanding dust, rinsing softer the line becomes. fuselage spine, the nose ring to
easier than you’d imagine. Another and drying, apply a medium Low-tack masking tape is perfect the front fuselage and the resin
minor issue is that the trailing matt grey primer, followed by for covering the aluminium under-nose sensor. Next, the air
edges of the wings are rather the aforementioned camouflage section and its sharp edges. One intakes (kit parts 63, 64, 69) need
thick, but a few scrapes down the and metallic. The latter can can also paint the area, which mating to the rear fuselage. Take
edge with a scalpel, followed by a vary wildly in shade depending accommodates the swinging wings careful note here as extra intakes
light sanding, will produce a more on manufacturer. In this case, interior green. Once the paint on are provided depending on which
in-scale effect. Xtracolor’s X142 Aluminium was the outer wings has dried, add a version one is building. They are
solid though, so drill them and drilling out the relevant holes On our kit, a rather large gap fuselage. These include
out to create proper openings. to accept the weapons pylons, appeared at the join between the antennae bases and the edging
Simply mark your drilling point dry-fit the lower-inboard sections lower inboard wing and fuselage. for the landing/taxiing lamps.
with a pin and drill out the hole, and if the locating tab prevents This was filled with a long sliver Also required are the weapons
angling the bit while you turn to a good fit, remove it. Locate the of plastic card, fixed with Liquid pylons, which fit poorly without
widen the aperture. outer wings using the moulded-on Poly and sanded smooth. There robust filing, test-fitting and a
pivot point. A small blob of Blu- was also an overlapping seam in dash of filler.
Fit those wings Tack will help keep the wings in the undercarriage bay, which was For our jet, just two belly pylons
For a super-neat upper wing join, position while they are sandwiched levelled with a file. were chosen, along with four
clean up the top half of each wing between upper and lower halves. under-wing hard points. Once all
then glue it to the fuselage using It’s up to you if you glue them Refinements and the cleaning up is complete, give
Liquid Poly. Quickly adjusting the or not, but if left ‘mid-swing’, it poor pylons the whole structure the once-over
position before the glue dries. will be easier to clamp the upper Now it’s time to add some of the to make sure there are no other
Before fitting the outer wings, and lower portions while drying. small etched-metal parts to the areas in need of sanding or filling.
If satisfied, priming with a base
coat that will give a neat, uniform
Matt finish. It will serve to help
identify any areas that still need
attention, and provide a key on
which the successive camouflage
coats can adhere.
Before adding the primer,
mask the intake shock cone and
In order to more accurately portray cockpit to prevent overspray. The
wing-tip lights, mark of the solid end horizontal tails and undercarriage
Sections of the clear parts sprue can portions and saw away. File the remaining
be used to imitate wing-tip lenses. doors can also receive primer at
face smooth for painting silver.
this stage. Once applied, leave it
to dry for a few hours – or more if
using enamel paint. After drying,
the landing gear bays can receive
their coat of colour. After studying
undercarriage photographs of the
real aircraft, Xtracolor’s X17 Barley
Grey fitted the bill. A couple of
drops of the same maker’s Matt
Once filed, sanded and polished, the varnish was added, along with
Glue the new lens sections to the new wing-tip light units look much more Eduard thoughtfully provides masks
thinner, to give the Gloss paint a
wing-tips. like the real thing. for painting the canopy and windshield.
Satin sheen.
The afterburner ring with the A plastic card shim helps fill the gap
unwanted section removed, and with the between the rear cockpit bulkhead and
replacement etched metal part fitted. Paint the fuselage parts. Once the shim is
a backing plate and attach it to the rear to filed to shape, superglue the bulkhead
prevent seeing into the fuselage. to it, closing the gap.
Another task is to paint the so mask them with Blu-Tack for a underside colour as the aircraft, metal replacements. This is
anti-flutter masses on the soft edge. Add the lightest colour while the rocket pods were painted fiddly, but it makes the world of
horizontal tails (the pointy things). first, being the Grey, followed by with Xtracolor X500 Duralumin difference in terms of accuracy.
Use masking tape to obtain a the lighter Green, then the dark on the nosecone, and Humbrol 11 Once assembled, keep it stored
neat line, and apply some Humbrol Green. Silver on the body. FS34092 Green safely away from your workbench
60 Scarlet. Also, the dielectric panels on was added to the ECM pod, and all to avoid breakage. Don’t attach
The next job before the main the fin tip, nose underside and under-wing stores were varnished either pitot yet, as this is best
camouflage can be applied is to wing leading edges need painting. and given a wash. done after the large tiger head
paint the Metallic sections, such as Many Fitters have these in a bright After the weaponry you can also decals are applied. Ideally, it should
the gun blast panels, immediate Green, but the Peruvian prepare the pitot tubes, be one of your last jobs to avoid
areas around the gun barrels aircraft panels are with the main unit breaking off the delicate aerials.
and forward portions of the darker, so Humbrol needing its plastic Eduard supplies a useful sheet
inboard weapons pylons. Eduard’s 2 Emerald was aerials cutting of tape masks to aid painting the
instructions do not mention the mixed with “A SMALL away to canopy and windshield, but before
latter, but the photograph of 116 Green accommodate this, dunk the glazed parts in some
aircraft ‘167’ clearly shows that the for a more BLOB OF the finer Johnson’s Klear floor covering,
pylons’ forward area is bare metal. accurate BLU-TACK WILL etched- then place them on a sheet
When these Metallic areas have tone.
dried, mask them in preparation While paint HELP KEEP
for adding the underside colour, is drying the THE WINGS IN
FS36375 Grey. The wheel bay
doors can be temporarily attached
weapons can
be assembled.
POSITION”
with Blu-Tack, so they can mask Under-wing
the bays and receive paint at the stores should be
same time. treated the same as the
Top-side camouflage can now aircraft itself, in that seams
be considered, but first, set should be cleaned up, and any lost
the demarcation line for the detail replaced by re-scribing.
underside colour using Blu-Tack, if
airbrushing. If spraying, mask off Choose your weapons!
the reminder of the underside with Peruvian Fitters toted a wide
tape, and pay particular attention range of weaponry and for this
to the weapons pylons and wing build, a fit of fuel tanks, UB-57-
leading edges, as the topside 32 rocket pods and SPS-141
camouflage curls around to the electronic countermeasures
wings’ underside. Also, on the real (ECM) pod were selected, all being
aircraft, the gun blast panels have included in the kit. The metal HUD frame sitting on the plastic plinth. The latter must be removed if the
a freehand spray demarcation line The wing tanks received the same windscreen is to fit properly.
REFERENCE MATERIAL
• Squadron/Signal Sukhoi
Fitters in action
ISBN 0-89747-214-4
• Kagero Topshots
Su-22M4/UM3K
ISBN 83-89088-72-X
• Aerofax Sukhoi
Su-7/-17/-20/-22
ISBN 1-85780-108-3
of kitchen paper to soak up the When all the decals have and shine, and for this build, the whole section off-Black for a
excess fluid while drying. This dried, give the whole airframe a 50/50 mix of Xtracolor Matt realistic faded look.
will leave your clear components another coat of Gloss varnish and Satin was used – the latter Staying with metal parts,
super-shiny. to protect the decals during the ensures a pleasing, subtle sheen glue the canopy rails to the
When all the masks are applied, washing process. It’s a fairly dark when dry. canopy and cockpit sills using
fill in the portions to remain clear aircraft, so a sympathetic wash One detail missing from the kit cyanoacrylate, along with the
with Maskol, or smaller sections is required. Black on its own is is the button-shaped parts on internal canopy mirrors.
of tape – and don’t forget to too harsh, so mix Black and Raw the wing leading edge dielectric Emphasis can now centre on
attach the rear-view mirror. The Umber oil paint with thinner, panels. There are two on each, the undercarriage and wheels,
first coat on the glazing should be before being added carefully and these were made from thin which have quite a few mould
the cockpit colour, followed by the to every panel line with a fine plastic card, using a punch and seams. Once cleaned up,
outer camouflage. brush. If a clean finish is desired, die set. If you don’t own one, assemble as advised and paint
wipe off the excess with a soft consider splashing out – they accordingly. Build and paint the
Decals and more realism cloth after about 15-20 minutes, have a multitude of uses. landing gear and wheels (using
At this point apply Gloss varnish to in the direction of the airflow. For Now you can assemble the the masks provided) so the jet
the airframe, in preparation for the a grimier airframe, wait half an instrument panel and glue it can sit on its legs, and then
decals. Eduard’s markings are all hour to 40 minutes. If there are to the cover, which in turn is attach the remaining delicate
very clear, thin and in register, and any stubborn areas that won’t attached to the decking, and the metal aerials, pitot tubes,
respond well to setting solution. wipe away with a dry cloth, dab a Head-Up Display (HUD) frame canopy and mirrors, landing
The large tiger heads may need little paint thinner on the cloth. can also be included. The raised lights and weapons. The final
something a little stronger in order To seal in the wash, add a final portion on which the HUD sits step is to finish any remaining
to get them to bed down properly, varnish coat of your choice. must be cut off because the detail painting, such as the small
and Daco extra-strong decal fluid Peruvian Fitters have displayed windscreen won’t fit if it’s left blisters under the nose and on
was used on our sample. varying degrees of weathering in place. When attached, paint the fin tip.
Verdict?
Eduard is to be congratulated on
updating Sukhoi’s brutish mud-
mover, and with the resin, metal
and photo-etched metal, it’s a
fun and absorbing package. If
you have a few builds under your
belt, but have never tried using
after-market embellishments
Mask the underside to set the Pre-shade the fuel tanks with Matt Now camouflaged, give the outer wings before, this Fitter is the perfect
demarcation line under the wing black along the panel lines for a more a coat of gloss varnish to protect the Matt
introduction to multi-media
leading edge. ‘elderly’ appearance. paint, and also to prepare for the decals.
modelling. Relish the challenge! ❚
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SOMETHING NEW FOR THE S70: OPEN YOUR HAWK FOR THE T700
THE MULTI-ROLE AEGEAN HAWK UH/SH/HH-60 Engine Set
S-70 B-6 Greek Variant With Flir Conversion Set And Decals This unusual resin set enables you to open the starboard engine bay
For those looking for something a little bit different for their 1/72 Sea Hawk of a 1/72 Sea Hawk or Black Hawk. Intended for either the Italeri
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a Hellenic Navy example, better known locally as the ‘Aegean Hawk’, to be that slots directly onto the model after minor modification of the
built utilising any of the current range of SH-60B/F kits available. kit parts. Delicately moulded, curved engine covers are provided,
Introduced into service with the Greek Navy in 1995, the Sikorsky S-70 has complete with hinges. The outstanding item is the General Electric
been steadily upgraded over the years and these modifications are reflected T700 engine with remarkable cast
in the 17 resin parts supplied. Some minor surgery is necessary to the basic detail, including all the associated
kit in order to add some parts, and careful separation will be needed in order wiring and panel detailing.
not to damage the resin radar disk and the forward looking infrared turret
(FLIR) when removing these parts from the casting block. The substantial By: Armycast M&M
PRODUCT SPEC
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Scale: 1/72
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Price: £11.95
by the US Navy's P-3 Orions. Price: £11.95 Wing Tucson, Arizona.
• OH-6A Artillery Aviation ‘Red Available from: • F-100F Misty FAC 37th Tactical
Legs’ 4th Infantry Division, The Fantasy Printshop, Available from: Fighter Wing, Phu Cat, South
Phu Cat, Vietnam 1970. www. fantasyprintshop.co.uk The Fantasy Printshop, Vietnam.
www. fantasyprintshop.co.uk • KC-130J VMGR-352, 2007.
multi-section tyres for better tread accuracy, we're treated to a detailed breech mechanism, a one-piece,
Item no: L3508
patterns all feature. There's even a hollow plastic gun barrel, radio gear and very fine on-vehicle tools.
framed trailer in which ammo boxes Scale: 1/35 There's also a 20-part, photo-etched brass fret. Decal options are for
and supplies (not included) can be Price: £28.99 desert machines, and comprise:
By: MiniArt
PRODUCT SPEC
placed. Two markings options cover: Available from: • C Squadron, 40th RTR, 23rd
• Panzergrenadier-Division The Airbrush Company, Armoured Brigade, July 1942 Item no: 35096
Grossdeutschland www.airbrushes.com • C Squadron, 23rd Armoured Scale: 1/35
• 24. Panzerdivision Brigade, December 1941
Price: £32.99
• A Squadron HQ, 50th RTR, 23rd
Armoured Brigade, 1942 Available from:
NEMESIS OF PANTHERS AND TIGERS • Regimental HQ, 23rd Armoured Creative Models,
Brigade, Spring 1942 www.creativemodels.co.uk
Sherman Firefly
Small-scale armour is growing in popularity, and Armourfast
models offer great value with two kits in the box. Initially aimed at
war-gamers, the parts count is
By: Armourfast
PRODUCT SPEC
PRODUCT SPEC
is a quick-but-fun build and a good By: ICM detector and the last hunched
PRODUCT SPEC
subject for maritime modellers. over two mines. The troops are in Item no: 35083
Item no: S.007
The 37 parts on a single, grey sprue typical British short-jacket battle Scale: 1/35
include a display stand, with paint Scale: 1/72 dress, and 66 parts include rifles,
Price: £8.50
references from the Model Master Price: £13.99 webbing pouches, tools and a
range and instructions giving useful mine warning sign. A superb set Available from:
Available from: Creative Models,
side and top views. Decals comprise: for breathing life into vignettes
Creative Models, www.creativemodels.co.uk
• U-5365, Baltic Sea, May 1945 or diorama projects.
www.creativemodels.co.uk
• Number unknown, Kiel, 1945
INSURGENT STEALTH
READY FOR DANGER
Build instructions are on the box art is depicted kneeling while By: Masterbox
PRODUCT SPEC
box with figure photos showing Item no: MB3575 peering around a building corner.
Item no: MB3576
part numbers, but no other paint Scale: 1/35 With 34 parts, all are well-
references. Weaponry includes considered poses, and the figures, Scale: 1/35
Price: £8.99
M16A2, M4A1 and M16A4 variants bedecked with webbing, offer Price: £8.99
(one with Picatinny rail), and the Available from: great potential for some
Available from:
redoubtable Squad Automatic Creative Models, adventurous painting. These
Creative Models,
Weapon (SAW), in box-fed format. www.creativemodels.co.uk kits evoke a place of intense and
www.creativemodels.co.uk
deadly expectation.
Ilyushin Sturmovik
Airfix is bringing back a lot of 'golden oldies', and this one comes with
SU-25K Frogfoot Limited Edition a greatly improved decal sheet.
Yet another KP/OEZ mould gets the lavish Eduard treatment, and this The 60-part kit captures the
By: Airfix
PRODUCT SPEC
time it’s that Cold War stalwart, the Frogfoot. As well as the medium grey 'functional-look' well, but would
kit parts, which have stood the test of time well and offer some finely benefit from a light sanding to Item no: A02013
engraved panel lines, one can expect a small etched-metal fret, tape masks reduce the overscale rivets, and Scale: 1/72
and three bags of resin items. The latter includes a stunning K36 ejection cleaning-up of the smaller parts. Price: £5.99
seat from the manufacturer’s ‘Brassin’ range, which can also be found in • 233rd Guards Assualt Regiment,
Available from:
Eduard’s limited edition 1/48 Fitter kit. Weapons consist of dumb bombs, VVS, 1944-45.
R-60 (AA-8 Aphid) missiles and 80mm rocket pods. The instruction sheet is • Monogolian People's Air Force, Airfix, www.airfix.com
easy to read and the decal sheet is generous, with six interesting options: late 1940s.
• ‘Red 16’, 160th UAP, Russian Naval Aviation, Borisoglebsk AB,
Summer 2000.
• ‘Red 25’, 368th OShAP, Soviet AF,
By: Eduard
NEW STARFIGHTER RELEASE
PRODUCT SPEC
of the kit shows, but it is nothing • RF-104G, 132 Gruppo, 'Grappa', By: Italeri
PRODUCT SPEC
PRODUCT SPEC
Solomons, May 1943. Item no: 61108 • ‘Lonesome Polecat’, Lt Bill Skinner,
Item no: 60320**11000
• Iwakuni Naval Air Group, Scale: 1/48 308th FS, 31st FG, 15th AF, USAAF,
Yamaguchi Prefecture, Autumn Castel Volturno, Italy, Feb. 1944. Scale: 1/32
Price: £34.99
1943. • ‘Grey Nurse’, Wg Cdr ‘Bobby’ Price: £115
Available from:
• Major Saburo Shindo, 582nd Gibbes, No. 80 Wing RAAF, Morotai
The Hobby Company, Available from:
Naval Air group, Bougainville, Island, Dutch East Indies, 1945.
www.hobbyco.net The Hobby Company,
June 1943 . • AN-J, No.417 Sqn RCAF, Marcianise,
www.hobbyco.net
Italy, January 1944.
• F-111E 20th TFW, RAF Upper By: Italeri an excellent 1/72 Buccaneer.
PRODUCT SPEC
PRODUCT SPEC
well as two shades of Desert
Item no: CS 22 By: MIG productions
PRODUCT SPEC
Storm Sand and the standard Item no: 3026, 28, 29, 40
Scale: N/A NATO green and grey. Item no: Various item nos.
Scale: N/A
Price: £15.59 Scale: N/A
By: Lifecolor Price: £7.50 each
PRODUCT SPEC
PRODUCT SPEC
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Trevor Snowden was known for many years as ‘Mr Airfix’. He recalls his
career, in which he overcame the challenges of two-ton models and
demanding kit-builders to see in the dawn of the computer design era
I
started work for Humbrol knew of Airfix, and I replied that I were moulds to make over 600 Goshawk 1988). It was a steep
in late 1983 as Research and had made their models as a boy. I kits, from the small Series One to learning curve! As the years went
Development (R&D) Engineer was then asked what my position giant models measuring 1115mm by I got more involved in the
in the airbush section of was in the company, before being x 760mm x 460mm (FW 190 @ hobby and my love for Airfix – it
the business, designing and told that I was now R&D Engineer 1/24 scale ) and weighing in at became a personal crusade to
manufacturing products, until Airfix and not to expect a rise as over 2 tons. It was frightening. do the very best I could with the
1986, when Humbrol, which was none was forthcoming. This was They were so complex and resources available.
owned by Borden, an American only one of JMP’s little jokes (he my working life in injection Airfix has gone through highs
multi-national Company, had a wicked sense of humour – moulding had been engineering and lows over its decades of
purchased Airfix from General ‘Grim Jim’ we called him) – I did small components. Also, I was kit production. At one point it
Mills, which had owned the brand receive a small increase. accustomed to balanced runner looked like the iconic brand might
since 1981. I came out of his office wondering systems, which do not exist in not survive, but the acquisition
The first time I was aware of the what on earth had landed in my kit moulds. Bits seemed to be by Hornby in 2006 brought
purchase was when I was called lap, but I found out the next day, everywhere, but as the years investment and imagination that
to the boss’s office, Mr James M when we flew to Calais to inspect went by I learned the ‘black arts’ I could only ever dream about
Paterson (JMP). He asked what I the moulds at Meccano. There of placing the parts. when I first started. And the
The first kit we modified was a advent of 3D computer-aided
shock: the E.E. Lightning F.1A, design meant it was no longer
converted to an F.3. A tail fin and me with my old drawing board
two Red Top missiles were the and a battered ruler. Now there
only new parts; in my ignorance I is an amazing team of designers
hadn't realised than it had no gun producing the new generation of
ports and the cable ducts were great kits.
longer. The modellers pilloried I consider myself very lucky – it
us for the kit and rightly so. Over has been an honour to work for
the years the odd model would Airfix and I've made many friends
appear in the catalogue but never over the years. I now look forward
be produced because, when I to my retirement and – like other
looked into it, the modification modellers – using up some of that
was too complex ( i.e. T-45 ‘loft insulation’! ❚