Technical Seminar

on
Threads & Applications
 Coats Holdings, UK

ƒ A multinational company - established in 1824

and it is headquarters in the UK
ƒ World leader in the manufacture and distribution
of:
¾ Sewing & Embroidery threads (Industrial &
Domestic)
¾ Consumer crafts products
ƒ World No. 2 zip fastener company (Opti)
ƒ 30,000 employees
ƒ Operations in 66 countries worldwide
Global Presence
 Coats India

ƒ Coats India – India’s largest manufacturer & marketer of

sewing threads
ƒ Other products,
¾ Zippers – Opti
¾ Needles - Organ ( Japan)
ƒ 2006 turnover of approximately 750 crores.
ƒ Manufacturing units in 7 locations countrywide
ƒ 25 branches across India
ƒ Employee strength of around 5000
Coats
 ab
Contents

¾ Thread Technology
¾ Thread application
¾ Needles

ST03 – CLT01
 ab Thread Technology

1. Fiber & Thread classification

2. Thread manufacturing
3. Numbering systems
4. Thread properties

ST03 – CLT02
 Fibre Classification
Fiber – A hair like substance which is the basic element in textiles.

Natural Manmade

Vegetable Animal Mineral Regenerated Synthetics

cotton wool asbestos rayon

Inorganic Organic
glass

polypropylene polyvinyl polyamide polyester

 Thread classification
1. By substrate 3. By finish
• Cotton • Soft
• Polyester • Mercerised
• Nylon • Bonded
• Rayon • Unbonded
2. By construction 4. By application
• Staple spun • General sewing
• Continuous Filament • Embroidery
• Mono & Multi • Specialty applications as
Filament blind hem, button shanking
• Texturised etc.
• Air entangled
• Core spun
 Thread types

Continuous
Corespun Monofilament
filament
(3 ply)
(single)

Staple Continuous
spun Tri-lobal filament
(3 ply) filament (3 ply)

Continuous
Textured Air jet filament
(2 ply) textured (3 ply bonded)
 Construction – Staple spun

ƒ Made out of short fibers - spun together

ƒ Normally cotton and polyester staple fibers
for threads
ƒ Hairy surface texture
ƒ Gives a soft feel
ƒ Better sewability

Coats Brands : Astra, Dymax, Chain etc.

 Construction – C.Filament

ƒ Continuous filaments are spun together.

ƒ Normally synthetics as polyester, nylon etc.
ƒ Regularity in filament cross section as it can
be controlled.
ƒ Slippery in nature
ƒ Higher strength

Coats Brands : Nylbond, Gral, Gramax, Sylko etc.

 Construction - Corespun
ƒ Combination of filament and fiber
ƒ Has a filament at the core and fibers
wrapped around
ƒ Combines the physical properties of a
synthetic polyester filament (strength,
elongation, low shrinkage) with the aesthetic
properties of a staple cotton or polyester wrap
(softness, appearance, heat protection).

Coats Brands : Epic, Dualduty, Epic supermax etc

 Construction – Textured
ƒ Texturing is the process where continuous
filament fibres are entangled by various
mechanical methods which impart softness
and bulk.
ƒ Polyester or nylon
ƒ Market Terminology
Fluff thread
Bulky thread
Wooly thread

Coats Brands : Gramax & Seamsoft etc.

 Construction – Trilobal
ƒ Filaments with triangular cross section
instead of regular rounder cross section
ƒ Basically to improve the luster
ƒ Mainly used for embroidery

Coats Brand : Sylko

 Coats - Thread Substrates
 Poly/Cot Core spun - Dual duty
 Poly/Poly Core spun - Epic / Epic Supermax
 Staple spun polyester - Astra
 C.F. Polyester - Gral
 C.F. Nylon - 6,6 & 6 - Aptan / Aquil
 C.F. Polyester - Trilobal - Sylko
 C.F. Polyester - Textured - Gramax
 C.F Polyester - Micro Denier Textured - Seamsoft
 C.F. Rayon - Red Heart
 Cotton - Chain / Dymax
ab Poly/Cot Core spun
Applications by thread types
- Heavy wash / Rugged look / High ironing temperature/ High color
fastness.

Poly/Poly Core spun

- Lycra blends / High stretch / Improved seam strength

Staple spun polyester

- Common apparel applications

C.F. Polyester
- Higher strength / Blind hem / Beed attach

C.F. Polyester – Trilobal

- Shiny embroidery / Heavy applications / Longer life

C.F. Polyester – Textured

Looper applications / next to skin seams / Inner & Baby wear
 Applications by thread types

C.F Polyester - Micro Denier Textured

Looper applications / next to skin seams / Inner & Baby wear

C.F. Rayon
Embroidery

Mercerised Cotton
General sewing / Overdye / Overall embroidery

Polypoly – Fusible
Button attach

Polybutylene terepthalate
High elasticity / Sportswear / Swimwear / Underwear
 ab

Thread Manufacture

ST03 – CLT02
 Thread Manufacture

SPINNING TWISTING DYEING

FINISHING
THREAD
ab ƒ Spinning
Thread Manufacturing

ƒProcess of converting the fiber or filaments into a continuous strand

called yarn.
ƒ Twisting
ƒ Two or more number of yarns are twisted together.
ƒ No of plies are decided
“ Grey Thread “
ƒ Dyeing
ƒ Process of coloring the material
ƒ Finishing
ƒSurface finish given to the thread to make it compatible for the
sewing conditions
ƒ Packing and labeling
ab
Spinning

- Continuous filaments
- Staple spun
 Manufacture of Continuous filaments
 A process called melt spinning
y polymer chips are liquified & extruded through spinerettes
y the no. of holes in the spinerette determines the number of multi filaments
y the diameter of the spinerette determines the count of the multifilament yarn.
 Received by Coats in the bobbin make up & then processed further as
filament threads.

@
 Manufacture of Staple Spun Polyester
 CF Yarns manufactured by the melt spinning process are :
y stretched - to control elongation
y crimped - to increase surface area
y cut at a predetermined length - staples
Received by Coats in bale form and then processed further as SSP
threads

@
 Spinning - SSP

Opening Card ing Drawing

Autoconing
/ Yarn Ring Roving
Splicing Spinning
@
Twisting
 Twist Direction

Twist is defined as the number of turns inserted per meter (TPM) in

a yarn or a thread.
ƒ If the twist is too low; the yarns may fray and break.
ƒ If the twist is too high; the yarns may snarl or loop resulting in thread breaks.
ƒ Twist balance therefore is of critical importance for a threads sewing
performance

S twist is also known as Z twist is also known as

anti-clockwise or Right twist clockwise or Left twist
 Thread Construction

S S
ƒ Plied Threads
ƒ 2, 3, or 4 single yarns are twisted
together to form a 2, 3, or 4 ply thread
ƒ only 1 thread twisting operation
Z Z
 Thread Construction

ƒ Corded Threads
ƒ Plied threads are twisted together
to form a corded thread
ƒ 2 or more thread twisting operations
Dyeing
 Dyeing

ƒ Open vessel (or) Hank dyeing

- Cotton, Rayon
ƒ Closed vessel (or) HPHT ( High Pressure / High Temperature )
Dyeing
- Polyester, Nylon
Hank Dyeing - Cotton
Dyeing - Cotton
Closed Vessel Dyeing
Closed Vessel Dyeing - SSP
 Dyestuff

Non fast Fast

Cotton Direct, Reactive Vat, Azoic, Pthalogen
PCC (soft) Disperse (core) Vat (cover)
PCC (glace) Disperse (core)
Reactive (cover)
C.F.Polyester Disperse
SSP Disperse
PPC Disperse
C.F.Nylon Nylosan
Acid
Reactive
ab

Yarn Count Systems

ab What is yarn numbering ?
Yarn Numbering systems

ƒ Thread – Length & thickness.

ƒ Thickness to be defined with a precise measurement.
ƒ Possible by relating the weight and length.

ƒ Lets see the below two women.

Women A Women B

170 Cms 170 Cms

40 Kgs 50 Kgs
ab Yarn Numbering systems
Now lets see the below two women.

Women A Women B

50 Kgs 50 Kgs

180 Cms 170 Cms

 Yarn Count Systems

Fixed Weight Fixed Length

Number English Number Metric Denier Tex Dtex

( Ne ) ( Nm )
Ne = no of hanks of 840 yds/lb Denier = weight in grams of 9000 mts
Nm = no of hanks of 1000 mts/kg Tex = weight in grams of 1000 mts
Dtex = weight in grams of 10000mts

Higher the no. finer the yarn Higher the no. coarser the yarn
 Ne - Number English

Ne 5

X 840 yds = 4200 y/lb

Ne 10

X 840 yds = 8400 y/lb

 Nm - Number Metric

Nm 5

X 1000 m = 5000 m/kg

Nm 10

X 1000 m = 10000 m/kg

ab Ticket Numbers
ƒ Just a reference number given by a sewing thread
manufacturer for a particular thread size.
ƒ Not a technical number
ƒ Varies from place to place / manufacturer to manufacturer
ƒ Similar to indirect numbering system

ƒHigher the number – Finer the thread

ƒLower the number – Thicker the thread
Thread properties
 Physical Properties of Fibres

Nylon Polyester Acrylic P. P Rayon Cotton

Tenacity E E P E S S
Wet strength E E F E P G
Abrasion resistance G G P S P P
Heat resistance G G S P E E
Elastic recovery E G G G G S
Resistance to sunlight S G E F P P

Resistance to acid P G G G P P
Resistance to alkali E S S G S G
Resistance to rot E E E E P P

E = excellent , G = good , S = satisfactory , F = fair , P = poor.

@
 Tenacity

Defined as the strength to fineness ratio.

Avg. Strength in Gms.

Grist inTex.

Expressed as gms/ Tex.

 Tenacity

70
67
60
60

50
48
44
40
36
30

25
20 22

15
10
C.F. Rayon Mecer. cotton Core spun C.F. Poly
Soft cotton SSP CFN 6 CFN 6,6
 ab

Thread application

ST06 – CLT02
 Contents

1. Stitches
2. Seams
3. Seam properties
4. Quality issues & remedies
 Thread application
Woven fabrics:

ƒ Warp & weft yarns - Interlaced.

ƒ Normally finer to thicker threads

Knitted fabrics:

ƒ Wales and coarse - Interlooped.

ƒ Normally not thicker threads
 Product introduction
Seam properties of a garment depends on,

1. Fabric type
2. Seam type
3. Stitch type
4. Thread type
5. Wash

¾ Thread is not the only factor significant in making good

stitches & seams !
¾ Fabric properties can impact as well !
 Product introduction
Some of significant fabric properties are,,

1. Strength – Seam strength.

2. Cover factor - Seam appearance
3. Finish - Seam appearance
4. Shrinkage - Seam appearance
5. Texture - Seam appearance
6. Drapability - Seam appearance
7. Yarn slippage strength - Seam appearance & strength
8. Elasticity / Elasticity - Seam appearance & strength

Thread's performance in seam appearance is influenced by

fabric properties as well !
 Stitches

ST06 – CLT02
 Stitches
A stitch is,,,
,,,,a loop structure of threads.

Stitching is,,,
,,, a series of stitches.

Sewing,,
,,,process of making stitching or seams.
 Stitch Types

Lockstitch Chainstitch

Oscillating shuttle Rotary hook

* Domestic * Industrial

Rotary looper Oscillating looper

* Button Stitching * 2T
- chain

Overlock
Coverseam
 Stitches
ƒ Classified by US Federal Standards
ƒ Based on common kinematic principle of stitch
construction.

1. Class 100 - Single thread chain stitch

2. Class 200 - Hand stitch - normally not sewing machine
3. Class 300 - Lock stitch - Hook & bobbin
4. Class 400 - Multi thread chain stitch - Looper
5. Class 500 - Overedge and safety stitch
6. Class 600 - Cover stitch - Similar to 400, but with top cover
 Stitch Type 101
 S/T C/S has a needle thread & a blind
looper.
 Has good extention, but unravels
N
easily.
 Used for stitching feed bags, fertiliser

bags.
Single thread chainstitch buttonsew
machines also use this stitch.
Fusible threads are used to secure the
stitch
 Stitch Type 301

 2T L/S, has a needle thread and a bobbin

thread.
 Advantages

 Does not unravel easily, N

 Stitch is reversible

 Excellent seam security

 Disadvantages

 Poor extension. B

 Lower productivity

 Uses least amount of thread

 Stitch Type 304

 Has same benefits as 301

 Has better extension due to the zig
zag configuration.
 Used mostly on lingerie , foundation
wear and underwear, where a secure
seam with good extension is
required.

ZIG ZAG ONE STEP

LOCKSTITCH
Stitch Type 304
 Stitch Type 401
 2T C/S has one needle thread & one
looper thread.
 Needle thread loop is interconnected
with two loops of one under thread
 Advantages
N
 Higher seam strength

 Higher seam stretch

 Higher productivity L
 Disadvantages

 Seam runback (unraveling)

 Seam security not as good as lock

stitch
 Increased bulk under the seam
Stitch Type 404

ZIG ZAG TWO THREAD

CHAINSTITCH
 Stitch Type 406
 Cover seam stitch, has 2 needle and
1 looper thread.
 Excellent extension, easy to unravel
N1
 Used for :
 T shirts/knits sleeves and bottom N2
hems.
 stitching of belt loops in jeans &
trousers.
L
 Gives very good extension, and is
mostly used to cover a raw edge in
the fabric after the fabric has been
hemmed etc.
 Stitch Type 407
N1
N2

N3

L
 Stitch Type 504
 3 T O/L, has 1 needle thread and 2
looper threads.
N
 Has excellent extension and does

not unravel easily.

L1
 Used for

 serging to stop fabric fraying,

L2
 joining 2 or more plies together.

 Disadvantages

 Not a tight stitch

 Seam security could be a

problem.
 Bulky seams

 Seam grinning
 Stitch Type 512
 4T O/L (or) Mock safety stitch, has 2
needle and 2 looper threads
N1
 Very good extention, will not unravel

easy. N2
 Applications
L1
 Side seams & join panels

 Attach sleeves, join shoulders L2

etc. on knitted fabrics garments
 Side seams, join panels, etc. on
swimwear, aerobic wear & cycle
pants etc.
 Secure seam that needs very
good extension.
 512 is more secure than 504 (3
thread overlock) but less secure than
516 (5 thread safety stitch)
Stitch Type 514

N1

N2

L1

L2
Stitch Type 514
 Stitch Type 516
 5 T O/L (or) safetystitch, has 2 needle
threads and 3 looper threads.
N1
 Has two stitch types in one, 504 and
401. L1
 Good extention, very strong. If one fails
N2
the other can absorb the strain
 Used for L2
 joining panels where seam stretch is
L3
critical
 or joining seams where security of
seam is important.
 High seam elasticity
 Stitch Type 602
 4T F/L - Top and Bottom cover seam S
stitch, has 2 needle, 1 looper and 1
spreader thread. N1

 Used : N2
as a stitch to cover the joint between
binding and the garment (necks of
knitts) L

as a decorative stitch on night gowns &

sweat shirts
for stitching legs of aerobic wear and
straps on swimwear.
to stitch/attach binding to knitted night
gowns. Sweat shirts etc.
 Has excellent extension, when a small
stitch is used excellent seam cover is
achieved.
 Stitch Type 605
S
N1
 Utilizes 3 needle threads, one looper
and one cover thread. N2

 Used in knitwear, lingerie & under N3

garments.
 High seam elasticity.

 Flat, comfortable seams - ideal for L

'next to skin' sewing applications.
 Can also be used as a decorative
seam
 Very high thread consumption.
Stitch Type 607
S

N1
N2
N3
N4

L
 Needle/ Looper/ Spreader Configuration.
Stitch Type Needles Bobbins Loopers Spreaders

Lock stitch 301 1 1

1T Chain stitch 101 1 (1)
2T Chain stitch 401 1 1
3T Over lock 504 1 2
4T Mock safety stitch 512 2 2
4T Over lock 514 2 2
5T Safety stitch 516 2 3
3T Cover seam 406 2 1
4T Cover seam 407 3 1
4T Cover seam 602 2 1 1
5T Cover seam 605 3 1 1
6T Cover seam 607 4 1 1
 Thread consumption
Thread consumption could be,

1. Amount of thread present in a given garment.

2. Amount of thread consumed while making one
garment
3. Amount of thread required to complete a given
order quantity
 Thread consumption
Affected by,

1. Stitch type
2. Seam type
3. Material thickness
4. No of fabric plies
5. Construction
6. Machine type - UBT
7. Operator efficiency
8. SPI
 Thread consumption
1. Actual amount of thread
- by ripping & measuring the actual amount of thread in a
garment
2. Thread consumption ratios.
- standard consumption ratios
3. Thread consumption meters
- electronic devices with digital meters
4. Coats seam works.
- new generation software
ab

Seam Types

ST06 – CLT03
 Introduction to Seams
Seam - Application of a series of stitches or stitch types to one
or several layers of material.
 8 classes of seams are defined in the ISO classification.
 Seams are described as :
y flat
y superimposed
y lapped
y bound
y ornamental
A seam is loadbearing and should be similar in physical
properties to the material being sewn.
 Flat Seams
In these seams, sometimes called Butt
Seams, two fabric edges, flat or folded,
are brought together and oversewn
with a zig-zag lockstitch, chainstitch or
covering stitch (Class 600).

The purpose is to produce a join where

no extra thickness of fabric can be
tolerated at the seam, as in underwear
or in foundation garments.

The looper thread(s) must be soft, yet

strong and the cover thread may be
decorative as well as strong.
 Superimposed Seams

These generally start with two or

more pieces of material
superimposed over each other and
joined near an edge, with one or
more rows of stitches. There are
various types of seams within the SS
class.

A superimposed seam can be sewn

with a stitch 301 or 401 to create a
simple seam. The same seam type
can also be sewn with stitch class
500 (Overedge stitch) or Combination
stitches (i.e. stitch class 516) to
create neat load bearing seams for
lingerie, shirts, etc.
 Lapped Seams
• Two or more plies of material are lapped (i.e.
with edges overlapped, plain, or folded) and
joined with one or more rows of stitches.
• French seaming involves 2 stitching
operations with an intervening folding
operation - a flat, folded seam with only one
row of stitching visible on the top surface,
commonly used for rainwear.
 Lapped Seams
• The Lap Felled type, involves only one
stitching operation - a strong seam with
fabric edges protected from fraying.
• Commonly used for making up jeans
or similar garments.
 Bound Seams

These are formed by folding a binding strip

over the edge of the plies of material and
joining both edges of the binding to the
material with one or more rows of stitching.
This produces a neat edge on a seam
exposed to view or to wear.
 Ornamental Seams
A series of stitches along a straight or
curved line or following an ornamental
design, on a single ply of material.

More complex types include various

forms of piping, producing a raised line
along the fabric surface.
ab Edge Finishing Stitching

Finishing the edge of a single ply of material

by folding it or covering it with a stitch.

The simplest of these operations is Serging,

Type 6.01.01, in which a cut edge of a single
ply is reinforced by overedge stitching to
neaten and prevent fraying Includes other
popular methods of producing a neat edge
like hemming and Blind Stitch hemming.
Seam Properties
 Seam Properties

1. Seam strength
2. Seam elongation
3. Seam durability
4. Seam slippage
5. Seam shrinkage
6. Seam appearance
 Seam Strength
Depends on various factors as,
y Thread strength
The seam is sewn at right angles
y Stitch type to the direction of load.
y Stitch rating
y Seam type
y Fabric type
y Needle size & point

Seam strength = SPI X STS X 1.5 - lockstitch

SPI X STS X 1.7 - chainstitch
e.g.
A seam with a density of 16 spi & a thread with 1100 gms
STS

seam strength for L/S = 16 X 1100 X 1.5 = 26,400 gms.

= 26. 4 kgs
seam strength for C/S = 16 X 1100 X 1.7 = 29,920 gms.
= 29. 9 kgs
 Seam Strength
ƒ Seam Type
ƒ A lap felled seam is the strongest of all seam types because the
fabric is lapped upon itself and shares the stress load along with
the thread.

ƒA butt seam is designed to maintain a flat profile, but in this type

seam the thread bears the entire load of stress in the seam.

ƒ Stitch Type
ƒThe lockstitch is the most common stitch used, but the most easily
damaged.
ƒChain and overedge stitches offer more extensibility, which leads to
more resistance to stress.

ƒ Stitch Density
ƒ Seam strength is usually proportional to stitch density.
ƒIncreasing stitches per inch gives a stronger seam up to a point.
Sometimes it is more economical to use a stronger thread.
 Seam Stretch
Depends on various factors as,
The seam is sewn parallel to
y Thread extensibility the direction of load.
y Fabric extensibility
y Stitch type
y Stitch length / rating
y Fabric cut direction

Seam stretch is expressed as a % .

 Seam Durability
Defined as the ability of a seam to withstand
abrasion during :
y Distress garment washes like stone, sand, golf ball etc.
y Normal machine wash
y Day to day wear & tear of a garment

Durability factor for various substrates :

y Rayon : 1
y Cotton : 3
y SSP : 12
y Core spun : 30
y CF Nylon : 150
 Seam Slippage
ƒ Purely a fabric related issue.
ƒ Happens mainly with slippery fabric yarns & in
fine fabrics
ƒ Can be controlled by,
y Seam type variations as lap felled seam.
y Additional support by the usage of fusible strips
y By reducing the stitch density
 Seam Shrinkage
ƒ Can happen due to various reasons as fabric,
feeding etc.
ƒ Thread shrinkage is expressed as %.
ƒ Normally threads with lower shrinkage gives
better seam results.
ƒ Thread shrinkage can be,
ƒ Dry shrinkage – Synthetic threads as polypoly & spun
poly.
ƒWet shrinkage – Cotton threads.
Seam quality issues & Solutions
 Seam quality issues
1. Puckering
2. Seam grin
3. Needle holes
4. Skipped stitches
5. Unbalanced stitches
6. Uneven SPI
 Seam Pucker

 Tension pucker
 Feed pucker
 Shrinkage pucker
 Inherent pucker
 Fabric flagging
 Tension Pucker
ƒ Caused by high thread tension during sewing.
ƒ More pronounced when synthetic threads are
used.
ƒ These threads on account of high stretch
properties elongate more during sewing.
ƒ After sewing the threads recover from the stretched
state pulling the fabric with it.
Remedy:
Thread tensions have to be kept as
low as possible.
 Feed Pucker
ƒ Encountered when sewing very fine fabrics.
ƒ The plies of fabric tend to slip over each other
resulting in uneven feed leading to pucker.
Remedy :
 Opting for advanced types of feed
systems like compound or unison feed.
 Puller feed is more cost effective.
 Shrinkage Pucker
 Wash pucker - during the wash process the thread in the seam
shrinks, pulling the fabric with it. More so when using cotton
threads.
 Ironing pucker - normally happens when synthetic threads are
used. The heat destabilises the molecular structure of the
thread causing it to contract.
Remedy
 Choosing threads with low shrinkage properties.
 Inherent Pucker
ƒ Normally seen when sewing densely woven materials.
ƒ This occurs because the needle forcibly displaces the
warp & weft ends of the dense weave to a significant
extent.
ƒ These displaced ends are pushed upwards to the
surface of the fabric and appear as pucker.
ƒ This is also know as 'STRUCTURAL JAMMING'

Remedy
 Opting for finer needles & threads
 Opt for a chain stitch in place of a lock
stitch
 Reduce stitch density

 Biased stitching
 Fabric Flagging

ƒ A machine related issue

ƒ the throat plate aperture enlarges due to wear & tear
ƒ while sewing the needle pushes the fabric through the
aperture before penetrating the fabric
ƒ this can also happen when the needle size (thickness) is
changed and if the throat plate is not changed accordingly.

Remedy
 throat plates must be changed at regular intervals
after checking for wear & tear
 throat plates must be changed in accordance with the
needle size even if there are no signs of wear & tear.

Needle Size - Nm 60 65 70 80 90 100 110 120

Throat plate - Nm 100 120 120 140 160 160 200 200
aperture size
 Seam Grin
ƒ When two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the
seam, a gap is revealed between the two pieces of fabric
revealing the thread in this gap.

ƒ Corrective actions
 Increase stitching tensions
 Use a higher stitch rating
 Needle holes
ƒ Happens due to
ƒ Fabric yarn cut by needle point
ƒ Heavy displacement of fabric yarns by the needle
ƒ Heavy displacement of fabric yarns by the stitch
tension

ƒ Any wet treatment increases the above impact

ƒ Critical factors are,

ƒ Needle size
ƒ Thread size
ƒ Fabric type
ƒ Stitch type
 Needle holes
ƒ Identification of the cause and its remedy is more
important.
ab Skipped Stitches
Causes Solutions
Check machines clearances and timing.
Failure of hook, looper, or needle to enter
Check needle is inserted and aligned correctly
the thread loop at correct time
Use needle with deeper scarf.
Change needle size/style
Thread loop failure
Check thread take-up and check loop formation

Flagging of fabric due to poor presser foot Adjust presser foot pressure
control or too large a throat plate hole Change throatplate to match needle

Use a reinforced needle

Needle deflections or bent needles
Check needle clearance and reset needle guard

Incorrect sewing tension in needle or under

Adjust thread tension
thread
Check loop formation
Poor loop formation Verify thread selection
Check thread twist and thickness
ab Staggered Stitches
Causes Solutions
Increase needle size
Needle vibrating or deflecting
Use reinforced needle

Incorrect or blunt needle point Change needle

Incorrect needle-to-thread size relationship Change needle thread size to appropriate size

Feed dog sways Tighten feed dog

Adjust presser foot pressure

Poor fabric control and presser foot bounce
Change feed mechanism
ab Unbalanced or Variable Stitches

Causes Solutions
Adjust top or bottom thread tension as
Incorrect sewing tensions
necessary for balanced stitches

Incorrect threading Check for correct thread path

Polish bobbin case and thread contact surfaces

Needle thread snagging on bobbin case or
positioning finger
Variable thread tension
Reset positioning finger
Change throatplate to match needle
Check for correct thread path
Make sure check spring is properly set
Check thread lube consistency
ab Variable Stitch Density
Causes Solutions
Increase presser foot pressure
Poor fabric feed control
Change to a more positive feed mechanism
ab

Needles

ST06 – CLT04
 Parts of a Needle

BUTT

SHANK

SHOULDER

BLADE
SHORT GROOVE

LONG GROOVE

SCARF

EYE

POINT
 Needle Classification

 Point - type of fabric

 Size - no. of fabric plies
 System - machine type
 Needle Points

Round points Cutting points

Set Ball

Wedge Spear Triangular Square

SPI/SET (R) POINT
KNITTED FABRIC
SPI/SET (R) POINT
KNITTED FABRIC
SPI/SET (R) POINT
KNITTED FABRIC
SPI/SET (R) POINT
KNITTED FABRIC
SPI/SET (R) POINT
KNITTED FABRIC
SPI/SET (R) POINT
KNITTED FABRIC
SPI/SET (R) POINT
KNITTED FABRIC
Round Points – Set
Round Points - Ball
 Cutting Points - Wedge

P LR S LL
 Cutting Points - Spear

VR VL DI D
 Needle Sizes

Singer -- 9 11 14 16 18
Metric (Nm) -- 65 75 90 100 110

65 = 0.65 mm
100
 Needles- Comparative Sizes

ƒ
Needle - Temperature Zones
 Needle Systems
Operation System Scarf type Usage

Lockstitch DB X 1 Standard Normal Lockstitch

DB X K5 " CMHE
DP X 5 " Buttonholing
DP X 17 " Normal Lockstitch

Overlock DC X 1 " Normal Overlock

DC X 27 Pontoon Reduces Skip stitches

Chainstitch DV X 1 None Twin needle Chainstitch

DV X 43 " 2 - 3 needle Flatlock
UY128GAS Standard "
TQ X 1 " Button attaching
TQ X 7 " "
@
a.bharathidasan@coats.com