V"-

Use your dictionary lu Uu Ull

1. aiter change improve 4. endless infinite boundless
2. apt appropriate suitable 5. even smooth level
3. big huge immense 6. link bind tie

3
Lesson 5
COTTON

Cotton is the backbone of the world’s textile industry/ 1'

> Like other fibres, cotton is essentialy cellulose. It is attached to the seeds
• plants of the Mallow family. In the;tropics, cotton plants may grow to a
light of 20 ft although the average height is between 4 and 6 ft.
■ Cotton picking is normally carried out by hand or by mechanical pickers '
iring the autumn. A^jhe bolls on a plant do not all mature at the same time, r J
>tton picking must be repeated several times before the crop is in. .
The main centres of cotton cultivation are: the USA, Russia, India, China,
exico, Brazil, Egypt and Turkey.
Cotton is strong, and is stronger when wet than it is when dry. It can with-
md repeated washings and is therefore ideal for household goods and gar-
ents. It can be dyed easily and the colours will often remain fast in repeated
things and with prolonged wear.Jt goes into boots and shoes, carpets and
 I I"'""-/ ■—T -
adcqu.ii* Mrength, flexibility or pliability, cohesiveness or spinning quality.
лнЈ uniformity. Secondary properties are those that are desirable bui m>i
o*cntia£ such as specific gravity, luster, moisture regain, elastic recovery,
elongation, thermal behavior, resistance to either biological organisms or to
chemicals and other environment conditions.
(from TEXTILE SCIENCE by
Marjory L. Joseph)

IDIOMS AND PHRASES

to bear no resemblance - to have no likeness

They can be made from chemicals that bear no resemblance to fibrous form.

EXERCISES
I Choos« from the words or phrases on the right-hand side the one that
corresponds in meaning to the word on the tell:
utilize special quality
synthesize the quality of being bent without being
broken
property that may be used or obtained
luster combine by a process of synthesis
uniformity make use of
flexibility sameness, similarity
:gloss, brilliance
available a point of likeness or similanry
Writ, sentences of your awn using ,h« above words
given on the left-hand side)

D Answer (be following questions:

i Whet is the onpn of the fibers'ivatlibie
on today's market'’ 4
Wantages of natural fibers’
 1 .
Г' \ ‘
*lC/

Early in the twentieth century the first man-made fiber, rayon, became a \
ractical reality. Since the late 1930’s scientists have produced dozens of new-
ibrics. Great advances have been made in the textile industry and continued
.»search will meet the challenges of the 1970’s.

(shortened from TEXTILE SCIENCE

by Marjory L. Joseph)

DIOMS AND PHRASES

j 1 be composed of - to be made of
Fabric is composed of yams,
iber - American English spelling
] •XERCISES

* Give another word of phrase to repiace the words as they are used in
i the passage:
clothing, doth, to be composed of, manufacture, mill, textile, fasten and
employ
j v>!';
2 Comprehension
Л What did people use as their only clothing long ago? V
b. What fibers were used first in the manufacture of textiles? ^
] c. Who was the first to stan weaving? v
\У d. What caused great changes in the textile industry? 7'
. e. What are the late 30’s famous for?
j f. What do you think was the purpose of inventing man-made fibers?
П Make questions to whiclvthe following might be answers:
spinning, man-rnade fibers, plant, machine power, the Stone Age
J
•V After you have read the text, say (or write) something about:
- The Belgrade Textile industry
j
The Belgrade Textile Industry
The Belgrade Wool Combine manufactures woolen goods among other
things. Thanks to the quality and design of its woolen goods the Combine has
increased its exports, especially to Russia and Sweden.
The fabric manufactured by the Belgrade Cotton Mills are, for the most
part, exported to Russia, Iran, Iraq and Norway, Canada and the USA. Increa-
sed exports resulted from the reconstruction of the factory, modernization of
the production programme and the introduction of a whole new line of prod-
ucts made from pure cotton or synthetic fibres.
The largest producer of heavy ready-made clothing for men, women and
children is KLUZ. It has been quite a regular recipient of the Golden Doe
award given annually for the best ready-to-wear fashion.
Another large producer of ready-made clothing in Belgrade is BEKO
which has in recent years concentrated on manufacturing modem and com-
fortable clothing for young people.
Other important roles in textile production in Belgrade are played by
PARTIZANKA, TIZ and ZELENGORA.

(taken from BELGRADE IN THE WORLD)

Lesson 4
FIBER

\'.;r
All fibers available on today’s market come from natural vegetable, ani-
mal or mineral matter, or from manufacturing processes that utilize natural
fibrous materials or synthesize fibers from other chemicals. Textile fibers are"
found in natural sources such as seed pods or animal hair. They can be manu-
factured from natural fibrous materials or synthesized from chemicals that
bear no resemblance to fibrous forms. Despite the source, however, it is pos-
sible to identify certain qualities common to all fibers.

9
 Wool fibres differ in fineness and
length as well as in colour. Differences/
in lustre are also evident and impor-
tant. An important, unique property of
wool is its ability to migrate under
mechanical action in moist conditions
to form dense entanglements or felts.
The most important countries are Aus-
tralia, South Africa, New Zealand and
the South American countries as well
Cross-section of wool fibre as the United States and Russia.
I. medduila; 2. cortex; 3. membrane;
4. scales (taken from WOOL - An Introduction to
Its Properties, Varieties, Uses and
Production by W. J. Onions B. Sc., F.T. I.)

IDIOMS AND PHRASES

a range of - a series of
It has a range of uses.

EXERCISES

I Use a word from the text to complete the following sentences:

a. ... is the fibrous covering of the sheep.
b. Sheep are normally ... of their fleece every year.
c. Wool can also be pulled from the skins of their....
d. Wool is used for making clothes, furnishing fabrics,... and for
industrial... .
e. Differences in ... are also important.
f. Wool also has the ability ....

g. Which of the following statements are not true:

animals.
carpets and furnishing fabric >
 cellulose polyester
yam origin

IV Make up questions using the cues:

a. fabric - yams? e. lace - filament - knitted
fabric - use?
b. fibre - filament? f. woven fabric - knitted fabric
- difference.
c. yams - fibres? g- fibre - staple fibre?
d. braided fabric - knitted h. use - fibres - woven fabric?
fabric - difference?

•• %
Lesson
'Џ.
INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES

' Archeological evidence indicates that textiles were made thousands^,

years ago^/All early fibers were composed of plant or animal products. Wool,
flax, cotton and silk were most important and were employed most frequent-
ly. L^ter mineral matter in the form of rock asbestos was used.
1
' Spinning and weaving probably began during the Stone Ages. Early Stone
Age man made a covering for his body by wrapping animal furs around him-
self. As he learned how to fasten these skins together, clothing was madet It
seems likely that weaving was developed, as part of the process of interlacing
branches and leaves to construct shelters. Eventually man learned to make
yams and threads, and finally to manufacture cloth. f _
The Industrial Revolution of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries trans-
ferred the processing of fibers and the manufacture of fabrics from the home
or small cottage shop to the factory. As machine power replaced manpower,
the use ot cotton, wool, linen and silk increased.

7
 cellulose polyester
yam origin

IV Make up questions using the cues:

a. fabric - yams? e. lace - filament - knitted
fabric - use?
b. fibre - filament? f. woven fabric - knitted fabric
- difference.
c. yams - fibres? g- fibre - staple fibre?
d. braided fabric - knitted h. use - fibres - woven fabric?
fabric - difference?

•• %
Lesson
'Џ.
INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES

' Archeological evidence indicates that textiles were made thousands^,

years ago^/All early fibers were composed of plant or animal products. Wool,
flax, cotton and silk were most important and were employed most frequent-
ly. L^ter mineral matter in the form of rock asbestos was used.
1
' Spinning and weaving probably began during the Stone Ages. Early Stone
Age man made a covering for his body by wrapping animal furs around him-
self. As he learned how to fasten these skins together, clothing was madet It
seems likely that weaving was developed, as part of the process of interlacing
branches and leaves to construct shelters. Eventually man learned to make
yams and threads, and finally to manufacture cloth. f _
The Industrial Revolution of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries trans-
ferred the processing of fibers and the manufacture of fabrics from the home
or small cottage shop to the factory. As machine power replaced manpower,
the use ot cotton, wool, linen and silk increased.

7
 fibre dark in colour and difficult to bleach. The fibre is
trong and durable and therefore is used largely for making strings, cords and
opes.
(shortened from HANDBOOK OF
TEXTILE FIBRES by J. Gordon Cook)
j
I

I
4
'j

Lesson 16 j
WOOL j

■ Wool is one of the oldest and most,universally used textile fibres.

It is shorn or plucked from live sheep or lambs, or is pulled from the skins
>f their carcases. Produced in many parts of the world, and in many types, it
ins a wide range of uses in clothing, furnishing fabrics, carpets and for indus-
rial felts. Still coarser wool is used to fill mattresses.
curtains, clothing and hats. Heavy cotton yams and materials are all used for
industrial fabrics of all descriptions.
{shortened from HANDBOOK OF
TEXTILE FIBRES by J. Gordon Cook)

IDIOMS AND PHRASES

to be attached to - to be fastened to
Cotton is attached to the seeds of plants,
to carry out - to do
Cotton picking is carried out by hand,
to go into - to be used for
Cotton goes into boots and shoes,
fibre - British English spelling

EXERCISES
I Think of words that collocate with the following words:
plant height pickers
fibre fabrics picking cultivation

П Express the following using another word or phrase from the text:
a. ripe
b. the small object produced by a flowering plant
c. a person who picks cotton
d. grain
e. freed from water and moisture
f. resist
 ----------------
Leikovac Fairground

IV Discuss - Have you ever visited the Leskovac or any other textile
fair?
- What can we see at the fair?
- What are the advantages and disadvantages of such a
commercial fair?

Lesson 10
FABRIC
4

Fibers, yams and single fabrics are combined in many different ways to
produce fabrics available to the modem consumer. There are many methods of
 JV Д5к as many 4—

FIBER IDENTIFICATION
I'
I, * «: is not possible for the average consumer to identify fabrics by look or
» feel, yet fiber content is of great importance to the consumer. If you buy silk,
you want silk not acetate. Fiber identification is not a simple matter. Know-

[ ledge and skill are important. Even the simple burning tests are not always
reliable. In some cases laboratory facilities and expensive equipment are
required.
E ~ There are five relatively simple methods that may be used to identify fi-
I bers. They are: ;
1. A burning test
2. Microscopic examination (longitudinal and cross-section)
3. Solubility test in various reagents
j 4- Staining tests
* 5. Fiber density test
4 ' ®urn|n8 tests may give a clue to fiber type (i. e. natural or man-made
!T .r)- Microscopic examination and staining tests may help confirm identifi-
cation by burning. Solubility and fiber density tests are particularly necessary

J*
whe/one must separate the individual fibers used in a blend. However, in
some cases the use of the burning test, microscopic sltunmg. solubility and
fiber density tests are of a little value for fiber identification purposes
.. The use of an infrared spectrophotometer or gaschromatograph is the most
accurate method of identification.
(taken from MODERN TEXTILES
by Dorothy Siegest)

IDIOMS AND PHRASES

in some instances - in some cases

In some instances the use of these tests is not enough.

EXERCISES

I Choose the word on the left-hand side that has the same meaning as
the word or the definition on the right-hand side:
consumer make definite
confirm ordinary
facility being proved
skill a person who buys goods that he will use himself
clue skill, things that help one do something
average something that helps to solve a problem
identification the ability to do something
П Answer the following questions:

a. Why is i. necessary to do fiber identification tests?

b. What is needed for doing fiber identification tests?
c. Is it possible to verify the identification of a fit., k„ j
fiber by dom оп|
the fiber identification tests? S У one
d. What factors influence the choice of these tests?
i
1
fabric construct i>»n fabrics can be knitted, knotted and coiled from one
thiead,
I while plaitine iapestry and weaving employ two or more sets of threads.
{ Мапч • >| techniques tire still in use today, but the repertoire ol fabric ma-
nufacture has been enormously expanded by technology.
i-
I (taken from TEXTILE SCIENCE
by Marjory L. Joseph)
IDIOMS AND PHRASES
to join together - to combine in
Yarns can be joined together in many different

EXERCISES
Give other words or phrases for:
a. a manufactured assembly of fibers or yarns
b. a person who buys goods that he will use himself
c. a single jruiTi
d. wind or gather up a thread in a circle or ring
e. a fastening made in rope, cord, or string
f. a cloth with a picture or design woven in it, used to hang on a wall
g. the science which deals with industrial arts

II See if you can find out from the text...

a. what a fabric is
b. that a fabric can be made by using different techniques
c. something about the influence of modem technology upon fabric con-
struction
d. what methods of fabric construction can be used

III Read the texts - Netting and Crocheting - in order to get detailed
information about the way some beautiful fabrics are made^^^^'

vlUn
« is fabric constmrfir>n __
I

a critical appreciation of: - Man-rnade fibers

- Natural fibers

i
Lesson 9 I
YARN !

Yam may be defined as a linear .assemblage of fibers or filaments formed

' into a continuous strand, having textile-like characteristics (good strength and
high flexibility).
I Yam may be composed either of continuous filaments or staple fibers.
* Yams made from staple fibers are often referred to as spun yams. Filament
yams are composed of continuous filaments that are mostly parallel. Two or
, more single yams can be twisted together to form ply or plied yams. Plied j
yams can be further twisted into various multiples. Combination yams are
plied of dissimilar components such as staple and continuous filament yams. j
Natural, regenerated and synthetic fibers are processed alone and in a mul-
titude of blend combinations on staple yam systems. Several combinations of :
continuous filament and staple fiber yam blends are also made. j

20
 )
The physical properties and performance characteristics of yarns depend
on the physical properties of the constituent fibers or filaments and on yam
structure.

(taken from TEXTILE YARN

TECHNOLOGY, STRUCTURE AND
APPLICATION by Goswani, Scardine
and Martiadele)

IDIOMS AND

PHRASES

depend on (upon) - rely on

EXERCISES
I Make sentences using nouns from the following verbs and adjectives:
composed, spun, twisted, continuous, blend, tensile, physical, various, dis-
similar, natural
II What words tell us...

b. that it is possible to make a yarn combining a filament and staple fibers

c. what combination yams are plied of
d. that the physical properties of fibers have a great influence upon the
physical properties of a yam they make
e. what spun yams are made of
III Choose the ending which best completes each sentence:
a. Yams may consist of________ .
b. Two or more single yams twisted together make____________
c. The characteristics of yams depend on
Л VVKiU C n'.nninrr o t/nm n#A Л,||И e *
 b

Lesson#
ч____________________________________________________
NYLON

The most common polyamids are nylon 66 and 6, which are nearly iden-
! tical.
Nylon is used widely in hosiery, lingerie, outwear and household furnish-
ings, in 100 per cent fabrics, blends and combinations.
It is a strong, quick-drying fiber with high wet strength that is important
in outwear and swimwear fabrics.'It resists non-oily stains. Nylon is a resilient
and heat sensitive fiber. Nylon blends well with other fibers and adds strength
to such blends. However, some fabrics made of spun nylon have a tendency to
j Pill- •
Nylon fabrics may be laundered, wet cleaned or dry cleaned, depending on
dyes, finishes, design application and garment construction. They have a ten-
i dency to gray and yellow with age.
I
(taken from MODERN TEXTILES
by Dorothy Siefert)

IDIOMS AND PHRASES

to have a tendency to - to be likely to do something

Nylon has a tendency to yellow with age.

EXERCISES

3
1
fext ,аШ thC meaning
°f the followin8 words as they are used in the
heat-sensitive, blends, to gray, to yellow, tendency, outwear fabric
b. Write sentences of your own using the words given above.

17
 (>
/
r ,
Lesson &
L7 :v ■ • •
POLYESTER FIBERS

I
I
The development of polyester fibers began in the early 1930 s.
Polyester fibers are colorless and can vary from lustrous to dull depending
on the amount of delustrant added to the polymer. ,
These fibers have good recovery properties. Garments made from poly-
j ester fibers have the ability to return to their original shape after distortion and
to recover from wrinkling. V
Heating in air causes very little discoloration of the fibers. Ironing of poly-
ester fabrics at high temperatures up to about 100°C is possible.
' In the apparel field, polyester fibers are used in a variety of men’s, wo-
: men’s and children’s wear - in 100% form as well as in blends with other fi-
j ters- Chemical resistance, strength, and recovery properties contribute to their
j important growth in industrial fields.
i
(shortened from MAN-MADE TEXTILE
ENCYCLOPEDIA by J. F. de Bordenarl)

EXERCISES

I Find British equivalents for the

following American words.
- apparel
- center
- property
- colorless
- zipper
- odor
- fiber
- filling - luster
-fall -grey
- undershin - pajamas
- store
II Write a list of 20 words
associated with man-made fibres
them into sentences. and use

19
 IV Give written instructions for the following - how to dye wool with acid
dyes
Instructions should be clear. They can be made clearer by using words
like: first, secondly, thirdly, then, next, formally. These are organizing
words. If they begin sentences, they should be followed by commas.

Lesson 23
TYPES OF DYES

f Modern chemical dyes change constantly to meet demands of new textile

technology.
Disperse dyes (Acetate dyes) are used for coloring acetate, polyester,
acrylic and polyamide (nylon) fibers. The dye is only slightly soluble in water
but is easily dispersed throughout a solution.
f
{ 48
 Lesson 22
Г' '*
DYEING

Dyeing is the process of immersion of the textile fabric in a solution of the

I dyes in water. When the temperature is raised sufficiently the dyestuffs pass
I from the solution into the textile material and colour it. It is a highly complex
operation involving strict control of time, temperature and chemical processes,
but the ultimate object is to colour the textile material to the best degree of
colour fastness. Dyeing is complicated for two reasons.
Dye must stay in the fabfic and not fade quickly when exposed to light. It
must not bleed or run out of the fabric if it is washed. It mustn’t rub off on to
the wearer.
The various natural and man-made fibres vary in their affinity or capacity
to take dyestuffs. This is because the fibres differ in physical and chemical
composition.
(taken from TEXTILE PROPERTIES
AND BEHAVIOUR by E. Milier')

IDIOMS AND PHRASES

to the best degree - very much, the best possible extent

It colours the object to the best degree of colours and fasteness.
exposed to - leave unprotected or uncovered
It mustn't be exposed to the sun.
run out - fade
When exposed to light, dyes must not fade,
rub off - remove by rubbing
Dyes mustn’t be removed by rubbing either.

EXERCISES

I Give (0r write) sentences to show the meaning of the words

- in the text
- in general: degree, operation, light, bleed,
solution, capacity, process
 Lesson
WHAT A DESIGNER DOES?

The designer must understand the production procedures of the factory as

well as potentional problems when he or she constructs the sample in the
design room.
The designer should know how each new fabric reacts to pressing, wash-
ing or dry cleaning and share this information with the production person who
may modify the sewing or pressing techniques for stock goods.
The designer plays an important role in the sales department, too. He or
she may have contact with store buyers to discuss fashion trends and consumer
reactions. Visits to stores to see how garments fit a variety of sizes and figures
are important for all designers." V •'
All this interaction between the designer and the sales and production
departments of a manufacturing plant is easy to understand when you remem-
ber that a designer’s primary job is to create a product that sells.
The successful designer is usually askiiled artist and sometimes a quali-
fied patternmaker and a dressmaker.

• (taken from INSIDE FASHION DESIGN

by Sharon Lee Tare)

» a happ^one,C°meS gCtS 10 love his

*0*. his life
John Ruskin

EXERCISES

1
Discuss the role of* designer

“ єБ" “ u.„ „ .
 Lesson 13
SPINNING

• The term "spinning" in the widest sense covers the whole of yarn
making,
from the preparation of raw material to the production of the twisted strand of
fibers the yams itself. Thus in filament .yarn manufacture it can appertain to
the complete process, from the chemical preparation to the twisting of the fila-
ments into yams.'Similarly, in the case of staple fibre yarns, the term can be-
used to include the opening and cleaning of the fibrous raw material and also
the final twisting. ' •
In staple fibre spinning these processes are generally:
Opening (and cleaning, if necessary)
Carding
Drawing (also referred to as “drafting”)
Twisting (with combing inserted at some point in the drawing process if
this is required.)
* 1Ће established systems of staple fibre spinning are: cotton, worsted, woo-
lien and cotton waste systems.' They each produce yams having individual
characteristics dependent upon the machine processes employed, and it is the-
refore necessary to consider the characteristics of staple fibre yams.

(shortened from TEXTILE ENGINEERING

PROCESSES by A. H. Nissan)
IDIOMS AND PHRASES

in a sense - if taken with one particular meaning only

m the Widest sense covers the whole of yam making.

EXERCISES

1 Express the following in one word:

a. twisting fibres into yams
b. a short fibre of cotton or wool

29
 1
. Lesson )fa
MICROSCOPIC EXAMINATION

-The textile fiber is first examined at low magnification (10 to 40 x). The
results of this examination are to verify or modify the conclusions reached
during preliminary inspections.
- Selected groups of fibers from
the fabric are then mounted and
examined at a higher magnification.
"The longitudinal appearance of in-
dividual fibers is noted and com-
pared with that of known fibers.
- The cross-sectional appearance may
also be determined.
-Examination of the fibers by
microscope can provide positive
identification of the principle natu-
ral. fibers.'The appearance of the Testing in laboratory
man-made fibers, however, may be
changed radically by variations in their manufacturing processes; hence this
test is of limited value for positive identification of man-made fibers. Even if
these variations are not known, the microscope can still be very useful tool in
extending the information obtained a preliminaiy inspection and in selecting
fibers for subsequent testing.

(taken from MODERN TEXTILES

by Dorothy Siegest)

EXERCISES

I a. Find the words in the lext that has. .

ing words: ' th* S8me meanin8 “ ‘he follow

in
 Some disperse dyes work best on one fiber and some on another. For this
reason ihe choice of dye is very important.
Colorfastness to light, laundering and dry cleaning is good.
Vat dyes (fast dyes) are frequently publicized as having the best color-
fastncss, although (heir lightfastness is inferior to pigments used in solution
dyed fibers
They were originally developed in Europe about 1910 and derived their
name from the equipment used in applying the dye, which included a large
vessel or vat. Today vat dyes can be applied in vats or in continuous fecf
methods.
Vat dyes are adaptable to all cellulosic Fibers and some of the newer man-
•made fibers. There is a wide choice of colors available in vat dyes, and they
withstand hard wear.
(taken from INTRODUCTORY TEXTILE
SCIENCE, by Marjory L. Joseph)

Acid dyes (anionic) form a very large and important group of dyestuffs.
These are derived from organic acids. Acid dyes are used for dyeing wool,
silk, nylon, acrylic, some modified polyester, polypropylene and olefin fibers.
Some dyes possess excellent colorfastness to light, their performance to
washing, dry cleaning and respiration varies.

(taken from MODERN TEXTILE

by Lyle, Dorothy Siegert)

[IDIOMS AND PHRASES

I to be inferior to - to be lower in value (quality)
The lightfastness of vat dyes is inferior to pigments used in solution dyet
I fibers.
to work on - to be used effectively
Some disperse dyes work best on one fiber and some on another.
 Coats are back in 3/4 lengths or full length. Suits, usually in flannels, carry
padded shoulders and tighter bodices with plenty of darts and panelling.
Dresses are wide at the shoulder with plenty of drape above the waist.
They are cut on the bias and move into the body.
Blouses have small collars, tucks, and pleats but not over much detail.
Skirts are slim with such detail as: jetted pockets, stitched knife pleats,
waist points and buttons.
City trousers in twills, and hopsacks are based on comfortable hips and
tapering leg with such detailras: jetted or triangular pockets, high waistband,
pleats, and cuffs.
Modem colours are bright and ultra violet, verdian green, and cosmic blue
often used as accents with black in neon city nights. Soft brown, yellow tones,
beige, and cloud grey are also fashionable.
(slightly shortened from
CLOTHING January 1979)
56
every conceivable shade of beige through to rich chocolate - underline the
m0
°Then there is the hemline question. Lpng and short will co-exist happily
this summer. If you buy long, make sure it is well below mid-calf. However,
there is no denying that short skirts have the fashion edge and the staying
power into 1995. , . л. . ...
The schoolgirl look will dim because short and flirty is much a more dif-
ficult shape for any grown - up to wear than slim and straight.
We have put together a wardrobe of clothes that covers every main fash-
ion point this summer. It shows the new proportions and the different ways to
layer clothes that can make those new shapes easier to wear.
(taken from THE WEEKLY
TELEGRAPH, 1995)

Lesson 27
—
NEEDLES

It is vital in sewing that thread and needle size are correctly matched.
The amount of damage that can be done to seams by using the wrong size
(type) of needle is certain. Too small a needle doesn’t allow thread to pass
clearly through the eye. The result is fraying and weak seams, and in the worst
cases the thread may snarl and break. Increasing the needle by one size can
improve loop formation and performance but too large a needle will produce
poor loop formation and consequent mis-stitching. The thread will not fill the
gap in the material and will make an unattractive seam. To lessen the risk of
damage to the material it is wise to choose the fine« possible needle size.
Choosing the right type of needle point is another important factor in suc-
cessful stitching. The various types available can divide roughly into cloth
point, and cutting point needles.
(slightly shortened from CLOTHING
January 1979)

59
 The list of the words: design, fabric, yam, knitted
fabric, sew, knit, weave, sewer, designer, dyer, dye-
huuse, spinning, knitting miii, weaving shed, spi-
nning mill, designing, loom, paper/pencil, sewing
machine, spinning jenny, design/sketch, dye. knit-
ter, spinner, knitting machine, dyeing, sewing
room, weaving, dyed fabric, sewing

Summer '95 ;

One of two aspects of current fashion is that clothes

should look soft and feel softJEasy, comfortable shapes
have taken over from anything tailored: jackets look
more like shirts or are cut in loose, oriental style; skirts
have movements and flare; trousers follow slim or loose
pyjama lines.
Fabrics that hang with fluidity, such as washed silk,
viscose crepe, linen and knits help to endorse that soft-
ness. And the predominent colours - white, cream,

58
 " rloihe'worn under one’s outer garments ate ...
1 A process that produces a thorough intermixing of fibres is ..
e. To gray means ....
Ш Non-oily is the opposite of oily. Give other words from the text that
use the prefix non-, un-, in- for making opposites:
IV Read the following text in order to get detailed information about the
advantages and disadvantages of man-made fibres.

Synthetics
Three properties which make the new synthetics attractive are linked with
changes in fashion and social habits which have come in recent years.
The first, their low water absorption characteristic which makes them
''drip dry”; cotton and wool ever, when heavily mangled retain their own
weight of water and therefore dry slowly after washing, whereas synthetics
can only absorb a quarter of their own weight.
Secondly, they are thermostatic, which means that, by heat treatment after
washing, the cloth can be given a permanent set so that pleats and creases once
put in are not affected by washing and flatness is permanent. So, ’’minimum
iron” is now a familiar sales slogan.
Thirdly, there is the extreme fineness to which they can be spun, thus mak-
ing for very light-weight inexpensive fabrics.
I
(taken from THE CRAFTSMAN IN
TEXTILES by Leslie J. Clarke)

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