Professional Documents
Culture Documents
International New York Times - 21-22 April 2018
International New York Times - 21-22 April 2018
International New York Times - 21-22 April 2018
..
When snipers shoot to kill civilians Last September, the enthusiastic new
approaching a wall, there are disturbing French president, Emmanuel Macron,
echoes for anyone who has lived in laid out big plans for the European Un-
Berlin. I lived in Berlin. ion, intended to give fresh spark and
I have passed several times through purpose to a bloc preoccupied with mi-
the fence separating the first world of gration, populism and Britain’s exit, and
Israel from the rubble-strewn open-air to breathe new life into French-German
prison of Gaza. It’s a violent transition in leadership.
a place of unreason. As usual Israel Then, as so often with the 28-nation
overreaches, an eye for an eyelash, as bloc, reality and national interests got in
the Oxford professor and former Israeli the way. The German election last au-
soldier Avi Shlaim once observed. tumn badly weakened Chancellor An-
Israel has the right gela Merkel, who needed six months to
Israel has to defend its borders, assemble a governing coalition, one that
but not to use lethal is even more wary about overhauls to
the right to force against mainly the eurozone.
defend its unarmed protesters The Italian election last month gave
borders, but in the way that has the upper hand to populist, euroskeptic
not use lethal already left 35 Pales- parties that want to abandon pension
force against tinians dead and changes and expand Italy’s worrisome
unarmed nearly 1,000 injured. national debt, adding to German jitters.
protesters. Overreaction is DAMIR SAGOLJ/REUTERS So after all the hoopla, Mr. Macron’s
inherent to the exist- The North Korean town of Hyesan. Nearby, smugglers take metal ore across the river into China to dodge sanctions imposed on Pyongyang by the United Nations Security Council. proposed overhaul has been gutted. If
ential threat Israel not “as dead as a dormouse,” as the Ger-
claims, but that is man weekly Der Spiegel opined before
ever less persuasive. Israeli military
dominance over the Palestinians is
overwhelming and Arab states have
lost interest in the Palestinian cause.
Hamas, Israel claims, is using women
How much do sanctions sting? ing smuggled into China at the crossing of “maximum pressure” on the govern-
his visit to Berlin in the past week, his
European initiatives have been heavily
watered down.
And for fans of Europe, that’s too bad.
The window for meaningful changes
SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA
and children as human shields for vio- almost every night. He said smugglers ment of the North Korean leader, Kim is rapidly closing before elections next
lent demonstrators who want to pene- also headed the other way, moving sug- Jong-un, has helped bring him to the year for a new European Parliament,
trate the fence and kill Israelis. The ar, flour and 50-kilogram sacks of fertil- bargaining table. Mr. Trump recently re- and the choices of a new European Com-
script is familiar: international investi- North Korea is hurting, izer into North Korea. vealed that he sent the Central Intelli- mission, European Commission presi-
gations will follow, inconclusive out-
comes, redoubled hatred.
but there’s no sign of There is growing evidence that tough
new sanctions imposed on North Korea
gence Agency director, Mike Pompeo, to
a secret meeting with Mr. Kim this
dent and head of the European Central
Bank. Projects and legislation not ap-
Israel wins but loses. Israel haters, crisis to force nuclear deal to stop its nuclear weapons and missile month to lay the groundwork for the proved by June or, at the latest, October
and Jew haters, have a field day. You programs have begun to bite, and bite first meeting between the leaders of the will fall by the wayside until 2020.
know pornography when you see it. You BY CHOE SANG-HUN
hard. Factories have closed because of a United States and North Korea. It would be a shame to miss this
know a disproportionate military re- lack of raw materials, fishermen have In the past week, Mr. Moon said that chance, said Jacob Funk Kirkegaard, a
sponse when you see it. It’s stomach On a dark February night, the trucks un- deserted their boats and military units Mr. Kim removed a key obstacle to nego- senior fellow at the Peterson Institute
turning. loaded their contraband near Hyesan, a are resorting to charcoal-engine vehi- tiations with the United States by ceas- for International Economics.
Gaza Redux: the violence is inevita- North Korean town across a narrow cles and even ox-driven carts for trans- ing to demand the withdrawal of Ameri- “It is urgent,” he said. “A window of
ble. The Israeli-Palestinian status quo, river from China. As border guards portation. can troops from South Korea as a condi- opportunity between now and Euro-
so called, incubates bloodshed. It’s looked the other way, workers used But the elaborate efforts to smuggle tion for denuclearizing his country. pean elections is real but narrowing.”
important to look beyond the Gaza carts to pull the cargo of metal ore — goods in and out of North Korea are ED JONES/AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE — GETTY IMAGES It is far from clear, however, whether “The constellation of the most cen-
fence, symbol, like all fences, of failure. tungsten, lead, zinc, copper and gold among the signs that the closed, secre- The North Korean flag displayed in lights the pain from sanctions is forcing Mr. trist German chancellor in a long time in
This is what happens when diplomacy concentrates, all banned from export tive country is finding ways to cope. atop the Ryugyong Hotel in Pyongyang. Kim to make concessions and whether it her last term looking for her legacy and
dies, when compromise evaporates, under United Nations sanctions — The North is also responding with pa- could be enough to drive him to trade a French president, newly elected on a
COHEN, PAGE 11 across the frozen river. triotic appeals, with belt-tightening and away his nuclear arsenal. European platform and highly ambi-
By sunrise, all that was left were tire by giving priority to the allocation of re- ine, according to recent visitors and Many analysts and North Korean de- tious, is very rare,” he added. “If you
The New York Times publishes opinion tracks and footprints on the ice. sources to the military and the political North Korean defectors who remain in fectors have doubts about whether eco- think European reform can happen out-
from a wide range of perspectives in A North Korean witness told an ac- elite. Despite shortages, exchange rates contact with people inside the country. nomic pressure alone can change the be- side a crisis, you’ll never get a better
hopes of promoting constructive debate quaintance living in South Korea that and key consumer prices are stable, and President Trump and South Korea’s havior of an impoverished, tightly con- constellation than now.”
about consequential questions. ore, as well as other materials, was be- there is no sign of an approaching fam- president, Moon Jae-in, say their policy SANCTIONS, PAGE 5 EUROPE, PAGE 5
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page two
er of Liberation,” that organizers have able relationship with some of its best- Participants at the weeklong “Exorcism and Prayer of Liberation” course in Rome. Behind the program is a sense that the Roman Catholic Church has gone astray.
given annually for 13 years in hopes of known African exorcists. Archbishop
recruiting and training armies of poten- Emmanuel Milingo, of Zambia, gained
tial exorcists to confront spreading de- notoriety as a healer and exorcist in the seems,” said Professor Ferrari, who Organizers called the priests back in
monic forces. 1990s, when he lived in Italy and where then told the crowd, “We will meet back for a lesson on a bishop’s role in exor-
Participants paid about $375 (simul- he was known as the “witch doctor here after the coffee break.” cism, after which they broke for lunch.
taneous translation was about $300 ex- bishop.” He later married a Korean The students headed for a long table While budding exorcists waited in line
tra) to attend the sessions, which were woman at a group wedding presided with snacks and soda while reporters for pasta behind texting students, or dis-
sponsored by conservative Catholic over by the Rev. Sun Myung Moon and pressed Cardinal Simoni about conduct- cussed the manifestations of pure evil
groups and held at the Pontifical Univer- was excommunicated for ordaining four ing exorcisms by cellphone, which is over yogurt, Mr. Ferrari said he hoped to
sity Regina Apostolorum, run by the married men as priests. technically banned by church law. (He invite the pope’s preferred exorcist, a
conservative Legionaries of Christ reli- More recently the Vatican has for- had done them “100, 1,000 times” he Lutheran, to next year’s conference.
gious order. mally recognized an International Asso- said.) Replenished, Father Cárdenas and
The would-be exorcists blamed the in- ciation of Exorcists in 2014, which keeps Father Cárdenas waited in the aisle, the others returned to the basement hall
ternet and atheism for what they see as its 250 or so members updated on the his cellphone out, hoping to get a picture for the afternoon session, “Exorcism as
a spike in evil, but the urgency evident latest best practices in confronting the of himself with the cardinal. But the eld- a Ministry of Mercy and Consolation
in the course also seemed to have some- devil. The death in 2016 of Father Gabri- erly exorcist shuffled past, leaving the Amid the Bewilderment of Contempo-
thing to do with a growing conservative ele Amorth, Italy’s most famous demon Colombian grumbling, though not de- rary Society.”
view that the church has gone astray un- remover, prompted a new national out- monically. It was led by Archbishop Luigi Negri,
der Pope Francis, and that end times cry for recruits. Turning back to the topic at hand, Fa- who made news in 2015, when he was
had drawn nigh. In the seminar on Monday, Cardinal ther Cárdenas warned that black magic overheard on a train wishing for the
The pope recently had conservative Simoni reported dramatic successes. can be transmitted through screens death of Pope Francis. The pontiff sub-
heads spinning when he was quoted, in- Asked by one priest how he knew if an (“American films are also a problem”), sequently replaced him as the leader of
correctly according to the Vatican, by an exorcism had worked, he responded, that demons enter the body “through the Ferrara archdiocese.
Italian reporter with credibility issues “Ah, you can see it immediately,” ex- the back of the brain,” and that early On Monday, Archbishop Negri
as not believing in hell. “Beyond what is plaining that one possessed person traumas, like sexual abuse, can make a warned the priests what dark forces
tolerable,” the American cardinal Ray- went from jumping up and down and person vulnerable to homosexuality and they would be up against.
mond Burke, a leader of the conserva- “keeping three or four men busy” to ris- TONY GENTILE/REUTERS the demons who, in grave cases, cause “The actor of this evil — this diabolical
tive resistance to Francis, said at the ing with a “joyous smile.” The 89-year-old instructor, Cardinal Ernest Simoni of Albania, explained suicidal or violent tendencies and need and evil entity,” he explained, “is greater
time. “Your exorcisms are very effective, it that exorcisms can be practiced on Muslims, but “they stayed Muslims after.” to be chased away. than any single man.”
arrange the vivid images that distin- Times in 2015. “I wish they’d just look. scribed the abstract painter’s journey phant population and to raise aware- Daphne Sheldrick and her daughter Angela in Kenya in 1968 with Eleanor, an orphaned
guished her work for more than 60 It’s visual.” into the unknown, armed only with col- ness about poaching, which is fueled by elephant that was the subject of Ms. Sheldrick’s book “An Elephant Called Eleanor.”
years. She often spent more time staring Gillian Ayres was born in London on ors, shapes and space-creating powers. the ivory trade.
at a work-in-progress to determine how Feb. 3, 1930. Her father was a part- “Can he construct with these means,” When she spoke about elephants, Ms.
to organize shapes and space than she owner of a hat factory whose customers the note said, “a barque capable of car- Sheldrick strove to convey their intelli- vide food for British and Kenyan troops. Tsavo East National Park in Kenya. He
did painting it. included the British Army. Her mother, rying not only himself to some further gence, their protective instincts and “By the end of the war he had shot and Ms. Sheldrick lived there and began
Ms. Ayres recalled routinely painting the former Florence Brown, was a shore but, with the aid of others, a whole their remarkable memories, something thousands of wildebeest and zebra, and taking in orphaned animals of all sorts,
all night as a younger artist. homemaker. For a while, she attended flotilla, which may be seen eventually as Smithsonian Magazine invoked in 2005 I know just how devastating this was for with an emphasis on finding ways to re-
“I used to go a bit potty,” she told the school in an air-raid shelter in London. having been carrying humanity for- when it highlighted her in an article him,” she wrote. “At least, if there is any introduce them to the wild. Because of
Christie’s auction house in an article When she was attending a girls’ ward?” called “35 Who Made a Difference.” comfort to be had, there was no one bet- poaching and a prolonged drought,
about her in 2015. “It was almost like I school in 1943, books on van Gogh, Gau- Ms. Ayres made her journey into ab- “Elephants don’t forget,” the maga- ter than my father to carry out such many were young elephants, which are
couldn’t stop. That doesn’t happen now, guin, Cezanne and Monet inspired her to stract art in Britain as a woman among zine wrote. “Her face and voice will live work. He was a sensitive naturalist, a quite vulnerable in their first years. Ms.
but I still need the whole day ahead of paint. And at 16, she insisted on attend- far more men. in the memory of many a hand-reared man who cared deeply about wildlife, Sheldrick developed a milk formula that
me. I don’t need a dental appointment or ing art school and was admitted to what “Nobody else was doing anything as orphan for decades as they roam the and he ensured that no wounded animal young elephants that had lost their
any other ruddy appointment interrupt- is now called the Camberwell College of adventurous or uninhibited, like throw- parklands of East Africa, trumpeting was ever left to suffer.” mothers could tolerate, and took to
ing!” Arts in London. ing paint at the canvas, which only had their freedom.” His assignment provided a revelation hand-feeding them.
Like other abstract artists, she did not Chafing at the rigidity of the teaching, parallels in America,” Alan Cristea, Daphne Jenkins was born on June 4, for her when, in 1940, her mother took After Mr. Sheldrick’s death, she estab-
discuss the meanings, if any, in her she left shortly before taking the final whose London gallery represents Ms. 1934, in Kenya, which was still a British her to visit him at his camp. lished the Sheldrick Trust in Nairobi Na-
Ayres’s original prints, said in a tele- colony. Her father, Bryan, and mother, “As soon as I saw the location of the tional Park, focusing on elephants and
phone interview. “But she refused to be the former Marjorie Webb, had a large camp I thought, ‘This is how I would like rhinoceroses.
classified as a woman artist; she farm and timber operation outside to live, out here among the animals un- In 2006 she was given the title of dame
thought that was silly.” Gilgil, northwest of Nairobi. Her mother der the sky,’ ” she wrote. commander by Queen Elizabeth II. She
Yet, he added, “She became sort of a also liked to paint and filled the home In 1953 she married Bill Woodley, who is survived by a daughter from her first
role model for women of the younger with imaginative artwork. worked on Kenya’s game reserves and marriage, Gillian Woodley; a daughter
generation.” “Nursery rhymes danced off our bed- whose duties included battling poach- from her second marriage, Angela
Ms. Ayres taught at St. Martin’s room walls and hand-painted sunshine ing. Sheldrick; two sisters, Sheila Wren and
School of Art in London and the Win- birds of Kenya adorned silk lamp- It was a fraught time in Kenya, with Betty Bales; and four grandchildren.
chester School of Art in Hampshire, shades,” Ms. Sheldrick wrote in her au- the Mau Mau rebellion making life dan- In an interview with “60 Minutes” in
where she was the head of painting. tobiography, “Love, Life, and Ele- gerous for European colonists, and Ms. 2009, Ms. Sheldrick was asked what she
In addition to her son Sam, Ms. Ayres phants: An African Love Story” (2012). Sheldrick had some harrowing tales to admired most about elephants after
is survived by another son, Jim Mundy, Ms. Sheldrick’s father, she wrote, had tell of brushes with violence. years spent with them.
and a granddaughter. She continued to a great affection for the natural world, Her marriage to Mr. Woodley ended “Their tremendous capacity for car-
live with her former husband for many and so he was distressed when, at the in divorce, in part because she and his ing is, I think, perhaps the most amazing
of the years after their divorce. outbreak of World War II, he was sent to boss, Mr. Sheldrick, were drawn to each thing about them,” she said. “They have
COURTESY ALAN CRISTEA GALLERY, LONDON Ms. Ayres stopped painting about a a game reserve in an area called Selen- other. They married in 1960. all of the best attributes of us humans
Ms. Ayres created vivid, colorful images, such as “Dance of the Ludi Magni,” oil, 1984. year ago because of illness. gai and ordered to kill animals to pro- Mr. Sheldrick became warden of and not very many of the bad.”
Printed in Athens, Denpasar, Beirut, Nivelles, Biratnagar, Dhaka, Doha, Dubai, Frankfurt, Gallargues, Helsinki, Hong Kong, Islamabad, Istanbul, Jakarta, Karachi, Kathmandu, Kuala Lumpur, Lahore, London, Luqa, Madrid, Manila, Milan, Nagoya, Nepalgunj, New York, Osaka, Paris, Rome, Seoul, Singapore, Sydney, Taipei, Tel Aviv, Tokyo,Yangon.
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..
THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION SATURDAY-SUNDAY, APRIL 21-22, 2018 | 3
World
Hamas gives peaceful protests a chance
rights, rather than simply for statehood.
NEWS ANALYSIS
GAZA CITY “Hamas is just jumping on the band-
wagon and recognizing the effective-
ness of popular resistance at this mo-
Group accused of hijacking ment,” he said.
grass-roots campaign to In fact, though it is better known for
armed struggle, Hamas has acknowl-
serve its own purposes edged the utility of popular resistance
since it arose out of the First Intifada in
BY DAVID M. HALBFINGER 1987. And last year, it took another subtle
step in that direction, adopting a new
It was a striking tableau: Ismail Haniya, policy that acknowledged growing sup-
the political leader of Hamas, the Is- port for popular resistance.
lamic militant group that has used sui- Yet, not all Gazans see Hamas’s in-
cide bombs, rockets and tunnels in its volvement in the new protests as laud-
long struggle with Israel, standing be- able. Some accused the group of cyni-
fore portraits of the giants of nonviolent cally hijacking the demonstrations to
resistance — Mahatma Gandhi, the Rev. serve its own purposes, while still also
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. and Nelson using young men as cannon fodder.
Mandela. “It’s beautiful that we find Hamas
Urging on Palestinians who have adopting this nonviolent struggle,” Mo-
staged a new campaign of protests hammad Al Taluli, a 26-year-old activist
along the fence separating Gaza from Is- who faces criminal charges for criticiz-
rael, Mr. Haniya likened their struggle ing Hamas online, said sarcastically.
to those for India’s independence, “One week before the peaceful protest
against racial segregation and discrimi- there was a military maneuver for the
nation in the United States, and against Qassam brigades. Do they think they
apartheid in South Africa. fool us?”
“This blessed protest is national, “The gun is no longer a choice,” Mr. Al
peaceful, popular and civilized,” he said. Taluli added. “It’s a burden on anybody
Minutes later, though, he called the who carries it.”
same protests “a deadly weapon” with Yohanan Tzoreff, a former adviser for
which to achieve the Palestinians’ goals, Arab affairs in Israel’s civil administra-
saying that guns, rockets and attack tion in Gaza, viewed the protests
tunnels — the more familiar weapons through the lens of Hamas’s long-run-
that have kept Hamas listed as a terror- ning political rivalry with Fatah, in
ist group by the United States, Euro- which Hamas hopes eventually to seize
pean Union and Israel — remained at control of the Palestine Liberation Orga-
hand if needed. nization, over which Mr. Abbas now
Mixed messages have abounded dur- maintains a tight grip.
ing the so-called Great Return March, “Which is the way that the people will
the grass-roots campaign that began adopt?” Mr. Tzoreff said. “The way of
this month and seeks to highlight hard- Ramallah, which means negotiations,
ship in Gaza and demand the right to re- negotiations, negotiations, and our en-
turn to lands in Israel. While organizers tire fight will be at the international lev-
promised peaceful disobedience of Is- MAHMUD HAMS/AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE — GETTY IMAGES el; or the way in Gaza: popular resist-
rael’s orders to stay far from the fence, Ismail Haniya, left, the political leader of Hamas, likened the struggle of the Palestinians to freedom movements in India, the United States and South Africa. ance, with a lot of readiness to sacri-
participants have thrown Molotov cock- fice?”
tails and other explosives, even attach- For the moment, the two groups are
ing one to a kite. miliated by the failure of reconciliation of sheer desperation to shake things up. By embracing the protests, Hamas enjoying an uneasy public truce, with
And while Mr. Haniya and other Gaza Neither Hamas nor Gaza’s two talks with Ramallah. Yet, even the prospect of war seemed cannily aligned itself with a popular Mr. Abbas expressing solidarity with
leaders espoused Palestinian unity, he million residents, still recovering “They had to make too many conces- unavailing. Neither Hamas nor Gaza’s movement that became even more pop- the Gaza protests.
also, without naming them, accused the from the past two conflicts, have sions in the hope of getting a little bit in two million residents, still recovering ular as it took shape — and that generat- “Fatah publicly support the protests,
Ramallah-based Palestinian Authority exchange, and they wound up getting from the past two conflicts, in 2012 and ed an outpouring of international sup- but behind closed doors, they criticize
and its president, Mahmoud Abbas,
any appetite for more violence. nothing whatsoever,” said Azzam 2014, had any appetite for another round port when Israel responded with gun- them as nothing more than a Hamas
leader of Hamas’s archrival, Fatah, of Tamimi, an analyst for a London-based of violence. fire, killing dozens of Palestinians, al- stunt,” Ms. Milton-Edwards said.
presiding over a corrupt era of “humilia- Center in Qatar who was a co-author of a Arabic television channel with close ties “They’re absolutely exhausted,” Mr. most all of them unarmed. For Hamas, the fate of its new em-
tion, negotiations and security coordi- history of Hamas. to top Hamas leadership. Baconi said. Instantly, the woebegone Palestinian brace of popular protest depends on the
nation” with Israel. But if Mr. Haniya’s unexpected nod to After a decade running Gaza, and To its rockets Israel had responded cause and the crisis in Gaza were back in ability of its leaders, and the Gaza
Few analysts, and certainly few Is- nonviolence struck some as contradic- hemmed in by an Israeli-Egyptian with the Iron Dome antimissile system. the news, and even the demand for a marchers, to walk a fine line along the
raelis, have suggested that Hamas may tory and self-serving — as evidence of, blockade, Hamas was growing deeply To its tunnels Israel was answering with right of return to Israeli land — one that fence with Israel.
actually be rethinking its strategy one might say, a degree of chutzpah — unpopular. a $2 billion reinforced-concrete wall bur- many supporters of a two-state solution Too much in the way of stone- or fire-
merely because it has joined what are his organization’s embrace of the Gaza “Though most Gazans would blame ied deep underground. And this month, seemed ready to throw overboard — bomb-throwing could stir another
meant to be nonviolent mass protests protests had a clear logic that can be un- Israel fundamentally, and Egypt indi- Israel said it had uncovered and de- was being taken seriously, cheering Pal- heavy-handed Israeli response — and
and has name-checked the heroes of derstood in much simpler terms. rectly, a lot of Palestinians would just do stroyed the longest operational tunnel estinians in refugee camps and the dias- the kind of Palestinian blood bath that
peaceful civil disobedience. Terms like “no-brainer.” away with all of Hamas to have a better yet from Gaza. pora. could compel Hamas to answer back
“It’s quite understandable that when Its experiment with popular resist- life,” said Tareq Baconi, author of “Ha- It was no surprise, then, that after a The time was ripe for a popular move- with rockets.
those that proscribe Hamas as a terror ance may or may not be wholehearted, mas Contained: The Rise and Pacifica- grass-roots idea for a peaceful, long- ment in Gaza, where younger Palestin- “The more Israel uses disproportion-
organization see Haniya surrounded by but it is indisputably pragmatic. tion of Palestinian Resistance,” to be lasting protest along the Gaza fence ians, like those on the West Bank and in ate force, the harder it is for Hamas to
icons of peace, it does little to dispel A month or two ago, Hamas was cor- published next month by Stanford Uni- started gaining widespread support, East Jerusalem, have grown disillu- continue holding back from retaliating,”
memories of very violent and bloody at- nered. Isolated regionally, rived by in- versity Press. Hamas brought a halt to what had been sioned with the moribund Oslo peace Mr. Baconi said. “At some point, Hamas
tacks, including by suicide bombs,” said ternal disputes, it had been unable to The group was in such dire straits that a fairly steady tempo of rocket launches process for self-governance, Mr. Baconi will start to lose legitimacy if it doesn’t.”
Beverley Milton-Edwards, an expert on ameliorate a deepening humanitarian analysts and Israeli security officials into Israel and threw its organizational said. Many want to turn the national
political Islam at the Brookings Doha crisis in Gaza and was increasingly hu- warned it might provoke a new war out might behind the demonstrations. movement into a campaign for civil Iyad Abuheweila contributed reporting.
world
world
world
Internment
Lost in battle, found by sleuths of Japanese
WASHINGTON
casts shadow
Amateur detectives put
a name to U.S. Marine’s
in high court
remains from World War II WASHINGTON
BY DAVE PHILIPPS
Business
Crippled agency could aid exports Good times
are here,
playing field so American workers can
WASHINGTON
win,” said Tim Keating, Boeing’s execu-
tive vice president for government oper-
ations.
so why all
Big business groups urge
Trump to fill vacancies
In 2015, General Electric said that it
would stop manufacturing certain gas
engines in Waukesha, Wis., and that it
the gloom?
and revitalize deal-making would instead build a $265 million plant
in Canada, which was offering financial
BY ALAN RAPPEPORT support through its version of the Ex-
port-Import Bank, known as Export De-
As trade tensions mount, an 84-year-old velopment Canada. G.E. attributed the
Washington institution could have been move to the lack of United States export Despite economic stability
a powerful tool for President Trump.
The institution, the Export-Import
financing, saying in a statement that the
company “will secure access to Canadi-
around the world, experts
Bank, was created to help American an Export Finance to fill the gap from fret about the near future
companies compete overseas and bol- the lapse of the U.S. Export-Import
ster exports by providing cheap govern- Bank.” BY NEIL IRWIN
ment-backed loans. After the bank’s board became empty
But the institution, which once fi- last month, Jay Timmons, the chief ex- By a lot of measures, these are very
nanced multibillion-dollar projects, has ecutive of the National Association of good times for the global economy.
been effectively crippled by the Trump Manufacturers, sent letters to every Nearly every major region of the planet
administration. The bank has been with- senator urging them to hold a vote on is enjoying solid growth and prosperity
out a chairman since Mr. Trump took of- Mr. Trump’s nominees. Mr. Timmons simultaneously for the first time in a
fice, and the last of the bank’s five board warned that the lack of action was cost- decade.
members quit in March. Since 2015, it ing American jobs. Yet the world’s top economic policy-
has not had the quorum of at least three “Countries in Europe and beyond makers, who were gathering in Wash-
members that it needs to finance deals have been luring U.S. manufacturers to ington over the weekend, are sounding
or projects worth more than $10 million. set up shop overseas to take advantage awfully glum.
The effective closing of the bank has of foreign export financing because the “The present good times will not last
put American manufacturers like Boe- U.S. system is effectively broken,” Mr. for long,” said Maurice Obstfeld, chief
ing and General Electric at a global dis- Timmons said. “Manufacturers in the economist of the International Mone-
advantage, prompting a frenzied lobby- United States have lost billions of dol- tary Fund, as he released the fund’s lat-
ing campaign by business groups wor- lars in deals, and tens of thousands of est projections, which foresee a solid 3.9
ried that the White House is undermin- American workers have lost opportuni- percent expansion of the global econ-
ing its own trade goals. ties for well-paying jobs supported by omy in 2018.
“The Export-Import Bank plays a vi- the exports that the Ex-Im Bank could Or as his boss, the I.M.F. managing di-
tal role in supporting American compa- have helped secure.” rector Christine Lagarde, put it, “The
nies as they work to sell their products At a congressional hearing this current global picture is bright, but we
to customers across the world,” said month, Representative Charlie Dent, can see darker clouds looming.”
Neil Bradley, the executive vice presi- Republican of Pennsylvania, pressed
dent and chief policy officer of the U.S. Steven Mnuchin, the Treasury secre-
Chamber of Commerce. “But as long as tary, about the fate of the bank and ar- The international system “is now
the seats remain vacant, U.S. businesses gued that not using its financing in danger of being torn apart.”
are at a disadvantage relative to global amounted to a lost opportunity. He sug-
competitors.” gested that some in the Trump adminis-
In the past, the bank had been used by tration wanted the bank to collapse. The pessimism among policymakers
large corporations like Boeing and Gen- “The president says he wants to see — who were getting together for the
eral Electric, which received loan guar- the trade deficit shrink; here’s a way we spring meetings of the I.M.F. and World
antees to sell products like airplanes, can do it,” Mr. Dent said. Bank — contrasts with financial mar-
satellites and industrial equipment to In an interview after the hearing, Mr. kets. Despite a bumpy couple of months,
developing countries, lifting sales and Mnuchin would not say when the presi- stocks and most other financial assets
supporting American jobs. It has pro- dent would nominate a new leader for are still priced at levels that suggest
vided loan guarantees to overseas air- the bank, or whether some of his col- growth will continue apace for some
lines looking to buy American-made jets leagues were rooting for its demise, but time to come.
and helped organizations like the Envi- he insisted that Mr. Trump supported “Economists are paid to worry,” said
ronmental Chemical Corporation build keeping the bank alive. Nathan Sheets, chief economist at
water facilities in Africa. “The president does want it to func- PGIM Fixed Income and a former offi-
Proponents of the bank, including tion,” Mr. Mnuchin said. cial at the United States Treasury and
some lawmakers, argue that the institu- In an interview last year with The the Federal Reserve.
tion could be a powerful weapon for a Wall Street Journal, Mr. Trump said he What are these policymakers so wor-
president who wants to increase domes- had initially been opposed to the Export- ried about? Is this just a bunch of econo-
tic manufacturing and narrow the gap Import Bank, seeing it as unnecessary, mists living up to their field’s reputation
between what the United States imports but had changed his mind. as the dismal science — or worse, letting
and what it exports. But the White House has done little to their own policy preferences shape their
The Export-Import Bank provides the advance its nominees and politics con- forecasts? Or is the world economy, for
kind of government subsidies that other tinue to be an obstacle. Conservatives all its apparent prosperity, actually in
nations regularly use to help domestic have traditionally disliked the bank be- peril?
companies compete abroad. Mr. Trump cause they argue that it amounts to cor-
regularly blames those subsidies for a porate welfare and rewards rich corpo- TRADE WAR WORRIES
flood of cheap imports, saying they ex- rations that do not need taxpayer assist- President Trump tweeted last month
acerbate the United States trade imbal- ance. that trade wars are “good, and easy to
ance. “They distort markets, impose risk on win,” but it is safe to say that leading
The bank was languishing before Mr. taxpayers and they’re bad policy for ev- economic policymakers do not agree.
Trump took office, but its condition has erybody,” said Senator Patrick J. They instead see the risk of ruin in the
worsened under his watch. Last year, Toomey, Republican of Pennsylvania, administration’s tariff threats — a cycle
Mr. Trump’s pick to oversee the Export- who has been one of the most outspoken of retaliation that could disrupt compa-
Import Bank, Scott Garrett, a critic of critics of the Export-Import Bank. nies’ supply chains and cause global
the bank, was rejected by the Senate Mr. Toomey has used procedural tac- commerce to falter.
over concerns that he would close the tics to delay the nomination of the re- Ms. Lagarde argued in a speech this
agency. The other directors who were maining nominees to the bank’s board. month that the global trading system
nominated by Mr. Trump remain stalled He said he wanted Mr. Trump to pick a has had tremendous benefits in terms of
in the Senate, and the president has yet “reformer” like Mr. Garrett, who does reducing poverty and creating higher-
to pick a new leader. not believe in the current mission of the wage jobs. “But that system of rules and
To business groups, manufacturers bank. shared responsibility is now in danger of
and veterans of the bank, Mr. Trump ap- Democrats who support the bank are being torn apart,” she said.
pears to be undermining his own trade growing increasingly impatient. For now, this remains more a theoreti-
aspirations by leaving the Export-Im- CHRIS KOEHLER “One of the best things we can do to cal risk than a cause of major disruption
port Bank in the lurch. help the economy support jobs is to get to economic expansion.
“I’m not sure he’s really being well barely functional. According to its most for its exports in 2016, underscoring the the lack of a quorum at the Export-Im- Ex-Im fully functioning as soon as possi- The Trump administration has threat-
served,” said Fred P. Hochberg, the most recent annual report, the Export-Import competitive disadvantage that the port Bank. The stalling of these deals ble,” said Senator Sherrod Brown, Dem- ened a withdrawal from the North
recent chairman of the bank, who de- Bank authorized just $3.4 billion of United States faces. alone has cost the company hundreds of ocrat of Ohio. American Free Trade Agreement, a
parted in 2017. “If you want to be able to mostly short-term export credit in 2017. The bank’s crippling has been costly millions of dollars. Action does not appear to be forth- steep tariff on steel and aluminum im-
reduce trade deficits and you want to be That is down from the $20 billion that it for both companies and their workers, “Restoring the Export-Import Bank coming. An aide to the Senate majority ports and the intention to tax $50 billion
able to export more, particularly capital authorized in 2014, the last year that the including Boeing. In the last two years, to full strength is the single best thing leader, Mitch McConnell, said that votes (or maybe $150 billion) of Chinese im-
goods, that’s what an Export-Import bank was fully operational. The report two deals involving the sale of its com- Washington can do right now to build on on Mr. Trump’s other nominees would ports.
Bank does.” points out that China provided $34 bil- mercial satellites have been canceled the economic momentum of tax reform, not be held until he names a new chair- But it has then backed away, entering
In recent years, the bank has been lion in medium- and long-term financing and one was significantly delayed given shrink our trade deficits and level the man. ECONOMY, PAGE 8
business
Est.
1926
G.E. pulls back on digital ambitions
DIGITAL, FROM PAGE 7 customers reduce energy consumption,
+41 44 202 76 10 taxfreecars@bluewin.ch pose software for the wider industrial the state authority went with a start-up,
world. In an interview, Mr. Ruh de- C3 IoT.
scribed the change as “a pivot” rather Brian Hurst, chief analytics officer at
renewable Tax Free & Paid registration on Swiss plates than a retreat. Exelon Utilities, a large electric utility
We also register cars with expired or foreign plates “We’re still 1,000 percent behind our corporation based in Chicago, is also
Predix portfolio,” he said. working on early-stage projects with
Two key products in that portfolio GE Digital. Mr. Hurst said the progress
TAX FREE & TAX PAID - NEW & USED
were acquired. In September 2016, GE was encouraging and he saw no evi-
Digital bought Meridium, a maker of dence that the cuts at GE Digital had af-
Expats services equipment-tracking software, for $495 fected their joint work.
Homologation services million. Two months later, it bought But it is something he is watching
International sales ServiceMax, whose software is used to closely. “The technology is moving so
Diplomatic sales manage industrial field service work- fast,” Mr. Hurst said. “Today’s players
ers, for $915 million. may not be tomorrow’s players.”
The current strategy, Mr. Ruh said, “is GE Digital, Mr. Ruh insisted, is build-
about industrial apps” like those. It is a ing a business for the long term. Reve-
The world's most measured, step-by-step approach but
one, Mr. Ruh said, that capitalizes on
nue from the Predix portfolio products
reached $550 million last year, he said,
trusted perspective. G.E.’s strengths — its industry knowl-
edge and deep customer relationships DAMIEN MALONEY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
and sales are growing rapidly. GE Dig-
ital’s total revenue of $4 billion also in-
— and is lifting sales. G.E. set up a center in San Ramon, Calif., to push into the digital market. It invested cludes all of G.E.’s traditional industrial
GE Digital remains a large player in billions in the efforts, but this year it is cutting its expenses by 25 percent. software, and the unit’s global work
Get unlimited digital access an increasingly crowded field of compa-
nies offering industrial internet soft-
force is more than 4,000.
“Our approach is heads-down,” Mr.
to The New York Times. ware of various kinds, in different mar-
ket niches. The entrants include the big
The opportunity for G.E., analysts
said, centers on its longstanding rela-
GE Digital to build apps that improve
the efficiency of its power generation
Ruh said. “We’re going to show you suc-
cess.”
Save 50%. cloud suppliers like Amazon, Microsoft
and Google; major business software
tionships with customers and selling to
them. And so far, only 8 percent of its in-
and distribution network. In pilot
projects, the partnership has saved or
Some analysts recommend putting all
the software in the industrial divisions,
companies like Oracle, SAP, IBM and dustrial customers are using Predix avoided $3 million in costs, said Gil like power and aviation, closer to
SAS Institute; G.E.’s industrial peers portfolio products, the company said. Quiniones, chief executive of the state customers. “San Ramon shouldn’t ex-
nytimes.com/globaloffer such as Siemens, Honeywell and ABB; The New York Power Authority, the power authority. The goal is $500 million ist,” said Scott Davis, chief executive of
and start-ups like C3 IoT, Uptake and nation’s largest state-owned utility, is in savings over the next decade. Melius Research, an independent finan-
FogHorn Systems. one of them. The utility is working with But for a technology project to help its cial analysis firm.
..
THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION SATURDAY-SUNDAY, APRIL 21-22, 2018 | 9
Opinion
Standing up at your desk could make you smarter
We knew
sitting too
much was
bad for the
body. Now
we know it’s
bad for the
brain.
LILLI CARRÉ
the medial temporal lobe, which con- study did not find a significant associa- associative, unfocused thought improves brain health could lower the
Richard A. Friedman tains the hippocampus, a brain region tion between the level of physical process. bar for everyone.
Contributing Writer that is critical to learning and memory. activity and thickness of this brain I remember once forgetting the It’s also yet another good argument
The researchers asked a group of 35 region, suggesting that exercise, even combination to my lock in the gym. for getting rid of sitting desks in favor
healthy people, ages 45 to 70, about strenuous exercise, may not be enough Standing there naked, dripping wet of standing desks for most people. For
their activity levels and the average to protect you from and in a panic that I would be late to example, one study assigned a group
This is an odd admission for a psychia- number of hours each day spent sitting The the harmful effects an important meeting, I tried one of 34 high school freshman to a stand-
trist to make, but I’ve never been very and then scanned their brains with of sitting. wrong combination after another. ing desk for 27 weeks.
good at sitting still. I’m antsy in my M.R.I.
Peripatetics This all puts me in When that didn’t work, I walked The researchers found significant
chair and jump at any opportunity to They found that the thickness of conducted mind of the Peri- around the locker room in a daze for a improvement in executive function
escape it. When I’m trying to work out their medial temporal lobe was in- their patetics, followers of few minutes, came back to the lock and working memory by the end of the
a difficult problem, I often stand and versely correlated with how sedentary philosophical Aristotle, who con- and — voilà — opened it instantly. study. (True, there was no control
move about the office. they were; the subjects who reported inquiries ducted their philo- Intriguingly, you don’t even have to group of students using a seated desk,
We’ve known for a while that sitting sitting for longer periods had the while sophical inquiries move much to enhance cognition; just but it’s unlikely that this change was a
for long stretches of every day has thinnest medial temporal lobes. strolling while strolling about standing will do the trick. For example, result of brain maturation, given the
myriad health consequences, like a The implication is that the more about the the Lyceum in an- two groups of subjects were asked to short study period.)
higher risk of heart disease and diabe- time you spend in a chair the worse it cient Athens. complete a test while either sitting or I know, this all runs counter to re-
tes, that culminate in a higher mortal- is for your brain health, resulting in
Lyceum. Sounds as if they standing. The test — called Stroop — ceived notions about deep thought,
ity rate. But now a new study has possible impairment in learning and Maybe they were on to some- measures selective attention. Partici- from our grade-school teachers, who
found that sitting is also bad for your memory. were on to thing. pants are presented with conflicting told us to sit down and focus, to Ro-
brain. And it might be the case that Of course, the study cannot prove something. But what is it stimuli, like the word “green” printed din’s famous “Thinker,” seated with
lots of exercise is not enough to save that this link is causal. It’s possible about walking — in blue ink, and asked to name the chin on hand.
you if you’re a couch potato the rest of that people with pre-existing cognitive besides increased color. Subjects thinking on their feet They were wrong. You can now all
the time. problems might just be more seden- blood flow to the brain — that might beat those who sat by a 32-millisecond stand up.
A study published last week, con- tary. Still, the researchers screened the facilitate thinking? Perhaps it’s the margin.
ducted by Dr. Prabha Siddarth at the subjects to rule out major medical and fact that you are constantly bom- The cognitive benefits of strenuous RICHARD A. FRIEDMAN is a professor of
University of California at Los Ange- psychiatric disorders, so this explana- barded by new stimuli and inputs as physical exercise are well known. But clinical psychiatry and the director of
les, showed that sedentary behavior is tion is unlikely. you move about, which helps derail the possibility that the minimal exer- the psychopharmacology clinic at the
associated with reduced thickness of What’s also intriguing is that this linear thinking and encourages a more tion of standing more and sitting less Weill Cornell Medical College.
opinion
experts make a plausible case that the amendment The site in Salisbury, England, where a former Russian intelligence agent and his daughter were poisoned with what the authorities say was a Russian military-grade nerve agent.
should still be recognized.
Then there’s the question of what the E.R.A. would
do. Even the most die-hard proponents of the amend-
ment acknowledge that it’s unlikely to radically ad-
opinion
The great snake oil slump Maven to the company’s chief execu-
tive, Sundar Pichai. Rather, it’s be-
cause the United States’ edge in
preneurial tech culture in the 1970s
owed as much intellectually, if not (at
first) financially, to the antiwar move-
approach to A.I. and the United States
should, too.
Yet we shouldn’t forget that civil-
techno-military competition exists in ment and the 1960s counterculture — military antagonism and the deep
practiced it, actually paying for policy publican. This has to be creating some great part because we have a tech hardly friends of the military-industrial American tradition of distrusting the
initiatives like Obamacare. Yet Demo- credibility problems. sector that is not dominated by the complex. Out of this the dominant, state have been crucial to the United
crats were punished for doing the right Also, while the Bush administration state and its needs. highly creative ethos of geek antiau- States’ ability to innovate. There are
thing — remember “they’re taking $500 was systematically deceptive in the way Narrowing the focus of the United thoritarianism grew. good reasons why defense-tech giants
billion from Medicare”? — while Repub- it made its case for tax cuts (and the States tech sector to the needs of the It is hard to believe of the 1960s, ’70s and ’80s like Raythe-
licans seemingly paid no price for their Iraq war, and environmental policy, and. Our
military would serve neither party. On that closer ties with on and Grumman missed out on such
cynicism. Voters focused on the extra . . . ), its deceptions generally involved the contrary, it would make the nation
technology the military would major tech advances as Web protocols,
Paul Krugman money in their pockets, ignoring the selective and misleading presentations weaker. sector is good perpetuate this the smartphone, personal computers
long-run consequences of big tax cuts of the facts rather than flat-out lies. To be sure, defense contracts are at innovation culture of innovation. and various types of encryption — all
for the rich. Trump and his officials can’t be bo- hardly new in Silicon Valley, and precisely The technology of which would eventually have great
So why is this time different? thered with such subtlety; they just lie, Google’s recent moves might be seen because involved in projects military significance. The biggest
I don’t think it’s the specifics of tax blatantly, about everything. Again, as heralding Silicon Valley’s return to it is not like Azure Govern- reason was that none of these ad-
Stop me if you’ve heard this before. A policy. Bush and Trump both pushed some voters seem to have noticed. its natural home in defense contract- dominated ment Secret and vances were directed at waging war;
G.O.P. presidential candidate loses the through big tax cuts for the rich with One thing in particular I suspect is ing. But that would be to misunder- Project Maven is indeed, many aimed at transcending
popular vote, but somehow ends up in what amounted to loss-leader cuts for registering with voters at some level, by the state.
stand both Silicon Valley history and also very different the power of the state.
the White House anyway. Despite his some middle-class families. If you look even if they don’t know much about the today’s technology. from the data-shar- After the Cold War, the Soviet Un-
dubious legitimacy, his allies in Con- at estimates of the distribution of their specifics, is the ludicrous optimism of The internet and much of digital ing projects of the ion’s extraordinary technological ca-
gress take advantage of his election to tax cuts by family income, Bush and Trump economic promises. Republican computing did indeed emerge from 1960s. Those older technologies would pacity dissipated in large part because
ram through a huge tax cut that blows Trump’s look fairly similar. claims about the benefits of tax cuts decades of United States defense con- not have been created in the absence it had been so reactive: The Soviets
up the budget deficit while dispropor- The political background is, however, aren’t just out of line with independent tracts, beginning as long ago as World of government funding. Today’s had let their adversary determine the
tionately benefiting the wealthy. While quite different. For one thing, in 2000 estimates; they’re so far out of the War I. Yet the Pentagon itself sloughed projects, in contrast, are all basically pace and scope of their own innova-
the big bucks go to the big incomes, the U.S. had a budget ballpark as to be in a different universe. off the internet — not knowing quite A.I. plays. Very little of this is defense- tion. The United States should not
however, the tax bill does throw some Why has surplus, and debt had Anyway, the bottom line is that tax what to do with it, and rightly judging specific, but all of it is useful for de- make that mistake.
crumbs at the middle class, and Repub- been falling relative cuts just don’t sell like they used to.
licans try to sell the bill as a boon to
Trump’s tax to G.D.P., making Which leaves you wondering what,
it to be insecure — to the National fense and espionage. Unlike, say,
Science Foundation. When the internet weapons development, A.I. research is SCOTT MALCOMSON is the director of
working families. cut been such concerns about exactly, Republicans have left to run on. special projects at Strategic Insight
became a commercial concern, the inherently dual-use. United States tech
So far this account applies equally to a political long-run fiscal im- True, tax cuts probably had less to do National Science Foundation off-loaded giants would be pursuing it with or Group, a former State Department
George W. Bush and Donald Trump. But fizzle? pacts seem remote. with past G.O.P. successes than many it to the Department of Commerce. without government contracts. Silicon official and the author of “Splinternet:
then the story takes a turn. The Bush In fact, Alan party activists seem to imagine. Other Government might have given birth to Valley does not need the Pentagon to How Geopolitics and Commerce Are
sales job was effective: While the 2001 Greenspan infa- factors were often much more impor- the internet, but it sure didn’t raise it. initiate these endeavors. Fragmenting the World Wide Web.”
tax cut wasn’t overwhelmingly popular, mously argued that a tant. But those other factors also aren’t
more people approved than disap- tax cut was needed to keep America what they used to be.
proved, and it provided the G.O.P. with from paying off its debt too fast. I mean, claims to be the defenders of
at least a modest political boost. But the By contrast, the U.S. ran large deficits family values have lost their punch
Trump tax cut was unpopular from the in the aftermath of the financial crisis, partly because the public has become
start — in fact, less popular than past and the people who yelled loudest about far more socially tolerant — Americans
tax hikes. an imminent debt crisis were the same now support same-sex marriage by a
And this tax cut doesn’t seem to be people who pushed through a $1.5 tril- two-to-one majority! — and partly
winning more support over time. Most lion tax cut. And at least some voters because the current resident of the
Americans say they don’t see any pos- seem to have noticed, and even made White House may be the worst family
itive effect on their paychecks. Public the connection between tax cuts and man in America. Flag-waving claims to
approval of the tax cut seems, if any- Republican attempts to undermine be more patriotic than Democrats
thing, to be falling rather than rising. Medicare and Medicaid. worked well for Reagan and Bush, but
And Republicans have pretty much There are also, I suspect, a couple of are much more problematic for a G.O.P.
stopped even mentioning the bill on the Trump-specific issues involved. that looks more and more like the party
campaign trail. Bush, you may remember, ran on his of Putin.
Which raises the question: Why tax cuts from the beginning. Trump, on Still, Republicans needn’t despair.
doesn’t snake oil sell like it used to? the other hand, pretended to be a popu- After all, they’ll always have racism to
In the past, deficit hypocrisy was an list — he even claimed that he would fall back on. And with the tax cut fiz-
important weapon in the G.O.P. political raise taxes on the rich — and waited zling, I predict that we’ll be seeing a lot
arsenal. Both parties talked about fiscal
responsibility, but only Democrats
until taking office to reveal himself as
just another reverse-Robin Hood Re-
of implicit — even explicit — appeals to
racism in the months ahead.
Whatever happens
Insanity on the Gaza fence The strategy next, we’ll help you
COHEN, FROM PAGE 1
of Erdogan
when cynicism triumphs. Even Presi-
dent Trump has lost interest in his
air and sea blockade, among other
measures).
The Friday Gaza marches are pro- make sense of it.
CAGAPTAY, FROM PAGE 9
“ultimate deal” and sees North Korea tests against the 11-year-old blockade of Mr. Demirtas’s victory denied a
shimmering. Gaza but also focused on reigniting parliamentary majority to Mr. Erdo-
Six former directors of Mossad, the
Israeli intelligence agency, sounded the
alarm a few weeks ago. When those
international interest in Palestinian
claims of a right of return to homes they
were driven from in 1948. There’s no
gan’s AKP. After the breakdown of the
peace talks and renewed conflict be- Newspaper subscription offer:
tween the Turkish military and the
most responsible for Israeli security say
Israel’s current course is self-defeating,
point mincing words: the right of return
is flimsy code for the destruction of
PKK in the summer of 2015, Mr. Demir-
tas failed to distance himself and his
Save 66% for three months.
it’s worth paying attention. Israel as a Jewish state. It’s consistent party from the PKK. Centrist Kurdish
Here’s Tamir Pardo, Mossad chief with the absolutist use of “occupation” and liberal Turkish voters abandoned
from 2011 through 2015, speaking to the as defining Israel itself and with the the HDP.
Israel daily Yedioth Ahronoth: “If the view that the sea is a pretty good place Mr. Demirtas was detained in No-
State of Israel doesn’t decide what it for Jews to end up. It’s stomach turning. In unpredictable times, you need journalism that cuts through
vember 2016 for not appearing in court
wants, in the end there will be a single Palestinians lost their homes after to testify in continuing PKK-related the noise to deliver the facts. A subscription to The New York
state between the sea and the Jordan. Arab armies declared war in 1948 on investigations. Without his leadership
That is the end of the Zionist vision.” To Israel, which had accepted United and after losing the new voters, the
Times International Edition gives you uncompromising reporting
which Danny Yatom, director from 1996 Nations Resolution 181 of 1947 calling for
to 1998, responds: “That’s a country the establishment of two states of
HDP might find it difficult to cross the that deepens your understanding of the issues that matter,
10 percent threshold.
that will deteriorate into either an roughly equal size — one Jewish, one The new Turkish Parliament is most and includes unlimited access to NYTimes.com and apps for
apartheid state or a non-Jewish state. If Arab — in British Mandate Palestine. likely to be dominated by Mr. Erdo-
we continue to rule the territories, I see The resolution was a compromise in smartphone and tablet.
gan’s Justice and Development Party;
that as an existential danger. A state of which I still believe, not because it was the Republican People’s Party, an
that kind isn’t the state that I fought for. pretty, but because it was and remains insipid force that still won 130 out of
There are some people who will say better than other options. 550 seats in the last election; and the
that we’ve done everything and that Intransigent Palestinians like to say hard-right MHP, which is allied with
there isn’t a partner, but that isn’t true. they take the long view. Well, 70 years is Mr. Erdogan and will contest in coali-
There is a partner. Like it or not, the a while, and Palestinians have been tion with his AKP.
Palestinians and the people who repre-
sent them are the partners we need to
losing. Half the territory is now less
than a quarter in any imaginable deal. I
The AKP will have a solid majority Order the International Edition today at
in the new Parliament. June 24 — the
engage with.”
This is the conviction for which Prime
don’t see why that trend would be re-
versed absent creative, unified and
polling day — will be a historic day in nytimes.com/discover
Turkey. Mr. Erdogan narrowly won a
Minister Yitzhak Rabin died, assassi- pragmatic Palestinian leadership fo- referendum in April 2017 to change the
nated by an Israeli agent of the Messi- cused on a two-state future: laptops for Turkish political system from the par-
anic fanaticism opposed to all territorial kids rather than keys to lost olive liamentary to the presidential system.
compromise that has steadily gained groves. The executive presidency, which
influence since 1967. There is no partner The dead have died for nothing. Is- would repose great powers in Mr.
if you’ve chosen God over several mil- rael, through overreach, has placed Erdogan, will kick in after June 24, and
lion people you’d rather not see. But if itself in a morally indefensible noose, Turkey will formally switch to a new
you look, there is. policing the lives of others. Palestinian era where the president will be the
Palestinian belief in two-state com- leaders have borne out Yeats’ lines: “We ultimate head of state, government,
promise has also eroded over the past had fed the heart on fantasies, the police, army and the ruling party.
two decades. Increasingly, you may heart’s grown brutal from the fare.”
hear “occupation” used as a term to Shabtai Shavit, another Mossad SONER CAGAPTAY is a senior fellow and
describe Israel’s very existence, rather director, from 1989 to 1996, said: “Why director of the Turkish Research Pro-
than the West Bank and Gaza, both are we living here? To have our grand- gram at the Washington Institute for Offer expires June 30, 2018 and is valid for new subscribers only. Hand delivery subject to confirmation
Near East Policy, and the author, most by local distributors. Smartphone and tablet apps are not supported on all devices.
occupied during the 1967 Six-Day War children continue to fight wars? What is
(Israel withdrew from Gaza in 2005 but this insanity in which territory, land, is recently, of “The New Sultan: Erdogan
maintains effective control through an more important than human life?” and the Crisis of Modern Turkey.”
..
12 | SATURDAY-SUNDAY, APRIL 21-22, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION
science lab
H E A D I N G FO R H O M E
Nature’s navigators: Sea turtles use magnetic fields to find their way
Sea turtles use the earth’s magnetic fields to navigate back turtles nest on beaches within about 50 miles of where extinction,” said Kenneth Lohmann, a professor at the Uni-
to the area where they were born decades earlier, according they were born. The new study suggests that the turtles versity of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, and senior author of
to a new study that used loggerhead genetics to investigate learned their home beach’s distinctive magnetic signature the study, published in Current Biology.
their travels. through what is called geomagnetic imprinting. He added that the same concepts may help restore salm-
After swimming for years in a giant loop from nesting “This is vital information if you want to restore sea tur- on and other fish to rivers because many birds and fish
grounds in North Carolina and Florida to North Africa, the tles to areas where they once lived before being hunted to also use magnetic fields for navigation. KAREN WEINTRAUB
in the way they live.” to exodus from Africa sapiens out of Africa was portrayed as
a single exodus. But archaeologists
Rikki Gumbs, of the Zoological
A fossilized human finger bone found and paleoanthropologists have chal-
Society of London, on “evolutionarily
in the desert of Saudi Arabia is said to lenged that idea.
distinct” creatures, including the
endangered green-haired turtle. be 85,000 years old. They believe that the journey was
If the age is confirmed, it would be much more complicated and that there
the oldest Homo sapiens fossil found probably were numerous routes, de-
on the Arabian Peninsula. partures and delays.
Along with recent finds of 80,000- “This find, together with other finds
year-old human teeth from Asia and in the last few years, suggest that
65,000-year-old relics from Australia, modern humans, Homo sapiens, are
the Arabian finger bone provides evi- moving out of Africa multiple times
dence that early modern humans during many windows of opportunity
spread out of Africa much earlier and during the last 100,000 years or so,” PAUL O’HIGGINS/AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE — GETTY IMAGES
Sports
Barcelona in cup final: Spain expects jeering
and turned their backs when the Chi- “We do not like anyone to whistle any-
BARCELONA, SPAIN
nese anthem, “March of the Volunteers,” one, but we always respect freedom of
plays before their national team expression,” Josep Vives, a spokesman
matches. In France, politicians called for the club, said in the past week. “Free-
Catalan club’s fans voice for the cancellation of future games af- dom of expression has never scared us.”
pro-independence fervor ter Tunisian-born fans booed the French
anthem before a friendly match be-
Speaking at a book event on Wednes-
day, the club’s president, Josep Maria
during playing of anthem tween France and Tunisia in 2008. And Bartomeu, said, “I’d like to think that
for the past two years in the United when the majority of our supporters
BY ANDREW KEH States, athletes inspired by the N.F.L. have expressed themselves by
AND RAPHAEL MINDER quarterback Colin Kaepernick have whistling, they haven’t done it to belittle
knelt silently during the national an- any symbols, but to protest against cer-
A long hail of whistles and jeers from a them to draw attention to police brutal- tain attitudes against the people of Cata-
crowd numbering in the tens of thou- ity and racial injustice. lonia that have taken place in recent
sands might not be the most articulate But whistling — the European equiva- years.”
way to express a political opinion, Arnau lent of American boos — at the Spanish Inside Camp Nou last Saturday, at the
Pans acknowledged with a shrug. But, anthem at the Copa del Rey has become 17:14 mark of the game (a reference to a
in his eyes, it can serve a purpose. a particularly inescapable gesture pre- 1714 military defeat that Catalans com-
Pans, 24, is a die-hard fan of the soccer cisely because of Barcelona’s unique po- memorate as their national day), a large
club F.C. Barcelona and like many such sition as a soccer powerhouse and a ves- portion of the stadium engaged in a
fans, an active supporter of the Catalan sel for pro-Catalan ideals. This Satur- chant of “Independencia!” and waved
independence movement. On Saturday, day’s game against Sevilla F.C. in Ma- Catalan flags.
for the fifth consecutive year, Barcelona drid will represent Barcelona’s eighth Earlier this month during a Champi-
— the most high-profile of Catalan insti- trip to the Copa del Rey final in the past ons League match, the chants were ac-
tutions — will appear in the final of the 10 years, meaning the jeers aimed at the companied by a flurry of yellow balloons
Copa del Rey, the oldest soccer tourna- anthem, and the king, have effectively that symbolized support for the Catalan
ment in Spain. And for the fifth straight become a fixture of the event. politicians imprisoned for staging Cata-
year, that means questions about free The team keeps winning, the fans lonia’s independence referendum last
expression and the boundaries of poli- keep whistling, and in this way a fraught fall that Spain declared unconstitution-
tical etiquette are being debated as ve- national conversation recycles itself al- al. Play was briefly halted after some
hemently this week as questions about most every spring. balloons drifted onto the field, and the
team tactics and lineups. “You have this gesture of protest club is facing a disciplinary investiga-
The final of the Copa del Rey — the against these state symbols, and the tion from UEFA, European soccer’s gov-
King’s Cup — is the only occasion in centralist Spanish side picks up on it, be- erning body.
Spanish club soccer that features the comes indignant and scandalized, and Independence is an issue that has
playing of the national anthem. So for the whole thing escalates into a nation- split Catalonia down the middle, howev-
the past several years, that brief ritual alist debate,” said Mariann Vaczi, an an- er, and some fans here have grown un-
has given fans of Barcelona who sympa- thropologist who has studied the inter- comfortable with the political atmos-
thize with the independence cause the section of nationalism and sports in phere around F.C. Barcelona. Xavier
chance to whistle and jeer the song — Spain. “So something that starts out as a Roig, a communications consultant and
and the royalty in attendance — with im- gesture becomes a ghost, a recurrent Barcelona season-ticket holder, said he
punity, subverting the stately ritual and monster, for the Spanish state and the stopped going to the stadium about sev-
exasperating their critics. royal family, all because the team has a en years ago because he became “too
“It’s a way to show the world that habit of getting to the cup final.” uncomfortable with all the pro-inde-
something’s happening in Spain, in Cat- Amid the yearly specter of whistles, pendence flags and shouting, which
GONZALO ARROYO MORENO/GETTY IMAGES
alonia,” Pans, a graduate student, said the same criticisms ring out, too. Re- only represents one part of Catalan soci-
last Saturday outside Camp Nou, Bar- peating a popular refrain, Javier Tebas, King Felipe VI of Spain, center, stood for the anthem at last year’s cup final while Barcelona fans whistled and waved Catalan flags. ety.”
celona’s home stadium. “We know the president of La Liga, said this month But the notion that politics and sports
whistling the anthem is not a solution. in a television interview that “there must remain separate can be compli-
But it’s a way to open the situation to the should be punishments, including stop- viewed as disrespecting the national an- Miguel Primo de Rivera, the dictator of shouts as King Juan Carlos grimly cated to defend, according to Alan
world.” ping the game” for disrespecting the them and other symbols of the govern- Spain at the time, ordered the stadium, looked on. The teams have met in the fi- Bairner, a professor of sports and social
Political protests at sporting events, “symbols of the nation.” On Wednesday, ment and the monarchy. Others simply Camp de Les Corts, closed for six nal two other times in the past decade, in policy at Loughborough University in
and soccer matches especially, are not Tebas told reporters that whistling at find it disrespectful. months as punishment. 2012 and 2015; each time, raucous boo- England.
uncommon. Anthem performances, the anthem was “verbal violence,” citing Yet irreverence toward the Spanish In 2009, when Barcelona reached its ing drowned out the regal melody. Bairner noted that the playing of an
however, often provide the biggest mo- the millions of people in Spain, including anthem in sports stadiums has a cen- first Copa del Rey final in a decade, it The Barcelona club, which the Span- anthem at a game itself could be seen as
ments, the largest audiences and invalu- some in Catalonia, who have emotional tury-old history in this city. On Jan. 24, faced Athletic Bilbao, a team from the ish writer Manuel Vázquez Montalbán a political act.
able media coverage. ties to the song. 1925, Barcelona fans jeered the anthem Basque region that has its own sizable once described as the “unarmed army of “Often, when somebody says politics
Soccer fans in Hong Kong, for exam- The harshest critics of the jeering reg- and applauded the British anthem, dur- segment of separatist fans. The result Catalonia,” has walked a delicate path have no place in sport, they mean, ‘Your
ple, have for the past few years booed ularly call for the criminalization of acts ing an exhibition match. In response, was a deafening chorus of whistles and around the debate. politics have no place in sport,’” he said.
WIZARD of ID DILBERT
(c) PZZL.com Distributed by The New York Times syndicate
Created by Peter Ritmeester/Presented by Will Shortz
Solution No. 2004 KENKEN THE SATURDAY CROSSWORD | Edited by Will Shortz 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Fill the grid so
that every row,
column 3x3 box Fill the grids with digits so as not Across 28 ___ Corporation, 52 Juvenile put-down 15 16
Weekend
style weekend
New venture
Comey for founder of
does dress Net-a-Porter
the part
LONDON
BY MICHAEL J. DE LA MERCED
“Good Morning America” and “The “looked to be” all his own (but maybe
Late Show With Stephen Colbert.” it wasn’t), his too-long tie and the Ms. Massenet and Mr. Brown are
And he is only going to get more white pouches under his eyes, perhaps counting on Ms. Massenet’s Net-a-
omnipresent, thanks to a media blitz from goggles worn while fake tanning. Porter experience and contacts to help
that includes appearances on “Today,” (Former President Barack Obama, he Imaginary Ventures. The firm has al-
“The View,” “The Rachel Maddow writes, looked “thinner” in person.) ready invested in companies like Glossi-
Show” and CNN, and a book tour that Then there’s that now-famous story er and Everlane, an upstart clothing
lasts until May 25, with stops in New PARAMOUNT PICTURES, VIA ASSOCIATED PRESS about Mr. Comey’s attempt to use his brand. “Their understanding of con-
York; Chicago; Portland, Ore.; Wash- blue suit to blend into the Blue Room’s sumers in today’s age and how to build
ington; and Los Angeles (among other Costner as Eliot Ness in Brian De in a dark suit, pristine white shirt and blue curtains to avoid an awkward great brands and guide entrepreneurs is
cities). Demand for some of those Palma’s “The Untouchables.” Mr. dark red tie, caught forever in multiple encounter with President Trump, of unparalleled,” Michael Preysman, Ever-
events is so high that tickets are being Comey fits neatly within this predeter- cameras and the watching imagina- whom he was already suspicious. It lane’s founder, said of the Imaginary
resold on sites like StubHub for hun- mined, easily read lens. It’s both com- tion. didn’t work, of course. But it did prove founders in a statement.
dreds of dollars. forting and slightly unnerving to see Even when he takes off his tie, as he he understands the value of clothing as Ms. Massenet began as a fashion jour-
Mr. Comey stares out from small how closely he resembles the fictive has for his recent TV appearances, or camouflage — and, indeed, communi- nalist before founding Net-a-Porter in
screens and promotional pictures embodiments of his role. Life imitating swaps the jacket for a collared shirt in cation. 2000. She left Net-a-Porter shortly after
everywhere — trailers, social media art imitating life. a dark shade, as he did for his Twitter In the book he also acknowledges the e-commerce portal merged with its
and reviews. He is steely eyed, often The names may be different, but page and his author photograph, as if that he chose a gold tie for his news rival Yoox.
glancing upward, as if to a higher goal, these men represent a common char- to acknowledge his role as a private conference about the Clinton emails Ms. Massenet had intended to largely
or resolutely ahead; dark, brush-cut acter, whose seriousness of purpose citizen, his clothes still convey sincer- precisely because, as neither red nor retire, keeping a yellow Post-it note with
hair just beginning to be smudged with and consistent moral code are con- ity and sobriety. There’s nothing really blue, it wasn’t “displaying either of the the phrase “Just Say No” on her comput-
gray; the squareness of his jawline veyed through seriousness of mien and casual about them. normal political gang colors.” And that er as a reminder of how to respond to re-
matched only by the squareness of his consistent dress code. On Mr. Colbert’s show, he wore a when he first took office at the F.B.I. he quests. Other than joining a Net-a-
shoulders, his 6-foot-8 frame often In many ways, these men have black shirt and matching trousers with wore a blue shirt to distinguish himself Porter rival, FarFetch, as co-chair-
draped in layers of true blue. formed our fantasy of the ultimate a gray jacket finished in black buttons: from the previous director, Robert S. woman, she succeeded in doing that.
Even in interviews, he rarely smiles upstanding lawman, who subjugates Johnny Cash, the lawyer version. You Mueller III, a devotee of white shirts, Then came Mr. Brown. He was previ-
(though there were a few grins with his persona to his ideals and his insti- can take the G-man out of the suit (and and signal a new era. (Mr. Comey said ously a partner at 14W Venture Part-
Mr. Colbert). His under-eye pouches tution by assuming the uniform of lore. the job), but not the suit out of the as well that he tried to encourage a ners, where he invested in ventures like
speak of sleepless nights worrying At a time when casual Friday and the former G-man. more casual dress code, but — well, Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop lifestyle site
about the soul of the executive branch rights of the individual to self-expres- This has the Pavlovian effect of everything is relative.) and the shoe brand Allbirds.
and the burdens of doing the right sion through clothes are on the rise, it’s giving his words a believability (at The question now is whether, in Over the course of 2016, the two de-
thing. Warner Bros. couldn’t have cast a clear pledge of allegiance to a differ- least for those who buy into the cultur- becoming the avatar of the ultimate cided to join forces and began talking to
him better if it had tried. ent convention. al stereotype). It helps counteract the G-man, Mr. Comey will herald its ren- prospective investors. Backers of the
The look is in many ways the culmi- It’s a character Mr. Comey has been (understandable) perception that he is aissance or, by the time his tour is new firm include Rick Caruso, a real es-
nation of a cinematic romance with honing for years, since he took the oath limelight seeking and self-promotional finished and the final page has been tate developer based in Los Angeles,
bureaucratic iconography that began of office as F.B.I. director in 2013, and because, even as he stands out there turned, its last gasp? and two fellow fashion entrepreneurs,
in 1935 with James Cagney’s film “‘G’ immortalized in his testimony before on his own, he is connected to a much Depends, I suppose, on whether the Tom and Ruth Chapman, who built and
Men,” and continued through Kevin Congress last June, when he appeared bigger tradition. And it’s an effective Netflix adaptation is far behind. then sold Matchesfashion.com.
New masculinity
in Cape Town
In the queer capital of South Africa, young
men are defining themselves through dress.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KYLE WEEKS
“Masculinity to me means to be comfortable within yourself in your own skin and to “You don’t have to be a ‘man’ to be mas- “I have found an openness to new sexual
Mziyanda Malgas, who is known as Lohaanda, 20. respect others,” said Tumi September, 25. culine,” said Wes Leal, 19. experiences,” said Quaid Heneke, 25.
..
16 | SATURDAY-SUNDAY, APRIL 21-22, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION
TIME: 1 HOUR 20 MINUTES 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh minutes. Drain and set aside.
YIELD: 8 TO 10 SERVINGS oregano leaves 2. Put the oil in a large pot (at least 6
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh quarts) and set over medium-high heat.
4 white chuños (dried potatoes),
tarragon leaves When hot, put in the onion and garlic. Stir
each about 1½ to 2 inches in
3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf and cook for 3 minutes. Add the celery
diameter
parsley leaves and carrot. Stir and cook 3 minutes. Add
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro the ginger and stir a few times. Put in the
1 large (6 to 7 ounces) onion, peeled
leaves drained chuños, 8½ cups water or stock,
and chopped
3 tablespoons chopped basil leaves the russet potatoes, pumpkin or squash,
6 to 7 large cloves of garlic, peeled
¼ pound feta cheese, cut into salt, herbs and feta. Bring to a boil, cover,
and chopped fine
⅓-inch cubes turn heat to low and cook gently for 30 to
1 large stick of celery, diced
3 ounces spinach leaves, stems 40 minutes, or until vegetables are tender. ANDREW SCRIVANI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut
trimmed away and each leaf
into ½-inch rounds 3. Add the spinach, stir and cook, covered,
halved or quartered
1 1-inch piece of fresh ginger, on low heat for another 10 to 15 minutes
Uchucuta sauce, for serving (see
peeled and chopped very fine or until the vegetables are very tender but
recipe)
8½ to 10 cups water or unsalted have not turned to mush. Check the salt.
chicken stock (if using salted Thin the soup out with water or stock if it
1. The evening before you cook the soup,
stock, adjust salt in Step 2) is too thick. It should be drinkable from the
wash the chuños and soak them in a large
1¾ pounds russet potatoes (2 to 4 bowl.
bowl of warm water, enough to cover it by
potatoes, depending on size),
several inches. Leave for 12 hours. Drain 4. Put 2 teaspoons of uchucuta sauce into
peeled and cut roughly into 1-inch
the chuños the next day, wash them off each bowl of hot soup and stir it in. Add
dice
again and cut each potato into 8 to 10 more if desired.
½ pound peeled pumpkin or
parts. In a large pot, combine the chuño
butternut squash, cut into 1-inch Note: Chuños are sold at grocery stores
pieces with enough cold water to cover by
dice carrying Peruvian products. If you can't
several inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce
2¼ teaspoons salt, or to taste find them, skip Step 1. In Step 2, use
heat to low. Cover and simmer until the
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh about 2¼ pounds of russet potatoes,
chuños are puffed up and softer, about 20
mint leaves peeled and cut roughly into 1-inch dice. ANDREW SCRIVANI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
..
THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION SATURDAY-SUNDAY, APRIL 21-22, 2018 | 17
music weekend
weekend books
Sex, drugs
and Shakespeare
witches, prophecies, visions, and the
BOOK REVIEW
mysterious figure of Hecate.
Nesbo’s most consequential decision
was when and where to set his story.
Macbeth
While he follows Shakespeare in locat-
By Jo Nesbo. Translated by Don Bartlett.
ing it in Scotland, rather than taking us
446 pp. Hogarth. $27.
back to the 11th century he places it in
the early 1970s. He doesn’t name the
BY JAMES SHAPIRO city, though there are many hints that
it’s Glasgow. This choice signals Nes-
In 1937, The New Yorker published bo’s ambitions for his novel, giving it a
James Thurber’s “The Macbeth Mur- sharp social edge as well as a timely
der Mystery,” about an avid reader of political resonance. The Glasgow of
Agatha Christie who picks up a paper- that era was a desperately grim place,
back copy of “Macbeth,” mistakenly not unlike those parts of America now
assuming it’s a detective story. She ravaged by the opioid crisis: It was
soon discovers it’s a Shakespeare play staggered by alcoholism, environmen-
but is already hooked and reads it as a tal hazards, high suicide rates, corrup-
whodunit. It takes her a while to iden- tion, gang warfare, the loss of industri-
tify who killed Duncan, after initially al jobs and a significant rise in drug
refusing to believe the Macbeths were abuse. Things were so bad that histori-
responsible: “You suspect them the ans speak of the “Glasgow effect” to
most, of course, but those are the ones account for why Glaswegians died
that are never guilty — or shouldn’t be, younger and suffered more than those
anyway.” Her prime suspect had been who lived in comparable places.
Banquo, but “then, of course, he was It’s tougher than it looks to create a
the second person killed. That was world that is faithful to Shakespeare’s
good right in there, that part. The original while also feeling modern and
person you suspect of the first murder real. Placing Shakespeare’s story in a
should always be the second victim.” late-20th-century world of drugs,
It’s a very funny story and an in- gangs and corrupt civic leaders goes a
sightful one, for Thurber shows how long way toward solving this problem.
closely Shakespeare’s tragedy follows “Brew” — the term used for the drug
the contours of detective fiction. to which so many are addicted — is at
Thurber wasn’t the first to draw such the heart of Nesbo’s novel and neatly
connections; over a century earlier, in straddles the murky world of Shake-
a brilliant essay about the play — “On speare’s witches, with their caldron, OWEN FREEMAN
the Knocking at the Gate in ‘Macbeth’” and that of modern drug labs. By ma-
— Thomas De Quincey had reflected king addiction so central to his plot, Jo Nesbo, left, has Nesbo almost 450 pages to connect straints, and these violent scenes are
on how deeply Shakespeare under- Nesbo also makes Macbeth’s paranoia become known for them, though the pace rarely lags. He among the most memorable in the
stood the interplay of murder and and hallucinatory visions, so crucial to his crime novels is gifted at using casual details to novel. The result is inventive and
suspense. If the many allusions to Shakespeare’s play, not just believable far beyond his define character: It makes perfect deeply satisfying, especially to readers
“Macbeth” in the works of Agatha but meaningful in a contemporary way. native Norway. sense that Banquo drives an old Volvo, already familiar with the plot (and in
Christie, Dorothy Sayers, P. D. James Gang warfare also informs Nesbo’s while Malcolm prefers a muscle car, a America that means pretty much
and other crime writers are any indica- retelling and is well suited to the ex- secondhand Chevelle. everyone who didn’t sleep through
tion, Shakespeare’s play may be seen treme violence of Shakespeare’s origi- Minor characters like the demonic 10th-grade English).
as one of the great progenitors of the nal, in which the fighting that is de- Seyton and Caithness (here a woman, While there are echoes here and
genre, making Jo Nesbo, the celebrat- scribed and staged is ferocious. In this and in love with Duff) have more there of Shakespeare’s language
ed Norwegian writer of thrillers, an dangerous world of ever-shifting loy- significance and are brought to life. (which Don Bartlett, who translated
ideal choice to update the play for alties and ill-gotten gains, it’s easy to Surprisingly, although both Macbeth the novel from the Norwegian, has
Hogarth Shakespeare, a series in become morally compromised. Such is and his wife, Lady, are vividly drawn, handled well), Nesbo is less interested
which best-selling novelists turn the fate of Nesbo’s Macbeth, who at the Nesbo doesn’t give the couple much of in the original’s verbal texture than he
Shakespeare’s works into contempo- outset is a good cop, but soon enough a history together — they’ve only is in adapting its plot and delving into
rary fiction. hungers for promotion and power — known each other for a few years — the moral choices confronting its char-
Nesbo has spoken of finding himself which prove more addictive than the which may explain why their relation- acters. In the end, he offers a dark but
on familiar terrain here, arguing that drugs and alcohol that trap so many in PHOTOGRAPH BY THRON ULLBERG ship feels far less intense and electric ultimately hopeful “Macbeth,” one
“Macbeth” is essentially a “thriller the world of this novel. than it does in Shakespeare’s original. suited to our own troubled times, in
about the struggle for power” that In “Macbeth,” Shakespeare was matic plays and expanding on what Nesbo also makes much of one ad- which “the slowness of democracy” is
takes place “in a gloomy, stormy crime unusually stingy when it came to brought his characters to this point in Nesbo’s vantage he has over Shakespeare, who no match for power-hungry strongmen
noir-like setting and in a dark, para- sharing his characters’ back stories their lives. “Macbeth” is a during the reign of the Scottish King who demand unstinting loyalty from
noid human mind.” True enough, yet and motivations. Did Lady Macbeth So, for example, we think of Macbeth thriller about James, recently targeted for assassina- ethically compromised followers, and
many features of this 400-year-old have a child who died? Was the idea of a lot differently once we imagine that tion, could not show a Scottish mon- where the brave must band together to
tragedy don’t easily fit the demands of killing Duncan planted in Macbeth’s he spent part of his childhood in an
the struggle for arch being killed onstage. The murder defeat the darker forces that threaten
a modern, realistic thriller. One of the mind by the witches or by Lady Mac- orphanage. And Duff (Macduff) be- power that could only be described — so that early to destroy the social fabric.
pleasures of reading this book is beth, or had it been there, dormant, all comes more sympathetic when we see takes place in a in the play Duncan is killed offstage
watching Nesbo meet the formidable along? Why does Macduff abandon his him torn between personal loyalties noir-like and in the final act Macbeth, who James Shapiro teaches Shakespeare at
challenge of assimilating elements of family? What Shakespeare withholds, and the demands of the heart. The setting. succeeds him as king of Scotland, Columbia University. His next book is
the play unsuited to realistic crime Nesbo delves into deeply, taking one of price paid by developing these inter- meets a similar fate, again offstage. about Shakespeare in a divided Amer-
fiction, especially the supernatural: the Shakespeare’s shortest and most enig- twining back stories is that it takes Nesbo works under no such con- ica.
theater weekend
weekend television
dignified.” He thought maybe he’d be a wearing. She did the same for his eye-
living weekend
When
a romance
seems too
easy to trust
She thought that true love should have
all the insecurity of the movie version
Modern Love
BY ALI ELKIN
we’ve seen, think that modate her, but not others in a similar
Was it O.K. to lie to spare
SOME PEOPLE, AS
it’s better to live without painful knowl- situation.
edge when there’s nothing you can do On the one hand, I don’t want to get
about it. If your mother were still alive, involved — if she wants to be dishonest,
an aging relative distress? your brother could have taken this up
with her. Let me say I’m not confident
that such a conversation would have
that’s up to her. On the other hand, her
lies have a direct impact on me; I have
to work more because she’s working
few weeks later, my cousin stopped me yielded much of value; for one thing, less. Our clients are also affected, and
The Ethicist in the park and told me I was a jerk to given how different children are, it’s because we are dealing with legal mat-
have done this. I told her that death is a hard to evaluate claims that a parent ters, her dishonesty may be a breach of
normal part of life and her request of didn’t treat them equally. But at this her ethical responsibilities to them.
me was unjust and selfish. I wished her point, there’s not even a possibility of Should I stay quiet? If not, how can I
B Y K WA M E A N T H O N Y A P P I A H a good life and walked away. seeking resolution in this way. talk to management about this? Name
I believe I acted in the right manner. Once again, though, people are Withheld
My cousin will probably never speak to entitled to be in touch with the truth
When my beloved 92-year-old mother me again. Being a person who avoids about things that matter to them. Your IT WOULD, I agree, be good for your
became gravely ill and passed away last confrontation, I find this uncomfortable. discovery, you feel, confirms your organization and for your clients to
May, a first cousin who lives close by Could I have handled this situation brother’s sense about how he was remedy this situation. If your nonprofit
requested that I not tell her 92-year-old better? Name Withheld valued. Maybe it will prove helpful to has an H.R. department, you can start
mother (my mother’s ex-sister-in-law) him. (He may have felt guilty about there, and there’s always the board,
about the illness (and death) should I THERE ARE PEOPLE with dementia who resenting your parents because he which is charged with advising and
see her in the park. She felt that it can be upset by being told sad news wasn’t sure he had judged them fairly, supervising management. Consider
would be too difficult for her mother to but, perhaps because they lack short- TOMI UM and the letter may relieve some of that contacting a board member if there’s
accept and might cause mental and term memory, can’t really assimilate it. guilt.) Maybe it will, as you fear, prove one you know and trust, or send the
physical problems. During the summer, It’s simply unkind to tell such people I am the youngest of three children and hurtful. The fact is, it’s hard to predict board the relevant information —
when I did cross paths with my aunt, the same painful truth over and over the only daughter. My siblings are both how he’ll process it, and it’s not up to perhaps anonymously, if you’re wor-
she asked me how my mother was. again, and it may be best not to tell in their late 60s, and both my parents you to do so. Don’t try to manage his ried about retaliation. The board
Hesitating, I said that everything was them even once. But it sounds as if have died within the last few years. access to the truth. Let him see the should be concerned that members of
just fine. Afterward, I felt bad and your aunt was in a good position to When I was a child, my mother told me letter. the staff feel they cannot bring such
angry that I had lied to my aunt; I felt take in the fact that your mother had often that she had pined for a daughter, issues to management. And the board
she should have been told. My aunt died. In these circumstances, it was and I have always been aware that this I work at a nonprofit where a majority should care about staff morale and
wasn’t even able to say goodbye to my disrespectful to deny her this informa- desire was the reason she had a third of our staff works far more than 40 efficiency and doing the best for your
mother during her illness or to attend tion. People who have the capacity to child — me. My brother who was the hours a week. We are allowed to work clients, all of which are at stake.
the funeral and memorial services. I absorb information are entitled to the second son always believed he was the from home one day a week. One of my Taking such measures may not be
promised myself that should I see my truth about things that matter to them. least-loved child. Recently I was going co-workers has told me that when she easy. But if you stay quiet, you’re con-
aunt again, I would inform her in a very Your cousin was wrong to lie to her through some old papers when I discov- works from home, she is actually run- doning an abuse of the system. Be-
compassionate way about my mom’s mother, therefore, and wrong to ask ered a letter written to my mother by a ning errands and taking care of her cause it can be hard to estimate how
passing. you to play along, though she no doubt close friend of hers when my mother kids and that she will sometimes work long a legal task will take, clients and
It took a few months, but I did see my did this with the best of intentions. But was pregnant with this brother. In the at night to make up for it. Since I and colleagues count on staff members to
cousin with her mother in the park. My you could certainly have handled the letter, my mother’s friend refers to the many of our co-workers already work pull their weight. Your colleague isn’t
aunt asked about my mother, and my situation better. Once you realized that unborn child by my name, implying that many nights and weekends, this doesn’t producing at the rate she would were
cousin interrupted and said that my these lies were wrong, you should have my mother was so sure that this baby seem fair. She is often unavailable when she working the hours she has been
mother was fine. I corrected her and told your cousin that you weren’t going was a girl that my mother had already she is supposed to be working. paid for. What’s more, her special
told my aunt that unfortunately this to participate in the deception any named her. To me, this validates the This co-worker is currently on ma- treatment unfairly imposes burdens on
was not true. I told her that I was sorry longer — and told her before you pas- feeling my brother has always had that ternity leave, but we’ve learned that she others, and it creates a bad atmos-
to have to inform her in this manner, sed along the sad news. As it was, you his parents valued his siblings more. will be allowed to work from home phere, which can itself affect produc-
but my mother passed away a few weren’t just delivering the news about My dilemma is whether to show my indefinitely when her maternity leave tivity. Leniency goes too far when it
months ago and it hurt me not to be your mother; you were telling your brother the letter. On the one hand I ends. I fear that she is going to pull promotes dishonesty, unfairness and
able to pass on this information. aunt that her daughter had been lying worry that he will be hurt and that it even less of her weight and that the rest disaffection.
The next day I wrote to my aunt to her. You were right to show your will reopen an old wound. On the other of us will have to cover for her. To com-
explaining that I was sorry to have aunt consideration and respect, but hand, it illuminates the truth of his plicate matters, I suspect she gets this Kwame Anthony Appiah teaches philos-
withheld the information for so long. I you could have tried to spare some too experience. Should I show my brother leniency because she is friends with one ophy at N.Y.U. He is the author of “Cos-
told her that my mother lived a wonder- for your misguided but well-meaning the letter or keep silent? Name With- of our bosses. This is not the first time mopolitanism” and “The Honor Code:
ful life surrounded by those she loved. A cousin. held new rules have been created to accom- How Moral Revolutions Happen.”
..
22 | SATURDAY-SUNDAY, APRIL 21-22, 2018 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION
Towers
that twist
as they rise
BY TIM MCKEOUGH
Eco-friendly lifestyle
grid, using solar panels for electricity, agent in Cayo with Re/Max Belize Prop- Field Operations and Diller Scofidio +
holding tanks for water and a septic tank erty Center. “Last year for me was a lit- Renfro, which HFZ is developing with
for sewage. There is also a backup gaso- tle mediocre,” Mr. Acott said. “But this Friends of the High Line as a street-level
line generator. year is much better.” extension of the popular elevated walk-
The solar panels are perched on the Belize should get a boost from recent way.
(appliances included)
roof of a detached two-car carport, and announcements that the international “Our whole idea is to create a resort Two towers being
there is a utility room for the batteries hotel chains Marriott and Four Seasons environment in an urban setting,” said built in New York
and solar power system. The washer are planning to open their first hotels in Mr. Feldman. “We have all the natural City go to great
and dryer and water heater are under the country, said Brittany McCann, an resources — the water, the park, the lengths to offer
the house, where there is also a half agent with Belize Sotheby’s Interna- High Line.” (The High Line is an elevat- views. The “whole
bath. tional Realty. International chains are ed park strip created from an aban- idea is to create a
swimming pool on the ground level. Cellphone coverage and a wireless in- still a rarity in Belize. doned railroad spur.) resort envi-
House Hunting In . . . The entrance to the house is reached ternet connection are available on the “It means a lot more marketing dol- Mr. Ingels said he had designed ronment in an
Belize by a wood staircase to the upper-level property, according to Macarena Rose, lars” for Belize, Ms. McCann said. twisted towers to maximize desirable urban setting,” a
deck. The two bedrooms are at opposite the majority owner of Keller Williams views for residents inside, by allowing developer said.
BY KEVIN BRASS ends of the house, with the kitchen and Belize, the company marketing the WHO BUYS IN SAN IGNACIO
dining area in the center multisided property. The current owners offer the About 75 percent of Ms. Rose’s clients
AN ‘OFF THE GRID’ TREEHOUSE room. One of the rooms connecting a house for short-term rentals, typically are from the United States and about 15
IN WESTERN BELIZE bedroom to the kitchen is used as an of- for $200 to $350 a night. percent from Canada, with the rest a
$1.499 MILLION fice; the other serves as a living room. The property, which is reached by an mix of Europeans and locals.
This elevated two-bedroom, two-and-a- Each bedroom has a dressing area unpaved road, is landscaped with fruit About 80 percent of Mr. Acott’s clients
half-bath wood house wraps around a and and en suite bathroom with a and nut trees. The Mahogany Hall Re- are from the United States, primarily
100-year-old bullet tree. Built in 2012, it shower made from local slate. There is a sort, a boutique hotel with a restaurant, seniors taking advantage of Belize’s re-
is on a 1.9-acre lot about six miles from claw-foot porcelain bathtub in one bed- is about two miles from the property. It tirement program, which offers a resi-
the town of San Ignacio, which is best room. is about three miles to the small town of dency visa and tax breaks. But agents
known among tourists for its jungle eco- The kitchen has hardwood cabinets, Bullet Tree Falls. San Ignacio, the big- said that Cayo was starting to attract
lodges and Maya ruins. stainless steel appliances and a com- gest city in the area, is about a 15-minute more families and younger buyers.
The 2,000-square-foot house is de- mercial-grade stove. The kitchen is sep- drive from the property and has a varie- Buyers are increasingly looking for
signed with three multisided rooms with arated from the dining area by a counter ty of small stores and restaurants. income-producing properties, such as
wood-beam cathedral ceilings, con- and a built-in bench. There are air-con- The nearest international airport is farms and guest lodges, Mr. Lohr said.
nected by two rectangular rooms. The ditioning units in the kitchen and in each the Philip S. W. Goldson International “As recently as two years ago, most
exterior is palmetto wood; doors and bedroom. The furniture is part of the Airport in Belize City, about a two-hour buyers wanted a place to retire and slow
windows in the house are mahogany price, including a pool table in the patio drive from the property. down,” Mr. Lohr said. “Now most buyers
and the floors are a mix of hardwoods. area on the ground level. are looking for investment opportuni-
The house has a zinc roof and is sur- Although the house was connected to MARKET OVERVIEW ties hoping to tap into the growing tour-
rounded by a terrace with views of the the city power subsystem in 2015, it is Belize was once a British colony and the ism and rental markets.”
Mopan River and local hills. There is a designed to operate completely off the official language is English, which
makes it an attractive destination for BUYING BASICS
RENDERINGS BY DBOX FOR HFZ CAPITAL GROUP
tourists, retirees and second-home buy- There are no restrictions on foreigners
ers from Britain and North America. buying property in Belize. Foreign pur-
The most popular tourist spot is the is- chases must be approved by the Belize the buildings to peek around each other
land of Ambergris Caye, which is about a Central Bank, but the process is typi- and neighboring structures.
half-mile from the world’s second-larg- cally a formality, said Ryan Wrobel, an “We minimized the width of the tower
est barrier reef. attorney in Belize. on the river, on the lower levels,” said
Tourism to Belize has grown in recent Belize follows English common law, Mr. Ingels, describing the west tower,
The home can years, which has helped fuel home sales, making the procedures and protections which has a narrower base than top
operate completely agents said. The number of overnight for buyers similar to those in Britain or when seen from 11th Avenue. “But then
off the grid, using tourist arrivals increased by 10.8 per- the United States. “It’s a very simple as it rises, it expands, and at the top, it
solar panels for cent in 2017, from a year earlier, after closing process,” Ms. McCann said. “It occupies the full western facade.”
electricity, holding growing 13 percent in 2016, according to doesn’t require tons of paperwork.” The eastern tower twists in the oppo-
tanks for water the Belize Tourism Board. Agents recommend hiring a lawyer, site way, he added, maximizing lower-
and a septic tank There is no multiple listing service or who can handle the preparation of docu- floor views east and west, to the High
for sewage. The central sales database in Belize, which ments and confirm the title. Buyers typi- Line and Hudson River, but then pri-
master bedroom, makes it hard to track sale data. But the cally place a 10 percent deposit when a oritizing views north and south over the
at right, has a number of sales and prices have been contract is signed; escrow accounts are city at the top.
claw-foot porcelain steadily rising in recent years, agents used to hold funds. Inside the west tower apartments,
tub. The dining said. Mortgages are available, but usually “There’s a real emphasis on natural ma-
room, below right, In the inland Cayo District, where this cover only 40 percent to 70 percent of terials, to reflect natural elements em-
is separated from home is, Ceiba Realty Belize sold more the purchase price, and the rates are bedded throughout the building,” said
the kitchen by a property in 2017 “than in the five previ- typically much higher than in the United Kimberly Sheppard, a partner at
counter. ous years combined,” said Joshua Lohr, States. Most transactions are in cash, Gabellini Sheppard. The materials in-
an agent at the firm. Mr. Wrobel said. clude wide-plank oak floors, gray larch
Cayo typically attracts people inter- wood Bulthaup kitchen cabinets with
ested in an eco-friendly lifestyle, agents LANGUAGES AND CURRENCIES White Princess quartzite counters, and
said. Large parcels of land are available English; Belizean dollar (1 Belize dollar master bathrooms with walls clad in Taj
in remote jungle areas. = $0.50) Mahal quartzite with a leather-textured
Riverfront property is most in de- finish.
mand, Mr. Lohr said, adding that prices TAXES AND FEES The amenity package includes a
for some properties close to rivers had Last year the Belize government raised 4,000-square-foot fitness center with a
jumped 25 percent since 2015. the stamp tax on property sales by for- 75-foot-long pool, a lounge and gallery in
Cayo homes are a bargain compared eigner buyers to 8 percent of the sale the glass bridge, a wine tasting room, a
with those in Belize’s popular coastal price from 5 percent. Lawyer fees are social lounge with billiards tables, a teen
destinations. Prices in the San Ignacio typically about 2 percent to 4 percent of room and a children’s playroom, in addi-
area range from $85 to $125 a square the sale price, Mr. Wrobel said. Agent tion to priority access to Six Senses.
foot, compared with $150 a square foot in fees are typically 6 percent to 8 percent Sales are scheduled to begin on May 7,
the coastal town of Placencia and $180 a of the price and paid by the seller, he with the establishment of a sales gallery
square foot on Ambergris, Ms. Rose said. Filing and registration fees typi- with an immersive installation by the
said. cally add $500 to $1,000, he said. designer Es Devlin at 25 Little West 12th
Buyers in the Cayo district are often The annual property tax on this prop- Street. One-bedrooms will start at $2.8
“looking for more bang for their buck,” erty is about $15. million, two-bedrooms at $3.9 million,
she said. three-bedrooms at $6.5 million, four-
The decline in the value of the Canadi- CONTACT bedrooms at $9 million and half-floor
an dollar hurt the market, making it Macarena Rose, Keller Williams Belize, penthouses at $25 million. The target
more expensive for Canadians to buy +501-727-565-1507; completion date, said Mr. Feldman, is
property in Belize, said John Acott, an kellerwilliamsbelize.com the last quarter of 2019.
..
THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION SATURDAY-SUNDAY, APRIL 21-22, 2018 | 23
travel weekend
An urban jewel
in a compact setting
aged wood and glowing copper ceiling
An exhilarating blend of cultures take you back in time. The restaurant,
weaves its way through the largest city which has received a number of acco-
lades, including for its design, food and
on temperate and lush Vancouver Island drinks, is a homage to two New York
City saloon owners in the 1860s who
championed the art of dining and mixol-
36 Hours ogy. Dinner for two — try the warm Hal-
Victoria, British Columbia loumi cheese salad, spicy Fernet-
roasted nuts and grilled lingcod — in-
BY SUZANNE CARMICK cluding choice British Columbian wines,
costs about 130 dollars.
This compact, eminently walkable city,
set amid the breathtaking beauty and
bounty of Vancouver Island, is lauded as Saturday
one of the world’s top small urban desti-
nations. Beyond the picture-perfect Urban oasis 9 a.m.
downtown waterfront, British Colum- Fol Epi bakery is known for its wild-
bia’s capital, Victoria, is an exhilarating yeast breads, made from milled-on-site
blend of cultures: Canadian and First organic flours and baked in brick ovens.
Nations, Chinese and European (espe- Choose from an array of loaves, pastries
cially British). There are three universi- and quiches, then think ahead to a pack-
ties, thriving arts and cultural institu- able lunch of sandwiches. Walk down
tions, significant historic preservation, a Douglas Street to Beacon Hill Park:
celebrated local food scene and Cana- This 200-acre oasis is to Victoria what
da’s mildest climate: That means year- Central Park is to New York City. The
round forest visits, biking and golf; gar- landscape varies from manicured and
dens galore; even beehives downtown natural gardens to forest, swampland, PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMA PETER FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
(at the Fairmont Empress hotel; atop lakes, Garry oaks and camas fields, and
the Harbour Air floating terminal). it includes a children’s farm and a 127- to teach Chinese language classes. rave reviews for its organic, local menu. Drive up the coast 1 p.m. The 19th-century
There is wildness too: “bear jams” dis- foot totem pole. Great blue herons nest Climb the stairs to the top floor of the Now the restaurant serves brunch, with Beyond the cemetery, Dallas Road takes Old Victoria
rupting traffic, cougar sightings and in the towering firs and peacocks strut; Yen Wo Society building to see the oldest hearty buckwheat and rye pancakes, other names but continues along the Customs House in
soaring eagles, towering ancient trees, relax and listen to birds fussing and active Chinese temple in Canada. egg dishes (cured salmon scramble with dramatic rocky coast through neighbor- Victoria, British
log-strewn beaches and distant snowy fountains gurgling. Make time to tour fennel, capers and cream cheese), hoods such as upscale Oak Bay, where Columbia.
peaks. the nearby Emily Carr House (6.75 dol- Down to earth dinner 8 p.m. house-made lamb sausage and pork you’ll find art galleries and British-style
lars); the Victoria-born painter of Olo (meaning hungry in Chinook) belly, kale and mushroom Benedict, and pubs and teahouses. Stop at Willows
forests and First Nations scenes spent serves up serious fare with a nod to the even fried oysters (9 to 21 dollars). Beach for a walk or a swim, then contin-
Friday her childhood gamboling in the park. region’s cultural diversity. The space is ue north past the University of Victoria
comfortable and rustic, with warm light Royal BC museum 11 a.m. to Mount Douglas Park. You can hike or
Early days 3 p.m. Along Dallas Road noon emanating from hanging spheres of You could spend hours in this stellar re- drive up; either way, the panoramic
The blocks north of the Empress and This scenic stretch on the southern loosely wound wooden strips. A recent pository of natural and human history, view is remarkable: across Haro Strait
west of Douglas Street, including China- shore of the city, from Fisherman’s meal included crisp Hakurei turnip sal- with its singular collection of British Co- to the San Juan Islands, toward down-
town, comprise the Old Town. Start at Wharf to beyond Ross Bay Cemetery, ad, garganelli pasta with a meaty sauce, lumbia First Nations archaeological ma- town, or across rural Saanich. Hungry
Bastion Square and Wharf Street, over- draws walkers, joggers, bikers and and a dreamy dessert (rhubarb, salm- terials, as well as provincial archives. again? Head back to town for Foo Asian
looking the harbor, where James Doug- dogs. Have a picnic, clamber down to the onberries, elderberry ice cream, fennel The First Peoples gallery includes a to- Street Food, where a hearty, steaming
las founded Fort Victoria in 1843 as an beach or simply marvel at the water macaron), with local wine (about 140 tem hall and ceremonial house, an inter- bowl of curried noodle stir fry with pork
outpost of the Hudson’s Bay Company. views and roadside homes. Start at Og- dollars for two). active language display and a collection and shrimp, prepared while you watch,
This area became the heart of com- den Point, where interpretive kiosks tell of Argillite (black shale) carvings from costs 14 dollars. Alternatively, the
merce, industry and government, about the Breakwater and the Unity Haida Gwaii, while the Old Town recre- charming Venus Sophia Tea Room
swelling in size after the 1858 Fraser Wall murals painted on both sides, de- Sunday ates period streetscapes and trades — a serves organic teas and sweets —
Gold Rush. Next to the Old Victoria picting Coast Salish First Nations cul- cannery, hotel, sawmill — even the 1790s Cream Earl Grey with scones, cream
Customs House is a grassy overlook ture. Walk out to the lighthouse, watch- Brunch for breakfast 9 a.m. ship quarters of George Vancouver. Ad- and jam costs 14 dollars — and vegetari-
with a display telling the history of ing for sea otters and seals. Farther east, When it opened in 2016, Agrius garnered mission: 17 dollars. an lunch items.
British settlement and the indigenous past Clover Point, cross the road to Ross
Lekwungen people. Check out the lively Bay Cemetery. This rambling, peaceful
Bastion Square pedestrian area of resting place of many of Victoria’s nota-
shops, markets, restaurants and cafes; ble citizens is also where you’ll find
then, on Government Street, browse some of the city’s oldest heritage trees,
through Munro’s Books, situated in a cuttings from which were planted all
century-old bank, and founded in 1963 over the young city.
by the Nobel Prize-winning Canadian
writer Alice Munro and her then-hus- To the garden 2 p.m.
band. Detour through Trounce Alley From the cemetery, head to the exqui-
(note the 125-year-old gaslights), then site Abkhazi Garden, tucked away on a
walk east on Fort Street to La Taqueria quiet block behind rhododendrons and
to snack on tacos amid festive music and Garry oaks. The tranquil gardens, with
colorful tiles. A juicy carnitas taco with their several distinct outdoor “rooms,”
pickled red onions and salsa is 3 Canadi- were designed to harmonize with the
an dollars, or about $2.35, and a Baja fish rocky glacial outcroppings and native
taco with cabbage, salsa and chipotle trees on the hilly property, which in-
mayonnaise is 6 dollars; wash it down cludes rock ponds (with mallards and
with Mexican fruit soda or local beer. turtles) and the 1950s Modernist sum-
Carré H
Time, square like a Hermès scarf.