Mario Macías

Morton, Paula. (2014). “Chapter 1: The Incomparable Tortilla”, in Tortillas: A Cultural History.
University of New Mexico Press, Santa Fe, New Mexico.
Morton, Paula. (2014). “Chapter 2: The Life-Giving Tortilla”, in Tortillas: A Cultural History.
University of New Mexico Press, Santa Fe, New Mexico.

“Question: How have neoliberal policies affected the association of individuals with corn? Did
the abandonment of rural areas in recent years has signified a new meaning to the traditional
processes of association with corn as a symbol of identity?”

In this chapter Morotn focuses on the importance that corn has had for the civilizations of
Mesoamerica and its prevalence to present days as a sign of identity and gastronomy. Morton
mentions that from the pre-classical and formative periods (1500 BC-AD 300) to the time before
the conquest (1521), the civilizations of Mesoamerica had a close relationship with corn of
greater importance than only food and subsistence. This first chapter is a review of the
archaeological record of corn and its relationship with Mesoamerican cultures as an essential
grain for the diet of its inhabitants as a symbol of identity and worship.

The chapter details about stories and associations of corn with the Mayan and Aztec
civilization. From creation stories such as those presented in Popul Vuh, as well as association
with deities like Quetzalcoatl in the Aztec empire. In addition, the author details the nutritional
importance of corn as a source of carbohydrates and protein in Mesoamerica. Similarly, its
preparation from a fermented drink to the transformation of corn grains into tortillas through the
process called nixtamal. Morton recreates with archaeological evidence, the first signs of
tortillas, the use of charcoal and the artifacts used to process the tortillas. Thereafter, Morton
talks about the complex process to produce tortillas and how they came to be part of the identity
of individuals in Mesoamerican civilizations. The last two sections of this chapter present the
impact of the arrival of the Spaniards in the change of name from their pre-Hispanic name to
what we know now as tortilla, and persistence of corn despite the efforts to eradicate its
consumption. Tortillas have prevailed as the main grain of food in Mexico and Central America
today representing a basic grain of the dietary of its inhabitants and a symbol of identity.

The second chapter describes the importance of corn for the consolidation of the Aztec
empire. Being a new empire formed by northern tribes known as Chichimecas, the Aztec empire
Mario Macías

managed to consolidate itself in the current valley basin of Mexico City where the city lay
around a lake of great extension and with a climate characterized by the abundance of water.
Because the Aztec empire lay on an island within the lake, they initially had problems with food
supplies because of the lack of land for cultivation. Because of this, the Aztec empire was
characterized by great conquests forcing the inhabitants of the conquered regions to pay tribute
that was mostly in grains. The dimensions of the empire were such that their mercantile networks
ran from the present southern states of the US, to Panama and Nicaragua in the south. Later, with
the help of Netzahualcoyotl, a philosopher and engineer, the empire created an agricultural
system that would allow the efficiency of the large portions of water in the basin called
Chinampas. The following section tells the connection and importance of tortillas in the daily
life of the inhabitants of a community of the Mixteca in Oaxaca. Morton tells the ritual of a
wedding where tortillas represent unity, birth and beginning of life, being the equivalent in
importance of what body and blood represents in Western culture.