Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Clean Beauty Directory and Formulary
Clean Beauty Directory and Formulary
Ebook 2019
Safe and
Sustainable
Silicones for
Clean Beauty
Clean Beauty
Directory and
Formulary
• Clean
• Safe
• Sustainable
• Eco-Friendly Replacing
• Bio-Based Microplastics
Sustainability Drives
Consumer Purchases
KEY POINTS
• Clean beauty aligns with a variety of tenets:
minimal ingredients, consumer safety, social
responsibility, transparency, etc.
Decoding
Clean Beauty
Jeb Gleason-Allured and
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Cosmetics & Toiletries
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
C lean beauty is something everyone is talking about with-
out ever defining it. While the specifics may vary, most
retailers, brands and even consumers agree the key pillars
include: safety, sustainability, ethics and transparency.
In attempt to decode this market phenomenon, consider
this quote from Gregg Renfrew, CEO and founder of Beau-
tycounter: “[O]ur mission is to get safer products into the hands of everyone … ”
Beautycounter grew 27% between 2017-2018, and in 2018, it was the most searched
beauty brand online in the U.S., generating $320 million in sales for the year, per NPD num-
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
bers. That makes it not only the largest digital-native oils.” Qualifying products feature a Clean at Sephora
brand, but also one of the top stand-alone brands sticker. These designations also serve to make it
in all of beauty. The brand even sent reps to Capitol easier for consumers to determine which choices are
Hill in 2018 to lobby Congress to act on preventing “best” in an increasingly crowded marketplace filled
“harmful” ingredients from being used in beauty and with countless upstart indie brands.
personal care. This activism represents a growing But not all free-from claims are embraced equal-
embrace of the precautionary principle— the world ly by consumers. For instance, Nielsen data shows
view held by many consumers and upstart brands. clean brands that eschew specific no-no ingredients
The growing reality is consumers want brands and key artificial ingredients grew by 4.2% in 2018,
and retailers to deliver products that are thoughtfully compared with brands that merely declared them-
designed to have the least possible negative impact selves artificial-free, which grew by just 2.6% in 2018.
on human health, the environment and society—as Another Nielsen report noted, “In our study … ‘free
they, the shopper, define it. This no doubt rightfully from’ claims didn’t stand out as much to consumers
rankles plenty of suppliers and chemists who are as some of the specific ingredient mentions, but over-
frustrated by the nuances and technical realities that arching ‘free from harsh chemicals’ and ‘non-toxic
are all too often lost in the conversation. But there ingredients’ themes were very believable to achieve
are ways to use emerging green technologies, safe various skin care benefits.”
synthetics, consumer education and institutional Brands that operate in the EU have an added
technical know-how to find new paths forward. challenge: The latest update to the EU’s EC No.
655/2013 regulation now prohibits free-from claims
Free From ‘Free-from’ as of July 1, 2019. The latest annex prohibits the use
What’s not in a product has become the focus of of free-from claims for ingredients prohibited by
the beauty industry in recent years. It’s no surprise, the EU Cosmetics Regulation (e.g., heavy metals);
then, that data from Nielsen shows “free-from for formulations that are merely in compliance with
artificial fragrance” brand dollar sales rose 2% in the law; for ingredients that aren’t supposed to be
2018, compared with 0.1% for the total personal present in the product; for products that leverage an
care sector. These now represent about 28.2% of the ingredient for specific attributes (e.g., preservation
total market. or fragrance) without claiming those attributes (e.g.,
Meanwhile, retailer no-no lists provide a strong an aromatic material not claimed as a fragrance),
tool of trust-building and differentiation for retailers unless that attribute is a side function of the general
of all sizes. SpaceNK, for instance, states that clean ingredient family; or for ingredients/ingredient fami-
beauty “refers to any formulation that is free from a lies that are legally used. Notably, there are instances
list of potentially harmful and irritating ingredients, where free-from claims will be allowed, including des-
and instead uses a combination of plants, vitamins, ignations for vegan products (i.e., free-from animal-
minerals and botanical extracts to help restore skin derived products).
to its optimum health and vitality.” The company
adds, “Clean also refers to products and brands that The Case for
showcase a concerted effort to manufacture more Safe Synthetics
consciously, whether it be recycled packaging or The beauty industry, just like the foods industry,
sustainable ingredients.” has suffered from the false equivalency of natural
At the same time, the Clean at Sephora program with safety. However, in the age of veganism and
features products “formulated without SLS, SLES, safe ingredients, conventional materials have a role
parabens, formaldehyde, phthalates and mineral to play. For instance, silicones are an inert, non-
reactive technology that boosts the sensory impact marketers and savvy social media teams to advocate
of products without skin irritation. These materi- for science-based conversations about products that
als also comply with the Clean at Sephora beauty focus on safety, efficacy and value.
standards. At the same time, consumers have real
concerns about sourcing ethics when it comes to Go Blue or Go Home
naturals, with palm oil and coconut oil often in Brands in the clean/sustainable space grew rapidly
the spotlight. In fact, according to Mintel, 74% of in 2018, including Tata Harper (38%), Kopari (66%)
Spanish beauty and personal care consumers are and Coola (59%), according to NPD data. Many
concerned that ingredients used in natural products brands have adopted green practices that focus on
are not sustainable. limiting harm to people and the planet, while offering
Ethical and sustainability considerations have transparency around ingredients and business prac-
helped fuel the use of responsible synthetic op- tices. A subset of those brands have evolved further,
tions throughout the beauty industry. For instance, pushing into what’s known as blue beauty, which seeks
Mintel found synthetic beeswax appeared in 5% of to avoid harm while also addressing or undoing dam-
global makeup launches in 2018, compared with 3% age from the past.
in 2014. Carmine launches dropped from 37% to This blue mindset takes the form not just of zero
23% between 2013 and 2018. Cruelty-free makeup waste, but also of generating negative carbon foot-
brushes with synthetic fibers are also on the rise prints. Companies operating in this space will leverage
Conventional chemistry can continue to play a role closed loop concepts, as seen with some packaging
in improving the sourcing and sustainability ethics pilot programs under way with P&G, Unilever and
of the beauty industry and score points for sound others, in addition to upcycling concepts, reusable
science in the process. technologies, truly recyclable materials that won’t ulti-
mately end up in a landfill, and, interestingly, focusing
Meet the Skintellectuals on boosting the economic well-being of a wider swath
The beauty industry may have an emerging ally of society. (For more on this subject, see the July/Au-
in getting the word out about the benefits of cosmet- gust issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries).
ic ingredients of all kinds. Skintellectuals are true
beauty nerds. They’re hyper-knowledgeable about
brands, products and ingredients and are probably
least likely to utter the phrase “if I can’t pronounce
the name, I don’t want it in my products.”
The skintellectual is the answer to the over-
whelming anti-technological attitude found among
a significant number of beauty consumers who prize
natural above all else. These consumers understand
why ingredients are included in products and can
explain what, exactly, they do.
But they’re also demanding. They want formulas
that work hard and deliver clinic-standard results
at-home. These consumers can also be leveraged by
Free E-book
Combining these aspects of what clean beauty could mean to 42 Clean Beauty Demo Formulas
the formulator, Cosmetics & Toiletries offers this free Clean Beauty
Ebook, sponsored by Grant Industries. It features articles on sustain-
ability, replacing microbeads, and silicones as a safe synthetic option
46 Supplier Directory
KEY POINTS
• Fifty-one percent of consumers globally
say their beauty and grooming product
choices are influenced by the brand’s level of
social responsibility.
Sustainability
The Driving Force Behind
Beauty Consumer Purchases*
A
*Republished with permission from Global Cosmetic Industry, 2017: www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/natural/
Sustainability-Is-Driving-Beauty-Consumer-Purchases-409565475.html
Beauty’s
Sustainability Leaders P&G has made a commitment to have zero
So which brands are doing it best? Sus- waste to landfill; it currently has 68 zero-waste
tainability pioneer Weleda, for example, has manufacturing sites across the globe.”
undertaken ethical sourcing of raw materials
for decades, while Neal’s Yard Remedies was Less is More
the first UK high street retailer to go carbon Sometimes, brands come unstuck when
neutral. Neal’s Yard Remedies purchases car- taking a particular stance. Taking parabens
bon offsets from wind power projects in India out of formulations, for example, was once
and China, supplied by The CarbonNeutral a ploy used to sell products. Only two of
Company, and has devised a “Carbon Action the parabens in use in the industry actually
Plan” to deliver its carbon emission reductions. showed mild toxicity upon scientific review,
The brand uses its CarbonNeutral certification but now microbiome science is again bringing
in advertising, catalogs, shop windows and the issue of preservation back into focus.2
its website. However, Marie Alice Dibon, founder of
“What has changed in recent years is that Alice Communications Inc., explained that
large multinationals and conventional brands companies that jump on the latest sustain-
are also now investing in sustainability,” said ability issue often do so without correct
Amarjit Sahota, CEO of Organic Monitor. “It is knowledge of the science behind it.
common for many such companies to develop “Understand it,” she advised. “Hire the peo-
natural lines (reflecting green formulations), ple that can help you communicate internally
reducing packaging footprints, etc.” about it, informing all levels. Not everyone
Another approach is for companies to “buy needs a Ph.D. in science but everyone who
green expertise,” such as Unilever’s purchase of works in our industry needs to understand at
the green brand Seventh Generation, with the least the basics and follow the news.”
plan to re-engineer its product formulations.
Authentically Sustainable
Waste Not According to Dibon, authenticity and ethics
Beauty companies including Unilever and are values that run throughout an organiza-
P&G are recognizing the commercial benefits tion but are tricky to communicate.
of reducing energy use and water footprints “They’re not [just] injected into a product
and optimizing waste management. one morning because we choose to convey
Grupo Boticário, the second largest cosmet- them now,” she explained.
ics company in Brazil, has switched to green Dibon believes the beauty industry needs to
polyethylene packaging for its Cuide-se Bem be proactive in setting industry guidelines as
brand. The polyethylene is made from sugar, well as labels to reassure the consumer. If the
rather than petroleum, saving more than 90 big players apply best practices, they will pull
tons of plastics per year. the industry up as a whole.
“There are also cost benefits since moving to “We can’t make the same mistake we did
eco-design, as there is 10% less plastic material with organic products,” she warned, “with too
used in the packaging,” said Sahota. “Similarly, many certifications in the European Union
and not enough in the United States.” and political unrest continue to have a
She added, “A good social media policy profound effect on consumers’ lives.
is essential as it helps with transparency. “Key environmental and social issues
But there is no magic bullet and it will the planet faces today are not the same
take time.” as those it faced 20 or 10 years ago,” said
Sahota. “The same will be true in five to 10
Sustainability’s Evolution years’ time.”
Sustainability is a nebulous term but
has been moving up the public’s political References
and economic agenda as businesses adopt 1. Candean, Organic Monitor and Marie Alice Dibon delivered
responsible practices toward the sourc- marketing trends presentations at the 2017 in-cosmetics
Global event in London.
ing and manufacturing of their products.
In beauty, it began with a move toward 2. Read more at skininc.com/skinscience/
natural and/or organic formulations, and ingredients/Ingredient-Hysteria-and-
Misconceptions-238484541.html
has since moved on to sourcing ingredi-
ents ethically and producing eco-friendly
packaging.
For example, Unilever has undertaken
advertising campaigns that emphasize
good social causes as part of its Sustain-
able Living Plan, which aims to expand
the company’s business while reducing its
environmental footprint. The program,
which achieved an overall score of 92
out of a possible 100 on the Dow Jones
Sustainability Index, recently partnered
with ingredient supplier Symrise, Deutsche
Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammen- Sustainability:
Not If But How
arbeit (GIZ) GmbH, and Save the Children
to improve the livelihoods of vanilla farm-
ing communities in Madagascar.
Similarly, L’Oréal has made a commit- Some actions aren’t voluntary but mandatory.
ment with its Sharing Beauty With All Breathing, eating, sleeping. . .sustaining. And
companies have accepted this fact, if for no other
pledge. Recently, the company was granted
reason than maintaining profitability. Some have even
an “A” rating by the nonprofit group CDP fully embraced it, not only in theory but in practice.
for fighting deforestation, “especially for its
However, according to a report by the SustainAbility
sustainable sourcing actions of raw materi-
think tank, a company’s future success lies not in
als [such as palm oil and timber], used in whether they have adopted sustainable practices, but
its product packaging and formulas.” in how they are implementing them.
“A key measure of corporate leadership will be
The Future of Sustainability to demonstrate how to move from ambitious goals
The growing refugee crisis, economic to ambitious implementation,” said Earth Security
migrants in Europe and the United States, Group’s Alejandro Litovsky, in an interview.
the rise of far-right political parties and
Brexit—all of these issues will impact on
the way brands do business in the future. C&T Webcasts
As a result, Organic Monitor has forecasted Llisten to our podcast with James Clark, Ph.D.
that social issues will feature more promi- www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
nently in sustainability in the future, as
social inequality, developing world poverty
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use with superior quality.
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KEY POINTS
• While cosmetics represent a small source
of primary and secondary microplastics
in the environment, it is a source that
could easily be avoided by using natural
biodegradable alternatives.
• As such, described herein is a research
project to identify a natural, biodegradable
alternative for peel applications. Plant
cellulose was of particular interest.
W e live in a
time when
our oceans
are lit-
tered with
plastics.
According to the literature, as much as three
times more plastic than fish may be in our
oceans by 2050.1–4 Microfine plastic particles
find their way back via wastewater to the
sea and into our food chain. This occurs
because, with a size of less than 5 mm, the
concerns. First, microplastics can
attract environmental toxins due to their
surface characteristics. Throughout
their lifetime, plastic particles’ surfaces
become rougher, potentially acting as
magnets for other harmful substances
present in the environment.5 If these
toxins and microplastic particles are
ingested by sea organisms and released
into their gastro-intestinal systems, the
organisms may experience negative
effects such as tissue changes, inflam-
particles are too small for effective removal matory reactions, toxicological impacts,
by wastewater treatment plants. They are internal injuries and even death.6
almost non-biodegradable and can be harm- Secondly, the morphological character-
ful to marine life. istics of the particles themselves may
The hazard potential of microplastics pose threats.7
is mainly characterized by the following
Based on these risks and consumer con- alternative with good efficacy. The first objec-
cern, the use of microplastic particles, i.e., tive was to define the criteria for the desired
microbeads, in personal care products has been characteristics, to produce optimal replace-
prohibited in the United States as of January ments for specific microplastic particles.
2018. The British government also banned per- This included finding the ideal size, shape,
sonal care products containing microplastics as hardness and surface morphologies, to obtain
of January 2018, and several additional countries the desired characteristics without causing
in the EU are discussing similar bans. skin irritation.
While efforts are being made to phase them From this information, biodegradable
out, microplastics are still used in some cosmetic cellulose particles were derived from various
products; most commonly exfoliants. As soft sources and modified using a milling and
abrasives, these formulas help to remove dead grinding technology. Their microstructures
skin cells and stimulate blood circulation. In were analyzed, and their abrasion and clean-
addition, microplastics are used in some coun- ing effects were tested for applicability in
tries as abrasive particles for dental care.8 facial exfoliants and toothpastes. This article
It is true that cosmetics represent a small presents the results of these tests in relation to
source of primary and secondary microplastics facial exfoliants.
in the environment, compared with other
sources. One report showed 4,300 tons of Material and Methods
microplastic particles were used in EU personal Natural cellulose and reference particles:
care products in 2012.9 However, it is a source Generally, the cellulose particles used in this
that could easily be avoided using natural or studya-c were made from organic and renew-
biodegradable alternatives. able raw materials. Natural cellulose particles
Yet, there are still significant scientific chal- vary in terms of their particle shape and size,
lenges to finding replacements for microplastic which enables different functionalities in line
particles. Alternatives must satisfy requirements with the specific targets of cosmetic applica-
for cleansing effects but also be biodegradable tions. Cellulose from different natural sources
and available at moderate costs. Several attempts was tested, including beecha, oatb and wheatc.
have been made to replace plastic microbeads Reference particles including silica and
using natural particles such as hydrogenated polyethylene were used for comparison.
waxes, silica, sugar, salt and crushed plant stones Exfoliant formulas: In vitro measurements
or nut shells.10 However, their scientific features for abrasion and cleansing effects were per-
and effects have room for improvement. formed with a water-based exfoliant formula
As such, described herein is a research (see Formula 1). As noted, cellulose particles
project to identify a natural, biodegradable were compared with polyethylene and stan-
dard silica abrasives in identical formulations,
each including a different particle at 3%. Two
The global exfoliators and scrubs market market references containing polyethylene and
is projected to grow at a CAGR of 4.68% silica also were used as benchmarks.
between 2016 and 2020. Morphological characterization of
cellulose particles: Characterization of the
a
Sensocel 100G and 200G globular beech cellulose particles,
Source: ResearchandMarkets b
Sensocel oc 30G globular oat cellulose particles and
c
Sensocel wc 200G globular wheat cellulose particles are products of
CFF GmbH & Co. KG
a) b) c)
d) e) f)
a) Globular beech cellulose particles (100 mm); b) globular beech cellulose particles (300 mm); c) globular oat cellulose particles;
d) globular wheat cellulose particles; e) polyethylene (PE); and f) silica
Figure 1. SEM image of cellulose particles, polyethylene and silica from beech wood
Results:
Cleansing
Efficacy
The results for
cleansing efficacy are
represented in Figure 4,
which are confirmed by
the visual comparison in
Figure 5. Here, cellulose
particles had a cleansing
effect in cosmetic prod-
ucts that was comparable
to that of polyethylene or
silica. Significantly lower
cleansing efficacy was
found for commercial
product 1 and water.
Discussion
The results for abra-
sion and cleaning efficacy
indicate that biodegrad-
able cellulose represents
Figure 3. Abrasion of different cleansing bodies measured an ingredient with
optimal characteristics
by change in color (ΔE)
for dermal cleansing par-
ticles. Cellulose showed
very low abrasion on the
skin and a mild, gentle
cleansing effect. In addi-
tion, cleansing effects
matched those of low
abrasive polyethylene.
While standard silica
shows good cleansing
effects, its high abrasion
must be considered.
This effect is of par-
ticular concern as the
effects of pollution and
its impact on skin are
being elucidated.
Summary
This study aimed to
identify, optimize and
analyze natural cellulose
particles for their use as
environmentally friendly,
biodegradable alterna-
Figure 4. Cleaning efficacy (%) of different cleansing bodies tives to microplastics in
cosmetics and personal
Figure 5. Visual comparison of the cleaning results on synthetic skin leather: a) initially; b) with
makeup; c) with water; d) with 3% beech cellulose 1; e) with 3% beech cellulose 2; f) with 2% beech
cellulose 1 + 1% beech cellulose 2; g) with 3% polyethylene; h) with 3% silica; i) with commercial product
1 and polyethylene; and j) with commercial product 2 including silica
care products. The results indicate cellulose 5. M Llorca et al, Adsorption of perfluoroalkyl substances on
microplastics under environmental conditions, Envt Pollution
scrubs offer optimal characteristics including 235 (2018) 680–691
low abrasion with high cleansing efficacy. Thus, 6. MA Browne et al, Microplastic moves pollutants and
cellulose represents a mild, patch-test approved additives to worms, reducing functions linked to health and
and non-irritating alternative to other natural biodiversity, Current Biol 23 (2013) 2388-2392
scrubs and shows 100% biodegradability. 7. SL Wright et al, The physical impacts of microplastics on
marine organisms: A review, Envt Pollution 178 (2013)
483-492
Acknowledgements: Funding by Project Management Jülich
8. T Gouin et al, Use of micro-plastic beads in cosmetic
(PTJ) and German Federal Ministry of Education and Research
products in Europe and their estimated emissions to the
(BMBF), project#: 031B0041A, 031B0041B, 031B0041C is greatly
North Sea environment, SÖFW 3 (2015)
acknowledged. We would also like to thank Skinomics GmbH
from Halle (Saale), who was mainly responsible for developing the 9. http://mcc.jrc.ec.europa.eu/document.
exfoliant formulations as well for the galenic and dermatological py?code=201606243248&title=Study%20to%20sup-
port%20the%20development%20of%20measures%20
testing of formulations.
to%20combat%20a%20range%20of%20marine%20lit-
ter%20sources (Accessed Jun 7, 2018)
References 10. R Mantilla and S Venkataraman, Feeling the power of
nature, COSSMA 7–8 (2017) pp 13-14
1. M Eriksen et al, Plastic pollution in the world’s oceans: More
than 5 trillion plastic pieces weighing over 250,000 tons 11. J Pérez et al, Biodegradation and biological treatments of
afloat at sea, PLoS One 9(12) (2014) doi: 10.1371/journal. cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin: An overview, Int Micro-
pone.0111913 biol 5 53–63 (2002) doi 10.1007/s10123-002-0062-3
2. KL Law et al, Distribution of surface plastic debris in the 12. Y Tokiwa et al, Biodegradability of plastics, Int J Mol Sci
eastern Pacific Ocean from an 11-year data set, Environ Sci 10(9) 3722–3742 (2009)
Technol 48(9) 4732–4738 (2014) doi: 10.1021/es4053076
3. AL Andrady et al, Microplastics in the marine environment,
Mar Pollut Bull 62(8) (2011) pp 1596-605 doi: 10.1016/j.
marpolbul.2011.05.030
4. L Lechner et al, The Danube so colourful: A potpourri of C&T Daily Newsletter
plastic litter outnumbers fish larvae in Europe’s second
largest river, Facets 188 (2014) pp 177-181 Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
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KEY POINTS
• Silicones have a long and safe history of
use in cosmetics, which underscores their
relevance to the clean beauty movement.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
20 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
facebook.com/CandTmagazine www.grantinc.com
Cosmetics & Toiletries 2019
@cosmeticsandtoiletries Clean Beauty Ebook
Safe and
Sustainable How Silicones Match the Clean Beauty Mindset
A
Charles Granatell and John Gormley
Grant Industries, Elmwood Park, NJ, USA
Here, the researchers found that of six Regarding the latter point, the European
individuals suspected to be sensitive to jojoba Union took steps to do exactly that—i.e., pro-
oil, five developed erythema or erythema and vide transparency—when it announced it would
vesicles on their forearms within 24 hr or 48 hr require brands to list commonly identified
after patch-testing with it. Notably, comparative allergens on ingredient listings.4 Subsequently,
patches using pure olive oil, pure mineral oil or multinationals such as P&G have followed suit.5
muslin cloth alone were negative. As a control,
28 patients with no known sensitivities were Clean Beauty Defined
patch-tested using muslin soaked in pure jojoba Just as Whole Foods set the stage for organic
oil, and no reactions were elicited after 72 hr. product claims,6 Sephora has defined clean
Furthermore, while consumer demand rises beauty7 in what could become the future direc-
for natural products, at the same time, 95% of tion for the cosmetics industry. According to the
consumers surveyed cite product efficacy as the company’s website, “Clean is simple: the beauty
most important factor when choosing a prod- you want, minus the ingredients you might
uct. While strides have been made to develop not.” It adds that, to get it right, the company
naturally derived materials with improved “scoured the scene, met with brand founders
functionality, the gold standard especially for and experts, and asked [the consumer] exactly
esthetics is still silicones. what [they’re] looking for in clean beauty.”
As a result, the cosmetic industry has Sephora notes, “When you spot our Clean
evolved to support these market priorities for seal, you can be sure we’ve checked that this
safety and performance, as well as responsible brand’s products don’t include the ingredients
sourcing. “You want a product to be both you’d most like to do without.” The current list
efficacious and safe,” said Margarita Arriagada, includes the sulfates SLS and SLES, parabens,
former chief merchant of Sephora. “But just formaldehydes, formaldehyde-releasing agents,
because something is natural, doesn’t neces- phthalates, mineral oil, retinyl palmitate,
sarily mean it’s good for you. The promised oxybenzone, coal tar, hydroquinone, triclosan
land is safe and effective. …and the entire and triclocarban; though without additional
beauty industry needs to be transparent,” says explanation beyond consumers feedback.
Arriagada, “That is clear.” Interestingly, Sephora’s definition is more about
what clean beauty is not than what it is. The
company notes it will continue to update this
ingredient list as the clean movement grows.
not just all-natural claims; in other words, as 9. Stevens, C. (1998, Oct). Environmental fate and effects
of dimethicone and cyclotetrasiloxane from personal care
an industry, we should not continually respond applications. Int J Cosmet Sci 20(5) 296-304.
to what customers want if it does not support 10. Kipping, F. and Lloyd, L. L. (1901). Organic derivatives of
their best interests. silicon. Triphenylsilicol and alkyloxysilicon chlorides. J Chem
In reality, silicone-based raw materials Soc Trans 79 449–459.
have already been a crucial contributor in the 11. Ema, M., Harazono, A., Miyawaki, E. and Ogawa, Y. (2009,
Apr). Dow Corning presents new silicones portfolio at In-
natural, clean and ethical products category. Cosmetics. Chemical Business 23(4) 16.
A search19 in Mintel’s Global New Products 12. Starch, M. (2002). New developments in silicone elastomers
Database, between 1998 and June 2018, reveals for skin care. Dow Corning brochure, article 27-1060B-01.
that silicone elastomers were included on the 13. Toub, M. (2002, Jun). Factors affecting silicone volatile levels
labels of some 12,856 skin care and makeup in fabricated silicone elastomers. Rubber World 226(3) 36.
products designated as natural. Further find- 14. Colas, A. and Curtis, J. (2004). An introduction to materials
in medicine. Biomaterials Science, 2nd edn. Atlanta: Elsevier
ings demonstrate significant growth between Academic Press.
2012 and 2017 of products containing silicone 15. Dow Corning (1998, Jul). Degradation of Silicone Polymers
elastomers making claims around “ethical” in Nature. Available at http://www.green-flow.co.il/Docu-
and “environmental” marketing positions. ments/Aquatain%20AMF/%D7%9E%D7%97%D7%A7%D7
%A8%D7%99%D7%9D%20%D7%95%D7%A0%D7%99%
These findings make a lot of sense given the D7%A1%D7%95%D7%99%20%D7%A9%D7%98%D7%97/
mineral origin, safety and reliability of silicone Degradation%20of%20Silicone%20Polymers%20in%20
materials. Nature.pdf
Consumers choose products with natural 16. Cyclosiloxanes Information Center (2019, Apr 22). D6–
Health and Environment. Available at www.cyclosiloxanes.
and clean claims because they are trying to org/D6_health_environment_properties
align their purchases with personal ideologies. 17. CTPA (2019, Apr 22). Confidence in Cosmetic Claims. Avail-
Individuals who care about animals support able at http://ctpa.org.uk/document.aspx?fileid=3479
vegan products, while others value sustainable 18. Meredith, E. (2019, Apr 22). EU Regulatory Update: CTPA’s
packaging over anything else. Take on Claims and Cannabis. Available at https://www.
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/regulatory/region/europe/
“The consumer is taking matters into their EU-Regulatory-Update-CTPAs-Take-on-Claims-and-Canna-
own hands. They’re coming from a position bis-505376341.html
of strength,” reflects Arriagada. “It’s about 19. Mintel (2018). Polysilicone-11 Landscape. Proprietary brief-
lifestyle. It’s what we’re living.” Enter: the ing, www.mintel.org
References
1. Herich, D. (2018). The Natural and Organic Beauty
Consumer: 2008-2018. Available at http://gcimagazine.
texterity.com/gcimagazine/april_2018/
2. Williams, H. C. (1992, Nov). Is the prevalence of atopic
dermatitis increasing? Clin Exp Dermatol 17(6) 385-91.
C&T Daily Newsletter
3. Scott, M. J. (1982, Apr). Jojoba oil. J Amer Acad Derm 6 4
(part 1) 545 Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
4. Steinberg, D. C. (2013). The EU Fragrance Allergens. delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
Available at https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
regulatory/claims/premium-The-EU-Fragrance-Allergens. http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
html
5. Latimer, A. (2018). Over 3500 P&G Products Are
Now Included Within SmartLabel. Available at https://
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/regulatory/claims/
Over-3000-PG-Products-are-now-Included-Within-Smart-
Label-483219161.html C&T Webcasts
6. Whole Foods (2019, Apr 22). Organic Labeling. Available at Find current and upcoming webcasts at
https://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/organic-labeling www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
7. Sephora (2019, Apr 22). Clean at Sephora. Available at
https://www.sephora.com/beauty/clean-beauty-products
8. Starch, M. (2008, Nov). Silicones’ benefits in anti-aging
skin care. Cosm & Toil
• Enhanced compatibility with organic materials such as natural oils and butters, esters and sunscreens, while
maintaining the unique sensory characteristics and texture imparted by silicones
• Combination of Polysilicone-11 network with naturally-based fluids will serve as the perfect delivery system for
natural actives into the skin while leaving a light dry, smooth and powdery finish
• Addition in formula:
– Add to oil phase or silicone phase of any type of emulsion, including o/w, w/o, Si/w, w/Si and
anhydrous systems; post addition is also possible, if viscosity >50,000cPs
– Disperse SiAPPTM elastomer with homogenizer or propeller type blade
– Silicone elastomer is not heat sensitive. If heat is applied refer back to SiAppTM elastomer flash point to
determine maximum temperature allowed (the use of a closed vessel will prevent volatilization):
• GRANSIL GVL-LITE: 65° C
• GRANSIL GVL-912: 75° C
• GRANSIL OGH: 81° C
• GRANSIL SUG: 110° C
• Odor: silicones are odorless; however, combined with naturally-derived fluids, a stronger characteristic wax-type
odor may occur. Use of high temperature may enhance this effect. To off-set it, use a citrus type fragrance or an
essential oil (not limited to) or post-add raw material, once batch is a room temperature.
• Finish product packaging: organic portion in SiAPPTM elastomer may migrate to surface of the plastic and behave
as a plasticizer altering the shape of the packaging as well as finish product performance; to avoid this phenom-
ena it is recommended to use co-extruded, thick wall, polyester or polyethylene terapthalate type plastics or glass
packaging when applicable
• Applications across the board:
– Skin and sun care (including anhydrous clear systems), color cosmetics and hair care
Perilla Frutescens Seed Extract Water (aqua), Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Maltodextrin
Perilla Oil, International Cosmetics Science Kernel Extract Neo Actipone Acai, Symrise, Inc.
Centre A/S (ICSC) Dragocalm, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Astringent, Skin Smoothing
Emollient Antioxidant
Glycerin, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract,
Raspberry Seed Oil/Tocopheryl Succinate Water (aqua), Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water (aqua)
Aminopropanediol Esters, Rubus Idaeus Extract, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Actipone Stinging Nettle Juice (Organic),
(Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Symrise, Inc.
(Raspberry) Seed Oil Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Organic Red Raspberry Oil, I & W Research Pro Soleil BCR, Bio Component Research Antioxidant, Astringent, Dandruff Treatment,
Inc. Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Skin Stimulant
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Cooling/Soothing, Skin Protectant, SPF
Exfoliant, Skin Clarifier, Skin Healing, SPF Booster
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Booster, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Promois WJ-SP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Foam
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Extract ANTI-IRRITANT
Booster/Stabilizer, Glosser, Hair Conditioner,
JD Jojoba Organic Colorless Oil, Jojoba Hair Repair, Moisturizer, Powder
Desert (A.C.S) Ltd. Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root
JD Jojoba Organic Golden Oil, Jojoba Desert Extract Hydroxyacetophenone
(A.C.S) Ltd. SymRelief 100, Symrise, Inc. SymSave H, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Bobgunnia Madagascariensis Wood Extract, Antioxidant
JD Jojoba Colorless Oil, Jojoba Desert Propanediol
(A.C.S) Ltd. SymFit nat 1750, Symrise, Inc.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9,
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Cellulite Pentylene Glycol, 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol,
JD Jojoba Golden Oil, Jojoba Desert (A.C.S) Treatment Propylene Glycol, Water (aqua)
Ltd.
SymCare W2, Symrise, Inc.
Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Camellia SymCalmin, Symrise, Inc.
Sinensis Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Extract,
Boswellia Serrata Extract, Honey Extract, Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Glycyrrhiza
Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract
Tetrapeptide-14, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Benzoate Actipone Licorice, Symrise, Inc.
SymCalmin, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Granactive AR-1423, Grant Industries Inc.
Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient, Skin
Lightening, Skin Smoothing, Stimulant
ANTIOXIDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL BUFFER
Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Seed Oil
2-Methyl 5-Cyclohexylpentanol Broccoli Seed Oil, Botanic Innovations, LLC PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate
SymDeo B125, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Emollient, Hair Anti- PEL-PHOS SG, Elé Corporation
aging, Lubricant, Moisturizer Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Hair
Caprylyl Glycol Conditioner, Solubilizer, Thickener
Hydrolite CG, Symrise, Inc. Water (aqua), Glycerin, Rubus Idaeus
Additional Functions: Moisturizer (Raspberry) Fruit Extract
Actipone Raspberry (Organic) GW, Symrise, CO-EMULSIFIER
Caprylyl Glycol, Water (aqua) Inc.
Hydrolite 8, Symrise, Inc. Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, Pachyrhizus Emulsun, Floratech
o-Cymen-5-ol Erosus Root Extract Additional Functions: Emulsifier
Symocide C, Symrise, Inc. Actipone Bengkoang, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Additional Functions: Dandruff Treatment, Lanolin Alcohol
Preservative Skin Lightening, Skin Smoothing Fancol LA Superfine-P, Elementis
Additional Functions: Emulsifier,
Dimethyl Phenylbutanol Moisturizer
SymDeo MPP, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Decolorant
Isododecane, Isobutylmethacrylate/
Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate
Copolymer, Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol,
Decyl Glucoside
Gransil SiW-CRT, Grant Industries Inc.
FOAM BOOSTER/STABILIZER
Sodium Laurylglucosides
Hydroxypropylsulfonate
SugaNate 160NC, Colonial Chemical Inc.
Sericin 1,2-Hexanediol
Acacia Senegal Extract Hydrolite 6 O, Symrise, Inc.
Promois SERICIN-N, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Acacia Senegal Seed Oil, International
Additional Functions: Hair Repair,
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Water (aqua)
Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Skin Clarifier, Skin Hydromoist L, Symrise, Inc.
Cooling/Soothing, Skin Protectant, Skin
Zea Mays (Corn) Starch Smoothing
Nativacare 5600, Ingredion Inc. Pentadesma Butyracea Seed Butter
Acacia Senegal Seed Oil Organic, Kpangnan (Pentadesma) Butter,
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
HAIR REPAIR (ICSC) (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Skin Clarifier, Skin
Protectant, Skin Smoothing Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Rosa Canina
AMPD-Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, (Rosehip) Fruit Extract
Water (aqua), Alcohol Rose Hip Oil Unrefined Organic,
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Promois EU-118D, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Organic Virgin Argan Oil, Natural Sourcing
(ICSC)
Soluble Keratin
Solublekeratin SKSP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Additional Functions: Powder, Skin
Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Water (aqua), Polysorbate 20, SUNLESS TANNING AGENT UV Cut ZNO-72-NU, Grant Industries Inc.
Pentapeptide-21, Morus Alba Root Extract, Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVB
Resveratrol, Scutellaria Lateriflora Extract,
Hydrangea Arborescens Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isochrysis
Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Zinc Oxide, Dimethicone, PEG-10
Galbana Extract Dimethicone
Sorbate, Hexylene Glycol SymBronze1659, Symrise, Inc.
Granactive 1518, Grant Industries Inc. UV Cut ZnO-61-DM, Grant Industries Inc.
Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVB
SUNSCREEN-UVA
SOLUBILIZER
SURFACTANT
Titanium Dioxide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate,
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Cyclopentasiloxane, Stearic Acid,
Propylene Glycol Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Alumina Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hexyl
Solubilizer with Propylene Glycol, Symrise, Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
UV Cut TiO2-55-AC, Grant Industries Inc.
Inc. Gransurf W9, Grant Industries Inc.
Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVB
Procedure: Combine A in main kettle equipped with side sweep. Sequentially add B Reverse Your Age Serum
to A in the main kettle. Mix well before each addition.
(Grant Industries Inc.)
Nude Glow Sun Defense, SPF 50 A. Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Gransurf 90,
(Grant Industries Inc.) Grant Industries Inc.) 2.00% w/w
Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (Gransurf
A. Isododecane 20.50% w/w 50C-HM, Grant Industries Inc.) 2.00
Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Octyl Palmitate (Protachem OP, Protameen Chemicals Inc.) 10.10
Propylene Carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V, Elementis) 12.19 Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) (Granactive Retinoid, Grant Industries Inc.) 1.00
Stearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (UV Dimethicone 20.00
Cut TiO2-55-CG, Grant Industries Inc.) 20.00 Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and)
Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Propylene Carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V, Elementis) 10.00
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (UV Cut ZnO-68-CG, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone/Phenylsilsesquioxane
Grant Industries Inc.) 25.00 Crosspolymer (Granpowder EDC-600, Grant Industries Inc.) 4.00
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Isododecane (Granresin Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 9.00
PMSQ-ID, Grant Industries Inc.) 2.93 B. Water (aqua) 21.20