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Clean Beauty

Ebook 2019

Safe and
Sustainable
Silicones for
Clean Beauty

Clean Beauty
Directory and
Formulary
• Clean
• Safe
• Sustainable
• Eco-Friendly Replacing
• Bio-Based Microplastics

Sustainability Drives
Consumer Purchases

Free Ebook Sponsored By:


Market Intelligence | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• Clean beauty aligns with a variety of tenets:
minimal ingredients, consumer safety, social
responsibility, transparency, etc.

• This free “Clean Beauty E-book” combines


these approaches in one resource to
provide cosmetic formulators with a tool
for any clean beauty path(s) they follow.

Decoding
Clean Beauty
Jeb Gleason-Allured and
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Cosmetics & Toiletries

2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
C lean beauty is something everyone is talking about with-
out ever defining it. While the specifics may vary, most
retailers, brands and even consumers agree the key pillars
include: safety, sustainability, ethics and transparency.
In attempt to decode this market phenomenon, consider
this quote from Gregg Renfrew, CEO and founder of Beau-
tycounter: “[O]ur mission is to get safer products into the hands of everyone … ”
Beautycounter grew 27% between 2017-2018, and in 2018, it was the most searched
beauty brand online in the U.S., generating $320 million in sales for the year, per NPD num-
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


Consumers want products that are
thoughtfully designed for
the least possible negative impact—
as they, the shopper, define it.

bers. That makes it not only the largest digital-native oils.” Qualifying products feature a Clean at Sephora
brand, but also one of the top stand-alone brands sticker. These designations also serve to make it
in all of beauty. The brand even sent reps to Capitol easier for consumers to determine which choices are
Hill in 2018 to lobby Congress to act on preventing “best” in an increasingly crowded marketplace filled
“harmful” ingredients from being used in beauty and with countless upstart indie brands.
personal care. This activism represents a growing But not all free-from claims are embraced equal-
embrace of the precautionary principle— the world ly by consumers. For instance, Nielsen data shows
view held by many consumers and upstart brands. clean brands that eschew specific no-no ingredients
The growing reality is consumers want brands and key artificial ingredients grew by 4.2% in 2018,
and retailers to deliver products that are thoughtfully compared with brands that merely declared them-
designed to have the least possible negative impact selves artificial-free, which grew by just 2.6% in 2018.
on human health, the environment and society—as Another Nielsen report noted, “In our study … ‘free
they, the shopper, define it. This no doubt rightfully from’ claims didn’t stand out as much to consumers
rankles plenty of suppliers and chemists who are as some of the specific ingredient mentions, but over-
frustrated by the nuances and technical realities that arching ‘free from harsh chemicals’ and ‘non-toxic
are all too often lost in the conversation. But there ingredients’ themes were very believable to achieve
are ways to use emerging green technologies, safe various skin care benefits.”
synthetics, consumer education and institutional Brands that operate in the EU have an added
technical know-how to find new paths forward. challenge: The latest update to the EU’s EC No.
655/2013 regulation now prohibits free-from claims
Free From ‘Free-from’ as of July 1, 2019. The latest annex prohibits the use
What’s not in a product has become the focus of of free-from claims for ingredients prohibited by
the beauty industry in recent years. It’s no surprise, the EU Cosmetics Regulation (e.g., heavy metals);
then, that data from Nielsen shows “free-from for formulations that are merely in compliance with
artificial fragrance” brand dollar sales rose 2% in the law; for ingredients that aren’t supposed to be
2018, compared with 0.1% for the total personal present in the product; for products that leverage an
care sector. These now represent about 28.2% of the ingredient for specific attributes (e.g., preservation
total market. or fragrance) without claiming those attributes (e.g.,
Meanwhile, retailer no-no lists provide a strong an aromatic material not claimed as a fragrance),
tool of trust-building and differentiation for retailers unless that attribute is a side function of the general
of all sizes. SpaceNK, for instance, states that clean ingredient family; or for ingredients/ingredient fami-
beauty “refers to any formulation that is free from a lies that are legally used. Notably, there are instances
list of potentially harmful and irritating ingredients, where free-from claims will be allowed, including des-
and instead uses a combination of plants, vitamins, ignations for vegan products (i.e., free-from animal-
minerals and botanical extracts to help restore skin derived products).
to its optimum health and vitality.” The company
adds, “Clean also refers to products and brands that The Case for
showcase a concerted effort to manufacture more Safe Synthetics
consciously, whether it be recycled packaging or The beauty industry, just like the foods industry,
sustainable ingredients.” has suffered from the false equivalency of natural
At the same time, the Clean at Sephora program with safety. However, in the age of veganism and
features products “formulated without SLS, SLES, safe ingredients, conventional materials have a role
parabens, formaldehyde, phthalates and mineral to play. For instance, silicones are an inert, non-

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® |3


Decoding Clean Beauty

reactive technology that boosts the sensory impact marketers and savvy social media teams to advocate
of products without skin irritation. These materi- for science-based conversations about products that
als also comply with the Clean at Sephora beauty focus on safety, efficacy and value.
standards. At the same time, consumers have real
concerns about sourcing ethics when it comes to Go Blue or Go Home
naturals, with palm oil and coconut oil often in Brands in the clean/sustainable space grew rapidly
the spotlight. In fact, according to Mintel, 74% of in 2018, including Tata Harper (38%), Kopari (66%)
Spanish beauty and personal care consumers are and Coola (59%), according to NPD data. Many
concerned that ingredients used in natural products brands have adopted green practices that focus on
are not sustainable. limiting harm to people and the planet, while offering
Ethical and sustainability considerations have transparency around ingredients and business prac-
helped fuel the use of responsible synthetic op- tices. A subset of those brands have evolved further,
tions throughout the beauty industry. For instance, pushing into what’s known as blue beauty, which seeks
Mintel found synthetic beeswax appeared in 5% of to avoid harm while also addressing or undoing dam-
global makeup launches in 2018, compared with 3% age from the past.
in 2014. Carmine launches dropped from 37% to This blue mindset takes the form not just of zero
23% between 2013 and 2018. Cruelty-free makeup waste, but also of generating negative carbon foot-
brushes with synthetic fibers are also on the rise prints. Companies operating in this space will leverage
Conventional chemistry can continue to play a role closed loop concepts, as seen with some packaging
in improving the sourcing and sustainability ethics pilot programs under way with P&G, Unilever and
of the beauty industry and score points for sound others, in addition to upcycling concepts, reusable
science in the process. technologies, truly recyclable materials that won’t ulti-
mately end up in a landfill, and, interestingly, focusing
Meet the Skintellectuals on boosting the economic well-being of a wider swath
The beauty industry may have an emerging ally of society. (For more on this subject, see the July/Au-
in getting the word out about the benefits of cosmet- gust issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries).
ic ingredients of all kinds. Skintellectuals are true
beauty nerds. They’re hyper-knowledgeable about
brands, products and ingredients and are probably
least likely to utter the phrase “if I can’t pronounce
the name, I don’t want it in my products.”
The skintellectual is the answer to the over-
whelming anti-technological attitude found among
a significant number of beauty consumers who prize
natural above all else. These consumers understand
why ingredients are included in products and can
explain what, exactly, they do.
But they’re also demanding. They want formulas
that work hard and deliver clinic-standard results
at-home. These consumers can also be leveraged by

4 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


This activity, paired with transparency, has a payoff. Accord-
ing to NPD data, 78% of consumers trust transparent brands more
than conventional companies, while 73% are willing to pay more for
products from transparent brands.

Label to Lab: 7 Strategies


What does clean beauty mean from a technical standpoint?
Initiated by food consumers, this movement started with the “clean
label” mindset. It meant omitting artificial flavors and colors; using
pure and safe ingredients; and minimizing additives, which ultimate-
ly shortened ingredient lists to the essentials—especially those with
familiar-sounding names. Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Similarly, clean beauty follows many of the same tenets: remov- C&T Managing Editor
ing unnecessary ingredients; ensuring user and environmental safety;
transparently disclosing what’s in a product, etc. To formulators,
clean beauty products exhibit roughly seven characteristics, some or 2019 CLEAN BEAUTY E-BOOK
all of which may be employed in a given product:
1. Simplified Formulas, meaning going back to the basics, opti-
mizing for efficacy and leveraging multifunctional solutions. CONTENTS
2. Natural (Safer) Ingredients. While it begs the question, since
marketed products must be tested for safety before entering the mar-
ket, naturals often are preferred as they are presumed safer. They 2 Decoding Clean Beauty
J. Gleason-Allured and R. Grabenhofer
are also more familiar-sounding to consumers, which translates as
simpler.
3. Responsibly Sourced, i.e., derived in an ethical, thoughtful 6 Sustainability: The Driving Force
and sustainable manner. Behind Consumer Purchases
I. Matthews
4. Safe for the User; see #2 above; notably the case can be made
for synthetic ingredients, which some research suggests could be
safer as they contain fewer contaminants than natural extracts. 10 Replacing Microplastics:
5. Safe for the Environment; biodegradable, eco-friendly, etc. Natural Cellulose Offers Gentle and
6. Effective; although the above tenets may be expected, the Biodegradable Exfoliation
A. Hueneke, et al.
bottom line is: it still must be effective. In some cases, marketers
have found that combining synthetics with naturals provides a good
balance for both the label and the formula. 20 Safe and Sustainable:
7. Transparent; regardless of the tactics you take to formulate How Silicones Match the
clean beauty products, it’s important to clearly communicate the
Clean Beauty Mindset
C. Granatel and J. Gormley
contents of a product on its label. This empowers consumers to
purchase based on truth, closing the product cycle with their belief
in your product. 28 Clean Beauty Ingredients

Free E-book
Combining these aspects of what clean beauty could mean to 42 Clean Beauty Demo Formulas
the formulator, Cosmetics & Toiletries offers this free Clean Beauty
Ebook, sponsored by Grant Industries. It features articles on sustain-
ability, replacing microbeads, and silicones as a safe synthetic option
46 Supplier Directory

for clean beauty. It also includes an ingredient directory highlight-


ing products with clean, safe, alternative/replacement, sustainable
and other clean beauty-related descriptors, taken from our online
Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference. Finally, the ebook presents
a formulary of examples incoporating silicones for clean beauty
concepts; additional ingredients, formulas and articles on this sub-
ject are available through our free magazine, website, directory and
multimedia channels. Download the free Clean Beauty Ebook today.

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® |5


Market Intelligence | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• Fifty-one percent of consumers globally
say their beauty and grooming product
choices are influenced by the brand’s level of
social responsibility.

• What has changed in recent years is that large


multinationals and conventional brands are
now investing in sustainability.

Sustainability
The Driving Force Behind
Beauty Consumer Purchases*

A
*Republished with permission from Global Cosmetic Industry, 2017: www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/natural/
Sustainability-Is-Driving-Beauty-Consumer-Purchases-409565475.html

t the heart of the argument for the creation of new sus-


tainability protocols and standards are the changing
Imogen Matthews
demands of the beauty and personal care consumer.
Consultant to in-cosmetics New research from Canadean1 confirms that 51% of
consumers globally say their beauty and grooming
product choices are often or always influenced by how
environmentally friendly/socially responsible the brand is.
“Living ethically is of growing importance to today’s consumers, particu-
larly as awareness of social and environmental issues grows,” said Jamie
Mills, analyst at Canadean. “This can be attributed to the accessibility to
information, as well as those issues being at the forefront of global and

6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty Ebook


national agendas. In turn, this concern is
trickling down to influence the choices of Sustainability is a nebulous
today’s consumers.”
Mills argued that accreditation for term but has been moving
issues such as fair trade and recyclable
packaging are an imperative, as is greater up the public’s political and
action by brands to include sustainability
initiatives at the product level and across economic agenda.
the wider brand ethos.

Beauty’s
Sustainability Leaders P&G has made a commitment to have zero
So which brands are doing it best? Sus- waste to landfill; it currently has 68 zero-waste
tainability pioneer Weleda, for example, has manufacturing sites across the globe.”
undertaken ethical sourcing of raw materials
for decades, while Neal’s Yard Remedies was Less is More
the first UK high street retailer to go carbon Sometimes, brands come unstuck when
neutral. Neal’s Yard Remedies purchases car- taking a particular stance. Taking parabens
bon offsets from wind power projects in India out of formulations, for example, was once
and China, supplied by The CarbonNeutral a ploy used to sell products. Only two of
Company, and has devised a “Carbon Action the parabens in use in the industry actually
Plan” to deliver its carbon emission reductions. showed mild toxicity upon scientific review,
The brand uses its CarbonNeutral certification but now microbiome science is again bringing
in advertising, catalogs, shop windows and the issue of preservation back into focus.2
its website. However, Marie Alice Dibon, founder of
“What has changed in recent years is that Alice Communications Inc., explained that
large multinationals and conventional brands companies that jump on the latest sustain-
are also now investing in sustainability,” said ability issue often do so without correct
Amarjit Sahota, CEO of Organic Monitor. “It is knowledge of the science behind it.
common for many such companies to develop “Understand it,” she advised. “Hire the peo-
natural lines (reflecting green formulations), ple that can help you communicate internally
reducing packaging footprints, etc.” about it, informing all levels. Not everyone
Another approach is for companies to “buy needs a Ph.D. in science but everyone who
green expertise,” such as Unilever’s purchase of works in our industry needs to understand at
the green brand Seventh Generation, with the least the basics and follow the news.”
plan to re-engineer its product formulations.
Authentically Sustainable
Waste Not According to Dibon, authenticity and ethics
Beauty companies including Unilever and are values that run throughout an organiza-
P&G are recognizing the commercial benefits tion but are tricky to communicate.
of reducing energy use and water footprints “They’re not [just] injected into a product
and optimizing waste management. one morning because we choose to convey
Grupo Boticário, the second largest cosmet- them now,” she explained.
ics company in Brazil, has switched to green Dibon believes the beauty industry needs to
polyethylene packaging for its Cuide-se Bem be proactive in setting industry guidelines as
brand. The polyethylene is made from sugar, well as labels to reassure the consumer. If the
rather than petroleum, saving more than 90 big players apply best practices, they will pull
tons of plastics per year. the industry up as a whole.
“There are also cost benefits since moving to “We can’t make the same mistake we did
eco-design, as there is 10% less plastic material with organic products,” she warned, “with too
used in the packaging,” said Sahota. “Similarly, many certifications in the European Union

2019 Clean Beauty Ebook www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® |7


Sustainability

and not enough in the United States.” and political unrest continue to have a
She added, “A good social media policy profound effect on consumers’ lives.
is essential as it helps with transparency. “Key environmental and social issues
But there is no magic bullet and it will the planet faces today are not the same
take time.” as those it faced 20 or 10 years ago,” said
Sahota. “The same will be true in five to 10
Sustainability’s Evolution years’ time.”
Sustainability is a nebulous term but
has been moving up the public’s political References
and economic agenda as businesses adopt 1. Candean, Organic Monitor and Marie Alice Dibon delivered
responsible practices toward the sourc- marketing trends presentations at the 2017 in-cosmetics
Global event in London.
ing and manufacturing of their products.
In beauty, it began with a move toward 2. Read more at skininc.com/skinscience/
natural and/or organic formulations, and ingredients/Ingredient-Hysteria-and-
Misconceptions-238484541.html
has since moved on to sourcing ingredi-
ents ethically and producing eco-friendly
packaging.
For example, Unilever has undertaken
advertising campaigns that emphasize
good social causes as part of its Sustain-
able Living Plan, which aims to expand
the company’s business while reducing its
environmental footprint. The program,
which achieved an overall score of 92
out of a possible 100 on the Dow Jones
Sustainability Index, recently partnered
with ingredient supplier Symrise, Deutsche
Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammen- Sustainability:
Not If But How
arbeit (GIZ) GmbH, and Save the Children
to improve the livelihoods of vanilla farm-
ing communities in Madagascar.
Similarly, L’Oréal has made a commit- Some actions aren’t voluntary but mandatory.
ment with its Sharing Beauty With All Breathing, eating, sleeping. . .sustaining. And
companies have accepted this fact, if for no other
pledge. Recently, the company was granted
reason than maintaining profitability. Some have even
an “A” rating by the nonprofit group CDP fully embraced it, not only in theory but in practice.
for fighting deforestation, “especially for its
However, according to a report by the SustainAbility
sustainable sourcing actions of raw materi-
think tank, a company’s future success lies not in
als [such as palm oil and timber], used in whether they have adopted sustainable practices, but
its product packaging and formulas.” in how they are implementing them.
“A key measure of corporate leadership will be
The Future of Sustainability to demonstrate how to move from ambitious goals
The growing refugee crisis, economic to ambitious implementation,” said Earth Security
migrants in Europe and the United States, Group’s Alejandro Litovsky, in an interview.
the rise of far-right political parties and
Brexit—all of these issues will impact on
the way brands do business in the future. C&T Webcasts
As a result, Organic Monitor has forecasted Llisten to our podcast with James Clark, Ph.D.
that social issues will feature more promi- www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
nently in sustainability in the future, as
social inequality, developing world poverty

8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty Ebook


THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE
FOR PERFORMANCE
Whether you’re formulating a standard personal care product or looking
for the next texture innovation, Grant works ahead of the competition
to deliver the formulation solutions you need. With an extensive portfolio
of quality ingredients combined with our dedication to customer
service, we deliver the performance needed to stay ahead in a
competitive marketplace.

ABOUT
Grant Industries is involved in the research, development, manufacturing,
and marketing of specialty performance ingredients. A leading global
provider to the personal care and beauty industry, Grant Industries
dedicates its business on providing materials that are safe for consumer
use with superior quality.

FOLLOW US ON

@grant.industries
We have collaborated with selected social media influencers and
bloggers to help educate consumers on the many positive benefits that
silicones provide in beauty products. Please visit www.grantinc.com
/cleanbeauty for more information as well as on our IG page.

For more information, please contact your


Grant Industries’ representative or info@grantinc.com.
Formulating | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• While cosmetics represent a small source
of primary and secondary microplastics
in the environment, it is a source that
could easily be avoided by using natural
biodegradable alternatives.
• As such, described herein is a research
project to identify a natural, biodegradable
alternative for peel applications. Plant
cellulose was of particular interest.

Reproduction in English or any other language of


10 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article all
is strictly
or part prohibited. © 2019
of this article Allured
is strictly Business Media.
prohibited. Vol. 133, No. 7 | July/August 2018
© 2018 Allured Business Media.
Replacing
Microplastics
Natural Cellulose Offers Gentle and
Biodegradable Exfoliation
Alessa Huneke and Judith Ryll
CFF GmbH & Co. KG, Gehren, Germany
Sandra Sarembe, Ph.D., Vanessa Sternitzke, Ph.D., and
Andreas Kiesow, Ph.D.
Fraunhofer Institute for Microstructure of Materials and
Systems IMWS, Halle, Germany

W e live in a
time when
our oceans
are lit-
tered with
plastics.
According to the literature, as much as three
times more plastic than fish may be in our
oceans by 2050.1–4 Microfine plastic particles
find their way back via wastewater to the
sea and into our food chain. This occurs
because, with a size of less than 5 mm, the
concerns. First, microplastics can
attract environmental toxins due to their
surface characteristics. Throughout
their lifetime, plastic particles’ surfaces
become rougher, potentially acting as
magnets for other harmful substances
present in the environment.5 If these
toxins and microplastic particles are
ingested by sea organisms and released
into their gastro-intestinal systems, the
organisms may experience negative
effects such as tissue changes, inflam-
particles are too small for effective removal matory reactions, toxicological impacts,
by wastewater treatment plants. They are internal injuries and even death.6
almost non-biodegradable and can be harm- Secondly, the morphological character-
ful to marine life. istics of the particles themselves may
The hazard potential of microplastics pose threats.7
is mainly characterized by the following

2019 Clean Beauty Ebook www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 11


Replacing Microplastics

There are still significant scientific challenges


to finding replacements for
microplastic particles.

Based on these risks and consumer con- alternative with good efficacy. The first objec-
cern, the use of microplastic particles, i.e., tive was to define the criteria for the desired
microbeads, in personal care products has been characteristics, to produce optimal replace-
prohibited in the United States as of January ments for specific microplastic particles.
2018. The British government also banned per- This included finding the ideal size, shape,
sonal care products containing microplastics as hardness and surface morphologies, to obtain
of January 2018, and several additional countries the desired characteristics without causing
in the EU are discussing similar bans. skin irritation.
While efforts are being made to phase them From this information, biodegradable
out, microplastics are still used in some cosmetic cellulose particles were derived from various
products; most commonly exfoliants. As soft sources and modified using a milling and
abrasives, these formulas help to remove dead grinding technology. Their microstructures
skin cells and stimulate blood circulation. In were analyzed, and their abrasion and clean-
addition, microplastics are used in some coun- ing effects were tested for applicability in
tries as abrasive particles for dental care.8 facial exfoliants and toothpastes. This article
It is true that cosmetics represent a small presents the results of these tests in relation to
source of primary and secondary microplastics facial exfoliants.
in the environment, compared with other
sources. One report showed 4,300 tons of Material and Methods
microplastic particles were used in EU personal Natural cellulose and reference particles:
care products in 2012.9 However, it is a source Generally, the cellulose particles used in this
that could easily be avoided using natural or studya-c were made from organic and renew-
biodegradable alternatives. able raw materials. Natural cellulose particles
Yet, there are still significant scientific chal- vary in terms of their particle shape and size,
lenges to finding replacements for microplastic which enables different functionalities in line
particles. Alternatives must satisfy requirements with the specific targets of cosmetic applica-
for cleansing effects but also be biodegradable tions. Cellulose from different natural sources
and available at moderate costs. Several attempts was tested, including beecha, oatb and wheatc.
have been made to replace plastic microbeads Reference particles including silica and
using natural particles such as hydrogenated polyethylene were used for comparison.
waxes, silica, sugar, salt and crushed plant stones Exfoliant formulas: In vitro measurements
or nut shells.10 However, their scientific features for abrasion and cleansing effects were per-
and effects have room for improvement. formed with a water-based exfoliant formula
As such, described herein is a research (see Formula 1). As noted, cellulose particles
project to identify a natural, biodegradable were compared with polyethylene and stan-
dard silica abrasives in identical formulations,
each including a different particle at 3%. Two
The global exfoliators and scrubs market market references containing polyethylene and
is projected to grow at a CAGR of 4.68% silica also were used as benchmarks.
between 2016 and 2020. Morphological characterization of
cellulose particles: Characterization of the

a
Sensocel 100G and 200G globular beech cellulose particles,
Source: ResearchandMarkets b
Sensocel oc 30G globular oat cellulose particles and
c
Sensocel wc 200G globular wheat cellulose particles are products of
CFF GmbH & Co. KG

12 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty Ebook


particles was carried out by scanning electron holder by double-sided adhesive tape, to which
microscopy (SEM)d. To avoid charging effects, 0.1 g of makeuph was applied and distributed
the particles were coated with an ultra-thin homogenously with a squeegee (15 µm gap).
platinum film by magnetron sputtering. Measurements were performed 24 hr
Validation of biodegradability: Biode- after application of the makeup. One gram of
gradability was verified according to DIN EN exfoliant formulation and 1 mL of water were
14851 under fresh water conditions. This is applied onto the synthetic skin leather in the
accomplished by determining the ultimate sample holder. The brushing unit was equipped
aerobic biodegradability in an aqueous medium with a makeup sponge fixed on a silicone
by measuring the oxygen demand in a closed layer. The number of strokes was adapted to
respirometer. Cellulose particles were tested in 10. Evaluations determining cleansing perfor-
comparison with polyethylene beads and stan- mance were made in accordance with those
dard silica of similar particle sizes and shapes. determining abrasion.
Silica was included as a reference as it became Colorimetric data for the different treat-
established as one of the most-used natural ments were compared using one-way analysis
alternatives to polyethylene in exfoliants. of variance (ANOVA) and the Tukey HSD-test.
Abrasion and cleansing efficacy tests: Tests
to determine abrasion and cleansing efficacy Results:
were performed in a brushing simulatore at a SEM Characterization
pressure of 150 g with a 1 cm hub. Mechanical
Depending on the choice of materials as well
abrasion was evaluated on a glass substrate (25
as milling and sieving process during manu-
× 25 mm2) coated with a 1-µm layer of chrome.
facturing, cellulose particles of different sizes
This coating was deemed to be the most
(20–800 µm) and shapes (globular and fibrous)
reproducible variant in pre-tests. The substrates
can be generated. Figure 1 shows select SEM
were fixed on a sample holder (75 × 25 mm2) by
images of representative cellulose particles and
double-sided adhesive tape.
the reference particles (silica and polyethylene).
Before brushing, the coating was briefly
The polyethylene particles investigated had a
wetted with water under standardized condi-
size of 50-100 µm, whereas the silica varied
tions.One gram of the exfoliant formulation was
between 50 µm and 80 µm.
applied to the sample holder. The slurry was
renewed after 30 min. The brushing unite was h
Perfect Stay Foundation 24 hr + Perfect Skin Primer, Astor
equipped with a silicone
layer onto which a
synthetic leatherf surface Formula 1. Exfoliant Cleanser Formula
(25 × 25 mm ) was fixed
2

to simulate skin. Abra-


siveness was determined A. Water (aqua) 64.30% w/w
by colorimetric measure- Xanthan Gum 1.10
mentsg (DE) on the glass Glycerine 4.00
substrate as well as by B. Decyl Glucoside 13.00
visual comparison prior Coco Glucoside 3.00
to and after brushing for Cocoamidopropyl Betaine 7.00
10,000 strokes. Methyl Gluceth-10 3.00
Analysis of the cleans- Sodium Benzoate 1.50
ing effects also was made Cleansing particles 3.00
on synthetic skin leatherf C. Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
(75 × 25 mm) as the sub- Citric Acid, 50% qs
strate, fixed on a sample 100.00

d
Quanta 3D FEG, FEI
e
ZM-3.8, SD-Mechatronic Procedure: Suspend xanthan gum in glycerine. Add water at 50°C and stir with blade
agitator until homogenous. Wait 30-60 min until swelling is complete. Homogenize if
f
TE610, Hornschuch
necessary. Add B to A in order, stirring until homogenous. Adjust pH value with C to 5.8-6.1
g
Spectrophotometer CM-3600A,
(~ 545 µL ad. 100 g).
Konica Minolta


2019 Clean Beauty Ebook www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 13
Replacing Microplastics

a) b) c)

d) e) f)

a) Globular beech cellulose particles (100 mm); b) globular beech cellulose particles (300 mm); c) globular oat cellulose particles;
d) globular wheat cellulose particles; e) polyethylene (PE); and f) silica

Figure 1. SEM image of cellulose particles, polyethylene and silica from beech wood

Figure 2. Biodegradability according to DIN EN 14851 of cellulose particles with varying


shape from different origin, in comparison with silica and PE

14 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty Ebook


Attempts have been made to replace
plastic microbeads using
hydrogenated waxes, silica, sugar,
salt and crushed plant stones or nut shells.

Results: Biodegradability significantly lower abrasion in comparison


The results of biodegradability tests are with silica (p < 0.001). The abrasion behavior
depicted in Figure 2, which show the distribu- of the cellulose particles was comparable to
tion of the non-degraded residue and degraded polyethylene particles and to commercial
parts of the particles after a time of 39 days. product 1, which also contained polyethylene
Depending on the origin and shape of the (p > 0.001). The most abrasive sample was
cellulose particle, its biodegradability ranged commercial product 2, containing silica.
between 78–100% after 1–2 months. While The measurements also showed that
cellulose will always degrade at 100%,11 PE different cellulose particle sizes produced
particles are non-biodegradable12 and silica different exfoliation levels. The combination
does not degrade due to its mineral origin. of two particles with different sizes, notably
globular beech cellulose at 100 µm and 300
Results: Abrasion Efficacy µm, resulted in higher abrasion, in compari-
The results for abrasion are shown in son with the individual abrasiveness of each of
Figure 3. All tested cellulose particles showed these particles.

2019 Clean Beauty Ebook www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 15


Replacing Microplastics

Results:
Cleansing
Efficacy
The results for
cleansing efficacy are
represented in Figure 4,
which are confirmed by
the visual comparison in
Figure 5. Here, cellulose
particles had a cleansing
effect in cosmetic prod-
ucts that was comparable
to that of polyethylene or
silica. Significantly lower
cleansing efficacy was
found for commercial
product 1 and water.

Discussion
The results for abra-
sion and cleaning efficacy
indicate that biodegrad-
able cellulose represents
Figure 3. Abrasion of different cleansing bodies measured an ingredient with
optimal characteristics
by change in color (ΔE)
for dermal cleansing par-
ticles. Cellulose showed
very low abrasion on the
skin and a mild, gentle
cleansing effect. In addi-
tion, cleansing effects
matched those of low
abrasive polyethylene.
While standard silica
shows good cleansing
effects, its high abrasion
must be considered.
This effect is of par-
ticular concern as the
effects of pollution and
its impact on skin are
being elucidated.

Summary
This study aimed to
identify, optimize and
analyze natural cellulose
particles for their use as
environmentally friendly,
biodegradable alterna-
Figure 4. Cleaning efficacy (%) of different cleansing bodies tives to microplastics in
cosmetics and personal

16 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty Ebook


What is Clean Beauty?
Clean Beauty is all about ingredient safety over source incorporating both synthetic and natural
materials. While maybe a surprise to many not all natural ingredients are safe and not all
synthetic ingredients are unsafe. With Clean Beauty, brands are focused on not using materials
that are known to be harmful or irritating but instead ones that are safe and efficacious.

Why do silicones fit into Clean Beauty?


Along with their safety, enhanced performance of active ingredients, compatibility with other
materials including naturals, and the unmatched sensory acceptance, silicones are extremely
valuable and desired for cosmetic formulations. Besides the basic cosmetic products, silicones
are used extensively in OTC, baby care, medical applications, and sensitive skin products
due to their non-irritating characteristics. Silicones are also not animal derived and therefore
approved by vegans as a cruelty free materials. They are not related to palm and RSPO issues
and are certified as GMO free. The types of silicones used in cosmetic products are supported
by scientific research and are considered extremely safe for consumer use. Silicones are
effective, inert, and versatile ingredients that benefit skin and hair in numerous ways.

Includes scientific information and expert industry opinion


as to why silicones support the Clean Beauty ideology.
Replacing Microplastics

Figure 5. Visual comparison of the cleaning results on synthetic skin leather: a) initially; b) with
makeup; c) with water; d) with 3% beech cellulose 1; e) with 3% beech cellulose 2; f) with 2% beech
cellulose 1 + 1% beech cellulose 2; g) with 3% polyethylene; h) with 3% silica; i) with commercial product
1 and polyethylene; and j) with commercial product 2 including silica

care products. The results indicate cellulose 5. M Llorca et al, Adsorption of perfluoroalkyl substances on
microplastics under environmental conditions, Envt Pollution
scrubs offer optimal characteristics including 235 (2018) 680–691
low abrasion with high cleansing efficacy. Thus, 6. MA Browne et al, Microplastic moves pollutants and
cellulose represents a mild, patch-test approved additives to worms, reducing functions linked to health and
and non-irritating alternative to other natural biodiversity, Current Biol 23 (2013) 2388-2392

scrubs and shows 100% biodegradability. 7. SL Wright et al, The physical impacts of microplastics on
marine organisms: A review, Envt Pollution 178 (2013)
483-492
Acknowledgements: Funding by Project Management Jülich
8. T Gouin et al, Use of micro-plastic beads in cosmetic
(PTJ) and German Federal Ministry of Education and Research
products in Europe and their estimated emissions to the
(BMBF), project#: 031B0041A, 031B0041B, 031B0041C is greatly
North Sea environment, SÖFW 3 (2015)
acknowledged. We would also like to thank Skinomics GmbH
from Halle (Saale), who was mainly responsible for developing the 9. http://mcc.jrc.ec.europa.eu/document.
exfoliant formulations as well for the galenic and dermatological py?code=201606243248&title=Study%20to%20sup-
port%20the%20development%20of%20measures%20
testing of formulations.
to%20combat%20a%20range%20of%20marine%20lit-
ter%20sources (Accessed Jun 7, 2018)
References 10. R Mantilla and S Venkataraman, Feeling the power of
nature, COSSMA 7–8 (2017) pp 13-14
1. M Eriksen et al, Plastic pollution in the world’s oceans: More
than 5 trillion plastic pieces weighing over 250,000 tons 11. J Pérez et al, Biodegradation and biological treatments of
afloat at sea, PLoS One 9(12) (2014) doi: 10.1371/journal. cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin: An overview, Int Micro-
pone.0111913 biol 5 53–63 (2002) doi 10.1007/s10123-002-0062-3
2. KL Law et al, Distribution of surface plastic debris in the 12. Y Tokiwa et al, Biodegradability of plastics, Int J Mol Sci
eastern Pacific Ocean from an 11-year data set, Environ Sci 10(9) 3722–3742 (2009)
Technol 48(9) 4732–4738 (2014) doi: 10.1021/es4053076
3. AL Andrady et al, Microplastics in the marine environment,
Mar Pollut Bull 62(8) (2011) pp 1596-605 doi: 10.1016/j.
marpolbul.2011.05.030
4. L Lechner et al, The Danube so colourful: A potpourri of C&T Daily Newsletter
plastic litter outnumbers fish larvae in Europe’s second
largest river, Facets 188 (2014) pp 177-181 Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
delivered straight to your inbox everyday!

http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter

18 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty Ebook


Featuring the unparalleled skin safety, versatility, and
performance benefits of silicones in personal care applications

THE POLYSILICONE-11® ADVANTAGE:


• Unparalleled skin safety (non-irritating, non-comedogenic, OTC and medical applications)
• Reliability and reproducibility (odorless, colorless, consistent quality, chemically stable)
• Exceptional sensory performance (proven consumer soft touch experience and acceptance)
• Enhanced delivery of actives (stabilizing matrix improves efficacy)
• Multifunctional value-added benefits (a sensorial modifier with optical light diffusing properties)
• Versatile delivery substrate options to meet various formulation requirements
See below for our new GRANSIL
ALKANE-BASED ELASTOMER SERIES!
SILICONE EDUCATION AND FACTS:
• Silicones are synthetic molecules containing silicon atoms. Silicon and oxygen are the two most abundant elements (by
weight) found on the earth’s crust. In nature silicon exists as silica, silicone dioxides and silicates in the form of sand, clays,
and other minerals.
• Silicones are polymers which include synthetic compounds made up of repeating units of siloxane - a chain of alternating
silicon atoms and oxygen atoms, frequently combined with carbon or hydrogen or both.
• There are many types of silicone-based ingredients and not all should be classified the same way. Silicone reactive
intermediates are very different from silicone elastomer polymers and silicone cyclic and linear fluids.

ABOUT POLYSILICONE-11® CHEMISTRY:


• Polysilicone-11® is a large molecular weight inert crosslinking polymer prepared from silicone intermediates.
• Polysilicone-11® has no negative health or safety concerns. This elastomer offers maximum safety by remaining on the skins’
surface as a sensorial and visual modifier delivery substrate to enhance the performance of cosmetic formulations.
• Polysilicone-11® swells in the presents of volatile and non-volatile silicones, alkanes and other solvents to form a gelatinous
suspension of silky soft particles which are dispersible in creams, lotions, gels and makeup formulations.

THE BENEFITS OF NATURE AND SCIENCE COMBINED


PRODUCTS INCI OPTIONS/PERFORMANCE

Plant-origin high volatile emollient gel with flash point


GRANSIL GVL-LITE C9-12 Alkane (and) Polysilicone-11
of 65C
Plant-origin medium volatile emollient gel with flash
GRANSIL GVL-912 C9-12 Alkane (and) Polysilicone-11
point of 75C
Plant-origin low volatile emollient gel with flash point
GRANSIL OGH Undecane (and) Tridecane (and) Polysilicone-11
of 81C

C13-15 Alkane (and) Stearoxymethicone/Di- Fermented plant-origin modified alkane in a copolymer


GRANSIL SUG methicone Copolymer gel structure with flash point of 110C

*All GRANSIL ALKANE-BASED ELASTOMER materials are globally compliant and vegan.
Formulating | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• Silicones have a long and safe history of
use in cosmetics, which underscores their
relevance to the clean beauty movement.

• Yet, the industry is at odds with negative


perceptions of silicones. This is due, in
part, to misleading claims. The present
article reinforces the redeeming qualities of
these materials and highlights the need for
public-facing transparency, education and
advocacy to bridge the gap with consumers.

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

20 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
facebook.com/CandTmagazine www.grantinc.com
Cosmetics & Toiletries 2019
@cosmeticsandtoiletries Clean Beauty Ebook
Safe and
Sustainable How Silicones Match the Clean Beauty Mindset

A
Charles Granatell and John Gormley
Grant Industries, Elmwood Park, NJ, USA

ccording to a report from


The Benchmarking Com-
pany, 68% of consumers
buy natural and organic
products, and of those
surveyed, 95% said they
buy more natural products than they did 10 years
ago.1 Why? Because, as is well-known, they are often
considered by the consumer to be safer for both the
user and the environment—though clearly, this may
not always be the case.
Indeed, studies suggest atopic dermatitis has
been on the rise since the 1960s,2 and while this may
be due in part to the rise in environmental pollut-
ants, the fact that consumers are using more natural
products suggests there could be more to this story.
Naturally derived ingredients such as essential
oils are chemically complex, and their constituents
can vary from crop to crop, season to season, etc.
Therefore, if their purity is not carefully controlled,
or even in cases where it is, they can pose a risk
for allergenicity, especially to those consumers
with sensitivities.
Even jojoba oil, for example, which is ubiquitous
in sensitive care products, has been implicated in
contact dermatitis and sensitization.3 According to
a report published in the Journal of the American
Academy of Dermatology, “With the increase of
[jojoba oil] usage, it is well to be aware of its pres-
ence as a potential sensitizer. We have encountered
contact dermatitis in individuals who used it on their
Editor’s note: Some may wonder why silicones are in a book about
clean beauty. Considering the science, however, it seems that one would scalps, either as a shampoo or hair conditioner, as
be remiss to omit these ingredients, which have a long history of safe use, well as in others who applied it to glabrous skin,
are sustainable in nature and offer unmatched esthetics to formulations. either in creams or as pure oil.”

2019 Clean Beauty Ebook www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 21


Safe and Sustainable

One requirement for clean beauty remains


consistent: ingredient safety, be it for the
user or the environment.

Here, the researchers found that of six Regarding the latter point, the European
individuals suspected to be sensitive to jojoba Union took steps to do exactly that—i.e., pro-
oil, five developed erythema or erythema and vide transparency—when it announced it would
vesicles on their forearms within 24 hr or 48 hr require brands to list commonly identified
after patch-testing with it. Notably, comparative allergens on ingredient listings.4 Subsequently,
patches using pure olive oil, pure mineral oil or multinationals such as P&G have followed suit.5
muslin cloth alone were negative. As a control,
28 patients with no known sensitivities were Clean Beauty Defined
patch-tested using muslin soaked in pure jojoba Just as Whole Foods set the stage for organic
oil, and no reactions were elicited after 72 hr. product claims,6 Sephora has defined clean
Furthermore, while consumer demand rises beauty7 in what could become the future direc-
for natural products, at the same time, 95% of tion for the cosmetics industry. According to the
consumers surveyed cite product efficacy as the company’s website, “Clean is simple: the beauty
most important factor when choosing a prod- you want, minus the ingredients you might
uct. While strides have been made to develop not.” It adds that, to get it right, the company
naturally derived materials with improved “scoured the scene, met with brand founders
functionality, the gold standard especially for and experts, and asked [the consumer] exactly
esthetics is still silicones. what [they’re] looking for in clean beauty.”
As a result, the cosmetic industry has Sephora notes, “When you spot our Clean
evolved to support these market priorities for seal, you can be sure we’ve checked that this
safety and performance, as well as responsible brand’s products don’t include the ingredients
sourcing. “You want a product to be both you’d most like to do without.” The current list
efficacious and safe,” said Margarita Arriagada, includes the sulfates SLS and SLES, parabens,
former chief merchant of Sephora. “But just formaldehydes, formaldehyde-releasing agents,
because something is natural, doesn’t neces- phthalates, mineral oil, retinyl palmitate,
sarily mean it’s good for you. The promised oxybenzone, coal tar, hydroquinone, triclosan
land is safe and effective. …and the entire and triclocarban; though without additional
beauty industry needs to be transparent,” says explanation beyond consumers feedback.
Arriagada, “That is clear.” Interestingly, Sephora’s definition is more about
what clean beauty is not than what it is. The
company notes it will continue to update this
ingredient list as the clean movement grows.

Clean is a term popping up more and more. Silicone Chemistry


It generally describes products that are free- While consumers and leading retailers are
from certain ingredients but definitely does not still hammering out the definition, one require-
mean all natural or organic. ment for clean beauty remains consistent:
ingredient safety, be it for the user or the envi-
ronment. And as most formulators are aware,
Source: Sarah Jindal, Mintel
silicones are inert, non-reactive ingredients
derived from quartz; i.e., sand. These colorless,

22 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty Ebook


odorless and non-ionic materials exhibit no formulations but today’s technologies can
oxidation issues and often are used to provide provide differentiated benefits with a range
unique sensorial attributes in formulas without of volatilities and physical characteristics.
causing irritation.8 In fact, silicones are some Specifically, elastomer chemistry created by
of the most innocuous ingredients known, cross-linking linear polymers has been a sig-
as evidenced by nearly 70 years of research nificant development in the cosmetics industry.
and consumer use history.9 Due to their Advances in silicone emulsifier chemistries
low incidence of allergies, hospitals rely on also have expanded the capabilities of silicone
silicone-based dressings for wound care. And elastomers in formulations and extended
in the consumer market, over-the-counter skin their use.11, 12
protectants and silicone scar sheets are sold for
FDA-approved scar prevention. Silicones in Formulation
Though silicones began as basic linear The introduction of silicone elastomers
polymer systems of polydimethylsilocane (INCI: to the cosmetics industry offered unique
dimethicone), or more volatile, shorter cyclic replacements and modification properties for
silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, technolo- traditional high oil and fatty alcohol systems,
gies have evolved to develop various forms from which dominated formulations for most of
these main backbones. Derivatives that were the 20th century. This allowed formulations
made from phenyl substituted silicones, such to deliver exceptional aesthetics while provid-
as phenyl trimethicone, also gave the industry ing additional benefits such as soft focus and
more options for less volatile applications, line-filling, without the oiliness attributed to
compared with most linear systems.10 traditional systems.
In the past, the molecular weight would When linear polymers are chemically
dictate a silicone’s viscosity and utility within altered into a cross-linked matrix, the resulting

2019 Clean Beauty Ebook www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 23


Safe and Sustainable

crosspolymers, dimethicone/vinyl dimethi-


cone crosspolymers or polysilicone modified
The long-reigning silicone.12 Commercially available silicone

natural and green


elastomers are offered in both gel and powder
forms. They can be designed as hard or soft,

movement must for use in product types ranging from compact


makeup to serums.

shift to prioritize Additional Claims


safety and efficacy, Since silicones are derived from quartz,
they are inherently sustainable. They are also
not just all-natural non-animal-derived, making them vegan and
cruelty-free by default. They omit palm-derived
claims. materials as well, alleviating concerns over
unsustainable or unethical sourcing practices.
These factors support additional marketing
claims that align with the clean beauty con-
sumer’s mindset.
elastomer becomes insoluble in most solvents.
As such, silicone elastomers can swell in a Addressing Objections
solvent vehicle with varying expandability that In the interest of transparency, while the
is proportionate to the number of cross-links benefits and safety of silicones have been reiter-
present in the elastomer. In many cases, these ated above, it is important to consider why
elastomers create a mattifying effect upon silicones were denounced in the first place. Two
application, providing a smooth, soft and even main claims have misled the public about sili-
skin appearance. Elastomer powders also cones: buildup on hair and in the environment.
provide distinctive aesthetic properties that can Hair concerns: In online forums, com-
range from smooth and silky, to powdery with a plaints had emerged around silicones weighing
dry yet soft finish. down long hair. This issue was traced to the
Another attribute provided by silicone elas- overuse of two-in-one-type shampoos that
tomers is sebum absorption13 without the risk contain high molecular weight silicone gums in
of over-drying and irritating the skin, compared combination with cationic polymers to enhance
with alcohol and other lipid-stripping solvents. the deposition of these gums.
This makes silicone elastomers a popular choice Today, two-in-one shampoos are not as
for anti-acne products. In relation, silicone popular as they used to be, at least for women
elastomer materials have a low irritancy profile with long hair, since the market has shifted dra-
and provide a safe barrier on the skin. This low matically, since then. However, the silicone-free
irritancy is true for most silicones and as such, demand remains, for now, due to this percep-
as noted, they are used in the medical field tion of silicones building up on hair.
thanks to their safety profile.14 Environmental concerns: The environ-
Elastomers can also entrap actives or mental impact of silicones also is widely
fragrances in their matrix, enabling the misunderstood. While it is true that cyclomethi-
elastomers to act as delivery vehicles within cones are restricted to limited amounts—and in
formulas. The release of an active or substance rinse-off applications only in the United King-
from the matrix can be stimulated by shear or dom due to concerns over persistence—most
by diffusion when applied on the skin. Besides formulators know the same does not pertain to
personal care applications, it is common to all silicones; unfortunately, consumers do not.
see silicone elastomers embedded into skin The current recommendation is to restrict
treatment patches and other devices for this octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and deca-
delivery function. methylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) to less than
Depending on the chemistry and process 0.1% across all rinse-off products. Restrictions
to make them, silicone elastomers are referred for leave-on applications are also being consid-
to as silicone crosspolymers, dimethicone ered although they treat D4, D5 and D6 as the

24 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty Ebook


same materials. Furthermore, safety reviews or most other ingredient statements. This is
have already concluded that D5 (with less than thanks to the EU’s cosmetic regulation, which
1.0% D4 content) and D6 are safe for leave-on monitors such claims as outlined in the CTPA’s
cosmetics; D4 is no longer formulated into “Confidence in Cosmetic Claims” document.17
leave-on cosmetics except as an unavoidable This explains that unless an ingredient has
by-product. As such, any proposed leave-on proven negative health effects, it will be
restrictions concerning cyclomethicones D5 and impermissible to claim free-from on the label in
D6 are not warranted. In most applications, this upcoming months.18
provides a greater than 100-fold safety margin; Even parabens are excluded because they
the threshold used in all data-driven toxicology have extensively been reviewed and found to be
for leave-on cosmetics. safe when formulated within the recommended
What’s more, even after decades of using safety levels. Likewise, since silicones are safe
them at unrestricted levels, only minuscule as reviewed—including D5, with recommended
amounts of silicones, if any, have been detected 0.1% D4 inclusion—therefore, it will no longer
in environment samples.15 In fact, cyclomethi- be possible to market products as silicone-free
cones evaporate rapidly and degrade in air in the EU.
under the influence of sunlight. The small
amounts that may enter soil degrade, catalyzed Conclusions
by clays present in the soil. In water, they parti- Let’s face it, reliable information on the
tion out, again to be degraded in soil or in air.16 Internet is limited, which is why retailers are
Ultimately, silicones return to their basic silica compelled to take on the social responsibility
(sand), carbon dioxide and water components. of educating consumers and being transparent
about the products they carry. Luckily, Sephora
Freedom from has stepped back to consider what it means to
Free-from Claims stamp a product as “Clean.”
It is important to note that fewer products The long-reigning natural and green move-
will soon be stamped with free-from silicones ment must shift to prioritize safety and efficacy,

2019 Clean Beauty Ebook www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 25


Safe and Sustainable

not just all-natural claims; in other words, as 9. Stevens, C. (1998, Oct). Environmental fate and effects
of dimethicone and cyclotetrasiloxane from personal care
an industry, we should not continually respond applications. Int J Cosmet Sci 20(5) 296-304.
to what customers want if it does not support 10. Kipping, F. and Lloyd, L. L. (1901). Organic derivatives of
their best interests. silicon. Triphenylsilicol and alkyloxysilicon chlorides. J Chem
In reality, silicone-based raw materials Soc Trans 79 449–459.

have already been a crucial contributor in the 11. Ema, M., Harazono, A., Miyawaki, E. and Ogawa, Y. (2009,
Apr). Dow Corning presents new silicones portfolio at In-
natural, clean and ethical products category. Cosmetics. Chemical Business 23(4) 16.
A search19 in Mintel’s Global New Products 12. Starch, M. (2002). New developments in silicone elastomers
Database, between 1998 and June 2018, reveals for skin care. Dow Corning brochure, article 27-1060B-01.
that silicone elastomers were included on the 13. Toub, M. (2002, Jun). Factors affecting silicone volatile levels
labels of some 12,856 skin care and makeup in fabricated silicone elastomers. Rubber World 226(3) 36.

products designated as natural. Further find- 14. Colas, A. and Curtis, J. (2004). An introduction to materials
in medicine. Biomaterials Science, 2nd edn. Atlanta: Elsevier
ings demonstrate significant growth between Academic Press.
2012 and 2017 of products containing silicone 15. Dow Corning (1998, Jul). Degradation of Silicone Polymers
elastomers making claims around “ethical” in Nature. Available at http://www.green-flow.co.il/Docu-
and “environmental” marketing positions. ments/Aquatain%20AMF/%D7%9E%D7%97%D7%A7%D7
%A8%D7%99%D7%9D%20%D7%95%D7%A0%D7%99%
These findings make a lot of sense given the D7%A1%D7%95%D7%99%20%D7%A9%D7%98%D7%97/
mineral origin, safety and reliability of silicone Degradation%20of%20Silicone%20Polymers%20in%20
materials. Nature.pdf

Consumers choose products with natural 16. Cyclosiloxanes Information Center (2019, Apr 22). D6–
Health and Environment. Available at www.cyclosiloxanes.
and clean claims because they are trying to org/D6_health_environment_properties
align their purchases with personal ideologies. 17. CTPA (2019, Apr 22). Confidence in Cosmetic Claims. Avail-
Individuals who care about animals support able at http://ctpa.org.uk/document.aspx?fileid=3479
vegan products, while others value sustainable 18. Meredith, E. (2019, Apr 22). EU Regulatory Update: CTPA’s
packaging over anything else. Take on Claims and Cannabis. Available at https://www.
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/regulatory/region/europe/
“The consumer is taking matters into their EU-Regulatory-Update-CTPAs-Take-on-Claims-and-Canna-
own hands. They’re coming from a position bis-505376341.html
of strength,” reflects Arriagada. “It’s about 19. Mintel (2018). Polysilicone-11 Landscape. Proprietary brief-
lifestyle. It’s what we’re living.” Enter: the ing, www.mintel.org

clean beauty movement. This is one we can get


behind.

References
1. Herich, D. (2018). The Natural and Organic Beauty
Consumer: 2008-2018. Available at http://gcimagazine.
texterity.com/gcimagazine/april_2018/
2. Williams, H. C. (1992, Nov). Is the prevalence of atopic
dermatitis increasing? Clin Exp Dermatol 17(6) 385-91.
C&T Daily Newsletter
3. Scott, M. J. (1982, Apr). Jojoba oil. J Amer Acad Derm 6 4
(part 1) 545 Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
4. Steinberg, D. C. (2013). The EU Fragrance Allergens. delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
Available at https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
regulatory/claims/premium-The-EU-Fragrance-Allergens. http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
html
5. Latimer, A. (2018). Over 3500 P&G Products Are
Now Included Within SmartLabel. Available at https://
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/regulatory/claims/
Over-3000-PG-Products-are-now-Included-Within-Smart-
Label-483219161.html C&T Webcasts
6. Whole Foods (2019, Apr 22). Organic Labeling. Available at Find current and upcoming webcasts at
https://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/organic-labeling www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
7. Sephora (2019, Apr 22). Clean at Sephora. Available at
https://www.sephora.com/beauty/clean-beauty-products
8. Starch, M. (2008, Nov). Silicones’ benefits in anti-aging
skin care. Cosm & Toil

26 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty Ebook


ELASTOMER TIPS AND
FORMULATION GUIDE

• Enhanced compatibility with organic materials such as natural oils and butters, esters and sunscreens, while
maintaining the unique sensory characteristics and texture imparted by silicones
• Combination of Polysilicone-11 network with naturally-based fluids will serve as the perfect delivery system for
natural actives into the skin while leaving a light dry, smooth and powdery finish
• Addition in formula:
– Add to oil phase or silicone phase of any type of emulsion, including o/w, w/o, Si/w, w/Si and
anhydrous systems; post addition is also possible, if viscosity >50,000cPs
– Disperse SiAPPTM elastomer with homogenizer or propeller type blade
– Silicone elastomer is not heat sensitive. If heat is applied refer back to SiAppTM elastomer flash point to
determine maximum temperature allowed (the use of a closed vessel will prevent volatilization):
• GRANSIL GVL-LITE: 65° C
• GRANSIL GVL-912: 75° C
• GRANSIL OGH: 81° C
• GRANSIL SUG: 110° C
• Odor: silicones are odorless; however, combined with naturally-derived fluids, a stronger characteristic wax-type
odor may occur. Use of high temperature may enhance this effect. To off-set it, use a citrus type fragrance or an
essential oil (not limited to) or post-add raw material, once batch is a room temperature.
• Finish product packaging: organic portion in SiAPPTM elastomer may migrate to surface of the plastic and behave
as a plasticizer altering the shape of the packaging as well as finish product performance; to avoid this phenom-
ena it is recommended to use co-extruded, thick wall, polyester or polyethylene terapthalate type plastics or glass
packaging when applicable
• Applications across the board:
– Skin and sun care (including anhydrous clear systems), color cosmetics and hair care

GRANSURF PG-14: Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate


• HLB: 9 – 9.5
• Compatible with naturally-derived and synthetic ingredients; these include low and high polarity esters,
volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbons and silicone fluids
• Enhanced wetting properties for pigments with vegetable-derived or silicone coatings
• Applications: w/o or w/Si serums, creams, sunscreens, foundations
– Use level 4-10%
– Add to oil phase for optimal performance
– Water content up to 80% (formula dependent)
– Can be used as w/o main emulsifier or co-emulsifier
– Low to high viscosity emulsions
Formulating | C&T ®

Editor’s note: The ingredients featured in this


directory are highlighted for their relevance to
“clean beauty” product tenets, which clearly can

Clean Beauty Directory


vary drastically. As such, products were chosen
based on key search terms in their descriptions-
as provided by suppliers through our free online
ingredient database, the Cosmetics & Toiletries
Bench Reference (CBR).
The listings shown are new or were updated in our
system within the past two years. Search terms
ranged from: clean, alternative, safe, nontoxic, Additional Functions: Hair Anti-aging, Repair, Emollient, Moisturizer, Skin Cooling/
sustainable, green and preservative-free, to pure, Hair Repair, Skin Protectant, Skin Soothing, Skin Healing, Skin Protectant
organic, cold process, mild, non-irritating, vegan Treatment-Chapped Skin
and more. Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Click on any trade name to access our database for Decylene Glycol Neo Heliopan 357, Symrise, Inc.
more information, or visit CosmeticsandToiletries. SymClariol, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle,
com/cbr directly to search the entire database. Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Sunscreen-UVA
Deodorant, Foam Booster/Stabilizer,
Moisturizer Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Iris
This is an interactive PDF. Click on any Helichrysum Italicum Extract Florentina Root Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice)
trade name in this directory to connect Immea, Eko-aromatik Bran Wax
to our free Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- IRSI Oléosense, The Hallstar Company
Reference (CBR) for more information and/or
inflammatory, Antimicrobial, Flavoring Additional Functions: Barrier Repair,
to request a sample. Emollient, Moisturizer, Odor-masking Agent,
Agent, Moisturizer, Skin Healing
Skin Protectant, Skin Treatment-Chapped
Skin
Snail Secretion Filtrate
ABRASIVE Snail Slime, Darveja Ltd
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
wrinkle, Cellulite Treatment, Moisturizer, SymDecanox HA, Symrise, Inc.
Clays (White, Yellow, Red, Green, Pink) Skin Cleanser, Skin Healing, Skin Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Clay, CB Minerals LLC Lightening, Skin Smoothing Antioxidant, Stimulant
Additional Functions: Colorant, Exfoliant,
Skin Cleanser Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone
ADHESION PROMOTER Retinoate
Mica Granactive Retinoid, Grant Industries Inc.
Micro Mica C3000, CB Minerals LLC Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle
Additional Functions: Colorant Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone
Copolymer Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole
Gransil VX-401, Grant Industries Inc. Tetrasulfonate
Pumice
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Neo Heliopan AP, Symrise, Inc.
Pumice, CB Minerals LLC
Moisturizer, Rheology Modifier Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle
Additional Functions: Dentrifice-Powder,
Exfoliant, Powder, Skin Cleanser
Echinacea Purpurea Extract
ANTI-AGING SymFinity 1298, Symrise, Inc.
ABSORPTION BASE Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor Anti-irritant, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle
Neo Heliopan MBC, Symrise, Inc.
Zea Mays (Corn) Starch
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Farmal CS 3757, Ingredion Inc.
Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB Neo Heliopan AV, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-caking, Delivery
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Skin
System, Feel Enhancer, Polymer, Powder
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract Protectant, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Avenaplex, Oat Cosmetics
ACNE TREATMENT Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Neo Heliopan OS, Symrise, Inc.
Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Opuntia Ficus- Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Skin
Argania Spinosa Fruit Extract Indica Flower Extract Protectant, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Argan oil deodorized (Argania spinosa), Opuntia Oléoactif, The Hallstar Company
Kalaroma LLC Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Barrier

28 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


Glycerin, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Maltodextrin, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Sorbitol, Dihydroxy Methylchromone
Extract, Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Extract Ronacare Luremin, Merck KGaA
Extract, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract Neo Actipone Organic Rooibos, Symrise, Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Meiritage, Sederma Inc. Antioxidant
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Glycerin, Water (aqua), Zingiber Officinale Antimicrobial, Antioxidant Titanium Dioxide, Aluminum Hydroxide,
(Ginger) Root Extract Cetearyl Nonanoate, Stearic Acid
Actipone Ginger Juice (Organic), Symrise, Maltodextrin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract SymTio S, Symrise, Inc.
Inc. Neo Actipone Green Tea, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle,
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Anti- Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Moisturizer, Skin irritant, Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient,
Lightening, Stimulant Moisturizer, Stimulant Vaccinium Macrocarpan (Cranberry) Seed Oil,
Vaccinium Macrocarpan (Cranberry) Seed
Hexyldecanol, Bisabolol, Cetylhydroxyproline Menthyl Anthranilate Powder
Palmitamide, Stearic Acid, Brassica Neo Heliopan MA, Symrise, Inc. Organic Cranberry Oil, I & W Research Inc.
Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVA,
SymRepair 100, Symrise, Inc. Sunscreen-UVB Exfoliant, Hair Conditioner, Moisturizer,
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Powder, Skin Healing, Skin Treatment-
Anti-irritant, Barrier Repair Chapped Skin , SPF Booster, Sunscreen-UVA
Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16, Glycerin, Water
(aqua)
Homosalate SymPeptide 235, Symrise, Inc. Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Cocos Nucifera
Neo Heliopan HMS, Symrise, Inc. (Coconut) Fruit Extract
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Skin Sensorialine, Silab
Octocrylene
Protectant, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB Additional Functions: Barrier Repair,
Neo Heliopan 303, Symrise, Inc.
Neo Heliopan HMS, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Photo- Moisturizer, Skin Lightening
Additional Functions: Skin Protectant, stabilizer, Skin Protectant, Sunscreen-UVB
Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14, Lycium Barbarum
(Goji) Fruit Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Neo Heliopan Hydro, Symrise, Inc. Benzoate
Propylmethylmethoxybenzofuran Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Granactive AGE, Grant Industries Inc.
Sym3D, Symrise, Inc. Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Anti-
wrinkle Water (aqua), Carnosine, Glycerin,
Phenylethyl Resorcinol Heptapeptide-7, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum,
SymWhite 377, Symrise, Inc. Lecithin, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate,
Hydroxystearic Acid Additional Functions: Skin Lightening Potassium Sorbate
Beauactive, DSM Personal Care Gransome Heptapeptide-7, Grant Industries
Polysilicone-11, Water (aqua), Barium Inc.
Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate Sulfate, Sodium Carbonate, Laureth-12, Additional Functions: Skin Smoothing
Neo Heliopan E 1000, Symrise, Inc. Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Skin Gransil Blur-X60, Grant Industries Inc. Water (aqua), Glycerin, Beta-Glucan,
Protectant, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) SymGlucan, Symrise, Inc.
Isopropyl Palmitate, Lecithin, Water (aqua), Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Citrus Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle,
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Oil
Moisturizer
MeliNOIL, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Biochemica Lime Butter, The Hallstar
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Anti- Company
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Water (aqua), Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf
wrinkle, Skin Protectant, Sunless Tanning Extract
Agent Antioxidant, Emollient, Moisturizer, Odor-
Extrapone Green Tea GW, Symrise, Inc.
masking Agent, Skin Lightening
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Caesalpinia Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent,
Spinosa Fruit Extract Sclareolide
Emollient, Stimulant
Filmexel, Silab SymBright 2036, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Film- Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Skin
Lightening Water (aqua), Glycerin, Caprylyl/Capryl
former, Skin Protectant
Glucoside, Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/Stem
Extract, Pfaffia Paniculata Root Extract, Lilium
Lysine HCl, Alanine, Histidine HCl, Arginine, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Extract Candidum Flower Extract
Serine, Proline, Glutamic Acid, Threonine, Matribust, Silab Bioskinup Contour 3R, Chemyunion Quimica
Valine, Leucine, Glycine, Isoleucine, Ltda
Phenylalanine, Taurine, Allantoin Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil,
P.P.A.A.-C, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Punica Granatum Extract, Punica Granatum
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Water (aqua), Glycerin, Citrus Limon (Lemon)
Flower Extract
Juice
Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin Protectant Pomegranate Oléoactif, The Hallstar
Extrapone Lemon (Organic) GW, Symrise, Inc.
Company
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Additional Functions: Antioxidant
Antioxidant, Astringent, Skin Lightening,
Stimulant

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 29


Clean Beauty Ingredients
Water (aqua), Propanediol, Myrciaria Dubia Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Arginine Lauraminopropionate
Fruit Extract Sage essential oil organic (Salvia Officinalis), PEL-AMPH APL, Elé Corporation
Suprastim, Ashland LLC Kalaroma LLC Additional Functions: Foaming Agent/
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Skin Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Foamer, Surfactant-Amphoteric
Clarifier, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant Antimicrobial
Bisabolol
Water (aqua), Trehalose, Glycerin, Pentylene Dragosantol 100, Symrise, Inc.
Glycol, Beta-Glucan, Hordeum Vulgare Seed ANTI-CAKING
Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed
SymLift, Symrise, Inc. Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil,
Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc. Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Linum
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Feel Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, Curcumin
Enhancer Amla Curcumin/Omega-3 Butter Organic
Yeast Extract
Ecobiotys, Silab I.S., International Cosmetics Science Centre
Additional Functions: Barrier Repair, Skin A/S (ICSC)
ANTICARIES AGENT Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Lightening
Emollient
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
SymVital AgeRepair, Symrise, Inc. Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Curcumin Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant,
Amla Curcumin Oil Organic I.S, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Linum
Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, Skin Smoothing Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, Curcumin,
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
(ICSC) Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Amla Curcumin/Omega-3 Butter Organic,
ANTIBACTERIAL International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Emollient
(ICSC)
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Rosemary essential oil, Kalaroma LLC ANTI-INFLAMMATORY Emollient
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Astringent Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Acer Rubrum Extract, Glycerin, Water (aqua) Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil,
Celltice, Renmatix Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Curcumin
Additional Functions: Antioxidant Amla Curcumin Oil Organic, International
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Emollient

Butylene Glycol, Water (aqua), Salvia


Miltiorrhiza Extract
Neurofense, Silab
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Skin
Cooling/Soothing

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Chamomilla


Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract
Camomile Oil EC, Crodarom SAS

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower


Extract
Certified Organic Chamomile Extract, Bio-
Botanica Inc.
Additional Functions: Moisturizer

Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract,


Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Curcumin, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed
Oil
Amla Curcumin Butter Organic I.S.,
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
(ICSC)
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial

Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Curcumin,


Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil

30 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


Amla Curcumin Butter Organic,
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
(ICSC)
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Emollient

Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Sesamum


Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum
Parkii (Shea) Butter
Amla Butter Organic, International
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Emollient
Amla Butter Organic I.S., International
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Emollient

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Arnica Montana


Flower Extract
Organic Arnica Oil Extract, Natural
Sourcing
Additional Functions: Moisturizer

Pentylene Glycol, 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol


SymSitive 1609, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant

Perilla Frutescens Seed Extract Water (aqua), Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Maltodextrin
Perilla Oil, International Cosmetics Science Kernel Extract Neo Actipone Acai, Symrise, Inc.
Centre A/S (ICSC) Dragocalm, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Astringent, Skin Smoothing
Emollient Antioxidant
Glycerin, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract,
Raspberry Seed Oil/Tocopheryl Succinate Water (aqua), Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water (aqua)
Aminopropanediol Esters, Rubus Idaeus Extract, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Actipone Stinging Nettle Juice (Organic),
(Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Symrise, Inc.
(Raspberry) Seed Oil Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Organic Red Raspberry Oil, I & W Research Pro Soleil BCR, Bio Component Research Antioxidant, Astringent, Dandruff Treatment,
Inc. Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Skin Stimulant
Additional Functions: Anti-irritant, Cooling/Soothing, Skin Protectant, SPF
Exfoliant, Skin Clarifier, Skin Healing, SPF Booster
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Booster, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Promois WJ-SP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Foam
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Extract ANTI-IRRITANT
Booster/Stabilizer, Glosser, Hair Conditioner,
JD Jojoba Organic Colorless Oil, Jojoba Hair Repair, Moisturizer, Powder
Desert (A.C.S) Ltd. Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root
JD Jojoba Organic Golden Oil, Jojoba Desert Extract Hydroxyacetophenone
(A.C.S) Ltd. SymRelief 100, Symrise, Inc. SymSave H, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Bobgunnia Madagascariensis Wood Extract, Antioxidant
JD Jojoba Colorless Oil, Jojoba Desert Propanediol
(A.C.S) Ltd. SymFit nat 1750, Symrise, Inc.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9,
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Cellulite Pentylene Glycol, 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol,
JD Jojoba Golden Oil, Jojoba Desert (A.C.S) Treatment Propylene Glycol, Water (aqua)
Ltd.
SymCare W2, Symrise, Inc.
Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Camellia SymCalmin, Symrise, Inc.
Sinensis Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Extract,
Boswellia Serrata Extract, Honey Extract, Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Glycyrrhiza
Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract
Tetrapeptide-14, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Benzoate Actipone Licorice, Symrise, Inc.
SymCalmin, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Granactive AR-1423, Grant Industries Inc.
Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient, Skin
Lightening, Skin Smoothing, Stimulant

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 31


Clean Beauty Ingredients
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis 1,2-Hexanediol ANTISTATIC AGENT
Leaf Extract Hydrolite 6, Symrise, Inc.
Actipone White Tea (Organic) GW, Symrise, Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Solvent
Inc. Cyclopentasiloxane, Diphenyl Dimethicone
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol Gransil C-DPDM, Grant Industries Inc.
Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient, SymDiol 68, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer,
Moisturizer, Stimulant Glosser, Hair Conditioner, Water-proofing
1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone Agent
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Fraxinus Excelsior SymDiol 68T, Symrise, Inc.
Wood Extract Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Actipone Ash Wood GW, Symrise, Inc. Moisturizer
ANTI-WRINKLE
Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Astringent, Stimulant Pentylene Glycol Benzophenone-3
Hydrolite 5, Symrise, Inc. Neo Heliopan BB, Symrise, Inc.
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Solvent Additional Functions: Skin Protectant,
Extract Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Actipone Black Rice GW, Symrise, Inc. Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone,
Additional Functions: Antioxidant Caprylyl Glycol, Water (aqua) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
SymOcide PH, Symrise, Inc. Almond oil (sweet), Kalaroma LLC
Water (aqua), PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Oil, Trideceth-9, Pentylene Glycol, Lavandula Preservative
Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Propylene
Glycol
BINDER
Flowerpone Lavender, Symrise, Inc. Water (aqua), Glycerin, Rosa Canina Fruit
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Extract Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone
Antioxidant, Dandruff Treatment, Extrapone Rose Hip (Organic) GW, Symrise, Gransil VX-418, Grant Industries Inc.
Deodorant, Stimulant Inc. Additional Functions: Emollient, Feel
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Enhancer, Moisturizer, Rheology Modifier
Astringent
Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, PEG-40
Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Talc
Bisabolol, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Water (aqua), Glycerin, Vaccinium Mondana 8 HT, Elementis
Extract, Propylene Glycol Macrocarpan (Cranberry) Fruit Extract Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Oil
Flowerpone Jasmine, Symrise, Inc. Actipone Cranberry GW, Symrise, Inc. Absorbent
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial, Additional Functions: Antioxidant
Stimulant
Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, PEG-40 BLOOD CIRCULATION AGENT-
Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, SKIN
Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract
Bisabolol, Iris Germanica Root Extract Extrapone Cinnamon, Symrise, Inc.
Extrapone Iris B, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Astringent, Deodorant, Stimulant Linseed oil (low linolenic flax), Kalaroma
Moisturizer LLC

ANTIOXIDANT
ANTIMICROBIAL BUFFER
Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Seed Oil
2-Methyl 5-Cyclohexylpentanol Broccoli Seed Oil, Botanic Innovations, LLC PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate
SymDeo B125, Symrise, Inc. Additional Functions: Emollient, Hair Anti- PEL-PHOS SG, Elé Corporation
aging, Lubricant, Moisturizer Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Hair
Caprylyl Glycol Conditioner, Solubilizer, Thickener
Hydrolite CG, Symrise, Inc. Water (aqua), Glycerin, Rubus Idaeus
Additional Functions: Moisturizer (Raspberry) Fruit Extract
Actipone Raspberry (Organic) GW, Symrise, CO-EMULSIFIER
Caprylyl Glycol, Water (aqua) Inc.
Hydrolite 8, Symrise, Inc. Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Water (aqua), Propylene Glycol, Pachyrhizus Emulsun, Floratech
o-Cymen-5-ol Erosus Root Extract Additional Functions: Emulsifier
Symocide C, Symrise, Inc. Actipone Bengkoang, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Additional Functions: Dandruff Treatment, Lanolin Alcohol
Preservative Skin Lightening, Skin Smoothing Fancol LA Superfine-P, Elementis
Additional Functions: Emulsifier,
Dimethyl Phenylbutanol Moisturizer
SymDeo MPP, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Decolorant

32 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


Lecithin Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Algae Extract
Lipova E110, VAV Lipids Pvt. Ltd. Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Water Algae Oil, International Cosmetics Science
Additional Functions: Controlled Release (aqua), Glycerin, Decyl Glucoside Centre A/S (ICSC)
Delivery System, Delivery System, Emollient, Gransil SiW-038, Grant Industries Inc.
Algae Oil I.S., International Cosmetics
Emulsifier Additional Functions: Dispersant
Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate Isododecane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Water Algae Oil Organic, International Cosmetics
PEL-ALC CA-205P, Elé Corporation (aqua), Propanediol, Decyl Glucoside Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Emollient, Emulsifier, Granresin SiW-MQIZ, Grant Industries Inc. Algae Oil Organic I.S., International
Solubilizer, Surfactant-Nonionic, Suspending Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Agent Undecane, Tridecane, Polysilicone-11
Gransil OGH, Grant Industries Inc. Allanblackia Stuhlmannii Seed Butter
Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer Allanblackia Butter Organic, International
Pullulan Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Siligel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, DEODORANT Allanblackia Butter Organic I.S.,
Gellant, Stabilizer-Emulsion, Suspending International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Agent (ICSC)
Magnesium Chloride
Magnesium Chloride Flakes, Natural
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Brassica
Sourcing
COLORANT Additional Functions: Emollient, Moisturizer
Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil
Aloe Oil Organic, International Cosmetics
Magnesium Chloride Oil (Brine), 31%, Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide,
Natural Sourcing Aloe Oil Organic I.S., International
Iron Oxides, Silica
Additional Functions: Emollient Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Chione Electric Fuchsia SF90D, BASF
Corporation
Additional Functions: Pigment Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Cocos Nucifera
DETANGLER (Coconut) Oil
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide, Aloe Butter Organic, International
Tin Oxide Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Timiron Halo White, EMD Chemicals Inc.- Abyssinian Oil, Natural Sourcing
RONA Cosmetic Business Unit Additional Functions: Emollient, Lubricant, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Additional Functions: Pigment Moisturizer Argan Oil Organic, International Cosmetics
Science Centre A/S (ICSC)

COOLING AGENT DISPERSANT Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter


Murumuru Seed Oil, International
Menthone Glycerin Acetal Oleth-10 Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Frescolat MGA, Symrise, Inc. Brij 010, Croda
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Wetting Balanites Aegyptiaca (Desert Date) Fruit
Extract
Menthyl Ethylamido Oxalate Agent
Desert Date Oil, International Cosmetics
Frescolat X-cool, Symrise, Inc.
Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Menthyl Lactate EMOLLIENT
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil
Frescolat ML, Symrise, Inc.
Agri-Pure AP 75 R, Cargill Beauty
Frescolat ML Cryst, Symrise, Inc. Acacia Senegal Extract
Acacia Senegal Seed Oil I.S., International Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Frescolat ML Nat., Symrise, Inc. Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Curcumin, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed)
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed
Menthyl Lactate, Menthol Clarifier, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin Oil, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
Frescolat Plus, Symrise, Inc. Lightening, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing Amla Oil Organic I.S., International
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Acacia Senegal Seed Oil Organic I.S.,
DELIVERY SYSTEM International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
(ICSC) Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Danomega-3 Organic I.S., International
Coconut Alkanes, Polysilicone-11, Water Clarifier, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin
(aqua), Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Lightening, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Decyl Glucoside
Gransil SiW-GVL, Grant Industries Inc. Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Seed Oil Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil,
Kiwi Seed Oil, International Cosmetics Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil,
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Curcumin
Amla Oil Organic, International Cosmetics
Science Centre A/S (ICSC)

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 33


Clean Beauty Ingredients
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil,
Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil Vegelight 1214LC, Grant Industries Inc. Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Neem Oil Refined, International Cosmetics Biochemica Olive Butter, The Hallstar
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil Company
Abyssinian Oil, Natural Sourcing Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Additional Functions: Lubricant Treatment-Chapped Skin
Shea Butter (Cosmosil SH) Organic,
Fancor Abyssinian Oil, Elementis
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S Perilla Frutescens Seed Extract
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer,
(ICSC) Perilla Oil I.S., International Cosmetics
Glosser, Wetting Agent
Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Shea Butter Unrefined Organic, International
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Perilla Oil Organic, International Cosmetics
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Oil, Carrot Butter, International Cosmetics Perilla Oil Organic I.S., International
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Shea Oil (Cosmosil 660) Organic,
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
(ICSC) Corapan TQ, Symrise, Inc. Avocado Oil Organic, International
Additional Functions: SPF Booster Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
C13-15 Alkane
Neossance Hemisqualane, Aprinnova Ethylhexyl Isononanoate Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Butyrospermum
Dragoxat 89, Symrise, Inc. Parkii (Shea) Butter
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Solvent Plum Kernel Butter, International Cosmetics
Camellia Seed Oil, International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Acai Seed Oil I.S., International Cosmetics Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil,
Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Hemp Seed Oil Nordic Organic, Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Peach Kernel Butter, International
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S Clarifier, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
(ICSC) Lightening, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Hemp Seed Oil Nordic Organic I.S., Acai Seed Oil Organic, International Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Black Castor Oil, Natural Sourcing
(ICSC) Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Clarifier, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin Moisturizer
Hemp Seed Oil Organic, International
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Lightening, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Rosa Canina
Hemp Seed Oil Unrefined Organic, Acai Seed Oil Organic I.S., International (Rosehip) Fruit Extract
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Rose Hip Oil Organic, International
(ICSC) Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Clarifier, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin
Lightening, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing Rose Hip Oil Unrefined, International
Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Andiroba Oil, Natural Sourcing
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Promois WS-SP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Hair Biochemica Jojoba Oil Deo, The Hallstar
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate Company
PCL-Liquid 100, Symrise, Inc. Conditioner, Hair Repair, Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Lubricant, Moisturizer,
Additional Functions: Film-former, Skin Smoothing
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Lanolin Wax
Fancor Lanwax, Elementis
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Feel Squalane
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isopropyl Myristate Neossance Squalane, Amyris Inc.
PCL Liquid, Symrise, Inc. Enhancer, Plasticizer
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Film-former,
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil Neossance Squalane, Aprinnova
Fancor Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Elementis
Cetearyl Nonanoate Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
SymMollient S, Symrise, Inc. Glosser, Moisturizer, Wetting Agent Pencare DP 1015, Ingredion Inc.
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Film-
Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter former, Fixative, Hair Conditioner, Hair-set
Mango Butter (Cosmosil 700) Organic, Polymer/Resin, Polymer, Skin Smoothing
Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Fruit Extract, International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (ICSC) Stearyl Heptanoate, Stearyl Caprylate
Orange Seed Butter, International Cosmetics PCL Solid, Symrise, Inc.
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Additional Functions: Film-former,
Parkii (Shea) Butter Moisturizer, Refatting Agent
Black Cumin Butter, International
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)

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Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Caprylic/Capric Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate,
Cocoa Butter (Cocoadan) Organic, Triglyceride Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S Dracorin GOC, Symrise, Inc. Gransurf PG-14, Grant Industries Inc.
(ICSC) Additional Functions: Stabilizer-Emulsion
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Cocoa Butter (Cocoadan) Unrefined Organic,
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate KMP-590, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Dracorin CE, Symrise, Inc. Inc.
(ICSC)
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer
Isododecane, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
X-22-6711B, Shin-Etsu Silicones of Polysorbate 20
Cupuaçu Butter, refined, Symrise, Inc.
America, Inc. Tween 20, Croda
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Additional Functions: Solubilizer
Moisturizer
Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3
Crosspolymer, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Polysorbate 80
Trichilia Emetica Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Seed Oil
Parkii (Shea) Butter Tween 80, Croda
X-22-6695B, Shin-Etsu Silicones of Additional Functions: Wetting Agent
Mafura Butter, International Cosmetics America, Inc.
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated
Thickener Palm Glycerides
Trideceth-9, Water (aqua), PEG-5 Emulsiphos, Symrise, Inc.
Ethylhexanoate Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Neo-PCL Water Soluble N, Symrise, Inc. Dimethicone
Additional Functions: Foam Booster/ KF-6038, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Stabilizer, Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Sodium
Inc. Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Chloride,
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Sodium Oleate, Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate
Triheptanoin Wetting Agent SymSol PF-3, Symrise, Inc.
Cosphaderm Feel, Cosphatec GmbH Additional Functions: Solubilizer
Additional Functions: Silicone Replacement, Lecithin
Solvent, Stabilizer-Viscosity Emultop Velvet IP, Cargill Beauty
EXFOLIANT
Virola Sebifera Nut Oil Mineral Oil, PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone
Ucuuba Seed Butter, International Crosspolymer
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract
KSG-310, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Cosme-Phytami Lemon, Alban Muller
Inc.
Additional Functions: Toner
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer,
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Rheology Modifier, Thickener
Grape Seed Butter, International Cosmetics Glycol Distearate
Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Cegesoft Peel, BASF SE
Oleth-2
Brij 020, Croda
Additional Functions: Wetting Agent
EMULSIFIER

Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer


Rheostyl E-Cream, Coatex an Arkema
Group
Rheostyl E-Light, Coatex an Arkema Group

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone


Gransurf 90, Grant Industries Inc.

Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone


Gransurf 50C-HM, Grant Industries Inc.
X-22-6711D, Shin-Etsu Silicones of
America, Inc.

Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates


Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Olivem 2020, The Hallstar Company
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer,
Gellant, Humectant, Rheology Modifier,
Stabilizer-Emulsion, Stabilizer-Viscosity,
Suspending Agent, Thickener

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 35


Clean Beauty Ingredients
FEEL ENHANCER Dimethicone PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate,
Gransil 530, Grant Industries Inc. Propanediol
Glucamate VLT Thickener, Lubrizol
Bis-PEG-8 Dimethicone Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/ Advanced Materials, Inc.
Gransil VX-409, Grant Industries Inc. Silesequioxane Crosspolymer Additional Functions: Gellant, Rheology
Gransil EPSQ, Grant Industries Inc. Modifier, Stabilizer-Viscosity, Thickener
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Fancol Shea Butter, Elementis Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Refatting Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl KMP-591, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Agent, Skin Protectant Dimethicone Crosspolymer Inc.
KSG-016F, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Additional Functions: Powder
C13-15 Alkane, Stearoxymethicone/ Inc.
Dimethicone Copolymer Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, HDI/Trimethylol
Gransil Sug, Grant Industries Inc. Thickener Hexyllactone Crosspolymer (proposed)
Granpowder USQ, Grant Industries Inc.
USG-107A, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
C9-12 Alkane, Polysilicone-11
Inc.
Gransil GVL-Lite, Grant Industries Inc. Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier,
Crosspolymer
Thickener
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearalkonium Granpowder QSC, Grant Industries Inc.
Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate Additional Functions: Stabilizer-Viscosity
Bentone Gel GTCC V, Elementis Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Gransil DMG-6, Grant Industries Inc.
Polysilicone-11, Water (aqua), Laureth-12,
Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending Agent, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Thickener Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Butylene
Gransil EP-9, Grant Industries Inc.
Glycol, Water (aqua), Decyl Glucoside
Additional Functions: Oil Absorbent
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Stearalkonium Gransil SiW-066, Grant Industries Inc.
Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate Polysilicone-22
Bentone Gel ABO V, Elementis Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11,
KSP-441, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Inc.
Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending Agent, Gransil SBG-11, Grant Industries Inc.
Additional Functions: Powder, Rheology
Thickener Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Modifier, Thickener
Smoothing
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Gransil 314, Grant Industries Inc. Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone,
Dimethicone/Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone KF-7002, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Crosspolymer Inc.
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl KSG-18A, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Dimethicone Crosspolymer Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Inc.
USG-102, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Fancol CB, Elementis
Additional Functions: Glosser, Rheology
Inc. Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Modifier, Thickener
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Thickener
Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone/
USG 103, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Phenylsilsesquioxane Crosspolymer Trimethylcyclohexyl Butylcarbamate
Inc. Granpowder EDC-600, Grant Industries Inc. SymFit 1617, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier Additional Functions: Thickener
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Water Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Crosspolymer
(aqua), Polysilicone-11, Butylene Glycol, Structure XL, Nouryon (formerly KSP-101, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Decyl Glucoside AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals) Inc.
Gransil SiW-026, Grant Industries Inc. Additional Functions: Stabilizer-Emulsion Additional Functions: Powder, Rheology
Modifier
Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Isododecane, Water (aqua), Dimethicone, KSP-102, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate Polysilicone-11, Butylene Glycol, Inc.
Bentone Gel 1002 V, Elementis Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Additional Functions: Powder, Rheology
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier, Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Coco-
Caprylate/Caprate, Decyl Glucoside Modifier
Stabilizer-Viscosity, Suspending Agent,
Thickener Gransil SiW-050-IS, Grant Industries Inc. KSP-105, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Inc.
Dimethicone Additional Functions: Powder, Rheology
DM-Fluid-A2cs, Shin-Etsu Silicones of PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate Modifier
America, Inc. Glucamate DOE-120 Thickener, Lubrizol
Additional Functions: Lubricant Advanced Materials, Inc.
Additional Functions: Gellant, Rheology
KSG-19, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Modifier, Stabilizer-Viscosity, Thickener
Inc.
Additional Functions: Rheology Modifier,
Thickener

36 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


FILM-FORMER FOAMING AGENT/FOAMER Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed Silk, Alcohol
Promois SILK-A, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl Cocamidopropyl Betaine Moisturizer
Methylsilanediol, Water (aqua) AMPHOSOL HCG-HP, Stepan Co.
Promois WU-32SIG, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Additional Functions: Stabilizer-Viscosity, Glyceryl Diisostearate
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Surfactant-Amphoteric Vistanol GDHR, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Hair Repair, Moisturizer Additional Functions: Lanolin Substitute
C12-13 Pareth Sulfate
Isododecane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane/ STEOL CS-230 PC HP, Stepan Co.
Trimethylsiloxysilicate Additional Functions: Skin Cleanser, HAIR ANTI-AGING
Granresin MQI-T50, Grant Industries Inc. Surfactant-Anionic

Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Coconut Alkanes Propanediol, Quaternium-95


Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
GranResin PMSQ-VL, Grant Industries Inc. ChromAveil, Croda
BIO-TERGE AS-40 HA, Stepan Co.
Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVA,
Additional Functions: Surfactant-Anionic
Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Isododecane Sunscreen-UVB
Granresin PMSQ-ID, Grant Industries Inc.
FRAGRANCE
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter,
HAIR CLEANSER/SHAMPOO
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Extract
SymHair Rescue, Symrise, Inc. PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate
Organic Green Mandarin Oil, Earthoil
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Tween 28, Croda
Plantations Ltd.
Hair Repair, Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Additional Functions: Skin Cleanser,
Solubilizer
Water (aqua), Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic GELLANT
Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate
Copolymer, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, HAIR CONDITIONER
Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk,
InvisaSkin RB, Grant Industries Inc. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Silk Protein, CB Minerals LLC AMP-Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Alcohol,
Additional Functions: Powder Water (aqua)
Promois EF-118AMP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
FIXATIVE Additional Functions: Hair Repair,
GLOSSER Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing

Dimethicone/Mercaptopropyl Methicone Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter


Copolymer, Phenyl Trimethicone, Melaleuca Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone
Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil Murumuru Butter, refined, Symrise, Inc.
KF-56A, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America,
Gransil NYKT-P, Grant Industries Inc. Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair-set Polymer/ Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
Additional Functions: Lubricant
Resin Amla Oil, Natural Sourcing

Isododecane, C24-28 Alkyldimethylsiloxy


Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Granresin MQI-2450, Grant Industries Inc.

Isododecane, Isobutylmethacrylate/
Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate
Copolymer, Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol,
Decyl Glucoside
Gransil SiW-CRT, Grant Industries Inc.

FOAM BOOSTER/STABILIZER

Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Isostearic


Acid
Promois EU-118(IS), Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Additional Functions: Foaming Agent/
Foamer, Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair,
Moisturizer, Surfactant-Cationic

Sodium Laurylglucosides
Hydroxypropylsulfonate
SugaNate 160NC, Colonial Chemical Inc.

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 37


Clean Beauty Ingredients
Hydrolyzed Collagen, Water (aqua) Hydrolyzed Silk, Water (aqua) Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Promois W-32U, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Promois SILK-1000F, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Acai Seed Oil, International Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Hair Repair, Additional Functions: Humectant, Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Humectant, Moisturizer Moisturizer Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/
Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant,
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil Skin Smoothing
Promois WR-SP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Passion Fruit Oil, refined, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair Repair, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Butyrospermum
Moisturizer, Powder Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Aminomethyl Parkii (Shea) Butter, Elaeis Guineensis
Propanol, Bis-PCA Dimethicone, Disodium (Palm) Oil
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate Acai Butter, International Cosmetics Science
Promois WG-SP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Granrepair Powerbond, Grant Industries Centre A/S (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Hair Repair, Inc. Additional Functions: Skin Clarifier, Skin
Moisturizer, Powder Cooling/Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin
Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, HUMECTANT Acai Butter Organic I.S., International
Water (aqua) Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Promois WK-Q, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Water Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/
Additional Functions: Hair Repair, Hair (aqua), Phenoxyethanol Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant,
Waving, Moisturizer Granhydrosil PSQ-W-GL (NP), Grant Skin Smoothing
Industries Inc.
Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Isostearic Acid Additional Functions: Moisturizer Glycerin, Water (aqua)
Promois EF-118(IS), Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Extrapone Glacier Water GW, Symrise, Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair Repair,
Moisturizer MOISTURIZER Extrapone Volcanic Water GW, Symrise, Inc.

Sericin 1,2-Hexanediol
Acacia Senegal Extract Hydrolite 6 O, Symrise, Inc.
Promois SERICIN-N, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Acacia Senegal Seed Oil, International
Additional Functions: Hair Repair,
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Water (aqua)
Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Skin Clarifier, Skin Hydromoist L, Symrise, Inc.
Cooling/Soothing, Skin Protectant, Skin
Zea Mays (Corn) Starch Smoothing
Nativacare 5600, Ingredion Inc. Pentadesma Butyracea Seed Butter
Acacia Senegal Seed Oil Organic, Kpangnan (Pentadesma) Butter,
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
HAIR REPAIR (ICSC) (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Skin Clarifier, Skin
Protectant, Skin Smoothing Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Rosa Canina
AMPD-Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, (Rosehip) Fruit Extract
Water (aqua), Alcohol Rose Hip Oil Unrefined Organic,
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Promois EU-118D, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S
Organic Virgin Argan Oil, Natural Sourcing
(ICSC)

Salinicoccus Lysate Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol


Hydronesis, Sederma

Soluble Keratin
Solublekeratin SKSP, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Additional Functions: Powder, Skin
Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin

Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin,


Fructose, Urea, Citric Acid, Sodium
Hydroxide, Maltose, Sodium PCA, Sodium
Chloride, Sodium Lactate, Trehalose,
Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucose
Hydroviton Plus, Symrise, Inc.

Water (aqua), Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin,


Sodium Lactate, Lactic Acid, Serine, Urea,
Sorbitol, Allantoin
Hydroviton 24, Symrise, Inc.

Water (aqua), Propanediol, Polyglutamic


Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Biowave BCR, Bio Component Research

38 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


PEARLANT/PEARLING AGENT Thymol, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol Acai Butter Organic, International
SharoSense 250, Sharon Laboratories Ltd. Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)
Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/
Water (aqua), Glycol Distearate, Laureth-4, Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant,
Cocamidopropyl Betaine SKIN CLARIFIER Skin Smoothing
Perlogen SF 3000, Clariant Int., Ltd.
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Butyrospermum
Parkii (Shea) Butter, Elaeis Guineensis SKIN LIGHTENING
PRESERVATIVE (Palm) Oil
Acai Butter I.S., International Cosmetics Tetrahydropiperine
Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Science Centre A/S (ICSC) Tetrahydropiperine, Novel Nutrients Pvt.
Acid, Tocopherol Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/ Ltd.
euxyl K 903, schulke Soothing, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant,
Skin Smoothing
Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol,
Glycerin
Spectrastat, INOLEX

Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate


Lexgard Natural, INOLEX

Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol,


Ethylhexylglycerin
euxyl K 940, schulke

Propylene Glycol, Benzoic Acid, Caprylyl


Glycol
euxyl K 720, schulke

Thymol, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol


SharoSense 251, Sharon Laboratories Ltd.

Thymol, Linalool, Phenethyl Alcohol


SharoSense 252, Sharon Laboratories Ltd.

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 39


Clean Beauty Ingredients

Water (aqua), Polysorbate 20, SUNLESS TANNING AGENT UV Cut ZNO-72-NU, Grant Industries Inc.
Pentapeptide-21, Morus Alba Root Extract, Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVB
Resveratrol, Scutellaria Lateriflora Extract,
Hydrangea Arborescens Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isochrysis
Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Zinc Oxide, Dimethicone, PEG-10
Galbana Extract Dimethicone
Sorbate, Hexylene Glycol SymBronze1659, Symrise, Inc.
Granactive 1518, Grant Industries Inc. UV Cut ZnO-61-DM, Grant Industries Inc.
Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVB
SUNSCREEN-UVA
SOLUBILIZER
SURFACTANT
Titanium Dioxide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate,
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Cyclopentasiloxane, Stearic Acid,
Propylene Glycol Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Alumina Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hexyl
Solubilizer with Propylene Glycol, Symrise, Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
UV Cut TiO2-55-AC, Grant Industries Inc.
Inc. Gransurf W9, Grant Industries Inc.
Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVB

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, PEG-10 Dimethicone


Titanium Dioxide, Caprylic/Capric
Water (aqua) Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Alumina, Gransurf 67, Grant Industries Inc.
Solubilizer with No Propylene Glycol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Symrise, Inc. UV Cut TiO2-55-CG, Grant Industries Inc.
Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVB TEXTURIZER

STABILIZER-EMULSION Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum


Polyhydroxystearic Acid Actigum VSX 20, Cargill Beauty
UV Cut ZnO-68-CG, Grant Industries Inc.
Potato Starch Modified
Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVB
Structure Solanace, Nouryon (formerly
AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals)
THICKENER
Titanium Dioxide, Coconut Alkanes, Stearic
Additional Functions: Thickener Acid, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Alumina,
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicones
UV Cut TiO2-60-VL, Grant Industries Inc. Gransil GCM-5, Grant Industries Inc.
STIMULANT
Titanium Dioxide, Dimethicone, Hexyl Methyl Glucose Caprate/Caprylate/Oleate,
Laurate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-4 Propanediol
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Myristoyl Glucamate CCO Thickener, Lubrizol
Pentapeptide-17 Isostearate, Stearic Acid, Alumina
UV Cut TiO2-41-DM, Grant Industries Inc. Advanced Materials, Inc.
SymPeptide XLash, Symrise, Inc.

Zinc Oxide, Coconut Alkanes, Tapioca Starch


Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Coco-Caprylate/ Nativacare 9330, Ingredion Inc.
Caprate, Dimethicone

40 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


DID YOU KNOW?
MAJOR MISCONCEPTIONS REVERSED:

• In the environment silicones degrade rapidly in sunlight and soil. In


water, they partition out, again to be degraded in soil or in air. Ulti-
mately, they return to silica (sand), carbon dioxide and water.

• Are silicones sustainable? Absolutely. Silicones are derived from


quartz (sand) the second most abundant mineral on earth.

• Do silicones cause acne, allergies, or clog pores? No actually the


complete opposite. Silicones are inert, non-reactive materials that are
extremely safe for topical use. They have proven to be non-comedo-
genic and are even used for irritation relief from dermatoses such as
atopic dermatitis. Dimethicone specifically is FDA-approved as a skin
protectant to help prevent skin sensitization to allergens.

• Natural is implicitly equated with “safety”, and yet ironically essential


oils are a quintessential example of natural ingredients laden with
allergens. Even jojoba oil, ubiquitous in “sensitive” products, is a
proven source of contact dermatitis and sensitization. Bottom line:
nothing safer on the skin than silicones.

TO LEARN ABOUT THESE MISCONCEPTIONS AND


MORE VISIT THE FOLLOWING INSTAGRAM PAGES:
The Truth about Silicones in Cosmetics with @liahyoo
Busting Silicone Myths with @labmuffinbeautyscience
Clean Beauty Demo Formulas

Lite Mousse Foundation


This is an interactive PDF. Click on any formula in this (Grant Industries Inc.)
directory to connect to our free Cosmetics & Toiletries A. Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Coconut Alkanes (GranResin
Bench Reference (CBR) for more information and/or to PMSQ-VL, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00% w/w
request a sample. Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Gransurf 90, Grant
Industries Inc.) 4.50
Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene
Carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V, Elementis) 10.00
Isododecane 12.50
Charcoal Chameleon Clay Mask Beeswax 6.00
(Grant Industries Inc.) Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 3.00
B. Pigments 14.88
A. Water (aqua) 47.10% w/w C. Water (aqua) 17.32
Water (aqua) (and) Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract (and) Sodium Chloride 0.30
Eleutherococcus Senticosus Root Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010,
Rhaponticum Carthamoides Root Extract (and) Inonotus schulke) 1.00
Obliquus (Mushroom) Extract (and) Selaginella Lepidophylla D. C9-12 Alkane (and) Polysilicone-11 (Gransil GVL-Lite,
Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Sodium Benzoate Grant Industries Inc.) 25.00
(Resurgent Power BCR, Bio Component Research) 5.00 E. Silica (Aerosil 200, Evonik Industries AG) 0.50
Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer (Granpowder 100.00
QSC, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00
Glycerin 5.00 Procedure: Combine A in main kettle with homogenizer. Heat to 70-75°C. Mix until
B. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 2.80 uniform. Micro-pulverize B premix and add to A. Mix until uniform. Weigh C in a side
Xanthan Gum 0.10 kettle and mix until uniform. Slowly add C to the main kettle. Mix until uniform. Add
C. Kaolin 16.00 D to main kettle. Mix until uniform. Switch to sidesweep. Cool to 30-35°C and add
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium E to the main kettle. Mix until uniform. B premix: mica = 44%; titanium dioxide (and)
disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide = 40%; iron oxides (CI 77492)
Sorbate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Hexylene Glycol (Jeecide
(and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide = 11%; iron oxides (CI
CAP-5, Jeen International Corp.) 1.00 77491) (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide = 3%; iron oxides
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.50 (CI 77499) (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide = 2%.
D. Coconut Alkanes (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Water (aqua)
(and) Butylene Glycol (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Decyl Luxnight Cream
Glucoside (Gransil SiW-GVL, Grant Industries Inc.) 10.00
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer/ (Grant Industries Inc.)
Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel 600, Seppic) 1.50 A. Water (aqua) 41.58% w/w
Mannitol (and) Cellulose (and) Iron Oxides (and) Charcoal Water (aqua) (and) Honey Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol
Powder (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) (and) Sodium Benzoate (Healing Hive BCR, Bio
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (Lipobead Detox with Component Research) 2.00
Charcoal, Vantage Specialty Ingredients) 5.00 Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced
100.00 Materials, Inc.) 0.20
Triethanolamine 0.20
Procedure: Combine A in main kettle equipped with homongenizer. Heat to 75-80°C. Red 40 0.02
Mix until uniform. When at proper temperature, sequentially sprinkle in B. Mix until Glycerin 5.00
uniform. Switch to side sweep and cool. At 40-45°C; add C sequentially to main kettle.
Weigh D in side kettle and mix until uniform. Add to main kettle with slow mixing. Butylene Glycol 8.00
Product use: Massage gently on the face, avoiding eye area, to activate charcoal. B. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate
Allow to sit for a few minutes and rinse clean with warm water. Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, Seppic) 1.00
Polysorbate 20 1.30
Lip Glide Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Protachem CTG, Protameen
Chemicals Inc.) 7.00
(Grant Industries Inc.) Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc.) 7.00
A. Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 2.50% w/w Cetearyl Alcohol 4.40
Polybutene 5.00 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20
Silica 0.15 Undecane (and) Tridecane (and) Polysilicone-11 (Gransil OGH,
Octyl Palmitate (Protachem OP, Protameen Chemicals Inc.) 10.00 Grant Industries Inc.) 15.00
Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G, BASF SE) 8.75 C. Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
C13-15 Alkane/Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
(Gransil Sug, Grant Industries Inc.) 15.00 (Granactive Retinoid, Grant Industries Inc.) 1.00
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax 7.00 D. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010,
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10 schulke) 1.00
Beeswax 7.00 Water (aqua) (and) Carnosine (and) Glycerin (and)
Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone/Phenylsilsesquioxane Heptapeptide-7 (and) Propanediol (and) Xanthan Gum
Crosspolymer (Granpowder EDC-600, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00 (and) Lecithin (and) Citric Acid (and) Sodium Benzoate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00 (and) Potassium Sorbate (Gransome Heptapeptide-7,
Microcrystalline Wax 4.50 Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649, TCR 100.00
Industries Inc.) 10.00
B. Pigments 20.00 Procedure: Combine A in main kettle and homogenize at 70-75°C until uniform.
100.00 Combine B (Note: Red 40, 1% in glycerin) in a side kettle and mix at 70-75°C until
uniform. Add B to A while homogenizing. Mix until uniform. Cool batch with side sweep
to 30-40°C and add C. Mix until uniform. Add D and mix until uniform.
Procedure: Weigh A in the main kettle equipped with marine type propeller. Heat to
90-95°C and mix until uniform. Add B premix (see below) to main kettle and mix until
uniform. Pour samples at 85-90°C. B premix: D&C Red No. 28 (40% in castor oil)
= 50%; D&C Red No. 7 (40% in castor oil) = 30%; D&C Red No. 6 (30% in castor
oil) = 20%.

42 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


Milky Fluid Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone/Phenylsilsesquioxane
Crosspolymer (Granpowder EDC-600, Grant Industries Inc.) 10.73
(Grant Industries Inc.) Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (Gransurf
A. Water (aqua) 56.20% w/w 50C-HM, Grant Industries Inc.) 0.50
Xanthan Gum 0.50 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Gransurf 90, Grant
Glycerin 5.00 Industries Inc.) 2.00
Butylene Glycol 2.00 B. Mica (and) Iron Oxide Yellow (and) Titanium Dioxide (Timica
Water (aqua) (and) Honey Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Terra Yellow, BASF Corporation) 1.95
Sodium Benzoate (Healing Hive BCR, Bio Component Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide (Timica
Research) 5.00 Terra Red, BASF Corporation) 0.15
B. C14-22 Alcohols (and) C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide (Timica
(Montanov L, Seppic) 1.60 Terra Black, BASF Corporation) 0.05
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (Cetiol LC, BASF SE) 3.00 Silica DimethylSilylate (Aerosil R 972, Evonik Industries AG) 4.00
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00 100.00
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10
C. C9-12 Alkane (and) Polysilicone-11 (Gransil GVL-Lite, Grant Procedure: Weigh A in main kettle. Homogenize until unform. Switch to side sweep.
Industries Inc.) 20.00 Add B sequentially to main kettle. Mix until uniform.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate
Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, Seppic) 0.60 Quick Action CC Stick, SPF~30
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, (Grant Industries Inc.)
schulke) 1.00
100.00 A. Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Butyrospermum
Parkii (Shea) Butter (Gransil SBG-11, Grant Industries Inc.) 8.00% w/w
Procedure: Weigh A in main kettle equipped with homogenizer. Heat to 75-80°C. Mix Lecithin 0.50
until uniform. Weigh B in side kettle equipped with propeller and heat to 75-80°C. Mix Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone/Phenylsilsesquioxane
until uniform. Add B to main kettle and homogenize until uniform. Cool batch to 50°C Crosspolymer (Granpowder EDC-600, Grant Industries Inc.) 4.00
and add C to the main kettle while mixing. Mix until uniform. Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil 10.00
Glyceryl Oleate (Monomuls 90-O 18, BASF SE) 2.25
Minimalist 'ICloud' Blur Tocopheryl Acetate 1.00
(Grant Industries Inc.) Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 2.00
A. Water (aqua) 50.30% w/w Dimethicone (Gransil 530, Grant Industries Inc.) 1.50
Water (aqua) (and) Boswellia Serrata Extract (and) Centella Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Protachem CTG, Protameen
Asiatica Extract (and) Betula Alba Extract (and) Polygonum Chemicals Inc.) 15.00
Cuspidatum Root Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Beeswax 10.00
Sodium Benzoate (Youth 360 BCR, Bio Component Polyethylene (Performalene 400 Polyethylene, New Phase
Research) 5.00 Technologies Inc.) 10.00
Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Ethoxydiglycol (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Coconut Alkanes (and) Stearic Acid
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 (and) Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Coco-
Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Sodium Benzoate Caprylate/Caprate (UV Cut TiO2-60-VL, Grant Industries
(Granactive AGE, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00 Inc.) 10.00
Glycerin 5.00 Zinc Oxide (and) Coconut Alkanes (and) Polyhydroxystearic
B. Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer (Granpowder Acid (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Dimethicone
QSC, Grant Industries Inc.) 10.00 (UV Cut ZNO-72-NU, Grant Industries Inc.) 13.75
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate B. CI 77891 (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and)
Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, Seppic) 1.20 Triethoxycaprylylsilane (ALT-White TSR, Miyoshi America,
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, Inc.) 6.00
schulke) 1.00 CI 77492 1.25
Polysorbate 20 1.00 CI 77491 0.35
Polysilicone-11 (and) Water (aqua) (and) Barium Sulfate (and) CI 77499 0.10
Sodium Carbonate (and) Laureth-12 (and) Phenoxyethanol Mica 2.30
(and) Ethylhexylglycerin (Gransil Blur-X60, Grant Industries 100.00
Inc.) 20.00
Mica (and) CI 77891 (Timiron Super Gold, EMD Chemicals Procedure: Weigh A in main kettle equipped with a marine type propeller. Heat to
Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 1.50 85-90°C. Mix until uniform. Micro-pulverize B. Add to A. Mix until uniform. Pour
100.00 samples at 80-85°C.

Procedure: Combine A in main kettle equipped with side sweep. Sequentially add B Reverse Your Age Serum
to A in the main kettle. Mix well before each addition.
(Grant Industries Inc.)
Nude Glow Sun Defense, SPF 50 A. Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Gransurf 90,
(Grant Industries Inc.) Grant Industries Inc.) 2.00% w/w
Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (Gransurf
A. Isododecane 20.50% w/w 50C-HM, Grant Industries Inc.) 2.00
Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Octyl Palmitate (Protachem OP, Protameen Chemicals Inc.) 10.10
Propylene Carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V, Elementis) 12.19 Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) (Granactive Retinoid, Grant Industries Inc.) 1.00
Stearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (UV Dimethicone 20.00
Cut TiO2-55-CG, Grant Industries Inc.) 20.00 Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and)
Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Propylene Carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V, Elementis) 10.00
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (UV Cut ZnO-68-CG, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone/Phenylsilsesquioxane
Grant Industries Inc.) 25.00 Crosspolymer (Granpowder EDC-600, Grant Industries Inc.) 4.00
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Isododecane (Granresin Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 9.00
PMSQ-ID, Grant Industries Inc.) 2.93 B. Water (aqua) 21.20

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 43


Clean Beauty Demo Formulas

Butylene Glycol 8.00 B. Dimethicone 10.00


Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (Gransurf
schulke) 1.00 50C-HM, Grant Industries Inc.) 2.00
Sodium Chloride 0.50 PEG-10 Dimethicone (Gransurf 67, Grant Industries Inc.) 3.00
Water (aqua) (and) Carnosine (and) Glycerin (and) Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10
Heptapeptide-7 (and) Propanediol (and) Xanthan Gum Isononyl Isononanoate (Dermol 99, Alzo International Inc.) 5.00
(and) Lecithin (and) Citric Acid (and) Sodium Benzoate C13-15 Alkane/Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
(and) Potassium Sorbate (Gransome Heptapeptide-7, (Gransil Sug, Grant Industries Inc.) 10.00
Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00 Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00
Water (aqua) (and) Boswellia Serrata Extract (and) Centella Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 1.00
Asiatica Extract (and) Betula Alba Extract (and) Polygonum Lecithin 1.50
Cuspidatum Root Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) C. Mica 4.17
Sodium Benzoate (Youth 360 BCR, Bio Component CI 77891 4.67
Research) 5.00 Magnesium Myristate (BYO/MM3, Kobo Products Inc.) 0.83
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) CI 77491 (and) Magnesium Myristate (BRO/MM3, Kobo
Tin Oxide (Timiron Halo White, EMD Chemicals Inc.-RONA Products Inc.) 0.25
Cosmetic Business Unit) 1.20 Iron Oxides 77499 (and) Magnesium Myristate (BBO/MM3,
100.00 Kobo Products Inc.) 0.08
100.00
Procedure: Combine A in main kettle. Homogenize until uniform. Combine B in side
kettle. Mix until uniform. Add B to A and homogenize until uniform. Procedure: Weigh all of A except xanthan gum in a side kettle equipped with a marine
type propeller (Note: Sodium hyaluronate, 2% aq). Sprinkle in xanthan gum. Once gum
Simply Fresh Lotion is dispersed, heat to 70-75°C. Weigh B in the main kettle equipped with homogenizer.
Heat to 75-80°C. Micro-pulverize C and add to B. When both phases are at the proper
(Grant Industries Inc.) temperature, add A to BC. Mix until uniform. Switch to side sweep and cool to RT.
A. Water (aqua) 51.55% w/w
Glycerin 1.50 Softening SPF~15
Butylene Glycol 4.00 (Grant Industries Inc.)
Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Hexylene Glycol
(Diocide , Centerchem Inc.) 1.00 A. Water (aqua) 37.30% w/w
Water (aqua) (and) Honey Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Hexylene Glycol
Sodium Benzoate (Manuka Honey BT, Bio Component (Diocide , Centerchem Inc.) 1.00
Research) 1.00 Water (aqua) (and) Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract (and)
Steareth-21 2.50 Eleutherococcus Senticosus Root Extract (and) Rhaponticum
Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer (Granpowder Carthamoides Root Extract (and) Inonotus Obliquus
QSC, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00 (Mushroom) Extract (and) Selaginella Lepidophylla Extract
B. Xanthan Gum 0.20 (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Sodium Benzoate (Resurgent
C. Glyceryl Stearate 5.00 Power BCR, Bio Component Research) 1.00
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter 1.50 Water (aqua) (and) Propanediol (and) Polyglutamic Acid (and)
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 1.50 Phenoxyethanol (Biowave BCR, Bio Component Research) 1.00
Dimethicone 9.50 Propanediol (Zemea propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
Stearyl Alcohol 0.75 Products) 10.00
D. C13-15 Alkane/Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25
(Gransil Sug, Grant Industries Inc.) 15.00 Methacrylate Copolymer (Aristoflex HMB, Clariant Int., Ltd.) 0.75
100.00 B. Cetyl Phosphate (Amphisol A, DSM Personal Care) 3.25
C. Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone/Phenylsilsesquioxane
Procedure: Weigh A in the main kettle equipped with a homogenizer. Sprinkle in B. Crosspolymer (Granpowder EDC-600, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.50
Heat AB to 70-75°C. Weigh C in a side kettle. Heat to 75-80°C. When both phases Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Butyrospermum
are at the proper temperature, add C to AB. Mix until uniform. Add D to ABC. Mix until Parkii (Shea) Butter (Gransil SBG-11, Grant Industries Inc.) 8.00
uniform. Switch to side sweep and cool to RT. Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Extract 0.50
Simply Smooth Foundation Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 5.00
(Grant Industries Inc.) Cetyl Alcohol 3.00
Glyceryl Oleate (Monomuls 90-O 18, BASF SE) 5.00
A. Water (aqua) 28.70% w/w Isododecane (and) C24-28 Alkyldimethylsiloxy
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Granresin MQI-2450, Grant
Sorbate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Hexylene Glycol (Jeecide Industries Inc.) 8.00
CAP-5, Jeen International Corp.) 1.00 D. Zinc Oxide (and) Coconut Alkanes (and) Polyhydroxystearic
Glycerin 3.00 Acid (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol 7.00 (UV Cut ZNO-72-NU, Grant Industries Inc.) 10.50
Water (aqua) (and) Carnosine (and) Glycerin (and) 100.00
Heptapeptide-7 (and) Propanediol (and) Xanthan Gum
(and) Lecithin (and) Citric Acid (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Procedure: Weigh A in a side kettle equipped with side sweep agitation. Mix well until
Potassium Sorbate (Gransome Heptapeptide-7, Grant completely dispersed. Heat A to 70-75°C and add B. In the main kettle equipped with
Industries Inc.) 5.00 propeller mixer, heat and mix C to 70-75°C. When at proper temperature, add AB to
Water (aqua) (and) Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract (and) C. Mix well with homogenizer until uniform. Cool to 50°C using side sweep agitation.
Add D. Continue cooling to RT.
Eleutherococcus Senticosus Root Extract (and)
Rhaponticum Carthamoides Root Extract (and) Inonotus
Obliquus (Mushroom) Extract (and) Selaginella Lepidophylla
Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Sodium Benzoate
(Resurgent Power BCR, Bio Component Research) 2.00
Sodium Chloride 0.40
Sodium Hyaluronate 5.00
Xanthan Gum 0.30

44 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


Soothing Repair Night Serum Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (Cetiol LC, BASF SE) 4.00
(Grant Industries Inc.) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 1.00
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 1.50
A. Water (aqua) 11.55% w/w Glyceryl Stearate SE 6.50
Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced Stearic Acid 1.55
Materials, Inc.) 10.00 Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and)
Tromethamine (Tris Amino, The Dow Chemical Company) 0.15 Propylene Carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V, Elementis) 5.00
Decyl Glucoside 0.10 C. Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)
Water (aqua) (and) Honey Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (UV Cut ZnO-68-CG, Grant
Sodium Benzoate (Healing Hive BCR, Bio Component Industries Inc.) 18.25
Research) 5.00 Undecane (and) Tridecane (and) Polysilicone-11 (Gransil
Butylene Glycol 7.00 OGH, Grant Industries Inc.) 10.00
Glycerin 3.00 100.00
Caffeine 1.00
Trehalose 0.50 Procedure: Weigh A in main kettle equipped with homogenizer. Mix well until until
Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate (Lexgard gums are dispersed. Heat A to 75-80°C with mixing. Weigh B in a side kettle and
Natural, INOLEX) 1.00 heat to 80-85°C. When at proper temperature, add B to A. Mix until uniform. Add C
Disodium EDTA 0.10 sequentially. Mix until uniform. Cool to RT using side sweep agitation.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane/HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone
Crosspolymer (proposed) (Granpowder USQ, Grant Zinc Fluid, SPF-40
Industries Inc.) 5.00 (Grant Industries Inc.)
Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR, Aqualon /
Hercules) 10.00 A. Water (aqua) 12.00% w/w
B. Water (aqua) 12.00 Propanediol 7.00
Polyester-5 1.00 Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic Acid (and) Glycerin (and) Sorbic
C. C13-15 Alkane/Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer Acid (Geogard ECT, Lonza Home & Personal Care) 1.00
(Gransil Sug, Grant Industries Inc.) 20.00 Water (aqua) (and) Boswellia Serrata Extract (and) Centella
Isododecane (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) Water (aqua) Asiatica Extract (and) Betula Alba Extract (and) Polygonum
(and) Propanediol (and) Decyl Glucoside (Granresin SiW- Cuspidatum Root Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)
MQIZ, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00 Sodium Benzoate (Youth 360 BCR, Bio Component
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer/ Research) 3.00
Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel 600, Seppic) 1.30 Simethicone 0.10
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer Tromethamine 0.30
(Aristoflex AVC, Clariant Int., Ltd.) 0.10 Polysorbate 20 0.10
Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate B. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Finsolv TN, Innospec) 4.50
(Granactive Retinoid, Grant Industries Inc.) 1.00 Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (Cetiol LC, BASF SE) 3.00
D. Water (aqua) (and) Carnosine (and) Glycerin (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate 3.00
Heptapeptide-7 (and) Propanediol (and) Xanthan Gum Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate
(and) Lecithin (and) Citric Acid (and) Sodium Benzoate (Gransurf PG-14, Grant Industries Inc.) 8.00
(and) Potassium Sorbate (Gransome Heptapeptide-7, Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)
Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00 Polyhydroxystearic Acid (UV Cut ZnO-68-CG, Grant
E. Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil 0.20 Industries Inc.) 25.00
100.00 Lecithin 1.00
Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and)
Procedure: Weigh A in main kettle equipped with a homogenizer. Mix well. Weigh B Propylene Carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V, Elementis) 7.00
in a side kettle equipped with a propeller blade. Heat to 65-70°C and mix until clear. C. Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Butyrospermum
Add B to A under homogenizer and mix well. Weigh C in a side kettle equipped with Parkii (Shea) Butter (and) Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and)
a propeller. Mix well and add to AB slowly under homogenizer. Add D to ABC and mix Decyl Glucoside (Gransil SiW-038, Grant Industries Inc.) 10.00
well. Add E to ABCD under homogenizer and mix until uniform. Isododecane (and) Polymethylsilsesquioxane/
Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Granresin MQI-T50, Grant
Whip Fresh SPF-25 Industries Inc.) 10.00
(Grant Industries Inc.) Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc.) 3.00
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2.00
A. Water (aqua) 29.50% w/w
100.00
Citric Acid 0.30
Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Hexylene Glycol Procedure: Weigh B in main kettle equipped with homogenizer. Heat to 80-85°C and
(Diocide , Centerchem Inc.) 1.00 mix until uniform. Weigh A in side kettle. Heat to 70-75°C and mix well. Once each
Propanediol (Zemea propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio is at temperature, add A to main kettle and mix until uniform. Add C and mix until
Products) 5.00 uniform. Switch to side sweep agitation and cool to RT.
Glycerin 3.00
Water (aqua) (and) Propanediol (and) Polyglutamic Acid (and)
Phenoxyethanol (Biowave BCR, Bio Component Research) 2.50
Water (aqua) (and) Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract (and)
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract (and) Polygonum
Cuspidatum Root Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)
Sodium Benzoate (Pro Soleil BCR, Bio Component
Research) 1.00
Steareth-2 (Procol SA-2, Protameen Chemicals Inc.) 0.50
Ceratonia Siliqua Gum 0.75
Xanthan Gum 0.40
Sodium Citrate 0.50
B. Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone (Gransil VX-418, Grant Industries Inc.) 1.50
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Isododecane (Granresin
PMSQ-ID, Grant Industries Inc.) 6.25

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 45


Supplier Listing

This is an interactive PDF. Click on any supplier’s email


or web address to connect.
Darveja Ltd. The Hallstar Company
Domeikava Lithuania Chicago, IL USA
Tel: 37061628896 Tel: 1-877-427-4255, 1-312-385-
Alban Muller Cargill Beauty sales@darveja.lt 4494
Miami, FL USA Paris France darveja.lt Fax: 1-330-929-3616
Tel: 1-305-860-4088 Tel: 33-6-37-75-40-01 beautycs@hallstar.com
Fax: 1-305-860-4087 stephane_lacoutiere@cargill.com DSM Personal Care www.hallstar.com
usa@albanmuller.com www.cargillbeauty.com Parsippany, NJ USA
www.albanmuller.com Tel: 1-800-526-0189 I & W Research Inc.
CB Minerals LLC Info.pc-na@dsm.com West Vancouver, BC Canada
Amyris Inc. Mamaroneck, NY USA www.dsm.com/markets/personal- Tel: 1-866-783-0009, 1-360-326-
Emeryville, CA USA Tel: 1-914-777-3330 care/en_US/home.html 6446
Tel: 1-510-450-0761 info@cbminerals.com Fax: 1-360-326-6446
info@amyris.com www.cbminerals.com Earthoil Plantations Ltd. wpretorius@i-and-w.com
www.amyris.com Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk United www.i-and-w.com
Chemyunion Quimica Ltda. Kingdom
Aprinnova CEP 04144-020 Saude Sao Paulo, Tel: 44-0-1284-702500 Ingredion Inc.
Emeryville, CA USA Brazil Fax: 44-0-1284-703809 Westchester, IL USA
Tel: 1-510-917-1922 Tel: 55-11-2173-0103 sales@earthoil.com Tel: 1-708-551-2600
toner@aprinnova.com Fax: 55-11-2173-0100 www.earthoil.com cindy.yu@ingredion.com
aprinnova.com/ intlsales@chemyunion.com.br ingredion.com
www.chemyunion.com.br Eko-aromatik
Ashland LLC Ljubuski Bosnia-Herzegovina INOLEX
Wilmington, DE USA Clariant Int., Ltd. Tel: 38-76-359-5359 Philadelphia, PA USA
Tel: 1-800-505-8984 Muttenz Switzerland export@eko-aromatik.com Tel: 1-800-521-9891, 1-215-271-
janina.servino@ashland.com Tel: 41-61-469-5351 www.eko-aromatik.com 0800
www.ashland.com/personalcare anu.desikan@clariant.com Fax: 1-215-271-2621
BASF Corporation www.personalcare.clariant.com Elé Corporation info@INOLEX.com
Florham Park, NJ USA McCook, IL USA www.INOLEX.com
Tel: 1-800-880-5768 Coatex an Arkema Group Tel: 1-708-442-9100
Fax: 1-973-245-6764 Genay France sales@elecorporation.com International Cosmetics Science
beautycare-na@basf.com Tel: 33-0-4-72-08-20-00 www.elecorporation.com Centre A/S (ICSC)
personal-care.basf.com www.coatex.com/en/ Harlev J Denmark
Elementis Tel: 45-8622-9986
BASF SE Colonial Chemical Inc. East Windsor, NJ USA Fax: 45 86 229996
Ludwigshafen Germany South Pittsburg, TN USA Tel: 1-800-866-6800, 1-609-443-2500 info@icsc.dk
Tel: 1-800-531-0815, 49-00800- Tel: 1-800-830-2436, 1-423-837- Fax: 1-609-443-2422 www.icsc.dk
2273-4444 8800 kathleen.benditt@elementis.com
Fax: 49-211-7981-9727 Fax: 1-423-837-3888 www.elementis.com Jojoba Desert (A.C.S) Ltd.
beautycare-eu@basf.com jim@colonialchem.com Kibutz Hatzerim Israel
www.beautycare.basf.com/ www.colonialchem.com EMD Chemicals Inc.-RONA Tel: 972505421999
Cosmetic Business Unit Fax: 97286473690
Bio Component Research Cosphatec GmbH Gibbstown, NJ USA adva.ambar@jojobadesert.com
Elmwood Park, NJ USA Hamburg Germany Tel: 1-888-444-7762, 1-856-423-6300 www.jojobadesert.com
Tel: 1-201-791-8700 Tel: 49-0-40-3501669-0 Fax: 1-856-423-4389
info@bcringredients.com Fax: 49-0-40-350166910 rona@emdchemicals.com Kalaroma LLC
www.bcringredients.com info@cosphatec.com www.rona.biz Union, NJ USA
www.cosphatec.com Tel: 9088666450
Bio-Botanica Inc. Floratech purchasing@kalaroma.com
Hauppauge, NY USA Croda Chandler, AZ USA www.shamanoils.com
Tel: 1-800-645-5720, 1-631-231- Edison, NJ USA Tel: 1-480-545-7000
5522 Tel: 1-800-526-5294, 1-732-417- Fax: 1-480-892-3000 Lubrizol Advanced Materials,
Fax: 1-631-231-7332 0800 sales@floratech.com Inc.
msysler@bio-botanica.com Fax: 1-732-417-0804 www.floratech.com Brecksville, OH USA
www.bio-botanica.com thomas.castles@croda.com Tel: 1-800-379-5389, 1-216-447-
www.crodapersonalcare.com Grant Industries Inc. 5000
Botanic Innovations, LLC Elmwood Park, NJ USA Fax: 1-216-447-5740
Spooner, WI USA Tel: 1-201-791-8700 personalcare@lubrizol.com
Crodarom SAS
Tel: 1-800-719-9878, 1-715-635- Fax: 1-201-791-3887 www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
48230 Chanac France
7513 Tel: 33-4-66-48-20-27 info@grantinc.com
Fax: 1-715-635-7519 www.crodarom.com www.grantinc.com
rebecca@botanicinnovations.com
www.botanicinnovations.com

46 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.grantinc.com 2019 Clean Beauty E-book


Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Novel Nutrients Pvt. Ltd. Sederma Silab
Quebec, QC Canada Bangalore India 78612 Le Perray-en-Yvelines Brive France
Tel: 1-877-886-4739, 1-418-653- Tel: 91-80-3221-6948, 91-96-2017- Cedex France Tel: 33-0-5-55-84-58-40
6888 7557 Tel: 33-0-1-34-84-10-10 Fax: 33-0-5-55-84-95-64
Fax: 1-418-653-6005 Fax: 91-80-3221-6948 Fax: 33-0-1-34-84-11-30 silab@silab.fr
info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com marketing2@novelnutrient.com sederma@sederma.fr www.silab.fr
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com www.novelnutrient.com/ www.sederma.com
Stepan Co.
Merck KGaA Oat Cosmetics Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Northfield, IL USA
D64293 Darmstadt Germany Hampshire United Kingdom Osaka Japan Tel: 1-800-745-7837, 1-847-446-7500
Tel: 49-6151-72-20-98 Tel: 011-00-44-2380-767-228 Tel: 81-72-987-2072, 81-72-987- Fax: 1-847-501-2443
Fax: 49-6151-72-31-10 cometics@oat.co.uk 2626 www.stepan.com
cosmetic@merck.de oat.co.uk sales@seiwakasei.co.jp
www.merck.de www.seiwakasei.co.jp/en/ Symrise, Inc.
Renmatix Teterboro, NJ USA
Natural Sourcing King of Prussia, PA USA Sharon Laboratories Ltd. Tel: 1-201-288-3200
Oxford, CT USA Tel: 1-484-751-4065 Ashdod Israel michelle.wade@symrise.com
Tel: 1-800-340-0080, 1-203-702- tony.abboud@renmatix.com Tel: 972-8-8549800 symrise.com
2500 renmatix.com/ Fax: 972-8-8679636
Fax: 1-203-702-2501 info@sharon-labs.co.il VAV Lipids Pvt. Ltd.
info@naturalsourcing.com schülke www.sharon-labs.com Mumbai India
www.naturalsourcing.com Norderstedt Germany Tel: 91-22-2283-6802
Tel: 49-40-521-00-0 Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Fax: 91-22-228-36809
Nouryon (formerly AkzoNobel Fax: 49-40-521-244 Inc. janhavi@vav.in
Specialty Chemicals) sai@schuelke.com Akron, OH USA www.vav.in
Amsterdam Netherlands www.schuelke.com Tel: 1-800-544-1745, 1-973-339-
Tel: 31-88-969-78-09 9077
www.nouryon.com/ Fax: 1-330-630-9855
ebishop@shinetsusilicones.com
www.shinetsusilicones.com

2019 Clean Beauty E-book www.grantinc.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 47

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