The process of applying color to fiber stock, yarn or fabric is called  

dyeing." There may or may not be thorough

penetration of the colorant into the fibers or yarns.

Dyes can be used on vegetable, animal or man made fibers only if they have affinity to them. Textile dyes include
acid dyes, used mainly for dyeing wool, silk and nylon and direct or substantive dyes, which have a strong affinity for
cellulose fibers. Mordant dyes require the addition of chemical substances, such as salts to give them an affinity for
the material being dyed. They are applied to cellulose fibers, wool or silk after such materials have been treated with
metal salts. Sulfur dyes, used to dye cellulose, are inexpensive, but produce colors lacking brilliance. Azoic dyes are
insoluble pigments formed within the fiber by padding, first with a soluble coupling compound and then with a
diazotized base. Vat dyes, insoluble in water, are converted into soluble colorless compounds by means of alkaline
sodium hydrosulfite. These colorless compounds are absorbed by the cellulose, which are subsequently oxidized to an
insoluble pigment. Such dyes are colorfast. Disperse dyes are suspensions of finely divided insoluble, organic
pigments used to dye such hydrophobic fibers as polyesters, nylon and cellulose acetates.

Reactive dyes combine directly with the fiber, resulting in excellent colorfastness. The first ranges of reactive dyes for
cellulose fibers were introduced in the mid-1950. Today, a wide variety is available.

Methods of Dyeing

1) Bale Dyeing:
This is a low cost method to dye cotton cloth. The material is sent without scouring or singeing, through a cold water
bath where the sized warp has affinity for the dye. Imitation chambray and comparable fabrics are often dyed this
way.

2) Batik Dyeing:
This is one of the oldest forms known to man. It originated in Java. Portions of the fabric are coated with wax so that
only un-waxed areas will take on the dye matter. The operation may be repeated several times and several colors may
used for the bizarre effects. Motifs show a mlange, mottled or streaked effect, imitated in machine printing.

3) Beam Dyeing:
In this method the warp is dyed prior to weaving. It is wound onto a perforated beam and the dye is forced
through the perforations thereby saturating the yarn with color.

4) Burl or speck Dyeing:

This is done mostly on woolens or worsteds, colored specks and blemishes are covered by the use of
special colored links which come in many colors and shades. It is a hand operation.

5) Chain Dyeing:
This is used when yarns and cloth are low in tensile strength. Several cuts or pieces of cloth are tacked
end-to-end and run through in a continuous chain in the dye color. This method affords high production.

6) Cross Dyeing:
This is a very popular method in which varied color effects are obtained in the one dye bath for a cloth which contains
fibers with varying affinities for the dye used. For example, a blue dyestuff might give nylon 6 a dark blue shade,
nylon 6, 6 a light blue shade, and have no affinity for polyester area unscathed or white.

7) Jig Dyeing:
This is done in a jig, kier, vat, beck or vessel in an open formation of the goods. The fabric goes from one roller to
another through a deep dye bath until the desired shade is achieved.

8) Piece Dyeing:
The dyeing of fabrics in the cut, bolt or piece form is called piece dyeing. It follows the weaving of the goods and
provides a single color for the material, such as blue serge, a green organdy.

9) Random Dyeing:
Coloring only certain designated portions of the yarn. There are three ways of doing this type of coloring:

Skeins may be tightly dyed in two or more places and dyed at one side of the dye with one color and at the other side
with another one. Color may be printed onto the skeins which are spread out on the blanket fabric of the printing
machine.

Cones or packages of yarn on hollow spindles may be arranged to form channels through which the yarn, by means of
air-operated punch, and the dyestuff are drawn through these holes by suction. The yarn in the immediate area of the
punch absorbs the dye and the random effects are thereby attained.

10) Raw Stock Dyeing:

Dyeing of fiber stock precedes spinning of the yarn. Dyeing follows the degreasing of wool fibers and drying of the
stock.

11) Solution Dyeing:

This is also called dope dyeing or spun dyeing; the pigment color is bonded-in in the solution and is picked up as the
filaments are being formed in the liquor. Cellulosic and non-cellulosic fibers are dyed to perfection by this method.
The colors are bright, clear, clean and fast.

12) Yarn dyed:

Yarn which has been dyed prior to the weaving of the goods; follows spinning of the yarn. It may be done in either
partial immersion or total immersion of the yarn.

Process of Dyeing

The dyeing of a textile fiber is carried out in a solution, generally aqueous, known as the dye liquor or dye bath. For
true dyeing to have taken place, coloration of fabric and absorption are important determinants.
 Coloration:
The coloration must be relatively permanent: that is not readily removed by rinsing in water or by normal washing
procedures. Moreover, the dyeing must not fade rapidly on exposure to light.

Absorption:
The process of attachment of the dye molecule to the fiber is one of absorption: that is the dye molecules concentrate
on the fiber surface. There are four kinds of forces by which dye molecules are bound to the fiber:

1) Ionic forces 2) Hydrogen bonding 3) Vander Wals' forces and 4) Covalent chemical linkages

Dyeing of Wool:
In the dyeing of wool which is a complex protein containing about 20 different amino acids, the sulfuric acid added
to the dye bath forms ionic linkages with the amino groups of the protein. In the process of dyeing, the sulfate anion
(negative ion) is replaced by a dye anion. In the dyeing of wool, silk and synthetic fibers, hydrogen bonds are probably
set up between the azo, amino, alkyl amino and other groups and the amino Co-NH-groups. Covalent chemical links
are brought about in the dye-bath by chemical reaction between a fiber-reactive dye molecule, one containing a
chemically reactive center and a hydro-oxy group of a cotton fiber, in the presence of alkali.

The Chemistry of the Dyeing Process

Exhaustion in any dyeing process, whatever the chemical class of dye being used, heat must be supplied to the dye
bath; energy is used in transferring dye molecules from the solution to the fiber as well as in swelling the fiber to
render it more receptive. The technical term for this process is exhaustion. Levelness: An Important Quality

Evenness of dyeing, known as levelness is an important quality in the dyeing of all forms of natural and synthetic
fibers. It may be attained by the control of dyeing conditions viz.

1. By agitation to ensure proper contact between dye liquor and substance being dyed and by use of restraining
agents to control rate of dyeing or strike. Solvent Dyeing Serious consideration has recently been given to the methods
of dyeing in which water as the medium is replaced by solvents such as the chlorinated hydrocarbons used in dry
cleaning. The technological advantages in solvent dyeing are: 1. Rapid wetting of textiles

2. Less swelling

3. Increased speed of dyeing per given amount of material

4. Savings in energy, as less heat is required to heat or evaporate per-chloro-ethylene. Thus it eliminates the
effluent (pollution) problems associated with the conventional methods of dyeing and finishing.

 
Machinery and Equipment: Modern dyeing machines are made from stainless steels. Steels containing up to
4% molybdenum are favored to withstand the acid conditions that are common.

A dyeing machine consists essentially of a vessel to contain the dye liquor, provided with equipment for heating,
cooling and circulating the liquor into and around the goods to be dyed or moving the goods through the dye liquor.
The kind of machine employed depends on the nature of the goods to be dyed. Labor and energy costs are high in
relation to total dyeing costs: the dyers aim is to shorten dyeing times to save steam and electrical power and to avoid
spoilage of goods.

The conical-pan loose-stock machine is a widely used machine. Fibers are held in an inner truncated conical vessel
while the hot dye liquor is mechanically pumped through. The fiber mass tends to become compressed in the upper
narrow half of the cone, assisting efficient circulation. Leveling problems are less important as uniformity may be
achieved by blending the dyed fibers prior to spinning.
 The Hussong machine is the traditional apparatus. It has a long, square-ended tank as a dye bath into which a
framework of poles carrying hanks can be lowered. The dye liquor is circulated by an impeller and moves through a
perforated false bottom that also houses the open steam pipe for heating. In modern machines, circulation is
improved at the points of contact between hank and pole. This leads to better leveling and elimination of irregularities
caused by uneven cooling. In package-dyeing machines dye color may be pumped in rather two directions:

1. Through the perforated central spindle and outward through the package or

2. By the reverse path into the outer layers of the package and out of the spindle. In either case levelness is
important.

Some package-dyeing machines are capable of working under pressure at temperatures up to 130C.

The winch is the oldest piece of dyeing machine and takes its name from the slated roller that moves an endless rope
of cloth or endless belt of cloth at full width through the dye liquor. Pressurized-winch machines have been developed
in the U.S.

In an entirely new concept, the Gaston County jet machine circulates fabric in rope form through a pipe by means of a
high-pressure jet of dye color. The jet machine is increasingly important in high-temperature dyeing of synthetic
fibers, especially polyester fabrics. Another machine is the jig. It has a V-shaped trough holding the dye color and
guide rollers to carry the cloth at full width between two external, powered rollers, the cloth is wound onto each roller
alternately, that is, the cloth is first moved forward, then backward through the dye color until dyeing is complete.
Modern machines, automatically controlled and programmed, can be built to work under pressure.

Dyeing of polyester yarn is a difficult process as it is made from a thermoplastic polymer,

which has highly crystalline structure. ... The dyeing of polyester yarn with
disperse dyes results in adsorption of the dyestuff on to the yarn surface and diffusion of
the dye into yarn.

 Method of polyester dyeing : 

There are 3 methods of polyester dyeing .they are
  Carrier method
  Pad thermosol method
  High temperature high pressure method
 

  Polyester Dyeing process

.  Carrier method:
This process is used for dyeing polyester/cellulosic fibre fabrics in jigger or winch-beck.
Dye paste with dispersing agent with water
 Raise temp 60*C & add chemicals with materials
 
 Maintain pH with acetic acid 4.5-5.5
 Raise temp 95*C for 45 min
Wash
               
Dry
Delivery
 .  HTHP METHOD :
Paste dye  with dispersing agent
 pH control with acetic acid&  keep it 4.5-5.5
     
add material at 60*C
 raise temperature at 130 & run the bath for 1 hr
       
 rinse & wash 
  
 dry & delivery
  process curve : 

Save

.  pad thermosol method

it is a continuous method of dyeing . in this process 180-220* C temp is needed. Dyeing can be
possible within very short time like 1-2 min. it has 4 steps

1. padding

2. drying

3. thermofixing
 4. after treatment

  Process:
 padded with dye with chemical
dryed in IR dryer
thermosol unit in 180-220 *C for  60-90s
wash to remove unfixed dye
 

  Thermosol process curve

Part 1 : Disperse Dye for Polyester | Why called disperse dye | Application and mechanism 
Part 3 : Auxilaries Of Disperse Dye
  Why called disperse dye
Disperse dye are the smallest dye of all dyes. They are insoluble in water. When they are applied to
the dye bath, they form dispersion. They are free from ionized group. So they have low solubility
in water& are suitable for dyeing hydrophobic fibres.
  APPLICATION
Disperse dye are mainly suitable for coloring hydrophobic fiber such as
  cellulose ,
  tri-acetate ,
  polyamide ,
  polyester ,
  polyamide ,
  polyacrylo nitrile etc.
They have become especially important, for polyester fibres as they are widely used as a
blends with cotton, wool, or any other man made fibres . Disperse dyes are also used to color
plastic jwellery, PVC rods and PVC/ PES film. 
 FEATURES

1. Synthetic dye & free from ionizing group.

2. Non soluble & molecularly disperse therefore dispersing agent is necessary for coloration.

3. Fastness property specially wet & light fastness is good to excellent

4. Molecular size is the smallest than other dye

5. Economical

6. Applied in acidic condition.

7. High temperature is needed.

8. Dyes are derivative of azo , anthroquinone , nitro & quinine group.

9. Dye molecules contained a methyl amino sulpher group (-NHCH2SO3Na).

Dye-NH-CH2SO3Na + H2O            NH2-Dye +CH2O + NaHSO3

  CHEMICAL CLASSIFICATION:
Mono azo —- 50%
Anthraquinone —25%
Diazo—-10%
Others —-15%

MOLECULAR DYEING SUBLIMATION

CLASSIFICATION POLARITY
WT RATE FASTNESS

LOW ENERGY LOW LOW HIGH LOW

Medium energy Medium Medium medium medium

High energy High High Low high

  MECHANISM OF DYEING
Main mechanism of dyeing is to swelling the fibre so that dye molecule gets enough space to stay
inside the fibre. In hydrophilic fibre such as cotton this swelling is done by wetting. But when we dye
polyester fibre , due to compact structure it is not able to swell on wetting. So it is hydrophobic fibre.
Its MR% is .04% so it is highly hydrophobic. So it needs special arrangement.
 Swelling is done by applying chemical or heat. The chemical which swell fibre
called carrier. Heating of dye liquor swells the fibre to open up  and assists the dye to penetrate the
fibre polymer system. Thus the dye molecule takes its place in the amorphous regions of the fibre.
Once taking place within the fibre polymer system, the dye molecules are held by hydrogen bonds
and Van Der Waals’ force. When the system is taken off the molecular area shrunk & dye molecules
are entrapped inside the polymer.

Polyester fibre contains pores or canals within its structure which, when heated to 100°C, expand to
allow particles of the dyes to enter. The expansion of the pores is limited by the heat of the water –
industrial dyeing of polyester is carried out at 130°C in pressurised equipment. Dispersal fast yellow
G, fast orange G violet 2R blue GN etc are some suitable for polyester  at boiling temperature
without carrier.
 

Save

  Method of dyeing:
There are 3 methods of polyester dyeing .they are
  High temperature high pressure method
  Pad thermosol method
  Carrier method
  COMPARISION AMONG 3 PROCESS :

PARAMETER CARRIER HTHP  THERMOSOL

 Carrier is used for
Swelling temperature Temperature
swelling

Temp 90 -95*C 130-160*C  180-220*C

Time 45 min 60 min  2-5 min

Effect on
Not environment  friendly Friendly Friendly
environment

 Fastness property
Fastness  Light fastness not good Good
is good to excellent

Molecular wt of dye Low higher medium

application Wool/PE CVC, TC TC, POLYESTER

Disperse Dye for Polyester

 Auxilaries Of Disperse Dye

. Carrier :
The extreme crystalline nature of polyester fibre creates problem in
obtaining dark shade by conventional dyeing method even at high
temperature. The  carrier are found to assist the disperse dyes to
enter the polyester polymer. The carriers swells the polyester fibre  & 
increase the inter polymer space & let the dye molecule to inter into
the fibre easily.
  Properties :
❶  Low molecular weight.
❷  Organic compound.
❸  Mainly aromatic compound of low water soluble.
❹  Anionic emulsifying agent.
❺  Lowering Tg thus promote chain movement & create free volume.
  SELECTION CRITERIA
When selecting a carrier for use in dyeing of polyester following point
should be considered………
❶  High carrier efficiency.
❷  Availability at low cost.
❸  Little or no effect on light fastness.
❹  Absence of unpleasant odor.
❺  Non toxic
❻  No degradation or discoloration
❼  Easy removal from the bath
❽  Compatibility with dye.
❾  Volatile
  Chemical used as carrier
❶  Phenol
❷  Benzoic salylate
❸  O-phenol
❹  Di-phenol
❺  P-phenol
❻  Salicylic acid
  Advantage
❶  m/c can be operate in atmospheric pressure
❷  reducing dyeing cycle
❸  improve fastness properties .
❹  level dyeing
  Disadvantage
❶  Unpleasant odour.
❷  Used only for blend of wool & polyester.
 .  Dispersing agent
Disperse dye produce dispersion in water. To uniform dyeing bath
should be stable dispersion & this is why a special chemical is used in
dye bath named dispersing agent. They should be effective under
dyeing condition, stable to hard water, high temperature  & other
dyeing assistants.
Disperse dye are smallest dye. They form aggregation when they are
applied to the bath. They produce a lamp & create a large size
particle. This could not enter inside the polymer so dye particle should
be individualized to enter inside the fiber. So dispersing agent is
added. It separates the particle & produces dispersion in the dye bath.
  Function of the dispersing agent
The dispersing agent performs many function .such as……
❶  Assist the process of particle size reduction of dye .
❷  Enable the dye to be formed in the powder form
❸  Maintain the dispersion in a fine form throughout the dyeing
process.
❹  Increase the stability
  Solubility effect:

Save
  Chemicals used as dispersing agent
❶  Soap powder
❷  TRO
❸  Alkylaryl sulphonate
❹  Nopholene-B- sulphonate
❺  Formaldehyde
❻  Setamol BASF
❼  Edalon Sandoz
  Criteria of choosing the disperse dye for combine
shade
❶  The dyes should have or nearly same substantivity towards the
fibers.
❷  The dye should have same hydrophobicity.
❸  Their characteristic should be same or nearly same.
❹  Should be same energy level
❺  Should have same dyeing method
❻  Same diffusion number
  Diffusion number
The number provides a basis of selection dye for producing
combination shades
  Trade / commercial name of dispersing agent
NAME MANUFACTURER COUNTRY

Artisil sandoz Switzerland

ciba ciba Switzerland

dispersol ICI UK

samron hoechest West Germany

terasil ciba Switzerland

Dear Tariq sb,

It is a specialized yarn and we have already taken up the matter with the supplier, for further
improvement in yarn quality supplier will try to improve the yarn quality in next deliveries. Supplier has
shared concerns due to multiple processing involved they can eliminate the problem up to certain
extant. Meanwhile we are working on the alternative 150/36/2, which is in process.
1. Dyes for Synthetic Fiber Disperse Dye (polyester, nylon, and acetate) (non-ionic)The dye is
named from less water solubleand normally appeared in dispersion in water.The dye shows
no charge due to the groupspresented in the dye molecules. Dyeing Conditions Insoluble
Less water Water insoluble dye in soluble in polyester water fibers 25
2. 26. 1. Exhaustion Process1.1 At boil with carrierThis process is suitable for acetate fiber
andpale shade polyester fiber dyeing. Carrier isan auxiliary for swollen fiber in order toallow
more dyes absorbing in. Now the useof carrier is reduced because it may be
acarcinogen.1.2 At 130oC without carrierWith the high temperature, the dyes will
bedissolved into smaller molecules and the voidin fiber structure will be opened. This willgive
heavy shade. 26
3. 27. 2. Continuous ProcessPad --> Pre-dry (100oC x 30 sec) -->Thermofixation (180oC x 30
sec) -->reduction clearing (RC) --> wash --> dry Printing with Disperse DyesWith the
sublimation property, the dyes canbe printed on paper, place the fabric with aprinted paper
and then using an iron withhigh temperature pressed on the paper. Thedyes will transfer
from paper to polyesterfiber. This is called “Transfer Printing”. 27