Sensitive Emollient

Conditioning

Cromollient SCE ™ Product Category: Emollient Ester

INCI Name: Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate
Physical Form: Clear Liquid
Mildness and suitability for sensitive skin are important claims for cleansers
and baby products, but often the surfactants used in these products have Use Levels: 1-25%
the potential to damage delicate skin. Cromollient SCE has been specifically
developed to mitigate irritation from surfactants and enhance sensory benefits Product Datasheet: DS1707
in a wide range of applications. Cromollient SCE is a multifunctional emollient, US Patents: 6,476,254 and 7,091,243
ideal for use in creams, lotions and surfactant based systems.
Major Benefits: n Exceptionally mild n Provides a moisturised and soft skin after feel
n Enhances slip and detangling n Improves wet combing
n Mitigates surfactant irritation
Unique Features: n Water dispersible n Surfactant soluble n Does not depress foam
n Suitable for clear systems
Applications: n Facial cleansers n Liquid soaps n Body washes n Shampoos
n Skin and scalp treatments n Baby products n Creams and lotions
n After shave products n Anti-acne products

Innovation you can build on™

Formulating with Cromollient SCE Intercellular Leakage of MDCK Cells

Cromollient SCE is a versatile product that is compatible with a wide range

of surfactants and other personal care ingredients. Cromollient SCE can A

solubilise difficult materials like benzophenone-3 at concentration levels up

to 25%. Cromollient SCE works especially well in clear surfactant systems
and has no negative effect on foaming when used at levels up to 3% active. Commercial
Body Washes B

In Vitro Irritation Mitigation

Mildness and suitability for sensitive skin are important claims for personal
care products aimed at babies, children and adults. Cromollient SCE was
proven, using the trans-epithelial penetration (TEP) model, to mitigate the
irritation of a commercial baby shampoo labelled as mild and gentle. The
TEP model uses the fluorescein leakage between a single layer of Marin
Darby Canine Kidney (MDCK) cells as an indicator of irritation. As shown in
Figure 1, confluent cells exhibiting no intercellular leakage indicate that
there has been no irritation, whereas denuded cells exhibiting high levels
of intercellular leakage indicate that irritation has occurred. The product
was diluted in physiological saline at ratios of 1:50 and 1:100 to represent
typical usage dilutions. Figure 2 shows the reduction in intercellular
leakage when Cromollient SCE was added to each dilution.
Figure 1: Confluent cell monolayer (left) and denuded cells after treatment with a 1:100
dilution of commercial baby shampoo (right)
Intercellular Leakage of MDCK Cells
C
Irritation Reduction
0 20 40 60 80 100
% Intercellular Leakage
Market Brand + 5% Cromollient SCE Market Brand
Figure 3: Decreased intercellular leakage was observed in skin treated with a market brand
adult body wash containing 5% Cromollient SCE
Enhances Slip and Detangling
In adult shampoos, Cromollient SCE can be used with polycationic
conditioning compounds, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, to
improve detangling performance. A leading adult shampoo, containing guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride as the primary conditioning and detangling
aid, was tested with and without the addition of 1% Cromollient SCE. As a
baseline, hair tresses were treated with a 10% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
solution and a wet combing evaluation was completed. The tresses were
then treated with the two shampoos and wet combing was assessed again.
The addition of 1% Cromollient SCE significantly reduced the peak load
(detangling) force during wet combing.
Wet Combing Performance

1:100
Total Work
Concentration

1:50 Peak Load

Irritation Reduction Improved Conditioning

0 20 40 60 80 0 40 80 120 160 200

% Intercellular Leakage % Change

Market Brand + 5% Cromollient SCE Market Brand Market Brand + 1% Cromollient SCE Market Brand

Figure 2: Results show decreased intercellular leakage in skin treated with a market brand Figure 4: Results show a decrease in the forces required to comb hair treated with a market
baby shampoo containing 5% Cromollient SCE brand shampoo containing 1% Cromollient SCE

In addition to the study above, the ability of Cromollient SCE to reduce
irritation in commercial body washes for adults was tested. Cromollient SCE
was added to three different brands of commercially available body washes
and compared to the body wash as sold. The addition of Cromollient SCE
to the formulation decreases irritation by at least 20% in each of the
brands, as shown in Figure 3.
Ameliorates Surfactant Skin Irritation
SLS and other harsh surfactants common in personal care products can
irritate and inflame the skin. A 24 hour closed patch test was conducted on
four subjects to assess whether or not Cromollient SCE ameliorates skin
irritation of 98% SLS. Six test sites on the arm were each treated with one
of the solutions found in Table 1. The sites were covered with a patch, and
after 24 hours were examined using a Chromameter and a Scanning

Sensitive Conditioning Emollient

 15% Active Surfactant System with vs. without Cromollient SCE
Laser Doppler Imager. Figure 5 and Table 1 show that Cromollient SCE is
not irritating to the skin by itself, and provide further evidence that it can 50
Data statistically significant
mitigate the irritation and inflammation caused by SLS.
40

% Change 30 26.92
in Perfusion
19.44%
1 Value 20
2
3 Less
10 7.52 Skin
Irritation
0
6
5 High Surfactant without High Surfactant with 3%
Cromollient SCE Cromollient SCE
4
Figure 6: The addition of 3% Cromollient SCE reduces skin irritation by an average of 19.44%

Reduces Skin Dryness

0 37 75 112
Figure 5: Chromameter (left) and Scanning Laser Doppler (right) images. Areas of white and
red show areas of increased irritation
Site Solution
1 1% SLS & 1% Cromollient SCE
2 1% SLS & 5% Cromollient SCE
3 1% SLS & 10% Cromollient SCE
4 Distilled deionised water
5 1% SLS
6 100% Cromollient SCE
150 0 175 350 525 700
A Corneometer Study was used to investigate the dryness reducing properties
of Cromollient SCE in high surfactant systems. In this study, two 15%
active surfactant formulations were tested with and without the addition of
3% Cromollient SCE using a 24 hour patch occlusion test (Table 2). A
Trial Grade Flux specified amount of each formulation was applied to the volar forearm of
Slight irritation with erythema 179.1 20 internal panellists and covered with a small patch. Corneometer
Some erythema, dryness present 139.3 measurements were taken before and after the 24 hour time period, and
Some erythema 107.4 the percent change in Corneo value was used to assess the effect of
Some erythema 105.8 Cromollient SCE on skin hydration. Figure 7 suggests that Cromollient SCE
improves skin hydration by reducing its dryness. Similar results were
Severe irritation with edema 815.5
obtained when repeating this study using a low surfactant system.
No irritation 91.6
15% Active Surfactant System with vs. without Cromollient SCE

Table 1: Sites where Cromollient SCE was applied with SLS show lower flux 0
Significant at
95% confidence
Less Skin
Laser Doppler Imagery was also used to assess the irritation mitigation -10
Dryness
potential of Cromollient SCE in high surfactant systems. In this study, two 15%
active surfactant formulations were tested with and without the addition of % Change -20
in Skin
3% Cromollient SCE using a 24 hour patch occlusion test (Table 2). A Dryness -30
specified amount of each sample was applied to the volar forearm of 20 -31.51
internal panellists and covered with a small patch. Skin perfusion values -40
were measured on the skin before and after the 24 hour time period to -41.90
10.39%
assess the irritation mitigation capabilities of Cromollient SCE on the skin. -50
In this case, a higher percent change in perfusion value indicates more skin
High Surfactant without High Surfactant with 3%
irritation, whilst a lower percent change suggests less irritation. Figure 6 Cromollient SCE Cromollient SCE
shows that Cromollient SCE is able to reduce skin irritation in a 15%
active surfactant system. Directionally similar results were obtained when Figure 7: The addition of 3% Cromollient SCE significantly reduces skin dryness by an
average of 10.39%
repeating this study using a low surfactant system.
No Cromollient SCE With 3% Cromollient SCE Clear Consumer Preference
Ingredient % w/w % w/w
Part A To evaluate the sensory differences between high surfactant systems with
Deionized Water (Aqua) 47.00 44.00 and without 3% Cromollient SCE, 18 panellists participated in a forced
preference hand wash test in North America. Upon dry evaluation, the
Part B
formulation with Cromollient SCE was perceived to provide significantly
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (30% Solution) 32.00 32.00 better softness and a more moisturised after feel compared to the
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30% Solution) 15.00 15.00 formulation without. Overall, nearly 78% of panellists preferred the
Crodateric™ CAB 30 (Cocoamidopropyl 6.00 6.00 formulation containing Cromollient SCE, as shown in Figure 8. Similar
Betaine) results were obtained when repeating this study in North America using a
Cromollient SCE (Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 0.00 3.00 low surfactant system, as well as when repeating this study in Asia using
Adipate ) a low surfactant system on Asian skin.

Table 2: 15% active high surfactant formulations

Innovation you can build on™

15% Active Surfactant System with vs. without Cromollient SCE
Clear Hydration Body Wash ED 0048 a
100
Hydrate your sensitive skin with this mild, clear and moisturising body wash.
75
Ingredients Functionality % w/w

% People
Part A
50
Preferred Deionised Water (Aqua) – 38.00
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (30%) Surfactant 32.00
23 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30%) Surfactant 15.00
Crodateric CAB 30 (Cocoamidopropyl Betaine)1 Surfactant 6.00
0 Versathix™ (PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) Rheology 3.00
Softer Moisturised Overall PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide (and) Water (Aqua))1 modifier
High Surfactant without High Surfactant with 3% Cromollient SCE (Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate)1 Emollient 3.00
Cromollient SCE Cromollient SCE Glycerox™ 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides)1 Emollient 1.00
Part B
Figure 8: The high surfactant system containing 3% Cromollient SCE was preferred
by consumers Hydrosativum P (Hydrolyzed Pea Protein)1 Moisturising active 0.50
Coconut Water EC (Water (Aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Botanical 1.00
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Water)2
No “Knot-Sense” Kid’s Shampoo SH-147
Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)3 Preservative 0.50
Our No “Knot-Sense” Kid’s Shampoo is designed to clean effectively Citric Acid 50% solution Neutraliser To pH 6.0-6.5
without stripping away natural lipids.
Suppliers: 1. Croda 2. Crodarom 3. Schülke Inc.
Ingredients Functionality % w/w Procedure: Weigh out water and surfactant into large beaker and mix at low speed and
Part A start heating to 55°C. Once the temperature reaches 55°C, add Versathix and mix until
Deionised Water (Aqua) – 67.20 homogenous. Add Cromollient SCE and Glycerox 767 and continue mixing. Add Part B,
once temperature reach to 40C. Adjust pH to 6.0-6.5
Crodateric CAB 30 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)1 Surfactant 12.00 EUXYL is a registered trademark of Schülke & Mayr GmbH
Tween™ 28 (PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate)1 Solubiliser 7.00
Crodateric CAS 50 (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine)1 Surfactant 3.00
Urban Shield Face Wash for Sensitive Skin ED 0047 a
Crodateric CDA 40 (Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate)1 Surfactant 3.00
Arlasilk™ EFA (Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Conditioning agent 0.60 Gently detoxify and protect your face from the everyday assault of pollution.
Chloride Phosphate)1
Incroquat™ SL-5 (Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Conditioning agent 0.60 Ingredients Functionality % w/w
Linoleammonium Chloride)1 Part A
Cromollient SCE (Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate)1 Emollient 3.00 Deionised Water (Aqua) – 74.50
Methylisothiazolinone2 Preservative 0.10 Sodium Laureth Sulfate (30%) Surfactant 8.00
Fragrance3 Fragrance 0.50 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30%) Surfactant 4.00
Part B Crodateric CAB 30 (Cocoamidopropyl Betaine)1 Surfactant 5.00
Promidium™ LTS (PEG-150 Distearate (and) PPG-2 Rheology modifier 3.00 Versathix (PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) Rheology modifier 4.00
Hydroxyethyl Cocamide)1 PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide (and) Water (Aqua))1
Cromollient SCE (Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate)1 Emollient 2.00
Suppliers: 1. Croda 2. Neolone™ 950, Dow 3. Pineapple Fragrance 111T99, Fragrance and Flavor Specialties
Glycerox 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides)1 Emollient 1.00
Procedure: Combine Part A in main vessel and gently mix until all solids have dissolved
and mixture is uniform. Once uniform, adjust pH to between 5.5 and 6.0. Add Part B and Part B
slowly mix until solids have dissolved and Part B has become uniform and evenly distributed Phytessence™ Peach Flower (Glycerin (and) Water (Aqua) Botanical 1.00
throughout Part A. Check pH and adjust if necessary. (and) Prunus Persica (Peach) Flower Extract)2
NEOLONE is a trademark of the Dow Chemical Company Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)3 Preservative 0.50
Citric Acid 50% solution Neutraliser To pH 6.0 - 6.5

Suppliers: 1. Croda 2. Crodarom 3. Schülke Inc.

Procedure: Weigh out water and surfactant into large beaker and mix at low speed and
start heating to 55°C. Once the temperature reaches 55°C, add Versathix and mix until
homogenous. Add Cromollient SCE and Glycerox 767 and continue mixing. Add Part B,
once temperature reach to 40C. Adjust pH to 6.0-6.5
EUXYL is a registered trademark of Schülke & Mayr GmbH
Non-Warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for uses
or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or implied,
is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other
intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks identified herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
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