BASIC

MOTORCYCLE
MAINTENANCE
How to Service and Maintain Your Motorcycle

Peter Karmios
 INTRODUCTION TO BASIC
MOTORCYCLE
SERVICING

elcome to the Bike Smart Motorcycle Maintenance book! This book is

W designed to cover a basic service on most types of motorcycle through a
number of theory sessions and practical exercises aimed at the beginner.

Ever wanted to know how to service your bike?

Not the engine stripping, race tuning, complete rebuild type of knowledge
gained by qualified mechanics; just simple, basic tasks like adjusting a chain,
checking tyre pressures, oil changing and how to carry out basic service checks?
Even if you don’t intend to work on your own bike, having that knowledge will
make you more aware of your bike’s condition, its safety and the likely cost of
paying someone to carry out that servicing. Most motorcycle training schools
cover very basic service checks at CBT level. However, as instructors we are
constantly asked to include additional training so that individuals can look after
their bikes more effectively.

With this need in mind, we have produced this book designed to show riders
how to carry out a basic service on their own machine. Basic servicing is easily
within the ability of most riders and minimal tools are required.
Basic servicing is common to most types of motorcycle, but details like tyre
pressures, types of engine oil and torque settings can vary greatly from one bike
to another. That’s why the course is designed to work with an owner’s service
manual, which will provide specific information for the bike being worked on.
This book is intended to guide you through a basic service on your own
machine, and how much you choose to carry out is entirely up to you. But, above
all, enjoy the course – getting your hands dirty while saving money and looking
after your bike can be great fun!
Peter Karmios,
Author.
 The “ BOLTS ” Motorcycle Maintenance Checks

his book is based on a well known acronym, which itemizes the checks that
T should be regularly carried out on any motorcycle.

These checks can be conducted as a quick check over your machine each
morning before dashing off to work, or as a thorough examination of your bike
as part of a basic service.
Use the checklist methodically. Start at the front of your machine,
with the bike on its centre stand, if it has one, and on a flat, level
surface as this will make the checking of fluid levels easier.

Begin with the front wheel and check each

item on the “BOLTS” list as you work back
along your bike. Take time to inspect your bike thoroughly
whenever possible and make a note of any problems.
 “ BOLTS ” Motorcycle Maintenance Checks

If your tyre pressures are slowly dropping between checks, or that

fork seal leak is getting worse, or the tail light’s not working - then
now’s the time to do something about it. The problem will only get
worse – and the cost of repair greater!

Cleaning your bike regularly will help to prevent corrosion and

make it easier to spot any problems at an early stage. Don’t forget
to lubricate your drive chain after washing… And a clean bike
makes servicing less messy!
Finally, make sure that there are no loose items such as number
plate screws or fasteners. Mirrors, lights & reflectors should be
clean and unbroken. A regular “BOLTS” check of your bike will
help to keep it in top condition!
 The “BOLTS” Checklist

This section will look at the "BOLTS" checklist and how to use it as
a quick, start of day safety check and also how to use it for more in
depth periodic maintenance. Always refer to your owner's or
workshop manual for your motorcycles's specific fluid levels, tyre
pressures, torque settings etc.

Brakes

Oils & Fluids

Lights & Electrics

Tyres & Wheels

Steering

Suspension

Sprockets, Chain, Shaft Drive

Stands

The “BOLTS” Checklist

Brakes
Check for correct adjustment. Ensure cables run smoothly.

Check cables for fraying and hoses for cracks and splits.

Check the brake wear indicators.

Brake reservoir levels should be above the minimum mark.

Brake reservoir levels should be above the minimum mark.

Oils & Fluids

Check oil level dipstick or sight glass while machine is on level ground.

Also battery, coolant and hydraulic reservoirs (clutch).

Lights & Electrics

Check all electrics: lights, horn & emergency cut out/kill switch.

Check security of plug lead(s) if accessable .

Tyres & Wheels

The UK Legal requirement for motorcycles is 1mm over ¾ of width for entire
circumference. For mopeds the requirement is merely "visible" tread.

Spin wheels for trueness & soundness of spokes.

Check tyres for cuts & bulges.

Check for play in wheel bearings and forks.

Check for correct tyre pressures.

Steering
Check head bearings for free movement, worn bearings (feels notchy) & too
much slack.

Swing handlebars from full left to full right, checking for any stretching or
pinching of wires and cables. Look for any obstructions to full and free
movement of the handlebars.
Suspension
Compress front forks & look for oil seal leaks.

Check rear suspension movement & pivot wear.

Sprockets & Chain

These are prone to wear and require regular inspection, adjustment and
lubrication. It is important to maintain correct tension.

Check for correct adjustment – adjust if necessary.

Check for excessive wear on chain and sprockets.

Lubricate with a suitable chain lubricant.

Stands
Side and main stands need to be secure & lubricated so that they swing up and
out of the way. Do not sit on the bike while it is on the stand as this can place
unnecessary strain & wear on the stand.

Finally, make sure that there are no loose items such as the number
plate or fasteners. Mirrors, lights & reflectors should be clean and
unbroken.

Keeping the whole bike clean on a regular basis will make it easier
to spot any problems at an early stage.

Your Owner’s Manual

This book is designed to work with an owner’s manual or workshop manual that
contains all the specific data to carry out a service on your motorcycle.
Even a basic service requires a degree of knowledge and information that may
be unique to your bike. It is surprising how much variation there is in, say, tyre
pressures from one bike to the next. Oil grades and volumes vary greatly, as does
the correct chain tension from a sports bike to a trials bike. Knowing your own
machine is hugely important to looking after it effectively. You may find it
useful to write down the most common bits of information and keep it on your
bike for reference.
If you do not have a service manual, the internet has become a vast store of
information that covers almost everything you are likely to need. It’s not as good
as having a book in your hands when you need it, but the information is out there
– you just need to look for it!
Most owner’s handbooks or manuals supplied by the manufacturer will contain a
maintenance schedule that sets out what to do at each service interval. These
intervals are broken down by mileage, and sometimes time. For example, every
4000 miles or 6 months, check… This is to ensure that routine maintenance is
carried out, like inspecting your brakes, lubricating pivot points, adjusting cables
etc., even if you don’t use your bike very much. Even standing still, your bike
will corrode and deteriorate without a little TLC!
Use the “BOLTS” checklist alongside the maintenance schedule in your owner’s
handbook. By using the two together, and carrying out the basic service items
yourself, major service intervals will be cheaper and easier for a qualified
mechanic to perform – saving you time and money!
A typical maintenance schedule will be like the one below;
CODE: ​
I = Inspect and clean, adjust, lubricate or replace.
C = Clean
R = Replace
A = Adjust
L = Lubricate

ODOMETER READING
X1000mi 0.6 4 8 12 16 20 24
MONTHS 6 12 18 24 30 36
Throttle I I I
operation
Air cleaner I I
Spark plug I R I
Valve I
clearance
Engine oil R R R R
Engine oil filter R R R R
Drive chain EVERY 600 miles I, L
Brake pad wear I I I I I I
Radiator I I R
coolant

Refer to the schedule for specific tasks that need to be performed at a certain
mileage, for example; in the schedule above, spark plugs need to be inspected at
8 thousand miles and replaced at 16 thousand miles.
In addition to the mileage checks, certain items need to be inspected every six or
twelve months. If you only use your bike occasionally for relatively short
journeys, the time intervals will be more important than the mileage figures.
Unfortunately, common sense is probably the single most important factor that
cannot be written into the service schedule! Adapt this information to suit your
particular needs. For example, if you clean your bike regularly and keep it in a
warm garage, it’ll need less maintenance than a bike that’s rarely cleaned and
left outdoors in all weathers.
The sections in this book are designed to be completed either in one weekend or
over a series of shorter sessions. The elements cover specific tasks that need to
be carried out in a basic service. Below are the sections, which cover the key
elements of a basic service.

1. Tools, Service Manual and Equipment.

2. Service Lubricants & Fluids

3. Wheels & Tyres,

4. Brakes (drum & disc),

5. Cables & Linkages

6. Chain, Shaft & Belt Drive

7. Steering, Frame & Suspension

8. Engine Oil, Filter & Engine Coolant

9. Ignition & Spark Plugs

10. Fuses & Electrics

 SECTION 1
TOOLS, SERVICE MANUAL & EQUIPMENT
Having the right tools to hand before doing anything to your bike will make the
job much easier. Alongside the right tools, you will also need a workshop or
service manual which is specific to your machine for accurate information on the
intended task. Any service items that you intend to replace should also be
checked before committing spanners to bike – those shiny new brake pads or oil
filter might be for a different machine, so check before dismantling your bike! A
basic service on most modern machines requires only a basic tool kit, with
perhaps one or two special tools which may be specific to your bike.

Socket set – a set of 3/8th inch drive sockets in a box set from 8 to 19
millimetres will cover most jobs. You may require larger sockets for wheel nuts,
which can be bought separately.

Note that early British and most American bikes use Imperial measurements, so
you will need tools marked in inches. A spanner and socket set in the 7/16th to
you will need tools marked in inches. A spanner and socket set in the 7/16th to
3/4 inch range will be fine for most jobs.

Spanners – a set of metric spanners ranging from 8 to 19 millimetres will cover

most nuts and bolts on modern bikes. Many suppliers now offer combination
spanner and socket sets in a handy case

Torque wrench – A common problem with home DIY is stripped threads or

snapped bolts due to over-tightening. A 3/8th inch drive torque wrench in the 8 -
60 Nm or 6 - 45 lb.ft. range is highly recommended for applying the correct
force when tightening fasteners.
For heavier tasks, like tightening the rear wheel nut, a 3/4 inch torque wrench
and suitable socket may be needed.

Screwdrivers – a basic selection of cross head and flat head screwdrivers in

different sizes and lengths will be required.
For Japanese bikes a set of JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) crosshead
screwdrivers should be used to avoid damage to screw heads.

Special Tools - An oil filter wrench or socket will make oil changes much
easier. An increasing number of bikes now use a variety of fasteners, like allen
bolts, Torx fasteners and spline drive bolts. Check to see if your bike uses any of
these fasteners and buy the necessary tools.
Stands - If your bike only has a side stand, you may need to borrow or buy a
paddock stand to keep the bike upright for ease of servicing. Some bikes have
bobbins fitted to the rear swingarm to locate the stand. Ensure you get the right
stand for your bike and that it is fitted securely when carrying out maintenance
work.

Conclusion : Always ensure you have the right tools and equipment to carry out
and finish the intended work before starting!
 SECTION 2
SERVICE FLUIDS & LUBRICANTS
Using the right fluids and lubricants can make a huge difference to the
performance and reliability of your machine. There are many products on the
market, each offering their own unique properties but they generally fall into the
following categories;

Brake & Clutch Fluid - is formulated to withstand the high temperatures and
pressures found in the braking system. Be careful with topping up or
replacement as this fluid is corrosive and will damage paint and laquered
surfaces. Make sure you use the correct fluid. For example, on your brake fluid
reservoir cap it may be marked "DOT 4".

Coolant - Liquid cooled engines have a network of connected spaces around

their core filled with coolant. This contains a mix of chemicals, which have three
important functions. The primary function is to carry away heat from the
engine's core to a radiator where the temperature can be regulated to prevent
overheating. Also, the coolant acts as an antifreeze because its freezing point is
well below our winter temperatures. There are anti corrosion properties in
coolant, so it helps to prevent corrosion and protect the cooling system's moving
parts. Coolant needs to be replaced at regular intervals because the chemical mix
deteriorates over time and will not protect your engine properly.

Engine Oil - performs several key functions such as cooling, cleaning and
protection. As oil circulates around an engine, it forms a protective layer
between all the moving parts, takes heat away from the engine's core and carries
any impurities like carbon deposits and metal filings away to the filter. Many 4
stroke bikes use the same oil for the engine, clutch and gearbox. This means that
a suitable oil must be used to prevent clutch slippage, so only use oil that meets
the JASO motorcycle industry standard.
Gearbox & Driveshaft oil - works in the same way as engine oil, but is
generally thicker to deal with the heavier engineering of gearboxes and shaft
drives. Do not use in gearboxes that share oil with the clutch.

Suspension Fluid - provides damping by slowing the rate at which your

suspension travels up and down over bumps. This oil gets thinner with age and
use, reducing its ability to provide damping. It comes in different viscosities
(thickness), such as 5, 10 or 15 weight. Check for the correct fluid for your
machine.

Penetrating Oil - This comes in handy spray cans or applicator bottles. It's a
very thin oil which can soak through dirt and rust, has cleaning and light
lubrication properties and is useful for tackling corroded fasteners such as rusty
nuts and bolts.

Anti Corrosion - These products work by forming a protective barrier between

your bike's exposed surfaces and corrosion enhancing nasties like road salt, rain,
grit, etc. Care should be taken not to apply these products to tyres, brake discs
and pads.

Grease - has a number of different formulations and uses on a bike. Copper

grease is mostly used on high temperature components, such as brake calipers
and exhaust bolts to prevent corrosion and seizure. White grease can be used on
pivots and cables found in places like foot pegs, brake and clutch levers.
Lithium grease is for general purpose use like wheel bearings, swing arms and
grease nipples.

Chain Lube - comes in a variety of types and applications. These are some of
the most common types. Dry lube is relatively clean and sprays on easily. Wax
is more durable, but harder to apply. Oil is easy to apply but flings off more
easily and attracts dirt, making it more messy. Choose the type most appropriate
to your needs.

Thread Lock - this fluid is applied to the threads of nuts and bolts that are prone
to working loose through vibration. Unlike adhesives, thread lock allows for
components to be easily disassembled when required.

Conclusion : Understand the various products that are required for basic
servicing and choose the right fluids for your machine.
 SECTION 3
TYRES & WHEELS
Tyres - especially motorcycle tyres, are vital to our safety. Correctly maintained
tyres make a huge difference to the safe handling and performance of the
machine. Poorly maintained tyres will wear out faster and affect the bike’s road
holding.
All tyres have their size marked on the side wall. Check these marks with your
service manual to ensure that the right tyres are fitted. Most modern tyres are of
radial construction and display the following numbers to denote size, as in this
illustration.

Tread - on a tyre serves three functions. Primarily, it’s there to cut through
surface water and allow the tyre to grip the road. Therefore, the newer the tyre,
the more tread it’ll have and the more effective it will be. It also provides a
useful guide to remaining life; as the tyre wears down the tread pattern will show
uneven wear more easily. The legal minimum limit for a motorcycle tyre in the
UK is; 1 millimetre, across 75% of the tread, across the whole tread .

However, a tyre is not only illegal when the tread depth is less than 1 millimetre.
Visible damage to the side wall, such as deep cuts and bulges are also illegal –
and dangerous! Check the entire tread area for damage by rotating the wheel
slowly and pick out any bits of flint or stone chips, and especially look for nails!
Tread Wear Indicators (TWI) - become visible when the tyre nears the end of
its life to show that the tyre needs to be replaced. Manufacturers mould the TWIs
into the tread pattern and mark them with a symbol, like “TWI”, an arrow, or a
little Michelin man!

Finally, tread patterns sell tyres! Manufacturers spend huge amounts of time and
money designing patterns that appeal to buyers – sometimes; it really is all about
the looks!
Air pressure - is very important to the safety and performance of your tyres.
Check your owner’s manual for the correct tyre pressures for your machine.
Under inflation - will make a tyre soft and cause it to run on its outside edges.
This will increase the rate of wear and allow the tyre to flex more when
cornering, making the handling sluggish and less precise.
Over inflation - will make the tyre harder and wear out the centre section of the
tyre more quickly. There will be less contact with the road and less flexibility in
the tyre, so the handling will feel lighter, causing the tyre to lose grip more
easily.

WHEELS
Motorcycle wheels are usually cast or spoked. Here are a few points to bear in
mind when checking;

Cast wheels - are made of a light alloy, tend to be stronger and lighter than
spoked wheels and are usually fitted with tubeless tyres. Look for any damage to
the rim caused by hitting kerbs or pot holes.

Cast wheels should be checked for general condition, damage to the rim and
cracking on the arms. Also check the condition of the air valve. This is usually a
rubber valve with a mushroom base that can be damaged by excessive bending
or stretching. Over time the rubber will perish and fine cracks will appear at the
base. if you find such damage, replace the valves immediately.

S poked wheels - are more flexible than cast wheels but require more
maintenance. As well as checking for damage or corrosion to the rim, check
each of the spokes for the correct tension. All the spokes should make a
consistent pinging sound when tapped lightly with a metal object. Any dull notes
indicate a loose or broken spoke, which will need to be adjusted or replaced.
Most spoked wheels are not airtight, so a tube needs to be fitted. Check the
valve’s condition and security.

Wheel bearings - should be checked for excessive play by lifting the front
wheel off the ground and moved sideways between the fork legs. There should
not be any noticeable sideways movement.

Next, spin the wheel by hand to check for smooth running, looking for any
damage to the rim or warping of the brake drum or discs.

CONCLUSION : Look for tyre damage, identify tyre size, tread depth and tyre
pressures on your machine. Check condition of wheel bearings, rims and spokes.
 SECTION 4
BRAKES (disc & drum)
The braking system on a motorcycle works by applying pressure on a metal disc
or drum attached to each wheel. The force is applied using friction linings called
pads (disc brakes) or shoes (drum brakes), which wear out over prolonged use
and will need to be replaced sooner or later. How long it takes to wear out a set
of brake pads or shoes depends on many factors, including your braking habits
and the conditions in which you ride.
Regular checks will allow you to monitor brake wear and decide when to replace
the pads or shoes before they become dangerously low. A common problem
which can occur if brake pads are allowed to wear through to their metal backing
plate is shown in this illustration;

The result is metal on metal contact, loss of braking ability and rapid wearing of
the brake disc. A cheap replacement or the brake pads has now become an
expensive replacement of the brake disc as well!
Front Brake – if you have a disc brake, it will usually be hydraulically operated.
If you have a drum brake fitted, check it in the same way as described for the
rear drum brake. Begin checking from the top; start with the brake lever and
check it is not sticking or damaged, the pivot pin is lubricated and there isn’t
excessive movement.

Next, check the brake fluid level with the bike upright and the bars straight - the
brake fluid level should be above the minimum mark.

Follow the brake hose down to the brake caliper(s), looking for signs of
perishing in the rubber, leaks, chafing or corrosion. Check the caliper(s) for
leaks and their general condition.
Inspect the brake caliper(s) for signs of corrosion and brake fluid leaks. Check
the retaining bolts and any rubber seals.

Finally, check the brake pads for remaining friction material; a torch is often
useful for looking into the caliper. If the pads are getting near their wear limit,
plan for their replacement long before there is any chance of damage to the disc.

Most brake pads have a groove in the centre of the friction material. This acts as
a wear indicator, so when the pads wear down to the bottom of the groove, it's
time to replace them!
Rear Brake – can be either disc or drum. If you have a disc brake fitted, check it
in the same way as the front disc brake.
Drum brakes are less efficient, not self adjusting and generally more difficult to
service than disc brakes. They are usually found only on older bikes or newer,
low budget machines.

Drum brakes work by pressing curved friction linings (shoes) against the inside
of a drum. The whole assembly is enclosed in the hub of the rear wheel, making
inspection more difficult than disc brakes.

Begin by checking the foot brake lever is not damaged, not sticking, is lubricated
and does not have excessive movement. Working back from the lever, check the
pivot points for wear and lubrication. The rear brake light switch is usually
located near the lever. Check its condition also.

Drum brakes are difficult to check for remaining friction material, so the drum
will usually have an indicator with a maximum wear mark. With the brake pedal
applied, check the maximum wear mark's position. If it moves most of the way
towards the maximum wear limit, it's time to replace the brake shoes!
Drum brakes - usually have a mechanical linkage between the lever and the
friction linings, which is not self adjusting. As the brake wears, the lever has
further to travel and the foot brake becomes less effective. Mechanically linked
brakes should be adjusted regularly.

If the brake pedal has excessive movement, adjust using the nut on the end of the
linkage as shown here. The nut has a curved inside edge, so it will lock in place
against the spring pressure every half turn.

CONCLUSION : Check the front and rear brakes on your machine, adjust and
lubricate mechanical linkages and replace brake pads if required.
 SECTION 5
CABLES & LINKAGES
Cables and mechanical linkages on a bike are relatively simple devices and
given regular maintenance will give years of trouble free service.
Cables – are used for applying a pulling force from a lever to wherever that
force is needed. For example the throttle on your handlebar needs to open and
close the carburetor or fuel injection system as required.

Cables are made of a twisted wire inner core, with fixed ends or nipples. The
outer sleeve has some form of adjustment and allows the cable to be routed to
where the pulling force is needed.
Twist the throttle handgrip, or pull the clutch lever and that energy is converted
to a pulling motion through a cable. Over time, that movement will cause wear
between the inner wire cable and its outer casing. Add stretching, corrosion due
to lack of lubrication and the cable will eventually break. Tell tale signs, such as
stiffness or notchy feel to the cable’s movement will give early warning of
problems to come.
Check the visible parts of the cable ends. Broken strands and rusted wires or lack
of further adjustment signal time to replace the cable!
Follow the length of the cable, checking for damage caused by rubbing or
pinching. Any kinks will cause a weak point and may be caused by incorrect
routing.

Pull back the protective rubber sleeve and check the condition of the wire inner
cable. Look for corrosion and broken strands of wire.
Linkages – work in a similar way to cables, but often allow for a pushing
motion also, such as the gear lever linkage on many bikes.
Linkages rely on pivots and joints to work effectively, transmitting movement
from a lever to where it’s needed.

Check the pivots and joints for corrosion and wear. Adjust if required and
lubricate.

With routine inspection for free movement and lubrication of pivots and joints,
linkages should give years of trouble free service.

CONCLUSION : Check cables and linkages; lubricate pivots and carry out
adjustments under supervision if necessary.
 SECTION 6
CHAIN, SHAFT & BELT DRIVE
Chain Drive - Motorcycles have used this method throughout most of their
history because it is a relatively cheap and simple way of delivering power from
the engine to the back wheel. It efficiently transmits the engine’s turning force
directly to the rear wheel with little loss of energy and is easy to replace when it
wears out. The disadvantage of chain drive is that it is messy, requires regular
lubrication and adjustment - and wears out!

Check for correct adjustment in your owner's manual. When adjusting, use the
marks indicated, making sure the alignment is the same on both sides.
When lubricating the chain, apply from the inside of the chain, so that it works
its way out through the links. The best time to lube the chain is after a ride, when
the chain is warm as this will help the lube to penetrate into the links more
effectively.
Chains and sprockets will wear out with use and will need replacing. Check your
chain and sprockets for wear by looking at the shape of the sprocket teeth and
the condition of the chain. Dog toothed sprockets and seized, corroded or twisted
links are not healthy signs!The picture above shows a badly worn sprocket, with
the teeth curved in a “dog tooth” pattern.

This picture shows a

badly worn sprocket,
with the teeth curved
in a “dog tooth”
pattern. The
sprockect has worn
beyond safe limits
and was causing the
chain to slip.

The picture below shows a new sprocket, with teeth that are a uniform shape The
picture below shows a new sprocket, with teeth that are a uniform shape that will
fit preisely with a new chain. The numbers on the sprocket show the correct size
of the replacement sprocket and the number of teeth.
Measure chain movement at the middle of the lower section by lifting up and
down. Rotate the rear wheel and measure several times, checking for any tight
spots caused by uneven chain and sprocket wear. Adjust chain for the correct
tension at the tightest point.
Shaft Drive - Mostly found on larger, touring machines where additional weight
and loss of power (compared to chain drive) are less important to the machine’s
performance. The advantage of shaft drive is that it is cleaner, requires no
adjustment and lasts much longer than chain or belt drives. Routine maintenance
is simply a matter of checking the condition of the rubber gaiters that protect the
drive shaft joints and checking the gear oil level in the drive hub.
The Disadvantages of shaft drive are that it is an expensive option for
manufacturers, it adds considerable weight to the machine and it loses a
significant amount of energy in its drive train from the engine to the rear wheel.
If the shaft drive assembly fails, it can also mean a very expensive visit to a
specialist who will be equipped and trained to work on your particular bike.

Shaft drive units have an outer casing with flexible joints to allow movement of
the rear suspension. Check the rubber gaiters for splits or cracks which will
allow dirt and water to damage the moving parts.

Routine maintenance is very easy with Shaft drives. The only service
requirement is to check the oil level in the rear hub. This hub houses a set of
gears, which are bathed in gear oil that turn the driving force through 90 degrees
from the drive shaft to the rear wheel.
The rear hub contains a set of gears which are immersed in gear oil. Look for
any leaks around the hub and check the oil level through the inspection plug
(No. 1).

The
shaft
drive
unit

usually forms part of the rear suspension and relies on pivots and links to control
its movement. Check theses pivots and links for corrosion and general condition.

Belt Drive - The earliest form of drive on motorcycles was a belt made of linked
leather pads. They soon gave way to more efficient chain and shaft drive
systems, but they are making a comeback. Belts are becoming more popular as
technology improves their performance and useful life. The advantage of belt
drive is that it is cleaner – requires no lubricating, causes less vibration, doesn’t
need adjusting and lasts longer than chain drives. Disadvantages are that they are
more expensive and only suited to certain types of bike.

CONCLUSION : Check your owner’s manual for the correct chain tension,
adjust and lubricate as required. With shaft drives, check the condition of rubber
gaiters and gear oil level.
 SECTION 7
FRAME & SUSPENSION
The bearings on which the steering and suspension attach to the frame should be
checked during routine maintenance. Additionally, check the frame for general
condition and corrosion. Apply an anti corrosion agent to protect the frame in all
the inaccessible places that don’t get cleaned too often.

Steering head bearings – need to be correctly adjusted to prevent excessive

play. Loose head bearings will wear more quickly and affect the safe handling of
the machine.

Check the head bearings by supporting the bike with the front wheel off the
ground. Try to pull the front forks back and forwards. There should be no
noticeable movement in the head bearings.

If the head bearings are loose, refer to your owner's manual for the correct
adjustment procedure before adjusting the castellated nut above the upper
bearing assembly. While adjusting, turn the steering from full left to full right,
checking that you have full and free movement, without any tight spots where
the bearings have worn unevenly.

Frame & bodywork – check the general condition of the frame, paying
attention to engine mounting bolts, foot peg attachments and panels. Check and
lubricate foot peg pivots. Check and lubricate side stand / main stand pivots.
The purpose of suspension on a motorcycle is to help the bike’s tyres maintain
contact with the road under a wide range of conditions. When a wheel hits a
bump or pothole at speed, it breaks contact with the road, losing grip and de-
stabilizing the bike. How quickly the tyre regains grip depends on the suspension
setup and how well it’s working. Basic servicing checks help to identify
problems at an early stage and allow repairs to be scheduled before the problems
become serious.

Front Forks – check the condition of the fork seals and dust caps. An early sign
of fork seal failure is a black line of oil and dirt on the fork leg above the seal.
This is caused by suspension fluid leaking past the fork seal. Once a fork seal
begins to leak, it will only get worse – and the bike will fail its MOT!
 Check the
condition of the
fork seals and
dust caps.
Replace the
seals if they
appear to be
leaking. Also,
check the
condition of the
fork legs,
looking for pitting or corrosion on the chrome where it slides through the seals.

Next, check the front suspension by rolling the bike forwards and applying the
front brake. The forks should compress smoothly and progressively with a
degree of resistance. The rate at which the forks return to their resting position
should also be checked. Over time, the fluid in the fork legs will become thinner
and allow the suspension to move more freely, causing the bike to bounce on its
springs. This will make the suspension feel soft and the bike will wallow over
bumps, affecting the steering and road holding.

Rear Suspension – is normally configured with either one or two shock

absorbers to control the movement of the rear wheel. The basic maintenance
checks are similar for both systems.
As with the front suspension, check for smooth, progressive movement by
applying weight to the back of the bike. The back end should move freely, with a
clear damping action from the suspension. Shock absorbers become soft and lose
their damping ability over time. If the suspension feels very bouncy and settles
back to its resting position with no resistance, the shock absorber(s) may be due
for replacement.
Begin the inspection by checking the general condition of the shock absorber
unit, looking for signs of corrosion on the springs, body and mounting bolts.
Check for fluid leaks. Unlike the front forks, these units can only be repaired by
specially equipped workshops, so unless they are expensive, high performance
units, they are usually replaced with new items. Check also the rubber mountings
on the top and bottom bolts for perishing. Rear suspension that uses only a single
unit, or monoshock, usually has a linkage arrangement at its base that attaches to
the swinging arm. This linkage is very low on the bike and exposed to road salt
and dirt so it can corrode and seize up. Take a close look at this linkage for signs
of damage and lubricate as required.

Twin shock absorbers. Check for fluid leaks, general condition and perishing of
the mounting rubber bushes.
Monoshock units. Like the twin shock unit, look for fluid leaks, corrosion and

general condition. Also check the condition of the lower linkages and rubber
bushes for wear, corrosion and seizing.

CONCLUSION : Check the front and rear suspension. Inspect fork seals,
stanchions and head bearings. Check the rear suspension for correct load
settings, corrosion and leaks.
 SECTION 8
ENGINE OIL, FILTER & ENGINE COOLANT
Engine Oil – is crucial to the performance and reliability of your bike. The
condition of your oil can also give you important information about the health of
your engine. With use, engine oil breaks down and becomes thinner (viscosity).
It changes colour from a dark amber to almost black as it absorbs carbon
deposits and worn clutch material. Healthy oil will have a smooth texture and a
similar smell to fresh oil. A gritty texture, with an acrid, burnt smell will indicate
clutch problems. Bright flecks of metal in the oil would suggest damage to
bearings, gears or metal surfaces, so check the condition of your oil for early
warning signs of engine wear.
Engine oil performs three main functions ;

1. Protection . All moving parts in the engine are protected by a

layer of oil, which prevents metal parts rubbing and wearing
out.
2. Cleaning . As the oil circulates around the engine, it collects
carbon deposits; waste matter from the clutch and any metal
particles caused by abrasion and passes them through a filter.
3. Cooling . Very high temperatures build up inside the engine’s
core, which the oil carries to the cooler parts of the engine, or to
an oil cooler to dissipate on some bikes.

Viscosity – this is a term used to describe the thickness of oil. It is expressed in

“GRADES” (numbers and letters), such as 10W40, which is a multigrade oil as
it has more than one number. The numbers relate to the oil’s thickness at
different temperatures. Therefore, the “10” will be thinner than a “15” at low
temperatures, which will help with starting a cold engine because of the lower
drag. The “40” will be thicker than a “30”, so this will give greater protection at
higher operating temperatures. The “W” stands for “WINTER”, so the numbers
relate to the oil’s performance at low temperatures. Check your owner’s manual
for the correct oil for your machine and consider the effects of changing oil
viscosity.

Blend – oil comes in different formulations for different types of engine. Refer
to your owner’s manual for the correct formulation for your machine.
1. Mineral . The first type of engine oil, refined from petroleum based
oil it is mostly used in older, lower performance engines.
2. Semi Synthetic . This is a blend of natural oil and man-made
lubricants. It has a wider operating temperature and offers greater
protection than mineral oil.
3. Fully Synthetic . This is a chemical formulation of lubricants,
cleaning agents and polymers designed to improve oil performance
over a wide range of temperatures and conditions

When replacing the oil in your bike, check that you have the correct grade and
blend, such as mineral, semi synthetic or fully synthetic.

Oil Filter – This is where the impurities collected by the oil are trapped so they
cannot cause damage to the moving parts of the engine. Over several thousand
miles of use, the filter becomes clogged with sludge and engine waste, to the
point where it cannot continue to do its job. Therefore regular oil and filter
changes are very important to the good health of your engine. Oil filters come in
a variety of types and designs, so check your manual for the correct type for your
machine. An increasingly popular design is the external, or cartridge type. This
is fitted outside the engine, in a metal case which can easily be replaced.

Special tools can be bought to make filter removal and replacement easier,
especially when tightening to the recommended torque setting.

When replacing the filter, apply a thin film of fresh engine oil to the rubber seal
and screw back on carefully by hand to avoid damaging the thread. If it does not
screw on easily, check you have the right filter.

Refer to your owner's manual for the location of the oil drain plug and its torque
setting for tightening. The drain plug's washer should be replaced with a new one
before re-fitting.

When filling with fresh engine oil, check with your owner’s manual for the
correct grade, blend and quantity of oil needed. For example, your manual might
say you need 3.4 litres of SAE 10W40 semi synthetic oil. Check also the figures
given for replacing the oil with and without replacing the filter.

Fill the engine slowly to avoid overspill. Take note of how much oil is going in
to avoid over filling. If a new filter has been fitted, a false reading will be given
in the sight glass or dip stick. Run the engine for one or two minutes, then check
the oil level again and top up as required.

Fill to the correct level on the dip stick or sight glass. Run the engine for one or
two minutes then check again, topping up as required.
Engine Coolant – is used in liquid cooled engines and performs three main
functions;

1. Temperature control . The liquid carries heat from the engine’s

core to a radiator where excess heat is dissipated.
2. Anti corrosion . Additives in the liquid help to protect the
engine’s interior from corroding.
3. Antifreeze . Other chemicals in the coolant prevent damage
from freezing at very low temperatures in winter.

If your engine is liquid cooled, locate and check the coolant level, and if it’s low,
top up with the correct concentration of coolant as described in your owner’s
manual.

CONCLUSION : Carry out an oil and filter change on your own bike. Locate
and check the coolant level on your machine and top up if necessary.
 SECTION 9
IGNITION & SPARK PLUG
Internal combustion engines rely on three things for them to work – fuel,
compression and something to ignite the compressed gas.
Fuel, aside from checking that you have some, and compression are issues
beyond the scope of basic servicing. Ignition systems on most modern machines
are very reliable and have no user serviceable parts, except the spark plug(s).
Even these items can have a useful life of up to 20,000 miles, so they won’t need
replacing every service.
The Ignition System – delivers a spark to ignite the compressed gas at just the
right moment to get the most energy from the fuel. It does this with position
sensors that know where the moving parts of the engine are. An ECU (Electronic
Control Unit) is a small computer fitted to your bike that works out the right
time to make a spark and sends an electrical pulse to a coil.
This coil steps up the voltage to around 20 to 30 thousand volts and passes it
along a high tension lead to the spark plug via a cap. The high voltage ignites the
compressed gas by jumping across a gap in the spark plug.
Servicing, at a basic level is confined to checking the condition of the
component parts of the ignition system, such as the coil(s) and HT lead(s). Look
for signs of perishing on the leads, corrosion on the low voltage connections and
condition of the plug cap(s). Use an anti corrosion spray to protect the exposed
parts.

Example of HT coil, HT lead and spark plug cap. Note the green and black
connectors, which should be corrosion free and in good condition.
Spark Plugs – come in many different shapes and sizes, and the codes found on
them identify their correct use. Check your owner’s manual for the correct plug
for your bike, its gap size and torque setting for re-fitting. Use a gap tool or
feeler guage to to set the correct gap.

Spark Plug Gap – when checking the gap size on the spark plug, take care not
to damage the electrode, which is the centre pin that the high voltage passes
through before it jumps the gap to earth on the spark plug body. A Gap
measuring tool is best for this as it is less likely to cause damage than a feeler
gauge.

Before re-fitting the spark plug, check the condition of the compression washer
fitted to the plug. Screw the plug back in by hand to avoid the danger of cross
threading it into the cylinder head. Finish tightening the spark plug with a torque
wrench to avoid over tightening.

The appearance of the firing-end of a used spark plug graphically reflects the
condition of an engine, the suitability of the spark plug heat range, and whether
or not the fuelling and ignition systems are correctly set.

Wet or
dry
fouling.
If the

insulation resistance between the centre electrode and the shell drops to 0, a
spark cannot occur and the firing end is fouled by either wet or dry carbon
deposits.
Running too lean . A pale, dusty appearance indicates a weak fuel mix - too
much air or not enough petrol. May also cause overheating.

Running
too rich .
Dry black
carbon
deposits
indicate a
high fuel
/ air ratio,
such as
running
with the
choke on.

Melting .
Caused by
overheating.
Mostly the
electrode
surface is
deformed and
uneven. The
melting point
of nickel alloy is 1200 to 1300 degrees celcius.

Overheating . The insulator tip is glazed or glossy. Pale coloured ash deposits
 have
blistered on
the
insulator's
tip.

Normal
condition. If
the firing end
is brown or
light grey,
the condition
can be
judged to be
good and the
spark plug is
functioning correctly.

Spark plug images courtesy of NGK UK.

CONCLUSION : Check through the ignition system and check spark plug(s)
where accessible for correct type, gap size and condition.
 SECTION 10
FUSES & ELECTRICS
The Electrical System – on a motorcycle has to cope with extremes of weather,
such as mud, rain, road salt, high and low temperatures. This exposure can lead
to corrosion where connections are made, at switches that need to remain
weatherproof and cause abrasion where the wiring passes through the frame. All
things considered, the electrical system has a hard life! Cleaning your bike
regularly will help to keep the wiring clean and free of accumulated layers of
muck that encourages corrosion and allow close inspection during cleaning.
There are two common problems that can occur in the wiring;
Broken circuits or earthing faults - can be caused by corrosion eating
into connections and preventing electricity passing through, or rotting
wires to the point where they break away completely. Common signs of
this corrosion are green, furry deposits on connectors, exposed wiring
and battery terminals.
Combat this problem by inspecting the wiring system where possible,
cleaning the connections with a non conductive brush, like an old
toothbrush, and protecting them with an anti corrosion agent.
Short circuits - are caused by wiring pinching or rubbing against the
frame to the point where the insulating layer is worn through and a live
wire is exposed. When this exposed live wire presses against the frame,
the battery will try to discharge through this path of lesser resistance
with potentially disastrous results.

Examine the wiring where it passes over or through the frame and
ensure that it is not pinching or stretching. Check the condition of the
wiring insulation and apply insulating tape to damaged areas and use
cable ties to tidy loose wiring.
Fuses – are built into the wiring system to protect against short circuits. If a live
wire earths out, the fuse will blow first because it is designed to have a lower
ability to carry load than the circuit it protects. That is why fuses have different
“amp” ratings – the higher the number, the more load is required for it to blow.
Therefore, do not replace a blown fuse with one of a higher rating as it may not
protect the circuit from damage. If a fuse blows, try to identify why it failed
before replacing it.

There are two types of fuse commonly found on motorcycles. The older inline
fuse has a glass tube with amp rating clearly visible. Moulded fuses are colour
coded and have the amp rating stamped on their top.

Your fuse box, or holder, should have space for spare fuses. Check that spare
fuses are installed and that you have one of each amp rating used – And check
that they aren’t old blown ones!
When checking the condition of fuses, look at the metal contacts, they should be
clean and free from dirt and corrosion. The metal filament that runs between the
contacts must also be in good condition and unbroken.

Light Bulbs – also have a hard life on motorcycles and tend to blow at the most
inconvenient times! Keep a spare set of bulbs on the bike, so should a bulb blow
it’ll only be a minor inconvenience. Likely causes of bulb failure, apart from old
age, are vibration, corrosion or impact damage. Check light fittings for security,
a loose headlamp or indicator will blow bulbs more frequently. Check the bulb
holders for corrosion, clean and protect them with an anti corrosion agent that’s
suitable for electrical connections.
Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct types of bulb used on your bike. A
mix of halogen bulbs for headlights and tungsten bulbs for stop / tail and
indicators is normal. Virtually all bikes now have 12 volt systems, but the
wattage varies depending on the bulb’s function. Check the wattage for each of
the different bulbs used on your bike.

A selection of common motorcycle bulbs.

Top - halogen headlamp
Left - tungsten headlamp
Middle - instrument bulbs.
Right - indicator bulb.
Bulbs have their voltage (i.e. 12V) and wattage (i.e. 35W) either stamped on the
metal base or printed on the glass. When replacing bulbs, check for the correct
voltage and wattage. Also, check for the correct fitting. Some bulbs have
unevenly shaped pins, so they will only fit one way into the holder. This is
usually the case with stop / tail bulbs, so check the pins before trying to fit the
bulb.
Try to avoid touching the bulb’s glass with your fingers – especially halogen
bulbs as their high operating temperatures will cause the sweat from your fingers
to damage the glass. Keep the protective tube over the bulb until it is fitted into
its holder, then remove before completing the assembly.
Battery – motorcycle batteries are low maintenance, or increasingly
maintenance free and permanently sealed. The traditional lead acid battery
should be checked for correct levels of electrolyte.
If the battery needs topping up, only use distilled water and take care not to
overfill.
Check the battery terminals for the condition of the leads and coat with an anti
corrosion product like copper grease. Check also the battery retaining strap or
bracket to ensure that the battery is firmly held in place.

Sealed Batteries are maintenance free, but lead / acid batteries need to be topped
up with distilled water if they run low. Check the fluid level against the upper
and lower marks and top up if required.
Ancillaries – such as horn, heated grips and electric starter should be checked
for general condition and function. One item that is rarely checked is the cooling
fan on liquid cooled bikes. This fan is completely automatic and requires no
maintenance – so it goes completely unnoticed until it fails and allows the
engine to overheat. Check the cooling fan’s general condition and also the sensor
wires attached to the radiator. To check that the fan is working, leave the engine
running until it reaches its working temperature. After several more minutes the
sensor will detect a build up of too much heat in the radiator because the bike
isn’t moving and switch on the fan. If the fan doesn’t come on after 10 to 15
minutes of static running, have the cooling circuit checked by a qualified person
for possible faults.

CONCLUSION : Check and identify circuits that specific fuses protect. Check
switches, wiring and horn. Remove, inspect and clean a light bulb.
 SERVICE DATA
The information required to complete this section should be in your workshop or
owner’s service manual. Please fill in the details below for use as a “quick
reference” guide when working on your machine.

Make: . . . . . . . . . . . . . Model: . . . . . . . . . . . . Year: . . . . . . .

Frame No: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ​ Reg: . . . . . . . . .
Tyre: front ​ . . . . . . / . . . . . . - . . . . . . pressure . . . . . . . .
Tyre: rear ​ . . . . . . / . . . . . . - . . . . . . pressure . . . . . . . . .

Engine: Oil type . . . . . w . . . . . ​ capacity . . . . . . litres

Spark plug type . . . . . . . ​ gap . . . . . .

Torque settings:
Wheel spindle front . . . . . . . . . . . . . ​ rear . . . . . . . . .
Brake caliper front . . . . . . . . . . . . . ​ rear . . . . . . . . .
Spark plug . . . . . Oil filter . . . . . . . . ​ drain plug . . . . . .

SERVICE DATA
Additional motorcycle data

Make: . . . . . . . . . . . . . Model: . . . . . . . . . . . . Year: . . . . . . .

Frame No: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ​ Reg: . . . . . . . . .
Tyre: front ​ . . . . . . / . . . . . . - . . . . . . pressure . . . . . . . .
Tyre: rear ​ . . . . . . / . . . . . . - . . . . . . pressure . . . . . . . . .

Engine: Oil type . . . . . w . . . . . ​ capacity . . . . . . litres

Spark plug type . . . . . . . ​ gap . . . . . .

Torque settings:
Wheel spindle front . . . . . . . . . . . . . ​ rear . . . . . . . . .
Brake caliper front . . . . . . . . . . . . . ​ rear . . . . . . . . .
Spark plug . . . . . Oil filter . . . . . . . . ​ drain plug . . . . . .
NOTES

 ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Peter Karmios
The author is a DVSA qualified motorcycle instructor and mechanic with many
years of experience gained in running a successful school and motorcycle
workshop.

The need for this book came about through the curiosity and enthusiasm shown
by his students, who were constantly asking for advice and answers for even the
most basic maintenance questions. Simple things, like checking tyre pressures,
checking fluid levels or adjusting a drive chain are only simple if you know
how!

Peter grew up in an era when bikes were far less reliable and roadside recovery
was not a practical option. Through neccessity, and ratty bikes, he learned the
hard way that preventative maintenance will save money and help to avoid
costly breakdowns.

It is this knowledge and experience that formed the basis of the course which
this book supports. I hope you find it as useful as the hundreds of students who
have completed the course and now happily maintain their bikes.