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 b r e a k fa s t b a s i c s

Cast-Iron Cookware
From sausage to eggs to pancakes, a cast-iron skillet is essential
to making great breakfast food. Here’s how to care for it.

The allure of cooking in cast iron goes beyond its

glossy good looks. Cast iron heats up slowly, but it holds
heat well. Because it’s thick, cast iron heats evenly, with-
out hot spots, which suits it for cooking at high heat.
And well-seasoned cast iron is truly stickproof and easy
to clean.
But cast iron does have a reputation, mostly by those
who haven’t cooked with it, of being finicky. Most prob-
lems arise from not seasoning the pan correctly or from
not maintaining the finish, both of which are actually
easy to do. Here’s a primer on how cast iron works and
how to care for it to ensure years of pleasurable use.

Season it right
New cast-iron pans need to be “seasoned” with oil to
keep foods from sticking. For the initial seasoning, most
manufacturers recommend coating the pan with a bit of
shortening and baking for an hour or more. Here’s how:
Heat the oven to 350°F. Meanwhile, heat your pan on
the stovetop until hot. With a thick wad of paper towels,
spread 1 to 2 teaspoons lard, bacon grease, or solid
vegetable shortening all over the inside and outside of the
pan. Apply a very thin coating of fat—too much grease
and you’ll end up with a gummy residue in your pan.
Put the pan upside down on the center rack of the
oven for 11⁄2 hours. (Slide a baking sheet or piece of alu-
minum foil onto the rack beneath the pan to catch any
drips.) Turn off the heat and let the pan sit in the oven
until cool. The pan won’t be deep black right away but
will develop a dark patina with regular use.

Preserve the patina

Once the pan is seasoned, it’s quite simple to maintain.
Some say that washing cast iron destroys the season-
ing; these folks prefer to just wipe the pan clean, using
coarse salt as an abrasive for cooked-on residue. From
our experience, though, that’s often not enough. So we
wash cast iron with soap and water and immediately
towel it dry. Next, set it on a burner on medium heat
until the pan is hot and completely dry. While the pan
is still hot, use a paper towel to spread a thin coating of
vegetable oil on the interior. With this extra attention,
cast iron stays perfectly seasoned and dry.

Cast-iron cookware
is inexpensive,
cooks well, and will
last for generations.

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 13

FCSIP48_BreakfastBasics_final.indd 13 12/22/10 2:57 PM

 equipment

Juice It Up
The easiest way to get your daily fruit is by drinking it.
Here’s a look at how to make the freshest juice.

The intense flavor of fresh juice, whether squeezed from a

peach for a Bellini or from a lemon for a salad dressing makes
a world of difference. The world of equipment to help you get
at a fruit or vegetable’s juice is complex, ranging from one-
piece manual reamers to involved electric countertop models.
Deciding what to buy depends on how often you need juice,
and how much. If you like to drink freshly squeezed juice
every day, you’ll want a different juicing method than if you
just need a teaspoonful or so for recipes once in a while.
Here’s your guide to the different types of juicers and how
to buy one that suits your needs.

rus
ur
ong
ls
uice. fruit fact
To get the most juice,
soften citrus fruit by
pressing down on it
with your palm and
rolling it back and forth
along a countertop.
This weakens cell walls
and makes it easier to
extract the juice.

14 B r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1

FCSIP48_BreakfastBasics_final.indd 14 12/22/10 3:00 PM

 B R E A K FA S T D R I N K S

sparkling pomegranate
cocktail
One bottle of sparkling wine is enough to make
about six cocktails. You can easily double or
triple this recipe.
Serves 6

1 cup plus 2 Tbs. unsweetened pure

pomegranate juice
(such as Pom brand), chilled
3 Tbs. sugar syrup (recipe below), chilled
1 750ml bottle dry sparkling wine or
Champagne, chilled

In a small pitcher, stir the pomegranate juice

and sugar syrup. Fill each flute about one-third
full with the pomegranate mixture. Top with the
sparkling wine, dividing it evenly among the flutes.
Serve immediately.

sugar syrup
Yields a scant 2ƒ3 cup, enough to make about
15 cocktails

½ cup granulated sugar

½ cup water

In a small saucepan, bring the sugar and water

to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar is
dissolved. Boil for 1 minute. Let cool and then
masala chai refrigerate until ready to use.
If you find typical coffeehouse chai overpowering, try
this version of the well-known Indian spiced tea. Its
judicious use of spices results in a kinder, gentler drink.
Yields 3¾ cups; serves 4

1 Tbs. loose black tea, such as

English Breakfast or Darjeeling
6 green cardamom pods, gently
crushed
5 whole cloves
1 small cinnamon stick (about
1½ inches long)
¼ tsp. black peppercorns
¾ cup whole milk
2 Tbs. granulated sugar; more to taste

In a small saucepan, bring 3½ cups water to a boil.

Remove from the heat and add the tea, cardamom,
cloves, cinnamon, and peppercorns. Let steep uncov-
ered for 4 minutes, stirring once or twice. Pour through
a fine strainer set over a bowl, rinse the saucepan, and
pour the tea back into the pan. Add the milk and sugar
and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add more sugar to
taste. Reheat if necessary over low heat, but don’t boil.
Serve hot.

18 B R E A K FA S T 2 0 1 1

FCSIP48_Drinks_final.indd 18 12/22/10 3:02 PM

 f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 19

FCSIP48_Drinks_final.indd 19 12/22/10 3:03 PM

 Bread Basket
bake ahead
Brioches reheat well, so any that are
not eaten within a day or two can be
reheated in a 325°F oven until the
outside is crisp, about 7 minutes for
small brioches or 15 minutes for large.
Wrap cooled brioches well and store
at room temperature for up to two
days, or freeze for up to five weeks.
Thaw, wrapped, at room temperature.
28 B r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1
FCSIP48_Bread_final.indd 28
authentic brioche
This classic yeast bread, rich
and golden with butter and
eggs, is a breakfast staple.
Yields 16 three-inch brioches
à tête
1 lb. 2 oz. (4 cups)
unbleached all-
purpose flour
1/3 cup granulated sugar
½ oz. (4½ tsp.) active
dry yeast, preferably
Red Star brand
1/2 oz. (2 tsp.) table salt,
plus a pinch for the
egg wash
4 large eggs, at room
temperature, plus 2 large
eggs and 1 large egg yolk
for the egg wash
4 oz. (1/2 cup) whole milk, at
room temperature
8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter,
cut into 16 pieces, slightly
softened; more for the
pans
Make the dough
In a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment, mix the
flour, sugar, yeast, and salt on
low speed until well combined.
Add 4 of the eggs and the milk
and continue mixing on low
speed to combine. As soon
as the dough starts to clump
together, remove the paddle
attachment and attach the
dough hook. (There will still be
unmixed egg and flour in the
bowl.) Mix on medium speed
for 2 minutes. Using a plastic
dough scraper or strong
plastic spatula, scrape the
bowl and hook. Continue to
mix until the dough is firm and
elastic, about 2 minutes more.
The dough may stick to the
hook at this point, but that’s
OK. Scrape the dough off the
hook again.
With the mixer on medium-
low speed, add half of the
butter, a few pieces at a time.
Scrape down the bowl and
dough hook, and remove the
dough hook. Give the dough a
few kneads by hand in the
bowl, repeatedly folding the
dough over on itself, to help
incorporate the butter.
Reattach the dough hook and
add the remaining butter, a few
pieces at a time, mixing on
medium-low speed. Once all
of the butter has been added,
increase the mixer speed to
medium and mix for 4
minutes. Scrape the dough
hook and the sides and
bottom of the bowl. Mix again
until the dough is smooth, soft,
and shiny, about 4 minutes
more. You’ll hear the dough
slap against the sides of the
bowl when it’s ready. (If your
kitchen is warm, the dough
may seem too loose at this
point. Resist the urge to add
extra flour, or the brioche may
be tough.)
Let the dough rise
Use a plastic dough scraper
or a spatula to turn the dough
out onto a clean, very lightly
floured work surface. The
dough will be very moist.
Knead it by hand a few times
and then form it into a ball
by folding the sides into the
middle at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock.
Flip the dough over, place
your palms on either side of
the dough, and tuck it under
itself, turning the dough as
you tuck to form a loose ball
with a smooth top . Transfer
the dough, smooth side up, to a
clean large bowl. Cover loosely
with plastic and let the dough rise
in a warm, draft-free spot until
doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Let the dough rise again
Use the dough scraper or
spatula to turn the dough out,
smooth top down, onto a very
lightly floured work surface.
Again, form it into a ball by
folding the sides into the
middle at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock.
Flip the dough over, place
your palms on either side of
the dough, and tuck it under
itself, turning the dough as you
tuck to form a loose ball with
a smooth top. Transfer the
12/22/10 3:06 PM
 fastest-ever cinnamon buns
Cottage cheese is the secret to these delectable
flaky buns.
Yields 12 buns

Cooking spray

FOR THE DOUGH

3/4 cup cottage cheese (4% milk fat)
1/3 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose
flour; more for rolling
1 Tbs. baking powder
1/2 tsp. table salt
1/4 tsp. baking soda

FOR THE FILLING

3/4 oz. (11/2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted
2/3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar
11/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. ground allspice
1/4 tsp. ground cloves
1 cup (4 oz.) chopped pecans

FOR THE GLAZE

21/2 oz. (scant 2/3 cup) confectioners’ sugar
2 to 3 Tbs. cold whole or low-fat milk
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Heat the oven to 400°F. Grease the sides and bottom of

a 9- or 10-inch springform pan with cooking spray.
Make the dough
In a food processor, combine the cottage cheese, butter­ Bake until golden brown and firm to the touch, 20 to
milk, sugar, melted butter, and vanilla. Process until 28 minutes. Set the pan on a wire rack to cool for
smooth, about 10 seconds. Add the flour, baking powder, 5 minutes. Run a spatula around the inside edge of the
salt, and baking soda and pulse in short bursts just until pan and remove the springform ring. Transfer the rolls to
the dough clumps together (don’t over­process). The a serving plate.
dough will be soft and moist.
Make the glaze
Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and
In a small bowl, mix the confectioners’ sugar, 2 Tbs. milk,
knead it with floured hands 4 or 5 times until smooth. With
and vanilla to make a smooth glaze. It should have a thick
a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12x15-inch rectangle.
but pourable consistency, so add up to 1 Tbs. more milk
Make the filling if necessary. Drizzle the glaze over the rolls. Let stand for
Brush the dough with the melted butter, leaving a 1/2-inch 15 minutes and serve.
border unbuttered around the edges. In a medium bowl,
combine the brown sugar, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves.
Sprinkle the mixture over the buttered area of the dough
and pat gently into the surface. Sprinkle the nuts over the
sugar mixture.
Starting at a long edge, roll up the dough jelly-roll style.
Pinch the seam to seal, and leave the ends open.
With a sharp knife, cut the roll into 12 equal pieces. Set
the pieces, cut side up, in the prepared pan; they should
fill the pan and touch slightly, but don’t worry if there are
small gaps.

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 31

FCSIP48_Bread_final.indd 31 12/22/10 3:07 PM

 Leek and Morel Strata, p. 46

FCSIP48_Crowd_final.indd 36 12/22/10 3:10 PM

 b r u n c h f o r a c r ow d

38 b r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1

FCSIP48_Crowd_final.indd 38 12/22/10 3:10 PM

 hazelnut waffles
The finely ground hazelnuts that go into With a rotary grater, finely grind the
waffle success
• Take center stage
this batter add a nice nuttiness to the hazelnuts. (Or process the hazelnuts
People like to watch waffles being made, so
finished waffles. You can top them with with 2 Tbs. of the flour in a food don’t be shy about cooking the waffles while
maple syrup, but berries and whipped processor until finely ground.) you and your guests have cocktails or coffee.
cream (below) will give them a more In a large bowl, whisk the ground Keep the waffles warm until it’s time to eat by
festive feel. hazelnuts, all-purpose and cake flours, spreading them—don’t stack—directly on a
rack in a 200°F oven.
Yields 61/2 cups batter, enough for baking powder, baking soda, and table
about 12 standard waffles salt until well combined. In another • Be patient
bowl, whisk the buttermilk, oil, eggs, Always let your waffle iron heat up until a few
3 oz. (2/3 cup) hazelnuts, toasted drops of water flicked on the surface sizzle.
and skinned
sugar, and vanilla until well combined.
Don’t be tempted to rush batter onto an iron
With a very open whisk or a rubber
9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached that’s not preheated, or you won’t get
all-purpose flour spatula, lightly stir the wet ingredients maximum browning and flavor.
23/4 oz. (2/3 cup) cake flour into the dry ingredients until just
combined (small lumps in the batter • Stay loose
1 Tbs. baking powder Grease the waffle iron between waffles by
are fine).
1/2 tsp. baking soda applying a light coating of nonstick cooking spray
Let the batter rest for at least or brushing on a light coating of vegetable oil.
3/4 tsp. table salt
20 minutes (and up to 2 hours in
23/4 cups buttermilk
the refrigerator). Cook the waffles • Sneak a peek
1/2 cup vegetable oil according to your waffle iron If the “ready” light or alarm on your waffle maker
4 large eggs corresponds to a level of doneness you like, great.
manufacturer’s instructions. In a
If not, don’t be afraid to lift the lid after a couple
1/3 cup granulated sugar Belgian waffle maker, the waffles have minutes. You can always leave the waffle in longer
11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract a tender interior; in a standard waffle if it’s too pale, or crisp it further in the oven.
Vegetable oil or nonstick maker, they’ll be crisper.
cooking spray for the waffle iron
Warm maple syrup and butter,
for serving

berry compote crème fraîche

Sweet-tart berries are the perfect complement
to the toasted hazelnuts in the waffles.
whipped cream
Rich and tangy crème fraîche adds a
Yields about 3 cups
wonderful zing to whipped cream. This
2 tsp. cornstarch can be made a day ahead.
1 Tbs. fruit brandy or water Yields about 3 cups
2 1 0-oz. packages frozen mixed berries
4 o
 z. (1/2 cup) crème fraîche
(or 4 heaping cups), thawed,
(sold in the specialty cheese
with their juices
section of some supermarkets)
1 cup granulated sugar
3 Tbs. granulated sugar
Finely grated zest from 1 lemon
1 cup cold heavy cream
1/4 tsp. ground allspice
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon In a large bowl, whisk the crème fraîche
with the sugar until smooth. In a sepa-
In a small bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the rate large bowl, whip the cream with
brandy or water. Set aside. Combine the thawed an electric hand-held or stand mixer
berries and their juices, sugar, lemon zest, allspice, until the cream just barely reaches the
and cinna­mon in a medium saucepan and bring firm-peak stage (it should hold a peak
to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often until when the beater is pulled away, but
the sugar dissolves. When bubbles ­appear on the it shouldn’t be grainy). With a rubber
side of the pan, just before the fruit reaches a full spatula, gently fold half of the whipped
boil, quickly stir in the cornstarch mixture. Let the cream into the crème fraîche and then
fruit boil for only 1 minute to cook the cornstarch; gently fold in the remaining half. Cover
overcooking will make the fruit disintegrate. Remove and refrigerate until ready to serve;
from the heat. The compote will thicken further whisk a few times before serving.
as it cools. Make the compote a day or two ahead
and refrigerate until needed. The compote may be
served at room temperature or slightly warm.

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 39

FCSIP48_Crowd_final.indd 39 12/22/10 3:10 PM

 asparagus, ham, and
mushroom strata
A strata is like an Italian quiche, but instead of
an involved pastry crust, leftover bread forms
the egg custard base. As with a bread pudding,
assemble this dish ahead of time and refriger-
ate it unbaked for up to 2 days. It’s up to you
whether or not to trim the bread crusts—they
give the strata a heartier texture.
Serves 8
2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for the pan
1 lb. asparagus, ends snapped off, cut
into 11/2-inch pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
31/2 oz. oyster mushrooms (or shiitake or
white mushrooms), stemmed and
thinly sliced
6 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced,
whites and greens separated (2 Tbs.
whites, 1/2 cup greens)
9 large eggs, beaten
23/4 cups milk (preferably whole)
1 large loaf (about 1 lb.) rustic white bread
(like ciabatta), cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 lb. thinly sliced deli ham, cut into
1-inch strips
3 cups grated extra-sharp Cheddar
(about 8 oz.)
Melt the butter in a large (12-inch) skillet over
medium-high heat. Add the asparagus, sprinkle
with 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until the spears start to
brown and soften, about 3 minutes. Add the
mushrooms and scallion whites and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the mushrooms soften and
cook through, about 2 minutes. Remove from the
heat and let cool for a couple of minutes.
Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish. Whisk the eggs
with the milk and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.
Spread the bread in a single layer on the bot-
tom of the baking dish. Top with half of the egg
mixture and then cover with half of the ham,
cheese, and asparagus mixture, and sprinkle
with half the scallion greens. Repeat with the
remaining egg mixture, ham, cheese, aspara-
gus mixture, and scallions. Cover with plastic,
pressing down so the bread is completely sub-
merged in the egg mixture, and refrigerate for at
least 4 hours and up to 2 days before baking.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and
heat the oven to 350°F. Let the strata sit at
room temperature while the oven heats. Bake
until the custard sets and the top browns,
about 30 minutes. Loosely cover with foil
and bake for another 20 minutes. Let cool for
10 minutes before cutting.
FCSIP48_Crowd_final.indd 45
apple, sage, and Heat the oven to 200°F. In a 10-inch
fennel breakfast skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil over m
heat. Add the apples and the scal-
­ edium
sausage lion whites. Cook, stirring occasionally,
until the apples soften and just begin
These sausages are full of flavor with
to brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Let cool for
the addition of sautéed apple and
10 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the
crushed fennel seeds.
apple mixture with the pork, scallion
Yields 16 21/2-inch patties; serves 8
greens, sage, fennel seeds, 1 tsp. salt,
3 Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed and 3/4 tsp. pepper. Mix with your hands
2 tart cooking apples (15 oz. total), until well combined, but don’t compact
such as Granny Smith or Pink Lady, the mixture. Gently shape into 16 pat-
peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch ties, about 3 inches in diameter and
dice
3/4 inch thick.
1 bunch scallions, trimmed and thinly In a 12-inch heavy skillet, or a grill
sliced, white and green parts divided
pan, heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil over
2 lb. ground pork (avoid pork labeled
“extra tender,” if possible)
medium-low to medium heat. Cook
the sausages (in batches so they’re
1/2 cup loosely packed fresh sage leaves,
finely chopped not crowded) until nicely browned and
11/2 tsp. fennel seeds, crushed in a mortar cooked through, about 5 minutes per
or lightly chopped side. Add more oil only if needed after
each batch, and adjust the heat to pre-
Table salt and freshly ground
black pepper vent overbrowning.
open-faced smoked salmon and
avocado sandwiches
This twist on bagels and lox gets a In a large bowl, gently mix (don’t
flavor boost from orange zest and mash) the avocado, scallion,
coriander. chopped cilantro, lime juice,
Yields 8 jalapeño, and 1/2 tsp. salt. In
another medium bowl, mix the oil,
3 firm-ripe medium avocados,
cut into medium dice
coriander, and orange zest. Toss
the salmon with the oil mixture.
2 medium scallions, thinly
sliced Rub the toasts lightly with the cut
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro; sides of the garlic clove. Portion
whole leaves for garnish the avocado mixture among the
2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. fresh lime juice toasts. Pile the salmon strips on
1 to 11/2 tsp. finely chopped top. Garnish with the cilantro
jalapeño leaves and serve immediately so
Kosher salt the toast stays crisp.
4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. toasted coriander seeds,
coarsely ground
1/2 tsp. (scant) finely grated
orange zest
1 lb. thinly sliced cold-smoked
salmon, cut into 11/2-inch-wide
strips
8 slices sourdough bread
(each 6½ inches long
and 1/2 inch thick),
toasted very crisp
2 medium cloves garlic,
halved
f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 45
12/22/10 3:13 PM
 Brandied Apricot-Almond Slab Pie, p. 52

FCSIP48_OnTheGo_final.indd 48 12/22/10 3:15 PM

 smoky black bean and cheddar french-style grilled ham
burritos with spinach and gruyère
Make the bean mixture the night before. In the morning, Forget take-out breakfast sandwiches: This grilled ham
just spread it on the tortilla, roll it, and hit the road. and cheese gets a twist from Dijon mustard and tarragon.
Serves 4 Serves 4

4 burrito-size (9- to 10-inch) flour tortillas 6 oz. coarsely grated Gruyère

15 grape tomatoes (about 1 pint), quartered lengthwise 2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon (or 1 tsp. dried)
2 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more as needed 4 tsp. salted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro 8 1/4-inch-thick slices egg bread, such as challah
Kosher salt or brioche
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbs. Dijon mustard; more for serving
1/4 cup raw pepitas (optional) 4 thin slices (about 1/4 lb. total) Black Forest ham
1 tsp. seeded and minced chipotle plus 1 tsp. adobo
sauce (from a can of chipotles en adobo)
In a small bowl, mix the cheese and tarragon. Butter all
the bread slices on one side only. Put four slices, buttered
3/4 tsp. ground cumin
side down, on a cutting board. Distribute the cheese over
1 19-oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed
the bread and top with the ham, folding the ham slices
1/2 cup grated sharp Cheddar
if they’re large. Spread about 11/2 tsp. mustard on the
11/2 oz. baby spinach (about 11/2  cups)
un­buttered side of the remaining bread slices and set
1/4 to 1/2 cup sour cream (optional) them, mustard side down, on top.
Heat a large nonstick pan or griddle over ­medium-high
Heat the oven to 250°F. Wrap the tortillas in aluminum
heat for 2 minutes. Put as many sandwiches as will fit in
foil and warm in the oven.
the pan or on the griddle without crowding, cover, and
Meanwhile, in a small bowl toss the tomatoes with 1 Tbs.
cook ­until the cheese has just begun to melt and the
of the lime juice, about 11/2 Tbs. of the cilantro, and a
bread is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove the lid
generous pinch of salt. Set aside. If using the pepitas, heat
and turn the sandwiches, pressing each one firmly with a
1 Tbs. of the olive oil and the pepitas in a 12-inch skillet
spatula to flatten it slightly. Cook the sandwiches uncov-
over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until they’re
ered until the ­bottom is golden brown, about 1 minute.
puffed and some are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Using
Turn them once more and press with the spatula again
a slotted spoon, transfer the pepitas to a plate lined with
to recrisp the bread, about 30 seconds. Cut in half and
a paper towel. Sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and
serve immediately, with more mustard on the side.
toss.
Return the pan to medium heat. Add the remaining
1 Tbs. olive oil (or, if not using pepitas, heat the 2 Tbs. oil).
Add the chipotle, adobo sauce, and cumin. Stir to blend
into the oil, and then add the beans and 2 Tbs. water to
the pan, stirring to blend. Simmer until warmed through,
about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Mash about half of
the beans with a fork. Stir in the Cheddar and the remain-
ing 21/2 Tbs. cilantro and 1 Tbs. lime juice. Season to taste
with salt. If the beans seem too thick, add 1 to 2 Tbs. water
to thin to a soft, spreadable consistency.
Working with one tortilla at a time, spread about a
quarter of the beans along the bottom third of a tortilla.
Top with a quarter of the spinach, and sprinkle with about
a quarter of the tomatoes and pepitas (if using). If you
like, add a little lime juice and sour cream on top. Fold the
bottom edge over the filling, fold in the sides, and roll up
the burrito.

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FCSIP48_OnTheGo_final.indd 51 12/22/10 3:16 PM

 on the go

brandied apricot-almond slab pie

Slab pies are like giant Pop-Tarts designed thick and syrupy; don’t let it scorch. Add the In a small bowl, mix the confectioners’ sugar,
to feed a crowd. As the pie cools, the filling— fresh apricots and lemon juice and cook, stir- cream, and vanilla extract to form a smooth
made with apricots both fresh and dried— ring often, until very soft, about 10 minutes. glaze that’s just fluid enough to drizzle. With a
firms up enough that the slices can be eaten Mash the mixture with a wooden spoon or spoon, drizzle the glaze over the top of the pie
out of hand. potato masher so that it has a thick, jam-like and immediately sprinkle with the remain-
Yields 1 large pie; serves 10 consistency. Remove from the heat. ing 1/4 cup almonds. Allow to set for at least
Stir ¾ cup of the almonds, the brandy, and 2 hours before serving.
FOR THE DOUGH
almond extract into the apricot mixture. Cool When ready to serve, use a serrated knife to
15 oz. (3 /
1 3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
to room temperature and set aside. (The fill- cut the pie. The pie is best eaten the day it’s
3 Tbs. granulated sugar
ing can be made, covered, and refrigerated up made, but it will keep for 1 day, well wrapped,
1/2 tsp. kosher salt to 2 days ahead.) at room temperature.
9 oz. (1 cup plus 2 Tbs.) cold unsalted
butter, cut into 18 pieces Assemble and bake the pie
Position a rack in the center of the oven and
11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) cold vegetable shortening,
cut into 3 pieces heat the oven to 375°F. Line a large rimmed seal right
baking sheet with parchment. In a small bowl, To seal the filled pie, press a fork
FOR THE FILLING
beat the egg yolk with 1 tsp. water. down gently, just enough to create
101/2 oz. (about 2 cups) dried apricots, a good bond (and a pretty crimped
coarsely chopped
On a lightly floured surface with a lightly
effect), but not so hard that it
floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 1/8-inch-
2/3 cup granulated sugar pushes through to the second layer
thick, 12x18-inch rectangle. Be sure to loosen of dough or pierces it, which may
2/3 cup dry white wine
the dough several times and reflour under- cause the filling to leak.
1/3 cup orange juice
neath so that it doesn’t stick. Trim the dough
12 oz. fresh apricots (about 6 small), into an 11x16-inch rectangle and transfer it
pitted and sliced
to the baking sheet. Turn the baking sheet
11/4 tsp. fresh lemon juice
so that a long side faces you, and brush the
31/2 oz. (1 cup) sliced almonds, toasted
edges of the dough with the egg wash. Spread
11/2 Tbs. brandy the apricot filling evenly over the bottom half
1/4 tsp. pure almond extract of the dough, leaving a ½-inch border. Fold the
top half of the dough over the filling, pressing
FOR ASSEMBLY
along the edges to secure the sides. Press
1 large egg yolk
lightly along the edges with the back of a fork
2 oz. (1/2 cup) confectioners’ sugar, sifted
to seal. Brush egg wash all over the top of the
11/2 Tbs. heavy cream or whole milk dough. Using a paring knife, cut 5 small steam
1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract vents in the dough at about 3-inch intervals.
Bake until the pie is golden-brown, 55 min-
Make the dough
utes. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.
Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a food proces-
sor. Add the butter and vegetable shortening
and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse
meal, 10 to 12 pulses. Sprinkle 1/3 cup cold water
over the mixture and pulse until the dough just
starts to come together, 8 to 10 pulses more. If
the mixture seems dry, add more water 1 tsp. at
a time. Do not overprocess.
Turn the dough out onto a clean work
surface, and gather it into a rectangle that’s
about 8 by 12 inches. Flatten slightly, wrap in
plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours
and up to 3 days.
Make the filling
In a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan, combine
the dried apricots, sugar, wine, orange juice,
and 2/3 cup water. Simmer over medium-low
heat, stirring often, until the apricots are very
tender and can be mashed with a wooden
spoon, 40 to 45 minutes. Add more water if
the apricots are still not soft after most of the
liquid has evaporated. The mixture should get

52 b r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1

FCSIP48_OnTheGo_final.indd 52 12/22/10 3:16 PM

 oven-toasted ham, brie, and apple sandwiches
Remove the rind from the brie while the
cheese is still cold. For a meaty flavor
and texture, choose a thinly sliced ham
steak rather than deli ham. Look for a
ham steak that’s labeled “ham in natural
juices.”
Serves 4
1 large baguette (about 1 lb),
cut into 4 pieces
7 oz. brie, most of the rind trimmed
off, thinly sliced
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
1½ medium Granny Smith apples,
peeled (optional), cored, and
cut into ¼-inch-thick wedges
(about 1½ cups)
¾ lb. ham steak, thinly sliced on the
diagonal
2 Tbs. whole-grain Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. honey
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
FCSIP48_OnTheGo_final.indd 53
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat the oven to 425°F. Split the
baguette pieces lengthwise, open them
up like a book, and top one side with the
leftover brie
brie. Set on a baking sheet lined with Although brie is tradition-
ally spread on crackers or
parchment or aluminum foil and bake bread, it’s also a delicious
until the cheese melts and the bread ingredient in savory cook-
lightly browns, about 5 minutes. ing. Try folding leftover brie
into mashed potatoes,
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large
risotto, or polenta, where
(12-inch) heavy skillet over medium-high it will add sharp richness—
heat. Add the apples and cook, tossing just be sure to remove the
every minute or so, until they start to rind first.
soften and brown in places, 3 to 4 min-
utes. Add the ham and cook, tossing
­gently, until it warms. Remove from the
heat and gently toss with the mustard,
honey, and thyme until the ham and
apples are evenly coated. Using tongs,
distribute the ham mixture into the warm
pieces of baguette, secure with 2 tooth-
picks, cut in half, and serve.
f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 53
12/22/10 3:16 PM
 on the go

watermelon, tomato, chinese pork and

and feta salad mushroom wraps
Pop this into a plastic container and pack a fork for a fruit- This Asian take on a soft burrito can be eaten out of
filled start to your day. hand, hot or cold. It’s a great way to use up pork loin
Serves 6 to 8 leftovers.
Serves 6 to 8
2 large yellow tomatoes (about 11/4 lb.), cored and cut into
3/4-inch pieces 6 cups thinly sliced green cabbage
1 lb. seedless watermelon, trimmed of rind and cut into (about 3/4 lb.)
3/4-inch pieces Kosher salt
2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint 2 Tbs. hoisin sauce (we like Koon Chun or Lee
6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil Kum Kee brands), plus 1/2 cup for serving
11/2 Tbs. red wine vinegar 1 Tbs. soy sauce
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 2 tsp. Asian sesame oil
Kosher salt 1 tsp. rice vinegar
8 oz. feta, cut into 3/4-inch pieces 3 Tbs. canola or peanut oil
Coarse sea salt (optional) 2 cups matchstick-cut already cooked roasted
pork loin (about 1/2 lb.)
In a large serving bowl, combine the tomatoes, water- 1 bunch scallions, trimmed, whites and light green
melon, and mint. In a small bowl, whisk the oil, vinegar, red parts thinly sliced and green parts cut into 2-inch
pepper flakes, and 1 tsp. kosher salt. Pour over the tomato pieces (keep separate)
mixture and toss well. Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes at 1/2 lb. fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and
thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
room temperature. Fold in the feta and toss well.
Serve, sprinkled lightly with the coarse sea salt, if using 2 large eggs, beaten
(use about 1/2 tsp.—it adds a bit of texture); this salad can 2 tsp. minced fresh ginger
sit for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature. 2 tsp. minced garlic
6 to 8 medium (about 8-inch diameter) flour
tortillas, warmed

Put the cabbage in a colander over the sink and toss

with 1/2 tsp. salt. Let sit for 10 minutes. Transfer to a
baking sheet lined with paper towels and pat dry.
In a small bowl, mix 2 Tbs. of the hoisin sauce with
the soy sauce, sesame oil, and vinegar. Set aside.
In a 12-inch heavy-duty nonstick skillet, heat 1 Tbs.
of the canola oil over medium-high heat until
shimmering. Add the pork, sprinkle lightly with salt
and cook, stirring, until it starts to brown around
the edges, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large
plate. Add another 1 Tbs. oil to the pan and once it’s
shimmering, add the scallion whites, the mushrooms,
and 1/4 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until
they brown and soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Push the
mushroom mixture to one side of the pan and add
the eggs. Cook, scrambling and breaking up with a
wooden spoon or spatula into small pieces, until just
set, about 1 minute. Transfer the contents of the
skillet to the plate with the pork.
Heat the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and add the scallion
greens, cabbage, ginger, and garlic. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add
the reserved hoisin mixture and the pork mixture to
the cabbage and stir to distribute the hoisin. Cook,
stirring occasionally, for 1 minute to meld the flavors.
Spread about 1 Tbs. of the hoisin down the center
of a tortilla, arrange a generous amount of the pork
mixture over the hoisin, and wrap in the tortilla,
burrito-style.

54 b r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1

FCSIP48_OnTheGo_final.indd 54 12/22/10 3:16 PM

 f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 55

FCSIP48_OnTheGo_final.indd 55 12/22/10 3:17 PM

 apple brown-butter
jalousie
The filling for this oversized toaster pastry
can be made and stored in a covered con-
tainer in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Yields one 6x14-inch jalousie pastry;
serves 8
11/4 to 11/2 lb. Granny Smith apples (about
3 medium), peeled, halved lengthwise,
cored, and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch-
thick slices
1/4 cup packed light or dark brown sugar
3 Tbs. granulated sugar
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
Pinch of freshly grated or ground nutmeg
3 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped out
with the back of a knife
1 large egg
1 sheet frozen packaged puff pastry
(Pepperidge Farm brand), thawed
overnight in the fridge or according to
package instructions
Flour, for rolling
1 tsp. demerara, turbinado, or
granulated sugar
Crème fraîche, lightly sweetened
whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream,
for serving (optional)
Make the filling
In a large bowl, toss the apples, brown sugar,
granulated sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon,
salt, and nutmeg.
In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter over
medium heat until the milk solids turn golden
brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat,
add the vanilla seeds, and stir. Carefully add
the apple mixture to the skillet; with a heat-
proof rubber spatula, scrape all the sugar
and spices from the bowl into the skillet.
Stir the apples to coat them with the butter
and then spread them in a fairly even layer.
Return the pan to medium heat and cook,
stirring gently with the spatula every few min-
utes (try not to break the apple slices), until
the apples are tender but not mushy (taste
one) and still hold their shape, and the juices
have cooked down to a fairly thick, brown,
bubbling syrup, 10 to 13 minutes. Scrape
the apples into a wide shallow dish or onto
a baking sheet to cool completely before
assembling the jalousie.
FCSIP48_OnTheGo_final.indd 57
Assemble the jalousie Gently unfold the top piece of dough and
Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parch- stretch it over the filling, matching the
ment. In a small bowl, make an egg wash straight edges all the way around the perim-
by beating the egg with 1 Tbs. water until eter of the dough. Press the edges gently
well combined. Unfold the pastry dough on with your fingertips to seal the dough, and
a floured surface and gently pinch together then, with a fork, very gently crimp the edges
any seams that have split. With a floured of the dough all the way around the pastry.
rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12x14-inch Chill the assembled jalousie for 15 to 20 min-
rectangle. With a sharp knife, cut the rect- utes. Meanwhile, position a rack in the lower
angle in half lengthwise to form two 6x14- third of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.
inch rectangles. Use a long spatula to help
Bake the jalousie
you move one of the dough ­rectangles onto
Right before baking, brush the top of the
the prepared baking sheet.
jalousie with a very light coating of the
Use a pastry brush to brush a 1-inch border
remaining egg wash (you won’t need it all)
of egg wash around the perimeter of the
and sprinkle with the demerara, turbinado, or
dough. (Save the remaining egg wash.)
granulated sugar.
Arrange the fruit in a 4-inch-wide strip down
Bake for 15 minutes and then rotate the
the length of the dough. (Shingle the apple
baking sheet. Continue baking until the
slices in a thick herringbone pattern down
pastry is puffed, deep golden brown on top,
the length of the dough; you may need to
and light golden brown on the bottom (use a
make a double layer of apples.) Some syrupy
spatula to gently lift the jalousie so you can
apple juices will likely remain in the dish;
peek underneath), another 10 to 15 minutes.
spoon 2 to 3 Tbs. over the apples. If some
Immediately transfer the jalousie from the
of the liquid seeps onto the egg-washed
baking sheet to a wire rack and let cool for at
border, don’t worry about it.
least 45 minutes. (Instead of trying to move
Lightly dust the remaining piece of puff
the hot jalousie with a spatula, lift the parch-
pastry with flour and then gently fold it in
ment to move the jalousie to the rack and
half lengthwise; don’t crease the fold. Using
then carefully slide the paper out from under
a sharp knife, cut 11/2-inch-long slashes at
the pastry.)
1-inch intervals along the folded side of the
Serve slightly warm or at room tempera-
dough; leave at least a 1-inch border on the
ture with crème fraîche, lightly sweetened
remaining three sides. Do not unfold the
whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream, if you
dough. Using a long spatula, gently lift the
like. It’s best the day it’s made, but the jalou-
folded strip and position it over the fruit-
sie will keep, wrapped well in aluminum foil,
filled dough rectangle, matching up the
for 3 days. You can reheat it in a 325°F oven
straight edges.
for 5 minutes before serving.
f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 57
12/22/10 3:17 PM
 on the go
ham and cheese croissants
Stuffed with ham and cheese,
these croissants are a decadent
take on the traditional breakfast
sandwich.
Yields 15
For the dough
1 lb. 2 oz. (4 cups) unbleached
all-purpose flour; more for
rolling
5 oz. (1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs.) cold
water
5 oz. (1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs.) cold
whole milk
2 oz. (1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs.)
granulated sugar
11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) soft unsalted
butter
1 Tbs. plus scant 1/2 tsp.
instant yeast
21/4 tsp. table salt
For the butter layer
10 oz. (11/4 cups) cold unsalted
butter
For the Egg wash and Filling
1 large egg
1/2 lb. sliced ham
1/2 lb. thinly sliced Cheddar or
Gruyère
MAKE THE DOUGH
Combine all of the dough ingredi-
ents in the bowl of a stand mixer
fitted with the dough hook. Mix on
low speed for 3 minutes, scrap-
ing the sides of the bowl once if
necessary. Mix on medium speed
for 3 minutes. Transfer the dough
to a lightly floured 10-inch pie pan
or a dinner plate. Lightly flour the
top of the dough and wrap well
with plastic so it doesn’t dry out.
Refrigerate overnight.
MAKE THE BUTTER LAYER
The next day, cut the cold butter
lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick
slabs. Arrange the slabs on a
piece of parchment or waxed
paper to form a 5- to 6-inch
square, cutting the butter cross-
wise as necessary to fit. Top with
an­other piece of parchment or
waxed paper. With a rolling pin,
pound the butter with light, even
strokes. As the pieces begin to
adhere, use more force. Pound
the butter until it’s about 71/2
58 b r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1
FCSIP48_OnTheGo_final.indd 58
inches square and then trim the
edges of the butter. Put the trim-
mings on top of the square and
pound them in lightly with the
rolling pin. Refrigerate while you
roll out the dough.
LAMINATE THE DOUGH
Unwrap and lay the dough on a
lightly floured work surface. Roll
into a 101/2-inch square. Brush
excess flour off the dough.
Remove the butter from the
refrigerator—it should be pliable
but cold. If not, refrigerate a bit
longer. Unwrap and place the
butter on the dough so that the
points of the butter square are
centered along the sides of the
dough. Fold one flap of dough
over the butter toward you,
stretching it slightly so that the
point just reaches the center
of the butter. Repeat with the
other flaps. Then press the edges
together to completely seal the
butter inside the dough. (A com-
plete seal ensures butter won’t
escape.)
Lightly flour the top and bottom
of the dough. With the rolling
pin, firmly press the dough to
elongate it slightly and then begin
rolling instead of pressing, focus-
ing on lengthening rather than layer for flavor
widening the dough and keeping
Thinly sliced ham and sliced or
the edges straight . Roll the dough grated cheese—a good Cheddar or
until it’s 8x24 inches. If the ends Gruyère is best—make the classic
croissant deliciously savory.
lose their square shape, gently
reshape the corners with your
hands. Brush any flour off the
dough. Pick up one short end of
the dough and fold it back over
the dough, leaving one-third of
the other end of dough exposed.
Brush the flour off and then fold
the exposed dough over the
folded side. Put the dough on a
baking sheet, cover with plastic
wrap, and freeze for 20 minutes
to relax and chill the dough.
Repeat the rolling and folding,
this time roll­ing in the direction
of the two open ends until the
dough is about 8x24 inches.
Fold the dough in thirds again,
brushing off excess flour and
turning under any rounded edges
12/22/10 3:17 PM
 individual cinnamon coffee cakes For the glaze

with chocolate-cherry-almond swirl

1 cup confectioners’ sugar
4 to 5 tsp. strong brewed coffee
If you want to bake these fresh for special overnight guests, start the
A day before baking, make the dough
dough the day before and get up early the next day to finish in time
In the bowl of a stand mixer, gently whisk the warm milk with the yeast
for a leisurely breakfast. The cakes also freeze like a dream. Wrap
to combine. ­Sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the sugar. Let the yeast proof until
unglazed cooled cakes well in plastic wrap and freeze for up to a
air pockets float up, making the mixture look spongy, 5 to 10 minutes.
month. Defrost them overnight (or for a few hours) in the refrigerator
Add the remaining dough ingredients and mix with the paddle
and warm them in a low oven before heading out the door.
attachment on medium-low speed until the dough comes together,
Serves 8
and then continue mixing for 6 minutes to knead the dough, scraping
For the dough the sides of the bowl once or twice. The dough should be loose and
1/2 cup warm whole milk (about 105°F) seem more like a tacky batter.
11/2 tsp. active dry yeast Immediately scrape the dough into a greased bowl that’s at least
1/3 cup plus 2 tsp. granulated sugar twice the dough’s size, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate
9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour overnight.
1/2 tsp. table salt Make the filling
1 tsp. ground cinnamon The next morning, put the chocolate in a food processor and pulse to
2 large eggs, lightly beaten chop coarsely. Add the dried cherries, almonds, sugar, and cinnamon
5 oz. (10 Tbs.) very soft unsalted butter and pulse until quite fine. Add the egg white and process just until
1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted the ingredients form a rough paste. (Cover the leftover yolk and
refrigerate.)
For the filling
1/4 lb. semisweet chocolate Assemble the bread
6 oz. (about 1 cup) dried cherries Grease 8 cups of a 12-cup muffin pan. Scrape the chilled dough onto a
1 cup sliced almonds, toasted liberally floured surface. Using a well-floured rolling pin, gently roll the
1/3 cup granulated sugar dough into a rectangle about 12x8 inches. Work quickly; the warmer
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon the dough gets, the harder it is to handle. Spread the filling by hand
over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border on all four sides. It’s all right
1 large egg, separated
if it’s a bit uneven. Starting with a long side, roll the dough into a log
1/2 tsp. whole milk
shape. If the dough sticks to the work surface, use a bench knife or a
spatula to lift it.
Brush the excess flour from the top and sides of the dough roll. Using
a sharp knife, trim the ends of the roll just enough to expose the spiral
of filling. Discard the trimmings. Cut the roll into 8 equal slices (each
about 11/2 to 2 inches wide). Set each slice, spiral side up, in a greased
muffin cup, brushing the flour from the bottom of each piece as you
go. Press very gently to be sure each piece reaches the bottom of the
cup. Pour a few Tbs. of water into the empty, ungreased cups.
Cover the dough with a clean, damp dishtowel or an oversize plastic
storage container (to make a little “greenhouse”) and let rise until light
and billowy, 11/2 to 2 hours.
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350°F. Make an egg wash by mixing the
reserved egg yolk with the 1/2 tsp. milk. Just before baking, brush the
dough with the egg wash. Bake until puffed and deep golden, 20 to
25 minutes. Let cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Carefully siphon or drain the
water from the extra cups and wipe dry. Loosen under the edge of the
cakes’ caps with the tip of a paring knife. If the cakes grew together
during baking, cut between them to separate. Turn onto a cooling rack.
Make and apply the glaze
In a cup, mix the confectioners’ sugar and coffee to make a smooth
paste. It should be thick but still pourable. Drizzle over the cakes after
they have cooled slightly.

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 61

FCSIP48_OnTheGo_final.indd 61 12/22/10 3:18 PM

 Creamy Coconut Oatmeal with Dried Peaches
and Candied Coconut Pecans, p. 71

FCSIP48_QuickStart_final.indd 62 12/22/10 3:27 PM

 Q u i c k s ta r t
baked eggs with
chives and cream
These eggs are surprisingly easy:
They’re ready in about 10 minutes.
Serves 2
2 tsp. unsalted butter,
softened
4 large eggs
Kosher salt and freshly
ground black pepper
1½ tsp. chopped fresh
chives
2 Tbs. heavy cream
66 b r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1
FCSIP48_QuickStart_final.indd 66
Position a rack in the center of
the oven and heat the oven to
425°F. Butter two 6-inch gratin
dishes with 1 tsp. butter each.
Crack 2 eggs into each gratin
dish. Season with a pinch of salt
and pepper and sprinkle with the
chives. Drizzle 1 Tbs. cream in
each dish, starting over the yolks
and working around the dish.
Bake until the eggs are bubbly
and browned on the edges
but not quite set in the middle,
5 minutes. (For firmer eggs, bake
an additional 1 minute .)
Heat the broiler on high. Broil the
eggs, still on the center rack of
the oven, until the center is just
set, about 2 minutes. Remove
from the oven immediately—the
eggs will continue to set.
candied bacon
This maple syrup-coated, brown sugar-
crusted bacon is the perfect salty-sweet
marriage.
Serves 2
6 slices thick-cut bacon
2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. pure maple syrup
11/2 Tbs. light brown sugar
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat the oven to 425°F. Arrange the
bacon slices on a rimmed baking sheet.
Drizzle both sides with the maple syrup
and then sprinkle both sides evenly with
the brown sugar. Bake until browned and
crisp, 20 to 22 minutes.
12/22/10 3:29 PM
 b r e a k fa s t f o r d i n n e r
pork and potato hash with
poached eggs and avocado
Transform pork leftovers by making a
hash topped with poached eggs.
Serves 4
11/2 lb. russet potatoes, peeled and
cut into small dice (about 33/4
cups)
Kosher salt
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more
as needed
1 medium yellow onion, cut into
small dice (about 11/4 cups)
21/4 cups leftover finely shredded
already-cooked pork
2 medium cloves garlic,
finely chopped
1/2 tsp. white wine vinegar or
lemon juice
4 large eggs
1 large ripe avocado, sliced
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh
cilantro
Piment d’Espelette or other
medium-hot red chile flakes
(optional)
Put the potatoes in a medium
saucepan, add water to cover by
about 3/4 inch, and add 1 Tbs. salt.
Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce
the heat to maintain a simmer, and
cook until the potatoes are tender
but not falling apart, about 5 min-
utes. Drain the potatoes, transfer to
a plate, and set aside.
Heat the oil in a 10-inch straight-
sided sauté pan over medium-high
76 b r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1
FCSIP48_Dinner_Final.indd 76
creamy fontina polenta
with mushroom ragù
This warm and comforting dish gets a
“meaty” feel from sauteed mushrooms.
Serves 6
Kosher salt
1 cup coarse yellow cornmeal
2 Tbs. olive oil
4 oz. fresh cremini mushrooms, trimmed
and sliced
1 medium clove garlic, minced
1½ cups (1 oz. ) mixed dried mushrooms,
rehydrated (see below) and chopped, plus
¾ cup of the soaking liquid
2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
Freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups grated Fontina (about 6 oz.)
heat. Add the onion and 1/2 tsp. salt
and cook, stirring occasionally until
In a 3-quart saucepan, bring 4½ cups water
soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the pork
to a boil. Whisk in 1½ tsp. salt and then the
and continue to cook until the pork is
cornmeal. Reduce the heat to medium low
warm, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic
and cook, stirring occasionally, until the
and cook, stirring, until the raw garlic
cornmeal is tender and absorbs all the liquid,
aroma subsides, about 1 minute. Add
about 30 minutes.
the potatoes, toss gently to combine,
Meanwhile, make the mushroom ragù. Heat
and continue to cook, stirring, until
the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high
heated through, 1 to 3 minutes more.
heat. Add the fresh mushrooms and cook,
Season to taste with salt. If the hash
stirring, until they soften, 3 to 4 minutes.
is a little dry, add a drizzle of olive oil.
Reduce the heat to medium, add the garlic,
Keep warm.
and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1
Fill a medium saucepan with
minute. Add the rehydrated mushrooms and
3 inches of water. Add the vinegar
their liquid, the thyme, ¼ tsp. salt, and ½ tsp.
and a pinch of salt, and bring the
pepper; cover with the lid partially ajar and
water to a simmer. Crack the eggs one
cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is
at a time into a small bowl or teacup
a saucy consistency and the mushrooms
and then gently slide each egg into
soften, 7 to 8 minutes.
the water. Poach the eggs, gently
Stir the Fontina into the polenta. Taste and
turning once or twice until the whites
season with salt as needed. Serve the polenta
are completely opaque but the yolks
topped with the ragù.
are still soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a
slotted spoon, remove the eggs from
the water and gently blot dry with a
towel.
Portion the hash among 4 plates. rehydrating
Prop a poached egg and a few slices
of avocado next to each portion. dried mushrooms
Sprinkle the egg and avocado with Place the mushrooms in a ­medium heatproof
salt. Sprinkle the cilantro and piment bowl. Submerge the mushrooms under 2 cups
d’Espelette (if using) over the hash, of boiling water, or enough to cover them by
and serve immediately. about an inch, and weight down with a small
plate. Soak until the mushrooms are plumped
and ­softened, about 20 minutes. Transfer the
mushrooms to a cutting board, squeezing any
excess liquid from the mushrooms. Let cool.
Remove and discard any tough stems.
12/22/10 3:41 PM
 f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 77

FCSIP48_Dinner_Final.indd 77 12/22/10 3:42 PM

 pork chops with maple-
ginger pan sauce
Maple syrup brings a bit of breakfast flavor
to any meal.
Serves 2

4 thin (1/2-inch) boneless center-cut

pork chops
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup homemade or lower-salt chicken
broth or water
2 Tbs. dark rum
1 Tbs. pure maple syrup, preferably
grade B
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
2 Tbs. olive oil; more if needed
1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
11/2 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint

Pat the pork chops dry with paper towels.

Put the flour on a plate. Combine the broth
or water, rum, and maple syrup in a measur-
ing cup or small bowl; set aside. Generously
season the pork chops on both sides with
salt and pepper. Dredge the chops in the
flour and shake off the excess.
Heat a large skillet on ­medium-high heat for
1 minute. Add the oil, and when it’s hot, set
the chops in the pan (if they won’t fit without
crowding, cook them in batches). Cook until
one side is light golden, about 2 minutes.
Turn the pieces and cook until the other
side is light golden and the meat is cooked
through but still moist, another 1 to 2 min-
utes. (Because the meat is so thin, it can’t
get more than light golden on each side
without becoming overcooked and dry.)
Transfer the chops to a plate and repeat
with the remaining chops, if necessary.
Add the ginger and garlic to the pan and stir
constantly until they begin to turn golden,
5 to 10 seconds, and then immediately add
the maple-rum mixture to the pan. Use a
wooden spoon or spatula to scrape up the
browned bits and help them dissolve. Boil
until the sauce has reduced by about two-
thirds and is nicely saucy, 3 to 4 minutes.
Off the heat, add the butter, swirling the
pan vigorously (or whisking) as it melts so it
emulsifies the sauce. Season to taste with
salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the
pork and then sprinkle on the cilantro and
mint. Serve right away.

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 79

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 b r e a k fa s t f o r d i n n e r
tomato and
mozzarella omelet
Paired with a green salad and
baguette, this omelet makes a
satisfying dinner.
Yields 1 omelet; serves 1
2 tsp. olive oil
2 Tbs. minced onion
1/2 tsp. minced garlic
Kosher salt
1/4 cup chopped and drained
canned tomatoes
1 oil-packed sun-dried tomato,
minced (to yield 1 tsp.)
Freshly ground black pepper
2 large or extra-large eggs
5 leaves fresh basil, very thinly
sliced (to yield 1 Tbs.)
1 tsp. unsalted butter
1 thin slice mozzarella, cut in half
1 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-
Reggiano
1 Tbs. good-quality store-bought
basil pesto
In a medium skillet, heat 1 tsp.
of the oil over medium heat. Add
the onion; cook, stirring, until
tender and translucent, about 5
minutes, add­ing the garlic and 2
pinches of salt half­way through.
Raise the heat to medium high.
Cook, stirring, until golden, another
1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the canned
tomatoes; ­simmer until the liquid
has ­evaporated, about 2 minutes.
Add the sun-dried tomatoes, sev-
eral grinds of pepper, and a pinch
of salt if needed. You should have
about 1/4 cup filling; set aside 1 tsp.
for garnish.
In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs,
basil, 1 Tbs. water, 2 pinches of salt,
and 4 grinds of pepper ­until the
yolks and whites are well combined
but not foamy. In an 8-inch heavy-
duty nonstick skillet over medium-
high heat, heat the remaining 1 tsp.
oil and then add the butter. Swirl to
coat the pan.
80 b r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1
FCSIP48_Dinner_Final.indd 80
When the butter melts, pour the braised sausages with
eggs into the pan. With a heatproof
spatula, scramble the eggs using balsamic-glazed onions
small, circular scribbling ­motions
until soft curds start to form, 30 to
and grapes
Sausage and grapes are a classic Italian pairing.
50 seconds. As the mixture firms,
The addition of balsamic vinegar and caramel-
spread it over the bottom of the
ized onions turns this into a quick, warming
pan; swipe the sides as needed.
braise. Piercing the sausages with the tines of
Stop working the curds to let the
a fork will allow them to release some of their
omelet begin to firm and let it sit
juices and infuse the broth.
about 30 seconds. (If you like your
Serves 4
eggs well done, let it go a bit longer.)
Add the mozzarella evenly, leaving 3 Tbs. olive oil
a scant margin around the omelet’s 8 links sweet Italian sausage (about
edge. Add the tomato filling and 2 lb.), pricked with a fork
use your spatula to gently press 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
(about 2 cups)
them into the curds to incorporate
the filling into the omelet. Kosher salt
With the spatula, lift one-third 1/2 cup homemade or lower-salt
chicken broth
of the omelet and fold it over the
2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
center like a business letter. Tilt
the pan toward the plate to slide 20 seedless red grapes, halved
the omelet so one-third of it hangs 2 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano
over the pan’s edge. Invert the pan,
In a large (12-inch) skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil
using the spatula to help support
over medium heat until it’s shimmering. Add
the omelet so that it flips neatly
the sausages and cook, turning every couple of
over itself as it slides out of the pan.
minutes, until they’re browned all over, about
Garnish with the Parmigiano, the
8 minutes. Transfer to a large plate.
pesto, and the reserved filling.
Add the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and the onion
to the pot, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until the onion softens
completely and starts to turn light brown, about
7 minutes. Add the chicken broth and balsamic
vinegar and scrape the bottom of the pot with a
wooden spoon to incorporate any browned bits.
Reduce to a gentle simmer (medium low or low,
depending on your stovetop). Add the sausages
and grapes, cover the pot with the lid ajar, and
cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausages are
cooked through (slice into one to check), about
25 minutes. Serve sprinkled with the oregano.
storing links
Most sausage will hold in
the refrigerator for three
or four days after open-
ing. For longer storage,
pack a couple of links in
a zip-top bag and freeze
for up to three months.
When ready to use, thaw
in the refrigerator.
12/22/10 3:42 PM
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FCSIP48_Dinner_Final.indd 81 12/22/10 3:43 PM

 b r e a k fa s t f o r d i n n e r
steak and eggs
rancheros
This beefed-up version of the Mexican
breakfast dish huevos rancheros (ranch-
style eggs) makes a hearty dinner.
Serves 2
1 tiny clove garlic
Kosher salt
1 small tomato, cut into small dice
1/2 avocado, cut into small dice
1/4 cup homemade or store-bought
salsa, drained
1/4 fresh jalapeño, minced
2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
Freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbs. vegetable oil
2 6-inch corn tortillas
2 large eggs
4 to 5 oz. sliced leftover steak (about
four 1/2-inch-thick slices), warmed in
the microwave or in a skillet
1/4 cup crumbled feta
Peel and chop the garlic. Sprinkle the gar-
lic with a generous pinch of salt and mash
it into a paste with the side of a chef’s knife.
In a small bowl, combine the garlic with
FCSIP48_Dinner_Final.indd 82
the tomato, avocado, salsa, jalapeño, and
1 Tbs. of the cilantro. Season to taste with
salt and pepper.
Have ready two dinner plates and a stack
of paper towels. Heat the oil in a 10-inch
nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.
Using tongs, fry the tortillas one at a time
until just golden and slightly crisp, about
30 seconds per side, and transfer to the
paper towels. Reduce the heat to medium
low and let the skillet cool down a bit.
Meanwhile, blot the excess oil from the
tortillas with the paper towels. Sprinkle
each tortilla with a pinch of salt. Put one
tortilla on each plate.
Crack the eggs into the skillet. Season with
salt and pepper, cover, and cook until the
yolks’ edges have just begun to set, 2 to
3 minutes. (The eggs should cook gently,
so lower the heat if needed.)
While the eggs are cooking, divide half
the salsa between the tortillas. Divide the
steak between the tortillas and top with
the remaining salsa. Separate the eggs
with the edge of a spatula, if needed. Slide
one egg onto each tortilla. Sprinkle with
the remaining 1 Tbs. cilantro and the feta.
Serve immediately.
pan-fried
southwestern hash
Buttery fingerling potatoes and a
healthy punch of spice wake up this
hash. This technique—parboiling the
potatoes and then sautéing them and
the onions and peppers separately—
ensures that the potatoes have a soft
interior and crisp exterior.
Serves 4 to 6
1¼ lb. fingerling potatoes, cut into
½-inch pieces
Kosher salt
1�3 cup canola oil
1 large yellow onion, finely diced
(about 1 cup)
½ large red bell pepper, cut into
¼-inch dice (about ¾ cup)
½ medium green bell pepper, cut
into ¼-inch dice (about ½ cup)
1 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. fresh oregano
Freshly ground black pepper
Put the potatoes in a 3-quart sauce-
pan, cover with cold water by a couple
of inches, stir in 1 Tbs. salt, and bring to
a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and
cook until the potatoes are tender but
still firm, about 10 minutes. Drain well.
In a 12-inch heavy skillet, heat 3 Tbs.
of the oil over medium-high heat until
the oil is shimmering. Lower the heat
to medium, add the potatoes, sprinkle
with ¼ tsp. salt, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until they brown and start
to crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a
large plate.
Raise the heat to medium high, pour
the remaining oil into the skillet, add the
onion and bell pepper, sprinkle with ½
tsp. salt, and cook, tossing occasionally,
until they brown and become some-
what tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in
the chili powder, oregano, and ½ tsp.
pepper, and cook, tossing, for 30 sec-
onds so the spices become fragrant.
Add the potatoes and cook, tossing,
until they heat through and pick up the
flavors of the vegetables and spices,
about 2 minutes. Taste and season with
salt and pepper if needed, and serve.
12/22/10 3:43 PM
FCSIP48_Dinner_Final.indd 83 12/22/10 3:43 PM
 toasted bread
with chocolate
Sometimes, all you want is something sweet
before bed. Adding a drizzle of olive oil and a
pinch of salt is a sophisticated touch.
Serves 8

8 1/2-inch-thick slices good bread, such as

a rustic peasant bread or a real baguette
Best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
for drizzling
4 oz. best-quality bittersweet chocolate,
very coarsely chopped (scant 1 cup)
Sea salt, kosher salt, or any specialty salt

Position a rack 4 inches from the broiler element

and heat the broiler to high. Put the bread on a
baking sheet and toast until light golden on both
sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Drizzle the bread
with olive oil. Distribute the chocolate evenly on
top of the bread. Turn off the broiler and return
the bread to the oven until the residual heat
melts the chocolate, about 1 minute. Smooth the
chocolate with a table knife, if you want. Sprinkle
a pinch of salt on each slice and serve.

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 87

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 m i d n i g h t c r av i n g s
pork, sweet potato, and apple sauté
Instead of pork chops for breakfast, a small tenderloin
topped with fruit and vegetables is a satisfying dish.
Serves 2 to 3
1 medium sweet potato (about 11 oz.), unpeeled
1 medium yellow onion (about 6 oz.), peeled
1 Golden Delicious apple, unpeeled
1 small pork tenderloin (about 1 lb.)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbs. unsalted butter
3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely
chopped or grated
4 Tbs. cider vinegar
2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)
Cut the sweet potato, onion, and apple into 1/2-inch cubes
or pieces and set each aside separately. Slice the pork into
12 to 14 medallions about 3/4 to 1 inch thick (don’t worry if
they’re not all even). Season them with 1 tsp. salt and a little
pepper and set aside.
In a large straight-sided skillet, melt 1 Tbs. each of the but-
ter and oil over medium heat. Add the sweet potato pieces
in one layer and season with about 3/4 tsp. salt and a little
pepper. Sauté them until they’re brown and crusty on most
sides, about 10 minutes. (Don’t stir often; let them sit in the
88 b r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1
FCSIP48_Midnight_Final.indd 88
pan for 2 or 3 minutes on each side before flipping with a
metal spatula.) Carefully add 3 Tbs. water to the pan, and,
as it sizzles, cover the pan briefly (about 1 minute) to let the
potato steam. Uncover, stir, and transfer to a bowl.
Turn the heat to medium high, heat another 1 Tbs. each but-
ter and oil in the pan, and add the onion and apple. Season
with 1/2 tsp. salt. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion
is soft and both the onion and apple are nicely browned
around the edges (the bottom of the pan will be brown), 6
to 8 minutes. Stir in the ginger, sauté briefly, and pour 2 Tbs.
cider vinegar and 2 Tbs. water into the pan. Remove the
pan from the heat and stir to scrape up the browned bits.
Transfer the contents of the pan to the bowl with the sweet
potatoes.
Put the pan back over medium-high heat and add the
remaining 1 Tbs. butter and 1 Tbs. oil. As soon as the butter
sizzles loudly, add the pork medallions in one layer. Cook for
2 minutes (they’ll be lightly browned), turn over, and cook
for another 2 minutes. Transfer the pork to a plate. Carefully
pour in the remaining 2 Tbs. cider vinegar and 2 Tbs. water,
remove the pan briefly from the heat, and scrape up the
browned bits. Return the sweet potato mixture to the pan
over the heat and stir until heated through. Put several pork
slices in the middle of each of 2 or 3 warm plates. Fold the
parsley, if using, into the sweet potato mixture and evenly
mound it on top of the pork.
12/22/10 3:57 PM
 spaghetti alla carbonara
If you’d like to make this pasta for four people,
double the recipe, but transfer the pasta back
into the pot used for cooking it and then toss it
with the eggs and cheese.
Serves 2

Kosher salt
1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
4 oz. fatty pancetta or guanciale, sliced
1/4 inch thick and cut into 11/2x1/2-inch
rectangles
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup diced red onion
2 large eggs, chilled
1/2 lb. imported dried spaghetti
1/2 cup lightly packed, freshly grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil

over high heat.
In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over
medium heat. Add the pancetta or guanciale and
1/2 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until
golden and beginning to crisp, about 5 minutes.
(If the meat is browning too quickly, reduce
the heat to medium low.) Add the onion and
continue to cook until it’s soft and golden and the
meat is crisp, about another 5 minutes.
carbonara tricks
Remove the pan from the heat and carefully
spoon off all but about 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add
1 Tbs. water to the pan and scrape any browned
bits from the bottom.
In a small bowl, beat the eggs until smooth and
set aside.
Cook the spaghetti in the boiling water according
to package directions until it’s just shy of al dente.
Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking water and drain the
spaghetti. Transfer the spaghetti to the skillet, set
it over medium heat, and toss with tongs to coat
the spaghetti with the fat and finish cooking to al Add enough pasta water to prevent
the bottom of the pan from becom-
dente, about 1 minute. If the pasta is too dry or
ing dry; the eggs will scramble in a
starts to stick to the bottom of the pan, add 1 or dry pan.
2 tsp. of the pasta water. You want the bottom of
the pan to be just barely wet. If the pan is too dry,
the eggs will scramble when you add them.
Remove the skillet from the heat and pour
the eggs over the pasta, tossing quickly and
continuously until the eggs thicken and turn to
the consistency of a thin custard, 30 seconds
to 1 minute. (Tossing constantly is important,
as it prevents the eggs from scrambling.) The
sauce should be smooth and creamy, and it
should cling to the pasta. Add a little more pasta
water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Stir in
the Parmigiano and season to taste with salt and Pour the eggs over the pasta and
pepper (you may not need additional salt, as keep tossing until the eggs thicken
into a custard-like consistency.
both guanciale and pancetta can be very salty).
Serve immediately.

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 89

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 plum coffee cake with brown sugar
and cardamom streusel
Serve this cake drizzled with a little heavy For the Cake
cream or crème fraîche. The cake will keep for 1/4 lb. (1/2 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into
a day, covered, at room temperature; if you small pieces; more softened for the pan
keep it longer, the moisture from the plums 63/4 oz. (11/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose
will start to soften the streusel. flour; more for the pan
Yields one 8-inch-square cake; 2 large eggs
serves 8 or 9 1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup packed dark or light brown sugar
For the streusel
1/4 cup whole milk
21/4 oz. (1/2 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
11/2 tsp. baking powder
1/8 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. table salt
Pinch (about 1/16 tsp.) of ground cardamom
1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
11/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted; more
as needed 3 firm-ripe medium plums, each pitted
and quartered

Make the streusel

Put the flour, sugar, salt, and cardamom in a
small bowl and stir with a fork until thoroughly
combined. Drizzle the melted butter over
the mixture and stir with the fork until the
mixture resembles a clumpy dough. Using
your fingers, break the mixture into pistachio-
size clumps and large crumbs. (If the streusel
is sandy and won’t clump, add a little more
melted butter, 1 tsp. at a time.) Refrigerate the
streusel while you prepare the cake batter.
Make the cake
Position a rack in the center of the oven and
heat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter and
flour an 8x8x2-inch straight-sided cake pan.
Beat the eggs lightly in a small bowl. Whisk in
the granulated sugar, brown sugar, milk, and
vanilla until well blended. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder,
table salt, and cardamom until well blended.
Add the butter pieces and cut them into the
flour with a pastry blender until the mixture
resembles a very coarse meal strewn with
pieces of butter the size of small peas and oat
flakes. Add the egg mixture to the flour. With
a wooden spoon, fold and stir until you have a
thick batter speckled with visible lumps of
butter, 45 seconds to 1 minute.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and
spread it evenly. Break up the streusel mixture
with your fingers and sprinkle half of it evenly
over the batter. Arrange the plum quarters skin
side down on the batter, with each piece at a
45-degree angle to the sides of the pan. Sprinkle
the remaining streusel evenly over the cake.
Bake for 20 minutes and then rotate the pan.
Continue baking until the top of the cake is
golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the
center comes out with a few moist crumbs
clinging to it, another 15 to 20 minutes. Let
the cake cool in its pan on a rack for at least
an hour before cutting. Serve warm or at
room temperature.

FCSIP48_Midnight_Final.indd 91 12/22/10 3:58 PM

 cover recipe
chocolate french toast sandwiches
Decadent enough to be dessert,
this twist on French toast is
popular any time of day.
Serves 4
4 slices white sandwich bread
(like Pepperidge Farm
sandwich bread), fresh or
slightly stale
11/2 to 2 oz. good-quality
semisweet chocolate
(preferably from a thin bar)
2 large eggs
2 Tbs. granulated sugar
1/2 cup half-and-half
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
Kosher salt
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
Confectioners’ sugar,
for dusting
Cut each piece of bread into
4 triangles by ­slicing diagonally.
Cut or break the chocolate into
8 pieces, roughly the same tri-
angle shape as the bread pieces
but slightly smaller by at least
1/4 inch all the way around.
In a medium bowl, vigorously
whisk the eggs and sugar until
well combined. Add the half-
and-half, vanilla, and 1/4 tsp. salt
and whisk until combined. Put
FCSIP48_Midnight_Final.indd 93
the bread pieces in the bowl and
press down gently to make sure
they’re all soaked.
In a medium nonstick skil-
let, heat 1 Tbs. of the butter
over medium heat. When the
butter is melted and ­sizzling,
add half of the bread pieces in
one layer, leaving a little space
between each. Cook until nicely
browned, about 2 minutes. Turn
each piece over with a spatula
and cook until the other side is
nicely browned, 11/2 to 2 minutes.
Transfer the bread pieces to
a plate lined with paper towels
and take the skillet off the heat.
Put a triangle of chocolate on
half of the bread pieces, and
top each with another piece of
bread (save the best-looking
pieces for the tops). Let them
sit while you return the pan to
the heat, melt the remaining
1 Tbs. ­butter, cook the remain-
ing bread, and fill it with the
remaining chocolate. When
all the sandwiches are made,
arrange 2, overlapping slightly,
on each of 4 plates. Sprinkle the
con­fec­tioners’ sugar generously
over all and serve warm.
f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 93
12/22/10 4:00 PM
 Deep-Fried Bacon and Eggs with Lemon and Egg Vinaigrette, p. 104

FCSIP48_SpecialOccasions_final.indd 94 12/22/10 4:03 PM

 special occasions

mushroom-fontina tart
Puff pastry’s light and airy texture combined
with dense, earthy mushroom slices makes
this a standout breakfast addition.
Serves 8
For the mushroom sauté
1 Tbs. olive oil
1 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 lb. mixed fresh mushrooms (try 4 oz.
shiitake and 6 oz. each cremini and white
mushrooms), washed, trimmed, and
sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 cloves garlic, minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Chopped fresh herbs, such as thyme, sage,
and chives (optional)

For the tart

1 sheet frozen puff pastry
Flour, for dusting
1 egg, beaten
13/4 oz. (1/2 cup) finely grated Fontina

sauté the mushrooms

Heat the oil and butter in a 12-inch sauté pan
or skillet over medium heat until the butter
foams. Add the mushrooms and garlic. The
mushrooms will quickly absorb all the fat
in the pan. Sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt and stir
until the mushrooms start to release their
moisture and begin to shrink, 2 to 3 minutes.
Increase the heat to medium high so that
you hear a steady sizzle; stir occasionally. In
about 5 minutes, when the liquid evaporates
and the mushrooms start to brown, give just
an occasional sweep with the spoon (about
once a minute) to let the mushrooms brown
nicely, cooking them another 2 to 4 minutes.
Resist the inclination to stir too often. Turn off
the heat and toss in the parsley and pepper
to taste, adding more salt if needed. Add the
other herbs if using and set aside to cool.
Make the tart
Meanwhile, thaw the puff pastry at room
temperature until pliable, 30 to 45 minutes. all of it). Bake until the pastry begins to puff
Position a rack in the center of the oven and the surface feels dry, about 5 minutes.
and heat the oven to 425°F. Lightly dust a Scatter the mushroom sauté onto the
work surface with flour. Unfold the pastry pastry, ­leaving an inch or so of the ­border
sheet and roll it into a rectangle that’s about un­covered. Bake until the crust border is
10x15 inches and about 1/16 inch thick. Slide puffed and deeply golden brown, about
it onto a baking sheet lined with parchment. 10 minutes. Scatter the cheese over the
With the exception of about an inch border mushrooms and continue baking until
around the rec­tangle, prick the pastry all over the cheese melts, another 2 to 3 minutes.
with a fork. With a pastry brush, brush the Let cool briefly on a rack before slicing
beaten egg over the border (you won’t need and serving.

96 b r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1

FCSIP48_SpecialOccasions_final.indd 96 12/22/10 4:08 PM

 hollandaise sauce
Here’s the trick to making this
simple sauce: Whisk it over
simmering water so the egg yolks
cook gently and don’t curdle.
Yields about 11/2 cups
4 large egg yolks
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. Dijon mustard (optional)
6 oz. (12 Tbs.) unsalted butter,
melted
Pinch of cayenne or a few
drops
of hot pepper sauce
Kosher salt
Position a large heatproof bowl
over a pot of barely simmering
water, making sure the bottom of
the bowl doesn’t touch the water.
In the bowl, whisk the yolks,
lemon juice, and mustard (if
using) until well combined.
Gradually whisk in the butter in a
thin stream and keep whisking
until the sauce is thick enough for
the whisk to leave tracks that
hold for a couple of seconds, 1 to
2 minutes. If the sauce is too
thick, whisk in a few drops of hot
water to thin it. Whisk in the
cayenne or hot sauce and
season to taste with salt. Keep
the sauce warm in its bowl set
over the simmering water,
whisking occasionally, until ready
to use.
start slowly
When whisking in the melted
butter, start with a thin stream
and slowly add it, to keep the
sauce creamy.
FCSIP48_SpecialOccasions_final.indd 101
coconut meringues
These meringues can be made 1 day
ahead of time and stored in an airtight
con­tainer until ready to serve.
Yields about 12 pieces,
depending on size
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut flakes
3 large egg whites
6 Tbs. granulated sugar
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat the oven to 300°F. Spread
1/4 cup of the coconut flakes on a baking
sheet. Bake until golden, about 5 min-
utes. Lower oven to 200°F.
In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until
they form soft peaks. Slowly sprinkle in
the sugar while beating until the whites
are stiff and glossy. Fold in the vanilla and
the remaining ­untoasted coconut.
passionfruit and Use a pastry bag with a large tip to
citrus salad with pipe the meringue into shapes onto
an ungreased or parchment-lined
coconut meringues ­baking sheet. Sprinkle with the toasted
You can make this refreshing des- coconut and bake for 1 hour. Turn off
sert in minutes. Serve it with coconut the oven and let the meringues dry in
meringues for a festive touch. the oven until crisp, about 2 hours. Let
Serves 4 the meringues cool completely before
removing them from the sheet.
2 kiwis, peeled and sliced
2 ripe mangoes, peeled and sliced
2 blood oranges, peeled and sliced
1 ripe star fruit, sliced
1/8 fresh pineapple, sliced
get creative
Pipe the meringue into any shape
1/3 cup fresh orange juice
you wish, from kisses to logs.
2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. sugar, preferably superfine;
more to taste
4 passionfruit
Candied orange zest, for garnish
(optional)
Coconut meringues (recipe at right)
In a large bowl, combine the slices of
kiwi, mango, blood orange, star fruit,
and pineapple. In a small bowl, stir the
orange juice, lime juice, and sugar and
pour this mixture over the fruit. Split the
passionfruit and either spoon the pulp
and seeds over the sliced fruit, or strain
the pulp to ­remove the seeds and then
pour over the fruit. Garnish with candied
orange zest, if using. Serve with coconut
meringues.
f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 101
12/22/10 4:10 PM
test kitchen
technique
Fresh eggs are best for poaching
A properly poached egg, pp. 12, 76, and 104, will hold ­together and
be tender, not tough. One trick to poaching them? Use fresh eggs.
The thicker white of a fresh egg poaches beautifully without creat-
ing all that mess in the water.
technique
Coring pears
You’ll peel, core, and then dice
the pears for the Winter Fruit
Salad on p. 42. To core the pear,
first peel and cut it in half. Then,
use a melon baller to scoop out
the seeds and fibrous core.
112 b r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1
technique
Skinning hazelnuts
To skin the hazelnuts for the waffles
on p. 39, spread the nuts in a single
layer on a baking sheet and toast in a
375°F oven until the skins are mostly
split and the nuts are light golden
brown (the skins will look darker) and
fragrant, about 10 minutes. Don’t over-
toast or the nuts will become bitter.
Wrap the hot nuts in a clean dishtowel
and let them sit for 5 to 10 minutes.
Then vigorously rub the nuts against
themselves in the towel to remove
most of the skins. Try to get at least
half of the skins off. This may take a lot
of rubbing, so be persistent.
tip
How to scrape
seeds from a
vanilla bean
For the vanilla beans in the Apple
Brown-Butter Jalousie on p. 57,
hold the bean at one end and, using a
paring knife, split the bean lengthwise
in half (if only half a bean is called for,
cut the whole bean in half crosswise
before ­splitting just one of the halves).
Then slide the back of the knife down
the opened or cut end of the bean and
scrape out the seeds.
 nutrition

Calories Fat Protein Carb Total Sat Fat Mo no Poly Chol Sodium Fiber
Recipe (kcal) Cal (g) (g) Fat (g) (g) Fat (g) Fat (g) (mg) (Mg) (g)
(kcal)
breakfast basics, p. 10
Buttermilk Pancakes (per pancake) 110 30 3 16 3.5 1.5 1 0 30 170 0
Breakfast Drinks, p. 16
Masala Chai 50 15 1 8 1.5 1 0 0 5 20 0
Sparkling Pomegranate Cocktail (based on 6 servings) 130 0 0 12 0 0 0 0 0 5 0
Classic Strawberry-Banana Smoothie 110 5 2 25 0.5 0 0 0 0 20 3
Orange Slush (per cup) 180 25 4 35 2.5 1.5 1 0 10 40 0
Homemade Apple Cider 120 0 0 30 0 0 0 0 0 25 0
Real Hot Chocolate 420 270 8 36 30 18 9 1 60 105 3
Spicy Southwestern Bloody Mary (w/1 oz. vodka) 130 0 2 12 0 0 0 0 0 1160 2
Champagne Cocktail 60 0 0 8 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Strawberry Orange Vanilla Smoothie 270 30 7 54 3.5 0 0.5 2 0 10 2
Bread Basket, p. 24
Cranberry-Orange Muffins (per muffin) 270 90 5 39 11 6 3 0.5 60 250 1
Chocolate-Nut Zucchini Bread 430 180 8 56 21 10 4.5 4.5 85 310 2
Authentic Brioche (per 3-inch brioche) 270 120 6 29 14 8 4 1 115 380 1
Sour Cherry and Walnut Scones 370 150 5 49 17 8 3.5 4 30 200 2
Parsnip and Pecan Sour Cream Muffins (per muffin) 320 147 5 41 16 8 6 2 65 370 2
Fastest-Ever Cinnamon Buns (per bun) 300 120 5 40 13 4.5 6 2.5 15 290 2
Classic Water Bagels (per mini bagel) 100 10 3 18 1 0 0 0.5 0 390 1
Chocolate Chip Muffins 680 270 8 97 30 16 10 2.5 95 320 3
Herbed Buttermilk Biscuits (per 2-inch biscuit) 130 50 3 17 5 2 2 1 5 300 1
For a Crowd, p. 36
Hazelnut Waffles 290 140 8 30 16 2 8 4.5 75 380 1
Berry Compote (per 1/4 cup) 90 0 0 23 0 0 0 0 0 0 1
Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream (per 1 Tbs.) 20 20 0 1 2 1.5 0.5 0 5 0 0
Cabbage, Leek, and Bacon Tart 660 490 15 29 54 29 19 4 220 860 2
Streusel-Topped Ginger-Apple Coffee Cake 360 122 6 55 13 7 4 2 805 290 1
Winter Fruit Salad 140 0 1 32 0 0 0 0 0 0 4
Smoked Salmon, Goat Cheese, and Artichoke Quiche 590 400 16 33 44 27 12 2.5 230 740 3
Asparagus, Ham, and Mushroom Strata 500 240 32 34 27 15 8 1.5 315 1140 2
Apple, Sage, and Fennel Breakfast Sausage 310 200 21 6 22 7 10 4 75 350 1
Open-Faced Smoked Salmon and Avocado Sandwiches 440 190 20 44 21 3.5 14 3 15 1630 7
Leek and Morel Strata 320 130 18 29 14 6 4.5 1.5 335 630 2
Fresh Fig Tart with Orange Custard 310 160 4 38 18 11 5 1 75 200 4
On the Go, p. 48
Smoky Black Bean and Cheddar Burritos with Spinach 510 190 19 63 21 6 10 4 15 1020 9
French-Style Grilled Ham and Gruyère 390 210 22 21 24 12 8 2 95 940 1
Brandied Apricot-Almond Slab Pie 650 280 9 81 32 15 10 3.5 80 65 5
Oven-Toasted Ham, Brie, and Apple Sandwiches 580 180 25 72 20 12 6 0.5 70 1300 3
Watermelon, Tomato, and Feta Salad 190 150 5 8 16 6 9 1.5 25 470 1
Chinese Pork and Mushroom Wraps 330 120 14 36 14 2.5 7 3 70 730 4
Artichoke, Leek, and Taleggio Frittata 190 130 8 6 15 4 8 1.5 165 280 2
Apple Brown-Butter Jalousie 250 120 3 30 13 5 6 1 25 190 1
Ham and Cheese Croissants 380 210 10 33 23 14 6 1 80 600 1
Cherry Breakfast Focaccia 300 10 7 66 1 0 0 0.5 0 490 3
Trail Mix Bars 460 260 8 45 30 11 13 4 50 170 3
Individual Cinnamon Coffee Cakes w/Swirl (per coffee cake) 660 270 12 89 30 13 11 3 120 330 6

118 B rea k fast an y time 2 0 1 1

FCSIP48_Nutrition_v1.indd 118 12/22/10 4:26 PM

 Calories Fat Protein Carb Total Sat Fat Mo no Poly Chol Sodium Fiber
Recipe (kcal) Cal (g) (g) Fat (g) (g) Fat (g) Fat (g) (mg) (Mg) (g)
(kcal)
Quick Start, p. 62
Honey-Almond Granola (per 1/2 cup) 290 150 8 30 17 1.5 9 6 0 90 4
Crispy Sweet Pecan Granola 230 110 4 29 12 1 7 3.5 0 65 4
Prosciutto, Fontina, and Sun-Dried Tomato Quesadillas 150 60 8 13 7 3.5 2.5 0.5 25 490 1
Melons with Ginger Syrup 110 5 2 27 0.5 0 0 0 0 20 2
Baked Eggs with Chives and Cream 230 170 13 1 19 9 6 1.5 455 290 0
Candied Bacon (per slice) 70 25 2 9 2.5 1 1 0 5 150 0
Rich Chocolate Muffins 630 340 9 73 38 22 10 2 190 45 3
Broiled Grapefruit with Honey, Vanilla, and Cardamom 90 0 1 22 0 0 0 0 0 0 2
Cheese Omelet 310 220 21 1 24 12 8 2 470 370 0
Open-Faced Blueberry and Crème Fraîche Brioche Sandwiches 470 290 6 40 32 20 6 0.5 120 220 1
Creamy Coconut Oatmeal with Dried Peaches 550 320 11 54 36 22 7 4 0 90 9
Breakfast for Dinner, p.72
Parsnip Pancakes with Caramelized Onions and Sour Cream 320 170 5 34 19 6 11 1 70 620 6
Spanish Potato Tortilla 170 90 5 15 10 2 7 1 105 400 2
Pork and Potato Hash with Poached Eggs and Avocado 510 230 27 43 26 6 15 3 265 910 8
Creamy Fontina Polenta with Mushroom Ragù 240 120 9 21 14 6 6 1.5 30 550 2
Egg Foo Yung with Chicken and Shiitake 350 230 22 8 26 4 14 7 350 910 1
Pork Chops with Maple-Ginger Pan Sauce (using 2-oz. chops) 510 270 27 23 30 10 16 2 90 650 1
Tomato and Mozzarella Omelet 450 320 24 8 36 12 18 3 455 970 2
Braised Sausages with Balsamic-Glazed Onions and Grapes 530 380 23 15 42 13 22 5 65 1550 1
Steak and Eggs Rancheros 460 270 27 22 30 9 15 4 255 910 6
Pan-Fried Southwestern Hash 200 110 3 19 13 1 8 3.5 0 420 3
Breakfast at Midnight, p. 84
Sweet Potato and Chile Hash with a Fried Egg 430 300 9 28 33 6 16 10 225 970 4
Chocolate French Toast Sandwiches 270 140 7 27 16 9 4 1 135 290 2
Toasted Bread with Chocolate (1.5 oz. bread w/1 tsp. oil) 220 100 5 28 11 3.5 3.5 0 0 390 2
Pork, Sweet Potato, and Apple Sauté 610 320 35 38 36 13 18 2 125 430 5
Spaghetti alla Carbonara 810 310 34 89 34 10 15 4.5 255 1530 6
Rosemary Steak and Potatoes 880 430 75 32 48 24 17 2 255 740 3
Tuscan Poached Eggs 360 160 14 37 18 4 10 2 215 740 5
Plum Coffee Cake with Brown Sugar and Cardamom Streusel 350 140 5 48 16 10 4.5 1 85 240 1
Smoky Refried Bean Tostadas 640 320 20 62 36 8 17 9 35 1400 14
Mini Pizzas with Arugula, Peppers, and Prosciutto 140 45 6 16 5 1.5 2 0.5 10 360 2
Chocolate French Toast Sandwiches 270 140 7 27 16 9 4 1 135 290 2
Worth the Effort, p. 94
Mushroom-Fontina Tart 110 80 4 5 9 4 4 1 45 230 0
Chocolate-Filled Beignets 140 90 2 12 10 4 4 1 30 70 0
Spinach Crêpes with Goat Cheese and Herbs (per crêpe) 100 40 4 10 4.5 2.5 1 0.5 45 150 1
Shrimp and Asparagus with Cheddar Grits 510 220 44 29 25 14 7 2 355 920 1
Deep-Fried Bacon and Eggs with Lemon and Egg Vinaigrette 680 520 20 19 58 11 37 7 460 880 2
Walnut and Rum-Raisin Crêpes (per crêpe, 2Tbs. sauce) 240 120 4 26 14 6 4 3 45 130 1
Eggs Benedict 650 410 30 29 47 24 15 4 665 1450 2
Hollandaise Sauce (per 1/4 cup) 240 230 2 1 26 16 7 1.5 200 170 0
Passionfruit and Citrus Salad with Coconut Meringues 190 8 3 49 1 0 0.5 0.5 0 10 8
Corn Soufflé Puddings 260 180 7 17 20 11 6 1 160 390 2
Classic Tarte Tatin 510 250 4 63 28 17 7 1.5 105 310 2
Make it Fast, p. 122
Maple Butter (per 1 Tbs.) 90 50 0 10 6 4 2 0 15 15 0

The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingre­
dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients with­out specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is
used. When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified, the analysis is based on 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and 1/8 tsp. salt and 1/16 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.

f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m 119

FCSIP48_Nutrition_v1.indd 119 12/22/10 4:26 PM

 RECIPE INDEX
p. 67
Beverages
Champagne Cocktail ������������������23
Classic Strawberry-Banana
Smoothie ����������������������������������������20
Homemade Apple Cider �����������21
Masala Chai ����������������������������������� 18
Orange Slush ���������������������������������20
Real Hot Chocolate ���������������������21
Sparkling Pomegranate
Cocktail ������������������������������������������ 18
Spicy Southwestern
Bloody Mary ����������������������������������� 22
Sugar Syrup ����������������������������������� 18
Tangy Strawberry-Orange
Smoothie ����������������������������������������23
p. 34
120 B r e a k fa s t 2 0 1 1
fcSIP48_RecipeIndex_v3_TF.indd 120
Beef, Chicken, Pork
& Lamb
Apple, Sage, and Fennel
Breakfast Sausage�����������������������45
Braised Sausages with Balsamic-
Glazed Onions and Grapes������ 80
Candied Bacon�����������������������������66
Egg Foo Yung with Chicken and
Shiitake��������������������������������������������78
Pork and Potato Hash with
Poached Eggs and Avocado����76
Pork Chops with Maple-Ginger
Pan Sauce���������������������������������������79
Pork, Sweet Potato, and Apple
Saut������������������������������������������������88
Rosemary Steak and
Potatoes����������������������������������������� 90 p. 23
Steak and Eggs Rancheros��������82
Breads & Muffins
Authentic Brioche �����������������������28
Eggs Benedict����������������������������� 100
Cherry Breakfast Focaccia������ 60
Leek and Morel Strata���������������� 46
Chocolate Chip Muffins�������������34
Spaghetti alla Carbonara�����������89
Chocolate-Nut Zucchini
Spanish Potato Tortilla���������������75
Bread������������������������������������������������ 27
Steak and Eggs Rancheros��������82
Classic Water Bagels������������������� 32
Tomato and Mozzarella
Cranberry-Orange Muffins�������26
Omelet�������������������������������������������� 80
Ham and Cheese Croissants���58
Tuscan Poached Eggs���������������� 90
Herbed Buttermilk Biscuits �����35
Parsnip and Pecan Sour Cream Fish & Shellfish
Muffins���������������������������������������������30
Open-Faced Smoked Salmon
Rich Chocolate Muffins�������������� 67 and Avocado Sandwiches���������45
Sour Cherry and Walnut Shrimp and Asparagus with
Scones���������������������������������������������30 Cheddar Grits������������������������������102
Eggs & Pasta Oatmeal, Granola
Artichoke, Leek, and Taleggio
Frittata����������������������������������������������56 & Grains
Creamy Coconut Oatmeal with
Asparagus, Ham, and
Dried Peaches and Candied
Mushroom Strata�������������������������45
Coconut Pecans����������������������������71
Baked Eggs with Chives and
Creamy Fontina Polenta with
Cream�����������������������������������������������66
Mushroom Ragù���������������������������76
Cheese Omelet�����������������������������68
Crispy Sweet Pecan Granola����64
Deep-Fried Bacon and Eggs with
Honey-Almond Granola������������64
Lemon and Egg Vinaigrette��� 104
12/22/10 4:27 PM