Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 27, March 2002, pp. 72-76

Evaluation of comfort properties of polyester-viscose suiting fabrics

A Mukhopadhyay", I C Sharma & Mukesh Sharma

The Technological Institute of Textile & Sciences, Bhiwani 1 27 02 1 , India
Received 30 August 2000; revised received and accepted 31 January 2001

The comfort properties of polyester-viscose blended fabrics of two different structures (plain and twill) have been
studied. It is observed that with the change in polyester content, the total hand valUe (THV) of twill woven fabrics shows
different trend than that of plain woven fabrics. The thermal insulation and water-vapour resistance increase with the
increase in polyester content. It is found that the fabric having the best THV may not be comfortable in all aspects.

Keywords : Fabric comfort, Fabric handle, Fukurami, Koshi, Numeri, Thermal insulation, Total hand value, Water-vapour
resistance

1 Introduction blend proportions (40:60, 48:52, 65:35 and 75:25)

The term comfort is a nubulous one which defies
definition, but the sensation of comfort is easily
recognized by the person who experiences it. Many
attempts have been made to define the state in
physical terms. The clothing comfort is dependent
upon the low-stress mechanical, thermai and moisture
transfer properties of the fabrics. The general subject
of fabric sensory property influenced by low-stress
mechanical properties of the fabric is reviewed by
Bishop l . There is a general agreement that the
movement of water vapour and heat through a
garment is probably the most important factor in
4
clothing comfort2 . It has been suggested3 , that the
thickness is the single most important factor in
determining thermal resistance. The utJity of
moisture transfer properties on fabrics has also been
reported earliers.7 . Sreenivasan et al.8 analysed the
effect of polyester and cellulosic fibre contents on the
moisture transfer time of fabrics. A very few
information is available about the effect of blend on
fabric comfort. In the present work, the effect of blend
proportion on the comfort properties of polyester­
viscose blended suiting fabrics has been studied.
2 Materials and Methods
2.1 Materials
Polyester-viscose blended yarns of four different
3To whom all the correspondence should be addressed.
Phone : 293301 -02-03; Fax : 009 1 -0 1 8 1 -293653, 29 1 1 20;
were used for preparing plain and 212 twil l suiting
fabrics. The yarn linear density and twist per inch
were 2/1 6 tex and 1 7 .6 respectively. The ends and
picks per inch of plain fabrics were 60 and 52
respectively. Twill fabrics possess 76 ends/inch and
56 picks/inch. All the fabrics were heat-set on
Primatex stenter at 20 mlmin speed with 3 % overfeed
allowing 5. 1 % width-wise shrinkage at 1 80°C.
2.2 Methods
Low-stress mechanical properties of the fabrics
were examined using KES-F system. The mechanical
properties were compared on the basis of t-test at 95%
significance limit. Hand values and total hand value
were derived by the software using the following
conversion equations for winter suitings9 :
}6 X. - Xi
Y :::R C o + I Ci ---'-.'_-
i
:} Ui
where Y is the hand value; Xi, the ith characteristics
value or its logarithm; Xi and 0;, the mean value and
the standard deviation of the i th characteristics value;
Co , the constant; and Ci, the coefficient.
Table 1 shows the constants and coefficients of the
equations. The fol lowing equation was used for the
total hand values (THY)
THY=
3
Co + I [Cil ( Yi - M il )/ull + (C,2 (Y/ M i2 )/ U i2 ]
-

j:l
E-mail : arunangshu_recj @rediffmail .com
Present address : Department of Textile Engineering, Regional where Yi is the hand values of the i th primary hand;
Engineering College, Jalandhar 1 44 0 1 1 Mil and Mi2., the mean values of Yi and Y/
 MUKHOPADHYAY et al. : COMFORT PROPERTIES OF POLYESTER-VISCOSE SUITING FABRICS 73

Table 1 - Parameters of equations for translating mechanical values into hand values of
men's winter suiting fabric

Xi Oi Cj
X
Koshi Numeri Fukurami

0 5.7093 4.7533 4.9799

I LT 0.6082 0.06 1 1 -0.03 1 7 -0.0686 -0. 1 558
2 log WT 0.962 1 0. 1 270 -0. 1 345 0.0735 0.2241
3 RT 62. 1 894 4.4380 0.0676 -0. 1 6 1 9 -0.0897
4 10g B - 1 .0084 0. 1 267 0.8459 -0. 1658 -0.0337
5 log 2HB - 1 .3476 0 . 1 80 1 -0.2 1 04 0 . 1 083 0.0848
6 log G -0.0 143 0. 1 287 0.4268 -0.0263 0.0960
7 log 2HG 0.0807 0. 1 642 -0.0793 0.0667 -0.0538
8 log 2HG5 0.04094 0. 1 44 1 0.0625 -0.3702 -0.0657
9 LC 0.3703 0.0745 0.0073 -0. 1 703 -0.2042
10 log WC -0.7080 0. 1427 -0.646 0.5278 0.8845
11 RC 56.2709 8.7927 -0.004 1 0.0972 0. 1 879
12 MIU 0.2085 0.02 1 5 -0.0254 -0. 1 539 -0.0569
13 log MMD - 1 . 8 1 05 0. 1 233 0.0307 -0.9270 -0.5964
14 log SMD 0.6037 0.2063 0.0009 -0.303 1 -0. 1 702
15 log T -0. 1 272 0.0797 -0. 1 7 1 4 -0. 1 358 0.0837
16 log W 1 .4208 0.059 1 0.2232 -0.0122 -0. 1 8 1 0

Xi - the ilb characteristics value or its logarithm, X and Oi - the mean value and the standard
deviation of the ilb characteristic value, and Cj - coefficient.

Table 2 - Parameters of the HV-THV translation equations

Yi Ci l Ci2 Mil Mi2 Oil 0i2

I Koshi 0.6750 -0.5341 5.7093 33.9032 1 . 1434 1 2. 1 1 27

2 Numeri -0. 1 887 0.804 1 4.7537 25.0295 1 .5594 1 5.562 1
3 Fukurami 0.93 1 2 -0.7703 4.9798 26.9720 1 .4741 1 5 .2341

Yi - Hand value of the i1h primary hand. Ci l and Ci2 - coefficients. Mil and Mi2 - mean values of Yi and
Y/. and Oil and Oir standard deviations of Yi and Y/ respectively.

respectively; Oi, and 0i2, the standard deviations of Yi
and Y/ respectively; Co, the constant; and Ci/ and Ca,
the coefficients as shown in Table 2.
Thermal insulation was determined by using the
KES-FS (Thermolab - II). The dry contact method7
with an air velocity of 30 cm/s was used for the
measurement of thermal insulation. The modified
evaporation cup method7 was used to measure the
resistance of the fabric to water vapour.
3 Results and Discussion
3.1 Effect of Blend Proportion on Low-stress Mechanical
Properties of Fabric
3.1.1 Tensile Properties
Table 3 shows that the fabric extensibility (EM)
decreases with the increase in polyester content in
polyester-viscose blended fabrics. Fabric extensibility
is likely to be governed by the bending rigidity and
the contact area of the warp and weft yams 1 0. The
higher bending rigidity of polyester and more
compact structure of polyester-rich fabrics result in
the lower fabric extensibility. It is further observed
that the tensile energy (WC) decreases with the
increase in polyester content. This is due to the lower
extensibility of the polyester-rich fabrics. The
linearity of stress-strain curve (LT) does not show any
specific trend with the i ncrease in polyester content. It
is again observed that with the increase in polyester
content, the tensile resiliency (RC) increases. It may
be due to the higher resiliency of polyester fibre
compared to that of viscose fibre.
3.1.2 Bending Properties
Table 3 shows the effect of blend proportion on the
bending behaviour of polyester-viscose blended
fabrics. It is observed that with the increase in
polyester content the bending rigidity (B) increases. It
may be attributed to the higher flexural rigidity of
polyester fibre and the compact structure of polyester­
rich fabrics. The compact structure of the fabric
74 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., MARCH 2002

Table 3 - Effect of blend proportion on low-stress mechanical properties of polyester-viscose blended fabrics
Properties 2/2 Twill Plain
40P:60V 48P:52V 65P:35V 75P:25V 40P:60V 48P:52V 65P:35V 75P:25V
Tensile
EM,% 4.97 4.29 4.01 3.55 4.61 4.29 4.01 4.01
LT 0.67 0.68 0.65 0.69 0.7 1 0.72 0.75 0.75
WT, gf cmlcm2 8.42 7.45 6.7 1 5.76 8. 1 3 7.5 1 7.50 7.49
RT, % 43.63 47.49 49. 1 54.48 54.57 54.92 55. 1 0 56.9 1
Bending
B, gf cm2/cm 0.0701 0.0728 0.0775 0.09 1 7 0.0644 0.0679 0.0757 0.0933
2HB, gf cm/cm 0.0523 0.0562 0.0647 0.079 1 0.05 1 2 0.0547 0.0697 0.09 1 2
Shear
G, gf cm.deg 0.50 1 0.558 0.62 1 0.820 0.944 1 .096 1 .493 1 .929
2HG, gf/cm 0.940 0.990 1.18 1 .528 1 .630 1 .8 1 1 2.307 3.020
2HG5, gf/cm 2.0237 2.2295 2.8640 3 .9028 4.4467 4.9267 6.7057 8.4770
Compression
LC 0.306 0.301 0.303 0.268 0.309 0.285 0.308 0.28 1
WC, gf cmlcm 2 0. 1 54 0. 1 5 1 0. 1 46 0. 1 34 0. 1 62 0. 1 44 0. 1 4 1 0. 1 3 1
RC, % 75.05 76.73 79.29 82.76 68.06 70. 1 2 72.54 75.24
Surface
MIU 0.208 0.2048 0.2045 0.203 0.203 0. 1 96 0. 1 93 0. 1 89
MMD 0.01 0.009 0.0 1 2 0.0 1 1 0.0 1 9 0.D l 8 0.01 9 0.01 7
SMD, J..lm 2.98 2.92 2.58 2.50 7. 1 3 7.09 6.56 6.49
P - Polyester, V - Viscose

prevents the relative motion of the fibres during the
bending of the fabrics, resulting in the higher bending
rigiditi I. The hysteresis of bending (2HB) also
increases with the increase in polyester content, which
is also attributed to the compact structure of
polyester-rich fabrics.
3.1.3 Shear Properties
Table 3 shows the effect of blend proportion on the
shear behaviour of blended fabrics. It is observed that
the shear stiffness (G) increases with the increase in
polyester content. This may be attributed to the
compact structure of the fabric having higher polyester
content and the higher flexural rigidity of the polyester
fibre compared to that of viscose. Subramanium et al. 12
found that the contact between the threads greatly
affects the shear rigidity of the fabrics. The compact
structure results in greater contact area between the
threads which is responsible for the higher shear
rigidity of the fabric having higher polyester content.
The hysteresis of shear (2HG) also increases with the
increase in polyester content which is attributed to the
compact structure of fabric.
3.1.4 Compressional Properties
Table 3 shows the effect of blend proportion on the
compressional behaviour of polyester-viscose blended
fabrics. It is observed that the linearity of compression
(LC) curve does not show any specific trend with the
increase in polyester content. It is further observed that
with the increase in polyester content, the compres­
sional energy (WC) decreases. This may be attributed
to the smoother rod-like structure of polyester fibre.
When the fabric is compressed by compression ele­
ment, the warp and weft yarns tend to be flattened
which is governed by the fibre-to-fibre slippage. There­
fore, as the polyester content increases, the fibre-to­
fibre slippage during the compression also increases,
resulting in the lower value of compressional energy. It
is also observed that the compressional resiliency (RC)
increases with the increase in polyester content. This
may be attributed to the higher resiliency and lower
fibre-to-fibre friction of polyester compared to that of
viscose.
3.1.5 Surface Properties
Table 3 shows that the coefficient of friction (MIU)
decreases with the increase in polyester content,
which is attributed to the smoother surface of
polyester fibre compared to that of viscose fibre.
Mean deviation of coefficient of friction (MMD) does
not show any specific trend with the increase in
polyester content. It is further observed that the
 MUKHOPADHYAY et al. : COMFORT PROPERTIES OF POLYESTER-VISCOSE SUITING FABRICS 75

Table 4 - Effect of blend proportion on total hand value, thermal insulation and water-vapour resistance of
polyester-viscose blended fabrics
Structure Blend ratio Koshi Numeri Fukurami (fullness Total hand Thermal Relative water-
(polyester/viscose) (stiffness) (smoothness) and softness) value insulation, % vapour resistance
212 Twill 40:60 2.82 7.33 6.37 3.94 1 2.07 0.084
212 Twill 48:52 2.69 7.25 6.65 3.84 1 2.93 0.086
212 Twill 65:35 3.65 6.42 5.85 3.65 1 2.98 0.090
212 Twill 75:25 4.56 5.88 5.54 3.56 1 3 .79 0.098
Plain 40:60 3.76 3.74 4.49 2.45 1 0.7 1 0.086
Plain 48:52 4.23 3.47 4. 1 1 2.42 1 1 .6 1 0.087
Plain 65 :35 4.78 3. 1 0 4.07 2.44 1 2.93 0.090
Plain 75:25 5.69 2.99 4.05 2.58 1 5.52 0.099

geometrical roughness (SMD) decreases with the However, the change in THV is small with the change
increase in polyester content. in blend proportion.

3.2 Effect of Blend Proportion on Hand Values of Fabrics
3.2.1 Koshi (Stiffness)
Table 4 shows the effect of blend proportion on the
hand values of polyester-viscose blended fabrics. It is
observed that with the increase in polyester content,
the fabric Koshi value increases. This may be
attributed to the increase in bending rigidity, shear
rigidity and tensile resiliency, and decrease in tensile
energy and compressional energy9 .
3.2.2 Numeri (Smoothness)
Table 4 shows that with the increase in polyester
content, the fabric Numeri decreases. The mean
deviation of coefficint of friction (MMD) has the
dominant effect on Numeri value but, in the present
study, MMD does not show any significant change.
The decrease in Numeri value may be attributed to the
decrease in compressional energy and increase in
tensile resiliency, bending rigidity, shear rigidity and
hysteresis of shear9 .
3.2.3 Fukurami (Softness and Fullness)
Fukurami value decreases with the increase in
polyester content. This may be attributed to the
decrease in compressional energy and tensile energy,
and increase in bending rigidity, 2HG and 2HG5.
3.2.4 Total Hand Value (THV)
It is observed from Table 4 that in case of twill
woven suiting fabrics, the total hand value decreases
with the increase in polyester content. The 40:60
polyester-viscose blend shows the best THV. In case
of plain woven suiting fabrics, with the increase in
polyester content the total hand value does not show
any significant change initially but at 75 :25 polyester­
viscose blend ratio, THV shows the best value.
3.3 Effect of Blend Proportion on Thermal Insulation of Fabrics
It is observed from Table 4 that with the increase in
polyester content, the thermal insulation increases.
This may be attributed to the greater thickness of the
fabric having higher polyester content.
3.4 Effect of Blend Proportion on the Water-vapour Resistance
Table 4 shows that with the increase in polyester
content, the water-vapour resistance of fabric i ncreases.
This may be attributed to the compact structure of
polyester-rich fabrics7 and lower moisture regain of
polyester fibre compared to that of viscose fibre.
3.5 Comfort of Blended Fabrics
It is observed that the fabric having the best THV
may not possess higher thermal comfort. In twill
woven suitings, the best THV is shown by 40:60
polyester-viscose blend, but the fabric has minimum
thermal insulation. While in case of plain woven
fabrics, the best THV is shown by 75 :25 polyester­
viscose blend but the fabric from the above blend
possesses the minimum value of water-vapour
transfer.
4 Conclusions
4.1 Koshi value increases with the increase in poly­
ester content in the fabric but Numeri and Fukurami
values decrease with the increase in polyester content.
4.2 In 212 twill woven suiting fabrics, the total hand
value (THV) decreases with the increase in polyester
content while in plain woven fabrics the THV does
not show any significant change initially with the
increase in polyester content but at 75 :25 polyester­
viscose blend ratio it shows the best value. However,
the change in THV is small with the change in blend.
76 INDIAN 1. FIBRE TEXT. RES., MARCH 2002
4.3 Thermal insulation and water-vapour resistance
increase with the increase in polyester content.
4.4 It is observed that the fabric having the best THY
value may not be comfortable in all aspects.
References
I Bishop D P, Text Prog, 26 (3)( 1 996) 1 .
2 Slater K, Text Prog, 9 (4)( 1 977) 1 .
3 Marsh M C, J Text Inst, 22( 193 1 )T 245.
4 Rees W H, J Text Inst, 32( 1 94 1 )T l 49.
5 Hatch K L, Barker R, Woo S S, Radhakrishnaiah P, Markee
N L & Maback H I, Text Res J, 60( 1 990)405.
6 Yoon H N & Buckley A, Text Res J, 54( 1 984)289.
7 Behera B K, Ishtiaque S M & Chand S, J Text Inst,
88( 1 997)255.
8 Sreenivasan S, Patel G S, Nachane R P, Chidambereswaran P
K & Patil N B, lndian J Text Res, 1 5 ( 1 990) 1 24.
9 Kawabata S, The Standardisation and Analysis of Hand
Evaluation, 2nd edn, edited by S Kawabata (The Textile Ma­
chinery Society of Japan, Japan), 1 980.
10 Matsudaira M & Kawabata S, J Text Inst, 79(1988)490.
I I Nhan G Ly, Proceedings, Third Japan-Australia Symposium
on Objective Measurement : Application to Product Design
and Process Control, edited by S Kwabata, R Postle and M
Niwa (The Textile Machinery Society of Japan, Japan),
1 985,48 1 .
12 Subramaniam V , Sivakumar M , Srinivasan V & Sasikala M,
Text Res J, 60(1 990) 368.