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 ( 77 )

on theGulf of Arta,madetn 1830. Commu-

V.-Ohservations
nicatedby Lieut, JamesWolfe,R.N. Read, 24th Dec. 1832.
THE Gulf of Arta (the ancientAmbraciusSinus*) is an inlet of
the Ionian sea, boundedby the provincesof Epirus and Acar-
nania. Its extremelelltth, w}lichlies E. atldW.) is abouttwenty-
five miles, and breadthaboutten miles.
The entranceis narrow.Betweena bastionof the wallsof Pre-
vesaandthe oppositelow point on whichstands fort La Punta,
it is only sevenhundredyardsacross; outsideof this is a bar com-
posedof gravel,coarsesancl,alld sea-weed,llot havingmore than
fifteenfeet watel on it ill the shoalestpartof the channel. The
northernshole has an elevatiollof about sixtyfeet, is tolerably
level and coveredwith olive woods,vvhileto the southwardthe
lalldwould appear,fromits barrenness,tiatness,and the surampy
and salillenatuleof its soil, to have been gained froln the sea;
thoughwe find from Polybius, that at the time of Philip, the
breadthof the entrancewasonly five stadia,or halfa mile, which
is stilltheaveragedistallcehetweentlle tz;o shores,notwithstanding
the two pointsbeforemelltioned mayapproachsomehat nearer.
rl'heentrancelies about N.N.E.; thell,turllillgabruptlyrollnd
a low pointXon whichis a small redoubtof earth,it colltilluesin
a soutl<-easterly directionof greaterwidthforaboutfourmiles; this
nlaybe terinedthe Bay of Prevesil. BetweenCapesLa Scaraand
lVladonna, hich are high alldforma solt of secondentranceto
tlle gulf, the vidth decreasesto olle mile and a half,alld thenex-
p:nds illtO a large basin,svhosegelleral featuresare tllese the
southerlland easterllslloresare l;liz,hand bold; the llorthernlow
and xwampy,with large lakes ollly separatedfiom tlle tlllf by
1larlovvribbonsof sanct,occasionallydippingbelonvtlle surface,
alldnot risint,to moretllarlone and a halfor tvo feet abon7e.
On the norlhernshore of the entranceis situated the modern
tOWIl Of Prevesa,irrebularly builtin tlle Turkishstyle. Towards
the lanclit is defendedby a wall and ditch,the numerouswing,ed
lions of St. Malkollthe fornzerbespeakingthemto be of Velletian
constructioll. Towardsthe harbotlrit is open to tlle beacl-l;but
;thin the walls are two forts,St. Georgeand Nuovo, the latter
comnzanding the apploachtromthe gtllf, the forluerfromthe seaX
Tisis is againfLIrther defendedby allotherstrong fortbuilt by Ali
Pasha, called Pantokratera, situated on an outer point about a
quarterof a milefromthe towll. These, with'olt la Puntaallfltlle
redoubtbeforementionefl, collstituteall tlle defexlcesof theplace.
* [In regard to the ancient names itl this paper, it is neces?art to lemalk, that
all, llot eveIl excepting Ambracia (probablythe least doubtful of them), have lseeII
and still are, contested. They are only to lle considered, tllerefole, as indicatisIg
the opinioll of the *vriteron shese questions iIl ancierltgeography.]
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78 Observations
onthe GulSf
of Arta.
Prevesais governedby a Bey under the Pashalikof Yanina;
andcotitainsaboutsix or seventhousandinhabitants,of whomthe
greaterpartare Greeks the Turkishportiotlcolisistingprincipally
of the tnilitaryand civil servantsof the government. There are
no mallufactures, and the few small shops scatteredthiough the
town prove the paucityof trade. The townis abundantlysup-
plied with water by springs, and pc)ssessesevery requisitefbr
emergillt,fiom its presentmiserablecolidition. 'l'he market is
but ilididerently suppliedwith segetablesor fiuit the vicinityof
Prevesabeingdevotedto the cultivationof the olive,^thichis the
pricipal produceof the country,thotlghvalollia,btillocks,fie-
wocxclandoccasionallycorn, finda marketat the Iollianislalids.
It is not a little amusingto observethe incongrilousmistule of
the moderilandantiquein Prevesa: fratnents of Ronianarchi-
travesfbrmthe cornerstollesandprincipalsupportof smallhcouses,
while balcollies owe theil uncertainstationto fiail colonnafles,
wherebases,shafts,andcapitalsof all orclersaffordedby the ruins
of Nicopolis,are throutnto,:,ether in thimsical col-lfusion
There is but one mosque itl the tO\Vll adornedwith a similar
coloniladeto tilatabovedescribed,andone GreekchurchSa rem-
nantof the Venetians. The dial of a clock still remailisorl the
steeple althoughthe worksandhandshan7e long sincedisappeared.
1'he Europeancolisulsfor Albaniagellerallyresideat Prevesa.
About lialf a mile beyorldPrevesa is a stilall extuarycalled
Vathee,a nameit has obtainedfromthe depthof water,qualifying
it adulirablyfol a dockyard. On itS llorthernshoresare some
substalitialthou^,hnot extensiveRomall ruins,apparentlycoeval
alid probablyconnectedith Nicopolis. The massesare in too
confuseda state,ancitoo muchovergrownwith weedsalldshrubs,
to defineallyparticallar form of building,though,fromtheirsoli-
dity, theyvere doubtlessof a public nature.They are now called
Margaroni.
From thisthe shoretakes a directionto the S.S.E., the betich
being at firstlow with claycliSs; andit is remarkable that almost
everyvalleyhas a lake of salt wraterin it. The districtnaxneis
Skaffidakki;it is well cultivated,and the soil abundantlyfertileX
irrigatedwith numerouslittle streams. Towardsthe termination
of thistongue,wherea doliblepeak mountrises to the height of
one hulidredandfiftyfeet, the shoreis abruptandrocky; but,on
againascelidingto the northward, it soonchaligesits natureto clay
cliffs,at the footof whichrutisa narrowbeacholl whichale agates
androundedpebblesof jasper andquartz. These cliSs are from
fifteellto twentyfeet ill height; andat the footof onenearthe con-
rent of the Holy Apostles,I observeda thin stratilmof slatycoal
just showingitself abovethe beach. lt did not possessthe lustre
of ourcoal; but}thoughdifficultof ignition,it burntwell andI was
 on theGulfof Arta.
Observations 79

informedby GeneralPisa, comnlandant of Vonitza,that the

mountains of Acarlianiaprodilcecoalandsulphurin abundance.
In Ilianyplacesalso the rocksindicatethe presenceof copper.
The two Greekconventsof ElolyTrinityand the Holy Apostles,
oll this coast, are the only buildingsfol miles; they are the resort
of the Greeksfiom all partsof the gulf on their1lumerotls festas,
andare supposedto be rich; of which, however,theymakeno
sllow,fearfulof the graspint,handof Ottomanpower.
Passint, these ^e come to the low flat coastwhich,with tvvo
ol three exceptions,presailsalong all the 1lortherll shores of the
gulf. At the beadof this bioht which,fronlits proximityto the
rllin.s,I havetermedNicopolisBay-,is the Lake WIazoma, abouta
mile long andhalfa mile wide, separatedollly by a verynarrow
ribbon of salld from the gulf7 ancl of which,if we supposethis
lake once to havebeen a portionof it, the distanceacro3sto the
sea would be herelittle nlore tllan a milen of tlle Acro-
the m7alls

polis being also waslledby it. At this spot we saw a partyof

Siciliansfishinofor sardinias,wllich theysalteddown in barrels
fromtheir nets. 'Itheyappearedto be sery successfall,alldwere
under the protectionof the Gleek gunboats,for vhich theypaid
a titheof the produceof theirlabour. They visit the gulf annually
in largesperonalosfor thisptlrpose.
The terminatiorl of a lowrangeof hills,stretchingeastsvard across
to the sea, now givesa little elevationto the coastline for abouta
mileanda half, ^hen we arriveat themouthof the riverLtlro (the
arlcientCharadra,)whichis aboutsixtgfeet wide. Althoughob-
structedby shallowvtTater, yet vesselsdrawingten to twelsFefeet
watermayellter,andfromthe uniformity of its breadthanddepth
it is more navigable,alld deservesto be rankedhigherthan the
Arta. At the entrallCe, its eastern bank affordsaboutoIle hun-
dredsquarefeet of terrGlJ?rma occupiedby a Greekgllard; but
the vvesternbankis defined only by rushes,alldfor two miles tlp
the riverI collld onlv find two places to efFecta landing. The
velocityof the streamwas about two miles an hour. I crossed
the Luro at a ferryaboutsesrenmiles11igherup, which is on the
roadfromPrevesato Arta,whereit is as broad,deep,andrapidas
at the entratlce. Tvzoorthreemilesabovethis it dividesinto two
streams,one colningfromthe northward,the other froma more
easterlvdirection,alldpassingthe ruinsof the ancientCharadrum,
whereits widthis only fortyfeet, alld the velocityof the current
tllree miles an hour. This branchis nonvcalled Hippolytoss
thollghit evidentlyis the maillbranch,alldcomparingthe ancient
nameof the riverwith the fortressabovementioned staaldingon its
ballks,was certainlyalwaysconsideredso. It appearsto take its
rise to the eastwardof A1avroVouno,(or BlackAlountain,)a very
remarkable three-peakedmountainof a-boutlSfteenhundredfeet
 80 01iservations
ontheGutfof iIrta.
in heiDht,whose solllbrealld barrenaspect sallctiollsthe name
,iven to it. l'his is the hiU,hestof a ran^,erunningnearlyE. and
\v. the wholelent,th of the gulf, abouteit,htor nine miles from
its shores, at the base of whichlie the rich and fertile p5AillS of
Arta.
Returnintto the coast,ve find fromthe Luro an irregularline
of low sandyshore,firstto the S.E., thelleasterlyto Salahora,ill-
closillgthe largelake Chukaleo. Salahorais a rockyelevationof
abouttwohundredfeet, relllarkable forits isolatedpositionon these
halt-formedsllores. It is a rl'llrkishpost, with a ^,tlardof fifty
Albaniansoldiers; thele are also sorne small pieces of cannon,
but I cannotventllreto say the place is fortified,as theyappear
thele moreby challcethandesign; the summitof the hill,however,
admitsof bein;,rendereda stronghold. A custom-houseis esta-
blished here, as this is the lille most preferredfor the convey-
ance of passent,elsalld IIlerchalldise to Arta, whence it is distant
only threehotlrsaalda half by a good road. FrornPresesaeven
it is more commollto elubarkfor Salahorastllallmakethe whole
journeyby land.
A vervnarrowribboll of three miles connectsSalaho;razith
anothersilllilar elevatiolllyitig to the E.S.E., whele is a GreelE
post and village containillt two hundredsouls, of wllom folty
are soldiers; tlle l est consi3t of Greek fishermelland their
families. It is the ollly place oll the shores of the gulf, \\7ith
the exception of Prevesa ol Vonitza, vvheresupplies call be
obtained. The summitis crouned by a Venetiancollvent,now
convertedilltO a Greek charch. I observedsevelal fragmentsof
sculptuledmarl)le,but tlle illhabitalltswereigllorsllltof the n-eans
of theirbeint,there,alld I couldnot discov-erally l'UillS of hi^,her
antiqllitytllantheVelletialls. Hele anclat Salahoraa commandint,
view is obtainedof the extellsivelalveslying at the foot of these
enlillellces; they are vely shallowalldintexspersed ssithnumerous
swalnpyislallds. Vuvala,alld the smallislandslyillgto thesouth
ward(whichale all hioh), appearlmoreproperlyto be exclusively
meantby the nalneKolakoNissi (or CrowIslands) andthe fact
of the spot vhere stanclstile villagebeillgillcluded in the sanle
appellatioll,wouldarguethat it fornlerlydid llot evell possessthe
smallclaimwhichit now has to belont,to the llsain-land,and I
need ollly referto tlle chart to shosvthe probabilityof tlleir all
becomint,ullited. They are illclosedin a shoul of one to two
fathomsextendillgfromthe sllore and two of them are aIready
conllectedby a bal k, over^hicll the seaolllyrzasllesill stront,sea-
blee2es. The islallelof Vuvalaitselfis thtlsfolmedof fourislets,
collnectedby strips of sanclinclosillga lake; and to the lal^,e
elevationwhere the village stallds tselosilllilarislets llave bee
added,also luclosillga lake. All tllexeelevatiolssare of soft sand-
 Observations
ontheGtcyofArta. Sl

stone, presentill^,cliffsof fifteen to thi-tyfeet in height,in whicll

are veinsof decolllposedjasper,and thoseon themain-landof red
marl,diflerillt,in formationfrornSalahora,which is of limestone
and quartz.
1'he samelow shoreat,ainobtainsbeyondKorakoNissi, trend-
ing to the N.E. but now perhapsless firmthan to the uestward,
till we come to the old nzouthof the riverArta, now calledPalea
Buca. Long flats of stiff blackmud andweedsrenderthe coast
o longer definable,nor to be approachedeven in a canoe. A
sandyspit stretchesout to thesouthward, at theextremityof which
patches of rushes appearlike islands, and roundingthese, we
arriveat the plesentmouthof the Arta, the ancientAracthus,so
obstructedby swalupsand shoalsas scarcelyto be accessibleeven
to boats; but on crossingthis barwe findsixteen or seventee
feet, and rarelyless thanten ill tbe channel,for a distanceof six
milesup theriver. At the elltralsce,its widthis aboutsixtyaards,
but soon becomesmuch more narronv;the banks are alternately
cliffyandloyv,as the tortuosityof the rivershootsoff the velocity
of the current,thLls,

.
Havinepast the sandyflatsat the mouth,tlle banksexhibita rich
alluvium,but fromtllethinnessof populationtheyare 1lotwellcul-
tivated. The corllwhichwe toulldstandingwas full-eared,luxu-
riant,andfit forcuttingat the lattererldof J une; at sArta,indeed,
the harvesthad alreadycommenced. Aboutsix nlilesup the river,
thou,h onlyone anda halfin a directline,a quarterof a milefrom
the easternballk lies the villageof Kumano,collsistill^,of about
eiohtyhuts, veryprettilysituatedamongfruittrees,withits vicinity
well cultivated. lwhecurrentwas runllillgabout olle mile anda
half an hour; tlle banks,whichare about ten feet high, arecom-
pletelyhonecombed by the swallows,who build their nests in
theln. WIulberry trees, both red and white, and the liquorice
plant,areveryabundallt.
Three mileshigherup, but on the xvesterllbank, is the village
of Neo Chori(or new village),on a more dialintltivescale than
Kumano. The riverherebecomesshallow not havingmole than
five feet in the deepest part,andgreatlyobstructedb) shoals. It
takesavery circuitousdirectionto the N.E., but returnsto the
village of Pachi Kalamo, also oll the westernbank, and lying
abouttwo miles to the northward of Neo Chori. Here the liver
is not above twentytiardsaCIOSS, inclosedbetweellballks fifteen
feet in ileightXalldonlynaviC,alule
for canoes.
8@ on theGulfof Arta.
Obsersation.s
lIence we took horse to the city of Arta, distant about five
miles, by a road occasionallyleadingus near the river, which
appearedcut up by small islands. We crossedseveraltributary
streams,servingto turnmills,waterbeillg preferredfor this pllr-
pose to vind. Except in tlle imn3ediate vicinityof villates, we
saw but little cllltivation,andthe greaterpart of the vast plains
of Arta appearsdevotedto pasture. Large herds of sheep and
cattle mayfrequentlybe met vvith,amongwhicharealso bufialoes,
vvhichareeatenas well as bullocks.
For the last half hour previousto reachingArta, our roadlay
over a beautifulcountry, througha delightfulavenueof wild
shrubs,amon^,st whicllthe myrtleandjessamineprevailed,whose
aromaticfragrancerenderedthe calm freshnessof a summer's
eveningstill moreenchanting.
At Artathe bed of the riveris abouttwo hundredyardsacross;
the stream,however,at this season,was dividedby sandbanks into
smallrivulets,shallowbut rapid,runningat least four milesan
hour. Abovethe town it appearscomparatively diminutise,and
five or six miles abovethe townis lost among the hills. Cramer
gives its sourcein the rangeof Pindus, thirtymilesto the north-
ward, a distancewhich is not varrantedby its appearance,nor
by the illformation I obtailledat the city. The bridge over the
riverat Artais of sillgularconstruction -itis, I believe,Verletian.
'rhe celltrearchhas a spall of about eit,hty feet, oll either side
of whichare threesmalleronesof not morethanthirtyfeet span,
and betweenthese again there are narrowelongatedarches. In-
steadof the bridgebeingone unifornlcurve,it is formedof three
obtuseangles,one in the centreandone on eachside, thus,

S
makingthe passageacross both difficultanddangerous,whilea
low parapetof about two feet affordsbut little securityfrom
a fall of at least one hundredfeet into the streambelow.
Here, oll the easternbankof the river,is situatedthe townof
Arta,the ancientAmbracia. It is distalltseven miles from the
shores of the gulf, to which it now, as formerly,gives naule.
'lraces of the allcientwallsmaybe seen in manyplaces,but more
particularly wheretheyformtlle base of part of the uall of the
presentcastle or citadel,close to the lvanksof the river. They
diXerfromallyotherruinsof the gulf; the stones being regular
oblollgquadrangular blocks,witha smooth surface,placed hori-
zontally,andso verycloselyfitted,thatit is with difficultya pen-
knifecould be anywhereinserted,though no mortaror cement
appearsto havebeen used in the cvnstruction. The style, I be?
 2

Obsersations
ontheGutfof Arta 83

lieve, is knownas the Hellenic. At Melos there are extensive

ruinsof this nature. The size of the stonesis immense; 1 mea-
sured olle eighteenfeet by five, and the greaternumbernearly
approachedthesedimetlsions. These wallsmaybe traceda con-
siderabledistance,apparentlyinclosingthe elevatedgroulldto the
eastwardof thetown. There areno otherlemainsof coevaldate,
eithertemple,theatre,or otherbuilding.
The next objectworthyof noticeis the ruin of a conventbuilt
by tlle EnlpressTheodosia,about the year845 of the Christian
era. The architecture is of the Lower En)pire; it i.ssubdivided
into numerouscells, and perforatedwith smallwindowsin the
Gothic style. The wallsare alternatelayersof stones for about
two feet, thelithe small flat red Romanbrickfor about six feet.
It now affordsfree lodging for the caravansof horsesbringing
merchalldiseandtheir drivers. There is also a large Greekca-
thedral,builtafterthe samestyle, but of a moremoderndate, and
of an octagonalform. .Duringthe late war,it wasconvertedinto
a fortressby the Albanians,who, by blockingup the windowst
renderedit a positionverytenablealldstrong.
Like othertowns of this devotedcountry,Arta has suffered
greatlyfromtherecentdreadfulstruggle. In manyplacesmasses
of ruinsentirelyimpedethe passageof the streets,and an aspect
of desolationandmiserynowhan,,soverthislarbeandonce popu-
lous and flourishingcits. It is difficultto judge of its present
population,as fromthe disturbedstate of the country,alld the
constalltdemandfortroopsby thePasha,it mustfluctuategreatly;
add to which, the majorityof tlle inhabitantsare both soldiers
and citizens (the formel perhaps by prefelence), and ale ays
sufficientlystimulateclbv the hopesof plunderto ent,age in any
quarrel,foreignor domestic. The contelldingfactionsill Albania
had tlzenwithdrawn to Yanina(the scene of strife)nearlyall but
the peaceful Greeli artizans,leavinc,only about five hundred
troopsto garrisonthe castle. The populationof Arta mayhow-
everbe statedat seventhousanslas a maximum.
Arta,iike Prevesa,is goverlledby a Bey underthe Pashalikof
Yanina; andas the entrepAtbetween this place alldthe gulf, it
derivessome commercialbenefit. There are manufactures in it
of coarse COttOllS and woollens; the floccatas(or capotes) are
consideredthe best, andthe leather,thoughof an inferiordescrip-
tion, is verystrong: the stench arisingfiom the tan-yardsalong
the riveris intolerable. Embroideryis broughtto greatperfec-
tion, andall articlesof dressfrom Arta are highlyprized. The
northernpartof the towll aroundthe castleis inhabitedsolelyby
Turks, who hase a nationalcustom,arisingfrorxs jealousyof their
women, of excludingall Franksfromthe quarterset apart for
themselves. Each trade has its separatestreet or bazaar,but
sA Obserratzons
on the Gulfof Arta.
lJlltchersare obli,,edto kill alldsell theil meatoutsidethe town.
The lzarketis abundalltly suppliedwithfruitand vegetables.
There can be no doubt thatArta occupies the site of the an-
cient Atnbracia,but the pOSitiOIl of Ambracushas not beenclearly
settled,andsometravellershaveendeavoured to overcomethe dif
iicultyby confoundingit with Ansbracia. Polybius,describing
it as a fortressof collsiderablestrength,distinctlysays, Philipwas
desirouss first to gain Ambracus,andthenceto makehis attacks
UpOIl Ambracia.' 1t was situatedin a marsh, for Philip had to
raisecauseways,therehaving beell previouslyonlyone by which
the place could be approached. Near the western shore of
the old ulouthof the Arta are 60me ruins,whose topographical
situationwill accordwiththe abovedescription,beillgoll a swalllpy
island,in a marshylake near the gulf, whoselshores howeverI
could not approachill a boat, by leasoll of the shallownessof
the urater. 1 got no 1learerthanhalf a mile, whenceI couldper-
ceize the urallstolerablyperfect,to the heiglltof twent-five or
thiltyfeet. 'l'heyinclosedall areaof abouta quarterof a mileirl
extellt, alldappearedto be merelya militarypost, s-hichwas all
the sszTampv natureof the groundwould adnlit of. Sc-lax says
Ambracia vvaseight miles (eighty stadia) fronl the sea,' and
observes,' it hada fbrt close to the shore, anda mostbeautiful
' harbour.' This is fully identitiedwith the localityulederconsi-
deratioll,andthoughScylaxdoesnot mentionthis brt as Ambra
cus, urehasteeveryreasonto believeit to be the same,defendint,
the elltrallceto theriver,alluldistantfromthecitysix miles. These
remainshaveno othermodernnamethanPaleo Kastro,whichis a
sort of gelleric term for all ruinsfronltuenty to two thousand
yearsatltiquity,meallingsimplyold castle.
Four Illileseast of the mouthof theArta,we arriveat the N.E.
angleof the gulf, vvhereterminatesthe low swampyland; and,
turnillgsuddelllyto tlle southward,the coast becomesrockyand
hit,h,risingabruptlyto the Makronororidge,an elevationof four
htllldredandfiftyto fivehundredfeet. At the 1lorthemextremity
of this ridge,overlookillgthe plaills of Arta, are solne walls of
(:yclopeanmasollry,inclosingan extensivearea. They are now
calledPalea Kulia,andwereoccupiedby a strongbodyof Greek
troops,who alreadyconsideredthis spot as the frontierof their
coulltry. The ascellt fromtlle plains is steep and rugged,and
herecommencea series of militarypasses as far as Karavasara,
solnmandingthe high road fromAlballia to Gleece, whichleads
over this ridt,e.
This characterof coastobtainsalongtheeasternshore,nittl the
e.sceptiollof a portioncalled MountArmyros,which appearsto
havebeell originallyisolated,andis now only connectedwith the
mainby swansps; ofi it the wateris shoalfbr a qlarterof a mile
 on the Gtttfof Artsz.
Ob.servaticrns 83

Passillg this we enterthe bay of S:aravasara, which is abouttwo

lalilesdeep; bothshoresarehigh, andon the easternside mavbe
seen the rtlins of Olp e exactly as described by Thucydides,
situatedon an eminenceOtl the sea-shore,twenty-tivestadia(tuo
niles anda half) fromArgos. I did not visit the spot, but ill
passingcouldplainlydiscernportionsof the ^alls.
About a mile to the N.E. of Olpx, acrossthe vallevof Ar-
gatha,aresomeextensiveruins,probablythe to^n of MetropolisX
merelymeltionedby Thucydides. 1 did not YiSit theseremains,
but they aredescribedby a companionas beingCyclopdean, but
not so extensiveor perfectas thoseof Art,os.
At the bottomof Karavasara bay, arethe ruins of Argos Am-
philochictlm,built after the Trojan m?ar.They are veryexten-
sive, andsituatedon a steep acclivity,the top of shicll appearsto
have been occupied by tEletoun, encircledby walls, tangellted
by two othersdescendingthe hill, and meetingat an ant,lewithin
a fesvfeet of the sea; tileyare (,f Cclopean masonrv,and the
stones generallyverylarge. rl'}-lere al^eno tracesof any public
buildings,anclthe 02llyobject to be noticeflis a spot pointedout
by ourguide,wherethe reverberation of a stonethrouzn, or a per-
sonjumping,maybe heardbelow, as overa sheetof water^zitha
thincrustot ice alldan extensivevacuumbeneath.
Ali Pashaendeavouredto establisha moderntownon the site
of Argos,the ruilssof which,vitll those of ancient date, are cu-
riouslyblended. the compelled familiesto locate, but on his
deathtlleyall returnedto their1lativeplaces; nor is it to be
uTon-

deredat consideringthe uninvitingpositionof their llew settle-

ment,whoseotllyadvantageis its strellgthas a militarypost, the
roadwindingbetween its walls and the sea-shore,and passing
througha deepravineto the westvard. 'rhis is commandedby
the tOwll,vvhichis inaccessibleon this side.
Ali Pashahad eluployedhis troopsin excavatingamong the
r(zins,but withoutsuccess; havinglleardof the good fortuneof a
tversonat Ithaca,he hopedto obtain either from the virttlosoor
the Jew wheresvithal to recompensehim.
Karavasara, whichis the modernnameof a custoul-hcouse anda
few hutsnearthe ruins,is at presentonlyoccllpiedby a captaill's
,llard, the mainbodyof Greek troopsbeing, as I before men-
tioned,at Palea Kulia,clistantelevenmiles. Livy gives tlle dis-
tancebetweenArgosandAmbraciaolle hndred alldeightsstaflia
(eighteenmiles),whichis verycorrect.
'rhe summitof the hill on shich Argos is situated is about
threehundredandfiftyfeet hi^,h,z7henceto the .southward Irsaybe
discoveredan inlandlake of considerable size; but llo river{illds
its waythrowlgh the valleyintothe gulf,waterat Karavasara belg
obtainedfrolnwells. To the easts!ald the landrisesabrll)tls to
6 Observations
on the Guyof Arta.
a rangeof fifteenhundredfeetin height,(IyingaboutN.N.E. and
5.S.W. true,)on which are the two peaks of Idomenee. The
countryhereis coveredwith forestsof oak,whichyieldthe valonia,
an acornusedin d-eing, andan articleof considerable traic. On
the lower hills, betweenthe massesof limestonerock,grows a
thick underwoodof briers,relievedho^7vever by the beautyalld
fragranceof the myrtle,whichis veryabundantand luxuriantall
overthe gulf.
Fromthe bayof Karavasara, uthichis the S.E. extremityof
the gulf, the shore runs in an irregularline to the westward,
formingsmallbays;at thebottomof one calledPalipaiis the little
lalld-lockedportof Loutraki,celebratedby Lord Byron for the
beautyof its scenery.
Howbrownthefoliageof the greenhills'grove,
Noddingat midnightoXerthe calmbay'srest,
As windscomelightlywhispering fromthe lYESt,
Kissing,not ruffling,the bluedeep'sserene.
In the bayof Ruga, next to the former,we discoveredthe ruins
of Cyclopeallwalls,which most probablyare those of Limnwa,
where,accordingto Polybius(v. 5.), Philipdiselnbarked his troops
afterthe siege of Ambracus. They are situatedon a smallplain,
abouthalf a mile in extellt,which theyinclose,borderillgclosely
to the southuZard on the shoresof a lake; andfromthis probably
tlle towntases its name. Towardthe sea I could not trace any
remainsof the walls,norallyrllinswithin the area,whichwasflat
as a meadow,and overorownwith long grass. The walls are
fifteenfeet in thickness,but do not in anyplace rise higher than
eight feet, andare thusso hiddenamongtrees as easilyto escape
the eye. Tlley werea matterof wonderto ourpilot,who, though
an old fishermanin the t,ulf,was not awareof theirexistence.
Coastingalont,a shoregeuerallysteep and rocky,and passing
Point Viatava,we enter the bay of Vonitza,which is free from
dangers,alldtheanchoragegood; a mileoffthetownthereis twelve
to fourteenfathoms,vvitha muddybottom, shoaling gradually
to the shore. From Cape Madonnato Point Viatava is two
miles anda quarter,andthe depth is one mile andthl-ee-quarters.
At the bottomof this bay lies the townof VonitzaJbacked by a
rich and well-cultivatedvalley,betweenMollntsAmutheroand
Ouranissi. At presentthe tOWIl consistsonlyof a few ill-built
huts alongthe sea-shore,at the foot of a smallisolatedhill, about
three handredfeet in height,whosefoot is washedby the sea to
the northwal-d, alld to the south-Xs7estward
by a lagoon, a mile in
extent, capableof receivingmsticoes, or gunboats,but having
too little waterfor vesselsof burden.
On this hill standsthe citadel,originallyof Venetianconstrtlc-
tion, andtlle ravagesof time andwarhave beell but imperfectly
 on the Gulf of Arta.
Ohservations 87

repairedby theirsuccessors,the TurksandGreeks; though,with-

out any pretensions to regularityor science,it mayhavebeen con-
sideredstrong, while yet heavy batteringtrains were unknown.
The planof its constructionhas been to inclosethe summitof the
hill with two concentricwalls in the formof an ellipse,each end
of whichis againstrengthened by a bastion, and the hill, which is
steep andlugged,is bisectedN. and S., by a wall from the sea
on oneside, to the lake on the other. Its apex is crownedby a
church, now more appropriatelyused as a guardhousefor the
troopson dutyin the fort,wherealso excellentbarrackshavebeen
erectedby the Greeks. This stationcommandsthe entireviewof
the entranceandapproachto the gulf. The citadelpossessesthe
greatadvantageof an abulldantsupplyof goodwater,fromsprings
at andnearthe summitof the hill, and althoughit may be com-
mandedby artillery,it is onlyfromheightsverydifficultof access,
andnot nearerthan two miles. The best pointof attackis from
the N.W., oll the southernshores of the little port San Marco,
whenceit was assailedby the GreeksunelerGeneralChurch,but
it was fromstarsationonly that the Turkswereobliged to yield,
the Greeks havingpossessionof the surroundingCOUtltly, and
theirgunboatsridingtriumphant on the watersof the gulf.
The plain of Vonitza, which is the only arableland of any
extent011 this side the gulf, is about two nliles itl breadth,and
rllnsbackto a rangeof well-Mtooded hills,at u!hosefootthescellery
is so beautifulas to have obtainedfor it the name of Paradise.
IIere a streanl takes its rise, which,windinground the base of
Mount Ouranissi,runsthroughthe townof Vo)litzainto the sea,
and is at all timessuflicientfor the supplyof a muchlarterpopu-
latiollthanit now boasts of, as well as all vesselsnavibatingthe
gulf. During the willter,when swelled by tributarystreams,it
is of cotl.siderablesize, and runswith greatrapidity,so as only to
be fordableat few places. The banks are lined with oriental
plane-trees,whoserichand umbrageousfoliage,whileit servesto
nlaintaillthe refreshingtemperatureof the stream,formsa cool
and picturesqueretreatfromthe scorchingraysof a summer'ssun.
Othersmall streamsirrigatethis valley,vvllichis capableof high
irnprovernent, butthe uncertailltenllreof AcarnaniabytheGreeks
causes a reluctanceto risk labourand capital either in town or
country.
Vonitzaitself, when we visited it, was in ruins; scarcely a

housewas habitable; eYen the authoritiespreferred smdll tempo-

raryhuts of strawto glovelling among the ruins of what never
wasa superbtown,andwherethe poorerclassesnowfinda retreat.
GeneralPiss, an Italian by birth,but a cosmopoliteby circum-
stances, commandedthe districtand fort, but he was gellerally
absentat Missolont,hi. He, of courseswas a great advocatefor
$8 Observafions
on fAeCulf of A r{G1.
the gulf as a fiontierX
to be continuedacross to Zeitouni,which
admittedof the best defence flom nortklerninvasion. rI7he^zI-sole
populationdoes not exceedthreethousand,of whomeighthundred
are military. 'Theirdress has bee most absurdlychangedfrom
the picturesqueAlbanianto a clurnsyimitationof the Frankuni-
ibrn. rl'hevhaveno rtlanufactures, and but little comtnelce,ex-
cept theirnlarketsupplies.
Abouta mile fiom the coast, on the easternside of the plain,
is a squaremoundabouteigllty feet in heigllt,sith a flat surface,
beazingeveryappearanceof being artificial,but on examinationI
couldnot discoveranylargestonesor othertracesof ancient re-
mains.
The little port San Rlarco,in the bay of Vonitza,has capabi-
lities for a dockyard,as the wateris so deep thatlargeshipsmight
lie close to the shore. At theheadof thisportis a narlowistllmus,
nearlyinsulatingthetongueof landterminatedby Cape A1adonna,
whichformsthe westernshoreof VonitzaBay. This tonguehas
an elevationof abouttwo hundredand fiftyket, andis probably
the site of the temple of the ActianApollo, speakingof which
Strabo sas, (book vii. chap.8.) ' On enteringthis gulf, we
s find to the right the Acarllanians,a Grecianpeople, and the
' templeof Apollo. This teInpleis situatednearthe entrance,on
' a hill, at tlle foot of whichare a sacredgroveand docks svhere
' Augustuskeptten of the vesselstakenfiom the enemy,fromone
' rovvof oars to ten.' And agaill (boot x. chap.3.) he says,
' Leavingtheopeningof theAmbracianGlf we find,first,a place
' belongangto the Acarnanialls;it is thatwhich is calledActillm,
' anfl this name is commonas well to the templeof the ActiaEl
' FApollo as to the cape ^s7hicil
marksthe opetlingof the gulf, and
' formsa port^vithin.' No tlaces of the ruins of Actiumhavint,
et been discovered,its positionis a subject of uncertainty;
but I cannothelp ditierinffl decidedlyfrom thosewho wouldplace
it on the low land oppositePrevesa. For althollt,hStrabosas
it wasnear the entrance,aet the fact of its havin^,stood on an
eminence,in my opinionentilelyplecluclesthe possibilityof its
havingbeen sittlatedon Pointla I'unta, wllerethe land,for some
distancefromthe shore,is so low and swanlpythatit is unfit for
habitatioll,andcontinuesveryflatforthreeniles to the sotlthwald
beforeit beginsto rise.
Westvtardof the plonzontorywllichbearsthe districtnanle of
Azio, the hills and cliffscontinuefor about a mile close to tbe
shore,beforethe lowlandbranchesoff; and I amnotpreparedto
deny thatActium mi^,hthave stood at the bottom of the bay of
Prevesa, which howeverappearsnot alwavsto ha&ebeen consi-
deredpartof tlle gtllf,Sc.yla^s (listinctlvcallingit the l)ayof Auac-
tcfrllz
m.
 ontheGulfof Arta.
Observations 9

Of the pOSitiOIl of this lattertOWIl (Anactorillm)we areequally

uncertain. We learnfrom Strabothat ' at fortystadiafrom the
' temple(ofActium) is Anactoriulll,situatedonthe gulf.' (Book
x. chap. 3.) Then in the secondchapterof the same book he
sayss-' As to the townsof the two countriesof thoseof the Acar-
' naniansthe first is Anactorium,whichis inclosedin a peninsula
' not far fromActium,andservesas an entrepAtof commerceto
' Nicopolis.' This latter remarkfavours its having stood on
Point La Punta, xvhichwill also agreewith the distanceof four
miles(tbrtystadia) betweenit andour assumedposition of Ac-
tium. Pouqueville,11ovever, hastakenit in tlleoppositedirection,
andsupposesVollitza to occupy the site of Allactorium. The
peninsularpositiongixrenit by Strabomay be accountedfor by
the Indelltationof fJort llemata} sllpposingthe bottom of the
bay of Prevesanot to have been so nouchSilledup as at presellt.
Herealso must have been the peninsulaof Diosctriuln, across
wbichPhilip llad his vesselscarriedfiom Leucas.
The rllinson Point La Punta are ltlt small,andappearto be
of veraT moderndate.
\Vestwardof Vollitzatllere is now no habitation,except an
occasionalsolitaryhut, andthe land, wherehi^,h,is so overgromtn
with thick underwoodas to be almostimpassable.
FromLa Pullta the coasttrends southward,continuin^,low to
Port Demata,whichis all excellentharbourfor smallvessels,and
oll its southernshore rises MountTeki, roundwhose base flows
the narrowchanllelthatinsulatesSantaMaura.
Tllree milesto tlle northrardof Presesa on a low isthlllus se-
paralillt,tlle sea fromthe gulf, lie the ruillsof the Romantown
of Alicopolis,toundeclby Augustus in honourof tlle victoryof
Actium,alsoutthiltyyeals beire tlle Cllristianwla. The plain
is boundedto the nolthwardby a low rall^,eof hills, at the foot of
ohich stalldsthe greattheatre,the rnostconspicuousobject of the
lalins: it is ill a tolerablygood stateof preservation, some of the
higllestarchesat the backof the btlildint,still standing; the fiont
leas principallysuffered. rl'hereale three ,ralld elltrallcedoors
allda smallerone on each sidew probal)lyleadil^,to the cellsof the
zild beasts. l'lle lent,tllof the areais one hulldredalldfollrteen
fEet,thei-seight is nillety-seven
of the bvlildint, feet, but, beingbuilt
oll a steep ascellt, the batk partis only thirtyfeet. There are
twenty-sevenrowsof seatsin threedivisions,whichhaveeachtlleir
separateentreesby two doorwaysnot imncediately overeachother.
The buildingis of a semicircularf6}m; the directionof the frolt
about N.W. ma^,netic, andwith the eXceptiollof the anglesbeilog
of stolle,it is (X11 of a red brick lart,erthanthose gellerallyused.
The area andseatswele overgrownX ith shlubs,wzreeds, alld long
p;rass.'lthe StllCCO ill the archm nysis so exceedingly11slrd, tll;ll (1
9o Observations
on the Gulf of Arta.
penknifewill scarcelymarkit. I couldnot discoveranyinscrip-
tion eitheron this or anyotherof these ruins,nor did they ever
boastof mucharchitectural ornament.
About a quarterof a mile to the westward,so muchovergrown
with verdureas almostto escapenotice,I observesla perfectellip-
tical buildingaboutfive hundredfeet in length,andone hundred
and fiftybroad. It did not appear to be above fifteen feet in
height,thoughof course it is difficultto judge whatthe level of
the groundoriginallyuas. Therewererowsof seatslike a theatre,
but the whole of the interiorwasso concealedin rankvegetation
as to rendermillutedescriptionimpossible. It lies in the same
directionas the frontof the amphitheatre, andhas an entranceby
threedoorsat its westernextreme. It appearsto be a gymllasium,
andis mostprobablywherethe Actiangameswerecelebrated.
These two buildingsare separatedfrom the chiefbodyof the
ruins,whichareabouthalfa mileto the southward, andconsistfirst
of allirregularpentagollalinclosure,thewallsof whichareof stone,
with squaretowersat intervalsnotabovetwellty-fivefeet in height.
The extentof the inclosure,whichappearsto havebeen the Acro-
polis, is abouta qtlarterof a mile) and the eastern angle of the
wall reachesto the shoresof Lake Mazoma.
Three hundredyardswestwardare the remainsof a verypretty
theatrebllt little (lilapidated;it is small,the diameternotexceed-
ing sixtyfeet, and built entirelyof stone; an inclinedplanein the
rearof thebuildintleadsto the upperseatsunderan archway.The
lowerpartof the wallis constructedof arches,leavinga promenade
uIlderneath, and within this again is anotherarchedpassage,so
thatthe seatsof the theatreare upondescendingarches.
Between this and the shore is a temple; it is a quadrangular
buildingof brick,with an areaof fiftyfeet by thirty. A singula-
rity in its constructionis the doublewallsw-itha passageof three
feet betweenthemall roulldthe bllilding. There wereniches in
the walls for statues,but I did not see anycolumns. At the
westernentrancearetwo roulldtowersresemblingMartellotowers,
but not so high. The aqueductterulinateshere, which,takinga
northerlydirectionalongthe sea-shore,nzaybe tracedbeyond the
firstrangeof hills, and is perfectin a valleyon the roadto Kama-
rina,abouttwelvemilesdistant. At Nicopolis it is in so ruinous
a state, thatonly in one placearetwo archesto be seen together.
Not even a villagenow occupies the site of a city which Au-
gustus fondlyhopedwouldbe a lastingmemorialof his exploits,
and for whoseaggrandisement he despoiledso manyof the neigh-
bouringtowns. Having fallen into decay,it was restoredby the
EmperorJuliall; but reasonsfor locating are so differentils mo-
derntimes from what theywere, thatwe find few of the sites of
ancient towns now occupied by modernones. Wicopolisnow
 Observations
on the Gulfof Arta. 9l

only aff8ordsan asylumfor a few shepherdswhose flocks graze

amongitS rUinS.
To the northwardof Nicopolis the lalld risesto a sharpridge
about fifteen hundredfeetin height,whichis crownedby a wall
of Cyclopeanmasonryrunningalong it for three or four miles,
andappearillgmorelike thebollndaryof a districtthana town. At
the westernextreme,which descendsabruptlyto the coast, there
is a bastionone hundredand fiftyfeet in length and eightyin
breadth,which descends abruptlyby a rugged path to the sea-
shore. E;romthis spot a fine viewis obtainedof ttle IonianSea,
withthe islands of CorfA,Anti-Paxo,Paxo, and Santa Maura,
andthe mountainous andpicturesquecountryof Suli to the north-
Yvard;whileimmediately beneath,in the calmsleepof naturalde-
cay,lie theperfectruinsof an ancientcity, abouttwo hundredfeet
below the summit of the ridge. About the centre of the town
in a little ravinestands the theatre; the radius is about eighty
feet, describingonly a thirdof a circle. Theresvereforty-eight
rowsof seats; and asthesoil is notfavourable to vegetablegrowth,
it is morefreefromweedsthanruinsare generallyfound. In the
arealay a portionof rockweighingabout forty tons, whichtime
or some other convulsion,haddislodgedfromthe cliff above,alld
which,in its descent,has destroyedthe wall andseats; at another
place the externalwall sustaineda similarpiece, thoughof snlaller
dimensions.The entrancedoors,the steps, the walls,ill shortthe
wholebuiklingis in excellelltpreservation:butin a still betterstate
did we {ind a bath about two hundredyardsto the S.W. of the
theatre. A doorwayhad been cleared,andwe enteredan arched
passagetwentyfeet longandfivewide,whichled to the bathitself,
aboutninefeet squareand twelvehigh, with an archedtop. A
smallsquarehole hadbeen originallyleft forthe admissionof light
and air, but as this was closed by the externalincreaseof soil,
one of the upper stones in the roof had beenremovedfor the
abovementioned purposes. The stuccowas hard as stone,fresh
and uncoloured;the sole ornamentwas a sort of squarepanelling
with a neat mouldingabove andbelow; the wholewas light and
elegant. The stonesusedin its construction wereof largedinlen-
sions,the arch of the doorwayinto the bathwas of one piece.
Both passageandbathwerepartlyfilledtith li^,htrubbish,but an
hour'slabourwouldrestorethe wholenearlyto its origillalstate.
This bathstoodnearone of the gatesof the town,whichwasso
small and narrowthatit wouldscarcelyadmit the passage of a
horseman. It was remarkablefrom being formedof only two
stones placed uprightand meeting in the centre,each of them
forminghalfthearcb,thus:

ILj
92 Observations of alrta.
on{heG;u1f
The wallsare about twelve feet thick,ill ffloodpreservation,alld
the directionof manybuildint,smaybe traced,one of whichwe
imaginedto be a temple,whereseveralpiecesof columnof com-
monlimestoneprotrudedthrotlgllthe soil. 'these ruillsaretermed
by the nativesPu-ul, but I xvillnot ventureto assignan ancient
nanleto them, not beillg ableto discoveranydescriptionthatwill
accordnith their remarkableposition. Tlle inhabitallts areonly
awareof one visit made to the ruins, about ten yearssince, by
two Englishmen,who excavatedsollaetombs betvveenthisandthe
.villageof Katnarina, whichlies abouta mile fromthe ruinslomer
don the mountain,whereany travellermayexperiencethe hospi-
tality of an Albanianchief, surroundedby his feudal retainers.
-Thisvillageis butone dayfromPrevesa,alldthe ruins,whichare
not generallyknownto exist, are well worththe attentionof tra-
a little leisure tiIne. The ViCillity
vellers11avin^, of the village is
well cultivated,but tlle ve^,etationwas at least a fortnightbehind.
The nameofthe mountairl is Zalullga,and the districtextendinc,
towardsNicopolisis termedLalnari. SVefounda sensiblediXer-
ence of temperat(lre, the thermometerstanding8? or 10? lower
thanin the plains.
At Kamarinawe saw a piece of ornanlentedmarble on which
mightbe faintlytracedpartof a Romaninscription;it wasbrought
from KastroSikia, a village near the sea, vvherewe were told
mit,ht be seen otherremainsof antiquity. rlhis place, or in the
Vicitlity,was most probablythe Portus Coularusdescribedby
Strabo,for off PapalakaPoint thereis the appearanceof an an-
cient mole. The otherportmentioneflby Straboas beillg more
commodious,and situatedtvelve stadiafromSicopolis, is doubt-
less the preselltvillageof Mitika,andthe nanleof GomarosBay,
givento thein(lentation betweenMitikaand KastroSikia,appears
to be a corruptionof the ancientnameComartls.
Sevenmilesto the westwardof Arta,on the roadto Prenesa,is
the hamletof ImaumChiaus; and about halfa mile to the N. Ar

of this, crossingthe Hippolytos,are the ruinsof Charadrum, now

knovsnby the name of Rogous. They are very conspicuouslv
situatedon a hill aboutonehundMred andeightyfeet hit,h;a wall,in
nlanyplacesstill twelveor fourteenfeet high, surloundsthe base
of the hill, which is so overgrowllwith thick underwood,thatit
vould be impossibleto ascendit, but forthe zealof devoteeswhose
piousfeet haveworna pathwayto the modernGreekchapelwhich
now sanctifiesits sumlnit. Rathermorethanhalt:wayup, another
wall maybe tracecl,andthe top is again encircledby a heteroge-
neousmassof wallsof the Grecian,Roman,andFrankeras. The
foundations are of rudeCyclopeanmasonry. The chapelbefore-
mentionedis adornedwith fragmentsof ancient architecture;
capitalsconverte(tilltO bases,atldvicevers; and-pOl tiOllS of tile
 on the Gulf of Arta.
Observations (93

elltablatureforlnthe steps to the door. Whence these came I

canllotsay, a.s Charadrum was only a militarypost, and we can
scalcelygive the Greeksof n+odern tinles the credit of conveaillg
theseremainsfrom Arta,the nearesttown,evell for religiouspur-
poses; probablythe place itself was formerlycrownedwith a
telnple. Polybitls mentionsPhilip passingthis place aftertlle
siege of Arnbracus. The countryalound Rogous is rich and
beautiful,andwellcoveredsvitholivetrees; the landrisesabruptly
to the northward to MavroVouno. There hadheen a blidge over
the river,but at the time of nly YiSitit was washedawaar,andwe
wereobligedto ferryourselvesover in a canoe, or tnonoxc)loll, as
theyare heretermed.
'rhe celebritywhichthis gulf formerlyenjoyedfor the quantity
andqualityof its fish, it still merits-the red andgreymullet are
IllOSt abundallt;therearealso plenty of soles and eels, and tbe
prawnsare the largestI eversaw. 'rhe saldiniafisheryI have
alreadynoticed. 'rhe Greeks,whose only rit,ht is their 1lautical
strength,usurpthe lordshipandmonopolyof a11the fisheries,and
theirdanis oftetldisplayelon the northernshoresof the ,ulf.
The {isheriesare constrllctedof reeds placedin the mud close
together,andextendingtwo hllndredyardsandupwardsfrom the
shore; they form a labyrinthterrninatingin a death-chamber,
whencethe fish are taken at pleasuresvitha halld-net. OrSthe
mouthsof the Arta and Louro,and wherethereare cotumunica-
tions with the lakes, the fisheriesare most extensive; theyare,
however,confilledentirelyto the northernshores.
The gulf is generallyconsideredunhealthy,mole especiallg
duringthe monthsof July, August, and September,when the na-
tivesarecarefulnot to exposethemselvesuncoveledill the morn-
ing to the easterly,or land wind,which,coming,of the swampy
shores,is verychilly,alld bringsmithit the marshmiasmata,pro-
ducingremittentfeversof a dan^,erous l ature.
Durin^,thetime of myvisit(June alldJuly), the lancland sea
breezes were always regular,and the latter blew fresh it set in
between 10 and 11 A.M. and invariablydied at sunset. The
range of the temperature was from76?to 89?duringthe day, and
from70?to 80?at night; the meantempelatureat noonwas 8?.
The gelleral characterof the hillson the Acarnaniallside is
round-topped andbarren,descendillggladuallyand undulatingto
the shores,which are generallyrocky and steep-to-but to the
northwardthe mountainsare higher,sharp-ridged, andthe descent
to the plains more precipitous,presentingitl manyplaces, more
especiallyZalungaand MavroVollno,stupendouscliSs.
The easternpoltionof the gulf is deepest; the mostwaterwe
fsulld was thirty-sixfathoms,and the bottomthroughoutis stiff,
blackmud,exceptil;,nearthe low, sandyshores.
94 on the Gulf of SrE.
Observatioras
Thereare two otherislandsnot yet noticed,one calledGaidura
nissi (Jackassisland), off Cape La Scara,is low androcky,alld
barren,presentingon its surfacemasses of limestoneincrusted
with gypsutll. The other,Kiefalo nissi (Head island) is of the
same natureas Korakonissi, about fifteenor eighteenfeet high,
of soft sandstolle,andcoveredwithverdure.
I havepurposelyavoidedenteringilltO the morale of the people,
as thele are alreadyso manyable descriptiollsof themalreadybe-
fore tlle public; sufficeit to say, thatthe majorityof theinhabit-
ants are Greeks,mallyAlbanians,and but few Osmanlees,who
are for the tnostpartgovernment officers. The modeof travel-
goods is by horses; the rateaveragingthree
ling andtrallsportitlg
miles anhour,13ywhichmediumtheyreckondistance,eight hours
being generallyconsideredas a day's journey. Iwhe country
aboundsin sllakes,manyof whichare venomous. Game, espe-
ciallvllaresand partridges,are plentiful. The olive amongtrees,
and the myrtleamongshrubs,are the most common. Thereis no
re^,ularityin the tides, the rise, fall, and velocitybeing entilely
dependenton the forceof the wind.

VI. Accounfof East FalklandIsland. Communicatedby

WoodbineParish,Esq., F.R.S. Read 14thJarl.1833.
tTHE claimsof GreatBritainto theFalklandIslandshavingbeen
latelyreneved, the followinSaccollntof the EasternIsle maynot
be uninteresting. It was drawnup for me duringmy late resi-
dence in South Americaby Mr. Vernet,whoformeda settlement
and residedthere for severalyears under an authorityfrom the
governmentof Buenos Ayres. Mr. Vernet'sestablishmentwas
at BerkeleySourld,adjoiningthe ruins of tllat formerlyplanted
at Port Louis by M. Bourgainville. It will be recollectedthat
the British settlement.,which was forciblybroken up by the
Spaniardsil] 1770,andsubsequently restored,vta,sat Port Egmont,
on the WesternIsland.- W. P.]
situatedbothfor colonization,
East FalklandIslandis favouraluly
and for the refreshlnentof vesselsboundroundCapeHorn.* Its
proximityto the Cape, and its excellentharbours,mostof which
are of easy access, with good holding ground,and sufficient
depth of waterfor even first-ratemen-of-war,wouldalonemake
it a valuablepossession. Whilstthe facilitiesit affordsfor exer-
CiSilig ships' companiesashore,withoutthe risk of losing them,
together with the abulldanceof wild cattle and anti-scorbutic
herbsfoundthere,pointit out as a most desirableresortfor ships
* See also p. 105.
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 INDEX

ACESINES, 113, 141, 146. Banna, 6.

Actium, 88. Batclapis, 3l 1, 313.
Adelaide Island, 110. Bechuanas, 311.
Africa, Journal of Voyages along Beeas, 141, l45.
the Shores of, 197-223. Belooches, 136.
Afshars, 9, 10. Benin, 222.
A la Huela, 277. Berenzini,15.
Algoa Bay, 199, Bhawulpoor,143, 145.
Ali Baug, 5(). Biaut, Bellican, 30.
Ali Guz, 44. Bijoogas, 218.
Ali Khan, 24. Bir, 232.
Alore, 134. Bissuo, 218.
Altun Tukht, 30. Black Sea 36.
Alwar, 12. Bombay, Geographical Society of,
Amakosa, 311. V-Xi.
Ambracia, 84. Boogtees, 137.
Amritzir, 155. Boordees, 137.
Amoy, 301. Bosmitch River, 1.
Anactorium,89. Buggaur, 1 14, 116.
Andabile,27. Bukkur, 133.
Angosta River, 204. Bulama, 218.
Ani, 44. Bussorah, 232, 242.
Anna, 232, 236. Byram Abad, 14.
Antarctic Ocean recent Discoveries
in, 105-112. Calabar, 222.
Aoch, 147. Cameroons,221-223.
Ararat Mount, 3, 47. Cambojans,in Siam 295.
Aras, 25, 29, 45. Cape of Good Hope 198, 217.
Arctic Land Expedition, proposed Caribs of CentralAmerica?290.
route of, 64-71. Cartago, 278.
Argos Amphilochicum,85. Casamanza, supposedJunction of
Artaxata, 47. with the Gambia, 72-76.
Arta, Observations on the Gulf of, Caspian Sea, Journal of a Tour
77-94-River, 81 City, 82* along the Shores of, 1-58-Level
Assassins, residence of, at Menjile, of, 22.
14. Ceylon, 223-231.
Assyrian Kings, 50. Chaldean Christians,52.
Athabasca Lake, 69. Chandkoh,132.
Atropatana,5, 11. Chantibun,2(38.
Auk Daug Mountains, 13 Chenab, 113, 141, 146.
Australia, Sturl's Expeditions into CherakTihha, 7.
the Interiorof, 248-256. ChipewyanFort, 69.
Azerdbijan, Journal of a Tour Chusan Islands, 302
through, 1-58. Cochin, 268-70
Cochin-China,296.
Babylon, 240, 258. Congo, 220.
Badjillan, 20. Costa Rica, 2 77.
BalaroodRiver, 29. Cullt Zohak, 4.
Balcas Mountains, 7, 8. CumberlandHouse, 68.
 1 .1N13E x
.326
Curachee,1]6,121,l47.
CyclopeanMasonry,88-9l Hyderabat1,l 2 6 .
:Hyclrclotes,
148, 152.
Dalagos Bay, 200, 205.
, on the Civilization Indlls, substance of a
the Tribes occupying of 113-56 memoir on,
the High- mouths of, 114-22-
lands near, 310 Oelta, 122.
Damaras, 314. Inhambane,206.
Dana Chall, 24. Inyack Cape, 202.
Daoodpootras,143.
Darajee,114, 116. Jagatty, 5, 6, 7.
Dariel(Pylze Caspicae),38. JooaS117.
DeraGhazee Khan, 139 Jookeeas,124.
T)erbund, 10, 40 Juande I,isboa, 202.
Dioscurias,36. Jurruk,126.
DufehOaug Mollntains,17. Jut,124.
DundasRiver, 200. Juttooees,138.
-- Islands, 2 l 6.
Durram, 13. Kabenda, 220.
Kae-chow, 209.
Enderby's Land, 109. KaWers, 199.
Englishriver, 200. Kakal)ikka
Enzilli, Falis, 66.
18, 22. Kakuna, 139.
Euphrates, Reports on the Naviga- Kamanatekwoya
tion of, 231-43. River, 66.
Kan-chow, 303.
Eye
Dagemish, 9, 11 Kang-kau River, 298.
Falkland KaraButta, 10.
Island, iEast,94-9. - Dash, 9.
Fernando
Po, <221. - Galla, 11. -
i'omen,
18, 20. - Kulla, 46.
3foo-chow-fo,
302. Soo, 30, 46.
Formosa,
301. Karangoo, 4, (3,l 1.
Gambia,72-6. Karavasara, 84.
Ganja,
31. Kattia,
146
Ganzaca,6. Khalifa,
4.
Gariep
(Orange) River, 311. Khedywaree, 118.
Garra,
141 145. Khulkhal, 12, 21.
Shilan,
12 17. Khyrpoor, 134.
Giabar,
233. Kinchow(Southern), 209.
Giaour
Khulla, 9, 14. Kizil-Ouzan,4, 10, 12.
Gilla,
dialect of Persian, 14. Kofla
Kous Mountains,11, l3.
Gorah,
l l 8. Koorya
Moorya, 208.
Gouheka
(Sevan) Lake, 410. Korako
Nissi Islands, 80.
Graham's
Land, 110. Koree,
1l9.
Grenada,
277. Kulpia,
salt mines of, 45.
Guatimala, Sulla
Chik, l o.
278. Kullat,
13.
Halla
Bagan, 129. Kulliga,
l0.
Hainan,
299. Kulphurs,
137.
Herou,
21. Kur,
30, 32.
Hilla,
23;, ;5wl Kurds,
7.
Hit,
238. Kurichane,
31I.
Hollontontes,
200.
Hujamree,
117. Lahigan,
18, 20.
Huron
Lake. 65. Lahore,
l 13, 153.
Hydaspes,
14). Lakes,
observations on, 243-247
Seiches
of, 271.
 327
INDEXt
Langeroo(l, 19. Nicaragtla, T,ake,277.
Lankeran,25. Town, 277.
Lanskoum,35. Nicopolis, 78, 90.
Laos, in Siam, 294. Ning-po, 302.
Lar, 128. Nouhevah, 156-173.
IJarkhanu,129, 134.
Leon, 277. Ooch, 140, 142.
Le-to, 302. Orange River, 311.
Limnea, 86. Otaheite, 173-179.
Limon Port, 296. Ouriard,lead mines of, 9.
Lissar, 25.
Literhoo, .314.
I.oanclo,219. Palenque, ruins of, 60.
Lueput, 119. Panama, Isthmus of, 275.
Lukkee Mountailis, 131. Patta, 209.
Lylau, 5. Pattala (Tatta), 114.
Peer-i-bazaar,21.
Madagascar,203, 212, 214. Peguans in Siam, 293.
Madame St. Marie, 2(}2. Pei-ho, 304.
Mahmoodiah,50. Pemba, 209.
Mahavillaganga,223-231. Pemmican, preparationof, 66.
Mahoo, 48. Persian Gulf, Pearl Fisheries in,
Malarood, 24. 283-286.
ManatoulineIslands, 65. Peten, 59.
Manice, 200. Peter Botte Mountain, 99-104.
Ma-oh, 302. Phasis (Rion), 34, 37.
Mapoota, 200, 2(J2. Physico-Geograihical Essays, 243.
Marqviesas,156-173. Pietannee, 114.
Mattoll, 200-202. Pitcairn Islanders, recent Accounts
Mavro Vouno, 79. of, 155-168.
Mazanderan,18. Pitt's Island, 111.
Mazoma, 79. Pittie, 114.
Alekrawan, lo. Prevesa, 77.
Menjile, 14. Puente d'Arena, 276.
Miana, 9, lo, 11. Pulo Condore 298.
JMidanDaug, 12. Punjab, Rive;s, 113,135-District,
Miskeal, 12. l54.
Mittun, 135.
Mojan, 30. Querimba,203, 21ll2.
Mombas, 210, 280-283. Quilimane, 206, 21ll3.
Monfuas211. Quiloa, Great, 211*
Monte Gardo,197.
Mooltan, 113, 149. Racca, 233.
Moors in Siam, 293. Haiatea, 179-184.
Mosulla, 18, 2n. Rainy IJake,67.
Mozambique 203, 207. Ravee, 146, 152.
Muddy Lake 66. llealejo, 276.
Mughribee, 123. Rechel, 117.
Murutsi 311, 313. Reduit Kalla, 35.
Muscat, 207. Resht, 17, 21.
Muttaree, 129. - Abad, l9.
Muzaree.s,137. ?hllmia, Lake, 4, 6, 54.
Rio Grande, 218.
Namoh, 300. Rion (Phasis), 34.
Nankin, 309, Rood Bar, 16.
Nara, 132. Roree, 133.
Nicaragua, Sarl 3uan de, 275*279. Xovooma, 209.
 INDEX.
328
Sahend Mountains, 1. Sukus Chie, 12.
Salahoras8-o. Suxldar,Alum mines of, 16.
San Juan Bautista, 64. Sursat Mountains, 7s
del Sul, 276, Superior, Lake, 65.
Sares-Kend, 4. Susa, on the site of, 257-2674
Sata, 114. Sutledge, 141, 145.
Satelmish, 6.
Sallgra, 208.- Tabreez, 1.
Sault Ste. Marie, 65. Ta-koo, 304, 306.
Seanghae, 302. Talish, 2.5,29.
Secundereah,Cave of, 2 Tamatave, 212.
Seerj 119* Tammahas,247.
Sehwun, 127. Tap-Tap, 5.
Seik-Labana, 124. Tatowa 5.
Sen, 129. Tatta, 114, 126.
Senna, 2130 Teen-fung,299.
Serifshan,Rierer,7, 8. Teen-tsin,305.
Sevan (Goukeka), Lake, 4o Temby, 200-202.
Island 43. Terek, 25, 38.
Sevillan 27. Terk, 21.
Seychelles, 216. Thlov-ee-cho River, 7v.
Shah-bunder,117. Tiflis, 32, 38.
-Rood, 15 Tigris, 264.
Sesvund,29. Tin-ching, 303.
Shama Dash, 16. Tonga Islands, 185-194.
Shan-so, 303. Trinidada, 198.
Sheikhterabad,I 1 Tukht Suliman, 6.
Shekakies, 5, 9.
Shikarpool, 136. Usumasinta River, 59-64.
Shindan, 26.
Shoojuabad,149, 1o<? Vickur, 117.
Shoor Chie, 4. Vintain River, 75.
Shorkote, 147. Vonitza, 86.
Shumkhert32. t Vuvala, 81.
Shtlstel, 4266.
Siam, 292, 29fi. Wan Lake, 50.
Sied Abad, 2* Wankitsis314, 317.
- Kenday, 9 WinnipegRiver, 67-Lake, 68
Sierra Leone, 218.
Sinde, 114-135. Yakoub Ansar, 7.
Slave River, 69-Lake, 7X). Butak, 7.
t3oaka,300. Tengaga, 9, 10.
Society Islands, 173-184 lTengatschay 1 0*
Sofals, 206. Youngally, 7.
Sofa Khona Mountains, fi)
Somauli, 208. Zambes;, 214.
Soudj-Bulak, 6. Zanzibar,210.
South Sea Islands, 176-19 Zetlic, 20.
Sowhylese, 209. Zendan, 8.
St. Thaddells,Convent of, 48. Zenjan, 9, lO.
Subliga, 5. Ziterabad,14.
SuffiedRood (Kizil Ouzan), IG, 1S. Zoolas, 315.
Sukkur, 134. Zumbo, 214.
END OF VOL. III.

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