Adding The Seam Allowances, Notches & Drill Holes 107

ADDING THE SEAM
ALLOWANCES, NOTCHES
& DRILL HOLES
The pattern cutter needs to add an allowance around each
paper pattern piece to enable the pieces to be stitched
together or to attach components of the garment such
as zips, collars and cuffs. Generally an allowance of 1cm
(3/8in) is added to the seams. In addition, an allowance is also
added to the outer edges of the garment, such as the hem.
A 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance is the standard used within the

industry. (Before the wide acceptance of the metric system, the
standard was 3/8in). Such a standardized allowance saves on the
cost of fabric. If the inclusion of a 1cm seam allowance on the A larger allowance is usually added to the hem of a
pattern is accepted, then the pattern cutter does not need to garment than to the seam.
indicate the seam allowance on the pattern itself, except at the
hem where it might be wider. When working outside the industry,
however, seam allowances should always be marked.
Paper patterns used in the

industry do not have marks
for the seam allowances,
except at the hem, where
notches are marked.
Back x 1 pair self
CF front x 1 self
CB
Copyright © 2011. Laurence King Publishing. All rights reserved.
On this paper pattern all

the seam allowances have
been marked and specified.
Back x 1 pair self
CF front x 1 self
CB
Lo, D. C. (2011). Pattern cutting. ProQuest Ebook Central <a onclick=window.open('http://ebookcentral.proquest.com','_blank') href='http://ebookcentral.proquest.com' target='_blank'
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Created from salford on 2020-11-20 01:30:02.
For high-end fashion, however, which allows for a more expensive
manufacturing process, different seam allowance widths are
used on different areas of the garment. This is because different
types of fabric, different parts of the garment, design details and
finishings all require different allowances to coincide with their
function and method of construction within the garment.
A 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance would not work on loosely woven or

delicate fabrics, for example, because these fabrics tend to fray
when handled; a larger allowance is needed to counteract the
effect and ensure that the seams are stable.
Sometimes a smaller allowance is needed when constructing

garment details, such as a jetted pocket. The depth of such a
finished pocket opening is usually 0.5cm (¼in) and so the seam
allowance needs to be the same depth.
Adding a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance to the paper pattern is,

therefore, a good starting point, but consideration should be taken When stretched in the course of wear, the seam
of the fabric and method of construction in case the allowance of a tweed jacket will easily become unstable.
should be increased or decreased. Finalizing the seam allowance In this case the solution would be to tape the seam
can be done as part of the process of making and adjusting allowances with fusible light weight Vilene tape
the toile when, if the toile is made in as close a fabric to the final and to increase their width to 1.5cm (½in).
garment as possible, it should become apparent where a wider or

narrower allowance is needed. The following table shows some
areas where the width of the allowance should be considered.
A double-jetted pocket
requires a seam allowance
of approx. 0.5cm (1/4in).
Seam allowance 0.5cm

108 CHAPTER
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Chiffon/muslin/fine & delicate fabrics 1.5cm (½in) These fabrics have a tendency to fray and so
require a wider seam allowance. It is also a good
idea to overlock the seam allowances of such
delicate fabrics or use a French seam (which
would require a 1.5cm (½in) seam allowance).
Thick wool/bouclé/loose woven fabrics 1.5cm (½in) The looser weave of these fabrics means that
the seams are easily pulled apart when worn.
In this case a wider seam is recommended,
together with the application of iron-on tape
prior to sewing the seams.
Heavy thick fabrics/padded fabrics 1.5cm (½in) Heavier fabrics need a wider seam because the
two sides of a narrower seam allowance will not
lie down flat when pressed.
Curved seams 0.5cm (¼in) A curved seam is difficult to sew, especially

when the outside of the curve matches the
inside of the curve. This is because the inside of
the curve shortens while the outside lengthens
when seam allowance is added. A smaller seam
allowance will mean that the difference between
the two will not be so obvious. It is also easier to
sew a narrower seam allowance on a curve.
Centre back seam on trousers (menswear) 3.5cm (1½in) This means 3.5cm (1½in) at the top attached
near waistband to the waistband then gradually goes back to
1cm (½in) along the centre back crotch seam.
A wider seam allowance is often used at the
centre back of men’s tailored trousers so that
they can be let out, if necessary, over time, thus
ensuring the longevity of the garment.
Armhole or neckline or edges that are No seam allowance Armholes and necklines finished with bias
finished with bias binding binding will not need an additional seam
allowance. However, if the bias binding is to be
stitched down on the inside of the garment and

invisible on the outside, then an allowance of
0.5cm (¼in) should be added.
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NOTCHES By marking one
Notches are used to show where two sides of a seam are aligned notch on one side of
and sewn together. They are particularly useful when marked a square and two on
along curved seams. They are also used to mark construction the other, the pattern
points, such as at the hip line or knee level on trousers, and can cutter is able to remove
be used to distinguish between the front and back of an armhole, the shape, add seam
where one notch is usually placed on the front curve and two on allowances, and then
the technician will
the back. Notches can also be used at the beginning of a dart or
know which side of
to mark the position of pleats and tucks.
the square should be
attached to which seam
so that the grainline
will run in the same
direction on both
pieces of fabric.
Front Back
Back sleeve Front sleeve

Notches can be used to mark the
position of construction lines and
also to distinguish between the DRILL HOLES
front and back of an armhole seam. Drill holes can also be used to mark the position of:
• the corners and position of pockets

• sewing/top-stitching guidelines
• the end of darts
• corners that need to be clipped
• buttons and buttonholes
Drill holes are often used with notches. Notches, for example,
are usually used to mark the beginning of the dart, while a drill
Notches can also be used to distinguish between shapes that are hole is usually placed 2cm (¾in) from the end of the dart. When
very similar. For example a four-piece bra cup. the dart is sewn from the notches at the beginning towards the
end, the stitching continues 2cm (¾in) beyond the drill hole and is
Notches are usually marked halfway along a seam, and on a then back tacked to finish the sewing line. This ensures that the
very long seam, such as on the seam of an evening dress with a marked drill hole will be invisible on the right side of the fabric.
long train, additional notches should be placed 70cm (28in) apart,
for example. Drill holes can also be used to locate the exact point where
stitching should end, the point at which the pattern should be cut
open, or where stitching should pivot. A drill hole, for example, is
used at the end of a godet insertion.
110 CHAPTER
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Adding The Seam Allowances, Notches & Drill Holes 107

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ADDING THE SEAM

A 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance is the standard used within the

Paper patterns used in the

On this paper pattern all

A 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance would not work on loosely woven or

Sometimes a smaller allowance is needed when constructing

Adding a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance to the paper pattern is,

garment as possible, it should become apparent where a wider or

Seam allowance 0.5cm

Curved seams 0.5cm (¼in) A curved seam is difficult to sew, especially

stitched down on the inside of the garment and

Back sleeve Front sleeve

• the corners and position of pockets

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