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Understanding Auto ISO in Photography     5

LAST UPDATED ON JUNE 28, 2017 BY ELIZABETH – 125 COMMENTS
Did you know that most modern digital cameras have the ability to set ISO automatically? Back in the film days, you would drop a roll of film into your
camera and your ISO, or ASA as it was known back then, would be fixed for the entire roll. With digital, not only can you change your ISO on the fly, but
you can also set your camera to adjust it automatically. In this article, we will explore Auto ISO in detail and learn how to you use it with different
shooting modes of your camera. In addition, we will discuss scenarios where it is advantageous and situations when setting ISO manually is more
appropriate.
1) The Exposure Triangle

Before we talk about Auto ISO, let’s do a bit of review. The exposure triangle relates the three variables which are
responsible for how your camera collects and records the exposure: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. Shutter
speed is the length of time the sensor is exposed to light. Faster shutter speeds let less light in, and longer ones
let in more. Aperture is the size of the opening in the lens. A big opening lets more light pass through to the
sensor. And lastly, ISO can be thought of as the sensitivity of the sensor (though that is a bit of a simplification).
For any given lighting condition, the higher the ISO, the less light is needed by the sensor to record the image. If
any one of these variables changes, the others (either one or both) have to adjust to capture the scene correctly.
2) Shooting Modes
I’m sure you have heard of the four main shooting modes found on DSLR’s and mirrorless cameras. In Automatic Program Mode (P) the camera chooses
both the aperture and the shutter speed. In Aperture Priority (A or Av for Canon shooters) you select an aperture, and the camera’s computer chooses
the correct shutter speed. In Shutter Priority (S or Tv for Canon shooters) you pick a shutter speed, and the camera sets the proper aperture. In Manual
Mode (M), you set both the aperture and the shutter speed. But wait, you said there were three variables! What happened to ISO?
https://photographylife.com/what-is-auto-iso 08-Sep-17
When you are not using Auto ISO, the shooting modes above assume that you have already selected an appropriate ISO for the lighting conditions. In
other words, ISO is taken out of the equation because it has already been chosen and fixed by you. If the light is bright, you have probably set a low ISO
somewhere around 100-200. To achieve faster shutter speeds or at lower light levels, you will most likely set your ISO between 400-1600. In some
instances, you may even need to go higher. I am very comfortable using an ISO up to 6400 with my Fujifilm gear, and 3200 with my Nikon D500.
In summary, in Program Mode, the user only sets the ISO, the camera is responsible for selecting the other two. In Aperture and Shutter Priority, the
user is responsible for setting two of the three exposure variables (aperture and ISO, or shutter speed and ISO), the camera sets the third. In Manual
Mode, the user sets all three variables.
3) What is Auto ISO?

When your camera is set to Auto ISO, you still shoot using one of the four modes that I mentioned above. However, rather than you pre-selecting an
ISO value, the camera selects it for you. The camera does this based on several criteria that you choose when you configure Auto ISO.
4) Setting Up Auto ISO

So let’s take a look at how to configure Auto ISO on your camera. Each camera manufacturer does things a bit differently, and even within the same
brand, the features may differ slightly by camera model. Make sure you refer to your user manual for detailed instructions on where to find the Auto ISO
configuration settings in your camera’s menu system.
To configure Auto ISO, you need to set three variables. Firstly, you will need to tell the camera what the maximum ISO is that you are willing to tolerate.
Selecting the maximum ISO is highly subjective. What one person sees as OK, another may find unacceptable. Remember, higher ISO’s are not a miracle
cure for achieving faster shutter speeds in low light. There are trade-offs, such as increased noise and reduced image quality. For an in-depth discussion
of noise and ISO, see Spencer’s excellent article on ISO Invariance. In his article, he discusses what causes noise and how dynamic range is affected at
higher ISO’s.
Secondly, you need to tell the camera what ISO it should use on the lower end. I always select the lowest native ISO available. On my Nikon camera that
is ISO 100, and on my Fuji’s the base ISO is 200. On Canon and Fujifilm cameras, setting the maximum and minimum ISO is fairly straightforward.
However on a Nikon, the minimum ISO is entered in the same field used for setting ISO manually. If you are a Nikon shooter and are using Auto ISO,
make sure you set your ISO sensitivity back to 100. Otherwise, the camera will not take advantage of ISO’s below the level you set manually.
Lastly, you need to set the minimum shutter speed that you want the camera to stay above. For example, if you are shooting sports you might need to
keep your shutter speed faster than 1/1000s to prevent motion blur of the athletes. On the other hand, if your subjects are moving slowly, maybe 1/125s
is fast enough.
Some cameras allow you to set the minimum shutter speed automatically based on the focal length of your lens. The camera uses the reciprocal rule to
do this. The reciprocal rule says that you should use a shutter speed faster than one over the focal length of your lens (based on the full frame
equivalent focal length). If you are using a 100mm lens, then a minimum shutter speed of 1/100s is needed. The camera also adds a safety factor of
somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.5 to 2, depending on camera brand. So if the camera recognizes that you are using a 100 mm lens, it would set
the minimum shutter speed to 1/150s or 1/200s. This minimum speed is fine if you are only worried about motion blur due to handheld camera shake.
However, for most camera brands, this feature does not take into account lenses that have image stabilization. Image stabilization allows you to shoot
at slower shutter speeds than one over the focal length. Additionally, the camera can’t determine if you need to freeze subject movement, as opposed
to just camera movement. If that is the case, the reciprocal rule won’t help you! For these reasons, I always set my minimum shutter speed based on
what I am shooting, and I do not let the camera select it automatically.
5) Using Shooting Modes with Auto ISO

You’ve activated Auto ISO and are ready to take some pictures. Let’s look at how the various shooting modes are affected when Auto ISO is turned on.
I’m not going to discuss the Automatic Program Mode (P) because I am hoping that you are taking some creative control over your images. Letting your
camera have free range over aperture, shutter speed, and ISO gives you no say in how your images will look! Review my past article on Choosing a
Creative Exposure – A Beginner’s Guide to see how to use aperture and shutter speed artistically.
To help illustrate how each shooting mode works in combination with Auto ISO, I’m going to use some sample exposure data. For each case I am going
to make the following assumptions:
• The lens has apertures between f/2.8 and f/22.

• The Auto ISO range is set to 200 (min) and 3200(max).
• The camera has a native ISO range between 200 to 6400.
• The minimum shutter speed in Auto ISO has been set to 1/125s.
• The fastest possible shutter speed on the camera is 1/8000s.
5.1) Aperture Priority with Auto ISO
In Aperture Priority, you select an aperture based on how much depth of field you want in your image. The camera then selects the correct shutter
speed. If the calculated shutter speed is slower than the minimum speed, then the camera will increase the ISO.
In this first example, let’s suppose that an aperture of f/8 gives a correct exposure at the minimum shutter speed of 1/125s and the lowest ISO of 200.
We will use this as our starting point and assume the light does not change as we adjust the aperture.
If you want to set faster apertures (f/5.6, f/4 or f/2.8) the camera will increase the shutter speed and maintain the minimum ISO.
However, if you choose smaller apertures, such as f/11, f/16 or f/22, the camera will have to increase your ISO to keep the shutter speed above the
minimum value.
Aperture Shutter Speed ISO Comments
2.8 1/1000 200 Shutter speed increases and min ISO is maintained.
4 1/500 200 Shutter speed increases and min ISO is maintained.
8 1/125 200 Starting Point
11 1/125 400 To maintain min shutter speed ISO is increased.
1Aperture Priority – User sets aperture based on the required depth of field.
Make sure you are paying careful attention to the display in your viewfinder. In most camera models, if the camera reaches the maximum ISO and still
cannot achieve a correct exposure, it sacrifices your minimum shutter speed. In other words, the camera will not change your aperture (that is the
definition of Aperture Priority), and it will never go above the maximum ISO you set in the configuration. Therefore, it must use a slower shutter speed
to expose the image correctly.
You can see an example of when this happens here. This time the lighting is a bit darker. An aperture of f/4 , at 1/125s and ISO 200 produces a correct
exposure (our starting point). Say you want to set an aperture of f/22 to achieve a large DOF. Since there is not enough light at the highest ISO, the
camera drops the shutter speed a stop, to 1/60s.
4 1/125 200 Starting Point.
5.6 1/125 400 To maintain min shutter speed ISO is increased.
16 1/125 3200 To maintain min shutter speed ISO is increased. Now at max ISO.
22 1/60 3200 Sacrifices min shutter speed to achieve correct exposure and not exceed max ISO.
1Aperture Priority – User sets aperture based on the required depth of field.
It is highly unlikely that you will ever get an underexposed image using Aperture Priority and Auto ISO. This is because the camera will always override
the minimum shutter speed (like in the last example). Most cameras can automatically expose up to 30s, which is usually more than ample time to
collect enough light. However, this is not very practical! If you notice the camera is dropping below your set minimum shutter speed, you will need to
open up your aperture.
It is possible to get an overexposed shot in this mode, though. Say for example you are using a fast lens and want to achieve a very shallow DOF, so you
set your aperture to f/2.8. If the camera is already using the lowest ISO, and a faster shutter speed than is mechanically possible on your camera is
needed, then your image will be overexposed. The only way around this is to close down your aperture.
5.2) Shutter Priority and Auto ISO
In Shutter Priority, you select a shutter speed based on how you want to record motion. Do you want to freeze action with a fast shutter speed, or create
a sense of movement using a slow shutter speed? With Auto ISO activated, the camera then determines the aperture necessary for the correct exposure
using the lowest ISO. Because you are setting the shutter speed, the camera ignores the minimum shutter speed set in the Auto ISO configuration. If the
maximum aperture does not let in enough light, then the camera increases ISO.
Let’s say that you choose a shutter speed of 1/125s and the camera determines that an aperture of f/11 is required to capture the correct amount of
light at the minimum ISO of 200, (our starting point). If you decide to slow your shutter speed down to blur the motion to 1/60s or 1/30s the camera
stops down the aperture using ISO 200.
However, be careful not to overexpose your shot. If you decide that you need an even slower shutter speed for artistic reasons (1/15s or slower) the
image will be overexposed. This is because the lens we chose cannot stop down smaller than f/22. Since the ISO is as low as it can get, the resulting
image will be too bright.
On the other hand, if you decide to use a faster shutter speed, the camera will increase your aperture. At 1/2000s it determines that an aperture of f/2.8
is required. Any shutter speeds above 1/2000s will cause an increase in the ISO.
2.8 1/4000 400 Since the aperture is already wide open, ISO is increased.
2.8 1/2000 200 Aperture increase while min ISO is maintained. Now at the widest aperture.
4 1/1000 200 Aperture increase while min ISO is maintained.
5.6 1/500 200 Aperture increase while min ISO is maintained.
8 1/250 200 Aperture increase while min ISO is maintained.
11 1/125 200 Starting Point.
16 1/60 200 Aperture decreases while min ISO is maintained.
22 1/30 200 Aperture decreases while min ISO is maintained. Now at the narrowest aperture.
22 1/15 200 Overexposed since aperture is as small as possible and ISO as low as possible.
1
Shutter Priority – The user sets the shutter speed based on how motion is to be captured.
Let’s look at one more example using Shutter Priority and Auto ISO. This time you decide to set a shutter speed of 1/125 of a second. The camera
determines an aperture of f/2.8 is required at the minimum ISO. If you decide to increase your shutter speed, the camera will increase the ISO. At a
shutter speed of 1/2000s, the camera has now reached the maximum ISO.
If you decide that you need an even faster shutter speed, say 1/4000s, the camera will underexpose your image. The camera has reached its maximum
ISO and the aperture is wide open. Bottom line, unless you increase the maximum allowable ISO, you will not be able to capture enough light to expose
the scene properly!
2.8 1/4000 3200 Underexposes image.
2.8 1/2000 3200 Increases ISO because the aperture is wide open. Maximum ISO reached.
2.8 1/1000 1600 Increases ISO because the aperture is wide open.
1
2.8 1/125 200 Starting Point.
4 1/60 200 Aperture decreases while min ISO is maintained.
1
5.3) Manual Mode and Auto ISO
In Manual Mode, you have the most control. Once you select both the aperture and the shutter speed, the camera determines the ISO for a correct
exposure. This mode allows you to fix your depth of field and shutter speed, putting you in complete creative command.
Manual Mode works particularly well in situations where the minimum shutter speed level varies. Say you are photographing your child’s soccer game.
When the action is happening, you will want a fast minimum shutter speed so that you don’t end up with blurry soccer players. In this case, a higher ISO
is acceptable. However, when the coach calls the team in for a pep talk, or you want to take shots of the bench or sidelines, a fast shutter speed is not
needed. Why not drop your shutter speed to make use of lower ISO’s? In Manual Mode, you can do this quickly without having to go back into the
menus to find the Auto ISO settings.
You do need to pay very close attention to your viewfinder display, though. It is easy to end up with overexposed and underexposed images.
Looking at one last example. Let us say that you are photographing birds. You decided to set a shutter speed of 1/1000s to try and freeze their
flight and set an aperture of f/8 to make sure the bird is sharp from wingtip to wingtip. At these settings, the camera determines that an ISO of 1600 is
required.
4 1/250 200 Overexposed.
5.6 1/250 200 ISO decreased by three stops.
8 1/1000 1600 Starting point.
8 1/2000 3200 Increases ISO.
8 1/4000 3200 Underexposed since the ISO is not high enough to capture the correct exposure.
1
Manual Mode – The user sets both the shutter speed and aperture.
After taking a look at your images, you decide that your shutter speed just isn’t fast enough to freeze the bird’s movement, so you increase it to
1/2000s. You are happy with the aperture, so you keep it at f/8. The camera calculates an ISO of 3200.
These birds are moving very quickly and your images are still blurry! You increase the shutter speed to 1/4000s while maintaining an aperture of
f/8. However, since a higher ISO is needed for the correct exposure, the image is now underexposed!
Now the birds have landed. You want to take advantage of the fact that you no longer need a fast shutter speed. Referring to your original settings of
1/1000s, f/8 and ISO 1600, you decide to drop your shutter speed to 1/250s. This change is an increase of two stops (1/1000s to 1/500s, then 1/500s to
1/250s). You also want to try and isolate the birds from the background, so you open up the aperture to f/5.6 (an additional one stop increase in the
exposure relative to the original images taken at f/8). Since the camera must compensate for three stops, it drops the ISO down to 200 (1600 to 800,
then 800 to 400, and then 400 to 200 is three stops).
At this point, you should be happy. But no! You want to make sure that you have a beautifully creamy bokeh in the background! You opt for an even
wider depth of field using an aperture of f/4. However, this time the camera has reached the bottom end of its ISO capabilities and the image is over
exposed!
So take heed. If you are not paying attention to the camera display, it is easy to overlook settings that will cause underexposed or overexposed images.
On a mirrorless camera, you have the advantage of seeing what your exposure will look like in the viewfinder or on the LCD before you take the picture.
So hopefully you will realize when you run into this situation and make the necessary changes to your aperture or shutter speed. However, on a DSLR
the warnings are subtle. Your exposure compensation scale may say your exposure is wrong, or your ISO may be displayed in red or flash. It is important
to know how your camera behaves so you don’t discover incorrectly exposed images when you get home.
6) A Few Words about Using Exposure Compensation with Auto ISO

On most newer cameras it is possible to use exposure compensation in Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority with Auto ISO configured. It is best to
experiment with your camera to make sure you understand what the camera adjusts when compensation is applied.
There are a few camera models now that also allow you to use exposure compensation in Manual Mode. Remember that in Manual Mode, both the
shutter speed and aperture are fixed by the user, so the camera can only vary the ISO to adjust for the compensation. However, the amount your ISO
can change will be limited by the range you set in the Auto ISO configuration. There is only a six stop difference between ISO 100 and ISO 6400 (100 to
200, 200 to 400, 400 to 800, 800 to 1600, 1600 to 3200, 3200 to 6400). If your camera’s meter has set an ISO near the top or bottom of this range
without any compensation, you will be limited in how much compensation you can add or subtract.
7) When to Use Auto ISO

If you find yourself in situations where the light is changing, and you need to shoot quickly to capture the action, then Auto ISO can save the day.
Taking photos of wildlife, where your subject is moving between bright light and shadows or the clouds are rolling in and out, is a perfect opportunity
to give Auto ISO a try. Shooting at a wedding, where the happy couple is moving from a dark church to the bright outdoors, is another example.
Photographing a sports match at an outdoor stadium, where part of the field is in the shade and part is in the sun, is another situation where Auto ISO
would be an advantage. These are all examples of when enabling Auto ISO can increase your chances of not missing a shot.
8) When to Avoid Auto ISO

Although Auto ISO is a great feature to have. There are situations when manually setting your ISO is a better option. When working from a tripod,
shutter speed is not an issue. In this instance, set your aperture manually to the lowest native ISO. This will give you the best image quality. For studio
shoots, where you are in control of the lighting, Auto ISO will be of no benefit.
Another consideration is whether or not you can adjust the exposure compensation when Auto ISO is turned on. If this is not a feature of your camera,
you will not be able to adjust for backlighting or other lighting conditions that tend to fool the meter.
9) Conclusion
In situations when I decide to use Auto ISO, I prefer to use Manual Mode. I do not want to give up creative control to my camera. I select my aperture
based on the depth of field I need. And I choose my shutter speed depending on how fast my subject is moving. I allow the camera to select the
appropriate ISO. However, I keep careful track of the settings in the viewfinder to make sure I’m not overexposing or underexposing my images.
In Aperture and Shutter Priority with Auto ISO, the camera has control over two quantities, ISO and either the shutter speed or aperture. Since the
camera is choosing two of the three variables, the exposure settings can sometimes seem unpredictable. This is another reason why I defer to Manual
Mode with Auto ISO.
With advancements in camera technology and with high ISO performance improving in leaps and bounds, Auto ISO is a great feature to consider. If you
have not given it a try, take some time to understand how it works. Try different shooting modes and see how the exposure settings change as the light
changes. Play with the configuration settings to see how your minimum shutter speed and maximum ISO affect your exposure.
Hopefully you have a better understanding of what Auto ISO is now, and how to use it. If you have any questions, be sure to leave a comment below.
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FILED UNDER: PHOTOGRAPHY TUTORIALS

TAGGED WITH: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS, HOWTO, PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS
About Elizabeth
Elizabeth grew up in Vancouver, on the beautiful West Coast of Canada. In 2012 she relocated to Houston Texas for two years and
then moved to Gautier, Mississippi in July of 2014. She loves the gulf coast and all the photographic opportunities it offers.
Elizabeth's areas of interest are widespread and include street, wildlife, nature, architecture, macro and long exposures. She is particularly passionate
about black and white images. You can see more of her work on her website at www.photographybyelizabethgray.com or on Instagram at
photosbyelizabethgray
Comments
1) Vladimir Khudyakov
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 10:13 AM
Many thanks Elizabeth. In touch and clear.
On Nikon system AutoISO has a different steps for increase\decrease – 1\3 or 1\2 eV. This way you have 100-125 and so on…
Reply
1.1) Elizabeth
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 9:54 AM
Thanks, Vladimir. Glad you liked the article!
Reply
2) Earl Hirtz
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 10:40 AM
Thanks Elizabeth, now I finally understand how Auto ISO works. I love my Nikon D500, but not it’s operating manual. I shoot a lot of wildlife on the BC
coast, so the Bears and other animals are often moving between the shady rainforest and the sunlit beach. Auto ISO should help with that.
Reply
2.1) Elizabeth
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 9:58 AM
Thanks for the comments, Earl, and I’m glad you enjoyed the article. I’m in the process of moving back to British Columbia and am looking forward
to capturing west coast wildlife as you describe. Nothing like the scenery and nature there! I think you will find that Auto ISO really helps in
situations like this. Would love to hear how you make out. Happy shooting!
Reply
3) Kalyan
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 10:46 AM
Sorry for being rude but it should be exposure triad and not exposure triangle. Exposure triangle is a poor solution to understand the concept where
as a 3 axis display might take a few more mins to explain but be more fundamentally correct …
Reply
3.1) Merlin Marquardt

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 1:41 PM
The exposure triad is often represented as an exposure triangle.
Reply
4) Merlin Marquardt
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 10:55 AM
Great description and discussion.
Reply
4.1) Elizabeth
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 9:59 AM
Thanks, Merlin! Always appreciate your comments.
Reply
5) Matt Nielsen
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 11:28 AM
Great in-depth article. I use auto-ISO instead of aperture or shutter priority when I’m shooting sports. In my opinion, image noise is much more
acceptable than blurry subjects or poor depth of field control.
Reply
5.1) Elizabeth
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 10:05 AM
Couldn’t agree more Matt! I would much rather have an in-focus shot with noise rather than a blurry one that doesn’t. And, with improvements in
post processing software, it is much easier to remove or at least mitigate noise in your images. However, there is nothing you can do to correct a
blurry image after the fact.
Thanks for you comments!
Reply
6) Betty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 1:10 PM
Sorry to rain on this parade, but ISO has nothing to do with exposure.
This nonsense is another example of sloppy thinking that has become part of common parlance and been accepted as received ‘fact’.
The three variables governing exposure are Aperture, Shutter Speed and Scene Luminance – only these three factors govern the amount of light
falling on the sensor – and hence the exposure.
Exposure is not the same as perceived brightness.

Exposure is defined at base ISO and is constant for a given aperture, shutter speed and scene luminance.
ISO governs the sensitivity of the recording medium (film or digital sensor) and only affects the brightness of the image – not the exposure.
Changing ISO is simply altering perceived brightness by cranking up the electrical gain at the sensor (or choosing a more sensitive film stock and/or
push/pull processing) – not the exposure, which remains unchanged.
In both cases the sensitivity of the recording medium is being increased to show greater brightness at a given exposure but the amount of light
producing the exposure has not changed by one iota.
Iliah Borg has pointed this out repeatedly but no one listens.
Reply
6.1) Merlin Marquardt

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 1:45 PM
Well, maybe, but for any given luminance, in order to get the “correct” or appropriate brightness or exposure on the film or sensor, the shutter
speed and/or aperture must be adjusted, so for any given luminance the three factors that can be adjusted are the shutter speed and the aperture
and the film or sensor sensitivity or iso. Isn’t this in part just semantics?
Reply
6.1.1) Betty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 4:02 PM
Merlin
Nope.
Your reasoning is muddled.
For any given luminance, to achieve correct exposure only shutter speed and aperture can be adjusted. If the ISO is adjusted, the exposure
remains the same. You can increase ISO as much as you like – the exposure remains untouched. If you increase ISO the only things that change
are brightness and noise.
If you think exposure and brightness are either equivalent or the same, you are simply wrong.
So yes, it is semantics.
Exposure and brightness have quite different meanings.
Reply
6.1.1.1) Merlin Marquardt

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 4:16 PM
So we should call it brightness control?
Reply
6.1.1.1.1) Betty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 4:26 PM
Merlin
Exactly right.
The same applies for instance, to the Exposure slider in Lightroom and other editing software. It is not an Exposure control. It is a Brightness
control. The Exposure happened in the camera long before it got into Lightroom.
Reply
6.1.1.1.1.1) Merlin Marquardt

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 5:51 PM
Betty,
I see your point. So why isn’t this usage generally understood and used more correctly? I think it is because of the idea that setting
exposure involves knowing what is the sensitivity of the film or sensor or the iso number? You need to know the sensitivity of the film or
sensor in order to know how much light to let in in order to get the appropriate brightness. Makes sense or not?
Reply
6.1.1.1.1.1.1) Betty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 6:21 PM
Yes, it makes sense.

Because exposure determines brightness, the two words have come to be used interchangeably – as if they were the same thing – and
eventually fall into common parlance.
They are however, not the same thing.
For many it doesn’t matter, but not understanding the meaning of words in any scientific or technical field (like photography) is a
recipe for muddle, confusion and error.
Some are content to muddle along in their foggy world forever wondering why their camera constantly fails them. Others set their
horizon higher and reap the rewards.
Reply
6.1.1.1.1.1.1.1) Rui Cruz

APRIL 7, 2017 AT 2:39 PM
I was going to comment something like this, Betty, but thank you for doing it instead.
Finally someone said it. ISO is applied gain, not sensor sensitivity. ISO works after the shot is taken and not not before/when it is
taken.
Reply
6.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1) Betty
APRIL 7, 2017 AT 4:53 PM
Rui
Thanks.
My head now feels less like it’s been beaten against a brick wall.
Reply
6.1.2) Mark C
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 6:10 AM
Oh Betty, the expert-know-it-all-nothing is back…
Reply
6.1.2.1) Betty
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 6:32 AM
Is that your contribution to the discussion Mark?
Reply
6.1.2.2) Ralph
JUNE 29, 2017 AT 12:33 AM
But she’s absolutely correct, so she does know this!
Reply
6.1.2.2.1) Betty
JUNE 29, 2017 AT 3:53 AM
Thank you, Ralph.
Reply
6.2) Vladimir Khudyakov

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 3:50 PM
And? May be you add something to “What is Auto ISO and How to Use It”?
Reply
6.2.1) Betty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 4:10 PM
Vladimir
The article starts with an explanation of exposure which is misleading.

Anything beyond that point is therefore also misleading.
If you are comfortable assimilating misleading information, then there is nothing I can add that might help you.
Reply
6.2.1.1) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 10:56 PM
Take for instance the comment “I always select the lowest native ISO available”.
This may not always be wise. Many cameras benefit from having their shadow noise reduced by raising the ISO above the lowest native ISO
available. Again not having the basic understanding what ISO is, leads to other misunderstandings
Reply
6.3) Rick Keller

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 4:35 PM
In contrast to digital photography, in film photography ISO has plenty to do with exposure, in which the ‘exposure triangle’ stands. :)
Reply
6.3.1) Betty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 5:25 PM
Rick
Agreed, – to a degree, in that with film, ISO once determined for a particular camera/meter is, to all intents and purposes, fixed.
As I understand it, altering exposure with film alters the recorded tonal scale at the expense of shadow detail, highlight detail and grain.
Development can modify/correct these changes – to a degree.
Also, film ISO and digital ISO are rather different beasts so direct comparisons are at best difficult and at worst impossibly confusing.
Your further comments would be welcome.
Reply
6.3.1.1) Rick Keller

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 8:10 PM
Betty,
Agreed. The ISO for a given film stock is fixed; there is nothing a photographer can do to alter the sensitivity of the film.
I should clarify what I meant, which will also affirm what you’ve previously eloquently explained. Staying within the realm of film photography,
ISO does not affect the exposure itself (which is determined by the duration of the light exposure, the scene luminance, and the aperture), but
it does affect the *amount* of that exposure that is needed to obtain the desired effect.
For example, let’s say you have achieved a given result (e.g., your photograph or a specific radiographic density on film) using a given scene
luminance, a given duration of exposure, and a given aperture using a sheet of film with a given light sensitivity. If the photographer desires
to achieve the same result using a different sheet of film with a higher light sensitivity, then less of that original exposure (defined by the same
three parameters above) will be needed. The photographer may then choose to alter one of those three original parameters accordingly.
That’s it!
So long as the student of photography understands this, ISO (in film photography) can still be a useful concept in understanding ‘exposure’,
which should be (in my humble opinion) conceptualized as ‘obtaining the desired result’. :)
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6.3.2) Ralph
JUNE 29, 2017 AT 12:40 AM
Film definitely had varying sensitivities to light. Digital sensors have one and ONLY one sensitivity to light. You cannot swap out sensors the way
film could. Therefore, ISO is simply the degree of post-capture amplification of the electrical signal once photons are converted to electrons, and
therefore voltage. Exposure has already occurred by the time this amplification of electrical signal occurs. So ISO, in its simplest form, is a
brightness control. Brightness is not the same as exposure.
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6.3.2.1) Betty
JUNE 29, 2017 AT 4:03 AM
Well, perhaps we could put it this way.

Sensitivity cannot be changed for either film or a digital sensor.
To change the sensitivity one has to change the film stock or use a different sensor.
An apparent increase can be made by altering the way in which a film is developed (push/pull processing) or by increasing the gain on the
sensor.
In both cases brightness is changed but the exposure remains constant.
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6.4) Nasim Mansurov

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 9:56 PM
Betty,
I have been teaching photography for 10 years now. What you are saying is correct, but nobody gets it. Iliah is an amazing team member and his
knowledge is vast, but there is a reason why people don’t listen – it is hard to comprehend much of what he says because it is over their heads. For
a person who wants to take a picture what difference does it make if ISO is explained as sensitivity or brightness? Sensitivity is easy to understand,
because it is very similar to film – even manufacturers like Nikon use the same “ISO sensitivity” terminology – and for a good reason. Everybody
gets it.
Now take what you have written and make a beginner read it – will they understand any of it? Nope, they won’t. If you believe they would, I would
love to see an article on understanding ISO for beginners. If you can make such an article easy to follow and understand, I personally promise to
wipe out every mention of the words “ISO sensitivity” from all articles on this website and swap the third variable in the triangle to “luminance”.
Reply
6.4.1) Betty
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 4:02 AM
I think Rick Keller puts it very well when he says “ISO affects the amount of exposure that is needed to achieve the desired effect”.
As long as a beginner understands that what is being achieved is an effect rather than a real change in exposure, then that is as much as they
need to know – until such time as they find they wish to know more.
If something along these lines had been said in the article, the ensuing discussion would have been unnecessary.
That said, apart from this one deviation, Elizabeth’s article is a model of clarity which it would be difficult to improve upon.
Reply
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 6:47 AM
RE: your comment ” Elizabeth’s article is a model of clarity which it would be difficult to improve upon.”
Well not taking away from Elizabeth’s effort, comments like the one below may leave one with the impression that the JPG histogram or the
in-camera display reflects the actual raw exposure.
“If you are not paying attention to the camera display, it is easy to overlook settings that will cause underexposed or overexposed images”
Reply
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 7:19 AM
‘A’ for effort but not sure about the following: “model of clarity which it would be difficult to improve upon.”
The writer’s comment below would leave one with the impression that the JPG histogram or in-camera display reflects the raw exposure
“You do need to pay very close attention to your viewfinder display, though. It is easy to end up with overexposed and underexposed images”
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6.4.1.2.1) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 7:24 AM
Sorry for this duplicate comment above. It did not post immediately and I posted a similar comment.
Reply
6.4.1.2.2) Betty
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 11:53 AM
You are right of course but I am in enough trouble as it is….?
Reply
6.4.1.2.2.1) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 12:04 PM
Important thing is to enjoy your photography, continue the learning process, and avoid fake instruction :-)
Reply
6.4.2) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 5:42 AM
“I personally promise to wipe out every mention of the words “ISO sensitivity” from all articles on “this website and swap the third variable in the
triangle to “luminance”.”
That would be a very good start. However, not taking away from Betty’s skill set I believe an article coming from yourself would hold more
weight with your readers. This sight has too many good articles (as you referenced Mr Borg as an example) to perpetuate this exposure myth.
Thank you Nasim
Reply
6.5) Elizabeth
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 11:07 AM
Betty, I have been teaching for over 25 years, and have been practicing photography for over 40 years. And I take pride in the fact that I can explain
complicated subjects (structural design, calculus, and photography) in ways that are easy for the majority of people to understand. I have reviews
from hundreds of my students that back this up.
I value constructive feedback. I always try to put it to good use and learn from it. However, I find your approach to feedback far from constructive!
Luckily I have very thick skin and am passionate about teaching, so none of what you (or any of the other trolls) say will deter me from writing,
teaching or creating images.
The point of my paragraph on the exposure triangle was to highlight that there are three things you set on your camera which are responsible for
how your final image is “captured,” “exposed,” “revealed,” “created,” “recorded,” take your pick. I referred to the exposure triangle (which I did not
name or create) because it is commonly used to help illustrate this. I think most of the PL readers got this.
All that being said, I understand your point and have reworded that paragraph slightly, while still referring to the exposure triangle, to convey ISO
is not actually part of the “exposure” but is part of how the “exposure” is collected by the sensor. Bottom line is that shutter speed, aperture and
ISO can all be adjusted by the photographer through dials, buttons or menus on the camera.
Reply
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 11:31 AM
Wow. Someone questions you on the technical aspects of your article and they are immediately dismissed as trolls.
Reply
6.5.2) Betty
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 3:12 PM
Thankfully, I too have a thick skin and take no offence on this occasion at being called a troll.
I may be blunt in my comments but I don’t stoop to personal abuse.
No matter, I raised a valid and important point which I then went on to explain in some detail.
If that’s not constructive then please explain to me and the other ‘trolls’ who understand the science, how it could be made so.
Also, nobody is trying to “deter” you from anything.

Did you not read the praise I expressed for your article or are your knickers in such a twist that you are blind to it?
“Bottom line is that shutter speed, aperture and ISO can all be adjusted by the photographer through dials, buttons or menus on the camera.”
No, the bottom line is that photographers should understand what they are doing when they adjust those dials, buttons and menus instead of
just carrying out these adjustments by rote.
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6.6) Andy Miller

APRIL 3, 2017 AT 12:22 PM
Dear B — please don’t let me rain on your parade; but you are nuts and really rather boringly so.
So being you manifestly reduce understanding rather than improve it.
The way you present your case is not remotely clever or informative, rather it is arrogant and hostile. Have a little of humility.
The article is quite correct in that it is commonly and correctly understood that there are 3 variables that the photographer can change on his/her
camera to capture a particular scene on a film or digital sensor given a scene’s luminescence.
These three variables are commonly represented as an exposure triangle have been so for over 100 years. This is the common way of associating
the three variables that determine the exposure of a photograph: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.
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6.6.1) Pete A
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 1:17 PM
Luminescence:
QUOTE [retrieved from Wikipedia, 2017-04-03 19:06 UTC]
Luminescence is emission of light by a substance not resulting from heat; it is thus a form of cold-body radiation. It can be caused by chemical
reactions, electrical energy, subatomic motions, or stress on a crystal, which all are ultimately caused by Spontaneous emission. This
distinguishes luminescence from incandescence, which is light emitted by a substance as a result of heating. Historically, radioactivity was
thought of as a form of “radio-luminescence”, although it is today considered to be separate since it involves more than electromagnetic
radiation. The term ‘luminescence’ was introduced in 1888 by Eilhard Wiedemann.[1][2]
The dials, hands, scales, and signs of aviation and navigational instruments and markings are often coated with luminescent materials in a
process known as “luminising”.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminescence
END QUOTE
See also:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminance
Hope that helps,

Pete
Reply
6.6.2) Betty
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 1:46 PM
Andy
I may be nuts (the jury’s out) but from the discussion it would seem I am anything but boring.
You might care to read Nasim, BET and Rick Keller’s comments before committing your ignorance to paper.
Besides just parroting the commonly held myth about ‘exposure triangles’, you appear not to be able to distinguish luminance from
luminescence.
Put simply, luminance has to do with light intensity per unit area given out when a black body is heated.
Luminescence has to do with the light given out in the absence of heat – commonly by primitive creatures which live in perpetual darkness.
Err..penny dropped..that may explain it.
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6.6.2.1) Pete A
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 3:15 PM
I highly recommend:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photometry_(optics)#Photometric_quantities
Especially the entry, and its links, in “Table 1. SI photometry quantities”:

Luminous exposure; symbol Hv; SI unit name: lux second; SI unit symbol: lx·s; SI dimension symbol: L⁻²·T·J.
Reply
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 2:19 PM
Andy,
You call someone nuts, boring, not clever, uninformative, and arrogant; and then you ask them to have a little of humility. lol
Then you state “three variables that determine the exposure of a photograph: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.”
All I can do it quote back to you your own words: “not remotely clever or informative,”
Reply
7) Merlin Marquardt
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 1:37 PM
Well, maybe, but for any given luminance, in order to get the “correct” or appropriate brightness or exposure on the film or sensor, the shutter speed
and/or aperture must be adjusted, so for any given luminance the three factors that can be adjusted are the shutter speed and the aperture and the
film or sensor sensitivity or iso. Isn’t this in part just semantics?
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8) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 3:34 PM
Sorry Elizabeth. I stopped reading this article after section 1. Exposure Triangle.
If you do not know what ISO is, how do you expect to explain auto-ISO?
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9) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 3:42 PM
Please see Betty’s reply
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10) Rick
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 3:58 PM
Does no good deed (b log post) go unpunished? Trolls be gone! :)
Reply
10.1) Betty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 4:31 PM
Rick
The article per se is excellent and explains the technique of using auto ISO very well indeed.
However, it is contains an important misunderstanding of exposure.
This has been corrected.
A correction is not a punishment and in no way detracts from the value of the article.
I find it disappointing that you think of it that way.
Try to think of it as added value.
Reply
10.2) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 6:06 PM
Rick, I may have been blunt, but I can assure you my intention was definitely not to troll. I was just pointing out a major error on what exposure is.
Reply
10.2.1) Betty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 6:11 PM
BogusExposureTriangle
I thought Rick’s comment was aimed at me, so thanks for taking the bullet.
I second your reply.
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11) Steve Sanders

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 4:59 PM
I, for one, not dwelling in Our Betty’s (and others) illuminated photographical stratosphere, am very appreciative of Elizabeths’ hard work in preparing
this article for those of us who haven’t had the time or opportunity to master all the nuances of the triangle/triad/scene luminance. To a primitive
man such as myself, how to control luminance is more important than what it’s called. I’ll modify my ISO shooting based on these helpful tips. I
appreciate all the many talented photographers who contribute their knowledge to PL.
Thanks, Elizabeth.
Reply
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 5:30 PM
“how to control luminance ”
Adding supplemental lighting or using diffusers/reflectors etc. is very helpful in controlling luminance. ISO however is not an aid in controlling
luminance.
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11.1.1) Betty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 5:39 PM
Bingo!
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11.2) Betty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 5:33 PM
Steve
I am not knocking the article.
I have already said it’s an excellent guide to auto ISO technique.
Her preferred use of Manual + Auto ISO exactly mirrors my own.
However, understanding what is going on is important – otherwise we just reduce ourselves to uncomprehending button pushers.
Reply
11.2.1) Steve Sanders

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 7:27 PM
Can’t dispute that, and I always learn from your constructive comments. I never heard the term “scene luminance ” until you used it above. And
the combo of Manual and AUTO ISO is what I gleaned from the article that I plan to use more than I have in the past. What ruffled my primitive
feathers was the negative tone from some (not you, who offered valuable input) who were quick to snear while offering nothing of value. I felt
the author deserved better for her efforts. Brought out the Guardian Angle in me. Thanks for your comments.
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11.2.1.1) Steve Sanders

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 7:29 PM
Oops. guardian Angel?
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11.3) Elizabeth
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 11:10 AM
Thanks very much, Steve! I appreciate your comment and am glad that you learned something on Auto ISO from the article.
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12) Robert
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 8:26 PM
I for one appreciate the explanation provided by Betty. I believe it is appropriate that we understand the technical terms used in photography. What I
didn’t appreciate is the tone of the correction and the use of negative words such as “nonsense”, “sloppy thinking”, “muddled” reasoning, “muddle
along in their foggy world”, etc. This correction, which is useful to know, could have been couched without the condescending tone that is evident
throughout.
I do appreciate the article and believe that many will find it extremely useful.
Reply
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 9:33 PM
Robert,
You may find the word ‘nonsense’ offensive however the Oxford Dictionary defines nonsense as “spoken or written words that have no meaning or
make no sense”. The Oxford Dictionary further defines muddled “Not clear or coherent; confused.”
Given the authors explanation of exposure both words seems quite appropriate.
While you may not appreciate the tone of correction, others do not appreciate seeing others being misinformed
Reply
12.1.1) Steve Sanders

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 10:06 PM
I agree with Robert. Politeness goes a lot further than superior posturing. That’s what got me started commenting today.
Reply
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 10:32 PM
Steve,
Would you not say that your comment about not dwelling in the ” illuminated photographical stratosphere” can also be misinterpreted as
impolite and superior posturing.
Not wishing to possibly offend others or hijack this thread I will leave it at that.
Reply
12.1.1.1.1) Steve Sanders

APRIL 2, 2017 AT 11:32 PM
Well said! It could and it should. Absolutely. My pathetic attempt at satire to call attention to what I perceived as an unnecessary attack on
the author. A faded Lancelot with graying steed and rusting armor. Correct if you must, as you should. But do so with grace, not with scorn.
Robert said it best, and if said sooner would have spared me from tumbling from the heights of my efforts. Thank you for a perceptive
observation, Mr. BET. I sign off with the fear that I’ve tumbled down the rabbit hole and fallen into the mire of some of the Nikon Rumors
crowd. If so, I beg forgiveness.
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12.1.1.1.1.1) James Gifford-Mead

APRIL 3, 2017 AT 3:44 AM
This is a really useful post, thanks for sharing!
Reply
12.1.1.1.1.2) Elizabeth
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 11:12 AM
LOL!
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13) Visty
APRIL 2, 2017 AT 11:51 PM
Brilliantly explained.
Reply
13.1) Elizabeth
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 11:12 AM
Thank you, Visty. Glad I could help!
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14) Matthew Bell

APRIL 3, 2017 AT 12:53 AM
Elizabeth. .. Thank you for taking the time to write and post this article. As a newcomer to photography it really is a great help. ☺
Reply
14.1) Elizabeth
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 11:14 AM
No problem, Matthew. And thanks so much for your feedback. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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15) Finnegan Wolf

APRIL 3, 2017 AT 6:12 AM
I’ve only been shooting since the 90s, but we called it ISO then, as well. Great article!
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15.1) Elizabeth
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 11:23 AM
Thanks, Finnegan.
Not to date myself, but in the 70’s it was ASA! ASA stands for American Standards Association, who defined how film speed was measured back in
the 1940’s. In the 1970’s the ASA designation was combined with the ISO standards (International Organization for Standardization) and is the
standard used today in the digital world.
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15.1.1) Pete A
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 1:42 PM
Not to date myself either, but in the 60’s it was ASA :-)
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16) David Burns

APRIL 3, 2017 AT 6:13 AM
Interesting as always and one of the joys of Photography Life is that it is mostly free from trolls and unpleasant people with personality defects. That
of course does not mean that a frank discussion cannot be pursued…. but nicely, as has happened here I would say.
Does this help? E=IT
[E] stands for exposure, meaning the total ‘quantity’ of light that gets to the sensor/film. Yes, ‘quantity’ is not a precise technical term here but it does
the job.
[I] stands for Illumination (the brightness of the light reaching the sensor/film). There are two contributors to this: the ‘brightness’ of the light from
outside the camera (ambient light level, flash etc.) AND the aperture of the lens- the larger the aperture, the greater the contribution to the total
brightness at the sensor/film.
[T] then stands for time, ie. the length of time that the ‘brightness’ from outside the camera is allowed to fall on the sensor/film. The shutter speed.
[E] Total quantity of light at the sensor/film is therefore made up of two factors, the brightness of light projected through the lens and how long it is
allowed to enter for. Simples!
ISO? That is a constant in this simple equation for a given photograph and merely dictates the required ‘quantity’ of light necessary to achieve a
correct exposure. In other words, it defines the quantity of [E] that is required for a given photograph. As Betty has said, it does not in any way
contribute to the exposure, merely defining the ‘quantity’ of light required. Thus if the ISO is low (ISO 64), the required quantity of light represented
by [E] will be high and the contributors ([I] and [T]) will also need to be high (bright ambient light, large aperture, slow shutter speed or combinations
thereof). The opposite will of course be true for a high ISO such as ISO 6,400.
Then there is the bucket and hose theory/explanation but maybe that is for another day! Apologies if this is too simple an explanation in this
discussion!
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16.1) Betty
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 3:50 AM
Thanks.
Nicely put.
And yes, it is simples – or at least not so difficult that the average photographer could not understand.
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16.1.1) Matteo
APRIL 11, 2017 AT 9:54 PM
Yes Ms Betty, it is simple and well understandable the way Mr. Burns has explained it.
I’m an amateur photographer (below average) and technically I can understand about 10% to 15% of what you guys explained here. But, Mr.
Burns really made it simple. Now, if I say that ISO is useless (up to a certain degree) am I crazy or did I get it right? The job is done by Aperture
and Time (shutter speed).
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16.1.1.1) Betty
APRIL 12, 2017 AT 9:33 AM
Matteo
ISO is not useless exactly, it just does not contribute to the exposure.
The Exposure job is done by Aperture, Shutter Speed and Luminance (the intensity of the light).
ISO describes how sensitive the film or sensor is to that light and therefore the quantity of light needed to make a correct exposure.
Reply
16.1.1.1.1) Matteo
APRIL 12, 2017 AT 7:30 PM
Thank you Ms Betty.

Of course, ISO is not useless. What I meant is that, like at the time of film, ASA were fixed and you need to play between aperture and
shutter in order to achieve your vision on a particular given light condition.
Basically I do not think there is much change now that we all have a DSLR. Personally I try to keep my ISO always at native settings (or up to
where I know it does not introduce noise) and I change it only if I cannot firm hold the camera when I need more exposure time.
Thanks to everyone and to the author, although the basic topic has been changed, a bit, in all these discussions/comments :-)
Reply
16.1.1.1.1.1) Pete A
APRIL 13, 2017 AT 10:17 AM
Matteo,
I agree with your camera technique, but only in the context of your previous statement: “I’m an amateur photographer (below average)
and technically I can understand about 10% to 15% of what you guys explained here.”
I sincerely admire you for your honesty, your humility, and your endeavour to do your very best with your current knowledge.
In case you (or another reader) is interested, here are my (overly-simplified) distinctions between a hobbyist photographer and a
professional photographer:
Hobbyist photographer: a person who enjoys buying and using photographic equipment, and is devoted to continually learning how to
get the best technical image quality from it; and discovering first-hand the limitations of their equipment for the joy of being able to
justify their desire to purchase new equipment.
Professional photographer: a person who is devoted to understanding the requirements of, and the viewing conditions of, their clients /
intended audience before pressing the camera shutter button.
In other words:
Hobbyist photographer: What can the latest camera equipment do for me? [The egocentric plus technology-centric approach — the
primary targets of all marketing departments!].
Professional photographer: What does my audience what me to do for them? [The audience-centric approach].
Example…
A hobbyist photographer finally manages to achieve their goal: the purchases a state-of-the-art 50 megapixel camera, and a collection of
the sharpest lenses available. This photographer sets the controls such that the equipment will deliver the best possible compromise
between depth of field and diffraction. Yes, this photographer has finally learnt how to master the very best technology. This
photographer sends their superb images to a famous author who’s in the process of writing a new book. The images are rejected by the
author because their depth of field, when printed in the book at the required 4×3 inches makes them look completely flat and lifeless
due to them having an infinite depth of field at this required reproduction ratio [aka: imaging scale]. Oops!
Absolutely no criticism intended in the above: I’ve taken the time to write this comment just in case it saves a reader from suffering
unnecessary financial hardships and/or other regrets.
Best wishes,
Pete
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16.2) Pete A
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 6:00 AM
David, That was a good explanation. Below, I’ve rewritten your equation using the SI photometry quantities and units…
The luminous exposure of a surface [the film/sensor in this case], symbol Hv, is given by
Hv = Ev·t lux seconds, where
Ev is the illuminance of the surface in lux;

t is the exposure duration in seconds.
NB: the “v” suffixes indicate that quantities are “visual” photometric quantities, rather than radiometric quantities.
Illuminance, Ev, is the luminance flux incident on the film/sensor. In this case, 1 lux = 1 lumen per square metre.
Luminous energy, Qv, has the unit name: lumen second. Therefore the luminous energy incident on the film/sensor is given by
Qv = Hv multiplied by the area of the film/sensor in square metres.
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17) Jim
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 10:52 AM
I know it’s pointless to weigh on this, but I can’t help myself. Betty is correct and there is no reason not to rephrase the article slightly to provide
accurate definitions, not even Nasim’s suggestion that people aren’t smart enough to understand or care. (By the way I understand about 10% of
what Iliah says but I have worked hard at it and have learned as a result). As Betty points out, the article itself is well written regarding auto ISO. Why
not make it correct re exposure and provide the PL audience an important teaching point that really isn’t that difficult, except that it contradicts
conventional “wisdom”? The recent article on ISO Invariance, a far more difficult concept, is a great example of what the standard could/should be.
Reply
17.1) Betty
APRIL 3, 2017 AT 12:17 PM
Thanks.
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18) Matthew Currie

APRIL 3, 2017 AT 8:52 PM
I will not involve myself in the technical argument here, but would add that for at least the D3200, and possibly for other low end Nikons, there is an
undocumented feature of auto ISO that one should be aware of.
When you set the upper limit of Auto ISO in the menu, not only will auto ISO never rise above it, but manual selections made when Auto ISO is on will
not. The selections will be shown on the ISO setting display, but when you take a picture it will be at the maximum you set in the menu, not the ISO
you chose. That setting does not affect manual ISO choice at all when Auto is off, but when Auto is on, the limit set cannot be overridden. So, for
example, if you wanted to set the auto range to max out at ISO 800 (which is noisy enough on a D3200), and suddenly came across a scene that
required a jump to 3200, you’d find that value on the ISO setting dial, but the picture would be taken at 800, and nothing in the camera will tell you
until you read the EXIF info,
This is not the case on the D7100. I don’t know whether it is the case on any but the D3x00 family, but I found it a nuisance, given that one has to go
to the menu to toggle the Auto function.
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18.1) Betty
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 4:14 AM
Why are you surprised that an Auto feature continues to work until you turn it off?
So yes, the Auto feature can only be overridden by turning it off.
This is true of all Nikon DSLRs as far as I am aware.
You can set whatever ISO you like (say 1600) using the ISO button and scroll wheel, but if Auto ISO is enabled and set to another value (say 400)
then that’s what you will get regardless of your other manual setting.
Only when you switch off Auto ISO and revert to either Manual or one of the other Auto modes will you get back the ISO you set manually.
Reply
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 8:34 AM
Mathew,
I’d like to clarify one point in your comments.
“max out at ISO 800 (which is noisy enough on a D3200)”
Simple explanation:
It is not the ISO 800 that is causing the noise. It is the lack of exposure that introduces the noise.
Slightly more technical explination:

Raising ISO in many cameras (‘ISO-full’) in fact reduces the noise by increasing the signal. I.e. the S/N or signal to noise ratio. There however is little
benefit in raising the ISO in ‘ISO-less’ cameras
Reply
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 8:50 AM
Mathew,
I should add that for your D3200, it becomes ISO-less very quickly and there is little benefit to raising ISO beyond ISO200 to ISO 400. Brightness
can be added in post-processing
Should you wish to look at a more technical ‘explanation’ see the following link:
http://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR_Shadow.htm#Nikon%20D3200
Reply
18.2.1.1) Matthew Currie

APRIL 4, 2017 AT 2:47 PM
I will try to respond to the last three or so here:
First of all, if you have Auto ISO set on some cameras, of which the D7100 is one, and you specify a starting ISO higher than the menu
maximum, I am pretty sure it will shoot at the ISO you set, despite the maximum. I’m without cameras at the moment to try that but as I recall
I did. This is not the case on the D3200, where no manual setting will override the menu max unless you turn off Auto ISO altogether.
Second, my experience with the Nikon D3200 is that high ISO is just plain noisy, even with correct exposure, Very good exposure will still look
grainy and have poor edge definition at high ISO. It is true that the D3200 is not ISO-less, and shooting at the correct ISO is generally better
than underexposing and correcting later, but that does not make the high ISO quiet, only less noisy.
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18.2.1.1.1) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 3:14 PM
Not owning the D3200 I can only defer to your experience and expertise on the camera.
The only comment I can make is on the term “correct exposure”. As long as you are not totally relying on the JPG in-camera histogram as
displayed to determine exposure (can be off by 1-2+ stops etc.); but it sounds like you are quite aware of this.
Good to know. Thanks Matthew
Reply
18.2.1.1.2) Burghclerebilly
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 3:38 PM
Hi Matthew,
Yes, correct for the D7100 (and probably all advanced Nikons as I just checked my D500 & D4S). If Auto-ISO is set to maximum of say 1000,
and you move the ISO dial to say 1600, it will shoot at 1600 and correctly expose. This seems sensible, effectively allowing you to make an
emergency increase in ISO without fiddling your Auto-ISO settings, although I can’t say I’ve ever used it as I run Auto-ISO to 9000 normally.
I haven’t used the D3200, but it doesn’t surprise me that it doesn’t do that because many of the functions are supposed to be simplified for
beginner’s use.
On Canon bodies, the ISO dial runs Auto, 100, 200…. so if you select a specific ISO you automatically turn off Auto-ISO. The assumption
being that if you’re using Auto-ISO, you will be happy with the lowest ISO available that gives you the desired aperture and shutter speed.
Although I mostly shoot Nikon, I find this Canon set-up more elegant.
Reply
18.2.1.1.2.1) Betty
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 6:57 PM
Burghclerebilly
I believe you are mistaken.
If you set Auto ISO to 1000 that is what you will get regardless of what manual setting you input subsequently. If you manually enter
1600, the display will show 1600 but the camera will still use 1000.
On the D800E if you set Auto ISO 1000 and then try to enter 1600 manually, a warning even comes up in the menu – “Value for
maximum sensitivity will be used”.
Exposure will still be correct however, as the camera will alter shutter speed or aperture to ensure that happens.
This is normal Nikon behaviour.
If you want to override the Auto ISO setting you can do this by dialling in compensation or switching Auto ISO off and changing ISO
manually.
Switching off Auto ISO can be done quickly (on D800E at least) by pressing the ISO button and rotating the subcommand dial.
Alternatively, you can program the Fn button (Custom f4) access the top menu item in My Menu and make the top item display ISO
settings. It’s not ideal but better than trawling through the entire menu.
If you normally like to shoot at or below say 800 (and set max Auto ISO at 800) but want an emergency ISO of say 3200, then set 3200
manually and shoot Auto ISO (which will be limited to 800). Then when that emergecy arises you can switch off Auto ISO and you will
have ISO 3200 available.
Personally I just dial in the required compensation as it covers all eventualities – increased shutter speed, wider aperture, changing light
and changing in frame tonality such as white bird, shooting against the sky, etc.
Reply
18.2.1.1.2.1.1) Matthew Currie

APRIL 4, 2017 AT 7:32 PM
I guess it varies on different models. On the D3200, it does indeed not allow you to shoot above the max. set, but there is no warning
that this will happen, and no indication of what the ISO will be when it’s on auto. The higher ISO values are still shown as available. On
the D7100, you can manually set a higher value, as far as I recall, but not having one at hand I can’t stake my life on it. Having lived
with the D3200 for a few years I just got out of the habit of using auto ISO anyway, because it’s inconvenient to switch. I may get back
into the habit with the D7100, because it’s so much easier to toggle.
I do generally use the JPG histogram, while realizing it’s not entirely accurate, but even stretching things a little and trying many
different exposures both within and without it, it seems better to go with the assigned ISO than to underexpose under about ISO 1600,
and by that time ISO noise has already gotten difficult for some things, as the noise has begun to nibble away edges. It’s fine for many
things, but for wildlife, and especially if one has to crop, it’s pretty dirty. It is pretty flat above 1600, but most of the time when I need it
that high, I’m not so worried about noise anyway, doing people indoors or the like, where the results are not so bad.
Reply
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.1) Betty
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 5:39 AM
“I guess it varies on different models”
No, it doesn’t because it can’t.

To explain…
If you think about it, the two features have to be mutually exclusive to work. Either one works or the other works. Most auto
features override manual ones (aperture priority, shutter priority,etc) but if they both override each other nothing works. If setting
manual ISO overrode Auto ISO, Auto ISO would be unusable as whatever ISO was set manually would prevent Auto ISO working at
all.
You are thinking it would be useful to be able to override Auto ISO ‘on command’ by manually setting an ISO value of your choice.
But what about the rest of the time?
The camera is a dumb machine and doesn’t know your intentions.
What happens when you do want Auto ISO to work but you already have ISO set manually? Oops.
The one way around this might be to have Auto ISO only work from base ISO and then setting another ISO value manually could be
made to cancel Auto ISO.
But this has a drawback in that many photographers don’t use base ISO but prefer a higher starting point (160, 320, 400,etc) as this
can give them a higher ‘starting’ shutter speed and/or reduced noise (depending on the ISO variance of the camera).
Canon may do this because their sensors are notoriously not ISO invariant, so having Auto ISO set the lowest possible ISO value has
advantages and cancelling it by setting a different value manually becomes (hopefully) a considered choice.
Regarding the JPEG histogram, you are right, it’s not accurate but it’s the best we have at the moment. Some time ago Nikon
promised a firmware update to allow the display of the RAW histogram but, as with so many Nikon promises, it has failed to
materialise. I am hoping that in this ‘millennium’ year they may finally get around to it or at least incorporate it their new models.
I don’t have experience with the D3200 but if, as many say, it gets noisy quickly at higher ISO’s, you are better off keeping ISO in a
lower range.
Reply
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.1.1) Pete A
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 8:54 AM
Betty, I’m guessing that you’ve never experimented with Auto ISO on a Nikon Df. It can do some interesting things that are not
documented in its User Manual :-)
(I’m not at all sure that “interesting” was the correct word!)
Reply
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.1.1.1) Betty
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 3:08 PM
Frustrating?
It seems every model has its own list of endearing quirks.
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.1.2) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 1:06 PM
Betty,
“Regarding the JPEG histogram, …… it’s the best we have

at the moment”
Actually that is not 100% accurate: Do a google search on “Uni While Balance Iliah Borg”
Reply
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.1.2.1) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 1:07 PM
oops . Should read ““Uni White Balance Iliah Borg””
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.1.2.2) Betty
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 7:31 PM
Agreed…but it’s not bad if everything if everything that might interfere with the JPEG display in the LCD display is turned off or
set to Flat or Neutral and colour space set to AdobeRGB.
Yes, UniWB is best but it’s complicated to implement (yes, I know one can download a canned file) but I can’t stomach the
bilious green that results (hard to make any aesthetic judgments).
Also, although it doesn’t apply to my photography, to achieve a truly neutral image in post process one would need to also
shoot a grey card for comparison? (Not sure about that.)
Besides, ISO-less sensors and post-processing software are getting so good that uniWB is looking less and less relevant to
everyday shooting.
Always happy to be shot down…
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.1.2.3) BogusExposureTriangle
APRIL 6, 2017 AT 1:02 PM
“Always happy to be shot down”
Wish people would not take my comments on a subject as criticizing including the author of this article.
“Besides, ISO-less sensors and post-processing software are getting so good that uniWB is looking less and less relevant to
everyday shooting.”
One uses UNIWB to maximise exposure and this still has a role to play regardless of how good sensors are or PP is. As long as
cameras display erroneous JPG histogram etc. there will always be this need for certain people trying to squeeze out the most
from their equipment. Why leave a technological gain made in a new sensor on the table.
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.1.2.4) Betty
APRIL 7, 2017 AT 5:10 PM
BogusExposureTriangle
Agree with all you say but I still can’t get on with green images!
I look on having one’s beliefs challenged as an opportunity to learn something new – not an opportunity to quell cognitive
dissonance by regurgitating pseudo-scientific hogwash or launching personal attacks on the critic.
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.2) Burghclerebilly
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 6:16 AM
As this seemed a bit weird, I checked my D500 again with all settings and exposure modes, to the extent that for the first time in 9
months use, I had a camera lock-up! No worries, battery removal seems to have cleared it.
In all exposure modes, you can set an ISO figure higher than the maximum you have set in Auto-ISO, which will be applied as
follows. In P, A and S modes, your selected ISO will be effective at any exposure level. The camera will adjust aperture, shutter or
both depending on which mode you are in, to give you it’s correct exposure at the precise high ISO figure you have dialled in, up
until fully closed aperture and/or minimum shutter speed, when the camera will lower your selected ISO to prevent over-exposure.
So the camera is essentially making any ISO selection higher than max Auto-ISO the first priority.
In Manual mode, a high ISO above Auto-ISO Max will only be applied if your manual settings are already under-exposing the
correct exposure, and the higher ISO will only be applied until a correct exposure is achieved. So, for example, if your max Auto-ISO
is 800 and your aperture and shutter speed settings are showing 1-stop underexposure at 800; and then you raise the ISO dial to
3200, the camera will only raise ISO to 1600 to give you a correct exposure; it will not overexpose. If you originally have a correct
exposure within your Auto-ISO range, then changing the ISO dial to a higher figure has no effect. So the camera retains your shutter
and aperture settings (and minimum ISO) as the highest priority. Basically, selecting an ISO above max Auto-ISO when in Manual
mode just raises the max Auto-ISO.
At least that’s what happens with a D500 and D4s. According to a website on the D7000, the max Auto-ISO figure was never
exceeded even if you dialled in a higher figure, so looks like there have been some changes over the years.
Reply
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.2.1) Burghclerebilly
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 7:49 AM
P.S. I just checked my D3S and that would not let me go above the Max Auto-ISO, and gave the warning that Betty mentioned on
the Auto-ISO page, so there’s clearly been a recent update.
Not sure that I have any real preference as I tend to run Auto-ISO to 9000, but I suppose it would be interesting to know from
any D750/810 users whether the warning appears and the limit applies in those models, or if they allow shooting above the Max
Auto-ISO.
Reply
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.2.1.1) Burghclerebilly
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 8:10 AM
P.P.S. And Page 126 of the D500 manual confirms this is the functionality: ‘If the User sets an ISO above the Max Auto-ISO, the
User’s setting will be applied.’ Which compares to the D3S manual which states that setting an ISO above Max-ISO will not be
effective.
Typically, the manual doesn’t go on to explain the precise functioning on the D500 that I mentioned above for Manual
exposure mode.
Similarly, I still can’t tell if Recaptcha treats a pole as part of a street sign!
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.2.2) Betty
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 3:05 PM
Burghclerebilly
Yes it’s confusing but you are right – and I am only half right – or should that be half wrong?
The D800 manual says “if the value selected for Maximum Sensitivity is lower than the the value currently selected for ISO
Sensitivity, the value selected for Maximum Sensitivity will be used”
That is to say, the higher manually input value will not override Auto ISO and will be ignored.
It goes on..
” In modes P and A sensitivity will be adjusted if underexposure would result at the shutter speed selected for Minimum Shutter
Speed”
“In M and S modes, ISO will be adjusted for optimal exposure at the shutter speed selected by the user”
So the D800 seems to be a sort of half way house. It ignores a manual override but adjusts ISO if underexposure will result. That’s
a good thing I guess but it would be nice if Nikon made it clearer and taking a leaf from Fuji’s book applied any improvements or
changes as a firmware update over a broad range of models.
Overall it’s a bit of a bugger’s muddle. If I am misunderstanding my manual and someone knows better, a clarifying comment
would be welcome.
For the most part it makes little difference to me as I shoot Manual or Manual + ISO most of the time. My interest is almost
exclusively wildlife so I want total control of aperture and shutter speed and am content to let ISO float within sensible limits. I
don’t want the camera to mess with aperture or shutter speed. In auto modes the variables are potentially greater and even more
unpredictable.
However well done you for not giving in and doing the sleuthing.
We seem to have opened a Pandora’s box.
Reply
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.2.2.1) Brian Gaschler

APRIL 5, 2017 AT 3:55 PM
Hi Betty,
Yeah, Nikon could surely update its firmware over a large amount of cameras to help add consistency to the Auto ISO
functions of different models. As mentioned above regarding the Df, which I use, what I originally saw as a Auto ISO flaw in M
mode (which is what I prefer to shoot in) has become a welcomed benefit now, once I learned how to set the menu correctly. It
goes something like this:
We know that once Auto ISO is selected to “ON” the camera will select the ISO needed for correct exposure. This is achieved
until it the camera needs to get lower than the Df’s base ISO of 100, or greater than the “Maximum Sensitivity” value selected
in the menu. Anything beyond these settings will result in either over or under exposure. For example, if the user-defined
“Maximum Sensitivity” is set in the menu to ISO 3200, the ISO dial on the Df serves no purpose, so long as the dial is set to a
value below ISO 3200. This is where I was frustrated with Auto ISO and the ISO dial. However, working backwards, from the
menu out, has an interesting and beneficial result.
Again, in M mode, if the user sets the menu value of “Maximum Sensitivity” to it’s lowest value (which on the Df is ISO 200),
THEN, the ISO dial be in control of defining the greater ISO value that heretofore depended on the Menu setting. This rule
applies so long as the dial is above ISO 200. Now, the photographer can adjust the maximum ISO sensitivity with the dial
alone, to any value s/he wishes — ISO 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, etc. — without needing to enter into the menu. The result is
full control over aperture and shutter speed, with the camera selecting the ISO value for neutral exposure up to the limits set
on the dial, at which point it will reduce shutter speed. Setting the minimum shutter speed in the menu does nothing for
shooting with Auto ISO in M mode, so this setting can be ignored. If the camera meter relays an ISO of 100 for a neutral (read
“correct,” although that word is subjective, no?) exposure at, say, 1/250 sec @f/8, then it will automatically take the shot at ISO
100 — even though the menu is set to the minimum ISO 200 sensitivity and the dial is set to ISO 3200. Changing the shutter to
1/500 sec, it changes ISO to 200; Changing the shutter to 1/1000 sec, it changes it to ISO 400; and so on, until the limit ISO
3200 set on the dial. Then is will begin to underexpose.
Anyway, I found this workaround quite interesting and now, quite desirable a set-up, as I can quickly and easily set the limits of
ISO without going in to a menu setting.
I wish to also thank you for clarifying earlier the misconception people have over ISO and what it does. I recall learning my
mistakes about that a while back from a previous post by Mr. Borg and thinking, “Oh jeez… well, that actually makes sense.” I
don’t think it’s being pedantic to point out to people that their wording or understanding of an essential concept is inaccurate.
There: we once again agree on something :)
Best,
Brian
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.2.2.2) Brian Gaschler

APRIL 5, 2017 AT 4:01 PM
Opps… when I wrote above that “the result is full control over aperture and shutter speed, with the camera selecting the ISO
value for neutral exposure up to the limits set on the dial, at which point it will reduce shutter speed,” I meant to say it will
reduce EXPOSURE and underexpose, NOT reduce shutter speed. In M mode, the shutter speed stays constant, as does the
aperture.
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.2.2.3) Pete A
APRIL 6, 2017 AT 3:02 AM
Hi Brian,
Thanks for your explanation of Auto ISO on the Df. I discovered this counter-intuitive way of setting it due to my frustration
with the way Auto ISO works on most cameras.
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.2.2.4) Betty
APRIL 6, 2017 AT 6:26 AM
Brian
It seems that almost every model behaves differently which is a pain – especially for those who have a second camera as back
up for foreign trips. With action and wildlife photography, unfamiliarity with one’s gear is a recipe for missed shots. I am lucky
in that I am able to have two identical cameras but for those who can’t it’s another unwelcome complication to have to deal
with.
It’s good that you and a couple of others have taken the trouble to untangle the settings for their model and passed on their
findings – so they don’t have to.
ISO – yes, it’s widely misunderstood and one misunderstanding often leads to another. Luckily we have Mr Borg to cast light
on our collective darkness.
18.2.1.1.2.1.1.2.2.5) Burghclerebilly
APRIL 6, 2017 AT 1:06 PM
Thanks Betty,
Yes, it is probably a poor Japanese translation that makes the manual unclear. The first sentence about not being able to raise
ISO above the Auto-ISO range (for your D800, my D3S and most others) is the only sentence that refers to the situation of
setting such an ISO level. The following 2 sentences relate just to the general operation of Auto-ISO, where of course the ISO
will vary up to your max to give you the correct exposure with your aperture and/or shutter selection. Nikon should have put in
a paragraph break to avoid confusion by these somewhat opposing sentences.
So I think you’re getting what you’re after. In Manual mode or Manual with Auto-ISO, the aperture and shutter will not ever
change, and on most bodies, ISO will not be moveable above the Auto-ISO max.
For those bodies that have the function to set and use an ISO above Auto-ISO max, it’s use should be pretty rare (most people
will set a fairly high Auto-ISO max), although I like the sound of the adaptation Brian mentions to make the ISO dial effectively
an Auto ISO dial.
For completeness, I also noted that when you dial in a higher ISO than Auto-ISO max, and the camera uses it (has to raise fully
up to it in manual mode), it is shown in the standard white on the playback information screens, and on the backscreen info
display the Auto-ISO label is constant. When the camera can raise ISO in manual mode above Auto-ISO max and achieve a
correct exposure, but does not require to increase up to the level you have set, the playback file shows a red ISO label and the
Auto-ISO figure flashes in the backscreen info view. So you still can see when the precise ISO has been chosen by the camera,
and not yourself.
18.3) Betty
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 7:00 PM
This is normal Nikon behaviour.
Reply
18.4) Betty
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 7:05 PM
All of this is normal Nikon behaviour.
Reply
19) John T
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 12:19 AM
Excellent article Elizabeth, thank you for sharing!
Reply
19.1) Elizabeth
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 1:39 PM
Glad you enjoyed it, John! Thanks for your feedback and happy shooting!
Reply
20) Burghclerebilly
APRIL 4, 2017 AT 2:49 PM
Great article Elizabeth.
Very useful information on the order that the ‘fixed’ settings are ‘sacrificed’, which is otherwise buried somewhere deep in the Nikon
manuals/websites.
Would be interesting to know if the Canon DSLRs follow the same progression.
Reply
20.1) Elizabeth
APRIL 6, 2017 AT 3:21 PM
Thanks! I’m not a Canon shooter, but I believe they work in a similar way, especially the newer and higher end models. Thanks again for your
comment.
Reply
21) Carlos
APRIL 5, 2017 AT 2:35 PM
“You’re overthinking ISO — it’s just a way for your camera to capture more light when it’s dark out.” ;)
– Spencer Cox
Reply
22) Chris Harrison

APRIL 6, 2017 AT 5:55 AM
Good article. The reluctance of some manufacturers to implement ‘advanced’ features such as minimum shutter speed in Auto ISO is a major
annoyance of mine.
I, like many others, shoot a large portion of a fast paced wedding day in Aperture Priority, Auto ISO with ceiling to taste, and crucially, a minimum
shutter speed that will eliminate pretty much all movement (1/200, for example). It just works, and with the high ISO abilities of say, a D750, it’s not
the end of the world if you didn’t actually need 1/200 and the higher ISO value that came with it.
Sony offer minimum shutter speed control on their a7RII, but do not on the a7/a7ii despite it presumably being an easy firmware fix. Panasonic don’t
bother full stop, Olympus requires a fudge of other settings to get something similar working in practice.
Reply
23) Betty
APRIL 6, 2017 AT 6:29 AM
Only Fuji seem to have taken support to another level with their retrospective firmware updates for all models old and new.
Highly commendable – and I am sure they are reaping the benefits in customer loyalty and new business.
Reply
23.1) Robert
APRIL 9, 2017 AT 3:23 PM
Hi Betty
Love your posts, language and all :-) Please do not change and keep them posts coming! I am learning and I do not want to (not knowingly) learn
wrong things and be confused later on, when those fundaments prove not quite correct… Saves lots of time. Many thanks!
Robert
Reply
23.1.1) Pete A
APRIL 9, 2017 AT 4:21 PM
Robert,
I echo your sentiments, and you have reminded me of this deeply-profound statement by Daniel C. Dennett:
“I listen to all these complaints about rudeness and intemperateness, and the opinion that I come to is that there is no polite way of asking
somebody: have you considered the possibility that your entire life has been devoted to a delusion? But that’s a good question to ask. Of course
we should ask that question and of course it’s going to offend people. Tough.”
Reply
23.1.2) Betty
APRIL 9, 2017 AT 5:59 PM
Robert
Thank you.
Some concepts in photography are difficult. There is much to learn and the journey is long enough without being misled along the way.
If it’s any consolation, I too, was (and still am), frequently confused!
However, if my comments and comments from those knowledgeable than me, can shorten the journey for some then that’s all to the good as
far as I am concerned.
The ignorati will always squeal when their bubble of dogmatic delusions is pricked with the pin of scientific fact.
Too bad.
Pete A
You hit the nail on the head – as usual.
Reply
24) Mark Pitsilos

MAY 5, 2017 AT 2:57 AM
Great article, thanks. :-)
I use manual mode with Auto-ISO extensively for casual shots, but there’s once case where I prefer to set the ISO explicitly even for such shots:
Since I often use spot metering, it’s very easy to get wildly different automatically chosen ISOs if you accidentally meter a few millimeters off your
intended metering target and end up with under or over exposed images.
In such a case I will often shoot with Auto-ISO first to get a properly exposed image, then use that selected ISO as a sensible starting point for further
pics in the same series (assuming similar lighting conditions).
Reply
25) Betty
MAY 5, 2017 AT 6:24 AM
Mark Pitsilos
I find what you are saying quite confusing.

I presume you mean you use Manual + Auto ISO mode with a different metering method (such as Matrix) to establish a starting ISO value and then
switch to full Manual mode with Spot?
It makes no sense, to me at least, to use Spot metering with Auto ISO (with the possible exception of constantly changing light conditions.)
Perhaps you could elaborate?
Reply
26) viktor
MAY 9, 2017 AT 12:55 AM
Where Are My Mid-tones? Deriving Hidden Baseline Exposure Compensation: https://photographylife.com/where-are-my-mid-tones-baseline-

exposure-compensation
Reply
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Understanding Auto ISO in Photography Page 1 of 40

HOME / PHOTOGRAPHY TUTORIALS / UNDERSTANDING AUTO ISO IN PHOTOGRAPHY

Understanding Auto ISO in Photography     5

1) The Exposure Triangle

3) What is Auto ISO?

4) Setting Up Auto ISO

5) Using Shooting Modes with Auto ISO

• The lens has apertures between f/2.8 and f/22.

5.1) Aperture Priority with Auto ISO

Aperture Shutter Speed ISO Comments

4 1/500 200 Shutter speed increases and min ISO is maintained.

8 1/125 200 Starting Point

11 1/125 400 To maintain min shutter speed ISO is increased.

16 1/125 800 To maintain min shutter speed ISO is increased.

22 1/125 1600 To maintain min shutter speed ISO is increased.

Aperture Shutter Speed ISO Comments

4 1/125 200 Starting Point.

5.6 1/125 400 To maintain min shutter speed ISO is increased.

8 1/125 800 To maintain min shutter speed ISO is increased.

11 1/125 1600 To maintain min shutter speed ISO is increased.

1Aperture Priority – User sets aperture based on the required depth of field.

5.2) Shutter Priority and Auto ISO

Aperture Shutter Speed ISO Comments

4 1/1000 200 Aperture increase while min ISO is maintained.

5.6 1/500 200 Aperture increase while min ISO is maintained.

8 1/250 200 Aperture increase while min ISO is maintained.

11 1/125 200 Starting Point.

16 1/60 200 Aperture decreases while min ISO is maintained.

Aperture Shutter Speed ISO Comments

2.8 1/4000 3200 Underexposes image.

Aperture Shutter Speed ISO Comments

2.8 1/500 800 Increases ISO because the aperture is wide open.

2.8 1/125 200 Starting Point.

4 1/60 200 Aperture decreases while min ISO is maintained.

5.3) Manual Mode and Auto ISO

Aperture Shutter Speed ISO Comments

4 1/250 200 Overexposed.

5.6 1/250 200 ISO decreased by three stops.

8 1/1000 1600 Starting point.

8 1/2000 3200 Increases ISO.

6) A Few Words about Using Exposure Compensation with Auto ISO

7) When to Use Auto ISO

8) When to Avoid Auto ISO

FILED UNDER: PHOTOGRAPHY TUTORIALS

Many thanks Elizabeth. In touch and clear.

Thanks, Vladimir. Glad you liked the article!

3.1) Merlin Marquardt

The exposure triad is often represented as an exposure triangle.

Great description and discussion.

Thanks, Merlin! Always appreciate your comments.

Thanks for you comments!

Exposure is not the same as perceived brightness.

6.1) Merlin Marquardt

Your reasoning is muddled.

6.1.1.1) Merlin Marquardt

So we should call it brightness control?

6.1.1.1.1.1) Merlin Marquardt

Yes, it makes sense.

6.1.1.1.1.1.1.1) Rui Cruz

Oh Betty, the expert-know-it-all-nothing is back…

Is that your contribution to the discussion Mark?

But she’s absolutely correct, so she does know this!

Thank you, Ralph.

6.2) Vladimir Khudyakov