Voyager Lace Stole In Baby
than a century ago stepped on a ship and
Cashmere
Designed by Shui Kuen Kozinski
and Benne Ferrell
Knit by Lorill Anderson
"Those who are not already able to knit a
sock or a mitt, will find some kind
neighbor ready and willing to teach
them, it will be nice work on the voyage
out…Every young woman is prized in
this country according to her
usefulness…In the new country to which
they are going, knowledge of the simple
art of knitting must form one of the
occupations of the females…who reside
in the agricultural portion of the
colony."(i)
The young women emigrants of more
began their voyage to a new home in
Canada. They brought with them their
skills as knitters and spinners and the
willingness to use those skills to clothe
their families. Despite the need for
utility items of clothing, they
incorporated creativity, skill and beauty
into the garments needed for warmth in
the cold Canadian winters.
The Voyager Lace Stole was designed
by two modern wilderness knitters with
thoughts of those women of the
Canadian wilderness long ago. It was
adapted from Mitten, Pattern #11, found
in Home Work, a Choice Collection of
Useful Designs for Crochet and Knitting
Needle.(ii)
The mitten pattern, which was knit in the
round, was modified to knit flat. The
heart shape motif for the body of the
stole is used for the edging and gives the
stole a balanced and wavy edge.
Sizes:
Small: 15" x 60", 5 x 13 + 8 = 73 st
Medium: 18" x 60", 7 x 13 + 8 = 99 st
(pictured above)
Large: 21" x 60", 9 x 13 + 8 = 125 st
Materials:
- 8, 9, 11 balls of elann.com Peruvian
Baby Cashmere
- 3.75 mm (US 5) straight or circular
needle
Gauge:
21-22 st/ 4" – gauge is not critical
Repeat rows 1-10 until desired length.
For medium size stole as shown, repeat
rows 1-10 44 times
1
Notes:
1) Stole is knitted from end to end with
scalloped picot edgings.
2) For scalloped picot edging, begin with
provisional cast on. Wind 10 yards of
stole yarn into a small ball, do not break
yarn. This ball will be used later for the
picot edging on the first end (bottom
end).
3) Every row starts with a slip stitch. On
the right side rows (rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9).
Slip 1 purlwise. On the wrong side rows
(rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10), slip 1 knitwise
4) Always count the row stitches
because each row has a different stitch
count.
6) YO before purl – wrap yarn around
needle purlwise
7) Lace stitch pattern is a multiple of
(13+8)
8) Stitch count is at end of rows
(large,medium,small)
9) If desired, place markers at beginning
and end of stitch repeat sequence. These
markers will remain in same position
throughout stole pattern.
10) Stitch repeat pattern is in bold type
in written instructions.
11) Odd numbered rows on chart are
knit from right to left. Even numbered
rows are knit from left to right.
12) Odd numbered rows are right side
rows, even numbered rows are wrong
side rows.
Instructions:
Cast on: using provisional cast on, with
contrast color waste yarn and crochet
hook, chain 73 (99, 125). Using shawl
yarn with small ball hanging as the tail,
pick up and knit 73 (99, 125) sts in the
bumps on the backside of the chains –
(73, 99, 125) sts.
The first end (bottom end) edging:
Cast on 73 (small), 99 (medium), 125
(large) sts.
Knit 6 rows (3 garter ridges)
Pattern Rows:
From * to * is one pattern repeat. Work
size small - 5 repeats, medium - 7
repeats, large - 9 repeats
Row 1: Sl 1, *(K4, K2tog, P2, K3, P2)* ,
K4, K2tog, P1 - (67, 91, 115 st)
Row 2: Sl 1, P2tog, P3, *(K2, P1, YO*,
P1, YO*, P1, K2, P2tog, P3)* , K1 - (71,
97, 121 st)
Row 3: Sl 1, *(K2, K2tog, P2, K5, P2)* ,
K2, K2tog, P1 - (65, 89, 113 st)
Row 4: Sl 1, P2tog, P1, *(K2, P2, YO*,
P1, YO*, P2, K2, P2tog, P1)* , K1 - (69,
95, 119 st)
Row 5: Sl 1, *(YO, K2tog, YO*, P2,
K5, K2tog, P2)* , YO, K2tog, YO, P1 -
(70, 96, 120 st)
Row 6: Sl 1, P3, *(K2, P2tog, P4, K2,
P3)* , K1 - (65, 89, 113 st)
Row 7: Sl 1, *(K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, P2,
K3, K2tog, P2)* , K1, YO, K1, YO, K1,
P1 - (72, 98, 122 st)
Row 8: Sl 1, P5, *(K2, P2tog, P2, K2,
P5)* , K1 - (67, 91, 115 st)
Row 9: Sl 1, *(K2, YO, K1, YO, K2, P2,
K1, K2tog, P2)* , K2, YO, K1, YO, K2,
P1 - (74, 100, 126 st)
Row 10: Sl 1, P2tog, P5, *(K2, YO*,
P2tog, YO, K2, P2tog, P5)* , K1 - (73,
99, 125 st)
2
Top end edging:
Knit 6 rows (3 garter ridges) and bind
off all sts using picot bind off.
Picot bind-off: Insert the right-hand
needle into the first stitch on the left-
hand (LH) needle, and knit a stitch but
do not slip the stitch off the left needle.
Slip the new stitch back onto the LH
needle, then make a second new stitch as
before. Cast off four stitches, and then
slip the remaining stitch back onto the
LH needle. Repeat along the row,
making two stitches and casting off four
each time.
The first end (bottom end) edging:
Slowly "unzip" crochet chain beginning
with last chain. Put 73 (99, 125) st onto
needle and using small ball wound at
beginning, work picot bind off same as
top end.
Finishing:
Weave in yarn ends. Soak the scarf in
warm water for 20 minutes. Roll in a
towel to remove excess water, spread out
on a flat surface, smooth into shape and
pin. Leave in place until thoroughly dry.
Trim yarn ends.
Abbreviations:
K - knit, P - purl, Sl - Slip stitch - on
right side, Sl 1 is knitwise, on wrong
side, Sl 1 is purlwise, every row starts
with Sl 1, YO - yarn over, YO* - before
purl - wrap yarn around needle purlwise,
K2tog - Knit two together, P2tog - Purl
two together.
Footnotes:
i) Traill, Catherine Parr, The Emigrant
Housekeeper’s Guide to the Backwoods
of Canada, (Imprint: Toronto, 1857, 7th
Edition), pg. 178-179.
ii) Collected, corrected and arranged by
A.M., Home Work, A Choice Collection
of Useful Designs for Crochet and
Knitting Needle, (Rose Publishing Co.,
Toronto, 1891), pg 355-356.
3
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