Resource Book

DAKOTA WOODARD
ACCE 110
PART 1
 Table of Content
• Patterns 8. Butted Seam
• Materials Used 9. Taped Seam
1. Turned Seam 10. Slot Seam
2. Turned and Glued Seam 11. Piped Seam
3. Silked Seam
4. Raw Edge Lap Seam
5. Folded Edge Lap Seam
6. Rub Seam
7. Raw Edge Seam
PATTERNS
MATERIALS
USED
TURNED SEAM
TURNED SEAM CONSTRUCTION & MISTAKES

• Lining A pieces up equally

 TURNED SEAM INSTRUCTIONS
• 2 A pieces skived back at ½” • Sew pieces together
• Glue ½”of grain sides together • Hammer down Stitching to seal
• Using pricking iron, mark holes on flesh side
TURNED AND GLUED SEAM
 TURNED AND GLUED SEAM
CONSTRUCT ION & MISTAKES
• Pieces could have been cut evenly
• Awl too deep on 1 of A pieces
• Skived too hard on 1 of edges
 TURNED AND GLUED SEAM
INSTRUCT IONS
• 2 A pieces skived back at ½” • Reglue folds down, flesh to flesh
• Glue ½”of grain sides together • Hammer down stitching to seal
• Using pricking iron, mark holes on flesh side
• Sew pieces together
• Unglue the ½”allowance
SILKED SEAM
SILKED SEAM CONSTRUCT ION
&MISTAKES
• Forgot to loop around needle a few times
• Move stitching closer to middle seam
 SILKED SEAM INSTRUCTIONS
• 2 A pieces skived back at ½” • While glued, use pricking iron to make holes about
• Glue ½”of grain sides together 1/8”from the previous sewed seam. Permanently sewing
down the flaps.
• Using pricking iron, mark holes on flesh side
• Hammer down stitching to seal
• Sew the 2 pieces together
• Unglue the ½”allowance
• Reglue folds down, flesh to flesh
RAW EDGE LAP SEAM
RAW EDGE LAP SEAM CONSTRUCT ION
&MISTAKES
• Pricking iron line was not in straight line
RAW EDGE LAP SEAM INSTRUCTIONS
• 1 skived A piece and 1 unskived B piece • Use pricking iron to mark that line
• Mark 1/2”line on grain of A piece • Sew A and B piece together
• Hammer down stitching to seal
• Apply glue to grain of A piece up until ½”line
• Mark ½”line on flesh of B piece and apply glue
• Lay B piece on top of glued Apiece
• Mark1/8”line on grain B piece
FOLDED EDGE LAP SEAM
FOLDED EDGE LAP SEAM CONSTRUCT ION
&MISTAKES
• Some of back stitching out of place
 FOLDED EDGE LAP SEAM INSTRUCT IONS

• 2 A pieces skived back at ½” • Lay folded piece on top on glued grain

• Apply glue to flesh of 1 piece at ¾” • Mark folded piece 1/8” from seam
• Fold piece down covering all glue • Use pricking iron on line and sew
• Mark ½”on 2nd A piece of grain and apply glue • Hammer down stitching to seal
RUB SEAM
RUB SEAM CONSTRUCT ION &MISTAKES
 RUB SEAM INSTRUCTIONS
• 2 unskived B pieces
• On both pieces mark ¼”on grain
• Apply glue within marked grain and put together
• Mark 1/4” line on flesh side
• Sew that line
• Hammer down stitching to seal
• Cut off excess fabric above stitching
RAW EDGE SEAM
RAW EDGE SEAM CONSTRUCT ION
&MISTAKES
• Awl too deep on grain side
 RAW EDGE SEAM INSTRUCTIONS
• 2 unskived B pieces
• On both pieces mark ¼”on flesh
• Apply glue within marked flesh and put together
• Mark 1/4” line on grain side
• Sew that line
• Hammer down stitching to seal
• Cut off excess fabric above stitching
BUTTED SEAM
BUTTED SEAM CONSTRUCT ION
&MISTAKES
• Awl too deep into grain
• Thread was not waxed enough before stitching
• Not enough back stitching to seal
 BUTTED SEAM INSTRUCTIONS
• 2 A pieces skived back at ½” • Mark grain side 1/8” from top seam
• Apply glue to both pieces about ¾”fromedge • Use pricking iron on line and sew
• Fold both pieces, allowing them to dry before • Hammer down stitching to seal
applying more
• Apply glue to folded flaps and connect
TAPED SEAM
TAPED SEAM CONSTRUCT ION
&MISTAKES
• Right stitching should be closer to middle seam/
equal spacing between stitchings
 TAPED SEAM INSTRUCTIONS
• 2C pieces unskived • Sew those marked lines separately connecting pieces
• Lay down tape to tape
• Split C pieces ½ and ½ on tape • Hammer down stitching to seal
• Mark both on grain at 1/8” from edge of both pieces
• Use pricking iron on both pieces
SLOT SEAM
SLOT SEAM CONSTRUCT ION &MISTAKES

• Not enough wax used on thread

• Awl too deep on grain
 SLOT SEAM INSTRUCTIONS
• 2 unskived C pieces 1 full skived D piece • Use pricking iron on marked line
• Measure evenly where to place C pieces onto D • Sew those lines separately connecting C pieces to D
piece piece
• Mark that place and glue down with all pieces facing • Hammer down stitching to seal
grain upward
• Using awl marking both sides 1/8” from C pieces
PIPED SEAM
PIPED SEAM CONSTRUCT ION &MISTAKES

• 5x or 6x of thread needed to sew because

thickness of seam
 PIPED SEAM INSTRUCTIONS
• 2 A pieces skived back • Mark ½” line on either flesh side of Apiece
at ½”, unskived C piece, 8in of cord. • Use pricking iron on line making sure pricking iron goes through all 6 layers
• Apply glue to entire C piece • Sew through all 6 layers
• Hammer down stitching to seal
• Place cord in center and apply glue to cord wrapping c piece
around cord • Unglue grain of A pieces
• Mark and apply glue to Apieces on grain at ½” • Apply glue to flesh of A pieces flaps
• Fold both flaps down exposing only the C piece.
• The ½”remaining on C, apply glue to both sides and connect to A
pieces • Trim that exposed C piece