Professional Documents
Culture Documents
One Sheet Jonboat
One Sheet Jonboat
One Sheet Jonboat
Table of Contents
Step 1: Materials* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 2: Tools* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Step 15: Installing the bow piece (for real this time) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Intro: One sheet Jonboat
The town I live in has a boat building/ racing contest every year. The challenge to this contest is the materials you are allowed to use as well as the ones you are not. You
are limited to One sheet of plywood, Two 2x4's, One roll of duct tape, One pound of fasteners and no other adhsieves
This year my wife expressed an interest in entering the contest so I designed a boat for her that is more stable than last years version.
I ran into some problems with my prototype. The design was good but I needed some extra screws in the bottom and I will explain that further in the instructable. There
ended up being two slightly different versions of this design built.
Warning: Woodworking is inherently dangerous. You are using sharp tools some of them spinning at large RPM's. You need to be wearing eye protection at all times,
hearing protection as needed and because you are going to be working on some very small pieces you must use a push stick. Niether I or Instructables bear any
responsibility if you do something stupid, lose focus, act carelessly, or recklessly.
The same can be said about boating, you should be wearing a life vest anytime you are in a boat and always acting in a safe manner.
Please note that this design was inspired by the "one sheet wonders" group at Yahoo. For other great designs please stop and visit them. You may make and sell copies
of this design but please give credit where it is due.
Step 1: Materials*
1) 1 4'X 8' sheet of 1/4 inch B/C grade plywood
2) 2 8" 2x4's (As few knots and a straight as possible, Yeah, Yeah I know) If you are not entering a contest like I was you might want to get a knot free 1x4 for the chine
logs.
3) 1 Roll of Duct tape. (Once again if you are not entering a contest like I did get yourself some waterproof adhesive, chaulk and maybe some fiberglass tape and resin
for the seams.)
4) 1 Lbs of fasteners, I used about 1/2 lb of 1"x6 coarse thread drywall screws. I f you can get 3/4 inch that will be great for the Chines and Gunwales and Inwales
(Pronoucned gunnel and innel).
5) You will also need a scrap piece of wood 32" x12" that you will use for a removable form
* same as First Instructable
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 2: Tools*
Here is a list of the tools I used:
1) Jig Saw/ portable scroll saw
2 ) Battery powered drill
3) Belt Sander
4) Circular saw
5) Hand plane
6) Adjustable artist triangle
7) Drill and countersink set including #6 Drill and Phillips head bit.
8) Squares ( I used a Try Square, and a Framing square. but you can use a straight edge instead of the framing square)
9) Tape measure
10) Clamps- as many as you can get your hands on, there is no such thing as to many clamps.
11) Disc Finish Sander
12) Back saw
Not pictured:
8'+ Straight edge
Protractor
Band saw
Table saw
* Same as first instructable
Image Notes
1. 1 portable jig saw
2. 2) Electric Drill
3. 3) Belt Sander
4. Circular saw
5. 5) Hand Plane
6. 6) Adjustable triangle
7. 7) Drill countersink set
8. 8) Combination square
9. 9) Tape measure
10. 10) Parallel Clamp
11. 11) Disc Sander
12. 12) Hand saw
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 4: Temporary Frame Construction*
.The purpose of the frame is to hold the sides in place so that you can add the transom and bow pieces, Chine logs, and finally the Bottom (You can also leave it in place
to install the Gunwales and Thwarts as I did).
The first step is the measurement of the bottom width.
This is obviously the maximum width you can have. I subtracted about an extra inch to account for the (2) 1/4 inch thick sides and I wanted about a 1/4 inch over hang on
both sides for margin of error.
The plan I used called for the maximun width at the top to be 32 inches, but I felt that would torture the plywood just a little to much for my taste so I reduced that by a
little over an inch (Use your own judgement here).
My final dimensions ended up with the top at 30 3/4 inch, base at 22 1/2 and the height of 12 inches. There are two ways to determine the angle to cut this to on the table
saw. You can either use the adjustable triangle or set it on top of the saw and line it up with the miter slot. Loosen the miter guage and slide it up to the frame and lock the
angle into place. (You will want to save one of the triangles you cut to set the blade tilt for your chine logs.)
Next you want to notch all four corners. the ones at the Bottom are going to be 1" tall and 2" wide. This gives you clearance for the chine logs. The top ones are going to
be about 1/2 inch wide and about 2" tall for installing the gunwales ( I didn't cut out the gunwales notches and had to remove my frame cut them out and reinstall the
frame, save this step and cut them out ahead of time).
I cut mine out with a band saw but you could use a hand saw or jig saw.
*Same as in First Instructable
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 5: Cutting the sides and bottom*
Use the Tape measure and measure in from each of the side factory edges 12". Do it on both sides and both ends. I marked it using a sharpie so it would show up in the
pictures. Next set it on top of the 2 2x4's leaveing a gap of 3-4 inches.
Set your Circular saw so that it just cuts through your ply and does not cut into your work surface.
Run it down both lines so that you have two strips 12 inches wide and 1 piece that is about 24 inches wide.
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 7: Side construction
I wanted this boat to be more stable than my first one since I designed it for my wife. I kept the sides a constant width but up swept the front about 6 inches to give it
some planing ability.
I measured 3" down from the end I had cut (Leaving the factory edge att he bottom) and 42" back along the length of the bottom.
You can see that I put a nail at each location. I them laid a thin stip of wood against both nails and gently pulled it till it had a fair curve by eye. In the third photo you can
see that I put a nail on the inside fo the curve to hold it in place.
I used a sharpie marker to draw the curve.
***NOTE***: To make sure that both sides are identical they need to be cut together.
I used a band saw but a scroll saw or hand jig saw works jsut as well to cut the curve out. Once the curve is cut use a hand plane or sander to get rid of any bumps and
make sure the curve is smooth and fair.
Note: Save the pieces you cut off you will use them to make your paddle.
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 8: Chine logs*
Safety note: Make sure you are using a push stick for this operation.
Use the second 3/4 piece that you cut in step number six Find the center of piece from both edges and mark a cross on it. Laying the 1 1/2 wide part on the table use the
scrap triangle from step 4 and run an angled line through the center of the cross.
Set the blade angle with the same triangle.
Place the 3/4 edge up against he saw fence and eye it up so that you will be cutting right through the line you just made. You want this to be a centered as possible to
that both pieces are identical.
*Same as first instructable.
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 9: Installing the chine logs
NOTE: The sides need to be mirror images of each other so make sure that you are attachng the chines to the insides. The only thing as bad as making two left sides is
making two right sides.
I began by attaching the chines near the bow (front) with two screws. I slowly pulled the chine along the curve attaching it with screws as I went along. The first two
screws were about 5 inches apart and the distance increased till I got to the straight edge.
Now the straight edge should be your factory edge this will give you a perfect edge to be lining up with the chine log and help you get a good seal.
You can see in the last photo that I trimmed the chine log so that I had 1 inch of clearance to attache the transom.
Note If you are not doing this for a contest like the one I entered you will want to use a good quality adhesive for this step.
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 11: Bow piece
Lay one end of the 2 x 4 agains the top of the transom and cut this to the same size. This will make sure that you boat keeps a constant width the whole length.
You are not going to permanently attach this until after the bottom is in place.
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 12: Install the temporary frame
Using the marks from when you measured your 42 inches install the temporary frame.
You want the chine logs to line up with the "bottom" of the frame (Remember you are building this boat upside down)
I used two screws on each side make sure that the frame is at right angles to your work surface.
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 15: Installing the bow piece (for real this time)
Remove the screws that held the bow in its temporary postiion.
You can have the bow piece flush with the bottom, or standing proud about 3/4 of inch like I did. Which ever way you decide mark the location on the side and remove as
much chine long as you need to make it fit.
You can either chisel it or cut it with a small hand saw. I used both methods to make sure that they would both work. The chiseling is faster but the sawing is more
accurate. Once this is done screw the bow piece into place on the sides and bottom and trim the sides to length as shown in the third picture.
Note If you are not doing this for a contest like the one I entered you will want to use a good quality adhesive for this step.
Start at the bow end and place one piece on the inside and one on the outside. these are your Gunwales (Pronounced gunnel) and Inwales (pronounced innul). Clamp
these so that they and the sides are all as even and level as possible. Screw through all three pieces. Don't worry if the screws stick through a bit we will fix that later.
You are going to be about a foot short on each side so this is where you use the fifth piece you cut.
At this point you can remove the temporary frame and set it aside.
I wanted a bit more rigidity so I took the remaining piece of the 2 x 4 that I had used for my chine logs and transom framing measured the width of my boat at the 42inch
point and cut the piece that is now about 2 x2 to fit in there and attached it with two screws per side. You can cut angles at both ends so that you get a nice tight fit. I did
this by angleing the miter guage and sneaking up on the angle. It should be about 15 degrees.
Note If you are not doing this for a contest like the one I entered you will want to use a good quality adhesive for this step.
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 17: Skeg
I used the remaining piece of the the 2 x 4 that I used for the gunwales and inwales and made a skeg. the purpose of the skeg is to protect the bottom and to help the
boat track in a nice straight line.
I measured center along the length of the boat and made a mark at the transom and at the point that the skeg reached from the transom. I attached it with screws every
12" or so and them flipped it over and put screws in from the other side in between the other screws (you will see them sticking through the bottom, don't worry we will
take care of that int he next step).
Note If you are not doing this for a contest like the one I entered you will want to use a good quality adhesive for this step.
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 18: Clean up
Depending on how long the screws were that you bought you may have some points sticking up. I borrowed a small grinder and knocked the points off. This is especially
important if you added the skeg.
You can use pretty much any kind of an abrasive wheel or a belt sander if you are careful.
Make sure you get every point off you don't want to be in the water and find one.
For the record this is not me in the photo, It is one of my adult students who built a copy of my prototype. I was not able to take a picture of myself using the hand grinder.
I really hope He is not in the witness protection program.
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Step 20: Test her out
Here she is in her natural environment. This is the first version. One of the neighbor kids is going to use this one in the contest. She wants the name her the Sea Dragon.
My wifes boat is going to be called the Holzkiste, which is german for wooden crate.
Please keep in mind that I am an amatuer designer and make no warranties or guarantees about this design. I also strongly advise you to only use it in flat calm water
and wear a flotation device at all times.
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/
Related Instructables
Sailing Rig for a The BO-AT A little boat Building A Boat- Incredible Soda
Fiberglass Helmetcam for Single Sheet (Photos) by tdem -Just for Fun by Bottle Pontoon
Canoe by MrC Watersports by Plywood Boat nelsonj2 Boat by deceiver
nativewater by PaleoDan
Comments
5 comments Add Comment
If you go to the One sheet wonders yahoo group Phil has plans for two boats the "Tubby" and the "Norsk" which both will take tolling motors.
There is also another group called "Mouse boats" that has several designs from Gavin Atkin which you can put motors on.
There is also the Duckworks site they have some really grat plans as well.
Great job
http://www.instructables.com/id/One-sheet-Jonboat/