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GM General Information: Quick Links
GM General Information: Quick Links
GM General Information: Quick Links
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First off, as of December 2010, there are no federal laws in the US that
mandate DRLs on passenger vehicles. In fact, The National Highway
Transportation Safety Administration has denied a petition from General
Motors to make DRLs mandatory. If your dealer refuses to disconnect your
DRLs, saying "they're a mandatory safety item," then your dealer is lying, plain
and simple.
Also use your browser's search feature to find your vehicle on this page.
GM General Information
It may help you to know that if you plan on ordering a new General Motors car
or truck, but don't want DRLs, you don't have to have them. Simply insist that
the car be ordered with RPO T62. RPO means "Regular Production Option"
T62 "Lamp System Daytime Running - Delete." (Unofficial list of 2002MY GM
truck RPOs) Remember, DRLs are not mandatory in the United States. You
don't have to have them if you don't want them. If buying from stock, INSIST
that the dealer disable the DRLs as a condition of sale. Contrary to what the
dealer might say, there is no law in the US preventing them from doing so.
Many GM have a "DRL fuse", associated with a DRL Module & and up to 3
relays. Usually HI beams in series. Some the LO beams are reduced by 2
volts with a double diode assembly. Some, the fuse also controls the Fog
lights and "automatic lights on" at dusk feature. Other cars the fuse will not
deactivate the fogs and auto "ON". 1999 and 2000 more likely to have the
"auto on" feature, related to the GM liability for no tail lights at night.
I believe most recent GM models (99+), use a VCR tape sized DRL module
that will be under the dash, behind radio, glovebox, over pedals, etc. There
are two 8 pin connectors, the smaller blue connector C2; A is GND, B is NC,
(jump A to B to disable) or pin C (pink) is ignition power, if fused separately,
just remove fuse or disconnect power wire. Here's a site with excellent
directions and pictures. Failing to find the module, there is a headlamp relay
(5 pins) located in the engine compartment or near the steering column, and if
you bend over one of the coil pins, #85 or #86, or the normally open contact
#87, that will disable the DRL. (#30 and #87a are needed)
GM cars that I have seen, the DRL has a switch at the parking brake. To
defeat DRLs while driving, simply a jumper at switch. (Note, this may
illuminate the BRAKE light on your dashboard, making brake system failures
unreportable!).
UPDATE: As of 2003, GM cars now sense when parking brake is set and the
vehicle is moving more than 3 mph. If both are true, DRL's are turned on
automatically.
GM Specific Models
2002 Cadillac STS I looked under the hood and popped the cover off the fuse
box. Under the lid is a diagram of the fuses with labels. One of them (#24 on
my model car) said "DRL" on it. I pulled that fuse and voila! Success and
everything else is still working just fine.
1999-2000 Cadillac STS I'd like to add a simple method for disabling DRL's
WITH NO KNOWN NEGATIVE SIDE EFFECTS. On my 1999 Cadillac STS,
the high beam bulb is used for the DRL. I cut the negative (ground) wire
feeding this bulb, and attached (grounded) it to another metal screw (any
other grounding source) by another piece of wire under the hood. I was
pleased to find out that (for some reason) the daytime running lights were no
more. Also, the high beam headlight switch remained fully operational,
activating the high beams at night when desired, and during the day as a
"flash to pass feature."
This method provides the ability to switch between automatic operation and
manual operation using the toggles and the headlight switch will still work
regardless of the position of the add on toggles. It does prevent the instrument
cluster from lighting up except for the PRND321 and odometer but my
intention is to reduce the load on the alternator and battery while waiting or
when warming the engine in the winter.
1999 Buick LeSabre
Buicks can be difficult to defeat the DRL circuits, because the DRL function is
built into their LCM (Light Control Module) All outside lighting functions are
controlled by the LCM, which has preprogrammed IC's. The key to defeating
the DRL function in the Buick LCM is the keep the Park signal high (+12V). If
you just want to permanently defeat the DRL function, here is how you do it.
Cut the lite Green wire going to pin A8 a few inches from the connector on the
LCM. Remove about 1/4" of insulation from the Pink A7 wire a few inches
from same connector. Now, remove about 1/2" of insulation from the lite
Green wire that comes from the connector and wrap it tightly around the bare
area of the Pink wire. Tape up this joint, and tape up the cut end of the lite
Green wire.
That's it. Holding the Park lite Green wire at 12Volts whenever the Ignition is
on makes this system think that you always have the car in park and
therefore, it will never engage the DRL function. Don't do this at the park
switch, or you will screw up your automatic door locks!
Where is the LCM? on Le Sabre's, its mounted on the center of the firewall,
low, just above the floor "hump". Push it towards the drivers side will
disengage it from it's mounting clips. If your Buick does not have a rear seat
heating duct connected to the heating ducts, then you will have to remove the
plastic block off plate, which has a piece of plastic on it's left side blocking you
from pushing the LCM towards the drivers side so that you can disengage it
from it's mounting clips. Other Buick models seem to have the LCM mounted
under the dash behind the glove box.
Deactivating the DRL's. To deactivate the DRL's, remove the driver's side
headlamp assembly; on my '97 Park Avenue, this was held in place using two
thumbscrews atop the assembly, accessible from under the hood (do NOT
mess with the aiming screws) and pull the assembly straight forward to pop
the rear retaining pin out of its socket in the fender. After it is loose, unplug or
twist and remove the turn illuminator lamp (rearmost bulb in the assembly) if
necessary so you can pull the assembly out far enough to see what you're
doing.
Locate the "ground" wire of the driver's side HIGH beam headlamp (the lamp
closest to the car's centerline); on my '97 PA, this wire is black with a white
stripe. You can verify that this is the wire you want by unplugging the
headlamp connector and verifying that this wire is +12V when the DRL's
would be on (DAYTIME, ignition ON, headlamp switch OFF, transmission in
D) and that it becomes a chassis ground when the high-beam headlamps are
ON (nighttime or headlamp switch ON, with the high beams activated). Cut
this wire at a spot several inches from the headlamp connector.
Carefully endcap the end of the cut wire coming from the control module (the
chassis wiring harness end, NOT the headlamp assembly end), to prevent
shorts. Then splice the headlamp end of the cut ground wire into the ground
wire of the low-beam headlamp (solid black on my car; use a multitester to
verify that it's a ground). Solder the splice well to prevent loose connections,
tape and insulate it, put everything back together, and you're done. The
headlamp wiring now duplicates the factory RPO T62 wiring as described in
the factory shop manual.
If you want to get fancy, you can ground the high-beam headlamp through a
weatherproof 25A SPDT switch under the hood - one of the plastic air box
struts is a good place to put it - with one side of the switch going to the lamp
control module and the other side going to a chassis ground, and the wire
from the headlamp going to the center contact. This allows you to switch the
car between the regular and RPO T62 configuration if desired, but don't
attempt it unless you know what you're doing. Suitable weatherproof switches
are available from West Marine or other boat stores.
Why this works. When operating the regular high beam headlamps (not
DRL's), the Lamp Control Module (LCM) feeds +12VDC to both headlamps
separately; the passenger side headlamp grounds through a nearby chassis
ground, and the left driver side headlamp grounds through the LCM itself
since it has no local chassis ground. In this mode, the high beam headlamps
are operating in parallel.
When the headlamps are off and the DRL's are triggered, the LCM feeds
+12VDC to the "ground" wire of the driver's side high-beam headlamp, and
the current flows in "reverse" through the driver's side headlamp and grounds
through the passenger side headlamp. In this mode, the high beam
headlamps are operating in series, decreasing the current (and light output)
somewhat.
On cars equipped with the RPO T62 (no DRL) option, the driver's side
headlamp is grounded to a local chassis ground instead of through the LCM,
and the DRL wire from the LCM is either deleted or endcapped. The above
procedure duplicates this configuration.
1. Remove the light sensor. It is located on the top of the dashboard, in the
center, near the bottom of the windshield. The top is round,
approximately 1/2-inch in diameter, with a smaller translucent circle in
the inside. It can be pried out rather easily with a screw driver.
2. Immediately below the top of the light sensor assembly is attached the
actual sensor, a small metal disc which looks not unlike a thick watch
battery. From the disc come two small wires, on opposite sides.
3. When the sensor senses light, it completes the circuit, connecting the
two wires. When it does not sense light, it breaks the circuit, triggering
the automatic night-time lights. To disable those automatic lights,
permanently connect the two wires. I did this by taking speaker wire and
attaching an end to each of the wires coming from the sensor. Soldering
them is probably a good idea as well. Once those two wires are
connected below the sensor, it doesn't matter what the sensor does: the
circuit will always be completed. And a completed circuit in this case
equals daytime, as far as the lights are concerned.
4. After the wiring is secure, put the sensor assembly back in its spot. It's
oriented a certain way, so you may have to rotate it until it goes back in.
Once it's oriented properly, just push it back in until the top is flush with
the top of the dashboard. If you complete these steps as well as the
steps for disabling DRLs, you will actually be able to decide yourself
when you want your lights on.
5. I haven't noticed any unintended consequences, but I will update if I do.
Source: CorvetteForum.com
To disable Automatic Headlights (which also turn on the dash lights and all the
other exterior lights), pull the center defroster grill out, unplug the sensor and
insert a 2k ohm resistor into the plug (cover it with tape so the leads cannot
short to anything metallic under the dash). This fools the computer into
thinking that it is a bright sunny day outside. Leave the sensor where it is,
replace the grill, and you're done.
There are 2 relays in the block, the DRL and the RAP -which controls the
items that are powered after the key is shut off. Radio and windows work until
a door is opened or 20 minutes goes by.
The relay block is held onto a plastic bracket with 2 plastic rivets I guess they
would be called. They are hollow with a plastic peg that when pushed in
expands them.
I pried the relay block off the bracket as it is not possible to pull the relays
when it is in situ as they are mounted from the top.
There is a cover over the relays for no apparent reason beyond making it
more difficult to find them?
Anyway, after I got the relay block out, pulled the relay and bent over the 87
pin as mentioned in your info for various GM vehicles. Fixed, no more DRL
and all lights working.
Pushed the centers out of the mounting rivets and replaced relay block in
position, inserted expander pegs into rivets and done.
1997+ Chevy Camaro and Pontiac Firebird. A few sites that give good
instructions to disable the DRLs and Auto Headlights. www.f-body.org has a
wealth of information for Camaro and Firebird owners. Disable information is
available at leres' page, bpador's page, F-Body FAQ (about 3/4 down the
page)
2005 Chevrolet Impala. Simply pull the DRL relay out of the fuse block under
the hood and bend over pin 87. Why this works: Pins 87 and 30 are the two
pins that are connected together when the relay is energized. Bending 87 over
will still let the relay energize but since the pin is bent over, the DRL's don't
come on. As long as the computer senses the resistance of the relay coil
between the two trigger pins (85 and 86) it thinks all is OK and doesn't set any
codes. If you bend over either of the trigger pins like suggested for other
vehicles, the computer will display "Service Vehicle Soon" in the info center.
Note: probably works for other model years and for Monte Carlo too.
The DRL on this car runs power to the right highbeam light (blue wire), which
then goes over and through the left highbeam to ground. So, DRL consists of
the highbeam lights being in series so they run dimmer. The blue wire was cut
near the right highbeam light socket. The blue wire closest to the light socket
was splice to an existing ground wire. This action allows the DRL module to
still think it is powering the highbeam lights, which it always does because the
sensor how tells it its always daytime. But, the power is in a deadend wire
(taped off). When the highbeams are turned out, power now goes through the
right highbeam, then to ground, rather than being grounded through the DRL
module.
For auto headlights - The "push the dome over ride 4 times in 6 seconds "
does not seem to work on this truck. Remove the passenger dash speaker
grille, unplug the light sensor. I didn't have the recommended 1000 OHM
resistor , so far 82 OHM is working.
1998 Chevy S-10 and Blazer. Underhood fuse box, remove black DIODE,
99's may be same, 2000's are not.
AUTO LIGHTS ON:: 98-2000 S-10; remove pass side speaker grill and unplug
sensor, replace with a 1000 ohm resistor.
Chevy S-10 trucks - ZR2. On the ZR2 models there is a relay under the
carpet,taped to the wiring harness.You have to cut the CENTER YELLOW
wire to kill them. The relay under the hood trick doesnt work. Alternative:
pushd the DOME OVERRIDE button 4 times each time you start the vehicle.
1999 Chevy/GMC full size trucks. (Also verified on 2000 model). Here is
another way to disable the automatic headlights on a 1999 Chevy Silverado.
This is very simple. Remove the radio. Push and twist the photoresister (the
black light sensor on top of the dash by the windshield) so it goes beneath the
dash. Reach back and disconnect the photoresister from the wire (it should
just pop off). Push the wire back up throught the hole (it will be easier to work
with this way). For the lights on the '99 chevy to stay off there must be
resistence running through the circuit. One way to accomplish this is to run an
LED through the circuit. I went to Radio Shack (which I hate doing) and
purchased a 12 volt red LED light. I placed the wires in the two holes left by
the removing the photoresister connecter at the end of the wire (if your lights
don't stay off, swith the wires around in the hole). This is all you need to do. In
addition though, I soldered the wires in place and then taped them. I also
disassembled the photoresister (use x-acto knives and be careful) and was
able to glue it back around the LED light (this keeps there from being a hole in
the top of my dash, and makes the light look factory installed). This whole
procedure cost me a little over $3.00 for the LED and about 1/2 hour of time.
2004 Chevy Trailblazer and GMC Envoy. The headlight switch is normally in
the AUTO position and DRL is on every time you crank the car. To turn DRL
off, you have to rotate the headlight switch CCW momentarily. For this
vehicle, all the switches and inputs go to the computer (Body Control Module -
BCM), which is located at the under-seat fuse box. Connector C1 is the
bottom connector. Connector C2 is above C1. Connector C3 is the horizontal
one that connects to the fuse box with a flat sheet. The BCM program figures
out what outputs to turn on and off. There is no single fuse or relay you can
remove to disable DRL. It seems like you should be able to ground BCM
connector terminal C2-F8 (light green wire), but that does not work. When you
get through, there are two anomalies: 1) You will be able to turn your high
beams on when the engine is running without the headlight switch being on;
(2) When your turn your high beams on with the headlight switch on, both low
and high beams will be on.
1. Disconnected the pink wire with the white stripe from BCM connector
C1-A5 [BCM output to Headlamp Driver Module (HDM) - Looks like a
relay, but is a solid state relay type device. The HDM is relay 46 in the
hood fuse block.]
2. Splice a white wire into the white wire at BCM connector C2-F9 (BCM
input from the headlight switch). Connect this new white wire to the pink
wire with the white stripe removed in step 1. When your turn your
headlights on with the switch, it will provide a signal to the BCM and to
the HDM. The high beams will not work unless you keep this input to the
BCM.
3. Cut the wire trace C3-A14 in the flat wire connector C3 to interrupt that
signal path. Solder a wire to the fuse box side of A14. Cut away a part
of the connector plastic to get to the terminal. See the photo.
4. Disconnect the grey wire with the black stripe from terminal C2-E5.
Connect this to the wire you just soldered to C3-A14.
This assumes you are familiar with basic troubleshooting and handyman skills
and that you will properly insulate your splices, etc. Needless to say, this will
void your warranty if it is still in effect.
2017 Chevy Traverse. Under the glove compartment, pop the fuse box cover
and under the cover, check for 2 fuses. High Beam and Low Beam DRL. They
are both red (10 ams) fuses. No side effects and no warning lights or chimes.
Check in the manual to get specifics about fuse panel location. Diagram is
under the panel cover.
1998 GMC Jimmy. There is a sensor on the right speaker grill on top of the
dash that turns the headlights on at night or any time it there is low light, you
can't turn them off for any reason without turning the key off. Remove the two
screw and unplug the senser, using a diode (any size) as a jumper to trick it to
think it is always daylight. if it does not work turn the diode around, tape it in
place.
2001 Oldsmobile Alero Locate the DRL relay in the main fuse box under the
hood, it is #22 corresponding to the diagram on the underside of the fuse box
cover. Remove the relay, snip pin 87, and re-insert. Source
2000-2005 Pontiac Bonneville Remove relay #30 in the fuse panel under the
hood. For the high beams to work correctly a jumper wire should be ran from
87a to 30 where the relay would normally be. If this isn't done the driver's side
high beam will not operate. See figure
2003 Pontiac Grand Am Just go under the hood and remove relay #22 and
that will kill the DRL's on a 2003 Grand AM GT. I have heard that this method
only works on the 03's.
2000 Pontiac Grand Am I just disabled a 2000 Grand Am which I purchased
for my son. Very similar to the instructions for 2000 Saturn. DTR Relay is
Relay 22 in the fuse box under the hood. Relay is second in the first row
( upper left looking from driver side). You loose driver side head lamp until the
jumper is added. The diagram below is looking from the passenger side of the
vehicle.
86 87 87a
--- -+- ---
__/
/
-+- ---
85 30
I found taking a 2 inch long piece 10 gage of ground wire from some house
wiring and flattening the ends with a hammer works great to fit the into the
relay socket.
1999-2000 Pontiac Grand Am This I know for sure works on 99-00 model
GAs. This makes for an alternative for the DRL kits that are no longer in
production. There is hint that a fully Plug and Play version is underway which I
would recommend if you want to return to stock easily. If you are brave
enough to mess with the BCM wiring there here you go.
First do not remove any relays or fuses; however, I highly recommend that
you unplug your negative battery terminal.. Don't want to risk popping fuses or
pooching the Body Control Module (BCM).
The BCM is located on the passenger side under the dash. There isn't much
space to work with so to get the most space I would recommend that you
remove your glovebox as well as the under dash panels. The BCM looks like
a black box about the size of a CD jewel case. It will have 3 connectors.. 1
pink and two gray.
No DRL
At the BCM, locate Connector C2 (center) On the "B" side row of pins, locate
the dark blue wire (b4) Cut this wire, leaving as much as possible still attached
to the BCM.
Now simply add on a piece of wire to the side that is still connected to the
body control module. attach this wire to a good ground, like a screw in the
metal part of the dash behind the glove box or I used the interior light
mounting bracket screw right there next to the BCM.
The BCM now see's this to mean that the regular headlights are on, and so it
energizes the relay that turns off the DRL's.
ALC bypass
At connector C2 find A3 the yellow/black wire, and B2 light green/black wire..
be careful because there are two light green/black wires on that connector..
the one you want is closest to the yellow/black wire.
Cut these wires again leaving as much wire as possible attached to the BCM..
simply tie the two wires together and tape them up real good. (this is the same
thing as removing ambient light sensor and adding a jumper wire)
The BCM will now think that it is daylight all the time and it will not energize
the relay to turn on the headlights.
Method 2:
Disabling the DRLs on a GTP( and presumably on other '01 GPs) is simplicity
defined! This should not take you more then 15 minutes.
1. Remove the dash bolster then look under the left side of the dash and
you will see two modules. The one you want is the smaller of the two
and is closest to you as you are looking at it.
2. Remove the connectors then remove the module by pushing up and out
of the bracket,
3. Carefully bend back the locking tabs and slide the circut board out of the
case
4. You will see three (3) relays on the board. Your interested in the
CENTER RELAY. You will need a piece of plastic from one of those
clear plastic packages that they seem to put everything from auto parts
to toothbrushes in these days .
5. Cut a piece aprox. 3/4 inch long and bend a little leg on the end. With
the leg you just bent in you fingers, slide the plastic between the contact
points of the center relay so they can't meet
6. Put everything back together in the reverse order that you used to take
it out
What you have now is absolutly no DRLs during the day and still have "AUTO
ON" at night. Everything else like the parking brake indicator works just as it
should.
2004-2006 Pontiac GTO You can disable the GTO's by going into Relay box
in hood on passenger side. Remove the relay for DRL. The DRL stop working,
but everything else is ok. Please note that the dash indicator will still show, but
other than that works great.
1997 Pontiac Sunfire
This is a 2 part process. May require some special equipment and/or electrical
knowledge. Author is not responsible for damage resulting from misread
information. All info contained within current as of 01 Jan 2003.
Part 1
Behind the front bumper, in front of the radiator should be a relay. Remove
plug from the relay. IMPORTANT: Jumper wires #80 and #87a (if uncertain
which wire is which, stop now, plug relay back in and please do some
research). Temporary method is to attatch a jumper wire to the plug and
electrical tape it to prevent water leaking in. Permanent method, cut these two
wires at the plug and splice them together. Don't forget heat-shrink. I end-
spiced the rest seperately and removed the plug/relay all together. Failure to
splice these 2 wires together will result in the passenger headlight not working
properly.
Once completed, start car, release e-brake (if automatic tranny: and remove
from park [reverse should work]) DRL indicator on dash should flash. If
successful, move on to part 2.
Part 2
1) Remove the dash and instument cluster. A shop manual may be needed for
this task, if one is not readily available, instructions can be located here.
3) Once the gauges are free from the circuit board, look at the back of the
gauges where the idiot light filters are. Cover the DRL light (the green one)
with black electrical tape. If you were like me and found the shift light
annoying, go ahead and cover that one too.
If done correctly, you should not see a green blinking light while engine is
running and e-brake released (if automatic tranny: and out of park).
Pontiac Sunfire
Also see Chevy Cavalier.
At this point, your DRLs are disabled, but so is your right high beam. If you
can live with this, close up. If you want it back, get a piece of wire, as large as
you can get that will still fit in the hole, and jump position 87 with position 85.
In graphical terms:
86 87 87a
--- -+- ---
__/
/
-+- ---
85 30
2000 Saturn SL1 This is how I disabled the DRLs on my 2000 Saturn SL1.
Under the hood go to the fuse and relay box. Where the Oil Reset Switch is
located. Use the Diagram on the lid to find the DRL relay. Remove the relay.
Using a small flat head screw driver remove the cover on the relay. Insert a
piece of non-conductive material in to the gap between the normally open
contacts. Put the cover back on the relay. reinsert the relay. put the relay box
cover back on. And bingo no more DRL. The only side effect if the green DRL
Light on the dash board flashes for a few seconds and then goes out when
you first start the car.
Saturn. I simply disconnected the lead going to the high beam DRL bulb of
my SC2. I lost my high beams, but if you live in L.A., you rarely use them.
(Too much use can get you shot anyway!)
Audi
2013 Audi models (perhaps back to 2010 models), using the MMI interface:
BMW
BMW most models. DRL set by the dealer at owner's request.
Chrysler
2001 Chrysler Concorde (and Dodge Intrepid) Pull the 10 amp sue out of
"Cavity" 15. Basically, remove fuse 15. It's in the fuse list in the instruction
manual.
Dodge
1994-2002 Dodge Ram I succesfully by-passed them by disconnecting the
DRL moudule (drivers side fender well black box directly below the brake
booster). I cut the red/orange stripe wire then cut the red/gray stripe wire
connected them together and plugged the DRL module back in. I
soldered/heat shrink the wires together and installed back in the factory split
loom for a clean install. This should work on all 2nd generation Rams, 1994-
2002.
Ford
2012+ models. It appears that DRLs are a configurable option on the
vehicle's computer. A Ford dealer should be able to connect to the OBD port
on the vehicle and disable the DRLs. The aftermarket may also have tuners
that can connect to the computer with the ability to disable DRLs.
2012 Fiesta. Remove Fuse F-23 from the ENGINE COMPARTMENT fuse
box. Absolutely no side effects such as Chimes, lights, etc. DRLs are gone
and lights function normally with the switch. This could possibly apply to
previous years.
2011 Transit. Under the hood on the uppper left corner is the engine fuse
box. Remove relay 31C and the DRLs are gone. Noe side effects. Lights can
be manually turned on/off and no chimes, lights, or anything whatsoever in the
instrument cluster. May apply to earlier models as well.
2001 Ford Taurus. Just rendered my DRL'S out of service. The DRL relay
pack is located on the left front inner fender panel and is held in by two plastic
clips that are bent back to allow easy removal of the holder. Remove the
smaller of the two relays (white) in color and drive with out the lights.
Everything else appears to function normally.
2004-2007 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable. The DRL's (if equipped) are
softwared into the Smart Junction Box (SJB) which is located in the left side
kick panel. The SJB does all vehicle lighting and electrical features and
includes the fusebox and keyless entry. This SJB must be replaced to delete
the DRL's. I got mine directly from Ford (Part # 5F1Z-15604-C) for about
$199.20 and it literally can be replaced by a basic shadetree mechanic in 15
minutes. The new SJB can be ordered with or without keyless entry and
comes with two new remotes and includes a new keypad code if yours
features the option. There is NO WAY to program the lights off and applying
the parking brake one click does turn them out but chimes incessantly when
vehicular movement is detected.
2001 Ford F350. The DRL Module for this vehicle is behind the drivers
headlight in the engine bay. Just unplug it, I have had zero side effects from
doing it.
1999 Ford Taurus. Remove fuse #15 from the underhood fuse/relay panel
located on the radiator support near the battery.
Ford Explorer 2002-2006. In the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side
between the battery and firewall, remove the #14 10A fuse. This controls the
DRL module only, no side effects, warning lamps on the dash or loss of any
other light functions.
Ford Expedition 1997-1998. Under the hood open the fuse box (driver side)
and simply pull out fuse 9. This will disable DRL and no side effects.
FORD F-150 Trucks Replace the DRL relay (located top of pass side dash)
with a loop back plug (or modify it). But first try unplugging the dropping
resistor (located at Left front of truck, underneath). Web site.
Pop the air inlet tube out of the shroud, rotate it up and out of the way.
photo
Lift the shroud up. Behind it you will see the Daytime Running Light module.
Unplug the gray connector.
photo
Put everything back together. This completely disables the Daytime Running
Lights. The headlights still work manually and I have no other problems after
doing this.
FORD E-Series (2005) - Method 2. Follow the 2004 directions to find the
2005 E Series Daytime Running Light Module. Simply cut the power wire
(White with Light Blue Stripe) and cap the ends with electrical tape.
FORD F250-550 trucks. On 2005 to 2007 F250-550 trucks, the DRL's can be
disabled by placing the common side of the switch of a 12 Volt Isolation Relay
to circuit 162 (Light Green with Red stripe) at the Battery Junction Box (BJB)
side of the circuit, connecting the Normally Closed Relay pin to circuit 162
away from the BJB and the Normally Open Relay pin to ground. By providing
a ground signal on circuit 162, the DRL Relay #1 is opened and the DRL's will
not be powered.
FORD F-250 and F-350. Fuse number 12 in the high-amperage fuse box
under the hood on '99 and newer F-250/350 superduty. Unfortunately, this will
also disable the horn and perhaps other accessories. We are told that for the
2005 models the DRLs are now run through fuse number 13.
Honda/Acura
2012 Civic. Remove fuse #21 (7.5A) under the dash. No more DRLs and no
idiot lights. At least Honda made it simple.
2009-2011 Pilot
1. Locate the interior fuse box next to and above the brake pedal
2. Remove fuse #18 "Daytime Running Light Main" (20 Amp) to disable the
main DRL control unit - this will light the "DRL" idiot light on the dash any time
the DRL would have been on
3 Remove fuse #37 "Day Light" (7.5 Amp) to disable the "DRL" idiot light on
the instrument cluster
Done! no re-wiring, no resistors, no power draw, no idiot lights, and easy to
put back to factory if you want to.
2008 Acura TL. Remove fuse #3 (15A) in the interior fuse box. However, the
DRL indicator light on the dashboard is tripped when you do this.
2007 Honda Fit. Disconnect DRL module located under the steering wheel,
above the pedals. It's about half the size of a VHS tape.
2006+ Honda Civic. Confirmed on 2009 Civic Si as well. Simply remove fuse
#37 (7.5A) from the INTERIOR fuse box (under the far left side of the dash).
Goodbye DRLs. Absolutely NO after-effects (i.e. - idiot lights, etc.). Clean and
simple!
2006 Honda Accord. It's very easy to disable the DRL on the 2006 Accord
Coupe. I can only guess that sedans are probably the same. I have done it
w/no ill effects other than what I will note. Simply pull fuse #3 from the interior
fuse box. It's a 10 amp fuse in the bottom row 3rd from the left. It's clearly
shown in the owner's manual. The only downside is that it causes a DRL
warning light in the instrument panel to light. It is supposed to tell you there is
a problem w/the DRL circuit. It does turn off when you have the headlights on
(but not the parking lights). I don't find that the warning light is overly annoying
(though that is subjective), especially since it turns off when the headlights are
on.
2007 Acura MDX. In the auxillary underhood fuse box, there are two 10amp
fuses. #1 and #2 for the left and right DRL respectively. Pull them out...no
more DRL. The fuses will not affect any other system.
Source: acuramdx.org forums Note, this causes a "Check DRL System" light
to come on in the middle of the instrument panel. One possible fix is
to replace the DRL bulbs with resistors, tho' a larger wattage resistor may be
needed.
2011+ Honda Odyssey If you pull the #27 fuse in the driverside fuse panel on
the 2011-12 Honda Odyssey, it will eliminate the DRL's with no idiot lights
resulting.
2009 Honda Pilot. I took out two 10 amp fuses in the #12 and #13 slots
located under the driver side fuse box. The bright yellow DRL malfunction light
will still show on the instrument cluster, so I went a step further and
disassembled the dash panels to get the instrument cluster out.
To disassemble the upper dash panel to get to your instrument cluster ...
You'll need to first pull off the side cover of the dash board. (To get to it, you'll
need to keep the driver door open all the way). There is a screw that holds
down the bottom half of the driver dash panel. You will then also need to pull
out the left portion of the center console. Once you are able to remove this,
you can pull the bottom half of the driver dash panel out. After this is pulled
out, you can then pull the upper half of the driver dash panel out. This will give
then give you access to take out the instrument cluster.
Turns out that the lights that power the cluster are led lights, not halogen
bulbs like I had originally assumed. So I went ahead and cut out an old pice of
bicycle innertube (can use anything to cover the led light) and filled it in the
light chamber behind the DRL indicator. Each indicator on the instrument
cluster has light chambers over the led/circuit board.) I also used black electric
tape to cover any possible leaks of light going through that chamber just in
case the inner tube wasn't successful in blocking out any of the light. I
suppose two layers of black electrical tape will work as well. Then assemble
the gauge cluster and dash panels back in reverse order.
Total process took me about 30 minutes. The first 15 was trying to figure out
how to to disable everyting w/o breaking anything off.
1997 and later Honda/Acura. To disable the highbeam DRL for all
Hondas/Acuras 1997 model year or later, just look for the DRL fuse in the fuse
box under the dash. It should be a 7.5A fuse. There is another one that is
10A, but it doesn't need to be removed. This worked for both my 1997 Honda
CRV Canadian version and 2004 Acura RSX
Hyundai
Santa Fe (2007). We have reports that the DRLs are disabled simply by
removing a fuse from the fuse panel.
Jeep
Jeep TJ (2003). Many people disable DRLs (daytime running lights) by
unplugging the module itself. This works but will usually disable some other
aspect such as your high beam indicator. The Jeep TJ (mine is a 2003
Sahara) uses a motion sensor to send a signal to the DRL module to tell it the
Jeep is moving and to activate the daytime running lights. To defeat this, you
need to open the cable assembly leading into the DRL and find the wire which
is coded WHITE/ORANGE and cut this wire so that the motion signal never
reaches the DRL and the lights stay off until YOU want them by YOUR choice.
There are no adverse effects whatever; everything else continues to work
properly. I went a step further since I do want them on if I am on the highway
for a long trip. I cut the wire and connected the two ends of this wire to a
switch which is fixed under the hood. One position is DRL ON, the other is
DRL OFF. I don't know what years or models this will work for but I suspect it
would work for many situations.
Jeep Grand Cherokee, Auto ON lights. Lift out the dash defroster grill and
open up the 3/16" hole (left center) to 3/8" and your lights will come on just
after sunset instead of the middle of the afternoon.
Kia
2010 Kia Forte (Canadian Version)
DRL fuse in dashboard fuse panel. No more DRL, no special indicator in the
cluster.
Lotus
2006+ Lotus Elise and Exige
Remove green wire from switch pack D117M0008F. Details here (with
photos). Note, you do NOT have to remove the instrument panel. Scroll down
on that page to read the comments.
"If you take out the light/starter panel, you can see the switch pack. Follow the
wiring harness, you will see the bullet connector. Unplug it and tape the bare
end. I have the worlds largest hands, and I had no problem reaching in there."
Mazda
2013 Mazda CX-5 (possibly other models)
PDF document.
NOTE: The wire colors are SOLID COLOR/STRIP; if there is one color then
there is no stripe.
1. Find the Fog Light relay. Located in the drivers side foot well. Look up.
2. Using the 10mm deep socket unbolt the two bolts holding on the DRL, FOG
light and other stuff up there.
3. On the FOG LIGHT RELAY cut RED wire about 2" from connector.
4. Crimp a male butt connector on the connector side, and crimp a female butt
connector on the harness side.
5. Take a length of wire about 3' and crimp a female butt connector on one
end.
6. Plug the new wire into the RED wire you just cut with the male connector on
it.
7. Label the free end of this wire as FOG LIGHT RELAY.
8. Find the DRL module. Again located in the drivers side foot well. Look up.
9. Unplug the 2 harnesses. You only need to modify the small harness with 7
wires in it.
10. Cut the YELLOW/GREEN wire about 2" from the connector.
11. Crimp a male butt connector on the connector side, and crimp a female
butt connector on the harness side.
12. Cut the BLUE/ORANGE wire about 2" from the connector.
13. Crimp a female butt connector on the connector side, and crimp a male
butt connector on the harness side.
14. Plug wire YELLOW/GREEN into wire BLUE/ORANGE on the harness
side.
15. Take another length of wire about 3' and crimp a female butt connector on
one end.
16. Plug the new wire into wire YELLOW/GREEN on the connector side.
17. Label free end of this wire as DRL OFF.
18. Run both wires up the wire harness and secure with tie wraps.
19. Remove the cover on the side of the dashboard to expose fog light switch.
20. Run the free wires along the harness and into the area of the foglight
switch. Use tie wraps to secure.
21. Find a suitable location for the SPST switch. (I used the empty switch
plate)
22. Terminate the free wire labeled DRL OFF to one side of the switch.
23. Terminate another length of wire to the other side of the switch.
24. Label this new wire as GROUND.
Mitsubishi
2006+ Galant and Eclipse. Pin 2 on front ECU module. Discussion and pics
at mitsubishi-forums.com
Nissan
2011 Versa. Under the hood, look for the fuse compartment, which is just in
front of the battery. On the compartment cover, there will be a “DTRL”, which
is a 10 amp fuse. Pull that fuse out and that is all. DRL’s are gone and no side
effects. Possibly applicable to earlier years.
2012 Sentra (possibly older models too). Pull the 10 AMP fuse labeled DTRL
(check for location under the fuse box cover diagram) and that will disable
those stupid DRL without side effects (lights, chimes, etc). Lights can be
manually controlled with the On/Off switch.
2017 Nissan Altima. Under the hood, remove the fuse cover (check manual
for exact location ) and remove the fuse labeled "DTRL". ( 10 amps ). No side
effects whatsoever.
Saab
Saab 92-X Remove the glovebox. If you can't figure out how to do it you
probably don't have the skill required to complete this installation. It's just a
bunch of phillips head screws.
Looking at the gaping hole your glovebox used to occupy, you want to focus
on the far-right. There is a small, vertically oriented black box with a white and
yellow connector plugged into the bottom of it. Unplug it and screw your
glovebox back in. Done.
2007 Subaru Tribeca. Like some of the other Subaru's the drl module is black
approximately 3x4x1.5 inches, has a label that reads SUBARU 84067XA02A
UNIT DRL ASSY AISIN made in usa, has a white connector with 10 pins 4
large ones and 6 small ones and 6 wires, a black connector with 8 pins 4 large
ones and 4 small ones and 5 wires. The module is located up behind the
dashboard left drivers side between the left kick panel and the parking brake
up high so it is difficult to see and reach from under the dash looking up,
remove the lower panel for access. The black connector has a gray wire going
to pin 4 that needs to be disconnected, this wire is the signal coming from the
alternator that the engine is running, so that when the engine is running the
drl's will turn on. But with this wire disconnected the drl's will always stay on
because who ever designed the circuit did not put a voltage drop down
resistor in the circuit inside the module, so you need to solder a resistor
between 3k ohm and 4 k ohm from pin 4 to ground, a resistor grater than 4.2k
ohm will have no effect. I opened up the module's case and soldered a 3.3k
ohm 1/4 watt resistor to the back side of the circuit board, doing it this way will
retain function if the gray wire is reconnected with the 3.3k ohm resistor in
place and will not harm the circuit.
2000 SUBARU LEGACY GT. Look underneath the dashboard (driver side)
and you will see 2 plastic modules bolted to the steering column. One is
usually mounted in Horizontal (Seat Belts Module), the other in vertical (DRL
Module). One will have only 1 white connector(horizontal-seat belts), the other
(vertical-drl module) will have 2, one black and white. We are concerned
about the one with 2 connectors mounted vertical. When you look more
closely it will probably have blue label with white letters on it. Here is what my
said "UNT DRL ASSY AISIN 84067AE00A," also that module has 2 aluminum
plates attached on both sides of the plastic box. Don't unplug the black
connector because you will loose most of the functionality of your headlights,
just remove the white one. Everything else will work fine, except no more
DRL's.
The info on your website for the Subaru Legacy (including 2002 wagon) is not
quite correct [ed. note, added "GT" specification above]. It works for Legacy
GT headlights, but not for Legacy L/SE lamps. I got the following quote from
the post at this forum and have verified that it works (on my own car):
For a non-GT 2000-2004 Legacy (single element headlamp), unplug the same
white wire harness as the instruction for the GT model (dual element
headlamp). Now as it says on the GT you can leave it unplugged, sadly this
doesn't work on the single element headlamps (L & L SE), where this leaves
you without any working headlights at all!
What you need to do is with the white harness unhooked, clip the blue/black
wire & tape off the cut ends. Then plug the white wire harness back in. Doing
this retains all current light function but does disable the DRL.
The connectors are released by pressing a small tab toward the top, center of
the connector, on the long flat side of the connector, also facing the driver's
door. Press the tab and pull on the end of the plastic connector, near the wires
to free it from the module. Buy unplugging both the black and white
connectors you will gain enough play in the harness to pull it just out from
under the dash so you can work upright (instead of lying on your back).
Locate the blue/black wire toward the center of the white connector. That is
the wire for the signal circuit that you need to leave open to disable the DRLs.
YES, you CAN just cut the wire and tape the ends, but IF you wish to leave
functionality for future owners or in case regulations change for the worse, you
can either cut it and insert a toggle switch OR just remove the pin from the
connector.
To remove the pin from the connector take a long, THIN pick (like an O-ring
pick or terminal tool) and insert it into the back end (wire end) of the connector
for the blue/black terminal. You must insert it on the underside of the pin (on
the side with the small plastic tang, basically closer to the center of the
connector, but if you are unsure look at the open terminals on the connector to
see where the small locktab is). With the pin pressing the locktab down use a
small tool (such as the small jaw of a pair of needle-nose pliers) to push on
the terminal from the module side of the connector, this should push the
terminal and wire completely free of the connector. It takes a little bit of force,
but if it takes too much, then you don't have the locktab depressed. Once the
terminal is free, simply tape up the ends securely, and tape or wire-tie it back
to the harness out of the way. Plug the 2 connectors back in and you're good
to go.
(NOTE, for some BAJA Turbo models it is possible that simply unplugging the
white connector will do the trick, so try this first to determine whether or not
you need to cut/remove the blue/black wire. To test, simple unplug the
connector, turn the key to run, and check the headlights. If all lights work,
you're good to go. If the headlights don't work with the white connector
unplugged, you need to remove the blue/black wire and reconnect the white
DRL connector.)
2004 Subaru Forester Disconnect resistor module on passenger side shock
tower under the hood, or disconnect the DRL module between the glovebox
and the passenger side kick panel inside the car. This may apply to multiple
model years. Source: scoobymods forums
2002 SUBARU. Disconnect the ballast resistor (narrow silver box) behind the
RF strut tower on the RS2.5 and near the cruise control on the 2002 WRX. Do
it when the turbo is cool.
2002 Subaru Outback Limited. When the parking brake is on, it just opens a
path to ground through the switch. This ground is transmitted back to the DRL
module on pin #4 of the black 8 pin plug through a pink wire. I didn't want the
parking brake dash light to stay on so I came up with another solution. I simply
snipped the pink wire about 2 inches from the plug and connected a wire from
the pink stub coming out of the DRL plug and ran it to ground and just taped
off the other snipped pink wire coming from the parking brake switch and let it
alone. Voila!!! No DRL and no parking brake dash light! [ed. not sure if this
completely disables the BRAKE warning light for other braking system
problems]
General (also applies to Saab 92-X). Remove the glovebox. If you can't figure
out how to do it you probably don't have the skill required to complete this
installation. It's just a bunch of phillips head screws.
Looking at the gaping hole your glovebox used to occupy, you want to focus
on the far-right. There is a small, vertically oriented black box with a white and
yellow connector plugged into the bottom of it. Unplug it and screw your
glovebox back in. Done.
Suzuki
1996 Sidekick Sport
In this car the DRL also controls the Brake, Charging/Alternator warning lights
in the instrument panel and the Head lights in low and high beam, If You
remove the DRL module, all the items described before will not function.
In the connector of the Daytime Running Light Unit (Is the black Module
behind the ODBII Connector) Cut the next:
Pin 3 RED/BLU Daytime Running Light Resistor
Pin 9 ORG/WHT Daytime Running Light Bulb in Instrument Panel
CAUTION: Check the others cables before cutting it, they may have also
silver or grey dots, just to know that is the right module.
You can est it by removing the connector, have wheels chocked, gear in
neutral and brake lever released, engine on at idle. If the headlights are off,
that is the Module!
If you wish, a Double Pole Single Throw switch can be wired for enabling or
disabling the DRL, just wire the Pin 3 in one side of the switch and the Pin 9 in
the other side. A switch that looks the same as others installed in the Sidekick
(The switch for disabling or place in "valet" mode the Suzuki security system
for example) is NKK Switch DPST type:CWSB21AA3F,
in www.alliedelec.com is Stock #: 870-0186 for about USD $2.50.
Suzuki Vitara
1. Unplug the DRL module located under the dash to the right of the steeering
column. It's a small silver box with a multi pin plug in its side, pretty obvious.
2. Lift the circular light sensor on the right side of the dash. Unplug it. Don't
drop the plug into the dash. Retain it and be sure to secure it with a string
attached to the sensor housing so it can be recovered if need be, and does
not rattle
Easy as that!
Toyota/Lexus
Toyota Prius. Description and low-cost parts to put the DRL function on a
switch, where it should be. Visit this site.
1. Remove the glove box and locate the DRL module. It's a black unit
mounted sideways with a wiring harness plugged in the side of it.
2. Unplug the harness from the module.
3. Cut the blue wire at pin 12. Leave at least 3 inches of wire sticking out
of the connector in case you ever want to put it back.
4. Tape up the end of both blue wires.
5. Plug the connector back in.
6. Put the glove box back.
It is worth noting that this procedure will also disable the automatic headlights
that come on when the sensor detects it is dark. If Toyota uses the same
standards in other models such as the 2009 Camry or Avalon as they have for
the Corolla, then this procedure should work for those models as well.
1999 LEXUS. I did reliably disable the DRL, by uncovering the DRL relay box,
under left front kick panel/glove box. Using the wiring manual, identifying the
pin/lead to the parking brake switch, cutting the wire and then grounding that
pin.
Simply clicking the parking brake 1 notch, will also work, but activates the
dash warning light for the brake.
1999 LEXUS. 30A fuses under hood right rear. Unfortunately this disables the
high beams altogether.
-disconnect battery- Then remove the wire with pin attached and tape to the
harness. (consider just cut and tape the wire) -check operation- [except the
2000 MY-Avalon, additionally you need to ground the wire at the module end
of the cut wire] does anyone know if there is a DRL relay that can be "fixed" ?
Volkswagen
VW Gen6 Golf/Jetta (possibly other models). You don't need VAGCOM
reprogramming unless you have HID Xenon headlights. This worked perfectly
in my '10 Jetta wagon. With car off, you turn turnsignal stalk as if making left
turn. Then you pull the switch forward towards yourself as if flashing high
beams. Hold in that position and turn on ignition... no need to start. After 10-
15 seconds, it will ding and the DRL lights won't come on after that.
VW Jetta (2005+) and Golf/GTI (2006+). The DRLs can be disabled by the
dealer via the CAN BUS (diagnostic port). If you're the programming type,
see openobd (German).
VW Passat (2005.5+) and Golf/GTI (2006+). You can use VAG-COM, a third-
party diagnostic tool for VW and Audi. Ross-Tech, makers of VAG-COM,
provide instructions to disable DRLS. This applies to all cars based on the Mk
5 Golf electronics--Audi A3, 2005.5+ Passats, 2005+ Golfs and GTIs and new
Jettas. The program is expensive ($299+), but a lot of people around the
country who own VAG-COM will help you. You can find such people using
the VAG-COM locator.
VW. Change $50 headlight switch, does not sound good to me.
2000 VW Jetta, but I believe it applies to all VW models of recent vintage.
Pulling the 173 relay (behind the fuse panel, remove the bottom footwell
molding with two screws and pop off the driver's side fuse molding, the relay is
visible from underneath) works for disabling DRL but may have the
unfortunate consequence of disabling the emergency brake warning light. A
solution is (1) to remove the relay, noting its orientation to assist in putting it
back; (2) remove the cover of the relay by inserting a small screwdriver into
the two tabs on the underside of the relay; (3) placing a 1/4 inch square of
electrical tape under the normally-closed relay point, which is on the top of the
relay; (4) putting the cover back on the relay--it only goes on one way, there
being small slots in the cover to accept the circuit board of the relay; (5)
replacing the relay. The relay stays in the normally-closed position, which
turns on the headlights. It opens when the emergency brake is pulled. So the
tape separating the normally-closed points defeats the DRL. The headlight
switch operates normally.
Remove the light switch by turning it off, pressing it in, then turning clockwise
and pulling out. Take the switch off the wiring connector to reveal a set of
metal tabs.
On 1998-2001 Passats (B5), place a narrow strip of electrical tape over pin
TFL to disable the DRL when the light switch is in the OFF position.
On 2001.5-2003 Passats (B5.5) tape over pin B to disable the DRL when the
light switch is in the OFF position.
If you have installed the Euroswitch, you need to also tape over pin 56D to
disable the DRL when the switch is in the PARKING LIGHTS position.
VW Passat (older info). Tilt the steering wheel down to facilitate access to the
assembly incorporating the headlights switch and instruments illumination
level adjuster. Insert a .9 mm (.035 inch) maximum thickness feeler gauge into
the gap above the assembly and just to the left of the illumination adjustment
wheel. Slide the blade to the right to push over a tab, thereby disengaging the
spring loaded locking mechanism, grasp the headlights switch, and pull out
the assembly. Pull out the wiring connector. Disable the wide upper outboard
pin (labeled "TFL") with a small rectangle of electrical tape. License plate and
running lights remain in DRL mode but may be disabled by pulling (10 amp)
fuses 3, 7, and 8.
VW New Bug. In L.A. Web site. Relay located just below the headlight switch,
remove dash panel, torx20. 98 Bug, relay #8 (second position, second row)
unplug it (may be #173) the park brake lite will not function, therefore open the
relay and insulate the "normally open" contacts. Replace relay.
VW-GTI Web site. push light switch in, turn CW, pull out. Remove and tape
wire #3.
2002 VW Golf, Jetta IV, Passat B5, and New Beetle Remove relay #173
from under the dash. Cut off #5 spade on relay and re-install. No need to
remove it permanently or to pull it apart and tape anything up.
96-99 VW Jetta Lower the fuse panel under the dash. You will see a relay
marked with the number 173. Coming out of the back of this relay is a plain
yellow wire. Trace this wire and you will find a small connector. Unplug the
connector and your DRLs are disabled.
94-95 VW Jetta The above method only works some of the time (due to wiring
changes) You may attempt this method, however, the the number on the relay
would be 94 instead of 173. The other method is to pull the headlight switch
from the dash. You will see a pin on the back of the switch marked "TFL"
(German abbreviation for DRL) Put a piece of electrical tape over the TFL pin
and reinstall connector. You may also cut the wire that leads to the TFL pin.
You may want to crimp on a set of connectors so that the DRLs can be re-
activated if you ever want to sell the car.
More info at vwvortex forums
Volvo
1994 Volvo 850
1. Take off the fusebox cover (4-no. T25 screws). It is located under the
bonnet right by the RH side of the windscreen.
2. Pull out the headlamp relay. It's the largest one, coloured green, that fits
into a double socket.
3. Prise off the relay cover. This can be awkward since it is a snap- fit with
four tongues of plastic that must all be disengaged simultaneously.
4. Find the pin marked '56b'. It's a 1/4" tab, and is connected via two loops
of thick wire to other pins marked '56bL' and '56bR'. (These other pins
lead to the headlamp dipped filaments, and the loops of wire are part of
the 'lamp fail' warning system - don't damage them in what you are
about to do.)
5. Carefully lever up the connection to pin 56b and cut it.
6. Push the severed connection back towards the base of the relay and
move it to one side so the connection to pin 56b remains broken. It
could then be reinstated at a later date if required.
7. Refit the relay cover, plug in the relay (it will only go in one way round),
and refit the fusebox cover.
2000 Volvo V40 Turn the ignition on. Turn the headlight switch to sidelights,
pull and hold the Main Beam stalk. Turn the headlight switch to 0, release the
Main Beam. If you do want to leave your car parked with the sidelights/parking
lights on, and doors locked, reverse the process