Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing

Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

YARN - INTRODUCTION, CLASSIFICATION - SIMPLE, PLY AND SPECIALITY

YARNS, YARN NUMBER, BLENDING

1. YARN INTRODUCTION:

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres preferably using twist, suitable for use
in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, and rope
making.

A textile yarn is an assembly of substantial length and relatively small cross section of fibers
and/or filaments with or without twist”.

Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured
sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses
involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for hand or machine
embroidery.

The most common plant fiber is cotton, which is typically spun into fine yarn for mechanical
weaving or knitting into cloth.
 Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

2. CLASSIFICATION OF YARN: SIMPLE, PLY & SPECIALTY YARN

A. SSpun Yarn Or Staple Yarn

Spun-staple yarns consist of staple fibers assembled and bound together by various means
(usually twist) to produce the required characteristics such as strength, handle and appearance.

1. Short Staple Yarn: Yarn produced using less than 60mm fibres are called short staple
yarn.

i) Ring Spun Yarn:

These are produced on the ring and traveller twistsystem from a wide variety of fibre types
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

length ranges from 15 mm to 50mm.

The softness changes with respect to twist. Used to produce woven fabrics, knitted fabrics,
home textile materials and industrial fabrics.
It is of mono-structure, has hairy fibres on its surface. Highly cohesive in structure.

 Yarn properties: high tensile strength

 Moderate uniformity,less production rates
 Application: yarns for warp woven, knitting and weft yarns
 DisAdvantages: high manufacturing cost;
 High energy expenses and labor cost

Ring Spun Yarn

ii)Rotor spun Yarn
These yarns consist of fibers bound together by twist. Rotor spun yarns are generally
produced from short staple fibers.. Used to produce bedsheets, bed linen, sofa cover, home
textile materials.

Rotor spun Yarn

 Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

Three phase structure. Core, sheath and belt/ wrap fibres. Typical characteristics of this so-called
core-twist are therefore a harder handle accompanied by a lower strength than is obtained with
sheath-twist, since the outer layers have relatively little twist and can thus contribute little to
strength. However, abrasion-resistance is often better. Removal of outer fibers due to abrasion
has little effect, since these fibers did not create much strength anyhow. In rotor-spun yarns, this
outer layer exhibits other peculiarities. One of these is the presence of wrap fibers. These are
fibers which fly directly onto the fully created yarn as the rotor passes under the feed passage.

iii)Friction Spun or Dref yarn

These yarns are produced on spinning systems which use two rotating rollers tocollect and twist
individual fibers into a Stable yarn structure.Friction Spinning or Dref Spinning is a textile
technology that suitable for spinning coarse counts of yarns and technical core-wrapped yarns.

 Dref yarns are bulky, with low tensile strength making them
suitable for blankets and mopyarns, they can be spun
from asbestos, carbon fibres and make filters was water
systems.Yarns such as Rayon and Kevlar can be spun using this
method

 Yarn properties: low tensile strength

 Good uniformity,high production rates
 Application: yarns for knitting; terry yarns; weft yarns
 Advantages: low manufacturing cost; possibility for automation; no fast-
moving parts
 Low energy expenses and low labor
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

Friction Spun yarn

The characteristics of a yarn are strongly dependent upon the

properties of the fibers used in the yarn, but they are equally
dependent upon the structure of the yarn itself. The following
factors are especially significant:
 the number of fibers in the yarn cross-section
 fiber disposition
 fiber alignment
 position of the fibers in the strand (e.g. long fibers inside, short outside)
 binding-in (fully or only partly bound-in)
 overall structure
 Twist

iv).Air jet spun yarn:

Air-jet spinning is a pneumatic method which consists of passing a drafted strand of

fibers through one or two fluid nozzles located between the front roller of a drafting
system and a take up a device.

The air-jet spun yarn consists of an untwisted core of parallel fibers and a surface wrapping of
fibers. The core fibers account for approximately 85-95% of the yarn mass. The surface wrapper
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

fibers are helical in nature unlike the wrapper fibers in the rotor yarn. The wrapper fibers are not
uniformly distributed over the length; sometimes they are more on the surface and sometimes
very few are on the surface.

The tensile strength is lower than that of rotor and ring yarns. More wrapping turns give better
yarn strength, but at the same time higher wrapping frequency leads to higher bending rigidity
and lower compressive softness.

The production rate of air jet/vortex spinning is 3-5 times higher than rotor spinning and 10-20
times that of ring spinning and, like rotor spinning, air-jet spun yarn is a lot cheaper to produce
as it also uses fewer production stages. As is the case with rotor spun yarns, air jet yarns are
more even, but weaker and have a harsher feel than ring spun yarns. Airjet spun yarns are
mainly produced in the medium count (30 Ne, 20 tex) range and are mainly polyester/cotton
blended yarns. End uses include woven sheeting and knitted lightweight shirting.

Number of fibers in the yarn cross-section

This determines, among other things, strength, evenness, handle, insulating capacity, thread-
breakage rate, and the spinning limit of the raw material. Accordingly, there are lower limits to
the number of fibers in the cross-section, as follows (for normal conditions):

Cotton yarns ring-spun yarn: combed 33 fibers

carded 75 fibers

rotor-spun yarn: carded 100 fibers

Synthetic fiber yarns ring-spun yarn: carded 50 fibers

100 fibers
rotor-spun yarn: Carded
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

B. Long Staple Yarn:

1. Woolen (American English) or woollen (Commonwealth English) is a type of yarn made

from carded wool. Woolen yarn is soft, light, stretchy, and full of air. It is thus a good
insulator, and makes a good knitting yarn.The process creates a less than perfect yarn as
compared to one that is spun with the worsted method. You will find that woolen yarn is
fluffier, often has varying degrees of thickness, and creates warm, soft knitwear.Woolen yarns
are not very strong, though plying can improve its strength.
2. Worsted: Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn,
Worsted wool fabric is typically used in the making of tailored garments such as suits, as
opposed to woollen wool, which is used for knitted items such as sweaters. The essential
feature of worsted yarn is straight, parallel fibres. Originally, long, fine staple
wool was spun to create worsted yarn;

B. Filament yarn

It consists of filament fibres (very long continuous fibres) either twisted together or only
grouped together. Thicker monofilaments are typically used for industrial purposes rather
than fabric production or decoration. Silk is a natural filament, and synthetic filament yarns
are used to produce silk-like effects.

Continuous filament yarns are produced either by combining the required number of
filaments together or, more commonly, by producing the required number of filaments and
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

thickness of filaments simultaneously in one spinning operation, as in the case of man-made

fibers.

1. Mono filament yarn: They are simply single filament of synthetic fibers that are
strong enough to be useful without being twisted with other filaments into a yarn.

2. Multi filament yarns: Consists of many filament with or without twist.

Texturized yarns are made by a process of texturizing filament yarns which combines
multiple filament yarns into a yarn with some of the characteristics of spun
yarns.Manufactures by Disc type,Stuffer box ,Air vortex, knit-deknit methods

Other Types of Yarn:

1. Twist less Yarn

These are yarns produced from staple fibers where the consolidation of the fibers is done by
means of adhesive.
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

Twist less Yarn

2. Core Yarn
Core yarns are characterized by having a central core wrapped with staple fibers.These are
produced in a single operation by simultaneously feeding a core filamentand staple fibers
through the delivery rollers of a spinning frame.

Core yarns
3. Self Twist Yarn
Self-twist yarns are two-ply yarns Produced in a single operation. Each component is twisted
in alternating directions in short segments.The two components are subsequently put together
in such a way that they twist together (self-twist) to form final yarn.

Self-twist yarns

4. Folded or Plied Yarn

A yarn in which two or more single yarns are twisted together in a single operation, for
example two-fold, three-fold, four fold.
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

Folded or Plied Yarn

5.Cabled yarn
A yarn in which two or more folded yarns are twisted together in one or more
operations. Folded and cabled yarns can be produced from staple yarns, continuous filament
yarns or a combination of both.

Cabled yarn
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

End-uses of plied yarns

2 Ply 3- Ply Cabled yarn

poplins sewing threads industrial yarns

voiles Industrial yarns electrical insulation

gabardines canvas shoe laces

crepes filter cloths cords

sewing threads conveyor belts V-belts

general
purpose embroidery embroidery

6. Fancy yarns or novelty yarns:

A fancy yarn can be defined as one that differs from the normal construction of a single or
doubled yarn by deliberately introduced irregularities in its construction.

The ‘novelty’ or ‘fancy’ yarns produce different textures and effects in the fabrics. Fancy
yarns can be made from all natural fibers, all man-made fibers and their blends. They can be
produced from pre-dyed or un dyed fibers and yarns.

Fabrics containing fancy yarns are used for many textile purposes, for instance apparel such
as dress fabrics, or household textiles such as curtains and upholstery.
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

Using one or more of the following techniques, novelty yarns may be produced.combination
of different fiber types; combination of different colours of yarns;combination of different
yarn linear densities; combination of different yarn lengths.

Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with unusual features, structure or fiber
composition such as slubs, inclusions, metallic or synthetic fibers, laddering and varying
thickness introduced during production. Some linens, wools to be woven into tweed, and the
uneven filaments of some types of silk are allowed to retain their normal irregularities,
producing the characteristic uneven surface of the finished fabric. Man-made fibres, which
can be modified during production, are especially adaptable for special effects such as
crimping and texturizing.

From top to bottom: Regular yarn, braided yarn, ladder yarn and ribbon yarn

BASIC FANCY YARN

Generally, fancy yarns contain two or more of the following : a base or core yarn , around
which the yarn intended to create the fancy effect is wrapped; the effect yarn , which forms
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

the design ; and the binder which holds the effect yarn in place on the base to prevent
it slipping while it is being wound, knitted or woven.

Fancy yarn
Gimp and Loop :
All these fancy yarns are produced by delivering the core and effect yarn at different rates.

Gimp and Loop

Gimp is a twisted core yarn, with the effect yarn wrapped around the core producing an
irregular wavy surface. The effect yarn has a regular semi-circular appearance, while in loop,
the effect yarn appears as well-formed circular loops.

Snarl :
This is made in the same way as a loop yarn, but using a highly twisted effect yarn which
forms snarls rather than loops.

Snarl
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

Spiral/Cork screw :
A plied yarn, in which one of the components wraps around the other, rather than the
components twisting regularly together under the same tension. A spiral yarn tends to have a
higher twist than a corkscrew yarn.

Spiral/Cork screw yarn

Slub :
This is composed of short, abnormally thick places at regular or irregular intervals. The slub
effect is spun into the yarn .

Slub yarn
Cloud :
A two-colour yarn, in which both yarns take it in turn to obscure or cloud the other, giving
the appearance of an intermittent colour change.

Cloud yarn

Fleck :
Small amounts of fibers of either different colours or luster or both, are introduced into the
yarn. This gives it a spotted and short streaky appearance.

Fleck yarn

High-temperature sewing threads[

High temperature sewing threads provide durability and resistance to extreme temperatures.
Some threads can be used for applications up to 800 °C (1472 °F). There are a variety of
different sewing threads available which have different applications and benefits.
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

Kevlar-coated stainless steel sewing threads have a high-temperature and flame-resistant steel
core combined with Kevlar coating designed to facilitate easier machine sewing. The
stainless steel core has a temperature resistance of up to 800 °C (1472 °F) and the Kevlar
coating is heat-resistant up to 220 °C (428 °F).

PTFE coated glass sewing threads have an excellent temperature resistance combined with a
PTFE coating to provide easier machine sewing. The glass core has a temperature resistance
of up to 550 °C (1022 °F) and the PTFE coating is heat-resistant up to 230 °C (446 °F).

Nomex sewing threads are inherently flame-retardant and heat-resistant with a tough
protective coating which resists abrasion during the sewing operation. It is temperature
resistant up to 370 °C (698 °F).

Bonded nylon sewing threads are tough, coated with abrasion resistance, rot proofing, and
have good tensile strength for lower temperature applications. They are temperature-resistant
up to 120 °C (248 °F)

Bonded polyester sewing threads are tough, coated with abrasion resistance, rotproofing, and
have exceptional tensile strength for lower temperatures but heavier-duty sewing operations.
They are temperature-resistant up to 120 °C (248 °F)

Electrically conducting yarn

An electrically conducting yarn is a yarn that conducts electricity. Conducting yarns are
used to manufacture carpets and other items that dissipate static electricity, [1] such as work
clothes in highly flammable environments, e.g., in the petrochemistry industry.

There are several methods known to manufacture electrically conductive textiles. The
simplest way is to incorporate metal wires or wire meshes into fabrics. Another approach is to
use metalized yarns. In staple yarns, it is possible to spin short strands of regular yarns with
metal yarns. Electrically conducting yarns may be made of a central metal strand with regular
yarn woven around it. [1]

An altogether different approach involves yarns based on conductive polymers, such

as polyaniline.[2]
 Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

Electrically conductive yarns can also be produced from carbon

nanotubes (CNT).[3] [4] Individual CNT-based fibers are spun (wet spinning) into a fiber
directly from a solution. The solution either contains pre-made dissolved CNTs or the
combination of chemicals required to synthesis CNTs. Tens to hundreds of individual fibers
can be woven into a yarn. CNT-based yarns find applications in energy and electrochemical
water treatment and can replace copper windings, e.g. in motors, which would improve the
efficiency and consequently reduce the use of energy.

3. YARN NUMBER

Definition: Count is the numerical expression which express/indicates coarseness or fineness

of yarn and a definition of yarn count is given by textile institute “count a number indicating
the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn”

System of yarn numbering

1. Indirect system

2. Direct system

1.Indirect system:

In this system the count is the number of units of length per unit of weight of yarn. In
this case higher the count, finer is the yarn. This system is generally used for cotton,
woolen, worsted linnet.

1. English system: (Ne)

The yarn number or count is defined as the number of hanks 840yds per pound.

2. Metric: (Nm)

It is defined as the no of hanks (1000m)per kg

3. French count: (Nf)

It is defined as the no of hanks (1000m)per 0.5 kg of yarn
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

4. Worsted:

It is defined as the number of hanks(560yds) per pound.

2. Direct system:

In this system the count of the yarn is the number of units of weights per unit length
of yarn. This system is used for jute silk and synthetic etc.

Tex system of yarn numbering is called as universal system. This is direct system of
yarn numbering and introduce by international standards organization.

Count in different system:

1. Tex:

Count in the tex system is the weight in grams of 1000m or 1 km of yarn

2.Denier:

The count in the denier system is the weight in gms of 9000m or 9km of yarn.

3. Decitex:

The count in the denier system is the weight in gm of 10,000m or 10km of yarn.
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

CONVERSION SYSTEMS:

Conversion Among Direct System:

Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

5. BLENDING:
i) Definition:
Blended fabrics are created when two or more different kinds of fibers are mixed
together to create a new fabric with unique properties Or A yarn or fabric made from
two or more different fibers. These blended fibers are found in each of the yarn in the
fabric.
o Blend: Blend is the combining of different fibers together intimately to achieve a
desired product characteristic. Blend can influence coloring, strength, softness,
absorbency, easy care, resistance to wrinkling, ease of spinning, cost, etc.

ii) REASONS FOR BLENDING:

o To improve the wear performance of the fabric.

o To achieve aesthetic qualities i.e. appearance, texture and drape.
o To obtain cross-dyed effect.
o To improve spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing efficiency.
o To achieve on economic savings.
o For producing permanent pleated fabrics.
o To get resistance to moth and mildew.
o For comfort and ease in washing, easy care.
o Resistance to chemicals.
o Improving absorbency.

iii) TYPES OF BLENDS

Types of blends and their advantages are as follows:

 Polyester/Cotton:

o Crease Resistance

o Comfort
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

o Less ironing

 Linen/silk:

o Crease Resistance

o Lustre

o Durable

o Drape better

 Spandex/Cotton:

o Stretchy

o Durable

o Absorbency

 Cotton/Polyester/Rayon:

o Strength

o Shine

o Softness

o Resilience

o Comfort

 Wool/Polyester:

o Warmness

o Breathable

o Strength

o Drapability
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

 Cotton/Rayon:

o Absorbency

o Durability

o Smoothness, shininess

o Comfort

o Cool effect

 Rayon/Polyester:

o Strength

o Crease resistance

o Comfort

o Durability

o Absorbency

o Uniformity

 Linen/Cotton:

o Strength

o Lustre

o Wrinkle resistance

o Comfort

o Durable
Paper Code and Title: H08TM Textile Manufacturing and Testing
Module Code and Title: H08TM05 Yarn - introduction, classification – simple, ply and
speciality yarns yarn number, blending
Name of the Content Writer: Mr. P. Sivakumar

iv) ADVANTAGES OF BLENDED FABRIC:

o Fibres are blended to get the properties of these two fibre. E.g. Cotton/polyester.
Cotton provides the absorbency and polyester provides strength.

o Blending is done to produce a fabric which is very costly. E.g. Silk can ne blended
with cotton or polyester.

o Blended also helps to provide the fabric light weight with all desirable characteristics.
E.g. Improving spinning weaving, and finishing efficiency and the uniformity of
product.

o To improve appearance of the fabric.

o To improving functional as well as aesthetic properties properties.

o Improve handle of fabric.

o Improve profitability of a fabric making in cheaper to produce.

v) DISADVANTAGES OF MIXING & BLENDING

o Sometimes some fibres may be hard and may cut the other softer fibre which may
effect durability.

o The manufacture may face some problem with, which fibres to blend and in what
proportion to blend.

o For blend there can’t be a general procedure for care, it will depend upon the
particular fibre and finish applied to it. E.g. Cotton/wool can’t be washed with
alkaline soap.

o It may be difficult to get a uniform blend of the fibre in yarn because of different in
specific gravity, length, diameter, surface, shape, lustre of the fibre.