Introduction

Garment manufacturing involves varied processes depending on the nature of the raw materials
and the quality of finished goods. Consistency, speed, quality, and cost effectiveness are essential
factors that influence the business competitiveness in the garment industry with expanding global
horizons. Energy cost reduction is one of the attractive options- it is quick to implement, with high
returns.

As far as garment sector is concerned, energy cost can be a significant component of operating
cost which is 10% of the total cost. Apparel sector use energy from several sources among those,
electricity is the core energy in equipping this sector. The energy cost is increasing due to the
increase in oil price. Therefore, it is important to study the energy consumption pattern in apparel
sector which in turn will lead energy efficiency, thus to reduce the cost of energy. Further, energy
efficiency has close link to quality and productivity improvements. Therefore, energy efficiency is
essential for the sector to survive in the industry.

Energy Consumption

Apparel industry has become one of the major energy consumers of the world’s energy. Apparel
sector uses energy for the production of garments, thermal & visual comfort of the occupants as
well as maintenance purposes. Therefore, energy is required mainly for ventilation, lighting,
production machines and for other office equipments which includes computers, printers,
photocopy machines etc.

Energy Usage

The apparel sector use energy mainly from Electricity, Furnace oil and Diesel. Energy used in
apparel sector can be categorized into two:

 Electrical energy: Electrical energy is used for Lighting, Air conditioning and other motive
power; sometimes for heating ironing.

 Thermal energy: It is used for Irons and pressures.

Electric motor
An electric motor converts electrical energy into mechanical energy. Most electric motors operate
through interacting magnetic fields and current-carrying conductors to generate force. The reverse
process, producing electrical energy from mechanical energy, is done by generators such as an
alternator or a dynamo.

They may be powered by direct current or by alternating current.

Electric motors may be classified by the source of electric power, by their internal construction, by
their application, or by the type of motion they give.

History
The conversion of electrical energy into mechanical energy by an electromagnetic means was
demonstrated by the British scientist Michael Faraday in 1821. A free-hanging wire was dipped
into a pool of mercury, on which a permanent magnet was placed. When a current was passed
through the wire, the wire rotated around the magnet, showing that the current gave rise to a close
circular magnetic field around the wire.

In 1827, Hungarian physicist Ányos Jedlik demonstrated the first device to contain the three main
components of practical direct current motors: the stator, rotor and commutator. The device
employed no permanent magnets, as the magnetic fields of both the stationary and revolving
components were produced solely by the currents flowing through their windings.

The first commutator-type direct current electric motor capable of turning machinery was invented
by the British scientist William Sturgeon in 1832.

Following Sturgeon's work, a commutator-type direct-current electric motor made with the intention
of commercial use was built by Americans Emily and Thomas Davenport and patented in 1837.
Their motors ran at up to 600 revolutions per minute, and powered machine tools and a printing
press. Due to the high cost of the zinc electrodes required by primary battery power, the motors
were commercially unsuccessful

In 1886 Frank Julian Sprague invented the first practical DC motor, a non-sparking motor capable
of constant speed under variable loads. Sprague used electric motors to invent the first electric
trolley system in 1887–88 in Richmond VA, the electric elevator and control system in 1892, and
the electric subway with independently powered centrally controlled cars, which was first installed
in 1892 in Chicago
In 1888 Nikola Tesla invented the first practicable AC motor and with it the poly-phase power
transmission system. Tesla continued his work on the AC motor in the years to follow at the
Westinghouse Company.

The development of electric motors of acceptable efficiency was delayed for several decades by
failure to recognize the extreme importance of a relatively small air gap between rotor and stator.
Efficient designs have a comparatively small air gap.

Categorization

Alternating Current (AC) types vs Direct Current (DC) types

The ongoing trend toward electronic control further muddles the distinction, as modern drivers
have moved the commutator out of the motor shell. For this new breed of motor, driver circuits are
relied upon to generate sinusoidal AC drive currents, or some approximation thereof. The two best
examples are: the brushless DC motor and the stepping motor, both being poly-phase AC motors
requiring external electronic control, although historically, stepping motors (such as for maritime
and naval gyrocompass repeaters) were driven from DC switched by contacts.

Considering all rotating (or linear) electric motors require synchronism between a moving magnetic
field and a moving current sheet for average torque production, there is a clearer distinction
between an asynchronous motor and synchronous types. An asynchronous motor requires slip
between the moving magnetic field and a winding set to induce current in the winding set by
mutual inductance; the most ubiquitous example being the common AC induction motor which
must slip to generate torque. In the synchronous types, induction (or slip) is not a requisite for
magnetic field or current production (e.g. permanent magnet motors, synchronous brush-less
wound-rotor doubly-fed electric machine).
DC motors

A DC motor is designed to run on DC electric power. By far the most common DC motor types are
the brushed and brushless types, which use internal and external commutation respectively to
periodically reverse the current in the rotor windings

Brushed DC motor

DC motor design generates an oscillating current in a wound rotor, or armature, with a split
ring commutator, and either a wound or permanent magnet stator. A rotor consists of one or more
coils of wire wound around a core on a shaft; an electrical power source is connected to the rotor
coil through the commutator and its brushes, causing current to flow in it, producing
electromagnetism. The commutator causes the current in the coils to be switched as the rotor
turns, keeping the magnetic poles of the rotor from ever fully aligning with the magnetic poles of
the stator field, so that the rotor never stops (like a compass needle does) but rather keeps
rotating indefinitely (as long as power is applied and is sufficient for the motor to overcome the
shaft torque load and internal losses due to friction, etc.)

Limitations

 need for brushes to press against the commutator. This creates friction.

 Sparks are created by the brushes.This sparking limits the maximum speed of the
machine, as too-rapid sparking will overheat, erode, or even melt the commutator.
  The current density per unit area of the brushes, in combination with their resistivity,
limits the output of the motor.

 The making and breaking of electric contact also causes electrical noise, and the
sparks additionally cause RFI. Brushes eventually wear out and require replacement,
and the commutator itself is subject to wear and maintenance

Therefore, DC motor brush design entails a trade-off between output power, speed, and
efficiency/wear.

There are four types of brushed DC motor:

 DC shunt-wound motor

 DC series-wound motor

 DC compound motor

 Permanent magnet DC motor

Shunt-wound motors

In a shunt wound motor, the field coils are connected in parallel, or "shunted" to the armature
coils.

Series-wound motors

As its name implies, this motor has a field that is in series with the armature. These motors are
often used

to drive high starting torque loads, such as traction vehicles.

Compound-wound motor

Both shunt and series field windings are used in compound motors. By adjusting strength and
direction of the

series winding relative to the shunt winding, speed-torque characteristics can be made to
approximate those of

series or shunt motors.

Permanent-magnet motors

Operating characteristics of permanent- magnet motors are similar to those of shunt-wound types.
Field

flux, however, is provided by permanent magnets instead of current in a winding. Motor torque is
directly proportional to armature current over the motor’s speed range. Compared with shunt-
wound motors, permanent-

magnet motors weigh less and are more economical to operate because no power is needed to
support a field.

a)shunt/parallel b)series c)compound

Brushless

A brushless DC motor (BLDC) is a synchronous electric motor which is powered by

direct-current electricity (DC) and which has an electronically controlled commutation
system, instead of a mechanical commutation system based on brushes. In such motors,
current and torque, voltage and rpm are linearly related.

This design is simpler than that of brushed motors because it eliminates the complication of
transferring power from outside the motor to the spinning rotor. Advantages of brushless motors
include long life span, little or no maintenance, and high efficiency. Disadvantages include high
initial cost, and more complicated motor speed controllers.

BLDC motors can potentially be deployed in any area currently fulfilled by brushed DC
motors. Cost and control complexity prevents BLDC motors from replacing brushed motors in
most common areas of use. Nevertheless, BLDC motors have come to dominate many
applications: Consumer devices such as computer hard drives, CD/DVD players, and PC cooling
fans use BLDC motors almost exclusively. Low speed, low power brushless DC motors are used
in direct- drive turntables. High power BLDC motors are found in electric vehicles and
some industrial machinery. These motors are essentially AC synchronous motors with
permanent magnet rotors.

Although BLDC motors are practically identical to permanent magnet AC motors, the controller
implementation is what makes them DC. While AC motors feed sinusoidal current simultaneously
to each of the legs (with an equal phase distribution), DC controllers only approximate this by
feeding full positive and negative voltage to two of the legs at a time. The major advantage of this
is that both the logic controllers and battery power sources also operate on DC, such as in
computers and electric cars.

Coreless or ironless DC motors

coreless or ironless DC motor, a specialized form of a brush or brushless DC motor. Optimized for
rapid acceleration, these motors have a rotor that is constructed without any iron core.

AC motors

An AC motor is an electric motor driven by an alternating current. It commonly consists of two

basic parts, an outside stationary stator having coils supplied with alternating current to produce a
rotating magnetic field, and an inside rotor attached to the output shaft that is given a torque by the
rotating field. Where speed stability is important, some AC motors (such as some Papst motors)
have the stator on the inside and the rotor on the outside to optimize inertia and cooling.

AC Asynchronous/induction

The induction motor is the most common form of asynchronous motor and is basically an ac
transformer with a rotating secondary. These motors are probably the simplest and most rugged of
all electric motors. They consist of two basic electrical assemblies: the wound stator and the rotor
assembly.

There are two types of rotors used in induction motors: squirrel cage rotors and wound
rotors.
squirrel cage rotor

Most common AC motors use the squirrel cage rotor, which will be found in virtually all domestic
and light industrial alternating current motors. The squirrel cage takes its name from its shape -
a ring at either end of the rotor, with bars connecting the rings running the length of the rotor. It
is typically cast aluminum or copper poured between the iron laminates of the rotor, and
usually only the end rings will be visible.

Wound Rotor

An alternate design, called the wound rotor, is used when variable speed is required. In this
case, the rotor has the same number of poles as the stator and the windings are made of wire,
connected to slip rings on the shaft. Carbon brushes connect the slip rings to an external
controller such as a variable resistor that allows changing the motor's slip rate.

AC SYNCHRONOUS

Without complex electronic control, synchronous motors are inherently constant-speed motors.
They operate in absolute synchronism with line frequency.

Excitation System

DC exciter. This is the traditional method. A DC generator mounted on the main shaft may be of
either the shunt-wound or the separately-excited type. The output current is fed to the rotor of the
synchronous machine through slip-rings.

Static excitation. Here, DC excitation can be obtained by means of a rectifier and a suitable AC
supply. This method eliminates the commutation limits inherent in DC exciters. The rectifier unit
has no moving parts, requires very little maintenance, and is immune to hazardous or dusty
atmospheres.

AC exciter. The AC exciter is mounted on the main shaft. Its field is fed from a pilot exciter, whose
field in turn is obtained from a permanent-magnet generator. The AC exciter output voltage is
rectified and fed to the field of the synchronous machine via slip-rings.

Brushless excitation system. An exciter of rotating-armature type is mounted on the main shaft.
The AC output is converted to DC by means of a rotating rectifier. The direct current is fed directly
to the field winding of the synchronous machine, no slip-rings or brushgear being needed.
Single Phase AC Synchronous motor
Small single phase AC motors can also be designed with magnetized rotors (or several
variations on that idea). The rotors in these motors do not require any induced current so
they do not slip backward against the mains frequency. Instead, they rotate synchronously
with the mains frequency. Because of their highly accurate speed, such motors are usually
used to power mechanical clocks, audio turntables, and tape drives; formerly they were
also much used in accurate timing instruments such as strip-chart recorders or telescope
drive mechanisms. The shaded-pole synchronous motor is one version.

Three Phase AC Synchronous motor

UNIVERSAL MOTORS
It is designed to operate on either AC or DC power. The ability to operate on AC is because the
current in both the field and the armature (and hence the resultant magnetic fields) will alternate
(reverse polarity) in synchronism, and hence the resulting mechanical force will occur in a constant
direction.

SERVOMOTORS

These motors are used in closed loop control systems in which work is the control variable, Figure
9. The digital controller directs operation of the motor by sending velocity command signals to the
amplifier, which drives the motor. An integral feedback device (resolver) or devices (en- coder and
tachometer) are either incorporated within the motor or are remotely mounted, often on the load
itself. These provide position and velocity feedback that the controller compares to its programmed
motion profile and uses to alter its velocity signal. The motion profile is a set of instructions
programmed into the controller that defines the operation in terms of time, position, and velocity.

The ability of the servomotor to adjust to differences between the motion profile and feedback
signals dependsgreatly upon the type of controls and motors used. See the Controls and Sensors
Product Department.
AC servomotors

These are basically two-phase, reversible, induction motors modified for servo operation. They are
used in applications requiring rapid and accurate response characteristics. To achieve these
characteristics, these induction motors have small diameter, high resistance rotors. The small
diameter provides low inertia for fast starts, stops, and reversals. High resistance provides nearly
linear speedtorqu characteristics for accurate control.

DC servomotors

DC servomotors are high performance motors normally used as prime movers in numerically
controlled machinery or other applications where starts and stops must be made quickly and
accurately. They have lightweight, low inertia armatures that respond quickly to excitation voltage
changes. In addition, very low armature inductance in these motors results in a low electrical time
constant (typically 0.05 to 1.5 ms) that further sharpens motor response to command signals.

Brushless dc servomotors

Brushless dc motors resemble a dc shunt motor turned inside out. Permanent magnets, located on
the rotor, or a wound rotor excited by dc voltage through slip rings, requires that theflux created by
the current carrying conductors in the stator rotate aroundthe inside of the stator in order to
achieve motor action. The rotating field is obtained by placing three stator windings around the
interior of the stator punching. The windings are then interconnected so that introducing a three-
phase excitation voltage to the three stator windings (which are separated by 120 electrical
degrees) produces a rotating magnetic field. This construction speeds heat dissipation and
reduces rotor inertia.

STEP MOTORS

A step motor is a device that converts electrical pulses into mechanical movements. Conventional
motors rotate continuously, but a step motor, when pulsed, rotates (steps) in fixed angular
increments. Step size, or step angle, is determined by the construction of the motor and the type
of drive scheme used to control it. Traditionally, step resolution has ranged from 90 degrees (four
steps per rev) to a fraction of a degree, though 15 degrees (12 steps per rev), to 1.8 degrees (200
steps per rev) has been most common. More recently, however, microstep motors have been
introduced that are capable of .0144 degree steps (25,000 steps per rev). Microstep motors are
hybrid 200 step per rev motors that are electricallycontrolled to produce 25,000 steps per rev.
Power factor

The power factor of an AC electric power system is defined as the ratio of the real power flowing to
the load to the apparent power in the circuit and is a dimensionless number between 0 and 1
(frequently expressed as a percentage, e.g. 0.5 pf = 50% pf). Real power is the capacity of the
circuit for performing work in a particular time. Apparent power is the product of the current and
voltage of the circuit.

For example, to get 1 kW of real power, if the power factor is unity, 1 kVA of apparent power
needs to be transferred (1 kW ÷ 1 = 1 kVA). At low values of power factor, more apparent power
needs to be transferred to get the same real power. To get 1 kW of real power at 0.2 power factor,
5 kVA of apparent power needs to be transferred (1 kW ÷ 0.2 = 5 kVA). This apparent power must
be produced and transmitted to the load in the conventional fashion, and is subject to the usual
distributed losses in the production and transmission processes.

To calculate a motor's efficiency, the mechanical output power is divided by the electrical input
power:

where η is energy conversion efficiency, Pe is electrical input power, and Pm is mechanical output
power.

In simplest case Pe = VI, and Pm = Tω, where V is input voltage, I is input current, T is output
torque, and ω is output angular velocity. It is possible to derive analytically the point of maximum
efficiency.
COMPARISON BETWEEN SERVO MOTR AND CLUTCH MOTOR

CLUTCH MOTOR AC SERVO MOTOR

Clutch motor adopts AC asynchronous motor,

Servo motor output efficiency reaches more than
working efficiency is about 60%, operate for a
90%. Motor working while sewing, Stop when no
long time, produce a large amount of useless
sewing, with inbuilt encoder, it makes best
electric current every day, the electricity losses is
current regulation according to load. Thus
up to 60%. The power of Aluminium motor is 10-
maximum save the power.
30% larger than copper motor.

According to testing: Working time make two motor comparisons 8-10 hour per day, copper motor
power consumption is 2.5-3.5KHW, while servo motor is only 0.8-1KHW. Save 1.7-2.5KHW, Normal
clutch motor consume 75 unit power in one month like 15 dollar's cost, with power-saver it consumes
only 25 units, it means u r saving 10 dollars per month, so cost of the motor customer will recover
in around 10 months, if motor sold with machine in 200 usd then it means machines will free of cost
in 20 months by power saving

Normally tailors working 8 hours per day with clutch motor (it consumes power all the time) stitches
hardly 5 hours from 8 hours i.e. power saver motor consumes only when machine is stitching, but
clutch motor is running all the time either stitching or not.

Servo motor can be equipped with computer

Clutch motor without computer. control needle position. Improve 15% working
efficiency.

Difficult maintenance - Clutch motor adopts clutch

Servo motor direct drive, controlled
drive. Gear is easily damaged during working
by computer to run at the best way, and it is
time,. Meanwhile clutch motor is opened structure,
closed structure, less maintenance cost.
dust particles easily get into it.

less noise and vibration - improves the

loud noise. machine operability and operator's working
environment.

It’s difficult to control clutch motor speed. Low Convenient use - speed controlled by computer.
efficiency. No speed adjustment. Operates easily.
 self-regulating power,
If the power is unsteady 220V±5%, Clutch motor
get easily burned. Clutch motor adopts gear works under wide voltage(170V-260V),
brake. Brake wears away easily.
brake controlled by computer. High sensitivity.

stepper motor

A stepper motor (or step motor) is a brushless, synchronous electric motor that can divide

a full rotation into a large number of steps. Computer-controlled stepper motors are one of

the most versatile forms of positioning systems. They are typically digitally controlled as

part of an open loop system, and are simpler and more rugged than closed loop servo

systems.

Industrial applications are in high speed pick and place equipment and multi-axis machine

CNC machines often directly driving lead screws or ball screws. In the field of lasers and

optics they are frequently used in precision positioning equipment such as linear actuators,

linear stages, rotation stages, goniometers, and mirror mounts. Other uses are in packaging

machinery, and positioning of valve pilot stages for fluid control systems.