Analysis of Fancy Weave (Huckaback, Mock Leno, Honeycomb)

Department of Textile Engineering
Course Code: TE 218

Course Title: Analysis of Fancy weave (Huckaback, Mock leno, Honeycomb).
Experiment No: 05
Experiment Title: Analysis of Satin weave.
Date of Submission: 24 April, 2021

Name of the experiment : Analysis of Fancy weave (Huckaback, Mock leno,
Honeycomb).
Introduction:
The huckaback weaves are basically toweling fabrics. They are generally
associated with honey comb fabrics and hence known as honeycomb effects. They are
constructed by alternately combining a floating with a plain weave. Interestingly, a
number of weaves are derived from these weaves. Huck a back weaves are suitable for
producing thick and heavy textures. One of the well known heavier varieties of this class
is the “Grecians”. The design of huckaback weaves permits stripe and check effects to be
brought out in the fabrics.
Objectives:
1. To know about the Fancy weave (Huckaback, Mock leno, Honeycomb) and define
face and back
2. Application of Fancy weave
3. To know drafting, lifting of plain weave.
Instruments:
● Fabric counting glass,

● needle,
● scissor.
Technical face and back of the fabric:
Face Back
Steps of Analysis:
1. Firstly take a Fancy weave fabric. Then identify the face and back side of the fabric.
2. After that measure EPI, PPI, GSM, of the fabric, direction of the warp, and weft crimp
percentage of warp and weft
3. Identify the weave plane of the fabric FN.R. S and then it put on the graph paper.
4. Weave plane must be short by signs. Drafting plane is situated upper from the weave
plane and lifting plane is situated beside from weave plane.
5. Final calculation by base of the data.
Weave plan, drafting plan and lifting plan:
Huck-A-Back Weave
Honeycomb Weave
Mock Leno Weave
Experimental Data:
Given,
1. Huckaback
2. EPI (70-80);
3. PPI (40-50)
4. Warp count= (20-30);
5. Weft count= (15-20)
Sl. Av Av Thread Oz/sqy Warp Weft Warp Weft

E g g d Crimp Crimp Count Coun
N PI PPI Densit GSM
o EPI PPI y % % t
1. 72 75 43 46 3450 134.61 3.97 6% 8% 25 19
2. 75 46
3. 78 49
❖ Calculation of Crimp%:
Calculation Warp Crimp% =

Length of the fabric in straight condition -length of the fabric in relax condition X100
Length of the fabric in straight condition
106-100
= —————- x 100
100
= 6%
Calculation Weft Crimp% =
108-100
= —————- x 100
100
= 8%
Calculation of count :
Warp count, Ne = 25
Weft count, Ne = 19
❖ Calculation of GSM:
Length of each end = 1m + 1m x 0.06( As warp crimp%=6)

= 1.06m
Length of each pick = 1m + 1m x 0.08( As warp crimp%=8)
= 1.08m
GSM= ( EPI X length of each end + PPI X length of each pick) X 23.25
Warp count Weft count
= ( 75 X 1.06 + 46 X 1.08 X 23.25

25 19
= 79.5 + 49.68 X 23.25

25 19
= (3.18 + 2.61) X 23.25
= 134.61gm/m2
Calculation of Oz/yd2 :
Oz/yd2 = (EPI X length of each end + PPI X length of each pick) X 0.686
= (3.18 + 2.61) X 0.686
= 3.97
Given,
Mock leno
EPI (70-80);
PPI (40-50) Warp
count= (50-60);
weft count= (40-50)
❖ Experimental Data:

N PI PPI Densit GSM
o EPI PPI y % % t
1. 75 75 50 45 3375 59.05 1.74 5% 8% 52 47
2. 70 40
3. 80 45
❖ Calculation of Crimp%:

105-100
= —————- x 100
100
= 5%
108-100
= —————- x 100
100
= 8%
Warp count, Ne = 52
Weft count, Ne = 47
❖ Calculation of GSM:

= 1.05m
= 1.08m
= ( 75 X 1.05 + 45 X 1.08 X 23.25
52 47
= 78.75 + 48.6 X 23.25

52 47
= (1.51 + 1.03) X 23.25
= 59.05gm/m2
= (1.51 + 1.03) X 0.686
= 1.74
Given,
Honeycomb
EPI (80-100);
PPI (60-70) Warp
count= (40-50);
weft count= (30-40)
Experimental Data:

N PI PPI Densit GSM
o EPI PPI y % % t
1. 80 90 60 65 5850 95.66 2.82 5% 8% 46 34
2. 92 65
3. 98 70
Calculation of Crimp%:

105-100
= —————- x 100
100
= 5%
108-100
= —————- x 100
100
= 8%
Warp count, Ne = 46
Weft count, Ne = 34
Calculation of GSM:

= 1.05m
= 1.08m
= ( 90 X 1.05 + 65X 1.08 X 23.25

46 34
= 94.5 + 70.2 X 23.25

46 34
= (2.05 + 2.06) X 23.25
= 95.66gm/m2
= (2.05 + 2.06) X 0.686
= 2.82
Main Features:
These weaves are generally applied in the manufacture of non-pile towels. The
main features of this weave are as follows:
● This weave is characterized by a rough surface, which is produced by floating
threads in groups arranged on a plain weave basis.
● A more balanced huckaback is produced if the weave-repeat size is twice an odd
number (I.e. 2 X 5 = 10; repeat size = 10 ends X 10 picks), but it is by no means
impossible to produce the weave on a repeat which is complete on twice an even
number of threads.
● With these constructions hardwearing and extremely thick, moisture absorbing
fabrics are produced.
● Groups of plain weaves are exchanged with groups of one end plain weave and
one end floating. To achieve a more prominent raised effect in the area where the
threads are floating correct denting plays an important part. Whenever possible the
long floating ends should be drawn into the same dent.
● 10 X 10 is the widely used repeat size.
Uses:
Mock leno find use in canvas cloths, cheap fabrics for window curtains, light dress
fabrics, blouses, aprons etc. In many cases, they are generally employed in combination
with other weaves.
Conclusion:
In this experiment, I have gained detailed knowledge about Analysis of Fancy

weave. Our Sir has co-operated enough to complete the experiment. We will be able to
apply the knowledge gained from this experiment in my future careers.

Analysis of Fancy Weave (Huckaback, Mock Leno, Honeycomb)

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Department of Textile Engineering

Course Code: TE 218

Date of Submission: 24 April, 2021

● Fabric counting glass,

Technical face and back of the fabric:

5. Final calculation by base of the data.

Weave plan, drafting plan and lifting plan:

Sl. Av Av Thread Oz/sqy Warp Weft Warp Weft

Calculation Warp Crimp% =

Length of each end = 1m + 1m x 0.06( As warp crimp%=6)

= ( 75 X 1.06 + 46 X 1.08 X 23.25

= 79.5 + 49.68 X 23.25

Sl. Av Av Thread Oz/sqy Warp Weft Warp Weft

Calculation Warp Crimp% =

Length of each end = 1m + 1m x 0.05( As warp crimp%=6)

= 78.75 + 48.6 X 23.25

Sl. Av Av Thread Oz/sqy Warp Weft Warp Weft

Calculation Warp Crimp% =

Calculation Weft Crimp% =

Length of each end = 1m + 1m x 0.05( As warp crimp%=6)

= ( 90 X 1.05 + 65X 1.08 X 23.25

= 94.5 + 70.2 X 23.25

In this experiment, I have gained detailed knowledge about Analysis of Fancy

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