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Long Exposure Photography Made Easy
Long Exposure Photography Made Easy
Long exposure photography is one of the most fascinating genres and it will get you forever hooked on
photography.
Imagine you could keep your eyes open for a certain amount of time and capture everything you’re seeing
in just one image – wouldn’t that be nice? That’s exactly how long exposure photography works;
instead of “freezing” time, the idea is to capture everything that happens while the shutter is open.
Did you know that long exposure photography is also a super versatile technique? From incredible
daytime long exposure photos to dreamy long exposure night skies, this technique will help you create
the magical and ethereal photos you’ve always imagined.
However, long exposure photography can be a complex technique that is difficult to master. Do you have
the right equipment to do long exposure photography? Do you know the basic settings to start with?
Not sure? Let’s get into it!
If you’re shooting handheld, your shutter speed should be somewhere between 1/5000 and 1/40 of a
second to get sharp images. However, using a slow shutter speed, starting from half of a second and
upwards, and placing your camera on a steady tripod, you’ll be able to capture motion in clouds, water,
cars, animals, etc. Wherever there’s movement, there’s an opportunity to be creative using the long
exposure technique.
Keep in mind that when you’re shooting daylight long exposure, if there is too much light hitting the
sensor, you may need a Neutral Density filter to subtract some exposure stops and get a well-exposed
image.
Long exposure at night allows us to capture more information from the sky than what we can see with
our naked eyes. By keeping the shutter open for a longer time, we’ll capture details of the Milky Way or
colors of the Northern Lights that we wouldn’t be able to see with the naked eye.
The final result of either nighttime or daytime long exposure images is magical because it can’t be
perceived by your eyes. In fact, if they’re unfamiliar with the final image, many people think that long
exposure photos have been “Photoshopped”. However, to take long-exposure photographs, all you need
is your camera and a tripod (and ND filters sometimes).
Let’s dive into how to do long exposure photography with your camera and how to create the
unbelievable long exposure photos you dream of producing.
1. Scout and open your eyes: It sounds pretty obvious, but this step is at the heart of long
exposure photography. Try to arrive at least one hour before the time you want to shoot, so you
can pick your spot and, at the same time, analyze the direction of the clouds, see if the tide is
rising, if there’ll be people walking in front of your camera, etc.
1. Set up the camera on a tripod in a safe place: Set your camera on a sturdy tripod; remember
that no photo is worth risking your equipment or your own safety.
1. Get your composition: Once you’ve analyzed and predicted all the surrounding elements, it’s
time to compose your photo. You can check here the best photography composition
techniques.
1. Change the camera settings: Turn your camera to Manual or Bulb mode and change the
settings according to the explanation below. Also, turn the image stabilization (IS) off.
1. Focus: Make sure you have the right focus to take sharp and neat photos.
1. Meter: Adjust the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO to get an exposure value equal to zero by
using the light meter of your camera. Use a long shutter speed to capture the motion you want.
1. Take a test shot and check the Histogram and focus: Once you’ve taken your test photo,
double-check the exposure, through the histogram, and the focus to make sure everything is
OK.
1. If you need to use ND filters, calculate the shutter speed: Adjust the shutter speed depending
on the filter you are using. You can check out our section below to find some helpful apps to
calculate the exposure time.
1. Mount the filter/s carefully: If you’re using lens filters, place them on carefully. Don’t touch
the focus ring or the camera.
1. Cover the viewfinder to avoid any light leaking in your sensor: In order to avoid any light
leaking, cover the viewfinder and your filter holder if needed.
1. Take the shot: Use the shutter release or the shutter delay to avoid any unwanted vibrations in
your camera.
1. Re-check histogram and focus.
1. Start again!
One of the tips for learning to photograph is testing your creativity with the long exposure technique.
Let’s look at the best settings to use.
Before you take long exposure photos, there are a couple of suggested settings you must consider:
Manual Mode: The first, fundamental setting is switching your camera to Manual mode (“M”)
or Bulb mode (“B”). Please note that some cameras automatically change from Manual to Bulb
mode when you go over 30″ of shutter speed.
Some smartphones normally incorporate this option; it’s called Pro Mode, where you can play with the
basic settings and then take long exposure photos on your iPhone.
Shoot in RAW: To get the highest-quality files and edit your photo after the session.
Metering mode: The Matrix mode (Evaluative mode in Canon) is the most common metering
mode, as it references the whole scene with an emphasis on where the camera is focusing.
Turn off the image stabilization (IS): Otherwise, your lens will try to compensate for any
movement and, consequently, will add blur to your photos.
Now let’s get into the basic settings for long exposure photography and how you should adjust them.
Focusing is one of the basics while doing long exposure photography. There is no way to fix a photo
that is out of focus in post-production; it’s one of the most common mistakes.
Even though it seems easy to take sharp images, there are some points you need to consider:
Focus before placing any filter. If you’re using ND Filters, keep in mind that they block the
light, so most cameras struggle to focus when you set a lens filter. The first step is to focus
without any filter, take a test shot, and double-check the focus before setting up any filters. This
is one of the most useful tips for focusing in photography.
Focusing at nighttime is always challenging. Check the focus section of this article to nail how
to photograph the Milky Way.
Regardless of the focus mode you use, either manually or using the autofocus, use the zoom in
the Live View Mode to find the sharpest point.
Using focusing techniques, such as focusing to the Hyperfocal distance or focusing on the first
third of your photo, are simple and easy ways to get the right focus in most situations.
Once you’ve focused correctly, switch to Manual Focus. Otherwise, your camera will try to
focus again.
Long exposure and shutter speed
Shutter speed is one of the essentials of long exposure photography, and it will have a drastic impact
on your final photos.
So, what is the best shutter speed for long exposure photography? The best shutter speed is the one
that fits the light situation and your intention. Understanding the final effects of using a shorter or longer
shutter speed is the key to getting the photo you have in mind:
Ultra-long exposure photography creates ethereal, abstract, and dreamy atmospheres because
you’re softening all the motion in your photo. The exposure time will be over 5 minutes, and to
get this long exposure, you have to use the Bulb mode. (Most cameras don’t allow you to take
more than 30 second long exposure photos without using this mode.)
A shorter exposure time maintains the details of the components that are moving in your photo,
creating a vibrant and dynamic impression while capturing the motion. The shutter speed will be
around 1 minute or less.
These exposure times are just a mere approximation and will vary based on your conditions and
environment. There are lots of factors that may influence the exposure time, so we’ve created the
ultimate cheat sheet for long exposure photography so you can calculate your shutter speed!
Also, you can learn more in-depth information in our shutter speed photography guide!
You should test your lens to determine the sweet spot, but it’s normally between f8 and f11 in wide-angle
lenses. You can learn more about how to calculate the sweet spot in our guide to aperture in
photography.
This basic rule for daylight long exposure can make it a little tricky to get a well-exposed photo. If so,
you’ll need to use ND filters to decrease a couple of exposure stops in your picture.
If you don’t have any filters to play with, you can choose a smaller aperture like f22 to take long
exposure photography. However, the smaller the aperture you adjust to, the more “optical diffraction”
you will get, which reduces the overall sharpness and quality of the photo.
For long exposure photography at night, choosing your aperture is easier. Just pick a wider aperture on
your lens, like f/1.4 or f/2.8, to capture more light.
Why? Using the base ISO on your camera, around ISO 100, will reduce digital noise and increase the
quality of your images. However, for nighttime long exposure, you’ll need to use a higher ISO.
Another thing to consider is the heat of the sensor when taking long exposures, which increases the
chance of some artifacts such as hot pixels and color noise.
There’s always a little room to play. Increasing the ISO a couple of stops won’t drastically affect the final
image in most cameras, so knowing the limits of your gear is essential. You can find more detailed
information in our guide to understanding ISO in photography.
I also highly recommend our guide on best settings for noise-free photos and, if noise does appear
(especially in night long exposure photographs), have a look at the best noise reduction software.
There are hundreds of apps to help you calculate your long exposure shot, but probably the most used are
Photopills and Exposure Calculator. Let’s see how to use them:
Last but not least, before using any long exposure calculator app, make sure that you understand how
exposure in photography works and how to strike a balance using the exposure triangle.
Now you have all the information you need to shoot long exposure photos. If you don’t know where to
start, here are the main types of long exposure photography.
You can also capture the motion of certain elements, such as shooting stars or the moon, with a long
exposure, but be careful because it’s easy to overexpose them due to their high brightness.
Whatever your aim is while using long exposure at night, you should consider reading this article to take
photos of the Milky Way as a pro.
The use of long exposure in a city or town will transform the view of it dramatically. If there’s some
light, there’s always a chance to do something amazing. Looking at, analyzing, and experimenting with
the environment (cars, ferries, wheels, boats, etc.) will expand your imagination and the way you
approach photography at nighttime.
Look for busy intersections and streets so you can incorporate the light trails into your long exposure
photos and enhance your composition.
Mastering your skills in long exposure photography in daylight will allow you to create interesting
perspectives and effects even if it’s a sunny day.
Long exposure in lakes is a bit different, since most of the time you want longer exposures to get
reflections.
If, on the other hand, you’re shooting a small river or creek, it might be better to take a shorter long
exposure to capture more detail in the water.
Also, there are different ways to approach long exposure photography while shooting at the beach.
You may want to show the movement of a wave, with shutter speeds around 1 second, or create a more
minimalist scene with longer shutter speeds, as we explain in our coastal photography guide.
Choosing the right conditions is crucial, as well as predicting the cloud’s movements. Stormy and windy
days, preferably during sunrise or sunset, are what you should be looking for. If there isn’t much
movement in the sky but there are still some clouds, you can do ultra-long exposure photography using
ND Filters.
With long exposure times over 5 minutes, you will be able to make the most out of the slow-moving
clouds.
Using ND Filters as the 10-stop filter in long exposure for black and white photography, you’ll be able
to create a minimalistic and abstract scene that will attract the viewer’s eye to your photo.
Today, most cameras and even the latest smartphones will allow you to do this technique, and, to be
honest, you can achieve great results just with basic long exposure photography equipment.
Generally, your budget and your photographic goals will dictate the equipment that you should use. Even
so, having an idea of your needs will save you precious time and some money. Let me give you an idea of
the ideal gear for long exposure photography.
It keeps Digital Noise under control: The best cameras to avoid digital noise are full-frame
cameras. If you want to shoot something more specific, you can check our articles on the best
cameras for shooting the Milky Way and the best cameras for Northern Lights photography.
Shoot in RAW: As discussed before, shooting in Raw will allow you to collect much more data
in your image and to achieve the best final quality.
Wide-angle lenses: Ideal for landscape photography, in particular for astrophotography, but
they’re also good lenses for architectural and cityscape photos.
Mid-range lenses: Good for light painting and focusing on details on the subject you’re
shooting.
Telephotos: The best for capturing details such as mountain peaks and rocks
I highly recommend you read this article about the best lenses to shoot the Milky Way and the best lenses
for Northern lights photography if you’re looking for a lens to do long exposure photography at
nighttime.
Depending on the light and your goals, you can choose between different opacities to adjust the shutter
speed that you need. There are many types of photography lens filters. The most common ND filters
for long exposure photography are:
3-stop ND filter (ND 0.9): It decreases 3 exposure stops. It’s commonly used when a shorter
exposure is needed, such as for shooting waterfalls or seascapes.
6-stop ND filter (ND 1.8): The best filter when the light isn’t too harsh. It’s commonly used for
sunrises and sunsets.
10-stop ND filter (ND 3): This filter is the way to go when you have to deal with hard and
bright light, especially while doing daytime long exposure photography.
One of the benefits of using a Neutral Density Filter is removing people with long exposure
photography. This is a good tip when shooting in crowded and touristy spots, so the longer your
exposure, the fewer the people in your photo.
Sometimes, even if we use a stable tripod and an intervalometer, our camera may suffer vibrations, due
to the wind, waves, or wet sand on the beach, or photographing in a city with a subway or from a bridge.
In these cases, it will be difficult for you to get sharp photos, but luckily, there is a lot of software to fix
blurry images. I use Topaz Sharpen AI.
However, remember that one of the best ways to improve your long exposure photography is by looking
at other photography examples, so let me show you some long exposure photography ideas to inspire
you.
In photography, it’s generally considered long exposure when the shutter speed is slower than 1/60th of a
second.
Remember that long exposure photography is also about “learning to see” things differently. It’s a genre
that takes some time and practice to master, but long exposure photography opens a new world of
possibilities.
I really hope this tutorial on long exposure photography increases your interest in this beautiful and
creative type of photography and shows you how to take the long exposure photos you’ve dreamed of.
Please let us know in the comments below if you have any questions related to long exposure
photography!