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DR Shaves Book of Shaving
DR Shaves Book of Shaving
DR Shaves Book of Shaving
Contents
03 Introduction
2
Dr Shave’s Book of Shaving
Introduction
Dr Shave aka Brian Mulreany getting good wet shaving results. I will
Sales Director & Co-Owner of personally reply to every enquiry by
The Executive Shaving Company ‘phone or email.
A lifetime wet shaver, previously using In most cases simply moving from an
Gillette cartridge blades, I began using a electric shaver or multi blade cartridge razor
Merkur safety razor, shaving brush and to a safety razor will solve problems such
shaving creams and soaps for the first as ingrown hairs, razor burn and excessive
around 1993. sensitivity. Sometimes it is poor shaving
technique that’s causing the problem, either
Since then I have test shaved more than way Dr Shave has a solution.
100 different razors, Merkur, Feather,
iKon, Above the Tie, Timor, Muhle and a Dr Shave knows that being clean shaven
selection of vintage safety razors too as is only part way to being recognised as
well as a few cut throats. a ‘well-groomed gent’, other important
matters to consider include dressing
I’m personally responsible for the appropriately for the occasion, choosing
successful launch of the Executive the right clothes for your age and personal
Shaving own brand range of razors, hygiene is of paramount importance.
brushes, balms, soaps and creams. Few things irritate Dr Shave more than
unsightly, protruding ear and nose hair,
Dr Shave loves to hear directly from bushy, unkempt eyebrows and dirty or Dr Shave
men who are yearning for the ‘perfect bitten fingernails. The worst crime is body
shave’ and from men who have problems odour, there is simply no excuse for that!
3
Dr Shave’s Book of Shaving
Dr. Shave’s Book of Shaving welcomes Then it’s time to put it all behind you. Let Shaving Tools – By this I mean
you into his world.This book will tell you Dr. Shave take you through his shaving razors, brushes, strops and everything
everything about the world of shaving and process, explain the do’s and don’ts and else associated with shaving.
provide the best ways of improving your help you to take proper care of your skin.
shaving experience. Achieve the ultimate shave! How to Shave – Step by step guide
containing the best hints and tips for
For many, the introduction to shaving Let me take you through: shaving using various types of razors.
involved watching their father slap foam
on his face, painfully scrape a safety razor History of Shaving – A fascinating Head and Body Shaving – A more
across it, and then go through the eye- subject but if you want to skip this and common practice these days, so you
watering ritual of applying aftershave. Keep find more pertinent needs I won’t hold should know how to do it properly.
those treasured memories but let Dr Shave it against you. You can always come
give you some better shaving advice. back to it when your partner has left How to Groom Your Beard and
you for not knowing about flint razors Moustache – Look after your facial
If you’ve ever: from 30,000 BC. forest or neat ‘tache and style it the
way you want.
Tried various shaving fads like a 5 In this history lesson I’ll tell you about
blade vibrating razor with built in light, early shaving tools, the reasons why Shaving Problems – Serious stuff.
sideburns trimmer and Flexball glide being clean shaven has its advantages Shaving sensitive skin, razor burn,
technology only to be disappointed. in the battlefield and also how it ingrown hairs and razor bumps are
Ripped your face to shreds using a cut helped prevent nasty diseases and all things that can be avoided with
throat or safety razor. infestations. the right technique, products, care
Found yourself disillusioned with the and attention. Let Dr Shave take your
vast array of shaving products that Shaving Creams – I’ll tell you about pain away.
claim to take you to the promised land the various types of lubricants, creams,
of ultimate shaves. soaps, foams and gels and share my
Been overwhelmed with the amount of valuable recommendations.
useless shaving advice out there.
4
Chapter 1
History of Shaving
5
Chapter 1
History of Shaving
6
Chapter 1 | History of Shaving
Around AD 100, when the Emperor straight razor, allowing only a small
Hadrian rose to power, it became portion of the edge to protrude. Perret
fashionable for men to wear beards. never patented his invention.
AD 476-1270 – during this time, the trend Early Safety Razor Improvements
was for ladies to painfully remove all and Shaving Soaps
hair from the body including eyebrows,
eyelashes, temples and neck in order to In Sheffield, England in the 18th and 19th
look chic. century, they produced steel straight
razors. Their main drawback was that
The Twelfth Century saw radical changes they became dull quickly, and so had
to the way many societies dressed and to be honed and stropped frequently to
groomed. At the start of the century maintain a sharp edge.
nearly all French men, for example,
wore full beards, but by 1400 most were France. Perret was a master cutler In 1847 a significant invention was made
clean-shaven. and famed author of Pogonotomie, au by Englishman, William Henson. Henson
L’Art D’Apprende à se Raser Sol-Méme created the first ‘hoe type’ razor with the
In the mid to late 1700s - men and (Pogonotomie, or The Art of Shaving blade perpendicular to the handle, just
women began to remove all hair from Oneself) in 1769 and L’Art du Coutelier like a garden tool - similar to what we’re
their foreheads in order to wear artificial (The Art of the Cutler) in 1771. The familiar with today.
press-on mouse skin eyebrows. original Dr. Shave!
This design made it easier to shave
Early Literature and Perret described a device he called a oneself, reducing the need for a barber
Safety Razor Evolution ‘rasoir à rabot‘– a plane for the beard, and became an overnight success.
which he had invented in 1762. It was
It is believed the honour of devising inspired by a carpenter’s plane, and The earliest known soap recipe was
the first safety razor goes to Jean consisted of a wooden sleeve that found in the Egyptian Ebers Papyrus, a
Jacques Perret (1730-1784) of Paris, enclosed the blade of an ordinary folding medical document from about 1500 BC,
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Chapter 1 | History of Shaving
The first patent for a safety razor was to 2.5 million blades in the second year
filed by the Kampfe brothers in the US of trading. Continual improvements have
in the 1880s. This featured a wire skin ensured that the company he founded
guard along one side of the razor’s edge. remains the leading supplier of shaving
Only one side of the actual blade was goods in the world today.
used and because it was made of forged
steel it had to be removed frequently for 20th Century
sharpening.
In 1910 an American, Willis G Hockey,
Despite this the Kampfe razor was the received a patent for the first mechanical
best safety razor on the market at the shaver. The ‘wind up safety razor’
which describes combining animal and time and it would take the intervention incorporated a pull cord to drive a flywheel
vegetable oils with alkaline salts to form a of the most famous name in shaving to that operated for a short period of time
soap-like material. change everything before it needed to be wound up again.
Soap making first became a commercial Time for Gillette In 1915 the Wilkinson Sword Company,
activity in the 19th century after a French a manufacturer of razor blades for men,
chemist Michel Chevreul discovered In 1903, Mr King Camp Gillette, together launched a campaign to encourage
the chemical nature of and relationship with William Nickerson launched a new women to shave their armpits. This was
between fats, glycerin and fatty acids. concept in shaving - the disposable based on the premise that it was both
Further advances during the industrial razor blade. Together with a modified unhygienic and unfeminine to keep
revolution saw soap transformed from form of safety razor designed to allow underarm hair.
an expensive luxury to an everyday the easy replacement of the worn blade,
necessity by 1850. this new innovation revolutionised the Another American in 1921, Lt. Col. Jacob
shaving market. Schick invented a new razor called the
Shaving soaps and aftershave lotions ‘magazine repeating razor’, which had
made from cherry laurel water also Gillette became an overnight success replacement razor blades stored inside its
appeared in the late 1800s. producing 90,000 razors and progressing handle. Blades were purchased in clips,
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Chapter 1 | History of Shaving
which were inserted easily into the razor. The Philips Company, of Philishave fame, Modern Day
Schick also began to develop his ‘injector produced electric razors in the years
razor’, which would become an extremely 1939 – 2006 under the Philishave brand Gillette manufactured carbon steel blades
popular shaver in the years to come. and still produces them today under the up until the 1960s but in 1965, the British
name of Philips. Wilkinson Sword Company introduced
In 1927 the same Colonel invented the stainless steel blades that, with no
World’s first electric dry shaver, with tendency to rust, could be used until blunt.
oscillating blades. This became available
to the public in 1929 but wasn’t met with Wilkinson Sword soon captured the
much enthusiasm. He had to wait another British and European markets and Gillette
two years until an electric motor had been were forced to switch to stainless steel
developed that was small enough to fit to compete.
into a hand-held device, yet powerful
enough to cut through a beard. Modern carbon steel blades are still
available and should not rust if rinsed in
In 1931, he sold his first electric razor alcohol after use - top tip!
in New York for $25 and managed to
sell another 3,000 that year. Schick’s 1974 - the first completely disposable
gadget caught the public’s imagination razor was introduced from Bic.
and by 1937, 1.5 million were in use. It
was not long before other manufacturers, Gillette’s response was the Good News
including Gillette and Remington, began disposable razor which was launched on
to produce their own electric razors. the US market in 1976.
Another important inventor was Prof. Now there are numerous disposable
Alexandre Horowitz, from Philips razors available, most of them designed
Laboratories in Holland, who invented the with the emphasis on economy and not
very successful revolving electric razor. shaving performance.
9
Chapter 2
Shaving Creams
10
Chapter 2
Shaving Creams
11
Chapter 2 | Shaving Creams
If you can’t get your hands on shaving Prior to your shave, lather up with a
cream, you could use regular facial shaving brush dampened with warm
soap in an emergency but only in (not hot) water and apply to the beard.
an emergency. If you don’t have a shaving brush,
apply the cream sparingly with your
Aerosol foams and gels are best left fingertips to the area to be shaved but
on the shelf - read the ingredients on frankly a shaving brush is far sexier for
these products! lathering up.
Shave as normal. Modern day shaving
The ultimate shave and correct skin care creams rinse away almost instantly,
can only be achieved if moisturising without a trace of residue.
shaving creams are used. Moisturising Benefits of Shaving Cream Good quality moisturising shaving
shaving cream is an ideal shaving creams are carefully formulated,
lubrication that provides both moisturising It softens the beard for a close and economical to use and give an
properties and good lubrication. comfortable shave excellent lather for a comfortable shave
It protects the skin from irritation and that leaves the skin exceptionally soft.
Moisturising shaving creams can be razor burn
used for all skin types. Normal to drier It leaves the skin feeling smooth As you may have gathered, Dr. Shave
skins will reap the most benefits. These and conditioned believes a good shave means using a
exceptionally rich and nourishing shaving Shaving cream is a perfect moisturising shaving brush and moisturising shaving
creams deliver the ultimate shave. solution for those with dry skin. cream or soap.
12
Chapter 3
Shaving Tools
13
Chapter 3
Shaving Tools
Razors Advances in razor technology changed If you opt to try out a straight razor do
shaving habits in the 20th century. ensure that you receive basic instruction
Razors come in many forms and in its use and that the razor feels
each have their advantages and In 1900, most men were either shaved by ‘comfortable’ in your hand. These days
disadvantages. Once you have finished the local barber, or periodically at home we have the benefit of YouTube.
reading this chapter you should be able when required, rather than regularly.
to purchase with confidence a razor that It may take many shaves before you
will be the best one for you. Straight / Cut Throat Razor Material can consider yourself a cut throat
razor wizard.
This is your razor. There are many like it In general, the blades of straight razors
but this one is yours. are made of steel; the more recent razors Please note: A cut-throat razor must be
have blades made from stainless steel. used with extreme caution.
History The manufacturer’s markings are often
found engraved or etched on the blades
Ancient Romans and Grecians used iron which may include the model number or
blades with a long handle and developed name of the razor.
the shape of the cut-throat razor which
was the only practical razor until the The handles of straight razors are made
19th century. from all sorts of different materials,
including wood, rubber, horn, ivory,
Improvements in steel manufacturing Bakelite, ivory, and metal. Inlays can
enabled cut throat razor blades to be be of mother of pearl, silver, gold,
made sharper and for the first time, they stainless steel, copper, ivory, wood
could be re-sharpened. and tortoiseshell.
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Chapter 3 | Shaving Tools
The straight-edge razor is also known as Make sure your razor is thoroughly dried
the cut-throat razor because, if misused, and aired before storing.
it is capable of cutting the throat.
When not in use for longer periods, it
A cut throat razor has a single straight is recommended that the blade of the
blade that is attached to a handle (the straight razor be rubbed with light oil
handles on cut throat razors are known as such as Muhle’s Razor Maintenance Oil.
scales) by a hinge and is stored by folding
it edge-first into a slot in the handle of Maintaining the Cutting Edge
the razor.
Experienced cut throat users know
Shaving with a cut throat razor or straight Cut throat razor and strop that the facet (blade) ‘grows’, i.e. the
razor is considered by many shaving microscopically fine ‘fin’ on the cutting
traditionalists as the very best way edge changes during the shave but returns
to shave. to its old position afterwards; it stretches
and again becomes extremely fine.
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Chapter 3 | Shaving Tools
The ‘fin’ will wear away at some stage abrasive paste and - for a final polishing
and a suitable strop should then be used. on a separate strop - with polishing
paste, which is worked in with a clean How to strop:
A strop is a strip of special soft leather cotton cloth.
with a hanging loop at one end used to With a flat angle lay the back
whet (sharpen) the blade. Usually a strop Straight razors are usually whetted in the of the razor on the strop
will have two sides; one made from fine factory for use (whetting on leather by Draw the blade along the
leather, the other from coarse leather. hand). If you ‘strop’ yourself, you must strop, away from the body
Other strops may have fine leather and first ‘rest’ the razor after use. Turn the razor over on its
either denim, linen or a fabric similar to back and draw it in towards
car seat belt material. After the razor has been carefully rinsed the body
and dried, it should not be used again for Note: Changing directions
If required, the fine leather side can be at least 24 – 48 hours because the fine without turning the razor over
rubbed with an extremely thin layer of fine ‘fin’ on the cutting edge straightens up makes the blade become
again extremely slowly. round (crowned) so that the
cutting properties are lost
If the razor is stropped too soon (or In this case, only re-sharpening
stropped incorrectly by moving it with a hone can help.
backwards and forwards without turning
it over), the ‘fin’ which is necessary for a
close shave breaks off.
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Chapter 3 | Shaving Tools
17
Chapter 3 | Shaving Tools
These beautiful razors are made in Japan Disadvantages: Too many to list in their
using hard grade materials; they use entirety but here are a few:
Feather injector blades which you replace
when they dull.
They don’t shave closely
Expensive to buy
These razors are very popular as they
They tend to push the hairs into the
deliver a shave comparable with a skin which can lead to ingrown hairs
traditional cut throat razor but without the
They pull and tug the hairs leading to
need for stropping or honing. irritation
They often result in razor bump and
This is 21st century shaving for those razor burn
who want a close yet hassle free shave
Encourages ingrown hairs, razor
with a cut throat razor. bumps and razor burn.
Dr. Shave now recommends these razors Dr Shave is not a fan of electric razors!
above traditional cut throat razors.
Safety Razors
Electric Razor
Initially, a safety razor will cost more than Safety razors
The electric razor (also known as the one of its modern Mach3 and Fusion
electric dry shaver) has a rotating or type counterparts. However, in the long
oscillating blade. It does not require the run a safety razor will prove itself to be a average about three times the price of a
use of shaving cream, soap or water, with cheaper alternative. pack of ten safety razor blades that will
the razor being battery or mains powered. last over three months! On that basis it’s
A pack of four Fusion razor cartridges, not hard to see how safety razor shaving
enough for about a month, costs on will benefit your pocket in the long run.
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Chapter 3 | Shaving Tools
Safety Razor Shaving These cartridges achieve their closeness skin and with fewer strokes. The huge
Benefits the Environment by stretching the skin with a layer of investment in research and development
rubberised ‘micro fins’, then by lifting has resulted in a razor that makes the
Firstly, you’ll use three times less razor the hair and slicing it off at a point closest shave more comfortable, with less
cartridges by using a safety razor; slightly below the surface of the skin. irritation, even when shaving against the
therefore, there is less waste for you to It is this overzealous closeness that direction of hair growth.
dispose of. Secondly, as safety razor causes many of today’s skin and
blades are made of a single metal razor shaving problems as, if shaved too This applies to fresh blades; blades used
blade, they can be easily recycled unlike closely, cut hair can grow painfully into more than 3-4 times will soon go blunt
today’s modern razor cartridges that are a the upper layers of the epidermis. and not preform as Gillette claim.
mixture of plastic and metal.
Once the hair follicles begin to do this, Gillette Fusion
Safety Razor Shaving Provides there is a high chance of causing ingrown
Better, More Consistent Shaves hairs, razor bumps and razor burn. The Gillette fusion range represents the
pinnacle of shaving and razor innovation
Today’s modern razors and electric This problem is severely reduced and (according to Gillette).
shavers are no match for a double-edged even removed altogether by shaving with
safety razor. a good quality safety razor, leaving your The problem with these blades is that
skin in excellent condition every time they are ridiculously expensive to buy
as they cut hairs directly at the skin’s and they don’t maintain their edge
surface. for more than a few shaves. One way
around this problem is to extend the
Gillette Mach 3 Shaving life of each blade by up to 150 shaves
by using a RazorPit Blade Sharpener.
The three bladed Mach 3 design was This cheap tool really does work
introduced by Gillette to allow for a very and comes highly recommended by
close shave with less pressure to the Executive Shaving.
19
Chapter 3 | Shaving Tools
20
Chapter 3 | Shaving Tools
Shaving Brush Bristles Many travel shaving brushes use It has a higher water retention
synthetic hair as synthetic hair dries capacity than synthetic bristles
A shaving brush’s value is determined almost immediately. But has a tendency to break more
more by its bristle type and density than readily than synthetic bristle.
any other factors. Prices for synthetic Synthetic bristles are generally cheaper
bristle brushes are the cheapest whilst and tougher than natural bristles, The Badger hair bristles are the finest and most
top-of-the-range brushes made of ‘New Generation’ of synthetic brushes luxurious material possible for shaving
the finest badger hair are much more produced by Vulfix / Simpson and Muhle brushes. Among their advantages are:
expensive. in particular are extremely soft on the face
and do retain heat and water in much
An ideal water retention capacity
Historically, well-to-do men would the same way a badger hair brush does.
They hold heat better than other types
generally shave with a badger hair However, earlier versions and cheap of bristles
brush, while commoners concerned import versions:
They create a superb lather
with colloquially proper aesthetics would
Badger hair feels smooth on the face
resort to cheaper versions made of boar Hold less water than natural bristle
Durability has not been matched by
or horse hair. brushes any other synthetic or natural material.
Take longer to work up a lather
A shaving brush was known in Europe And can feel rougher on the skin. Whilst some companies insist on using
as something of a status symbol, an other terminology, these four grades
expensive or eccentric brush was a way of Synthetic/natural bristles combine are commonly accepted among wet
asserting one’s personality and affluence. boar’s hair with synthetic bristles in an shavers to best describe the quality
attempt to improve the quality of the pure of badger hair:
These days modern materials mean synthetic brush but this:
that some synthetic brushes actually Pure Badger - Pure badger is the
outperform badger brushes in many Does not greatly affect the quality of term used to describe badger hair
respects. lather produced brushes using the most common hair
And is often as stiff and ‘prickly’ as a from the underbelly of a badger. This
synthetic bristle hair varies greatly in softness, pliability
21
Chapter 3 | Shaving Tools
and colour. The hair is usually dark Silvertip Badger - Silvertip grade hair Nowadays, shaving brushes are very
in colour, but fluctuates from a light comes from the back of the neck of similar in appearance, composition
tan to near-black or silvery sheen. the badger. The hair is finer than other and function to their centuries-old
It is generally coarser than ‘best’ or grades and it holds heat and water predecessors.
‘silvertip’ hair due to its larger shaft. better than all other grades. One way
Brushes made exclusively with pure to determine if a brush bears a ‘super’ Although a variety of different materials
badger hair cost significantly less than or ‘silvertip’ badger hair load is to look are still used to fashion shave brush
‘best’ and ‘super’ badger hair brushes. at the colour of the bristle tips. A true handles, synthetic handles of nylon,
‘silvertip’ brush has tips that are off- urethane or plastic are the most common
Best Badger - Best badger brushes white. A ‘super’ brush on the other even amongst the most expensive
are made with the fine and pliable hairs hand has bristle tips that are a more shaving brush manufacturers.
of the badger’s body. It is longer in sterile, slightly greyed white. The light
length and lighter in colour than ‘pure’ colour of the tips does not extend as The advantages of synthetic handles
badger hair. A ‘best’ badger brush is far down the shaft of the hair. Silvertip include:
more densely filled with hair than the hair is very soft on the face yet very
‘pure’ badger brush and will produce a durable too.
A lesser chance of breakage if dropped
correspondingly greater lather.
More resistant to damage by moisture.
Shaving Brush Handles
Super Badger Hair - This grade of Some people still prefer natural materials
hair is lighter in colour than Pure and The modern shaving brush may be such as wood or exotic materials such
Best grades as it’s taken from the traced back to France in the 1750s. The as tortoise shell, but these articles are
back of the badger where the hair is quality of these brushes differed greatly, more difficult to obtain and will be priced
lighter compared to the head and belly. as materials used to fashion the handles accordingly.
Usually Super grade hair has a black varied from the common to the exotic.
coloured band midsection and whiter, The handle is modelled ergonomically,
softer tips compared to Pure and Historically, it was not uncommon for allowing for a proper grip on the brush
Best grades. handles to be made of ivory, gold, silver, and is designed to feel well-balanced in
tortoise shell, crystal or porcelain. the hand.
22
Chapter 4
How to Shave
23
Chapter 4
How to Shave
Think that all you have to do to get a That’s right, it’s important the water
decent shave is to wet your face, add is warm:
lather and scrape away? Well, my friend,
nothing could be further from the truth. Soften the beard by washing your
Let Dr. Shave show you the way. face thoroughly in warm water before
shaving; or soak a face cloth in warm
To look your best and to experience water and hold it to your beard for 30
the perfect shave, time and time again, seconds to help soften the hair and
you must prepare thoroughly and allow skin
yourself enough time to do the job right. You may want to exfoliate using an
exfoliating cream to better prepare
Let’s look at the process of shaving from your skin and beard for shaving
start to finish. Apply a pre shave soap or oil before
shaving to soften the bristles. A pre
The four main stages of shaving to shave oil will soften the bristles and
perfection are: if you follow Dr. Shave’s tip, leave a
residue of lubricating oil on the face
Preparation Preparation to provide additional razor glide. The
Lathering up Executive Shaving Company Pre
Shaving When hair absorbs warm water it Shave Oil does this very effectively
Post-shave care. becomes softer and easier to shave and Rinse off some, but not all of the oil,
with warmth the skin and facial muscles leave a residue on the face, apply your
become relaxed, making shaving so shaving cream or soap on top of this
much easier. residue. This helps the razor to glide
24
Chapter 4 | How to Shave
smoothly across the face, making for a shave and will create a smooth lather
comfortable, closer, trouble-free shave leading to a closer shave. They also help
Take your time. Rushing leads to nicks to keep your skin soft and healthy.
and cuts and taking the time for good
preparation is essential to a quality
shave.
Tips:
Lathering Up
Soak the brush in warm (not
If you haven’t yet purchased a badger or hot) water for 20-30 seconds
synthetic hair shaving brush and cream to soften the bristles and let
or shaving soap, you clearly haven’t been the brush absorb water and
listening to Dr. Shave. If you have, well heat
done! Now it’s a question now of getting Apply shaving cream to the
the most from them. brush or lather up by brushing
vigorously over the soap
The cream can be applied directly to the Paint the lather onto face and
brush or put in a shaving bowl to make beard ensuring all areas are
a lather by rubbing vigorously with a well covered. Don’t splay the
shaving brush. hair, this will damage the knot
25
Chapter 4 | How to Shave
26
Chapter 4 | How to Shave
or once with the grain then once firstly in the direction of growth of the After your shave, apply some type of
across the grain before shaving against beard and then against the direction balm or skin food. Do not use an eau de
the grain. This is known as a ‘three of growth. Be careful to maintain the toilet or cologne as these are alcohol
pass shave’. angle; if held too flat, the razor rips based fragrances that will dry your skin
the stubble; if held too upright, it cuts rather than giving it the moisturisation it
Safety Razors vary greatly in their the skin needs after shaving.
aggressiveness. For example the Muhle Always move it at 90° to the cutting
R41 offers an extremely close shave, edge and never along the cutting edge; If you need to apply cologne, apply it to
while the Muhle R89 is a very mild yet always draw it through evenly and the back of the neck, the hair and the
effective shaver. hold it a little more upright at corners, chest, anywhere but the area you have
dimples and at the upper lip just shaved.
Cut Throat / Straight Razor Shaving If the razors edge gets damaged by
being dropped or pranged on the sink A good tip is to apply cologne on the
Shaving with a cut throat razor demands please examine it carefully for any upper chest, your body heat will activate
a different approach. nicks before using it again. If the razors the scent which will then be absorbed by
edge has been damaged you should your shirt so you smell nice - Dr. Shave is
Apply a rich creamy lather (as have the edge honed. Stropping does always fighting off the ladies with this tip.
described previously) not help here; the razor must be re-
When shaving with a straight razor you sharpened using a sharpening stone
must use your free hand to keep the
skin fairly taught Post-shave Care
Hold the open straight razor with a
thumb and three fingers so that the A great wet shave exfoliates, removes
opened holder points away from dead skin and cleanses the face and
your face leaves you feeling beautiful.
Then starting with the flat, smooth
areas of the face move the razor Now that your face is smooth and clean
holding it at an angle of about 30° it’s time to look after your skin.
27
Chapter 5
28
Chapter 5
It’s not just facial hair that Dr. Shave knows a specific head shaving cream such as
HeadBlade
everything about. I’m the top dog for HeadBlade Slick, simply put some into
everything shaving and in this chapter I’ll the palms of your hands and apply to
teach you how to shave your head, armpits the scalp
and pubic areas safely and comfortably. Wet razor with warm water and shave
in short strokes of 30-40mm at a time
You may wish to use a safety razor or Subsequent strokes are made from
a cartridge type razor. Either way be this starting point cutting close to the
sure to take note of my tips to avoid any scalp and at the base of the hair. Try to
unnecessary shaving problems due to avoid making repeat strokes over the
poor technique. same area so as to minimise the risk of
nicks and razor burn
For head shaving, consider using a shaving that delivers a close shave, we You can use a mirror if you like until
HeadBlade head razor and HeadBlade highly recommend HeadBlade. you gain experience – thereafter you
shaving cream, after shave balm and may find you can shave by touch alone
moisturiser. HeadBlade tools are Head Shaving with a Wet Razor After the shave, run your fingers over
specifically designed for head shaving, the scalp to feel for any bits you have
they are easy to use and it’s almost As with shaving the face, do not apply missed. Then carefully go over the area
impossible to cut your scalp as a too much pressure with the razor, use a again – always reapply shaving cream,
HeadBlade razor uses little wheels to ride top quality brush and shaving cream, use failure to do so may lead to razor nicks
the contours of your scalp. a fresh blade, and take your time. or razor burn
These little head razors are compatible Thoroughly wet the scalp Rinse your head with warm water to
with other cartridge razor blades Apply a generous layer of shaving remove all traces of shaving cream and
including Mach3. For safe, fast head cream with a brush or if you are using hair and dry off
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Chapter 5 | Head and Body Shaving
Apply after shave balm or other soothing For those who want to keep their body Don’t apply too much pressure with
agents. HeadBlade have a range of after hair trimmed rather than clean shaven the razor!
head shaving products that soothe and an electric trimmer is perfect for keeping A light touch with a new blade will
moisturise the shaved area things neat and tidy. It’s an extremely shave closely and be less likely to cut
If your first head shave is not close - easy way to keep hair short, even, and the skin
don’t worry - you’ll get a closer one as neat, and the trimmer can be used over Have someone help you shave your
you become more experienced. the entire area. However for a perfect, back and other inaccessible bits
hairless look you need to wet shave. Try to avoid repeated razor strokes
We know that lots of men buy travel over the same areas as this will lead to
shaving razors for head shaving, this is Body shaving is best achieved if these razor burn and maybe razor rash
because these razors are lightweight and basic rules are followed. Short side to side and up and down
have short handles making them ideal for strokes may be necessary on the
head shaving, these razors are available Remove long hair with a hair trimmer underarm, where hair grows in all
in Gillette Mach3 and Fusion and safety or scissors directions
razor versions. Wash the skin with warm water to Use short up and down strokes on the
soften the hair, open the hair follicle pubic area
Body Shaving and relax and cleanse the skin Rinse the blade often - a clogged
You may want to do this whilst in the blade is no good for shaving
People shave parts of their bodies for bath – be sure to shower afterwards to Make sure there’s still shaving lather
all sorts of reasons. I’m not going to remove all traces of soap and hair wherever you’re shaving
judge and I’m not going to tell people If you’re shaving your whole body do a When you’ve finished the shave, be
what to do either - I’m only here to tell little area at a time and take it slow sure to look after this now very delicate
you the best way to shave. Regardless Apply shaving cream to the area to be and sensitive skin!
of which part of your body you want shaved
to shave the same basic rules apply Use a new blade
to achieve a good shave and maintain Gently pull the skin taut - for the
soft, healthy skin. armpits raising the arm may be
sufficient for this
30
Chapter 5 | Head and Body Shaving
31
Chapter 6
How to Groom your Beard
and Moustache
32
Chapter 6
33
Chapter 6 | How to Groom your Beard and Moustache
Beard brush
34
Chapter 7
Shaving Problems
35
Chapter 7
Shaving Problems
Shaving Related Skin Problems Many side effects can be minimised by This condition is extremely common in
using a fresh blade, plenty of lubrication, people of African descent, who have
Shaving related problems usually respond avoiding shaving against the grain and curly hair. The good news is that they
well to a combination of proper shaving avoiding pressing too hard with the razor. can be mostly avoided by a proper
technique, equipment and products. shaving technique, indeed we have
Razor Bump / Ingrown Hairs helped many men over the years who
For tough or non-responding persistent wanted to wet shave but thought they
shaving problems, it is always best Some people have an adverse response couldn’t due to PFB.
to consult with a dermatologist. In to shaving called pseudofolliculitis barbae
this chapter I’ll tell you about the skin (PFB), or ‘razor bumps’ due to ingrowing An ideal shave cuts the hair flush with the
problems associated with shaving, how hairs. PFB are reddish or dark coloured, surface of the skin and avoids any undue
they are caused and what you can do to sometimes painful, raised areas and are friction or irritation to the surrounding
minimise or prevent them happening. especially common with curly hair. skin. If you suffer from razor bumps,
ingrown hair and shaving irritation, the
Shaving can have side effects including: These hairs, after growing a little above chances are that you are pulling the skin
the skin, have a tendency to curl and too taut during the shave and the hairs
Razor bumps grow back into the skin. This leads to are cut too short.
Redness the reddish, swollen areas, which can
In-growing hairs become infected. Bumps occur when Don’t pull the skin tight and see if it
Razor burn the hair is cut too short. Then, instead makes a difference.
Nicks and cuts of growing back out of the skin it curls
Razor rash. round and then grows into the skin layer.
36
Chapter 7 | Shaving Problems
Shaving Problems Geo F Trumper Skin Food is another use plenty of moisturising shaving cream
product that can be applied daily after or shaving soap, not face soap, as an
How do I Treat Razor Bumps and shaving. It is effective at fighting ingrown added cushion.
Ingrowing Hairs? hairs and helps calm redness associated
with shaving and waxing. Use a pre-shave oil, a shaving brush and a
If you can see ingrown hairs, try to tease good quality shaving cream or soap made
the tips of the hairs out of the skin. Soak Razor Burns from natural ingredients to avoid a reaction
a flannel in hot water and apply it to your to harsh chemicals. Make sure you have a
skin for a few minutes. This should soften Razor burns are burning sensations and rich, creamy lather on your face and try not
the hairs to enable you to pull the hair out irritation more often than not caused by to press too hard with the razor.
of the ‘bump’ with a pair of fine tweezers. applying too much pressure with the
Cut the loose end with a pair of scissors. razor and or, shaving with a blunt blade. Soothing Razor Burn
When too much pressure is applied there
Avoid shaving for a few days. Then cut is no effective barrier between your face There are 100s of after shave balms
the beard with scissors quite close to and the razor. available, some good, some not so
the skin. As the hair grows, it should good. The best ones will soothe, cool
grow slightly straighter and not back into The result is friction burns, more and moisturise the skin, our Executive
the skin. commonly known as razor burns. Shaving offering is made with water
drawn from a Scottish Loch, Intensive
Remember when you continue to shave Preventing Razor Burn Moisturising Balm. Dr. Shave has
not to pull the skin too tight or shave intensely moisturised skin because of his
against the direction of hair growth. The first thing to do is change the blade technique and the cream - smooth.
at least once a week - a new, sharp razor
An application of Aloe Clear can reduce blade will skim lightly over your skin Shaving Rash / Folliculitis or
the condition of ingrown hair, this roll-on without irritating it. Barber’s Rash
gel treats ingrown hairs, shaving rash,
shaving bump and cools and soothes Be sure to let the warm water soften your This is an infection of the hair follicles,
shaved skin. skin and hair before getting started, and particularly of the facial hair. It causes
37
Chapter 7 | Shaving Problems
red, painful and pus-filled blisters due to hairs, razor burn/bumps resulting from To avoid the problems associated with
an infection of the hair follicles. shaving, waxing, electrolysis and laser shaving, it is important that the proper
hair removal. technique be followed for shaving.
Shaving rash is more of a problem
with men who have curly hair and is How to Avoid Shaving Problems A shaving cream or soap should be
similar to ‘razor bumps’, the symptoms used prior to shaving, to lubricate and
are unsightly red or darkened, painful Experience has shown that shaving with a moisten the skin and facilitate a close
‘bumps’ which can lead to ‘scarring’ in double edge, safety razor tends to provide yet comfortable and pleasurable shave.
severe cases. These severe cases may smooth shaves with less chance of causing Needless to say, the equipment used
need treated with an antibiotic. shaving irritation and ingrown hairs than for shaving should always be clean and
electric razors and multi blade cartridge blades should be changed regularly.
Hairs are most likely to grow inwards razors such as Mach3 and Fusion.
if you pull too tightly on the skin whilst Avoid using a dull shaving blade as it can
shaving. The hairs raise out of the follicle Blades should be changed at least leave your skin red and blotchy.
when you pull the skin and after the weekly, more often if skin irritation
cut, the tip of the hair retracts into the persists. What Relief is Available?
follicle and curls into the follicle as it
begins to grow. This causes the shaving Shaving creams and soaps are important To achieve relief from these problems first
rash and razor bumps. To minimise any in the treatment of this condition, as check that the skin appears to be free
inflammation and irritation it is best to let a good lather will minimise the friction from infection – angry red areas or spots
the hair grow back until the rash is gone associated with shaving and reduce are symptoms – if present, treat with an
before you try removing it again. the likelihood of ingrown hairs and antiseptic solution or cream.
skin irritation.
Treatment of Shaving Rash What Treatments are Available?
Shaving foams and gels as previously
Shaving rash can be treated with stated are simply not up to the job and Treatment of tough cases of PFB often
Aloe Clear. Aloe Clear is a roll-on gel perform badly compared to quality requires prescription only remedies.
formulated to aid in the relief of ingrown shaving creams and soaps.
38
Chapter 7 | Shaving Problems
Vitamin A related products such as Retin it reduces razor burn, stops minor bleeds
A (tretinoin) or Differin (adapalene) may and kills surface bacteria on the skin.
be prescribed in some cases and work by
helping exfoliate skin both on the surface Now you have all the information you
and around the follicles. need and with good quality tools and
products and a clean sharp blade you
Skin Food and Aloe Clear is also helpful can enjoy the benefits of a perfect shave
for many PFB suffers. every day that leaves you looking and
feeling great.
For most people, these over the counter
products provide sufficient control of
shaving related problems. For tough or
treatment resistant shaving problems, it Shaving Problems
is always best to consult personally with
a dermatologist. www.executive-shaving.co.uk
39
EXECUTIVE SHAVING
www.executive-shaving.co.uk