I THE UK’S #1 TRAVEL MAGAZINE

UK EDITION // MAY 2021 // £4.95 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

WEEKEND
52 ESCAPES
WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES IN WALES, TAPAS TOURS IN
SPAIN & RAIL JOURNEYS THROUGH THE ALPS: THE BEST
SHORT BREAKS WITHOUT GETTING ON A PL ANE

Antarctica
Leave no trace: explore
the fragile frontiers
+ ALG ARVE
NASHVILLE
of the Southern Ocean PILGRIMAGE S

Cambodia
Discover local crafts &
cuisine in the shadow of
WIN!
10 NIGHTS IN THE
Angkor Wat’s jungle temples SCOTTISH HEBRIDES

ALSO: CARDIFF // CROATIA // GREENLAND // LJUBLJANA // MALVERN HILLS // TRIESTE

Taste the passion.
This is proper food: made with skill and care, by people who love what they do,
in a beautiful place. Real food, real drink, real Wales.

gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales
This is Wales.

f FoodDrinkWales T @FoodDrinkWales Food_Drink_Wales

 BY APPOINTMENT TO
HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II
SWAROVSKI OPTIK
SUPPLIER OF BINOCULARS

CL POCKET
NATURE
IN YOUR
POCKET
SEE THE UNSEEN
 May
2021

Contents

94

64 52 weekend escapes 94 Cambodia

Whether it’s by road, rail or
water, we offer plenty of ideas for
short getaways at home and away
82 Antarctica
Conservation is at the heart of an
adventure in one of the world’s
wildest and most fragile frontiers
In the shadow of Angkor Wat,
Siem Reap’s cultural scene offers
a modern foil to the ancient site Issue 92
106 Ljubljana
From prized local produce to The shores of Lake
leafy cycle trails, the Slovenian Buttermere, Cumbria, UK
capital is a green haven IMAGE: Jordan Banks

May 2021 5
 May
2021

Contents

23 46 58

SMART TRAVELLER 35 The word TRAVEL GEEKS

Author Hilary Bradt on a transformative trip
15 Snapshot 114 Travel Geeks
A sense of pride in Ethiopia 36 Kit list The experts’ travel manual
The must-have gear for trail running
16 Big picture 120 Pilgrimages
Preserving Serbia’s peppery tradition 39 Competition Could travelling with purpose be a post-
Win a 10-night trip through the Hebrides pandemic trend?
19 Hope blossoms
The green initiative brightening up our cities 41 Author series GET IN TOUCH
Marco Tedesco on Greenland
21 Saving the seas 32 Subscriptions
Sub-aqua tours with a conscience 42 Meet the adventurer Make the most of our latest offer
Vanessa O’Brien on her epic expeditions
23 Food 129 Inbox
A taste of the northwest Highlands 44 Online Your letters, emails and tweets
Highlights from the website
25 On the trail 130 Your pictures
A mighty hike through Liechtenstein INSIDER This month’s best travel photos

27 Rooms 46 Weekender: Istria

A modern take on traditional Trieste
28 Family
Six of the best educational adventures
30 Inside guide
The highlights and hotspots of Cardiff
33 Stay at home
An escape to the Malvern Hills
Tucked away in Croatia’s northwest corner,
the peninsula offers a serene Adriatic escape DON'T MISS
52 Eat: Algarve 12Photography
Fresh seafood and beautiful beaches set the Competition 2021
scene for a culinary revival in Portugal Our annual search for the best travel
photography is now open for entries
58 Sleep: Nashville
A brilliant and bold boutique hotel scene is 126 Events
making its mark on Music City Don’t miss these dates for your diary

G O O N L I N E V I S I T N AT I O N A LG EO G R A P H I C .C O . U K / T R AV E L F O R N E W T R AV E L F E AT U R E S DA I LY

6 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Contributors
Audrey GIllan
Portugal’s Eastern Algarve draws me back
time after time with its incredible food,
beaches and sunsets. The market in the old
fishing town of Olhão is one of the best in
the world and almost all of the produce is
caught, dug or picked locally. ALGARVE P.52
Travis Levius
Nashville is synonymous with country
music, but don’t underestimate its range
— beyond the strip lies a patchwork
of diverse neighbourhoods, cultural
attractions and a growing collection of
stellar boutique hotels. NASHVILLE P.58
Emma Gregg
I managed to fit in an extraordinary trip to
Antarctica and South Georgia just before
the pandemic. The memories have kept me
going since, including the weatherproof
coat with its dusting of salt crystals and faint
whiff of penguin. ANTARCTICA P.82
Mark Parren Taylor
Backpacker staple Siem Reap is reinventing
itself as a destination to match the lush
splendour of its near neighbour, ancient
Angkor. But although the past remains alive
here, it’s also a city that looks ahead to the
new dawn. CAMBODIA P.94
Jessica Vincent
Slovenia’s capital may be one of the
smallest in Europe, but when it comes to
saving the planet, Ljubljana is doing big
things, from bike trails crisscrossing a park
to restaurants focusing on seasonal and
locally sourced produce. LJUBLJANA P.106
8 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
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 Editor’s
letter Covid-19
The ongoing pandemic continues
to affect travel. Please note,

I
f the past year has taught us anything, it’s that we live in prices and travel advice are
times where little is certain. However, it seems trips are subject to change. Contact your
travel provider for the most up-
finally within our grasp and, with some caveats, even
to-date information. For the latest
destinations further afield are once again on the horizon. news on safe travel and border
So, this issue we celebrate weekend getaways. restrictions, visit fco.gov.uk
Remember them? Adventures that pack a host of
experiences into a handful of days — and offer instant
gratification as you maximise every available minute from
that much-needed break from routine.
DON’T MISS
We’ve selected 52 flight-free escapes for the year ahead,
many of which are just a short drive, train journey or ferry
ride away. And with 21 of them in the UK and Ireland,
there’s plenty to choose from right here on our doorstep.
With everything from puffin-spotting in Wales and
foraging in the French Alps to exploring Ireland’s Copper
Coast on wheels and sampling the Slow Food movement
Photography Competition 2021
in Italy, there are enough ideas to keep you inspired for a Calling all photographers — our annual
year of weekends away. competition is back for another year, and
we’re on the lookout for your best travel
And as the year progresses, hopefully more and more of
photos. Entries are now open (p.12)
those travel plans pencilled into your calendar will
become reality. Fingers crossed.

PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR

SUBSCRIBE TODAY

@patriddell
@patriddell

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10 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
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MADE WITH REAL SPITFIRE

TIME: 28/11/1940 – PLACE: 50.68°N – 1.830°W

S4 BLACKOUT

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

Available exclusively online...
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 PHOTOGRAPHY
COMPETITION 2021
SPONSORED BY

Among the most coveted travel

photography prizes in the country,
and now in its 10th year, the National
Geographic Traveller Photography
Competition 2021, sponsored by Nikon,
is open for entries. Submit your images
in up to six categories to be in the
running for incredible prizes and for
the chance to see your work in the pages
of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Have you got what it takes to win?

12 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 THE CATEGORIES

Food & travel Landscape

This new category calls for images that tell
a story from any stage of the journey from
field to fork. Think dynamic scenes of fishing,
farming or harvest, rich shots of bustling
street food markets, and images of chefs in
steamy kitchens.
From vast, panoramic vistas to drone
shots that capture the patterns of a terrain,
this category is all about offering unusual
perspectives on the world around us. Shots
should be executed with flair, creativity
and technique.

People
Travel portraiture means seeking out the
human stories within a destination. It requires
a compelling subject and an interesting
backdrop in which to frame them. Plus,
a little serendipity.
Wildlife
Witnessing animals in the wild is one of the
great joys of travel, but, as subjects, they
certainly don’t play by our rules. This category
calls for outstanding shots of creatures great
and small.

Urban environments Portfolio

Your composition should capture something
of the spirit of a city or town, be it figures
moving amid striking architecture, the energy
in recreational spaces or thoroughfares
depopulated by the pandemic.
Whether it’s Holi Festival in Kerala or surf
culture in Devon, your portfolio of up to 10
images of a single destination will tease out
different facets of a narrative to create a
nuanced and cohesive portrait of the place.

ENTER YOUR THE PRIZES

PHOTOGRAPHY GRAND PRIZE
FROM TRAVELS AT One grand prize winner will receive a stylish,
HOME OR AFAR state-of-the-art NIKON Z 6II MIRRORLESS
CAMERA WITH A 24-70 F/4 LENS worth £2,549.
NOW! Professional-grade features include a massive
24.5MP FX-format CMOS sensor, dual card
slots and 4K video capacity. nikon.co.uk

Use it to capture the spellbinding scenery

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Five runners-up will receive a NIKON D3500
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NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/COMPETITIONS
Competition closes on 4 July 2021 at 23:59 GMT. The winner must be a resident of the UK or
Ireland and aged 18 or over. Judges to be announced. See full T&Cs online.

May 2021 13
SMART TRAVELLER
What’s new // Food // On the trail // Rooms // Family // Inside guide // Stay at home // The word

SNAPSHOT

Baabile, Ethiopia
I met this woman during an assignment for an
organisation that carries out aid projects in
Ethiopia. She lives in the town of Baabile, in
the east of the country, where she and other
women take part in a community programme to
become small business owners. It’s a huge step
on their journey to independence. Even though
we didn’t share a common language, the woman
led me into her hut to show me a light bulb she’d
bought, dangling from the ceiling. Rarely has
an experience made such an impression on me:
standing in front of someone and looking into
such confident and happy eyes.
UTA GLEISER // PHOTOGRAPHER

utagleiser-photography.com
@utagleiser_photography

May 2021 15
SMART TRAVELLER

16 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SMART TRAVELLER

BIG PICTURE

Mira Kostic, Donja

Lokošnica, Serbia
Mira Kostic threads red peppers on a string
in Donja Lokošnica, a village in the valley of
the South Morava River. Around 250 of the
village’s 280 families grow peppers for the
annual paprika harvest, producing around
500 tons of the piquant powder each year.
But the tradition is slowly waning. With more
and more youngsters leaving the area, these
days it falls to the older generation to keep
this tradition going, and so I felt compelled
to preserve it through portraits like these.
VLADIMIR ZIVOJINOVIC // PHOTOGRAPHER

vladimirzivojinovic.com
@vladaa93

One of the winners of the National Awards in

the Sony World Photography Awards 2021.
worldphoto.org

May 2021 17
 SMART TRAVELLER

REPL ANTING

HOPE
BLOSSOMS
With rosier times ahead, the
National Trust is planting thousands
of blossom trees across the country
as symbols of regeneration

The custom of hanami — enjoying the transient beauty

of flowers — is an established part of culture in Japan.
In spring, the country’s parks and gardens are places
of pilgrimage for those seeking to bask in the beauty
of cherry blossom, and as we limp out of lockdown, a
similar appreciation is taking root here on home soil.
The National Trust is offering a sight for sore eyes this
spring in the spirit of hanami: circles of blossom trees in
cities across England, Wales and Northern Ireland, with
the aim of improving people’s access to nature.
The campaign will first come into flower at the new
London Blossom Garden. Part-funded by the People’s
Postcode Lottery and created in partnership with the
Mayor of London, the garden (at the Queen Elizabeth
Olympic Park, in the same London borough as the NHS
Nightingale Hospital) commemorates those lost to
Covid-19 and pays tribute to all Londoners.
It’s part of the National Trust’s aim to plant 20 million
trees by 2030 to help tackle climate change and create
new homes for nature. Clusters of blossom trees will soon
be appearing in cities such as Newcastle, Nottingham
and Plymouth, as well as other locations nationwide.
MPs in England, Wales and Northern Ireland will also be
offered a tree to brighten up their constituencies.
Partly inspired by the response to the Trust’s first
ever #BlossomWatch campaign — where thousands of
people shared blossom images to help lift the nation’s
spirits as England went into its first lockdown last year
— the organisation hopes these new trees will embed an
annual hanami-style marking of spring blossom season, Cherry blossom trees in
bringing everyone outdoors to reconnect with nature. full bloom, Greenwich
nationaltrust.org.uk/features/helping-communities- Park, London
blossom SARAH BARRELL

IN NUMBERS

UK TREE-PLANTING PROJECTS

2 million
Number of trees planted to help restore Scotland’s
30,000 hectares
Area of new woodland that must be planted
1.46 million
Number of trees planted by the Woodland Trust
IMAGE: GETTY

native Caledonian forest by Trees for Life, part- every year between 2020-25 for the between 2019 and 2020, creating some 805 hectares
aided by an active base of volunteers, including UK government to meet its net-zero of UK woodland. An additional 1.59m trees were
those on the charity’s regular conservation weeks. greenhouse gases target in 2050. planted via its free tree packs for schools and
treesforlife.org.uk theccc.org.uk community groups. woodlandtrust.org.uk

May 2021 19
  
 
 
 
 


      
   

   


ECO-DIVING
SAVING
THE SEAS
Our oceans are under
immense environmental
threat, but a raft of
organisations are offering the
chance to get involved and
help make a difference
Trinidad & Tobago
The coral-monitoring, non-profit Reef Check
operates a facility at ERIC (Environmental
Research Institute Charlotteville) where open-
water divers can learn to conduct their own
surveys. A one- or two-week EcoDiver course
involves daily research dives, information
from which will fuel a global database on reef
health. The resulting certification enables
divers to join surveys and contribute to
IMAGES: HARRIET SPARK – GRUMPY TURTLE CREATIVE; GETTY
conservation work. From US$450 (£325) for
two to three days. eric-tobago.org
Mexico
Fancy yourself as a marine biologist? PADI
Dive Center Dive Ninja Expeditions in Baja
California has research trips based on striped
marlin and the mobula ray migration. This
year, it’s releasing new expeditions on mako
sharks, silky sharks and grey whales. Guests
stay on the shores of the Sea of Cortez and
can join regular Dive Against Debris days.
Don’t miss the Ocean Stories free web series,
with talks on everything from free-diving to
shark photography. From US$1,850 (£1,340).
diveninjaexpeditions.com padi.com
SMART TRAVELLER
GREAT REEF CENSUS
Dive in and help protect
the planet’s largest
reef system. PADI and
Citizens of the Great
Barrier Reef recently
launched a census,
calling on citizen
scientists to help
analyse thousands of
survey images captured
last year. The data
will support research
into the health of this
stretch of coral reefs.
greatreefcensus.org
Portugal IN NUMBERS
Join an eco-dive school that’s doing its bit
to help clear Lisbon’s reefs of fishing gear, REEFS IN DANGER
plastic and other assorted debris. Some of
the waste is recycled while any functioning
gear is returned to local fishermen. Oyster 25%
of all marine species rely on coral reefs,
Worldwide has options that range from one
to four weeks with daily dives in the Atlantic. including sharks and sea turtles
Shared villa accommodation in a leafy Lisbon
suburb includes a pool and free yoga thrown 70%
into the mix. One week from £1,379, flights of all atmospheric oxygen is
produced by the ocean
excluded. oysterworldwide.com
Indonesia 100,000
marine mammals die every year
Beyond the coast of Bali rises Nusa Ceningan,
as a result of plastic pollution
a small tropical island where divers can
specialise in marine conservation. Join
PADI Dive Resort Ceningan Divers’ resident 275 million
people worldwide live in the direct
marine biologist in maintaining the
vicinity of coral reefs
mangrove nursery. The programme includes
dives, conservation workshops and PADI
specialities such as manta awareness. Last
640,000
tonnes of fishing equipment is left in
year, the resort also launched a collection the oceans each year and some of it can
of free online conservation workshops. take up to 600 years to degrade
From £1,407 per week. ceningandivers.com Sources: coralrestoration.org
STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO wwf.org.au oysterworldwide.com
May 2021 21

A TA S T E O F
NORTHWEST
SCOTLAND
Chefs and authors Kirsty Scobie and Fenella Renwick share
their favourite flavours from the shores of the Highlands
We live in Ullapool, a small fishing village
on the northwest coast of Scotland, where
around seven local creel boats, four local
trawling boats and more than a dozen
visiting boats land each week.
Our daily plans at The Seafood Shack are
normally based on whatever Kirsty’s partner
Josh’s fishing boat, Bon Ami, has dropped
off that morning. There’s always some
discussion, such as “Please can we have four
boxes of langoustines today?” or “Yes, we’ll
take 24 lobsters tomorrow”, but it’s always
changing and we’re never quite sure what
IMAGES: GETTY; CLAIR IRWIN
will be waiting for us in the morning.
Our scallop diver will randomly pop his
head in on any given day and say, “I’ve got
some scallops for you,” and within an hour
they’ll be on the menu. Our fishmonger is the
one who’s organised, though; twice a week,
we make a big white fish order with him.
KIRSTY SCOBIE
AND FENELLA
RENWICK are founders
of The Seafood Shack and
co-authors of the book
of the same name
seafoodshack.co.uk
Each week in the summer months,
our local oyster farmer drops off a
hundred fresh oysters, and within a few
days they’ll all be gone. We also jump
in the car once or twice a week to visit a
nearby smokehouse to collect some trout,
which is smoked in aged whisky barrels
and cured in honey; it’s the most delicious
smoked fish you’ll get.
We have disagreements — or ‘different
memories’ — on how and when we decided
to open The Seafood Shack, but we both
agree on why. Many tonnes of seafood are
caught in Scottish seas and then transported
straight out of Ullapool. We wanted to play a
part — albeit small — in keeping some of our
seafood local.
This is an edited extract from The Seafood
Shack: Food & Tales from Ullapool, published
by Kitchen Press (RRP: £20).
SMART TRAVELLER
Kirsty and Fenella’s
unmissable ingredients
SQUAT LOBSTERS
Also known as ‘spineys’, squat
lobsters are particularly common
off the northwest coast of Scotland.
They’re small, sweet and delicious when
cooked in a light, crispy tempura batter
with a side of roasted garlic aioli.
CRAB
There are two main ingredients within
a crab: white meat, which is flaky and
delicate, and brown meat, which is
smoother and more strongly flavoured.
White meat pairs well with simple things
like green herbs and zesty fruits, but
you can be more experimental with
brown meat — try adding spices like
ginger and chilli.
OYSTERS
Our local oyster farmer grows oysters
for three years before they’re sold.
They feed on plankton and filter
through the cold, pristine waters off
the west coast. They have an almost
creamy texture and are full and plump;
we like them raw, with a spritz of
lemon and a dash of Tabasco.
MUST-TRY DISH
Langoustines are best
enjoyed pan-fried
in butter with whole
garlic cloves and plenty
of pepper and salt,
then served hot with
a wedge of lemon and
freshly baked bread
for mopping up the
delicious, sweet juices.
FROM LEFT: Boats on the shore,
Ullapool; freshly cooked langoustines
May 2021 23
 THE M A STERC L A S SE S
EXPERT-LED SESSIONS ON TRAVEL WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY

National Geographic Traveller’s

The Masterclasses returns from BOOK
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24 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SMART TRAVELLER

ON THE TR AIL

LIECHTENSTEIN 6

Discover the highlights of the microstate

by hiking the newly launched, 47-mile
Liechtenstein Trail. Words: Jack Palfrey
5
1 GUTENBERG CASTLE 4
Start in the south, where the first
notable landmark on the route is
Gutenberg Castle, looming large
over the town of Balzers from
its hilltop perch. The romantic-
style, white-stone fortress was
built in the 13th century as a
private abode for wealthy barons,
but now even the thriftiest of 3
travellers can enter its grounds
free of charge. Gutenberg is
one of five strongholds on
the trail, despite the fact that
Liechtenstein is one of the few 2
countries in the world without
its own army. balzers.li

2 VADUZ
Five miles north of Balzers is the
country’s capital, Vaduz, with
its eponymous castle — home to
none other than Hans-Adam II,
Prince of Liechtenstein
— dominating the city’s skyline.
Drop into the National Museum
to eye some of the prince’s most
prized possessions, including
artwork and ceremonial
weaponry, before heading 1
to the Herawingert ‘princely
vineyard’ to sample a royally
approved glass of wine or two.
landesmuseum.li hofkellerei.at

3 RESTAURANT RÖSSLE 4 CHAPEL OF THE HOLY CROSS 5 GROSSABÜNT 6 RUGGELLER RIET

Taverns play a crucial role in Following the track north from From the Kreuzkapelle zu The final section of the hike
the culture of Liechtenstein, Schaan, hikers will happen upon Rofenberg the trail winds west cuts through the Ruggeller Riet,
IMAGE: GETTY. ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE

hosting stammtische (regular
get-togethers) where locals sip
beer and chew over public affairs.
Located in the town of Schaan,
Restaurant Rössle has been
welcoming hungry punters for
nearly 200 years, and makes for
an ideal pitstop along the trail.
Its menu features local favourites
including schnitzel and
käsespätzle (a cheesy pasta with
apple sauce). restaurant-roessle.li
the Kreuzkapelle zu Rofenberg
(Chapel of the Holy Cross in
English). This unassuming 16th-
century church is a waypoint
on the Camino de Santiago, and
drawings from early pilgrims
are scrawled all over the walls
inside. The square in front of the
church also served as the public
court, where prisoners were
sentenced to grisly ends in the
gallows across town.
towards the Rhine, marking the
border with Switzerland. Due to
the large marshlands, this region
was a hotbed for malaria right
up until the 19th century, when
the wetlands were eventually
drained. Thankfully, no such
fate has befallen the outdoor
swimming lake at the Grossabünt
leisure complex, perfect for
revitalising weary limbs on a
warm day. grossabuent.li
the largest nature reserve in
Liechtenstein. The protected
peatland area is home to more
than 1,000 species of animals,
with birdlife that includes
cormorants, kingfishers and
Egyptian geese. The reserve is at
its most alluring in early summer,
when the Siberian iris blankets
the park’s meadows. From here,
it’s a short walk to Schaanwald,
the trail’s end point. tourismus.li

May 2021 25
 Destination: Warsaw
If you’re looking for a holiday destination this year that’s safe and will offer everything you
expect when travelling, consider Warsaw.

It might not seem like the obvious choice, but Poland’s capital is a remarkable, fascinating city with a rich
history, interesting architecture and plenty of green space. Its residents are creative, open and friendly to
visitors. You won’t find crowds of tourists here, but you’d be surprised at the number of inspiring spots
hidden across Warsaw. Choose what you want to see!

The Old Town is listed Almost 100 parks and city beaches that Excellent cuisine based on local Culture: numerous museums,
as a UNESCO World Heritage number among some of the most beau- products, a haven for vegans a busy calendar of events
Site / photo City of Warsaw tiful in the world / photo City of Warsaw photo Shaiith, Fotolia photo E. Lach, City of Warsaw

www.go2warsaw.pl
/go2warsaw

W H E R E TO S TAY
TRIESTE
The Italian city is mixing up its boutique hotel
scene with a dash of contemporary design
THE MODERNIST HOTEL
Italy’s liminal city, tucked up in the northeast corner on
the Adriatic Sea, has long seemed wedded to a bygone
era. Until 1918, this was the main port of the Austro-
Hungarian Empire; today, it’s an alluring combination
of Italy and Vienna, with frothy Habsburg buildings
swaggering onto the ever-blue Gulf of Trieste, and
Viennese-style coffeehouses.
OTHERWISE SPECIFIED. IMAGES: ROBERTO PASTROVICCHIO PHOTOGRAPHY
So this hotel, which opened in August 2019, is
ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLE ROOMS, B&B, UNLESS
something of a departure for the city. Bright colours,
contrasting shades and ceilings emblazoned with literary
quotes — none of these fit with local tradition. But
Trieste is also known for its small jewel-box hotels, and
this 56-room venture — the latest property for the people
behind the more traditional Hotel Continentale — is a
daring evolution.
As the name suggests, what’s on offer are retro-chic
rooms. Headboards might be leather-bound or door-like
blocks of canary yellow wood; walls are subtly striped
with the individual colour palettes; bathrooms decked
out with brick-like white tiles. Downstairs, meanwhile,
the restaurant serves classy business lunches on mid-
century-style armchairs and mustard-yellow banquettes.
The hotel is a brave reimagining of a 130-year-old
palazzo in Borgo Teresiano, the Austrian-planned
neighbourhood, and there are hints of its decadent past
everywhere. Still, instead of pausing the past, this new
property takes it forward. From £114. themodernisthotel.it
SMART TRAVELLER
RESIDENZA LE 6 A
This lovely hotel has just six rooms, each
named after a female character in the works
of local novelist Italo Svevo. The annexe,
La Settima A, has another five rooms with
kitchenettes, named after James Joyce
characters. Guests also get a free coffee at the
historic coffeehouse Caffè San Marco.
From £74. residenzale6a.it
L’ALBERO NASCOSTO
Tucked behind the Piazza Unità d’Italia is
the unassuming little ‘Hidden Tree’, whose
simple rooms give a hint of the countryside
in an 18th-century city house. Want more
privacy? The hotel has four apartments
nearby, including one overlooking the Gulf of
Trieste. From £115. alberonascosto.it
PALACE SUITE
This art nouveau palazzo in the fancy part
of town off the main drag of Corso Italia is
home to 16 swish, modern suites, from the
mini, sofa-studded studios with kitchenettes
to a bilevel, balcony-fringed family one. It’s
actually the annexe of the Hotel Continentale FROM LEFT: Modernist
across the street, where breakfast is served. L room; stairwell, The
From £91. palacesuite.com JULIA BUCKLEY Modernist Hotel
May 2021 27
SMART TRAVELLER
FA M I LY
SCHOOL OF LIFE
Learning doesn’t just belong in the classroom — online
or otherwise. Plan a great escape with education in
mind for an unforgettable family adventure
Best for history
ITALY: Deciding where to start a grand
educational tour of Italy can be a little
overwhelming. Intrepid Travel will help you
get your bearings — the Rome to Amalfi
Coast itinerary starts off in the Eternal City,
with guided tours around the Colosseum
and catacombs, before heading south to
Pompeii and on towards Capri. An eight-day
family holiday starts at £1,630 per person.
intrepidtravel.com
Best for physics
ICELAND: Well away from the city lights, the
thick ribbons of the Northern Lights will
amaze curious-minded children. Aurora is
the reaction of energetic particles from the
sun colliding with the Earth’s magnetic field,
and one of the most spectacular examples of
physics in the natural world. And this being
Iceland, you can throw in some geology,
too, with a swim between two continents
at Thingvellir National Park. Discover the
World can tailor-make family itineraries to
Iceland. discover-the-world.com
28 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Family exploring
Rome and the
Vatican, Italy
BELOW: Fancy dress
at Just So Festival
Best for literature
EDINBURGH: Kids might roll their eyes
at the thought of a ‘walking tour’, but
a darkly magical ramble through the
city is sure to cast a spell. It was here
in Edinburgh’s old town that author JK
Rowling fleshed out and wrote the Harry
Potter series. And during this tour, fans
of the books can pay their respects at the
grave of a poet whose name is believed to
have inspired one of Hogwarts’ professors,
and wander down the ‘real’ Diagon Alley.
Tours are free. pottertrail.com
Best for geography
CHILE: Want landscapes that are
out of this world? Chile doesn’t
disappoint. There’s the Andes,
the Atacama Desert and, further
south, the lush fertile valleys of
the central region, and the peaks
and glaciers of Torres del Paine
in Patagonia. TravelArt has just
launched its 12-day Heartbeat
of Chile tour, from £3,503 per
person. travelart.com
Best for classics
GREECE: From sage-scented
hiking trails to historical relics,
there’s plenty on the agenda for
families joining Peter Sommer’s
Cruising the Aegean trip. Sailing
around the Dodecanese Islands
in a Turkish-style gulet, the trip
explores fallen columns and
dark tombs, with expert guides
on hand to talk you through it
all. Eight days from £2,895 per
person. petersommer.com
Best for the arts
CHESHIRE: This year (fingers
crossed), the UK’s festival
scene is set for an almighty
revival. At the Just So Festival at
Cheshire’s Rode Hall, children
can let their imaginations run
wild with a packed programme
of campfire tales, woodland
cinema, workshops and more.
20-22 August. justsofestival.org.uk
HELEN WARWICK
IMAGES: GETTY; CHRISSIE WILD PHOTOGRAPHY
 Take them on an audio
adventure this summer

Listening is believing Stories | Music | Learning

SMART TRAVELLER

INSIDE GUIDE

CARDIFF
From the centre to the suburbs, the Welsh capital is always reinventing
itself, whether through its diverse architecture or dynamic dining scene

It might be Britain’s youngest capital city (having held
the title since 1955), but what Cardiff lacks in titular
heritage it makes up for with a knack for reinvention. Its
once woebegone docks have arguably become Europe’s
boldest waterfront development and a showpiece for
21st-century architecture, while edgy restaurants are
redefi ning the city’s dining scene. When you consider
the city is also renowned for its elegant Victorian and
Edwardian shopping arcades, museums, live music and
a proud industrial heritage, Cardiff is, perhaps, whatever
you wish it to be.
Get your bearings at CARDIFF CASTLE . The fort is
Norman at its core, but the flamboyant, 19th-century
reconstruction of the castle apartments is its most eye-
catching element. Various tours can include behind-the-
scenes explorations of seldom-glimpsed, astoundingly
decorated rooms, and you can also admire the beautiful
building free of charge from the castle courtyard.
cardiffcastle.com
The nearby NATIONAL MUSEUM CARDIFF ranks among
Britain’s fi nest neoclassical buildings, and its collections
of impressionist and post-impressionist works is world-
class. Don’t miss the multimedia Evolution of Wales
exhibit, which whisks visitors through 400 million years
of geological development with VR-rendered prehistoric
beasts. museum.wales/cardiff
Combine historic sightseeing with retail therapy in
the city’s seven Victorian- and Edwardian-era ARCADES,
or the impressive CARDIFF MARKET, flanked by many of
the city’s most exciting shops and restaurants. Stop by
the delightfully old-fashioned WALLY’S DELICATESSEN
in Royal Arcade or pick up gluten-free picnic fare from
NOGLÜ at Cardiff Market. Alternatively, book a table at
THE CLINK RESTAURANT, where prisoners serve standout
Welsh-European food as part of their cookery training.
thecityofarcades.com cardiffcouncilproperty.com/cardiff-
market wallysdeli.co.uk noglu.uk theclinkcharity.org
Much of Cardiff ’s charm and character lies outside the
centre. Meander through picturesque BUTE PARK and
along the River Taff to leafy PONTCANNA , with its avenues
of grand townhouses. An Eden for leisurely lunch-seekers,
the area is home to raft of spots to refuel, including chic
bistro MILKWOOD and roastery-cum-workshop LUFKIN
COFFEE ROASTERY, tucked away in Kings Road Yard.
milkwoodcardiff.com kingsroadyard.co.uk lufk incoffee.com
Multicultural CANTON is where you’ll find the self-titled
‘nouvelle Keralan restaurant’ PURPLE POPPADOM and,
further afield, DUSTY KNUCKLE , which has transformed
a corner of an industrial estate into a creative pizzeria.
purplepoppadom.com dustyknuckle.co.uk
Cardiff ’s east side also deserves your attention. Over
in ROATH , the city’s fi rst permanent street food venue,
STICKY FINGERS STREET FOOD, is ensconced in a red-brick
industrial building with an ever-changing array of local
culinary names serving casual-but-creative fare under
one roof alongside a lively bar. stickyfingersstreetfood.com
But for the best example of the city’s exciting
renaissance, look no further than CARDIFF BAY, the city’s
ultra-modern waterfront. One of the area’s landmark
buildings is the COAL EXCHANGE . Once the hub of the
world’s coal trade, in October 2020 it began a new life as
Cardiff ’s largest independent hotel. Nearby, the WALES
MILLENNIUM CENTRE is the country’s main performing
arts nexus, wrapped in slate mined from the five quarries
that spearheaded Wales’ industrial revolution. But most
interesting here is CARDIFF BAY BARRAGE , the ingenious
dam that transformed the bay from mudflats into
sparkling sea. coalexchangecardiff.co.uk wmc.org.uk
About five miles outside the city is ST FAGANS
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY, set over more than
100 acres of parkland, which paints a vivid timeline
of the nation’s story through a number of re-erected
original buildings from various historical periods.
museum.wales/stfagans LUKE WATERSON
IMAGES: 4CORNERS; THE CLINK RESTAURANT; GETTY

LIKE A LOCAL
NOOK THE HEATHCOCK UISCE
Jane Cook’s top This cosy neighbourhood From homemade pub Pontcanna-based Uicse

dining spots restaurant by Victoria
Park specialises in
Cardiff native Jane seasonal veg dishes that
Cook runs food and share the spotlight with
sustainability blog, carefully sourced meat
Hungry City Hippy. and fish. The menu is
hungrycityhippy.co.uk complemented by natural
wines. nookcardiff.co.uk
snacks and hearty sharing
pies to more refined
dishes like langoustine
with braised fennel and
crispy oyster, this pub-
restaurant in Llandaff puts
the focus on the food.
heathcockcardiff.com
(pronounced ‘ish-ka’), a
casual-dining add-on to
Tommy Heaney’s flagship
restaurant next door,
doubles down on what
the chef is known best for:
seafood. heaneyscardiff.
co.uk/uisce

30 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
SMART TRAVELLER

View of Cardiff Castle

from Bute Park
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
Castle Arcade; Wales
Millennium Centre; dish
at The Clink Restaurant

May 2021 31
 +
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S TAY AT H O M E
MALVERN HILLS
Embrace the great outdoors in this bucolic corner
of Worcestershire, where elegant towns and rolling
hills sit side by side
Why go
From Dickens to Darwin, the list of Victorian
luminaries who regularly decamped to the
spa town of Malvern is extensive. Small
wonder: thanks to its picturesque location
amid the Malvern Hills and the healing
qualities of its water, the bustling town
thrived in the 19th century, and its historic
heart, Great Malvern, still retains much of
its elegant architecture today. It’s the ideal
starting point for exploring the Malvern Hills
— an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty,
whose volcanic hills are threaded with
hiking and biking trails. visitthemalverns.org
What to do
The cinematic scenery of the Malvern
Hills, along with landmarks such as Giant’s
Cave, likely inspired writer J R R Tolkien,
who enjoyed walking in the area. Follow in
his footsteps and head off on a hike, but if
you’d prefer to take in the scenery on two
wheels, there are numerous flat bridleways
and quiet country lanes, too. Should music
be your thing, call in at The Firs in Lower
Broadheath, a charming country cottage that
IMAGES: GETTY
was the birthplace of composer Edward Elgar.
You’ll find his desk and gramophone, along-
side original manuscripts for works including
Land of Hope and Glory. nationaltrust.org.uk
SMART TRAVELLER
Where to eat DON’T MISS
The Chase Inn, on the western slopes of
the Malvern Hills, welcomes weary walkers Easily reachable on foot
with excellent Sunday roasts. Elsewhere, at from Great Malvern,
the award-winning L’amuse Bouche, at The
Cotford Hotel in Great Malvern, chef-patron Worcestershire
Chris Morgan serves a mix of modern and Beacon’s 1,394ft
traditional French-style plates, such as
Hereford beef with ox cheek croquette and
summit is the highest
pearl barley risotto. thechaseinnmalvern.co.uk point of the Malvern
cotfordhotel.co.uk Hills, offering sweeping
We like views of 13 counties.
The vast Italianate mansion of Witley Court You’ll also find a
and Gardens was devastated by fire in 1937, but
its spectacular shell and landscaped gardens
toposcope pointing out
remain intact. Admire the ornate pavilions, all the peaks visible on
grand porticoes and exquisite flower beds,
a clear day — a replica
and ponder the Gatsby-esque balls that took
place here in the 1890s. themalvernspa.com of the one built to
commemorate Queen
Where to stay
If it’s R&R you’re seeking, The Malvern is a Victoria’s Diamond
modern spa hotel that draws on the area’s Jubilee in 1897.
rich wellness heritage. It’s kitted out with all
the facilities you could wish for, including
an indoor-outdoor pool, salt grotto, crystal ABOVE FROM LEFT: Footpath on
steam room and herb sauna. Doubles from Herefordshire Beacon in the Malvern
£151, B&B. themalvernspa.com Hills; Malvern Priory and The Abbey
JAMES MARCH hotel, Great Malvern
May 2021 33
 ALCHEMISE
NATURE & CULTURE
INTO YOUR OWN
JAPANESE
TRAVEL STORY

The TOKAIDO is not only Japan’s,

but one of the World’s most
storied & pictured roads.
Connecting the Shogun’s power-
seat Tokyo with the Imperial
Capital Kyoto, its 53-stations
inspired woodblock artists
Hiroshige & Hokusai, who in turn
influenced Van Gogh and a
generation of western
impressionists. Tokyo & Kyoto
are now recognized as two of the
World’s premier travel
experiences, yet, even as Japan
has blossomed as a tourist
destination, the Tokaido remains
undiscovered, thanks mainly to the
iconic Bullet Train which runs close
by. Until now … During the
pandemic, The J Team, Japan’s
original DMC, has developed
cycling, walking and adventure
experiences to allow guests to
alchemise the Tokaido’s unique
combination of NATURE &
CULTURE into personal travel
stories that will last a lifetime.

Contact THE J TEAM: www.thejteam.jp

@tjt_japan

HAVE HORSE, WILL TRAVEL
The latest book from Hilary Bradt, pioneering author and co-founder
of Bradt Travel Guides, recalls a transformative 1,000-mile journey
on horseback through 1980s Ireland
IT REALLY WAS THE TRIP THAT CHANGED ME.
It was the first time I had travelled on my
own since my marriage had ended, and I
had to build up my confidence and cope
with the responsibility of looking after an
animal as well. It had been 40 years since I’d
owned a horse, and a few years since I’d even
ridden one. I gradually learned to relax and
take every day as it came, and to enjoy the
challenges. I grew confident about finding
cross-country routes, rather than sticking
to the roads (there were few decent maps
of Ireland in the 1980s). I also became a lot
braver about asking for help and directions
when needed. I had to: every evening I
needed to find accommodation for myself
and the pony, and even had to hitch a lift,
for the two of us, across the River Shannon.
NATURAL READER: BOOKS TO INSPIRE WILD EXPLORATION
OUTLANDISH
Nick Hunt explores
Europe’s unexpected
landscapes, from a
patch of Arctic tundra in
IMAGE: GETTY
Scotland to a primeval
forest in Poland and
Belarus. (John Murray
Press, RRP: £16.99)
T H E WO R D
THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING NEW TO DISCOVER
IN IRELAND. I’m fortunate to have a wide
range of interests, so I was as elated to study
the Book of Kells in Dublin as to spot an otter
or a medley of seabirds.
IRELAND WASN’T SO DIFFERENT TO LATIN
AMERICA AND MADAGASCAR, WHERE I’D SPENT
TIME TRAVELLING. The similarities were
striking: hospitality, curiosity and some
reluctance to change the way of life that had
worked for previous generations. It was a
couple of years before the Irish government
was able to encourage the Celtic Tiger boom,
which characterised the next two decades.
There I was, clip-clopping through a country
that was much the same as the Ireland my
parents had enjoyed on holiday, where there
WHEN WE WENT WILD
The debut children’s
book from
conservationist
author Isabella
Tree charms young
readers with the
power of rewilding.
(Ivy Kids, RRP: £7.99)
SMART TRAVELLER
A Connemara pony
near the Twelve
Bens mountains,
County Galway
were few cars, many farms and small-holdings
were self-sufficient, and a good moan about
the government made everyone feel better.
MY FINAL GUIDEBOOK WILL BE ABOUT
SOCOTRA, AN ISLAND OFF YEMEN ABOUT THE
SIZE OF CORNWALL. It’s one I produced with
my friend and co-author Janice Booth last
year. Now, the thought of tackling somewhere
like Madagascar, with all the work involved,
makes me feel exhausted. That said, I have
loved doing the three Slow guides to Devon,
and there’s still a chunk of mid-Devon that’s
undescribed, so never say never...
A Connemara Journey: A Thousand Miles
on Horseback through Western Ireland,
by Hilary Bradt, is published by Bradt Guides,
RRP: £12.99. INTERVIEW: SARAH BARRELL
THE PADDLEBOARD BIBLE
All you need to know
about paddleboarding,
from the basics of
getting up and moving
to finding the best spots
for wild adventures.
(Adlard Coles,
RRP: £18.99)
May 2021 35
SMART TRAVELLER
K IT LI S T
TRAIL RUNNING
1 GARMIN ENDURO GPS
MULTISPORT WATCH
After a surge in interest in trail
running in 2020, Garmin has
introduced this smartwatch, that
delivers specialised features in
spades: a solar-charging lens for
enhanced battery life (up to 80
hours in GPS mode), precise GPS
even in remote locations, VO2
max tracking, upcoming climb
insights and ascent planning,
and recovery data. RRP: £799.
garmin.com
2 NIKE AEROBILL TAILWIND
RUNNING CAP
The running cap has an 4 breathable blend of merino wool
adjustable fit, with moisture
wicking to keep sweat out
of your vision, while laser
perforations at the sides enhance
breathability, keeping you cool.
Made using up to 50% recycled
materials. RRP: £23. nike.com
3 SALOMON ADV SKIN 12 TRAIL
RUNNING PACK
With integrated, easy-access,
soft-flask hydration packs and
12 litres of space for belongings,
this is the pack for longer runs.
The snug and adjustable fit
allows you create a shape that
works for your own body
— helping to eliminate chafe
and increase stability.
RRP: £125. salomon.com
TRAIL RUNNING TRAINERS
MERRELL AGILITY PEAK 4
These cushioned trail runners are flexible yet
stable and sturdy, with enhanced grip for rocky
terrain or wet surfaces and a foam midsole for
lightweight comfort. RRP: £120. merrell.com
36 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Whether you’re running up
a mountain trail or jogging in
the forest, here’s the kit you’ll
need. Words: Nora Wallaya
4 PATAGONIA AIRSHED PRO
2
PULLOVER
Designed specifically for
the often-chillier climes of
mountain landscapes, this
lightweight pullover is fast-
drying, breathable and comes
with longer sleeves to cover your
hands. Plus, it’s water-repellent,
and packs small — easy to stow
3
away in your pack. RRP: £100.
patagonia.com
5 ICEBREAKER COOL-LITE MERINO
IMPULSE RUNNING SHORTS
These lightweight running
shorts are made using a cool,
and a fabric made using wood
fibre, which wicks moisture to
keep you dry. They don’t crease
and have a water-repellent fi nish
5 to keep you protected from light
rain. RRP: £60. icebreaker.com
6 BEATS POWERBEATS PRO
A perennial favourite, these
earphones deliver powerful
sound, wirelessly, and with great
battery life — up to nine hours
of listening time. The adjustable,
hooked design helps means they
remain comfortable and stable
during your run, even on
the bumpiest terrain.
6 They’re also sweatproof
and water-resistant, too.
RRP: £220. beatsbydre.com
THREE MORE
NEW BALANCE FRESH FOAM HIERRO V6 ON CLOUDULTRA
They’re supportive, lightweight, and have Designed to tackle even the toughest terrain,
enhanced foam cushioning, a reinforced toe box these trail runners feature pioneering technology
and laser perforations for extra breathability. that relieves foot swell with an adjustment tool
RRP: £125. newbalance.co.uk on the laces. RRP: £160. on-running.com
 ver
We co vel
ra
your t es!
s
expen

Zanzibar Awaits You!

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WIN
A 10-NIGHT ISLAND-HOPPING
TOUR IN SCOTLAND
National Geographic Traveller (UK) has teamed up with McKinlay Kidd to
offer an incredible 10-night adventure for two through the Western Isles
THE DESTINATION
Scotland’s Western Isles offer some of the
most atmospheric landscapes in the world
— craggy mountains and soaring glens,
tumbling waterfalls and turquoise seas.
Discover ancient monuments, including
the intriguing standing stones of Callanish
on the Isle of Lewis, as well as a host of
epicurean treasures, such as whisky and gin
distilleries and world-class seafood. From
the wildflower meadows of Barra to the
dramatic peaks of Skye, an island-hopping
tour through the Inner and Outer Hebrides is
an unforgettable adventure.
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; DENNIS HARDLEY
COMPETITION
FROM TOP: Evening light at Uig Bay, Isle
THE PRIZE
of Lewis; the CalMac ferry departing
Courtesy of UK & Ireland tailor-made
Oban on its way to Barra
specialists McKinlay Kidd, the winner and
a guest will set off on a 10-night, self-drive
odyssey, with two nights on the Isle of Barra,
two on the Uists, two on Harris, two on
Lewis and two on Skye in accommodation
hand-picked by McKinlay Kidd. The prize TO ENTER
includes ferry travel with CalMac for a car
and two passengers from Oban to Barra, Answer the following question
throughout the Hebrides and from Harris to online at nationalgeographic.
Skye, where it’s a drive back to the mainland. co.uk/competitions
Fully personalised trip information will also
be provided. mckinlaykidd.com HOW MANY NIGHTS WILL
THE WINNER SPEND ON THE
ISLE OF LEWIS?
Competition closes on 31 May 2021. The
winner must be a resident of the UK &
Ireland aged 18 and over. Full T&Cs at
nationalgeographic.co.uk/competitions
May 2021 39

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR // MARCO TEDESCO
GREENLAND
Measuring the dramatic changes afoot on this island unveils the mysteries of
rising sea levels and the realities of life in this fast-vanishing part of our world
T
he helicopter is finally taking off.
It’s my first time flying like this and,
as we start levitating over the sea
of icebergs below us, it feels as if a giant is
gently picking us up with two fingers. We’re
in the coastal town of Ilulissat, Greenland,
heading toward the ice fields. As we reach the
front of the ice sheet, the greens and blues
of drowned icebergs become more vivid.
But it isn’t time, yet; white and grey clouds
mix with the ice contour. Low visibility,
the greatest enemy for a helicopter flying
in these locations, forces the pilot to signal
what I’d been fearing: we need to head back.
Though grateful for such safety
consciousness, I’m disappointed. I’d been
preparing for this, for longer than I can
remember. But the reward arrives just a few
hours later when the fog lifts. Back up in
the air, blue skies now crown the majestic
ice sheet, and the excitement rises with the
possibility that we’ll soon be stepping out
onto an alien world. We land, as planned,
near one of many supraglacial lakes formed
by meltwater collected in topographic
depressions. As my boots touch the ‘ground’,
such as the ice is, I feel reborn. Left foot first,
my right balancing on the helicopter runner,
then the right foot: I’m in deepest Greenland.
It took 10 months of preparation and a
lifetime of dreams to get here. I move around
cautiously as if, at any moment, a beast
half-orca, half-wolf could come out from
the water, as local Inuit legend narrates.
Cryoconite holes, made by windblown glacial
dust, scatter the surface like black pearls on
a desert of ice. There’s no smell, no sound or
noise. Instead, the landscape is filled with
hues of blue, grey and white. The solitude
that usually accompanies my thoughts
dissolves as I become more acquainted with
this new sense of simply ‘being’ in such a
humbling place; a feeling that will become a
friend during summers here.
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
Our camp is already up, the crew are
ready, and there’s nothing, surely, that can
stop us now. Yet as we deploy one of our
instruments into a supraglacial stream (one
of the thousands of waterways that feed
Greenland’s lakes with meltwater), a team
member slips in. Grasping at the slushy,
viscid wet ice with his bare hands, it’s as if
The fragility and vulnerability
of the ice sheet is the fragility
of our society; of people in
developing nations who’ll pay
the higher price for changes
they’re least responsible for
making; of the biodiversity of
our planet that’s the recipe for
life as we know it
SMART TRAVELLER
he’s being swallowed into the slimy mouth
of a monster. Fortunately, he remains within
reach; the stream is shallow enough for us
to quickly pull him out, shaking from the
trauma and the cold of the water. We recover
quickly but it’s a reminder of the dangers of
exploration here.
But it’s vital exploration, sampling snow
to study how it turns into ice and in turn
what this can tell us about Greenland’s
contribution to rising sea levels. We compare
the data we collect with that acquired by
drones, aeroplanes, satellites and computer
models, with the goal to improve our skills,
as a species, to do something that other
species can barely conceive: anticipate the
future. We’ve looked into the infinitesimal
world of cryoconite holes, filled with algae,
bacteria and strange, resilient microscopic
animals such as ‘moss piglets’ (tardigrades),
to help understand life in the vast universe
in which we all flow.
When I look at the surface of Greenland
from a helicopter, I think of the skin of an
elephant: rugged, covered in cracks and
showing the signs of the inexorable, natural,
passing of time. Here, we’re far from the
noise of ‘civilisation’, from the fumes of cars
and factories, far from cities that scream
with evidence of ongoing climate change,
from extreme floods and hurricanes. But up
here, the violence of man still exists, quietly
but swiftly destroying in a few decades the
ice that took thousands of years to form.
The fragility and vulnerability of the ice
sheet is the fragility of our society; of people
in developing nations who’ll pay the higher
price for changes they’re least responsible
for making; of the biodiversity of our planet
that’s the fundamental ingredient for the
recipe of life as we know it. I see the face of
Greenland being transfigured by us and yet
I keep dreaming of the day where this giant
could trust us as much as I trusted it when I
first stepped onto its delicate surface.
Ice: Tales from a Disappearing World, by Marco
Tedesco, is published by Headline, RPP: £14.99. Marco
Tedesco is a scientist at the Lamont-Doherty Earth
Observatory at Columbia University, adjunct scientist at
NASA GISS, both in New York, and affiliated professor
of the Scuola Superiore Sant’Anna in Pisa, Italy.
May 2021 41
SMART TRAVELLER
MEET THE ADVENTURER
VANESSA O’BRIEN
The British-American explorer discusses conquering the Earth’s highest peaks
and her voyage into Challenger Deep, the world’s deepest ocean trench
What was it like descending into Challenger
Deep, and how was it done?
It was surreal climbing into a titanium globe that slowly
sank into darkness. The bottom, which took four hours
to reach, looked like the moon. It’s a highly unusual and
unexplored place.
Reaching the bottom — 35,843ft under the Pacific
Ocean — requires a submersible that can resist immense
pressure. This new two-person vessel could make the full
journey, complete the survey and mapping works, and
allow us to take water samples to test acidification. We
know very little about the bottom of the ocean — 90%
isn’t mapped, which is staggering.
Were you ever afraid?
No, I’m never afraid. With the extreme amount of focus
and concentration that it takes — and this is as true on
the mountains as it is underwater — there isn’t really
room for fear. Things will go wrong. Some batteries will
die and you’ll think, what if we can’t get up? But the only
thing you do is troubleshoot and get into a left-brain way
of thinking.
How does it feel to be the first woman to reach
both the highest and lowest points on Earth?
It means a lot to hold this record because by the time
I was born, all of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks had
already been summited. Even Challenger Deep had
already been reached.
42 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
When I talk to students, they ask “why should we
bother if it’s already been done before?” And I tell
them that the planet is constantly changing, and there
are always ways to participate and give back through
mapping and survey work, film and photography, and
understanding human limits using your own body. No
two journeys are ever exactly the same.
Why did you decide to be a mountaineer?
I wasn’t working as a result of the 2008 economic crisis,
and having nothing to do is dangerous for me. I was
having an existential crisis. Then one day, somebody
suggested climbing Everest and it just resonated.
The penny dropped.
But after I summited Everest, it still wasn’t a good
time to go back to work. I picked up a map and looked
at the Seven Summits [the highest mountains on each
continent], and there was Denali, the highest in North
America, calling to me. Each continent has a climbing
season, and they all follow each other, so Denali follows
Everest, Elbrus [Europe’s highest] follows Denali, and so
on. That’s how it all started.
Which of your expeditions proved the most
challenging and why?
For me, it was K2 [the world’s second highest mountain]. I
never thought it would take three attempts, but each one
taught me something important.
The first year, we made it to Camp 2, but I realised
it would be too risky to summit as a large team. The
second year, I led my own expedition, but an avalanche
tore through stashed equipment, supplies and oxygen
at Camp 3, and I realised I wasn’t as independent as I
thought. The final year was also tough — we were the
only team to summit. I gained a love and appreciation
for Pakistan, which would never have happened if I’d
hightailed it out of there after a year.
What advice would you give to those who want to
follow in your footsteps?
I think of mountaineering as a metaphor. It’s there to
inspire people — especially girls and women — to do
anything they want to do. Dream big and bold. It doesn’t
IMAGE: ALEX BUISSE – ALEXBUISSE.COM
have to be conquering a mountain. Have confidence and
curiosity. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes and take
calculated risks.
INTERVIEW: FARIDA ZEYNALOVA
RE AD THE FULL
In 2017, Vanessa became the first British woman to climb K2. In 2020, INTERVIEW
she became the first woman to journey into Challenger Deep. ONLINE AT
To the Greatest Heights: Facing Danger, Finding Humility, and NATIONAL
Climbing a Mountain of Truth is out now. Quercus Books, RRP: £20 GEOGR APHIC.
vobonline.com CO.UK/ TR AVEL
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W H AT ’ S O N L I N E

BREAKING GLASS CEILINGS

IN BOTSWANA’S BUSHLANDS
Florence Kagiso became one of Africa’s first female guides 17 years ago. Today, she heads up
an all-female team in Botswana’s Chobe National Park. Interview: Emma Gregg

Chobe National Park, in Botswana’s
northeast corner, is famous for having the
highest concentration of elephants in Africa.
But its safari offering also stands out for
another reason: Chobe Game Lodge, the only
permanent lodge within the park, is home
to Africa’s fi rst all-female guiding team,
established with Florence Kagiso in the mid-
2000s, known as Chobe’s Angels.
What first sparked your interest in the
natural world?
I grew up among wildlife, in the Okavango
Delta. My mother and grandmother taught
me to live with animals peacefully, and to
respect and appreciate nature. I remember
learning to stay downwind from elephants,
to avoid detection and confrontation.
What obstacles did you face in the
early stages of your guiding career?
I started back in 2004, when it was an
entirely male-dominated industry. During
training, the men said: “Ladies should do
something else, women can’t do this!” I was
scared that maybe they were right. But I soon
realised that women can do it.
At first, I always had to do better than the
men: find more animals, know more facts,
change a tyre faster. But now, in our all-female
team, we work together: there’s not so much
pressure to prove yourself.
Do you find guests have preconceived
ideas about safari guides?
Some of the guests expect the guides to
be strong, confident men. So when a lady
picks them up, they often think you’re just a
transfer driver.
As soon as they see you can do your job
well, they feel comfortable. It’s important to
have confidence in your guide, and for us to
have confidence in ourselves.
In Botswana, do safari companies help
women juggle their career and their
family responsibilities?
Here in the lodge, we have strong women
making the decisions and we’re very
successful. We need that everywhere. When
women are empowered and earning, they
invest this back into their communities
much more than men. There’s no hunger,
there’s no struggle. READ MORE ONLINE NOW
AT NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

TOP
STORIE S
Here’s what you’ve
been enjoying on the REGENERATIVE TRAVEL HOW I GOT THE SHOT COVID-19
website this month Rewilding projects to Capturing Marrakech’s Will vaccine passports get
discover in the UK colourful tanneries us travelling again?
Tourism and rewilding combine Photographer Nico Avelardi Could this pave the way for the
to offer unique experiences discusses his latest assignment return of international tourism?

44 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 ONLINE

T H E B E S T C I T Y- B R E A K D E S T I N AT I O N S B E YO N D T H E
T R AV EL S EC T I O N
F O R V E G A N T R AV E L L E R S
The destinations with the most dynamic vegan scenes might surprise you. From
Warsaw to Seoul, we investigate the best cities for plant-based dining. Words: Liz Dodd

Warsaw, Poland Bangkok, Thailand

This multifaceted city is one of the top
vegan-friendly cities in Europe, and
the downtown district of Śródmieście
Południowe has become the epicentre of
plant-based dining. Ramen bars jostle for
space with vegan bakeries, sushi restaurants
and Polish diners. Veganism here goes
hand in hand with political activism, and
the wholefood co-ops and cafes are a great
introduction into Poland’s counterculture.
Bengaluru, India
Bengaluru’s vegans blend their own milk and
cheese from cashews to add creamy textures
to dhals, create new curries based on
heritage grains like millet, and craft syrupy
desserts from dates. Visit V V Puram Food
Street, a busy market where monks fill up on
snacks such as dosas (remember to ask for no
ghee, which is a form of clarified butter).
Like many things in Thailand’s capital,
Bangkok’s vegan scene is split across two
extremes. At one end, fine dining: you can
nibble mushroom larb at Michelin-starred
80/20 or tuck into shiso (a herb in the mint
family) sorbet at Mia. Alternatively, head to
the stalls around Buddhist temples to try
soy-based ‘fishballs’ and ‘shrimp’. The annual
vegetarian festival is another reason to visit.
Seoul, South Korea
Temple food is the main focus of South | S P A C E |
Korea’s thriving vegan scene. Sanchon’s
16-course menu offers a variety of dishes One of these astronauts may be
within this cuisine, while Maji is a diminutive the first woman on the moon
locals’ place with lots of character. Most Eighteen US astronauts have been
exciting of all, though, are the new plant- chosen to train for NASA’s
based startups, which omit adding shrimp Artemis programme, which aims
paste to their kimchi. READ THE FULL STORY to return humans to the lunar
ONLINE NOW surface by 2024

| A N I M A L S |

The deep-sea sharks that are

IMAGES: GETTY; NICO AVELARDI; ALAMY; VISITSCOTLAND/
KENNY LAM, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; BILL INGALLS, NASA

among the world’s largest

glowing animals
A new study has found that three
species of deep-sea shark,
including the six-foot-long kitefin
shark, are bioluminescent

| S C I E N C E |

How viruses shape our world

Covid-19 is a reminder of their
destructive power — but they’re
also crucial to humans’
development and survival

S E A RC H F O R
N ATG E OT R AV E LU K

FAC E B O O K
I N S TAG R A M
T WITTER

CULTURE LONDON ARCHAEOLOGY PINTEREST

The world’s best historic Six unmissable international Beyond Stonehenge
bookshops food shops Seven hands-on UK sites that
From Portland to Paris, our There’s a world of ingredients and let you dig a little deeper into
editors round up their favourites culinary cultures to be discovered ancient history

May 2021 45
 WEEKENDER

ISTRIA
Plunging into the Adriatic, Croatia’s northeastern peninsula
is a quiet retreat from the region’s bustling hotspots,
with secluded coastal hideaways, limestone peaks and
spectacular ancient history. Words: Chris Leadbeater

I
stria isn’t the sort of place that likes to
interrupt. Stand on the shore anywhere
between Fažana and Umag, as the sea laps
the shingle and families chatter quietly, and
you’ll understand: a 60-mile-long peninsula
that juts down, like the lower half of a diamond,
below Slovenia and the northeastern corner of
Italy, this is Croatia at its unhurried best.
True, there are towns — and one city, Pula
— dotted along its west coast, where the
Adriatic meets the shore under the shadow of
chic hotels. But venture inland, and the region
reveals its rustic heart, one where wineries and
truffle farms are tucked into the landscape,
mountains rising up silently on the horizon.
With life moving at a gentle pace, Istria is
easily explored. Thanks to excellent roads, you
can drive from the bottom to the top of the
peninsula in an hour, which means more time
to absorb its most captivating qualities — from
quiet coves to Roman ruins and restaurant
terraces — without ever feeling in a rush.

The seaside town of Rovinj,

overlooking the Adriatic
RIGHT: Drinks on a terrace
in Rovinj old town

46 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

DAY ONE SEAFRONT TOWNS & BEACHES
MORNING
Base yourself in Poreč, the west-
coast town that’s thrived on its
natural harbour for the best part
of three millennia. The historical
highlight is the Euphrasian
Basilica — a sixth-century feast of
mosaics and piety that was added
to the UNESCO World Heritage
List in 1997. The core of the town,
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK
squeezed onto a narrow peninsula
of its own, spreads out in the
shadow of this celebrated church,
and the seafront promenade of
Obala Maršala Tita is perfect for
a leisurely wander. Don’t miss the
main square, Trg Marafor, which
was once the Roman Forum; the
‘Romanesque House’ on it dates to
the 13th century.
AFTERNOON
Head to the beach. Generally,
things are less busy the further
south you go: you might not meet
another sunbather if you aim for
Marić Beach, just beyond the
village of Barbariga. Elsewhere,
Stella Maris Beach, in northerly
Umag, is something of a local
hotspot attracting the area’s
families, who come for the calm,
sheltered lagoon and loungers on
the shingle. If you’re looking for
a more secluded spot, go further
north still, to the uppermost edge
of the peninsula, where Kanegra
Beach barely emerges from the
trees. The view is international:
Portorož, on the opposite edge of
the bay, is in Slovenia.
EVENING
Rovinj is arguably Istria’s
postcard statement; pinned to
a bluff that sticks out into the
Adriatic with narrow, slanted
streets and houses steepling
above passersby. All routes lead
upwards, to the 18th-century
Church of St Euphemia, which has
a baroque facade that’s so striking
it competes with the wider
panorama of orange rooftops
and the coast stretching out in
each direction. Have dinner at La
Puntulina, an elegant spot serving
wonderfully fresh seafood.
Alternatively, if you’ve retreated
to Poreč, Restaurant Marconi
has an outdoor seating area in a
courtyard behind the basilica.
TOP 5
Fine-dining
restaurants
PLAVI PODRUM
Istria has a growing
reputation for top-level
cuisine. Its high standards
are best savoured at this
little spot, semi-hidden in
the fishing village of Volosko,
near Opatija, where sweet
slivers of scampi carpaccio
are paired with local wines.
plavipodrum.com
SAN ROCCO
If you didn’t know it was
here, you wouldn’t notice
this chic spa-hotel. It waits
in the unassuming village of
Brtonigla, five miles inland
from Novigrad. But as
well as 14 rooms, the hotel
comes with a restaurant that
revels in tasting menus and
seasonal ingredients.
san-rocco.hr
MENEGHETTI
Another rural hideaway, near
Bale, southwest of Rovinj,
Meneghetti spoils diners with
delicacies like monkfish tail
in bisque foam. It also has a
private beach club, hidden at
the end of a trail through its
vineyards. meneghetti.hr
MONTE
High up in Rovinj’s old
town, Monte made Croatian
headlines in 2017 when it was
hailed as ‘spectacular, almost
theatrical in its presentation’
by Michelin, which awarded it
the country’s first star. Run by
chef Danijel Đekić, it’s feted
for its suckling pig. monte.hr
RESTAURANT BADI
Folded into the fields on
the edge of Lovrečica on
the coast, Restaurant Badi
speaks proudly of its wine
list, which incorporates Italian
and Istrian vintages, as well
as its traditional Croatian
buzara (seafood stew), and
hearty homemade pasta
with regional truffles.
restaurant-badi.com
May 2021 47

DAY TWO ISLANDS & MOUNTAINS
MORNING
Hop on a ferry and head two
miles off the coast to the Brijuni
Islands, a national park since 1983.
Veliki Brijun is the largest of the 14
outcrops – hire a bike at the dock
and pedal up to the remarkable
Brijuni Cretaceous Park, at the
north-west end of the island. It
preserves a series of dinosaur
footprints, fossilised in the rocks
along the water. No less wonderful
is Verige Bay, a horseshoe inlet
where you can paddle in the
shadows of a first-century (BC)
IMAGE: ALAMY
Roman villa. Ferries depart from
Fazana, five miles north of Pula,
roughly every 90 minutes in
daylight hours.
AFTERNOON
Once back on the mainland,
delve into the Istrian interior: a
gloriously mountainous backdrop
to the glittering coast. In its
northeast corner, the drive from
Pula up through the limestone
summits of the Učka range is
dramatic, rising steadily through
Pazin and Lupoglav past some
of the region’s most spectacular
scenery. Učka Nature Park was
one of the first projects by the
Croatia that emerged from former
Yugoslavia; inaugurated in 1999, it
has miles of forested slopes and
hiking trails — one of which winds
all the way to the top of Vojak, the
highest peak at 4,580ft.
EVENING
Don’t dash back west just yet;
instead, follow the road as it
coils down to the peninsula’s
east coast, where various
villages illuminate the waterline.
Mošćenička Draga is one of them,
with a pebbly beach and a clutch
of restaurants including Konoba
Zijavica, where the likes of tuna
tartare are served at tables right
next to the shingle. To the north,
the village of Lovran is equally
attractive, its maze of alleys
dominated by the butter-yellow
tower of the Church of St George.
If time is on your side, there are
plenty of good hotels, parks and
bustling restaurants to visit.
WEEKENDER
THREE TO TRY
Gourmet
experiences
KOZLOVIĆ
Croatia’s wine industry has
been growing in stature
for a number of years, with
Istria playing its part. This
respected producer, located
up at Momjan in the north
of the peninsula, is open for
tasting sessions. kozlovic.hr
PRODAN TARTUFI
Istria’s fertile soil is widely
known for its truffles. Prodan
Tartufi is a family-run farm in
idyllic Buzet, where guests
can join the guides and dogs
on hunts for the revered
gastro gold. prodantartufi.hr
AURA
Also in Buzet, Aura stiffens
sinews by distilling a range of
brandies flavoured with local
fruits and herbs. Try before
you buy and sample one
of the blends distilled with
cherries, wild apples or even
olives. aura.hr
ABOVE: Istria, Labin, View
of old town and mountain
Vojak in distance
May 2021 49
WEEKENDER

ISLAND RETREAT

Before they
were a national
park, the Brijuni
Islands were a
haven for Josip
Broz Tito, the
dictator who
ruled Yugoslavia
from 1953 to
1980. The White
Villa, the crash-
pad he had built
for summer
visits, is still there
on the west side
of Veliki Brijun

THREE MORE PULA ATTRACTIONS

With a population of just 58,000, the only city in Istria packs a lot into its small size and has plenty to
keep visitors entertained for an afternoon
PULA ARENA
There’s a significant strand of
Italian to Istria’s genetics — the
peninsula was part of Italy from
1920 to 1947, something that’s
reflected in many towns having
dual names (Pula is also known
as ‘Pola’). But the city’s Italianate
connections go back even further.
The spectacular Roman arena,
which dates to the first century,
is one of the best examples of
an amphitheatre outside Rome
and retains much of the visual
power it must have had when its
23,000 seats were packed for
gladiatorial fight. It still stages big
THE VENETIAN FORTRESS
There are more Italian footprints
all across Pula. The Kaštel fortress
is the centrepiece of the city
and was built by the Venetians
between 1630 and 1633. It’s a
distinctive shape, with a square
stronghold sharpened by spear-
tip towers at each corner, and a
stroll around the fortifications is
a must. But if it’s more glimpses
of the city’s Roman past you’re
looking for, then head to the
Trg Forum square, where, on
the western edge, stand the six
symmetrical Corinthian columns
of the Temple of Augustus,
CONTEMPORARY PULA
For all the richness of the city’s
heritage, 21st-century Pula is easy
to discover. Case in point is the
Museum of Contemporary Art of
Istria, with its rotating exhibitions
of Croatian photography, film and
sculpture. One block over, the
Museum of Olive Oil burrows into
the rituals of the region’s most
eulogised agricultural product
with tastings of the amber nectar
also on offer. Round off a visit
with a hearty lunch at Meating,
on the harbourside strip of Riva
Ulica — a welcoming restaurant
that, as its name suggests, leans
MORE INFO
Brijuni Islands. np-brijuni.hr
Konoba Zijavica.
konoba-zijavica.com
La Puntulina. puntulina.eu
Molo. facebook.com/
moloopatija
Restaurant Marconi.
facebook.com/markoooa
Učka Nature Park. pp-ucka.hr
istra.hr
croatia.hr
HOW TO DO IT
Various airlines fly direct to
Pula from airports across the
UK, mostly during the
summer holiday season. Pula
Airport hosts the usual range
of hire car companies.
IMAGE: GETTY

events today, including summer which is the same age as the heavily on steaks served in a
screenings at the long-running amphitheatre. Also a short walk sleek, modern sitting. ABOVE: Pula Arena, a Roman
Pula Film Festival. ami-pula.hr away is the grand Arch of the msu-istre.hr oleumhistriae.com. amphitheatre that still hosts
pulafilmfestival.hr Sergii. pulainfo.hr/where/kastel T: 00 385 98 182 3607. events today

50 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 MERINO MOISTURE THERMO ANTI-
WOOL WICKING REGULATING MICROBIAL

MODELS - LEFT: HIKER , RIGHT: TREELINE

C D A LT D – T H E M O U N TA I N W O R K S

TELEPHONE: 01665 510660

EMAIL: SALES@CDALIMITED.CO.UK฀
CDALIMITED.COM/DARN-TOUGH
 E AT

ALGARVE
There’s a culinary revival underway in the eastern corner of this Portuguese
region, as locals return to their roots to celebrate a rich bounty of produce,
from land, salt marsh and sea. Words: Audrey Gillan

A
fiery hue from the setting sun is
bouncing off the water as Jorge
Raiado takes a long hoe across the
surface, looking for prized flor de sal crystals.
He works with time, tide, moon and sun,
playing a patient game in gathering his salt,
now recognised as one of the best culinary
products in Portugal.
“I work against the sun so I can see the
shapes,” he says, pushing his long-poled
no salt. “The sweetest part of the water
evaporates and the heaviest part of the
water sinks,” explains Jorge. “The water
changes chemically and physically and
‘blossom’ forms on the surface. I’m looking
for the purest of them. And the best sounds;
different salts have different sounds.”
In the old barn that acts as both a tasting
house and shop, Jorge cuts slices of big,
fat Algarvian rosa tomatoes and sprinkles
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; THEO GOULD; ALAMY

‘harvester’ across the shallows of the tidal
salt pan, “and scoop up the flecks on the top.”
At, Salmarim, a project headed up by
Jorge, we wander barefoot amid the pans,
located at the very reaches of the eastern
Algarve, just before the Guadiana river marks
the border with Spain. He tells me that the
pans fill with water after a full moon and a
new moon, when the tides are highest.
He also works with the weather, to harness
the perfect conditions for the evaporation
needed to make salt. If it’s cloudy, there’s
them with regular salt, then with flor de sal,
so I can taste the difference. “Feel for the
crunch,” he instructs. “Then find the soft
melt that awakens the flavour of the tomato.
Feel how your tongue is, then marvel at the
aromas enlivened by the salt.”
CLOCKWISE FROM
Jorge, an art historian, became entranced
ABOVE: Faro Beach, Ilha
by the possibility of creating a gourmet salt
de Faro; clams (amêijoas)
when he returned with his wife Sandra to à Bulhão Pato at Chá Chá
her family’s salt pans, which had produced Chá, Olhão; signpost
industrial salt for the curing of fish in the at Praia de São Rafael;
heyday of the region’s canning industry. Albufeira old town

52 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
May 2021 53

Chef Adérito de Almeida at
work at his restaurant, À Terra
RIGHT: A platter of olives,
bread and cheese, À Terra
Now, the family’s salt is used in many of the
best restaurants in the country.
Like Jorge, Eglantina ‘Tina’ Monteiro
trained in another discipline — art
anthropology — but she too has returned
to her husband’s family’s land to build
Companhia das Culturas, a hotel and
restaurant with nature and agriculture at its
core. “Everything we do here revolves around
the surroundings. We call this land the ‘dry
ocean’: it was first cultivated by the Arabs
and has been developed to allow olives, figs,
carob, almonds, cork and pine to grow with
very little water. It’s why the Algarve is so
green despite being such an arid place.”
Breakfast at Companhia das Culturas
is beautiful: there’s a plate of figs, guava
and pitanga (also known as Suriname or
Brazilian cherry); another of sweet potato
and muxama (dried tuna belly); some sheep’s
and goat’s cheese, together with lemon and
fig jam, carrot cake, guava juice and yoghurt.
IMAGES: VILA MONTE FARM HOUSE PR; RICCIE
Everything sings of the landscape: the serra
(mountains), the barrocal (the land between
the sea and the mountains) and the ocean.
Tina drives me up into the serra to meet
Ruí Geronimo, a former banker who’s also
changed careers and now makes presunto — a
sweet, dry-cured ham from acorn-fed black
pigs — as well as chouriço sausage and other
pork delicacies. We enter his drying cavern
at Feito no Zambujal, where legs of ham
hang from the rafters. In a kitchen/dining
room, he carves sweet, fatty slices from a
leg, then serves a lunch of slow-roasted pork,
vegetables from his garden and a carob cake
made by his mum. “Pork has traditionally
been a very important source of protein
for a large family,” he says. “The only way
to preserve it is with Atlantic salt, so in the
winter, people salt various parts of the pig,
including the legs, to make presunto. Funnily
enough, the end product isn’t at all salty.”
Pork may be a prized possession, but the
Algarvian diet is largely Mediterranean in
style, with Atlantic fish and shellfish at its
heart. The labyrinthine old town of Olhão
still has a fishing fleet — it’s the Algarve’s
largest fishing port — and its market is one
of the best in the country. Two red-brick
buildings, topped with verdigris domes,
house one market for fruit, vegetables and
meat, and another for fish. On Saturdays, the
place buzzes as farming families set up stalls
along the waterfront, selling citrus fruits,
pomegranates, almonds, tomatoes, figs,
piri piri peppers and the other glories of
the Algarve’s fields.
Here, at 7am, I meet the British journalist-
turned-restaurateur Kevin Gould. After
falling in love with Olhão, he decided to
settle here and opened a restaurant, Chá Chá
Chá, as well as a gluten-free bakery, Santa
Maria Madalena, with his friend, the baker
Deborah Goodman. Kevin moves so quickly
through the market, I struggle to keep up.
He’s joking in Portuguese, buying fresh
flowers for his tables and all the free-range
EAT
A TASTE OF THE
Eastern Algarve
ESTAMINÉ
Simplicity is the very essence of
the Vargas family’s restaurant,
built on stilts overlooking the
dunes on the island of Deserta.
Seafood is cooked with very
little fuss: oysters from nearby
Praia de Faro are served with
a sharp verjus of green grapes,
and a house speciality is the
‘beach prawns’ coated in spicy
breadcrumbs. Three-course
lunch without wine from £26.50
per person. ilhadeserta.com/
estamine-restaurant
À TERRA
Produce from the gardens of
the Vila Monte Farm House
hotel comes together with local
seafood in the kitchen of chef
Adérito de Almeida. Fresh fish
and lamb are roasted in the oven,
oysters are served gratinated or
unadulterated and small sardines
are baked with mace and alioli. A
cataplana (a stew made in a pot
of the same name) showcases
seafood, sweet potatoes, peppers
and coriander. Three-course
dinner without wine from £40 per
person. vilamonte.com/a-terra
NOÉLIA E JERÓNIMO
The seafood rice dishes at chef
Noélia Jerónimo’s restaurant in
the seaside resort of Cabanas
de Tavira are some of the best
you’ll taste in Portugal: try the
arroz de limão com corvina e
amêijoas, in which juices from
corvina fish meld with those of
the clams, enhanced with just a
touch of lemon. Three-course
dinner without wine from £31
per person. facebook.com/
noeliaejeronimorestaurante
May 2021 55
EAT
Five food finds
AMÊIJOAS
These clams are dug fresh from
the Ria Formosa and usually end
up in the classic Portuguese dish,
amêijoas à Bulhão Pato.
FOLAR DE OLHÃO
Much like an oversized cinnamon
roll, this cake is sticky with
caramelised sugar and laden with
fennel seeds and cinnamon.
FLOR DE SAL
A shimmering product of the
sea, these prized salt crystals
are skimmed from the surface of
saltwater pans.
ALMONDS
Some of the best almonds in the
world grow in the Algarve. They
can be found in markets, but also
appear in every possible kind of
cake and pastry.
FIGS
Introduced to the Algarve by
the Moors, figs grow wild in the
region. They’re exceptionally
sweet in season, which is usually
around late summer.
56 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
eggs he can find. But it’s in the fish hall
where his passion really comes alive.
“Monkfish, gilthead bream, super-sweet
clams, weird sea snails, wiggly razor clams
— it’s all amazing and the prices are great
too,” he says. I spot one of my favourite
things in the world, gambas da costa
(prawns from the Algarve coast), which I
later boil briefly in salty water and serve
with a sprinkling of Jorge’s flor de sal. Kevin
returns to his restaurant, just one minute
from the market, to work with his all-female
team of cooks on the menu, which changes
daily depending on what he’s brought back
that morning. “I can’t imagine anything
more wonderful than being able to buy all
this on my doorstep, then cooking it and
sharing it with our customers,” he says.
After stocking up on fresh fruit and
vegetables at the market, I head to the little
ferry terminal to catch a boat to the Ilha de
Armona, one of five barrier islands in the
Ria Formosa that protect the mainland from
the full force of the Atlantic. We pass salt
marshes and sandbanks where stooped men
are raking for amêijoas (sweet clams); it’s
clearly hard, back-breaking work gathering
the bounty of the seafood-rich estuary,
digging up the bivalves that are used for
amêijoas à Bulhão Pato: a dish of clams
cooked in garlic, olive oil and coriander
that’s treasured in Portugal.
The ferry arrives at a little pier, which has
a group of restaurants clustered around it.
The air is filled with the scent of cumin at
Classic cataplana stew, cooked
in a pot of the same name
LEFT: Flor de sal, a prized
product of the region
Armona 4, where chef Zé Pardo is cooking
pork and clams. The meat is frying in lard,
with garlic and a few bay leaves, and he’ll
serve it all with his fabulous, hand-cut, big,
fat, yellow chips. Upstairs on the rooftop
dining area, views reach back to Olhão and
out across the water to the neighbouring,
equally beautiful, island of Culatra.
Ilha de Armona is traffic-free, with no
cash points and just three shops selling
essentials and alcohol — but it’s blessed
with some truly spectacular beaches.
There are five restaurants open during the
summer, including the stunningly located
Lanacosta, which sits at the edge of golden
sand dunes.
But today, at least, I answer the siren calls
of gambas da costa and chargrilled sardines
and head back to my villa to light the
barbecue and cook with some of the flor de
sal Jorge has given me. I shuck local oysters
and steam butterfly-shaped conquilhas (bean
clams), picked straight from the nearby
beach at low tide, with garlic, coriander and
olive oil. Utterly fresh, beautifully salty and
sweet, it’s one of those meals that lingers
long in the memory once it’s gone.
HOW TO DO IT Jet2 flies from Stansted to Faro from
£110 return. jet2.com
Companhia das Culturas has doubles from £80 a night.
IMAGES: ALAMY
companhiadasculturas.com
Vila Monte Farm House has doubles from £179 a night.
vilamonte.com
MORE INFO visitalgarve.pt
 DREAMING ABOUT TRAVELLING?
IT’S TIME FOR THE ALGARVE
YOUR SUNNY ESCAPE

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PROMOCODE APUK21 ON OUR WEBSITE WITH THE FOLLOWING QR CODE VALID UNTIL END OF JUNE 2021
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 SLEEP

NASHVILLE
You’ll still find country music and honky-tonks in the Tennessee capital, but
a newfound indie spirit and growing crop of new boutique hotels mean
Music City is singing a new tune. Words: Travis Levius

It’s tough to keep up with Nashville. Country music stars, Deep South cuisine
and boot-stompin’ honky-tonks defined the Tennessee capital for decades, but
IMAGES: GETTY; DIGITALLOVE; STEVEFREIHON.COM

these days the metropolis is flaunting its more liberal, hip side. And to cater to
the ever-growing influx of visitors, and locals after smart staycations, Nashville
has seen an explosion of boutique hotels in the past few years. You’ll find the
largest concentration in Downtown, along with the city’s greatest hits, including
the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum and the recently opened National
Museum of African American Music, which shines an overdue spotlight on
black music’s legacy and contribution to Nashville’s sound. For a more local
flavour, as well as affordable hotel rates, head to East Nashville for boutique
cafes and independent shops, and you’ll no doubt also find a bartending singer-
songwriter looking for their big break in Music City.

58 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Best for country kitsch
GRADUATE NASHVILLE
This is every Dolly Parton fan’s dream — all
floral prints, bright colours and flamboyant
nods to Tennessean music and culture.
Above each of the canopied beds in the
205 rooms is a portrait of a female country
musician; choose a room with Parton
and nod off with the music icon watching
over you. Everyone wants to visit White
Limozeen (named after Dolly’s 1989 album),
the pretty-in-pink rooftop bar that’s like a
Barbie playhouse for grown-ups. Beyond the
pool backdrop and frilly fuchsia umbrellas
is a seafood-driven dining menu. Be sure to
start your meal with a Champagne jelly shot
and top it off with a Millionaire’s Twinkie,
composed of chocolate, shortbread crumble
and gold leaf.
ROOMS: From $189 (£136). graduatehotels.com

May 2021 59
SLEEP

Best for do-gooders

THE RUSSELL
Housed in a century-old former
Presbyterian church, this eclectic hotel
still pops with original charm, including
the enormous stained-glass windows that
enhance the already colourful, airy lobby.
Guests can choose between 23 individually
decorated and configured rooms, including
1970s-style penthouses with balconies
overlooking the atrium. Check-in is
contactless, with numeric door codes for
building and room entry sent via email
after booking. The hotel’s slogan, ‘Stay here,
change lives’, isn’t mere hyperbole: a portion
of proceeds from overnight stays goes
towards local homeless ministries.
ROOM: From $149 (£107). russellnashville.com

Best for party animals

DREAM NASHVILLE
Nashville loves a good party, and a stay at
this stylish hotel on buzzing Printer’s Alley
means you won’t have to venture far to find
it. Known for its see-and-be-seen hotels in
New York and Hollywood, the Dream team
restored a pair of late 19th-century buildings
in Downtown (including the former The
Climax Saloon, an aptly named bar and
brothel) and merged them into a 168-room
hotel with six nightlife and dining options.
Like the lobby, the rooms are decorated in
rich blues and burnt oranges with an art
deco flourish. Enjoy a cocktail underneath
the glass atrium at Stateside Kitchen, and
hunt down the speakeasy club where VIPs
and celebrities let their hair down (hint: it’s
behind the doors of a small boutique shop).
ROOMS: From $185 (£133) dreamhotels.com

Best for disco divas

THE DIVE MOTEL
Is this the world’s coolest motel? It’s
certainly the most thematic. Tucked away on
a not-so-happening swathe of East Nashville
the pool club, bar and motel doesn’t keep
its obsession with the 1970s under wraps.
The main anchor is the members-only
community pool, featuring a vintage ‘No
Diving’ sign, where DJs spin throwback
tunes to a sociable crowd of guests and fun,
young locals. No two rooms are alike here,
from the pool-facing suites to the wood-lined
cabins and detached penthouse suites, but
all have a glittering disco ball activated by a
IMAGES: BEN FITCHETT

Party Switch — flip it on and explore the four

Dive Radio music channels: Sex, Drugs, Rock
& Roll and Sleep. There are no televisions
in the rooms, but you’ll be having too much
nostalgia-fuelled fun to notice.
ROOMS: From $179 (£128). thedivemotel.com

60 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SLEEP

THIS PAGE: The retro-style

decor at the Dive Motel,
which has a members-only
community pool
OPPOSITE, FROM TOP:
Stained glass detail at
The Russell; lobby at
Dream Nashville

May 2021 61
SLEEP

Best for bons vivants

THE JOSEPH
Nashville needed a hotel like this: an old-
school five-star to help diversify the hip new
hotel landscape. Opened in 2020, the 297-room
establishment is in SoBro, near the Music City
Center and Country Music Hall of Fame and
Museum. High-end modern art defines the
hotel — unsurprising, as it’s run by the family
behind Ohio’s Pizzuti Collection of Columbus
Museum of Art. They’ve lent over 1,000 pieces
to the hotel for display in public areas and
guest rooms. Both the lobby-level Italian
restaurant, Yolan, and the rooftop pool lounge,
Denim, are overseen by a chef who’s helmed a
Michelin-starred restaurant, so you’re sure of a
first-class experience. Don’t check-out without
a visit to Rose, the city’s best new spa.
ROOMS: From $366 (£262)
thejosephnashville.com

Best for retro chic
FAIRLANE HOTEL
Mad Men fans will drool over this mid-century-
inspired Downtown pad, a great jumping-off point for
Broadway and the riverfront. The modernist building
has 81 retro-glam rooms with velvety beds and marble
peekaboo showers. The scene-stealer is its lobby with
terrazzo flooring, wood panelling and vintage-style
sofas. Restaurant Ellington’s keeps things jazzy with
brown leather dining booths; its pork chop with braised
cabbage and bourbon-braised peaches is to die for.
ROOMS: From $180 (£129). fairlanehotel.com
Best for history-lovers
UNION STATION HOTEL
This former railway station is now a glamorous hotel
with an enviable lobby: a 20-metre-high, barrel-vaulted
atrium, with chandeliers, sculptures and a stained-
glass ceiling. The exterior is a historic beauty, too,
and there are tours should guests want to learn more.
The sleeping quarters are a different story: the 175
decidedly contemporary-looking rooms sport cowhide
headboards and contemporary works by local artists.
ROOMS: From $221 (£158).
unionstationhotelnashville.com
Best for opulence
THE HERMITAGE HOTEL
Everyone from presidents to princes has stayed at
this legendary, 122-room Downtown five-star since its
inception in 1910, and its ornate beaux-arts aesthetic
still dazzles today’s jet set. The basement level
houses the gentlemen’s club-style Oak Bar and a top
steakhouse restaurant. All 122 classically appointed
rooms have separate showers and soaking tubs, Frette
linens and in-mirror televisions. North-facing rooms
overlook the Tennessee State Capitol.
ROOMS: From $288 (£206). thehermitagehotel.com

62 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SLEEP

Best for libation-lovers

VANDYKE BED
+ BEVERAGE
The ‘pub with rooms’ concept has yet to
arrive in the US, but this boozy, over-21s-only
boutique in East Nashville’s hip and walkable
Five Points comes pretty close. Each of the
eight themed rooms has a drink-themed
name: turquoise-accented ‘Rum’ resembles a
tropical getaway; ‘Beer’, meanwhile, contains
vintage lockers and a leather punching bag.
Fronting the hotel is an artificial grass-
covered courtyard, while the second floor is
home to a plush rooftop deck for cocktails.
Bar service commences in the afternoon, and
in the evening, Setsun, a wine bar residency,
serves up stellar vino selections and assorted
international dishes.
ROOMS: From $299 (£214).
vandykenashville.com
IMAGES: ©JIM KRUGER/KRUGER-IMAGES ’20 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; JESSICA AMERSON

Best for local luxury

NOELLE
Art deco meets slick modern at Noelle, a
Downtown boutique hotel housed in a 1930s
landmark on Printer’s Alley. The 224-room
property showcases local creative talent, from
the ground-floor area lined with art to the
fabulous restoration of the 13-storey building
itself. Rooms and suites feature woodcut
portraits of hometown heroes, as well as brass
details and ceilings etched with geometric
patterns. The Trade Room, a cavernous bar
with pink marble walls, high arches and gilded
balconies, is one of the prettiest places in town
for a tipple; the Cumberland River-facing Rare
Bird rooftop lounge is a must-visit, too. When
you’re ready to explore, grab a copy of The Line,
the biannual hotel newspaper, for the latest on Sleek interiors at Noelle
where to go in the city. FROM TOP: Vandyke Bed +
ROOMS: From $242 (£174). Beverage; bar at Noelle
noelle-nashville.com

May 2021 63
 WEEKEND
52
ESCAPES
Long weekends away punch well above their weight. In terms of
memories-per-minute, they offer great value, and with the right inspiration,
you can pack an unforgettable adventure into just a handful of precious
days. This year, interest in flight-free trips is rising as many travellers
recalibrate their approach to travel after an imposed hiatus. But turning to
rails, roads and waterways for transport doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a
short getaway, nor does forgoing flights mean your options are limited to
IMAGES: GETTY; AWL IMAGES

the UK: with a little patience and planning, it’s perfectly possible to venture
further afield. From Suffolk to Stockholm, here are 52 of the best getaways

WORDS EMMA GREGG

64 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
May 2021 65
52 WEEKEND ESCAPES

Puffins on Skomer Island,

Pembrokeshire Coast
National Park, Wales

66 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 52 WEEKEND ESCAPES

1 WA LE S
COMMUNING WITH PUFFINS ON
S KO M E R I S L A N D

For anyone who assumes you need to travel overseas to enjoy a

full-on wildlife experience, the Pembrokeshire island and bird
reserve of Skomer is a revelation
The James Bonds of the British bird world, puffins are
charismatic, mysterious and devastatingly handsome
in black and white tuxedos. They almost feel like exotic
friends, adored from afar but rarely seen. For much of
the year, they’re out at sea, on their top-secret puffin
missions (in reality, hunting fish on the open water).
When they crowd onto islands to breed, however, it’s
easy enough to encounter them if you get the timing
right. On the beautiful Pembrokeshire island of Skomer,
a bird reserve since 1959, the puffins begin arriving in
early April. At first, they come and go, gathering the
confidence to settle in earnest. Then, come August, once
the breeding season is over, the last few depart.
During the busy summer months in between, day-
tripping visitors scud across from the mainland in open-
decked boats to see them. The trip takes just 10 minutes
and there’s a good chance you’ll spot your first puffins
before you arrive. Once you’ve found a colony, you’ll want
to settle down to take it all in. Puffins nest in abandoned
rabbit burrows on clifftops. In midsummer, there are
always birds pottering about. Others swoop in from afar,
their beaks crammed with sandeels.
If you book an overnight stay at the island field station
of the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales, you can
commune with puffins from dawn to dusk — long after
the day-trippers depart.

HOW TO DO IT: The meeting point for trips to Skomer is Lockley

Lodge, Martin’s Haven, Pembrokeshire. Day trips can’t be reserved in
advance and often fill up. For overnight stays, it’s best to book
several months ahead. welshwildlife.org
TOP TIP: Membership of the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales
helps support vital conservation work and brings multiple benefits,
including the waiving of your landing fees on certain visits to Skomer.

2 ENGLAND
Releasing your inner artist on a Devon
painting retreat
“Creativity takes courage” insist the tutors at Brambles,
north of Plymouth, quoting French painter Henri Matisse.
If you haven’t dabbed at an easel since your primary school
days, it can be daunting to pick up a brush — but, with
gentle encouragement amid inspiring surroundings, who
knows what you’ll achieve. bramblesartretreat.com

3 IRELAND
Nipping across to Dublin for the perfect pint
of Guinness
Guinness is brewed all over the world, but St James’s Gate
IMAGE: GETTY

Brewery is its true home. With the Dublin Swift ferry from
Holyhead taking a little over two hours, you can be there
in a trice. After touring the brewery, enjoy views of the city
with your perfectly poured pint. guinness-storehouse.com

May 2021 67
52 WEEKEND ESCAPES
4 FR A N C E
LE ARN ABOUT WILD FOOD WHILE
FOR AGING IN THE ALP S
Some of the best food experiences engage all
the senses, tracing the story of each ingredient
right back to the moment it was picked. An
alpine foraging adventure takes this notion
to fabulous extremes: you’ll be sniffing the
earth that wild mushrooms, leaves and berries
grow in, feeling their natural textures and
admiring their colours before tasting their
flavours. There will be discoveries along the
way — argousier (sea buckthorn) juice, génépi
(wormwood) liqueur, fleur de mélèze (larch
flower) jam and salads made from dandelions
and wild spinach, for example.
Begin your trip with a relaxing train ride
to the south of France, then venture into
the southern Alps with a botanical expert.
Once you’ve filled your baskets, it’s back to
base for cooking workshops with local chefs.
undiscoveredmountains.com
68 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
5 B E LG I U M
FOLLOWING B RUS SEL S ’ COMIC BOOK
AND STREET ART ROUTES
Astérix and Obélix, Tintin and the Smurfs:
they’re all honoured with colourful murals
in Brussels, the self-declared world capital
of comic book art. More than 50 buildings
in the city centre are decorated with visual
one-liners, adding quirky humour to the urban
environment. The Parcours BD (Comic Book
Route) has been growing steadily since the
1990s, with new works appearing from time to
time. Digital maps make them easy to find.
On your wanderings, keep an eye open
for street art. The city’s most famous names
include Bonom, who paints bizarre prehistoric
creatures, typographic artist Denis Meyers
and the iconoclastic Defo 84. Like the
Parcours BD, the Parcours Street Art has an
official map, with an image of a spray can
marking each spot. parcoursstreetart.brussels
bruxelles.be/parcours-bd
6 DENMARK
K AYA K I N G F O R A C L E A N E R P L A N E T
IN COPENHAGEN
Travelling all the way to Copenhagen for a
long weekend is a pretty serious undertaking
if you’ve decided not to fly. But if you’ll be
joining a Green Kayak trip, flight-free is the
logical way to arrive.
This upbeat environmental organisation
arranges group paddles on urban waterways.
Open to anyone, their trips are free to join, on
the one condition that you pick up any rubbish
you encounter and publicise the initiative on
social media.
Kayaking Copenhagen’s historic canals is
good exercise under any circumstances, and
joining a cheerful example of activism-in-
action adds an extra gloss to the experience.
And if you catch the bug, there are partner
projects in various countries, including
Germany, Ireland, Sweden and Norway, too.
greenkayak.org

7 FR ANCE
Finding hidden
coves in Finistère
With distinctive
traditions and beautiful,
tucked-away beaches,
Brittany has a far-flung
feel, even though it’s
just across the Channel.
You could take the
ferry from Plymouth
or Portsmouth to
Roscoff or Saint-Malo,
or cross to Calais and
continue by car or train.
britannytourism.com
FROM LEFT: Hot air balloons flying over
IMAGES: GETTY; AWL IMAGES
Champagne vineyards at sunset, Montagne
de Reims, France; murals depicting comic
book characters Kinky & Cosy by Nix,
part of the famous Comic Book Route,
Brussels, Belgium; a Vespa scooter parked
in Via Montenapoleone, a street of fashion
boutiques, Milan; Tresco Abbey Garden,
Isles Of Scilly
8 ENGLAND
Horse-riding on the beach in Suf folk
What could be more invigorating than a gallop
across East Anglia’s gleaming sands at low
tide? Evenings are spent in a Victorian B&B.
equestrian-escapes.com
9 FR ANCE
Sipping your way around the
Champagne region
The wine estates of Reims and Épernay are
just 185 miles southeast of Calais. On a tailor-
made Champagne break, your hosts will take
care of everything, including tastings, meals
and rooms in a chateau. grapeescapes.net
10 SCOTL AND
Sampling the Edinburgh Fringe
From big-name comedians to little-known
poets, there’s endless variety at the legendary
annual arts and culture festival, tentatively
slated for 6-30 August 2021. edfringe.com
11 ENGL AND
Seafood and sandcastles in Scilly
With more than 1,750 hours of sunshine each
year, a weekend in the balmy Isles of Scilly is
a great way to boost your vitamin D levels.
Take the sleeper train from Paddington to
Penzance, then the Scillonian ferry to St Mary’s
and you’re there. islesofscilly-travel.co.uk
52 WEEKEND ESCAPES
1 2 I TA LY
Fashion and frescoes in Milan
Blessed with splendid ecclesiastical art such
as the frescoes in the Chiesa di San Maurizio al
Monastero Maggiore, there’s far more to Milan
than swish boutiques. But for shoppers, they’ll
guarantee a weekend of bliss. yesmilano.it
13 IREL AND
Touring the lanes of Wicklow in a
gypsy caravan
Rent a traditional caravan, complete with
horse, in rural County Wicklow. After a full
briefing, off you’ll clop for a blissfully relaxing
break. clissmanhorsecaravans.com
1 4 WA L E S
Gliding along in an electric narrowboat
River boating is utterly serene and the
Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal, over-
arched with bridges and trees, is the perfect
place to try it. castlenarrowboats.co.uk
15 THE NETHERLANDS
Discovering renaissance art in
Den Bosch
Travelling by Eurostar to the Low Countries
is an excellent move. Skip busy Amsterdam
and Bruges and make a detour to Den Bosch
instead, a lovely cathedral city where artist
Hieronymus Bosch was born. holland.com
May 2021 69
RECHARGE • RECONNECT • REJUVENATE

16 G E R M A N Y
Getting away from it
17 I R E L A N D
all on the island of Sylt E XPLORING THE COPPER COA S T
ON WHEEL S
Sylt (pronounced
‘zoolt’) has immaculate Impressive geology, Atlantic coves and newly
white sands. Its fresh unearthed Celtic relics abound on this storied
North Sea breezes are stretch of Ireland’s southern coast
Road tripping in Ireland is a pleasure, but
considered a tonic, flying in from Great Britain and sorting out a
but when it’s time hire car isn’t everyone’s idea of fun. Why not
to seek shelter, you travel by ferry, and take your own wheels?
If you’re blessed with sturdy sea legs, the
can bag a hooded crossings are a breeze. There’s a fast crossing
windbreak chair called from Holyhead to Dublin and lengthier
a strandkorb (‘beach routes, taking three to four hours, from
Pembroke and Fishguard to Rosslare.
basket’). germany.travel Disembark at Rosslare, and Ireland’s
beautiful south beckons. Tempting though it
may be to plan a mighty drive all the way
to the honeypots of Cork and Kerry,
concentrate instead on County Waterford’s
ruggedly beautiful Copper Coast, a stress-
free 55 miles south east from Rosslare. It
stretches for 25 miles from the cheerful
seaside resort of Tramore to Dungarvan’s
pleasant harbour.
Named after the copper mines that
flourished here in the 19th century, the
IMAGE: GETTY
ABOVE: The Durrow Viaduct is part of the
Copper Coast is now satisfyingly rural. At its
Waterford Greenway, a 29-mile off-road heart, between Kilfarrasy and Stradbally, is
cycling and walking trail along a former one of the world’s smallest UNESCO Global
railway line in Ireland’s County Waterford Geoparks. Essentially an open-air geological
52 WEEKEND ESCAPES
museum, its time-worn rocks bear witness
to undersea eruptions, ancient deserts and
ice ages. On a half-day or full-day guided
tour, you can delve into its unique geology,
archaeology and biodiversity, peering at
cliffs to estimate their age and unfolding
handfuls of seaweed to discover the marine
life within.
If the weather’s kind, you could take a dip:
Waterford’s five Blue Flag beaches include
Clonea Strand and Bunmahon, and there
are plenty of hidden coves. And if you’re
in Bunmahon for the summer solstice, be
sure to seek out the Ogham Stones near the
old church. Buried underground for many
centuries, they were rediscovered 30 years
ago; perfectly aligned with the sunset, their
Old Irish inscriptions still legible.
For a change of pace, switch to two
wheels, hiring a bike and setting off along
the Waterford Greenway, a 29-mile off-road
cycling and walking trail that was once the
Waterford-to-Dungarvan railway line. Eleven
bridges, three viaducts, Norman castles and
a Viking settlement await.
HOW TO DO IT: Waterford, Tramore and Dungarvan have
a range of accommodation. Tours of the Copper Coast
Geopark can be booked at coppercoastgeopark.com
If driving an electric car, use the Zap-Map app to locate
charging points. zap-map.com
DON’T MISS: The Copper Coast Geopark Visitor Centre,
set in a converted church in Bunmahon, has regional
history displays, a craft shop and a cafe with wi-fi.
May 2021 71
52 WEEKEND ESCAPES

18 ENGLAND 22 FR ANCE 26 E N G L A N D
A wild weekend in alternative Brighton Birdwatching in the Dordogne
Brighton is a city where difference is celebrated. High-speed trains can zip you from London Biking, boating and
Enjoy top vegan fare, avant-garde art in May to the woodlands and wetlands of southwest ballooning in Bristol
and June, as part of the Artists Open Houses France in under six hours. Visit in early spring, Ride the Avon
festival, and sip cocktails with drag queens in and you’ll see birds galore, including firecrests,
bars where anything goes. visitbrighton.com kingfishers and owls. wildlifeworldwide.com
Cycleway, try dinghy-
sailing in the Floating
1 9 WA L E S 23 NORTHERN IRELAND Harbour, go for a ferry
Learning to surf in Caswell Bay Walking the Ulster Way to Glenarm
The Gower Peninsula is the heartland of Welsh The ferry from Liverpool to Belfast takes
trip under the Clifton
surfing. Conditions can be challenging enough visitors close to a scenic stretch of this Suspension Bridge or
to test an expert, but there are beginner- long-distance walking trail, leading north to explore The Matthew, a
friendly breaks, too. Gower’s friendly tutors Glenarm. If it’s just the two of you, you can
will show you the ropes. gowersurfing.com rent a miniature castle, The Barbican, for the
replica of a Tudor ship.
night. walkni.com irishlandmark.com You can even float over
2 0 S PA I N the city in a hot air
Tapas and Cava in Barcelona 24 E NGL AND
At Barcelona’s xampanyerias (Cava bars) Exploring Cumbria’s Hidden Coast
balloon. bristolpacket.
expect ceilings hung with cured meat and The new 40-mile Hidden Coast trail connects co.uk matthew.co.uk
counters stocked with nibbles such as Millom and Whitehaven via the Duddon cameronballoons.co.uk
cheese, ham and morcilla sausage. Estuary, Silecroft and Ravenglass. Along the
barcelonaturisme.com way is arts trail, Deep Time. visitcumbria.com

2 1 I TA LY 2 5 WA L E S
Driving in the Alps on the Stelvio Pass Coastal walks and Celtic heritage on
FROM LEFT: Savoury bites and Cava are
The Stelvio Pass, linking Lombardy to South the Llŷn Peninsula
IMAGES: GETTY

on the menu in Barcelona’s xampanyerias

Tyrol, is a thrilling place to prove your You’ll be following in the footsteps of pilgrims (Cava bars); a section of the Harz Narrow-
prowess behind the wheel: at 9,045ft above as you head towards Bardsey, the isle of Gauge Railway heading up the Brocken,
sea level, it’s the highest paved mountain road 20,000 saints, at the peninsula’s tip. Germany’s highest peak; a gondola makes
in the world. in-lombardia.it suedtirol.info visitwales.com its way down the Grand Canal in Venice

72 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

Classic railway journeys
2 7 S C OT L A N D
TA K I N G T H E W E S T H I G H L A N D L I N E
INTO THE HIG HL ANDS
Passing mountains and moors, the Glasgow-
Mallaig stretch of this railway is among the
most scenic rail journeys in the world. To
enjoy its splendour in style, you can board
the Caledonian Sleeper from London Euston
to Fort William, then take an onward local
service towards Mallaig. Alternatively, book
a cabin in the ‘palace on wheels’ that is the
Belmond Royal Scotsman, or hop aboard The
Jacobite, a pre-war steam train that chuffs
its way from Fort William to Mallaig each day
during summer.
Exciting though it is to be on board, there
will be times when you wish you were on a
hilltop watching the train sweep by. One such
moment comes as your train crosses the
Glenfinnan Viaduct, just like the Hogwarts
Express did in the Harry Potter films.
sleeper.scot belmond.com/royalscotsman
westcoastrailways.co.uk/jacobite
28 GERMANY
RIDING A STE AM TRAIN THROUGH
T H E H A R Z M O U N TA I N S
A trip that combines hurtling along a modern
German autobahn with pootling through
pristine, forested mountains on a steam train?
It’s the closest you’ll ever get to time travel.
Just under 500 miles from Calais — a distance
you could drive in a couple of days, stopping
off in cities like Antwerp and Düsseldorf
— the Brocken Line from Wernigerode
is a steam buff’s dream. Part of the Harz
Narrow-Gauge Railway, it spirals its way up
the Brocken, north Germany’s highest peak,
at 3,747ft. Enthusiasts can learn more about
the historic trainline at the workshop next to
Wernigerode-Westerntor station, and even
take a short course to become an honorary
driver. Special experiences are being offered
throughout 2021, including a moonlight dining
tour, scenic sunset rides and even whisky
tastings, held in the saloon carriage, from €149
(£127) per person. hsb-wr.de
52 WEEKEND ESCAPES
2 9 ITA LY
ARRIVING IN VENICE BY
SLEEPER TRAIN
After rolling into the Venezia Santa Lucia
station in the milky light of morning, you’ll
never want to arrive in Venice any other way.
This sleek, modernist station, designed in the
1930s, is on the Grand Canal, just half an hour
on foot from St Mark’s Square. Outside the
terminal, you’re greeted by vaporetti water-
buses and gondolas. As Mark Smith, the man
behind railway website The Man in Seat 61
puts it, “Savour that moment. It’s arguably the
most impressive arrival experience in Europe.”
Europe’s much-vaunted night train boom
hit the buffers during the Covid-19 pandemic,
but is set to surge once more. Modern sleeper
compartments can be booked on a private
basis, providing a hygienic, eco-friendly and
time-efficient means of city-hopping.
For Venice, make your way to Munich, then
board the excellent Nightjet train for the
overnight leg. nightjet.com
May 2021 73

Trips for cyclists
3 0 S C OT L A N D
C YC L I N G T H E G R E AT
T R O S S A C H S PAT H
Covering much of the western part of the
Southern highlands, Loch Lomond and
the Trossachs National Park is a gorgeous
swathe of hills, glens and woodlands,
centred on Loch Lomond. Head for the
hills on the Caledonian Sleeper from
London, and unload your bike at Dunblane
for the easy, early-morning ride to Callander,
a charming town of Victorian buildings.
From here, the glorious, 30-mile Great
Trossachs Path sweeps west, winding past
IMAGE: GETTY
bluebell woods and waterfalls en route to
the RSPB’s Inversnaid Nature Reserve
right on the bank of Loch Lomond.
scotlandsgreattrails.com
31 FR ANCE
J OINING THE TOUR DE
FRANCE CIRCUS
Just like the competitors’ bikes, the Tour de
France is a well-oiled machine. Before the race
arrives in each town, a cavalcade of vehicles
rolls in to set up barriers, signage and all the
other paraphernalia. This is just the advance
party; the cyclists themselves roll in pursued
by a fleet of motorbikes, media vehicles, VIP
cars and mechanics.
Whether you follow the sport like a hawk or
are there just for the spectacle, you can’t help
but be swept up by the excitement of it all.
Wherever you choose to watch the race, you’ll
find balconies packed with flag-wavers and
bars crammed with enthusiasts, toasting the
latest thrilling stage. letour.fr
52 WEEKEND ESCAPES
A winding road lined
with cypress trees leads
to the Italian hill town of
Asciano in Siena, Tuscany
32 ITA LY
ELECTRIC BIKING IN THE
TUSCAN HILL S
You may be keen to work up an appetite — in
a region as gastronomically blessed as rural
Tuscany, that’s perfectly rational — but that
doesn’t mean you have to work up a sweat.
Jump on an electric bike, and you can explore
remote landscapes that the walkers and day-
tripping Fiat 500s can’t reach, without ending
the day collapsed in a heap.
You could book a fully supported tour, or
go it alone, opting for somewhere elegant in
Florence or Pisa, or delving into Tuscany’s
thriving agriturismo network. Working farms
offer comfortable beds, stunning views and
hearty home cooking, fuelling you up for the
adventures to come. cycling-for-softies.co.uk
May 2021 75
52 WEEKEND ESCAPES

33 THE NETHERLANDS
B I K I N G T H E N O R T H S E A C YC L E R O U T E

Take your bicycle to the Low Countries via the Channel Tunnel or by
ferry, then ride along the EuroVelo 12 — also known as the North Sea
Cycle Route — as it snakes through coastal wildernesses
The Low Countries are so easy to reach by road, rail and sea
that flying there feels like the second-best option. This is
particularly true if you’re organising a cycling trip and fancy
taking your own bicycle rather than hiring one. Full-size
bikes can’t be taken on Eurostar trains, but don’t let that
scupper your plans: they can be taken on the Eurotunnel Le
Shuttle service from Folkestone to Calais, if booked at least
48 hours in advance. Alternatively, you could travel by ferry.
The most useful routes are from Harwich, in Essex, to the
Hook of Holland; from Hull to Europoort, near Rotterdam;
and from Newcastle to IJmuiden, near Amsterdam.
Arriving by ferry, you’ll be perfectly placed for a ride
along EuroVelo 12 (EV12), one of 17 long-distance routes
developed by the European Cyclists’ Federation as part of
a project to connect and unite the continent. As well as the
Netherlands, this 4,400-mile route passes through Norway,
Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Belgium, France and the UK.
There’s plenty to see along the Dutch sections of EV12,
which bypass the cities for areas of sublime coastal
wilderness. If you pedal northeast along the Waddenzee
route, you’ll be surrounded by dunes, tidal flats and
wetlands. Alternatively, head southwest along the Nordzee
route, exploring Oosterschelde National Park, the largest in
the country. The region is one of Europe’s richest habitats
for migratory water birds, so it’s an ideal route for keen
birdwatchers who will find themselves regularly pausing to
peer through their binoculars.

HOW TO DO IT: Eurotunnel, Stena Line, P&O Ferries and DFDS run
Channel crossings. The EV12 is marked with EuroVelo signs. A map is
available at eurovelo.com and there are downloadable GPS tracks at
hollandcyclingroutes.com
Holland Bike Tours offers four-night tours from €770 (£660) per person,
with luggage transfers available on request. hollandbiketours.com
TOP TIP: Check Vrienden op de Fiets (Friends on Bikes), a homestay
network for cyclists and walkers, and Fietsers Welkom! (Cyclists Welcome!)
for bike-friendly stays. vriendenopdefiets.nl allefietserswelkom.nl

34 SCOTL AND
Hiking along the West Highland Way
Walking this superb 96-mile route from Milngavie to Fort
William normally takes around eight days, although it can
be done in five if you set a cracking pace. Alternatively, you
could tackle just a short section of it. Heading from south
to north, with the southwesterlies at your back, is the best
way to enjoy the Highland scenery. westhighlandway.org

35 FR ANCE
Listening to live music at the Festival d’Avignon
Few festival venues are as atmospheric as Avignon’s Palais
des Papes, which hosts monumental performances each
summer. Fringe events featuring hundreds of independent
orchestras, bands and theatre companies run alongside
the main programme. festival-avignon.com

76 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 52 WEEKEND ESCAPES

Culinary adventures

36 IRELAND
Dining on gourmet cuisine in Galway
Make your way to Ireland’s west coast to
explore the colourful city of Galway — a great
place to eat out. Try Michelin-starred Aniar,
where chef Jp McMahon works wonders with
foraged and locally sourced ingredients, such
as sea beet and brill. One of Aniar’s alumni,
Enda McEvoy, now has his own ultra-local
restaurant, Loam, which won the Michelin
Guide Great Britain & Ireland Sustainability
Award 2020. aniarrestaurant.ie loamgalway.com

3 7 S PA I N
Enjoying modern art and pinxtos
in Bilbao
Step off the Portsmouth-to-Bilbao ferry and
you can be at the Frank Gehry-designed
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao within half an
hour. From above, it’s shaped like an orchid;
from the ground, it’s a gigantic tumble of
silvery surf — and since its completion in
the 1990s, it has elevated Bilbao beyond all
recognition. Its restaurant, Nerua, headed
by local chef Josean Alija, is one of the
world’s best.
To sample the earthier flavours of Bilbao,
look no further than a pintxo bar. Like a meal
in a (generous) mouthful, pintxos are small
chunks of bread topped with thirst-inducing
delicacies such as anchovies, bacalao (salt-
cured cod), cured meat, olives and cheese,
pierced with a cocktail stick. Everyone helps
themselves, counting up the sticks at the end
in order to pay. neruaguggenheimbilbao.com

3 8 I TA LY
Sampling Slow Food in Piedmont
Conceived amid the UNESCO-listed vineyards
of northwest Italy, the Slow Food movement
emerged in the 1980s and continues to thrive.
Today, its aficionados are gastro-activists
who campaign for agricultural biodiversity,
support sustainable producers, catalogue
endangered traditional ingredients and
highlight the delicate relationship between
food production and climate change.
For a weekend of indulgence, visit the
Piedmontese towns of Bra and Alba to gorge
on local cheese, beef, white truffles and red
wine — all sustainably produced, beautifully
presented and naturally delicious. Osteria del
Boccondivino, in Bra, and La Piola, in Alba, are
excellent places to start. visitpiemonte.com
IMAGES: GETTY; ANITA MURPHY

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: A cyclist in Oosterend,

north Holland, passes Het Noorden windmill, built in
1878; glazed pork belly with pickled pine needles on
bay leaves, Aniar restaurant, Galway; hikers tackle
Scotland’s West Highland Way, a 96-mile route
running from Milngavie to Fort William

May 2021 77
 THESSALONIKI TOURISM ORGANISATION
www.thessaloniki.travel

Greece

@thessalonikitravel @thessaloniki.travel

39 S W IT Z E R L A N D
WINDING THROUGH THE ALPS ON THE
BERNINA EXPRESS
This panoramic narrow-gauge train traverses the Alps between
Switzerland and Italy on an unforgettable four-hour journey
What makes a great rail journey so memorable? The feeling
that you’re venturing into areas unseen by road vehicles; the
grand views of passing scenery; and, depending on the train,
modern comforts such as free wi-fi and a roving mini-bar.
It’s for all the above reasons that the Bernina Express
is immensely popular. Despite the name, it doesn’t offer
a speedy means of getting from A to B (specifically, from
Chur, in Graubünden, to Tirano, in Lombardy), but it’s
a spectacularly picturesque way to spend a few hours.
With gorgeous views of Alpine scenery at every turn, and
panoramic windows to frame them, the gentle pace is
supremely welcome.
From Chur, the train traces the Rhine before entering the
Domleschg valley, dotted with historic castles. It then heads
south to cross the Landwasser river via the Wiesen Viaduct.
Next comes a series of superbly engineered spiral tunnels
that corkscrew the train high into the Alps.
Perhaps the most splendid views of all are to be found at
Alp Grüm, which overlooks the frozen peak of Piz Palü, in
the Bernina Range, and the Bergamasque Alps. From here,
the train hairpins down to the pretty village of Poschiavo,
on its final descent to the Italian border.
HOW TO DO IT: Tailor Made Rail offers a four-day journey from London
through France and Switzerland via Eurostar, TGV, the Bernina Express
and the Glacier Express. From £899 per person, including hotel
IMAGE: GETTY
accommodation with breakfast. tailormaderail.com
DON’T MISS: On board, treat yourself to a röteli (a Swiss cherry liqueur
infused with alpine herbs) named Pfiff, after the train’s whistle.
It’s a Chur speciality — and the Bernina Express’s signature drink.
52 WEEKEND ESCAPES
The Bernina Express runs
through Graubünden,
east Switzerland
40 CHANNEL ISLANDS
Pedalling around Sark
There’s always a happy atmosphere on the ferries setting
out from Portsmouth and Poole towards Guernsey.
Everyone on board knows what’s in store: pretty
coves, cliff paths, country lanes and cream teas galore.
The journey to Sark requires an extra boat ride and, as the
locals are fond of saying, a step back in time. On this tiny
island, with its horse-drawn carriages and huge, starry
skies, cars are banned. You could explore on foot, but
cycling takes you further, following peaceful tracks lined
with wildflowers. With no vehicles to worry about, it’s also
wonderfully family-friendly. visitguernsey.com
41 WA L E S
Tackling Snowdonia’s 14 Peaks
So you’ve heard of Snowdon — the highest mountain in
Wales, at 3,560ft — but did you know Snowdonia is home to
more than a dozen peaks over 3,000ft? Scaling the lot within
24 hours may sound like madness, but that’s exactly what
participants in the 14 Peaks Challenge set out to do. For a
less daunting adventure, book a five-day 14 Peaks hiking
trip. A mountaineering guide will lead you along rugged
paths and, come evening, you can soothe tired feet in a
comfortable hotel in Betws-y-Coed. adventuretoursuk.com
42 SCOTL AND
Voyaging on a tall ship
There’s nothing like a healthy blast of sea air to blow away
the cobwebs. Throw in a little team building, some yoga
and plenty of wholesome food and you have a formula for a
thoroughly healing few days. That’s the thinking behind this
four-night sailing holiday off Scotland’s breezy west coast,
cruising the Irish Sea on a traditional gaff-rigged boat. Total
beginners are welcome: you’ll learn all about handling your
vessel, which is named, enigmatically, Maybe. Working as
a team, you’ll soon be steering, setting sails, reefing, tying
knots and singing shanties with aplomb. maybe-sailing.com
May 2021 79
52 WEEKEND ESCAPES

10 trips further af ield

4 3 N O R WAY
Exploring Norway’s fjord coast
Journey by ferry and train to Bergen for a dazzling coastal
adventure, enjoying North Sea beaches, colourful fishing
communities and traces of Viking culture. en.visitbergen.com

44 ICELAND
Crossing the North Sea to the wilds of Seyðisfjörður
It takes a couple of days to travel by land and sea to Copenhagen,
the starting point for Smyril Line’s ferries to the Faroe Islands and
Seyðisfjörður, in eastern Iceland. visitseydisfjordur.com

45 SWEDEN
Island-hopping in the Stockholm archipelago
The Swedish capital lies in the midst of a garden of islets.
They’re surrounded by blue water, scented with whispering
pines and dotted with footpaths. visitstockholm.com

4 6 S PA I N
Completing the Camino de Santiago
Whether you’re a pilgrim or are simply drawn to the physical
challenge, walking the Camino de Santiago can be a life-
changing experience. santiago-compostela.net

47 FR ANCE
Dolphin-watching on the ferry to Corsica
The waters around Corsica form the marine-protected
Bergen’s colourful
Pelagos Sanctuary, which harbours thousands of dolphins
harbour, Norway
and whales — so there’s every chance you’ll see some as
ABOVE: Kayakers paddle
past Dubrovnik’s city you motor across. corsica-ferries.co.uk
walls and the rocky
coastline, Croatia 4 8 C R O AT I A
Sea kayaking along the Dalmatian coast
The coast around Dubrovnik is strewn with beautiful islands.
Kayaking offers a great way to tour them, exploring arches,
inlets and caves as you go. visit-croatia.co.uk

4 9 S PA I N
Lynx-watching in the Doñana National Park
See how Spain has been restoring the habitat of the Iberian
lynx, a critically endangered apex predator, as part of a Europe-
wide effort to re-wild crucial landscapes. naturetrek.co.uk

50 ROMANIA
Cycling in Transylvania
The foothills of the Carpathians are charming to explore on two
wheels. Bike via villages, oak woods and orchid meadows while
your luggage is transported for you. theslowcyclist.co.uk

51 MOROCCO
Zooming to Casablanca by train
Launched in 2018, Al Boraq is Africa’s first bullet train. Travel to
Tangier by train and ferry, then continue on — in a flash — to the
fascinating cities of Rabat and Casablanca. visitmorocco.com

5 2 S PA I N
IMAGES: GETTY

Taking a ferry to the Canaries

It takes under 36 hours for the overnight ferry to cruise from
Huelva to Tenerife or Gran Canaria — a relaxing way to reach
these sun-drenched Atlantic islands. hellocanaryislands.com

80 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 PARTNER CONTENT FOR RHAETIAN RAILWAY

ALL ABOARD THE IN NUMBERS

2008
BERNINA EXPRESS The year the Albula Railway
and Bernina Railway
sections of the Rhaetian
Railway were added to the
Rhaetian Railway’s Bernina Express, which snakes through UNESCO World Heritage
extraordinary landscapes in the Swiss Alps, is often hailed Site list. Built in the early
as one of the world’s most unforgettable train journeys years of the 19th century,
they’re both masterpieces
of civil engineering.
After a year of travel restrictions, a change this 75-mile meander is a firm reminder that
of scenery feels more like a necessity than a train travel has the potential to be a stylish 196
novelty. Which is why, as travel possibilities and sustainable way to explore. Bridges on the route,
slowly open up again, Rhaetian Railway’s Of course, it doesn’t hurt to be journeying including the Brusio circular
Bernina Express seems like the perfect on a train as packed with first-rate facilities viaduct, which performs a
post-lockdown trip. Its route runs from as the Bernina Express. Onboard highlights remarkable architectural
the historic Swiss town of Chur through include panoramic windows, an audio pirouette as it curves 360
mountains and valleys to the palm trees guide available in three languages and wi-fi degrees, and the iconic
and cobbled streets of Tirano in Italy. — ideal for uploading those wish-you-were- six-arched Landwasser
Whether you’re a fan of nature, history here photographs snapped at numerous Viaduct. Spanning the
and culture or you’re simply looking to breathtaking sites along the way, such as Landwasser Valley at 213ft
pack as many discoveries as possible the Alp Grüm station, which overlooks the high and 136 metres long,
into one luxurious four-hour trip, glittering Palü Glacier. this limestone bridge is
the Albula Railway’s most
spectacular landmark.

55
Tunnels, including
several spiral tunnels
built to traverse the
demanding heights of this
dramatic terrain.

2,253
Metres above sea level: the
height at which the Bernina
Express’s journey — the
highest rail crossing in
Europe — peaks.

100%
Since January 2013, the
Rhaetian Railway’s focus
on sustainability has meant
it draws all the electricity
for its rail operations from
local hydroelectric power.
IMAGE: RHAETIAN RAILWAY/ANDREA BADRUTT

Essentials

Getting There: Many airlines fly

direct from the UK to Zurich. The
best way to explore Switzerland is by
public transport using a Swiss
Travel Pass sbb.ch

To find out more, visit berninaexpress.ch

82 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS EMMA GREGG

LEAVE
NO TRACE
The Southern Ocean’s islands and coasts are one of Earth’s truly
wild places — a fragile realm watched over by scientists and
conservationists. Board an eco-friendly expedition ship to experience
the Antarctic Peninsula and South Georgia, where frozen f jords host
fur seals, gentoo penguins and mighty humpbacks

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ANTARCTICA

84 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

I have a new favourite beach.
It’s shingled with fine, grey gravel, lapped by
tiny waves and scattered with chunks of ice.
On this calm, silvery, late-summer afternoon,
the air is a comfortable two degrees.
As I relax on the shore of Neko Harbour,
my face tilted north towards the sun, my
many companions potter among the rocks,
paddle in the shallows, plunge into the sea
or emerge, sleek and wet, from the glossy,
FROM LEFT: Chinstrap
indigo-blue shallows. Occasionally, like
penguins on Point Bottom in A Midsummer Night’s Dream, they
Wild, Elephant Island, raise their chins to the sky and bray.
in front of a monument They’re gentoo penguins, endearing little
to Chilean naval characters with dapper, black-and-white
officer Luis Pardo, who feathers, ketchup-coloured beaks and an
commanded the steam
ability to zip through the water four times
tug that rescued 22 of
faster than an Olympic swimmer. Their
Shackleton’s crew in
1916; the expedition ship
raucous hee-hawing is one of the Antarctic
makes a shore landing, summer’s most distinctive sounds. Recent
while passengers explore studies have revealed they call underwater,
the coast in Zodiac rigid too, making short, squeaky whoops while
inflatable boats. hunting fish — even at depths of up to
PREVIOUS PAGES: A 200 metres. It’s unclear why they do this,
huge iceberg floating although it could be to stun their prey.
in the Weddell Sea,
It’s extremely rare, as a tourist, to gain
seen from the deck of
access to a pristine region that’s been set
the expedition ship as
it cruises around the aside primarily for science and conservation.
Antarctic Peninsula It’s equally rare to experience a place where
wild birds and animals, instead of fleeing,
ANTARCTICA
surround you — on land, while you’re
walking, or at sea, while you’re kayaking or
in a Zodiac dinghy. The islands and coasts
of the Southern Ocean comprise one such
place; their only rival for Edenic natural
drama is the Galápagos Islands.
While most of the 10,000 or so people
who reside in Antarctica during the austral
summer are climatologists, glaciologists,
ornithologists and ecologists, a steady
trickle of ecotourists visit, braving lengthy
flights and stormy seas. Between November
and March in a normal year, around 40,000
tourists cruise around this remarkable region.
Although that might seem like a lot of people
for an ecologically delicate destination, the
International Association of Antarctic Tour
Operators (IAATO) has strict conservation
protocols to minimise damage, and modest-
yet-comfy expedition ships like ours, carrying
no more than 200 passengers, make it easy for
green-thinking individuals to make their visit
as eco-friendly as possible.
These sturdy little icebreakers have a
below-average carbon footprint: some have
streamlined hulls and hybrid engines; others
do away with the sort of amenities found on
luxury cruise ships, such as swimming pools,
glitzy eating and entertainment areas and
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ANTARCTICA

86 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

oversized cabins, and consequently burn less
fuel. But what really sets these expedition
ships apart are their knowledgeable guides,
who offer lectures and excursions that
teach guests everything from seal biology
to survival skills. For a few days, we get a
fleeting taste of what it might be like to be a
polar scientist, naturalist or explorer.
The ship I’ve chosen is classed as ‘small’,
meaning we can steer into narrow inlets
and are permitted to make shore landings.
In preparation, we inspect our outdoor
gear fastidiously.
“Come on everyone, show us your Velcro,”
say the expedition guides, checking our
fastenings and seams for seeds, insects,
mud or sand and scrubbing every inch
with a vacuum cleaner. They school us in
environmental respect, which includes
keeping our distance from wildlife and
leaving no trace. “No tissues, no crumbs,
no messages in the snow!” Soon, they’re
unloading the Zodiac rigid inflatable boats,
ready to bounce us across the ice-strewn sea,
right into the thick of things.
Sixty-five degrees south
Neko Harbour fringes Andvord Bay, a pristine
Antarctic fjord with an elegant, elongated
shape, rather like the outline of Italy. The
Neko was a Tyne-built cargo ship, brought
here by a whaling and logistics company
with bases in the Falkland Islands and South
Georgia. Towards the start of Antarctica’s
notoriously brutal whaling era, just over a
century ago, it served as a floating factory.
Today, after a hard-won reversal of fortunes,
the lake-smooth, iceberg-scattered waters
of Andvord Bay are a picture of peace. As I
watch from the beach, a humpback whale
and her calf make a leisurely appearance,
muddling the mirror image of the mountains
beyond and prompting a flurry of camera
action among the Zodiac passengers who
happen to be extremely close. After the water
settles, a small flock of Wilson’s storm petrels
dances lightly across the surface, plucking
tiny krill from the water.
The snow-laden slopes that rise behind
the beach are striped with penguin paths
that climb steeply to nest sites above. Steady
streams of gentoos, like hikers at a busy
alpine resort, plod doggedly up and down.
It’s time for me to stretch my legs, too.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
Ice-covered headland Wriggling my toes to revive them, I crunch
surrounding the bay of my way around the harbour to a slope that
Drygalski Fjord, South overlooks a mighty glacier. A small crowd
Georgia, viewed from of my fellow voyagers is already there. As
the expedition ship; I pause to admire the cliffs of ice, there’s a
young Antarctic fur seal thunderous boom as a section collapses,
in the tussock grass at
sending a mini tsunami of ripples radiating
Peggotty Bluff, South
across the bay.
Georgia; a malt whisky
named after Shackleton,
“There she goes!” says photographer
served to passengers on Shayne McGuire, who’s been staking out this
deck in mugs containing spot. “I’ve seen this glacier calve on many
shavings of glacier ice occasions, and it stops me in my tracks
ANTARCTICA
every time.” The waves diminish while the
penguins, unruffled, simply continue with
their business.
The deliberate exploitation of wildlife may
be over, but Antarctica now faces a different
threat. According to climate scientists,
calving events — the poster phenomena of
climate change in the polar regions — are
becoming more common. The Antarctic
Peninsula is warming approximately
six times faster than the global average,
and the ice shelves surrounding it are
thinning. Although the region appears
untouched by human hands, climate
effects are far reaching, and Antarctica is
very fragile. Being in its icy midst renews
our determination to do all we can to help
protect it.
Returning to our ship, our spirits rise to
fever pitch as, to high-energy music, we strip
down to our swimsuits and steel ourselves
for that most eccentric of Antarctic rituals:
the open-water dip known as the Polar
Plunge. For some, it’s hydrotherapy; for
others, it’s a dare. “There’s no going back
now!” say the newlyweds who don their
wedding outfits for the occasion. In ones
and twos, a seasonal record of 78 of us tiptoe
barefoot down the metal gangway of our nice
warm ship and hurl ourselves, screeching,
into the icy bay.
Across turbulent seas
My voyage began in the tourist-friendly port
of Ushuaia in southern Patagonia, close to
South America’s gracefully pointed toe. On
a late-afternoon cruise through the Beagle
Channel, the strait separating southern
Chile and Argentina, I grin with excitement
at the first penguins I see — a small raft
of Magellanics, porpoising alongside at
impressive speed. Later, as the fading light
flattens the craggy mountains to silhouettes,
fin whales and Peale’s dolphins appear. It’s a
promising start.
Keen to experience more than a fleeting
glimpse of the frozen south, my trip is to
be longer than most, visiting some of the
best coastal sites on the Antarctic Peninsula
and South Shetlands and returning via
the teeming penguin and seal colonies of
South Georgia.
Beyond the Beagle Channel, a rite of
passage begins. For two days, our ship
bucks and rolls its way across the infamous
Drake Passage, an ocean crossing so stormy
that every object that isn’t permanently
fixed takes on a life of its own. My cabin,
incongruously (I now realise) furnished
with open shelves, ends up looking like a
poltergeist has done its worst.
As we become more accustomed to
the ship’s unpredictable movements, I
begin asking my fellow passengers whether
they think the trip ahead will be worth it.
Nobody falters.
May 2021 87
ANTARCTICA

Each time we land,

it’s almost as if
ours is the first
party to have
ever arrived

88 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
ANTARCTICA

May 2021 89
 ANTARCTICA

“It’s all part of the adventure”, says a

gung-ho Australian. “And I’m enjoying being
among like-minded individuals: people
who are interested in nature and curious,
and brave. I think it’s telling that quite a few
people on board are travelling solo, like me,
and sharing with someone they’ve never met
before. My cabin-mate is lovely. We feel we’re
in the same boat. Literally! As long as we get
some good weather later, I’m fine.”
Another, who’s travelled here before,
confesses she’s hooked. “It’s the pure air”, she
says. “They say Antarctica changes you, and
it’s true. Next time, maybe I’ll push myself
even further and try a sleep-out on the snow.
A friend who tried it said they were expecting
total silence, but got quite a symphony. There
were birds chattering, glaciers booming and
the ice going snap, crackle and pop. I can’t
imagine anything more exciting!”
Weather worries are an understandable
preoccupation for Antarctic tourists. We’ve
all seen photos of gnarly polar adventurers
with snowy eyelashes, icicled noses and
frostbitten extremities. In 2020, however,
the region experienced its highest ever
recorded temperatures — exceeding 18C
at the Peninsula’s northern tip — for the
second year since 2015. In reality, I find it
easy to stay comfortable, dressing from top
to toe in breathable layers and protecting
myself against sun, wind and sea. We quickly
get used to the routine of descending to
the ship’s mudroom to kit ourselves out in
waterproofs, thick-soled rubber boots and exciting first: a chance to set foot on the
compact lifejackets for the next adventure. Antarctic mainland, pondering the dizzying
On our earliest forays, we watch the notion that if we were to continue another
sunrise gild the glaciers edging the 25 degrees south, climbing around 9,000ft in
Neumayer and Lemaire Channels, skim altitude, we’d reach the South Pole.
across calm waters to our first penguin
colonies, at Damoy Point, and see leopard In the wake of a great explorer
seals lounging on pads of ice, their faces Since Antarctica’s weather and sea
fixed in sinister, predatory smiles. This late conditions can be challenging, landings
in the summer, the leopards are well fed: — whether on the islands or the mainland
plenty of fledgling Adélie and chinstrap — are never guaranteed. On top of that,
penguins have already flopped into the IAATO’s rules state that only one ship can
water, risking the seals’ deadly jaws. The visit each landing site at a time, with no
gentoos, which breed later, will be next; more than 100 people allowed on shore at
for now, the downy chicks remain on land, any given moment. As well as minimising
pestering their parents for food the moment disturbance, this maximises adventure. Each
they lurch back from their foraging trips. time we land, it’s almost as if ours is the first
Hungry young gentoos scurry around party to have ever arrived.
Port Lockroy’s historic huts and Royal Mail People have been landing on the Southern
post office, while their elders inspect our Ocean’s shores since James Cook first
dry bags and defend themselves against crossed the Antarctic Circle in 1773. For
opportunistic sheathbills. We continue on several decades, however, they didn’t
to Pléneau Bay, where we admire icebergs progress beyond the islands: it was only
that seem to glow from within, and to Trinity in early 1821, exactly 200 years ago, that
Island, where we tiptoe through a sculpture adventurers set foot on the mainland for the
park of curvaceous ice and velvety seals. first time. ABOVE: Birdwatching on
deck as the ship cruises
Later, on Petermann Island, we discover that Focused on hunting seals for profit rather
around the Antarctic
Antarctic snow isn’t always white; as the than making history, these pioneers kept
Peninsula
climate warms, algae fertilised by penguin quiet about their movements; the locations PREVIOUS PAGES:
guano can tint it olive green or rose pink. of the best landing spots were a trade Argentine research
Neko Harbour and its near neighbour, the secret. But curiosity grew, and within 100 hut and sailing boat,
aptly named Paradise Bay, offer us another years, some of the world’s most celebrated Petermann Island

May 2021 91
ANTARCTICA
explorers had made their mark on the
continent. By the end of the 20th century,
the shift from ruthless exploitation of
Antarctica’s natural resources to science,
conservation and ecotourism was more or
less complete.
As we round the tip of the peninsula,
the weather flares up, forcing the captain
to change course. “This is where things
get really interesting,” says assistant
expedition leader Christophe Gouraud.
We take it in turns to cram onto the bridge,
watching silently as the officers navigate
a tricky route past monumental icebergs,
their cliffs crazed with cracks. Venturing
into locations that expedition ships rarely
visit, we explore the Antarctic Sound, dip
the ship’s toes in the Weddell Sea and
spend two hours cruising past the immense
A-68A, the rogue tabular iceberg that, until
recently, seemed to be heading for South
Georgia, posing a serious threat to its
delicate ecosystems.
On Elephant Island (named for the mighty
seals that once lolled on its rocky shore),
chinstrap penguins dodge the spray. It’s
this scrap of beach where the crew of Ernest
Shackleton’s Endurance expedition were
stranded for 105 long days in 1916. It took
the explorer another 16 gruelling days to sail
from here to South Georgia to seek help, a
crossing we manage in just over two.
92 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
King penguins on the rocky shore of
St Andrew’s Bay, South Georgia
“Everyone looks forward to South Georgia
— even the guys from the engine room who
you never normally see,” says expedition
ornithologist Ab Steenvoorden, who scans
the skies for albatrosses on our approach.
“They save up their time off and go out on
their own Zodiac trips. It’s an incredible
island, and the only way you can get here is
by sea.”
Disembarking at Peggotty Bluff,
where Shackleton, already exhausted, began
his epic island crossing, I’m amused to
discover that South Georgia’s wild animals are
even more fearless than Antarctica’s. Young
fur seals, relentlessly curious and prone to
biting, galumph towards us. We fling out our
arms to make ourselves look big, giving them
pause, then pick our way through the tussock
grass to a distant cove, ruled by a true giant:
an elephant seal as long as a skip.
The morning we arrive in St Andrew’s
Bay, I wake early and head out on deck,
binoculars in hand. I notice that the
river of speckles on the shore is shifting.
They’re king penguins: an estimated
300,000 adults, plus chicks. Within an hour
or two, I’ll be standing among these stately
birds as they preen, posture and call. A fellow
voyager says it perfectly: “This is one of those
places that you really have to experience
first-hand, with your own eyes, ears, nose,
heart and soul.”
ESSENTIALS
SOUTH
200 Miles AMERICA
Ushuaia ANTARCTICA
BEAGLE CHANNEL
age
Pass
Drake ELEPHANT ISLAND
SOUTH
GEORGIA
TRINITY ISLAND
PEGGOTTY BLUFF
ST ANDREW'S BAY
ANDVORD BAY
NEKO HARBOUR
PORT LOCKROY
ANTARCTIC PARADISE BAY We d d e l l
PENINSULA PETERMANN ISLAND Sea
Getting there & around
The main departure points for Antarctic
cruises are Ushuaia in Argentina and
Punta Arenas in Chile. British Airways
flies from Heathrow to Buenos Aires and
Santiago, where you can connect to
Ushuaia with Aerolíneas Argentinas, or
Punta Arenas with LATAM Airlines.
ba.com aerolineas.com.ar latam.com
Average flight time: 16h to Buenos Aires
and 3h35m onward to Ushuaia.
Antarctic expedition ships usually take
two days to cruise the Beagle Channel
and Drake Passage and spend four or
five days around the South Shetlands
and Antarctic Peninsula before their
two-day return leg. Longer itineraries,
including South Georgia and the
Falkland Islands, last two to three weeks.
The nearest commercial airstrip to the
Antarctic Peninsula is on King George
Island in the South Shetlands. It’s
served by DAP Airlines charter flights
from Punta Arenas, as part of cruise
packages designed to skip the Drake
Passage. dapairline.com
When to go
Antarctic expedition cruises operate
between November and March. In high
season (December and January),
daytime temperatures around the
Antarctic Peninsula average a relatively
mild 1.5C, the days are long and
penguins can be seen tending their
chicks. In later months, the penguins
begin disappearing out to sea, but as a
consolation, whale sightings increase.
South Georgia is colder, with
temperatures rarely rising above zero
and dipping to -3C by March.
More info
IAATO. iaato.org
Lonely Planet Antarctica. RRP: £18.99
Antarctic Wildlife, by James Lowen
(WILDGuides). RRP: £17.99
How to do it
CHIMU ADVENTURES offers a choice
of expedition cruises in Antarctica
and the Southern Ocean, including
a 21-day tour of the Antarctic Peninsula,
South Georgia and Falkland Islands
from Ushuaia, Argentina, from £11,660
per person, excluding flights.
chimuadventures.com
 PARTNER CONTENT FOR MADEIRA PROMOTION BUREAU
FOUR THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT
MADEIRA
The dramatic Portuguese archipelago is where
wild geography collides with delicious food,
wonderful wildlife and carnival colour
IMAGES: AANDRÉ CARVALHO; JACKSON GROVES
It’s home to fiery landscapes.
Madeira was born of volcanic fury, bursting
up from the seabed in a series of seismic
explosions. Some five million years later,
it spreads out in a haze of jagged summits
and plunging ravines that are at odds with
its image as a place for sunny getaways. The
island’s highest peak is Pico Ruivo — a 6,106ft
titan that’s only accessible on foot. The route up
requires a little effort, but the reward is a view
that reveals the coast in every direction. Allow
an entire afternoon to do it.
It has superb food and wine.
Fine dining shouldn’t be limited to the
confines of your luxury hotel restaurant. You
can eat as extravagantly as you wish in the
capital, Funchal — not least at Il Gallo D’Oro,
the two-Michelin-starred jewel run by chef
Benoit Sinthon. The fare sold at the Mercado
dos Lavradores — fruit, fish and traditional
Portuguese carne de vinha d’alhos sandwiches
of pork in garlic marinade — is simpler, but
no less enticing. Then there’s the island’s most
eulogised speciality — Madeira wine. Visit
Blandy’s Wine Lodge to sample the drink and,
of course, buy a bottle or two.
It knows how to party.
Madeira’s calendar is stuffed with events
and celebrations, of which the noisiest is the
Atlantic Festival — four consecutive Saturday
nights of music and fireworks that light up
the port in Funchal as a precursor to summer.
Meanwhile, the Carnaval da Madeira (held in
February) is almost as loud and has an air of
Mardi Gras mayhem to it. The Madeira Flower
Festival reduces the volume, but envelops the
island in parades, exhibitions and the scent of
petals in April and May.
It’s a wildlife wonderland.
The surrounding sea life is an unmissable
element of Madeira’s appeal. There are many
operators that cast off in search of the likes
of common, bottlenose and striped dolphins;
and sperm, Bryde’s and pilot whales, all of
which swim in the archipelago’s waters. The
archipelago’s second-largest island, Porto
Santo, is known for its plethora of marine
wildlife and can be reached via a daily ferry
from Funchal.
Essentials
Getting there: British Airways, EasyJet and TUI all
offer direct flights from the UK to Madeira. ba.com
easyjet.com tui.co.uk
To find out more, visit madeiraallyear.com
 SI EM

94 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
REAP
Angkor, the former seat of Cambodia’s Khmer Empire, is thought to have
been home to around a million people at its peak. Today, the sprawling
complex has been reclaimed by the forest, and its evocative ruins are
some of Southeast Asia’s best-known landmarks. At its southern edge
lies Siem Reap — a modern city of distinctive crafts and flavours that
offers a thrilling contrast to the majesty of the ancient capital

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS M A R K PA R R E N TAY L O R

May 2021 95
CAMBODIA

96 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 CAMBODIA

Vendors, from basket weavers to fruit sellers, tout their wares on the roadside at Preah Dak, one of several villages
surrounding Siem Reap. Exploring these, as well as the awe-inspiring temples dotting the region, is best done by tuk-tuk; with
miles of dense, humid forest to pass through, getting around coolly and quickly is essential for locals and travellers alike.

May 2021 97
98 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 CAMBODIA

Deep in the forest and enclosed by a moat, the

vast Angkor Thom complex surrounding Bayon
Temple is a regal feast of architecture. The final
capital of the Khmer Empire, the ‘Great City’ is
accessed by four gates that align with the main
points of the compass. Each portal is crowned
with an ornate stone tower, carved into which is a
giant, crumbling face. The faces — at once serene
and strong — are all said to be that of King
Jayavarman VII, who ruled the Khmer Empire in
the 12th century.

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100 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 CAMBODIA

From the early morning onwards, Siem Reap’s

Central Market thrums with activity: a clash of
vibrant colours and aromas as people pack out the
crisscross of streets. Much of the produce comes
from the surrounding villages; it includes syrup
and palm hearts gathered by Seourn every
morning from the top of 100ft palm trees. There’s
a burgeoning dining scene in the city, too — a
charge led by restaurants such as Lum Orng, which
focuses on farm-to-table dining. Not all of Siem
Reap’s culinary past has survived, however;
Tan Sotho, owner of Sala Kdei restaurant, can
remember the dark times under the Khmer Rouge
regime in the 1970s when the scarcity of food
resulted in the loss of many traditional recipes.

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CAMBODIA

As the sun begins to set, an espresso martini is on the cards at The Little Red Fox Espresso in Siem Reap’s Kandal Village, a
buzzy quarter of cafes and boutiques. It’s a plum spot to while away an evening, particularly after a day exploring the vast
complex of Angkor Wat, where, as the sun dips behind the towers of the temple, the sky softens into a bright, golden haze.

102 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Ultimate
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PARTNER CONTENT FOR THE COLORADO TOURISM OFFICE
THE SCENIC AND HISTORIC BYWAYS OF
COLORADO
The western US state is renowned for its road trips — set off along its byways to explore vast
swathes of unfenced wilderness, Wild West territories and vibrant local communities
From the Rocky Mountains to wildflower-
strewn prairies, Colorado offers travellers
a vast natural playground, teeming with
biodiversity and steeped in rich heritage. The
Centennial State is easily explored on a road
trip, with 26 designated scenic and historic
byways connecting the dots between areas
of scenic, ecological, cultural and historic
importance. On the road, travellers can
glimpse relics of frontier life in canyons and
Gold Rush towns; hunt for fossils, dinosaur
footprints and rock art left behind by
Ancestral Puebloans; or spot grazing moose,
bison and bears in the state’s national parks.
Here are three routes to inspire a future trip.
In southwestern Colorado, the 236-mile
San Juan Skyway starts and ends in the
town of Durango, a jumping-off point for
a hike in San Juan National Forest. From
Silverton, strike out along the canyon-
clinging Million Dollar Highway, allowing
for several stops to take in its legendary
vistas. Along this route, you’ll also be able
to see the picture-perfect Dallas Divide on
your way to the National Historic Landmark
district of Telluride, a good place to stop
overnight. This former silver-mining town
is now a popular ski resort, connected to
wintry Mountain Village via a 13-minute
gondola ride — the only free public
transportation system of its kind in North
America. Otherwise, choose to be pampered
at Dunton Hot Springs, a small, renewable
energy-powered resort with log cabins
nestled deep in the Rocky Mountains.
The 205-mile West Elk Loop, a short
drive from the ski resort of Aspen —
where all city-owned facilities are 100%
run on renewable energy — is another
highlight. While it can be driven nonstop
in under eight hours, the round-trip is best
explored over several days, making time
for rock climbing, horse trekking or wildlife
hikes. Nearby, you’ll find the Black Canyon
of the Gunnison National Park, a narrow
gorge where rock walls rise up 2,700ft above
the Gunnison River. On a clear night, stop
here to admire twinkling constellations.
Finally, linking the city of Fort Collins
with the verdant North Park, the 101-mile
Cache la Poudre Byway passes through a
glacial valley next to Cache la Poudre River,
Colorado’s only federally designated National
Wild and Scenic River. Make sure to take
time to explore Fort Collins, a craft brewery
hub; New Belgium Brewing, a company that
produces seasonal beers while inspiring
social and environmental change in the local
community, offers free tours of its brewery.
Once you begin the journey along Colorado
Highway 14, take frequent stops to watch
expert kayakers tackle Cache la Poudre’s
rapids or scan the scenery for bighorn
sheep, moose and elk quietly grazing on the
rocky hills and grassland. The route was
once used by Native Americans and French
fur trappers, and can be driven in around
three hours, with many visitors continuing
IMAGES: GETTY
on to Streamboat Springs, Colorado’s
northernmost ski resort, where walking
down Main Street feels like taking a step
back in time to the Old West.

SEVEN WAYS TO PROTECT COLORADO’S
HERITAGE AND BIODIVERSITY
In 2017, the Colorado Tourism Office and the
Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics
joined forces to create the Care for Colorado
campaign, aimed at encouraging visitors to
look after the state’s open spaces.
Know before you go
Protect yourself and others while exploring
by planning ahead, researching weather
conditions and taking care to carry all
necessary equipment. Remember to be
considerate, too, and aware of your group’s
fitness and ability levels before deciding
which trail to explore.
Stick to trails
Help preserve natural areas by sticking to
the region’s 39,000 miles of marked trails,
and don’t be tempted to take shortcuts that
can damage plants. Bed down at one of the
13,000 designated campsites, making sure
to pitch your tent at least 200ft from lakes,
rivers and streams.
Trash the trash
Need the toilet? Use a disposable bag
(available at most camping stores) or walk
at least 70 steps from trails, water and
other people before digging a cat hole
six inches deep. Make sure to also pack
biodegradable soap and wash yourself at
least 200ft from waterways.
PARTNER CONTENT FOR THE COLORADO TOURISM OFFICE
Leave it as you find it
Picking plants and carving trees can
destroy them forever — snap away only
with a camera to help preserve Colorado’s
750 different species of wildflower. When
stopping overnight at a mountain hut,
remove any food or rubbish that may attract
mice or other unwanted creatures.
Be careful with fire
Colorado’s low humidity can create dry,
dangerous conditions. Check local fire
restrictions and minimise wildfire risks
by always keeping campfires attended,
extinguishing embers and ensuring any
ashes are completely cool before you leave.
Keep wildlife wild
Colorado has a huge variety of wildlife, from
squirrels to moose. Keep animals — and
yourself — safe by observing from a distance
and resisting the temptation to feed, follow With four national
or pet them, especially during mating season.
parks, 42 state parks,
Share the trails and parks 960 wildlife species
Research and explore Colorado’s lesser- and 28 ski areas and
known paths and sites to prevent crowds resorts, the Centennial
and enjoy a more secluded experience. Be State is a sunny,
considerate when passing other hikers and
bikers on the trails: silence your mobile
four-season magnet
phone and keep voices and music low, so for nature lovers and
everyone can tune in to nature. adrenalin junkies.
From left: Mountain biking on
the Colorado Trail; bull moose,
Rocky Mountains
Essentials
Getting there: With its airport
offering nonstop flights to the UK,
the capital of Denver — a modern
hub known for its expansive
landscapes, sporting attractions
and vibrant music scene — is the
main gateway to Colorado and
a great destination to discover
before hitting the road. The state
is easy to explore on a road trip,
and rental cars can be picked
up at the airport. Some rental
companies, such as It’s Electric
Rentals, offer electric vehicles.
To find out more, visit colorado.com
 CIT Y LIFE

LJUBLJANA
ZZ
Z

You’re never far from the green and serene in Slovenia’s

castle-topped capital. At its heart is a leafy river, around
which bike paths, food markets and arts festivals unfold
WORDS: Jessica Vincent PHOTOGRAPHS: Ciril Jazbeck

M
y kayak cuts through the
Ljubljanica’s bottle-green waters. On
its right bank, the Central Market
is in full swing: vats bubble with fermenting
sauerkraut, ice-filled buckets shine with
Adriatic sea bass; sourdough ovens puff
woodsmoke around stone colonnades. On its
left bank, cyclists wheel under the watchful
gaze of dragons crouching, mouth agape, on
Zmajski Bridge, poised for battle.
The Ljubljanica is key to life here; a
central artery where students come to
drink craft beer, where artists and antique
sellers peddle their wares, and where
musicians come to entertain tourists. To
feel the pulse of Ljubljana’s watery heart,
I decided to kayak the length of the city,
paddling past the cobbled streets and clay-
roofed buildings of the city centre, where
restaurants such as Monstera Bistro and
Atelje are revolutionising Slovenian cooking.
Their creative spins on local, sustainably
sourced produce so impressed Michelin
that it published its first-ever culinary guide
to Slovenia in 2020. But it’s street food that
reigns supreme. One of the most popular
al fresco snacks is kranjska klobasa, a pork
sausage that’s doused in a spicy mustard
and horseradish topping — I catch a whiff
as I paddle close to Klobasarna, its most
famous purveyor. It’s best eaten kerbside,
as are strukli (tarragon-laced cottage cheese
dumplings) and burek (a cheese-filled pastry),
the city’s other street food staples.
Further downriver, having passed sherbet-
coloured churches and pillared bridges, I
reach an embankment, terraced with stone
steps and lined with weeping willows. Like
the market, Trnovo Pier (or ‘the beach’, as
it’s known locally) is one of homegrown
architect Jože Plečnik’s masterpieces;
today, people come here to walk, read, and
contemplate life. I paddle on — townhouses
soon giving way to wooden summerhouses,
the city fast dissolving into dense forest.
I look back towards the city for the first
time and see Slovenia’s capital in all its glory:
its castle perched on a mushroom of foliage,
red rooftops and turquoise spires neatly
circling its base; the Julian Alps, razor-sharp
and dusted with snow. And, through the heart
of it all, the Ljubljanica’s quiet green pulse.

106 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
May 2021 107
LJUBLJANA
SEE & DO
LJUBLJANA CASTLE: Watching
over the city since the early Middle
Ages, Ljubljana Castle is the capital’s
most recognisable landmark. Climb the
watchtower for 360-degree views of the city
and surrounding peaks, and learn about the
castle’s place in Slovenia’s turbulent history
at myriad museum spaces, where recent
temporary exhibitions have included Once
Upon a Time, a journey through Slovenia’s
rich history of folk traditions. Don’t miss the
newly renovated wine bar, with wine from
the castle’s vines, and Strelec Restaurant
— recently awarded a Michelin Plate.
ljubljanskigrad.si
JOŽE PLEČNIK’S ARCHITECTURE: Ljubljana
owes much of its beauty to Jože Plečnik,
the Slovenian architect who redesigned the
city after an earthquake in 1895 destroyed
or damaged many of its buildings. Visit
Ljubljana organises Plečnik-themed walking
tours that visit the architect’s masterpieces,
including Plečnik House, his former home,
now an architecture museum. mgml.si
visitljubljana.com
LJUBLJANA PUPPET THEATRE: Housed in a
19th-century building at the foot of the hill
on which Ljubljana Castle stands, the theatre
continues Slovenia’s centuries-old puppetry
tradition with weekly performances and
biannual marionette festivals. Its award-
winning shows are for both children and
adults, with classics like Pinocchio and
Doctor Faustus staged regularly. lgl.si
108 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
City of dragons
// Legend has it
that Ljubljana
was founded when
Jason, the ancient
Greek hero, defeated
a dragon near
the source of the
Ljubljanica. The
green dragon — said
to epitomise courage,
wisdom and strength
— has been the
capital’s symbol since
medieval times
CENTRAL MARKET: The Plečnik-designed CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Vegetables
market is a must for sampling Slovenia’s at Ljubljana Central Market; Tivoli
best produce. After stocking up on donkey Park, the city’s largest park and a
popular spot for cycling and outdoor
sausages and sauerkraut juice in Vodnik
workouts; Piranske Soline, which sells
Square, follow the riverside colonnade for
salt harvested on Slovenia’s shoreline;
kiosks selling crackling-topped buckwheat flowers at Ljubljana Central Market
‘porridge’, cottage cheese-filled dumplings PREVIOUS PAGE: One of the Triple
and sour turnip stew. visitljubljana.com/ Bridges, which cross the Ljubljanica,
central-market connecting the medieval and modern
TIVOLI PARK: Offering a peaceful escape in sides of Ljubljana
the heart of the city, Tivoli Park is a green
oasis of cycle paths and manicured lawns
for picnicking, slacklining and outdoor
workouts. The International Centre of Graphic
Arts, housed inside a former 17th-century
castle near the entrance of the park, hosts
the world’s oldest contemporary graphic arts
event, dating back to 1955. mglc-lj.si
EXPLORE BY BIKE: With a cycling network that
spans over 143 miles, Ljubljana is one of the
world’s most bike-friendly cities. The capital
has four self-guided routes, one of which
explores the forested trails of Tivoli Park and
another that follows a Plečnik-themed route
through the city’s Old Town. Bikes can be
rented from Ljubljana’s self-service system,
BicikeLJ, for just €1 (90p) a week. bicikelj.si
VINEYARD-HOPPING: Even though Ljubljana
isn’t part of a major wine-growing area, its
central location means you’re never more
than an hour from Slovenia’s best vineyards.
Guided tasting tours from Ljubljana to wine-
growing hubs such as Vipava Valley, Maribor
and Nova Gorica can be organised through
Visit Ljubljana. visitljubljana.com
LJUBLJANA

May 2021 109

LJUBLJANA

Creative hotspot // Between

June and September, music,
dance, film and theatre events
are held across the city as
part of the Ljubljana Summer
Festival. A popular venue is
Jože Plečnik’s Križanke, set in
a former monastery

BUY
FOR SLOVENIAN PRODUCE: The Old
Town’s Ciril Metodov street is a great place
to shop for Slovenian produce: local olive oil
from Oliviers & Co, prized Linden honey from
Honey House, and Piran salt from the ancient
pans of Sečovlje Salina Nature Park.
oliviers-co.si honeyhouse.si soline.si
FOR ANTIQUES AND ODDITIES: Every Sunday
morning, dozens of stands pitch up along
the Ljubljanica, south of the Triple Bridge,
for the city’s largest flea market. You’ll fi nd
everything from collectable stamps and
vintage bicycles to furniture. Arrive early for
the best fi nds. eurovaria.si/nedeljski-bolsji-trg
FOR ARTS & CRAFTS: Idrija lace, Rogaška
Slatina glass and Prekmurje pottery
have been at the heart of Slovenian
craftsmanship for centuries. A handful
of independent workshops in the Old Town
still produce and sell traditional handicrafts;
they include Galerija Idrijske Čipke, Galerija
Rustika and Skrina. galerijarustika.si
skrina.si idrija-lace.com

ZZ
Z SLEEP
THE FUZZY LOG: Opened in
summer 2020, this unique new addition to
Ljubljana’s hostel scene offers an eclectic
mix of urban rooftop glamping, ‘log cabins’
and futuristic sleeping pods, making it a fun
choice for travellers on a budget.
uhcollection.si/the-fuzzy-log
LESAR HOTEL ANGEL: This sleek boutique
hotel is located at the foot of Ljubljana
Castle in the Old Town. The building’s
classic facade remains unchanged since the
1800s, while inside the rooms are stylishly
decorated with antique furniture and
Picasso-inspired artwork. angelhotel.si
INTERCONTINENTAL LJUBLJANA:
Ljubljana’s only five-star comes with
sky-high views of the city, an 18th-floor
indoor pool and a Michelin Plate rooftop
restaurant. The minimalist, ultra-modern Local farmer Janez Cetin feeds
decor is orientated towards the business Nande, his American rhea, who
traveller, but the spa facilities and fabulous accompanies him into town from
breakfasts tick the leisure boxes, too. their home, Cetin Farm
ihg.com/intercontinental

110 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 LJUBLJANA

EAT
KLOBASARNA: It doesn’t get more
Slovenian than stopping by Klobasarna for
kranjska klobasa (pork sausage) with mustard,
horseradish and a warm kaiser roll. The
struklji and ričet (barley and smoked pork
stew) are also delicious here. klobasarna.si
MONSTERA BISTRO: Awarded the
Michelin Plate in early 2020, Bistro Monstera
represents affordable, zero-waste gourmet
cooking. The €21 (£19) three-course
lunch menu changes regularly to ensure
ingredients like veal, clams and foraged
mushrooms are always at their freshest.
monsterabistro.si
ATLJE: At the forefront of Slovenia’s
culinary revolution is Atlje, Ljubljana’s first
and only Michelin-starred restaurant. Chef
Zorg Zupan gives local ingredients a creative
twist in dishes such as pulled beef cheek
doughnuts, and stale bread ice cream served
with infused oils, foams and crumbs. For
the full experience, opt for the nine-course
evening taster menu. restavracijaatelje.com

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Salad of burrata, radicchio,

almonds and beetroot molasses at Atelje; chefs Bine
Volcic and Gregor Jelnikar, Monstera Bistro; chef Bine
Volcic preparing a dish at Monstera Bistro

May 2021 111

LJUBLJANA

ESSENTIALS
Tivoli
Park
Zmajski bridge

Jože Plečnik
(central) market

Ljubljana
Castle
L J U B L J A N A

Ljubljan
ica
SLOVENIA
LJUBLJANA

Ri
ve
Trnovo Pier
r
200 yards

Getting there & around

LIKE A LOCAL
HIKE ŠMARNA GORA: When the sun
shines, Ljubljana’s outdoor-loving locals
flock to nearby Šmarna Gora, a 2,218ft hill
that’s home to 15 forested hiking and biking
trails. The summit rewards hikers with views
of the Julian Alps and the Ljubljana Basin,
plus sugar-dusted doughnuts and thick
barley stews, served at hilltop restaurant,
Gostilna Ledinek. smarnagora.com
FEAST ON BUREK AFTER HOURS: This crisp,
golden pastry is Ljubljana’s answer to the
early-morning kebab. Open 24 hours, burek
institutions like Burek Olimpija and Nobel
Burek serve their minced meat- and cheese-
filled filo snacks to queuing locals around
Take away at Pritličje, a popular
daytime cafe and evening music
venue in the city centre
AFTER HOURS
METELKOVA MESTO: Visit during the
day, and graffiti-covered Metelkova Mesto
— one of Europe’s largest urban squats
— can feel abandoned. But come nightfall,
this former army base transforms into
Slovenia’s go-to underground music venue.
Hardcore punk concerts, alternative theatre
and immersive exhibitions are just some of
the events on offer. metelkovamesto.org
WINE BARS: Only 15% of the 90 million litres
of Slovenian wine produced each year is
exported. So, now’s your chance to find out
what you’ve been missing. Popular Ljubljana
vinotekas (wine bars) include Wine Bar Šuklje
and Vinoteka Movia, both with romantic
Travelling by train is simple, setting
off from London in the morning and
arriving the following afternoon, with
a night spent in Munich.
eurostar.com raileurope.com
EasyJet has daily flights from
Stansted to Ljubljana Jože Pučnik
Airport; British Airways flies there
from Heathrow twice a week in
summer. easyjet.com ba.com
Average flight time: 2h.
Ljubljana is best explored on foot or
by bike. A free electric taxi service
operates in the city centre.
When to go
Summer — festival season — is the
city’s busiest period, witnessing
highs of 27C. For fewer crowds and
temperate weather, visit in spring or
autumn. Winter sees sub-zero
temperatures and good snow in the
surrounding ski resorts.
More info
visitljubljana.com
slovenia.info
Lonely Planet Slovenia. RRP: £15.99.
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

the clock. For the ultimate hangover cure,
opt for the Italian-inspired ‘burek pizza’.
facebook.com/burekolimpija facebook.com/
nobelfoodgenius
KAYAK ON THE LJUBLJANICA: You can rent
kayaks from any of the boating clubs along
the river. For a guided kayaking, book a tour
with Iškadventure. iskaadventure.si
riverside seating in the heart of the Old
Town. winebar.suklje.com movia.si
KOLIBRI: For Ljubljana’s most luxurious
cocktails, head to retro-style Kolibri on
Židovska steza street, where patrons can ask
the mixologist to shake them a personalised
cocktail. On Fridays and Saturdays, there’s
live piano music. kolibri-bar.com
How to do it
CITRUS HOLIDAYS has three nights in
Hotel Lev from £159 per person,
B&B, including return flights from
Stansted. citrusholidays.co.uk

112 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 The Exclusive
Seaside Retreat
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Three boutique seaside villas, discreetly
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magnificent-blue.com Porto Heli, Peloponnese - Greece

 T R AV E L G E E K S
ASK THE EXPERTS
NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP? ARE YOU
AFTER RECOMMENDATIONS, TIPS AND GUIDANCE?
THE TRAVEL GEEKS HAVE THE ANSWERS…
Q // I want to explore
the UK coast in a
campervan. What tips
do you have, and is
there a van-friendly
region you’d suggest?
114 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Offering unrivalled freedom, UK
campervan trips are booming.
Established hire companies have
lately been joined by a number
of boutique operators offering
revamped retro rides and van-
sharing websites with a choice of
privately owned vehicles. Rentals
run the gamut of all-mod-cons,
family-size motorhomes to
rustic 1960s VWs via companies
like Barrell of Monkeys, Bunk
Campers, Yescapa and Quirky
Campers and van sharing
communities such as Camplify
and Camptoo. barrellofmonkeys.
com bunkcampers.com yescapa.
co.uk quirkycampers.com
camplify.co.uk camptoo.co.uk
You can’t park up and
camp just anywhere, so book
pitches in advance through
organisations like The Camping
and Caravanning Club, or Pitchup.
thecampingandcaravanningclub.
co.uk pitchup.com
“Estimate the route you want
to take, and book campsites in
advance to be safe,” says Indie
Campers, one of Europe’s largest
campervan rental companies.
“Nevertheless, don’t forget
to leave room for impromptu
activities, and enjoy each moment
as it comes.” It recommends a
tour of the Fife coast, Scotland’s
sunniest spot and home of its
longest continuous coastal
path, a 117-mile opportunity
to stretch your legs between
drives. The Scottish village of
Culross, the castle at Aberdour
and the beaches at St Andrews
West Sands and Kinghorn all
come highly recommended.
indiecampers.co.uk
Founded in the USA in the 1950s
and specialising in European
VW camper rental, AutoEurope
now offers rentals worldwide
through its website, which allows
you to compare the prices,
models and equipment offered
by a number of different rental
companies. Its suggested route
offers ‘the best of the South West’
starting from the beach town of
Bournemouth, driving west along
the coast through Dorset, Devon
and into Cornwall if time allows,
or head north into Somerset,
perhaps followed by a couple of
nights in the Cotswolds. It also
recommends using Brit Stops to
book pitches: “Several enterprises
seek to bring UK campervan users
and landowners together, and Brit
Stops provides innovative info
for no-frills campervan parking
services, offering travellers the
chance to stay at farms and pubs
free of charge. autoeurope.co.uk
britstops.com
Also, read Take the Slow Road by
IMAGES: GETTY
Martin Dorey, which lists dozens
of inspirational and lesser-known
itineraries around the UK by
campervan. SARAH BARRELL
Q // What The EU has designated 2021 the
European Year of Rail (EYR), and
are the best as more of us yearn for slow travel
resources and seek ways to reduce our
and advice for carbon footprint, post-lockdown
seems a fine time to embrace
planning train continental train travel.
travel in The Trainline and Rail Europe
Europe? deal directly with multiple
European operators, enabling
you to book trains from the UK
to most of Western Europe. They
charge a small booking fee, but
the websites are in English and
accept all credit cards, making
them a simple and safe option.
Bear in mind that different local
operators have varying booking
horizons, anywhere between 90
Q // I’m The UK is lucky to have between
34-38% of the world’s grey seal
interested in population (the common seal
spotting seals is the other variety found here),
on the UK’s but these hugely charismatic and
globally rare animals still face
coast — how major challenges. Disturbance
can I do this can cause them unnecessary
responsibly? distress and injury; August 2020
was the worst August on record
in South West England for seal
disturbances as people flocked to
the coast between lockdowns.
It’s crucial to keep a distance of
at least 100m, so take binoculars
and a camera with a good zoom
lens if you’re set on taking
pictures. If seals are on land, it’s
probably because they need
to rest or are feeding pups, and
getting too close will scare them
off, risking injury as they panic-
splash back to sea. Stay quiet,
out of sight and, if you can, stay
downwind so they can’t smell or
hear you, which might provoke
days to six months in advance,
so you may have to wait until
the shortest booking period to
reserve combined destination
tickets. If your destination doesn’t
come under Trainline or Rail
Europe jurisdictions, each country
has national and/or private rail
operators, and the easiest way to
book tickets is with the operator
based where your journey begins.
Book in advance to guarantee
seat reservations and cheaper
fares. For multiple, flexible
journeys, Interrail passes allow
the freedom to travel through
33 countries. raileurope.com
thetrainline.com interrail.eu
MONISHA RAJESH
mothers to abandon their pups.
Needless to say, don’t try and feed
the seals, keep dogs on leads and
take all litter home with you.
As for where to go, consider
the environment carefully before
you set off. Many wild, remote
sites are vulnerable to human
impact because they’re less
managed. They often struggle to
cope with visitor footfall alone,
and that’s before you look at the
impact it has on the seals. Go for
locations where visitor numbers
are self-limiting, such as Lundy, off
the North Devon coast or Skomer
in southwest Wales. Alternatively,
look to sites that have
implemented good mitigation
management, like Donna Nook
on the Lincolnshire coast, where
a designated viewing area is open
from October to December.
For more information,
visit sealresearchtrust.com or
sealalliance.org SUE SAYER
Q // Where are the
best long-haul
destinations for
visually impaired
travellers in 2022?
People are often so focused
on what they can see that they
don’t fully take in what their
other senses are experiencing.
When Traveleyes puts together
an itinerary, it wants somewhere
full of exciting tastes, different
smells, a buzz in the air — and
activities that give a real feeling
of adventure. Groups include
blind and sighted travellers, with
the latter paying reduced rates
as a thank you for guiding and
sharing their sight. Traveleyes
swaps sighted and blind partners
every day, so the blind travellers
experience a more rounded
description of the destination.
For long-haul adventure,
Southeast Asia is unbeatable and
a real sensory treat, while for
some R&R on the beach you can’t
beat Mauritius. One of Traveleyes’
most requested tours is Costa
Rica, a multi-activity trip that
typically includes whitewater
rafting, horse-riding and surfing.
The tour starts from around
£2,999 per person for 11 days,
and includes flights, all activities,
accommodation and a specialised
tour manager.
For 2022, Traveleyes expects
to offer a number of exciting
tours (in a typical year it might
run around 60), from UK trips to
city breaks and adventure travel
overseas. AMAR LATIF
THE EXPERTS
SARAH BARRELL //
ASSOCIATE EDITOR,
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
TRAVELLER (UK)
MONISHA RAJESH //
AUTHOR, AROUND THE
WORLD IN 80 TRAINS
SUE SAYER // SEAL
RESEARCH TRUST
SEALRESEARCHTRUST.COM
AMAR LATIF //FOUNDER,
TRAVELEYES TRAVELEYES-
INTERNATIONAL.COM
May 2021 115
TRAVEL GEEKS

THE INFO

STONEHENGE
MYSTERIES BEHIND THE WILTSHIRE WONDER CONTINUE TO BE SOLVED, INCLUDING NEW
BREAKTHROUGHS CONCERNING THE ORIGINS OF ITS STONES. WE TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT
THE NATION’S MOST FAMOUS PREHISTORIC MONUMENT. WORDS: SARAH BARRELL

IN NUMBERS
SEEING RED

83
The number of stones
remaining at Stonehenge; it THE ‘SLAUGHTER STONE’
originally featured over 160 WASN’T A SITE OF DRUID
bluestones and sarsen stones SACRIFICES, AS THE
VICTORIANS THOUGHT.
IN FACT, THE STONE TAKES
ON A BLOOD-RED HUE
WHEN RAIN REACTS WITH
THE IRON IT CONTAINS
A MOBILE MONUMENT
25 tons Stonehenge’s bluestones originally came from southwest
The weight of the average Wales. It’s now believed they could have been part of a
sarsen stone. The smaller stone circle at Waun Mawn, in the Preseli Hills, before
bluestones, meanwhile, weigh being dismantled and relocated to Salisbury Plain when the
between two and five tons each ancient people of the Preseli region migrated

WREN
REN

In 2020, archaeologists found Research published by

what may be the UK’s largest
prehistoric monument. The
1.2 mile-wide circle of pits
surround the ancient Durrington SOLAR CYCLE
Walls, close to Stonehenge STONEHENGE IS ALIGNED
TO THE MOVEMENTS
OF THE SUN, WITH THE
STONES SET UP TO FRAME
BOTH THE MIDSUMMER
SUNRISE AND THE MID-
inner circle and lessen
WINTER SUNSET
the University of
Salford in 2020
suggests Stonehenge You’ll find the word ‘WREN’
may have been written on one of the sarsen
stones — one of many pieces
designed to amplify of centuries-old graffiti
sounds within its adorning the monoliths. It’s
believed that architect and
Wiltshire native Sir Christopher
exterior ones Wren carved it himself

A timeline of Stonehenge
3500 BC 3400 BC 2500 BC 1915 1986

An early henge is
constructed on Salisbury
Plain, and is thought to
have inspired the later
location of Stonehenge
Waun Mawn stone circle is
built in Wales. It’s thought
to have been dismantled,
transported and rebuilt
as Stonehenge
The iconic stone Barrister Cecil Chubb buys Stonehenge, Avebury
circle is erected. The Stonehenge at auction. and Associated Sites
entire monument is In 1918, he gift s it to the is inscribed on the
constructed in stages over nation, ending centuries of UNESCO World
a period of 1,500 years private ownership Heritage List

STONEHENGE: THE LOST CIRCLE REVEALED FOLLOWS THE DECADE-LONG QUEST TO UNCOVER THE SECRETS OF THE WELSH BLUESTONES, CURRENTLY ON BBC IPLAYER
MORE INFO: BBC.COM; ENGLISH-HERITAGE.ORG.UK

116 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 HOT TOPIC
WHAT WILL SUMMER 2021 LOOK
LIKE FOR TRAVELLERS?
WITH STAYCATIONS BACK ON THE AGENDA FOR SUMMER, A SLOW RETURN TO TRAVEL
LOOKS IMMINENT. BUT WHAT ABOUT OVERSEAS? HERE’S A LOOK AHEAD TO WHAT THE
SUMMER MIGHT HAVE IN STORE FOR INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL. WORDS: SARAH BARRELL
With campsites and self-catering
accommodation set to reopen in
England by 12 April, and hotels
and B&Bs by 17 May, staycations
seem set to dominate travel plans
for the foreseeable future.
In the days following the prime
minister’s announcement that
the ban on non-essential travel
could be lifted in May, subject to
conditions for the government’s
‘roadmap’ out of lockdown being
met, airlines, hotels and travel
companies reported surges in
demand. Optimism is creeping
back, albeit tempered by the
tough reality of remaining travel
restrictions, travel corridors,
quarantine hotels and new
variants of the virus emerging.
What restrictions remain?
Restrictions on international
travel — triple testing of
passengers, mandatory
quarantine hotels for travellers
returning from ‘red list’ countries
with high Covid-19 rates and
10-day mandatory quarantine for
all other travellers — will remain
in place until at least 17 May.
After this, international leisure
travel will be dependent on travel
corridor arrangements, vaccine
passport programmes and
SOURCES: ABTA; BBC; GOV.UK; INTERNATIONAL AIR TRANSPORT
destinations with quarantine-free
access for vaccinated travellers.
ASSOCIATION (IATA); TRAVEL WEEKLY. IMAGES: GETTY
When should I book?
With demand soaring, lockdown
fatigue at a peak and travel
companies needing a lifeline
injection of cash, some people
are choosing to take advantage of
attractive deals on overseas trips,
gambling on restrictions being
eased in time for them to travel.
How should I book?
Pay with a credit card, to gain
protection from Section 75 of the
Consumer Credit Act, and use
I READ MORE ON THIS TOPIC AT NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL
an ATOL-protected package tour
operator, rather than booking the
flights and hotel independently.
Choose an operator with flexible
rebooking terms and a record of
good recent customer service.
Package holidays — which had
waned in popularity — have seen
a recent return to prominence as
purchases are safeguarded by law
if the company goes bust, and if
travel corridor or lockdown rules
preclude, you’ll be offered a trip to
an alternative destination or the
opportunity to claim a full refund.
Airlines, however, only have to
refund you if they cancel a flight
and may continue to operate
even during lockdown. Once
flights resume this summer, it’s
unlikely they’ll be cancelled in
the numbers we saw in 2020.
Rebooking policies have become
more flexible but often have an
additional fee attached, so it’s
worth doing some research.
Quarantines & corridors
The reality of a return to
international travel will very much
depend on which countries the
UK has air corridors with. Most
travellers will delay booking until
this is clear, making last-minute
trips the order of the summer.
Will I need a vaccination?
International leisure travel could
resume with the aid of vaccine
certificates — where those who
want to travel abroad can verify
their inoculations — and through
testing for both inbound and
outbound travellers. The British
government is in talks with the
USA, Singapore and the UN’s
ICAO aviation body about an
international certification system
to ease travel restrictions for
those with Covid-19 vaccinations
— not dissimilar to the yellow
fever vaccine card. These would
likely be available to travellers
after they’ve had their second
dose of the vaccine. All adults in
the UK are slated to get their first
dose of the vaccine by 31 July.
The International Air Transport
Association (IATA) has said it’s
currently in talks with the UK
government about its digital
Covid travel pass, which should
be ready ‘within weeks’.
Hotels & resorts
Most accommodation providers
now offer flexible cancellation
and rebooking terms, but make
sure you triple-check exclusions
before handing over your credit
card. Booking directly rather than
via third-party bookings sites
may make refunds and rebooking
easier to access. So-called deep
cleaning between guest bookings,
contactless check-ins and social
distancing are now established to
varying degrees in most hotels,
self-catering accommodation,
cruise ships and resorts. Some
companies, including cruise
operator Saga, already require
proof of complete vaccination
before travel; others offer tests on
arrival or departure.
DESTINATION
DEVELOPMENTS
GREECE
Greece has formed, as
of 1 April, a ‘vaccine
bubble’ with Israel and
Cyprus, where vaccinated
travellers will be able
to move between the
countries without having
to quarantine.
BALEARIC ISLANDS
The archipelago is set to
become one of the first
places in Spain to trial a
vaccine passport.
SEYCHELLES
This almost entirely
vaccinated nation allows
entry to vaccinated
tourists two weeks after
they’ve had their final jab.
For the latest travel
restrictions and
requirements, visit gov.uk
May 2021 117
 IN THE NEXT ISSUE

Spain
Its coastal charms will always have their allure, but what of Spain’s
interior? In our next issue, we stray from the sands to uncover a
wealth of inland experiences, from hiking trails in the hinterland
to architectural wonders, beguiling cities and literary landscapes

Plus // Anglesey, Chester, Chile, Dijon, Dublin,

Houston, Kyoto, New Zealand, Nigeria, Norfolk, Poland, Yorkshire

june issue
On sale 6 may 2021
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES

For more information on our subscription offer,

see page 32

118 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

TAKE GREAT PHOTOGRAPHS IN THE
MALDIVES
Want to take perfect shots of your island escape? From
the importance of depth to polarising filters, these three
photography tips will help you capture this natural paradise
No destination can conjure up images of
tropical luxury quite like the Maldives — and
the recently opened Ithaafushi - The Private
Island, set in the heart of South Malé Atoll
and spread languidly on the archipelago’s
biggest private island, perfectly captures the
destination’s exclusive atmosphere. National
Geographic Traveller (UK) photographer
Richard James Taylor shares three tips to help
capture every moment in this unique setting.
1. Add depth to landscapes
The resort’s personal concierges are on
hand to organise exclusive excursions and
help guests find secluded, stunning vistas.
To best capture these views, make sure to
create a sense of depth in your photographic
landscapes, drawing the viewer into the
IMAGE: WALDORF ASTORIA
scene from front to back. Including some
foreground interest into your composition
— think rock formations or palm trees
around the edge of the image — will help
create a more dynamic shot. Leading lines
create a similar effect; if out sailing, for
example, featuring the boat jetty or the
prow of one of Ithaafushi’s Princess yachts
or sailboats can help draw the eye out into
the scene.
2. True colours
With their palette of silvery beaches, cyan
lagoons and green fronds, the tropics are
fantastic locations to play with colour. To
capture every hue, try a polarising filter:
it screws on to your lens and helps reduce
reflected light, which can cause glare and
make photos lose contrast and colour
intensity. With uninterrupted views of
the sun setting over the Indian Ocean, the
resort’s 119 all-pool villas — including the
secluded Stella Maris Villa, perched a five-
minute boat ride from the main island
— offer plenty of opportunities to experiment.
3. Under the sea
The resort’s private reef, a sunken garden
of coral formations and colourful marine
life, calls for below-the-waves action. A few
practical tips: test your camera’s underwater
housing in advance; keep the aperture at
To find out more, visit waldorfastoriamaldives.com or call +960 4 000300
PARTNER CONTENT FOR WALDORF ASTORIA
around f8 to ensure the image is sharp; and
maintain the ISO as low as possible to reduce
noise. Clear, calm water is crucial, as is good
light, so stay close to the surface and go when
the sun is at its strongest — typically in the
early afternoon. Ithaafushi’s dive centre
can advise you on when conditions are best
and take you to every must-vist spot.
ABOVE: An aerial shot of the sun setting over
Ithaafushi - The Private Island
Essentials
Guests can be escorted from Malé’s Velana
International Airport to Waldorf Astoria Maldives
Ithaafushi via a 40-minute ride on a yacht or a
15-minute seaplane flight. Facilities include 11
dining venues, a world-class spa and the Waldorf
Astoria Young Discovery Park for children.
JOURNEYS WITH A PURPOSE
ALREADY INCREASINGLY POPULAR WITH SOLO AND NON-RELIGIOUS TRAVELLERS,
PILGRIM ROUTES OFFER A CHANCE TO FIND INNER PEACE AND RECONNECT WITH
THE WORLD POST-COVID. WORDS: KERRY WALKER
L
ike many pilgrims who walk
the Camino de Santiago
network of pilgrim’s routes,
Sherly Cho had no obvious
religious motivation. Back in 2018,
she took a five-week hiatus from
her Korean-Swiss cookery school
in Zurich, ready for a challenge.
But Sherly never anticipated
that the 500-mile pilgrimage
from St Jean Pied de Port, in the
French Pyrenees, to Santiago de
Compostela, in Galicia, northwest
Spain, would inspire major
changes in her life.
The year before Covid-19
slammed the brakes on
international travel, the Camino
de Santiago witnessed record
pilgrim numbers. According to
the Cathedral of Santiago de
Compostela’s Pilgrims Reception
Office, 347,578 hikers received
their Compostela certificate in
2019, a year-on-year increase
of 6%. Its records also showed
that a growing number were solo
pilgrims, like Sherly, and that
only 40% of all pilgrims claimed
religion was their sole motivation.
“Galicia’s towns are special,
but you wouldn’t give them a
second look unless you arrived
on foot,” says Sherly. She was
even more impressed by her
natural surroundings, despite
enduring a baptism of fire along
the way, involving blisters, bed
bugs and four days of solid rain.
“I’ll never forget the divine-
smelling eucalyptus forests and
the remote, desert-like mesetas
[plateaus], where there’s nothing
but open horizons, sand and the
sound of your own thoughts and
footsteps,” she notes.
More travellers than ever are
embarking on pilgrimages, which
offer a unique way to explore
and experience a destination.
Between 2016 and 2019, sales
for all Camino de Santiago
routes soared. The increase
was especially dramatic for the
Caminho Português (pilgrimage
routes starting in Portugal),
120 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
which skyrocketed by almost
100%. Lesser-known routes are
becoming increasingly popular,
such as Camino Invierno; this off-
the-beaten-track alternative for
solitude seekers arriving in late
autumn and winter takes in many
of Spain’s romanesque chapels
and vineyards.
Tim Williamson, from UK travel
company Responsible Travel,
believes pilgrimage holidays will
boom in a post-Covid world, as
people move away from short-
haul city breaks towards fewer
flights and longer trips with a
sense of purpose.
“In recent years, our pilgrimage
bookings have risen markedly,”
says Tim. “They’re very
popular with solo travellers,
but increasingly families
are embarking on them too.
Lockdown has shown us that
community is important; people
want space but miss human
connection. Pilgrimages tick
many of these boxes.”
Beyond offering walking
pilgrimages, such as the 141-mile
Pilgrims’ Way, from Winchester
to Canterbury, Responsible
Travel deviates from the norm,
widening the focus with the
likes of kayaking and self-guided
cycling trips along the Camino
de Santiago.
“Many people still consider a
pilgrimage to be an epic, solitary
journey — and, of course, it can
be,” says Tim. “But ultimately
pilgrimages are personal.
For some, they’re spiritual or
religious; others are drawn to the
history and culture. They can also
help you switch off and reconnect
with nature. Even a few days can
be rewarding and refreshing.”
Bookings for traditional
routes also look set to soar in
2021. “We’re expecting a surge in
bookings for this year’s Xacobeo,
or Holy Year, when the Feast of St
James (25 July) falls on a Sunday,
which last occurred in 2010,”
says Mary Lawless, at self-guided
walking holiday specialist Macs
Adventure. “Consequently,
pilgrims who walk the Camino will
be able to enter the cathedral by
the ‘Holy Door’. And those who
visit the apostle’s tomb will obtain
plenary indulgence: the complete
forgiveness of all sins.”
Natural remedy
Choosing a journey immersed
in nature — an increasingly
common reason cited for taking
up a pilgrimage — would have
resonated with early Celtic saints
of the fifth and sixth centuries,
such as St David. In the Middle
Ages, the eponymous Welsh city
was a pilgrimage destination
rivalling Spain’s Santiago.
The Shrine of St David, in its
resplendent medieval cathedral,
is the climax of a new week-long
pilgrimage trail for 2021, forging
the Celtic connection between
Ireland and Wales as it treads in
saintly footsteps along the wave-
hammered shores of County
Wexford and Pembrokeshire.
“On these coasts, you still
feel the spiritual connection
with the living landscape,” says
Iain Tweedale, a guide with
both Journeying and Guided
Pilgrimage who’ll be leading this
new tour. “It’s what the Celts
called a ‘thin place’, where the
gap between heaven and earth is
small,” he says. “After several days
walking, when the mind calms,
you observe your surroundings
more keenly, seeing simple things
like rocks, flowers and birds as
if for the first time. The outer
journey from place to place
becomes an inner journey from
head to heart.”
If, as Iain suggests, the slow
pace of coastal pilgrimage
lets us re-encounter a rhythm
we’ve lost — where the tides
IMAGE: 4CORNERS
and seasons, not the clock,
become our reference points
— can pilgrimage help us heal
and provide perspective in a
post-pandemic world?
TOP 10
PILGRIMAGE ROUTES
JAPAN: KUMANO KODŌ
This network of ancient trails dives into
the remote, densely forested, shrine-
topped mountains of the Kii Peninsula,
Japan’s spiritual heartland.

UK, FRANCE & ITALY: VIA FRANCIGENA

A 1,200-mile route connecting
Canterbury to Rome via France, the
Swiss Alps and the Italian Apennines,
passing churches and shrines devoted
to St Francis. viefrancigene.org

SRI LANKA: ADAM’S PEAK

In Sri Lanka’s Central Highlands, this
conical, 7,360ft-high peak is home to
a footprint that’s said to belong to
— faith depending — Adam, Buddha
or Shiva.

PORTUGAL & SPAIN:

CAMINHO PORTUGUÊS
The wild Atlantic coast unravels
before you on this uncrowded trail
from Lisbon (380 miles) or Porto (140
miles) to Santiago de Compostela.
caminhoportosantiago.com

TIBET: MOUNT KAILASH

This three-day, 32-mile circuit of sacred
21,778ft Mount Kailash in Tibet is a holy
ritual said to bring good fortune.

FRANCE: LOURDES
The 92-mile Piemont Route connects
St-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Lourdes, a
holy pilgrimage site since 1858, when
Bernadette Soubirous claimed to have
witnessed 18 apparitions of the Virgin
Mary. lourdes-france.org

SCOTLAND: ST MAGNUS WAY

The wide-open horizons, space and
silence of Orkney’s coastline enthrall on
this 58-mile route honouring the island’s
patron saint. stmagnusway.com

THE MIDDLE EAST: ABRAHAM’S PATH

This epic 1,243-mile route starts in
Harran, Turkey, where God is said
to have called upon Abraham to
‘go forth’, and rambles on through
Egypt, Palestine, Israel and Jordan.
abrahampath.org

GERMANY: VIA COLONIENSIS

Grand abbeys and palaces punctuate
this 152-mile trail, uniting the former
Roman cities of Cologne and Trier,
where fourth-century St Peter’s
Cathedral is a highlight.

IRELAND: ST FINBARR’S WAY

Traversing three mountain ranges,
this 22-mile pilgrimage begins at the
Top of the Rock in Dromdaleague,
County Cork, where sixth-century
monk St Finbarr once preached.
pilgrimpath.ie

May 2021 121

PARTNER CONTENT FOR DISCOVER QATAR
TAKE AN EXPEDITION CRUISE AROUND THE COAST OF
QATAR
As well as the world’s largest congregation of whale sharks, this coastal journey takes in
desolate islands, ancient cities and sand dunes that slope down to the sea
Qatar’s sun-kissed coastline guards some of
the country’s lesser-known natural, cultural
and historical treasures. Set to start in 2022,
the new Whale Sharks of Qatar cruise,
Discover Qatar’s first expedition cruise,
will offer the chance to experience many
of them. The expedition cruise ship and its
fleet of Zodiac rigid inflatable vessels will
take travellers to some of the country’s most
secluded corners, from shallow shorelines to
remote coastal areas.
Inland Sea
Picture silvery crescents of sand that
dissolve into turquoise waters. Welcome to
Khor Al Udaid — or the Inland Sea, as it’s
also known — one of only three places on the
planet where the sea cuts deep into the heart
of a desert. As well as whale sharks, the site
is a safe haven for a variety of creatures;
look out for Arabian gazelles, dolphins, sea
turtles and even a dugong or two. On land,
the dunes are a playground for adrenalin
junkies who drive through the rolling sands
in 4x4 vehicles.
Shura Awa Island
The Arabian gulf is primed for Robinson
Crusoe moments, and that’s just what’s
on offer on Shura Awa Island, a small and
largely untouched spot that’s perfect for
those wishing to have a brush with nature.
Once ashore, relax on its beaches or take
a dip in crystal-clear waters. Visitors may
also have the chance to go snorkelling in
the surrounding reefs, which are alive with
corals and marine life.
Mangroves
Qatar is home to beautiful white mangroves,
including pockets of saltwater forest on the
northeast coast. The area’s unique ecosystem
attracts migratory birds, such as herons and
flamingos, while the roots beneath the water
are home to a range of wildlife species. This
expanse of greenery is best explored up close,
weaving nimbly on Zodiacs through the half-
submerged trees and shrubs.
Zekreet &
East-West/West-East
For a different perspective on Qatar’s art
and landscapes, venture to the north of the
country for the geological formations in the
Zekreet Peninsula, part of the UNESCO-
listed Al Reem Biosphere Reserve. Here,
the wind has carved soft sedimentary rock
into a series of pillars and mushroom-like
limestone sculptures. Further inland is US
artist Richard Serra’s East-West/West-East,
an installation comprising four gigantic
steel monoliths rising above desert cliffs.
To find out more, visit discoverqatar.qa/whale-sharks-of-qatar
Al Zubarah
Al Zubarah Fort rises, mirage-like, from a
sea of sand. It’s part of the country’s only
UNESCO World Heritage Site, Al Zubarah,
a walled coastal town that was a major
trading and pearling hub, with connections
stretching as far afield as Europe and
Western Asia. The fort, ruined town and
140-acre archaeological site are one of the
best-preserved examples of an 18th- and
19th-century settlement in the region,
providing a glimpse into the lives of local
communities in a bygone era.
ABOVE, FROM LEFT: Skyline of Doha, the capital of
Qatar; as part of the cruise itinerary, travellers will
likely meet the largest congregation of whale sharks
Essentials
Discover Qatar’s eight- or 11-night Whale Sharks of
Qatar expedition cruise departs from Doha, with
IMAGES: GETTY; MARIUS DOBILAS
cabins expected to be from $5,295 (£3,812) per
person. Facilities include a spa, two restaurants, a
fitness centre and theatre room.
 PILGRIMAGES

“Covid has forced us to

stop, think and question life’s
assumptions,” says Iain. “As
we emerge from lockdown,
pilgrimage is more relevant than
ever, allowing us to take stock and
consider our path. Some will go
to mourn or rethink relationships.
Others will give thanks for pulling
through. Modern-day pilgrimage
lets you explore your spiritual
side without necessarily being
religious. We enter into a union
with nature as we walk. And this
newfound love and appreciation
makes us want to protect it. So
perhaps pilgrimage can prepare
us for tackling climate change, the
greatest challenge of our times,
once Covid has passed.”
So, just who is the modern
pilgrim and what motivates him or
her? According to a survey by the
British Pilgrimage Trust, around
half the respondents cited either
emotional wellbeing, connecting
with nature, spirituality or cultural
heritage as their main motivation.
Just 13% quoted religious
observance — and if many
pilgrimages today are secular,
what differentiates each of these
journeys from a very long walk?
“There’s usually a reason
for pilgrimage — resolving an
issue, bringing something in,
letting something go,” says Guy
Hayward, co-founder of the British
Pilgrimage Trust and co-author of
guidebook Britain’s Pilgrim Places.
He believes that at the heart
of true pilgrimage is intention,
determined by your heart and “Since time immemorial, without material things; stuff “There’s immense unresolved,
activated by your feet. “There’s pilgrimage has offered a physical just weighs you down. Now I’m unsupported grief because of the
nothing intrinsically religious or path with a clear destination, downsizing my home; decluttering epidemic,” says Dee Dyas, director
secular about connecting with enabling us to structure our search my life.” of the University of York’s Centre
your deepest needs,” he says. for inner direction in times of for Pilgrimage Studies and author
“The word ‘holy’ comes from change and crisis,” says Guy. One step beyond of The Dynamics of Pilgrimage.
the Old English ‘halig’, meaning It can also bring clarity, with For many people, pilgrimage is “People are desperate; they need
‘bringing health’. A holy place can many pilgrims, including Sherly about making an ‘investment’, to process their lives, find meaning
be an ancient yew or a hilltop, a Cho, reporting a spiritual or not necessarily in the physical or in special places, create positive
synagogue or a stone circle.” emotional epiphany, with the monetary sense, but rather being memories, say their goodbyes.
Guy believes Britain has always journey acting as a powerful, life- willing to open up to change and And pilgrimage doesn’t have to
been a “land of quest”, with many changing switch. “Going alone was any consequences that entails. involve a long walk — it’s far more
pilgrimage places on our doorsteps a good choice,” Sherly says of her Covid-19 has presented challenges multifaceted than that. Humans
in need of rediscovering. He says solo exploration of the Camino de and restrictions the likes of which are hard-wired to respond
new routes could be established Santiago. “I made friends for life. few of us will have faced before. to special places and look to
in places like Scotland’s Whithorn We shared everything: a dorm, As a result, many us will be seeking something bigger than themselves.
Way, or St Alkelda’s Way in the an apple, our innermost feelings. journeys that might offer change There are ‘accidental pilgrims’
IMAGES: GETTY; TIM BIRD

Yorkshire Dales. I realised that I could make do and therapeutic rewards. who tick the non-religious box

In a frantic digital age, where we’re often disengaged from our environment, the elements and
our truest selves, the slow pace of pilgrimage and the physical and mental space it allows can
help us reflect, realign our goals and press the reset button

May 2021 123

PILGRIMAGES
but subsequently find spiritual
enlightenment — even God.
Pilgrimage is a metaphor for
life: uniting the inner and
outer journeys.”
At its most fundamental,
pilgrimage has changed little
since the Middle Ages, when
Chaucer wrote The Canterbury
Tales, about a group of pilgrims
travelling to the shrine of St
Thomas Becket — a work that has
come to epitomise the practice.
“Within three years of Becket’s
violent death [in 1170], 700
miracles had been attributed
to him, and pilgrims flocked to
Canterbury to worship at his
tomb,” says Naomi Speakman,
curator of the British Museum’s
2021 exhibition Thomas Becket:
Murder And The Making Of A
Saint (22 April to 22 August). “The
pilgrimage to Canterbury is at the
124 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
heart of our exhibition, and The
Canterbury Tales still resonates
with modern audiences.”
Thomas Becket wasn’t the only
saint to leaf an indelible imprint
on Britain’s landscapes, forging
paths for future pilgrims. New for
2021, The Northern Saints Trails
will revive six ancient routes
across the North East, paying
homage to Northern saints like St
Cuthbert, St Aidan and St Hilda.
“Pilgrims would have
approached Durham from
different directions in medieval
times; these trails reflect this,”
says route coordinator David
Pott. “The major motivation back
then was seeking healing. That’s
often true today, but in a different
way. It’s no coincidence many
people go on a pilgrimage after a
life crisis. I believe in the maxim
attributed to Saint Augustine:
solvitur ambulando (‘it is solved LEFT: Nachisan Seiganto-
by walking’).” ji Temple and the Nachi
With their crowds and extreme Falls, on the Kumano
Kodō pilgrim trail
outpourings of faith, pilgrimages in
network
many parts of the world can seem
PREVIOUS PAGE, FROM
like the antithesis of walks for quiet TOP: Hikers in the
contemplation. Take Kumbh Mela, Tibet Autonomous
the world’s largest pilgrimage Region on a kora (a
gathering; it’s celebrated in the type of pilgrimage),
form of a 12-year cycle at four circumambulating Mount
spots along the Ganges, where 120 Kailash, sacred to Bon,
million Hindus take to the sacred Buddhism, Hinduism
and Jainism; an official
waters, praying for emancipation
stamp for St Olav
from the cycle of rebirth. In Saudi
Waterway, a coast-
Arabia, the hajj sees 2.5 million hugging pilgrim’s
Muslim pilgrims descend upon the trail linking Finland
Great Mosque of Mecca. and Sweden
Israel is welcoming more
pilgrims than ever: a record
4.5 million arrived in 2019. And for
many, it’s exactly these immense
numbers, the mass of humanity,
that’s the point of pilgrimage.
If ‘intention’ is the start and
‘investment’ the heart of every
pilgrimage, then ‘gratitude’ is
the end reward: for life and good
health, for nature and its wonders.
It was for the latter that, in 2019,
photographer Tim Bird decided to
cycle the recently opened St Olav
Waterway, a coast-hugging pilgrim
trail linking Finland and Sweden.
“The pilgrimage was meditative
and spiritual, but not in a
prescribed religious way,” says
Tim. “I enjoyed the remote nature,
the physical replenishment
after the long Finnish winter.
The headwinds and downpours
were challenging, but the wildlife
was remarkable: migratory birds,
deer, hares and the occasional elk
swimming island to island. Coming
across a newly arrived flock of
MORE INFO:
cranes was a delight.” spain.info/en/discover-
In a frantic digital age, where spain/xacobeo-camino-
we’re often disengaged from our santiago
environment, the elements and macsadventure.com
our truest selves, the slow pace of responsibletravel.com
pilgrimage and the physical and journeying.co.uk
guidedpilgrimage.co.uk
mental space it allows can help us
britishpilgrimage.org
reflect, realign our goals and press
pilgrimagestudies.ac.uk
the reset button. As we face the britishmuseum.org
long post-crisis path ahead, we northernsaints.com
might see ourselves as pilgrims in a stolavwaterway.com
brave new world, where nothing is
more powerful or necessary than FURTHER READING:
the simple act of giving thanks Britain’s Pilgrim Places,
and putting one foot in front of by Guy Hayward and
Nick Mayhew-Smith. RRP:
another. And, as Sherly Cho says,
£19.99
it’s as straightforward as that.
(Lifestyle Press)
IMAGE: GETTY
“I got up at 6am and walked eight The Dynamics of
hours a day,” she noted. “Hiking Pilgrimage, by Dee Dyas.
the Camino was the happiest and RRP: £33
healthiest I have ever felt.” (Routledge ebook)
 What drives your
EXPLORING SPIRIT?
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANINGAAQ R. CARLSEN
EVENTS

FOOD FESTIVAL
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126 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 EVENTS

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May 2021 127

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Your magazine came to me as a Valentine’s
gift this year and it’s been great in helping
me escape the screen life we fi nd ourselves
in these days. It was fantastic to dive into
the images and articles — they inspired me
to go outdoors. One particular article about
friluft sliv (Jan/Feb 2021) caught my attention
as it opened my eyes to the wonders of
nature. I live in Newcastle and Northern
England offers an array of hikes and walks
and this article helped encourage my inner
sloth to get out there. I’ve always enjoyed
hiking yet found it hard to motivate myself,
but the reminder of the perspective and
purpose it gives has encouraged me to reach
for those hiking boots once again. Thank
you! HANNAH BROWN
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An island escape
I’d never purchased National Geographic
Traveller before, but was intrigued by the
cover of your March 2021 issue, which
mentioned Canada and the Isle of Skye,
two places I plan to visit with my daughter.
Connor McGovern’s feature about the Isle of
Skye, ‘Of Mist and Myth’, evoked thoughts
of still, deep loch waters full of brooding,
mythical creatures. The photographs were
deep and moody, which really spoke to my
sense of adventure. My daughter and I have
now booked to stay in August.
REBECCA STEVENS
Cheers to that
While reading Jessica Vincent’s wonderful
article about Bankso (March 2021), I couldn’t
help but remember a great trip my two
friends and I had there a few years back. On
the way to the summit of Mount Vihren in
the Pirin Mountains, one friend suggested
we take a shortcut, which ended up beside a
small waterfall. Stuck at the top for several
hours before we plucked up the courage
to come back down, we appreciated the
fantastic view all the way down the valley to
Bansko. The ice-cold Bulgarian beers that
greeted our descent, however, made it all
worthwhile. GARY MARSHALL
May 2021 129
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130 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
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