AFV Modeller - 2013 11-12

Issue 73 cover_Issue 26 cover 10/10/2013 11:19 Page 1
THE VERY BEST IN SCALE ARMOUR MODELLING
73
November / Dec 2013
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November / Decemberr 2013
AFV Modeller
Objective
Panzer IV Ausf.G Modelled by Markus Eriksson
AFV-73 Nov Dec 2013_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/10/2013 17:32 Page 222
CONTENTS
2 Objective Kharkov
Markus Eriksson describes his Panzer IV Ausf.G based on the Dragon kit.
10 M-51 Isherman
The Academy Super Sherman modelled by Dave Oliver
18 DIY Photoetch
Chris Meddings of Inside the Armour explains how to
design your own photoetched parts
20 “In der Falle” Part One

Robert Doepp describes how he built his 1:24 vignette
with the Tasca Zündapp KS 750m
28 Target Tortoise Part Two

The Editor’s interpretation of the Meng A-39 Tortoise concludes
with a look at the painting techniques.
38 Approach to Berlin
Radek Pituch describes his late War JS II and crew
46 Keeping Track
More new releases
56 Operation Frühlingserwachen - another defeat in the East

Franck Bazin creates an Image of Germany’s desperate struggle during
the closing stages of the War
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1
Objective
Panzer IV Ausf.G Modelled by Markus Eriksson
2
It seems like most modellers building German

WWII armor prefer the more powerful Tigers or the
Panther over the more common Panzer IV, but I
was very pleased when Dragon announced they
were to release kits of all the Panzer IV variants. I
prefer the versions with the longer guns and my
interest with the 1943 Kharkov battles made the
Ausf. G an obvious choice for me when it was
released a couple of years ago. I had long
considered the idea of a model of a white-washed
Panzer Grey vehicle fighting in and around the city
of Kharkov and furthermore it would offer me a
chance to try the hairspray method.
When plan a new project I search for unique

details which would make the model stand out
and this approach also opens possibilities for a
personal touch to the completed model. The
inspiration for me to start this project was a
collection of images of a Panzer IV I found on the
web site Missing Links, showing a Das Reich
Division vehicle from Kharkov. The most
prominent feature on this tank was the mounting
of extended Winterketten tracks on the left side,
with ordinary tracks on the right. There are other
details on this vehicle not seen elsewhere, and the
fact that Echelon had released decals for this
particular vehicle endorsed my choice of subject.
3
Construction process set and I finally changed to the Voyager made this with a piece of brass tube and
versions before I damaged my mental weld seams from Magic Sculp. Speaking of
Even though the Dragon Smart Kit is very health. Apart from the fenders and tool which these were the only weld seams
detailed, I couldn’t resist the addition of clamps, the Griffon set was pretty good added on the whole model - a testament to
some extras, like photo etched (PE) details and great value for the amount of parts the quality of the kit.
and a turned aluminium gun barrel. The included. I found the thin brass tubes for
Dragon kit is superbly moulded and the fit gun cleaning rods to be excellent, and I used two different brands of tracks;
is great. Most areas are very fine, to the these added a nice touch to the completed Friumodelisimo and Model Kasten. The
point of wondering how they can even model. I used turned gun barrels for both reason for this is simply because I had the
mould these details and you really need to the MG34’s and main gun, as these create Model Kasten ones in my vault and these
think twice before you change parts for an unbeatable sense of scale and detail are detailed on both sides, which the
aftermarket replacements. I used PE from compared to the styrene kit parts. The Friumodelisimo aren’t. Unfortunately, the
the Chinese company Griffon, which same goes for the main gun, which even Model Kasten tracks are very delicate and I
includes a vast number of parts for several has the rifling, and I also replaced the kit suggest anyone considering using them, to
versions of the Panzer IV G. A model does antenna with a turned brass version. paint them with an acrylic primer, so as to
not automatically become better the more not damage the plastic with stronger paint
PE you use so I was selective in which The vehicle I had decided to represent thinners. If you are building on a deadline or
parts I used. One example is the fenders, displayed a number of field modifications, are just generally eager, they also take
and after trying a number of times with the enabling me to give it a personal touch. more than twice the time to construct
PE fenders I decided to use the original kit One of these is a plank attached to the rear compared with the Friumodelisimo type.
fenders. In the end I only used the front armour plate, I took a piece of plasticard
mudflaps from the PE set, to be able to and scribed it to represent wood grain, and Painting
have them hinged up, to let the it was fitted with Calibre 35 bolts. Another
Painting begins with a coat of primer, and I
Winterketten run smoothly. prominent detail on this tank was a small
used a black spray can from the Games
The usually difficult to construct German fitting on the Commander’s cupola,
Workshop Citadel range to create a
tool clamps, were impossible with this PE probably for mounting a machine gun. I
protective layer for the upcoming washes
4
and filters. I use black primer for its

coverage and pre-shading qualities and if
you miss a hard to reach section, you
don’t have an obvious grey or white spot
glaring at you.
I chose to paint the base colour with

Tamiya paints, as I think they are the most
suitable for airbrushing. The first mix
contained 85% XF-63 German grey; 10%
XF-18 Medium Blue, and 5% XF-15 Flat
Flesh, to create a warm dirty tone. I also
added a dribble of X-22 Clear to get a bit
of metallic feeling to the model. I
deliberately avoided covering everything,
keeping the heavier coverage to the
middle of the panels and fading towards
the edges, and letting the black primer
create depth.
A second layer was then airbrushed, this
time with more XF-15 Flat Flesh added for
highlights; around 30% to the base mix.
Keeping the paint thin, this is repeated a
few times until the mix is 50% base colour
and 50% XF15 Flat Flesh. I used the same
principle for the road wheels, but made a
mask from plasticard to conceal the
rubber rims, thereby saving a lot of time.
Now the model starts to resemble a real

tank, but to add further depth and bring
out the details even more, I drybrushed all
areas. I prefer to drybrush with Humbrol
enamels, as they don’t dry as quickly as
acrylics do. I used a 50/50 mix of 147 Matt
light grey and 61 Matt flesh. I wiped off the
excess paint on a cloth until the brush
leaves almost no trace of paint, and the
worked over the model section by section.
5
I then left it to dry out completely for a with the hairspray method, I searched the whitewash from Sin Industries. This filter
couple of days before the next step – filters. Internet and read all facts. Accordingly creates a matt finish over the clear varnish,
several thin hairspray layers were applied and was applied in two layers using a size
I choose to make the first filter with 5% and to avoid getting a gritty result, I used 5 brush.
Prussian blue oil paint and 95% Humbrol my airbrush for the application. Tamiya XF-
thinner, and it was applied with a No 5 2 White was then applied in thin layers over After this had dried I started with the dark
brush. This step calls for some quick the model. I wanted a washed out kind of washes. A overall wash of Winsor &
working, as you need to cover the whole faded look, and to achieve this I was Newton Raw Umber and Ivory Black
model before the filter dries or you might meticulous with applying quite a random thinned with White Spirit was applied, to
end up with ugly drying marks. After drying thickness. I found it best to thin this paint bring out the details. I added more black
completely; I sealed the work so far by with tap water, as acrylic thinner might paint around hatches and shadow areas,
airbrushing a layer of Tamiya X-22 Clear; dissolve the underlying layers, and it is and more brown on the lighter areas. To
protecting it from further painting steps and easier to remove the white paint if you only control the result, this work should be done
also to assist the application of decals. use water. in several steps. The final step was a pure
Out came the aforementioned Echelon The areas I wanted to remove the white black pin wash over the darkest parts of
decals, and in my opinion these are the paint were moistened and after half a the model. To represent worn paint, the
best waterslides on the market. They are minute I started scrubbing the paint with ‘dot technique’ works best for me. This is
thin and the risk of silvering is minimal. I different sized brushes working in small when you cover the whole model with dots
started by adding Humbrol decal fix to the sections at a time. To create an even more of different coloured oil paint, blended with
working area, applied the decal then an battered appearance I drybrushed selected the addition of white spirit.
additional swipe of decal fix was added to details with Humbrol 67 Panzer Grey. Even
make the decal blend into the model. though these colours don’t fully match with Now it was time to give the model more life
When all decals were fixed, another spray those already applied, they do help in with chipping and scratches. I used fine
of X-22 was added to seal them and hide breaking up the uniformity. The more brushes and I also use a sponge for the
any decal edge. nuances the better! This was once again more irregular undefined chipping. To keep
sealed with a thin layer of varnish. Time for randomness in the chipping, I turn the
Finally I got to the bit I had been brooding the last filter to harmonise the whitewash model around frequently. I prefer to use
over since the start of this project: Painting with the underlying colours, and this was Vallejo acrylics for painting details, chipping
the whitewash. Without any experience done with a ready mixed filter for and such, and used 70822 German
6
Camouflage Black Brown and 70950 Black

for the chips and scratches. To further
enhance the chipping I added some rust
streaks, which gives the tank an aged
appearance.
It was now time for detailing. I started with

a layer of Cast-a-coat to texture the
exhaust system and then by masking it off.
A mix of Tamiya XF-9 Hull Red and XF-1
Black was airbrushed on. A Vallejo mix of
70856 Light orange, 70822 German
Camouflage Black Brown and 70817
Scarlet was then stippled on with an old
brush. Another layer with 70856 Light
Orange added was added to lighten the
rust. I also used the dot technique but this
time with Naples Yellow, Burnt Sienna and
Burnt Umber. A thin hairspray layer was
then added for the latter part of weathering
process. This was covered with a coat of
the original Panzer Grey mix, and the
chipping was then done the same way as
with the whitewash, but with much more
paint removed. This was sealed with a
Dullcoat layer. A wash of W&N Raw Umber
picked up the details; followed by a thin
layer of Production P023 Light Rust pigment
set with Humbrol thinner. Lastly I added
some soot to and around the exit pipe.
I wanted the wooden plank on the rear

armour plate to stand out and replicate old
unpainted wood. This was achieved with a
Vallejo base mix of 70% 70864 U.S Field
Drab and 30% 70822 German Camouflage
Black Brown. The graining was brought out
with pure 70822 German Camouflage Black
7
Brown and a W&N Raw Umber wash. After The final parts to paint were the tracks and
some thought; I decided I wanted to have As previously mentioned, I wanted the tank spare track links. They received a base
the plank as if it had originally been painted to look as it really ‘had been around’, and coat of 50/50 Tamiya XF-1 Black and XF-9
in the original Panzer Grey, and used the to achieve this I started mixing mud from Hull Red. This was followed by a wash of
hairspray method once again, and added MIG Production acrylic resin, fine sand, W&N Raw Umber to bring out the detailing.
extra chipping with Vallejo 70819 Iraqi plaster and different MIG Production Again, I used grinded graphite for the
Sand. pigments; P034 Russian Earth, P033 Dark recently worn areas, applied with the
Mud and P026 Concrete. This goo was rubber tipped brush. The highest highlights
All tools originally painted German Grey applied with a scrap brush to exposed received a light touch of a ‘graphite paper’
was painted with Humbrol 32 Light Grey, to parts around the drive train. When this was used in carpeting industries. The spare
make them stand out from the Grey dry, I stippled the same parts with a lighter track links did obviously not receive this
background. shade of the mix. On the lower parts I graphite treatment, but instead an
Tools with metallic finish were painted with added a rather thick wash of W&N Raw application of MIG Production P024 Light
Vallejo 70864 Oily steel, followed by a coat Umber oils to represent moist mud. These rust and P025 Standard rust.
of powdered graphite applied with a rubber steps were repeated a few times until I
tipped brush to give them a slight sheen. was satisfied with the overall effect. To The figures
The tools then received a wash of W&N further enhance the illusion of a well used For me, no tank model is complete without
Lamp Black to further accentuate the tank, I decided to add oil spills on the at least one or two figures or two, as they
details. engine deck and at certain greasing give ‘life’ to the model. Therefore I chose to
Wooden parts were painted with 60% nipples. This was done with the rather add two interacting figures to this model,
70819 Iraqi Sand and 40% 70873 U.S field unusual mix of 70% Tamiya X-19 Smoke, using a stock Alpine figure and one
drab, and the graining with W&N Burnt 10% Humbrol 33 and 20% W&N Raw converted Takahashi figure, from which
Umber. umber, thinned with Humbrol thinner and only the torso was used, together with a
The same techniques were used to polish applied in several successive layers. Hornet head. The head on the Alpine figure
the sprockets and other areas of wear. was also replaced with a Hornet one, as
8
these have a little more character to tell the these weather conditions. The dirt is glued it on top of the grass. Another layer
story better. comprised of filler mixed with fine sand, of Acrylic Resin and bicarbonate was
Skin tones were painted with Winsor & white glue, static grass, and dark brown applied to build up a natural shape, before I
Newton oils, using a combination of Naples acrylic paint. applied a layer of gloss clear varnish to get
Yellow, Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber and The grass is Plumber’s hemp seal, which is the icy effect. The old abandoned plough is
Titanium White. All other areas were cut to appropriate lengths and white glued scratch built from plasticard and brass, and
painted with Vallejo acrylics. Vallejo paints in place to resemble flattened remains of painted in the same manner as any tank
are very well suited for painting clothes and last year’s grass. I then airbrushed the model.
garments, as it can be extensively thinned grass with different Tamiya acrylics. A wash
with water. For the SS runes and other with W&N Raw Umber oil paint was added This has been a very interesting project for
insignia; I used decals from Verlinden and to strengthen the nuances, followed by me, trying out quite a few new techniques
Archer Dry Transfers. drybrushing with light browns and beige that I have wanted to try for a long time.
Vallejo paints. The thawing snow was made The hairspray method proved to be highly
The base by pouring Mig Productions Acrylic Resin effective and time-saving and it is definitely
To enhance the feeling of a cold late winter onto a flat surface, followed by layer of not the last Panzer IV I will build!
scene created a small base depicting bicarbonate of soda. When dry, I super
9
DAVE OLIVER MODELS

ACADEMY’S 1:35 M51 ISRAELI SUPER SHERMAN
10
The M51 Isherman was the result of acquitted itself well against much marks or ‘phases’ of the M51. The
continued development of Israel’s more modern armour during the 6 Phase 2 version seemed most
fleet of M4 Shermans to counter the day war of 1967. Nevertheless, the common during the six day war, but
increasingly modern Soviet armour Israeli Defence Forces suffered some having said that, the IDF seemed to
used by the Syrian and Egyptian of the highest casualties during modify many of the tanks in a rather
Armed forces. Fitted with 105mm clashes on the Golan Heights, which random manner, with many different
gun, requiring a heavily modified is where this diorama is set, with one stowage configurations often used on
turret to accommodate the breach unit losing 24 of its 26 vehicles. different phases. One surprise was
and a muzzle brake to decrease the Having bought the Academy kit at a the appearance of many of the
recoil. Other modifications comprised reasonable price and sourced the crews, who often wore beards and
of an uprated Cummins Diesel engine very comprehensive Eduard photo relatively long hair, not the usual
and HVSS suspension. All in all, it’s etch set. I started researching the regulation army short back and sides!
an impressive looking vehicle which build. There were several different
11
The first thing that struck me upon starting the build was the rather unrealistic cast texture on the hull, The engine deck required some modification in
this was sanded down to a greater degree with a few areas left around some of details on the turret and order to represent a Phase 2 tank. The exhaust
hull. The pronounced weld around the rear of the turret was remodelled with milliput . A Dremel drill was housing was deleted and photo-etch engine
then used to add scuffs and gouges to the surface, then Mr Surfacer was stippled over the whole tank in louvers were added. Weld marks were made
a random fashion, while some areas were smoothed off with thinners to form a contrast. using Andrea Sculpt, while the brace for the gun
and brackets were scratch build from Evergreen
styrene, replacing the kit item which was incorrect
for this version.
The mantlet cover for the gun would not sit flush with the turret, so this was padded out with Andrea Miliput weld beads were added to the muzzle
Sculpt, thereby providing a much better fit, and a more realistic look to the canvas. break. Unfortunately when it was offered up to the
turret, I realised the mantle was the wrong way up!
12
HULL AND TURRET
The photoetch gives the kit’s .50cal the

added detail and finesse it needs
The bead holding the mantle cover in

place was replaced by lead wire while
the cleats holding this in place were
re-modelled with lead foil. P.E. details
such as the smoke dispensers and
the antenna harness were then
added.
The side skirts were thinned down in

random areas, again with a Dremel,
the plastic being gently heated and
pushed out of shape with a round
scalpel handle to simulate wear and
tear.
The hull then had the stowage

attached; the kits Jerry cans were
modified to accept the P.E.
baskets, which looked much
better than the ones moulded
onto the cans themselves. Many
reference pictures show the rear
baskets bent out of shape so I
tried to model this as best I could
13
WHEELS AND TRACKS

The road wheels were prepared first with a Dremel then nicks in that no glue is required, but having had to reassemble the tracks
the tires were added with a blunt scalpel blade to make them look every time I moved them, I would dispute this! Instead I applied
worn. These were then brush painted with Lifecolor Vulcanised ‘Tamiya Extra Thin’ glue to the front of each track pin, this kept
Rubber from the excellent ‘Shades of Black’ set and then everything together, but still allowed the track move naturally.
weathered with the Tamiya Weathering System Grey to give them
a worn look. The tracks supplied with the kit are of the rubber
band variety and look accurate enough, the problem is the rather
pronounced seam line that runs along the outside of the track
pins. The vinyl used is very hard to clean up so in the end I
decided to use the AFV club individual tracks instead. Having
wrecked about half a sprue of links, I hit upon the best way of
removing them. Trimming all the sprue away and then placing the
sprue cutters across both sprue gates at the same time meant
that the delicate pins that hold the two track plates together are
not put under pressure and don’t break. The instructions maintain
FIGURES
I then turned my attention to the figures. The three crew
figures supplied with the tank looked good but their
poses had to be altered in order to make them appear
more natural. The Commander required the most work.
Having seen a rather dashing period picture of an Israeli
Commander sporting a pipe, I decided to use a Hornet
head with a suitable smoking expression and add a
scratch built pipe made from lead wire. I also gave him a
late 60’s hair-do complete with side burns and receding
hairline. Looking at the figures in position on the tank, the
hands looked rather large so these were replaced, again
with Hornet aftermarket items. Finally, the gunner was
given a beard made from Andrea sculpt.
14
PAINTING AND WEATHERING

Finally, the model was ready for its primmer coat. I used Alclad grey
primmer which formed a good key for subsequent coats. A shadow
coat of gloss black was added around the base of the turret and side
skirts to give contrast to what could otherwise be a rather monotone
finish. Several thin coats of ‘Lifecolor IDF Sandgrey’ were then sprayed
on. I then tried my hand at colour modulation. The top of the turret,
engine deck and front of the hull were given increasingly lighter shades
of the base colour, while underneath the side skirts and the base of the
turret were given darker tones. I feel I could have been a little bolder in
making more of a contrast but did not want to repaint the tank if it all
went wrong.
After adding a little chipping, I repeated this over the course of the
build to add contrast with some areas being covered by the weathering
process while others were added right at the end. I then gave the
whole model a coat of future. Due to the irregular surface of the hull
and turret, I decided to spray on the future coat to avoid any unwanted
build up around the hatches and details. The kit decals were correct
but the options were a little limited so I decided to use the Archer IDF
Dry Transfer set instead. This brought back many happy childhood
memories as transfer books were all the rage in the 1970’s. These
went on without any fuss and were easy to distress with a sewing
needle to make them look worn. Another coat of future then a coat of
Lifecolor satin clear was then added to seal everything in and prepare
the model for weathering.
A MIG Brown Wash was used to pick out details, once this was dry I
used the AK Interactive Streaking Grime which added a nice grubby
appearance. I then used the dust effects, unfortunately this proved to
be rather stubborn when trying to remove any excess. This may well be
due to the fact that I used standard white spirit not the official AK
Interactive product. Finally, certain areas where the crew would climb
on the tank were given a light wash with MIG Buff oil paint to restore
the original colour. Once the Antennas’ and crew hatches and other
fittings had been glued on, the model was given a light coating of
Tamiya XF57 in areas where dust would build up, this also helped unify
the finish on the whole tank, blending in the crew and items of kit that
looked a little stark before this. Pigments were then used to add the
final stage of weathering. The sand and soil of the Golan Heights has a
red-brown appearance so I selected the excellent Pinnacle Pigments
Desert Sand and Beach Sand colours, which provided a good match.
Finally a few extra items of kit were added, these were tied down with
EZ-line. Then I turned my attention to the base.
15
16
GROUNDWORK AND BUILDINGS

I wanted to create a simple scene that told removed and a pin was used to remove telegraph lines were then added to
a story, but one wouldn’t detract too much the masking solution and add random complete the scene.
from the tank. The Arab mother and scratches.
daughter figures by Verlinden, looked great Once I was happy with the road and the I enjoyed every aspect of this build, from
and required minimal modification, I just backdrop, these were glued to an ‘Art the research to the completion of the tank
added bags and repositioned the mother’s Foam’ card base. The banks of earth at and the diorama I have learnt new
arm so it is resting on her daughters the front and back of the diorama were modelling techniques as well as learning a
shoulder. then made. I used Sculptamould, a paper lot about the history of the conflict in the
One thing that immediately became based modelling medium which has a nice area.
apparent to me was the need for some earthy texture to it. This is first mixed with
kind of back ground. I was a little reluctant white glue and water, then the same
at first to use a two dimensional picture, pigments used on the tank are added to
but having seen the Costal kits backdrops give it the right colour, it is then spread on
at Telford I was convinced it would work the base. Bricks, bottles and other debris
with a few extra details. First of all the were added while it was still drying in order
window was cut out and left slightly open, to avoid them looking stuck on. This was
then some beams were added from old then left in the airing cupboard over night
bits of balsa wood. A telegraph pole was to cure properly. Once dry, the whole area
added, along with a piece of corrugated was given a light dry brushing with Tamiya
sheet treated with the Deluxe materials XF57, then the same colour was
rust system, over the other window. airbrushed over the pavement and the
The Pedestrian crossing was first masked edge of the road section to give a dusty
off; masking solution was then dabbed appearance and a key for the pigments.
around the edges. A light coat of Citadel The Pinnacle Pigments were then used to
Skull White was then applied with the give a sandy appearance to the banks
emphasis on the middle of the lines, to along with some scatter to add some
make them look worn. The tape was then contrast. Other small bits of wood and the
17
DIY Designing Photoetched Parts

PE is one of those things that isn’t very
difficult to do once you know how, but it
PHOTOETCH
Ever fancied your own Photoetch?
Chris Meddings from Inside the Armour
explains the mysteries of designing
your own photoetched parts
group objects etc so that they can be

resized, rearranged, copied and so on,
with ease; which really helps when you are
The cost of the tool is a one-off cost
provided you don’t make any revisions to
the design. If you do make revisions the
does take a lot of practice to do it well. It is playing drawing ‘Tetris’ trying to arrange all tool needs to be completely redrawn so
also expensive to do it as a one off. the parts into a coherent fret design. you double your cost right away. It pays
then to get your drawing right first time!
When designing a sheet you need to know The next thing to consider is how to design The sheet cost is fixed no matter how
how PE works. Essentially the sheet is your parts. All parts are compromise; you many frets fit on it. So if your fret is A6
etched from both sides to a standard need to measure the real thing then adjust sized; you can get 4 frets for the same
depth of half the sheet thickness. This your measurements so that the part cost of having one done, if it’s A5 you can
means if you have it etched in the same matches the kit part you are designing to. get two and so on. So if you build a lot of
place both sides you get a hole. This can Good etch, in my experience, works to a the same subject you can consolidate the
limit you. For instance, if you want an L tolerance of 0.01 mm. If you get the width cost over a few builds.
shaped bracket that’s easy; you just put an of your folds wrong, or your parts are
etched line in the middle on one side and slightly out they won’t line up and it is not a When I first send something I intend to
that’s your bend. However, if you want it to medium that is tolerant of mistakes like release commercially off I know that no
have nuts on it on the outside you can’t, styrene can be. I use digital callipers that I matter how careful I have been there WILL
because the half etch needed to etch in bought for about £10 to measure all parts be mistakes. I get a couple of test frets
the nut heads on one side will eat through and the program I draw it in will also draw done then adjust the design to fix the
to the half etch on the other side for the in 1:1 scale to my measurements to errors then get the final sets done.
fold and make a hole or cut the part in half. 0.01mm which means I know the drawing So on to the ‘nuts and bolts’
So you can either not have the fold line is exactly the right size when I send it to
and fold the half thickness part (created by PPD. Thickness
etching the bolts) carefully in the right A huge range of material thickness are
place, or leave off the bolts and add the Cost-wise, drawing your own PE is not for available, from 0.05mm or thereabouts to
fold line. So there is a lot to consider when the faint-hearted. The ‘photo tool’ (a 2mm. However, 0.05 is fragile, and
drawing your parts. template the etching company uses to definition suffers over 0.8mm simply
produce the films that stop out the areas because the eye can more easily see the
When designing it you draw the front and on the brass not to be etched) is a fixed fact etching leaves an angled cut (the
back separately. (Picture 1) Simply put, the cost which includes the time needed to angle is insignificant and all but invisible to
company I use; PPD Ltd, accept drawings translate your drawing into a compatible the naked eye at normal thicknesses)
in black and white with black being not file for their system, then you have to add
etched and white being etched. I use a the cost of the brass (which is per A4 The usual thickness you get in kits and
cheap drawing program called Serif Draw Sheet of brass), then the VAT, then commercial PE is between 0.15 (6 thou)
Plus as it allows you to design objects, carriage. and 0.25 (10 thou) with most coming in at
1
18 FRONT REAR
0.2mm/ 8 thou. But if in doubt ask PPD or length of around 2mm if you want to be Part Breakdown
your supplier and they will be able to able to cut it out. You need a minimum line Remember, the more complex you make
advise you. thickness of 0.25mm, but 0.3 is a lot parts and the more folds, the more
better. Etching is a timed process where precision you need in your maths. Making
the brass is covered in a photoresist based multi-part assemblies can help this
Etching Folds tool and is placed in a bath of acid. If it’s in problem somewhat. Make sure though that
The depth of the fold line fixed at half the there a few seconds too long a tiny tag your parts fit together! A good way to do
material. The etch line itself is pretty much can disappear, but big tags are ugly and this is to print your drawing on thin card
a V cut. To get a right angle fold you need more work to clean up. I only add tags on when you think it is ready and do some
to ensure your etch line is the same width the drawing for the rear. It makes it much test folding and assembly with the card
as the material thickness. To get a fold to easier to work with the fret on your bench versions.
work well past 90 degrees you will need a when the tags are half etched and
wider line. To make it look on a fold under therefore easier to cut through. Line it up
90 degrees a little less is good, but no less Most importantly as your final check, make
than around 60% of the material thickness. Detail and Line Width sure the two drawings; front and rear, are
Remember though, anything under the Just because you can draw it, it doesn’t lined up perfectly or you will get steps in
thickness of the material will not allow you mean they can etch it! When I originally the parts or worse the etch company will
a 90 degree fold! If you are etching on designed the set of Pyrene extinguisher be unable to resolve the tool.
0.2mm / 8 thou or less and you want it to placards I added the writing on the
look really neat you can stop the fold line placards in full detail. Sadly the only thing Conclusion
just before the edge, maybe 2.0mm but that could physically be etched was the Like anything it’s a learning process. It can
bear in mind this may affect the bend Pyrene logo. I had to change the rest to be expensive at the start but you will learn
depending on the length of the fold mere representative lines.) The minimum a lot and get better and better. Never be
(Picture 2) line width that the photo-tools can cope afraid to ask for advice. Photoetching
with is 0.1mm. Keep this in mind in your companies etch for a living and want
Arranging Your Fret designs. happy customers so they will share their
You will want to arrange your fret for the expertise. Once you crack it though it is
minimum empty space and maximum use. The Fret rewarding and opens a whole new world of
It’s a good idea to draw one side of your The fret is a necessary part, but you need detail for your own projects.
fret as separate objects and play with to keep it within the minimum tolerances to
tessellating them together before you make sure it doesn’t eat up valuable and
settle on a design. Make sure you leave costly brass real estate. Keep the border of
enough space though for tags and a the fret to around 3 to 5mm. The fret will
couple of lines across the fret to give it twist on the X and Y axis and will damage Serif Draw Plus: www.serif.com
some strength. parts if it doesn’t have some strength, You PPD Ltd: www.ppdltd.com
can do this in two ways; either lines across
Tags the fret which the parts can attach to as
These are the little lines that hold the part well as the border, or by basically making
onto the fret. (Picture 3) Forget these and part shaped holes in a sheet of brass to fit
you will receive an empty fret in the post the parts into. I prefer the latter as it also
with no parts! Opening new etch is protects the parts from ‘catching’ on things
exciting; not so much when all you get is a in the package and on your bench
half empty fret. Tags need a minimum
2 3
19
20
"In der Falle?"

Tasca’s 1:24 Zündapp KS 750 m. BW43 ("Kriegselefant")
PART ONE • Modelled by Robert Doepp

Along with the BMW R 75 the Zündapp KS 750 was the first German motorcycle originally designed for
military use. In particular a differential simultaneously drove the sidecar-wheel which gave stunning cross
country performance. Along with its reliability and solidity this made the "Kriegselefant" (war elephant) one
of the most legendary German vehicles.
Even though the Zündapp’s overall design proved superior to that of BMW and was to be eventually
exclusively produced, in 1943 Zündapp changed the sidecar frame from the original layout (BW40) to the
leaf spring system of the BMW (BW43). A total of 18,284 units were produced between late 1941 and
May 1945. While originally mainly used as a combat vehicle for reconnaissance units it was later on
employed for multiple transportation purposes just like the fictional motorcycle from a tank maintenance
unit (Pz.Werkst.Kp. Pz.Rgt. 16, 116. Pz.Div.) I have decided to represent with my model.
Tasca has chosen the rather extraordinary 1:24 scale for this subject. To super-detail this model and to
integrate it into a small scenic diorama turned out to be rather ambitious, because I could not rely on the
usual aftermarket details that 1:35 scale enthusiasts have come to rely on.
21
In order to enhance the cold running characteristics the late style air cleaning
system was connected to the exhaust with a thin tube represented by copper
wire. Notice that all nuts and bolts are replaced with hexagonal rod.
1 2
The storage boxes were fixed to a characteristic cast frame and held in
place by a spring supported doubled hook. To enhance the simplified kit
part I carefully removed the plastic representation of the spring and
replaced it with copper wire.
Construction joints of the frame. Therefore I tried to find a

Even though the Tasca Zündapp kit handy way to create sub-assemblies, which
provides an already stunning level of detail, would be easy to work on and could be kept
like all injection moulded kits it has to face separate for painting.
the limitations of moulding techniques, When I had finished the main components
which provides the opportunity for a fair of the engine, I glued all main parts of the
amount of additional detailing. Instead of frame together (Pic 1) and carefully cut the
describing all of them I will concentrate on steering head assembly afterwards following
some major changes. The images of the the lines of the original weld seams (Pic 2).
unpainted model hopefully are self evident The result was a wide gap, which allowed
to explain the missing details. me to insert the motor and by drilling the
frame ends and gluing copper wire pins to
The instructions suggest gluing the two the steering head the frame could be rather
halves of the frame around the pre- firmly fitted and disassembled again
assembled engine and differential. Having whenever necessary throughout the ongoing
done this these components cannot be construction work. Later on the small gaps
removed anymore, which will complicate were hidden by newly created weld-seams
painting them as well as reworking the from Magic Sculp.
22
All three lamp bodies were The inside of the steering head lacks the hollowed
hollowed to adapt lenses made character of the original part. A piece of plastic
from clear sprue. The latter were rod is employed to glue the wiring of course is not
turned with an electric drill. I also original but everything is covered by the fuel tank
decided to make the clamping anyway.
rings from copper wire as well.
To open the toolbox on

top of the fuel tank I
had to carefully cut out
the upper half of the
tank and thinned out
the lid.
The actual seats were
made of a rubber-like
material called
"Drilastic", which was
far thinner than the kit
parts and pinned to a
metal frame.
The driver’s seat springs were remade from The late style air cleaner system of the Zündapp The long copper wire pin fitted tightly into the differential and
copper wire to get the correct conical ends. had three single caps, which were held in place therefore fixed the sidecar firmly while staying removable
by wire clamps. I replaced the moulded parts throughout construction work.
with very thin wire taken from an electric cable.
As I planned to show a late war scene I framing (Pic 4). Just like with the actual Adapting the sidecar frame made frequent
decided to change the sidecar layout from vehicle the exact position of the frame had handling of the motorcycle necessary. Thus
BW40 to the BW43 type. The BW40 had to be fixed by two adjustable rods (Pic 5). the most delicate details had to be added
been developed by Zündapp and showed The main fixing point of the sidecar later on. Beside the manual shifting
a torsion bar based suspension. which was mudguard was located on top of the outer system it was also necessary for the
technically superior. But the leaf spring leaf spring section, which I had to build cables and the wiring system as well.
based BMW system of the R75 was more completely from scratch. To estimate the These ran from the handle bars and front
simple and easier to produce and necessary sizes I provisionally fixed the lights into the hollowed out steering head.
therefore Zündapp adapted it. fender to the sidecar wheel (Pic 6) and While the kit instructions suggests keeping
When the motorcycle could stand on its made the front mount from copper strip the front forks separate I decided to firmly
wheels I could start to create the new connected to the newly made protective glue them to the steering head instead.
sidecar’s drive (Pic 3) and to make a first front bracket before I could complete This decision complicated the painting
rough representation of the simple sidecar spring system and central mount. process of course but on the other hand
23
The hand shift lever system was

one of the most difficult things to
make. The moulded in Zündapp
emblem was made from Magic
Sculp.
The fully detailed sidecar frame.

5
You can again see the copper
pins that were used to attach
this to the main motorcycle
frame.
6
proved helpful in dealing with the completed front end as soon as the
stiff cabling and wiring from copper-wire had been added.
The sidecar body was the last part I finished. The basic problem was the
fact that it was originally made of thin sheet metal while its plastic
representation is rather thick, so details which I added to both inside and
outside were hard to adapt. My plan had been to use only two figures for
the diorama setting and so I filled the otherwise empty sidecar body with
some scratch built extra stowage from the "Panther" family. So when I
decided later on that a third soldier would add to the little scene I used a
salvaged civilian pillow to create additional seating accommodation.
24
The cast in metal strips to hold the wooden food In order to support the storage boxes fixations the side car body was stiffened with extra sheet metal plates
rests were replaced one after another from copper on the inside. These were engraved into the thick plastic. Notice the also engraved reversed "Steib"
to preserve the original shape. emblem, which was originally stamped into the sheet metal.
25
Tamiya tape was used to prevent dust from recessing on the painted
The front end of the side car body will be out of areas. Notice the "Steib" emblem made from Magic Sculp, which was
reach once the outer sidewall is glued into place. manipulated with the tip of a knife and a needle.
Thus it had to receive a complete painting and
weathering treatment at first.
A jack weighing about 50 kg would certainly imprint the side car seat
and should be kept from damaging the sidecar body with some
fabric, which both were represented by Magic Sculp. To allow painting
everything had to be kept removable.
The 15 t jack of the early "Panther" series was

completely made from scratch including the "Pfaff"
emblem. The letter was reversely engraved into a
piece of plastic card and pressed into half-dried
Magic Sculp.
26
While already disassembling the treatment. To enable this after

motorcycle to sub-assemblies I finally construction was done I split the model
prepared its firm fixings to the base by into many sub-assemblies and time-
drilling the tires and adding pins made consumingly attached them to home
from copper wire. made handles.
The key problem when modelling a The Project continues in the next
motorcycle is the fact that it consists of a Issue with painting the Zündapp.
fair amount of very delicate parts, of
which hardly any are hidden in the end.
So almost every part has to receive a
complete painting and weathering
The completed Zündapp broken down into its

different sub-assemblies in preparation for painting.
27
Photos courtesy of Peter Breakspear ©
1 2
Painting began with a coat of matt black to shade all the recessed areas There then followed a rather unsuccessful attempt at the hairspray effect with
followed by a coat of ‘Shadow Rust’ from the new AK Interactive Rust Effect a coat of ‘Old Rust’ from the same AK Interactive set which produced this
28 Colors set. rather unexpected finish. My perfectionism almost had me reaching for the
stripper but I decided to push on instead.
Part two of the Target Tortoise and it is time to

start painting, a procedure that would be make
or break for the finished model. I have had no
real experience in tackling a subject like this
before so it proved to be a case of making it up
as I went along. My aim was to replicate as
closely as I could the different finishes found on
the actual vehicle and with different sides of it
having very different appearances this offered
an intriguing challenge.
After the initial stages of painting with the

airbrush I found it most useful to divide the
model up and to work on front, side and roof as
separate mini studies. Observation is the key to
getting good results and I worked with colour
print outs of the relevant sections to guide
me.
The final challenge was to present the

vehicle in context, something that
replicated its real life location. The
key here was to get the heavy
sunken look of a massive vehicle
that has not moved for years and
has been absorbed into the
landscape. The sloping position
added some interest and made
sense of the carefully replicated
weathering effects. A copy of the
original makers plate for this vehicle
was an appropriate finishing touch
for the base.
TARGET
Tortoise
Part Two Painting
David Parker builds the Meng A39 Tortoise
3 4
Another coat of hairspray was applied and the model was sprayed with This time the hairspray was more effective and the darker underlying colours
different shades of AK Interactive ‘Dark Rust’ and ‘Medium Rust’. ‘Light Rust’ were exposed by srubbing with water and a bristle brush.
was then used to paint the sheet metal areas like the track guards and the 29
stowage bins.
the
TARGET
real
Tortoise
30
Photos courtesy of Peter Breakspear ©
31
5 6
To tone down the contrast between the colours some of the lighter tones were An overall view to the model at this stage and I was happy that it was
oversprayed resulting in a more subtle finnish. conforming closely to the colours of the actual vehicle. Most of the running
gear will be hidden so i was happy for this to remain in the darker colours.
7 8
At some time it appears that the Kirkcudbright vehicle was partially painted to The paint was then distressed to replicate as closely as I could the finish on
improve its visibility on the range but only on the side facing up range. Now the real vehicle. Working panel by panel or area by area is the secret here
worn and faded the hairspray technique was perfect to replicate this. Here rather than diving in and stripping paint from the wrong areas.
the grey paint has been sprayed over a coat of hairspray.
9 10
I brush painted the stowage bins and track guards to sharpen up any soft Time for some work inside the hull and I was grateful that the top had not yet
edges that had been left by the airbrushing. been secured. I added a dull grey/brown wash to the floor silt.
11 12
Oil colours were used to add rain and rust streaks running down the inside I began to add some of the debris lying inside the hull which seems to be
32 walls of the hull. mostly bits of sheet metal work and the seemingly obligatory car tire! I used
scrap plastic card to make these parts which were perforated with a burr and
then painted.
13 14
The hull is speckled by bright orange spall marks which have then rusted. My
initial attempt to replicate these looked wrong but lead me to develop this
process to create them. I began with dots and chips of AK ‘Light Rust’
15
An overall view of the hull tub at this stage. The tracks have been sprayed
and given an initial oil wash at this stage and you can see than the rubber Step two and the centre of these dots and chipping shapes are shaded with
tires have been painted in a faded grey tone. AK ‘Medium Rust’ giving this look
16 17
Step three and I applied a selective blended oil wash to the panel. Dots of Step four, a darker shade was then touched into the centres using AK ‘Old
Abteilung 502 Light Rust Brown were dabbed over the speckles and then Rust’ and some of the rust streaks are enhanced with further applications of
dragged downwards with a thinners damped brush to give a rain streaked oil colours.
effect.
18 19
Step five. To match this area with the finish of the real vehicle a further overall The same technique was used to create the spall marks across the front of
oil wash using Abteilung 502 Light Rust Brown and Light Mud was applied to the superstructure. 33
tone down the finish.
20
The running gear armour was handled using the same techniques and similarly toned down to match the colours of the real vehicle. Once toned down I first
sprayed and then brush painted the green staining over the lower edges of the armour and the running gear which replicates the finishes on the real vehicle.
21
The left hand side of the hull has its own distinctive appearance and has been shielded from the gun fire. I tried to replicate the different colours and stains and
as the Tortoise sits on a slope the stains are not perpendicular.
22 23
Back to the roof and I used an old soft brush to apply random soft edged I used a pale grey to start outlining the weld beads over the vehicle. Assorted
chipped patterns using a darker shade - here the front roof panel has not yet rust streaks were added with oil colours and pale dust/orange washes were
been treated. applied to replicate the real thing
24 25
I used some very dilute Mr Metal Color Chrome Silver to go over the weld Some foliage is growing where light gets into the hull like the engine bay and
34 beads, allowing some of the pale grey to show through for a dulled look. On the area under the transmission cover. I added some more sheet metal to the
the pistol port I added the green stains seen on the real welds. engine bay and then tufts of static grass from the Joefix Studios range were
applied.
26 27
I painted the grass and added some granulated foam to simulate moss. A
quick and easy way to add more tiny scraps of sheet metal was to paint
offcuts of decal paper. This tears for nice ragged edges and accepts the paint
readily and is much quicker to work with than plastic.
28
Close study of the real tracks showed that the raised areas had a distinct An overall view of the hull with all the debris and foliage added. Some green
purple tint so I mixed a dark purple/brown mix to replicate this on my tracks. tones were airbrushed selectively to give that damp look and you can see the
same effects on the exposed right hand side suspension bogies.
29 30
I also added some foliage and accumulated debris to the empty auxiliary The rusted out muffler can now be installed - it covers much of the
motor bay to match the real vehicle. compartment but the details can still be seen so it was well worth taking the
time to add them.
31 32
One final thing before glueing the two parts of the The vehicle has been standing for so long that debris has collected on top of the tracks and some weeds
hull together was to glue the gun cradle into are starting to grow there. I began by sprinkling some very fine dirt into selective areas of the tracks. 35
position on the hull roof. It is not terribly visible but Clumps of the Joefix static grass were then added as well as other bits of debris.
again it replicates the real vehicle.
33 34
The same treatment was applied to the section of exposed rear tracks and a For the base I sandwiched together some polystyrene sheet and formed a
large clump of grass was added to the top of the towing hook. suitable slope. A thick layer of filler was applied and using cling film to protect
the model it was pushed down to give a sunken look. Once dry I began to
apply the grass using Gardman Sisa Moss which was glued onto the base in
clumps with white glue.
35 36
This shows the building up effect of consecutive Test fitting the model into the base ensures that it is sitting in a natural way and that there are no strange
clumps of the Sisa Moss. At this stage there are gaps. With the model removed you can see that I did bother to apply grass under the tank. You can also
some huge long strands which look unsightly but see that the moss has been trimmed with scissors for a more scale appearance.
these can be trimmed once everything has dried.
36
37 38
The grass has a bit of a brown shade from the bag so I The next job was to add the taller grasses for which I used two different products. The first was a
gave the whole thing an overspray of green to adjust the Woodland Scenics product which is a pack of long bristles and you could probably use bristles
colour balance. from a decorating paintbrush instead. The second is a dried natural plant which I found in a florists
and the tiny seed heads are ideal for this grass effect. Individual strands with the seed heads are
plucked off the bunch to be applied.
39 40
The taller grasses were added individually or in small clumps using a touch of As a finishing touch I added the makers plate from the Kirkcudbright vehicle.
PVA glue to secure them until a convincing depth was achieved. Derek Hansen of Accurate Armour kindly made a resin copy of the original
plate which I painted with Mr Metal Colour Brass and some carpet tacks
made perfect stand ins for the studs.
37
My thanks to Richard Stickland for his help with information from the original Tortoise manual, Peter Breakspear for his photos of
the Kirkudbright vehicle and to Derek Hansen for a copy of the original makers plaque.
Modelled and described by Radek Pituch

The story of the so called Stalin tank (IS or capable of defeating even the heaviest
JS in English nomenclature) begins in 1943 German tanks. The gun had some
where the demand for a powerful heavy shortcomings like a low rate of fire (the
tank arose due to the ever increasing projectile and the charge were loaded
power of the Panzerwaffe. It was by then separately) and consequently restricted
obvious that the KV series, even the quantities of stowed ammunition, but the
modernized KV 1s (skoryj - fast) was no menacing look of the JS 2 surely terrified
match for German long-barrelled tanks German tankers when encountering them
and antitank guns deployed in vast in the field.
numbers before Zitadelle. It was also
obvious that the 76,2 mm guns (KVs were Building and updating the
armed with the F-32 L/41,5) lacked punch model
to defeat the even better-armoured AFVs My model, having been a long term shelf
of the Reich. They also lacked sufficient queen, represents the later version of the
power when a breakthrough operation was Stalin tank with redesigned hull nose that
required and heavy fire was supposed to could withstand direct hits even from
destroy strong points and artillery 88mm PaK fire. The model is the older
positions. The Stavka (Russian high generation Dragon kit. The kit has some
command) decided that a new tank should shortcomings and is below today’s
have a long barrelled large caliber gun and standards (when comparing to Tamiya) like
armour sufficient enough to withstand the an incorrect hull (the sides are too short by
fire from German heavy ant-tank guns. The 2 mm and if you won’t fix this issue the
final result of this development was the JS upper track run will touch the underside of
1 armed with an 85 mm gun that later the fenders. I reworked the hull sides that
developed to the JS 2 tank armed with the also resulted in some alterations to the hull
122 mm gun, so much needed in bow and rear by adding styrene strips and
breakthrough operations. It was also putty which were later sanded. I also
38
Appro acrhlin
to Be
JS II Model 1944, April 1945
39
added some other aftermarket products to medium green shade, a flashed light green applied some delicate splashes over the
build a more accurate model like a turned one and a deep green shade colour. I suspension and lower hull parts. The
D-25T gun barrel from Armorscale, turned proceeded with the model, masking some wheels were treated with pigments (Dark
turret rear DT machine gun from Aber, and of the areas during painting with paper Slate Grey and Green Earth, that were later
towing rope from Eureka. Etched grills card masks. After this phase I enhanced fixed with a pigment fixer. I usually apply
come also from an Armorscale update set. some of the details with a very light green pigments on wet surfaces and tap them
The tracks are of my usual choice of Friuls. colour composed of the flashed shade and with a old soft brush. I apply two-three
I also added some torch marks on the hull geldbraun. Later I used Mig Prod. neutral shades at once so I get more colour
bow section where the casting blocks were wash and some van Dyke Brown based pin diversity at once. The oil stains on the
cut (the whole bow section was a single washes. The scratches were painted using wheels were made using van Dyke Brown
casting). I also added some of these marks Vallejo 70.002 paint diluted with retarder. I white spirit based solution and with the
on the commanders cupola, this was all find it to be the most useful colour for this help of Mig Prod. neutral wash.
done with Greenstuff putty that I normally purpose. This basically sums up the
use for my figure sculpts. I also added painting process. The figures
some weld marks in the areas of the A vehicle without figures is not that
missing fenders and scratchbuilt front The weathering of the model was done in interesting as it can be with them on
fenders bracket remains with thin plastic a different manner than I normally do. This board. They not only add some life to the
sheet (0.2 mm). I wanted the vehicle to time I wanted to try out something else, a subject we’re building but also colours and
look very beaten up that’s why I removed kind of dry mud effects on the hull and tend to attract more attention to the
the front parts of the fenders and one of turret. Since I wanted to show the tank subject. Sculpting can be difficult but you
the rear flaps, a common feature of battle operating in the first warmer days of April can always try converting some stock
weary Stalin tanks. 1945 I didn’t want it to be completely wet, figures to your ideas. By adding figures you
yet very weathered after the wet season. can always tell a story with a single
Painting and weathering That’s why, after some initial testing, I vehicle, yet without necessarily adding
The paintjob was done basically in two came up to an idea to use the excellent groundwork. In my case I choose to
steps. First I sprayed a primer layer of Tamiya acrylics (XF 52 and XF 72) as the portray a conversation between the crew
Tamiya’s Deep Green shade. This basis basic weathering component. These were and a recon troop squad leader. Late war
allowed me to work further with a new set diluted with alcohol. By mixing them with soviet tank crews can be seen wearing a
of Lifecolor paints dedicated to Soviet alcohol I was able to scratch and remove leather type black jackets over their
vehicles – a 3 in 1 Soviet AFV 4 BO green some areas of the so painted surfaces due standard tanker uniforms and overalls.
paint set. The set consists of three paints to weathering. All was done with fine After some research and help from my
selected especially for the Colour brushes, layer after layer different earth colleague Taesung Harmms of Alpine
Modulation technique so we have a base tones were applied on the model. I also Miniatures it appeared that the jackets
40
were made of a kind of fire-retardant material so not

leather as I initially though them to be. As for the recon
troop leader I decided to give it a go with the very
common type of camouflage clothes in the so called
amoeba camouflage pattern. Development of
camouflage clothes in the Red Army began before the
war and in 1941 the amoeba pattern was already
available though not so common in army units other
than recon, sniper or engineer troops. By 1945 Red
Army deployed other types of camouflage clothes
issued to specialized army units but I was very keen on
painting the amoeba type camouflage. This type
consisted of dark brown blotches printed on different
colour smocks and trousers, from dark sand to khaki
41
42
Painting of the turret numbers was done in two ways.

First i painted the 'old' three digit tactical number by
applying a diluted layer of vallejo stencil white colour.
Then using a modelling knife and toothpick I started
scratching the paint to remove as much as possible yet
to leave the outline. Then I painted the new number
along with the air recognition marks around the turret and
its roof. This was a common practice especially before
Berlin operation to reorganize the units and give the
vehicles new numbers. A simple yet interesting touch.
green ones. Some sources claim that details with Greenstuff putty. Both can be toothpicks. It’s always useful to have a
there were even blue types of these mixed together and that gives you the sharp blade at hand. GS as well as MS can
pattern but I wasn’t able to confirm that. flexibility of GS and the ductility of MS in be smoothed with water. For the belt of the
The figures were sculpted with Magic one. In my case Greenstuff is good as it recon trooper I used led foil strip. The
Sculp using the excellent Hornet heads comes to details such as hair, belts, buckle comes from a PE set of medals,
and hands sets. I also have some boots buttons, resculpting facial expressions etc. buckles and other useful stuff my friends
castings that I use as a basis for my own but some sculptors use this putty even for once designed for me. If you want to
conversions. The armatures of the figures larger parts of their sculpts. Nevertheless achieve as much realism as possible it’s
were made with the paper clip wire and for sculpting clothes I prefer Magic Sculp. important to focus not only on the details
magic sculp made torsos and hips. For The tools I use are very simple consisting and folds of the clothes but most of all on
sculpting I always use Magic Sculp two of a spatula made of old brush stick while the language of human body. Choosing
part epoxy putty and make most of the the main folds sculpting tools are shaped proper gestures, facial expressions help to
43
achieve a overly natural look of a figure. In

my case I wanted to portray a situation
that may have occurred during the
advance toward the city of Berlin, a recon
squad reports his observations to the crew
of a JS 2 that had advanced up the Berlin
suburbs. I wanted that figure to be in a
quite dramatic pose hence his worried
expression. The commander of the tank
indicates some areas of advance on the
map while the gunner gives a long gaze
into the distance. I have added some
ruggedness to their faces by painting
some stubble to emphasize their weary
looks. The paints I use for figure painting
are mostly Vallejo Model Color and Panzer
Aces with addition of acrylic retarder from
Talens. For the painting of the camo smock
base colour I chose a khaki green tone
Vallejo Panzer Aces 70.314. For the shades
I added 70.316 to the base colour and for
highlights 70.321. These tones are applied
as follows – the highlights on the upper
44 edges of the folds of the uniform and the
shades in the lower ones. By doing this

you enhance the 3D look of the figures. For
the blotches colours no 70.312 and 70.302
were used. To get an even more in depth
appearance in the figure I also stressed the
contours with a mixture of 70.316 and
70.337 with a reasonable amount of
retarder to get the thinnest line possible.
All in all the I had a lot of fun with this

project, experimenting with acrylic paints
and alcohol-based weathering technique.
This attempt ended up with some nice dry
weathering results yet without too much
pigments involved in the process. I find this
satisfactory and I was already able to use
this technique in another modeling project.
Needles to say that the Stalin tank along
with its crew is planned for a diorama but
that’s another story!
45
new releases
KEEPING TRACK
Dragon 1:35 M48A3 Mod.B

It's refreshing to see a completely new kit from Dragon, and what kit back in issue 63). The upper hull and mudguards continue the
better news than an M48?! AFV Club have released shots of their quality with well reproduced exhaust deflector and fine lifting
forthcoming release of the 'Patton' but as they’ve done before, hooks. The drivers hatch can be posed swung open and clear
Dragon have swiftly brought their own kit to the market. So if it periscopes are provided, the cast texture is again well rendered.
has been rushed out does it look? First impressions on lifting the The turret and cupola look accurately detailed with fine grab rails
lid are good, Dragon’s renowned moulding finesse is as you’d and bustle rack, the main gun tube is moulded as a single piece
want it and the parts count looks very reasonable for a straight with the front section and muzzle brake separate, the muzzle
forward build. DML always exploit their tooling to the full and the being the earlier straight 'T' shape. Now before we get too carried
design of the kit is so that several other versions can be easily away, I can't work out why Dragon have produced the mantlet
produced, this upgraded 'Model B' features the beefed-up without it's ever-present protective cover? I can't recall seeing a
mudguards and light guards and also the raised cupola with vision period photograph of an M48 without one fitted, they've even gone
blocks which are supplied as clear parts (requiring a dark green to the trouble of moulding the fasteners. An unusual omission
tint, drawing ink airbrushed from the reverse would do the trick) As which spoils the look of the otherwise excellent turret. If you can't
usual the build begins with the lower hull and running gear, the face sculpting your own the aftermarket guys have already come
single piece hull bottom is fully detailed complete with cast texture to the rescue (DEF Model and Legends among others). Another
and the complex suspension mounts and shock absorbers are all no-show is the searchlight which was more often seen than not,
pleasingly detailed. Road wheels are produced with separate tires again aftermarket sets are available. The markings offered are
offering excellent sharp detail but I was disappointed to see the rather bland considering the choices available. Maybe we could
sprockets without the large slots running along the internal depth, expect a USMC release with the mantlet cover, searchlight and
not difficult to rectify thankfully. The track is produced in DS perhaps an externally turret mounted .50 cal? We've waited over
styrene and very well detailed, this should suit the tight look of the thirty years for an all-new kit of the M48 and we're certainly
runs across the support rollers well. If you must use individual links looking forward to seeing some built.
I'd recommend AFV Club's track sets (as I used on the old Tamiya
Accurate Armour Micro Saws

Scotland's stalwarts of specialist resin
kits and accessories Accurate Armour
have produced their own micro saw
blades to fit a regular Swan Morton
scalpel handle. Ideal for both resin and
plastic, these mixed size toothed saws
prove invaluable tools, MT011S provides
eight saw blades on a heavy duty
photoetched fret and comes complete
with a handle. MTO12 contains six
thinner gauge micro blades with fine,
medium and coarse teeth which need to
46 be folded before fitting to the handle. For
more info: www.accurate-armour.com
Stalingrad 1:35 figures
Stalingrad marches on Berlin with this

series of Russian infantry involved in the
fight for Berlin in 1945. Sculptor
Alexander Zelenkov is surely amongst
the best figure artists working today
and these new releases will fit very well
with his future release of a full tram car
in 1:35! S-3041 is firing his PPSH,
clutching the drum magazine, S-3042 is
decked out in a greatcoat holding a
7.62 with bi-pod, S-3043 gets to grips
with a captured panzerfaust, S-3044 is
kneeling firing his PPSH and my
favourite S-3045 running at full stride
gripping a captured MP44. The finesse
and casting of all the figures is superb
along with details such as hands
moulded to the weapons offer the
modeller ultimate realism- figures don't
get better than this!
www.stalingrad.diorama.ru
for these and the whole Stalingrad
range.
Tommy's War
World War One 54mm figures
Two more beautiful Tommy's War figures to

add to the range of 54mm miniatures
depicting WWI subjects, as with the rest of
the range the sculpting and casting is
delightful. Along with the resin parts both
have a small photoetched set of belts and
buckles. TW54015 is an Australian of the
11th Bn at Gallipoli examining a Turkish sun
helmet and TW54016 depicts a Sergeant in
Princess Patricia's Canadian Light Infantry.
Along with the figure you'll receive 'News from
the front' containing historical details on the
figure's Regiments and action along with the
back-catalogue of others available in the
range. First rate quality all round available
from www.tommyswar.com and specialist
figure retailers. Superb!
Dragon 1:35 Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf.D DAK

DML continue to refine and re-visit their beautiful range of Panzer on the skinny, early track. Upper hull and mudguards are again
IVs, here's a fresh look at the DAK 'D' with around thirty exclusive superbly done and as this kit is under the 'Smart Kit' banner we're
parts to this tropical version, namely the air filters. The early hull only supplied tools with moulded on clamps. The turret has the
and running gear is superbly detailed as usual with accurate stowage bin as we'd expect on a DAK 'D' and the wonderfully
bump-stops and multi-part final drives, while some hard-core detailed interior and cupola with full open-up options and the ultra
detail freaks may shun the single band 'DS Track' there's no fine recessed fastener details we're accustomed to with these
denying that Dragon have made a great job and they speed up Dragon kits. Six options of markings give some great scope for
assembly no end. Now the confusing bit; The sprues include two weathering as the brutal desert conditions wear the overpainted
sets of wheels, one without tyres and a set with- parts 'A18' which tan revealing the contrasting dunkelgrau. Another very nice Panzer 47
are called for in the instructions. These appear to be the wider, IV version- if you can live with those wheels!
later tyre provided in their other kits and quite noticeable when sat
new releases
MiniArt 1:35 AEC Mk.I Armoured Car

The Associated Equipment Company Mk.I is a bit of a surprise wheels and tyres with MiniArt's usual approach of a separate
release as an injection moulded kit and will certainly please British moulded single piece tread part which the sidewall and wheel
vehicle modellers, this is a really purposeful looking vehicle parts drop into along with fully detailed hubs and brakes. Some of
sporting the Valentine Mk.II turret. Popping the lid off the sturdy the folding required of the photoetched parts is pushing things a
box reveals a packed-out pile of grey styrene, a small etched fret, little with a few specific radiuses and curves but I'm sure this can
an even smaller decal sheet and a few clear parts- it's be excused as the designers have strived for the ultimate in
immediately apparent this won't be a weekend build but the level delicate detail from this kit. Maybe stating the obvious but there's
of detail is superb with a truly 'full' interior extending to the turret the option to show off the interior and engine bay with open
and engine bay with all gear and transfer boxes, and of course the hatches, or if you're short on time an 'exterior' version could be
engine itself. Moulding quality is on-par with any of the modern built? Three different schemes are suggested for finishing; overall
toolings from the major manufacturers with minimal clean-up. All sand, dark green and a hard edged wave camo all based in North
of this interior detail requires a multi-plate build-up of the main African countries around 1942-43. MiniArt are to be commended
body which looks to be well designed, as does the make-up of the on a very thorough job of a niche vehicle- an excellent looking kit.
MiniArt 1:35 AEC Mk.II Armoured Car

Following very closely the Mk.I, the Mk.II carries a somewhat the modeller to cut down the shell cases supplied and onto into
larger turret sporting the 6 pdr main gun requiring an extra crew the holders. The majority of the build follows the Mk.I with different
member and comparable with the firepower of contemporary side panniers and mudguards supplied which along with the larger
tanks of the time. The Mk.II saw post-war service in Yugoslavia turret give a much chunkier look to the Mk.II. Four marking options
and with the Lebanese army giving a wide range of finishing are supplied, one being a vehicle supplied to the Yugoslav
options. The obvious difference with the kit then is the turret which People's Army in the Balkans. I'm sure if British armoured cars are
is of an equal standard to the rest of the sprues. The ammunition your thing you'll be adding both versions to your collection, you
48 stowage extends to the floor mounted containers which require wont be disappointed- highly recommended
MiniArt 1:35 MiniArt 1:35 German Tank

German Paratroopers Crew, Normandy 1944
and Tankers- Italy 1943
Three vehicle crew and two fallschirmjäger make up this set Yes, we have a very wide choice of panzer crew figures in 1:35,
who could be posed together or used in pairs or individually. The probably more than any other subject, but another great idea
vehicle crew could adapt to a wide range of subjects with their from MiniArt here taking some well known period photographs
basic tropical climate shirts and shorts. Quality again is very as inspiration for their sculptors to work from who have really
impressive- just about as good as it gets in injection moulded delivered the goods! This really is an instant vignette which will
plastic and equal to many more expensive resin miniatures on bring a great touch of character and atmosphere to any panzer
the market. The paratroopers in the tropical uniforms aren't project. Poses look very natural and the fabrics are beautifully
often seen as figures and are a welcome change superbly rendered. Another excellent group of figures from MiniArt that
done. get the imagination racing!
MiniArt 1:35 'Market Garden' MiniArt 1:35 Hungarian

1944 Tank Crew
Another scenario based on period photographs is this grouping

The last of four new figure sets from Ukraine's MiniArt is a timely
of three captured British paras and two German artillery troops
release coinciding with some recent Hungarian armour kits out
depicting the battle for Arnhem. The Red Beret's camo smocks
on the market. The five figures are in relaxed poses in a diverse
are particularly well sculpted and assembled as a 'clam' front
range of uniforms ranging from leather all-in-ones to an officer in
and back sections for ultimate detail, the para's helmets are
cavalry breeches, a couple look like they'd very easily adapt to
also really nicely done. Another superb instant vignette from the
represent French crew. Sculpting and anatomy are first rate and
box either with or without a vehicle in the scene. I don't think
the moulding clean leaving very little in the way of seams to
we've been disappointed by any of the figures released from
clean up, a bit of a bug-bear with some injection moulded
MiniArt, and they seem to get better and better, highly
figures. Great subjects well executed.
recommended.
Dragon 1:35 SAS 1/4-ton 4x4 Patrol Car

A long-winded way to say 'SAS Jeep' and obviously down to true Dragon flair making this 'Smart Kit' a straight-forward build
license restrictions, here's DML's second release of the vehicle with much of the time spent assembling the MGs and jerry cans
with a welcome addition of two figures based on the famous with fine photoetched frames. A couple of errors have been
Wartime photographs. This new version has different MGs pointed out on this kit in the past by Jeep fans (grille slat spacing
included, Vickers 'K' (twin and single) and a pedestal mounted .50 and an additional chassis part if I remember correctly) but really
Cal which Dragon have made a really nice job of. Also finely not much to concern most of us. A couple of crew are provided
rendered are the jerry cans with the US versions slide moulded in but some soft stowage and personal gear are a big omission with
one piece joined horizontally at the top seam allowing you to this kit, not something Dragon generally provide but an integral
display cap open realistically. Other features of note are the part of these SAS desert raiders- a few aftermarket sets are
optional 'layered' tyres built from multiple slices for well defined available or maybe a rummage in the spares box. Probably not as 49
tread detail and the comprehensively detailed engine and engine impressive as the Bronco Jeep, but certainly a simpler kit.
bay. The majority of the body is moulded as a single piece with
new releases
ple
n sam
u ctio
-p rod
Pre
Tamiya 1:35 JGSDF Type 10 Tank

You’d expect Tamiya to produce a stunning kit of their homeland these are about as good as you'd get in the medium with superb
Main Battle Tank and they certainly have. A plain (pre-production) detail to both inner and outer faces. A faint mould seem running
box houses the five pale grey sprues, separate hull bottom, across the end connectors is something most of us could live
rubber band tracks, poly caps, nylon mesh and decals in true with. The tricky turret basket has also been handled with style with
Tamiya fashion. Even though this vehicle holds little interest for us, fine and sharp slats needing no clean-up, a nylon mesh is
as a quite generic-looking sleek modern tank, but this really is one supplied with a cutting template. Once we calmed down we found
of those kits that just looks so inviting to build the subject is there were a couple of nit-picks. The .50 cal is very simplified and
almost irrelevant! The simplistic break-down of the parts is the main gun is supplied split lengthwise old-school style and
superbly done, the sprue containing the upper hull, side panels looking at a build-up in the Japanese magazine 'Armour Modelling'
and skirts is truly a masterclass in moulding, just look at the this needs attention to produce an invisible join. Two decent
realistic rubber skirts, delicate anti-slip texture and the finesse of figures round off this beautiful kit, if you're a fan of modern armour
the lifting handles and mesh - certainly no need for photoetch or just fancy a quick and simple project this one has to be highly
here. Rubber band style tracks are pretty dated in most cases but recommended.
ple
sam
uc tion
-p rod
Pre
Tamiya 1:35 M561 Gama Goat

Who could forget the Gama Goat? Well, pretty much everyone it design with ease of assembly promised. Tamiya have followed a
seems - except Tamiya who've taken everyone by surprise with similar format with their kits for many years and never seemed
this release. Originating in the early 1960s the vehicle is a two part swayed by what other manufacturers are producing so we have
affair with an articulated joint between the tractor unit and cargo solid moulded wheels and tyres with a rear tyre wall and hub
trailer- quite a radical design which appeared to be troubled with insert, simple fixed axles and steering and large tubs forming the
numerous problems. Not something that's going to win any beauty main bodies to add panels to- quite a basic kit all-round which
contests, this release certainly has us bemused, but what of the should assemble in no time at all. Whether the kit will be popular
kit? Our pre-release sample arrived in a plain white carton so enough for the aftermarket guys to get to work remains to be
there's none of the usual beautiful Tamiya box art to get you seen but some photoetched finesse wouldn't go amiss. Marking is
50 excited, two main sprues, two smaller duplicates, a clear sprue, supplied for vehicles from the mid-seventies and 1980s. Thanks to
poly-caps and decals- typically Tamiya. Also typical of the premier Tamiya's UK distributor The Hobby Company for the sample kit.
brand is the precise moulding and familiar modeller-friendly
Meng 1:35 FT-17

Time to crack open a new box of superlatives as Meng raise the 37mm shells to load up the racks. The kit supplies a die cast
bar again with their latest release of the tiny Renault FT-17 with suspension struts and metal springs, but tighter coils are required
complete interior detail. First impressions of the sand-coloured for complete accuracy so these are best replaced with home
sprues are that this might be a Tamiya kit, such is the quality of made versions. The suspension bogies are another superb piece
the moulding, yet it offers an extra level of finesse without of kit design and come with a choice of Idler wheel design and
deluging the modeller with thousands of tiny parts. Meng have cleverly sprued road wheels. The wood grain texture on the idler is
designed the kit to allow you build four different versions of the a tad heavy but could be toned down with some Mr Surfacer.
tank, two WWI examples, armed with either the cannon or MG, Individual track links are de-sprued and snap together for hassle-
and WWII versions again with the cannon or the 1931 Reibel free assembly and of course all the hatches and covers are
converted MG versions. Assembly begins with the highly detailed separate to allow all that interior loveliness to be shown off. A
engine and gearbox and we can confirm that this builds beautifully small etched fret supplies stowage straps and the turret seat
with shaped location pegs to prevent any accidental strap and the kit usefully includes a bonus tripod mount for the
misassignment. This locates on the hull floor plate and the stunning Hotchkiss MG. The decal sheet provides markings for
individual panel sides then assemble around this and care needs four different vehicles, two French, one Finnish and a German
to be taken in cleaning off the moulding plugs from the sloped example. Overall a stunning kit which builds painlessly and one I
interlocks. There is a choice of ammunition stowage depending on would recommend unreservedly.
your chosen weapon and Meng have supplied tiny individual
Takom 1:16 Renault FT-17

New manufacturer Takom know how to make a dramatic here, just the stubby 37mm cannon and the ammunition racks
entrance to the market with this 1:16 Renault FT-17 also with full reflect this but sadly do not include any shells to fill them. The Tail
interior detail. Whether the blood red plastic is also part of this skid also does not provide the sprung towing hook mount that
strategy we leave you to decide but there is no mislaying these was a feature of post 1931 vehicles. The running gear is robust
sprues! The kit comes with a coloured photoetched fret, metal without sacrificing detail and there is only the wooden version of
tow chain and individual link tracks and a decal sheet with three the idler provided. Solid moulded plastic springs for the return
different schemes. In many ways this is a scaled up version of the rollers would benefit from being replaced and the suspension
Meng kit with the same assembly breakdown and many identical lacks the casting numbers found on the Meng kit. The three piece
parts. The quality of the moulding is generally high with a tiny bit track links look excellent and these sprues also included moulded
of flash and good surface detail. The plastic is a little brittle and rivets to add to curved parts of the turret where the rivets could
can splinter when snipped off the sprues, but can be worked not be moulded which is a nice touch. Early days with our build
cleanly with a sharp blade. The main hull sides are a little warped but so far this assembles well and should make a very impressive
on our sample but nothing to really cause alarm. Just like Meng, model with all that internal detail. Our thanks to Inside the Armour
the complete engine and gearbox are superbly detailed and the who are UK distributors for Takom for the sample. 51
treadplate on the driver’s pedals are supplied as photoetched www.insidethearmour.com
parts, as is his seat back strap. There is no choice of weapons
ple
sam
uc tion
-p rod
Pre
Tamiya 1:48 Russian Armoured Car BA-64B

Fancy a quick and easy project? Maybe something to complete in places, the 7.62 MG and suspension are toy-like and very
over a quiet weekend? With only thirty six parts including a figure chunky but we have nicely detailed wheels and good surface
this new Tamiya kit certainly falls into that category, the BA-64B detail on the body. Finishing is typically overall green with large
looks very much like a Russian SdKfz 222 with it's angular body white turret numbers provided on a postage stamp sized decal
and small open turret. I'm sure this kit will fall together with ease sheet. If you're a 1:48 fan I think the wait for a photoetched set
in true Tamiya fashion but I do find their 1:48 kits overly simplified from someone like Hauler will be worth it.
Hornet 1:35 Head sets HH 37 HGH 27

It's a pleasure to see Hornet adding to their
range of their famous heads, the quality is
still unsurpassed after many years of
service! HH36 are bare 'unkempt' heads
with beards suitable for LRDG crew for
example or Robinson Crusoe! HH37 are
bald heads, European features with a good
selection of expressions. HGH 26 is a set of
three heads of WWII panzer crew in
schiffken caps with a set of separate resin HGH 26 HH 36
headphone straps and throat mic (will need
very careful removal from the resin block)
and HGH27 an excellent set of Volkssturm
youthful and older characters with a mixture
of headgear. Hornet's legendary quality
continues - www.hornetandwolf.com with
Historex Agents are longstanding UK
distributor to whom our thanks for the
samples. www.historexagents.com
AK Interactive
Two new large-bottled primers from AKI, simply basic
black and white. I’ve found these to airbrush very Inside the Armour 1:35 Decals
smoothly (best with a little of AK’s thinner) and ‘bite’
A nicely produced set of 1:35 decals here to suit British vehicles in Russian
very well to plastic resin or metal. A good stable base
service covering matilda, Valentine, Churchill and even a Universal Carrier.
coat available in a good range of colours. Also another
The decals are contained in a A5 booklet with very comprehensive plans
in their boxed set of colours which are ready to
and information, the large turret markings have a nice in-scale hand
airbrush- ‘German War Colors’ covers dunkelgrau and
52 applied look. 35087D is the code to search for at
three-tone camo patterns. Top quality paints all round
www.insidethearmour.com
www.ak-interactive.com
EA35-093
E35-192
E35-183
E35-184 E35-195
ET Model Detail Sets

The steady release from China's E.T. continues, they never
fail to impress and keep up with newly released kits at an
alarming rate. One recent kit to get the treatment is
Meng's Gaz 'Tiger' with a couple of sensible etched frets
containing finely detailed ammo cans, number plates and
smaller details. A woven steel tow cable is also included,
reference is E35-184. If you really want to go to town on
your Tiger, E35-195 is a set of interior details, along with
the expected finer handles etc is the full framework and
ammunition stowage for the 12.7mm. Another recent kit is
the Hobbyboss T-26, being a delicate light tank in 1:35
these two frets (E35-183) will be a nice addition and
include full mudguards and stowage boxes. Next this
weighty set E35-192 will give the Tamiya M1A2 SEP MBT
TUSK the ultimate make-over with no less than fifteen
etched frets and resin pieces, woven steel tow cables and
turned metal antennae bases- not a set to be taken lightly
then! An alternative if you're after a quick fix for the Tamiya
'TUSK' EA35-093 consisting of the engine deck mesh and
turret baskets. Top quality upgrades from E.T., take a look
at their huge range at www.etmodeller.com.
Lifecolor sets
Two new Pigment and Colour sets
aimed at armour modellers from
Lifecolor. 'Dust' and 'Mud' each contain
three paint colours and three pigment
powders with specifics such as
'Eastern European dust'. Both the
acrylics and pigments can be mixed
together to produce subtle variations in
finish as well as texture. Ideal for any
armour project and the closely
matched colours and pigments in the
dust set should be a big help in
getting a unified finish. Lifecolor
products are distributed in the UK by
the helpful folk at the Airbrush 53
Company www.airbrushes.com
MiniArt 1:35 Ardennes Building

MiniArt's series of buildings provide the diorama builder an detail is excellent with subtle textures but our samples have a few
excellent choice of excellent subjects, many of which thankfully tiny air bubbles creating small ‘pips’ on the surface, albeit very
are in an undamaged state. This building is indeed typical of the easy to remove. The usual generic injection moulded sprues
Ardennes area but would suit equally as well any part of Northern appear again supplying drain pipes, doors and fixtures and a
Europe over the last couple of hundred years. The usual format of specific set to produce the staircase. These kits provide a simple
the range is followed with the main walls and roof supplied as way to complex structures and have an advantage over plaster
vac-formed sheet requiring trimming out, not difficult and the casts as they're very lightweight. Highly recommended.
MiniArt 1:35 Ruined Factory

with Base
Another highly detailed instant diorama which would suit any plenty of spares along with the parts specific to this scene. A
Western European or indeed Russian scene. The elements are couple of hours assembly should see this ready to paint, very time
nicely composed, the building corner can be used with or without and cost effective all round- another excellent set! www.miniart-
the section of ducting and the paved base is large enough to models.com has details of the full range and very good painting
carry a Panzer III or T34. Again, some generic sprues will provide guides in a step-by-step pictorial format.
Dragon 1:35 5cm PaK38 (Sf) auf Zugkraftwagen 1t

Another 1 tonner to add to Dragon's collection, these field exposed gearbox, the base vehicle still sports it's folded hood and
modified vehicles were used by Waffen SS units on the Eastern frame (also provided as optional photoetched parts) The PaK 38 is
front to provide some make-shift mobile anti-tank firepower or course the vintage Dragon kit with much of the single sprue
mounting the PaK 38. As we'd expect, DML have combined unused and a new cradle provided. New ammo storage boxes are
sprues from previous releases and added some bespoke parts. also provided but the lack of any shells or empty cases is a bit of
The basic zugkraftwagen vehicle is a very detailed but a an oversight. A revised gun would have been welcome as this one
demanding build (as we saw with our feature in issue 60) with lacks the ‘sparkle’ of the newer elements. So, packed (or should
delicate suspension components and minute track links which that be PaKed?) with detail but tricky kits to build although
come de-sprued but do have fine ejector marks on the inner ultimately worth the effort, this particular version would look
54 surface. A basic engine is included but not something you'll be superb with an 'in-action' crew as the box art depicts but you will
able to display with the new armoured bonnet and grille covers have to provide this.
which are very well done. The cab interior is well detailed with
Churchill Tank 1941-56 (all models) By Nigel Montgomery

Haynes Owners’ Workshop Manual A4 hardback format, 160 pages
Published by Haynes Publishing
ISBN 978-085733-232-5 www.haynes.co.uk
This is another of the excellent Haynes workshop manual guides campaigns where the Churchill was deployed from Dieppe
with this one focussed on the Churchill tank. This is an excellent through to Korea with some interesting first hand accounts.
concise study of the tank written by Nigel Montgomery who has Chapter four looks at the anatomy of the tank with all manner of
restored his own Churchill to full working order and begins with a useful technical details and diagrams with some valuable info right
look at the history of the tank’s development and an outline of the down to photos of the crew headphones and coms equipment.
different production marks and how to distinguish them. The The next chapter covers the author’s restoration which is just
weapons are examined in detail with information on the twin fascinating and there is also a section on service and
Vickers PLM anti-aircraft mount which was new to me. Useful info maintenance and another on operating it with advice on how to
and photos of the different ammunition types and even the Rota drive one and more first hand accounts from the men who fought
trailer gets a mention. Chapter two looks at the Funnies and in them. The book is extremely accessible, well illustrated and
specialised armour which covers the Toad and ARV as well as the informative and highly recommended for Churchill fans.
familiar Hobart vehicles. The next chapter covers the different
MK35
Always to be relied upon by the
diorama builder, France's MK35
produce a terrific range of civilian
figures and accessories and have
sent us a couple of their latest
releases. A103 is a set of French
roadsigns in resin with printed facias
to apply. F235 is a seated figure in
dungarees with the armchair
included in nicely cast resin, a great
character who would also suit more
modern scenes. F230 depicts an SS
Unterscharführer in the Ardennes
campaign leaning casually with
crossed legs with a beautifully cast A103 is a useful set of French road signs suitable for the World War
MP44 slung over his shoulder. Two period. Resin signs and ‘I’ beam posts are provided, four
www.mk35.com has details of the square and four triangular together with a printed sheet for the
extensive range. artwork which comes with a guide to each sign in case you cannot
work them out! Simple but very effective!
Scanphoto Interactive DVD

German Tank Interiors Part 2
Panther, Tiger I and B, Elephant
Requires Adobe Reader 6 or higher (free to download) PC
and Mac compatable www.afv-interiors.com
This second interactive DVD focusses on the German big cats and The author's unlimited access to these vehicles gives us
variants namely Panther Ausf.A and G, bergepanther, Jagdpanther information rarely seen in such detail with the interactive 360
(late) Tiger I, Sturmtiger, Kingtiger, Jagdtiger and Elephant. The degree views allowing a virtual 'look around' with superb lighting
beauty of the format is the multi-media mix of archive film footage and clarity. Plenty of informative text gives general background to
from the School of Tank Technology (Swedish narration ?) which is the vehicles and focuses also on more detailed aspects such as
great to watch tanks of the period tackling numerous tests, plans sighting equipment and components removed during restoration.
and photographs. The vehicles studied are an excellent mix of An absolute wealth of reference information to any German 55
contemporary restorations as well as original condition survivors armour modeller, much of which you'd be hard pushed to find
with the main focus being on the interiors as the title suggests. anywhere else. Highly recommended.
...another defeat in the East
56
Franck Bazin creates an image of Germany’s desperate

struggle during the closing stages of the war
Hungary - March 1945

The German army launched Operation
"Frühlingserwachen" (Spring Awakening),
a last great offensive which aimed to
free the area around Lake Balaton from
the Russian hold and secure a region
containing the last of the Third Reich's
oil reserves.
Thawing roads and poor weather
conditions greatly hampered or
paralysed the movement of Axis troops
while giving an advantage to the Soviet
defence that was spread out in depth.
As in previous offensives around
Budapest (Operations ''Konrad I'',
''Konrad II'' and ''Konrad Konrad III''), this
attack failed and the German-Hungarian
troops were once again forced to retreat
in dire conditions and under the
pressure of Soviet troops who launched
a counter-attack as early as 16 March in
''Operation Vienna".
It is such a climate of sheer debacle
that this diorama is intended to depict.
A small group of soldiers have taken
over a cart of Russian origin and are
trying to move along the roads
devastated by the thaw and the
elements. The road is littered with
wrecks and other damaged vehicles like
the Opel Olympia car strafed by enemy
aircraft which eventually fell into the
ditch.
Progress is slow and difficult but all of a
sudden a Hetzer attached to the 20th
Hungarian Infantry Division appears and
clearly its crew does not intend to slow
down and be stopped by any obstacle
whatsoever...
57
The Opel Olympia Model 1937 (Bronco)
The Bronco model (Ref 35054) is very finely moulded and the detail is
good. The model was built almost "from the box" here. While the
instructions are fairly clear, one must be careful and not mount the
rear seat backrest (part A32, Step 3) as per the instructions provided;
you may have problems to fit this part to the hole provided for this
purpose (parts A34 and A33 steps 5 and 6). It is best to attach this
part once the interior has been painted and weathered and is ready to
be closed. Building was split into several sub-assemblies to facilitate
the painting stages.
Detailing of the interior was completed by adding some lining to the

roof made from a sheet of Duro. The rivets were done with a punch
and die set. The
upholstery on the roof
and doors was painted
with a coat of Tamiya
acrylic XF-57 "Buff"
before several washes
of "Burnt Umber" oil were
applied to highlight the
recesses. Some details
were picked out with
acrylics. Some
accessories were made
or altered using Duro to
clutter the back seat
and the passenger seat.
The seats were then
fixed after painting.
Accessories and seats were painted with finish was really good but also revealed a
acrylics separately before fixing them to few imperfections that had to be removed
the inside of the vehicle. Metal parts were before applying a second coat of Tamiya
enhanced with a graphite pencil (2B) Panzer Grey XF-63 on the outer surfaces of
Weathering of the car was carried out on the car body only. The final painting stage
the entire body with washes of oil paint consisted of fine camouflage swirls of very
diluted with lighter fluid. Two colours were diluted XF-60 "Dark yellow" paint applied
used primarily : "Burnt Umber" and "Black". with an airbrush set at a very low pressure.
This is a very important stage to give a first I scratchbuilt a new bumper with a piece of
illusion of depth to the paintwork. aluminium foil using the plastic part as a
Note the inside of the doors frames where template.
remnants of the original blue civilian paint The effects of dust / mud were obtained
remain as I wanted to show a civilian with a light mist of AK "Africa dust effects"
vehicle that had been requisitioned. The on the underbody and the windshield. This
model was first covered with a base coat light film was removed in places with a fine
of Tamiya XF-8 "Flat Blue" mixed brush moistened with white spirit to give
with a bit of gloss varnish; the resulting the effect of rain streaks on the body.
58
The horse-drawn cart (Master Box)

Throughout the war, the German Army made from plastic card and balsa wood the tarp was dry.
used horse-drawn transport extensively. and metal rods for different poles and All the accessories are of different origin
There is an abundance of archive images hooks. Finding detailed reference on (Dragon Historex, Tamiya, Italeri) except
showing this in contrast to the view often German horse-drawn carriages and carts for a few that had to be scratchbuilt.
conveyed in the scale model world. The was not easy. A lot of time with books and Some items received extra detailing, like
theme of this diorama was perfect for on the internet was needed to compare the Tamiya bicycle for which a LIONROAR
such an endeavour, and there was pictures and understand how horses were set (ref LE35065) came in handy. The
additional motivation now that a few connected to the carts and wagons. wagon was painted in a grey base colour
brands offer models of carts. The kit used Here the problem was to represent a (Tamiya Acrylics again). It was weathered
here is by Master Box and comes with the Russian type cart drawn by a team of with various oil washes (Burnt Umber or
evocative name "Road to the Rear" (ref horses with typical German harnesses. black + lighter fluid) to make the wood
MB3558). This is certainly not ''Tamiya Thus, the draw bars had to be scratchbuilt grain stand out and the metal parts look
quality'', as every single part had (plastic profiles and copper wire) as the kit rusty. The paint wearing off the wood was
prominent moulding marks that required a parts (A/4 and A/27) were too heavy. created with Prince August PA 819 "Iraqi
lot of sanding work, but for a small fee you The seat was also homemade and left Sand'' paint. Some of the scuffing was
get a cart and two horses with correct removable for easy painting. The tarp was later enhanced with a lighter shade of
proportions, as well as 5 figures with made of "AB Putty" which became very grey, done with a soft brush.
suitable poses. hard when dry, and once it was fixed As with the other vehicle, a final dusting
To begin with, the cart was assembled on the hoops, it could be removed easily was applied with a wash (AK 022 "Africa
according to the kit instructions before it which made painting much easier. The dust effects).
was customized by adding side panels eyelets on the tarp were pre-drilled before
To break uniformity and create a more was installed permanently after the fixing
messy look, a tint of red was added to of all elements to the diorama. The eyelets
some of the wood planks and they were were made from a plastic disc and with a
subsequently weathered with scratches of punch and die set, fitted into the locations
ochre and grey acrylics. The canvas was and then pierced.
painted last with Prince August acrylics and
59
Horse Play
The first horse has his neck bent toward the ground to
suggest a feeling of exhaustion. The moulded harness on
the animal was ground off, and some body parts
were sculpted with Magic Sculp. The second horse has a
more fearful attitude; ears pointing back and extending
his neck and throwing his head forward as if it was
whinnying. All grey parts (neck, mane, muzzle, ears,
joints, head ....) were created with Magic Sculp, the
green parts (Teeth, tongue, loops) from Duro (or Green
Stuff). After careful study of reference pictures and
documents gleaned on the Internet, all the harness
equipment was made with Duro, lead or aluminium foil
and loops from various electrical wire sections.
The horse’s manes were then carved and expert on horses, I studied the work of
so the detailing of both animals was some figure painters and special
complete. The painting was done with references were very much needed
Prince August acrylics. To expand the (thanks to the Internet here too).
chromatic range in the diorama, I chose
two very different colourings. Not being an
Figures- the story tellers

The figures that populate the diorama were sourced
from various brands : Master Box provided the two
cart drivers while two passengers are Dragon
figures. The hooded sniper and the Hungarian
tanker were both scratchbuilt. Both drivers were
modified with sculpted winter uniforms, Hornet
heads and modifications to their poses to suit the
scene.
The sniper who is waving at the Hungarian tank
commander to calm down is a scratchbuilt effort so
as to make him the vehicle. The head comes from
the Hornet head range and his shoes are Master
Box parts while the rest of his equipment is Dragon.
The painting was done with Prince August acrylics. I
tried to use the technique developed by Joaquin
Garcia Gazquez after seeing his work at the
Saumur Show in June 2011. Unfortunately, I cannot
expand on the painting much having failed to take
relevant notes of all the colours used.
The other passengers are based on
Dragon figures with slight
modifications and Hornet heads
60
Hungarian Hetzer came with the Dragon kit. The muffler was angles to determine the shape and
detailed by adding clamps and bolts and location of the various tones. Unless you
This is the old Dragon kit (No. 6060) which the tow rope is twisted electrical wire. wish to work with a brush to achieve this
today is still a very solid base. The level of Finally, the tracks were best replaced by a kind of camouflage, you have no other
detail is certainly not up to the current Modelkasten set that provides enough options than to use masks. After the green
standards of this manufacturer, however, parts to replace the spare track links as base coat was airbrushed, the entire
as the photos before painting show, with a well; these must be handled with great surface of the model was covered with
minimum of work it can be turned into an care during the painting stages and when Tamiya masking tape. The swirls in the
accurate representation of this small set in their final positions as they are pattern were then drawn with a pencil
armoured vehicle. The bulk of the work lies extremely delicate plastic parts that do not according to the period photos and next
with the mudguards as these were entirely take heavy handling well. The kit skirts the tape was removed from the model and
scratchbuilt using aluminium foil cut out were refined by sanding, as well as their the various parts were cut out carefully.
from a food tray; this is cheap, fine and is attachment points. At this stage they were
flexible enough to allow a series of ribs to not permanently glued to make painting These were then repositioned in sequence
be scribed which were typically found on and adding the tracks easier. based on the colour that was to be
38T and Hetzers. To make the assembly sprayed. Needless to tell that this was a
sturdy enough, two plastic brackets were The paint scheme was inspired by a photo very tedious task which required a lot of
rebuilt from the kit parts as these were too of a Hungarian machine abandoned during attention and care. Once the colours have
thick for scale originally. An Aber photoetch Operation "Spring Awakening". This vehicle been airbrushed, any necessary
set that offers several types of German tool has a hard-edged camouflage scheme corrections can be made with a fine brush
fasteners (ref: 35 A20) was used. The jack with "T-038" , the letter "T" corresponding to with "Prince August" paints such as PA 985
was taken from a Tamiya accessory set, a the first letter of the name of the Major for brown and PA 885 for green. If the
very handy and useful source to upgrade General commanding the 20th Hungarian above method appears too complicated to
old kits ! All handles were made with wire Infantry Division : Tilger Ferenc. The model use, pre-cut masks are now available from
for more finesse. The photoetched grille was painted with Tamiya acrylics, XF-71 "J’s Workmodel" which should make things
"Cockpit Green" (+ gloss) for the green easier! Weathering was a time-consuming
basecoat, XF-68 "Nato Brown" for the build-up of oil paint washes and AK
brown blotches, a mixture of XF-2 "Flat Interactive’s ‘Africa Dust Effects’. The
White "and XF-60" Dark Yellow "for the running gear was blended into the
yellow sand. This hard-edge camouflage groundwork once in position with real earth
pattern was factory applied and it is mixed with PVA, wetter mud was achieved
necessary to carefully study several photos with oil paint.
showing the same design from multiple
61
Groundwork
The scenery may look fairly straightforward

at first glance. A rectangle base was used
to accommodate of piece of dirt road with
a ditch in the foreground and the edge of a
grove in the background. The shapes were
formed with several sheets of insulation
foam. It was covered with a mixture of
sieved soil and wood glue into which many
footprints were imprinted. It was a tricky
stage since many of these track marks
were to be covered with different vehicles
and in some areas, the fit had to be
perfect to ensure a strong bond.
The tree, a birch, was scratchbuilt with a

piece of plastic sprue for the trunk while
the branches were made with "Zeechium"
material or twisted electrical wire which
were then fleshed out with Magic Sculp
and Mr. Surfacer diluted with acetone to
make them stick together firmly. It was
then painted with a brush with Prince
August acrylics. Again studying the colours
of a real tree was essential to make it look
authentic.
62
Vegetation was created using "Joefix"

products and other natural vegetation, and
the leaves were simulated with real birch
catkins collected from the garden. The
different mud hues were obtained with
various oil washes ("Sienna", "Burnt Umber")
and AK 016 "Fresh Mud". Puddles were
made with transparent resin. It looks
simple in design, but integrating several
vehicles including a carriage and a team of
horses was more complex to achieve than
I anticipated because of the many different
elements (vehicles, figurines, horses,
painting camouflage, vegetation....) and
techniques used.
The key was careful planning of the various

sequences and construction steps to avoid
unpleasant surprises in the final assembly
stage. In the end, it was a very rewarding
endeavour, both on a technical and
historical level. Although this work is far
from perfect, I hope it might inspire you to
tackle such a project.
63

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Issue 73 cover_Issue 26 cover 10/10/2013 11:19 Page 1

THE VERY BEST IN SCALE ARMOUR MODELLING

20 “In der Falle” Part One

28 Target Tortoise Part Two

56 Operation Frühlingserwachen - another defeat in the East

AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by

It seems like most modellers building German

When plan a new project I search for unique

and filters. I use black primer for its

I chose to paint the base colour with

Now the model starts to resemble a real

Camouflage Black Brown and 70950 Black

It was now time for detailing. I started with

I wanted the wooden plank on the rear

DAVE OLIVER MODELS

HULL AND TURRET

The photoetch gives the kit’s .50cal the

The bead holding the mantle cover in

The side skirts were thinned down in

The hull then had the stowage

WHEELS AND TRACKS

PAINTING AND WEATHERING

GROUNDWORK AND BUILDINGS

DIY Designing Photoetched Parts

group objects etc so that they can be

"In der Falle?"

PART ONE • Modelled by Robert Doepp

Construction joints of the frame. Therefore I tried to find a

To open the toolbox on

The hand shift lever system was

The fully detailed sidecar frame.

The 15 t jack of the early "Panther" series was

While already disassembling the treatment. To enable this after

The completed Zündapp broken down into its

Photos courtesy of Peter Breakspear ©

Part two of the Target Tortoise and it is time to

After the initial stages of painting with the

The final challenge was to present the

David Parker builds the Meng A39 Tortoise

Photos courtesy of Peter Breakspear ©

Modelled and described by Radek Pituch

were made of a kind of fire-retardant material so not

Painting of the turret numbers was done in two ways.

achieve a overly natural look of a figure. In

shades in the lower ones. By doing this

All in all the I had a lot of fun with this

Dragon 1:35 M48A3 Mod.B

Accurate Armour Micro Saws

Stalingrad 1:35 figures

Stalingrad marches on Berlin with this

Two more beautiful Tommy's War figures to

Dragon 1:35 Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf.D DAK

MiniArt 1:35 AEC Mk.I Armoured Car

MiniArt 1:35 AEC Mk.II Armoured Car

MiniArt 1:35 MiniArt 1:35 German Tank

MiniArt 1:35 'Market Garden' MiniArt 1:35 Hungarian

Another scenario based on period photographs is this grouping

Dragon 1:35 SAS 1/4-ton 4x4 Patrol Car

Tamiya 1:35 JGSDF Type 10 Tank

Tamiya 1:35 M561 Gama Goat

Meng 1:35 FT-17

Takom 1:16 Renault FT-17

Tamiya 1:48 Russian Armoured Car BA-64B