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G4271B Cosmetic and Toiletry Retailing in Australia Industry Report
G4271B Cosmetic and Toiletry Retailing in Australia Industry Report
G4271B Cosmetic and Toiletry Retailing in Australia Industry Report
Contents
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About IBISWorld
IBISWorld specializes in industry research with coverage on thousands of global industries. Our comprehensive
data and in-depth analysis help businesses of all types gain quick and actionable insights on industries around
the world. Busy professionals can spend less time researching and preparing for meetings, and more time
focused on making strategic business decisions that benefit you,your company and your clients. We offer
research on industries in the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Germany, the UK, Ireland, China and Mexico,
as well as industries that are truly global in nature.
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Covid-19
Coronavirus IBISWorld's analysts constantly monitor the industry impacts of current events in
real-time – here is an update of how this industry is likely to be impacted as a result
Impact Update of the global COVID-19 pandemic:
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Fragrances
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Supply Chain
SIMILAR INDUSTRIES
Cosmetics, Perfume and Online Shopping in Australia Cosmetics and Toiletry Pharmacies in Australia
Toiletries Manufacturing in Wholesaling in Australia
Australia
Beauty, Cosmetics & Perfume & Fragrance Stores Online Perfume & Cosmetic Pharmacies & Drugstores in
Fragrance Stores in the US Sales China
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Industry at a Glance
Key Statistics Key External Drivers % = 2016-2021 Annual Growth
$4.3bn 1.4%
Female population aged 18 and older
0.3%
Real household discretionary income
Revenue
0.2% 2.4%
Annual Growth Annual Growth Annual Growth Consumer sentiment index Demand from supermarkets and grocery
stores
2016-2021 2021-2026 2016-2026
-2.8% 11.8%
Demand from department stores Demand from online shopping
0.2% 1.7%
Industry Structure
$192.6m
Profit POSITIVE IMPACT
Annual Growth Annual Growth
Capital Intensity Concentration
2016-2021 2016-2026 Low Low
3.6%
MIXED IMPACT
NEGATIVE IMPACT
3,900
Businesses Industry Assistance Competition
None High
Annual Growth Annual Growth Annual Growth
2016-2021 2021-2026 2016-2026
Key Trends
-0.3% -0.7%
The local prices of global brands have fallen, bringing them
more in line with international levels
-1.9% -0.7%
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STRENGTHS
Low Imports
High Profit vs. Sector Average
Low Customer Class Concentration
Low Capital Requirements
WEAKNESSES
Medium & Decreasing Barriers to Entry
None & Steady Level of Assistance
High Competition
High Product/Service Concentration
Low Revenue per Employee
OPPORTUNITIES
High Revenue Growth (2016-2021)
High Performance Drivers
Demand from supermarkets and grocery
stores
THREATS
Very Low Revenue Growth (2005-2021)
Low Revenue Growth (2021-2026)
Real household discretionary income
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These developments have supported industry growth over the past five years.
However, the COVID-19 pandemic has interrupted this growth, with the temporary
closure of many cosmetic stores underlying a revenue contraction in 2019-20.
While most consumers are expected to return to stores in 2020-21, supporting
revenue growth of 2.1%, the nature of instore shopping experiences will likely
change. The COVID-19 pandemic appears to have marked the end of instore
cosmetic testers and associated touch-and-try marketing strategies. Overall,
industry revenue is expected to grow by an annualised 0.2% over the five years
through 2020-21, to $4.3 billion, due to the negative effects of the COVID-19
pandemic.
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Industry Performance
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The COVID-19 outbreak is the latest challenge for the industry, with many stores
temporarily closing due to lockdown restrictions and social distancing measures in
March 2020, and in August 2020 for stores located in Victoria. A drastic fall in
customer numbers and the temporary suspension of paid in-store services, such as
in-store makeovers, due to health concerns and contagion risks also contributed to
a revenue decline in 2019-20. Changed consumption patterns during the pandemic
have also affected revenue. For example, stay-at-home and social distancing
restrictions have increased demand for at home-beauty and pamper treatments,
while mandatory face mask requirements have seen increased demand for above-
the-mask products such as eye make-up, but lower demand for lipsticks. These
factors have weakened industry revenue growth. Industry revenue is anticipated to
rise at an annualised 0.2% over the five years through 2020-21, to total $4.3 billion.
However, revenue is expected to rise by 2.1% in the current year, as industry
operators attempt to partially regain lost ground, while also adopting to the new
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operating environment for beauty retailing. For example, the COVID-19 pandemic
has essentially ended conventional instore cosmetic testers due to potential
contagion risks. The pandemic has also driven many cosmetics consumers online
to websites hosted by pureplay cosmetic online rivals outside the industry.
Modest growth
Volatile consumer sentiment has reflected consumer purchasing patterns over the
past five years. The growing range of private-label, mass-market and discounted
parallel import products has attracted value-conscious consumers. In particular, the
cheap product offerings of many online retailers have drawn consumers away from
traditional bricks-and-mortar stores. Supermarkets and lower end department
stores have also been offering mass-market cosmetic and personal-care products
at attractive prices, drawing consumers away from specialty cosmetic stores.
These trends have adversely affected the volume of products sold through mass-
market industry stores.
The local prices of many key global brands have fallen over the past
five years, bringing them more in line with international levels and
reducing average prices.
A flood of parallel imports and higher consumer confidence in online sales have
also reduced unit prices. Rival large-scale pharmacies and discount outlets have
been selling fragrances and cosmetics at heavily reduced prices, exacerbating this
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trend. Falling prices and growing external competition have placed downward
pressure on industry profit margins. However, industry operators have introduced
new premium products and associated beauty services with higher added value to
help offset these trends. Industry profit has therefore risen slightly over the past five
years.
Changing players
New competition
The increasing number of dedicated online cosmetic and fragrance retailers, and
general online retailers has further threatened the industry's performance over the
past five years. In addition to heavily discounted prices, online retailers can attract
consumers with offers such as free postage, gifts with purchases and discount
coupons. Many online retailers also use mobile apps for promotions. These
growing competitive forces are projected to continue in the short term, negatively
affecting the industry's operating environment.
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Year Revenue IVA Estab. Enterprises Employment Exports Imports Wages Domestic
Demand
($m) ($m) (Units) (Units) (Units) ($m) ($m) ($m) ($m)
2015–16 4,239 904 4,526 3,958 19,525 N/A N/A 688 N/A
2016–17 4,259 922 4,505 3,961 19,065 N/A N/A 667 N/A
2017–18 4,318 941 4,574 4,024 19,482 N/A N/A 660 N/A
2018–19 4,389 910 4,598 4,071 19,595 N/A N/A 659 N/A
2019–20 4,191 864 4,513 4,000 18,909 N/A N/A 637 N/A
2020–21 4,279 880 4,403 3,900 18,461 N/A N/A 626 N/A
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Industry Outlook
Outlook The operating environment for firms in the Cosmetic and Toiletry
Retailing industry is forecast to be noticeably different following the
COVID-19 pandemic.
The previous try-before-you-buy
cosmetics retail operations will be
no longer viable due to potential
contagion risk. The industry is
instead anticipated to increasingly
rely on tech-driven marketing
strategies and no-touch smart
stores. Changed consumer
behavioural patterns following the
pandemic will also influence the
products stocked by industry
operators as consumers increasingly
focus on holistic health and
wellness, and clean beauty products.
As lockdown and social distancing
measures have resulted in many
cosmetic consumers moving online
to cosmetic websites operated by
rival pure-play online cosmetic companies, changed shopping patterns will continue
to affect the industry's operating environment.
Despite these challenges, underlying economic, demographic and social trends will
benefit industry demand. Ongoing development of new hybrid and niche products, a
growing range of eco-beauty products and the rising popularity of local independent
brands are forecast to drive revenue growth. Similarly, new service-based revenue
streams will increasingly cater to consumers wanting cosmetic experiences. Future
industry success will also likely be driven by business models that reflect growing
consumer demands for sustainability, traceability and transparency. These values
have become even more important as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Industry revenue is forecast to rise at an annualised 1.7% over the five years
through 2025-26, to $4.6 billion. However, industry enterprise, establishment and
employment numbers are forecast to decline over the period. Industry profit
margins are anticipated to remain modest over the next five years, due to intense
internal and external competition.
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Green trends, and the associated eco-beauty and clean-beauty movements are also
projected to stimulate change in the industry's product portfolio over the next five
years. Some retailers will likely alter their product lines to cater to growing demand
for products containing natural or certified organic ingredients, products made from
sustainable sources or vegan ingredients, products free from various chemicals,
and products with a smaller environmental footprint. Industry firms are projected to
offer an expanding range of ethical products and products promoting biodiversity
principles over the period. Following trends occurring elsewhere in the cosmetics
and toiletries supply chain, industry retailers are anticipated to adopt new business
models and strategies based on corporate social responsibility, traceability,
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sustainability and zero waste. Cruelty-free products are anticipated to gain ground,
following the ban of cosmetic products tested on live animals from 1 July 2020.
Industry Life Cycle The life cycle stage of this industry is Mature
An ageing population and a more holistic approach to health is driving moderate revenue
growth
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The Cosmetic and Toiletry Retailing industry is currently in the mature phase of its
life cycle, as it contends with increasingly challenging operating conditions. While
several industry players are continuing to roll out stores, establishment numbers are
falling as the market matures and an increasing number of product segments reach
saturation. These trends have led to underperforming stores closing and, in some
instances, entire chains exiting the industry. Industry operators are facing intense
external competition from numerous sources, such as supermarkets, department
stores and pharmacies, which is adding to consolidation pressures. Online-only
retailers also represent an increasingly important rival for cosmetic and fragrance
sales.
Some industry product segments are still experiencing growth, driven by advances
in natural and organic product manufacturing and marketing, and new eco-beauty
brands. This product development is helping to sustain growth in an otherwise
mature industry. In recent years, demand has grown for products containing natural
and certified organic ingredients, vitamins and even probiotics. Demand has also
grown for clean beauty products free from GMOs and chemicals, such as parabens,
sulphates, phthalates and artificial preservatives, alongside cruelty-free products.
An increasing array of products and eco-beauty brands are targeting the growing
number of socially conscious consumers that consider the ethical, social and
environmental consequences of their purchasing patterns, including many younger
consumers. The ageing of the baby boomer cohort is also driving demand for many
cosmetic products, particularly those positioned as healthy-ageing products. A
more holistic approach to skin care and appearance across its customer base will
continue to benefit the industry.
Industry value added, which indicates the industry's contribution to the economy, is
forecast to grow by an annualised 0.3% over the 10 years through 2025-26. This
significantly lags real GDP growth, which is forecast to increase at an annualised
1.8% over the same period. This trend suggests that the industry is
underperforming relative to the wider economy.
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2nd Tier
Internet Service Providers in Australia
Cosmetics, Perfume and Toiletries
Manufacturing in Australia
Soap and Cleaning Compound
Manufacturing in Australia
Products and
Services
New cosmetics have been launched in all price ranges over the past
five years, reflecting constant product innovations.
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Concerns about ageing, and consumer desire for convenience and make-up on the
go have driven the creation of new products. Operators have also developed new,
instant beauty products designed to give consumers a photo-ready finish. Sales of
concealers, eyebrow make-up, mascara, lip colours and natural-look make-up
products have grown significantly over the period. Contouring and strobing beauty
trends have also stimulated product segment growth, driving sales of highlighting
and high-definition beauty products.
Sales in the skincare subsegment have also increased over the past five years.
Many new products introduced in the skincare subsegment over the past five years
have harnessed wellbeing trends, and the need for ritual and balance. This factor
has become particularly important during the COVID-19 pandemic, as home-bound
consumers have turned to do-it-yourself and at-home beauty products as part of
new at-home wellness trends. Facial oils and vitamin C serums, and face masks
have been among the fastest growing products in the skincare subsegment. In the
wake of the COVID-19 pandemic and the increased usage of hand sanitisers made
with harsh chemicals, sales of hand care products have also increased significantly
over the two years through 2020-21. These developments have partially offset
lower lipstick sales, which have been constrained by stay-at-home restrictions and
mandatory mask-wearing requirements.
Manufacturers have developed a growing range of bath and shower products over
the past five years, which aim to retain consumer interest in an otherwise mature
product segment. Furthermore, many consumers have been moving away from
liquid products and towards traditional bar soap, as upstream manufacturers
reduce their reliance on single-use plastic packaging products. During the COVID-19
pandemic, sales of prestige and luxury hand soaps spiked significantly, as
consumers emphasised personal hygiene routines. Sales of prestige nail products
have also surged in recent months, as home-bound consumers have turned to at-
home manicure rituals to maintain their nails and boost their sense of wellbeing.
The men's grooming segment has also had an influx of new products, as
companies have specifically targeted an increasingly image-conscious male
population. Companies such as L'Oreal, Clinique, Clarins and Nivea have created
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male grooming ranges that include multi-step skincare regime products, including
facial cleansers and facial moisturisers, alongside hand and body lotions.
Fragrance brands have also been extended to include moisturisers, body washes
and deodorants for men. Other new products include beard-care items such as oils
and waxes. While sales of men's shaving products have fallen over the past five
years, overall sales of men's grooming products have risen as men have taken a
greater interest in their personal appearance.
Hair-care products
Over the past five years, hair-care product sales have benefited
from salon-inspired brands, products containing particular oils,
such as argan and macadamia, and new products such as dry
shampoos.
Products containing natural ingredients and new sulphate-free products have also
stimulated some growth in an otherwise mature product segment. However,
supermarkets and discount pharmacies have continued to make inroads into the
beauty market by stocking an ever-increasing range of salon and professional
products. As a result, this segment's share of industry revenue has marginally fallen
over the past five years.
Fragrances
Demand This segment includes bath and shower products, deodorants and
Determinants talcum powders, oral hygiene products, men's grooming products,
manicure and pedicure preparations, depilatory products, sponges
and make-up tools.
This segment has increased as a share of revenue over the past five years, driven
by new products and changing consumer behavioural patterns during the COVID-19
pandemic.
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Manufacturers have developed a growing range of bath and shower products over
the past five years, which aim to retain consumer interest in an otherwise mature
product segment. Furthermore, many consumers have been moving away from
liquid products and towards traditional bar soap, as upstream manufacturers
reduce their reliance on single-use plastic packaging products. During the COVID-19
pandemic, sales of prestige and luxury hand soaps spiked significantly, as
consumers emphasised personal hygiene routines. Sales of prestige nail products
have also surged in recent months, as home-bound consumers have turned to at-
home manicure rituals to maintain their nails and boost their sense of wellbeing.
The men's grooming segment has also had an influx of new products, as
companies have specifically targeted an increasingly image-conscious male
population. Companies such as L'Oreal, Clinique, Clarins and Nivea have created
male grooming ranges that include multi-step skincare regime products, including
facial cleansers and facial moisturisers, alongside hand and body lotions.
Fragrance brands have also been extended to include moisturisers, body washes
and deodorants for men. Other new products include beard-care items such as oils
and waxes. While sales of men's shaving products have fallen over the past five
years, overall sales of men's grooming products have risen as men have taken a
greater interest in their personal appearance.
Major Markets
Households are the primary market for the Cosmetic and Toiletry Retailing industry.
However, the industry can be further segmented on the basis of age. These markets
tend to remain stable on a year-by-year basis, with small changes occurring in line
with changing discretionary expenditure patterns. Sustained demand for new
cosmetic products and brands from all market segments has supported the
industry's revenue performance over the past five years. For example, demand has
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People aged 35 to 54
People aged 35 to 54 are the industry's largest market, accounting for 44.1% of
industry revenue in the current year. An increasing array of products have targeted
this cohort over the past five years, many of which are designed to address
concerns regarding ageing. Many consumers in this category have a high capacity
for discretionary expenditure, with both male and female consumers likely to
experiment with new products targeted at them.
People aged 15 to 34
Millennial consumers are another key target market for many cosmetic retailers.
Consumers in this age group are often particularly image conscious, and likely to
spend a significant share of their discretionary income on cosmetics and toiletries.
Several cosmetic stores target millennial consumers, including Mecca Cosmetica
and Napoleon Perdis. Social media strategies also often focus on this market.
However, their actual spending power is lower relative to their older counterparts.
Consumers in this age cohort are also more likely to make their cosmetic
purchases online, seeking the best competitive prices available for international
brands not readily available at Australian retailers.
Baby boomers are generally considered the largest consumer buying group and
wield considerable spending power. Nearly 8.9 million Australians are expected to
be aged 50 and over in 2020-21, representing 33.8% of the total population.
However, many consumers in this age cohort are more likely to purchase their
cosmetics through traditional channels such as department stores, rather than
specialty cosmetic retailers. These purchasing patterns reduce this age cohort's
importance to the Cosmetic and Toiletry Retailing industry.
The industry only services the domestic market. While statistics for imports and
exports are not applicable to the industry (as they are included in the Cosmetics,
Perfume and Toiletries Manufacturing industry), imported products meet a sizeable
portion of domestic demand. In 2020-21, the upstream Cosmetics, Perfume and
Toiletries Manufacturing industry is expected to import $2.5 billion worth of
products, satisfying over 80% of domestic demand. Key imported products include
beauty, make-up and skincare preparations (worth $1.2 billion in 2019-20),
perfumes and toilet waters (roughly $479 million) and hair preparations (just over
$375 million).
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The major import sources for cosmetics and toiletry preparations are the United
States, France, the United Kingdom, Thailand and China. Import penetration varies
significantly between product segments. Import penetration is expected to be
highest in segments where products have high value-to-volume ratios, and transport
costs are therefore proportionally lower, such as for fragrances and perfumes. The
high level of imports reflects the fact that the Australian market is considered too
small to support the domestic manufacture of some products, particularly at the
upper end of the market. These problems arise because of a lack of scale and
difficulties in obtaining suitable, high-quality packaging materials in Australia.
Business
Locations Business Concentration in Australia
NT
QLD
WA
SA
NSW
ACT
VIC
The geographic distribution of the industry reflects Australia's economic, social and
demographic breakdown. In line with this, the three eastern seaboard states (New
South Wales, Victoria and Queensland) are estimated to account for over three-
quarters of industry locations. New South Wales has the largest share of cosmetic
retailers, with 34.9% of industry enterprises. Victoria follows with 23.8% of retailers,
and Queensland trails with 19.1%. These statistics reflect the higher income
associated with the consumer base of each state. They are also in line with the
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higher population concentration, with these three states accounting for 77.9% of
Australia's population.
Tasmania's share of enterprise numbers is slightly above its share of the population
base, as is Western Australia and South Australia. In contrast, the two territories are
under-represented. These proportions have remained essentially unchanged over
the past five years, despite the initial entry of new players during this time, followed
by the closure of various retail stores and chains in more recent years.
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Competitive Landscape
Market Share Concentration in this industry is Low
Concentration
The Cosmetic and Toiletry Retailing
industry has low concentration, with the
top four players accounting for less than
40% of industry revenue. This low
concentration level is despite the
existence of local retail chains, such as
Priceline and Mecca Cosmetica, and
international retail chains, such as the
Body Shop, L'Occitane, Lush and Sephora.
Industry concentration has remained
unchanged over the past five years,
despite existing and new players rolling
out stores on a nationwide basis. Low
industry concentration is forecast to
continue over the next five years.
Key Success IBISWorld identifies 250 Key Success Factors for a business. The most important for this
Factors industry are:
Ability to control stock on hand: Industry players must ensure adequate stock controls
are in place to reduce inventory costs and increase stock turnover.
Having a clear market position: Industry players must project a clear and consistent
image to attract discretionary consumer expenditure. In an age of social media and digital
beauty, this factor is becoming more important.
Production of goods currently favoured by the market: Industry players must ensure
that their product mix and pricing strategies are appropriate for their target market.
Experienced work force: Due to the industry’s customer-centric focus and reliance on
one-on-one selling techniques, shop-floor staff must be knowledgeable and experienced.
This factor is particularly important in the prestige segment of the industry.
Attractive product presentation: Store layout and stock display techniques must
encourage customers to experiment and enjoy their instore experience. Store design must
reinforce the company’s image. Retailers are anticipated to increasingly use digital displays
over the next five years.
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Cost Structure
Benchmarks
Profit
Wages
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Purchases
Depreciation
Rent
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Other Costs
Internal competition
The competitive pressure faced and the tools employed will often
vary among the various types of brands, such as mass-market
brands, prestige brands, private-label products and professional
brands.
Rising competitive pressures over the past five years have caused the reliance on
branding to grow, with brand recognition now a key variable. Advertising plays an
important role in brand recognition, with players allocating considerable resources
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Efforts to grow customer loyalty have also increased, as retailers seek to retain
their customer base. These efforts include the introduction of loyalty cards and
other reward programs and a growing emphasis on customer service. The growing
importance of customer outreach has also seen retailers offer more personalised
approaches, such as member-only events.
In the past five years, retailers have catered for the growing consumer preference
for natural, herbal or environmentally friendly products, and trends favouring
wellness. The desire for locally made products is also being catered to.
External competition
Barriers to Entry Barriers to entry in this industry are Medium and Decreasing
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Major Companies
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From its first concept store in 1997, Mecca Cosmetica stores have been designed
as intimate upmarket boutique department stores selling curated luxury beauty
brands, with a strong emphasis on product trials and customer service. The Mecca
Maxima concept store was first launched in 2010, with the brand advertising itself
as the ultimate beauty playground, selling blockbuster beauty brands. Its 553
square metre next-generation store was opened in Brisbane in September 2017.
The brand is now introducing its latest format store, which will take the form of
mega Mecca stores and represent a combined Mecca Cosmetica and Mecca
Maxima store. In November 2019, the company opened its largest store to date, at
570 square metres, in Melbourne.
Prior to 2016, Mecca Brands operated a third brand, Kit Cosmetics. Established in
2005, Kit's competitive point of differentiation was the sourcing and sale of hard-to-
get global brands of skin, hair, body care and grooming products at entry level
prices. It stocked its own range of cosmetic products, which were also sold by
Mecca Cosmetica. Mecca rebranded its Kit Cosmetics concession stores to the
Mecca in Myer banner from October 2015. In August 2020, Mecca entered the
Chinese market through a partnership with cross-border ecommerce platform
Alibaba's Tmall Global.
Financial performance
As a privately owned company, Mecca Brands has limited financial data available.
However, the company has grown exponentially over the past five years, with sales
more than doubling between 2015 and 2018 (latest data available), as the company
rolled out new stores. Ongoing product launches, new service offerings and strong
growth in internet sales have also supported overall revenue growth. In 2018,
company profit margins accounted for 3.9% of revenue, up from 2.7% in 2016.
Company revenue is expected to rise at an annualised 12.4% over the five years
through December 2021, to $515.0 million. This growth rate represents a strong
outperformance of the industry, as the company's product and service offerings
have continued to evolve in line with the changing nature of the beauty sector. This
adaptability has helped the company to sustain a loyal and growing customer base.
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AUSTRALIAN PHARMACEUTICAL
INDUSTRIES LIMITED
The Priceline chain is expected to hold significant market share in the colour
cosmetics, skincare and hair-care segments. The chain relies on exclusive product
launches and first-to-market products, which sit alongside an extensive product
range of well-known brands and mass-market products with more than 2,000
brands stocked in total. In October 2012, Priceline launched its online store, which
complements its bricks-and-mortar Priceline operations and stocks over 10,000
products. A revamped website was later launched in 2015. In addition, API has
launched mobile phone applications and introduced multimedia screens instore to
highlight special offers. As at February 2020, Priceline had 8.9 million members in
its Sister Club loyalty program, making it one of Australia's largest loyalty programs.
Its Sister Club program was relaunched in 2017, with further changes made to the
program over 2018 and 2019. Priceline is now rolling out its next-generation stores,
which include dedicated playground areas for its beauty products and differentiated
product offerings. The company is currently implementing a more selective product
and category range to improve profit margins. Priceline rolled out its click-and-
collect options in 2019-20, which have been expanded to 333 stores. A click-and-
deliver service was launched in March 2020 following the outbreak of COVID-19,
with 85 company stores participating. Priceline employs more than 650 beauty
advisors.
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Financial performance
API has contended with a difficult retail trading environment over the past five
years, characterised by restrained consumer expenditure, heavy discounting and
intensifying competition. Total register sales have fallen for the combined Priceline
and Priceline Pharmacy network over the period, despite new store openings. In
2019-20, gross profit for the company's total retail totalled $204.0 million on retail
register sales of $1.08 billion. This compares with gross profit of $239.0 million on
register sales of $1.15 billion in 2016-17. Not all of this revenue is attributable to its
corporate-owned stores.
Growth in API's industry-specific revenue over the past five years has been
constrained by the move to convert company-owned Priceline stores to franchised
Priceline Pharmacy stores. As these franchised stores are now considered
pharmacies rather than cosmetic retailers, their revenue is no longer included in the
industry. In addition, several company-owned stores were closed in locations where
rental costs were deemed too high in 2017-18. Additional stores were closed in
2019-20, including those in CBD locations affected by the dramatic decline in
footfall traffic following the COVID-19 outbreak. API's industry-specific revenue is
expected to contract at an annualised 6.5% over the five years through August 2021,
to $265.0 million, underperforming the overall industry over the period.
Other Players Various international players are present in the Australian market, operating a range
of niche cosmetic stores. Due to a lack of readily available financial information,
some market shares have been estimated on the basis of store numbers. None of
these players are expected to have a market share exceeding 5%.
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Calling itself the original ethical retailer, the Body Shop is a well-known global brand
with over 1,200 ethically produced beauty and cosmetic products. About 65% of the
company's products contain community trade ingredients, which the company
claims to be unique in the cosmetics sector. The group is currently reasserting its
position as a socially engaged brand through its Enrich Not Exploit commitment,
which was launched in February 2016. In 2018, the group submitted a petition
signed by 8.3 million people to the United Nations supporting its Forever Against
Animal testing in cosmetics campaign. Like its main rivals, the Body Shop is
focusing on its instore experience while also enhancing its omni-channel presence.
The group's Return.Recycle.Repeat program is on offer in Australian stores.
Internationally, the Body Shop has just under 2,900 stores (of which 1,866 are
franchised stores) in 69 countries. It also operates ecommerce sites in 36
countries, with ecommerce sales accounting for 7.0% of company sales in 2018. In
September 2017, the Body Shop group was sold to Brazilian cosmetics
manufacturer Natura Cosmeticos, which is working on the Body Shop brand. The
company has undertaken a more activist approach and optimised its retail network,
leading to the closure of 170 retail stores since December 2017. It has recently
opened its first Activist Makers' Workshop concept store in London, with the new
concept store to be rolled out across its global portfolio. The Body Shop generated
about 13% of Natura's revenue in 2019. Other international brands owned by Natura
include Aesop and Avon.
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MY BEAUTY SPOT
The Napoleon Perdis Group has posted weak revenue growth over the past five
years. Company revenue totalled $95.4 million in 2017-18, up only slightly from
$92.2 million in 2013-14. The prestige brand signed an exclusive agreement with
discount health and beauty retailer Priceline in June 2018, after severing its
partnership with David Jones. It was also set to exit over 240 independent partner
accounts in 2018-19 as part of its new strategic direction, which also involved
growing sales through various ecommerce platforms, including its own website,
which was launched in September 2018.
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In December 2011, Jurlique was sold to Japanese cosmetics company Pola Orbis
Holdings for $335.0 million. First founded in 1929, Pola Orbis is in the top five
cosmetic companies in Japan and the top 20 global cosmetic companies. In 2018,
the company focused on restaging the Jurlique brand, which has included
redesigning packaging and launching new product lines, including its anti-ageing-
care herbal recovery range. In the following year, it launched a new product series
based on rose extracts developed in-house. It is now focusing on its hero skin care
products, as it seeks to reduce its product range following a structural review. In
August 2020, the company launched a moisturising hand sanitizer product.
Approximately one-third of Jurlique sales were derived from the local market in
2019. However, sales fell by 19% relative to 2018, as the company moved away
from wholesale orders in favour of its directly operated stores. Sales to Hong Kong
and China accounted for a further one-third, with travel retail and sales in the
Japanese, United States and other international markets accounting for the
balance. Australian sales fell by a further 46.6% in the first three quarters of 2020
following the outbreak of COVID-19.
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Operating Conditions
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The rate of new patent technologies entering the industry is low, which limits the
potential for innovations. A low rate does not mean that innovations cannot occur,
just that the likelihood of some innovation materializing as a threat is lower.
However, the concentration of technologies is high in this industry. This suggests
that industry operators have exposure to potentially unforeseen areas of innovation.
The industry structure creates a moderate level of entry barriers, which is coinciding
with a high rate of new competitors entering the industry. This high rate of entry
creates a significant pool of potentially disruptive entities and the industry structure
does not significantly affect their growth potential.
Major market segments for industry operators are relatively diversified. The spread
of market segments suggests that there are limited entry points other than those
already served my incumbent operators.
Digital technologies have also been giving rise to new digital cosmetic brands,
disrupting the traditional beauty sector. Consumers can now experience cosmetic
brands in new ways, including through augmented reality mirrors. Additionally,
social media platforms are allowing consumers to have a direct and interactive
relationship with a cosmetic brand owner. Consumers can now also share their
looks and experiences. Some cosmetic brands are using social media channels as
marketing and sales channels, promoting this new business model.
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A dramatic rise in online cosmetic sales has significantly affected the industry.
Online sales of toiletries, cosmetics and fragrances are continuing to grow in
Australia and are expected to increase significantly in the future. A growing number
of cosmetic retailers are therefore launching online social media platforms. While
some operators have established websites designed to increase customer
awareness, a growing number are transitioning to clicks-and-mortar operations,
with ecommerce platforms supporting their traditional retail outlet operations. For
example, Body Shop, Lush, Jurlique and L'Occitane products can be purchased
online through dedicated company websites. At the same time, higher online sales
from rival online beauty stores also represent a growing competitive threat to the
industry.
Note: Revenue growth and decline reflective of 5-year annualized trend. Y-axis is in
logarithmic scale. Y-axis crosses at long-run GDP. X-axis crosses at high volatility
threshold.
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The relative prices of cosmetics and toiletries also influence the industry's
performance. Prices are currently being pushed downwards by growing competitive
pressures and price harmonisation strategies. Changing fashion trends and
consumer purchasing patterns can also influence industry volatility. For example,
purchasing patterns can move towards organic cosmetics or those not tested on
animals. The COVID-19 pandemic is also affecting purchasing patterns. Temporary
store closures in March and April 2020 due to lockdown restrictions forced many
cosmetic consumers online to cosmetic websites operated by rival pure-play online
cosmetic companies, with these changed shopping patterns anticipated to persist
in the current year. The pandemic has also increased the popularity of clean or
ethical beauty brands, as consumers have changed their beauty routines due to
health and wellness trends.
The industry is also subject to legislation governing the overall Cosmetics industry.
For example, the Australian cosmetics sector is subject to mandatory labelling
requirements as set out by the Trade Practices (Consumer Product Information
Standards) (Cosmetics) Regulations 1991. Compliance with consumer product
safety and information standards is mandatory. All suppliers, including cosmetic
retailers, must meet these standards. In addition, suppliers must ensure that gods
are safe and of acceptable quality and fit for any disclosed purpose to ensure
compliance with the statutory guarantees provided under Australian Consumer Law.
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placement in contact with any external part of the body, and the mouth and the
teeth. These substances are used with a view to altering the odours of the body,
changing its appearance, cleansing it, maintaining it in good condition, perfuming
and protecting it. Products are classified as therapeutic goods rather than
cosmetics when they claim to treat an ailment or modify a bodily process.
In November 2018, the Federal Government passed the Modern Slavery Act 2018.
The act, which came into force on 1 January 2019, is a new reporting requirement
for larger Australian businesses. Companies that generate an annual consolidated
revenue of at least $100.0 million will have to report on how they act to mitigate the
risks of modern slavery in their operations and supply chains. The first reports will
relate to 2018-19, with most reports being released in 2020. The NSW Government
is also considering its own state-based version of the report, which would make
businesses with consolidated annual revenue of at least $50.0 million have to
report. The NSW Modern Slavery Act 2018 was due to come into force on 1 July
2019, but was delayed for further consultation.
Relevant operators in the Cosmetic and Toiletry Retailing industry will need to
ensure that the products they sell are not manufactured using child labour,
including the use of mica in colour cosmetics and foundations. Mica mining is
currently a controversial issue due to the use of child labour in several Indian mines.
In addition, approximately one-quarter of the world's mica is sourced from illegal
Indian mines. Several global cosmetic companies are part of the Responsible Mica
Initiative, which aims to eradicate child labour and unacceptable working conditions
in the Indian mica supply chain by 2022.
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Key Statistics
Industry Data
Year Revenue IVA Estab. Enterprises Employment Exports Imports Wages Domestic
Demand
($m) ($m) (Units) (Units) (Units) ($m) ($m) ($m) ($m)
2012–13 3,945 904 4,527 3,938 20,589 N/A N/A 675 N/A
2013–14 3,950 906 4,676 4,068 20,330 N/A N/A 680 N/A
2014–15 3,999 876 4,550 3,988 20,071 N/A N/A 679 N/A
2015–16 4,239 904 4,526 3,958 19,525 N/A N/A 688 N/A
2016–17 4,259 922 4,505 3,961 19,065 N/A N/A 667 N/A
2017–18 4,318 941 4,574 4,024 19,482 N/A N/A 660 N/A
2018–19 4,389 910 4,598 4,071 19,595 N/A N/A 659 N/A
2019–20 4,191 864 4,513 4,000 18,909 N/A N/A 637 N/A
2020–21 4,279 880 4,403 3,900 18,461 N/A N/A 626 N/A
2021–22 4,377 891 4,379 3,889 18,255 N/A N/A 620 N/A
2022–23 4,455 902 4,354 3,875 18,097 N/A N/A 616 N/A
2023–24 4,508 913 4,311 3,846 17,832 N/A N/A 611 N/A
2024–25 4,574 922 4,256 3,803 17,499 N/A N/A 607 N/A
2025–26 4,644 932 4,206 3,765 17,230 N/A N/A 604 N/A
Annual Change
Year Revenue IVA Estab. Enterprises Employment Exports Imports Wages Domestic
Demand
(%) (%) (%) (%) (%) (%) (%) (%) (%)
2012–13 0.20 1.87 -3 -3 5 N/A N/A 4.05 N/A
2013–14 0.12 0.13 3 3 -1 N/A N/A 0.80 N/A
2014–15 1.24 -3.30 -3 -2 -1 N/A N/A -0.11 N/A
2015–16 6.02 3.24 -1 -1 -3 N/A N/A 1.29 N/A
2016–17 0.47 2.00 -0 0 -2 N/A N/A -3.06 N/A
2017–18 1.37 2.00 2 2 2 N/A N/A -1.13 N/A
2018–19 1.63 -3.32 1 1 1 N/A N/A -0.14 N/A
2019–20 -4.51 -4.99 -2 -2 -4 N/A N/A -3.39 N/A
2020–21 2.10 1.81 -2 -2 -2 N/A N/A -1.67 N/A
2021–22 2.28 1.25 -1 -0 -1 N/A N/A -0.95 N/A
2022–23 1.79 1.18 -1 -0 -1 N/A N/A -0.73 N/A
2023–24 1.18 1.22 -1 -1 -1 N/A N/A -0.70 N/A
2024–25 1.45 1.01 -1 -1 -2 N/A N/A -0.74 N/A
2025–26 1.54 1.07 -1 -1 -2 N/A N/A -0.48 N/A
Key Ratios
Year IVA/Revenue Imports/Demand Exports/Revenue Revenue per Wages/Revenue Employees per Average Wage
Employee estab.
(%) (%) (%) ($'000) (%)
2012–13 22.9 N/A N/A 192 17.1 4.55 32,770
2013–14 22.9 N/A N/A 194 17.2 4.35 33,453
2014–15 21.9 N/A N/A 199 17.0 4.41 33,850
2015–16 21.3 N/A N/A 217 16.2 4.31 35,247
2016–17 21.7 N/A N/A 223 15.7 4.23 34,996
2017–18 21.8 N/A N/A 222 15.3 4.26 33,862
2018–19 20.7 N/A N/A 224 15.0 4.26 33,621
2019–20 20.6 N/A N/A 222 15.2 4.19 33,661
2020–21 20.6 N/A N/A 232 14.6 4.19 33,904
2021–22 20.4 N/A N/A 240 14.2 4.17 33,963
2022–23 20.2 N/A N/A 246 13.8 4.16 34,011
2023–24 20.2 N/A N/A 253 13.6 4.14 34,275
2024–25 20.2 N/A N/A 261 13.3 4.11 34,671
2025–26 20.1 N/A N/A 270 13.0 4.10 35,044
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Additional Resources
Additional Australian Bureau of Statistics
Resources http://www.abs.gov.au
COSMETICS
Substances used to enhance the appearance or odour of the human body.
MASSTIGE PRODUCTS
High-quality, mass-market products possessing the appearance of prestige or premium
products.
NUTRICOSMETICS
Nutritional supplements that support the structure and function of the skin.
CAPITAL INTENSITY
Compares the amount of money spent on capital (plant, machinery and equipment) with
that spent on labour. IBISWorld uses the ratio of depreciation to wages as a proxy for capital
intensity. High capital intensity is more than $0.333 of capital to $1 of labour; medium is
$0.125 to $0.333 of capital to $1 of labour; low is less than $0.125 of capital for every $1 of
labour.
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CONSTANT PRICES
The dollar figures in the Key Statistics table, including forecasts, are adjusted for inflation
using the current year (i.e. year published) as the base year. This removes the impact of
changes in the purchasing power of the dollar, leaving only the 'real' growth or decline in
industry metrics. The inflation adjustments in IBISWorld’s reports are made using the
Australian Bureau of Statistics' implicit GDP price deflator.
DOMESTIC DEMAND
Spending on industry goods and services within Australia, regardless of their country of
origin. It is derived by adding imports to industry revenue, and then subtracting exports.
EMPLOYMENT
The number of permanent, part-time, temporary and casual employees, working proprietors,
partners, managers and executives within the industry.
ENTERPRISE
A division that is separately managed and keeps management accounts. Each enterprise
consists of one or more establishments that are under common ownership or control.
ESTABLISHMENT
The smallest type of accounting unit within an enterprise, an establishment is a single
physical location where business is conducted or where services or industrial operations are
performed. Multiple establishments under common control make up an enterprise.
EXPORTS
Total value of industry goods and services sold by Australian companies to customers
abroad.
IMPORTS
Total value of industry goods and services brought in from foreign countries to be sold in
Australia.
INDUSTRY CONCENTRATION
An indicator of the dominance of the top four players in an industry. Concentration is
considered high if the top players account for more than 70% of industry revenue. Medium
is 40% to 70% of industry revenue. Low is less than 40%.
INDUSTRY REVENUE
The total sales of industry goods and services (exclusive of excise and sales tax); subsidies
on production; all other operating income from outside the firm (such as commission
income, repair and service income, and rent, leasing and hiring income); and capital work
done by rental or lease. Receipts from interest royalties, dividends and the sale of fixed
tangible assets are excluded.
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INTERNATIONAL TRADE
The level of international trade is determined by ratios of exports to revenue and imports to
domestic demand. For exports/revenue: low is less than 5%; medium is 5% to 20%; and high
is more than 20%. Imports/domestic demand: low is less than 5%; medium is 5% to 35%;
and high is more than 35%.
LIFE CYCLE
All industries go through periods of growth, maturity and decline. IBISWorld determines an
industry's life cycle by considering its growth rate (measured by IVA) compared with GDP;
the growth rate of the number of establishments; the amount of change the industry's
products are undergoing; the rate of technological change; and the level of customer
acceptance of industry products and services.
NONEMPLOYING ESTABLISHMENT
Businesses with no paid employment or payroll, also known as nonemployers. These are
mostly set up by self-employed individuals.
PROFIT
IBISWorld uses earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) as an indicator of a company’s
profitability. It is calculated as revenue minus expenses, excluding interest and tax.
VOLATILITY
The level of volatility is determined by averaging the absolute change in revenue in each of
the past five years. Volatility levels: very high is more than ±20%; high volatility is ±10% to
±20%; moderate volatility is ±3% to ±10%; and low volatility is less than ±3%.
WAGES
The gross total wages and salaries of all employees in the industry.
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