All About Shoes 2014 Deel 1

1
I have written this book in memory
Of my
Great-Grandfather, Grandfather, and my Father,
I am the last one in our Family who was able to

design and teach shoes in many different countries.
My Intention with this book is to explain our Family’s

“More than 100 years”
Of experience.
To those, like our family, who love high quality shoes.
Hans van der Elzen
Title: All about shoes and techniques

Edition: Shoes and Hans
2013 April.
Waalwijk, The Netherlands
ISBN/EAN 978-90-820670-0-2
NUR-Code: 100
Editor: Elzen, Hans van der
Author: Elzen, Hans van der
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any
form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other-wise, without the prior written per-
mission from the author.
Hans van der Elzen

2 About Us
When I finished this training,

the school asked me to
become a teacher, which I
accepted.
Hans van der Elzen

born in Holland
My family (from my father’s side)

were shoe designers and shoe
manufacturers in Holland.
My Grand Parents
It started with my Great-Grandfa-
ther who won several Gold medals As teacher I wrote several books
as the best shoe designer from about shoes. You can find them
Holland. at the Royal Library, The Hague,
Netherlands
My Parents
Hans van der Elzen. ‘S-Hertogen-
bosch, The Netherlands.
CIP-Information, Royal Library,
The Hague Author Elzen,Hans v.d. (See my website:)
www.shoesandhans.com
ISBN 90-71281-01-9 / 90-71281- and
02-7 / 90-71281-03-5 SISO 686.5 www.shoesandhans.eu
UDC 685.3
As I am the last one in our family

who practices “making high quality
shoes” I am very honored to teach
My Great-Grand Parents
my skills to other people who “love
the shoes” the same way I do.
The experience my great-grandfa- My new book was written using the

ther had built up has been a family experience from my last 20 years.
secret for making high quality I have worked for severa
and comfortable shoes. Due to brands in many countries: Holland,
his experience, my family has Germany, Belgium, France, Italy,
become well known as Spain, Portugal, Canada, Mace-
shoemakers in Holland. donia, Tunisia, India, Taiwan, and
I wanted to know more about China.
the technical part of shoes and
went to study orthopedic shoes.
Hans van der Elzen

About Us 3
In Memory of my Great-Grand Father Zijn werken werden meermalen met goud bekroond.
who died at 8 March 1914 Hij fungeerde meermalen als juylid.
Hij was in zijn tijd de beste leraar in ’t schoenvak

I am the last one from our family who works in shoes onderwijs; gedurende 30 jaren was hij daarin on-
and therefore I have written my newest book for vermoeid werkzaam en door hem zijn vele beste
those who are interested in designing, making, and krachten voor de schoenfabrieken gevormd, daar de
loving shoes like I do. I hope that it will help in the meeste en beste coupeurs en meesterknechts hun
continual development of good fitting and high opleiding van hem genoten.
quality shoe making.
J.W.A.M. van der Elzen Hij heeft zeer veel gedaan tot verheffing der shoen-
industrie. Vele zullen dankbaar zijne nagedachtenis
Newspaper Obituary from
eeren.
The Netherlands
English text
Baardwijk + J.v.d. Elzen +
One writes:
March 8 J.L. died at age 60 years at Baardwijk, Mr.

J.v.d. Elzen,
He was one of the best, if not the best, and most
famous shoe designer.
His work was frequently rewarded with gold.

He served several times as member of the jury.
He was in his time the best shoe teacher for 30

years, he worked tirelessly, and through his efforts
he formed many good masters for the shoe facto-
ries, the most and best model makers, and foremen
received their training from him.
For easier reading I have rewritten the text in Dutch:
He has done a lot for the elevation of the shoe indus-
Baardwijk + J.v.d. Elzen + try. Many will be grateful and honor his memory.
Men schrijft ons:
8 Maart J.L. overleed in de ouderdom van 60 jaren

te Baardwijk de heer J.v.d. Elzen; hij was een der
beste, zoo niet de beste en meest bekende coupeur
schoenmaker.
Hans van der Elzen

4 Table of Contents
Chapter 1: Length measurements Page 5
Chapter 2: Girth measurements Page 13
Chapter 3: Insole, last construction Page 25
Chapter 4: Feet blue prints Page 35
Chapter 5: Last construction Page 39
Chapter 6: Proportions Page 51
Chapter 7: Shoe types and construction Page 55
Chapter 8: Paper patterns/shoe backpart heights Page 69
Chapter 9: Fish-bone, last copy Page 77
Chapter 10: Adhesive paper, last copy Page 85
Chapter 11: Wet paper, last copy Page 89
Chapter 12: Construction help lines for paper patterns Page 93
Chapter 13: Blucher Derby low cut shoe Page 99
Chapter 14: Balmoral low cut shoe Page 121
Chapter 15: Women’s pump shoe Page 135
Chapter 16: Stitch-down low cut shoe Page 147
Chapter 17: Strobel running shoe Page 151
Chapter 18: Standard Blucher boot with and without Water tongue Page 157
Chapter 19: Moccasin shoe Page 169
Chapter 20: T-Band low cut shoe Page 175
Chapter 21: Children’s high boot Page 177
Chapter 22: Cutting edges for uppers Page 181
Chapter 23: Pattern grading Page 185
Chapter 24: Shoe design into a pattern with Photoshop Page 197
Chapter 25: Designs made with Photoshop Page 207
Hans van der Elzen

Length Measurements 5
CHAPTER 1: LENGTH MEASUREMENTS
Hans van der Elzen

6 Length measurements
Good to know why “good fitting shoes” getting in and out of bed or walking - for about 7
are so important! million Americans.
3 out of 4 Americans experience serious

About 60-70% of people with diabetes have mild to
foot problems in their lifetime.
severe forms of diabetic nerve damage, which in
Your feet mirror your general health. severe forms can lead to lower limb amputations.
Approximately 56,000 people a year lose their foot
The foot contains 28 bones, 33 joints, 107 ligaments
or leg to diabetes.
and 19 muscles.
There are 250,000 sweat glands in a pair of feet.
Sweat glands in the feet excrete as much as a half-
1/4 of all the bones in the human body are down in
pint of moisture a day.
your feet. When these bones are out of alignment,
so is the rest of the body.
Walking barefoot can cause plantar warts. The virus
enters through a cut.
Only a small percentage of the population is born
The two feet may be different sizes. Buy shoes for
with foot problems.
the larger one.
It´s neglect and a lack of awareness of proper

About 5% of Americans have toenail problems in a
care - including ill fitting shoes - that brings on
given year.
problems.
Women have about four times as many foot prob-
The average person takes 8,000 to 10,000 steps a
lems as men. High heels are partly to blame.
day, which adds up to about 115,000 miles over a
lifetime. That’s enough to go around the circumfer-
Walking is the best exercise for your feet. It also
ence of the earth four times.
contributes to your general health by improving cir-
culation, contributing to weight control, and promot-
ing all-around well being.
Conditions such as arthritis, diabetes, nerve and cir-

culatory disorders can show their initial symptoms in
the feet - so foot ailments can be your first sign of
more serious medical problems.
Arthritis is the number one cause of disability in

America. It limits everyday dressing, climbing stairs,
Hans van der Elzen

Length measurements 7
Shocking Foot Facts exposing themselves to serious foot problems that

could lead to amputation, according to research in
Did you know that an estimated 80% of children
the International Journal of Clinical Practice.
in the UK are wearing the wrong shoe size, which
may cause them long-term damage?
Research from the Glasgow Caledonian University.
In addition, more than 75% of UK adults suffer

YouGov survey for the Society of Chiropodists and
from foot problems – 70% of those can be attribut-
Podiatrists (SCP).
ed to ill-fitting shoes worn in childhood. 37% would
wear uncomfortable shoes as long as they were
fashionable and 17% of men admit to buying shoes
the wrong size.
Many are wearing the wrong sized shoes on a

daily basis without even knowing it.
A research study, led by Norman Espinosa, M.D.,

an orthopaedic surgeon at the University of Zu-
For the mentioned reasons it is very important to
rich Balgrist, that was presented to the American
explain how to make good fitting shoes, still too
Association of Orthopaedic Surgeons, found that
many people get foot problems during their life.
more than 90% of both outdoor and indoor shoes/
slippers worn by the children in their study, were
too small and that the shoe sizes given by the
manufacturers almost never matched with the true
sizes measured by the Research Group.
The British shoe sizing system was created by Ed-

ward II in 1324 and that same system is still used
today to manufacture footwear in the UK.
Amazingly, there’s no legal requirement for manu-

facturers to stick to it!
More than six out of ten people with diabetes are

walking around in the wrong-sized shoes,
Hans van der Elzen

International Shoe Size Chart Notes Mondo point defines the size of a shoe from foot
measurements designed to ensure that the shoe
• American Women’s shoe sizes are the same will fit.
as American Men’s shoe sizes plus 1 ½.
These measurements are the length of the foot
• British shoe sizes plus 1 are the same as Ame- and the width of the foot.
rican Men’s shoe sizes
If a person’s length of the foot is 260 mm and the
• Europe uses a system that came from the width of the foot is 90 mm, then the shoe size most
French called Paris Points. appropriate in Mondo point is 260/90.
• Canadian shoe sizes are equivalent (identi- All shoes marked with 260/90 should fit this
cal) to American shoe sizes for both Adult and person’s foot, without having to try them on!
Children’s.
This is why NATO uses the Mondo point system.
• Mexican shoe sizes plus 1 ½ are the same as They simply measure the recruit’s feet and then
American Men’s shoe sizes. order the boots and shoes.
• Japanese shoes sizes are American Men’s Manufacturers of protective work footwear, for
shoe sizes plus 18. (Some companies add 19). example footwear for fire-men or construction wor-
kers, have started to use Mondo point.
• Australian and New Zealand use the same
sizes as the U.K. for Men’s, Boys and Girls. These shoe size notes are made by many different
shoe companies in the world and don’t tell us how
• Korea measure shoe sizes in Millimeters to get good fitting shoes.
(mm.).
There are two scales used in the U.S. The stan-

dard of Footwear Industries of America, (”FIA”)
scale and the common scales. The “com-
mon” scale is more widely used. The scales are
about ½ sizes different.
Although different kinds of shoes prefer different
measurements.
• Mondo point shoe size system.
Many years of research and development have led

to the metric Mondo point sizing system.
It should be noted that Mondo point is an interna-
tionally standardized measure.
Mondo point is used foremost by NATO and other

military organizations.
Hans van der Elzen

Unfortunately, there is not Traditional USA Woman sizes are 1 ½ size differ-
ent than traditional Men’s sizes.
“one standard”
shoe size. This question has intrigued scientists and thinkers
since the birth of that shoe size discrepancy.
To know what are good fitting shoes starts with what
is a shoe size and there correct measurements in The whole thing started in 1937 when John and
length and wide Sarah Banks, a couple from California went into a
shoe store to buy shoes.
A shoe size is an alphanumerical indication of the
fitting size of a shoe for a person. John's feet were obviously bigger than Sarah's but
Often it just consists of a number indicating the they both had well proportionate body types.
length because many shoemakers only provide a
standard for economic reasons. When they bought the shoes, Sarah, who actually
was a very active feminist, noticed that the shoe
There are several different shoe-size systems that size of her husband was bigger than from her and
are used worldwide. These systems differ in what she felt it was unfair since both of them had normal
they measure, what unit of measurement they use, feet sizes.
and where the size 0 (or 1) is positioned.
Only a few systems also take the width of the feet Sarah eventually started protests and demanded a
into account. same shoe size for feet of same proportion.
Some regions use different shoe-size systems for It worked, and that is why Woman's shoe sizes are
different types of shoes (e.g., men's, women's, different than Men's.
children's, sport, or safety shoes).
I do not know if this is a true story but it is an expla-
The most common shoe sizes we are still using nation and makes the sizes of the shoes even
today. We use not only the length, but also the more complex.
wide, girth, instep, and ankle measurements.
We need to know these measurements for mak-
ing good fitting and comfortable shoes.
The length for:

American sizes: 1 size is 8.46 mm. and increase
with 8.46 mm/ ½ size is 4, 23 mm.
English sizes: 1 size is 8.46 mm. and increase

with 8.46 mm / ½ size is 4, 23 mm.
France sizes: 1 size is 6.66 mm. and increase

with 6.66 mm./not ½ sizes.
Mondopoint sizes: 1 size is 10 mm / and increase

with 10 mm/ ½ size is 5 mm.
The traditional USA size system is similar to

English sizes but start counting at one rather than
zero, so equivalent sizes are one greater.
(This is similar to the way that floors in buildings
are numbered from one rather from zero (ground)
in these regions).
Hans van der Elzen

Below you will see a measuring strap, which is what many shoemakers still use today.
One side has centimeters and the other side has English and French sizes.
You can compare the centimeters with English and French sizes (See Fig.1).
English “children’s” sizes start at 101.6 mm (=12 x 8,466 mm) until size 13 ½.
English “adult’s” sizes starts at 211.65 mm (= 25 x 8,466 mm).
English and USA shoes also come in half sizes.
French shoe sizes do not come in half sizes and start at 0 mm.
(Fig.1)
This comparative size chart gives you a idea from foot, shoe and last length (See Fig.2).
(Fig.2)
Hans van der Elzen

Knowing the length of different sizes is not enough.

We need to know where to start to measure.
We must measure the length of a foot when our
body rests on both of our feet.
For example, we start with a foot length of 22.5

cm / 225 mm (see Fig.3).
We need to add an extra 15 mm to our foot length

“for walking movement” inside our shoes
(see Fig. 4). We measure 225 mm plus 15 mm for
a total of 240 mm.
Our shoes should measure a total of 240 mm on

the inside.
(Fig.3)
See also the English sizes on the measure strap
and compare them with France sizes.(See Fig.5)
We count 240 mm less 101 mm (in English we start

sizes after 101 mm) = 139 mm.
139 mm divided by 8, 46 mm = 16, 43 English
sizes.
When we have 16, 43 English sizes we deduct the

first 13 English Children’s sizes
In our example we have than 16, 43 English

sizes min 13 English Children’s sizes =
(Fig.4) 3, 43 English Adult sizes. In this case your English
shoe size is almost 3 ½.
This means that in USA sizes, your shoe size
is 4 ½ for men and for size 6 for women.
In our example the total is 240 mm, 1 France size is 6.66 mm.
240 mm divided by 6.66 mm is 36; our shoe is France size 36.
(Fig.5)
Hans van der Elzen

Mainly we have explained the France/European (Continental) sizes.
At this table find European and USA sizes for you to compare.
USA sizes are based on Inches and

Continental sizes are based on millimeters EU UK US US
or centimeters. Men Woman
35 3 4 5.5
Convert to millimeters: multiply
36 3.5 4.5 6
Inches x 25, 4 Convert Inches:
multiply millimeters x .03937 37 4 5 6.5
4.5 5.5 7
In the USA size system, the foot length is 38 5 6 7.5
shown as a number and the foot width as a
5.5 6.5 8
letter.
The letter “D” indicates medium width for 39 6 7 8.5
each size. 40 6.5 7.5 9
“C” is narrower and “E” is wider than “D”. 7 8 9.5
In the European size system the foot 41 7.5 8.5 10
length is also shown as a number and 42 8 9 10.5
the foot width can be a number as well a 8.5 9.5 11
letter.
43 9 10 11.5
However more and more the European
width is using also the letter. 9.5 10.5 12
The letter “M” indicates medium width 44 10 11 12.5
for each size. “S” is narrower and “W” is 45 10.5 11.5 13
wider than “M”.
46 11 12
11.5 12.5
You can find many different shoe size 47 12 13
charts on the Internet but do you know if
12.5 13.5
they are correct?
48 13 14
Always measure your feet´s by yourself 49 14 15
and use the knowledge you have 50 15 16
learned for determent your size.
Hans van der Elzen

Girth measurements 13
CHAPTER 2: GIRTH MEASUREMENTS
Hans van der Elzen

14 Girth measurements
The foot grows in the length more rapidly than in the width. The length
of the foot does not “automatically” give a standard foot width.
Independent of the length, we can have small, wide, medically justified.
fleshy or skinny feet. Inquiries regarding the correct measurements for out-
lines of last insoles can be found in a table for foot
Because of these large differences in feet, we can ac- length and girth measurements.
count for the girth measurements by a table where we
can find the measurements for feet. We do not have If you measure the individual foot at the girth part (ball
standard girth measures. part) you can then use this measurement with a girth
table. This girth measurement becomes an amplitude
According to several scientists who have done much figure or amplitude character.
research in this area, among whom is Professor
Schede, the free movement of the toes is a key con- With the girth measurement, we can also
sideration for fighting foot complaints and disease. calculate the instep and the ankle
measurement.
The muscles of the toes belong to the most important The instep is 10 mm larger than the girth measure
support elements which allow the foot to bend. For whereas the ankle is 10 mm smaller than the girth
this reason, the basic outline of the sole must be measurement.
The width:
Measure the girth with the measure strap around The sum of the 2 measurements, divided by
the foot at the widest points of your feet Fig.3. two gives the feet girth.
Measure from the ball to the widest point of your feet The length from strap A = 230 mm, length from strap
(strap A) and then again from the widest point from B = 246 mm = A + B = 476 mm / 2 = 238 mm.
your feet to your small toe (strap B).
(Fig.2)
(Fig.1) (Fig.3)
Fig.1, show an blue print from the feet and feet. When we measure our feet then we need to
Fig.2 and Fig.3 show how and where to measure the add 8 mm EXTRA. Because the shoe last at the
feet for getting the correct width measurement of the sole surface forms an angle with the insole, see Fig.4.
Hans van der Elzen

This angle with the insole needs extra

space.
For Woman and Men´s shoe last we add
8 mm extra. For Childern shoe last we
add 6 mm extra.
In our example for the girth we have

mea-sure 238 mm + 8 mm extra = 246
mm.
The correct girth measurement on the
shoe last = 246 mm.
(Fig.4)
PLEASE TAKE NOTE THAT THE GIRTH MEASUREMENTS IN THE TABLES ARE MEASURES AROUND THE
FOOT, NOT THE WIDTH OF THE FOOT AS MAINLY EXPLAINED WITH WIDTH TABLES IN THE USA SIzING
SYSTEM.
The Girth measure is the most important part of For the last width we must take 40% of the Girth
the last. The medial and lateral part from the lasts is measure. It is important that the ball part of the last,
2 to 3 mm wider than the insole of the last (See inside and outside ball part, we make it not too flat.
Fig.5).
If we do so the foot will not get enough space, be-
The total last width is 5 to 6 mm wider than the cause the instep will become too small.
insole width of the last. The last insole width is 38%.
STRONGLY RECOMMENDED;
BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE PER-
CENTAGE OF THE GIRTH MEASURE
(BALL MEASURE) AS THIS WILL
INFLUENCE THE FIT OF THE SHOE.
(Fig.5)
Hans van der Elzen

How to work and use girth measurements.

Last factories have made girth measurements tables
Shoe factories are using these tables and order there the last they need for shoe productions.
Often the Customers demand the shoe manufacture the length and width sizes they need to buy.
Depending on the Countries for which the shoes will be produced, the girth tables will be different.
Girth table from Germany in mm
English sizes France S/Narrow D E F/Medium G H/Wide

Sizes
Letter/number 3 4 5 6 7 8
11 ½ 46.5 247.0 252.0 257.0 262.0 267.0 272.0

11 45.5 244.0 249.0 254.0 259.0 264.0 269.0
10 ½ 45 240.0 245.0 250.0 255.0 260.0 265.0
10 44.5 237.0 242.0 247.0 252.0 257.0 262.0
9½ 44 234.0 239.0 244.0 249.0 254.0 259.0
9 43 231.0 236.0 241.0 246.0 251.0 256.0
8½ 42.5 228.0 233.0 238.0 243.0 248.0 253.0
8 42 225.0 230.0 235.0 240.0 245.0 250.0
7½ 41 221.0 226.0 231.0 236.0 241.0 246.0
7 40.5 218.0 223.0 228.0 233.0 238.0 243.0
6½ 40 215.0 220.0 225.0 230.0 235.0 240.0
6 39.5 212.0 217.0 222.0 227.0 232.0 237.0
Above you have seen the girth table in English sizes for men and woman where we explain that on these
tables the number F or 6 are the medium girth measurements.
On the next pages we will show the girth tables for kids and the American sizing system.
PERCENTAGE OF THE GIRTH MEASURE
Research tells us that a fixed standard for the length The percentage of the ball measure lies generally is
of the girth line, (plus minus 38% of the Girth below 38%, therefore we get a higher content in the
mea-surement) should be used. The percentage of girth part of the shoe.
the Girth measure that is a measure, stipulates the
width of the insole of the last. Certainly we must consider that with supplements in
the shoes, increased contents will be required to keep
From these standards, last factories construct their a good fit.
lasts and insoles for their last models.
On Customer request, they can change the fixed per-

centage.
Hans van der Elzen

Girth measurements for Boys and Girls in France Sizes
Fr.Sizes 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
S/Narrow M/Medium W/Wide
35 182.5 187.5 192.5 197.5 202.5 207.5 212.5 217.5
34 178.5 183.5 188.5 193.5 198.5 203.5 208.5 213.5
33 175.0 180.0 185.0 190.0 195.0 200.0 205.0 210.0
32 171.0 176.0 181.0 186.0 191.0 196.0 201.0 206.0
31 167.5 172.5 177.5 182.5 187.5 192.5 197.5 202.5
30 163.5 168.5 173.5 178.5 183.5 188.5 193.5 198.5
29 160.0 165.0 170.0 175.0 180.0 185.0 190.0 195.0
28 156.0 161.0 166.0 171.0 176.0 181.0 186.0 191.0
27 152.0 157.0 162.0 167.0 172.0 177.0 182.0 187.0
26 148.0 153.0 158.0 163.0 168.0 173.0 178.0 183.0
25 144.0 149.0 154.0 159.0 164.0 169.0 174.0 179.0
24 140.0 145.0 150.0 155.0 160.0 165.0 170.0 175.0
23 136.5 141.5 146.5 151.5 156.5 161.5 166.5 171.5
22 132.5 137.5 142.5 147.5 152.5 157.5 162.5 167.5
21 129.0 134.0 139.0 144.0 149.0 154.0 159.0 164.0
20 125.0 130.0 135.0 140.0 145.0 150.0 155.0 160.0
19 121.0 126.0 131.0 136.0 141.0 146.0 151.0 156.0
18 117.0 122.0 127.0 132.0 137.0 142.0 147.0 152.0
Hans van der Elzen

Supplements take space; the contents of the Girth are reduced by it.
When we need to add inside of the shoe a supple- Here we must calculate for the total Girth contents;
ment (= insole inlay support) we must calculate a total Girth measure plus 4 mm + 4 mm
higher content for the Girth measure otherwise the is 8 mm extra. (See Fig.6)
shoe will fit too tightly.
By a thickness of 6 mm for the insole inlay support we
For example: total Girth measure = X, thickness of must calculate; total Girth measure plus 6 mm + 6 mm
insole inlay support = 4 mm. is 12 mm extra.
(Fig.6)
THE LENGTH OF THE GIRTH (BALL LINE)
When we are designing the insole for the last construction, the length of the girth/ ball line is very important for
the width and the fit of the shoe.
Sometimes we think that when the last is wide enough that the shoe will fit better. This is, however, not a good
rule. The ball measure on the ball contents does not give us sufficient information.
For example: we take a Girth (ball measure) from 24 cm out line
(Fig.7) (Fig.8)
Length 11 cm, Width 1 cm Length 6 cm. Width 6 cm.
The outline is 24 cm (11+1+11+1) The outline is 24 cm (6+6+6+6)
The contents is 11 cm2 The contents is 36 cm2
• In fig. 7: 11cm sole and 13 cm upper leather,

• In fig. 8: 6 cm sole and 18 cm upper leather.
Hans van der Elzen

From both figures it becomes clear that as less differ- In proportional comparison we have seen at the
ence exists in cm between the length and width, how out-line of the girth/ball section at the same time
large the surface is, with the same outline measure. more stiff sole
leather and less smooth upper leather.
When we draw a ball line longer (=larger) from the
insole of the last construction then the contents of the In proportional comparison we have seen at the out-
ball part will become smaller. As a result, the toes get line of the girth/ball section at the same time less stiff-
less freedom to move. ly sole leather and more smooth upper leather.
When we draw the ball line narrower (=shorter) in the

insole of the last construction, then the contents of
the ball will become larger. This is how we get less
pressure at the big and small toe.
Therefore, particular pressure points can arise on the

large and small toe. (See Fig.9 and 10).
(Fig.9) (Fig.10)
The next table concerns USA size system for girth width.
(These measurements are the width of the feet)
USA size system for width. measurements are made in Inches. From point 1 to point 2
is feet length.
AAA AA A B C D E EE EEE
3A 2A A B C D E 2E 3E From point 3 to point 4
is feet width.
Medium width for: Men,s = D

Woman = B
Bigger width for: Men,s = EE

Woman = D
Extra width for: Men,s = EEEE

Woman = EE
The length of each USA shoe size increase or decrease with 1/3 Inch ( 8.46 mm).
The width of each USA shoe size increase or decrease with 3/16 Inch ( 4.76 mm).
Hans van der Elzen

These are USA sizing system Girth tables for width measurements.
These measurements are shown the width of the foot and not like the European tables who
are mea-surements all around the foot!
US Woman Sizes Narrow Average Wide X-Wide

5 2.81 3.19 3.56 3.94
5.5 2.88 3.25 3.63 4
6 2.94 3.31 3.69 4.06
6.5 3 3.38 3.75 4.13
7 3.06 3.44 3.81 4.19
7.5 3.13 3.5 3.88 4.25
8 3.19 3.56 3.94 4.31
8.5 3.25 3.63 4 4.38
9 3.31 3.69 4.06 4.44
9.5 3.38 3.75 4.13 4.5
10 3.44 3.81 4.19 4.56
10.5 3.5 3.88 4.25 4.63
11 3.56 3.94 4.31 4.69
11.5 3.63 4 4.38 4.75
12 3.69 4.06 4.44 4.81
12.5 3.75 4.13 4.5 4.88
13 3.81 4.19 4.56 4.94
US Men´s Sizes C/Narrow D/Medium E/Wide

6 3.3" 3.5" 3.7"
6.5 3.3" 3.6" 3.8"
7 3.4" 3.6" 3.8"
7.5 3.4" 3.7" 3.9"
8 3.5" 3.8" 3.9"
8.5 3.6" 3.8" 4.0"
9 3.6" 3.9" 4.1"
9.5 3.7" 3.9" 4.1"
10 3.8" 4.0" 4.2"
10.5 3.8" 4.1" 4.3"
11 3.9" 4.1" 4.3"
11.5 3.9" 4.2" 4.4"
12 4.0" 4.3" 4.4"
12.5 4.1" 4.3" 4.5"
13 4.1" 4.4" 4.6"
13.5 4.2" 4.4" 4.8"
14 4.2 4.5" 4.9"
Hans van der Elzen

These pictures explain where to find the girth points and other importand points on the
shoe last.
By using a measur-
ing tape we link A
and B.
Point A lies
approximately 3 cm
above the lower
back part of the last.
Point B, lies in the

middle of the lower
front part of the last.
(See Fig. 14)
Fig.16)
Point B is the nose top line of the last.
The number of cm. divided by 2 we put this part in

90 degrees up of from measure tape to the middle
of the last.
Point D is the Instep point. (See Fig. 16)
Fig.14)
Fig.15) Fig.17)
By using a measuring tape we link A and B. Point E, is the last girth point, this girth point you will
The total length in cm is then visible. find on a new last (See Fig. 17)
We calculated 1/3 part of the total length in cm.
Using the measure tape we put this 1/3 part in 90
degrees up to the middle line of the last.
This point we call point C.
Point C is the Girth point. (See Fig. 15)
Hans van der Elzen

Fig.18 shows us where we need to measure the Girt; point C – E.
The instep point we measure through point D and the lowest point of
the insole.
REMINDER;
C – E is Girth measure; for example width 6 by English size 7 is 233
mm. (See Continental table for Men’s and Woman’s)
D is Instep measure and is 10 mm larger than the girth measure;

is 243 mm.
Ankle measure is 10 mm shorter than the girth measure; is 223 mm.
Fig.18)
Fig.19 The ankle point we measure on a combi last (=

last used for low cut shoes and boots) or boot last as we
need to use the ankle measure for boots.
Fig.19)
Point F is generally indicated by

the last factory and here you f nd
as well the girth length line that
will be explained later in this book)
(See Fig.20)
Fig.20)
Hans van der Elzen

There are many different tables for Sizes and Girth measurements.
This table is from an USA Sport Shoe Company and used ONLY for Men sizes!
Width Girth Girth JAPAN BRZ ARG Fr.sizes EUR UK USA

(mm) (mm) (inch) (mm)
89.30 233.36 9 3/16 24.5 36.5 37 253.08 38 5 6
90.40 236.54 9 5/16 24.5 37 38 259.74 39 5.5 6.5
91.50 239.71 9 7/16 25 38 39 266.40 40 6 7
92.60 242.89 9 9/16 25.5 38.5 39.5 269.73 40.5 6.5 7.5
93.70 246.06 9 26 39 40 273.06 41 7 8

11/16
94.80 249.24 9 26.5 40 41 279.72 42 7.5 8.5
13/16
95.90 252.41 9 27 40.5 41.5 283.05 42.5 8 9
15/16
97.00 255.59 10 27.5 41 42 286.38 43 8.5 9.5
1/16
98.10 258.59 10 28 42 43 293.04 44 9 10
3/16
99.20 261.94 10 28.5 42.5 43.5 296.37 44.5 9.5 10.5
5/16
100.30 265.11 10 29 43 44 299.70 45 10 11
7/16
101.40 268.29 10 29.5 44 45 306.36 46 10.5 11.5
9/16
102.50 271.46 10 30 44.5 45.5 309.69 46.5 11 12
11/16
103.60 274.54 10 30.5 45 46 313.02 47 11.5 12.5
13/16
104.70 277.81 10 31 46 47 319.68 48 12 13
15/16
106.90 284.16 11 32 47 48 326.34 49 13 14
3/16
*** The widths sizes between the lengths sizes used (USA) are mainly 3/16 of an Inch, is
equal on 4.76 mm. In the EU the widths sizes between the lengths sizes used are 5 mm.
Hans van der Elzen

These two pictures are used by shoe technical institutes for controlling the
length and girth measurements.
Picture shows the measurement device for the shoe length.
Picture show the measurement device for the total girth inside the shoe.
Many years of my own experience and checking a lot of tables from all over the world tell me that when we
think logically, a shoe must fit and be comfortable for our feet no matter if they are athletic, casual, or fashion.
The fact is that the length of our feet, the girth measurements, and freedom for our toes plus the wiggle room
of 15 mm will give us very good fitting and comfortable shoes.
How to measure for making comfortable and good fitting shoes will be explained in the next chapters.
Hans van der Elzen

Last Insole Construction 25
CHAPTER 3: LAST INSOLE CONSTRUCTION
Hans van der Elzen

26 Last Insole Construction
Formulas and calculations for last insole constructions.
Name Points Description Shoe size Measurement

example Calculations
UK size
Total shoe last length A-B Last length in inch 7 32 x 8.46 = 270.72 mm,
(count 271 mm) =10.67
inch
Total girth (ball) Measure around the 7 Using the width table for
circumference metatarsal (ball of the feet) medium width 9.17 inch
Wiggle room B-D Extra room for feet 7 0.59 inch
movement during walking
Feet length A-D Feet length in inch 7 10.67 inch less 0.59 =
10.08 inch
Girth (ball) point A-C 62% from the total shoe last 7 62% from 9.17 inch =
length A -B 5.69 inch
Degrees of the girth (ball) E-F Variable from 80/76 degrees 7 80 degrees
length line depended of the population
group. General we use 80
degrees.
Total length of girth (ball) E-F 38% from total girth (ball) 7 38% from 9.17 inch =
line circumference 3.48 inch
Medial part length of girth E-C 1/6 part of total girth (ball) 7 9.17 inch: 6 = 1.53 inch
(ball) line circumference
Lateral part length of girth C-F Total length of girth (ball) 7 3.48 inch less 1.53 inch
(ball) line line less 1/6 part of total girth = 1.95 inch
(ball) circumference
Heel width point J 1/6 part of the feet length 7 10.08 inch : 6 = 1.68
inch
Total length of the heel K-L 2/3 part from the total length 7 3.48 inch x 2 = 6.96 : 3 =
width line of girth (bal) line plus 0.08 2.32 inch + 0.08 inch =
inch extra 2.40 inch
Axis heel line point M 60% from the E-F line 7 3.48 inch x 60% = 2.09
(girth/ball) inch
Degrees of the heel width K-L 90 degrees on axis heel line 7 90 degrees
line M-J
Big toe line E-G 92 degrees on line part E-F 7 92 degrees
Big toe point G Position point of the big toe 7 Point G
Small toe line F-H 78 degrees on line part E-F 7 78 degrees
Small toe point P 20% from the feet length A- 7 10.67 inch x 20% = 2.13
D inch
Heel rounding shorten N Shorten 0.08 inch from line 7 Point N
A-B
Hans van der Elzen

(Fig.1)
Hans van der Elzen

Calculate the Girth point THE REAL FOOT LENGTH IS MEASURED

(=Ballpoint) (see Fig.2) IF THEY ARE HALF CHARGED
Research of Prof.Schede, has shown that a. The foot has not been charged if the feet do not carry
the normal Girth point (=Ballpoint) of the the body weight.
foot lies on 62% of the foot length (E-C). b. The foot is half charged, as both feet carries body
weight.
Foot length + 15 mm extra length is the c. The whole foot has been charged if only one foot
normal last length. carries the whole body weight.
Our calculations do not use the ballpoint
“excess”.
The “excess” is a “special extra length” to

be able to make a special last type, such as
Italian, French, or English.
The last length in the construction of Prof.

Schede. It is always the foot length plus 15
mm extra length.
The extra length is necessary because the

foot moves forward in the shoe while walking.
The foot can be static (at standstill) and

becomes dynamical (moves) during walking.
With the research from Aka -64 -system it

become clear that the ball point for boys, girls
and little children lies on 63% of normal last
length.
This occurs because children’s feet are not

yet full-grown.
How to set up the Girth point (= Ballpoint).
Draw a length line A- B, the length of this line

depends on the foot length plus 15mm extra
length.
Calculate 62% of the length A- B, this

calculated measure we set out from point A.
Herewith we know the Girth point from the

last for the insole construction. We call this
point C.
This method we apply for:

Men’s last measures in the France sizes, 38
till 48.
Women last measures in the France sizes, 34

till 43.
(Fig.2)
Hans van der Elzen

The Degrees of the

Girth line (=Ball line)
(see Fig.3)
The degrees position of the ball line according to

the method of Prof. Schede on the ball point, C
is under an angle of 80 degrees on the length line
A- B.
In the Netherlands the angle is taken smaller

than 80 degrees (76 a 77) which a result that the
inside of the ball line (point E) comes a little more
forwards.
This has to do with the foot type of the Dutch

population.
Length of Girth line E-F

The length of the Girth line is calculated from the
total Girth measure.
For Men’s lasts, we take 37 ½ % of the total Girth

measure, for Women’s lasts, we take 35 ½ % of
the total Girth measure as a length for the Girth
line (=ball line)
Construction of the Girth line.

Men’s last, France sizes, 38 through 48
Ball line C- E is 1/6 part of the total Girth measure, E

is the inside point of the ball line, C is the ballpoint.
Ball line C- F is 1/6 part of the total Girth measure

plus 24% of this 1/6 part, F is the point of the
outside ball line, C is the ball point.
Women’s last, France sizes, 34 till 43
Ball line C- E is 1/6 part of the total Girth measure, E

is the inside point of the ball line, C is the ballpoint.
Ball line C -F is 1/6 part of the total Girth measure

plus 12% of this 1/6 part, F is the point of the
outside ball line, C is the ball point.
Heel width point
Heel width point is set up from point A and is 1/6

part of the line A-D
Length A-D is the foot length, which we call point J.

(Fig.3)
Hans van der Elzen

Basic construction lines

of the forefoot We find this point by calculating 1/3 from the ball line
(See Fig.4) minus 5%.
The total of millimetres, set out from the basic line A1.
The basic lines of the fore foot are based exactly on
the spacing of the toes, it is important that the toes
have sufficient space in the shoe.
Insufficient space in the shoe causes squeeze

points. These produce foot complaints and must be
avoided.
The line part E- G, stands in 92/94 degrees on the

ball line, point G, indicates the large toe.
The line part F- H, stands in 78 degrees on the ball
line, point P, indicates the small toe.
Point P, is 20% of line part A-D and lies on line part

F- H.
The line G- H indicates the spread of the foot.
Axis line for the heel

direction
On 60% of the ball line E- F, we places the point for

the axis line of the heel direction
This point we call point M.
Link point M with point J, by means of a line part

which passes through until the basic line A, This
line part is axis line for the heel direction.
It also gives us the direction of shoe heel.
Heel width line
In 90 degrees on line part M-J, we draw the heel

width line K-L, through heel width point J.
The heel width for Men’s last is 2/3 of the ball line
+ 2 mm, for Women last it is 2/3 of the ball line +
1mm.
The line part, K- J is half part of the heel width; J- L

is other half part of the heel width
Heel rounding point
To be able to stipulate the heel rounding line, we

calculate point N, in the extension of line part M-J.
(Fig.4)
Hans van der Elzen

To make the lines complete, we draw a line from

point E with point K. (See Fig.5)
Draw the line E- K till the basic line A.
Do it also in this way with the points F- L.
Draw also here the line F – L, till the basic line A.
Circle out a line from point J (= heel width point.)
The distance J- L is equal to Y.
Y, is the circle line of the inside heel rounding
Make also a circle line from point N (= heel rounding

point)
The distance N- A, is equal to Z
Z, is the circle of the outside heel rounding line
Draw between both circles the heel

rounding line
(Fig.6)
Fig 6. : The correct drawn Insole of the last
(Fig.5)
Hans van der Elzen

When you drawn the insole of a last do not drawn

inside of the red marks. These points are the most
important points for a good and comfortable fitting.
The Yellow marks are for the feet length. Also, do

not draw shorter than these points.
If you need to draw a spits last insole then you may

draw a longer line from the points G and P and
extend this line by point B. (Fig.7)
(Fig.7)
Hans van der Elzen

The Illustration below shows you the different

between the last length for normal shoes and the
last length for sandals.
The normal last length is: feet length plus 15 mm

for wiggle space of your foot.
When we measure France size 40 than the last

length is 40 times 6.66 mm is 266.4 mm. in the
last length is the 15 mm wiggle space automatic
included.
This is for normal closed shoes!
When we need the length of a sandal in
France size 40,
than the last length is 40 times 6.66 is 266.4 mm
less 10 mm is 256.4 mm.
Why? a sandal don’t need 15 mm for wiggle
space as the sandal in NOT a closed shoe, but
has an open toe, here is 5 mm enough for the
last length.
HOWEVER IF A SANDAL HAS A CLOSED TOE,
THAN YOU MUST USE A LAST AS FOR A
CLOSED SHOE!
(Fig.8)
Hans van der Elzen

34
Hans van der Elzen

Feet blue prints 35
CHAPTER 4: FEET BLUE PRINTS
Hans van der Elzen

36 Feet Blue Prints
How to make correct insole patterns for the shoe last with feet blue prints.
Making the correct shoe last for persons who like to Besides the length we need also the width,
wear custom made shoes, we have to measure and the ancle measurements of the feet and the leg mea-
making the blue print of the feet. surements incase we need to make boots.
We start with the blue print and measure the length and the width of the feet.
We use for this example: feet length 260 mm. and Girth is 238 mm + extra 8 mm = total girth:246 mm
Girth measurement 238 mm, see Fig.1.
With these informations (the feet length and girth
Fig.2, here you can see how to draw the insole for the width) we can start to draw our insole for the shoe
feet blue print. Feet length: 260 mm + 15 mm = last last using the formulas and calculations for last insole
length: 275 mm. constructions on page 26
Last length: 275 mm less 5 mm back off line = insole
length: 270 mm (see page 31, fig.6)
(Fig.1.)
(Fig.2.)
Hans van der Elzen

Feet blue prints 37
Using the formules and calculations as you find

them on Chapter 3: page 26 you are able to see
and conclude if:
• the girth is at the normal point • the heel pressure point is correct
• the girth direction is correct (between 76 and 80 • the direction fo the heel bone is correct
degrees)
• the feet wider or smaller is than 40% from the
total girth measure
• the big and small toe are at the correct point
• the foot abnormality is big relative to a normal
• the proportions from the girth to the longitudinal insole
axis relative to the foot is correct •
See Fig. 3, 4 and 5
(Fig.3.) (Fig.4.) (Fig.5.)
Hans van der Elzen

38
Hans van der Elzen

Last Construction 39
CHAPTER 5: LAST CONSTRUCTION
Hans van der Elzen

40 Last Construction
Formulas and calculations for last section construction
Names Points Descriptions

Length measure (A-B) Last length in mm
Width figure or number Width figure indicate Girth measure
Total Girth measure Last length + width number = cm
2
Extra length (B-D) 15 mm for Women and Men’s lasts
Foot sole length (A-D) Last length less extra length
Girth points (=Ball point) (P-C1) Golden cut
Instep point (N) ½ foot length
Girth point (insole) (C) 38% from last length Women’s and Men’s
37% from last length Children’s

Length of ball line (C-C ) 1
1/5 part of total Girth measurement
(Girth length line)

Degree of ball line (C-C1) 90 degrees on line part C-A1
(Girth length line)

Toe height (B-B1) Variable
Heel height (A-A1) Variable
Degrees heel bow line (A -G)
1
Variable
Toe thickness D -D )
1 2
Variable
Heel width point (J) 1/6 part of foot length
Heel length point (K) ¼ part of foot length
Help bow point (E) ½ last length A-B
Degrees of help bow point (A -E)
1
Variable
Heel line length (A -F1
63% from total Girth measure for Women’s and Men’s ,
62% for Children’s
Degrees for Heel line (A1-F) Variable

Heel bow rounding (A -H)
1
Variable
Heel bow rounding point (H) 3 mm backwards on line part A1-G
Last height (A1-G) Standard height of 70 mm
Last insole point (A ) 2
Same as by last insole construction
Hans van der Elzen

(Fig.9)
Hans van der Elzen

Girth points according to the

golden cut. (See Fig.10)
To calculate the Girth measure it is important to

know where we can find these points.
Whether we make lasts ourselves or check others’
lasts we must know these points.
Each last factory has a measuring instrument for

girth points (derived from the golden cut principle)
because of the plastic form of the last.
The Girth points are stipulatd as follows:
Connect with a line part, the points A1 – B1.

Take the length of A1-D1; this is the foot length.
On the foot length we apply the golden cut principle.
We can find Point R with the help of the golden cut

principle for the last contents construction.
From point R, in 90 degrees on the basis line A1-D1,
draw vertical a line part (=R-S)
Draw this line part until the sole side from the last.
7 mm. above the sole side we find point P.

P is the Girth point at the side of the last.
From P, on the vertical line part P-S, we set up line
part from 22 degrees (these 22 degrees are an
experience number).
The 22 degree line cut the last on the middle Girth

point of the last C1.
The Girth measure we measure with a measuring-

tape to lay this tape to the nose side, directly against
the Girth points.
Measure the instep point;

This point is fixed by dividing the length of line A1-D1,
in two equal pieces.
The middle we call point M.
(Fig.10)
On the basis line A1-D1, we draw up a vertical line in
90 degrees from point M. (line part M-N)
Point N is the instep point.
For the instep measurement, we measure with

a measuring-tape. Lay this tape to the nose side,
directly against the instep point.
As we have here only one measuring point, we

place the measuring-tape against the instep point
and further along the narrowest part of the last at
the sole part.
Hans van der Elzen

Girth point of the last insole. (See Fig.11) When the foot stands on a higher heel, then we need
another heel arc.
The girth point is 62% of the last length A-B, for
Women’s and Men’s lasts. The heel arc is as follows calculated:
And 63% of the last length A-B, for Boys, Girls, and
Children’s lasts. Heel height: 20 mm. = heel arc line in 90 degrees on
The Girth point is always calculated from the last line part A1 – C;
length from a normal last. Heel height: 30 mm. = heel arc line in 91 degrees on
line part A1 – C;
Length of Girth line. Heel height: 40 mm. = heel arc line in 92 degrees on
line part A1 – C;
The length of the Girth line is 1/5 part of the total Heel height: 50 mm. = heel arc line in 93 degrees on
Girth measurement. line part A1 – C;
For the Girth measure we use a formula, last Length,
plus width number and divided by 2.
The outcome we express to centimeters.
Also you can use the table 32, from the German
Last factory Behrens.
With the same data of table 32 of Behrens, we see
the Girth measure in millimeters.
Degrees of Girth line.
90 degrees on line part of C-A1, irrespective of the

heel height.
The toe spring.
These are dependent of the system and heel altitude

of the shoe.
If it is a stiff system, then we take more toe spring. If
it is a smooth system, then we take less toe spring.
It is important that the foot is not obstructed during
walking.
As a termination point we considered the

next rule:
Men’s last: with a Heel height from 20 á 30 mm

= 14 á 18 mm.
Women’s last: with a Heel height from 60 á 70 mm
= 5 á 10 mm.
= 10 á 12 mm.
= 12 á 14 mm.
Children’s last: with a Heel height from 10 á 20
mm. = 12 á 15 mm.
Degrees of the heel arc line.
Line part, A1 - G stipulates the direction of the heel

arc.
(Fig.11)
Hans van der Elzen

Toe-Thickness. (See Fig.12) See below diagram:
The toe thickness we set out from point D Heel height: 20 mm, help medial line A1 – E, expand
The toes must have sufficient space. from point A1, = 5 degrees;
The minimum toe thickness measurement for: Heel height: 30 mm, help medial line A1 – E, expand
• Men’s last is 24 á 25 mm. from point A1, = 6 degrees;
• Women lasts is 22 á 23 mm.
• Kids lasts is 18 á 22 mm. Heel height: 40 mm, help medial line A1 – E, expand
from point A1, = 7 degrees;
The lowest number for these toe thickness is the
absolute minimum!
The space for the toes definitely cannot be thinner
than in the above diagram is indicated.
Heel width point. (We call this point by the

last, heel pressure point)
This point is calculated in the same manner as by
the last insole construction.
For making the sole plastic, this point is used for the
heel contour depth.
If we create this depth, then we must pay attention
to the heel height of the upper.
The heel of the foot then falls deeper in the shoe.
Heel length point.
This is ¼ part of the foot length A - D (expand from

point A)
This length point is important for the heel
measurement.
We draw a medial line slightly parallel with the heel
line to get more beautiful course of the heel.
Help medial point.
Line part A1 – E, stipulates together with the medial

line A1 – C, the direction of this medial line of the
last.
The medial line of the last we draw between these
two lines.
Point E is always the ½ last lengths from line part
A-B.
Degrees of Help medial line.
The degrees arc of this line depends on the heel

height.
On a heel height of 20 mm this line stands in 5
degrees on line part A1 - C, expand from point A1.
With each 10 mm more of the heel height, we
increase the help medial line with 1 degree.
(Fig.12)
Hans van der Elzen

Length of heel line. (See Fig.13) Degrees from de heel line.
For women’s and men’s lasts the length of the heel The heel line (A1-F) stands in 42 degrees on line part
line A1-F is 63% of the girth measure. (A1-C), with a heel height of 20 mm.
For Boys, Girls and Children lasts this length A1 - F
is 62% of the girth measure. For every 10 mm. higher heel height, the heel line
increases 1 degree.
For the training of shoe techniques we use de
following formula. See diagram mentioned below:
2/3 (last length + 1/10 last length + width number) = 20 mm, heel height, heel line A1-F stands on 42 degrees
the total heel size in centimeters. on line part A1-C;
The outcome, x 3/7 gives then the length of the heel 30 mm, heel height, heel line A1-F stands on 43 degrees
line in centimeters. on line part A1-C; etc, etc.
For example: Size 41, width number 6
Formula: 41 + 4.1 + 6 = 51.1 x 2/3 = 34 cm x 3/7 =

14.5 cm.
63% from the Girth: (41 +6 = 47: 2 = 23.5 cm) See
table 32, Behrens Germany
Size 41, width number 6 = 235 mm x 62% =145 mm
= 14.5 cm.
Attention! 62% is for Boys, Girls and Children’s

lasts.
The heel Girth.

The heel girth we measure on the instep point from
the last.
We lay the measure tape directly against the instep
point of the last to the direction of the nose side and
further around the heel point A1.
Also here we use the formula:
2/3 (last length + 1/10 last length + width number) =

the total heel size in centimeters.
For example: Size 40, width number 6.
Formula: 40 + 4.0 + 6 = 50.0 x 2/3 = 33.3 cm.

145% from the Girth measure: (40 + 6 = 46: 2 = 23.0
cm) see table 32, Behrens Germany.
Size 40, width number 6 = 230 mm x 145% = 333
mm. = 33.3 cm.
The real heel Girth, when the last is made, we

calculate this as follow:
For women’s and men’s lasts we calculate 150% of
the Girth measure for heel measure.
For boys’, girls’, and childrens’ lasts, we calculate
149% of the girth measures the heel measure.
(Fig.13)
Hans van der Elzen

Heel arc rounding point (Fig.14). The last height.
For size 42 the point of the heel arc bow line, lays The standard last height is 70 mm.
30 mm above point A1. This standard height of the last is made for working
This point we call point H. with different shoe making machines.
By 2 sizes more or - less, the distance between A1 However, this last height can be made as the shoe
– H becomes 1 mm more or -less. manufacturer wishes for his machines.
The heel arc contour is one of the most difficult lines

from a last model.
The lasts made for high booths this line lays on

point G further behind, to get thereby a nicer shape
of the upper.
The flank sides of the last are thereby very important.

When we make this flank sides to thin than we must
make the heel arc bow straighter.
If we don’t do this than the heel arc bow will damage/
cut the heel of the foot.
(Fig.14)
Hans van der Elzen

REMARKS:
As we can see there are many points we need to consider to make the correct fitting lasts.
The experience and the “know how” for making lasts is very important.
The correct data will give you a good direction for making and controlling a last.
We are allowed to change some points as long as we know how to compensate this.
It must be clear that the type of lasts depends of the type of shoes we want to make.
Professional skill is therefore needed.
When we work with the standard measures for the

lasts, we can see that the foot fit’s in the correct
position.
It is very important that the Girth point is placed as we

have explained before.
When the foot carries the body weight the foot will find,
due to the pressure of the body weight, automatically
the best fitting places created by the last (Fig.15).
(Fig.15)
With this picture you can see what happens when the
standard measures are not respected!
This mistake you can find by many lasts and shoes.

Here you can see that the foot is pushed too much to
the front part due to the wrong Girth point.
A bad fit is the result. The toes will be damaged and the
foot will slip out of the shoe (Fig.16)
(Fig.16)
Hans van der Elzen

Control and measure the lasts for producing the correct shoe types.
Control the Ankle measure
Control the Girth and Instep measure
When we have measured the Last length, Girth, Instep and Ankle points than we must control as well the
back part line of the last.
It has happened several times that these lines are made too much to the inside of the last and will hurt the feet
by the Achilles muscle what is very painfully during walking.
We measure the back part line

by using a winkle as you see on
(Fig.17).
(Fig.17)
Hans van der Elzen

Place the last on the winkle Fig.18, the space

by point A should be 3 mm and by point B,
at the correct quarter height of the last the
space should be 2 mm.
(Fig.18)
On Fig.19 you can see that point B is made
too much inside of the last and will hurt the
feet during walking.
It can happened that also point A is too much

inside and that the heel rounding is too round
what will give the shoe an ugly look.
Sometimes point B is too close to the winkle

at heel height and that results that your foot
is slipping out during walking.
(Fig.19)
Control also if the “toe thickness” is

correct. (Fig.20)
(Fig.20)
Hans van der Elzen

50
Hans van der Elzen

Proportions 51
CHAPTER 6: PROPORTIONS
Hans van der Elzen

52 Proportions
Standards for the correct proportions
People have tried since antiquity to measure the propor-

tions of the human body to fit harmoniously within a cer-
tain diagram.
Leonardo da Vinci (1452 - 1519) and Albrecht Durer

(1471-1528) especially intensively studied the body’s
proportions.
Leonardo da Vinci studied the anatomy by carrying out

autopsies of the human body.
Moreover he was painter, sculptor, architect, engineer,

musician, writer, thinker and scientific research worker.
Their findings as comparative material have not lost their value even today.
It is almost impossible that two people are built with the exact same proportions. However, after a large
number of comparitive measuring, a standard norm has been established.
Hans van der Elzen

Proportions 53
By using this standard norm, we can

determine an individual’s construction
norm.
Investigative research and analysis

has determined that the human body
is built according to the principle of
the” golden cut” proportions.
The golden cut is the partitioning of a line part in ex- A calculation from this proportion until 3 decimal plac-
treme and middle proportion. es provides closely 0,618: 1 or approximately 5: 8.
This partitioning must be so that the smallest part is This implies that a line of 1000 mm after dividing ac-
in proportion to the largest as largest to the complete cording to the Golden cut the largest piece 618 mm
line part. and the smallest piece 382 mm measures.
Draw a rectangular triangle of which line part A-C is The “Golden cut” played an important part particularly
the half of line part A-B. in the Renaissance period in art and architecture as a
standard for harmoniously proportions.
The value is not exactly calculable; she can be de-
termined only by geometrical construction as follows; The human body has been built according to the pro-
Example: basic line A-B is 10 cm, line part A-C is 5 portions of the Golden cut (therefore also the foot).
cm. The best possible way for making shoes is also using
the Golden cut principle.
Connect with a line the point’s B-C.
The professional designer always looks for the pro-
Using a passer, the length from A-C, make a circle portions within the shoe.
from point C. We name the cutting point on line part
C-B, point D. When the proportions of the shoe conform with the
proportions of the foot, then they are in harmony.
Measure afterwards with the passer the length from
B-D. Entirely good proportions arise by standards norms.
From point B with the passer circle out point E on the We have applied these standards throughout this
basic line A-B. book and to lasts - and basic pattern models.
Now we know the proportion between A - B, A-E and

E-B.
This is what we call “the Golden Cut”.
Hans van der Elzen

54
Hans van der Elzen

Shoe types and constructions 55
CHAPTER 7: SHOE TYPES AND CONSTRUCTIONS
Hans van der Elzen

56 Shoe types and constructions
Oxford shoes, Blucher and Balmoral

Bluchers
A Blucher refers to the way a shoe is not sewn down, so it can

Derby style shoe ties up. See be pulled tight or left more open
the brackets to the right? in the area around the ball of the
foot.
That is a good representation
of the way a Blucher acts. A
Blucher is far more adjustable
than a Balmoral because the
bottom of the lace-up part of the
Balmorals
A Balmoral (or "Bal") refers to circumference and cannot be
the way an Oxford style shoe adjusted smaller or larger.
ties up.
Oxfords, characterized by
A Balmoral is far less adjustable shoelace eyelet tabs that
than a Blucher because the are stitched underneath the
bottom of the lace-up part of the vamp contrast with Derby’s, or
Blücher design, characterized
shoe is sewn down, so the part
by shoelace eyelet tabs that are
of the shoe around the ball of the sewn on top of the vamp.
foot can only be one
Brogue shoe (Also called Balmorals)

The Brogue is a style of low Brogues were traditionally
heeled shoe or boot traditionally considered to be outdoor or
characterized by multiple- country footwear not otherwise
piece, sturdy leather uppers appropriate for casual or
with decorative perforations business occasions, but brogues
and serration along the pieces are now considered appropriate
visible edges. in most contexts.
Hans van der Elzen

Venetian style shoe

Venetian style shoes
(venetian-style loafers)
are mid-heel slippers with Loafers are “Slip on shoes with

an upper or top part that is a moccasin toe construction and
slightly open to the kick of the slotted straps stitched across
foot and the ankle bone. The vamps”.
term came from Great Britain.
Derby shoe
A Derby or Gibson (also
called a Blücher or “bucks”)
is a style of shoe characterized construction method that is also

by shoelace eyelet tabs that are sometimes referred to as “open
sewn on top of the vamp, a lacing” where the tongue cut in
one piece with the forepart.
(Detail of a man's derby style dress shoe showing lacing eyelet tabs sewn on top of the vamp).
Oxfords (or bal-type),
in contrast to blücher, are front. This design was adopted

characterized by shoelace eyelet by armies across Europe,
tabs that are stitched underneath became a trendy sporting and
the vamp. The Blucher design hunting shoe in the 1850s, and
is named after Prussian then became appropriate for
general Gebhard Leberecht town affairs in the turn of the
von Blücher, one of Napoleon's century.
more formidable opponents who
decided his troops needed better
shoes and commissioned a boot
with side pieces lapped over the
Hans van der Elzen

Wellington boot
The Wellington boot
also known as rubber-boots, wellies, wellingtons, topboots, Billy-

boots, gumboots, gummies, barn boots, Wellie boots, muck
boots, sheep boots, shit-kickers or rain boots are a type of boot based
upon leather Hessian boots.
They were worn and popularized by Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of

Wellington. This novel "Wellington" boots then became a fashionable
style emulated by the British aristocracy in the early 19th century.
Moccasin
A moccasin
is a slipper made of deerskin or The sole is soft and flexible and

other soft leather, consisting of a the upper part often is adorned
sole and sides made of one piece with embroidery or beading, etc.
of leather, stitched together at the Historically, it is the footwear of
top, and sometimes with a vamp many Native American people;
(additional panel of leather). moreover, hunters, traders, and
European settlers wore them.
Opanak
are a kind of traditional shoes The design of the horn-like

worn in Serbia, Bosnia, ending indicates the region of
Herzegovina, Croatia, Serbia the shoes are from. The
Macedonia and Bulgaria. The concept, and the word, exists
attributes of the Opanci are: a in Romania (asopincă) which
construction of leather, lack of is borrowed from Slavic. The
laces, durable, and have horn- opanaks are considered the
like ending on toes. traditional peasant footwear for
people in the Balkan region.
Hans van der Elzen

Monk shoe
A monk shoe
is a style of shoe with no In between these, it is one of the

lacing, closed by a buckle main categories of men's shoes.
and strap. It is moderately It often has a cap toe, it is
formal shoe: less formal occasionally brogued, and is
than a full Oxford (American: popular in suede.
Balmorals); but more so than an
open Derby (American: Blücher).
Boat shoes
Boat shoes (also known

as deck shoes or topsiders)
are typically canvas or leather worn without socks. Boat shoes

with non-marking rubber sole are used by sailors, as the
designed for use on a boat. name suggests; however, since
Modern boat shoes were invented the 1980s they have become
in 1935 by Paul Sperry after fashionable footwear in America,
noticing his dog's ability to run the UK, Portugal, and France.
easily over ice without slipping. Some boat shoes today have
Boat shoes are traditionally traditional white, non-marking
soles, though many others today
have dark non-marking soles.
Slip-on shoe
Slip-ons
are typically low, lace- popularity to the point of being

less shoes. The style most worn in America with city lounge
commonly seen, known as suits. They are worn in many
a loafer in American culture, has situations in a wide variety
a moccasin construction. First of colors and designs, often
appearing in the mid-1930s from featuring tassels on the front, or
Norway, they began as casual metal decorations (the 'Gucci'
shoes, but have increased in loafer).
Hans van der Elzen

Strobel Slip Last

Strobel Slip Last shoe construction method stitches The word “Strobel” describes the specific way of
a sole-shaped fabric board to the upper of the shoe stitching upper leathers and lining to the insole of
that is slipped onto a last, closing the upper with footwear. The Strobel construction offers a much
stitches around the perimeter of the sole. The board higher flexibility and strength than many other types of
may be varied from thin flexible materials to thicker construction. The outsole is normally either cemented
stable materials, or a combination of the two stitched
or stitched to the insole to complete manufacture.
together, to improve stability or flexibility.
Hans van der Elzen

Norwegian construction
Every single centimeter of leather is stretched, tacked, and sewn by hand on the last, together with a single
welt. The welt is made rigorously by hand bordered asymmetrically along the profile of the insole lining.
Stitch-Down construction
The upper is stretched over the last, folded or flanged Stitch-down construction shoes can use leathers of
out and glued to the midsole. They are then stitched higher oil, fat content than cement construction and
with a “lockstitch” machine and cement bonded to therefore have a suppler feel. Good stitch-down
the soles using a neoprene adhesive. A lockstitch has shoes are stitched using the lockstitch method for
a top and bottom stitch which is inter-stitched. This greater security. (Won’t unravel)
stitching will not unravel even if a stitch is removed.
Hans van der Elzen

The Blake Stitched
The Blake stitched is also called through and through The Blake welted, as well as the Goodyear welted,
construction. Blake is the name of the inventor who re- can also be easily removed to put a new sole as often
alized, at the end of the 19th century, a machine which as necessary. If all the components used in this type
allows to mechanize the through and through stitch. of construction are good ones, with a great level of
quality, Blake welted is synonymous of luxury shoes.
The Blake welted is a simple and solid construction.
It allows having at the same time a welted and light Today, several famous brands offer quite only Blake
shoe. This method is perfectly adapted to the smart welted shoes: Berlutti, Santoni, Stefanobi, Testoni...
dress shoes with a leather outsole: loafers, mocca- At the beginning, just after the purchase of a Blake
sins, styles with buckles, oxford shoes. welted shoe, you are more comfortable.
The upper is first lasted on a plastic production shoe After some days of use, the Goodyear construction
last. Then the outsole is put in position. is more comfortable. It is up to you to choose the
construction which feels better for you.
After that the shoe last is withdrawn and the Blake
stitching is realized from the inside to the outside in
order to join the upper with the welt and the sole.
Hans van der Elzen

The Goodyear Welted

The Goodyear Welted was invented in United The natural cork has the particularity to take bit by
States at the end of the XIXth century by Charles bit the shape of the foot. As a result, you have the
Goodyear Junior, son of Charles Goodyear, the feeling that your shoe is made-to-measure and you
inventor of the vulcanization. The Goodyear welted, cannot give up it.
except with its origins, is completely different of the
vulcanization.
Today, all the great names of the luxury industry:
Technology. Para boot, Weston, Church, Edward Green,
Crocket and Jones… still respect this tradition of
Goodyear Construction. The Goodyear welted is
A Goodyear welted shoe is made with two stitching: the must of the smart shoes for men. In current
The first one called “Goodyear” is realized with the language, Goodyear welted is synonymous of
Goodyear machine. It joins the welt, the upper, and luxury English shoes for men.
the insole.
The second one is made with a “Little Points”

machine. This stitching links the sole with the welt.
This construction is very long-lasting. Other benefit:

the foot is lying on a leather insole which is on a
thickness of natural cork.
Hans van der Elzen

The Bologna construction
The Bologna construction is the best for elegant To give more comfort, the tubular lining is made
and comfortable shoes. This method is quite with two-ply leather reinforced with an extra
expensive and until today, there were just few soft pad positioned where the foot will rest.
famous Italian shoemakers who proposed it.
The Bologna construction is definitely the solution
Technically, the Bologna construction is a Blake one to take advantage of a great comfort without saying
without insole for lasting. This one is replaced by a goodbye to the elegance and the smart touch of
tubular lining which goes all around the foot. formal shoes for men.
Hans van der Elzen

The Real Moccasin
This is a shoe made from a single piece of leather, I only can guaranty that the way we explain it to you
passing around the front part of the foot and under the will result in a very good fitting upper and de lasting
sole. The apron is then sewn on the top to give a firm from these uppers will be very easy and smooth.
but comfortable grip on the foot.
It is very important that the upper will fit on the last
These Shoe types and constructions are a few and correctly as this will have a big influence for the
you will find many of them on the internet web pages. correct fitting for the shoe in total.
It is good to know the most of them.
The next Chapter we will start with “How to make the

correct paper patterns” for several shoe types. There
are many different ways to these paper patterns for
shoe uppers.
Hans van der Elzen

Outsole; profile not too heavy Upper; Sportive looking

with a running roll effect and for shoe.
easy running, high toe-spring.
Rubber and phylon combined
must be light and flexible.
Outsole; with rubber and phylon Upper; Sportive looking

combined, with Lateral TPU shank shoe.
support, stable looking, must
be light in weight. In-sock with
cushion. Also can be Shell-molded
Rubber unit bottom with stitching
around the side wall of
Outsole; with special dots for Upper; Sportive looking

soccer games. Normally 13 studs shoe.
for training and 7 studs for match
in PU injection unit bottom.
Outsole; look like vulcanized. Upper; Sportive looking

shoe for skating with thick
foam on quarter line.
Normally in Blucher look
so that it can be tightened
up on foot.
Outsole; look like vulcanized. Upper; Sportive looking

shoe for skating with
normal foam on heel line.
Hans van der Elzen

Upper; For indoor sports, Outsole; Important: light weight/

like soccer, squash, thin outsole in transparent colors
badminton, table tennis in combination with Eva or Phylon.
and others. Normally in Crepe or gum rubber
sole for wear-resisting.
Upper; Sportive looking Outsole; rubber outsole

shoe, mainly using mesh combined with EVA.
for upper-breathable and
light weight.
Upper; Typical classic Outsole; Rubber look with Eva

styles, mainly made in combined.
leather or action leather.
Upper; Sportive lighter Outsole; light in weight, rubber

look than outdoor type. with at least 80% phylon or Eva
Breathable materials for midsole. Insole with cushion, very
upper and real light weight comfortable for walking.
in total,
Upper; Canvas, easy/ Outsole; rubber or vulcanized

simple/light weight but
mainly in fashion color or
printed textile.
Hans van der Elzen

Outsole; from leather or rubber. Upper; Classic looking

shoe type for daily wear.
Outsole; light in weight. Upper; Fashion looking

shoe, using trendy
materials and color
combinations.
Outsole; stable looking and not Upper; Sportive looking

heavy. Normal lasting or double boot special made for the
lasting with comfortable insole. performance of basketball
games. Normally with
high-cut look for protecting
the ankle bone.
Outsole; medium or heavy profile Upper; Sportive strong

outsole, combination with rubber looking shoe or booth with
and phylon, flexible. resistant materials and
toe and heel protectors.
Similar to the Hiking shoe
but much lighter in total
weight. Can also perform
in high-cut.
Outsole; must be light in weight Upper; Sportive looking

used for mounting walking. With boot High-cut for protecting
medium or heavy outsole profile, ankle with heavy foam
padding collar, for comfort
and flexible issue normally
in combination with heavy
mesh for upper material.
Hans van der Elzen

Paper Patterns 69
CHAPTER 8: PAPER PATTERNS
Hans van der Elzen

70 Paper Patterns
This picture show the most common names of the shoe parts.
Hans van der Elzen

Paper Patterns 71
Sizes Sport shoe Sizes Normal shoe THESE BACKPART SHOE HEIGHTS
Heights Heights MEASUREMENTS ARE WITHOUT IN-
In mm In mm SOLES!
24 54 24 44
We always measure inside of the shoe!
25 55 25 45
DEPENDS ON THE THICKNESS OF THE
26 55 26 45
INSOLES WE MUST ADD THE THICKNESS
27 56 27 46 “EXTRA” TO THESE MEASUREMENTS!
28 56 28 46
***** Please note that you will need
29 57 29 47 these backpart heights when you make
30 57 30 47 paper patterns!
31 60 31 48
32 61 32 49
33 63 33 51
34 63 34 51
35 64 35 52
36 66 36 53
37 66 37 54
38 67 38 55
39 69 39 56
40 69 40 57
41 70 41 58
42 72 42 59
43 72 43 60
44 73 44 61
45 75 45 62
46 75 46 63
47 76 47 64
Hans van der Elzen

72 Paper Patterns
Before we start making paper patterns we need to find and mark the construction points from
the last.
This will be a good help for making the paper last copy and later the paper patterns.
Through the measuring tape we connect A and B.
We start with the measuring tape at the back part line A and then we move
forwards to nose point B.
On the measuring tape we measure with the centimeters visible.
The total centimeters found at point B we keep in our memory for the
second step.
Point A is plus / minus 3 centimeter above the sole side of the last.
(See Fig.1)
(Fig.1)
By the middle of the measuring tape we connect

A and B.
Now the measuring tape is with the French and English

sizes visible, based on the number of centimeters
we found in Fig.1 (for example 30 cm.) we count 30
French sizes.
With the same number in French sizes we

see on the measuring tape, we put a straight
line in 90 degrees to the centerline of the last.
This point is C, Vamp length point.
(See Fig.2)
(Fig.2)
Hans van der Elzen

Paper Patterns 73
(Fig.3) (Fig.5)
By the middle of the measuring tape we connect When we put the last on the correct heel height (XY)
A and B. we can find point F.
The number we found dividing by 2. Point F can be found at the deepest point of the last.
We make a straight line from the measuring tape at We call this point F also Girth point of the last.
90 degrees to the centerline of the last. (See Fig.5)
This point found is the instep point D.

(See Fig.3)
(Fig.4) (Fig.6)
Point E is the heel height and is measured from the Make a straight line from point C to F and divide
sole side of the last upwards. this length by 2.
With each size larger we increase the height about This is the way to find point G.
1 mm up. This point G is called the
(See Fig.4) low lateral instep point. (See Fig.6)
For each size smaller we decrease the height by 1

mm down.
See the table for the heel heights in the beginning
of this book.
Hans van der Elzen

74 Paper Patterns
(Fig.7) (Fig.9)
All found points will be connecting to Point X is on the back part last line, just at the
another point. intersection of the line and the sole heel area of the
last.
Point D is the instep point.
(See Fig.7) Point H is found by connecting points F and X, 2 / 3
part of the distance from X to point H.
Point H is called the quarter support point.

(See Fig.9)
(Fig.8)
Instep point D is drawn at the middle line of the last
and will used as a baseline.
From point D draw one line at a 90 degree line on

the instep
C - D, in order to obtain a helpline from D to D 1.
(See Fig. 8)
Hans van der Elzen

Paper Patterns 75
All fixed lines and layout issues are now fixed on

the last.
Any desired model can now be drawn the in the

right proportion.
Drawing a design on the last you learned and will

see better the real proportions and form of shoe
and last.
(See Fig.10)
Help line G-E is important for your quarter

part height of the shoe. By designing your
quarter part higher than the help line G-E you
will damage the ankle of the feet and walking
will be very pain full.
(Fig.10)
Hans van der Elzen

76
Hans van der Elzen

Fish-bone last copy 77
CHAPTER 9: FISH-BONE LAST COPY
Hans van der Elzen

78 Fish-bone last copy
1. Find the middle line of the last.
The lasts are a-symmetrical, this means

that you find on the outside of the last more
material than on the inside (See last A)
2. To get a clearer picture of the middle line,

the sole part can help you determine where to
capture the center lines.
(See last insole B)
3. Draw the middle line.
Draw on the last the middle line exactly in a

straight line over the last.
Draw these lines very carefully, both for toe

and instep and back part.
Hans van der Elzen

4. Draw the outline of the last.
Place the last with the inside on a sheet of

drawing paper.
The last rest then most stable.
Now draw an outline with the pencil around
the last.
See, before you draw the contour of the
outline the images A-B-C-D.
To obtain a good outline it is important to
keep the pencil vertically along the last parts.
5. Draw a line on 20 mm. distance beyond

the already drawn line of the last, except at
the top of the last, (ankle part).
Here is 15 mm. distance enough!
Then draw a dotted line at 10 mm. distance

within the last line.
The cuts, which we need to cut later, we

draw according to the image.
Note specially the lines on the nose, heel,
and instep parts that need radically to be
drawn.
Hans van der Elzen

6. Cut out Rough copy.
Cut two rough copies.

For the outside part one piece and one for
the inside part of the last.
Cut the drawing carefully in the drawn lines.
7. The copy must be set down on the flanks

of the last.
This avoids twisting of the rough copy of the

last.
8. To apply the rough copy.
Put the rough copy with tacks (nails) of 15 to

20 mm. down the last flanks.
Make sure that the rough cut copy covers all

lines to be draw.
Hans van der Elzen

9. Draw the middle line.
Carefully draw the middle line of the rough

copy.
This copy may not be moved during
drawing.
10. Draw also the top of the last.

Position the last flat on the worktable.
11. The line of the sole side also must be

drawn.
Again be careful that the copy does not

move during drawing the outlines.
Hans van der Elzen

12. Take special care of the toe and heel

part (on the sole side).
Cut the tabs of the rough copy in the same

radius as it is drawn.
See illustrations A and B.
When we don’t do this right then we do not
get a clear line of the last.
13. Cutting the last lines as we have

marked.
Cut the marked lines from the last rough

copy accurately, both inside and outside the
copy.
Avoid any tearing of the rough copy. Provide

a sharp knife,
14. Draw the copies.
Drawing the both obtained copies (inside

and outside last copy) to the drawing paper.
Provide an accurate reproduction.
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15. The copy must be cut straight out, so that we

can make from the surfaces a medium last copy.
16. Draw the medium last copy.
First draw the outside last copy on the

drawing paper.
After that, draw the inside last copy.
The points A-B-C shall be positioned exactly
the same from both rough copies.
(See illustration).
A- Girth point
B- Instep point
C- heel part.
17. Draw the medium, as the images A and

B show.
(Medium is indicated by a dotted line.)
18. Cut the medium last copy.
At the bottom of the copy (sole side) cut

the outer contour lines (points D and E).
Line F we cancel.
Line G shows the inside of the last.

From all other lines we cut the medium.
Now we have a Medium copy.
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84
Hans van der Elzen

Adhesive last copy 85
CHAPTER 10: ADHESIVE LAST COPY
Hans van der Elzen

86 Adhesive last copy
19. How to make a last copy with adhesive

paper tape.
20. Add adhesive tape on the flanks from

both sides of the last. (See illustration B)
Stick the tape in the length and height of the

last in order to avoid stretching later when we
need to pull-off the tape from the last.
21. Draw the middle line on the last in the

same way as you see under point 1, 2, and
3. (See illustration C)
22. Cut exactly the middle line and all other

marked lines out on the last.
(See illustration D)
Hans van der Elzen

Adhesive last copy 87
23. Now you have a clean paper copy still

glued on to the last.
In this way you are able to draw your design
on this adhesive last copy.
(See illustration E).
24. After you have drawn your design pull-off

very carefully the paper copy while stretching
it.
(See illustration F)
25. The adhesive paper copy is removed from

the last.
(See illustration G)
26. Stick the paper copy on drawing paper and

make sure that you do not stretch it.
Stick it down from the middle (see the arrows
on illustration H) to the sides.
27. After the paper copy is applied well to the

drawing paper make the medium copy and cut
it out as you see by the points 15 till 18
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88
Hans van der Elzen

Wet paper last copy 89
CHAPTER 11: WET PAPER LAST COPY
Hans van der Elzen

90 Wet paper last copy
To make a “wet last copy” we take a usual packing paper and cut this paper around the last and then give a
few cuttings as you see on the Illustration.
With small foam we make the paper a little bid wet with normal water. Do not make the paper too wet!
The outlines of the last we mark with a black marker, mainly a black cool marker is ok for it.
Mark as well the girth and instep points as later you will need them.
Hans van der Elzen

Wet paper last copy 91
Put the last carefully on slightly wet paper. Make sure that you put the wet paper against the black market lines
without moving the wet paper in any direction.
This part is not easy as you need to practice several times in the beginning. After finding your way, you will be
able to make a last copy within a few minutes.
See as well the illustrations.
When you have pushed the wet paper against the black lines on the last you can see now these black lines
appear on the wet paper, see illustration right side under.
Hans van der Elzen

92 Wet paper last copy
After you have made from the last, the copy from and that’s what we call our “medium paper copy” of
the lateral and the medial side you must make the the last. This medium last copy we use to set up our
medium paper copy of the last. Draw first the lateral paper pattern.
copy on flat paper with the 3 marked points as you
can see on the illustration at the left upper corner and ONLY when your medium paper last copy is made
then you draw the medial paper copy inside. 100% correct than your paper pattern will fit on the
last.
Important is that both paper copies are crossing
parallel with each other at the points A and B. Now (Of course your paper pattern needs to be made as
you draw a line exactly between the lateral and well 100% correct. Every well made pattern starts
medial paper last copies as you see on the illustration with an 100% correct paper Last Copy)
below (red stipple lines). This new line you cut out
Hans van der Elzen

Construction help lines 93
CHAPTER 12: CONSTRUCTION HELP LINES
Hans van der Elzen

94 Construction help lines
Names of construction points and lines in the copy for low cut paper patterns
1. Vamp length point A. Basic heel height line

2. Instep point B. Heel height line
3. Quarter height point C. Copy line
4. Lateral instep point D. Ball/Girth line
5. Medial instep point E. Lateral quarter line
6. Ball/Girth point F. Medial quarter line
7. Shank point G. Lay on/or lay under helpline
8. Heel height point H. Instep helpline
Hans van der Elzen

(Fig.1)
To get the correct proportion of a shoe design on your last copy we set-up construction lines
as following;
1. Set your paper copy out on the correct heel height A-A1. Make sure that the inside of your copy rest
on the basic line A-B.
2. Point C 1 you find in the same way as we explained on page 72, point C (Fig.2)
3. Point C you find in the same way as we explained on page 73, point F (Fig.5)
4. Point C3 is the half part of C-C1
5. Point C4 is 1/3 part of C-C1
6. Point A2 is the correct quarter height for your shoe size and you find this table on
page 67
7. Line A-D is 15 mm shorter than line A-B
8. Point C2 we calculate from line A-D, where A-C2 is 62% from line A-D
9. After finding the points you see on Fig.1, connect all the points with lines.
Hans van der Elzen

96 Construction help lines
(Fig.2)
The Instep helpline and the Lay on helpline we find as following;
1. Point F we find in the same way as you see on page 73, point D (Fig.3)
2. Point H we explain on page 74, (Fig.9)
3. Connect the points C3-H
4. Draw the line F-G as you see on Fig.2
Hans van der Elzen

Illustration A
When you have some more Illustration B

experience with paper copies
and last measurements you
also can find the important
proportion points as you can
see on the Illustrations A and
B.
Measure always your last as

you can see on Illustration B
(Fig.4)
the length from point A-A1 and

control this on your paper copy.
Hans van der Elzen

98
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 99
CHAPTER 13: DERBY BLUCHER
Hans van der Elzen

100 Derby Blucher
A Derby Blucher for the shoe designer is one of It is possible that two different shoe designers are
the most satisfying shoe types. On this type of shoe modeling on the same last the derby Moliere and that
he can design many variations of application. The one shoe designer create a perfect fit, while the other
closure of this type of shoe adapts well to the foot, so creates the opposite result.
that a perfect fit can be achieved.
Sometimes in a situation like this they thinking that
It is this type of shoe that you see a lot from the the bad fitting of the last cause the wrong look but
orthopedics and footwear manufactures, as sport, is in fact a question of wrong modeling. The correct
walking, or comfort shoes. The proper modeling of modeling for standards we explain step by step in this
this type of shoe is very important because many book. Drawing a paper pattern in the correct manner
people wear this type of shoe. we ensure proper fit of the upper on each type of last.
When the last has the right fit it can be that by
incorrectly modeling the correct fit it can turn out
negatively.
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 101
1. Toecap A. Folding line H. Quarter back line

2. Vamp B. Quarter flap line J. Vamp under lay line
3. Yelets holes C. Vamp quarter line K. Trench stitching line
4. Tongue D. Lateral quarter line L. Montage folding line
E. Medial quarter line M. Paper copy line
5. Medial quarter part
N. Toecap line
6. Lateral quarter part F. Quarter lay-on line
G. Tongue line
Hans van der Elzen

102 Derby Blucher
Illustration 1
Illustration 2
e r-lay
Und
Illustration 3
Every pattern part what is stitched UNDER another

pattern part must have under-lay.
The under-lay is normally 10 mm wide. Illustration

2 shows you that the vamp (B) has under-lay for the
toe-puff (A) and the quarter part (C).
For the finish of model lines (cutting edges) we

can make side folding of the upper material. For
side folding we add 5 mm to the pattern parts, see
illustration 3 in blue color.
On upper vamp part B we mark the under-lay lines for the correct stitching from the upper material parts A an C.
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 103
(Fig.2)
The quarter line (lateral) of a Blucher is not an easy line to draw.

Create a distribution of the help lines (see picture) so it is somewhat easier to draw the quarter line
in the appropriate way. (Fig.2)
(Fig.3)
The dotted line A is the normal quarter line, line B is a quarter line that is drawn too high. The quarter
Line B will cut in the foot and will hurt the ankle, while the design of the quarterback will look to heavy
(Fig.3).
Hans van der Elzen

104 Derby Blucher
(Fig.4)
Dotted line A is the normal quarter line. Quarter Line B is a quarter line that is drawn too low.
Quarter Line B will yawn and therefore will stay open from the last, because the lines are very close
to the flanks of the last. (Fig.4)
(Fig.5)
The modeling of a low shoe type has a medial and lateral quarter line. This is necessary in
connection with the arches; the arch is medially higher than laterally. Both quarter construction
lines indicate how the quarter lines must be drawn. (Fig.5)
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 105
(Fig.6)
On Illustration 1, the “quarter back part line” the counter. Point A is drawn too much inside
is a line that must fit perfectly on the last. the paper pattern and this will damage the feet.
It is very important that we draw the “quarter
back part line”, 3 mm inside the paper copy. On illustration 3, you see that the “quarter
At the heel height we draw the “quarter back back part line” by point A is not drawn inside
part line” 2 mm outside the paper copy in of the paper pattern. The feet will slip out of the
order to give space for the counter between the shoe during walking.
lining and upper leather.
On illustration 2, you see the “quarter back

part line” too round and therefore point B will
not fit on the last and gives too much space for
Hans van der Elzen

106 Derby Blucher
Fig.7)
The quarter flaps from the Blucher Derby must follow as close as possible to the construction lines
of the paper copy (A).The vamp quarter line we draw 4 mm below the lateral quarter line in order to
get enough and good instep space. (See fig.7).
(Fig.8)
Fig. 8, see the correct quarter flaps from a Blucher Derby on the last shape.
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 107
(Fig.9)
The quarter flaps from the Blucher Derby are drawn to round below the construction lines (A). This
will result in an ugly look for this type of shoe (Fig.9).
(Fig.10)
Fig.10, see the quarter flaps from a Blucher Derby on the last shape when the lines are not correctly
drawn.
Hans van der Elzen

108 Derby Blucher
(Fig.11)
Illustration 1, the lay-on lines we draw in a On illustration 2, you see point A is the normal
way that we have enough space on the quarter lay-on line. B is drawn too low and the quarter
between the quarter line and lay-on line, for part at this point looks too heavy and not nice.
adding an application stitching.
On Illustration 3, you see A as the normal lay-
The trenches we stitch on the quarters are 12 on line. B is drawn too high and the quarter part
mm long for thin calf leather, and 15 mm long at this point is too small and the look is not nice.
for thicker leather. The trenches we stitch 10 mm
above the lay-on line.
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 109
(Fig. 12)
After we have drawn the quarter part and Both quarters (medial and lateral) must have
trenches we set-up the folding line points. the correct space between the trenches
(A folding line is the line where we fold the otherwise the upper will not fit correctly on the
paper in order to make the vamp and other last.
parts of the paper patterns).
The leather between the trenches will show
The folding point for the vamp we set-up with a wrinkles and after the last is pull out from the
winkle. finished shoe the shoe will show a bad and ugly
- The winkle we place on line A. at the shape.
top of the paper copy (Fig.12).
(See Fig.2, on Page 96, Line A is the line
through point C1 and point F)
- Point C is at the end of the trench
from the quarter part.
In this way we find the exact space needed

between the medial and lateral trenches.
Point B is the correct folding point for the vamp.
Hans van der Elzen

110 Derby Blucher
(Fig.13
Fig.13, point 1 we found with the winkle, point the vamp by a Blucher is not stitched. Therefore
2 we find at the top of the last and set-up on the a folding line drawn at the nose-point under the
paper pattern, 3 mm inside of the paper copy. paper copy will give extra force to the flanks of
The measurement for point 2 is the distance the last and the vamp will not be pushed too
between the sole side and the nose-top of the much to the front. By montage of the upper on
last. At this point 2, the folding line lay under the the last, it will be easier when front part of the
last copy. Here we save leather material and upper is already looking downwards (through the
by montage the upper on the last we get fewer correct folding line) and easy to place between
wrinkles. The leather between the trenches on the grips of the molding machine.
(Fig.14)
After finding the points 1 and 2 we can draw the folding line 3 on the paper pattern (Fig.14).
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 111
(Fig.15)
Fig.15 shows clearly how we need to drawn a folding line for a Blucher Derby.
Winkle A, is the correct way, equal to the copy line C1-F.
Winkle B, is in the wrong way, too low and under the instep point.
Winkle C, is in the wrong way, too high above the instep point.
It is VERY IMPORTANT that you set-up the folding line correct, by not set-up the folding line correctly
it will influence the fitting and the look of the shoe in a very negative way.
Hans van der Elzen

112 Derby Blucher
(Fig.16)
For the montage of the upper on the last we 3. The system we use for the
need to fold the upper material on the insole. montage of the shoe.
How much we need to extend on the upper
material depends on; As standard norm we use for folding 16 mm, at
1. The thickness of the insole the shank part 18 mm and at the nose part
2. The thickness of upper leather and 15 mm. (See Fig.16)
lining
(Fig.17)
The length for the tongue we can measure length by 10 mm. During the montage of the
exactly. Measure the length from the end of the upper on the last point C will be pushed a few
trench point A and instep point B. Then from the mm to the front. The reason for this is that the
same trench point A we set out the same length vamp and the quarter part between the trenches
to the folding vamp line point C. We extend this are not stitched together. (See Fig.17)
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 113
(Fig.18)
When we know the correct measurement of the Draw the tongue line to the end of the trenches
tongue we can draw the tongue line with a small and then continue the drawing line with a distance
curve between the quarter help lines. of 10 mm the lay-on help line (See Fig.18).
Depending on the shoe size the tongue is

between 6 and 7 cm wide (see A).
Fig.19 shows you how we need to

design the tongue of the shoe.
The feet get during the day bigger,

around 5%. The quarter flaps will
get more distance from each other
by point B.
The tongue must protect our feet by

point A.
A tongue that is wide enough will

protect our feet better and give
us also the possibility to place a
softer material when necessary by
exostosis.
(Fig.19)
Hans van der Elzen

114 Derby Blucher
(Fig.20)
When we draw the tongue we make several times and the feet gets less protection especially at the
the mistake at the beginning of folded vamp line. first point of eyelets and laces (See Fig.20).
The tongue line we draw is too small at this place
(Fig.21)
Also it happens that we draw the tongue line too Draw always the tongue line at the folded vamp
round, (see by point B) here count the same as line a little curved as you can see on page 113
we explain by Fig.20. (Fig.19)
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 115
(Fig.22)
The small lace or eyelet holes we set-up in general When we want to put bigger lace or eyelets
10 to 12 mm from the sides of the quarter flaps. holes we must add them with greater distances
The distance between them is around 15 mm. from each other. Reinforce the quarter flaps,
We must take care that we don’t put them to especially when you use thin upper leathers.
close to the sides, because during the closing of (Fig.22)
the laces we risk that they will tear out.
(Fig.23)
It is VERY IMPORTANT that the quarter top shoe it will damage the ankle and make it almost
part lines (see A and B) are drawn UNDER the impossible to walk (Fig.23).
medial and lateral quarter help lines. When Later in this book I will explain how to draw these
you draw these points A and B higher, than the quarter top part lines for Sportive shoes.
Hans van der Elzen

116 Derby Blucher
(Fig.24)
To draw the quarter lining must be done very trenches points as at those points the quarter
carefully. The quarter lining must fit perfectly in and vamp lining must fit together. At the back
the upper quarter part. The patterns for the lining part of the quarter we must take in (shorten), the
we make 4 mm bigger at the quarter flaps as counter must fit between the lining and upper
then we can stitch the lining better to the upper material. By not shorten enough will lead to many
material. Especially take care at the end of the wrinkles in the back part of the shoe (Fig.24).
(Fig.25)
The vamp lining we draw 2 mm under the folding together. At the side parts, the quarter and vamp
line at the nose-part from the upper material. lining overlay is 10 mm.
At the tongue we make the vamp lining 2 mm These parts we stitch first together and after that
larger for stitching the vamp lining to the upper. we place and glue the lining inside of the upper.
By the end of the trenches both parts After stitching we remove the extra lining from
(quarter and vamp) of the lining fit perfectly the upper material (Fig.25).
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 117
Low cut shoe paper pattern with Velcro straps
(Fig.26)
1. Draw on your paper copy the help lines.

2. Draw the eyelet stay, point B. 10 mm to the front direction from point A, Fig.26.
(Here we get a better instep for the feet)
(Fig.27)
3. Draw two or more Velcro straps (depended the design) A and B.

4. Draw the Velcro straps 5 mm higher than the paper copy to the folding line C – D, Fig.27
(Due to the fact that the tongue and upper materials are under need the Velcro straps we need to enlarge
these Velcro straps otherwise they will be too short when the shoe is ready)
Hans van der Elzen

118 Derby Blucher
(Fig.28)
5. Draw the eyelet stay and mark the lines E – F on it.

6. Extend the Velcro straps to the lines E – F, Fig.28
(With many designs you will be not able to make the eyelet stay in one piece as you
see on this illustration, make than the cut under line E)
(Fig.29)
For your design there are many ways “how to make the inside look” of the shoe
with Velcro straps. You can add extra pieces from upper materials, using big
eyelets in the eyelets strap or only one piece of upper material, see Fig.29.
Hans van der Elzen

Derby Blucher 119
The standard Derby Blucher knows 4 original styles.

See below pictures
Hans van der Elzen

120
Hans van der Elzen

Balmoral 121
CHAPTER 14: BALMORAL
Hans van der Elzen

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1

I have written this book in memory

Great-Grandfather, Grandfather, and my Father,

I am the last one in our Family who was able to

My Intention with this book is to explain our Family’s

To those, like our family, who love high quality shoes.

Hans van der Elzen

Title: All about shoes and techniques

Author: Elzen, Hans van der

Hans van der Elzen

When I finished this training,

Hans van der Elzen

My family (from my father’s side)

As I am the last one in our family

The experience my great-grandfa- My new book was written using the

Hans van der Elzen

Hij was in zijn tijd de beste leraar in ’t schoenvak

Baardwijk + J.v.d. Elzen +

March 8 J.L. died at age 60 years at Baardwijk, Mr.

His work was frequently rewarded with gold.

He was in his time the best shoe teacher for 30

Men schrijft ons:

8 Maart J.L. overleed in de ouderdom van 60 jaren

Hans van der Elzen

Chapter 1: Length measurements Page 5

Chapter 2: Girth measurements Page 13

Chapter 3: Insole, last construction Page 25

Chapter 4: Feet blue prints Page 35

Chapter 5: Last construction Page 39

Chapter 6: Proportions Page 51

Chapter 7: Shoe types and construction Page 55

Chapter 8: Paper patterns/shoe backpart heights Page 69

Chapter 9: Fish-bone, last copy Page 77

Chapter 10: Adhesive paper, last copy Page 85

Chapter 11: Wet paper, last copy Page 89

Chapter 12: Construction help lines for paper patterns Page 93

Chapter 13: Blucher Derby low cut shoe Page 99

Chapter 14: Balmoral low cut shoe Page 121

Chapter 15: Women’s pump shoe Page 135

Chapter 16: Stitch-down low cut shoe Page 147

Chapter 17: Strobel running shoe Page 151

Chapter 19: Moccasin shoe Page 169

Chapter 20: T-Band low cut shoe Page 175

Chapter 21: Children’s high boot Page 177

Chapter 22: Cutting edges for uppers Page 181

Chapter 23: Pattern grading Page 185

Chapter 25: Designs made with Photoshop Page 207

Hans van der Elzen

CHAPTER 1: LENGTH MEASUREMENTS

Hans van der Elzen

3 out of 4 Americans experience serious

It´s neglect and a lack of awareness of proper

Conditions such as arthritis, diabetes, nerve and cir-

Arthritis is the number one cause of disability in

Hans van der Elzen

Shocking Foot Facts exposing themselves to serious foot problems that

In addition, more than 75% of UK adults suffer