Julia Wang Prof.

Barton

Cultural and Political Aspects of Paella in Spanish Cuisine

HNSC 2222 Foods of Diverse Population

Prof Scott Barton

Julia Wang

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Julia Wang Prof. Barton

Abstract

The Spanish dish of paella is unarguably one of the most worldwide known rice dishes

and also the most consumed food among Spaniards themselves. Although many different

versions can be found, from the mix of meat and seafood in the “paella Valenciana” to the

vegetarian option of “paella de verdura”, the main ingredients to make a paella are rice, saffron

and olive oil, all essential to the Spanish cuisine. Paella is, in fact, one of the most emblematic

national food and many studies about this dish have been done so far in the culinary field. In this

paper, however, I will examine the cultural and political importance of paella in the Spanish

context, its gender role, mark of multiculturality and if it can be considered a symbol of modern

identity that strengths the sense of nationality among the autonomous communities. Has this dish

been influenced by the many immigration waves that historically inhabited the Iberic Peninsula?

What are the contributions of these diverse communities to the contemporary Spanish

gastronomy and culture? Finally, is this emblematic dish enough to sustain a patriotic feeling in a

country that has been struggling with emancipation movements, specifically in the Catalan

region?

Introduction

Known for its appreciation for food, Spain is a worldwide recognized country when it

comes to gastronomy, export of food products and adoption of the Mediterranean diet. Its long

history, rich in details and ties with other countries, allowed the formation of a multicultural

population and development of the Spanish modern gastronomy. Paella, the most famous dish

abroad, is a tasty, well-balanced and high nutritional food, containing good sources and

quantities of all macro and micronutrients, dietary fiber and phytotherapic spices. Although

many studies about this dish and its ingredients have been done so far, not many emphasized

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paella as a product of the diverse historical influences and events in Spain and its importance

within the cultural and political contexts of the country. I will analyze the existence of influences

from many different cultures and religions that inhabited the Iberian region throughout its history

in the cuisine and its ties to essential components of the dish, such as rice, olive oil and saffron,

and modern regional dishes. I will also examine the relationship of paella to specific

communities, Valencia and Cataluña, and if this bond is strong enough to build sentiments of

identity and patriotism in the pro-separatist Catalan region. I hypothesize that the Spanish cuisine

has been influenced by the immigration pattern prior to nation formation and is essential in

building patriotism feeling among citizens.

Methodology

A secondary analysis of ethnological researches, peer reviewed articles and cooking

books was conducted to find factors that may have influenced the origin and emergence of paella

in the Spanish cuisine. Similar dishes from diverse cultures were considered and analyzed to

examine precedents and descendants and the main ingredients of the cuisine were studied to

investigate possible cultural and religious influences throughout history. In addition, local news

and case studies provided data to measure the importance of gastronomy to the political,

sociological and economical contexts of Spain.

Results and Discussion

The data collected shows that the Spanish culture has been influenced by the many

different populations that inhabited the region, and their contribution can still be seen in the

modern diet pattern. The Moors, with greater occupancy at Andalucía, introduced pasta

(Andrews, 2012, p. 196), coffee (Civitello, p.160-164), almonds, citrus fruits like oranges, spices

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like saffron, rice and the sophisticated irrigation system that allowed its cultivation (Olver,

2015), and vegetables like spinach and eggplants in Cataluña (2)(4). Their contribution is also

seen in dishes, such as albóndigas (5), fideus and escudella (Cataluña), cazuela de berenjena

(Córdoba), in language – aceite (6) – cookbooks and cooking methods (7). The casseroles of rice

and fish (8) and the tradition of combining many ingredients in a single dish is actually an Arabic

heritage (5) that have been incorporated into the Spanish culture and originated paella. Ancient

Greek foods were also brought to the Iberian Peninsula and integrated into the diet, including

olives, grains and bread, fish and meat, especially rabbit, and grapes (6). This contribution is

notorious in the Mediterranean diet, linked to 25% lower chances of developing cardiovascular

diseases and decreased risks of cognitive issues by preservation of telomere length (9). Hence,

Greek heritage is shown in the encouraged, yet moderated, consumption of olive oil, wine and

whole grains, which phytochemical properties aid in disease prevention and prolonged lifespan.

Moreover, religious influences are also perceived in the cuisine and food choices of

Spaniards. The main religion Christianity was brought by the Roman Empire and reinforced after

Moors expulsion during reign of Isabella de Castilla and Fernando de Aragon (10), in an attempt

to unify the segregated territories and establish a single catholic identity. Christian and Roman

heritage shows in the use of herbs and foods such as gazpacho (11), jamón and chorizo. These

latter two, in especial, shows the contribution of Christianity in the consumption of pork meat in

the Spanish cuisine, a food that is forbidden in the other prevalent religions, Judaism and

Islamism (5). In fact, Sephardi Jews that opted not to migrate during the unification period were

forced to convert into Christianity and adopt its rules, including consumption of pork. This

measure has originated the practice of cooking pork for neighbors (5) and foods using lard, such

as ensaimada (Mallorca) (12), to avoid persecution. The new converted ones, however, would

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still not consume themselves the dish, causing a dietary distinction between Old and New

Christians, which could explain the avoidance of pork in colonial countries after Sephardi

diaspora. Additionally, the consumption of fish is associated to Jewish dietary laws and Christian

lent, and wine and bread to the Catholic ideals.

The colonization of the New World has also resulted in significant contribution to the

Spanish cuisine, with many native American foods being incorporated into dishes and recipes.

Paprika (5), chocolate, onion, tomatoes and potatoes (13) were well accepted in the cuisine and

can be seen in paella and gazpacho. Potatoes, in especial, became so essential that substituted

chestnuts (2) and are very consumed in patatas bravas and tortilla de patatas to this date.

Spaniards have also introduced their foods to the New World, such as oranges and coffee (13),

showing, therefore, Moors traces in the Columbian exchange. Important to note, this sharing has

occurred not only between Spain and America, but also Spanish colonies in North Africa, with

introduction of maize (13) and cooking methods (14). The exchange between the Old and New

World, therefore, happened through food and knowledge, and influenced the arise of national

dishes in the countries.

Similarities between paella and national dishes in countries of Middle East, Africa and

America shows occurrence of culture trade between the multiethnic communities in Spain and

suggests relationship of dishes to the Spanish rice dish. Paella is thought to have evolved from

the Indian pulao, which itself is associated to the Turkish pilaf (11), both rice dishes. This is

explained by the unification and acculturation of Middle Eastern countries under the Ottoman

Empire and the practice of traveling, factors that contributed to the Islamic diet and share of

recipes. In fact, kushan is the earliest mention of a similar dish, made with rice, meat and

vegetables, and was documented by a Muslim traveler in Somalia (14). Furthermore, this

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combination of ingredients is also present in jollof (15), consumed throughout West Africa but

originated in Senegal. No relationship between the two was found in the books, however there

may exist an association due to the French colonization of Senegal and geographic proximity

between Spain and France. Algeria, another previous French colony, also has a similar dish to

paella (16). Jollof influenced the creation of jambalaya (17) by African slaves in the USA, in an

attempt to maintain dietary traditions. A similar pattern happened in Brazil with the creation of

feijoada (2), a dish composed of rice and beans, by slaves from Africa. Another rice and beans

dish appreciated in Cuba, moros y cristianos (11), celebrates the expulsion of Moors in Spain

and it symbolizes the skin tone of Moors and Christians. Paella, therefore, may have had its

precedents rooted in the Islamic culture and is associated to rice dishes in colonial countries.

In the Spanish cuisine, the origin of modern paella is traced to Valencia and its

integration to culture was accompanied by gender role and strict preparation rules. Although the

Moors introduced rice to the region, it only became a national staple after their expulsion, when

crops became restricted to the La Albufera region, close to Valencia, to contain endemics of

malaria (Andrews, 2012, p. 209). Ethnological studies show the paella de verdure is the oldest

version (16), created by rice growers using own on season garden vegetables in the dish. In fact,

paella is not a seafood nor meat dish, as sold internationally, but a rice dish with many versions

and variable ingredients (14). Besides the vegetarian, the paella de marisco (with only seafood),

paella mixta (combination of meat, seafood and vegetables) and paella Valenciana (also a

combination of protein and greens) are commonly found versions (8). This latter requires strict

rules, such as inclusion of specific ingredients and use of wood fire, that distinguishes it from

other regional paellas (16). General rules include use of short grain and paellera, no stir once the

rice is added and no imbalance of ingredients, since the rice must be predominant (14). The

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paellera, a wide round pan from which the name comes from, allows even distribution of heat

and is found in varied sizes to suit the number of people to be served. Additionally, paella was

only – and the only dish – cooked by men. If mastered, the complicated baroque style, delicate

cooking of rice and difficult handling of fire gave social status to men (16), who cooked it

outside home to show society their skills. Paella only transitioned into the female kitchen with

the economic shift into industrialization and rural exodus, which made it difficult to cook in the

traditional way. Thus, the traditional paella was a male monopoly that started in Valencia and

required specific preparations.

The paella has importance in political, economic, social and cultural contexts, but it is an

identification object specifically to the Valencian region. The political tourism implemented

during Franco’s regime developed paella as a national culinary symbol worldwide. This culinary

tourism became fundamental to Spain’s economy, with gastronomy becoming the greatest sector

(25% of total economy) and increased of up to 75 million tourists within the last year (18). In

this way, the country spread awareness of its country, culture and cuisine, with paella becoming

known internationally. In supermarkets, specific rice for paella can be found at a higher price,

with yellow color to mimic the saffron and special labels to uphold its status. The economic

importance of the gastronomy is also seen in the export of products, with Spain being the main

producer of olive oil (more than half of the 69% EU trades) and wine worldwide (19). In the

social context, paella is used in gastropolitics to mobilize local groups for realization of a

common goal. However, this applies only to Valencia, where rice is an essential and basic crop

(14) and paella trips and festivals are important community celebrations (16). Just as kimchi in

South Korea, the preparation of the rice fish in festivals requires group cohesion and union for

realization of common goal. The paella trip is a ritual with thoroughly selection of ingredients

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and firewood, and the cooking in festivals is performed by many, with detailed preparation and

constant check of food while on heat. This allows confraternization of individuals, with sharing

of food and conversations about preparation and taste after the feast. Paella is also used as a

political identity in that region, a way to promote events and identification with determined

organizations. Ecological NGOs would, for instance, opt for vegetarian paellas to promote

sustainability (16). These implications and events, restricted to Valencia, emphasizes the

importance of the authentic paella in the regional cuisine.

Nevertheless, the case study in the pro-separatist Cataluña shows that paella does not

induce a national sentiment strong enough to sustain patriotic identity. When analyzing the

rationality behind the emancipation movement, Cataluña shows a different and unique history,

language, and cuisine (20), ideals that are necessary to interconnect communities. The repression

under France’s control and Franco dictatorship instituted food as an important symbol of identity

and is still seen nowadays as a way to connect to their history. The local cuisine is recognized

and protected under the Llei 2, 1993 as a traditional culture and heritage (20), and incorporates

gastronationalism ideals of slow cook, seasonality, locality and landscape (4). The preference

and consumption of products that are exclusive to the region and cultivated in their own land

emphasizes the local gastronomy and unique identity. The low consumption and exclusion of

paella ritual in Cataluña’s tradition shows indifference of the dish to the local cuisine. It is

noteworthy that the distinctiveness of their cuisine is not related only to food but also recipes and

methodology, the way ingredients are prepared and integrated into culture through cooking (20).

The tradition of inscribing cookbooks came from Catalan Moors, with many early modern books

mirroring Muslim books (7) while emphasizing Christian dietary laws (6), showing again the

influence of diverse factors in their recipes. Distinct recipes, food preferences and cuisine ideals

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developed a unique identity to Cataluña, yet does not promote identification to other

communities.

Conclusion

The Spanish modern gastronomy is a reflection of its historical multiculturality, with

inclusion and influence of diverse cultures in recipes, dishes and cooking methods. Paella, not an

exception, influenced and was influenced by many rice dishes in the Middle East, North Africa

and America. Contrary to the popular belief, it is not a seafood dish but a mainly rice one with

varied ingredients in balanced proportions that will not overshadow the main component and can

be found in many different versions. The most known, paella Valenciana, plays a fundamental

role in cultural, sociological, political and economic spheres of that specific region, follows

rigorous preparation rules to maintain its authenticity and was an exclusive male monopoly prior

industrialization of the country. Hence, international dishes of the same name are paella mixta

rather than Valenciana. Although it is a symbol of identity among expats and Spanish tourists

abroad, paella is insufficient in maintaining nationalism feelings within the country, especially in

the pro-independent Cataluña community, which legally protected cuisine contains elements,

ideals and preferred dishes that are particular to that area.

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References

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18. López, J. (2018, August 28). El 'boom' gastronómico, más que una moda pasajera. Retrieved
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19. Maté, V. (2016, February 29). Spain tops global wine export table, but is selling product cheap.
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