Blomma Tank

VIEW A, FRONT VIEW B, FRONT

BACK
 Pattern Details

VIEW A The Blomma Tank is my favorite tank to make and wear, I hope
you like it too! (Blomma means flower in my native tongue,
Swedish)
3/4” (2 cm) wide B-cup It is tightfitting over the chest, waist, and hips, and features an
bias bindings
athletic silhouette. The bindings are quite wide. If you would like
to change the width of the bindings, it’s as easy as changing the
seam allowance to your desired width.

View A is designed for people with a B-cup bust, and View B has
an added dart to accommodate a D-cup bust.
5” (12.5 cm) negative
ease around bust FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS

This tank works best in a jersey knit with at least 40% stretch
crossgrain (from selvedge to selvedge). You will find a stretch
guide on your pattern pieces. If using a knit fabric with not
VIEW B enough stretch, you might want to size up. The stretch in the
fabric will also effect how the bindings sit, not enough stretch
D-cup and they won’t lay flat against your body. A typical “t-shirt” fabric
is usually 100% cotton and will not stretch enough or have
enough recovery (how fast it bounces back when you stretch it).
Bust darts You will need fabric with some elastane/spandex in it. Try one of
these; bamboo jersey, rayon jersey, modal jersey, cotton mix
jersey or rib knits.

NOTIONS SIZING LEVEL

Thread 0-16 Beginner
Ballpoint needle
(optional double needle)

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Fit Guide, B-cup/View A

5’ 7” (170 cm)

A
B

D
E

A
B

3
Fit Guide, D-cup/View B

5’ 7” (170 cm)

A
B

D
E

F
C

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 How To Sew With Knits

- Use a ballpoint needle. They may sometimes also be All pieces have 3/8” seam allowance (1 cm) unless speci-
called “jersey needle” or “stretch needle”. These needles fied. Use narrow zig zag on seam unless specified.
are more blunt and have a rounded tip. This is so they
don’t cut the elastic threads in the fabric and/or skip
stitches.
RIGHT WRONG
- Don’t pull the fabric when sewing, instead just gently
SIDE SIDE
guide it through. If you find you need more control, hold
the fabric both behind and in front of the foot for less of a
chance of stretching the fabric.

- Gently press it out with steam if the seams are looking

wavy. Steam will retract the fabric nicely. Don’t use too
high of heat, as this might leave shiny marks where the
elastic threads in the fabric have melted.

- Always use a zig-zag stitch when sewing with knits.

A narrow zig-zag will have more give so the seams don’t
break when putting on the garment. You can also use an
overlocker to sew the main seams, but you don’t need
one! You can sew this top entirely on your regular
home-sewing machine.

- You don’t need a double needle for this top, but if you
want that store-bought look, you can certainly use one. If
you choose to use a double-needle, I recommend folding Narrow Medium Wide
the hem twice instead of once. This is because I find that zig-zag zig-zag zig-zag
double-needles can tend to “tunnel” on the backside. 1.5 mm wide 3 mm wide 4-5 mm wide
Using three layers of fabric instead of two will help fight 2.5 mm long 2.5 mm long 2.5 mm long
this.

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 Printing

GETTING STARTED

1. FIND YOUR SIZE.

Use the body measurements chart to determine your
size. Go mainly by your upper bust measurement.
If your upper bust and bust have around a 2” difference,
choose View A. If the differ ence is closer to 4”, go with
View B.

2. CHOOSE YOUR STYLE.

Decide on which View you want to make and print
that file. Make sure you print at 100% scale. Print Page 1
first to make sure the test square measures accurately.
You also have the files to print at a copyshop if you’d
like.

3. TAPE YOUR PATTERN TOGETHER.

I like to hold the pages up to a window to match the
markings easily without having to cut the borders. You
can also choose to cut all borders and tape together
that way.

4. PLACE YOUR PIECES.

Place your pattern pieces according to their grain lines
on your fabric and cut them out. Please see the next
page for fabric estimation and layout. Be careful to
PIECE LIST also transfer all the notches and marking the tip of the
darts onto your fabric.
1A..........VIEW A front, B-cup, cut 1
1B...........VIEW B front, D-cup, cut 1
2.............back, cut 1
3..............armband, cut 2
4.............neckband, cut 1
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 Pattern Lay Out

Estimation for knit fabric 45”/115 cm wide Estimation for knit fabric 60”/150 cm wide
12-16

Sizes 0-10: 1.1 yards/ 100 cm Sizes 0-16: 1 yard / 92 cm

Sizes 12-16: 2 yards / 180 cm

0-16
SELVEDGE

ON FOLD
PUA TANK
FRONT
D-CUP

SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE
CUT 1

0-10
SELVEDGE
SELVEDGE

ON FOLD

ON FOLD
PUA TANK PUA TANK
FRONT BACK
B-CUP CUT 1
CUT 1
ON FOLD

ON FOLD

ON FOLD

PUA TANK
FRONT PUA TANK PUA TANK
B-CUP BACK BACK
CUT 1 CUT 1 CUT 1

SELVEDGE
PUA TANK

4
NECKBAND
CUT 1

PUA TANK

3
ARMBAND
CUT 2
SELVEDGE

PUA TANK
4

NECKBAND
CUT 1

PUA TANK
ARMBAND
3

CUT 2

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PUA TANK
3

ARMBAND
CUT 2
 Instructions

Be careful when handling your pieces, so you don’t

stretch out the necklines and armholes while sewing.

Only do step 1 if you are sewing the D-cup tank.

If you are sewing B-cup tank, go straight to step 2.

2. Stitch shoulder and side seams right sides

1. Sew bust darts. Start at side seam and leave a
trail of thread at the point and double knot it.
You can draw a line on the back of the fabric to
follow if you like. Make the tip of the dart slightly
rounded toward the folded edge. If you sew it more
blunt, the dart will have a little bubble when you
wear the tank.
Press darts downward.
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together with 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Sew each
side in the same direction to prevent twisting
when wearing the garment. Finish seams together
by zig-zagging the raw edge with a wide zig-zag.
You can use your serger to sew these seams if you
prefer. Feed the tail of your serger thread back into
the serger loops using a hand sewing needle or
tapestry needle at the bottom of the side seams.
Press seams towards the back.
 Instructions

3. Fold neckband and armband pieces in half, 5. Match seam and notch and mark with pins or
right sides together, and stitch with 3/8” (1 cm) seam a pen in the folds. This is called “quartering”. Do this
allowance. to all bands.

Put pins or make a

mark on the center
notch on all bands.

4. Press neckband and armbands seam

allowance open.

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 Instructions

6. Now we need to quarter the neckhole and 7. Place the notches on top of each other. You
armholes. should now have a fold a little bit past the shoulder
Fold your garment so the shoulder seams meet seam, toward center front. Mark this fold with pins
and the center front and center back notches are or a pen, each fabric layer separately.
in the fold.

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 Instructions

9. Pin neckband to neckhole right sides together,

8. For the armholes, start at the side seam and be careful to match all notches. The neckband will be
walk front and back armholes up to find the middle. smaller than neckhole, so carefully stretch the neck-
Then, hold side seam and your new mark together band in between the notches and pin, being careful
to find the quarter folds. not to stretch the neckline on the bodice.

Mark the folds with pins or a pen. It should look

similar to this when they are all quartered.
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 Instructions

10. Stitch 1/4”(6 mm) from the edge all around

the neckhole with the binding side up. This is to
keep the seam allowance in place, since the bind-
ing will be quite wide and too hard to control
otherwise. As you’re sewing the neckline, stretch
the band to fit the neckhole, but make sure you
don’t stretch the actual neckhole.
11. Sew a second seam around the neck-
hole 3/4”(2 cm) from the edge.
Repeat step 9-11 on both armholes before
continuing on to step 12. Align the armband
seam at the armpit seam.

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 Instructions

12. Press band away from bodice and fold band 13. Sew 1/8”(3 mm) from the seam from the right
over to wrong side, so the raw edge just meets the side with a wide zig zag stitch, or a double needle,
seam line. Pin all around. making sure to catch the raw edge underneath.

Repeat step 12-13 on both armholes.

10.

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 Instructions

14. For the hem you can either fold it 1”(2.5 cm) toward Congratulations!
the wrong side and pin and stitch using a wide zig-zag,
making sure to catch the raw edge. You can also use You have finished the Blomma Tank.
Heat and Bond tape in the hem fold to make it sturdier.
If you post your make on instagram, use the hashtag
If you choose to use a double needle, I suggest folding #BlommaTank so I can see your gorgeous self in it!
1/2”, and then 1” again, so that you will sew through three
layers instead of two. This might help your seam to come
out nicer, as double needles can tend to “tunnel”. Thank you for supporting my small business,

Give your top a final, steamy press, and pat yourself on Legal disclaimer: This pattern and instructions that come with it are
the back. Good job! copyrighted by Paradise Patterns. You may only use this for personal
use. If you would like to use it commercially, please contact me at
sanna@paradisepatterns.com

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 Blomma Tank Pattern Edits

Change the width of the bias Change the shape of the neckline or armholes

If you would like a different width of the finished binding,
that is easily changed. The shoulder width as it is now
can handle 1”(2.5 cm) wide bindings, and you can make
them as narrow as 3/8” (1 cm)
Simply choose how wide you want them, triple that
number, and add 1/4” (7 mm). The extra little 1/4” is
because you need some length to go over the the two
folds you make during sewing.
When you do sew you bindings, simply use the seam
allowance of your desired width.
If you would like a different shape of your neckline or
armholes, simply draw the new line on your pattern
pieces. Measure the new line. Take that measurement
and times it 0.93. This means that the band is 93% the
length of the hole it is going into. I have found this to be a
good percentage so the binding doesn’t come out wavy.
Different fabrics might need different lengths, you could
try 90% if the band is not sitting flat against your body.

1. Measure new neckline

For 1” bindings, see For 0.5” bindings,
example below see example below

1” 1” 1” 1/4” 1/2” 1/2” 1/2” 1/4” 2. Take that number and

times it by 93%

For example: new neckline

has a 27” circumference

27” x 0.93 = 25.11”

New neckband length is

final width is 3.25 final width is 1.75
25.1” + 0.375” + 0.375” = 25.86”

don’t forget to
add seam allowance