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Effect of enzymatic and mechanical treatment on

combined desizing and bio-polishing of cotton fabrics
ab a a
Amirhossein Esfandiari , Elham Firouzi-Pouyaei & Parinaz Aghaei-Meibodi
a
Faculty of Technical and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering, Islamic Azad
University, Tehran, I.R. Iran
b
Young Researchers and Elite Club, Islamic Azad University, Tehran, I.R. Iran
Published online: 05 Feb 2014.

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To cite this article: Amirhossein Esfandiari, Elham Firouzi-Pouyaei & Parinaz Aghaei-Meibodi (2014) Effect of enzymatic and
mechanical treatment on combined desizing and bio-polishing of cotton fabrics, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 105:11,
1193-1202

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 The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2014
Vol. 105, No. 11, 1193–1202, http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2014.880222

Effect of enzymatic and mechanical treatment on combined desizing and bio-polishing of

cotton fabrics
Amirhossein Esfandiaria,b*, Elham Firouzi-Pouyaeia and Parinaz Aghaei-Meibodia
a
Faculty of Technical and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering, Islamic Azad University, Tehran, I.R. Iran; bYoung
Researchers and Elite Club, Islamic Azad University, Tehran, I.R. Iran
(Received 27 September 2013; accepted 26 December 2013)

The main objective of this study was to improve the enzymatic effect by mechanical treatment on cotton fabric in
Downloaded by [University of Saskatchewan Library] at 17:57 26 December 2014

combined desizing and bio-polishing. The purpose is to create a commercially and environmentally friendly process for
water and energy saving. The effect of mechanical treatment and different enzyme concentration was studied. Both
mechanical and enzymatic treatment effect were evaluated through measuring weight loss and light measurement of
fabric surface. Fabric surface evaluation also was done via photo micrographing. Fabric hairiness was illustrated on
captured photos of treated and untreated fabric. Finally, optimized data of treatment were obtained.
Keywords: cotton; desizing; enzyme; bio-polishing; weight loss

Introduction protruding surface fibres, and improved colour retention

The enzyme-application technology in textile wet
processing is not a new phenomenon. From the 7000
known enzymes today, only 75 are normally used in
various processes of textile industry (Shamshad, Khatri,
& Tanwari, 2011).
The use of enzymes in the textile industry is an
example of white/industrial biotechnology, which allows
the development of environmentally friendly
technologies in fibre processing and strategies to
improve the final-product quality. The consumption of
energy and raw-materials, as well as increased awareness
of environmental concerns related to the use and
disposal of chemicals into landfills, water or release into
the air during chemical processing of textiles are the
principal reasons for the application of enzymes in
finishing process of textile materials (O’Neill, Araújo,
Casal, Guebitz, & Cavaco-Paulo, 2007).
The continuous popularity of it is due to the reason
that the enzyme technology has already been proven as
environmentally friendly and economical (Shamshad
et al., 2011).
Bio-finishing, also called bio-polishing, is a finishing
process applied to cellulosic textiles that produces
permanent effects by the use of enzymes. Bio-finishing
removes protruding fibres and slubs from fabrics,
significantly reduces pilling, softens fabric hand and
provides a smooth fabric appearance, especially for
knitwear and as a pretreatment for printing. Second-rate
articles can obtain the high-value eye appeal of first-rate
ones by incorporating enzymes into detergents to remove
is achieved after multiple launderings (Hauser &
Schindler, 2004).
Recent advances in bio-finishing of cellulosic fabrics
have led to multiple improvements of surface properties.
The main objective of bio-finishing is to upgrade the
fabric by removing the protruding fibres. The
conventional methods of removing the protruding fibres
employ a burning off process (singeing) or a chemical
treatment. The conventional methods are temporary,
potentially toxic and fibres return to the surface after a
few washings and form fuzz. The fuzz on the surface of
the fabrics constitutes the major reason for customer
dissatisfaction. However, using enzymes in the finishing
process, the protruding fibres can be permanently
removed from the fabric thus eliminating the fuzz. The
enzyme treatment not only keeps the fabric looking new
after repeated washings, but enhances feel, colour,
softness and drape ability which translates into a higher
quality textile or apparel product (Chikkodi, 1996).
The removal of cellulosic fibres to improve pilling
performance, softens hand, and create an abraded
appearance requires not only enzymatic hydrolysis but
also mechanical action to carry away reaction by-
products physically. The final results from the hydrolysis
with respect to appearance and hand are affected just as
much by the mechanical components of the process as
by the chemical components. Therefore, laboratory
evaluations of bio-finished goods can only produce
relative rather than absolute results (Hauser & Schindler,
2004).

*Corresponding author. Email: a.h.esfandiari@gmail.com

© 2014 The World Bank

 1194 A. Esfandiari et al.
For fabrics made from cotton or blends, the warp
threads are coated with an adhesive substance known as
‘size’ to lubricate and protect the yarn from abrasion
preventing the threads to break during weaving. Although
many different compounds have been used to size
fabrics, starch and its derivatives are the most common
because of their excellent film forming capacity,
availability and relatively low cost (Feitkenhauer, Fischer,
& Fah, 2003). After weaving, the sizing agent and
natural non-cellulosic materials present in the cotton must
be removed in order to prepare the fabric for dyeing and
finishing. Before the discovery of amylases, desizing
used to be carried out by treating the fabric with acid,
alkali or oxidizing agents at high temperatures. The
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chemical treatment was not totally effective in removing
the starch, leading to imperfections in dyeing, and also
resulted in a degradation of the cotton fibre – destroying
the natural, soft feel of the cotton. Nowadays, amylases
are commercialized and preferred for desizing due to
their high efficiency and specificity, completely removing
the size without any harmful effects on the fabric
(Cegarra, 1996; Etters & Annis, 1998).
During the processing of cotton fabrics, hydrophobic
components of the outermost layer are eliminated in a
scouring step, which improves their water absorbency,
bleach ability and dye ability (Wang, Fan, Hua, Gao, &
Chen, 2007). Non-cellulosic impurities of the cuticle
and primary walls, such as waxes and pectin, can
be removed by the action of enzymes under mild
reaction conditions (Durden, Etters, Sarkar, Henderson,
& Hill, 2001).
A mature cotton fibre is composed of several
concentric layers and a central area called lumen.
A cuticle, a primary cell wall, intermediary wall as
well as secondary cell wall follow each other from
the outer to the inner part of the fibre. The whole
cotton fibre contains 88–96.5% of cellulose, the
rest are non-cellulosic substances, called incrusts
(Karmakar, 1999).
Pectins, waxes, proteins, minerals and other organic
substances are classified as non-cellulosic substances.
The larger part of these substances is found in the
cuticle and the primary cell wall. During the growth of
the fibres non-cellulosic substances, especially waxes,
protect them against the loss of water, insects and other
outside influences that might damage the fibres.
Furthermore, they also protect them against
mechanical damage that can occur as a result of
processing. Raw cotton fibres have to go through several
chemical processes to obtain properties suitable for use.
With scouring, non-cellulose substances (wax, pectin,
proteins, hemicelluloses, etc.) that surround the fibre
cellulose core are removed, and as a result, fibres become
hydrophilic and suitable for bleaching, dyeing and other
processing (Tavčer, 2011).
Enzymes are biological catalysts that accelerate the
rate of chemical reaction without themselves undergoing
any permanent chemical change. Enzymes have far greater
reaction specificity than chemically catalyzed reactions.
Enzymatic catalysis takes place at atmospheric pressure,
moderate temperature and mild pH conditions, thereby
resulting in a reduction in production costs, improving
quality and functionality of the textile products as well as
increasing the environmental friendliness. Enzymes are
principally classified and named according to the chemical
reaction they catalyze. There are six classes of enzymes
namely: oxidoreductases, transeferases, hydrolyases,
lyases, isomerases and ligases. Cellulases are the most
successful enzymes used in textile wet processing,
especially finishing of cellulose-based textiles, with the
goal of improved hand and appearance. Several attempts
have been made to explore the effect of degree and
sequence of mechanical agitation on the efficiency of
cellulose treatment (Ibrahim, EL-Badry, Eida, & salm,
2011).
Researchers have tried to apply enzymes into every
step of textile wet processing, ranging from pretreatment,
bleaching, dyeing to finishing, and even effluent
treatment. Some applications have become well
established and routine, while some have not yet been
successfully industrialized due to technical or cost
constraints. One major benefit of enzymatic processing
in textiles is its process integration potential. The
conventional processing technology for cellulose
materials include desizing, scouring, bleaching and
dyeing of substrates. These processes consume enormous
amount of energy, water and chemicals. In terms of cost,
this series of processes is clearly more expensive than a
one-step pretreatment (Mojsov, 2012).
Materials
The fabric used was a plain wave 100% cotton raw
fabric with surface density of 200g/m2 with equal weft
and warp count of 29.53 Tex (33 and 23 yarns cm−1 in
the warp and weft direction, respectively) The fabric was
sized with 100% starch sizing agent.
The Amylas enzyme, acetic acid, sodium hydroxide,
EDTA, sodium carbonate and non-ionic agent used were
products of Merck. Rocolas enzyme supplied by
Taiwanian company.
Methods
Part 1: desizing and bio-polishing without mechanical
process
Trials were performed according to the recipe listed in
Table 1 with fabric specimens of 2 g (10 × 10 cm2) at the
liquor ratio 1:20.
 The Journal of The Textile Institute 1195

Table 1. Recipe of combined desizing and bio-polishing.
Without mechanical balls
Amylase: 4 g/L
Rocolase: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 g/L
CH3COOH (10%): 2 cc
NaOH (18%): 0.05 cc
Non-ionic agent: 0.02 cc
EDTA: 0.02 g
Sodium carbonate: 0.04 g
pH: 5_5.5
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With mechanical balls
Amylase: 4 g/L
Rocolase: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 g/L
CH3COOH (10%): 40 cc
NaOH (18%): 1 cc
Non-ionic agent: 0.4 cc
EDTA: 0.4 g
Sodium carbonate: 0.8 g
pH: 5_5.5
mechanical agitation was achieved by adding different
numbers of stainless steel balls (3, 5, 7) with diameter of
13 mm to the bottles. The enzymatic treatments were
carried out for varying lengths of incubation times (45
and 60 min) and at deferent enzyme concentration (2, 4,
6, 8 and 10 g/L) of rocolase enzyme and 4 g/L of
amylase enzyme (Figure 1).
In order to deactivating the enzyme and the end of
the both processes (Parts 1 and 2), the temperature
increased to 80°C for 10 min and 0.04 g of Na2CO3 was
added. The treated fabric samples, after washing, were
dried at 82°C for 10 min.

Characterization

Weight loss of sample was analysed through the

difference between the fabric before and after the
enzymatic treatment. After treatment, fabric was
dried, weighed and then weight loss was
determined as per the Equation (1):

initial weight  final weight

Figure 1. Desizing and bio-polishing process.
Combined desizing and bio-polishing was performed
using different concentration (2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 g/L) of
rocolase enzyme and 4 g/L of amylase enzyme in 60
min.
Part 2: desizing and bio-polishing with mechanical
process
Trials were performed according to the recipe listed in
Table 1 with fabric specimens of 2 g (10 × 10 cm2) at the
liquor ratio 1:200.
All of the enzymatic treatments were carried out in a
Launder o meter machine (42 ± 2 rpm/min). Additional
Wt. loss ð%Þ ¼  100
initial weight
(1)

The reflectance value and whiteness degree were
carried out by Gretag Macbeth Spectrophotometer
Color-Eye 7000A.

The microscopic photos was taken by Jenoptik
Laser, Optic, Labomed USA-LX 4000-Livu 3000-
40 X.

Water absorbency of the fabric were determined
according to the standard method BS 4554 and were
performed in five times. The photos of this
experiment were taken by CCD Nikon L-120 (Made
in Japan).

Figure 2. Wt. loss% of fabrics after enzymatic treatments (Time: 60 min).

 1196 A. Esfandiari et al.
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Figure 3. Wt. loss% of fabrics after enzymatic treatments (Time: 45 min).

Table 2. Effect of enzymatic treatment on whiteness degree.

Whiteness degree
Desizing and bio- Desizing and bio- Desizing and bio- Desizing and bio- Desizing and bio-
Rocolase polishing without polishing with five polishing with three polishing with five polishing with seven
concentration mechanical process stainless steel balls stainless steel balls stainless steel balls stainless steel balls
g/L Time: 60 min Time: 60 min Time: 45 min Time: 45 min Time: 45 min
2 32.50 14.38 15.65 13.17 14.82
4 26.35 14.17 13.27 12.56 9.68
6 31.29 8.75 12.37 12.76 8.58
8 28.56 11.40 12.45 11.45 8.93
10 30.35 8.03 11 10.30 9.36
12 28.71 7.87 10.87 10.01 10.02
Note: Results are given in whiteness degree with 95% confidence interval.

Table 3. Effect of enzymatic treatment on time of drop water absorption.

Time of absorption of drop water (seconds)

Desizing and bio- Desizing and bio- Desizing and bio- Desizing and bio- Desizing and bio-
Rocolase polishing without polishing with five polishing with three polishing with five polishing with seven
concentration mechanical process stainless steel balls stainless steel balls stainless steel balls stainless steel balls
(g L–1) Time: 60 min Time: 60 min Time: 45 min Time: 45 min Time: 45 min
2 3.28 0.69 0.27 0.46 0.22
4 3 0.65 0.26 0.39 0.21
6 2.73 0.49 0.25 0.35 0.19
8 2.69 0.48 0.27 0.31 0.19
10 2.4 0.34 0.23 0.28 0.18
12 2.54 0.27 0.22 0.26 0.21
Note: Results are given in time of absorption with 95% confidence interval.

Result and discussion
Figures 2 and 3 show wt. loss% after enzymatic
treatments for 45 and 60 min.
It has been observed that wt. loss% has significantly
increased after desizing and bio-polishing with stainless
steel balls for 60 min in comparison with desizing and bio-
polishing without stainless steel balls. On the contrary, it is
clear that wt. loss% is more desirable after desizing and bio-
polishing with stainless steel balls for 45 min. Consequently,
the mechanical treatment should be done within 45 min.
After the evaluation of the results, it was observed
that when rocalase enzyme concentration increases, wt.
 The Journal of The Textile Institute 1197
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Figure 4. Water absorption steps, desizing and bio-polishing without mechanical treatment (Rocolas concentration from top to
bottom: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 (g/L)).
 1198 A. Esfandiari et al.

a)

b)
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c)

d)

e)
a) 5 stainless steel balls – Rocolas concentration : 2

b) 5 stainless steel balls – Rocolas concentration : 4

c) 5 stainless steel balls – Rocolas concentration : 10

d) 3 stainless steel balls – Rocolas concentration : 2

e) 3 stainless steel balls – Rocolas concentration : 10

Figure 5. Water absorption steps, desizing and bio-polishing with mechanical treatment.

loss% has also gone up. Increasing the number of
stainless steel balls in mechanical treatment results in
significant increase in wt. loss%.
Mechanical treatment results in more weight loss,
fibre being hydrolyzed and fragile. Furthermore, fabric
surface is ruined. So fabric strength decreases and it is
not economical.
Mechanical treatment affects both hairiness and
desizing by adding stainless steel balls to each bottles.
The mechanical effects in a Launder o meter machine
are of three types (Cavaco-Paulo,1998; Cavaco-Paulo,
Almeida, & Bishop, 1996; Morgado, Cavaco-Paulo, &
Rousselle, 2000) – fibre–fibre interfriction, fibre–metal
interfriction and beating effects – all of which are due to
gravitational forces during the vertical rotation of the
treatment bottles. The beating effects are increased by
small bath ratios and by the presence of balls in the
bottles.
The results obtained here show that the high level of
the beating effects enhanced enzymatic activity.
Starch molecule, used as sized agent, is a
macromolecule. Its molecular weight is more than
1000D.
Fibre–metal interfriction and beating effects makes
physical fragmentation of starch molecules covered in
warp yarn. The smaller the molecules, the easier the wet
treatment will be.
Enzymatic treatment without metal balls caused
hairiness eliminating, reflection improving and significant
whiteness degree increasing (Table 2).
Mechanical treatment makes whiteness degree
decrease. On average, when the number of balls increases,
mechanical agitation on yarn of the fabric surface also
increases and changes the fibre of the yarn cross-section,
so whiteness degree decreases more (Table 2).
 The Journal of The Textile Institute 1199

Table 4. Photomicrograph of cotton surface (40×) effect of mechanical agitation and enzyme concentration.

Rocolase Desizing and Desizing and Desizing and Desizing and Desizing and
concentration Bio polishing Bio polishing Bio polishing Bio polishing Bio polishing
(g/L) without with 5 with 5 with 3 with 7
mechanical stainless steel stainless steel stainless steel stainless steel
process in 60 ballsin 60 min ballsin 45 min ballsin 45 min ballsin 45 min
min

Untreated
cotton fibre

2
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10

12

Figure 6. Desizing and bio-polishing without mechanical treatment in different rocolase concentration (Time: 60 min).
 1200 A. Esfandiari et al.

Figure 7. Desizing and bio-polishing with five stainless steel balls in different rocolase concentration (Time: 60 min).
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Figure 8. Desizing and bio-polishing with five stainless steel balls in different rocolase concentration (Time: 45 min).

Figure 9. Desizing and bio-polishing with three stainless steel balls in different rocolase concentration (Time: 45 min).

By comparing Figures 4 and 5, the effect of

From Table 3, it is obvious that both scouring and
desizing in one bath and removing some impurities
result in water absorption decrease.
Mechanical treatment makes water absorption
decrease to one second.
mechanical treatment in water absorption is obvious.
By comparing photomicrograph of treated and
untreated cotton fabric surface, less hairiness of fabric
surface can be observed after mechanical treatment and
enzyme concentration increase (Table 4).
 The Journal of The Textile Institute
Figure 10. Desizing and bio-polishing with seven stainless steel balls in different rocolase concentration (Time: 45 min).
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Figures 6–10 show upward trend in R% when
enzyme concentration increases, which indicates that
removing hairiness causes developed light reflection of
fabric surface and better whiteness degree. Mechanical
treatment causes decrease in R% by comparing graph a
with b, c, d and e.
Conclusion
According to the results of this study, it has been observed
that combined mechanical action and enzymatic treatment
results in more wt. loss% and more water absorption. It
has been illustrated that mechanical treatment on the yarn
cross-section causes inappropriate effect on reflection.
Whiteness degree decreases because of the stainless steel
balls beating effects during the process. Therefore, fabric
which has been finishing by mechanical treatment should
not be suitable for a luxury consumption because the
appearance is not excellent and glittery. Mechanical-
enzymatic treatment conditions should be in a way that
enzymatic hydrolysis and mechanical friction results in
desirable effect in bio-polishing.
Fabric hairiness decrease is obvious in comparison
with the sheer bio-polished fabric according to the taken
photomicrographs of the fabric surface.
It seems that the optimum treatment condition is
found to be rocolase concentration (2–6 g L−1), number
of stainless steel balls five and time 45 min.
The process results of 2 and 6 g L−1 are sensibly
similar to each other, but 2 g L−1 is more commercial.
Acknowledgements
The author wish to thanks Mr Milad Nazari for his continuous
effort on taking pictures and also Miss Saeedeh Hemmati for
her valuable editing and guidance.
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