Hand Taps and Proper Threading Techniques

Internal threading is done by using a tool called a TAP in a hole drilled to a specific diameter
for the thread size and pitch you want to cut. External threads, such as for bolts and studs, are
made by using a tool called a DIE, which is applied to a specific diameter of rod for the size
and pitch of the threads you want to cut.
Both taps and dies can be used to either

cut new threads or repair damaged

threads.
Taps and dies come in various
configurations and materials, the most
common being High Speed Steel (HSS)
for softer materials and Cobalt for hard
materials like stainless steel. Some
manufacturers apply platings or coatings
designed to increase the cutting ability
and life of their products, beneath that, it is usually one of the two materials for most
applications.
The threads found on most mass produced externally threaded products such as bolts, studs
and screws, are formed by a process known as thread rolling. A headed, but unthreaded blank
is squeezed between two opposing dies, much the same way you would roll a twig between
the palms of your hands.
This rolling action displaces the metal of the blank, forming threads. Machine produced
threads are what is referred to as a Class 2A fit and has considerable variation in tolerance
compared to a cut thread.
Threads produced using taps and dies, whether by hand or machine, are what is referred to as
cut threads. Cut threads are generally of better quality and closer tolerance which is why a die
nut run on the threads of a brand new fastener might still remove some material, and/or
plating.
Hand taps come in three basic configurations -Taper, Plug and Bottoming.
TAPER taps have the first 7 – 10 threads at the tip ground flatter than the main body of the
tap to enable easy starting of the threads in the hole. Sometimes called a starter tap, taper taps
can be be used to start the thread in a blind hole for another tap to finish or used to cut threads
all the way on a through hole.
PLUG taps are like taper taps in that they have tapered
threads at the starting end of the tap, the difference is
there are fewer of them, usually the first 3-5 threads, so

you get to cutting a full thread sooner. Although not as

easy to start as a taper tap, they can be used to start a
thread. If you can only buy one type of tap, and you’re a
patient user, plug taps can be a good choice because
they are still easy to start, but they can also form
complete threads deeper into a blind hole than a taper
tap.
BOTTOMING taps have no ground threads at the starting
end and are generally used after, and in conjunction with
a taper or plug tap. Bottom taps can cut threads to the
bottom of blind holes although they do not do well at starting threads.

Threading Dies
Hand threading dies are generally of two types. ROUND dies

are designed to fit in a T-handle while HEX DIE NUTS can be

used with regular hand tools. (Wrenches and sockets.) Round
dies are usually the choice for cutting new threads whereas
hex die nuts are commonly used as a chaser to repair existing
threads. Round dies also require a holder/handle to use them,whereas hex die nuts do not.
In order for taps and dies to cut, they must be harder than the materials they are cutting. This
additional hardness also makes them brittle, meaning, they can be easily broken, something
you want to avoid at all costs. It is always preferable to use a proper T-handle for taps rather
than a wrench or locking pliers.
The latter two work, in a pinch, but you must be careful because turning the tap from one side
only can put asymmetrical stress on the tap, causing it to go off center, or break. Using a T-
Handle keeps the force applied over the center of the tap or die, maintaining proper symmetry.