11.

Laboratory testing
When is testing needed?
·         Requested by customer
·         New Fabric - all new fabrics must be submitted for a full fabric test at development stage and at bulk shipment
stage.
·         New Supplier - when using a new supplier or fabric mill, all fabrics must be tested until they have proven
that their standards are consistent and acceptable.
 
·         Repeat fabric (i.e. frequently used fabric) - in a new color.
When is testing not needed?
·         Repeat Fabric (i.e. frequently used fabric) - in the same color as run before and with the same supplier / fabric
mill. (even with this fabric, spot checks must be made approximately every 4 shipments)
Mandatory test
·         The merchandisers need to make sure the fabrics and garments are tested before cutting, according to the
requirements of the customer. Any failed results or concerns need to be discussed with QA and QC immediately.
 
Minimum performance requirements
All fabrics & garments must adhere to certain minimum performance requirements. For most buyers
these requirements are dictated by their testing requirements. For those customers who do not require
testing, the minimum performance standards should be enforced.
Minimum Performance Requirements
 
 
 
Test Description Test Method Minimum Performance Requirements
Dimensional stability to Laundering AATCC 135/150 Woven fabrics: +/- 3% max. Knitted fabrics: +/- 5%
max.

Dimensional stability to Dry Cleaning AATCC 158 Woven fabrics: +/- 3% max. Knitted fabrics: +/- 3%
max.

Appearance Rating Visual/AATCC 179 Satisfactory, including no shape distortion, no cross

Method 2 staining and skewing 3% max for woven and 5%
max for knits.

Color fastness to Laundering AATCC 61 Color change: 4,  Color staining: 3,

Self staining: 4.5

Color fastness to Crocking AATCC 8 Dry: 4, Wet: 3

Color fastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color change: 4, Color staining: 3

Color fastness to Water AATCC 107 Color change: 4, Color staining: 3

Color fastness to Light AATCC 16 20 hour test: 3.5

Tensile strength ASTM D5034 Blouse: 25 lbs Shirt/dress/skirt/pyjamas/lining: 30

lbs Outerwear: 37 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall/pocketing: 50 lbs

Seam slippage ASTM D434 Blouse/shirt/dress/skirt:  15 lbs Pyjamas/lining: 18

lbs Outerwear/pocketing:  22 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall:  25 lbs

Seam strength ASTM D1683 Blouse/shirt/dress/skirt:  22 lbs Pyjamas/lining: 25

lbs Outerwear/pocketing:  30 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall:  37 lbs

Tear strength ASTM 1424 Blouse: 1.5 lbs Pyjamas/lining: 1.8 lbs
Shirt/dress/skirt/outerwear: 2.0 lbs
Trousers/shorts/overall/pocketing: 2.5 lbs

Bursting strength ASTM D3786 Fabric: 40 lbs /sq. inch, Seam: 35 lbs /sq. inch,
 Pilling resistance ASTM 3512 3.5
– 30 minutes
Fiber content AATCC 20/20A +/- 3% tolerance for blends; No tolerance for single
fiber

Fabric weight (g/m2) ASTM D3776 +/- 5% of specification

Formaldehyde content JIS L 1041 Garments with contact to skin < 75 ppm
Other garments < 300 ppm
Lead content (scrapable surfaces only; 16 CFR 1500.3 < 600 ppm
children only)

Azoic Dyes   Zero tolerance

 
11.2 Responsibility of QC for laboratory testing
QC manager must be informed of any failed test so appropriate measures can be taken before cutting of fabric.
All options need to be reviewed on a case-by-case basis. It is important the issues can be discussed openly
between QC, QA and MR before cutting, so something can be done.
Be proactive
In many cases, the fabric can still be rectified by the mill and in other cases we can alter the garment to limit the
problem. For example,
•             Seam slippage: an overlock stitch can be added or the seam construction can be changed to make it
stronger
•             Colour fastness to rubbing or Colour staining after washing: the fabric can be washed again in the mill or,
if already cut, an additional warning label can be added to state “wash separately”. If the garment has contrast
parts, we can consider deleting or changing them.
•             Dimensional stability: The fabric can be reset or the pattern can be adjusted to approach the maximum
tolerance. If this is not possible, we can re-test in garment form, which often shows less shrinkage.
Internal testing report sharing
All QC files must contain a copy of the testing report, if testing is required for this customer. The QC should not
accept files without it and hold production until they have it.
 
12. Fabric inspection
All incoming fabric including main fabric and trim fabric must be temporarily quarantined to prevent their use
before any required inspection and testing is carried out. Testing and inspection must be carried out to the
customer requirements.
All factories need to complete the fabric inspection before cutting. No bulk production can begin until the factory
merchandiser / QC manager has signed off the completed bulk fabric card and obtain NN Fashion approval.
12.1        4-point system fabric inspection
The 4-point system is applied to allow the factory technical staff to make correct decisions and judgments
regarding the quality of fabric and trim fabric. The factory QC manager and fabric inspector are required to
implement this procedure in their factories.
 
 
Procedure
·         Select samples randomly according to the sample plans.
·         Four points system are to be used to define each sample which are acceptable or not.
·         Check the fabric quality characteristics against the fabric standard and product specification.
·         Fabric construction
·         Color
·         Fabric width
·         Hand feel and finishing
·         Packing – fabric tickets, lot number, poly-bag and packing condition.
Visual inspection for fabric defects
·         Load the fabric on the inspection machine with viewing angle, 45° or 90°
·         Machine speed should be below twenty meter per minute.
·         The viewing distance is one meter and enough lighting is necessary.
·         Cut one meter of fabric on beginning and end of roll for checking shade and reference.
·         Count defects by 4 – point system to determine the roll of fabric to be accepted or to be rejected.
·         Defects found on fabric must be classified correctly. If the defect is hard to be identified, the inspector should
bring the defects (about one meter) to the QA manager.
·         The major and minor defects should be noted down by point on piece goods inspection report.
·         After inspection, the defects of fabric should be shown to the vendor.
Pass or fail
The rolls of fabric pass if the total defective units do not exceed 40 points per 100 square yards.
 If the amount exceeds the allowable amount, the inspector should advice the vendor. A 100% inspection is
required to sort the defective and put the quality level right before shipment. In this case, re-inspection is needed.
Fail if the penalty of defects exceeds 40 points per 100 square yards
The pass grade of the fabric lot is 40 points per 100 square yards. This is calculated by the following formulas:
Woven:  total points x 36 x 100  =              points/ 100 sq.yds sample yardage (yards) x width (inches)
Knit: total points x 100 x fabric weight (g/m²) =   points/ 100 sq.yds Sample weight (lbs) x 543
·         A thorough inspection should be done on every unit.
·         Don’t assume the lot is good or bad after inspecting only a few units. The whole sample size must be thoroughly
inspected before making a conclusion.
 
Responsibility
·         The factories are responsible for the implementation and maintenance of this procedure.
·         NN Fashion technical staff is responsible to train the factories and monitor the correct implementation.
·         Factory merchandisers should keep the fabric inspection report in the style files.
·         Factory should maintain 12 months record that is available to NN Fashion technical staff upon request.
Procedure
·         Check according to normal sampling plan.
·         If the 1st inspection failed. Go for 2nd inspection by the ‘tightened standard” sampling plan.
·         If batch is passed, mark each roll in the batch with GREEN tape.
·         Actual rolls checked should be stamped with “PASS”.
·         If the batch is rejected after 1st and 2nd inspections, 100% check to be carried out.
·         From 100% check, mark each approved roll with GREEN tape and stamp with “PASS”.
·         Rejected rolls must be marked with RED  tape and stored in “REJECT” area.
·         Any questionable roll must be marked with YELLOW tape, and placed in “REJECT” area waiting customer
decision.
·         From the fabric inspection records, monitor the performance of each fabric supplier.
12.3 Fabric quality standard
Key fault areas
Any roll found with following defects shall be rejected.
·         Piece length less than 39 yards.
·         Poor shade continuity throughout the entire roll.
·         Exhibits a noticeable degree of shading from side to side, side to centre or side to end.
·         Usable width is less than the minimum usable width stated on the purchase agreement.
·         Exhibits a noticeable degree of slubs and naps.
·         Exhibits a noticeable degree of waviness along either or both fabric edges.
·         Exhibits more than 1½ inches of bow or bias on 45 inches width.
·         Running defect through more than 5 continuous yards.
·         Out of shade range.
·         Dye unevenness.
·         Shrinkage out of tolerance
·         Deviate more than 1 % from the length on the piece thicket.
·         Weight not as specification.
·         Roll exceeds 15 inches in diameter and / or 80 lbs in gross weight.
·         Length of spliced piece less than 30 yards
On site crocking test
By AATCC crock meter method
Minimum acceptable standard
Dry crocking test              rate 4 on the grey sale for staining
Wet crocking test             rate 3 on the grey sale for staining
Packing inspection
·         Rolls shall be tube onto a tube with necessary strength to insure it reaches our destination in good condition.
·         Inside diameter of tube not less than 1 ½ inches.
·         Tube shall not protrude more than 1/2 on either end of roll.
·         The cover end of each roll shall be taped down to prevent unrolling during shipment and storage.
·         Rolls shall be wrapped or enclosed in double plastic wrapping or bags they must be evenly rolled with enough
tension to prevent telescoping during subsequent handling.
·         Each roll shall be enclosed in between double plastic wrapping with shipping mark.
·         Each roll shall be attached with a roll ticket with necessary information.