Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 4

a first look at our editors’ most exciting new wines

Insider
Vol. 7, No. 11 | March 16, 2011

Marvin R. Shanken Editor and Publisher


A Members-Only, Weekly Publication

Burgundy is the theme of this week’s Insider, with 39 new releases of both reds and
whites. Chardonnays from famed grand cru vineyard Corton-Charlemagne and Pinot Noirs from
grand cru Clos de Vougeot and around the commune of Volnay, all tasted by Bruce Sanderson, lead
this week’s selections.
Heavyweights like Louis Jadot, Louis Latour and Joseph Drouhin all appear, but boutique Domaine
Bernard & Thierry Glantenay places two single-vineyard reds among the Hot Wines, on page 4.

FRANCE
Burgundy
Marquis d’Angerville Domaine Bernard & Thierry
Volnay Clos des Ducs 2008 Glantenay
92 points | $120 | 110 cases imported | Red Volnay Les Brouillards 2008
Young and unevolved, showing a core of pure cherry, raspberry 92 points | $57 | 15 cases imported | Red
and mineral notes buoyed by a lively structure. The tannins are An alluring cherry-scented red, this offers both richness and
there, yet they’re ripe, and the finish goes on and on, with a spicy bright cherry, strawberry and rose flavors. Fresh and beautifully
aftertaste. Best from 2013 through 2024.—B.S. balanced, with a lingering, berry- and mineral-filled finish. Best
from 2012 through 2023.—B.S.
Bonneau du Martray
Corton-Charlemagne 2008 Louis Jadot
92 points | $125 | 3,000 cases made | White Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2007
Offering a nice mix of citrus and mineral, with a hint of oak, this is 92 points | $103 | 25 cases imported | White
subtle and nuanced, with white peach, lemon and floral flavors. A Delicious and ready to enjoy, this white is full of toast, butter-
luminous white. Best from 2013 through 2027.—B.S. scotch, apple pie and sweet baking spices. Rich and creamy, with
a fresh buttered pastry, lime and mineral aftertaste. Drink now
Domaine Bernard & Thierry through 2018.—B.S.
Glantenay
Volnay Clos des Chênes 2008 Louis Latour
92 points | $70 | 20 cases imported | Red Corton-Charlemagne 2008
There’s density to this, but also a burst of cherry and strawberry 92 points | $100 | 3,500 cases made | White
flavors. Verges on racy in structure, with a firm, tight finish involv- An opulent style, boasting honey, peach, citrus, vanilla and pastry
ing some spicy oak and savory mineral elements. Needs time. aromas and flavors. Very smooth and almost viscous in texture,
Best from 2013 through 2024.—B.S. yet stays fresh and long on the finish, with an attractive toasty
aftertaste. Drink now through 2027.—B.S.

Wine Spectator Insider March 16, 2011 1 To subscribe, visit www.winespectator.com


Denis Mortet Marquis d’Angerville
Clos de Vougeot 2007 Volnay Fremiet 2008
92 points | $342 | 5 cases imported | Red 91 points | $70 | 60 cases imported | Red
Licorice and spice notes mark this burly red, which is more about An enticing red, offering sweet cherry, strawberry, floral and
muscle and spice than finesse, yet shows intensity, balance and mineral notes. Intense yet smooth, with balance, if showing a bit
length. There’s texture and potential. Best from 2013 through of heat today. There’s fine length, so give this time. Best from 2013
2027.—B.S. through 2024.—B.S.

Manuel Olivier Marquis d’Angerville


Clos de Vougeot 2008 Volnay Taillepieds 2008
92 points | $99 | 41 cases made | Red 91 points | $90 | 100 cases imported | Red
This solid red is concentrated, exhibiting a mix of red and black The cherry, raspberry and mineral flavors are precise and persis-
cherry, backed by both lively acidity and dusty tannins. A bit tent, courtesy of the firm structure and refined tannins. Everything
square in the end, with a compact finish, but also plenty of fruit. is there, but this is taut and needs time to relax. Best from 2013
Best from 2014 through 2028.—B.S. through 2024.—B.S.

Domaine Perrot-Minot Simon Bize & Fils


Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes Vieilles Vignes 2007 Corton-Charlemagne 2007
92 points | $188 | 5 cases imported | Red 91 points | $140 | 100 cases made | White
This enticing red leads off with floral and sandalwood aromas, A firm, stony white, packed with aromas and flavors of lime, citro-
building with cherry, strawberry and mineral notes as it develops nella and rain on hot, wet limestone. Racy in structure, this stays
on the palate. Shows terrific harmony, with a lingering spicy after- defined and lingers long on the finish. Best from 2012 through
taste. Best from 2012 through 2023.—B.S. 2025.—B.S.

Jacques Prieur Simon Bize & Fils


Clos Vougeot 2008 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Grands Liards 2007
92 points | $203 | 15 cases imported | Red 91 points | $45 | 750 cases made | Red
A red full of macerated cherry, vanilla, sweet spices and mineral, A delicious red, harmonious and supple, with floral, spice, straw-
this is both stylish and powerful. Still a bit rigid, but well-propor- berry and cherry aromas and flavors. There’s a firm underlying
tioned, with grip on the finish. Just a bit rustic in the end. Best structure that keeps it all focused, with a long mineral aftertaste.
from 2014 through 2030.—B.S. Best from 2013 through 2021.—B.S.

Jacques Prieur Simon Bize & Fils


Volnay Clos des Santenots 2008 Savigny-lès-Beaune White Aux Vergelesses 2007
92 points | $130 | 10 cases imported | Red 91 points | $42 | 125 cases made | White
A powerhouse, yet with refined, complex flavors of violet, rasp- This well-defined white offers a lemon candy note, with a whiff of
berry and cherry and a silky texture. This actually turns more clove and an underlying mineral element. Builds nicely on the pal-
ethereal and elegant as it builds to a long, smoky finish. Best from ate to a long, mineral- and toast-infused aftertaste. Best from 2012
2012 through 2023.—B.S. through 2020.—B.S.

Marquis d’Angerville Chanson Père & Fils


Volnay Caillerets 2008 Beaune Champimonts Domaine 2008
91 points | $90 | 30 cases imported | Red 91 points | $70 | 325 cases made | Red
Round in style, displaying cherry, pomegranate and sweet spice Lean and elegant, with a compact vein of strawberry, cherry and
notes from oak. Delicate in flavor, with ample weight and intensity spice flavors. It’s all in the right proportions, with a lingering finish
to carry it to a long conclusion. Best from 2013 through 2022.—B.S. of mineral and licorice. Very detailed and refined. Best from 2013
through 2023.—B.S.
Marquis d’Angerville
Volnay Clos des Angles 2008 Chanson Père & Fils
91 points | $80 | 35 cases imported | Red Beaune Teurons Domaine 2008
Concentrated, this red delivers cherry, wild berry and spice fla- 91 points | $60 | 666 cases made | Red
vors. There’s some heat in the mix, along with a firm finish and a Beautifully proportioned, offering strawberry, cherry, flowers and
mineral aftertaste. This is a wild version that needs time to settle mineral aromas and flavors. It’s very harmonious and vibrant,
down. Best from 2013 through 2022.—B.S. tightening on the finish. Cherry and mineral accents linger. Best
from 2012 through 2020.—B.S.

Wine Spectator Insider March 16, 2011 2 To subscribe, visit www.winespectator.com


Chanson Père & Fils Simon Bize & Fils
Corton White Vergennes Domaine des Héritiers Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Guettes 2007
P.Chanson 2008 90 points | $46 | 150 cases made | Red
91 points | $150 | 125 cases made | White Both earthy and rich, this red wraps its fleshy texture around a
Rich, round and well-marked by tasty oak, this white offers ample core of black cherry, licorice and spice flavors. Tightly wound in
volume and flesh to cover its firm structure. Peach and citrus the end, but long, with a mineral finish. Best from 2013 through
notes abound, while oak spice plays a bigger role than mineral for 2022.—B.S.
now. Best from 2014 through 2025.—B.S.
Simon Bize & Fils
Alex Gambal Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Vergelesses 2007
Corton-Charlemagne 2008 90 points | $48 | 750 cases made | Red
91 points | $125 | 100 cases made | White This is floral, spicy and concentrated, with rose, cherry and veg-
Bordering on tropical fruit, with peach, apricot, citrus and also etal flavors. Balanced and elegant, lending a burst of mineral on
toast and mineral aromas and flavors. Picks up oak spice and the finish. Best from 2013 through 2021.—B.S.
mineral, settling in nicely by the lingering finish. Best from 2014
through 2027.—B.S. Simon Bize & Fils
Savigny-lès-Beaune White 2007
Jacques Prieur 90 points | $26 | 1,000 cases made | White
Beaune Grèves 2008 A rich white, with a layer of mineral adding complexity to the lem-
91 points | $82 | 15 cases imported | Red on and apple tart notes. Vibrant and long, with a mouthwatering
Candied cherry and oak spice flavors are matched to a firm, finish and a butterscotch aftertaste. Drink now through 2014.—B.S.
linear structure in this red. It picks up a mineral vein that persists
through the finish. Turns purer with air. Best from 2013 through Joseph Drouhin
2022.—B.S. Beaune Clos des Mouches 2008
90 points | $89 | 500 cases imported | Red
Jacques Prieur Needs some aeration to unwind, picking up steam with juicy
Volnay-Santenots 2008 cherry and berry flavors all matched to a vibrant, elegant frame.
91 points | $110 | 10 cases imported | Red Fine ripeness and saturation on the lingering finish. Best from
Starts out with plenty of spice-clove, nutmeg and cardamom-with 2013 through 2024.—B.S.
an underlying base of black cherry and earth. Shows some power
and weight, with a dose of mineral on the lingering finish. Best Louis Latour
from 2013 through 2024.—B.S. Beaune Perrières 2008
90 points | $60 | 250 cases made | Red
Jean-Marc Vincent Oak spice offsets the juicy raspberry note in this vibrant red. Just
Santenay Le Beaurepaire 2008 a touch dry on the finish, but the fruit and elegant profile is com-
91 points | $46 | 15 cases imported | Red pelling. Nice fruity aftertaste. Best from 2012 through 2010.—B.S.
This supple red is highlighted with floral and spice aromas and
flavors. Harmonious and intense, with bright acidity and a long, Meo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs
mineral- and spice-filled aftertaste. Enjoyable now. Drink now Fixin Clos du Chapitre 2008
through 2020.—B.S. 90 points | $71 | 5 cases imported | Red
Dark and meaty, this concentrated red offers black cherry and
Marquis d’Angerville blackberry aromas and flavors. Dense and a bit rustic, with iron
Volnay Champans 2008 and earth tones, finishing long. Best from 2012 through 2018.—B.S.
90 points | $90 | 110 cases imported | Red
The sweet oak dominates the delicate berry fruit in this red now, Perrot-Minot
making the wine slightly angular and awkward. It’s elegant and Chambolle-Musigny Les Echanges Vieilles Vignes 2007
silky, however, so give it some time to integrate. Shows nice 90 points | $195 | 50 cases imported | Red
length. Best from 2013 through 2023.—B.S. A seductive red, silky and elegant, offering cherry, raspberry and
mineral flavors. Harmonious and approachable now, with a linger-
Albert Bichot ing touch of spice on the finish. Drink now through 2018.—B.S.
Beaune Clos de l’Ermitage 2008
90 points | $32 | 100 cases imported | Red
Full of juicy cherry, raspberry and spice flavors, this red is enjoy-
able now and should develop nicely over the medium term. Fine
balance and length. Drink now through 2016.—B.S.

Wine Spectator Insider March 16, 2011 3 To subscribe, visit www.winespectator.com


HOT WINES
These are the most exciting discoveries from our editors’ most recent tastings, pub-
lished exclusively in Wine Spectator Insider. They are high-scoring, low-production
wines from around the world that may be difficult to find, but are worth seeking out.

Domaine Bernard & Thierry Antonin Guyon


Glantenay Corton-Charlemagne 2008
Volnay Les Caillerets 2008 93 points | $160 | 60 cases imported | White
94 points | $72 | 10 cases imported | Red Citrus blossom and lemon cake aromas are augmented by apple
So clean and pure, this is both incisive and ethereal, boasting and stone flavors as this intense white remains persistent and
strawberry, raspberry, floral and mineral aromas and flavors. Preci- harmonious. There’s a hint of smoke and a creamy, lemony finish.
sion, balance and an endless, haunting floral, berry and mineral Best from 2013 through 2025. From France.—B.S.
aftertaste complete the picture. Best from 2013 through 2025.
From France.—B.S. Maison Jessiaume
Corton-Charlemagne 2008
Albert Bichot 93 points | $80 | 50 cases made | White
Corton-Charlemagne Domaine du Pavillon 2008 A rich, smoky white, this nonetheless has a laserlike structure driv-
93 points | $110 | 30 cases imported | White ing its lemon, apple, pineapple and chalk aromas and flavors. Taut
Intensely mineral, with lime blossom, chalk and apple flavors and linear, with an aftertaste of saline and mineral. Best from 2014
swirling around the stony core. Lean but well-muscled, with through 2030. From France.—B.S.
plenty of ripeness and beautiful harmony. The lingering, tensile
finish offers citrus and mineral. Best from 2014 through 2030.
From France.—B.S.

Domaine Bernard & Thierry


Glantenay
Volnay Les Santenots 2008
93 points | $67 | 15 cases imported | Red
A high-toned, floral style, evoking rose, strawberry and raspberry
aromas and flavors. There’s just a hint of oak disrupting the har-
mony today, but this is long and mineral-infused on the finish, so
be patient. Best from 2013 through 2024. From France.—B.S.

WINE SPECTATOR’S TASTERS


The Most Experienced Team of Wine Journalists in the World
Wine Spectator’s tasting staff includes 12 people in two offices. Thomas Matthews Executive editor, New York
They work together to review more than 18,000 wines each Joined Wine Spectator in 1988. Tasting beat: New York, Spain
year, more than any other publication. Together, our six senior
tasters count more than 140 years of tasting experience. James Molesworth Senior editor, New York
 We always taste wine blind in our offices in Napa and New Joined Wine Spectator in 1997. Tasting beat: Argentina, Bordeaux,
York. This is your guarantee that our reviews are fair and objec- Chile, Finger Lakes, Loire Valley, Rhône Valley, South Africa
tive, and that a wine’s reputation or price does not influence its
Bruce Sanderson Tasting director, New York
score. Each editor specializes in the wines of specific regions;
Joined Wine Spectator in 1993. Tasting beat: Burgundy,
their initials identify the taster of each wine reviewed. We score
Champagne, Germany, Italy
wines using the 100-point scale, explained below.
Harvey Steiman Editor at large, San Francisco
James Laube Senior editor, Napa Joined Wine Spectator in 1983. Tasting beat:
Joined Wine Spectator in 1983. Tasting beat: Australia, Oregon, Washington
California Wine Spectator’s 100-Point Scale
95–100 Classic Tasting staff:
Kim Marcus Managing editor, New York 90–94 Outstanding Tim Fish (California)
Joined Wine Spectator in 1988. Tasting beat: 85–89 Very good Alison Napjus (Alsace, Italy)
Austria, Greece, Port, Portugal, Southern France 80–84 Good
Nathan Wesley (Italy)
75–79 Mediocre
MaryAnn Worobiec (California, New Zealand)
50–74 Not recommended

Wine Spectator Insider March 16, 2011 4 To subscribe, visit www.winespectator.com

You might also like