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ECHO
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ECHO is a quaterly, 134 page print magazine that collects ideas from all
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ECHO ISSUE ONE |2020
EDITOR’S LETTER
Diya Ahuja
Dear Readers,
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ECHO
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+919891088522
media@shadesofindia.com
Editor
Diya Ahuja
Creative Direction
Lori Pathak, Jessica Arora
Publication Design
Diya Ahuja, Rashi Goel
Contributing Writers
Diya Ahuja, Rashi Goel, Lori Pathak,
Jessica Arora, Sanaya Dutt
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Diya Ahuja, Rashi Goel, Lori Pathak,
Jessica Arora, Sanaya Dutt
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Contributors
I S S U E
F I R S T
Jessica Arora
T H E
Rashi Goel
Rashi Goel has a keen Jessica is a blend of
interest in graphics and art creative and business
/
out there.
Sanaya Dutt
Diya Ahuja
Lori Pathak
Diya Ahuja has a keen
Lori is a diligent girl with With a keen eye for
interest in Graphic
a creative flair, and colour palletes, Sanaya
Design and Art Direction
interested in creating Dutt is all about styling, art
in fashion. Her work is
Graphics in Fashion. and creative direction. A
usually minimalistic and
She wants to explore model and entrepreneur,
therefore she’s learning
the various aspects the her new mission has
and exploring different
subject has to offer and is made her explore the
forms to expand her style.
up for any challenges. world of slow fashion and
sustainable living.
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Customer Care
Mon-Sat: 10:00 am - 6:00 pm
info@bodice.co.in
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23 88
CULTURE
ECHO Jam Confining Nuptials
26 94
Plants in Indoor Spaces Freedom Fabric makes a
comeback
29
Dying Art of Crochet 100
Disconnection
CONTENTS
30
The Kitchen Salon 104
IndiGenius Labels: The
New Game
23 86
32 110
34
E-Commerce, Only Esscape
40
Sustainable Swimwear 112
A Lover’s Discourse
46
Alternate Canvas 114
FASHION
Isolation
LIVING
50
Crafty Business 116
Unfiltered: A Journey
56
Masks: Utility or Fashion?
122
Pessimism and Optimism
62
Old Memories, New Keepers
126
Loungewear: New
68 Workwear
Death of the Party Dress
72
Virtual Models: Boon or Bane
Scan to Jam!
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Jaipur
Customer Care
Mon-Fri: 11:00 am to 7:00 pm
0141-402398
shop@kichu.co.in
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ISSUE ONE |2020
Jessica Arora
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ECHO ISSUE ONE |2020
Benefits of Houseplants
By Jessica Arora
1.Releasing Water:
Plants like: Mother-in-law’s tongue, Rubber
plant, Spider plant and many more.
(Available on: amazon.in)
2.Purifying Air
Some of the air purifying plants are: Areca
palms, Weeping Fig, ZZ Plant and many more.
Available on: FernsandPetals.com
3.Improving Health
zz Plant-
Plants which are very known to improve health
Anselandivy.com
are Money plant, English Ivy, Boston Fern and
Golden Ferns and many more.
Available on: ugaoo.com
Peace Lily -
Getspruceup.com
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ECHO ISSUE ONE |2020
1.Lemon-Banana-Purple Tea
Using purple tea as a DIY face mask is just one of
the many things you can do to take advantage
of everything it can do for the skin. Purple tea
works wonders and so does this recipe.
Customer Care
Lori Pathak
+917700907447
info@mishodesigns.com
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FASHION
34
E Commerce, Only Esscape
40
Sustainable Swimwear
46
Alternate Canvas
50
Crafty Business
56
Masks: Utility or Fashion?
62
Old Memories, New Keepers
By Jessica Arora
Add a hint of classic luxury with these beautiful pair of earrings.
We live in a time where innovation has is rapidly transforming from brick and
entered each section of civilization, mortar stores to online retail stores. Given
from everyday living, governance the way that we shop is changing, it has
and health care services to the retail never been more important for retailers
business, the web has become a to get online. Although no business has
centre mechanism for the movement been unscathed by the pandemic,
and exchange of information between those that are suffering the most are
individuals, groups, and organizations. smaller startups that may not have the
capital or reserves to stay afloat and
E-commerce has become the fastest companies that relied heavily on face-
growing trend, where traditional retailing to-face interactions, like hair and
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ECHO ISSUE ONE |2020
nail salons, small fashion labels and small Shivan Aggarwal, Creative Director and
jewellery stores. Founder of ANI clothing, Delhi, a brand
that specializes in ready-to-wear, which
As local and state governments issue shelter- was launched during lockdown said, “The
in-place orders, asking residents to remain transition and dependency of the world of
home for all but essential errands, businesses technology made every industry realize the
— especially small local businesses all over utter importance of the same!
India are facing difficult decisions. Japneet
Sarla, an associate in Sarla Creations, Delhi, With very less brands, providing a suitable
a brand which specializes in luxury women’s fast fashion production along with partially
attires exclaimed, “The online process has being sustainable, I decided to launch
been working on an average speed. There a ready to wear women’s brand during
are various reasons. One being that when covid.” She further explained that The main
you start the business on any social media purpose of launching this during a lean time
platform, it is not audience generic at the in the industry was to take advantage of
first place. So we get inquiries from people people checking their phones and digital
who expect cheaper rates and prices market the brand intensively. There’s no
whereas we deal in luxury clothing.” better time as people are on their phones
24/7 during lockdown, for her every
Japneet further explains that it was not easy Instagram hashtag, line, picture matters.
to target the audience base they required. ANI Clothing is not a luxury brand, people
Whereas they have benefited in terms of preferred
their existing clients who weren’t able to buying casual clothes during the lockdown
visit the store, but the clients are ordering too, which is why they were able to
more comparatively, because the world’s survived!. As for her it was a cherry on top
going digital and they are allured by their that they constantly ran promotions and
posts and newly created online presence. incentives for them to not decrease
their purchases.
Quoting The Economic Times, in an article
published on Apr 25, 2020, titled “Survival Aavriti Jain, The brainchild of Dhora India, A
strategies for businesses during COVID-19 brand which offers a unique signature style
lockdown” where writer Roma Priya that is bold, contemporary and inspired
explains, “It has become challenging for by the province of Rajasthan, India said, “I
most businesses to keep their financial suppose we are still in that phase of surviving
Photographed by: Jessica Arora wheels turning during the lockdown period through this pandemic as an industry and
Product Styling by: Jessica Arora due to less revenue churn and the as a country. This slowing down has made
general uncertainty in the global financial us rethink and pause on several issues.” She
environment.” added that she only wishes to become
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Swimming in Sustainability
By Sanaya Dutt
of how bad the current process of making forms of life present underwater.
swimwear is for the environment”.
The industry and its geniuses have been
The use of polyblend fabrics like spandex quick to respond to this threat. One such
and other synthetic materials pose a huge genius brand includes PA.ANI. PA.ANI is
risk to our environment, especially our an Indian brand dedicated to creating
water lands. These fabrics shed 11 times 100% sustainable swimwear. “We at PA.ANI
more micro fibre than cotton-based blends realized that fashion is not only the cause
after every wash. Micro fibres are extremely of pollution, it can also be its solution. All our
small fibrous particles of fabric that ween swimwear apparel is made by recycling
away from the fabric weave after every old and out of use nets used for fishing.”
wash.
Using a chemical process to break down
They are small enough to pass through the net fibre and reconstruct it into fabric,
meshes and sieves and usually escape into PA.ANI recycles almost 15O kgs of waste
our environment through the water that is net per swimsuit. “It is our mission to be
thrown out after it has been used to create ethical, eco-friendly and sustainable. “With
the garment. Once out in the water, these its minimal and clean aesthetic, PA.ANI is a
micro fibres put the existing marine life perfect example of a brand taking control
into grave danger. A recent study found of its narrative by changing the way fashion
tangled masses of micro fibres inside the is perceived in the world.
abdominal tracks of fish, turtles and other
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ALTERNATE
CANVAS
- Diya Ahuja
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Crafty Business
The Struggle of small businesses and their efforts to keep their business and
their ‘extended family’ keep going during this pandemic.
By Lori Pathak
The pandemic has hustled a large home, while others had nothing on their
population’s lives and affected plate. This industry, which employs a
the fashion industry to its core. The massive number of artisans, tailors, and
‘kaarigars’ of the fashion industry and embroiderers, witnessed a tough time, Artisans make designs on the clothes by hand and then the machines fill the design.
their problems have gone unnoticed by from the cancellation of the fashion
the people in power. Their struggle for week in Delhi to pulling shutters on many
survival did not catch the eyes of the stores and factories.
general public as well.
Smaller designers, PR firms amidst others
During the nationwide lockdown, have been pushed to the brink of
some had the privilege of working from closures, while consumers re-examine
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their relationship with their belongings. Group based in Surat has similar views, “Sir
However, fashion designers make sure that asked us to stay at the factory itself, but due
their extended families are not left in a to strict inspection and Covid guidelines
lurch when the economy is collapsing, and we were forced to vacate the premises.”
every moment is a cliffhanger. He had no other choice than returning to
his home town. When he was not able to
Quoting the Entertainment Times, in an find a mode of transport and did not have
article published on April 12, 2020, titled enough money to buy expensive tickets,
“Fashion industry unites for its karigars and he decided to walk to Uttar Pradesh.
vendors with relief work” writer Divya Kaushik,
and Rishabh Deb wrote, “Sabyasachi Even workers who were working in their
Mukherjee revealed he had sent all of his hometown had to face multiple problems.
workers on indefinite leave, and they will Kishan Tiwari, a Chikankari embroiderer in
continue to collect their salaries for as long a small-scale workshop, Zeenat Chikankari
as possible. Anita Dongre has set up a Rs centre, expresses his situation by saying,
1.5 crore medical fund to support small- “Working in a small-scale workshop has its
scale vendors, self-employed artisans, own drawbacks, ma’am tried to pay us but
and non-medical insurance partners.” But we never received full salary. We had to
these are known designers who came out adjust in whatever we got.” He further talks
to help, but the workers from small scale about how other NGOs helped him and
manufacturing units had a different say in others in his area by providing food. He was
the topic. not the only one; other workers suffered the
same fate.
Sanjay Mishra, 34-year-old embroiderer
from Pinal Creations based in Surat says, Though many designers and owners could
“Sir was very helpful in the beginning, he not help their workers because of lack of
gave us full salary and helped us return money, even when they wanted to help,
to our hometown. Once we returned, he they couldn’t as small businesses are not in
stopped sending the salary and has not a position to process structured paperwork
yet informed about the opening of the to get bank funding, which results in the
unit.” Though the owner was paying them closure of these businesses. Hence to
initially and helped everyone return, he prevent that, they stopped helping the
now withdrew his help due to low income. workers and are still not particular about
When the artisans need the money and when they will reopen, creating financial
a job, the owner cannot guarantee them problems for the workers.
about it.
Some owners tried to do everything they
Saqib, a 28-year-old tailor from Sanskar could. From providing shelters to food,
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they stood with their workers throughout Gupta, and Manish Malhotra to be aired
the lockdown. Usman, a 30-year-old tailor on Discovery Plus and TLC lifestyle channels
from Bela Creations in Lucknow, said, from August 17, as they reveal their lives and
“Besides paying our wages, ma’am kept learnings under lockdown. The episodes’
additional supplies at home if we ran low highlight is a symbolic creation of a face
of ours. She’s been talking to us regularly, mask, conceptualized and crafted by the
reassuring us, making sure we don’t fall designers, with materials available in their
victim to fake information and rumours homes.
about the pandemic. Her everyday routine
now is regular video calls to uplift our spirits The five designs reflect the spirit of Indian
and keep track of our essential supplies.” indigenous crafts. From Dongre’s Pichhwai
Further, he adds that when workers were artwork and Mishra’s tribute to hand block
away from their family, during such a printing to Gupta’s digital rendering of
crisis talking to the owner helped them Pattachitra scroll paintings and more, the
and encouraged them to stay, instead of designs are dedicated to crafting practices
walking on roads. and the societies that hold them alive. Not
only the project’s aim to get consumer’s
Not only designers were helping their attention was achieved, but the sales also
workers, but fashion magazines also took helped the pandemic struck artisans. All
the initiative. Condé Nast India launched profits from the purchases were given to
‘Behind The Mask,’ a ground-breaking seven NGOs associated with GiveIndia,
multi-faceted campaign to raise awareness which provide relief to weavers, handloom
of our craft families’ public safety and workers, and ancillary artisans spread
economic hardship. Vogue India and GQ nationwide.”
India are coming together for the first time
in a multimedia partnership with Myntra Though many people from the industry
for a six-part video series featuring some of are working together to help the artisans,
India’s leading names in fashion design, as no one can change the fact that many
they unmask their creative self. new designers and small manufacturing
units suffered a significant loss, resulting in
Quoting from Vogue, in an article published the closure of them. The craftsmen working
on August 13, 2020, titled “Everything you for them will be unemployed, even the
need to know about Behind The Mask, a ones which are not closed will need time
Vogue + GQ initiative” writer Garima Gupta to replenish. When the situation is normal,
wrote “Each episode, entirely shot and these artisans will need financial stability,
produced remotely, follows Anita Dongre, which no one can guarantee.
Tarun Tahiliani, Rahul Mishra, Gaurav
* * *
New Delhi
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Modish Necessity
By Rashi Goel
Who could have known that face masks upgraded to four-step check. People’s
would become the most remarkable mind has been trained to make sure
fashion accessory turn up in the year you’re wearing a face mask when
2020? This pandemic has affected going out.
various things all around the world.
Wearing a mask is crucial now. Keeping
Earlier, whenever people used to head ourselves protected is a must but that
out, they did a quick three-step check doesn’t mean that people can’t protect
to see if they got their wallet, car/ themselves in style. From designer to a
home keys, and phone. Ever since the normal person everyone is craving for Illustrated by: Rashi Goel
pandemic, this three-step check has uniqueness and variation in their face Pearl Academy, 2020
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“Nowadays, most people are taking it as a forced necessity as they are either
wearing it because of the fear of challans, or people around will pinpoint or just for
the sake of wearing it (below nose or over chin- which is completely baseless and
ruins its very purpose). Moreover, with multiple options around, necessity is turning to
a fashion accessory.” says Kartik, 25, Designer at Odhni.
“Before the pandemic too, there were brands selling masks that existed. There will
be demand in the market when schools and colleges reopen.But unless the disease
is 100% gone, it’s going to remain a necessity and brands are going to earn, so
they’ll make a statement out of masks only”says Mehlr Kalra, aged 26, Delhi-based
Photographer.
* * *
Illustrated by: Rashi Goel
Pearl Academy, 2020
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With people picking out clothes from their grandparent’s closet, vintage is
becoming the new classic.
By Diya Ahuja
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DRESS
IN
DISTRESS
- Lori Pathak
With everyone forced to stay at home,
the sales of comfort wear have sprung
up. People are buying comfortable
sweatshirts and pajamas instead of
dresses and skirts. Since there is a halt
on parties and outdoor activities, glam
outfits and formal wear are losing their
wardrobe space. When you buy com-
fortable clothes that look good on you,
there’s no going back.
As everything from school to galleries has gone virtual in the past few
month’s fashion isn’t far behind. Inspired by the rise of influencers, some of
the earliest virtual models first appeared on Instagram.
By Jessica Arora
avatars that personify their unique identity. Models can live among humans but not
As well as appearing front replace them.
and center on the covers of magazines,
these virtual avatars are also being shown Ninja Singh, 28, Super Model, Founder and
alongside human models in various Director of Ninja Models India, A Model
lookbooks and are also being signed to Management Agency said “Brands are not
international modelling agencies.” collaborating with virtual models instead of
human models. It is the human tendency
“The worlds of fashion and brand to challenge himself and challenge the
endorsements are evolving as we speak, whole idea of technology, now that rtificial
with the increase in popularity of virtual Intelligence has come into such a big role
models of social media surely brands will play in our day to day lives, people think
collaborate with them.” Said Aarti Luthra that Fashion sector might also be a place
Arora, 40, Won the title of Mrs. Supranational for robots and virtual models but that’s
in a beauty pageant - Mrs India worldwide, not true fortunately. The fashion world
Delhi. She has also an Image Consultant is very organic as well as, the rest of the
and Soft Skills trainer. She Further added world since fashion is something which is a
that in her opinion, these virtual models representation of a generation and how
can never replace the human models. people have lived in a time span.”
When we talk about the raise in Virtual
modelling, one thing is for sure that virtual Living in the digital age, where many
models do exist but not a prominent people are spellboung to their phones
manneratleast for now and also maybe and laptops and due to everyone being
not in future since we humans look up to homebound, there is no reason for anyone
the models for inspirations or clothes are to not be transfixed by the technology, one
bought for festivities and lifestyle and these could argue that reality is already taking
factor comes from bodies behaviour and a back seat. It is as though the fashion
conduct and a Virtual Model can never industry feels it has to react to the current
show a behaviour or a conduct that as a trend in order to avoid getting left behind.
human being can show in a garment. “I think virtual humans are a natural thing
to come after Artifical Intelligence and
Zoe Dvir, 23, Virtual Model, Israel explained Chat bots become part of our daily life.
“Brands are still checking things carefully, Virtual humans express the realization
but saw lots of interesting and understanding of Computers, Artifical Intelligence and
the quality and pros using virtual models”, machines” said Zoe.
Quoting The ukmodels.co.uk, in an article
published on Jan 6, 2020, titled “The Future With innovations using advanced
of Modelling – Can Virtual Models Really technology, Virtual Models may seem like
Replace Real Faces?” Where writer Melissa the answer in a post-Covid world, which
Keen said “The lines between real-life will rely heavily on social distancing. But
models and computer-generated “virtual will it replace human models over time?
models are becoming very blurred. Top Will Human Model and Virtual Model can
brands are using fictional models to wear co-exist without intervention? We’ll just
their designs and share millions of followers have to wait to Find out.
on Instagram.” According to Zoe, Virtual
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Switch to Sustainability
By Sanaya Dutt
With the outbreak of the fatal Corona At a time where the world was forced to
Virus during the early months of 2020, State focus only on their essential needs, as
governments across the globe released resources ran low and people struggled
emergency directives restricting any and to afford the variety of luxuries, they once
all forms of social gathering and public lavishly indulged in, a large majority were
movement with an exception to essential introduced to the idea of sustainable living.
services. This led to numerous fashion To make do with what you already have
retailers and outlets to shut down shop and and only take what you truly need. This
seize almost all production and activity until ideology extended to the world of fashion
further notice. “Our staff left to go back as well. As the demand and supply ran
to their respective hometown in a matter low, both brands and customers revelled
of hours fearing the risk of unemployment in a sense of need-based production and
and death due to this forsaken virus.” purchase which led to the rise in awareness
commented Mr. Jitesh Lakhwani, the and practice of Sustainable Fashion.
owner of a large scale garment production
and export house in Delhi. Sustainable Fashion from a brands
perspective is to create in a way which
With almost all fast fashion outlets shutting is most considerate of humanity and the
down for more than two seasons, it environment. The goal is to have a system
was observed that a large section of its which works without leaving a negative
consumers finally had the opportunity to footprint. “It’s not just about creating a
break away from their helpless habit of product that lasts but creating it in a way
being attracted to flashy sale signs and that doesn’t have an adverse effect on
new collections like moths to a flame. “I had the environment. There are numerous
a weekly routine to visit malls and stores to ways to achieve that.” stated Aashna
window shop and three out of five times I Sign, owner of Olio Stories. “For example,
would end up purchasing something or we encouraged our audience on social
the other. It’s a habit that helped me relax media to send in customized orders rather
and unwind after a stressful week of work. than having to buy ready-made items. In
I really miss that!” exclaims Girik Madan, a this case we were supplying directly to the
student of NIFT, Kolkata. demand, nothing more and nothing less.”
Prisoners to their need to shop regularly, On the other hand, for a customer, this
they had been cut off from their source, left means thinking about what you buy,
high and dry and aching for some good knowing which philosophies you are
old retail therapy. Finding an alternative supporting through your purchases, and
to satisfy their need to shop became also asking yourself if you are really going
imperative as the world outside shut us in. to wear that new piece to the extent that it
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ECHO ISSUE ONE |2020
was worth being made. This makes both “It’s no longer about the brand, it’s about
the brand and customer more aware of being able to wear something and feel
the consequences of being a part of the good in it. At the end of the day fashion is
endless cycle of production and purchase. about individual style and more importantly
how you feel when you’re wearing what
Mislabelled as expensive and high you’re wearing. If I feel good in it, I don’t
maintenance, sustainable fashion is largely care if it’s from someone else’s closet.”
misinterpreted as a high snob society trait says Anushka Kumar, a fashion and design
that only the rich can afford, when it is in student from Mumbai who is an avid online
fact nothing like that. It is the ability to make thrifter. “Almost everything I have bought
more conscious choices while indulging during lockdown has been from some else’s
in fashion. It does not always require you closet and I have had no complaints so far.
to shell out more money than you can Just make sure to ask for any defects or
or compromise on what you like. It starts damages on the garment before making
simply with a switch. To switch to a better the purchase and you’re good to go. I am
alternative which will yield a better result in sure I will continue thrifting even once the
the greater scheme of things. To switch to stores open and everything goes back to
a better lifestyle which will ensure a better the old normal.”
future for the planet, the people and most
importantly you. Although, do these online second-hand
stores fulfil the shoppers desire for variety?
In light of the recent pandemic, we Do they have something for everyone?
observed a huge spike in individuals “It’s actually quite simple to find what you
actually switching to this conscious lifestyle like. When you’re on social media you
by choice. With both external and intrinsic usually end up finding like-minded people.
factors at play, the world of sustainable Similarly, you will also find people who share
fashion has slowly but surely made its way the same style as you and to be honest, the
into everyone’s lives (and closets). As the Instagram algorithm does most of the work
stores were forced to shut down and the for you. Click on one thing you like and
shoppers were asked to stop, they quickly you’ll slowly find hundreds like it appearing
adapted and in turn set up some of their on your screen in no time.”
own. As the world outside remained shut
behind closed doors, this small sustainable Other popular and sustainable fashion
business began to blossom. The rise of practices which are generally slightly
reselling pre-owned clothing via online thrift heavier on the pocket include buying from
stores caught on as a trend which spread small scale brands that follow an end to
faster than wildfire. end sustainable process of garment
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ECHO ISSUE ONE |2020
* * *
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CULTURE
88
Confining Nuptials
94
Freedom Fabric makes a
comeback The current situation that the world is
facing, the very element of touch has
100 started to come under threat.
Disconnection
104
DISCONNECTION
IndiGenius Label: The New Game
Pg. 96
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Confining Nuptials
By Rashi Goel
They refused to let the lockdown dampen their spirits and had a zoom wedding
What happens when lockdown throws they wanted their wedding day to look instead.
a hurdle on the way to matrimony. Well, like. “All our dreams got shattered” said Source: Riddhima and Ankit
a sudden drastic change in anything Ridhima.
brings a lot of chaos. Especially when it
comes to the day of the wedding when “Even though we incurred huge losses
people have been dreaming of it for a because of the sudden cancellations, it
long time. was a comforting moment to know
that I can still get married during the
Ridhima,27, and her spouse Ankit,30, lockdown with my immediate family
were getting married on 15th of April, around me” she adds.
2020. Both had a specific vision for what
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ECHO ISSUE ONE |2020
Indians love to get gathered in close multiple functions and elaborate clothes-
groups, be it on public transport or wedding couples going back to the basics on
ceremonies. They can not continue to do arguably the most important day of their
so in these times. Even so, Ridhima’s partner lives. “In the end, it’s all about marrying the
who is quite tech-savvy gave a wonderful person you love, so at least you get to do
idea of making the wedding broadcast that,” she giggles.
online. From Trimming the wedding guest
list to fewer attendees to private zoom call Wedding Industry has been impacted due
meetings was sent to close relatives. “For to lockdown in the wake of COVID-19. Now
the rest of the world the wedding went the conception of a virtual tiny low-key
live” mentioned Ankit. ceremony, getting married at Backyard is
drifting.
The old culture is back again to rock. The
trend of simplicity and focus between the Wedding culture is usually sold as ‘your
ceremony of being husband and wife. perfect day’. Settling for simplicity is not like
Earlier, people used to get married in their settling for less. “At the end, we realised
‘Aangan’, people seem to be doing the being happy with your close people in
same now. a wedding is what all that matters,” she
Recasting the idea of the luxurious Indian concludes.
wedding —with guest lists running into
many hundreds. Lakhs of rupees spent on
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By Lori Pathak
From being a symbol of self-reliance, Rohit Bal, Anju Modi, Payal Jain, Poonam
sustenance, and hard work to evolving Bhagat, and even Manish Malhotra
and becoming a luxury product, have showcased their collections
Khadi has come a long way. Almost a around khadi in various fashion shows.
century after the Swadeshi movement Not to forget brands like Eleven Eleven,
propelled the nation to stand on its feet, Akaaro, The Pot Plant, and many more
Art: Ishita Shail Pathak the hand-spun and handwoven fabric, embrace the freedom fabric.
Styling: Lori Pathak Khadi, has acquired a space in the
Photographed by: Lori Pathak millennial wardrobe. Designers feel that perception of khadi
needs to be changed, and couturiers
Many designers like Rajesh Pratap Singh, are working toward giving the fabric a
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DISCONNECTION
- Diya Ahuja
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Indians are preferring homegrown brands and helping the fashion industry,
in promotion and preservation of local craftsyouth khadi, the home-grown
fabric has become the new ‘it’.
By Lori Pathak
The millennials are a group of energetic Even the industry feels that the concept
advocates of sustainable fashion. of ‘Made in India’ is the right step, to
Everyone believes that all fashion should make India, the powerhouse that it can
be made impartially, transparently, and be. Many local brands that are coming
ethically. India has a vast consumer up, have a global sense and awareness,
market. People want to make sure at the core of their ideology. They are
that measures are taken to look after not intimidated by their Indian origin;
the workers and makers. Being the instead, they are a rare breed of luxury Featuring a Fab India outfit, promoting the Indian labels
consumers, it is our duty to promote brands with a distinct Indian personality.
Indian brands and local labels. ‘Indian’ as a brand itself is not viewed
as a luxury. It makes it double as unique
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when these brands take it upon themselves manufactured in India, rather than any
to improve India’s image, globally through international brand.
their range.
Many designers have been incorporating
Quoting the Fashion Network, in an article native crafts of various places like Kutch.
published on July 9, 2020, titled, “FDCI Quoting Her Story, in an article published
promotes ‘Made in India’ with digital on July 2, 2020, in the article ‘This fashion
campaign” writer Isabelle Crossley wrote, designer-entrepreneur is on a mission to
“The Fashion Design Council of India revive dying Suf embroidery in Kutch’ writer
(FDCI) is promoting designers and brands Nirandhi Gowthaman says, “On a trip
that work with Indian craftspeople and to the Kutch region in Gujarat, Vanshika
showcase traditional textiles in its new digital Gupta discovered the intricate art of
campaign featuring short films. The FDCI is Suf embroidery practiced by women. It
sharing a series of short films, depicting the involves a painstaking process and is
production process, of a number of brands centered around triangles called Suf. The
on its social media, to promote the Indian art form is slowly dying and is supported by
crafts sector and encourage shoppers to a few NGOs in the region. She wanted to
buy Indian-made products, to aid the post- support the craft and the women creating
lockdown recovery”. it and thus, she started incorporating the
work in her own designs.
Deep Kevadiya, a 20-year-old
communication design student from With the help of her small team comprising
Gujarat, shares his views, “Nationalism and a masterji, two tailors, a senior designer,
pride in being an Indian, are also shifting a trims handler, a helper, and the
the scales in favor of homegrown brands. craftswomen from Kutch, she hopes to
Promoting Indian textiles and labels will make her unique mark with Suf embroidery
help the economy expand and support as her label’s USP. In the future, she hopes
small-scale craftsmen”. He also points out to work with different crafts and weavers,
that in house labels, deliver similar quality to make her own fabric, and experiment
and less expensive designs, resulting in the with Suf and more crafts.”
welfare of these craftsmen.
Malavika Dalvi, a 22-year-old, fashion styling
The Indian customer remains very conscious student, from Mumbai, says, “A significant
of ‘value for money’, local retailers are change is the waning ‘Phoren’ allure.
in a stronger position to recognize the Consumers are now persuaded, that local
value proposition. Several brands offer the labels can compete with global brands”.
same quality of clothes. Hence, millennials She also believes that Indian customers
generally choose to wear a brand have changed the way they shop. Their
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purchase is characterized not only by the “Instead of shopping blindly, from hyped-
name of the brand but rather, by the idea up international labels that burn a big hole
of the gain that the brand offers. It is also in my credit card, I would consider these
based on the value it provides and the funky, high-quality and, most importantly,
quality of the product. truly affordable homegrown fashion labels
in return for a dress that I can only wear
Nowadays, many major local brands and flaunt once, on Instagram”.
have started introducing their products in
small towns. Local activities have helped Quoting the Indian Retailer, in an article
designers, to make garments based on the published on July 21, 2020, titled, “Be Vocal
consumer’s preferences. It has also given for Local: Bringing Indian retail brands to the
an advantage to native crafts and assists forefront”, writer Shreevar Kheruka wrote,
them in their revival and promotion. “Amidst the global pandemic, followed by
lockdown for months India’s prime minister
John Chacko, a 21-year-old fashion Mr. Narendra Modi urged India to be ‘vocal
designing student from Kerala, gives his for local’, moving towards an Aatma Nirbhar
opinions, by saying, “Local brands have Bharat, in which he appealed to all citizens
a tremendous benefit because of their to buy and endorse products made in the
strong knowledge of the regional context. country. Today, India’s credibility amongst
In their style, they integrate certain motifs Indians and beyond is stronger than ever.
that are capable of attracting millennials”. There is visible momentum, energy, and
He further adds, apart from understanding optimism which local manufacturers like
and embracing the Indian essence in ourselves are experiencing, and with the
the collection, these brands are easily right kind of environment, we can use this
accessible to a large part of the society. as an opportunity for long term success of
Indian enterprises”.
Homegrown brands are regional, so it
lets local retailers create their particular Indian brands have brought traditional
marketing models — driving their products Indian craft techniques into sharp,
efficiently to as many store shelves as contemporary focus. They have managed
possible in a relatively short period. Another to take influence from India’s rich heritage
advantage is their desire to go further, to the direction of minimalism and
which is a challenge for global brands. environmentally conscious fashion. In every
way, these labels have rightly won their
Gargee Jajodia, a 23-year-old, product spot in our shopping carts and wardrobes.
designing student from Mumbai, says,
* * *
Some of the homegrown labels we can’t get our eyes off.
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LIVING
112
A Lover’s Discourse
114
Isolation
116
Unfiltered: A Journey
With people staying in at their
houses, loungewear becomes the
122 new workwear.
Pessimism and Optimism
Loungewear:
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Loungewear: New
Workwear
new workwear
Pg. 118
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ISOLATION
You rather be out than caged inside. You are what you truly need,
Put those thoughts in a bag and swal- To get out of this, trust yourself and take
low your pride. the lead.
For this is how you live your life.
Wipe those salted streams that ran
Your thoughts get louder every day, down your face
- Sanaya Dutt Your mind has slowly led you astray. Stand up, dust off and embrace.
There’s no place to run, no place to Embrace the light that seeps within
hide. Through the chink in your armor
The silence is deafening. It’s crushing Let it flood your soul.
you inside. Help you remain calmer.
You fight yourself, In times of loneliness in times of need
Your heart, your mind You are all you’ll ever need
You’re going to lose it all, be left with You’re not alone
nothing to find. For we stand together
And look ahead to a tomorrow.
It’s a battle lost That will be better.
But at what cost?
At the cost of sanity
Is that what matters the most?
You ask yourself as you reflect,
What are these emotions you’re trying
so hard to deflect.
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Unfiltered: A Journey
“I honestly felt very vulnerable about sharing these self portraits initially. The
idea of being able to express a part of me, a part of my skin, in this raw form is Authenticity is one of the major things that people respect these days. From
something that I’ve never done before. Being a restricted person, who doesn’t let influencers to real people, everyone is looking for content with which they
can relate to.
people in easily, these portraits give a sense of the person that I am, the things that
I’m fond of and the pictures that are a part of me. ” By Diya Ahuja
In an article published by The New Yorker Divyata Pal, a 20-year-old, BSC Finance
on October 1st, 2019, writer, Carrie student at NMIMS, Bangalore, says, “I try
Batton exclaimed, “Instagram, once a to be as real as possible on my Instagram.
platform where life experiences could There was this sudden realization, that
be reduced to a beautiful snapshot and not everyone who follows me, is going to
a catchy phrase, began to feel more validate me. So, why not post whatever
like LiveJournal. Captions grew longer I feel like posting”.
and read more like personal essays.
Some were highly specific and heavy, Human connection is all about
others vague and lighthearted”. relatability because not everything is
always as polished as it looks on digital
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mediums. The whole perspective is to maintain a particular lifestyle just for the
changing. The whole energy is changing. sake of Instagram.
Divyata Pal further says, “Generally, the
In an article published by Entrepreneur. things that I post are very random and
com, on April 17, 2018, writer, Kofi Frimkong spontaneous, they’re about the thoughts
says, “There are creators, who are that I have in my mind at that point in
beginning to create content on social time. I try to keep them as less cosmetic as
media with the understanding that real life possible because that is what being real
is not a series of just highs. Giving a more means to me”.
holistic view of your life, the good and the
bad is more likely going to help you attract A lot of things contribute to one’s self-
more interest because that’s how most acceptance and being real on Instagram,
people’s lives are”. adds up to that. It makes one realize, that
the whole concept of being filtered won’t
Khushboo Changlani, a 19-year-old aspiring do good and is a waste of energy.
content writer, studying at HR College in
Mumbai, when asked about this, said that Riddhima Katiyar, a 17-year-old, St. Pauls
she is still under construction when it comes School graduate, from Gorakhpur, Uttar
to the fear of validation. Further adding, she Pradesh, says, “My journey to being real
said that she feels that self aceeptance is on digital was a very long process but it felt
an ongoing process and whatever content liberating. Initially, my Instagram was more
she posts on Instagram, contains a huge about my filtered pictures or some travel
part of her. stories with one-liner pretentious captions.
Now it revolves around my state of mind or
People now, really don’t care to maintain my opinions about certain topics”.
their Instagram feeds. They don’t think too
much about it because it’s not only just It all rounds up to be as natural as possible.
real content that attracts the audience, It isn’t about planning or even thinking
but it also removes this pressure of creators twice before posting something. The more
random it is, the real it feels.
Self Portrait * * *
Diya Ahuja
Pearl Academy 2020
•Kusha Kapila (32-year-old, Social Media Influencer)
“ I have spent many birthdays getting pathetically existential, trashing myself, my
work, my body, my trajectory- of how little I have achieved in the most productive
years of my life...I am as much as my imperfections as my strength, as much as my
failures as successes, as much as the people I emulate who empowered me along
the way”.
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Optimism
vS
Pessimism
- Jessica Arora
Pessimism
Pessimism
Art by Jessica Arora
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Optimism
Optimism
Art by Jessica Arora
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By Jessica Arora
weddings are getting postponed, schools already stocked up for most of their styles
and offices shifting to work from home, and that worked in their favor, around the
loungewear seems like a really smart idea. phase of lockdown two. When the delivery
services opened up, people did not want
Quoting the Hindustan Times, in an article to step out to malls for shopping at that
published on March 23, 2020, titled time. Online shopping experience and
as “Coronavirus lockdown: Alia Bhatt, customer relations took the centre stage.
Deepika Padukone, Rihanna, Priyanka She further said that they are planning on
Chopra shows how to rock pajamas all working on our loungewear line for
day, every day,” Radhika Bhirani wrote, the Autumn/Winter season.
“Celebrities from Alia Bhatt to Deepika
Padukone are constantly posting on Mona Arora, 45, Founder and Creative
their social media on how to indulge in Director at Mona Arora Designs, based
some self-care and stay safe. And their in Delhi, a homegrown label for Indian
no make-up looks in their super cute Bespoke garments said, “Most of my clients,
pajamas are a pleasant change from the who are approaching me for garments,
usual severely photoshopped photo shoots are looking for something which values
they usually keep posting otherwise. So their money. People want something which
sleepwear as a trend is here to stay.” gives them the utmost comfort, something
like maxi dresses, cotton palazzo suits, dhoti
Akriti Kochar Vij, founder and owner of pants with a cotton kurti.”
Perch, based in Delhi, is a brand that
was made to fill the major gap in the She further added that people are looking
Indian market for someone who loves for the best quality fabrics that are soft and
comfortable, affordable nightwear and breathable. Not to ignore the fact that the
loungewear. Perch was born in September past two months have been the peak of
2015. Akriti said, “Since the lockdown, we summer. “Earlier, one out of four garments
have seen a spike in the industry for sure. With used to be comfort wear, but now numbers
everyone at home, comfort wear clothing are the other way around. We were quickly
like Kimonos, matching satin and cotton able to adapt to these changing demands
nightwear paired with shorts or pajamas, of our shoppers and that is one of the major
has become a priority, expendable income advantages of being a Bespoke clothing
is lower and people are looking to make label,” said Mona.
smart and wise purchases, the idea has
been to cater to that need.” Shivani Aggarwal, Creative Director and
Founder of Ani clothing, based in Delhi, a
Akriti further added that their lead time for brand that specializes in ready-to-wear,
delivery was much shorter since they had said, “Loungewear like a plain cotton t-shirt
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paired with matching shorts, has become for the people who are conscious about
the new normal. People prefer dressing their health and are also looking for
up comfortably even to go out now.” comfort like cotton leggings, slide slippers
according to Shivani, it is very interesting and tank tops etc.
to see the return of simple silhouettes over
complex ones. Snigdha said, “Due to people being
homebound, doing all the various activities
Shivani further said, “Night suits are the new like working from home, exercising and
normal too, I and all of my clients prefer lounging, has also increased our sales.”
lounging in them the whole day.” She also She further added that her company has
said that they ran promotions constantly to been able to adjust to the rising trend
lure people with her beautiful loungewear and has launched more relaxed clothing
collection. which has more comfort like casual
and soft T-shirts and shorts.
Snigdha Verma, 26, Marketing and
Operations Manager in Syria, Based in Work attire has become loose-fitting
Delhi, A brand which focuses on Comfort loungewear, people seek out comfortable
Athleisure wear said, “There is an increase clothing in which to work from home during
in demand for comfort wear, more like self-quarantine due to the coronavirus
something that could be worn for comfort pandemic. Social distancing and working
as well as to attend a meeting online.” from home have shifted consumer demand
from workwear and going- out attire, to
She further added that the Athleisure items suitable for comfort at home.
category, which is athletics plus leisure, is
* * *
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cs_@innisfree.com
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Customer Care
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