Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Aldehydic

Glen O. Brechbill

Fragrance Books Inc.

www.perfumerbook.com

New Jersey - USA

2011

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

“To my late much loved father Ray and beloved mother

Helen Roberta without them non of this work
would have been possible”

II

ARRANTING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC ©

This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in
any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case
of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed
book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House ©.

Designed by Glen O. Brechbill

Library of Congress

Brechbill, Glen O.
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - Floral Aldehydic / Glen O. Brechbill
P. cm. 596 pgs.
1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the
understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals.
4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science.
9. Creativity. I. Title.

Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187

Copyright © 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill

All Rights Reserved

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

About the Book

Another favorite fragrance of mine is the floral aldehydic family. Ernest Beaux back in 1921 created the
first. Powerful aldehydic floral materials were new then, and a large percentage was used in Chanel # 5. It was
not normal then or now to use a one part Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic material in a floral arrangement due to its harsh
odor. Many of these new materials were designed to mimic natural floral notes at a usage level of .01 or less
in an arrangement of 1,000 parts. It is supposed that Coco Chanel selected the fifth sample due in part to its
intensity possibly based on a technician's compounding mistake. Further number 5 was her lucky number.
Again, Coco's fragrance was to be released on the fifth of May in 1921.

The Wertheimer family has made billions in profits on this single fragrance. The original formula includ-
ed a large percentage of essential oils. Due to the folks at ( IFRA ), today incorporating a large percentage of
essential oils has been greatly curtailed due to sensitivity issues. This formula like many other classic fra-
grances has been reworked to correspond to these new rules and regulations. A fine fragrance that is produced
today contains close to zero essential oils predominately made up of synthetic materials, extracts, and artificial
bases. No fine fragrance of today can come close to the quality of what was produced by perfumers less then
twenty years ago. Then less then fifty new ones were released in any given year. Today over 2,000 new fra-
grances were issued in 2011.

Enclosed to the rear of this book are several hundred pages of articles written about Coco Chanel and of
course her famous fragrance. Very little can be found in any of the articles regarding the perfumer Ernest Beaux
who actually created the famous scent. The person who selected the fragrance and named it after herself is bet-
ter known then the artist who actually created it. If this manuscript ever becomes available for sale non-of the
articles can be sold. My data sheets by note within this book will soon be reworked into a new book tentative-
ly titled, The Language of Fragrance due out late Spring, early summer of 2012. That is why all of my work
has been set at 50 % view, and the printing privileges disabled.

Do any of my fragrances actually work one asks? All of them are unique arrangements. I have updated it,
and showcase the aroma materials that are unique to each of the major notes utilized in Chanel # 5. This is
something no artist in the fragrance industry will ever display. As each fragrance is updated to come in line
with the various ( IFRA ) amendments the uniqueness of each fragrance masterpiece is slowly being destroyed
and the original creativity that went into it. I would have to ask why would anyone create a watchdog agency
such as this that creates legislation that is slowly destroying a wonderful creative art. A fragrance without
essential oils lacks the intensity of the original masterpiece. Take a brush out of an artist hand what does one
have? Paint, and of course a blank canvas.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

The fragrance industry for whatever reason and the artistic creative craft are slowly being ruined by five fra-
grance houses who control nearly 80 % of the market because of greed. Again, if you are a perfumer employed
by this industry speaking out will get you fired and blacklisted for life. This is what happened to me many years
ago. An unscrupulous former employer needed my first book titled A Reference Book on Fragrance Ingredients
to save a lazy family member work. I was promoted to a Jr. Perfumer's position in a copy attempt to gain a
copy of my earlier then unfinished notes. Not knowing then how this industry worked I soon found my self
blacklisted.

Each fragrance is based on assembling a theme with certain type of aromatic materials. Perfumer's spe-
cialize creating fragrances for a single fragrance family or brand. They learn the art by watching their mentor.
This is called an apprenticeship. One is unable to work in this industry without serving in an offical appren-
ticeship. There are self-taught artists like myself, but not many. I set all of my books at 50 % view to make
them useless beyond my web site including removing the printing function.

Each of my compositional books is a unique presentation into the creative art of an individual fragrance
family. Why hasn't someone else done this before one asks? When an individual is selected into this coveted
profession you have to swear an oath to keep the fragrance art and creative thought process a secret. This is
part of the reason why there are so few books on the subject of fragrances available particularly the formula.
Today no perfumer would be permitted to display their creative craft in any correct proportions. Even though
fragrance houses have hundred's of thousands of formulas in their possession if not millions they are paranoid
of any one outside the hands of a few actually learning the art. In order to understand the art one must know
the materials intimately, and how they blend together in various fragrance blends in correct percentages.

Considering those under thirty today in age on the average read a single book for pleasure in a year I doubt
in the near future whether any of today's artists will actually create one. It takes a great deal of work to come
up with an idea, and then turn it into a book. Learning the high skill of desktop publishing took a lot of cre-
ative effort and energy. My former employer who cheated me out of a lucrative and well paid career knows
today that they made a major blunder letting me go many years ago. My compensation for a career that didn't
happen are my books. Each book will have my picture in it. Although it is from long ago, it is my hope that
my work will live on, and help future artists in his and her pursuit of knowledge. It is my firm belief that I
saved a lot of information that is slowly disappearing from the world wide web.

Obviously material that I displayed in this book could never be published. The purpose was to show case
how each fragrance family came to be. In many cases a single fragrance started a family that can have tens of
thousands of off spring. Each fragrance is unique in its construction. Again, at the same time many are simi-
lar, and in reality many smell alike because they are often very similar in construction. Lacking essential oils
the synthetics lack diffusion. This is the reason why many last only several hours after applied.

Fine fragrances are getting cheaper and cheaper. A household type product of twenty years ago contained
more essential oils then do today's synthetic fine fragrance’s. One well-known perfumer employs less then thir-
ty-fragrance materials in his compositional work. I classify this type of fragrance of a house hold nature.
Everyone is seeking to make more money with fewer materials. This in turn produces cheaper fragrances and
is part of the problem why the fine art is slowly dying.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Do my fragrances that are in this collection work you next want to know? My answer to that of course is
who knows. I do realize formulation books that you see today are for the most part misleading. Any one of
my creations can be endlessly changed, and adapted with experimenting. Taking into the account the cost for
many of the materials I doubt whether any listed in this book could be made. However, that in a nutshell is the
fine art of fragrance. It is my opinion that the composition itself should be an integral part of advertising, and
marketing of a fine fragrance. However, due to the paranoia in the fragrance industry governing a trade secret
that is the formula, which in turn creates a fragrance I doubt whether this will ever happen. In order to under-
stand this art one must know at the very least several thousand aromatic materials.

Iin the not too distant future of thirty to fifty years of time the fine art of fragrance will have completely dis-
appeared. High-speed artificial intelligence super computers plus automatic compounding machines will be the
new noses of the future. Each fragrance house has millions of compositions in their libraries. A single suc-
cessful fragrance can have many thousands of variations. The major players in the industry Givaudan, IFF and
Symrise have opened fine art creative centers in China, Brazil and India. Sooner or later due to cutting costs
no one will know for sure the true source of any given fragrance. A perfumer in China can create a fine fra-
grance for a Wall Mart or Chanel brand.

This is the main reason why there is nothing new today. An individual scent belongs to a fragrance fami-
ly. To be in that family one has to be related to a fragrance in that family. If a perfumer comes up with some-
thing different which I believe is not possible, a competitor will duplicate it with a gas-chromatography com-
puter inside a week. In today's fragrance world there is nothing new except the endless hype show casing some-
thing unique. In reality there is nothing new except cheaper fragrances that contain little or no essential oils
plus fewer aromatic materials.

I was blacklisted by the fragrance industry through an unscrupulous former employer many years ago. Due
to the computer and the world wide web I have been able to display my creative talent to its fullest. No one
has come knocking on my door seeking my services. If I can do this type of original creative work, and am
under employed what does that tell you about this industry? Non of my books will ever be printed. Due to the
nature of the pdf file I can not sell at this time a single copy without fear of unauthorized distribution to other
channels.

This book titled Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - Floral Aldehydic took over four months of work
to create. Careful study will display how similar many fragrances actually are, and why perfumers are able to
come up with new fine fragrances with several hours of experimentation. Each fragrance can be easily changed
anywhere in a formula with careful adjustment of the parts per thousand arrangement, and by the addition and
deletion of other aromatic materials. I could have taken a single fragrance and made hundreds. I chose not to
because painting the same picture over and over again gets very boring.

Enjoy.

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 Glen O. Brechbill

A World of Fragrance’s - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

International Directory by Country & House

Continent/Country/Fragrance House Continent/Country/Fragrance House

Manuscript # 1 ( A - H ) Fiveash Data Management

Fleurchem, Inc.
Manuscript # 2 ( I - Z ) Fleurin, Inc.
Flexitral, Inc.
North America Florachem Corporation
Florida Chemical Company, Inc.
Canada Florida Worldwide Citrus
Frencharoma Imports Co., Inc.
The Spice Trader
Good Scents Company
United States Gorlin & Company
Graham Chemical Corporation
Alfa Chem
American Society of Perfumers I.P. Callison & Sons
Aromatic International LLC Innospec Inc.
Artiste Flavor / Essence International Flavors & Fragrances
Astral Extracts
J & E Sozio, Inc.
Bedoukian Research, Inc. Joint American Ventures in China
Bell Flavors & Fragrances
Berje Inc. MelChem Distribution
Millennium Chemicals
Carrubba Inc.
Central States Chemical Marketing Natural Resourcing
Champon Vanilla Norwest Ingredients
Citrus & Allied
Cookson & Hunt International Co. Oliganic
Creative Fragrances Ltd.
Pental Manufacturing
DMH Ingredients Phoenix Aromas & Essential Oils
Polarome International

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Prima Fleur Brazil

Rosetta Enterprises LLC Citral Oleos Essenciais Ltda.

Sarcom Inc. J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda.

Science Lab
Sensient Technologies Corporation Petit Marie
Sigma Aldrich
Spectrum Chemicals Rai Ingredients
Sundial Fragrances & Flavors
Sunrose Aromatics Europe

Texarome Belgium
Treatt USA Inc.
Trisenx, Inc. Synaco Group

Uhe Company, Inc. Bulgaria

Ungerer & Company
Vesselino Trading Company
Vigon International, Inc.
Denmark
Walsh, John D., Company, Inc.
Wambesco Gmbh
Central America
France
Mexico
A.N.E.C.
Esencias y Materiales Lozmat Adrian Industries SAS
Albert Vielle SA
Tecnaal Group Aromatic Collection
Aromax
South America Axxence SARL

Argentina BFA Laboratories

Barosyl S.A.
Esarco Biolandes Parfumerie
Euma
Charabot & Company Inc.
Fritzsche SAICA Clos D’Aguzon

San Miguel Agici y F Diffusions Aromatiques

Dulcos Trading

Exaflor

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

H.Reynaud & Fils Hungary

IPRA Fragrances Silvestris & Szilas Ltd.

Interchim
Italy
Laboratoire Monique Remy
Baller s.r.l.
Mane SA
Moraflor Produits Aromatiques Capua s.r.l.
Muller & Koster Citroflor di G.

PCAS Espira S.p.A

Payan Bertrand SA
Prodarom Farotti Essences srl
Prodasynth
Moelhausen S.P.A.
Rhodia Organics
Robertet SA Portugal

SIPA A. Ch. Berthier Kruetz Helmut

Sovimpex
Symarome Spain

Germany Bordas Destilaciones Chinchurreta

Basf Cami de Fontainilles

Dullberg Konzentra Gmbh Destilerias Munoz Galvez, s.a.

Eramex Aromatics Gmbh Lluche Essence

Frey & Lau Gmbh Ventos, Ernesto S.A.

Lothar-Streck Switzerland

Paul Kaders GmbH Essencia, Aetherische Oele AG

Sensient Essential Oils Gmbh Firmenich

Symrise GmbH & Co. KG
Givaudan Fragrance Corporation
Th. Gyer Gmbh & Co. KG
Puressence Wuresten Inc.

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 Glen O. Brechbill

The Netherlands Fruitarom Industries

Brighten Colorchem, B.V. Nardev

Flavodor Asia

PFW Aroma Chemicals China

United Kingdom China Aroma Chemical Co., Ltd.

China Perfumer
A & E Connock Ltd. Chinessence Ltd.
Augustus OIls. Ld.
HC Biochem
British Society of Perfumers Hangzhou Aroma Chemical Co.
Buckton Home Page Ltd.
Shanghai M & U International
De Monchy Aromatics, Inc.
Tianjin Jiete Fine Chemical Co.
Earth Oil Plantations Ltd.
Hong Kong
FD Copeland & Sons Ltd.
Fine Chemical Trading Naradev
Furest Day Lawson
O’Laughlin Industries
Global Essence Ltd.
India
Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd.
Amen Organics
JC Buck Ltd. Anthea Aromatics Pvt. Ltd.
Anupam Industries
Lionel Hitchen Ltd.
B.S. Industries
Quality Analysis Bansal Aroma

SRS Aromatics Ltd. FFC Aroma

Flowersynth
Venus Enterprises
GMPCT
Mediterranean Gyran Flavours

Israel Hermani Ex-Imp Corporation

Hindustan Mint & Agro Products
Agan Aroma & Fine Chemicals
Aromor Flavors & Fragrances Ltd. Indian Spices

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Kanta House Turkey

Katyani Exorts
Krupa Scientific Oregano
Kuber Impex Ltd.
Australia
Narain Terpene & Allied Chemical
Australian Botanical Products
Organica Aromatics Pvt. Ltd.
Cosmark
P.P. Sheth & Co.
Petitgara Chemicals Perfume & Flavor Manufacturers
Premier Chemical Corporation Peter Jarvis Cosmetic Develop.
Privi Organics Ld.
W & W Australia Pty Ltd.
Raj Aromatics Aroma Corporation
Pacific Rim
SAT Group
Seema International Indonesia
Shambhala Herbal & Aromatics Pvt.
Shreeji Aroma Djasula Wangi
Som Santi House
Some Extracts Haldin

Tadimetry Aromatics Pvt Ltd. Indesso

Thakker Group
Singapore
Ultra International Limited
U.K. Aromatic & Chemicals Taytonn Ptd Ltd.

Korea Sri Lanka

Castrading EOAS International

M.X.D. Enterprise System Japan

Nepal Basf Japan Ltd.

Shambhala Herbal & Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. Kao Corporation

Singapore Takasago International Corporation

Taytonn Pte Ltd. Zeon Corporation

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Thailand

Thailand Institute of Science

Viet Nam

Enter Oil

Africa

Africa Trade

Egypt

A.Fakhry & Company

Fayyum Gharbya Aromatic

Kato Aromatic S.A.E.

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The love for ladies perfumes is
translated to their strong influence
in the fragrance industry. Thanks to
the fragrance classification created
by Michael Edwards, women can
now easily relate and explore more
scents. In defining each class of
perfume based on the natural ori-
gins of the fragrances, choosing
from among the ever growing num-
ber of excellent designer fragrances
have become easier.
Michael Edwards is one of the
world's leading authorities in fra-
grances. Famously known as a "fra-
grant gypsy", he has been associat-
ed with a number of elite fragrance
houses, perfumers and suppliers,
which enabled him to devise a sys-
tem that practically served every-
one's map towards finding the best
among the ladies perfumes to fit
personal preferences. His compre-
hensive references in the perfume
industry is summarized in his per-
fume classification scheme, which
groups a total of 2,300 gentlemen's
and ladies perfumes in four olfac-
tive families; fresh, floral, oriental
and woody.
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Each olfactive group has their sub-
categories. The fresh perfume fam-
ily is grouped into citrus, green and
water. Citrus scents (hesperide), the
oldest fragrance family, are sourced
from the natural essences of fra-
grant citruses such as mandarins,
lemon, bergamot, grapefruit and
oranges. The green fragrance gives
you the interesting sharp blend of
fresh-cut grass and violet leaves,
giving you a refreshing imagery of
the outdoors. The water fragrances
are reminiscent of the soft sea
breeze, the aroma of the wet air
combined with livening floral,
woody and oriental fragrances are
classic choices for this group.
The floral fragrances give you the
most popular among the fragrance
family. Capturing the potently sen-
sual essences of floral notes, this
group gives you a symphony of
heavenly scents. Perfumers take
pleasure in the avalanche of excit-
ing new floral notes, which created
more options for this sinful treat. In
successfully cloning the scent of
fresh blooms, soft florals (fleuri
aldehyde) established another
group of fragrance that featured
13
more delicate floral scent selec-
tions.
For more sensual selections, the
oriental fragrance family gives you
the floral oriental, soft oriental and
oriental scent selections. The floral
oriental group gives you a feisty
combination of scents that range
from sweet spices to spicy orange
floral notes. Its fruit interpretations
gave birth to more recent designer
ladies perfumes. Soft orientals give
more sensual overtones compared
to other fragrances. For oriental
selections, a mélange of exotic per-
fumery with heavy and sensual ori-
ental scents like sweet vanilla and
musks.
Lastly, the woody selection gives
you the scents of woody oriental,
mossy woods and dry woods col-
lections, which is popular among
designer fragrances. Woody orien-
tals give you a fine balance of deep
wood notes using the potent scents
of floral orientals, spices with san-
dalwood and patchouli notes.
Mossy woods give you mossy
woody fragrances which mostly are
celebrated in the fragrances created
by Francois Coty in 1917 (Chypre
de Coty). The dry woods family,
which is reminiscent of the after
dry smoky scent of Russian leather,
celebrates the deep and almost ani-
malistic fragrance notes of florals,
orientals and wood.

The task of selecting the best ladies

perfumes is meant to be a pleasure,
not an ordeal. With the growing
number of fragrances and designer
perfumes created each year, one
can easily get overwhelmed in visu-
alizing an olfactory universe.
Thanks to Michael Edwards' rare
passion for scents, a perfume clas-
sification scheme has been created
to allow each scent to communicate
well with everyone's personal
tastes.

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Aldehydes N°5 - 1921 reveals a jasmine-inflected bouquet
softened with rose.
Animal, powdery or slightly woody Leader of the aldehyde floral fami-
notes often enhance the floral bou- ly, N°5's top note soars with hes- Burberry Sport Ice - 2011
quet. The top note is a marriage of peridia followed by a floral bouquet
aldehydes and hesperidia. This sub- of jasmine from Grasse and may Burberry Sport Ice for Women is
family came into existence with the rose. Sandalwood and vetiver give like an icy floral bouquet. The per-
creation of Chanel n°5, the first flo- the end note a woody touch. fume opens with dazzling notes of
ral-aldehydic perfume with an ginger and frosty mandarin orange.
unusually high amount of aldehy- No 22 - Chanel - 1922 The flowery heart develops around
des. waves of magnolia, honeys..
Like N°5, N°22 is an aldehyde flo-
Aldehyde ral. The fragrance reveals a flight of Essence Musc Collection - 2010
aldehydes that ‘softens the headier
Olfactory chain of the long-chain bouquet of white flowers: jasmine, At once sultry and pure, this
fatty aldehydes. This is a typical, tuberose, ylang-ylang and rose.’ ‘Intense’ version has a sparkling
fatty-sweaty, somewhat pungent opening that is more dramatic than
and soapy olfactory note. The Arpège - 1927 the original fragrance’s. The per-
spectrum ranges from almondy fume reveals sweet clean aldehyde
fruity green nuances to ironed laun- The superb floral bouquet is com- notes twined with a more citrus
dry fragrances and metallic nuances posed of jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, blend.
right through to ozone, ocean-like tuberose, and lily-of-the-valley
and waxy scents. Some of the alde- warmed by spices such as clove and Eva - 2010
hyde fragrances are related to the coriander. The end note delivers a
smell of human skin and perspira- woody vanilla finish. The fragrance opens with a fresh
tion. Aldehyde C - 10 offers a cit- and sparkling combination of cit-
rus aspect, while Aldehyde C - 11 Un Air de First - 2011 rus, bergamot tea and aldehydes.
undecylene produces an animal The floral heart blends fresh and
effect and Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric a The composition opens with a green notes of violet, freesia and
cool, almost ozone-like note. blend of aldehydes, galbanum and lily of the valley.
fruity notes (peach and more), for a
pear-like effect. The floral heart

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Valentino - 2009 A woodsy-aldehyde melody with made with sumptuous flowers like
sparkling accents of cassis leaf over roses, jasmine, ylang ylang’ and
The floral notes of orange flower, a floral heart of lily and peony. The tear of Venus, a Brazilian flower
mimosa and magnolia are twisted warm, woodsy trail blends amber with a ‘sweet alsmot fruity like fra-
with pomelo and pear blossom. The and white cedar. grance’.
fragrance lies on a base of
heliotrope, vanilla orchid and rice New Women - 2007 Rive Gauche - 1971
vapor.
A gentle floral-aldehyde fragrance This bold and lively fragrance was
John Galliano - 2008 built along 2 lines: the vibration designed like a floral bouquet. Its
bubble (iridescent white tea, cock- top note soars with notes of berg-
A vibrant opening thanks to the tail of aldehydes, frosted passion amot, lemon and aldehydes.Then it
aldehydes. Then floral notes of rose fruit) and the cocoon bubble revealss a very floral middle note
and violet grab our attention, fol- Tahitian tiaré flower veil. evolving around garden.
lowed by powdery tonalities and an
intense trail with slightly oriental, Maîtresse - 2007 First Eau d’Eté 2005
woodsy accents.
The fragrance’s olfactory construc- The First fragrance has been trans-
N°5 Eau Premiere - 2008 tion is based on aldehydes, which posed into a transparent and flow-
are disseminated throughout the ery version, garbed in peony, tan-
The ingredients of N°5 are still formula. The opening combines gerine and white cedar. It can even
there, but the proportions are differ- white flowers – ylang-ylang and be worn in the sun.
ent. The ylang-ylang has been soft- lotus blossom – with violet leave.
ened. The aldehydes and neroli 1905 - 2005
bestow greater freshness. Vanilla Baghari - 2006
and woods have a stronger A classic with a fresh green open-
Fragrance designer Aurelien ing of black currant buds and vio-
Miroir des Secrets - 2008 Guichard redesigned Baghari, ini- let. A floral heart, spiked with alde-
tially created by Francis Fabron in hydes, in which rose, ylang-ylang
Described as a bittersweet alde- 1950. Turkish Damascus Rose, and jasmine predominate. The car-
hyde, the perfume blends a natural Egyptian jasmine, iris and vetiver nal close is a warm melody.
aldehyde-like note with a woodsy compose the floral-powdery scent.
trail of patchouli and musk. N°5 Elixir Sensuel - 2004
First Eau d’Eté - 2006
L'Interdit - 2007 You'll recognize the legendary
A celestial composition with peony scent of N°5 with notes of aldehy-
An aldehyde opening revealing a blending with aldehydes, des, ylang-ylang from the Comores
powdery heart of rose, jasmine and Casablanca lily, black currant and a Islands, May rose and Grasse jas-
violet. The fragrance evolves hint of amber. mine.
towards a trail of iris and sandal-
wood. Vertigo - 2006 First Edition Jasmin de Chine - 04

First Eau d'Eté 2007 The scent is ‘a floral aldehydic The rich, scintillating floral fra-

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grance of the classic version of is followed up by an intoxicating.
First (jasmine, aldehydes, narcis-
sus) is made more intense here First - 1976
thanks to Chinese jasmine absolute.
A new sensuality. First's top note is fruity with touch-
es of black currant, bergamot and
Calèche mandarin.The middle note has a
floral and aldehyde character and is
Is a chypre woody floral composi- composed of jasmine, rose, and
tion. The top note is crisp and ylang ylang.The end note is com-
cheerful, opening onto a middle posed of amber and vanilla charac-
note of rose of Damascus and May ter.
rose emboldened by a synthetic
aldehydic note, the famous. Madame Roches - 1960

White Linen The perfume opens on a note of

Citrus and aldehydes give an imme-
diate impression of freshness to this
lovely floral blend of rose, jasmine,
lily of the valley and lilac. The
overall impression remains cool
despite a woody end.
neroli and classic flowers such as
rose, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the
valley and orange blossom.The
powdery nuance of iris is enhanced
by sandalwood and vetiver, while
amber and musk give the perfume a
delicate lingering trail.

Estee - 1968 Femme - 2000

Is composed of multiple floral Femme by Lagerfeld starts off on a

accords containing Moroccan rose
absolute, Russian coriander, and
yugoslav moss combined with flo-
ral notes of tuberose, lily and jas-
mine. Carnation adds a spicy touch
and sandalwood a woody facet. The
whole creates a sumptuous bou-
quet.
Nocturnes - 1981
The sparkling top note is composed
of orange and aldehydes that reveal
the sweetness of orange
blossom.The middle note is a mar-
riage between jasmine and rose and
sparkling note of green tangerine
and lemon. A tangy touch of
rhubarb opens onto middle note of
narcissus, lily and pink peppercorn.
Its woody end note of cedar and
wild cherry are softened by a touch
of musk.
Champs Elysées-Too Much - 2000
Too Much is a sparklingly fresh
perfume, with a full top note of
bergamot and lily, a mimosa-scent-
ed middle note and a balmy narcis-
sus end note.

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Chanel N°5
PUBLICATION DATE NOT KNOWN
Chanel No. 5 is the first perfume
launched by Parisian couturier
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. The
French government reports that a
bottle of Chanel No. 5 is sold every
thirty seconds and generates sales
of $100 million a year. It was
developed by Russian-French
chemist and perfumer Ernest
Beaux. It is often considered the
world's most famous perfume.
January - 2011
Aesthetic inspiration for a new fra-
grance
Traditionally fragrance worn by
women had adhered to two basic
categories. “Respectable” women
favored the pure essence of a single
garden flower. Sexually provoca-
tive perfumes heavy with animal
musk or jasmine were associated
with women of the demi-monde,
prostitutes or courtesans. Chanel
felt the time was right for the debut
of a scent that would epitomize the
boyish, modern flapper that would
speak to the liberated spirit of the
1920s.
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Glen O. Brechbill
Iconography of the No. 5 name Beaux, whom she had commis-
sioned to develop a fragrance with
From her earliest days at modern innovations:
Aubazine, the number five had
potent associations for Chanel. "I present my dress collections
Aubazine had been founded by on the fifth of May, the fifth month
Cistercians, a Catholic order who of the year and so we will let this
placed great emphasis on numerol- sample number five keep the name
ogy. The number five was especial- it has already, it will bring good
ly esteemed as signifying the pure luck."
embodiment of a thing, its spirit, its
mystic meaning. The paths, which Design of the bottle
led Chanel to the cathedral for daily
prayer, were laid out in circular pat- Chanel envisioned a design that
terns repeating the number five. would be an antidote for the over-
elaborate, precious fussiness of the
Her affinity for the number five crystal fragrance bottles then in
co-mingled with the abbey gardens, fashion popularized by Lalique and
and by extension the lush surround- Baccarat. Her bottle would be "pure
ing hillsides abounding with cistus, transparency…an invisible bottle."
a five-petal rose. It is noteworthy It is generally considered that the
that the Cistercians, an ancient bottle design was inspired by the
branch of Catholicism, derived the Charvet toiletry bottles carried by
name of their order from this very her lover, Arthur "Boy" Capel in
flower. his leather traveling case. Some say
it was the whiskey decanter he used
In 1920, when presented with that she admired and wished to
small glass vials of scent numbered reproduce it in “exquisite, expen-
1-5 and 20-24, for her assessment, sive, delicate glass.”
she chose the sample composition
contained in the fifth vial. Chanel The first bottle produced in
told her master perfumer, Ernest 1919, is not the Chanel No.5 bottle
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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC
known today. The original contain-
er had small, delicate, rounded
shoulders and was sold only in
Chanel boutiques to select clients.
In 1924, when "Parfums Chanel"
incorporated, the glass proved too
thin to sustain shipping and distri-
bution. This is the point in time
when the only significant design
change took place. The bottle was
modified with square, faceted cor-
ners.
In a marketing brochure issued
in 1924, "Parfums Chanel"
described the vessel, which con-
tained the fragrance:
"The perfection of the product
forbids dressing it in the customary
artifices. Why rely on the art of the
glassmaker…Mademoiselle is
proud to present simple bottles
adorned only by…precious
teardrops of perfume of incompara-
ble quality, unique in composition,
revealing the artistic personality of
their creator."
Unlike the bottle, which has
remained the same since redesigned
in 1924, the stopper has gone
through numerous modifications.
The original stopper was a small
glass plug. The octagonal stopper,
which became a brand signature,
was instituted in 1924 when the
bottle shape was changed. The
1950s gave the stopper a bevel cut
and a larger, thicker silhouette. In
the 1970s the stopper became even
more prominent, but in 1986 it was
re-proportioned so it size was more
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harmonious with the scale of the In particular during World War
bottle. II, the Nazi seizure of all Jewish
owned property and business enter-
The "pocket flacon" devised to prises provided Chanel with the
be carried in the purse was intro- opportunity to gain the full mone-
duced in 1934. The price point and tary fortune generated by "Parfums
container size were developed to Chanel" and its most profitable
appeal to a broader customer base. product, Chanel No. 5. The direc-
It represented an aspirational pur- tors of "Parfums Chanel," the
chase, to appease the desire for a Wertheimers, were Jewish, and
taste of exclusivity in those who Chanel used her position as an
found the cost of the larger bottle “Aryan” to petition German offi-
prohibitive. cials to legalize her right to sole
ownership (during this time Chanel
The bottle, over decades, has was having an affair with a German
itself become an identifiable cultur- military intelligence officer Hans
al artifact, so much so that Andy Günther von Dincklage[12]). On 5
Warhol chose to commemorate its May 1941, she wrote to the govern-
iconic status in the mid-1980s with ment administrator charged with
his pop-art, silk-screen titled “Ads: ruling on the disposition of Jewish
Chanel.” financial assets. Her grounds for
proprietary ownership were based
Creation and Fight for Control on the claim that “Parfums Chanel
“is still the property of Jews”…and
In 1924, Chanel made an agree- had been legally “abandoned” by
ment with the Wertheimer brothers, the owners. “I have,” she wrote,
Pierre and Paul, directors of the “an indisputable right of priori-
eminent perfume house Bourgeois ty…the profits that I have received
since 1917, creating a corporate from my creations since the foun-
entity, "Parfums Chanel." The dation of this business…are dispro-
Wertheimers agreed to provide full portionate…and you can help to
financing for production, marketing repair in part the prejudices I have
and distribution of Chanel No. 5. suffered in the course of these sev-
For ten percent of the stock, Chanel enteen years.” Chanel was not
licensed her name to "Parfums aware that the Wertheimers, antici-
Chanel" and removed herself from pating the forthcoming Nazi man-
involvement in all business opera- dates against Jews had, in May
tions. Displeased with the arrange- 1940, legally turned control of
ment, Chanel worked for more than “Parfums Chanel” over to a
twenty years to gain full control of Christian, French businessman and
"Parfums Chanel.". She proclaimed industrialist, Felix Amiot.
that Pierre Wertheimer was “the
bandit who screwed me.” Ultimately, the Wertheimers
19

and Chanel came to a mutual
accommodation, re-negotiating the
original 1924 contract. On 17 May
1947, Chanel received wartime
profits of Chanel No. 5 in the
amount of some nine million dol-
lars in today’s money, and in the
future her share would be two per-
cent of all Chanel No. 5 sales
worldwide. The financial benefit to
her would be enormous. Her earn-
ings would be in the vicinity of
twenty-five million dollars a year,
making her at the time one of the
richest women in the world.
Advertising and marketing
1920s and 1930s
“Parfums Chanel,” was the cor-
porate entity established in 1924 to
run all aspects of the fragrance
business, the production, marketing
and distribution. Chanel felt it was
time to liberate the sale of Chanel
No. 5 from the restricted confines
of her boutiques and release it to
the world. The first target area was
the United States, concentrating on
New York City, the cultural and
commercial center of America with
the clientele for luxury goods. The
inaugural marketing was discreet
and deliberately restricted. The first
ad appeared in The New York
Times on December 16, 1924. It
was a small print ad for “Parfums
Chanel” announcing the Chanel
line of fragrances now available at
Bonwit Teller, an upscale depart-
ment store. The ad was unremark-
able, all the bottles appearing indis-
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Glen O. Brechbill
tinguishable from one and other, Perfume sales in the United States
displaying all the Chanel perfumes from 1940-45 had increased ten-
available, #9, #11, #22, and the cen- fold, Chanel No. 5 flourished. [17]
terpiece of the line, #5. This pres-
entation of the product line was the It was during the war years that
extent of the advertising campaign the directors of “Parfums Chanel”
in the 1920s and appeared only came up with an innovative market-
intermittently. In America, the saleing idea. The intent to expand the
of Chanel No. 5 was a word-of- sale to a middle-class customer had
mouth phenomenon, promoted been instituted in 1934 with the
from perfume counters at high-end introduction of the pocket flacon.
department stores by enthusiastic The plan was now to extend the
sales staff. The strategy in Europe market by selling the perfume at
was no less restrained. The military post exchanges, the PX. It
Galleries Lafayette, a notable was a risky move that may have
department store, was the first hurt the exclusive status of the
retailer of the fragrance in Paris. In
brand, but they went ahead and this
France itself, Chanel No. 5 was not marketing plan proved viable. It did
advertised at all until the 1940s. not destroy the cachet of the brand,
instead it came to epitomize a
The first real marketing blitz world of luxury and romance, a
was planned for 1934-35. “The first souvenir the soldier coveted for his
truly solo advertisement of Chanel sweetheart back home. [18]
No. 5, as the most important Chanel
perfume, comparable to her legend 1970s and 1980s
as a couturiere, ran in The New
York Times on June 10, 1934”. During the 1960s the ads had
diminished the allure of Chanel No.
1940s 5, identifying it with a scent for
sweet, proper co-eds whose style
In the early 1940s, when the bibles were teen-age fashion maga-
industry trend was to increase zines. In the 1970s the brand name
brand exposure, “Parfums Chanel” needed re-vitalization. For the first
took a contrary track and actually time in its long history it ran the
decreased advertising. In 1939 and risk of being labeled as mass mar-
1940, ads had been significant. By ket and passé. The fragrance was
1941, they had been cut back dra- removed from drug stores and sim-
matically so that there was almost ilar outlets. Outside advertising
no print advertising. The directors agencies were dropped. The remak-
of “Parfums Chanel” may have felt ing was re-imagined by Jacques
the expenditure was not needed. Helleu, the artistic director for
Sales of fragrance had flourished “Parfums Chanel.” Helleu chose
during the years of World War II. French actress Catherine Deneuve
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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

for the new face of Chanel. The Borodino, a decisive battle in the the snowy terrain sparked his desire
print ads showcased the iconic Napoleonic Wars. The success of to capture the crisp fragrance of this
sculpture of the bottle. Television this men’s fragrance inspired landscape into a new perfume com-
commercials were inventive mini- Beaux to create a feminine counter- pound.
films with production values of sur- part, whose jumping off point was
real fantasy and seduction. Directed the chemical composition of alde- Beaux perfected what was to
by Ridley Scott in the 1970s and hydic multiflores in Hougibant’s become Chanel No. 5 over several
1980s, they “played on the same immensely popular Quelque Fleurs months in the late summer and
visual imagery, with the same sil- (1912). autumn of 1920. He worked from
houette of the bottle,” Under the rose and jasmine base of Rallet
Helleu’s control the vision to return He experimented and manipu- No. 1. altering it to make it cleaner,
Chanel to the days of movie glam- lated the aldehydes in Quelque more daring, reminiscent of the
our and sophistication was realized. Fleurs, resulting in a fragrance he pristine polar freshness he had
christened Le Bouquet de inhabited during his war years. He
The scent Catherine. The scent was intended experimented with modern synthet-
to inaugurate another celebration in ics, adding his own invention
Provenance of the "recipe" 1913, the 300th anniversary of the “Rose E. B” and notes derived from
Romanoff dynasty. The debut of a new jasmine source, a commer-
The idea for the development of this new perfume proved ill-timed. cial ingredient called Jasophore.
a distinctly modern fragrance had World War I was approaching, and The revamped, complex formula
been on Chanel’s mind for some the czarina and the perfume’s also ramped up the quantities of
time when her lover, Grand Duke namesake, the Empress Catherine, orris-iris-root and natural musks.
Dmitri Pavlovich, introduced her to had both been German-born. A
Ernest Beaux on the French Riviera marketing misfortune that invoked The revolutionary key was
in early 1920. Beaux was the mas- unpopular associations, combined Beaux’s use of aldehydes.
ter perfumer at A. Rallet and with the fact that Le Bouquet de Aldehydes are organic substances,
Company, where he had been Catherine was enormously expen- carbon, oxygen and hydrogen.
employed since 1898. The compa- sive, made it a commercial failure. They are manipulated in the labora-
ny was the official perfumer to the An attempt to re-brand the per- tory at crucial stages of chemical
Russian royal family, and “the fume, as Rallet No. 1 was unsuc- reaction whereby the process
imperial palace at St. Petersburg cessful, and the outbreak of World arrests and isolates the scent. When
was a famously perfumed court.” War I in 1914 effectively prevented used creatively, aldehydes act as
The favorite scent of the Czarina public acceptance of the brand. “seasonings,” an aroma booster.
Alexandra, composed specifically Beaux’s student, Constantin
for her by Rallet in Moscow, had Beaux, who had affiliated him- Weriguine, said the aldehyde
been an eau de cologne opulent self with the Allies and the White Beaux used had the clean note of
with rose and jasmine named Rallet Russian army, had spent 1917-19 as the arctic, “a melting winter note.”
O-DE-KOLON No.1 Vesovoi. a lieutenant stationed far north, in Legend has it that this wondrous
the last arctic outpost of the conti- concoction was the inadvertent
In 1912, Beaux created a men’s nent, Arkangelsk, at Mudyug result of a laboratory mishap. A
eau de cologne, Le Bouquet de Island Prison where he interrogated laboratory assistant, mistaking a
Napoleon, to commemorate the Bolshevik prisoners. The polar ice, full strength mixture for a ten per-
100th anniversary of the Battle of frigid seascape, and whiteness of cent dilution, had jolted the com-

21

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 Glen O. Brechbill

pound with a dose of aldehyde in

quantity never before used. Beaux
prepared ten glass vials for
Chanel’s inspection. Numbered 1-5
then 20-24, the gap presented the
core May rose, jasmine and aldehy-
des in two complimentary series,
each group a variation of the com-
pound. “Number five. Yes,” Chanel
said later, “that is what I was wait-
ing for. A perfume like nothing
else. A woman’s perfume, with the
scent of a woman.”

This was the defining moment

in the creation of Chanel No. 5, a
new perfume redolent of past
places, a fragrance concordance of
Chanel’s childhood years at
Aubazine, Grand Duke Dmitri’s
royal court in czarist Russia and
Beaux’s snowy, icy arctic.

22

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Chanel No. 5 was the first fra-
grance from Parisianmarker coutu-
rier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, and
has been on sale continuously since
its introduction in 1921. It has been
described as "the world's most leg-
endary fragrance", and remains the
company's most famous perfume.
The company estimates that a bottle
is sold worldwide every 30 sec-
onds.
History
The creation of Chanel No. 5
resulted from commission to the
renowned perfumer Ernest Beaux
by Coco Chanel. According to
Constantin Weriguine, a student of
Ernest Beaux the composition was
created in exactly the year 1920
(launched a year later) and was
inspired by Ernest's station in
above the Arctic Circle during
World War I. The perfume tries to
capture the scent of extreme fresh-
ness of the northern lakes under the
midnight sun. No. 5 was one of the
formulas chosen out of a series of
10 perfumes presented by Ernest
Beaux, from the range of 1-5 and
20-24. The name was kept since
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Coco Chanel was presenting one of Coco owned 10%, and her friend
her dress collections on May 5 that Bader owned 20%. Chanel agreed
year. to owning such a small amount in
exchange for having complete con-
At the time of its inception, the trol over the product. Today, the
most expensive perfume oil was Wertheimer family still runs the
jasmine due to the expensive distill- perfume business.
ing process. Chanel wanted to cre-
ate the most costly perfume in the Style
world, and as such No. 5 relies
heavily on jasmine. Despite want- "I want to give women an artifi-
ing to do this herself, when Jean cial perfume," said Chanel. "Yes, I
Patou introduced Joy, which actual- really do mean artificial, like a
ly was the costliest perfume in the dress, something that has been
world, Chanel was actually very made. I don't want any rose or lily
scornful, saying "Joy was for of the valley, I want a perfume that
women who wanted to put their is a composition."Although not the
petty morals on display by wearing first fragrance to use them, No. 5 is
the world's costliest perfume". famous for being the first perfume
to heavily rely on synthetic floral
Chanel introduced it first to aldehydes as a top note. Before
some of her friends on May 5, synthetics, perfume either had to be
1921. Initially, it was given to pre- applied very heavily or frequently
ferred clients for free at her bou- so that the fragrance would last.
tique. The fitting rooms in her bou-
tique were also scented with No. 5. Chanel applied the French aes-
This strategy is imitated today by thetic theory that "ugly" placed
retailers. next to "beautiful," by contrast,
makes the beautiful object appear
In 1924, Pierre Wertheimer more so. In this era almost all per-
partnered Coco Chanel in her per- fumes were floral and "pretty" -
fume business. He owned 70%, designed to enhance a woman's
23
beauty with more beauty. Instead of
the scent of flowers, Coco wanted a
perfume that "reflects my personal-
ity, something abstract and unique".
She thought that a perfume should
serve to spotlight a woman's natural
beauty using contrast - i.e. the arti-
ficial perfume would make the
woman's natural beauty more evi-
dent.
Notes
Chanel No. 5 is classified as a
floral-aldehyde. Its top note include
ylang ylang, neroli and synthetic
long chain aldehydes such as 2-
methylundecanal; its mid notes
may rose and jasmine; and its base
notes sandalwood, vetiver and
vanilla.
In the UK, Chanel No. 5 was
originally available in three
strengths: Pure Perfume, Eau de
Toilette and Eau de Cologne. The
Eau de Cologne was discontinued
in the 1990s, and an Eau de Parfum
introduced.
Laboratory tests have shown
that Chanel No. 5 contains secre-
tions from the perineal glands of
civet cats. Civet is a powerful fixa-
tive, making the scent last a long
time. Animal rights groups such as
the World Society for the
Protection of Animals express con-
cern that civet is harvested in a
method cruel to animals. The
Chanel company claims that, start-
ing in 1998, natural civet has been
replaced with a synthetic substitute.
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Cultural influence directed by French director Jean-
Pierre Jeunet and was released in
Sales increased in the 1950s, conjunction with Tautou's film
especially after the perfume was Coco avant Chanel, in which
introduced in the United States. Tautou portrays Coco Chanel.
Movie star Marilyn Monroe's
endorsement of the brand is said to The first advertisement shown
have contributed to its popularity. on British TV's Channel 5 was for
In 1953, when asked what she wore Chanel No. 5.
in bed, Monroe famously replied,
"Why, Chanel No. 5, of course." Film director Ridley Scott
Chanel herself is quoted as saying, directed three TV commercials for
"A woman should wear fragrance the 'Share Your Fantasy' ad for
wherever she expects to be kissed." Chanel No. 5; the most notable is
the version with a woman lying
Andy Warhol sealed Chanel beside a swimming pool which has
No. 5's status as cultural icon when been aired for decades since its
he made nine silk screens of the 1979 introduction. Two other ver-
perfume, elevating it to Campbell sions make use of the songs 'Sea of
Soup status. And in 1959 the pack- Love' and "I Don't Want to Set the
aging itself made it into the collec- World on Fire" from The Ink Spots.
tions of the Museum of Modern
Artmarker, New York. As part of his act, exhibition
wrestler Gorgeous George would
Famous spokesmodels for the have the ring sprayed with disinfec-
fragrance have included Marilyn tant before a bout, a special mixture
Monroe, Catherine Deneuve, allegedly containing Chanel No. 5
Carole Bouquet, Estella Warren, although George claimed it was
Nicole Kidman, who in 2004 "Chanel No. 10," saying "why be
appeared opposite Rodrigo Santoro half safe?"
in a Baz Luhrmann-
directed/Mandy Walker-filmed The scent is also used in the
multi-million dollar commercial American idiomatic expression of
entitled No. 5 The Film. Actress suspicion, "Something smells here
Audrey Tautou became a and it ain't Chanel No. 5!"
spokesmodel for the perfume in
2009 when she appeared in the sec- The scent is mentioned in the
ond short film for the fragrance. 1963 Paul Newman film Hud when
The short film was veiled on the 5th Alma Brown (Patricia Neal) says to
of May (5th of the 5th - in honour Hud Bannon (Newman)
of No.5) on the Chanel website, 88 "Somebody in this car smells like
years to the day the fragrance was Chanel No. 5. It's not me, I can’t
introduced. The short film was afford it."
24
 The name, cover art and art-
work of the album Mina n° 0, by
Mina, are designed after the famous
perfume.

In The Golden Girls episode of

"The Housekeeper", Marguerite
(played by Paula Kelly) states that
it was not just a "love potion" she
gave Blanche, it was Chanel No. 5!

In a Spike Jones recording

about a rompin' raunchy Cowgirl,
the lyrics refer to her, um, horses-
table odeur "... it's more vivid, it's
more alive!" "What do ya call it?"
"Corral No. 5!".

In The Clique, Massie Block is

always smelling her wrists for sup-
port; the fragrance is sometimes
Chanel No. 5.

25

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Perfume Review Chanel N° 5 Eau Première by haute
couture superbrand Chanel was
Name: N° 5 Eau Première introduced in 2008. The perfume
nose behind is the third Chanel's
Perfume type/Volume: Eau de perfumer, Jacques Polge, who cre-
Parfum/standard: 2.5 fl. oz. (75 ml), ated many other Chanel fragrances
5.0 fl. oz. (150 ml) for women, like Allure, Coco,
Chance, Coco Mademoiselle.
Designer: Chanel
Polge created Eau Première for
Perfumer: Jacques Polge all those women who loved the
most famous perfume in the world,
Launched: 2008 Chanel N° 5 (No. 5), wanted to
wear it, but felt it wasn't for them.
Perfume ad: Et si c'était la première Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is a
fois. (As if it were the first time.) fresher, lighter, more transparent
version of the original Chanel No. 5
Olfactory group: Woman - Floral perfume. It has original ingredients,
(by osmoz.com) with the same heart and style, but
blended together in different pro-
Notes (by osmoz.com): portions in a new, modern way. As
if it were the first time: Chanel No.
Top: Ylang-Ylang, Aldehydes, 5 created today anew. At Chanel
Neroli they compare Eau Première to a
water color interpretation of the
Middle: Jasmine, Rose original No. 5 oil painting.
Base: Vetiver from Reunion, The bottle follows the concept
Vanilla of the fragrance in relation to its
predecessor. It is a more purified
Intro and the 2009 Chanel No. 5 version of the original iconic No. 5
movie by Jean-Pierre Jeunet bottle, which entered the art history
26
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through Andy Warhol's famous
silkscreen prints. The bottle of Eau
Première is still square, but taller
and somehow softer, more femi-
nine... It keeps the historic refer-
ence, but has a youthful, fresh and
updated design.
Chanel No. 5 Eau Première
On May 5th 2009 ( to honor
Coco Chanel's luckiest number 5 )
Chanel launched a new advertising
campaign for the No. 5 fragrance
family, with the new stunning
spokesmodel, French actress
Audrey Tautou. The new No. 5 per-
fume movie was directed by French
director Jean-Pierre Jeunet, who
also directed very popular eccentric
romantic comedy "The Fabulous
Destiny of Amélie Poulain" (Le
fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain;
2001).
The new perfume movie for
Chanel No. 5 "Train de nuit"
("Night train") is not just another
perfume ad. It is a short cinematic
masterpiece (two versions: 140 or
60 seconds), homage to the time-
less Chanel No. 5 perfume, the
most famous perfume of all times. Notes Lady & Feelings
Those familiar with Jeunet's work
will also be able to find references And now, finally about the To me Chanel No. 5 Eau
to Jeunet's cinematic collaboration notes of this fragrance. First of all it Première is a very tender feminine
with his muse, Audrey Tautou. is a floral aldehydic blend, but here perfume. In contrast to how a lot of
I have to mention osmoz.com's people find the original No. 5 per-
Jeunet polished the movie to witty categorization of this fra- fume, its updated version is not as
perfection, making it sensual, grance as Woman - Floral, which is cold or heavy. It is warm like sun-
romantic, but with a few ironic an allusion to the original desire of shine in the winter and fresh
edges to it. The expressive actors Coco Chanel for No. 5 perfume to enough in the summer. Wearing it
Audrey Tautou and Travis reproduce the scent of a woman. you will feel lightness and tender-
Davenport, the night train, the ness. And a lot of bold elegance and
close-ups of Audrey's delicate Top notes are a fresh, light com- high-class flair at the same time... It
shoulders and neck, the aged movie bination of citrus (Neroli), ylang- is definitely a scent of a modern
colors, the landscape, Istanbul, ylang and aldehydes. Citrus vanish- independent woman, who exactly
Billie Holiday's I'm a fool to want es fast. Floral scent of ylang-ylang knows what she wants in the now,
you... is softer and fresher than in No. 5 but values the heritage of the past
perfume. The aldehydes are still as well.
Jeunet said the story was present, they are a link to the origi-
inspired by fate and chance, missed nal No. 5 perfume. However, they Occasions & Seasons
encounters and regrets. Situations, are muted down considerably, pre-
so familiar to everyone: "I should venting Eau Première to become Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is
have taken that chance!". I should mum-aunt-grandma type of fra- much easier to love and wear than
have said "Wait, I love you!". Years grance. Quieter and modernized the original No. 5 perfume. It is far
later you regret it, the missed aldehydes make the whole compo- enough from the original to have its
chance. sition less cold, sharp and less own fresh, youthful and modern
heavy. They somehow counterbal- personality, but just close enough to
Well, the final message of the ance the clearer floral notes. The inherit the daring flair of the classi-
new No. 5 movie is the second heart notes are opulent duo rose and cal icon. It is light and inoffensive
chance. Chanel No. 5's magically jasmine, whereas the warm base enough to be suitable for every day
seductive scent intertwines the notes are slightly powdery vanilla and office wear, as well as for dif-
paths of strangers in love once with woody vetiver. ferent business occasions. Any sea-
again and gives them a second son... Tender and feminine as it is,
chance. And even though the per- Some find the drydown heavy, it is also a great choice as a wed-
fume ad was not specifically creat- woody. I don't. I find it pleasantly ding perfume.
ed for Eau Première but for the warm. The biggest problem I have
whole No. 5 fragrance family, I feel with this perfume is its staying Share As a Gift?
that with Eau Première you indeed power, it fades away really fast,
get the second chance to step into a especially compared to the original Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is a
happy love relationship with No. 5 perfume. good choice for a perfume gift as
Chanel No. 5 perfume, if you well. It is an expensive gift, though.
missed your first chance (read: But if you are looking for a unique,
hated it). luxurious perfume gift with a lot of

27

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style and iconic legacy, then this is
the right one for you.

For me N° 5 Eau Première by

Chanel is worth the price.

Quick Summary

Suitable for:

Everyday wear.
Office wear.
Business occasions.
Light enough for all seasons.

Woman/Style:

Youthful, but not necessarily

young.
Modern.
Elegant. Chic.
Urban.

Compliments:

Fresh. Youthful.
Tender. Feminine.
High-class elegant.
Brilliant interpretation of the one
and only Chanel No. 5 perfume.
Good choice for perfume gift.

Critiques:

Expensive.
Fades away too fast.
Some might find aldehydes too
strong.
Can be too powdery.

Rating:

9.0/10

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Chanel No. 5 is one of the best is still practiced today by retailer next to "beautiful", by contrast,
known perfumes in the world. It Abercrombie & Fitch. makes the beautiful object appear
was the first fragrance from more so. In this era almost all per-
Parisian couturier, Gabrielle In 1924, Pierre Wertheimer fumes were floral and "pretty" -
"Coco" Chanel. partnered Coco Chanel in her per- designed to enhance a woman's
fume business. He owned 70%, beauty with more beauty. Instead of
Coco Chanel commissioned Coco owned 10%, and her friend the scent of flowers, Coco wanted a
Ernest Beaux to make six per- Bader owned 20%. Chanel agreed perfume that "reflects my personal-
fumes. They were labelled No. 1, to owning such a small amount in ity, something abstract and unique".
No. 2, etc. through No. 6. It was exchange for having complete con- She believed that a perfume should
bottle No.5 that was to Chanel's lik- trol over the product. Today, the serve to spotlight a woman's natural
ing and became the chosen formu- Wertheimer family still runs the beauty using contrast - i.e. the arti-
la. The number "5" was also her perfume business. ficial perfume would make the
lucky number. woman's natural beauty more evi-
"I want to give women an artifi- dent.
At the time of its inception, the cial perfume," said Chanel. "Yes, I
most expensive perfume oil was really do mean artificial, like a Chanel No. 5 is classified as a
jasmine due to the expensive distill- dress, something that has been floral-aldehyde. Its top notes
ing process (which still holds true made. I don't want any rose or lily include ylang ylang, neroli and
today). Chanel wanted to create the of the valley, I want a perfume that aldehydes; its mid notes rose and
most expensive perfume in the is a composition." [1] No. 5 is jasmine; and its base notes sandal-
world, and as such No. 5 relies famous for being the first perfume wood, vetiver and vanilla.
heavily on jasmine. to heavily rely on synthetic floral
aldehydes as a top note. Before Laboratory tests have shown
Chanel introduced it first to synthetics, perfume either had to be that Chanel No. 5 contains secre-
some of her friends on May 5, applied very heavily before going tions from the perineal glands of
1921. Initially, it was given to good out to ensure that the fragrance civet cats. Civet is a powerful fixa-
clients for free at her boutique. The would last, or frequently through- tive, making the scent last a long
fitting rooms in her boutique were out the night. time. Animal rights groups such as
also scented with No. 5 to create an the World Society for the
ambience unmatched by her con- Chanel applied the French aes- Protection of Animals express con-
temporaries. This original concept thetic theory that "ugly" placed cern that civet is harvested in a

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method cruel to animals. The have the ring sprayed with disinfec-
Chanel company claims that, start- tant before a bout, a special mixture
ing in 1998, natural civet has been allegedly containing Chanel No. 5
replaced with a synthetic substitute.
although George claimed it was
"Chanel No. 10," saying "why be
Sales increased in the 1950s, half safe?"
especially after the perfume was
introduced in the United States. The scent is also used in the
Movie star Marilyn Monroe's American idiomatic expression of
endorsement of the brand is said to suspicion, "Something smells here -
have contributed to its popularity. and it ain't Chanel No. 5!"
In 1953, when asked what she wore
in bed, Monroe famously replied,
"Two drops of Chanel No. 5".
Chanel herself is quoted as saying,
"A woman should wear fragrance
wherever she expects to be kissed."

Andy Warhol sealed Chanel

No. 5's status as cultural icon when
he made nine silk screens of the
perfume, elevating it to Campbell
Soup status. And in 1959 the pack-
aging itself made it into the collec-
tions of the Museum of Modern
Art, New York.

Famous spokesmodels for the

fragrance have included Marilyn
Monroe, Catherine Deneuve,
Carole Bouquet, Estella Warren,
and Nicole Kidman (who in 2004
played along Rodrigo Santoro in a
Baz Luhrmann-directed multi-mil-
lion-dollar commercial titled No. 5
The Film).

The first advertisement shown

on British TV's Channel 5 was for
Chanel No. 5.

As part of his act, exhibition

wrestler Gorgeous George would

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Ask any aspiring perfumista about
aldehydes and you will hear that
they are synthetic materials first
used in Chanel No.5, that thanks to
them this is the first and the proto-
type of synthetic fragrances and
that aldehydes themselves have a
champagne-like, sparkly, fizzy
odor that makes the fragrance fly
off the skin. This is what they have
been told time and again. Ask any
seasoned perfumephile and you
will hear that aldehydes have a
waxy, citrusy or rosy aroma, like
snuffed-out candles (Luca Turin
was instrumental to that with his
references appearing in “Emperor
of Scent”). The truth? It’s a little
more complicated than either!
It’s a fact that aldehydes
became famous through their intro-
duction in copious amounts into the
formula of Chanel No.5 in 1921.
However No.5 is definitely NOT
the first fragrance to feature syn-
thetic aldehydes:
"Though Chanel No. 5 is recog-
nized as the first Aldehydic fra-
grance, created in the mid-twenties,
the truth is that the first Aldehydic
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fragrance was Rêve D'Or (Golden hydrogen, the compound is a
Dream), created in 1905 by ketone. The majority of aldehydes
Armingeat." and ketones have strong odors.
Ketones generally have a pleasant
Nor is No.5 the first modern smell and they are frequently found
perfume to feature synthetic com- in perfumes (e.g. muscone in musk-
ponents (that honor belongs to smelling colognes). They are also
Fougère Royale - Royal Fern by used in food flavorings. Aldehydes
Paul Parquet for Houbigant in vary in smell with most of the
1882). Aldehydes themselves are lower molecular weight smelling
organic compounds present in vari- bad (rotten fruits), yet some of the
ous natural materials (for instance higher molecular weight aldehydes
natural citrus essences such as the and aromatic aldehydes smell quite
one from orange rind, rose oil, pine pleasant and are thus used in per-
essence, citronella and cinnamon fumery. Formaldehyde is the sim-
bark ~they even appear in bovine plest aldehyde with a central carbon
heart muscle!). Several essence atom bound to two hydrogen atoms
reconstitutions by chemists (H2C=O). Discovered in Russia by
involved using aldehydes as vari- A. M. Butlerov in 1859 it is very
ous types can also be synthesized in reactive, used in dyes, medical
the laboratory. drugs, insecticides and famously as
a preservative and embalming
Aldehydes (same as ketones) fluid.
are organic compounds which
incorporate a carbonyl functional Aliphatic aldehydes possess
group ( that's C = O ). The carbon intriguing smells outside the realm
atom of this group has two remain- of simplistically nice: butyralde-
ing bonds that may be occupied by hyde for example smells of rancid
hydrogen or alkyl or aryl sub- butter (from ???????/butyro which
stituents. If at least one of these means "butter" in Greek)!
substituents is hydrogen, the com- Acetaldehyde is the name of the
pound is an aldehyde. If neither is shortest carbon chain aldehyde and
31
is one of the oldest known aldehy-
des (first made in 1774 by Carl
Wilhelm Scheele). Its structure
however was not completely under-
stood until Justus von Liebig deter-
mined the constitution of acetalde-
hyde 60 years later, described its
preparation from ethanol, and bap-
tised this chemical group “aldehy-
des”.
Hardly a fragrance exists with-
out some kind of aldehyde in it,
which incidentally makes insisting
the greatness of No.5 is due to its
synthetic materials comparable to
saying that the Pyramids are monu-
mental because of their shape
alone. It is the cleverness of mar-
keting and the propagation of a
myth that No.5 was meant to evoke
an unnatural smell (because sup-
posedly Coco Chanel insisted that
she wanted a perfume smelling of a
woman and not of flowers "women
do not want to smell of a bed of
roses") which gave rise to this con-
fusion. Chanel No.5 and No.22
later owe their vivid sprakle to a
specific subgroup of aldehydes
which are called “fatty”: strings of
carbon atoms (between 8 and 13)
coded in accordance to that number
of atoms (ie.C8) with nomenclature
deriving from Greek numerics,
such as octanal from /octo (=eight),
in which each of the 8 carbon atoms
is connected to two hydrogen
atoms. The “bouquet” of aldehydes
C10, C11, and C12 in Chanel No.5
became so popular that all conse-
quent “aldehydic fragrances” used
that sequence of aldehydes, giving
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
a fizzy perfume-y scent that is quite therefore their true nature remains
characteristic with the direct result arcane even to perfume lovers who
of having the perfume lover con- might have seen them mentioned.
fused as to how aldehydes them- For instance Triplal, a patented
selves smell. Fatty aldehydes have molecule by IFF: its chemical name
a citrusy or floral note, and a pro- is 2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-
nounced fatty/waxy/soapy tone carboxaldehyde. Its smell?
which is very apparent if you con- Powerfully green and herbal, like
sider a modern fragrance that uses crushing ligustra leaves between
them in high ratio: Sicily by Dolce fingers. None of the characteristic
& Gabbana. The soapy feel is aldehydes of Chanel No.5!
unmistakeable! As an exercise
compare that smell with your One interesting ingredient is
Chanel No.5: you will pick up the phenylacetaldehyde which has a
soapy facets in that one as well. pronounced green note (top in natu-
Another reason that they read as ral narcissus and thus used to recre-
“soap” is exactly because they have ate a narcissus note in perfumery).
been used in the production of soap The hydrocinnamic aldehydes are
for years to give that fresh lemony another family of materials from
feel. the manipulation of benzene and
their odor profile resembles lily of
Most widely used aldehydes in the valley (muguet) and cyclamen.
perfumery are C7 (heptanal, natu- One of them is the famous Lilial
rally occuring in clary sage and (patented name for lily aldehyde;
possessing a herbal green odour), also known as Lilistralis), widely
C8 (octanal, orange-like), C9 used in the replication of that elu-
(nonanal, smelling of roses), C10 sive natural essence, lily of the val-
(decanal, powerfully evocative of ley. Another is Cyclamen aldehyde
orange rind; Citral, a more compli- ( usually produced with cumene as
cated 10-carbon aldehyde, has the a starting material ).
odor of lemons), C11 (undecanal,
“clean” aldehydic, naturally present Aromatic aldehydes have very
in coriander leaf oil also used is
complex chemical structures but
unsaturated C11 undecen-1-al), are the easiest to identify by smell.
C12 (Lauryl aldehyde evocative ofAnisaldehyde smells like licorice.
lilacs or violets), C13 (waxy, with
Benzaldehyde on the other hand,
grapefruit tone)and the infamous has an odour profile of almonds and
C14 peach-skin note of Mitsouko: has several chemical constituents:
technically not an aldehyde, but a
cinnamaldehyde, amylcinnamic
lactone gamma undecalactone. aldehyde, hexylcinnamic aldehyde.
Condensation of benzaldehyde
Often the compounds are with other aldehydes gives a series
patented under commercial names; of -substituted cinnamlaldehydes,
32
the lowest member of which is used Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent
in the production of cinnamyl alco- , Paco Rabanne Calandre, Estée
hol, very important in the produc- Lauder Estée, White Linen, Pure
tion of spicy perfumes (cinnamon White Linen, Van Cleef & Arpels
note). Higher members, on the First, Nina by Nina Ricci (the old
other hand, such as amylcinnamic formula in the ribbed bottle),
aldehydes (ACA) and hexylcin- E.Coudray Musc et Freesia, Bill
namic aldehyde (HCA) project a Blass Nude and Amazing, Hermès
fatty jasmine impression despite Amazone, D& Sicily, Divine
their abscence from natural jasmine L’Ame Soeur, Serge Lutens La
oils! Most synthetic jasmine per- Myrrhe, Frederic Malle Iris Poudre,
fumes today use one or both Ferré by Ferré, Agent Provocateur
because they are inexpensive (Their Maitresse, Annick Goutal Folavril,
fibre-substantive qualities also Le Labo Aldehyde 44.
make them perfect candidates for
laundry detergents and fabric con- Hermès Calèche is poised between
ditionners). The hawthorn or floral aldehydic and floral chypre in
aubépine note, rendered syntheti- some taxonomies.
cally in perfumes for several
decades, is produced via anisic
aldehyde (p-methoxy benzalde-
hyde) and it has been sublimely
woven into the gauzy cloth of
Après L’Ondée by Guerlain (where
it sings along with heliotropin).
Additionally, the aldehyde vanillin
is a constituent in many vanilla-
scented perfumes. So nothing is as
simplistic as one might assume!

Aldehydic fragrances include

Chanel No.5 and No.22, Lanvin
Arpège, Guerlain Liu and Véga,
Worth Je Reviens, Millot Crèpe de
Chine , Balecianga Le Dix,
Revillon Detchema, Caron Fleurs
de Rocaille (not Fleur, singular),
Infini and Nocturnes, Myrurgia
Joya, Jean-Charles Brosseau
Ombre Rose , Molyneux Vivre,
Lancome Climat, Givenchy
L’Interdit, Piguet Baghari, Madame
Rochas and Mystère by Rochas,

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"I don’t want any rose or lily of the
valley perfume; I want a more elab-
orate scent". It was 1921 and with
these words Coco Chanel
addressed Ernest Beaux, the per-
fumer of the tsar who had moved to
France, paving the way for the cre-
ation of a legendary scent.
Innovation, boldness and pioneer-
ing spirit have always been the dis-
tinguishing features of Maison
Chanel since its foundation. And
it’s this same avant-garde approach
that led to the creation of the iconic
fragrance that this year marks its
90th anniversary continuing
nonetheless to generate astonishing
sales figures (one bottle of Chanel
No. 5 is sold every 30 seconds) and
attract a constantly increasing num-
ber of fans. It is said that the for-
mula of Chanel No. 5 comprises
about eighty ingredients. Among
the most discernible ones is the
May Rose, handpicked in the early
hours of the morning (this being the
moment when flowers bloom) for
twenty days to then be processed
within one hour from picking.

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Mlle.'s Nazi sympathies is known
to some, but who knew that the
most beloved perfume, the every
essence of 'All that is French' was
manufactured in New Jersey?
Hoboken?
"Chanel No. 5, the perfume syn-
onymous with Francophile luxury
and celebrity decadence, was not
always oo la la! from France.
While World War II raged in
Europe, the perfume factory was
moved to, of all places, New
Jersey, according to a new book,
"The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The
Intimate History of the World's
Most Famous Perfume ."
It was a horrifying turn of events
for designer Coco Chanel. Her chic
cologne was being made in the
Garden State, although the materi-
als were smuggled in from France.
"It is monstrous," Chanel had
sniffed, according to the book's
author, Tilar Mazzeo. "They pro-
duced it in Hoboken!"
It didn't last long. After the war, the
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Jersey-accented perfume returned The gardens, the incense-filled
to France, where production contin- churches and hand-made tallow
ues to this day. soap all inspired her.
Mazzeo unravels the mystery When she had moved up the social
behind the world's most engaging ladder from cabaret girl to clothing
scent, tracing its inception to its designer, she drew on these ele-
creator's humble origins and chron- ments to create the most revered
icling its rise to fame on the décol- perfume of all time.
letages of Marilyn Monroe, Jackie
Kennedy, Nicole Kidman and With the help of perfumer Ernest
Scarlett Johansson. Even Marlon Beaux, Chanel combined the
Brando was reportedly a wearer of "high" aroma of roses, associated
the women's fragrance. with the well-to-do, and the "low"
smell of jasmine, linked to brothels.
"It's a kind of Frankenstein myth,"
Mazzeo told The Post. "It's a story Chanel said she sought to make a
of what happens when someone "perfume like nothing else. A
creates something that becomes so woman's perfume, with the scent of
big that it defines her life." a woman."
It's nothing to sneeze at. Chanel No.
In 1920, she achieved her goal,
5 at $400 an ounce is more than a making the most expensive per-
just a luxury item, it has represent-
fume of its time, blending flowers
ed a way of life for 90 years. from Grasse, France, where a
pound of jasmine now goes for
"Perfume, it's the most important $33,000.
thing," Coco Chanel insisted.
But it's the secret ingredient that
Smells had always been important made it truly special. Beaux added
to Chanel, who was a charity-case recently discovered synthetic mole-
orphan in a small French village. cules called aldehydes, now used in
35
detergents and room fresheners.
The "clean" air smell gave the per-
fume its je ne sais quoi.

Less than a decade later, Chanel

sold 90 percent of her stake in the
perfume, a decision that would
haunt her until death.

But the story of Chanel's success

took a dark turn. While the per-
fume's new owners moved produc-
tion to America to escape the
Nazis, she became a Nazi sympa-
thizer, shacking up with an SS offi-
cer during the French occupation.

By then, the perfume's legend over-

shadowed its creator's politics.
Chanel No. 5 had become some-
thing intangible, a scent for a real
woman." – SOURCE: Susannah
Callahan, NY Post

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Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Bases

Floral Aldehydic - ( CA ) 2381 - G

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

40 Bergamot Synthetic Base S 1128

49 Jasmin Base S 1130
24 Ylang Synthetic S 1131
23 Wardiol 250 1217
8 Orange Blossom 175
21 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 10 % DPG
5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric @ 10 % DPG
8 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA @ 10 % DPG
8 Nutmeg Oil W.I.
49 Ethylene Brassylate
18 Civet Artificial @ 10 % DEP
8 Cassie Bengal @ 10 % DEP
9 Vetiver Oil Haitian
16 Heliotropine
27 Iso Eugenol 6502 ( Givaudan )
98 Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure
3 Mousse Absolute Essence # 2 ( Robertet )
58 Musk Ketone
24 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Sandalore
66 Linalool
15 Rhodinol
16 Linalyl Acetate
16 Vanillin
190 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
114 Hydroxycitronellal
58 Coumarin

1,000

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Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - ( CA ) 2381 - G - ( In Solution )

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

58 Coumarin Sweet herbaceous warm somewhat spicy.

3 Mousse Absolute Essence # 2 ( Robertet ) Oakmoss
16 Vanillin Intensely sweet creamy vanilla odor.
18 Civet Artificial @ 10 % DEP A very sweet slightly cloying fecal odor.
16 Heliotropine Sweet floral warm, slightly spicy.
58 Musk Ketone Sweet and very tenacious musky odor.
6 Sandalore Sandalwood amyris woody type odor.
49 Ethylene Brassylate @ 10 % DPG Sweet musk warm and powdery.
8 Cassie Bengal @ 10 % DEP Intense cinnamon like.
9 Vetiver Oil Haitian Woody, finest grade of vetiver oil.
98 Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure Woody, floral violet, dry.
23 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Warm honey rose
15 Rhodinol Geranium rose.
114 Hydroxycitronellal Sweet floral mild odor of muguet.
66 Linalool Floral.
27 Iso Eugenol 6502 ( Givaudan ) Mild and sweet deep floral carnation like.
49 Jasmin Base S 1130 Sweet floral jasmin like odor.
23 Wardiol 250 1217 Synthetic bulgarian rose
8 Orange Blossom 175 A very strong diffusive neroli floral note.
8 Nutmeg Oil W.I. Fresh warm spicy.
190 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) Cutter
16 Linalyl Acetate Fruity sweet reminiscent of bergamot, pea
21 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 10 % DPG Floral in high dilution
5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric @ 10 % DPG Herbaceous like in high dilution
8 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA @ 10 % DPG Amber like in high dilution
24 Ylang # 2 ( Charabot ) Floral and intensely sweet odor.
24 Ylang Synthetic S 1131 Intensely sweet floral very diffusive.
40 Bergamot Synthetic Base S 1128 Synthetic bergamot base

1,000

38

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Bases

Floral Aldehydic - ( CA ) 2381 - G - Out of Solution

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

58 Coumarin Sweet herbaceous warm somewhat spicy.

3 Mousse Absolute Essence # 2 ( Robertet ) Oakmoss
16 Vanillin Intensely sweet creamy vanilla odor.
1.8 Civet Artificial A very sweet slightly cloying fecal odor.
16 Heliotropine Sweet floral warm, slightly spicy.
58 Musk Ketone Sweet and very tenacious musky odor.
6 Sandalore Sandalwood amyris woody type odor.
4.9 Ethylene Brassylate Sweet musk warm and powdery.
.8 Cassie Bengal Intense cinnamon like.
9 Vetiver Oil Haitian Woody, finest grade of vetiver oil.
98 Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure Woody, floral violet, dry.
23 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Warm honey rose.
15 Rhodinol Geranium rose.
114 Hydroxycitronellal Sweet floral mild odor of muguet.
66 Linalool Floral.
27 Iso Eugenol 6502 ( Givaudan ) Mild and sweet deep floral carnation like.
49 Jasmin Base S 1130 Sweet floral jasmin like odor.
23 Wardiol 250 1217 Synthetic bulgarian rose
8 Orange Blossom 175 A very strong diffusive neroli floral note.
8 Nutmeg Oil W.I. Fresh warm spicy.
190 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) Cutter
16 Linalyl Acetate Fruity sweet reminiscent of bergamot, pea
2.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Floral in high dilution
.5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric Herbaceous like in high dilution
.8 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA Amber like in high dilution
24 Ylang # 2 ( Charabot ) Floral and intensely sweet odor.
24 Ylang Synthetic S 1131 Intensely sweet florla very diffusive.
40 Bergamot Synthetic Base S 1128 Synthetic bergamot base

1,000

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Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Bergamot Synthetic # B - 3000

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Aldehyde C - 8
.2 Aldehyde C - 9
46 Tangerine Oil of Florida
1 Nerol
23 Gamma Terpenes
76 Grapefruit Oil of Florida
1 Neryl Acetate
1 Geraniol Extra
4 Bisabolene
23 Mandarin Oil Italian Select
23 Grapefruit Terpenes
228 Linalool
76 Beta Pinene
2 Di Hydro Cuminyl Alcohol
342 Linalyl Acetate
8 Terpinyl Acetate
2 Terpineol Prime
1 Geranyl Acetate
83 Orange Terpenes
59 Orange Oil of Florida
2.7 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)

1,000

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Bases

Jasmin Base # B - 3004

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

260 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde

220 Benzyl Acetate
75 Benzyl Propionate
5 Para Cresyl Acetate
80 Linalool
50 Linalyl Acetate
90 Benzyl Alcohol
30 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
40 Benzyl Salicylate
50 Hydroxycitronellal
50 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
50 Peru Balsam Oil

1,000

41

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang Synthetic # S - 1131

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

69 Benzyl Alcohol
11 Eugenol
11 Acetate Iso Eugenol
39 Amyl Salicylate
6 Estragon Oil
334 Benzyl Acetate
41 Methyl Para Cresole
11 Geraniol
115 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Para Cresyl Acetate
208 Linalyl Acetate
46 Terpineol Prime
2 Methyl Salicylate
39 Methyl Benzoate
62 Methyl Iso Eugenol

1,000

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Bases

Wardia # S - 1219

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

2 Strallyl Acetate 7 Cinnamic Alcohol

1 Cyclamen Aldehyde 6 Anisyl Alcohol
.3 Leaf Alcohol 7 Amyl Salicylate
.7 Methyl Octine Carbonate 3 Heliotropine
5 Aldehyde C - 14 8 Benzyl Alcohol
3 Aldehyde C - 16 13 Linalool
16 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Methyl Benzoate
92 Lilial 6 Sandalore
43 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Iso Propyl Quinoline
186 Benzyl Acetate 9 Galaxolide 50
3 Cananga Oil Java 6 Musk Ambarette
2 Delphone 16 Benzyl Salicylate
1 Jasmone 187 39 Di Ethyl Phthalate
1 Jasmonyl 363 Di Propylene Glycol
4 Benzyl Propionate
1 Mugone 207 M
3 Para Cresyl Acetate 1,000
44 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
1.3 Cetone Alpha
.7 Lyral
2 Allyl Ionone
21 Citronellol
34 Citronellol 850
29 Geraniol 60
2 Alcohol C - 8
9 Palmarosa Oil
5 Guaicwood Acetate

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Blossom # S - 1768

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Clove Bud Oil

24 Iso Eugenol
14 Acette Iso Eugenol
3 Orange Flower Abs.
8 Iso Butyl Phenyl Acetate
26 Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless
60 Petitgrain Oil South America
100 Linalool
100 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
75 Geraniol
25 Nerol
18 Benzyl Acetate
17 Linalyl Acetate
7 Methyl Anthranilate
43 Orange Oil Biter
16 Methyl Benzoate
11 Benzyl Salicylate
1 Aldheyde C - 10
29 Oranger Crystals
6 Yara Yara Crystals
10 Galaxolide 50
12 Sandela
5 Cedryl Acetate
61 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
325 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)

1,000

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Costing Out a Fragrance

100 Lbs. Divided by 2.2046 = 45.36 Divided by 1,000 = .0453

.0453 x Parts = Grams Per Item = 1,000 Parts

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Pine Fragrance -
All Purpose Cleaner

Parts Aromatic Chemical Price Per Pound Raw Material Impact

291 Pine Oil Yarmor 302 1.03 .300

167 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1.35 .225
39 Alpha Pinene 2.25 .088
18 Eucalyptol 5.76 .104
3 Camphor Powder 2.00 .006
27 Galaxolide 50 8.75 .236
52 Alpha Terpineol 1.22 .063
26 Benzyl Salicylate 4.05 .105
24 Benzyl Benzoate 1.60 .038
23 Ionone Beta Pure 17.10 .393
3 Patchwood 1.60 .038
11 Vertenex 2.45 .026
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate .860 .029
19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3.00 .057
28 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia 6.20 .174
1 Piconia 12.80 .012
12 Fir Needle Canadian 10.75 .132
17 Coumarin 7.50 .128
20 Santalex T - Sandela 6.50 .130
152 Di Propylene Glycol .64 .097
33 Terpinyl Acetate 1.80 .033

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The Composition - Pine Fragrance

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

291 Pine Oil Yarmor 302

167 Iso Bornyl Acetate
39 Alpha Pinene
18 Eucalyptol
3 Camphor Powder
27 Galaxolide 50
52 Alpha Terpineol
26 Benzyl Salicylate
24 Benzyl Benzoate
23 Ionone Beta Pure
3 Patchwood - Pfw - Fragrance Contest
11 Vertenex
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate
19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
28 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia
1 Piconia
12 Fir Needle Canadian
17 Coumarin
20 Santalex T - Sandela
152 Di Propylene Glycol
36 Terpinyl Acetate

1,000

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Chanel # 5

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral aldehydic compounds were discovered in the 19th century. Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive
effect, and are characterized by a rich opulent top note. In small parts certain aldehydes are used as a top note
effect simulating a variety of floral scents that are found in nature. Muguet or Lily of the Valley based on
Hydroxycitronellal is a popular example. Utilizing aldehydes provide modern accords with a richness and
depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by
Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combina-
tion of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia.

Top Aldehydes

Bergamot, Lemon

Neroli

Middle Jasmin, Rose

Lily of the Valley or ( Muguet )

Violet, Ylang Ylang

Base Vetiver

Sandal, Cedar, Vanilla

Amber, Civet, Musk

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate %
Benzyl Benzoate %
Di Ethyl Phthalate %
Di Propylene Glycol %

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 Floral Aldehydic

Originator of this group is the

famous Chanel no.5 created by
Ernest Beaux for the house of
Chanel in 1921. The complicated
floral composition of this perfume
incorporates a large dose of aldehy-
des, a synthetic component used for
the first in a perfume by Ernest
Beaux.

Floral Aldehydic

Animal, powdery or slightly

woody notes often enhance the flo-
ral bouquet. The top note is a mar-
riage of aldehydes and hesperidia.
This sub-family came into exis-
tence with the creation of Chanel
n°5, the first floral-aldehydic per-
fume with an unusually high
amount of aldehydes.

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Diffusive Fragrance Chemicals

Acetoin Intense creamy fatty, buttery.

Acetophenone Pungent sweet odor, in dilution - resembles hawthorne.

Acetate C - 9 Powerful fruity green leafy odor.

Adoxal Very powerful very tenacious sweet floral waxy, citrusy.

Alcohol C - 8 Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy and sweet odor.

Alcohol C - 9 Powerful oily floral fresh petal like, dilution - rosy.

Alcohol C - 10 Used only in traces, sweet slightly fatty oily odor.

Aldehyde C - 6 Very powerful fatty green grassy odor.

Aldehyde C - 7 Powerful oily fermenting fruity.

Aldehyde C - 9 Powerful and diffusive fatty floral waxy odor.

Aldehyde C - 10 Penetrating very powerful sweet waxy orange peel like odor.

Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor.

Aldehyde C - 12 MNA Great power, fresh orange amber.

Aldehyde C - 14 Powerful peach note.

Allyl Cyclo Hexyl Propionate Powerful and sweet fruity odor resembles pineapple.

Alpha Frenchyl Alcohol Diffusive warm camphoraceous.

Alpha Ionone Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive.

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Ambrinol Extremely powerful amber with natural somewhat musky.

Amyl Acetate Powerful fruity banana like odor.

Amyl Vinyl Carbinol Powerful sweet earthy, almost buttery fungus like.

Bacdanol Powerful sandalwood note.

Bay West Indian Oil Powerful spicy and sweet, inparts freshness to soaps.

Beachwood Cresote Powerful reminiscent of smoked wood.

Beauverate A diffusive animal odor of the castoreum beaver.

Benzaldehyde Powerful sweet odor of freshly cut bitter almonds.

Benzyl Acetate Powerful sweet fresh fruity of jasmin, gardenia, muguet, lily.

Benzyl Formate Powerful fruity green herbaceous.

Bourgenal A powerful muguet note.

Bromystrol Omega Pw pungent floral somewhat grassy odor Rem of hyacinth.

Butyl Acetate Very diffusive ethereal odor resembling fermented rum.

Cade Oil Intense tar like smoky phenolic odor.

Caraway Oil Intense and spicy.

Carvacrol Penetrating dry medicinal phenolic herbaceous odor.

Cashmeran Diffusive musk.

Cassie Abs. Powerful strong spicy floral odor.

Castorium Hyper Abs. Very powerful warm animal like scent.

Cedar Leaf Oil Intensely sharp, but quite fresh camphoraceous.

Cinnamaldehyde Powerful warm spicy balsamic suggests cassia oil.

Cinnamalva Powerful warm spicy oily slight floral.

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Cis Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.

CIS 3 Hexenyl Butyrate Powerful fruity winey green cognac brandy like.

CIS 3 Hexyl Alcohol Powerful, and intensely green grassy odor.

Cistus Abs. French MD Powerful sweet balsamic, typical labdanum odor.

Citral Powerful lemony fragrance.

Citralva Powerful oily green lemony fresh odor.

Citronellal Powerful fresh green citrusy, slight woody odor.

Citronellyl Formate Powerful leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light of geranium rose.

Civet Abs. 394 BF An extremely powerful obnoxious animal like fecal odor.

Clove Bud Abs. An intensely warm powerful sweet clove spicy odor.

Clove De Girofle Resin Abs. An extremely strong spicy, herbaceous odor.

Cognac White Oil Powerful fruity wine like odor.

Cortex Aldehyde Powerful green woody sap like, but fresh aldehydic sweet.

Cumin Oil Extremely powerful diffusive green spicy, slightly fatty odor.

Cyclal - C Powerful green leafy floral odor.

Cyclamen Aldehyde Powerful green floral stem with pronounced cucumber, melon.

Cyclo Galbonate Strong herbaceous green.

Delphone Diffusive fruity floral odor of jasmin.

Delta Declactone Sweet cream nut like odor with a heavy fruity undertone.

Delta Dodelactone Fresh fruity oily odor of good tenacity.

Di Hydro Myrcenol Powerful citrus lime cologne like odor.

Di Phenyl Menthane Harsh geranium leaf orange blossom type odor more pleasant.

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Diacetyl Powerful butter type odor.

Di Hydro Anethol Quite powerful less candy like sweet, herbaceous.

Di Hydro Linalool Comparatively powerful fresh floral green.

D M B Carbinyl - Acetate Fresh powerful fruity floral, slightly herbaceous odor jasmin lily.

Dimetol Powerful lime cologne like odor similar to dihydromyrcenol.

Ethyl Butyrate Ethereal fruity suggests banana, pineapple, very diffusive.

Ethyl Caproate Diffusive fruity waxy odor suggests apple, banana, pineapple.

Ethyl Heptoate Powerful fruity wine like used as top note in fresh citrus.

Ethyl Iso Valerate Penetrating ethereal vinus fruity, dilution - apple like.

Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate Diffusive green fruity reminiscent of apple, pineapple skins.

Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful sweet honey like.

Eucalyptus 80/85 Powerful pungent camphoraceous cool odor.

Eugenol Powerful warm spicy balsamic.

Exaltolide Musky somewhat animal, delicate animal musky sweet.

Farenal Powerful intense aldehydic waxy like slightly floral.

Fir Needle Balsam Resin A powerful diffusive pine forest type odor.

Fir Needle Siberian Refreshing balsamic, slight fatty oily powerful pine forest odor.

Floralzone Powerful fresh air tone reminiscent of ocean breezes.

Galaxolide 50 Poweful sweet and musk.

Gamma Hexalactone Warm powerful herbaceous, sweet tobacco like, coumarin type.

Grapefruit Body Fleurom Extremely powerful green grapefruit odor.

Guaicol Powerful smoke like medicinal odor.

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Hexyl N Butyrate Powerful fruity heavy odor.

Hexyl Cyclo Pentanone # 405 Powerful, and diffusive dry floral green herbaceous odor.

Homo Cumminic Aldehyde 50 Powerful, diffusive green twiggy effect with cut grass hedge like.

Hyacinth Body Powerful leafy green with hyacinth note

Hydratropic Aldehyde Penetrating green earthy foilage.

Hydratropic A D M Acetal Powerful, earthy warm spicy green deep fruity odor.

Hyssop Oil Powerful camphoraceous odor.

Indolarome Diffusive, and powerful floral in extreme dilution.

Indole Powerful choking odor in extreme dilution - more floral.

Ionone Alpha Regular A very diffusive orris violet.

Iris Aldehyde Extremely powerful and diffusive orisy odor.

Iso Amyl N Butyrate Powerful diffusive fruity sweet apricot pineapple like odor.

Iso Butyl Acetate Diffusive ethereal odor resembling rum.

Iso Butyl Phenyl Acetate Diffusive leafy rosy musky.

Iso Cyclo Citral Powerful and diffusive floral green.

Iso Butyl Quinolene Earthy, mossy.

Iso Menthone Powerful refreshing minty odor.

Iso Nonyl Alcohol Powerful oily herbaceous, dilution - sweet odor.

Iso Propyl Alcohol Alcoholic ethereal, acetone like odor.

Iso Propyl Quinoline Powerful, yet tenacious earthy woody root like odor.

Iso Valeraldehyde Very powerful penetrating acrid pungent odor.

Jasmonyl Intensely sweet floral jasmin.

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Labdanum Cists Sis Abs. Powerful rich sweet balsamic herbaceous.

Lavandin Abs. In Color Powerful camphoraceous herbaceous floral type odor.

Leaf Acetal Extra Powerful oily green odor with a sweet vegetable undertone.

Leaf Acetate Intensely green diffusive odor.

Leaf Alcohol Intensely green grassy odor.

Leather 3768 - LWS A powerful diffusive leather fragrance.

Lemonrone Lemonrone Powerful lemon fragrance very chemical like.

Linalool Oxide Sweet woody penetrating odor, floral waxy earthy undertones.

Maltol Powerful warm fruity caramel sweet odor, fruity in dilution.

Mandarinal A powerful fresh citrus aldehydic mandarin orange.

Maritima Powerful clean fresh air tone reminiscent of ocean breezes.

Methyl Cinnimate Powerful fruity balsamic like, on dilution - strawberry.

Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Powerful sweet herbaceous, cinnamon, spicy, very powerful.

Methyl Jasmonate Powerful herbaceous floral.

Methyl Octyl Ketone Powerful citrusy orange.

Methyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful and diffusive honey musk odor.

Mimosa Abs. Morocco Powerful floral green.

Mint Fresh Abs. Extremely strong intensely fresh mint odor.

Mousse De Chene Abs. Powerful clean oakmoss odor.

Muguet Aldehyde 50 Diffusive green rosy sweet, muguet lily like.

2,6, Nonadienal # 332 Intense powerful vegetable green, reminiscent of violet leaves.

Octyl Formate Powerful and relatively diffusive fruity green orris.

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Orange Aldehyde Powerful, dilution - sweet orange like, fatty odor.

Orange Flower Oil Powerful light and refreshing floral.

Ortho Methyl Cinnamic Ald. Powerful sweet herbaceous woody camphoraceous.

Oxaspirane Powerful herbal minty camphoraceous.

Para Menthone Minty, refreshing diffusive odor.

Para Methyl Quinoline Powerful and penetrating, dilution - sweet floral and tobacco like.

Parmavert Powerful floral green sweet and violet leaf like.

Phenyl Acetaldehyde Powerful green woody sap like.

Phenyl Di Methyl Acetal Powerful green earthy flower stem like odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Powerful diffusive, dilution - jasmin tobacco like.

Phenyl Propyl Acetate Fresh floral powerful fruity green.

Pipertone Powerful fresh minty camphoraceous odor.

Polarose Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor.

Reseda Body Delicate, but powerful hyacinth, narcisus, reseda note.

Rhodinyl Formate Fresh leafy green delicate.

Rosalva Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor.

Sage Clary Dalmation Warm, camphoraceous, thujone.

Scentenal Powerful green refreshing watery floral odor.

Skatole Powerful sweet warm, animal.

Strallyl Acetate Powerful green floral.

Styrene Monomer Extremely diffusive, sweet grassy in dilution.

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Syringa Aldehyde Powerful, and refreshing green fruity forest like sweet odor.

Thyme Oil Red Rich sweet powerful, sweet warm herbaceous spicy.

Thyme Oil White Sweeter then the red oil.

Thymol Crystals Powerful sweet medicinal herbaceous warm.

Tobacco Abs. A diffusive material reminiscent of fresh tobacco leaves.

Trans 2 Hexenyl Acetate Powerful, and fresh green sweet fruity very natural odor.

Tree Moss Abs. C ' Less M.D. A powerful mossy type odor which lasts days on the blotter.

2,3,5 Tri Methyl Pyrazine Powerful fresh crushed nut like odor of chocolate.

Triplal Powerful citrus green.

Undecavertol Strong, however not over powering slightly green floral odor.

Valer N Aldehyde Powerful penetrating diffusive acid pungent odor.

Vanilla Sur Abs. C ' Less Powerful sweet vanilla extremely nice material.

Veltol Plus Intensely sweet fruity bread like odor.

Verdox Powerful fresh fruity woody apple like odor.

Verdyl Acetate Powerful herbaceous, green fresh woody.

Walnut Leaf Oil Powerful warm spicy sweet and rich tea like odor.

X I Aldehyde Powerful hay melon ozone note, floral aspect.

Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Floral and intensely sweet odor.

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Floral Aldehydic # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rionyl 1 Florantone T
46 Coumarine Chine 36 Geraniol
9 Vanilline .1 The
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 4 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
27 Musk R - 1 9 Laurine
2 Amberfleur 3 Nerol
9 Benzyle Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Rose Crystals 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
124 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .1 Tea Essence
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Eugenyl Acetate
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Parmanyl
4 Irotyl 6 C - 14 “ Peach “
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Iso Eugenol
3 Aquanol 1 Petilyn
24 Eugenol / Clove 4 Fleuramone
5 Hidroxcitronelal .2 Geranyl Acetate
71 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
18 Lilial
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1,000
3 Methyl Dianthanol
21 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone
4 Lioral
2 Iris Beurre Oil
24 Musk T “Ethylene Brassylate”
57 Benzyl Acetate Pure
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
5 Citronellol Prime
3 Undecatriene
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Floral Aldehydic # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Y samber K 1 Orange Flower Augustus 17

46 Coumane 36 Geraniol Prime
9 Vanilys - Pfw .1 The
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 4 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Ethiopia 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
25 Tonalid II - Pfw 10 Laurine
2 Amberfleur 3 Nerol
6 Benzyle Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Rose Crystals 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
10 Sandalore 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
127 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Tea Essence
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Eugenyl Acetate
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Irotyl 6 C - 14 “ Peach “
7 Vanillinethyl 3 Iso Eugenol
8 Aquanol 1 Stemone
24 Eugenol / Clove 1 Fleuramone
5 Meijiff .2 Geranyl Acetate
69 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Vanilla Resinoid
18 Liral
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol ( DPG)
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1,000
3 Methyl Dianthanol
21 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone
4 Lioral
2 alpha - Ionone Extra
24 Ethylene Brassylate
57 Benzyl Acetate Nat.
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Irisone
5 Citronellol Prime
3 Citronica
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Floral Aldehydic # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberfleur 1 Florantone T
46 Coumarine Chine 36 Geraniol 970
9 Vanilline .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 4 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
27 Musk R - 1 9 Laurine
2 Anthea Sandal Coeur 3 Nerol Petals
9 Benzyle Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Roseone 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
124 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .1 Tea Essence
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Eugenyl Acetate
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Parmanyl
4 Irotyl 6 C - 14 “ Peach “
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Aquanol 1 Petilyn
26 Eugenol / Clove 4 Fleuramone
5 Hidroxcitronelal .2 Geranyl Acetate
72 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar
18 Lilial
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
307 Di Propylene Glicol 1,000
3 Methyl Dianthanol
20 Tuberose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone
4 Lioral
2 Ionone Alpha 60
24 Galaxolide 50
57 Benzyl Acetate FCC
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
5 Citronellol 850
3 Undecatriene
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Floral Aldehydic # 1d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rionyl 1 Florantone T
42 Coumarine Chine 36 Geraniol Coeur
9 Vanillin .1 The
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 4 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A 6 Nutmeg Oil - West Indies
27 Musk R - 1 9 Laurine
2 Amber Sports 3 Nerol
9 Benzyle Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Rose Givco 217 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate .8 Roseardia Augustus 17
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Iso - Rose 1 Rose Oil - Morocco
128 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .1 Tea Essence
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 3 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Eugenyl Acetate
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Ionone
4 Irisone Bis 6 C - 14 “ Peach “
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Carnaline
3 Aquanol 1 Petilyn
24 Eugenol / Clove 3 Fleuramone
5 Hydroxy Citronellal Dma .2 Geranyl Acetate
71 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
18 Lilial
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1,000
3 Methyl Dianthanol
21 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone
4 Lioral
2 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
24 Musc 50 in DPG
59 Benzylacetate
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
5 Citronellol Prime
3 Undecatriene
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Floral Aldehydic # 1e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Substitute 1 Florantone T

44 Rhodiascent 36 Geraniol
9 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .1 The
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 4 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Powder 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
29 Musk R - 1 9 Laurine
2 Amberfleur 3 Nerol
9 Benzyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Rose Crystals 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
120 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .1 Tea Essence
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
5 Myraldyl Acetate 2 Eugenyl Acetate
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Parmanyl
4 Irotyl 6 C - 14 “ Peach “
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Iso Eugenol
3 Aquanol 1 Petilyn
24 Eugenol / Clove 4 Fleuramone
8 Hidroxcitronelal .2 Geranyl Acetate
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Vamba
16 Lilial
4 Phenylethylalcohol
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1,000
4 Dianthanol
21 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone
4 Lioral
1 y - Irone
25 Musk T “Ethylene Brassylate”
57 Benzyl Acetate Pure
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
5 Citronellol Prime
2 Undecatriene
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Floral Aldehydic # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Iso E Super 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur

5 Ambrox DL 3 Citronellol Natural
3 Rose Crystals 9 Orange Blossom Base
12 Sandela .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Rose Acetate
7 Vanilys - Pfw 3 Ionone Alpha
49 Musk 50 DPG 9 Wardia Substitute
3 Amborate 6 Cassis Bourgenons
8 Galaxolide 50 .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Ethyl Vanillin 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
2 Beta Damascone 4 Bourgenal
51 Benzyl Acetate 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Sandiff 2 Cananga Odorata
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 5 Hydroxyciol
26 Eugenol / Clove .1 Undecavertol
1 Iso Jasmone 3 Wardia
5 Cyclogalbaniff 25 Linalol S 97
6 Lilial 4 Neroli - Comores Island
3 Myraldyl Acetate 6 Myraldyl Acetate
9 Rose Substitute 3 Jasilyn
5 Hedione 2 Phyllos
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Orange Oil Florida ( Cold Pressed )
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Hedione
310 Di Propileno Glico 1,000
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 100 %
90 Ionone Intermediate Base
8 Laurine Extra
1 Iso Rose
.1 Alcohol C - 9
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil

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Floral Aldehydic # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Kephalis 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur

5 Ambrox DL 3 Citronellol Natural
3 Rose Crystals 9 Orange Blossom Base
12 Sandela .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Rose Acetate
7 Vanila Tincture 20 % 3 Ionone Alpha
49 Musk 50 DPG 9 Wardia Substitute
3 Amborate 6 Cassis Bourgenons
8 Galaxolide 50 .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Ethyl Vanillin 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
1 Alpha Damascone 4 Bourgenal
51 Benzyl Acetate 1 Neroli Artessence
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Rhodiantal 2 Cananga Odorata
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 9 Hydroxyciol
26 Eugenol / Clove .1 Undecavertol
1 Iso Jasmone 3 Wardia
5 Galbanum Resinoid 25 Linalol S 97
6 Lioral 4 Neroli - Comores Island
3 Myraldyl Acetate 6 Myraldyl Acetate
10 Rose Substitute 3 Jasilyn
5 Hedione 2 Phyllos
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 8 Orange Oil Florida ( Cold Pressed )
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
310 Di Propileno Glico 1,000
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citronelle
75 Ionone Intermediate Base
18 Laurine Extra
1 Iso Rose
.1 Alcohol C - 9
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Iso E Super 38 Linalyl Acetate

5 Ambrox DL 3 Citronellol Natural
3 Rose Crystals 9 Orange Blossom Base
12 Sandalwood Givaudan 53 .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Rose Acetate
7 Vanilys - Pfw 3 Ionone Alpha
49 Musk 50 DPG 9 Wardia Substitute
3 Amborate 6 Cassis Bourgenons
8 Galaxolide 50 .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Ethyl Vanillin 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
2 Beta Damascone 4 Cassis Fragrance
51 Benzyl Acetate 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Rose Crystals 2 Cananga Odorata
121 Hydroxycitronellal 5 Nectaryl
26 Eugenol / Clove .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
1 Iso Jasmone 3 Wardia
5 Cyclogalbaniff 25 Linalol 99 %
6 Lyral 4 Neroli - Comores Island
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 6 Myraldyl Acetate
9 Rose Substitute 3 Irisone Bis
5 Hedione 2 Phyllos
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Orange Oil Florida ( Cold Pressed )
6 Jacinthaflor
2 Benzylacetate
300 Di Propileno Glico 1,000
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 100 %
80 Ionone Intermediate Base
8 Laurine
1 Honey Rose Givco 219
.1 Alcohol C - 9
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 2d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Koavonne 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol

5 Ambrox DL 7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
3 Rose Crystals 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur
12 Sandela 3 Citronellol Natural
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Orange Blossom Base
7 Vanilys - Pfw .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
49 Musk 50 DPG 1 Rose Acetate
3 Amber Core 3 Ionone Alpha
8 Galaxolide 50 9 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl Vanillin 6 Cassis Bourgenons
2 Beta Damascone .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
11 Jasmin Province Base 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Bourgenal
3 Rose Crystals 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
26 Eugenol / Clove 2 Cananga Odorata
1 Iso Jasmone 5 Hydroxyciol
5 Cyclogalbaniff .1 Undecavertol
40 Acetato Benzila 3 Wardia
6 Lilial 25 Linalol S 97
3 Myraldyl Acetate 4 Neroli - Comores Island
9 Rose Substitute 6 Myraldyl Acetate
5 Hedione 3 Jasilyn
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Phyllos
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3 5 Orange Oil Orpur - Givaudan
2 Hedione
310 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA 1,000
38 Geraniol 100 %
90 Ionone Intermediate Base
1 Iso - Eugenol
8 Laurine Extra
1 Iso Rose
.1 Alcohol C - 9
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 2e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

16 Iso & Super 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur

5 Amber Core - KAO Corp. - Japan 3 Citronellol Natural
3 Rose Crystals 9 Orange Blossom Base
12 Santalex T Neat .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Rose Acetate
7 Vanilys - Pfw 3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
49 Musk 50 DPG 7 Wardia Substitute
3 Amborate 6 Cassis Bourgenons
8 Galaxolide 50 .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Ethyl Vanillin 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
2 Beta Damascone 4 Bourgenal
51 Benzylacetate 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Roseone 2 Cananga Odorata
111 Hydroxycitronellal 5 Lioral - Flexitrail
26 Eugenol / Clove .1 Violiff
1 Iso Jasmone 3 Wardia
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 25 Linalol S 97
6 Lilial 4 Neroli - Comores Island
3 Myraldyl Acetate 6 Myraldyl Acetate
9 Rose Substitute 3 Jasilyn
5 Hedione 2 Iso Rose
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Orange Oil of California
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Hedione
310 Di Propileno Glico 1,000
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 100 %
80 Ionone Intermediate Base
8 Laurine Extra
1 Iso Rose
.1 Alcohol C - 9
24 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Geranyl Acetate

67

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 24 Linalol

10 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Citronellol 850
48 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Nepalva
19 Traseolide 100 Base .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Woodynol II 4 Iso Raldeine 70
27 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilla Beans 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Cashmeran 20 Geraniol Pure
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
14 Hidroxicitronelal 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Nerol
2 Benzophenone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Ivyal 1 Floranton T
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Pomarose
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Ionone
5 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
62 Iso Raldeine Substitute 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
1 Beta Damascone 1 Iso Rose
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Farnesyl Acetate
8 Ionone Pure 35 Linalyl Acetate
16 Lioral .3 Cassis Oliffac
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Geranyl Acetate
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Musk 50 DPG

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Tincture 24 Linalol 98 %

7 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Citronellol 850 FCC
48 Coumane 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Woodynol I 4 Iso Raldeine 70
22 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilla Beans 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Cashmeran 20 Geraniol
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
14 Lyral 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 18
6 Vanilys .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nerol
2 Benzophenone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Irisone - Mixed Isomers 1 Floranton T
5 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
129 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Florymoss
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Ionone
5 Caraway Oil - Holland 1 Tuberose Oliffac
64 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
1 Beta Damascone 1 Iso Rose
2 Vanillyl Alcohol 1 Farnesyl Acetate
9 Ionone Pure 35 Linalyl Acetate
17 Lioral .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Nerolin Crystals
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Musk 50 DPG

69

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 24 Linalol

10 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Citronellol 850
48 Coumarin Substitute 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Nepalva
19 Macrolide - Symrise .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Anthea Sandal Coeur 4 Iso Raldeine 70
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilla Beans 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Cashmeran 20 Geraniol Pure
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Nerol
1 Benzophenone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Ivyal 1 Floranton T
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Pomarose
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Ionone
5 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
62 Iso Raldeine Substitute 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
1 Beta Damascone 1 Iso Rose
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Farnesyl Acetate
8 Iridales 35 Linalyl Acetate
16 Lioral .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Nerol
.1 Polarose 1,000
28 Ethylene Brassylate

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 3d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 24 Linalol

10 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Citronellol 850
48 Coumarin Substitute 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Nepalva
19 Musk Gazalle .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Brahmanol - H & R ( Symrise ) 4 Iso Raldeine 70
27 Benzylsalicylate .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanillin 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
4 Cashmeran 20 Geraniol Pure
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 2 Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Nerol
1 Benzophenone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Ivyal 1 Floranton T
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Pomarose
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 y - Irone
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
62 Iso Raldeine Substitute 7 Geranyl Acetate nat.
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
1 Alpha Damascone 1 Iso Rose
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Farnesyl Acetate
8 Irisone 35 Linalyl Acetate
16 Cyclosia Base - Firmenich .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Nerol
.1 Polarose 1,000
28 Ethylene Brassylate

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 3e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 3 B 24 Linalol

10 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Citronellol 850
45 Coumarin Crystals Pure 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Nepalva
19 Macrolide - Symrise .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Anthea Sandal Coeur 4 y - Irone
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilla Beans 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Muskylein 20 Geraniol Pure
3 Floramat 1 Ylang Givco 225
18 Hydroxy Citronellal 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol ( Carnation )
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Nerol
1 Benteine 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Ivyal 1 Floranton T
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Balinol
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 Benzyl Acetate Pure 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Ionone
4 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
62 Iso Raldeine Substitute 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
1 Beta Damascone 1 Iso Rose
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
8 Iridales 35 Linalyl Acetate
13 Lioral .3 Bois Amberene Forte
314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Iso Rose
.1 Polarose 1,000
28 Ethylene Brassylate

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Kephalis 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

49 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 1 Synabran
1 Civet Tincture 9 Orange Blossom Base
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 15 Wardia
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 3 Apple Blossom
6 Kephalis 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
7 Vanisal - Flexitrail 2 Iris Beurre Oil
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Thymol Crystals .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Lilial 1 Tuberose Oliffac
17 Tonlaid II - Pfw 1 Meranol
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Cassis Fragrance B
5 Jasmoneige 2 Petilyn
7 Vanillinethyl .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Methyl Benzoate 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Folrosa Q 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
119 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Nutmeg Indonesia
3 Citronellol .1 Leaf Alcohol
28 Eugenol 1 Iso - Eugenol
7 Mallow 1 Bourgenal
.1 Alcohol C - 9 18 Linalyl Acetate
22 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
89 Ionone Intremediate Base
20 Geraniol 970 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Ionone Alpha 60
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Boisnal
5 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique
.7 Poirinate
4 Anisic Aldehyde Di Methyl Acetal
.1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Kephalis 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

49 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 1 Syringa
1 Civet Tincture 9 Orange Blossom Base
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 15 Wardia
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 3 Apple Blossom
4 Amberfleur 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
7 Vanillin 2 Iris Beurre Oil
2 Heliotropine 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
79 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Thymol Crystals .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Lilial 1 Tuberose Oliffac
17 Musk Ambrette Substitute 1 Meranol
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Bourgeons De Cassis
5 Jasmoneige 2 Petilyn
7 Vanillinethyl .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Methyl Benzoate 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Folrosa Q 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
121 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Nutmeg Indonesia
3 Citronellol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Carnation Base 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Mallow 1 Bourgenal
.1 Alcohol C - 9 18 Linalyl Acetate
21 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
89 Ionone Intremediate Base
20 Geraniol 970 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Boisnal
5 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique
.7 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
4 Anisic Aldehyde Di Methyl Acetal
.1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Kephalis 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

49 Rhodiascent - Rhodia 1 Synabran
1 Civet Tincture 9 Orange Blossom Base
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 11 Wardia
37 Galbanolide ( Musk ) 3 Apple Juice Givco 114
6 Kephalis 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
7 Vanisal - Flexitrail 2 Iris Beurre Oil
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Heliotropine .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Lilial 1 Tuberose Oliffac
17 Musk 50 in DPG 1 Meranol
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Cassis Fragrance B
5 Jasmoneige 2 Petilyn
7 Vanillinethyl .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Methyl Benzoate 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Folrosa Q 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
119 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 4 Nutmeg Indonesia
3 Citronellol .1 Leaf Alcohol
28 Eugenol / Clove 1 Iso - Eugenol
7 Mallow 1 Bourgenal
.1 Alcohol C - 9 17 Linalyl Acetate
22 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
89 Ionone Intremediate Base
20 Geraniol 60 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Ionone Alpha 60
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Boisnal
5 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol S 97
.7 Poirinate
4 Aubepine
.1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 4d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Sandalore 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

49 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
1 Civet Tincture 9 Orange Blossom Base
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 15 Wardia
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 3 Apple Blossom
6 Kephalis 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
7 Vanisal 2 Iris Beurre Oil
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Thymol Crystals .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Lilial 1 Tuberose Oliffac
17 Tonlaid I - Pfw 1 Meranol
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Cassis Fragrance B
5 Iso Jasmone 2 Parmanyl
7 Vanillinethyl .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Methyl Benzoate 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Meijiff - IFF 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
122 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Nutmeg Indonesia
3 Citronellol 850 FCC .1 Leaf Alcohol
28 Eugenol 1 Para Cresyl Acetate
7 Troenan 1 Bourgenal
.1 Alcohol C - 9 17 Linalyl Acetate
22 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
75 Ionone Intremediate Base
20 Geraniol 970 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Ionone Alpha 60
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Boisnal
5 Hydroxycitronellol A
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique
.7 Poirinate
4 Anisic Aldehyde Di Methyl Acetal
.1 Folione

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 4e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Kephalis 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

48 Helional 1 Petilyn
1 Civet Tincture 9 Orange Blossom Base
32 ( DEP ) 15 Wardia
37 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Apple Blossom
6 Kephalis 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
7 Vanisal - Flexitrail 2 Iris Beurre Oil
2 Acetate Iso Eugenol 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
75 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Thymol Crystals .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Lilial 1 Tuberose Oliffac
15 Tonlaid II - Pfw 1 Meranol
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Cassis Fragrance B
5 Jasmoneige 2 Hysimal
7 Vanillinethyl .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
4 Methyl Benzoate 10 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Folrosa Q 3 Iso Amyl Gerenate
122 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Isoeugenol
3 Citronellol Pure .1 Leaf Alcohol
28 Eugenol 1 Iso - Eugenol
7 Mallow 1 Bois Amberene Forte
.1 Alcohol C - 10 18 Linalyl Acetate
20 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
86 Ionone Intremediate Base
20 Geraniol 970 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Jasmylone 99
12 alpha - Ionone
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Boisnal
5 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique
.7 Poirinate
4 Hawthorn
.1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate Substitute

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzylbenzoate 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Sandalwood Oliffac 7 Orange Flor Deco
.1 Civette Givco 77 .2 Alcohol C - 9
4 Heliotropine 6 Cassis Fragrance F
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG .1 Geraniol 600
5 Woodynol I 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
9 Vanisal 2 Eugenyl Acetate
.1 Polarose 3 Kir Base # 9741
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 15 Tuberose Substitute
11 Benteine 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
3 Petilyn 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
62 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 3 Iridales
107 Muguet Base 10 Orange Blossom Base
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Wardia
25 Geraniol 60 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
8 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
1 Rosone .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Nerol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 5 Iritone V
21 Eugenol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Di Methyl Octanol 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
4 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Florymoss
1 Oxide De Rosa 24 Linalyl Acetate
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1,000
13 Citronellol
1 Iso Jasmone
33 Linalol S 97
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Floral

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Osyrol 7 Orange Flor Deco
.1 Civet Abs. .2 Alcohol C - 9
4 Heliotropine 6 Cassis Fragrance F
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG .1 Geraniol 600
5 Woodynol II 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
9 Vanillin 2 Eugenyl Acetate
.1 Polarose 3 Kir Base # 9741
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 17 Tuberose Substitute
11 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 1 Iris Beure Oil
3 Ivyal 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
62 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 3 Iridales
107 Muguet Base 10 Orange Blossom Base
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Wardia
25 Geraniol 60 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
8 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
1 Rosone .4 Alcohol C - 10
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Nerol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Iritone V
21 Eugenol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Di Methyl Octanol 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
4 Hidroxicitronelol .1 Florymoss
1 Oxide De Rosa 24 Linalyl Acetate
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 y - Irone
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1,000
13 Citronellol 850
1 Iso Jasmone
33 Linalol S 97
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Mallow

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Sandec Givco 7 Orange Flor Deco
.1 Civette Givco 77 .2 Alcohol C - 9
5 Heliotropine 6 Cassis Fragrance F
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
53 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Geraniol 600
6 Sandalore 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
9 Vanilline 2 Eugenyl Acetate
.1 Polarose 3 Vert de Cassis Givco
21 Benzyl Salicylate 15 Tuberose Substitute
10 Hedione 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
3 Petilyn 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
62 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 3 Iridales
107 Muguet Base 10 Orange Blossom Base
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Wardia
25 Geraniol 60 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
8 Meijiff 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
1 Rosone .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Nerol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 5 Iritone V
21 Eugenol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
4 Hidroxicitronelol .1 Florymoss
1 Iso Rose 24 Linalyl Acetate
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1,000
13 Citronellol Pure
1 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Linalol S 97
5 Mugone S 207 M
3 Lily Aldehyde

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 5d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

6 Amyris Oil - West Indian Sandal 7 Orange Flor Deco
.1 Civette Givco 73 .2 Alcohol C - 9
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Bourgenal
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 Sandalwood - New Caledonia .1 Geraniol 600
9 Vanisal 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
.1 Polarose 2 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 3 Kir Base # 9741
11 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate - Pfw 15 Tuberose Substitute
3 Petilyn 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
62 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
109 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Iso Raldeine 70
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
23 Geraniol 60 4 Wardia
9 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
1 Rosone 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
83 Ionone Intermediate Base .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 4 Nerol
21 Eugenol 5 Irisone Bis
6 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
4 Hidroxicitronelal 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
1 Oxide De Rosa .1 Meranol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 26 Linalyl Acetate
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Pomarose
5 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol 850 - ( BBA ) or IFF 1,000
1 Iso Jasmone
33 Linalool
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Fleuramone

81

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 5e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzylbenzoate 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Sandalwood Oliffac 7 Orange Flor Deco
.1 Civette Givco 77 .2 Alcohol C - 10
4 Heliotropine 6 Cassis Fragrance
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG .1 Geraniol 600
5 Woodynol I 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
9 Vanisal 2 Eugenyl Acetate
.1 Polarose 3 Kir Base # 9741
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 15 Tuberose Substitute
11 Benteine 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
3 Mallow 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
62 Benzylacetate 3 Iridales
112 Muguet Base 10 Orange Blossom Base
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Wardia
25 Geraniol 99 % 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
8 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Para Cresyl Acetate
1 Rosone .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Nerol
4 Lioral - Flextrail 5 Iris Beurre Oil
21 Eugenol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Di Methyl Octanol 3 Terpineol Prime
4 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Florymoss
1 Oxide De Rosa 24 Linalyl Acetate
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
309 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Vanilla Resinoid 1,000
13 Citronellol - L
1 Iso Jasmone
33 Linalol S 97
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Petilyn

82

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 6a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

7 Vanillin 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
48 Coumane 26 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 1 Ribes Mercaptan
8 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Y samber K 34 Linalool Nat.
23 Hydroxycitronellal A .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Muskylein 4 Geranium Oil pure
52 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Cassifix
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Damascenonel
4 Sandela 5 Aldeido Muguet
108 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .3 Wardia
6 Alicate 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
2 Heliotropine 3 Iso E Super
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Scennal
5 Vanillinethyl 27 Linalyl Acetate
14 Hedione 5 Nerol
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
1 Iso Mohaganol 3 Hydrofix R
3 y - Irone
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Jasmone
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 9

83

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 6b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Nepalva 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

6 Vanilline 3 Orange Oil Sweet
48 Coumane 25 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 1 Ribes Mercaptan
8 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur 34 Linalool Nat.
23 Hydroxycitronellal .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Muskylein 4 Geranium Oil pure
52 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Cassifix
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Damascenonel
4 Sandela 5 Aldeido Muguet
109 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .3 Rose Bulgarian Distilled Extra
6 Coumarin Crystals 2 Carnaline
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Iso E Super
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Scennal
5 Vanillinethyl 27 Linalyl Acetate
12 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Nerol
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugneol
1 Iso Mohaganol 3 Hydrofix R
3 y - Irone
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Iso Jasmon
3 Geranyl Acetate
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
16 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Rose Turkey Abs.
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 9

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 6c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
49 Coumane 26 Geraniol 98 %
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 1 Ribes Mercaptan
7 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Chandanone 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
23 Hydroxycitronellal A .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Muskylein 4 Geranium Oil pure
54 Benzyl Acetate 2 Cassifix
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Damascenonel
4 Amyris Oil ( Sandalwood ) Fine 5 Aldeido Muguet
108 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .3 Wardia
4 Alicate 1 Caraway Oil Bourbon
2 Heliotropine 3 Iso E Super
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Scennal
5 Vanillinethyl 27 Linalyl Acetate
14 Hedione 5 Nerol
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
1 Iso Mohaganol 3 Hydrofix L
3 y - Irone
4 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 9

85

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 6d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

7 Vanillin 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
46 Coumane 26 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 1 Ribes Mercaptan
10 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 34 Linalool
23 Lilial .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Rose Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Musk R - 1 4 Geranium Oil pure
52 Acetato Benzila 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Damascenonel
4 Sandela 5 Aldeido Muguet
105 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .3 Acetate De Geranyle
6 Alicate 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
3 Heliotropine 3 Iso E Super
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Rose Turquie
5 Vanillinethyl 27 Linalyl Acetate
13 Hedione 5 Nerol
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
93 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
1 Santalyl Acetate 3 Hydrofix R
3 Iso Raldeine 70
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Scennal
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
3 Myraldyl Acetate
.1 Top Rose ABQ 5644

86

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 6e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

7 Vanillin 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
41 Coumane 28 Geraniol 60
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
39 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Ribes Mercaptan
8 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Amber Core - Kao Corp. Japan 34 Linalool Nat.
23 Hydroxycial .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Muskylein 4 Geranium Oil pure
52 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Cassifix
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Alpha Damascone
4 Amyris 7 Lioral
112 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .2 Rose Essence Abs.
6 Alicate 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
2 Heliotropine 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
18 Muskylein 1 Scennal
5 Vanillinethyl 29 Linalyl Acetate
14 Hedione 5 Nerol
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
1 Sandiff 3 Hydrofix R
3 y - Irone
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol from Citronela
1 Jasmal
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
3 Kephalis
.1 Alcohol C - 9

87

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 7a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilys .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

4 Musk 50 ( DEP ) .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
9 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Florantone T
.1 Civet Augustus 19 30 Geraniol, Perfumery Grade
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 29 Linalool
19 Benzyle Salicylate 8 Orange Blossom Base
17 Osyrol .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
5 Musk Clear 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 1 Iso Jasmone
4 Heliotropine .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
69 Benzylacetate 2 Nerol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Cassis Fragrance B
7 MDJ Super .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Vanillinethyl 3 Thesaron
.1 Alcohol C - 09 6 Orangeflor
126 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Verotyl
12 Santalox T Neat 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Cashmeran 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Kir Base # 9741
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 36 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rosone
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
2 Magnol
319 ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol
6 Pomarose
6 Lyral
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
3 Neroli Egypt

88

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilys .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

4 Musk Emeressence .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
9 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Florantone T
.1 Civet Augustus 17 30 Geraniol, Perfumery Grade
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 29 Linalol
19 Benzyle Salicylate 8 Orange Blossom Base
17 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
5 Musk Clear 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
4 Heliotropine .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Linalool
69 Benzylacetate 2 Nerol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Cassis Fragrance B
7 Claigeon .1 Leaf Alcohol
21 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
4 Vanillinethyl 6 Orangeflor
.1 Alcohol C - 09 1 Verotyl
126 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Bois Amberene Forte
12 Santalox T Neat 3 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Cashmeran 2 Kir Base # 9741
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 36 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rose Crystals
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
2 Magnol
319 ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol Ex Citriodora
6 Pomarose
4 Lyrame
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
3 Neroli Egypt

89

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 7c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilys .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

4 Musk Ambrette Substitute .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
9 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Florantone T
.1 Civet Augustus 17 30 Geraniol, Perfumery Grade
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 29 Linalol
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 8 Orange Blossom Base
17 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
5 Musk Clear 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
4 Heliotropine .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Linalool
69 Benzylacetate 2 Nerol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Cassis Fragrance B
7 Claigeon .1 Leaf Alcohol
21 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
4 Vanillinethyl 6 Orangeflor
.2 Alcohol C - 09 1 Verotyl
130 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Bois Amberene Forte
12 Santalox T Neat 3 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Cashmeran 2 Kir Base # 9741
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 36 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rose Crystals
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
2 Magnol
315 ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol Ex Citriodora
6 Pomarose
4 Lyrame
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
3 Neroli Oliffac

90

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 7d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilys .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

8 Cashmeran .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
9 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Florantone T
.1 Civet Ethiopia 34 Geraniol, Perfumery Grade
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 31 Linalool
19 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 8 Orange Blossom Base
17 Osyrol .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
5 Musk Clear 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 1 Iso Jasmone
5 Heliotropine .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
67 Benzylacetate 2 Nerol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Cassis Fragrance B
7 Benteine .1 Leaf Acetal
4 Vanillinethyl 3 Thesaron
.1 Alcohol C - 09 6 Orangeflor
126 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Verotyl
8 Brahmanol F 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Serenolide 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Kir Base # 9741
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 36 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rosone
25 Eugenol
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
2 Magnol
319 ( DPG )
3 Tonalid II - Pfw
7 Citronellol Nat.
6 Pomarose
3 Lyral
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
4 Melonyl 86471 VMF
5 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
3 Neroli Artessence - Biolandes - Fr.

91

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 7e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Vanilys .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

4 Musk 50 ( DEP ) .1 Rose Turca Assoluta
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Florantone T
.1 Civet Augustus 19 32 Geraniol, Perfumery Grade
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 29 Linalool
19 Benzyle Salicylate 7 Orange Blossom Base
17 Osyrol .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
5 Musk Clear 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 1 Iso Jasmone
2 Nerolin ( Yara Yara Crystals ) .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
69 Benzylacetate 2 Nerol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Cassis Fragrance B
7 MDJ .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Thesaron
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orangeflor
125 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
12 Santalox T Neat 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Cashmeran 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Kir Base # 9741
77 Ionone Intermediate Base 38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rosone
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
2 Magnol
319 ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol
6 Iso Rose
4 Lyral
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
1 Nerolidol

92

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 8a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Galaxolide Artessence 3 Troenan
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 18 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Civet Tincture .1 Ylang Core
32 DEP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 5 Cassis Fragrance
5 Iris Beurre Oil .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 25 Linalyl Acetate
9 Vanilys .3 Tubereuse 181
2 Cashmeran 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Jasmon Oil M/F 6 Lyral
9 MDJ 1 Wardia
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geraniol 600
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 Pearalate
107 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Acetate de Neryle
6 Citronellol 70 %
3 Di Hydro Coumarex
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 1,000
36 Geraniol Savon
27 Eugenol / Clove
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Musk Emeressence
1 Carnaline
4 Iso Raldeine 85
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol Pur

93

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 8b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 2 Lilivert
1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Galaxolide Artessence 3 Troenan
1 Amberfleur 18 Orange Blossom Base
.2 Civet Tincture .1 Petilyn
32 DEP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 5 Cassis Fragrance
5 Ionone Alpha Refined .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 25 Linalyl Acetate
9 Vanillin .3 Tubereuse 181
2 Muskylein 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Jasmon Oil P.G. - India 5 Lyral
9 MDJ 1 Wardia
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Abs.
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Perryfix ( Symrise ) Creaions, PB
117 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Neryl Acetate
6 Citronellol 70 %
3 Di Hydro Coumarex
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 1,000
36 Geraniol Extra
27 Iso Eugenol Replacement
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Musk Emeressence
1 Eugenyl Acetate
4 Iso Raldeine 85
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol Pur

94

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 8c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
3 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Galaxolide Artessence 3 Troenan
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 18 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Civet Givco 81 .1 Ylang Core
32 DEP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
31 Benzyl Acetate 5 Cassis Fragrance
5 Iris Beurre Oil .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 25 Linalyl Acetate
9 Vanilys .3 Tubereuse 181
2 Cashmeran 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Jasmon Oil M/F 5 Lyral
9 MDJ 1 Wardia
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geraniol 600
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
109 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Acetate de Neryle
6 Citronellol 70 %
3 Helional
9 Hydroxy Citronellol 1,000
36 Geraniol Pure
27 Carnation Base
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Musk Emeressence
1 Carnaline
4 Iso Raldeine 85
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol Pur

95

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 8d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 2 Ionone Alpha Refined

1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
55 Galaxolide Artessence 3 Troenan
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 18 Orange Blossom Base
.2 Civet Tincture .1 Ylang Core
32 DEP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 Meranol
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 1 Iso - Eugenol
5 Iris Beurre Oil 5 Cassis Fragrance
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
9 Vanilys 25 Linalyl Acetate
2 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Tubereuse 181
114 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
3 Jasmon Oil M/F 4 Geranyl Acetate
9 MDJ 6 Lyral
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Wardia
2 Methyl Benzoate .1 Geraniol 600
107 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Pearalate
6 Citronellol 70 % 2 Neryl Acetae
3 Di Hydro Coumarex
9 Hysimal
36 Geraniol 970 1,000
27 Eugenol / Clove
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Musk Emeressence
1 Cassia Oliffac
4 Iso Raldeine 70
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.1 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
32 Linalol Pur

96

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 8e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Galaxolide Artessence 3 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 18 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Civet Tincture .1 Ylang Core
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Heliotropine 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 5 Cassis Fragrance
5 Iris Beurre Oil .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 27 Linalyl Acetate
9 Vanilys .3 Tubereuse 181
2 Cashmeran 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 6 Lyrame
9 MDJ 1 Rose Givco 119
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geraniol 600
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Pearalate
107 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Geranyl Acetate
6 Citronellol 70 %
3 Di Hydro Coumarex
9 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal 1,000
36 Geraniol Savon
25 Eugenol / Clove
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
2 Nerol
.1 Musk Emeressence
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
4 Iso Raldeine 85
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol 99 %

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 9a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Artificial 1A 5 Wardia

10 Benzyl Benzoate 27 Trinalool
49 Galaxolide 50 DPG 14 Orange Blossom Base
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Citronet
5 Vanisal 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
11 Sandec Givco 15 Phenylethylalcohol
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
51 Coumane 4 Top Muguet
6 Iso & Super 2 Kir Base # 9741
4 Hydrofix R .4 Methyl Tuberate
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 1 Orange Flor
61 Benzylacetate 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
4 Florosia 2 Sensient
7 Osyrol 9 Linalyl Acetate Extra
5 Methyl Benzoate .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
94 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Florantone T
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Galbanum Absolue
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Geraniol 600
6 Lilivert 1 Florosia
3 Citronellol 850 - Bush Boake Allen 2 Bourgenal
1 Sandalore
9 Lyral
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base 1,000
7 Bonorax
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % )
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol Extra
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Rosealva
3 Orangeflor

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 9b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 5 Wardia

10 Benzyl Benzoate 27 Trinalool
47 Galaxolide 50 DPG 14 Orange Blossom Base
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Meranol
5 Vanillin 1 Tangerinol
11 Amyris Oil West Indies ( Sandal ) 15 Phenylethylalcohol
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 3 Geranyl Acetate FCC
51 Coumane 4 Top Muguet
6 Iso & Super 2 Kir Base # 9741
4 Hydrofix R .4 Methyl Tuberate
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 1 Orange Flor
51 Benzylacetate 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
4 Florosia 2 Sensient
7 Osyrol 10 Linalyl Acetate Extra
5 Methyl Benzoate .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
106 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Florantone T
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Galbanum Absolue
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Geraniol 600
6 Lilivert 1 Florosia
3 Citronellol Extra 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
1 Kephalis
9 Lyral
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base 1,000
7 Bonorax
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol 970
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol Pure
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Undecavertol
3 Orangeflor

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 9c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Artificial 1A 5 Wardia

10 Benzyl Benzoate 27 Ethyl Linalool
46 Muskylein 14 Orange Blossom Base
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 Citronet
5 Vanisal 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
11 Sandec Givco 15 Phenylethylalcohol
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
51 Coumane 4 Muguet Aldehyde
9 Iso & Super 2 Kir Base # 9741
4 Hydrofix L .4 Methyl Tuberate
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 1 Orange Flor
51 MDJ Super 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
4 Florosia 2 Sensient
7 Osyrol 9 Linalyl Acetate Extra
5 Methyl Benzoate .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
104 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Florantone T
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Galbanum Absolue
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Geraniol 600
6 Lilivert 1 Florosia
3 Citronellol 850 - Bush Boake Allen 3 Bourgenal
1 Sandalore
9 Lyral
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base 1,000
7 Bonorax
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % )
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol Extra
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Rosealva
3 Orangeflor

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 9d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Givco 83 5 Wardia

8 Benzyl Benzoate 27 Trinalool
47 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 14 Orange Blossom Base
38 ( DEP ) 3 Citronet
5 Vanillin 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
11 Sandec Givco 12 Phenylethylalcohol
23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
51 Coumane 5 Top Muguet
6 Iso & Super 3 Kir Base # 9741
4 Hydrofix R .2 Tuberose Oliffac
1 Acetate Iso Eugenol 1 Orange Flor
61 Benzylacetate 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
4 Florosia 3 Sensient
7 Osyrol 9 Linalyl Acetate Extra
5 Methyl Benzoate .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
94 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Florantone T
55 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Galbanum Absolue
.3 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Neryl Acetate
6 Lilivert 2 Fleuramone
3 Citronellol Pure 2 Bourgenal
1 Sandalore
9 Lyral
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base 1,000
7 Bonorax
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol 60
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg - Sri. Lanka
1 Geraniol Extra
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Rosealva
3 Orangeflor

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 9e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Artificial 1A 5 Wardia

10 Benzyl Benzoate 27 Trinalool
49 Galaxolide 50 DEP 14 Orange Blossom Base
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Citronet
5 Vanisal 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
11 Sandec Givco 15 Phenylethylalcohol
23 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
41 Coumane 4 Meijiff
6 Iso E Super 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
4 Hydrofix R .4 Methyl Tuberate
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 1 Orange Flor
61 Benzyl Acetate nat. 3 Palmarosa, India
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Iso Eugenol
4 Fleuramone 2 Sensient
7 Osyrol 9 Linalyl Acetate Extra
5 Methyl Benzoate .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
104 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Florantone T
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Galbanum Absolue
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Geraniol 600
6 Lilivert 1 Florosia
3 Citronellol 850 - Bush Boake Allen 3 Bourgenal
1 Sandalore
9 Laurine Extra
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base 1,000
7 Bonorax
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol BRI FCC
2 Thesaron
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Bisabolene
1 Geraniol Extra
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Polarose - Polarome
3 Orangeflor

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 10a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Substitute .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic

8 Musk T - Takasago 1 Nerol Petals
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Laurine Extra
50 Galaxolide 50 22 Linalool
8 Vanillin .5 Rose Otto Augaflor
7 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
9 Santalex T Neat 3 Neroli Oliffac
48 Benzyl Acetate Coeur - Quest Intl. 17 Geraniol Pure
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Blossom Base
1 Beta Damascone 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 6 Cassis Fragrance
103 Muguet Base .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 3 Neo - Geranium Oil
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
7 Methyl Benzoate 2 Iris odor
9 Hedione 17 Wardia
4 Citronellol 850 1 Pamplemousse E. Blanc
13 Lioral 38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Cashmeran 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
8 Benzylacetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Sandasweet 1 Rosilial
25 Rose for Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
10 Methyl Ionone 1 Mugetanol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Isobergamote
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev 1,000
3 Jasmone
77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Aldeido

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 10b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarin Substitute .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic

8 Musk T - Takasago 1 Nerol Petals
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Laurine Extra
47 Galaxolide 50 22 Linalol
8 Vanillin .5 Rhodinol - Natural Isolate
7 Hydroxyciol 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
9 Sandranol 3 Neroli Oliffac
45 Benzyl Acetate 17 Geraniol Pure
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Blossom Base
1 Beta Damascone 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 6 Cassis Fragrance
106 Hydroxycitronellol .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 3 Neo - Geranium Oil
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
7 Methyl Benzoate 2 Irisone Bis
9 Hedione 17 Wardia
4 Citronellol 850 1 Grapefruit Oil of Florida C.P.
13 Lilivert 38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Cashmeran 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
8 Benzylacetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Sandasweet 1 Rosilial
28 Rose for Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
13 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Muguet Alcohol - Symrise
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Verger de Bergamot - Italy
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Geranium Rose Givco 115 1,000
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Aldehyde

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 10c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarin Substitute .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic

8 Etilen Brassilato 1 Nerol
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Laurine Extra
45 Galaxolide 50 22 Linalool
8 Vanillin .5 Rose Otto Augaflor
7 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
9 Santalex T Neat 3 Neroli Oliffac
48 Benzyl Acetate 17 Geraniol 60
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Blossom Base
1 Beta Damascone 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 6 Cassis Fragrance
108 Muguet Base .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
7 Methyl Benzoate 2 Iritone V
12 Hedione 16 Wardia
4 Citronellol 850 1 Nootkatone 80/85 %
13 Lioral 38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Cashmeran 1 Tangerine Oil - Brazil
8 Benzyl Acetate FCC .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Endanol 1 Rosilial
25 Rose for Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
10 Methyl Ionone 1 Mugetanol
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Bergamot Oil Orpur - Givaudan
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev 1,000
3 Jasmal
77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Alcohol

105

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic # 10d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic

8 Cashmeran 1 Nerol Petals
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 Massoia Ecorce - India
4 Heliotropine 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Laurine Extra
50 Galaxolide 50 22 Linalol
8 Vanillin .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 7
7 Laurine 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
9 Santalex T Neat 3 Neroli Oliffac
48 Benzyl Acetate Coeur - Quest Intl. 17 Geraniol Pure
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Blossom Base
1 Beta Damascone 5 Geranyl Acetate
4 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 6 Cassis Fragrance
113 Hydroxycitronellal .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Neo - Geranium Oil
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
7 Methyl Benzoate 2 Irisone Bis
9 Hedione 19 Wardia
4 Citronellol 850 1 Pamplemousse E. Blanc
13 Mallow 38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Nepalva 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
8 Acetate Benzyle .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Sandasweet 1 Rosilial
25 Geraniol Prime .1 Leaf Alcohol
10 Methyl Ionone 1 Mugetanol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 2 Bergamot Oil FCC
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Eugenol
1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev 1,000
3 Jasmone
75 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Aldehyde

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral Aldehydic # 10e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Rhodiascent .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic

8 Musk Ambrette 1 Nerol Petals
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Laurine Extra
50 Galaxolide 50 22 Linalool
8 Vanillin .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 9
7 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
9 Santalex T Neat 3 Neroli Oliffac
48 Benzyl Acetate 19 Geraniol Pure
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
1 Beta Damascone 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Hawthorn ( Anisic Aldehyde ) 6 Cassis Fragrance
109 Muguet Base .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 3 Neo - Geranium Oil
4 Ethyl Vanillin 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
7 Methyl Benzoate 2 Iris odor
9 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 17 Wardia
4 Citronellol 80 % ( Geraniol 15 % 0 1 Grapefruit Oil Pink ( C.P. ) - Fla.
13 Lioral 38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Cashmeran 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
8 Benzylacetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Iso E Super 1 Rosilial
25 Rose for Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 1 Mugetanol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Isobergamote
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Geranium Rose Egyptian 1,000
3 Iso Jasmone
82 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Hydroxycitronellol

107

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Jasmin

Jasminum grandiflorum (Oleaceae) found in other flowers, e.g. garde- Cultivation and uses
Spanish jasmine nia. The main component of jas-
mine absolute is benzyl acetate (ca. Widely cultivated for its flowers,
Spanish jasmine originates in the 34 %), having a fruity-floral odour. jasmine is enjoyed in the garden, as
valleys of the lower Himalayas. It p-Cresol and indole contribute to a house plant, and as cut flowers.
was brought to Spain by the Moors the animal aspects of the jasmine The flowers are worn by women in
and was spread through the fragrance. their hair in southern and southeast
Mediterranean area during the 17'th Asia. The delicate jasmine flower
century. By extraction of the flow- About 200 species of jasmines are opens only at night and may be
ers, the so-called jasmine absolute known from tropical and subtropi- plucked in the morning when the
is obtained, one of perfumery's cal areas around the world. Most of tiny petals are tightly closed, then
most precious materials. Jasmine them are heavily scented, their fra- stored in a cool place until night.
absolute is a brownish paste with an grance varying around the common The petals begin to open between
intensely floral, warm, rich and jasmine theme. Arabian jasmine, J. six and eight in the evening, as the
highly diffusive odor. Minimal sambac, also called 'Maid of temperature lowers.
amounts create wonders in per- Orleans', Pikake (on Hawaii) or Tea
fumes of exotic-floral character. It jasmine, is characterized by a diffu- Jasmine tea
takes about 8000 freshly picked sive, green-herbaceous nuance
flowers to make 1 g of absolute. from derivatives of 3-hexen-1-ol . Jasmine tea is consumed in China,
Egypt is the main producer, but where it is called jasmine-flower
demand is lowering. In recent years Jasmine (Jasminum /; via Arabic tea ( pinyin: mò lì hua- chá).
reconstructed oils have been avail- from the Persian Yasameen, i.e. Jasminum sambac flowers are also
able, almost identical with the natu- "gift from God") is a genus of used to make so-called jasmine tea,
ral product, but at a much lower shrubs and vines in the olive family which often has a base of green tea,
prize. (Oleaceae), with about 200 species, but sometimes an Oolong base is
native to tropical and warm temper- used. Flowers and tea are "mated"
The fragrance of jasmine is charac- ate regions of the Old World. The in machines that control tempera-
terized by 'jasmonoid' compounds, leaves can be either evergreen ture and humidity. It takes four
whose biosynthesis from unsaturat- (green all year round) or deciduous hours or so for the tea to absorb the
ed fatty acids probably follows the (falling in autumn). fragrance and flavour of the jas-
same routes as the biosynthesis of mine blossoms, and for the highest
prostaglandins in us. They are also grades, this process may be repeat-

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

ed as many as seven times. Because especially in the island of Java.

the tea has absorbed moisture from
the flowers, it must be refired to
prevent spoilage. The spent flowers
may or may not be removed from
the final product, as the flowers are
completely dry and contain no
aroma. Giant fans are used to blow
away and remove the petals from
the denser tea leaves. If present,
they simply add visual appeal and
are no indication of the quality of
the tea.
In Pakistan, where Jasminum offic-
inale is known as the "Chambeli" or
"Yasmin" is the national flower.
In the Philippines, Jasminum sam-
bac is the national flower. Adopted
in 1935, it is known as
"Sampaguita" in the islands, and is
usually strung in garlands which
are then used to adorn religious
images.

Jasmine essential oil In Hawaii, Jasminum sambac is

called "Pikake" and is perhaps the
Jasmine essential oil is in common most popular of flowers. It is often
use. Its flowers are either extracted strung in leis and is the subject of
by the labour-intensive method of many songs.
enfleurage or through chemical
extraction. It is expensive due to In Tunisia, it's the national flower
the large number of flowers needed
to produce a small amount of oil. As a weed
The flowers have to be gathered at
night because the odour of jasmine Jasminum fluminense, which is
is more powerful after dark. The sometimes known by the inaccurate
flowers are laid out on cotton cloths name "Brazilian Jasmine", is an
soaked in olive oil for several days invasive species in Hawaii and
and then extracted leaving the true Florida. J. dichotomum, also called
jasmine essence. Some of the coun- Gold Coast Jasmine, is also an
tries producing jasmine essential invasive weed in Florida.
oil are India, Egypt, China and
Morocco.

Jasmine as the national flower

* In Indonesia, where the variety

Jasminum sambac is the "puspa
bangsa" (national flower) adopted
in 1990. It goes by the name
"Melati Putih" and is the most
important flower in wedding cere-
monies for ethnic Indonesians,

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BOOK # 1 ( A - H )
A & E Connock Ltd. - U.K.
Aromatic Waters
Jasmine
A. Fakhry & Company - Egypt
Jasminum Grandiflorum
Jasmine Organic
Jasminum Grandiflorum
c,a,w Jasmine
Jasminum Grandiflorum
Jasmine “Special”
Jasminum Grandiflorum
Jasmine ( Benzol )
A.N.E.C. - France
Jasmin
Adrian Industries - France
Benzyl Acetate
Albert Vieille SA - France
Jasmine Abs. - Egypt, India
Jasmine Abs. Sambac - India
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
Glen O. Brechbill
Jasmin Fragrance Chemicals
Alfa Chem - USA Aromatic International LLC - USA
Jasmin Abs. - Various sources Jasmin
Jasmin Concrete - Various sources Aromatics Adl - France
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Acetate Benzyle 99 %
Benzyl Acetate Artiste Flavor / Essence - USA
Amen Organics - India Jasmine Oil
Jasmine Oil Astral Extracts - USA
Jasmine Oil Pg
Jasmine Sambac Jasmin Absolute ( Grandiflorum )
Jasmin Absolute ( Sambak )
American Society of Perfumers
Augustus Oils Ltd. - U.K.
Jasmin Abs.
Jasmin Abs.
AROMATIC MATERIALS
Axxence SARL - France
Benzyl Acetate
Jasmin Sambac Concrete
Anupan Industries - India
Bansal Aroma - India
Benzyl Acetate FCC
Jasmine Oil
Aromatic Collection - France
Bedoukian Research, Inc. - USA
Jasmin Egyptian
Di Hydro Iso Jasmone
110
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Berje Inc. - USA China Perfumer - China Creative Fragrances Ltd. - USA

Jasmine Absolute Jasmine Abs. Egypt Jasmin Absolute Maroc - Morocco

Jasmine Abs. India
AROMA CHEMICALS Jasminum Sambac Abs. Destilerias Munoz Galvez - Spain

Benzyl Acetate Firmenich SA Dist - FD Copeland & Sons

Biolandes Parfumerie - France Jasmolactone Jasmin Egyptian Abs.

Jasmophore Jasmin Moroccan Abs.
Jasmine Absolute Givaudan SA
Jasmine India Absolute Diffusions Aromatiques - France
Jasmin Etoile Givco 144
Jasmine Concrete Jasmone CIS Produit De Synthese

Bordas Destilaciones SA - Spain Quest Intl. Acetate De Benzyle

Benzyl Acetate Benzyl Acetate Super Cepionate

Brighten Colorchem - The Neth. MDJ Eramex Aromatics - Germany

Benzyl Acetate F.C.C. Zeon Corp. Jasmin Absolute / Concrete

Egyptian
Buckton Page Ltd. - U.K. Jsminlactone Jasmin Sambac Absolute /
Jasmoneige Concrete
Jasmin Concrete
Guinea Hexane Chinessence Ltd. - China AROMA CHEMICAL NATURAL

Carrubba Inc. - USA Benzyl Acetate cis - Jasmone

dihydro - Jasmone
Jasmine Extract Citral Oleos Essenciais - Brazil iso - Jasmone

Central States Chemical - USA Acetato Benzila Esencias y Materiales - Mexico

Acetato Di Methyl Benzil Carbinol
Jasmine Abs. - Egypt Acetato Bencilo
Hedione
Champon Vanilla, Inc. - USA Hedione
Clos D’Aguzon - France
Benzyl Acetate
Jasmin Abs. / Concrete
China Aroma Chemical Co. - China
Cosmark - Australia
Jasmine Abs.
Jasmine Concrete Benzyl Acetate

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Essencia, Aetherische Oele - Switz. Flavodor - The Netherlands Jasmin AB13

Jasmin AB410
Jasmin Absolue Egypte Jasmin Absolute Jasmopyrane
Jasminum Grandiflorum Jasmopyrane Forte
Fleurchem, Inc. - USA
MATIERES PREMIERES AROMATIQUES Global Essence Ltd - U.K.
Benzyl Acetate
Acetate De Benzyle Jasamansi Oil
Flexitral, Inc. - USA Jasmine Absolute / Concrete
Euma - Argentina
Jasphene AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Jazmin Absoluto
Frencharoma Imports Co., - USA Benzyl Acetate
FD Copland & Sons Ltd. - UK
Benzyl Acetate Good Scents Company - USA
Jasmin Egyptian Abs.
Jasmin Moroccan Abs. Frey - Lau GmbH - Germany Jasmin Oil Italy

Fayyum Gharbya Aromatic - Egypt Jasmine Absolute Jasmin Absolute Chassis

Jasmin Concrete Absolute
Jasmine Abs. Givaudan Fragrance Corp. - Switz. Jasmin Pommade Absolute
Jasminum Grandiflorum
Jasmine Concrete Jasmin Etoile Givco 144 Jasmin Italy Concrete
Jasminum Grandiflorum Jasmin Morocco Concrete
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Fine Chmical Trading Ltd. - U.K. AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Isojasmone B - 11
Jamrosa Benzyl Acetate
Jasmine Grandiflorum Abs. Jasmone Cis
Jasmine Grandiflorum Concrete Jasmonyl LG Di Hydro Jasmone
Jasmine - Juuhi Di Hydro Jasmone Ketone
Jasmine Sambac Myraldyl Acetate
FLORAL
Firmenich SA - Switzerland Quest International - Givaudan
Benzyl Acetate
Hedione Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Hedione FAM Benzyl Propionate Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Hedione HC Di Hydro Jasmone
Di Hydro Jasmone Di Hydro Jasmone Lactone
Jasmolactone
Jasmophore Iso Jasmone Jasimia
Jasmin
Jasmacylene Jasmin Absolute Chassis
Jasmatone Jasmin Absolute Concrete Egypt

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Jasmin Absolute Pommade Benzyl Salicylate Kato Aromatic S.A.E. - Egypt

Jasmin Acetate
Jasmin Concrete Italy Hemani Ex - Imp Corp. - India Jasmin Benzol Abs.
Jasmin Concrete Morocco Jasminum Grandiflorum
Jasmin Cyclopentanol Benzyl Acetate Jsmine Hexane
Jamsin Cyclopentanone Benzyl Propionate Jasminum Grandiflorum
Jasmin Lactone Benzyl Salicylate Jasmin Benzol Concrete
Jasmin Oil Italy Jasminum Grandiflorum
Jasmin Pyranol BOOK # 2 ( I - Z ) Jasmine Hexane Concrete
Jasmin Pyranone Jasminum Grandiflorum
Jasmone - ( Z ) IPRA Fragrances - France
Jasmone Iso Katyani Exports - India
Jasmone Para Jasmin Egypte Abs.
Jasmin Indes Abs. Jsmine Abs.
Graham Chemical Corp. - USA Jasmin Egypte Concrete Jasminum Grandiflorum
Jasmin Indes Concrete Jasmine Abs.
Jasmin Oil Jasmin Indes Sambac Concrete Jasminum Sambac

Benzyl Acetate, natural International Flavors & Frag. - USA Attar Jasmine
Benzyl Propionate
Benzyl Salicylate Benzyl Propionate Laboratoire Monique Remy - France
Benzyl Salicylate ( IFF )
Iso Jasmone natural
Fleuramone Jasmine Abs. Egypt
HC Biochem - China Jasmine Abs. India
Jasmal Jasmin Concrete Ref. A
Jasmine Abs. Jasmelia
Jasmine Concrete Jessemal Lluche Essence - Spain

H. Reynaud & Fils - France JC Buck Ltd. - U.K. Jasmine Abs.

Jasmin Absolute - Egypte Jasmin Egyptian Abs. SYNTHETIC AROMA CHEMICALS

Jasmin Indian Abs.
Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd. - UK Benzyl Acetate
Joint American Ventures - USA Benzyl Propionate 98 %
Jasmine Oil Benzyl Propionate 99 %
Jasmine Concrete Benzyl Acetate Benzyl Salicylate

Jasmin Extract Kao Corporation - Japan Di Hydro Jasmone

Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl
AROMATIC CHEMICALS MDJ Acetate

Benzyl Acetate Iso Jasmone Pure

Benzyl Propionate

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Jasmaone Payan Bertrand SA - France Jasmonato Metila

Jsmine Lactone Jasmonil ( Jessemal )
Jasmone - CIS Jasmine Egypt Abs. Jasmophore
Jasmopyrane Jasmine India Abs. Jessemal
Jasmopyrane Forte
Jeseate Penta Manufacturing - USA Polarome International - USA

Methyl Jasmonate Benzyl Acetate Jasmin Abs. ( Various Sources )

Lorthar Streek - Germany Perfume & Flavor Manuf. - Aust. AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Jamsone Cis Jasmin Oil - Grandiflorum Benzyl Acetate

Jasmonyl LT Jasminum Oil - Grandiflorum Benzyl Acetate Pure

Myraldyl Acetate Peter Jaris Cosmetic - U.K. Premier Chemical Corp. - India

M.X.D. Enterprise System - Korea Jasmin EG Jasmine Granfiflorum Abs.

Jasmin EO Jasmine Sambac Abs.
Jasmine Egyptian Abs. Extra
Petigara Chemicals - India AROAMTIC OILS
Mane SA - France
Jasmine Benzyl Acetate
Jasmin Abs. MD ( Grandi Florum ) Abs.
Jasmine Di Hydro Iso Jasmone
MelChem Distribution - USA ( Grandi Florum ) Concrete
Jsmin Sambac Abs. Prima Fleur - USA
Benzyl Acetate Nat. Jasmine Sambac Concrete
Jasmine Abs.
Moraflor Aromatiques - France Petit Marie - Brazil Jasminum Grandiflorum
Egypt
Jasmine Oil MF Jasmine Abs. Jasmine Smabac Abs.
Jasmin Egipto Abs. Jasminum Sambac
PFW Aroma Chemicals - The Neth. India
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Iso Jasmone Prodasynth - France
Acetato Benzila
Paul Kaders Gmbh - Germany Acetato Di Metil Benzil Carbinol Benzyle Acetate

Jasmin Concrete / Absolute Hedione Di Hydro Jasmone

AROMA CHEMICALS Iso Jsmone Quality Analysis Ltd. - U.K.

Benzylacetate Jasmal Jasmin Abs. - Egypt, Ukraine

Jasmolactona

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Rai Ingredients - Brazil Sarcom Inc. - USA Sundial Fragrances & Flavors - USA

Jasmin Etoile Givco 144 Benzyl Acetate 99 % China Benzyl Propionate

Jasmone CIS
Science Lab - USA Sunrose Aromatics - USA
Myraldyl Acetate
Jasmine Oil Jasmine Grandiflorum -
Raj Aromatics Aroma Corp. - India 20 % in Jojoba
Seema International - India Jasmine Sambac
Henkel
Jasmine Oil Jasmine Abs., Egypt
DMBC - A
Sensient Essential Oils - Germany SINGLE NOTES 10 % DILUTION
Robertet SA - France
Jasmin Abs. - India Jasmine Grandiflorum - 10 %
Jasmin Chassis Abs. in Jojoba
Jasmin Eyptian Shanghai M & U Intl. - China Symrise Gmbh - Germany

Osmanthus CC Abs. Benzyl Acetate Benzyl Acetate

Benzyl Propionate
Rosetta Enterprises, LLC - USA Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - A. Benzyl Salicylate

Benzyl Propionate NATURAL AROMA CHEMICALS Jasmaprunat

SAT Group - India Benzyl Acetate Lactojasmone

Jasmine Oil Shreeji Aroma - India Synaco Group - Belgium

SRS Aromatics Ltd. - U.K. Jasmin Abs. Jasmin Absolute

Jasmin Concrete
Jasmine Abs. Egypt A AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Jasmine Abs. Egypt 2455 Synarome - France
Jasmine Abs. India A Benzyl Acetate
Jasmine Abs. India 1057 Jasmarome Absolute
Jasmine Extract Hedione Jasmin 8188 - 1
Jasmin 8842 - 1
AROMA CHEMICALS Som Santi House - India Jasmin Concretarome

Benzyl Acetate Jasmine Abs. - Nat. Thailand Institute of Science

Benzyl Propionate
Benzyl Salicylate Sovimpex - France China

Acetate Benzyle Jasmin Abs.

Jasmin Concrete

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Egypt Treatt Inc. - USA Firmenich, S.A. - Switz.

Jasmin Abs. France Jasmolactone

Jasmin Concrete
Jasmin IFF - USA
France
Jasmal
Jasmin Abs. Egypt Jessemal
Jasmin Concrete
Jasmin Nippon Zeon Co., Ltd.
India
China Claigeon ( MDJ )
Jasmin Abs.
Jasmin Concrete Jasmin Methyl Jasmonate

India Supercepionate
Italy
Jasmin Synarome
Jasmin Abs.
Jasmin Concrete Trisenx, Inc. - USA Jasmylone 99

Morocco Jasmin Floraline ( P - 99 ) AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Jasmin Abs. LIBRARY OF FINE CHEMICALS Benzyl Acetate

Jasmin Concrete
Benzyl Acetate Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate - Pfw
South Africa
Hedione Jasmal - IFF
Jasmin Abs. Jasmin Lactone - Zeon
Jasmin Concrete U.K. Aromatic & Chemicals - India Jasmolactone - Firmenich
Jasmorange
Th. Gyer Gmbh - Germany Benzyl Propionate Jasmylone 99 - Synarome
Jesemal - IFF
Benzylacetate Uhe Company, Inc. - USA
Methyl Jasmonate - Zion
Jasmaprunat Benzyl Acetate
W & W Australia Pty Ltd. - Aust.
Tianjin Jiete Fine Chemical - China Ventos, Ernesto S.A. - Spain
Benzyl Acetate
Benzyl Acetate Jasmine Abs.
Benzyl Propionate Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl
SPECIALTY PRODUCTS Acetate

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Walsh, Johm D., Co. - USA cis-2-Pentenol

Jasmin Abs. 2-n-Heptyl Cyclopentanone

2-n-Hexyl Cyclopentanone
AROMATIC CHEMICALS & NATURALS

Benzyl Acetate
Benzyl Propionate
Benzyl Salicylate

Hedione

Jasmacylene
Jasmal
Jasmatone
Jasmin Absolute Oliffac
Jasmopyrane
Jasmopyrane Forte
Jessemal

Wambesco Gmbh - Denmark

Jasmin Egyptian Absolute

AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Benzyl Propionate

Iso Jasmone

Zeon Corporation - Japan

Cepionate
Cis - Jasmon
Claigeon

Jasmin Lactone

Super Cepionate

Zeppin

OTHERS

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Jasmin Notes

Benzyl Acetate Strong sweet fresh fruity floral odor of many types of flowers.

Benzyl Acetate Coeur A richer, softer jasmin.

Benzyl Acetate FFC Floral, jasmine

Benzyl Propionate Fruity sweet, floral undertone type jasmin.

Claigeon Jasmin-like.

Cepionate Powdery long lasting, jasmin.

Cis-Jasmon Diffusive, fruity jasmin.

Cis-2-Pentenol Powerful, jasmin, like.

CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.

Delphone Powerful, diffusive and complex floral aromatic and fruity, jasmin.

Di Hydro Iso Jasmone Lactonic, floral, jasmine.

Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Fruity odor floral jasmin.

Di Hydro Jasmone Fruity sweet floral woody with a powdery nuance.

Di Jasmone A full, deep jasmin type odor, intensely floral.

D M B C - Acetate Fresh powerful fruity floral odor of jasmin, lily.

2-Heptyl Cyclopentanone Floral, herbal, jasmin-like.

2-n-Hexyl Cyclopentanone Green floral, jasmin-like.

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Iso Jasmone Isomeric floral jasmin mixture.

Iso Jasmone Pure Powerful, latonic, celery - jasmin.

Jasmacylene Low cost, fresh diffusive green, woody anise, herby, - jasmin.

Jasmal Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor.

Jasmaprunate Fruity like apple jasmin dry slightly green like wild grapes.

Jasmatone Diffusive, warm spicy celery, with a hint of frutiness, - jasmin.

Jasmelia A pungent jasmin, jasmone odor with a hint of parsley.

Jasmin # 187 A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex.

Jasmin AB13 Economical but tenacious base with a fruity top note.

Jasmin AB 410 Long lasting, absolute note of floral jasmin.

Jasmin Abs. Floral jasmin not overly sweet like cananga oil.

Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.

Jasmin Abs. Italian Max. The purest heart of the floral jasmin.

Jasmin Abs. Oliffac An economical approach of the precious jasmin flower.

Jasmin Chassis Abs. Resembles orange flower absolute, warm sweet and heavy.

Jasmin Concrete With a varying source odor is waxy, fatty sweet jasmin like.

Jasmin Egyptian An extremely fine floral jasmin fragrance.

Jasmin Egyptian C2612 Has fine jasmin top note quite diffusive.

Jasmin Etoile Givco 144 Spicy warm floral.

Jasmin Lactone Powerful cream, jasmine, peach coconut note.

Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt A sweet strong jasmin green floral petal like odor.

Jasmin 74D A reconstitution of jasmin absolute.

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Jasmine The sweetest and most celebrated flower of North Africa.

Jasmolactone Sweet fruity floral jasmin.

Jasmolactone CNC Oily, fruity floral petal like suggestive of many floral absolutes.

Jasmo Lactone XC Jasmin absolute odor with a buttery note.

Jasmoneige Natural jasmin.

Jasmonol Floral waxy odor works well in tuberose, honeysuckle and jasmin.

Jasmonyl Intensely sweet floral jasmin.

Jasmonyl Acetate Jasmin somewhat pear like odor.

Jasmophyll Sweet floral fruity like jasmin slight green herbal woody nuance.

Jasmorange Fruity balsamic, green floral, aldehydic.

Jasmopyrane Rich, waxy, sweet floral jasmin complex.

Jasmopyrane Forte More tenacious floral jasmin, and has a slight mushroomy note.

Jessemal Herbaceous floral jasmin.

Lactone CIS Jasmone # 114 Soft floral odor of jasmin.

Lactone of CIS Jasmone # 411 A floral waxy, jasmine absolute odor. Used in jasmine fragrances.

Methyl Jasmonate The floral heart of jasmin, petal soft and tenacious, elegant.

Methyl Jasmonate Extra More powerful and floral than standard material extremely diffusive.

Zeppin Diffusive, sweet, noble jasmin.

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Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Kephalis .1 Alcohol C - 9
46 Coumane 15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
9 Vanillin 7 Irisone Bis
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Citronellol 850
.1 Civet Augaflor 9 3 Citronica
25 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 1 Verdantiol - Givaudan
2 Amberfleur 36 Geraniol 970
6 Benzyle Benzoate .1 Tea Essence
3 Rose Crystals 4 Orange Flower Base
6 Methyl Benzoate 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
10 Sandec Givco 75 10 Lyral
1 Iso - Rose 3 Nerol Petals
117 Hydroxycitronellal .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Pearalate
4 Irotyl 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
7 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Tea Essence
8 Aquanol 1 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
14 Eugenol 2 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Laurinal 3 Muguet Aldehyde
66 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 6 C - 14 “ Peach “
18 Liral 3 Iso Eugenol
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Stemone
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1 Florosia
3 Methyl Dianthanol .2 Geranyl Acetate
31 Rose Substitute 1 Vanilla Resinoid
3 Bnezophenone
4 Ivyal
5 Ionone Alpha Extra 1,000
24 Ethylene Brassylate
67 Benzyl Acetate
8 Kir Base # 9741

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Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Iso E Super .1 Alcohol C - 9

46 Coumane 15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
9 Vanillin 7 Irisone Bis
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Citronellol 850
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
22 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Verdantiol - Givaudan
2 Amberfleur 38 Geraniol 970
6 Benzyl Alcool .1 Mirabelle 2000 D
3 Rose Crystals 4 Orange Flower Base
7 Methyl Benzoate 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
10 Sandec Givco 75 10 Lyral
1 Iso - Rose 3 Nerol Petals
120 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Iso Jasmone .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Pearalate
4 Irotyl 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
7 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Tea Essence
8 Aquanol 1 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
14 Eugenol 2 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 3 Muguet Aldehyde
64 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 6 C - 14 “ Peach “
18 Liral 1 Para Cresyl Redistilled
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Stemone
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1 Florosia
3 Iso - Eugenol .2 Geranyl Acetate
32 Rose For Soap Base 1 Vanilla Resinoid
3 Bnezophenone
4 Jasmin P.G.
5 Ionone Pure 100 % 1,000
24 Muskylein
67 Benzyl Acetate
8 Kir Base # 9741

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Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Osyrol .1 Alcohol C - 9
45 Coumane 15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
9 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 7 Irisone Bis
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 5 Citronellol Prime
.1 Civet Augaflor 9 3 Citronica
24 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
2 Amberfleur 36 Geraniol 970
6 Benzyl Benzoate .1 Tea Essence
3 Rose Crystals 4 Orange Flower Base
4 Methyl Benzoate 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
10 Sandec Givco 75 10 Lyral
1 Damascenia 185 SA 3 Nerol Petals
117 Hydroxycitronellal .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 5 Jasmone
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Pearalate
4 Irotyl 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
7 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Tea Essence
8 MelonOrg 1 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
14 Eugenol 2 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Laurinal 3 Muguet Aldehyde
66 Iso Raldeine Substitute 6 Aldehyde C - 14
18 Liral 3 Carnaline
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Stemone
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1 Florosia
3 Methyl Dianthanol .2 Geranyl Acetate
35 Rose Substitute 1 Vanilla Resinoid
3 Bnezophenone
4 Ivyal
5 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
24 Muscomer 810 P
67 Benzyl Acetate
8 Kir Base # 9741

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Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 1d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Sandalore .1 Geraniol 600

46 Coumane 15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
10 Vanillin 7 Irisone Bis
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 5 Citronellol 850
.1 Civet Augaflor 9 3 Citronica
22 Musk T - Takasago 1 Verdantiol - Givaudan
2 Iso E Super 36 Geraniol 60
6 Benzyle Benzoate .1 Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt
3 Rose Crystals 4 Orange Flower Base
6 Methyl Benzoate 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
10 Sandec Givco 75 10 Lyral
3 Iso - Rose 3 Nerol Petals
117 Hydroxycitronellal .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Jasmin Oil M/F
4 Jasmin Oil Italy 1 Rose Oil - Turkey
7 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Tea Essence
8 Aquanol 1 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
14 Eugenol 2 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Iso Jasmone 3 Muguet Aldehyde
67 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 6 C - 14
18 Jasmin Province Base 3 Iso Eugenol
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Petilyn
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1 Florosia
2 Dianthanol .2 Acetate de Geranyle
31 Rose Substitute # 60 1 Vanilla Resinoid
3 Bnezophenone
4 Iridales
5 Ionone Alpha Extra 1,000
24 Musk TM II
67 MDJ Super
8 Kir Base # 9741

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Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 1e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Woodynol II - FFC Aroma .1 Alcohol C - 9

46 Di Hydro Coumarex 15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
9 Vanisal 7 alpha - Ionone Extra
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Citronellol 850
.1 Civet Powder # 1B 3 Citronica
25 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 1 Aurantiol
2 Amber Core - Kao Corp. - Japan 36 Geraniol 970
6 Benzyl Benzoate .1 Jasmin Absolute - Egypt
3 Rose Crystals 4 Orange Flower Base
6 Methyl Benzoate 6 Cinnamalva
10 Sandec Givco 75 10 Mallow
1 Iso - Rose 3 Nerol Petals
117 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Pearalate
4 Jasmin Oil 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
7 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Tea Essence
8 Ozonfleur 1 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
14 Eugenol 2 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Laurinal 3 Muguet Aldehyde
66 Ionone Intermediate Base 6 Aldehyde C - 14
18 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Iso Eugenol
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Liveche
310 ( DPG ) 1 Neryl Acetate
3 Methyl Dianthanol .2 Fleuramone
31 Rose Substitute 1 Vanilline
3 Bnezophenone
4 Ivyal
5 Ionone Alpha Extra 1,000
24 Musk Xylene ( IFRA )
67 Super Ceptionate
8 Kir Base # 9741

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Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Koavonne 3 Citronellol 750

5 Ambrox DL 9 Orange Blossom Base
3 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Sandela 1 Rose Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cetonal V
7 Vanillin 9 Wardia Substitute
39 Musk 50 DPG 6 Bourgeon De Cassis
3 Amberfleur .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Galaxolide 50 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
4 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
1 Alpha Damascone 1 Neroli Oliffac
51 Benzylacetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Cananga Odorata
3 Jasmophore 9 Hydroxyciol
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Undecavertol
29 Eugenol 3 Wardia
1 Iso Jasmone 25 Linalol S 97
5 Galbanum Resinoid 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lioral 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 alpha - Ionone 3 Jasilyn
10 Rose Substitute 2 Phyllos
5 Acetate Benzyle 99 % 7 Orange Oil Florida ( Cold Pressed )
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1,000
310 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA
34 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citronelle
75 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
18 Laurine Extra
1 Iso Rose
.1 Alcohol C - 9
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalyl Acetate Pur

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Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Iso E Super 3 Citronellol 750

5 Ambrox DL 9 Orange Blossom Base
3 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
10 Sandela 1 Rose Givco 188
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cetonal V
7 Vanillin 9 Wardia Substitute
39 Musk 50 DPG 6 Bois Amberene Forte
3 Amberfleur .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
4 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
2 Alpha Damascone 1 Neroli Oliffac
51 Benzy Acetate FCC .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Cananga Odorata
3 Jasmophore 9 Hydroxyciol
111 Hydroxycitronellal .1 Undecavertol
28 Eugenol 3 Wardia
2 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 25 Linalol S 97
5 Galbanum Resinoid 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lioral 6 Myraldyl Acetate
4 Irisone Bis 3 Jasilyn
10 Rose Substitute 2 Phyllos
5 Acetate Benzyle 99 % 7 Orange Oil of California ( Sweet )
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol
1 Damascenia 185 SA
32 Geraniol 60
75 Ionone Intermediate Base
18 Lyral
1 Adoxal
.1 Jasminum Sambac Abs.
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalyl Acetate Pur

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Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

16 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Citronellol 98 %

5 Ambrox DL 9 Orange Blossom Base
3 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Sandela 1 Rose Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cetonal V
7 Vanillin 12 Wardia Substitute
35 Musk 50 DPG 6 Bourgeon De Cassis
3 Anthea Sandal Coeur .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Muskylein 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
4 Ethyl Vanisal 4 Scennal
1 Alpha Damascone 1 Neroli Oliffac
51 Benzylacetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
11 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Cananga Odorata
3 Jasmophore 9 Hydroxy Citronellal Di Methyl A.
114 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .1 Undecavertol
29 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Wardia - Firmenich
1 Iso Jasmone 25 Linalol S 97
5 Galbanum Resinoid 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lioral 3 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Iridales 3 Jasilyn
11 Rose Substitute 2 Jasmine Oil Pg
5 Acetate Benzyle 99 % 7 Orange Oil Florida ( Cold Pressed )
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1,000
310 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA
34 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citronelle
70 alpha Ionone Pure
18 Laurine Extra
1 Rosa Crystals
.1 Jasmine Abs. - Egypt, India
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalyl Acetate Pur

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 2d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Koavonne 3 Citronellol 800

5 Ambrox DL 12 Orange Blossom Base
3 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Sandec Givco 83 1 Rose Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cetonal V
7 Vanillin 11 Wardia Substitute
39 Galbanolide 6 Bourgeon De Cassis
3 Patchouli Amber .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Galaxolide 50 8 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
4 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
1 Damascenone 1 Neroli Oliffac
51 Benzylacetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Cananga Odorata
3 Jasmophore 6 Lilivert
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Undecavertol
29 Eugenol 3 Wardia
1 Iso Jasmone 26 Linalol 98 %
5 Galbanum Resinoid 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Jasmin Etiole Givco 144 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Myraldyl Acetate 3 Jasilyn
10 Rose For Soap Base 73 2 Phyllos
5 Acetate Benzyle 99 % 7 Orange Oil Florida ( Cold Pressed )
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1,000
320 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA
34 Geraniol 970
70 Ionone Intermediate Base
18 Laurine Extra
3 Iso Rose
.1 Alcohol C - 9
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Geraniol from Citral
38 Linalyl Acetate Pur

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 2e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Koavonne 3 Citronellol 750

5 Ambrox DL 9 Orange Blossom Base
3 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Sandela 1 Rose Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cetonal V
7 Vanillin 9 Wardia Substitute
39 Musk 50 DPG 6 Bourgeon De Cassis
3 Amberfleur .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Galaxolide 50 8 Ionone Alpha Coeur
4 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
1 Alpha Damascone 1 Nerolin Crystals
51 Benzyl Acetate Nat. .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Cananga Odorata
3 Jasmophore 9 Hydroxyciol
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Folione
29 Eugenol 3 Wardia
1 Iso Jasmone 25 Linalol S 97
5 Galbanum Resinoid 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lioral 6 Benzyl Propionate - Hemani Ex -
3 Myraldyl Acetate 3 Jasilyn
10 Rose Substitute 2 Methyl Benzoate
5 Acetato Benzila 7 Orange Orpur Italy - Givaudan
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1,000
310 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA
34 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citronelle
75 Iso Raldeine Substitute
18 Laurine Extra
1 Damascenia 185
.1 Jasmin Abs. Italian Max.
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Carnaline
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalylacetate

130

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C Less 24 Linalol 99 %

7 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Citronellol 850 FCC
45 Coumane 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Woodynol I 4 Iso Raldeine 95
22 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilla Beans 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 20 Geraniol Prime
2 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Ylang Givco 225
16 Propionate Benzila 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol ( Carnation )
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanillin .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nerol
2 Benzophenone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Irisone - Mixed Isomers 1 Floranton T
5 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
119 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Florymoss
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Jasmin Indes Abs. 1 Ionone 100 %
5 Caraway Oil - Holland 1 Tuberose Oliffac
64 Methyl Ionone Alpha Coeur 6 Geranyl Acetate nat.
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Stemone
1 Beta Damascone 1 Iso Rose
2 Vanillyl Alcohol 1 Farnesyl Acetate
9 Ionone Pure 35 Linalyl Acetate
17 Lioral .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Nerolin Crystals
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Galaxolide 50 DPG

131

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C Less 24 Linalol Pur

7 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Citronellol 850 FCC
39 Coumrin Substitute 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Galaxolide 50 DEP .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Woodynol II 4 Iso Raldeine 95
22 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilla Beans 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Cashmeran 20 Geraniol Prime
2 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Ylang Givco 225
17 Benzyl Propionate 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol ( Carnation )
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanillin .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nerol
2 Geranodyle 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Irisone Bis 1 Floranton T
5 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
124 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Pomarose
28 Eugenol 3 Top Galbanum
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Jasmin Indes Abs. 1 Ionone 100 %
5 Heliotropine 1 Tuberose Oliffac
64 Methyl Ionone Alpha Coeur 6 Geranyl Acetate nat.
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Stemone
1 Jasmone - ( Z ) 1 Iso Rose
2 Vanillyl Alcohol 1 Farnesyl Acetate
9 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 35 Linalyl Acetate
17 Lioral .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Nerolin Crystals
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Galaxolide 50 DPG

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide 24 Linalol 99 %
7 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Citronellol 850 FCC
45 Coumane 12 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Gazalle
19 Musk Pierre .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Woodynol I 4 Iso Raldeine 70
22 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilla Beans 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 20 Geraniol Prime
2 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Ylang Givco 225
16 Propionate Benzila 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol ( Carnation )
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanillin .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Neryl Acetate
2 Benzophenone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Green Ivy Givco 117 1 Floranton T
5 Cinnamic Alcohol 3 Wardia
119 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Florymoss
28 Eugenol 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 5 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Jasmine Abs. 1 Ionone 100 %
5 Caraway Oil - Holland 1 Tuberose Oliffac
64 Ionone Alpha Refined 6 Geranyl Acetate nat.
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bois Amberene Forte
1 Beta Damascone 1 Iso Jasmone
2 Vanillyl Alcohol 1 Farnesyl Acetate
9 Ionone Pure 34 Acetate De Linalyle
17 Lyral .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Nerolin Crystals
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Etilen Brassilato

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 3d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C Less 24 Linalol 99 %

7 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Citronellol 850 FCC
45 Coumane 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Chandanone 4 Iso Raldeine 95
22 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilys - Pfw 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 20 Geraniol Prime
2 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Ylang Givco 225
16 Propionate Benzila 4 Isoeugenol ( Dianthanol )
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanillin .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nerol
2 Benzophenone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Irisone - Mixed Isomers 1 Floranton T
5 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
119 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Acetate Geranyle
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Jasmin Indes Abs. 1 Ionone 100 %
5 Coriander Oil - Russian 1 Tuberose Oliffac
64 Methyl Ionone Alpha Coeur 7 Geranyl Acetate nat.
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Stemone
1 Beta Damascone 1 Benzyl Propionate
2 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1 Farnesyl Acetate
9 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 35 Linalylacetate
17 Lyrame Super .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Neroli Artessence
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Musk Clear

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 3e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C Less 5 Citronellol Pur

8 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
45 Coumane 3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Jasmine Abs. Sambac - India
19 Macrolide 4 Iso Raldeine 95
8 Woodynol I .1 Orange Flower Water
22 Benzyl Salicylate 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
6 Vanilla Beans 20 Geraniol 60
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Petilyn
2 Anisyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol ( Carnation )
16 Propionate Benzila 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
5 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanillin 5 Nerol
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Benzophenone 1 Floranton T
1 Givescone 4 Wardia
4 Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Florymoss
119 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Scennal
28 Eugenol 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 y - Irone
.1 Jasmin Indes Abs. 1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Caraway Oil - Holland 6 Geranyl Acetate nat.
65 Methyl Ionone Alpha Coeur 2 Stemone
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
1 Geranium 2222 1 Farnesyl Acetate
2 Vanillyl Alcohol 35 Linalyl Acetate
9 Ionone Pure .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
17 Meijiff
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Nerolin Crystals 1,000
.1 Rosalva
28 Galaxolide 50 DPG
24 Linalol 99 %

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Kephalis 4 Hawthorn
45 Coumarin Crystals .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
1 Civet Tincture 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 1 Iso Rose
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Amberfleur 15 Wardia
8 Vanillin 3 Apple Blossom
2 Heliotropine 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
79 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 Acetate De Benzyle
1 Thymol Crystals 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
6 Lilial 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
17 Ethylene Brassylate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Jasmoneige 1 Meranol
6 Vanillinethyl 4 Bourgeons De Cassis
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 Petilyn
1 Jasmine .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
125 Hydroxy Citronellal 1 Rhodiaflor SnH
3 Citronellol 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
22 Carnation Base 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Mallow 4 Nutmeg Indonesia
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
23 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Eugenyl Acetate
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Benzylacetate
20 Geraniol 970 18 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Jasmylone 99
12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Boisnal
5 Hydroxycitronellal A
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Ethyl Linalool
.7 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Kephalis 4 Aubepine
45 Coumarin Crystals .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate Substitute
1 Civet Tincture 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 1 Iso Jasmone
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Amber 15 Wardia
8 Vanillin 3 Apple Blossom
2 Heliotropine 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
79 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 Acetate De Benzyle
1 Thyme Oil White ( O ) - Canada 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
6 Liral 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
17 Musk TM II .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Jasmoneige 1 Meranol
6 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Bourgeons De Cassis
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 Petilyn
1 Jasmine .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
125 Hydroxy Citronellal 1 Bugaflor - Synarome
3 Citronellol 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
24 Carnation Base 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Mallow 4 Nutmeg Indonesia
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Jasmine Sambac
23 Jasmine Oil P.g. 1 Eugenyl Acetate
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Benzylacetate
20 Geraniol 970 18 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Jasmylone 99
12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
2 Liveche
5 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
24 Linalool
.7 Perryfix - Creations Aromatiques

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Kephalis 4 Anis Aldehyde

45 Coumane - Flexitrail .1 Folione
1 Civet Tincture 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate 1 Iso Rose
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Candanone 15 Wardia
8 Vanillin 3 Apple Juice Givco 89
2 Heliotropine 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
79 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 Acetate De Benzyle
1 Thymol Crystals 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
6 Hedione 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
17 Musk Ambrette Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tuberose Oliffac
4 Jasmoneige 1 Meranol
6 Vanillinethyl 4 Bourgeons De Cassis
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 Scennal
1 Iso Jasmone .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
125 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Rhodiaflor SnH
3 Citronellol 850 FCC 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
22 Carnation Base 1 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Mallow 4 Nutmeg W.I.
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
23 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Eugenyl Acetate
86 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Benzylacetate
20 Geraniol 60 18 Linalyl Acetate
304 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Jasmin Oil - Grandiflorum
14 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
2 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalool
.7 Anapear - Givaudan

138

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 4d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Kephalis 4 Hawthorn
48 Coumarin Crystals .1 Tuberose Abs. India A
1 Civet Tincture 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 1 Iso Rose
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Amberonne 15 Wardia
8 Vanillin 3 Verdox
2 Heliotropine 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
79 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 Acetate De Benzyle
1 Thymol Crystals 8 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
6 Lilial 1 Muguet Aldehyde
14 Ethylene Brassylate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Jasmoneige 1 Meranol
6 Vanillinethyl 4 Bourgeons De Cassis
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 Petilyn
1 Methyl Jasmonate .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
128 Hydroxy Citronellal 1 Rhodiaflor SnH
3 Citronellol - L 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
22 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Mallow 4 Nutmeg Indonesia
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
23 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Eugenyl Acetate
86 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Jasmopyrane
20 Geraniol 970 18 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Super Cepionate
12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Boisnal
5 Hydroxycitronellal A
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 Linalool
.7 Pearalate

139

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 4e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Kephalis 1 Anisic Aldeido

45 Coumarin Crystals .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
1 Civet Tincture 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 1 Iso Rose
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Anthea Sandal Coeur 15 Wardia
8 Vanillin 3 Apple Oliffac
2 Heliotropine 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
79 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 Acetate De Benzyle
1 Thyme Oil Red 8 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
3 Laurine Extra 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
17 Ethylene Brassylate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
2 Jasmoneige 1 Meranol
6 Vanillinethyl 4 Bourgeons De Cassis
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 Petilyn
1 Jasmine .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
128 Hydroxy Citronellal 1 Iso - Eugenol
3 Citronellol 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
25 Carnation Base 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Mallow 4 Nutmeg Indonesia
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Acetal
23 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Eugenyl Acetate
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Benzylacetate
20 Geraniol 970 18 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Jasmacylene
12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 1,000
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Boisnal
5 Hydroxycitronellal A
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Ethyl Linalool
.7 C - 14 ( Peach ) Pure

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 5 Muguet Alcohol

8 Amyris Oil ( West Indies ) Sandal 3 Mallow
.1 Civet Tincture 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Heliotropine 7 Orange Flor Deco
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Jasmine Abs.
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG 5 Cassis Fragrance F
5 Woodynol I .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Vanillin .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Polarose 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 2 Eugenyl Acetate
8 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 3 Kir Base # 9741
3 Iritone 17 Tuberose Substitute
62 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 1 Iris Beure Oil
103 Muguet Base 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Benzyl Propionate
25 Geraniol 60 10 Orange Blossom Base
8 Hydroxycitronellol 4 Wardia
1 Rosone 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
4 Laurine Extra .4 Alcohol C - 10
22 Eugenol 2 Nerol
6 Di Methyl Octanol 3 Iridales
4 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Alpha Damascone 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less .1 Florymoss
318 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 24 Linalyl Acetate
4 Iridales 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
15 Citronellol Nat.
1 Iso Jasmone 1,000
33 Linalol S 97

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 5 Muguet Alcohol

8 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Mallow
.1 Civette Givco 85 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Heliotropine 7 Orange Flor Deco
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Jasmine Grandiflorum
43 Galaxolide 50 DPG 5 Cassis Fragrance F
5 Woodynol II .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Vanillin .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Polarose 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 2 Eugenyl Acetate
6 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 3 Kir Base # 9741
3 Iritone 17 Tuberose Substitute
62 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 1 Folrosia
105 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Benzyl Propionate
45 Geraniol 60 10 Orange Blossom Base
8 Hydroxycitronellol 4 Wardia
1 Rosone 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
4 Laurine Extra .4 Alcohol C - 10
22 Eugenol 2 Nerol
6 Di Methyl Octanol 3 Iris Beure Oil
4 Lyral 2 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Alpha Damascone 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less .1 Florymoss
318 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 24 Linalyl Acetate
4 Irisone Bis 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
15 Citronellol - High Purity
1 Iso Jasmone 1,000
33 Linalol S 97

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 5 Muguet Alcohol

8 Sandalore 3 Mallow
.1 Civet Tincture 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Heliotropine 8 Orange Flor Deco
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Jasmine Abs.
53 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
5 Woodynol I .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Vanillin .1 Meranol
.1 Polarose 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 2 Eugenyl Acetate
8 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 3 Kir Base # 9741
3 Iritone 17 Tuberose Substitute
62 Zeppin 1 Iris Beure Oil
103 Muguet Base 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Jasmolactona
25 Geraniol 60 15 Orange Blossom Base
8 Hydroxycitronellol 4 Wardia
1 Rosone 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
4 Laurine Extra .4 Alcohol C - 10
22 Eugenol / Clove 2 Rhodinol Ex Citronellal
6 Di Methyl Octanol 3 Iridales
4 Troenan 2 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Alpha Damascone 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less .1 Florymoss
316 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 24 Linalyl Acetate
4 Ionone 100 % 1 Neryl Acetate
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
15 Citronellol Nat.
1 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1,000
33 Linalol S 97

143

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 5d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 5 Muguet Alcohol

8 Amyris Oil ( West Indies ) Sandal 3 Petilyn
.1 Civet Tincture 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Heliotropine 7 Orange Flor Deco
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Jasmine Abs.
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG 5 Cassis Fragrance F
5 Sandel SR .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Vanillin .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Polarose 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
21 Benzyl Salicylate 2 Eugenyl Acetate
8 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 3 Kir Base # 9741
3 Iritone 17 Tuberose Substitute
62 Benzylacetate 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
103 Muguet Base 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Damascenia 185 SA
25 Geraniol 60 10 Orange Blossom Base
8 Hydroxycitronellol 4 Wardia
1 Rosone 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
4 Laurine Extra .4 Alcohol C - 10
22 Eugenol 2 Nerol
6 Di Methyl Octanol 3 Benzyle Acetate
4 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Alpha Damascone 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less .1 Jasmin Etoile Givco 144
318 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 24 Linalyl Acetate
4 Iridales 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
15 Citronellol
1 Iso Jasmone 1,000
33 Linalol S 97

144

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 5e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Alcool Benzila 5 Muguet Alcohol

9 Sandalwood - Australia 3 Mallow
.1 Civet Artificial 1a 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Heliotropine 5 Orange Flor Deco
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Jasmine Abs.
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG 7 Cassis Fragrance F
5 Osyrol .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Vanillin .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Polarose 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 2 Eugenyl Acetate
8 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 3 Bourgenal
3 Iritone 17 Tuberose Substitute
60 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 1 Iris Beure Oil
109 Muguet Base 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Benzyl Propionate
25 Geraniol 60 10 Orange Blossom Base
8 Hydroxycitronellol 4 Wardia - Firmenich
1 Rosa Crystals 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
4 Laurine Extra .4 Alcohol C - 10
23 Eugenol 2 Bois Amberene Forte
6 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Iridales
4 Hydroxyciol 2 Orange Flower Augustus 15
2 Damascone 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less .1 Florymoss
318 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 24 Linalyl Acetate
4 Iridales 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
15 Citronellol
1 Iso Rose 1,000
33 Linalol S 97

145

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 6a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

6 Vanilline 3 Orange Oil Sweet
48 Coumarin Substitute 25 Geraniol Prime
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 1 Ribes Mercaptan - Cassis
8 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Sandol-SA 34 Linalool Nat.
23 Hydroxycitronellal .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Cashmeran 4 Geranium Oil pure
52 Benzyl Acetate 2 Cassifix
9 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Damascenonel
4 Sandela 5 Aldeido Muguet
109 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .3 Jasmine Abs. - Egypt
6 Diola 2 Carnaline
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Iso E Super
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Scennal
5 Ethyl Vanillin 27 Linalyl Acetate
12 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Meranol
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugneol
1 Sandalore 3 Jasmin Egyptian C2612
3 y - Irone
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Jasmin Oil Pg
3 Geranyl Acetate
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
16 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Rose Turkey Abs.
3 Jasmin 74 D
.1 Alcohol C - 9

146

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 6b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

6 Vanilline 3 Orange Oil of Florida ( C.P. )
47 Coumarin Substitute 25 Geraniol Prime
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
34 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Ribes Mercaptan - Cassis
8 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Amberfleur 34 Linalool
23 Hydroxycitronellal .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Cinnamon Leaf Oil - India
6 Musk Xylene ( IFRA ) 4 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
52 Benzyl Acetate 2 Cassifix
9 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Rose ( 752 P59 )
4 Sandela 5 Aldeido Muguet
115 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .3 Jasmine Abs. - Egypt
3 Diola 2 Carnaline
2 Isoeugenol 3 Anthea Sandal Coeur
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Scennal
5 Ethyl Vanillin 27 Linalyl Acetate
12 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Meranol
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugneol
1 Sandalore 3 Jasmin Egyptian C2612
3 Ionone Alpha Refined
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Jasmin Oil Pg
3 Geranyl Acetate
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
16 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Rose Turkey Abs.
3 Jasmin 74 D
.1 Perryfix - Creations Aromatiques, S

147

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 6c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

6 Vanilline 3 Orange Oil Sweet
48 Coumarin Substitute 25 Geraniol Prime
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 1 Ribes Mercaptan - Cassis
8 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Sandol-SA 34 Linalool Nat.
23 Hydroxycitronellal .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Cashmeran 4 Geranium Oil pure
58 Benzyl Acetate 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
9 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Damascenonel
4 Sandela 5 Aldeido Muguet
119 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .3 Jasmine Abs. - Egypt
6 Diola 2 Carnaline
2 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Iso E Super
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Meijiff
5 Ethyl Vanillin 27 Linalyl Acetate
6 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Meranol
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugneol
1 Sandalore 3 Jasmin Egyptian C2612
3 y - Irone
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia Fleuriff 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol S 97
1 Jasmophore
3 Geranyl Acetate
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
16 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Rose Turkey Abs.
3 Jasmin 74 D
.1 Geranium over Roses

148

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 6d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

6 Vanillin 3 Orange Oil Sweet
38 Coumarin 25 Geraniol Prime
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
39 Galaxolide 50 1 Ribes Mercaptan - Cassis
8 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Sandol-SA 34 Linalool Nat.
23 Hydroxyciol .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Muskylein 4 Geranium Rose Givco 83
52 Benzyl Acetate 2 Cassifix
9 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Damascenonel
4 Osyrol 5 Muguet Aldehyde
119 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .3 Jasmine Abs. - Egypt
6 Diola 2 Carnaline
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Bacdanol
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Scennal
5 Ethyl Vanillin 27 Linalyl Acetate
12 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Meranol
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugneol
1 Sandela 3 Jasmine Oil
3 y - Irone
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia Acetal 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Benzyl Acetate FCC
3 Geranyl Acetate SP
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
16 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Rose Essence Abs.
3 Jasmin Etiole Givco 55
.1 Ionone

149

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 6e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 5 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate

6 Vanillys - Pfw 3 Orange Oil Sweet
48 Coumarin Substitute 25 Geraniol 970
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
39 Macrolide 1 Ribes Mercaptan - Cassis
8 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Sandol-SA 34 Linalool Nat.
23 Hydroxycitronellal .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Oranger Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Cashmeran 4 Geranium Oil pure
52 Benzyl Acetate 2 Cassifix
9 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Damascenonel
4 Sandela 5 Aldeido Muguet
126 Hydroxycitronellol .3 Jasmine Abs. - Egypt
6 Diola 2 Carnaline
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Iso E Super
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Scennal
5 Ethyl Vanillin 27 Linalyl Acetate
12 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Meranol
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
84 alpha - Ionone 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugneol
1 Sandalore 3 Jasmin Egyptian C2612
3 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
7 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
3 Geranyl Acetate
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
16 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Rose Turkey Abs.
3 Jasmin 74 D
.1 Fleuramone

150

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 7a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB

4 Cashmeran 1 Di Methyl Octanol
9 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Neroli Egypt
.1 Civet Powder # 1A .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
19 Benzyle Salicylate 5 Florantone T
17 Osyrol 30 Geraniol Pure
5 Musk Emeressence .1 Tuberose Augaflor 17
1 Rose Crystals 29 Trinalool
4 Heliotropine 8 Orange Blossom Base
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Undecavertol
69 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
7 Hedione .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Vanillinethyl 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
.1 Iso Rose 2 Nerol
126 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Cassis Fragrance B
12 Kephalis .1 Leaf Alcohol
5 Cashmeran 3 Thesaron
19 Hidroxicitronelal 6 Orangeflor
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Verotyl
1 Rosone 1 Bois Amberene Forte
23 Eugenol 3 Eugenyl Acetate
14 Laurine Extra 2 Cassis Fragrance B
2 Magnol 36 Linalyl Acetate
319 Di Propylene Glycol
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol 1,000
6 Geraniol Ex Citronella
5 Mallow
17 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg

151

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB

4 Traseolide 1 Di Methyl Octanol
9 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Neroli Morocco
.1 Civet Powder # 1A .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
35 ( DEP ) - Di Ethyl Phthalate .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
19 Benzyl Salicylate 5 Florantone T
17 Sandalwood Oliffac 31 Geraniol Pure
5 Musk Emeressence .1 Tuberose Augaflor 17
1 Rose Crystals 29 Ethyl Linalool
4 Heliotropine 8 Orange Blossom Base
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Undecavertol
69 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
7 Hedione .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Vanillinethyl 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
.1 Iso Rose 1 Meranol
129 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Cassis Fragrance B
12 Kephalis .1 Leaf Alcohol
5 Cashmeran 3 Benzyl Propionate
19 Hidroxicitronelal 6 Orangeflor
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Verotyl
1 Rosone 1 Scennal
23 Eugenol 3 Eugenyl Acetate
14 Laurine Extra 2 Cassis Fragrance B
2 Magnol 36 Linalyl Acetate
319 Di Propylene Glycol
3 Benzyl Acetate Coeu
8 Citronellol 850 1,000
5 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
6 Mallow
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 Melon Oliffac

152

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 7c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB

4 Cashmeran 1 Di Methyl Octanol
9 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Neroli Egypt
.1 Civet Powder # 1A .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
19 Benzyle Salicylate 3 Florantone T
17 Osyrol 34 Geraniol Extra
5 Musk Emeressence .1 Tuberose Augaflor 17
1 Rose Crystals 29 Trinalool
4 Heliotropine 10 Orange Blossom Base
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Undecavertol
69 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
7 Hedione .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Vanillinethyl 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
.1 Iso Rose 2 Nerol
126 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Cassis Fragrance B
12 Brahmanol .1 Leaf Alcohol
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal
19 Hidroxicitronelal 6 Orangeflor
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Verotyl
1 Rose Crystals Ex Benzaldehyde 1 Bois Amberene Forte
23 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
14 Laurine Extra 2 Cassis Fragrance B
2 Magnol 37 Linalylacetate
329 Di Propylene Glycol
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol - L 1,000
6 Geraniol Ex Citronella
2 Mallow
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 Aquamor

153

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 7d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 2 Mallow
4 Nepalva 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
9 Benzyl Benzoate 11 Wardia
.1 Civet Powder # 3b 8 MelonOrg
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 1 Jasmone
17 Osyrol 3 Neroli Egypt
5 Musk Emeressence .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Rose Crystals .1 Rose Bourbon Abs. - France
4 Heliotropine 5 Florantone T
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 34 Geraniol Pure
69 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Tuberose Augaflor 17
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 29 Linalol Extra
7 Iso Jasmone Pure 8 Orange Blossom Base
4 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Undecavertol
.1 Iso Rose 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
136 Lilial 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
12 Kephalis .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
5 Cashmeran 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
19 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Neryl Acetate
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Cassis Fragrance B
1 Rose Crystals .1 Leaf Alcohol
23 Eugenol 3 Thesaron
14 Laurine Extra 6 Orangeflor
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Lyrame Super
319 Di Propylene Glycol 1 Bois Amberene Forte
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol 2 Cassis Fragrance B
6 Geraniol 36 Linalyl Acetate

1,000

154

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 7e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB

4 Musk Emeressence 1 Di Methyl Octanol
9 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Neroli Egypt
.1 Civet Ethiopia .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate .1 Rose Essence Abs.
19 Benzyl Salicylate 5 Florantone T
20 Sandalwood Oliffac 30 Geraniol Pure
5 Musk Emeressence .1 Tuberose Augaflor 17
1 Rose Crystals 29 Trinalool
4 Heliotropine 8 Orange Blossom Base
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Undecavertol
64 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
7 Benzyl Salicylate 99 % China .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Vanillinethyl 6 Methyl Octyl Ketone
.1 Rose 2 Nerol
126 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Cassis Fragrance B
12 Kephalis .1 Leaf Acetal
5 Cashmeran 3 Thesaron
21 Hidroxicitronelal 6 Orangeflor
75 Ionone For Soap Base 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
1 Rosone 1 Bois Amberene Forte
23 Eugenol 3 Eugenyl Acetate
14 Laurine Extra 2 Cassis Fragrance B
2 Magnol 37 Linalyl Acetate
319 Di Propylene Glycol
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol 1,000
6 Geraniol 80 %
3 Mallow
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 Fruitaleur

155

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 8a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Rose Crystals 33 Linalol Pur
55 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 3 Di Hydro Coumarex
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
35 DEP 3 Troenan
4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang III
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
9 Vanilys 5 Cassis Fragrance
2 Cashmeran .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
110 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Jasmon Oil M/F .3 Tubereuse 181
11 Super Cepionate 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
2 Methyl Benzoate 6 Lyral
105 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Wardia
1 Iso Eugenol ( Carnation ) .1 Geraniol 600
6 Citronellol 70 % 2 Pearalate
7 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Acetate de Neryle
36 Geraniol Savon
27 Eugenol / Clove
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
6 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less MD
1 Carnaline
4 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal

156

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 8b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Rose Crystals 33 Linalol Pur
55 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 3 Helional
.1 Vanilla Resinoid 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
.1 Cinnamic Alcohol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
35 DEP 3 Troenan
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 19 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang III
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
9 Vanillin 5 Cassis Fragrance
2 Musk TM II .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
110 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Jasmon Oil M/F .3 Tubereuse 181
11 MDJ Super 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate
2 Methyl Benzoate 5 Laurinal
105 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Wardia
1 Carnaline .1 Geraniol 600
6 Citronellol 70 % 2 Pearalate
7 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Neryle Acetato
36 Geraniol 970
27 Eugenol / Clove
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
6 Jasmin EG
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less MD
1 Eugenyl Acetate
4 Ionone Alpha Refined
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.2 Alcohol C - 10
7 Vert de Cassis Givco

157

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 8c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Rose Crystals 29 Linalol Pur
55 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 3 Di Hydro Coumarex
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 2 Lyral
.1 Anisylalcohol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 DEP 3 Troenan
4 Acetato D’Iso Eugenyl 20 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang III
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
9 Vanilys 5 Cassis Fragrance
2 Cashmeran .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
110 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Carnation Oil M/F .3 Tubereuse 181
11 Super Cepionate 2 Isoeugenol
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Methyl Benzoate 6 Lyral
115 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Wardia - Firmenich
1 Iso Eugenol ( Carnation ) .1 Iso Rose
6 Citronellol 70 % 2 Anapear
7 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Acetate de Neryle
36 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less MD
1 Carnaline
4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Stemone

158

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 8d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

43 Coumarin Crystals 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Benzophenone 33 Linalol 98 %
55 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 3 Methyl Lavender Ketone
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
35 DEP 3 Hyacinth PP
4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 18 Orange Blossom Base
2 Damascenone ( Firm ) .1 Ylang Ylang III
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
31 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
8 Vanilys 5 Cassis Fragrance
4 Cashmeran .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
114 Hydroxycitronellal 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Jasmin 8188 - 1 .3 Tubereuse 181
11 MDJ ( Mehyl Di Hydro Jasmonate ) 2 Methyl Dianthanol
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
2 Methyl Benzoate 6 Lyral
105 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Wardia
1 Iso Eugenol ( Carnation ) .1 Geraniol 600
6 Citronellol 70 % 2 Pearalate
7 Hydroxy Citronellal 4 Geranyl Acetate
36 Geraniol ( 970 ) Pure
27 Carnation Base
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
6 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less MD
1 Carnaline
4 Ionone Alpha
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bois Amberene Forte

159

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 8e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

3 Rose Crystals 33 Linalol Pur
55 Etilen Brassilato 3 Di Hydro Coumarex
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 2 Melonyl 85471 VMF
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 Troenan
4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 17 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang III
9 Benzyl Propionate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
33 Benzyl Acetate Pure 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 y - Irone 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Iridales
9 Vanilys 5 Cassis Fragrance
2 Cashmeran .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
110 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Iso Jasmon .3 Tubereuse 181
11 Super Cepionate 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
2 Methyl Benzoate 7 Lyral
105 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Wardia
1 ( Carnation ) .1 Geraniol 600
6 Citronellol 70 % 2 Pearalate
7 Hydroxy Citronellal Dma 4 Acetate de Neryle
36 Geraniol Savon
27 Eugenol
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
6 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less MD
1 Carnaline
3 Ionone Alpha
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Petilyn

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 9a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 27 Ethyl Linalool

10 Benzyl Benzoate 16 Orange Blossom Base
47 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Iso Rose
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Tangerinol
5 Vanillin 15 Phenylethylalcohol
11 Amyris Oil Extra - Payan Bertrand 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 4 Top Muguet
51 Coumane 2 Kir Base # 9741
6 Iso & Super .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Flor
1 Heliotropine 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
51 Benzyl Acetate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Sensient
4 Fleuramone 10 Linalyl Acetate Extra
7 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Fleuramone
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Florantone T
108 Hydroxycitronellol .1 Galbanum Absolue
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Hedione
6 Lilivert 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Citronellol Prime
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur
7 Lyral 1,000
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base
7 Benzylacetate
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 y - Irone
24 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Iso Jasmon
1 Geraniol Pure
5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Methy Octyne Carbonate Substitute
3 Orangeflor
5 Wardia
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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 9b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 27 Ethyl Linalool

10 Benzyl Benzoate 16 Orange Blossom Base
47 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Iso Rose
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Tangerine Oil Florida
5 Vanillin 15 Phenylethylalcohol
11 Sandolen 3 Geranyl Acetate
23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 5 Mugone S 207 M
51 Coumane 2 Kir Base # 9741
6 Iso & Super .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Flor
1 Heliotropine 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
51 Benzyl Acetate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Sensient
4 Fleuramone 7 Linalyl Acetate Extra
7 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 2, 6 Nonadienal 1 al
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Florantone T
110 Hydroxycitronellal .1 Galbanum Absolue
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Hedione
6 Lilivert 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Citronellol Prime
1 Woodynol II
8 Lyral 1,000
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base
7 Benzyl Acetate
6 Ionone Alpha Refined
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 y - Irone
24 Geraniol ( 970 ) Pure
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
7 Jasmony Acetate
1 Geraniol 60
5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Methy Octyne Carbonate Substitute
3 Orangeflor
5 Wardia
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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 9c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 27 Ethyl Linalool

10 Benzyl Benzoate 16 Orange Blossom Base
47 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Palmarosa India
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Tangerinol
5 Vanillin 15 Phenylethylalcohol
11 Sandalore 3 Geranyl Acetate
23 Benzyl Propionate 4 Lioral
51 Coumane 2 Kir Base # 9741
6 Iso & Super .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Flor
1 Heliotropine 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
51 Benzyl Acetate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Sensient
4 Fleuramone 10 Linalyl Acetate Extra
7 Florasantal .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Florantone T
108 Hydroxycitronellol .1 Galbanum Absolue
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Wardia
6 Lilivert 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Citronellol Prime
1 Osyrol
7 Lyral 1,000
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base
7 Benzylacetate
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 y - Irone
24 Geraniol 98 %
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Iso Jasmon
1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Violiff
3 Orangeflor
5 Apple Blossom
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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 9d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 27 Ethyl Linalool

10 Hercolyn - D 16 Orange Blossom Base
44 Traseolide 100 Base 3 Rose Acetate ( Rose Crysals )
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Tangerinol
5 Vanillin 15 Phenylethylalcohol
11 Amyris Oil Extra - Payan Bertrand 3 Geranyl Acetate FCC
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 2 Mugone S 207 M
48 Coumane 2 Kir Base # 9741
6 Anthea Sandal Coeur .4 Methyl Tuberate
7 Hydrofix L 1 Orange Flor
1 Heliotropine 3 Palmarosa, India
50 MDJ Super ( Methyl D Hydro Jas. ) 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Petilyn
4 Fleuramone 10 Linalyl Acetate Pur
7 Amyris Oil West Indies .1 Anisyl Alcohol
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Florantone T
114 Hydroxycitronellol .1 Galbanum Absolue
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Alcohol C - 09 1 Hedione
6 Lilivert 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Citronellol Prime
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur
7 Lyral 1,000
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base
7 Benzylacetate
9 alpha Ionone
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 y - Irone
24 Geraniol Coeur
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Jasmonil
1 Geraniol Pure
5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
.1 Methy Octyne Carbonate Substitute
3 Orangeflor
5 Rhodinol
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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 9e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 27 Ethyl Linalool

10 Benzyl Benzoate 19 Orange Blossom Base
47 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Iso Rose
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Tangerine Oil Florida
5 Vanillin 12 Phenylethylalcohol
11 Sandal Wood Oil 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 4 Lyrame Super
51 Coumane 2 Kir Base # 9741
6 MCKhac .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Flor
1 Heliotropine 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
51 Benzyl Acetate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Stemone
4 Folrosia 11 Linalyl Acetate Extra
7 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Florantone T
108 Hydroxycitronellol .1 Galbanum Absolue
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Phyllos - Bell Flavors & Fragrances
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
6 Lilivert 2 Bourgenal
3 Citronellol Prime
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur
7 Lyral 1,000
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base
7 Benzylacetate
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Jasmonil
1 Geraniol Pure
5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Folione
3 Orangeflor
5 Alpha Damascone
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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 10a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Ethylene Brassylate - Musk T 3 Laurine Extra
9 Benzyl Salicylate 22 Linalol
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol .5 Rhodinol - Natural Isolate
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
47 Galaxolide 50 3 Neroli Artessence
8 Vanillin 17 Geraniol Pure
7 Hydroxyciol 8 Orange Blossom Base
6 Sandranol 4 Geranyl Acetate
45 Benzyl Acetate 6 Cassis Fragrance
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Beta Damascone 3 Jasmin Oil P.G.
4 Anisaldehyde 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia
116 Hydroxycitronellol 2 Irisone Bis
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil of Texas ( White )
7 Methyl Benzoate 38 Linalyl Acetate
9 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
4 Citronellol 850 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
15 Lilivert 1 Rosilial
1 Cashmeran .1 Leaf Alcohol
8 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 1 Muguet Alcohol - Symrise
3 Sandasweet 3 Bergamal
28 Rose for Soap Base
11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
299 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Eugenol
1 Geranium Rose Egyptian
3 Myraldyl Acetate
77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Aldehyde
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Lacton Jasmon
3 Massoia Ecorce - India

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 10b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumane 8 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

7 Musk T - Takasago 3 Laurine Extra
9 Benzyl Salicylate 22 Linalol 98 %
4 Heliotropine .5 Rhodinol - Natural Isolate
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
45 Galaxolide 50 3 Neroli Artessence
8 Vanillin 17 Geraniol Pure
7 Hydroxyciol 8 Orange Blossom Base
6 Sandalwood Oil West Indies 4 Geranylacetate
45 Benzyl Acetate 3 Cassis Fragrance B
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Beta Damascone 3 Jasmin Etiola Givco 271
4 Anisaldehyde 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia
119 Hydroxycitronellol 2 Irisone Bis
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil of Texas ( White )
7 Methyl Benzoate 35 Linalyl Acetate
9 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Tangerinol
4 Citronellol 850 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
15 Liral 1 Amyl Salicylate
1 Cashmeran .1 Leaf Alcohol
8 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 1 Muguet Alcohol - Symrise
3 Sandasweet 2 Bergamal
28 Rose for Soap Base
11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
299 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Eugenol
1 Geranium Rose India
3 Myraldyl Acetate
77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Aldehyde
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Jasmonil
3 Massoia Ecorce - India

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 10c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Helional - IFF 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Musk T 3 Laurine Extra
9 Benzyl Salicylate 22 Linalol
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol .5 Meranol
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
47 Galaxolide 50 3 Neroli Artessence
8 Vanillin 19 Geraniol Pure
7 Hydroxyciol 8 Orange Blossom Base
6 Sandalwood Oil W.I. 4 Geranyl Acetate
45 Benzyl Acetate 6 Cassis Fragrance
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Damascone 3 Jasmin Oil P.G.
4 Anisaldehydedimethylacetal 5 Vetiver Oil Java
119 Hydroxycitronellol 2 Irisone Bis
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 18 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil of Texas ( White )
7 Methyl Benzoate 38 Linalyl Acetate
9 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
4 Citronellol 850 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
15 Lilivert 1 Meijiff
1 Musk Emeressence .1 Leaf Alcohol
8 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 1 Muguet Alcohol - Symrise
3 Sandasweet 3 Bergamot Oil FCC
28 Rose for Soap Base
11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
299 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Eugenol
1 Geranium Rose Egyptian
3 Myraldyl Acetate
77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Aldehyde
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Jasmon
3 Massoia Ecorce - India

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Jasmin

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 10d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

42 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Ethylene Brassylate - Musk T 3 Lyral
9 Benzyl Salicylate 22 Linalol
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol .5 Rhodinol - Natural Isolate
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
47 Galaxolide 50 3 Methyl Jasmonate
8 Vanillin 17 Geraniol Pure
7 Hydroxyciol 8 Orange Blossom Base
6 Sandalwood Oliffac 4 Geranyl Acetate
45 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 6 Cassifix
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Beta Damascone 3 Jasmin Oil P.G.
4 Anisaldehyde 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia
118 Hydroxycitronellal 55 2 Irisone Bis
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 15 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil of Texas ( White )
7 Methyl Benzoate 36 Linalyl Acetate
9 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
4 Citronellol 850 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
13 Lilivert 1 Neroli Artessence
1 Cashmeran .1 Leaf Alcohol
8 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 1 Muguet Alcohol - Symrise
3 Sandasweet 3 Bergamal
30 Rose for Soap Base
11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
25 Eugenol
1 Geranium Rose Bourbon
3 Myraldyl Acetate
77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Aldehyde
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Benzyl Acetate Pure
3 Massoia Ecorce - India

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Jasmin # 10e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarin 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Ethylene Brassylate 3 Iso Jasmone Pure
9 Benzyl Salicylate 22 Linalool
4 Heliotropine .5 Iso Rose
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
45 Traseolide 100 Base 2 Neroli Oliffac
8 Vanillin 17 Geraniol Pure
7 Lioral 8 Orange Blossom Base
6 Sandiff - IFF 5 Geranyl Acetate
45 Benzyl Acetate 6 Cassis Fragrance
11 alpha - Amil Cinnamic Aldeido .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Jasmin Oil P.G.
4 Anisaldehyde 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia
116 Hydroxycitronellol 2 Irisone Bis
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 19 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil of Fla. Cold Pressed
7 Methyl Benzoate 38 Linalyl Acetate
9 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Tangerine Dancy Type
4 Citronellol 850 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
17 Lilivert 1 Rosilial
1 Musk Emeressence .1 Leaf Alcohol
8 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 1 DMBC - Acetato
3 Sandalwood Oil New Caledonia 3 Jasmonyl LG
28 Rose for Soap Base
11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
299 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Eugenol
1 Geranium Rose Egyptian
3 Myraldyl Acetate
75 Ionone Alpha 60
3 Muguet Aldehyde
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Jasilyn
3 Massoia Ecorce - India

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Muguet ( Lily of the Valley )

Convallaria majalis, commonly stems called rhizomes. New upright some botanists.
known as the lily-of-the-valley, is a shoots are formed at the ends of
poisonous woodland flowering stolons in summer, these upright Convallaria majalis var. keiskei -
plant native throughout the cool dormant stems are often called from China and Japan, with red
temperate Northern Hemisphere in pips. These grow in the spring into fruit and bowl-shaped flowers (now
Asia and Europe. new leafy shoots that still remain widely cited as Convallaria keiskei)
connected to the other shoots under
It is possibly the only species in the ground, often forming extensive C. majalis var. majalis - from
genus Convallaria (or one of two or colonies. The stems grow to 15–30 Eurasia, with white midribs on the
three, if C. keiskei and C. transcau- cm tall, with one or two leaves flowers
casica are recognised as separate 10–25 cm long, flowering stems
species). In the APG III system, the have two leaves and a raceme of C. majalis var. montana - from the
genus is placed in the family 5–15 flowers on the stem apex. The USA, with green-tinted midribs on
Asparagaceae, sub family flowers are white tepals (rarely the flowers
Nolinoideae (formerly the family pink), bell-shaped, 5–10 mm diam-
Ruscaceae). It was formerly placed eter, and sweetly scented; flowering Convallaria transcaucasica is
in its own family Convallariaceae, is in late spring, in mild winters in recognised as a distinct species by
or earlier, like many lilioid mono- the Northern Hemisphere it is in some authorities, while the species
cots, in the lily family Liliaceae. early March. The fruit is a small formerly called Convallaria japoni-
orange-red berry 5–7 mm diameter ca is now classified as Ophiopogon
A limited native population occurs that contains a few large whitish to japonicus.
in Eastern USA (Convallaria brownish colored seeds that dry to a
majalis var. montana). There is, clear translucent round bead 1–3 Garden Use
however, some debate as to the mm wide. Plants are self-sterile,
native status of the American vari- and colonies consisting of a single
Convallaria majalis is a popular
ety. clone do not set seed. garden plant, grown for its scented
flowers and for its ground-covering
Description Taxonomy abilities in shady locations. Some
consider it a weed, as it can spread
C. majalis is a herbaceous perenni- There are three varieties that have over a wide area in gardens and can
al plant that forms extensive sometimes been separated out as be difficult to contain or remove.
colonies by spreading underground distinct species or subspecies by

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 Glen O. Brechbill
Various kinds and cultivars are Lady's tears, since, according to
grown, including those with double Christian legend, the lily of the val-
flowers, rose-colored flowers, var- ley came into being from Eve's
iegated foliage and ones that grow tears after she was driven with
larger than the typical species. Adam from the Garden of Eden,
although this seems unlikely, since
C. majalis 'Albostriata' has white- in Catholic parlance, "Our Lady"
striped leaves refers to the Virgin Mary. Another
Christian legend states that Mary's
C. majalis 'Green Tapestry', tears turned to lily of the valley
'Haldon Grange', 'Hardwick Hall', when she cried at the crucifixion of
'Hofheim', 'Marcel', 'Variegata' and Jesus, and because of this it is also
'Vic Pawlowski's Gold' are other known as Mary's tears. According
variegated cultivars to another legend, lilies of the val-
ley also sprang from the blood of
C. majalis 'Berlin Giant' and C. Saint Leonard of Noblac during his
majalis 'Géant de Fortin' (syn. battles with a dragon.
'Fortin's Giant') are larger-growing
cultivars The name "lily of the valley" is also
used in some English translations
C. majalis 'Flore Pleno' has double of the Bible in Song of Songs 2:1,
flowers. although whether or not the
Hebrew word "shoshana" (usually
C. majalis 'Rosea' sometimes found denoting a rose) originally used
under the name C. majalis var. there refers to this species is uncer-
rosea, has pink flowers. tain.
Traditionally Convallaria majalis It is a symbol of humility in reli-
has been grown in pots and winter gious painting. Lily of the valley is
forced to provide flowers during considered the sign of Christ's sec-
the winter months, both for as pot- ond coming. The power of men to
ted plants and as cut flowers. envision a better world was also
attributed to the lily of the valley.
All parts of the plant are poisonous
and the red berries may be attrac- Norse mythology
tive to children; if eaten even in
small amounts, the plant can cause
In Norse mythology lilies are asso-
abdominal pain, vomiting, and a ciated with the virgin goddess of
reduced heart rate. spring Ostara. The lily symbolizes
life to Pagans and the blooming of
Christian Legend lily of the valley flower heralds the
feast of Ostara. The sweet fra-
The flower is also known as Our grance and whiteness of the flowers
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symbolize the humility and purity
of its patron goddess
Other names and legends
Other names include May lily, May
bells, lily constancy, ladder-to-
heaven, male lily, and muguet
( French ).
Its scientific name, majalis or
maialis, means "of or belonging to
May", and old astrological books
place the plant under the dominion
of Mercury, since Maia, the daugh-
ter of Atlas, was the mother of
Mercury or Hermes.
In the "language of flowers", the
lily of the valley signifies the return
of happiness. Legend tells of the
affection of a lily of the valley for a
nightingale that did not come back
to the woods until the flower
bloomed in May.[citation needed]
[edit] Symbolic uses
Traditionally, lily of the valley is
sold in the streets of France on May
1.
Lily of the valley was the floral
emblem of Yugoslavia and it also
became the national flower of
Finland in 1967.
The Norwegian municipality
Lunner has a lily of the valley in its
coat-of-arms. It is the official
flower of Alpha Delta Phi fraterni-
ty, Pi Kappa Alpha fraternity,
Kappa Sigma fraternity, Delta
Omicron fraternity, Alpha Epsilon
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Phi sorority, and Alpha Phi sorority. (0.88 %), green-grassy notes: (Z)-
It is also the official flower of Job's 3-hexen-1-ol (11 %), (Z)-3-hexenyl
Daughters International. acetate (7.8 %), (Z)-3-hexenal
(trace) and (E)-2-hexenal
Lily-of-the-valley
(0.18 %), green pea and galbanum-
Convallaria majalis (Liliaceae) like notes: 2-isopropyl-3-
methoxypyrazine (trace) and 2-
Lily-of-the-valley is a flower of the i s o b u t y l - 3 - m e t h o x y p y r a z i n e
forest-floor on poor and calcareous (trace), fatty, waxy, aldehydic
soil. In Scania in southern Sweden, notes: octanal (0.15 %), nonanal
for example, it is found in dense (0.1 %), decanal (0.07 %) and
stands close to the bed-rock. Lily- fruity, raspberry notes: beta-ionone
of-the-valley is widely distributed (trace). In another study of lily-of-
in the northern hemisphere. The the-valley, phenylacetaldehyde
whole plant is poisonous. oxime was identified.

The intense and elegant fragrance Etymologi: Lat. convallis, valley;

of the flowers may be described as Lat. majalis, belonging to May or
"delicately floral, with a distinct blooming in May. In France lily-of-
touch of greenness, surrounded by the-valley is called muguet.
fresh, rosy-lemony nuances"
about new, artificial lily-of-the-val-
In a study on the headspace of lily- ley odorants
of-the-valley flowers using GC-MS
and GC-sniffing/GC-olfactometry Already in 1908 it was discovered
techniques, Brumke, Ritter and that the compound 3,7-dimethyl-7-
Schmaus from the company hydroxyoctanal or hydroxycitronel-
Dragoco (today Symrise, Germany) lal has a beautiful lily-of-the-val-
identified some 23 compounds con- ley-like odour. This famous odorant
tributing to the lily-of-the-valley is used in countless perfumes for
fragrance, among these several this nuance. Unfortunately it is
newly detected trace constituents rather unstable and has shown up to
[210]. The odorants could be divid- be slightly allergenic, so its use
ed into floral-rosy-citrusy notes: level is restricted. Alcohols are
citronellol (9.6 %), geraniol more stable, and a number of suc-
(8.4%), nerol (1.3 %), citronellyl cessful alternatives have been
acetate (1.1 %), geranyl acetate (3.3 developed, Mayol ® and Florol ®
%), geranial + benzyl acetate (0.96 being examples.
%), neral (0.02 %), benzyl acohol
(35 %), phenethyl alcohol (0.78 %),
phenylacetonitrile (3.0 %), farnesol
(1.9 %) and 2,3-dihydrofarnesol

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Muguet Fragrance Chemicals

BOOK # 1 ( A - G ) Augustus Oils Ltd. - U.K. Bell Flavors & Fragrances - USA

Alfa Chem - USA Green Base Augaflor 10 Lilie

Hydroxycitronellal Muguet Augaflor 16 Hydroxycitronellal

Methyl Anthranilate
Lily Aldehyde Basf - Germany
Berje Inc. - USA
Anupam Industries - India Hydroxyciol
Hydroxycitronellal Hydroxycitronellal
Green Acetate Hydroxy Citronellal Dma
Lysmeral Hydroxycitronellal For Soap
Hydroxycitronellol Hydroxycitronellal Fractions
Hydroxy Extra Nerolidol
Brighten Colorchem - The Neth.
Leaf Acetal Basf - Japan Ltd. - Japan
Liffarome Hydroxy Citronellal
Lilial Hydroxyciol
Lolitol Hydroxycitronellal Lilial
Lyral
Lyrame Jasmorange Lyral
Jasmorange F
Neo Folione Carrubba Inc. - USA
Lysmeral
Stemone Lily of the Valley
Bedoukian Research, Inc. - USA
Aromatics Adl - France Champon Vanilla, Inc. - USA
Hydroxy Citronellal
Hydroxycitronellal A Di Methyl Acetal Hydroxycironellal
Hydroxycitronellal Pur
Lyral

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

China Perfumer - China Trifernal The Good Scent Co. - USA

Givaudan Fragrance - Switz. Fleurchem, Inc. - USA Lilyall

Florhydral Hydroxycitronellal FLORAL - BY NOTE

Lilial Flexitral, Inc. - USA Hydroxycitronelall

Hydroxycitronellal Di Ethyl Acetal
Quest International - Givaudan Lioral Hydroxycitronellal Di Methyl A.
Hydroxycitronellal / Methyl Anth.
Hydroxycitronellal Substitute Givaudan Fragrance Corp. - Switz. Hydroxycitronellol

Citral Oleos Essenciais - Brazil Dossinia Givco 167 PFM Lily

Lily Absolute
Hidroxicitronelal Florhydral Lily of the Valley
Lily of the Valley Absolute
Lilial Glycolierral Lily Propanol
Lyral Lilyall
Silvial Lilyall / Methyl Anthranilate
Esencias y Materiales - Mexico Stemone
Muguet Butanal
Hidroxicitronelal Quest Int. ( Givaudan ) - Switz. Muguet Butanol
Muguet Carbaldehyde
Lilial Anther Muguet Carboxaldehyde
Lyral Muguet Ethanol
Dorina SA Muguet Nitrile
Essencia, Aetherische - Switz. Dupical Muguet Oxtadienol
Muguet Propanol
Folrosia Efetaal Muguet Shiseol
Elintaal
Hydroxycitronellal Elintaal Forte Graham Chemical Corp. - USA
Hydroxycitronellal
Di Methyl Acetal Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB 2040 Lily Aldehyde

Lilial Petilyn Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd., - UK

Lyral
Global Essence Ltd. - U.K. Hydroxycitronellol
Firmenich SA - Switz.
Hydroxy Citronellal - Usa
Doremox
Dorina SA E Muguet Aldehyde
( Empetaal, Myraldene,
Feuillage Vert Base 47661 Myrac Aldehyde ) - Usa

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BOOK # II ( I - Z ) Lothar Streek - Germany Raj Aromatics Corp. - India

IPRA Fragrances - France Lilial IFF

Hydroxycitronellal Stemone Lyral

Ex - Citriodora
Hydroxycitronellal Millennium Chemicals - USA SRS Aromatics Ltd. - UK
Ex - Citronnelle
Hydroxycitronellal Pure FCC SPECIALTY BASES
Innospc Inc. - USA
PFW Aroma Chemicals - The Neth. Lyronalia 3917 P
Hydroxycitronellal A
Hydroxycitronellal Pure 55 Floralyn Mugone S 207 M

Lilestralis Petit Marie - Brazil AROMA CHEMICALS

Lilestralis 22
Lilivert Hidroxi Citronelal Hydroxycitronellal BM
Hidroxi Citronelal Di Metil Actal Hydroxycitronellal Pure
Melfloral Hydroxy Dimethyl Acetal
Methoxycitronellal PQ Lilial
Liral Lilanate 3275 P
IFF - USA Lilial / Methyl Anthranilate
Stemone
Lyral Sundial Fragrances - USA
Lyrame Polarome International - USA
Lyrame Super Hydroxycitronellal BM/CJ 99 %
Lily Aldehyde Hydroxycitronellal Pure 99 %
Meijiff FCC
Melafleur Prodasynth - France
Symrise GmbH & Co. - Germany
Joint American Ventures - USA Hydroxycitronellal
Hydroxycitronellol Farnesol Special
Hydroxycitronellal Hydroxy Diethyl Acetal
Farnesyl Acetate
Lluche Essence - Spain RAI Ingredients - Brazil
Mugetanol
Hydroxycitronellal Florhydral Muguet Aldehyde
Hydroxycitronellal DMA
Hydroxycitronellol Lilial Synarome - France

Liral Myraldyl Acetate Hydroxycitroenllal

Di Ethyl Acetal

Muguet Des Bois 11793

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Takasago International Corp. - Japan Muguesia

Muguet Aldehyde 50 DEP - IFF
Heliobouquet Muguet Aldehyde 50 IPM - IFF

Kovanol Stemone - Givaudan

1-Laurinal Walsh, John D., Co. - USA

Laurinal
Hydroxycitronellal
Taytonn Pte Ltd. - Singapore Hydroxycitronellol
Hydroxyol
IFF
Lilestralis
Lyral Lilivert
Lyral
Hydroxycitronellal
Wambesco Gmbh - Denmark
Lilestrallis Ordinary
Lilestrallis 22 Hydroxycitronellal “E”
Lilivert Hydroxycitronellal Ex Citronellal
Hydroxycitronellal Di Ethyl Acetal
Trisenx, Inc. - USA Hydroxycitronellal Di Methyl
Acetal
Hydroxycitronellal Hydroxycitronellol synthetic

Lilial
Lyral

Ventos, Ernesto S.A. - Spain

IFF

Hydroxycitronellol ( Hydroxiol )

AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Hydroxycitronellal - BASF
Hydroxycitronellal Di Ethyl Acetal
Hydroxycitronellol - IFF
( Hydroxiol )

Lily Alcohol ( Muguet Alcohol )

Meijiff

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Green Notes

Acetate C - 9 Powerful fruity green leafy.

Aldehyde C - 6 Powerful fatty green grassy odor.

Aldehyde C - 8 Soft woody green mildly floral odor.

Alfania Base 38228 If a compound based on alfalfa most likely green or herbal.

Ambrose Abs. A very strong green floral type fragrance.

A C A Di Methyl Acetal Peculiar animal green odor.

Amyl Salicylate Sweet herbaceous green slightly floral.

Anisyl Formate Sweet herbaceous green somewhat dry odor.

Armoise Oil Herbaceous green.

Balinol A green floral compound.

Benzyl Formate Powerful fruity green herbaceous.

Bois Amberene Forte Green floral odor.

Bourgeon De Cassis Green.

Cassis Base 345 B A green fruity floral character.

Cassis Fragrance Strong green fruity floral fragrance.

CIS 3 Hexenyl Acetate Intensely green sharp fruity, very diffusive, dilution - banana.

CIS 3 Hexenyl Benzoate Mild, but tenacious green herbaceous woody odor.

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CIS 3 Hexyl Alcohol Powerful, and intensely green grassy odor.

CIS 3 Hexyl Salicylate. Sweet, slightly green balsamic odor.

Citralva Powerful oily green lemony fresh odor.

Citronellal Powerful fresh green citrusy, slight woody odor.

Citronellyl Formate Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light Rem of geranium rose.

Cortex Aldehyde Powerful green woody sap like, but fresh aldehydic sweet.

Cumin Aldehyde Extremely powerful diffusive green spicy, slightly fatty odor.

Cuminic Aldehyde Pungent green herbaceous odor.

Cyclal - C Powerful green leafy floral odor.

Cyclamen Aldehyde Diffusive powerful floral green stem like odor.

Cyclo Galbonate Strong herbaceous green.

Decatone A strong green odor.

Di Ethyl Malonate Sweet pleasant fruity green reminiscent of apples.

Di M Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol Soft floral green.

Di Phenyl Oxide Harsh floral green.

Ethyl Levlulinate Ethereal fruity, somewhat green and sweet odor.

Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate Powerful diffusive green fruity pungent odor Rem of apple peels.

Farnesol Mildly floral delicately sweet oily fresh green odor.

Feuillage Vert Base 47.062 Green floral base possessing a cool natural freshness.

Fleuroxene A strong green floral woody nondescript odor.

Floral N A soft slightly green floral odor.

Floromat A floral green type odor.

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Floropal Herbal fresh floral green.

Florosa A light sweet delicately floral green fragrance.

Florosia A light sweet green floral.

Galbanum Oil Spring green leafy like.

Galbex 183 Woody green herbaceous odor.

Geranium Bourbon Green leafy rosy strong.

Geranyl Acetone Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green.

Geranyl Formate Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor.

Grapefruit Body Fleurom Extremely powerful green grapefruit odor.

Gyrane A diffusive herbal green type odor.

Heptavert A green woody odor.

Herbaflorat Green sweet fruity.

Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate Oily sweet fruity green apple, and galbanum like odor.

Hexyl Benzoate Woody green piney balsamic odor.

Homo Cumminic Aldehyde 50 Pw, diffusive green twiggy effect with cut grass hedge like odor.

Hyacinth Body Powerful leafy green with hyacinth note.

Hydratropic Aldehyde Very powerful penetrating green earth foilage.

Hydratropic A D M Acetal Powerful, earthy warm spicy green deep fruity odor.

Hydrofix L Sweet floral lily with a fresh green dry out.

Hydroxycitronellal X Citronellol Muguet sweet floral green, citrusy fresh.

Iso Cyclo Citral Powerful and diffusive floral green.

Jacintheme 135 SA Reminiscent of the green floral heart of hyacinth.

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Leaf Acetal Extra Powerful oily green odor with a sweet vegetable undertone.

Leaf Acetate Intensely green diffusive odor.

Leaf Alcohol Powerful fruity green slightly fruity.

Leaf Salicylate Sweet, slightly green balsamic odor.

Liffarome Violet green.

Ligustral Fresh green.

Lilial Sweet yet refreshing floral green.

Lile Strallis 22 Fresh light green floral, reminiscent of lilial.

Linalyl Formate Fresh citrusy green bergamot like.

Lyral Delicately sweet, light and floral.

Mallow A slightly green sweet floral fragrance.

Mayol A sweet green floral material.

Melon Enhancer A diffusive green melon type odor.

Melonyl 86471 VMF A very nice light sweet green melon odor very diffusive.

Methyl Heptenone Extra Fruity green slightly waxy.

Methyl Hexyl Ketone Pleasant floral bitter green, slightly musty.

Methyl Octine Carbonate Green violet leaf like.

Methyl Phenyl Carbinol Earth green reminiscent of gardenia and hyacinth.

Mimosa Abs. Essence A green floral delicately mimosa like.

Muguet Aldehyde 50 Diffusive green muguet lily type odor.

Nerolidol Mild and delicately floral slight green reminiscent of apple lily.

Nerolidyl Acetate Sweet woody and mildly refreshing green.

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Olibanum Oil Strongly diffusive fresh terpeney green.

Orris Resinoid A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.

Phenyl Acetaldehyde Powerful green wood sap like.

Phenyl A Glycerine Acetal Peculiar oily green earthy ranty, but mild and sweet.

Phenyl Di Methyl Acetal Powerful green earthy flower stem like odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Acetal Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.

Phenyl Propyl Acetate Fresh floral powerful fruity green.

Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde Floral hyacinth, lilac, balsamic green.

Rhodinyl Formate Fresh leafy green delicate rosy.

Rhodinyl Valerate Heavy fruity, slight earthy green, but also sweet odor.

Rose Crystals Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor.

Scentenal Powerful green refreshing watery floral.

Stemone Green slightly herbaceous odor.

Strallyl Acetate Powerful and penetrating green floral in dilution.

Strallyl Propionate Balsamic green floral type odor.

Syringa Aldehyde Powerful and refreshing green fruity forest like sweet odor.

Taget Abs. Intensely herbaceous green with a sweet fruity undertone.

Tolyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity and mildly green.

Trans 2 Hexenyl Acetate Powerful and fresh green sweet fruity very natural odor.

Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate Powerful herbaceous green and fresh woody odor.

Undecavertol Strong, however not over powering slightly green floral odor.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Vern Aldehyde Fresh green.

Vetchouli Green herbaceous odor.

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Substitute 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

36 Coumarine Chine 7 Ionone Alpha 60
9 Vanillin 5 Citronellol 850
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Undecatriene
.1 Civet Tincture 1 Florantone T
27 Musk R - 1 36 Geraniol 970
2 Anthea Sandal Coeur .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Orange Flower Base
3 Rose Crystals 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
6 Methyl Benzoate 9 Laurine
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Nerol Petals
1 Rhodinol - X .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
134 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Iso Jasmon
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .8 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Rose Oil - Morocco
4 Irotyl .1 Tea Essence
26 Carnation Base 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
3 Melon Org 3 Parmanyl
5 Hidroxcitronelal 5 C - 14 “ Peach “
72 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Eugenyl Acetate
18 Lily of the Valley 1 Petilyn
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Fleuramone
307 Di Propylene Glicol .2 Geranyl Acetate
3 Methyl Dianthanol 1 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar
20 Tuberose Substitute
3 Geranodyle
4 Lioral 1,000
2 Ionone Alpha 60
24 Ethylene Brassylate
57 Benzyl Acetate Pure
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Substitute 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

36 Coumarin 7 Ionone Alpha 60
9 Vanillin 5 Citronellol 850
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Folione
.1 Civet Tincture 1 Florantone T
27 Musk Ambrette Substitute 35 Geraniol 970
3 Osyrol .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
9 Benzyl Benzoate 7 Orange Flower Base
3 Rose Crystals 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
6 Methyl Benzoate 9 Laurine
8 Sandela 3 Nerol Petals
1 Rhodinol - X .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
132 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 4 Iso Jasmon
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .8 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 3 Scennal
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Rose Oil - Morocco
4 Irisone Bis .1 Tea Essence
26 Carnation Base 5 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
3 Fruitaleur 3 Parmanyl
5 Hidroxcitronelal 5 Aldehyde C - 14
72 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Eugenyl Acetate
18 Lily of the Valley 1 Petilyn
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Fleuramone
307 Di Propylene Glicol .2 Geranyl Acetate
3 Eugenol 2 Vanillyl Alcohol
20 Tuberose Substitute
3 Geranodyle
4 Lioral 1,000
2 Ionone Alpha Refined
21 Ethylene Brassylate
57 Benzyl Acetate Pure
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 10

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Core - Kao Corp. - Japan 15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

36 Coumane 7 Ionone Alpha 60
9 Vanilys - Pfw 5 Citronellol 850
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Undecatriene
.1 Oud Orpur - Givaudan 1 Florantone T
27 Musk Clear 36 Geraniol 970
2 Sandiff .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Orange Flower Base
3 Roseone 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
6 Methyl Benzoate 9 Laurine
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Nerol Petals
1 Rhodinol - X .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
134 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Palmarosa Oil - India
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .8 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde - Alpha 1 Rose Oil - Morocco
4 Irotyl .1 Tea Essence
26 Carnation Base 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
3 Melon Org 3 Parmanyl
5 Hidroxyciol 5 C - 14 “ Peach “
62 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Eugenyl Acetate
18 Mallow 1 Petilyn
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Fleuramone
307 Di Propylene Glicol .2 Geranyl Acetate
3 Methyl Dianthanol 1 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar
28 Tuberose Substitute
3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
4 Lyral 1,000
1 Ionone Alpha
24 Musk 50 DEP
57 Benzyl Acetate Pure
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alpha Damascone

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 1d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Patchouli Old Oil 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

36 Coumarine Chine 7 Irisone Bis
7 Vanillin 5 Citronellol Prime
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Undecatriene
.1 Civet Tincture 1 Florantone T
27 Musk R - 1 36 Geraniol 970
2 Anthea Sandal Coeur .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
9 Benzyl Benzoate 7 Orange Flower Base
3 Rose Crystals 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
9 Methyl Benzoate 9 Muguet Aldheyde
8 Iso E Super 3 Nerol Petals
3 Palmarosa Oil - India .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
136 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Iso Jasmon
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .8 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Rose Oil - Morocco
4 Irotyl .1 Tea Essence
23 Carnation Base 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
3 Apple Oliffac 3 Iris Beurre Oil
5 Hidroxcitronelal 5 C - 14, Aldehyde
70 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Eugenyl Acetate
18 Lily of the Valley 1 Petilyn
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Fleuramone
305 Di Propylene Glicol .2 Geranyl Acetate Prime
3 Methyl Dianthanol 1 Vanilla Resinoid
20 Tuberose Substitute
3 Geranodyle
4 Lysmeral 1,000
2 alpha - Ionone
24 Ethylene Brassylate
57 Benzyl Acetate Pure
8 Cassis Fragrance B
.1 y - Irone

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 1e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberlyn 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

36 Di Hydro Coumarex 7 alpha - Ionone
9 Vanillin 5 Citronellol 850
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Undecatriene
.1 Civet Tincture 1 Florantone T
24 Galaxolide 50 in DEP 40 Geraniol 60
2 Anthea Sandal Coeur .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Orange Flower Base
3 Rose Crystals 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
6 Methyl Benzoate 9 Kovanol
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Nerol Petals
1 Rhodinol - X .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
137 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .8 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Rose Oil - Morocco
4 Irotyl .1 Tea Essence
29 Carnation Base 5 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
8 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
3 Melon Org 3 Neryl Acetate
5 Hidroxcitronelal 5 Aldiedo C - 14
72 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Eugenyl Acetate
18 Lily of the Valley 1 Petilyn
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Fleuramone
307 Di Propylene Glicol .2 Geranyl Acetate
3 Eugenol 100 1 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar
20 Tuberose Substitute
3 Geranodyle
1 Tonka Beans Orpur - Givaudan 1,000
2 Ionone Alpha 60
24 Ethylene Brassylate
55 Benzylacetate
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Iso Jasmone

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Osyrol .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic

5 Ambrox DL 1 Muguet Aldehyde
3 Rose Crystals 3 Ylang Core - IFF
12 Sandalwood Givaudan 53 9 Wardia Substitute
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Cassis Bourgenons
7 Vanilys - Pfw .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
49 Ethylene Brassylate 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
3 Hydroxycitronellal For Soap 4 Cassis Fragrance
8 Galaxolide 50 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
4 Ethyl Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Beta Damascone 2 Cananga Odorata
51 Benzyl Acetate 5 Nectaryl
12 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Rose Crystals 3 Wardia
123 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalol 99 %
26 Eugenol / Clove 4 Neroli - Comoros Island
1 Iso Jasmone 6 Myraldyl Acetate
5 Cyclogalbaniff 3 Irisone Bis
6 Lyral 1 Phyllos
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 6 Orange Oil Sweet
9 Rose Substitute
5 Hedione
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
79 Ionone Intermediate Base
6 Jacinthaflor
2 Benzyl Acetate FCC
300 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 100 %
8 Meijiff
1 Honey Rose Givco 219
.1 Alcohol C - 9
20 Ylang Ylang Substitute
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalyl Acetate
3 Citronellol Natural
12 Orange Blossom Base
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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Osyrol .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic

5 Amborol 50 1 Muguet Aldehyde
3 Rose Crystals 3 Ylang Core - IFF
12 Sandalwood Givaudan 53 11 Wardia Substitute
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Cassis Bourgenons
7 Vanilys - Pfw .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
49 Musk 50 in DEP 11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
3 Hydroxycitronellal For Soap 4 Vert de Cassis Givco 119
8 Galaxolide 50 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
4 Ethyl Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Beta Damascone 2 Cananga Odorata
51 Benzyl Acetate 5 C - 14, Peach ( Aldehyde )
12 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Rosone 3 Wardia
127 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalol 99 %
26 Eugenol / Clove 4 Neroli - Comoros Island
1 Iso Jasmone 6 Myraldyl Acetate
5 Cyclogalbaniff 3 Irisone Bis
2 Stemone 1 Hydroxycitronellal - BASF
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 6 Orange Oil Orpur - France ( G. )
9 Rose Substitute
5 Hedione
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
79 Ionone Intermediate Base
6 Jacinthaflor
2 Benzyl Acetate FCC
300 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 100 %
6 Petilyn
1 Honey Rose Givco 219
.1 Alcohol C - 9
20 Ylang Ylang Substitute
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
4 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalyl Acetate
3 Citronellol Natural
12 Orange Blossom Base
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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Brahmanol F .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic

5 Ambrox DL 1 Muguet Aldehyde
3 Rose Crystals 3 Ylang Core - IFF
12 Sandalwood Givaudan 53 9 Wardia Substitute
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Cassis Bourgenons
7 Vanilys - Pfw .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
49 Ethylene Brassylate 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
3 Hydroxycitronellal For Soap 4 Cassis Fragrance
8 Galaxolide 50 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
4 Vanilys - Pfw .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Beta Damascone 2 Cananga Odorata
51 Benzyl Acetate 5 Nectaryl
10 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Rose Crystals 2 Wardia
127 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 26 Linalol Pure
26 Eugenol / Clove 4 Neroli Oliffac
1 Iso Jasmone 6 Myraldyl Acetate
5 Amyl Salicylate 3 Irisone Bis
6 Lyral 1 Phyllos
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 5 Sweet Orange
9 Rose Substitute
5 Super Cepionate - Zeon Corp. Japan
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
75 Ionone Intermediate Base
6 Jacinthaflor
2 Benzyl Acetate FCC
302 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 60
8 Lyrame Super
1 Honey Rose Givco 219
.1 Jasmin Abs. ( Various Sources )
22 Ylang Ylang Substitute
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Rhodinol X
38 Linalyl Acetate
3 Citronellol Natural
12 Orange Blossom Base
191

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 2d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Osyrol .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic

5 Ambrox DL 1 Muguet Aldehyde
3 Rose Crystals 3 Ylang Core - IFF
12 Sandalwood Givaudan 53 9 Wardia Substitute
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Bois Amberene Forte
7 Vanilys - Pfw .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
49 Ethylene Brassylate 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
3 Hydroxycitronellal For Soap 4 Cassis Fragrance
8 Galaxolide 50 1 Italian Mandarin Orpur - Givaudan
4 Ethyl Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Beta Damascone 2 Iso Jasmone
51 Benzyl Acetate 5 Nectaryl
12 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Rose Crystals 3 Wardia
123 Hydroxycitronellal ( Muguet ) 25 Linalol 99 %
26 Eugenol / Clove 4 Neroli - Comoros Island
1 Jasmonyl Acetate 6 Myraldyl Acetate
5 Cyclogalbaniff 3 y - Irone
6 Jasmin Province Base - LMR 1 Phyllos
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 5 Orange Oil of California
9 Rose Substitute
5 MDJ - Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
79 Ionone Intermediate Base
6 Jacinthaflor
2 Benzyl Acetate FCC
300 Di Propileno Glico
1 Meranol
38 Geraniol 100 %
8 Liral
1 Honey Rose Givco 219
.1 Jasmonil ( Jessemal )
20 Ylang Ylang Substitute
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalyl Acetate
3 Citronellol 80
12 Orange Blossom Base
192

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 2e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Amyris Oil W.I. ( Sandalwood ) .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic

5 Iso E Super 1 Muguet Aldehyde
3 Rose Crystals 3 Fleuramone
12 Sandalwood Givaudan 53 12 Wardia Substitute
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Bourgenal
7 Vanilys - Pfw .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
49 Ethylene Brassylate 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
3 Mugetanol 1 Cassis Fragrance
8 Galaxolide 50 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
4 Ethyl Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Geranium Oil - Chine 2 Cananga Odorata
46 Benzyl Acetate 5 Nectaryl
12 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Rose Crystals 3 Wardia
128 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalol 97 %
24 Eugenol 4 Neroli - Comoros Island
1 Iso Jasmone 6 Myraldyl Acetate
5 Cyclogalbaniff 3 Irisone Bis
7 Mugone S 207 M 1 Phyllos
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 6 Mandarin Israel Orpur - Givaudan
11 Rose Substitute
5 Hedione
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
79 Ionone Intermediate Base
6 Jacinthaflor
2 Benzyl Acetate FCC
300 Di Propileno Glico
1 Rhodinol X
38 Geraniol 60
8 Melafleur
1 Honey Rose Givco 219
.1 Alcohol C - 9
20 Ylang Ylang Substitute
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Rose Acetate
38 Linalyl Acetate
3 Citronellol FCC
12 Orange Blossom Base
193

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Base # 9 24 Linalol

10 Benzyl Alcohol FR 5 Citronellol 850
48 Coumarin Substitute 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
30 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Osyrol 6 Iso Raldeine 70
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % - China .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilys 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Cashmeran 20 Geraniol 60
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate
1 Benzophenone 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Floranton T
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
131 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Pomarose
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
55 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Irisone Bis
5 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
60 Iso Raldeine Substitute 3 Nerol Petals
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Iso Rose
1 Beta Damascone 1 Farnesyl Acetate
2 Vanilla Resinoid 35 Linalyl Acetate
8 Iridales .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
16 Lyral
2 Nerol
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Galaxolide 50 ( DPG )

194

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 2 A 24 Linalol

12 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Citronellol 850
48 Coumarin Substitute 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
30 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Osyrol 6 Irisone Bis
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % - China .1 Orange Flower Water
8 Vanilys 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Cashmeran 20 Geraniol 60
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
17 Hydroxy Citronellol 4 Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanilla Resinoid .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate Coeur
1 Benzophenone 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Floranton T
4 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
131 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Pomarose
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
55 MDJ Super - Methyl Di Hydro Jas. 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Ionone 100 %
3 Coriander Oil 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
60 Iso Raldeine Substitute 3 Nerol Petals
7 Phenylethylalcohol 2 Bourgenal
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Fleur de Rose - Synarome, France
1 Beta Damascone 1 Farnesyl Acetate
2 Vanilla Resinoid 35 Linalyl Acetate
8 Iridales .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
16 Lyral
2 Nerol
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Galaxolide 50 ( DEP )

195

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Artificial # 3D 22 Linalol

10 Benzyl Alcohol FR 5 Citronellol 850
44 Coumarin Crystals 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
30 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Osyrol 6 Iso Raldeine 70
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % - China .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilys 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 20 Geraniol 970
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 4 Iso Eugenol
7 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Neryl Acetate
1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Floranton T
2 Styrax Coeur 5 Wardia
139 Hydroxycitronellal Pure 99 % BCC 1 Pomarose
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
55 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Irisone Bis
5 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
60 Iso Raldeine Substitute 3 Nerol Petals
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Iso Rose
1 Delta Damascone 1 Farnesyl Acetate
2 Vanilla Resinoid 36 Linalyl Acetate
8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
16 Lyonalia 3917 P
2 Nerol
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Musk Ambrette Substitute

196

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 3d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Artificial 24 Linalol 98 %

10 Benzylalcohol 5 Citronellol 850
45 Coumarin Substitute 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
30 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Sandalore 6 Iso Raldeine 70
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % - China .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilys 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Cashmeran 20 Geraniol 60
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure
1 Benzophenone 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Floranton T
5 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
134 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Irisone Bis
28 Eugenol 3 Top Galbanum
52 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Irisone Bis
5 Cinnamon Leaf Oil 1 Methyl Tuberate
60 Iso Raldeine Substitute 3 Orange Blossom Orpur - Givaudan
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Iso Rose
1 Damascenia 185 SA 1 Farnesyl Acetate
2 Vanilla Resinoid 35 Linalyl Acetate
8 Iridales .3 Cassis Fragrance
16 Lyrame
2 Nerol
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Musk Xylene ( IFRA ) - Givaudan

197

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 3e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Base # 9 24 Linalool Special

9 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Citronellol 850
41 Coumane 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
30 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk T
19 Macrolide .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Osyrol 6 Irisone Bis
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % - China .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilys 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Musk 20 Geraniol 970
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
15 Hydroxycitronellal For Soap 4 Jasmine Oil
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate
1 Benzophenone 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Floranton T
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
139 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Iso Rose
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
55 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Lilial
5 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
60 Iso Raldeine Substitute 3 Nerol Petals
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Iso Rose
1 Beta Damascone 1 Farnesyl Acetate
2 Vanilla Resinoid 34 Linalyl Acetate
8 Iridales .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
16 Lyrame Super
2 Lily of the Valley ( Muguet )
.1 Polarose 1,000
28 Cashmeran

198

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Kephalis 3 Aubepine
43 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P .1 Undecavertol
1 Civet Tincture 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Synabran
37 Galbanolide ( Musk ) 9 Orange Blossom Base
6 Kephalis 11 Wardia
7 Vanisal - Flexitrail 3 Apple Juice Givco 114
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
74 Hydroxycitronellal 3 Iris Beurre Oil
1 Heliotropine 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
8 Lyral 1 Hidroxicitronelal
17 Musk Emeressence .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Jasmoneige 1 Meranol
7 Vanillinethyl 4 Cassis Fragrance B
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Stemone
1 Folrosa Q .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
125 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
3 Citronellol 850 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
28 Eugenol / Clove 1 Lily of the Valley
7 Lioral 5 Nutmeg Indonesia
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
22 MDJ 1 Iso - Eugenol
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Bourgenal
20 Geraniol 60 17 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
12 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Methyl Octyl Ketone
5 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol S 97
.7 Lily Alcohol

199

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Sandiff 3 Aubepine
43 Coumarin .1 Undecavertol
1 Civet Tincture 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Synabran
37 Galbanolide ( Musk ) 9 Orange Blossom Base
6 Kephalis 11 Wardia
7 Vanisal - Flexitrail 3 Apple Oliffac
3 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
74 Hydroxycitronellal 3 Iris Beurre Oil
1 Heliotropine 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
8 Lyral 1 Hidroxicitronelal
17 Musk Emeressence .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Jasmoneige 1 Meranol
7 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Cassis Fragrance B
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Stemone
1 Irone V .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
125 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 14 Bergamot Oils
3 Citronellol 850 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
28 Eugenol / Clove 1 Lily of the Valley
7 Hydroxycitronellol 4 Nutmeg Indonesia
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Leaf Alcohol
22 MDJ 1 Iso - Eugenol
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Bourgenal
20 Geraniol 98 % 17 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 1,000
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Amyl Salicylate
5 Hydroxycitronellal A
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 Linalol S 97
.7 Muguet Alcohol

200

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Kephalis 3 Aubepine
41 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P .1 Undecavertol
1 Civet Tincture 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Synabran
37 Galbanolide ( Musk ) 9 Orange Blossom Base
6 Kephalis 14 Wardia
7 Vanisal - Flexitrail 3 Apple Juice Givco 114
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
74 Hydroxy Citronellal 3 Iris Beurre Oil
1 Heliotropine 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
8 Lyral 1 Hidroxicitronelal
17 Musk Emeressence .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tubereuse 181
5 Jasmoneige 1 Meranol
7 Vanillinethyl 4 Cassis Fragrance B
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Scennal
1 Folrosa Q .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
125 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
3 Citronellol 850 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
28 Eugenol / Clove 1 Lily of the Valley
7 Lioral 4 Cinnamalva
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
22 MDJ 1 Iso - Eugenol
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Bourgenal
20 Geraniol 60 17 Linalylacetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
12 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Methyl Octyl Ketone
5 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 Linalol S 97
.7 Mugone S 207 M

201

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 4d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Iso E Super 3 Anisaldehydedimethylacetal

43 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
1 Civet Powder # 1 A 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
30 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Synabran
39 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 9 Orange Blossom Base
6 Kephalis 11 Wardia
7 Vanisal - Flexitrail 3 Apple Juice Givco 114
2 Amber Fleur 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
73 Laurine Extra 3 Iris Beurre Oil
1 Acetate Iso Eugenol 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
8 Lyral 1 Petilyn
15 Ethylene Brassylate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Jasmoneige 1 Meranol
7 Vanillinethyl 4 Cassis Fragrance B
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Stemone
1 Folrosa Q .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
131 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
3 Citronellol Prime 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
28 Carnation Base 1 Hydroxy Citronellal Di Methyl A.
7 Lioral 5 Nutmeg Indonesia
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
22 Acetato de Benzila 1 Iso - Eugenol
77 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Bourgenal
20 Geraniol 60 17 Linalyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
12 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
2 Methyl Octyl Ketone
5 Hydroxycitronellol
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol S 97
.7 Hyacinth PP

202

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 4e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Brahmanol 3 Lilie
43 Coumane .1 Undecavertol
1 Civet Paste 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Thesaron
37 Musk Tibetine 9 Orange Blossom Base
6 Iso & Super - Citral, Brazil 11 Wardia - Firmenich
7 Vanillin Crystals 3 Apple Oliffac
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
64 Hydroxycitronellal 3 Iris Beurre Oil
1 Heliotropine 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
8 Troenan 1 Hidroxicitronelal
17 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Jasmonyl Acetate 1 Meranol
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Cassis Fragrance B
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Stemone
1 Folrosa Q .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
135 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
3 Citronellol 850 2 Fleuramone
28 Eugenol / Clove 1 Lily of the Valley
7 Lioral 5 Nutmeg Indonesia
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
22 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 1 Iso - Eugenol
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Bourgenal
20 Geraniol 60 17 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
12 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Methyl Octyl Ketone
5 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol 98 %
.7 Lily Alcohol

203

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 2 Muguet Alcohol

8 Amyris Oil West Indies 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Civette Givco 77 7 Orange Flor Deco
5 Heliotropine .2 Alcohol C - 9
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cassis Fragrance B
53 Musk NC .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
6 Sandalore .1 Geraniol 600
9 Vanillin 3 CIS - Jasmone
.1 Rosalva 2 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Bourgenal
10 Hedione 15 Tuberose Substitute
3 Petilyn 1 alpha - Ionone
62 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
127 Muguet Base 3 Iritone V
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
25 Geraniol 60 8 Wardia Base
8 Melafleur 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
1 Rosone 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
85 Ionone Intermediate Base .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Nerol Petals
21 Eugenol 5 Hydrofix R
6 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
4 Hidroxicitronelol 1 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
1 Iso Rose .1 Pomarose
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 24 Linalyl Acetate
304 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
4 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol Select 1,000
1 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Linalol S 97
5 Hysimal

204

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

12 Benzyl Alcohol 2 Muguet Alcohol

8 Amyris Oil West Indies 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Civet - Ethiopia 7 Orange Flor Deco
5 Heliotropine .2 Alcohol C - 10
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cassis Fragrance B
53 Serenolide .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
6 Amyris Oil W.I. .1 Geraniol 600
8 Vanillin 3 CIS - Jasmone
.1 Rosalva 2 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Bourgenal
8 Iso Jasmone 15 Tuberose Substitute
3 Petilyn 1 Ionone
62 Benzyl Acetate 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
127 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Iritone V
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
25 Geraniol 60 8 Wardia Base
8 Meijiff 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
1 Rosone 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
85 Ionone Intermediate Base .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Nerol Petals
21 Eugenol 5 Hydrofix R
6 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 12
4 Hidroxicitronelol 2 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
1 Rhodinol .1 Jasmin Sambac Abs. - India
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 24 Linalyl Acetate
306 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
4 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol 850 1,000
1 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Linalol 98 %
5 Troenan

205

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzylalcohol 2 Top Galbanum

8 Sandalwood - South Australia 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Civet Augaflor 9 7 Orange Flor Deco
5 Heliotropine .2 Alcohol C - 9
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cassis Fragrance B
51 Traseolide 100 Base .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Sandalore .1 Geraniol 600
7 Vanillin 3 CIS - Jasmone
.1 Galbanodor 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 3 Bourgenal
6 Hedione 15 Tuberose Substitute
3 Petilyn 1 alpha - Ionone
62 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
129 Muguet Base 3 Iritone V
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
25 Geraniol ( 980 Pure ) 8 Wardia Base
8 Melafleur 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
1 Rosone 2 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
92 Ionone Intermediate Base .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 3 Nerol Petals
21 Eugenol 100 % 2 Hydrofix L
6 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
4 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 1 Lily of the Valley
1 Iso Rose .1 Pomarose
.1 Vanilla Resinoid 24 Linalyl Acetate
304 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
4 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol 850 ( BBA ) - IFF 1,000
1 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Linalol S 97
5 Ionone 100 %

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 5d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 2 Muguet Alcohol

8 Amyris Oil West Indies 19 Ylang Ylang Substitute
.1 Amberonne 7 Orange Flor Deco
5 Heliotropine .2 Alcohol C - 9
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cassis Fragrance B
53 Musk Ambrette Substitute .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
6 Sandalore .1 Geraniol 600
7 Vanilys - Pfw 3 CIS - Jasmone
.1 Rosalva 2 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Benzyle Salicylate 3 Bourgenal
10 Hedione 15 Tuberose Substitute
3 Petilyn 1 alpha - Ionone
62 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
129 Muguet Base 3 Iritone V
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
25 Geraniol 60 8 Wardia Base
8 Melafleur 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
1 Rosone 1 Hyacinth PP
85 Ionone Intermediate Base .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
1 Hydroxyciol 3 Nerol Petals
21 Eugenol 1 Hydrofix R
6 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
4 Hidroxicitronelol 1 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
1 Iso Rose .1 Pomarose
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 24 Linalyl Acetate
304 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Tea Essence
4 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
16 Citronellol Prime 1,000
1 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Linalol S 97
5 Petilyn

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 5e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Benzyl Alcohol 2 Muguet Alcohol

8 Amyris Oil West Indies 21 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Civette Givco 77 7 Orange Flor Deco
5 Heliotropine .2 Alcohol C - 9
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cassis Fragrance B
53 Ethylene Brassylate ( Musk T ) .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
6 Sandalore .1 Geraniol 600
9 Vanillin 3 Cis - Jasmone
.1 Rosalva 2 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Bourgenal
10 Jasmone 18 Tuberose Substitute
4 Petilyn 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
58 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
127 Muguet Base 3 Iritone V
16 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
25 Geraniol 60 8 Wardia Base
8 Melafleur 3 Traseolide
1 Rosone 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
89 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Nerol Petals
20 Eugenol 5 Hydrofix R
6 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Orange Flower Orpur - Givaudan
4 Hidroxicitronelol 1 Lyral
1 Iso Rose .1 Jasmine Abs. India A
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 24 Linalyl Acetate
302 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
4 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol Select 1,000
1 Myraldyl Acetate
33 Linalol S 97
2 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

208

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 6a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
49 Coumarin Substitute 5092 P 26 Geraniol Special 98 % AT
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
29 Galaxolide 50 DPG 1 Ribes Mercaptan
7 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Sandiff 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
23 Hydroxycitronellal A .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 4 Geranium Oil pure
54 MDJ Super 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Lilial
4 Amyris Oil ( Sandalwood ) Fine 5 Aldeido Muguet
128 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .3 Wardia
4 Alicate 1 Cinnamon Leaf Oil
2 Heliotropine 3 Iso E Super
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
5 Vanillinethyl 27 Linalyl Acetate
14 Hedione 5 Nerol natural
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
81 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur 3 Stemone - Givaudan
3 y - Irone
4 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Lioral
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 9

209

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 6b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 7 Vert de Cassis Givco

7 Vanilys 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
49 Coumarin Substitute 26 Geraniol Special 98 % AT
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
29 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 1 Ribes Mercaptan
8 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 10 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Sandal Forte - Forte 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
21 Hydroxycitronellal A .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 4 Geranium Oil pure
54 MDJ Super 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Hydroxycitronellal 55 Pure
4 Amyris Oil ( Sandalwood ) Fine 4 Lysmeral
130 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .3 Wardia
4 Helional 1 Cinnamon Leaf Oil
2 Heliotropine 3 Iso E Super
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
5 Ethyl Vanillin 27 Linalyl Acetate
14 Benzylacetate 5 Nerol natural
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
81 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur 3 Scennal - ( Quest Intl. ) - Givaudan
3 Ionone Alpha
4 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Lioral
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Folione
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 10

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 6c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
49 Coumarin Substitute 5092 P 26 Geraniol Special 98 % AT
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
29 Galaxolide 50 DPG 1 Ribes Mercaptan
7 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Woodynol II 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
23 Hydroxycitronellal A .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg West Indies
3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 4 Geranium Oil pure
54 MDJ 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Lilial
3 Sandalore 5 Aldeido Muguet
130 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .3 Wardia
4 Amyl Salicylate 1 Cinnamon Leaf Oil
2 Heliotropine 3 Vanillyl Alcohol
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Jasmorange F
5 Vanillin ethyl 27 Linalyl Acetate
14 Hedione 5 Nerol
23 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
81 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur 3 Petilyn
3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia Fleuriff 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Anisyl Alcohol
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Undecavertol
3 Timber Forte
.1 Rose Essence Abs.

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 6d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Orange Oil Sweet ( Cold Pressed )
46 Coumarin Substitute 5092 P 26 Geraniol Special 98 % AT
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
29 Galaxolide 50 DPG 1 Ribes Mercaptan
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Tonka Beans Orpur - Givaudan 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
23 Hydroxy Citronellal .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Nerolin Crystals 1 Nutmeg E.I.
3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 4 Geranium Oil Egypte
54 MDJ Super 2 Bourgenal
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Lilial
4 Santalol 5 Aldeido Muguet
128 Hydroxycitronellol .3 Wardia
5 Alicate 1 Cinnamon Leaf Oil
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Anthea Sandal Coeur
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
5 Vanillinethyl 27 Linalylacetate
14 Hedione 5 Nerol natural
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
81 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
1 Sandalore 3 Stemone - Givaudan
3 Iritone V
4 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Lioral
3 Geranyl Acetate Prime
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Folione
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Rose Givco 221

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 6e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 5 Vert de Cassis Givco

7 Vanillin 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
49 Coumarin Substitute 26 Geraniol Prime
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
29 Galaxolide 50 DPG 1 Ribes Mercaptan
11 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Santalol 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
23 Hydroxycitronellal A .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Shiso
3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 4 Geranium over Roses
54 MDJ Super 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Lilial
1 Sandal Mysore Core 5 Muguet Aldehyde
128 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .3 Wardia
4 Coumarin Crystals 1 Cinnamon Beaf Oil
2 Heliotropine 3 Iso E Super
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 1 Elintaal
5 Vanillinethyl 27 Linalyl Acetate
14 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Nerol natural
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
81 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
1 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 Stemone
3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Coeur
4 Methyl Benzoate
5 Green Base Augaflor 3 1,000
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol Coeur FCC
1 Sage - Yugoslovia
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violiff
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Damascenia 185 SA

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 GLen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 7a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilys 6 Pomarose
4 Musk Ambrette Substitute 4 Lyrame
9 Coumane 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Civet Powder # 3C 11 Wardia
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 8 Lemon Oil California Orpur - Giv.
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
17 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Rhodiascent
5 Traseolide 3 Neroli Oliffac
1 Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Heliotropine .1 Rose Abs. - Egypt
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Florantone T
69 Hedione 30 Geraniol Coeur
.1 Cinnamic Alcohol 29 Linalol
7 Parmanyl 8 Orange Blossom Base
19 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Folione
4 Vanillinethyl 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.2 Alcohol C - 9 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
130 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
12 Sandela 4 Geranyl Acetate FCC
1 Iso - Eugenol 2 Nerol
5 Cashmeran 1 Cassis Fragrance B
79 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 3 Alpha - Ionone
23 Eugenol / Clove 5 Orangeflor
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Verotyl
2 Magnol 1 Bois Amberene Forte
315 ( DPG ) 3 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 2 Kir Base # 9741
7 Citronellol 850 36 Linalyl Acetate

1,000

214

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilys 6 Pomarose
4 Musk Ambrette Substitute 4 Lyrame
9 Coumane 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Civet Powder # 3C 11 Wardia
32 ( DEP ) 7 Fruitaleur
19 Salicylate de Benzila 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
17 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Rhodiascent
5 Traseolide 3 Neroli Oliffac
1 Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Heliotropine .1 Rose Abs. - Egypt
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Florantone T
69 Benzyl Acetate FCC 30 Geraniol Pur
.1 Cinnamic Alcohol 29 Linalol 98 %
7 Liral 11 Orange Blossom Base
19 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Folione
4 Vanillinethyl 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.2 Alcohol C - 9 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
136 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
12 Santalox T Neat 4 Geranyl Acetate FCC
1 Iso - Eugenol 3 Nerol
5 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 1 Cassis Fragrance B
79 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 3 Alpha - Ionone
23 Eugenol / Clove 5 Orangeflor
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Verotyl
2 Ivyal 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
315 Propylene Glycol 3 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 2 Kir Base # 9741
7 Citronellol 900 36 Linalyl Acetate

1,000

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 7c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 6 Pomarose
4 Musk Ambrette Substitute 4 Lyrame
9 Coumane 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Civet Artificial 11 Wardia
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 8 Melonyl 86471 VMF
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
17 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Rhodiascent
5 Serenolide 3 Neroli Oliffac
1 Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol .1 Rose Damascenia Abs. - France
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Florantone T
69 Hedione 30 Geraniol Coeur
.1 Anisalcohol 29 Linalol
7 Parmanyl 8 Orange Blossom Base
24 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Folione
4 Vanillinethyl 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.2 Iso Rose 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
125 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
12 Sandalwood Oil - India 4 Geranyl Acetate FCC
1 Iso - Eugenol 2 Nerol
5 Cashmeran 1 Cassis Fragrance B
83 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 3 Alpha - Ionone
20 Carnation Base 5 Orangeflor
14 Lyral - IFF 1 Verotyl
1 Methyl Benzoate 1 Bois Amberene Forte
323 ( DPG ) 3 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 2 Kir Base # 9741
7 Citronellol 850 36 Linalyl Acetate

1,000

216

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 7d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 6 Pomarose
4 Musk Ambrette Substitute 4 Lyrame
9 Coumane 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Civet Powder # 3C 11 Wardia
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 8 Melon Oliffac
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
17 Santalol 1 Lily Aldehyde
5 Traseolide - Quest Intl. ( Givaudan ) 3 Neroli Oliffac
1 Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Heliotropine .1 Rose Abs. - Egypt
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Florantone T
67 Super Cepionate 30 Geraniol ex Palmarosa Oil
.1 Cinnamic Alcohol 29 Linalool
7 Geraniol Pure 8 Orange Blossom Base
22 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Nonadien 1 al
4 Vanillinethyl 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.2 Alcohol C - 9 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
130 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
12 Sanjinol - IFF 4 Geranyl Acetate FCC
1 Iso - Eugenol 2 Nerol
5 Nepalva 1 Cassifix
79 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Leaf Acetal
1 Rose Crystals 3 Alpha - Ionone
23 Eugenol / Clove 5 Orange Augaflor 9
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Verotyl
2 Magnol 1 Bois Amberene Forte
315 ( DPG ) 3 Methyl Iso Eugenol
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Kir Base # 9741
7 Citronellol 850 36 Acetato de Linalyl ex Bois de Rose

1,000

217

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 7e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilys 6 Pomarose
4 Musk Ambrette Substitute 4 Lilivert
9 Coumane 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Rionyl 11 Wardia
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate ( DEP ) 8 Apple Juice Givco 69
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 4 Lyrame Suepr
17 Amyris Oil W.I. ( Sandal ) 1 Rhodiascent
5 Musk Zylene ( IFRA ) - Givaudan 3 Neroli Artessence
1 Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Heliotropine .1 Rose Abs. - Egypt
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Florantone T
69 Acetate de Benzila 30 Geraniol Coeur
.1 Cinnamic Alcohol 29 Linalol
7 Parmanyl 8 Orange Blossom Base
13 Hydroxy Citronellal .1 Iris Beurre Essence
4 Vanillinethyl 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.2 Alcohol C - 9 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
130 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
12 Sandela 4 Geranylacetate
1 Iso - Eugenol 2 Nerol
5 Cashmeran 1 Cassis Fragrance B
85 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 3 Ionone Alpha 60
23 Iso Eugenol Replacement 5 Orangeflor
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Mallow
2 Magnol 1 Bois Amberene Forte
315 ( DPG ) 3 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 2 Kir Base # 9741
7 Citronellol 850 36 Linalyl Acetate

1,000

218

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 8a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 1 Eugenyl Acetate

3 Benzophenone 4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
55 Musk T - Takasago 8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Jasmin Absolute
.1 Civet Givco 81 .2 Alcohol C - 9
32 DEP 7 Bourgenal
4 Heliotropine 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Alpha Damascone 33 Linalol Pur
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
31 Benzyl Acetate .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 alpha - Ionone Extra 3 Troenan
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 18 Orange Blossom Base
9 Vanilys .1 Ylang Ylang III Petals
2 Cashmeran .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
3 Jasmon Oil P.g. 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
9 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 Jasmin Oil M/F
7 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Methyl Benzoate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
112 Ionone Intermediate Base 25 Linalyl Acetate
6 Citronellol AJ FCC .3 Tubereuse 181
3 Helional 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 Lyral 4 Geranyl Acetate
36 Geraniol Pure 5 Lyral
27 Carnation Base 1 Wardia
319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Tuberose Oliffac
4 Phenafleur 1 Pearalate
2 Nerol 3 Neryl Acetate
.1 Musk Abs. C’Less - Quest Intl.

1,000

219

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 8b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Crystals 1 Isoeugenol

3 Benzophenone 4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
55 Musk T - Takasago 8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Jasmin Abs.
.1 Civet Givco 81 .2 Alcohol C - 10
32 DEP 7 Bourgenal
4 Heliotropine 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Alpha Damascone 33 Linalol Ex Bois De Rose Oil
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 Meijiff
29 Benzyl Acetate .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 alpha - Ionone Extra 3 Troenan
3 Cashmeran 18 Orange Blossom Base
9 Vanilys .1 Ylang Ylang III Petals
2 Musk Clear - India .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
3 Jasmon Oil P.g. 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
9 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 Jasilyn
7 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Methyl Benzoate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
112 Ionone Intermediate Base 25 Linalyl Acetate
6 Citronellol AJ FCC .3 Tubereuse 181
3 Helional 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 Lyral 4 Geranyl Acetate
36 Geraniol Pure 5 Lyral
27 Carnation Base 1 Wardia
321 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Tuberose Oliffac
4 Phenafleur 1 Pearalate
2 Nerol 3 Neryl Acetate
.1 Musk Emeressence

1,000

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 8c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 1 Eugenyl Acetate

3 Rose Crystals 4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
55 Musk 50 in DPG 8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Jasmin Absolute
.1 Civet Powder # 4g .2 Alcohol C - 9
32 Phthalate Di Ethyl ( DEP ) 7 Bourgenal
4 Heliotropine 16 Ylang Ylang Substitute
1 Alpha Damascone 33 Linalol Pur
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
31 Benzyl Acetate .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 alpha - Ionone Extra 3 Lyral
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 18 Orange Blossom Base
9 Vanillin .1 Ylang Ylang III Petals
2 Cashmeran .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
119 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 6 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
3 Jasmon Oil P.g. 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
9 Benzylacetate Coeur 1 Iso Jasmone
7 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Methyl Benzoate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
108 Ionone Intermediate Base 25 Linalyl Acetate
6 Citronellol AJ FCC .3 Methyl Tuberate Pure
3 Helional 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Lyral 4 Geranyl Acetate
36 Geraniol Pure 3 Irisone Bis
27 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Wardia
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Tuberose Oliffac
4 Phenafleur 1 Anapear - Givaudan ( Pear )
2 Nerol 3 Neryl Acetate
.1 Musk Emeressence

1,000

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 8d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 1 Eugenyl Acetate

3 Benzophenone 4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
46 Galaxolide Artessence 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Jasmin Absolute
.1 Civet Givco 81 .2 Alcohol C - 9
32 DEP 7 Bourgenal
4 Heliotropine 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Beta Damascone 33 Linalol Pur
15 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 2 Cetone V
31 Benzyl Acetate .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 alpha - Ionone Extra 3 Troenan
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 18 Orange Blossom Base
9 Vanilys .1 Ylang Ylang III Petals
2 Cashmeran .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
118 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
3 Iso Jasmone 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor 17
19 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 Jasmin Oil M/F
7 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Methyl Benzoate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
112 Ionone Intermediate Base 25 Linalyl Acetate
6 Citronellol AJ FCC .3 Tubereuse 181
3 Helional 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Lyral 4 Geranyl Acetate Pure
38 Geraniol Prime 5 Lyral
27 Carnation Base 1 Wardia
309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Tuberose Oliffac
4 Phenafleur 1 Pearalate
2 Nerol 3 Neryl Acetate
.1 Serenolide - Givaudan

1,000

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 8e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 1 Iso - Eugenol

3 Benzophenone 4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
55 Etilen Brassilato ( Musk T ) - Tak. 8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Iris Beurre Essence
.1 Civet Givco 87 .2 Alcohol C - 9
32 DEP 7 Bourgenal
4 Heliotropine 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Alpha Damascone 31 Linalol Pur
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 Melon Org
31 Benzyl Acetate .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 alpha - Ionone Extra 3 Phyllos
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 18 Orange Blossom Base
9 Vanilys .1 Ylang Ylang III Petals
2 Muskylein .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
114 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
3 Jasmon Oil P.g. 3 Orange Blossom Augaflor
19 Jasmatone 1 Jasmin Oil M/F
7 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Stemone - Givaudan
2 Methyl Benzoate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
102 Ionone Intermediate Base 25 Linalyl Acetate
6 Citronellol AJ FCC .3 Tuberose Abs. - Morocco
3 Helional 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 Lyral 4 Geranyl Acetate Pur
36 Geraniol Pure 4 Lyrame
37 Eugenol 2 Wardia
309 Di Propylene Glycol .1 Tuberose Oliffac
4 Phenafleur 1 Pearalate
2 Nerol 3 Neryl Acetate
.1 Musk Abs. C’Less - Quest Intl.

1,000

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 9a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Paste - Somaliland ( Italy ) .1 Polarose

11 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Orangeflor
36 Macrolide - Symrise 1 Rhodiascent Extra Pure
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 Wardia
5 Vanisal 27 Linalool
11 Sandalwood Oliffac 14 Orange Blossom Base
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 3 Citronet
51 Coumane 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
9 Koavonne 15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Hydrofix L 3 Geranyl Acetate 98 %
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 4 Muguet Aldehyde
48 Benzyl Acetate 2 Kir Base # 9741
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Florosia 1 Orange Flor
7 Osyrol 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
5 Methyl Benzoate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Sensient
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 8 Linalyl Acetate Extra
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Folione
6 Lilivert 1 Florantone T
3 Citronellol 850 - Bush Boake Allen .1 Galbanum Absolue
1 Amyris Oil ( East Indies ) Sandal .1 Geraniol 600
12 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 1 Florosia
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base 3 Bourgenal
7 Petilyn
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 y - Irone
24 Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % )
1 Iso Jasmone
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol Extra
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 9b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Paste - Somaliland ( Italy ) .1 Polarose

12 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Orangeflor
36 Macrolide - Symrise 1 Rhodiascent Extra Pure
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 Wardia
5 Vanisal 27 Linalool
11 Sandalwood Oliffac 16 Orange Blossom Base
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 3 Citronet
51 Coumane 1 Tangerinol - Givaudan
9 Koavonne 13 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Hydrofix L 3 Geranyl Acetate 98 %
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 4 Muguet Aldehyde
47 Benzyl Acetate Pure - Polarome 2 Kir Base # 9741
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Florosia 1 Orange Flor
7 Osyrol 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
5 Methyl Benzoate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Sensient
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 8 Linalyl Acetate Special
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Folione
6 Lilivert 1 Florantone T
3 Citronellol 900 .1 Galbanum Absolue
1 Sandol - SA .1 Geraniol 600
12 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 1 Florosia
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base 3 Bourgenal
7 Lioral - Flextrail
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 y - Irone
24 Geraniol Prime
1 Iso Jasmone
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Caraway Oil - Holland
1 Geraniol Extra
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmone

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 9c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide .1 Polarose
11 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Orangeflor
36 Galaxolide Gx 50 in IPM 1 Rhodiascent Extra Pure
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate ( DEP ) 5 Wardia
5 Vanisal 27 Linalool
11 Sandalwood Oliffac 14 Orange Blossom Base
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 3 Citronet
51 Coumane 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
9 Koavonne 15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Hydrofix L 3 Geranyl Acetate FCC
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 4 Muguet Aldehyde
48 Benzyl Acetate 2 Kir Base # 9741
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Fleuramone 1 Neroli Artessence - Biolandes
7 Osyrol 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
5 Methyl Benzoate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
118 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Sensient
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 8 Linalyl Acetate Extra
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Lilivert 1 Florantone T
3 Citronellol 850 - Bush Boake Allen .1 Galbanum Absolue
1 Amyris Oil - Haiti .1 Geraniol 600
12 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 1 Florosia
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base 3 Bourgenal
7 Petilyn
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 y - Irone
24 Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % )
1 Iso Jasmone
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol Pur
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 9d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Tincture .1 Polarose

11 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Orangeflor
36 Macrolide - Symrise 1 Rhodiascent Extra Pure
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 Wardia
5 Vanisal 27 Linalool
11 Sandalwood Oliffac 18 Orange Blossom Base
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 3 Galbaniff
51 Coumane 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
9 Koavonne 15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Hydrofix L 3 Geranyl Acetate 98 %
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 4 Muguet Aldehyde
48 Benzyl Acetate 1 Perryfix ( Symrise ) - Creations A.
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Florosia 1 Orange Flor
7 Osyrol 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Eugenyl Acetate
118 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 Sensient
53 Benzylacetate 8 Linalyl Acetate Extra
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Folione
6 Lilivert 1 Orange Flower Orpur - Givaudan
3 Citronellol 850 - Bush Boake Allen .1 Galbanum Absolue
1 Sandal Amiris .1 Geraniol 600
10 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 1 Florosia
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base 3 Bourgenal
7 Petilyn
11 alpha - Ionone Extra
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol, Perfumery Grade
1 Iso Jasmone
3 Muguet Aldehyde
2 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol Extra
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 9e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Paste - Somaliland ( Italy ) .1 Polarose

11 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Orangeflor
36 Macrolide - Symrise 1 Rhodiascent Extra Pure
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 Wardia
5 Vanillin 27 Linalol
11 Sandalwood Oliffac 16 Orange Blossom Base
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 3 Citronet
51 Coumane 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
9 Koavonne 15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Hydrofix L 3 Geranyl Acetate 98 %
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 4 Muguet Aldehyde
48 Benzyl Acetate 2 Kir Base # 9741
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Florosia 1 Orange Flor
7 Sandalore 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
5 Metil Benzoato 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Sensient
53 Acetate Benzyle 9 Linalyl Acetate Extra
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Folione
6 Lilivert 1 Florantone T
3 Citronellol FCC .1 Galbanum Absolue
1 Sandalwood Oil E.I. .1 Geraniol 600
12 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 1 Florosia
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base 3 Bois Amberene Forte
7 Petilyn
9 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 y - Irone
24 Geraniol Synthetic 95 FCC
1 Iso Jasmone
3 Muguet Aldehyde
2 Cis - Jasmone
1 Geraniol Extra
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Gardenia Acetal

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 10a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarin Substitute 1 Nerol

8 Etilen Brassilato 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Petilyn
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 22 Linalool
45 Galaxolide 50 .5 Rose Otto Augaflor
8 Vanillin 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
6 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Neroli Oliffac
9 Sandalore 17 Geraniol 60
45 Benzyl Acetate FCC 8 Orange Blossom Base
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
1 Beta Damascone 6 Cassis Fragrance
4 Hawthorn .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
128 Muguet ( Lily of the Valley ) Base 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Mugone S 207 M
7 Methyl Benzoate 16 Wardia
17 Hedione 1 Methyl Pamplemousse
4 Citronellol 850 38 Linalyl Acetate
13 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Rhodiaflor
1 Cashmeran 1 Tangerine Oil Florida / Brazil
7 Benzyl Acetate FCC .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Endanol 1 Rosilial
25 Rose for Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
10 alpha - Ionone Extra 1 Mugetanol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Bergamot Oil Orpur - Givaudan
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Carnation Base
1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev 1,000
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
67 Ionone Intermediate Base
3 Lioral
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 10b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarin 1 Nerol Pure

8 Muskylein 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
9 Benzylsalicylate 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Petilyn
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 20 Linalool
45 Galaxolide 50 .5 Rose Otto Augaflor
7 Vanillin 1 Caraway Oil -
5 Lioral 3 Neroli Oliffac
9 Sandalore 17 Geraniol Prime FCC
45 Benzyl Acetate FCC 8 Orange Blossom Base
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
1 Beta Damascone 6 Cassis Fragrance
4 Hawthorn .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
130 Muguet ( Lily of the Valley ) Base 5 Geranium Rose Orpur - Egypt
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Mugone S 207 M
7 Methyl Benzoate 16 Wardia
17 Hedione 1 Grapefruit Oil of Florida ( C.P. )
4 Citronellol 850 38 Linalyl Acetate
13 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Rhodiaflor
1 Musk Clear 1 Tangerine Oil Florida / Brazil
9 Benzyl Acetate Pur .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Endanol 1 Rosilial
25 Rose for Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
10 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 1 Mugetanol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Bergamot Oil Orpur - Givaudan
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
22 Carnation Base
1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev 1,000
3 Myraldyl Acetate
67 Ionone Intermediate Base
3 Hydroxy Ciol
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 10c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumane 1 Nerol
8 Etilen Brassilato 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Petilyn
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 22 Linalool
42 Galaxolide 50 .5 Rose Otto Augaflor
8 Vanillin 1 Iso - Eugenol ( Dianthanol ) Carnat.
6 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Neroli Oliffac
9 Sandalore 17 Geraniol 60
44 MDJ - Kao Corp. Japan 8 Orange Blossom Base
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
1 Damascenia 185 SA 6 Bourgeon De Cassis
4 Anisaldehydedimethylacetal .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
132 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Mugone S 207 M
7 Methyl Benzoate 16 Wardia
17 Acetate de Benzila 1 Pamplemousse
4 Citronellol 850 38 Linalyl Acetate
13 Lilial 1 Rhodiaflor
1 Cashmeran 1 Tangerine Oil Florida / Brazil
7 Benzyl Acetate Pure .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Endanol 1 Rosilial
25 Rose Base # 60 .1 Leaf Alcohol
10 alpha - Ionone Extra 1 Muguet Alcohol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Bergamot Oil Orpur - Givaudan
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Carnation Base
1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev 1,000
3 Lyral
67 Ionone Intermediate Base
3 Irisome Bis
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

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Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 10d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 1 Geranyl Acetate

8 Musk T ( Ethylene Brassylate ) 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Stemone
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 22 Linalool
45 Galaxolide 50 .5 Rose Otto Augaflor
8 Vanillin 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
6 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Neroli Oliffac
9 Sandalore 17 Geraniol 60
45 Benzyl Acetate FCC 8 Orange Blossom Base
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Iso Rose
1 Beta Damascone 6 Cassis Fragrance
4 Hawthorn .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
128 Lily of the Valley Base 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Mugone S 207 M
7 Methyl Benzoate 16 Wardia
17 Hedione 1 Methyl Pamplemousse
4 Citronellol 850 38 Linalylacetate
13 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Petilyn
1 Musk GX 1 Tangerine Oil Florida
7 Benzyl Acetate FCC .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Anthea Sandal Coeur 1 Rosilial
25 Rose for Soap Base .1 Leaf Acetal
10 alpha - Ionone Extra 1 Mugetanol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Bergamot Oil Pure - C.C.C. ( Italy )
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Eugenol 100 %
1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev 1,000
3 Jsmone
67 Ionone Intermediate Base
3 Liral
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Muguet

Floral Aldehydic - Muguet # 10e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarin Substitute 1 Meranol

8 Serenolide 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Jasilyn
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 22 Linalool
45 Galaxolide 50 .5 Rose Otto Augaflor
8 Vanillys 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
6 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Neroli Oliffac
9 Sandalwood Oliffac 17 Geraniol 60
42 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate ( MDJ ) 8 Orange Blossom Base
11 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
1 Beta Damascone 6 Cassis Fragrance
4 Anisic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
133 Hydroxycitornellal 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Mugone S 207 M
7 Methyl Benzoate 16 Wardia
17 Hedione 1 Grapefruit Oil White or Pink C.P.
4 Citronellol 850 38 Linalyl Acetate
13 Hydroxycitronellol 1 Petilyn
1 Musk G 50 in BB 1 Tangerine Oil Florida / Brazil
7 Jasmin Province Base .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Endanol 1 Rosilial
25 Rose for Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
10 Ionone 1 Mugetanol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Bergamot Oil Orpur - Givaudan
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Eugenol
1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev 1,000
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
67 Ionone Intermediate Base
3 Lily of the Valley
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Musk

Musk is a class of aromatic sub- Modern use of natural musk pods ues.
stances commonly used as base occurs in traditional Chinese medi-
notes in perfumery. They include cine. In Ayurveda, Musk has been con-
glandular secretions from animals sidered as a life saving drug and
such as the musk deer, numerous The musk deer belongs to the fami- used in various cardiac, mental and
plants emitting similar fragrances, ly Moschidae and lives in India, neurological disorders. It has also
and artificial substances with simi- Pakistan, Tibet, China, Siberia and been included in various compound
lar odors. Musk was a name origi- Mongolia. To obtain the musk, the formulations like Kasturi Bhairav
nally given to a substance with a deer is killed and its gland, also Ras, Kasturi Modak, Mrignabhyadi
penetrating odor obtained from a called "musk pod", is removed. Vati and Mrigamadsar etc., which
gland of the male musk deer. The Upon drying, the reddish-brown have wide therapeutic applications.
substance has been used as a popu- paste inside the musk pod turns into
lar perfume fixative since ancient a black granular material called Other animals
times and is one of the most expen- "musk grain", which is then tinc-
sive animal products in the world. tured with alcohol. The aroma of Ondatra zibethicus, the muskrat
The name, originated from Sanskrit the tincture gives a pleasant odor
mus.ká meaning "testicle," has only after it is considerably diluted. Muskrat (Ondatra zibethicus), a
come to encompass a wide variety No other natural substance has such rodent native to North America, has
of substances with somewhat simi- a complex aroma associated with so been known since the 17th century
lar odors although many of them many contradictory descriptions; to secrete a glandular substance
are quite different in their chemicalhowever, it is usually described with a musky odor. A chemical
structures. abstractly as animalic, earthy and means of extracting it was discov-
woody or something akin to the ered in the 1940s, but it did not
Until the late 19th century, natural odor of baby's skin. prove commercially worthwhile.
musk was used extensively in per-
fumery until economic and ethical Musk has been a key constituent in Glandular substances with musk-
motives led to the adoption of syn- many perfumes since its discovery, like odor are also obtained from the
thetic musk, which is now used being held to give a perfume long- musk duck (Biziura lobata) of
almost exclusively. The organic lasting power as a fixative. Today southern Australia, the muskox, the
compound primarily responsible the trade quantity of the natural musk shrew, the musk beetle
for the characteristic odor of musk musk is controlled by CITES but (Aromia moschata), African civet
is muscone. illegal poaching and trading contin- (Civettictis civetta), the musk tur-

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

tle, the alligator of Central mal, nearly all musk fragrance used Characteristics
America, and from several other in perfumery today is synthetic,
animals. sometimes called "white musk". Musk deer resemble small deer
They can be divided into three with a stocky build, and hind legs
In crocodiles, there are two pairs of major classes: aromatic nitro longer than their front legs. They
musk glands, one pair situated at musks, polycyclic musk com- are approximately 80 to 100 cen-
the corner of the jaw and the other pounds, and macrocyclic musk timetres (31 to 39 in) in length, 50
pair in the cloaca. Musk glands are compounds. The first two groups to 70 centimetres (20 to 28 in) tall
also found in snakes. have broad uses in industry ranging at the shoulder, and weigh between
from cosmetics to detergents. 7 and 17 kilograms (15 and 37 lb).
Plants However, the detection of the first The feet of musk deer are adapted
two chemical groups in human and for climbing in rough terrain. Like
Some plants such as Angelica environmental samples as well as the Chinese water deer, a cervid,
archangelica or Abelmoschus their carcinogenic properties initi- they have no antlers, but the males
moschatus produce musky smelling ated a public debate on the use of do have enlarged upper canines,
macrocyclic lactone compounds. these compounds and a ban or forming sabre-like tusks. The den-
These compounds are widely used reduction of their use in many tal formula is similar to that of true
in perfumery as substitutes for ani- regions of the world. Macrocyclic deer:
mal musk or to alter the smell of a musk compounds are expected to
mixture of other musks. replace them since these com- The musk gland is found only in
pounds appear to be safer. adult males. It lies in a sac located
The plant sources include musk between the genitals and the
flower (Mimulus moschatus), the Musk Deer umbilicus, and its secretions are
muskwood ( Olearia argophylla ) of most likely used to attract mates.
the Guianas and West Indies, and Musk deer are artiodactyls of the
the seeds of Abelmoschus moscha- genus Moschus, the only genus of Musk deer are herbivores, living in
tus ( musk seeds ). family Moschidae. They are more hilly, forested environments, gener-
primitive than the cervids, or true ally far from human habitation.
Artificial compounds deer, in not having antlers or facial Like true deer, they eat mainly
glands, in having only a single pair leaves, flowers, and grasses, with
Synthetic musk of teats, and in possessing a gall some mosses and lichens. They are
bladder, a caudal gland, a pair of solitary animals, and maintain well-
Galaxolide, a polycyclic musk tusk-like teeth and of particular defined territories, which they scent
commonly found in laundry deter- economic importance to humans a mark with their caudal glands.
gents to mask the smell of the musk gland. Moschids live mainly Musk deer are generally shy, and
detergent chemicals. It is also the in forested and alpine scrub habitats either nocturnal, or crepuscular.
aroma compound in laundry deter- in the mountains of southern Asia,
gents responsible for giving notably Himalayas. Moschids are Males leave their territories during
washed laundry the "clean scent" entirely Asian in their present dis- the rutting season, and compete for
that consumers have learned to tribution, being extinct in Europe mates, using their tusks as
expect and in many cases, demand. where the earliest musk deer are weapons. Female musk deer give
known from Oligocene deposits. birth to a single fawn after about
Since obtaining the deer musk 150–180 days. The newborn young
requires killing the endangered ani- are very small, and essentially

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 Glen O. Brechbill

motionless for the first month of from the male musk deer. The inter- thing to do without changing the
their life, a feature that helps them nal pouches found between the hind smell of these perfumes.
remain hidden from predators. legs had an intesely smelling secre-
tion. To harvest the secretion the The first nitro free aromatic musk
Musk deers have been hunted for animal was hunted. To obtain 1 kilo chemical Phantolide was intro-
their scent glands which can fetch of musk grains between 30 and 50 duced in 1951 by Kurt Fuchs. This
up to $45,000/kg on the black mar- animals had to be sacrificed. Musk was the start of other Polycyclic
ket. It is rumored that ancient royal- tinctures were still used in per- musks like Celestolide, Fixolide,
ty wore the scent of the musk deer fumery till about 1979, when musk Tonalide, Galaxolide and many
and that it is an aphrodisiac. deers were protected form extinc- more. Galaxolide was first synthe-
tion by the Conention on sized in 1965, and already in the
Evolution International Trade in Endagnered late 1960s used in dosages up to
species of wild fauna and flora. 40% in fabric softeners such as
Musk deer may be a surviving rep- Comfort and Soflan and in deter-
resentative of the Palaeomerycidae, Musky smell refers especially from gents like Coral at 27%. But high
a family of ruminants that is proba- the smell of the dry-down of the doses were also incorporated in fine
bly ancestral to deer. They first natural musk tincture after the more fragrances, for instance Tresor by
appeared in the early Oligocene volatile parts are evaporated and Sophia Grosjsman with its 21,4%
epoch and disappeared in the when the more warm, sensual, of Galaxolide. Galaxolide possess-
Pliocene. Most species lacked sweet-powdery tonality comes for- es a clean sweet musky flowery
antlers, though some were found in ward. In 1888 Albert Bauer discov- woody odour.
later species. The musk deer are ered the nitro musk Musk Bauer.
however still placed in a separate Soon replaced by three other nitro There is another group of chemicals
family. musks that he also discovered: with a musk odour: Macrocyclic
Musk Xylene, Musk Ketone and musks. Examples of macrocyclic
Musk Musk Ambrette. These musks musks are Exaltolide, Habanolide,
became really important for the fra- Velvione and others. Habanolide
Musk impart sensuality to perfume grances for the next 50 years. has a metallic character which is
it bring volume and diffusitvity and used in Emporio Armani white for
impart warmth and liveliness. I In 1981 the nitro musks were her by Alberto Morillas as a com-
think it's safe to say that there's no restricted mainly because of a cer- ponent of a white musk accord
perfume without musk. Musk tinc- tain toxicity ( neurotoxicity ) and together with Helvetolide. In Glow
ture smells animalic, sweet and their phototoxicity, but besides they by J Lo it's used in an intense white
ammoniacal. But the more one also caused ecological concerns flower accord.
studies its character, the more con- due to their poor biodegradability.
trasting, vibrant and oscillating it Ernest Beaux the perfumer that cre- Nirvanolide a chemical produced
becomes: repulsive-attractive, ated Chanel no5 used over 10% by Givaudan has a clean and sweet,
chemical-warm, sweaty-balmy, nitro musks in his formulation powdery and persistent, and slight-
acrid-waxy, earthy-powdery, fatty- mainly Musk Ketone. Musk ly animalic odour and is quite close
chocolate like, pungent-leathery, Ambrette was used by the perfumer to the restricted Musk Ketone. It's
resinous-spicy, fig-like, dry, nutty, Francis Fabron for L'air du Temps. used at 6,7% in the perfume
and woody. These nitro musks had to be Forever Elizabeth created by David
replaced by other musk smelling Apel. Another chemical with an
Originally the musk was obtained chemicals and that's not an easy odour close to Musk Ketone is

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Muscenone it possesses a very ele-

gant and diffusive musk odour.

Musk odours could also be

obtained in the plant kingdom like
Angelica root oil that possesses the
musk odour Exaltolide(macro-
cyclic) but also 12-methyl-13-tride-
canolide. The discovery of 12-
methyl-13-tridecanolide in Angel-
ica root oil was really important
because it showed the importance
of the effect of methyl substituents
on the character of macrocyclic
musks. Ambrette seed oil possesses
Ambretollide. When thinking about
musky smells you don't think about
Galbanum because it has a green
note with balsamic nuances and
isn't musky at all, but the isolated
methyl macrolides: 14-pentade-
canolide and the 15-hexadecano-
lide do have a musky odour.

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Musk Fragrance Chemicals

BOOK # I ( A - G ) Amen Organics - India Skatol

Adrian Industries SAS - France Civet Oil Tetrahydro

Musk Ambrette American Society of Perfumers Anthea Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. - India
Musk Ketone
Musk Xylol ANIMAL NOTE Ambrettolide

Agan Aroma Chemicals - Israel Ambergris Anupam Industries - India

Ambretteseed
Musk 50 BB Angelica Root Ambrettolide
Musk 50 DEP Angelica Seed
Musk 50 DPG Castoreum Cashmeran
Cistus - Labdanum Castoreum Abs. 50 BB
Albert Vieille SA - France Civet Cervolide
Clary Sage Civet Oliffac
Civet Paste - Ethiopia Costus
Galaxolide
Alfa Chem - USA Musk
Musk 15
Cistus Abs. AROMATIC CHEMICALS ANIMAL Musk 781
Civet Ethiopian NOTE Musk NC

Musk 50 BB Ambrox Skatole

Musk 50 DEP
Musk 50 IPM Grisalva Tetra Hydro Para Methyl
Musk Ambrette Quinoline
Musk Ketone Indole
Musk TM II Iso Butyl Quinoline Velvione
Musk Xylol Iso Propyl Quinoline

p-Methyl Quinoline

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Aromatic Collection - France Bordas Destilaciones - Spain Musk Ketone

Musk Xylol
Cistus Abs. / Concrete Cistus Oil
China Aroma Chemical Co. - China
Augustus Oils Ltd. - U.K. AROMA CHEMICALS
Civet Abs.
Animale Augaflor 2 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Civet Concrete

Civet Augaflor 6 Cimalide 50 China Perfumer - China

Cistus Oil Methyl Phenyl Acetate Castoreum Reco

Civet Abs. / Concrete Musk Ketone
Musk Xylol Firmenich SA
B.S. Industries - India
Brighten Colorchem B.V. - Neth. Muscenone
Musk Plain Muscone
Musk BSI Musk 105 Myroxyde
Musk SF Musk Ambrette
Musk Ketone Givaudan SA
Barosyl SA - France Musk M
Musk Xylol Civette Givco 208
Cistus
British Society of Perfumers - U.K. Quest Intl. ( Givaudan )
Berje Inc. - USA
Silvanone Super Musk R - 1
Musk Ketone
Musk Xylol Buckton Page Ltd. - U.K. Traseolide

Biolandes Parfumerie - France Cistus Concrete Chinessence Ltd. - China

Civet Abs.
Cistus Oil Musk Ambrette
Cistus Inco 30 Castrading - Korea Musk Ketone
Musk T
Cistus Absolute Cistus
Cistus Absolute SIS Civet Diffusions Aromatiques - France
Civet Tincture
Cistus Bioabsolute Ethylene Brassylate
Cistus Bioconcrete Champon Vanilla, Inc. - USA
Musc 50 % BB
PARFUMERIE RECONSTITUTIONS Civet Musc 50 % DEP
Musk 50 % IPM
Castoreum Artessence CF E 0954 AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Pentaline
Musk Ambrette

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Eramex Aromatics - Germany Fiveash Data Management - USA Musk Ambrette Substitute
Mursk R - 1
Civet Abs. Cistus Spain
Traseolide
Esencias y Materiales - Mexico Flavodor - The Netherlands Traseolide 100

Ethylene Brassylate ( Musk T ) Cistus Oil Global Essence Ltd. - U.K.

Tonalide Civet Abs. Musk G 50 in BB

Musk G 50 in DEP
Essencia Aetherische - Switz. Fleurchem, Inc. - USA Musk G 50 in DPG
Musk Ketone
Civete Absolute Musk Ambrette Musk Xylol
Viverra Civetta Musk Ketone
Musk Xylol The Good Scents Co. - USA
Matieres Premieres Aromtiques
Fleurin, Inc. - USA Cistus Oil
Crysolide Cistus Abs.
Ciste Oil Cistus Concrete
Musc Cetone crist.
Musc NN Castoreum Abs. & 50 % AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Musc 781 Civet Abs.
Muscomer 810 P Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Florachem Corporation - USA
Exaflor - France Methyl Phenyl Acetate
Galaxolide 50 ( IFF ) Musk GX
Muscade Noix Galolid Musk Ketone
Musk Xylol
FFC Aromas - India Frencharoma Imports Co. - USA
MUSK
Isoambrettolide Musk Ketone
Musk T Ambrettolide
Firmenich SA - Switzerland Androst - 16 - en - 3 - ol
Frey - Lau GmbH - Germany Angelica Root Abs.
Cedroxyde
Civettone Musk Ketone China Musk Original
Musk Xylol Civet Decenone
Exaltolide Cyclohexadecanone
Exaltolide Total Givaudan Fragrance Corp. - Switz. Cyclohexadecenone - 8

Habanolide Quest Intl. ( Givaudan ) Dihydrocivetone

Muscenone Cervolide Ethylene Brassylate

Muscone Ethylene Dodecanoate

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Juniper Lactone AROMA CHEMICALS Galaxolide 50 DEP

Galaxolide 50 DPG
Muscenone - Delta Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Galaxolide 50 IPM
Muscogene
Muscone - Dextro Musk Ambrette Hexadecanolide
Muscone - Laevo Musk Ketone
Muscone - Nor Musk Xylol JC Buck Ltd. - U.K.
Musk
Musk Amberol HC Biochem - China Cistus Oil
Musk Ambrette
Musk Decanolide Civet Abs. Civette French Abs.
Musk Decenone
Musk Di Methyl Indane H. Reynaud & Fils - France Joint American Ventures - USA
Musk Dione
Musk Gx 50 % in BB Ciste Essence France Musk Ketone
Musk Gx 50 % in IPM Cistus Oil
Musk Gx 50 % in DEP Kao Corporation - Japan
Musk Indane Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd. - U.K.
Musk Indanone Ambroxan
Musk Ketone Ambrette Seed Oil
Musk Lactone Pearlide B.B.
Musk Methyl Ketone Musk Mallow Extract
Musk Nonane Kruetz Helmut - Portugal
Musk Pentane AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Musk Tetralin Civet Artificial
Musk Tibetene Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Musk Xylol Lluche Essence - Spain
BOOK # II ( I - Z )
Pentadecalactone - Omega Civet Natural
IPRA Fragrances - France
Versalide Castoreum Abs.
Musc Cetone Cistus Green Abs.
Gorlin & Company - USA Musc Xylene
SYNTHETIC AROMA CHEMICALS
Cistus Innospec Inc. - USA
Cistus Distilled Astrolide Pure
Civet Tetralide
Civet Tincture Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
IFF - USA
Graham Chemical Corp. - USA Cashmeran
Cashmeran
Cistus Oil Celestolide Ganolide
Globanone 50 % DEP
Galaxolide 50 BB Globanone 50 % DPG

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Globanone 50 % IPM PFW Aroma Chemicals - Neth. Tonalid

Methyl Phenyl Acetate Phantolid Crystals Polarome International - USA

Musk 50 BB Tonalid II Civet Ethiopian

Musk 50 DEP
Musk 50 IPM Ultralid II AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Musk Al
Musk Ambrette Paul Kaders GmbH - Germany Musk Ambrette
Musk ED Musk Ketone
Musk Ketone Musk Xylol Musk KN
Musk KS Musk TM II
Musk R - 1 Payan Bertrand SA - France ( 5 - Cyclo Hexa Decenone )
Musk Tops Musk Xylol
Musk Xylol Castoreum Abs.
Civet Abs. Prima Fleur - USA
M.X.D. Enterprise System - Korea
Perfume & Flavor Manuf. - Aust. Cistus True
Castoreum Abs. Colourless
Castoreum Abs. Extra Cistus Landaniferus Oil Prodasynth - France
Civet Abs. Cistus Spp. Oil
Civet Abs. Extra Methyl Phenyl Acetate
Petit Marie - Brazil Musk Cetone
Mane SA - France Musk Xylene
Ambergris
Cistus Abs. - Spain Ambretolide Puressence Wuersten Inc. - Switz.
Cistus Abs. Decol - Sapin
Cashmeran Cistus Oil
Muller & Koster - France Cistus Concrete
Exaltolide Cistus Resinoide
Ciste Assoluta
Cistus Landaniferus Grisalva Rai Ingredients - Brazil
Ciste Essenza Grisambrol
Cistus Ladaniferus Civette Givco 208
Hexadecanolide - IFF
Nardev - Israel Nivandide
Musk 144 - Takasago
Cistus Oil - Morocco, Spain Musk Ambrette Serenolide
Musk Cetona
Natural Sourcing, LLC - USA Musk R 15 ( Exaltone ) Raj Aromatics Corp. - India
Musk RI
Cistus, France Musk Xilol Cistus Oil

Phantolide

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Robertet SA - France Science Lab - USA AROMATIC CHEMICALS NATURAL

Civette Abs. Musk Oil Ambarome 2000

Civette Artificial Abs. Ambarome Absolute
Seema International - India
SRS Aromatics Ld. - U.K. Takasago International Corp. - Japan
Musk Melon Oil
Muscambrone 4300 P Ambretone
Muscambrone Extra 4301 P Shanghai M & U Intl. - China Ambretone 50BB
Muscobrette 3570 P Ambrinol 20 - T
Muscobrette Spezial 3894 P Musk Ambrette
Muscomer 1151 P Musk Ketone Musk 144
Muscomer 810 P Musk C - 14
Muscomer S 900 P Sclareolide Musk C - 14 Supra
Muscoton 3871 P Musk T
Muscotonk 3636 P Shreeji Aroma - India Musk T Supra
Muskylen 206 M
Musk Ambrette Oxalide T
Phantolid Crystals Musk Ketone Oxalide T Supra
Phloralid Musk Xylol
Thakker Group - India
Tonalid Crystals Sigma Aldrich - USA
Musk Ketone - China
Ultralid Musk Ketone Musk T - China
Musk Xylol - China
AROMA CHEMICALS Sovimpex - France
Th. Byer Gmbh - Germany
Ethylene Brassylate Musc Ambrette
Ethylene Glycol Brassylate Musc Cetone Methylphenylacetate
Musc Xylene Musk Booster B-2-3
Methyl Phenyl Acetate
Musc BRB Tonalid Ventos, Ernesto S.A. - Spain
Muscomer Etra 810 P
Musk Ketone Symrise GmbH - Germany Ambroxan - KAO
Musk KS Ambroxan, China
Musk MX III Macrolide
Musk Xylol Macrolide 70 % in DEP Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Macrolide Supra
Totalide Ethylene Brassylate
Synarome - France
Ultralid II Galaxolide 50 BB - IFF
Musk Ambrette Substitut Galaxolide 50 DEP - IFF
Muscarome J.10 - A.M.C.R. Galaxolide 50 IPM - IFF
Muscarome J.5 - A.M.C.R. Galaxolide Undiluted

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Methyl Phenyl Acetate Musk Xylol

Muscenone - Firmenich
Muscone - Firmenich Tetralide
Musk 15 - IFF Traseolide 70
Musk Ketone Traseolide 100
Musk Moskene
Musk R1 Ultralid
Musk Xylol
Musk Z 4 - IFF Wambesco Gmbh - Denmark

Tonalid - Pfw Ambrettolide

Rosamusk - IFF Methyl Phenyl Acetate

Scentolide - Synarome
Sclareolide

Tonalid - Pfw

Venus Enterprises Ltd. - U.K.

Musk Ambrette
Musk G.
Musk Ketones
Musk Xylol

W & W Australia Pty - Aust.

Ethylene Brassylate
( Musk - T ) Takasago

Musk Ambrette
Musk Ketone
Musk Xylol

AROMATIC CHEMICALS & NATURALS

Cashmeran

Ethylene Brassylate
Exaltolide

Musk Ketone
Musk R - 1

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Musk Notes

Abalide Sweet musk similar to tonalid.

Ambargris A healing panacea made from large chunks of ambergris only when
they are found by fisherman floating on the Atlantic Ocean. A scent
so beautiful and popular in Morocco that it inspired John Singer
Sargent to paint his famous La Furnee d'Ambergris.

Ambergris T Oliffac A substitute for the traditional 3 % tincture of ambergris.

Ambrain Labdanum musk.

Ambrette Ess. Beurre Lave A delicate sweet musk fragrance.

Ambrette C Sweet musk.

Ambrette XNM Sweet, but heavy floral musky odor.

Ambrettex Musk.

Ambrettolide Floral musky sweet odor.

Ambrinol Extremely powerful amber with natural somewhat musky.

A C A Di Methyl Acetal Peculiar animal green odor.

Amyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet musk animal odor.

Angelic Root Oil Pleasantly aromatic a mixture of musk.

Animalic 9143 Animal.

Animalone Musk.

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Mild sweet honey floral.

Castaulon Warm, intense fatty hairy animal odor.

Castorium Hyper Abs. Very powerful warm animal like scent.

Cashmeran Diffusive musk.

Celestolid Mild, and sweet musky odor.

Civet Abs. 394 BF An extremely powerful obnoxious animal like fecal odor.

Civet AAB394 Fine substitute of the original absolute.

Civet AB422A Excellent reconstitution long lasting.

Civet Abs. 394 BF An extremely powerful obnoxious animal like fecal odor.

Civet Artificial I.A. Lacks the characteristic softness which is found with powder.

Civet Artificial XBS Obnoxiously strong fecal odor.

Civet Augaflor 6 Strong, long lasting civet-like specialty, unmistakably animal with
a woody background. A good economical reproduction of the
original and possesses good fixative properties. May be used to
advantage in toiletries where the price of the natural material
precludes use.

Civet Base # 1 A very sweet slightly cloying fecal odor of the abyssinian cat.

Civet Concentrate 50 Strong acidic animal, fecal tone invaluable in fine fragrances.

Civet Concrete Musky odor extremely diffusive and tenacious.

Civet Ethiopia A glandular secretion collected from primarily male cats. In small
traces adds a velvety touch to many different fine bouquets.

Civet # 3 S - 788 A strong animal odor of the civet cat close to the natural oil.

Civet 170 BSA Typical animal sweet musky odor reminiscent of the civet cat.

Civet Powder Unquestionably animal fecal odor of the civet cat.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Civet Resin Abs. Diffusive animal fecal like odor of the civet cat.

Civet Tincture An odor reminiscent of the civet cat, fecal like.

Civet 241 Oliffac Strong animal, fecal notes similar to natural civet, sensual.

Civettal A liquid form which lacks the softness found with natural powder.

Civette Abs. Animal sweet, free from fecal and urine notes.

Civette Artifical Abs. Animal sweet.

Civette Givco 169 This Givco is a close reconstitution of civet absolute, which it can replace in
equal amounts. It does not contain any animal extract. It adds diffusive
warmth to fragrances and provides the distinctive effect produced by natural
civet in floral-jasmin, amber, oriental, chypre, and tobacco accords.

Civette 170 BSA Typical animal sweet odor of the civet cat.

Civettone A ketone, active element in Abyssinian civet synthesized.

Copaiba Oil Musk, milder sweeter almost creamy balsamic.

Cyclo Penta De Canolide Musky somewhat animal.

Di Hydro Ambrettolide Musky sweet odor of good tenacity.

Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful sweet honey like.

Ethylene Brassylate Sweet musk warm and powdery.

Exaltolide Delicately animal.

Exaltex Musk.

Fixolid Sweet wody musky.

Galaxolide 50 Powerful sweet and musky.

Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Soft floral honey rose like.

Grisalva Ambergris.

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Horsey Dis An animal amber complex.

Indoflor Crystals Distinct civet like slightly obnoxious animal odor.

Iso Butyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful leafy rosy musky fragrance.

Labdanum Abs. A sweet herbaceous recalling ambergris, slightly animal.

Methyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful and diffusive honey musk odor.

Monofax Musk.

Moskene Musky sweet odor.

Muscambre 66.130 A musky animal odor.

Muscenone Musk.

Muscomer Extra 810P An animal musk slightly sweet odor.

Muscone Musk.

Musk Booster 8-2-3 # DB10253 Musk.

Musk C - 14 Musk, sweet.

Musk C - 14 Supra Musk, sweet.

Musk 144 Sweet musk.

Musk Abs. C ' Less An animal musky odor powerful and intense.

Musk Alpha A weak animal note, not very sweet.

Musk Ambrette Sweet, but yet heavy floral musky odor.

Musk Emeressence Sweet musk.

Musk Ketone Sweet and very tenacious musky odor.

Musk KN Musk.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Musk T Musk, sweet.

Musk T Supra Musky, fatty.

Musk Tibetine Delicately sweet musky, mildly animal like.

Musk TM II Sweet tenacious musk like.

Muskylein Sweet musk.

Musk Xylol Sweet musk tenacious odor rather harsh.

Nepalva Sweet musky odor.

Oxahexalid Sweet tenacious musk with an ambrette note.

Oxalide T Sweet, soft extremely animal musky odor.

Oxalide T Supra An isomeric sweet musk mixture.

Phantolid Sweet, musky somewhat animal odor.

Phenyl Acetic Acid Sweet honey animalic type odor.

Phenylal A very sweet honey animal odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Mild and warm rose honey like odor.

Polafix Sweet, woody musky odor.

Polaride Sweet and musky odor.

Skatole Powerful sweet warm animal.

Tetralide Musky powdery floral.

Tonalid Sweet woody musky.

Tonalix 50 Strong radiant musk.

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Tonquitone Musk.

Traseolide 100 Sweet musk.

Triflaige - A Tropical, fruity, floral, musk-like.

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Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberfleur 5 Citronellol Prime

38 Coumarin Crystals ( hay like ) 3 Undecatriene
9 Vanilys 1 Florantone T
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 36 Geraniol Coeur
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A .1 Tea Essence
27 Musk 50 DPG 4 Orange Flower Orpur - Givaudan
2 Sandec Givco 75 - Givaudan 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
12 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Meijiff
3 Rose Givco 217 3 Galaxolide
6 Methyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
1 Iso - Rose .8 Roseardia Augustus 14
135 Hydroxycitronellal 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Iso Rose
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Tea Essence
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
2 Iritone V 2 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
3 Aquanol 6 Aldehyde C - 14
25 Eugenol 3 Velvione
5 Hydroxy Citronellal Dma 1 Petilyn
73 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Fleuramone
11 Lilial .2 Geranyl Acetate
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Anisyl Alcohol
310 Di Propylene Glicol
3 Carnation ( Dianthanol ) Iso - Eugenol
21 Rose Base # 60 1,000
3 Geranodyle
2 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
2 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
24 Musc 50 in DPG
59 Benzylacetate
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur

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Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Cashmeran 5 Citronellol Prime

38 Coumarin 3 Undecatriene
9 Vanillin 1 Florantone T
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 36 Geraniol Coeur
.1 Civet Artificial # 1c .1 Tea Essence
27 Musk 50 DPG 4 Orange Flower Base
2 Amyris Oil ( Sandal ) - India 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
12 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Meijiff
3 Rose Givco 217 3 Galaxolide
6 Methyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
1 Meranol .8 Roseardia Augustus 14
138 Hydroxycitronellol 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Iso Rose
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Tea Essence
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
2 Iritone V 2 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
3 Ozomor 6 Aldehyde C - 14
22 Eugenol 3 Velvione
5 Hydroxy Citronellal Dma 1 Petilyn
73 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Fleuramone
15 Lilial .2 Geranyl Acetate
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Anisyl Alcohol
310 Di Propylene Glicol
3 Carnation ( Dianthanol ) Iso - Eugenol
21 Rose Base # 60 1,000
3 Geranodyle
2 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
2 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
24 Musc 50 in DPG
59 Benzylacetate
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberfleur 5 Citronellol Prime

38 Coumarin Crystals 2 Undecatriene
9 Vanilys 1 Florantone T
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 36 Geraniol Coeur
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A .1 Tea Essence
27 Galaxolide Artessence 4 Orange Flower Base
2 Sandalore 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
12 Benzyl Benzoate 10 Ethylene Brassylate
3 Rose Givco 217 3 Galaxolide
6 Methyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
1 Iso - Rose .8 Honey Rose Givco 117
137 Hydroxycitronellal 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Muscone
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Tea Essence
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
2 Iritone V 2 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
3 Aquanol 7 Aldehyde C - 14
25 Eugenol 3 Serenolide
5 Hydroxy Citronellal Dma 1 Scennal
73 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Fleuramone
11 Lilial .2 Geranyl Acetate Prime
2 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
310 Di Propylene Glicol
3 Carnation ( Dianthanol ) Iso - Eugenol
21 Rose Base # 60 1,000
3 Geranodyle
2 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
2 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
24 Musc 50 in DPG
59 Benzyl Acetate Pur
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Ionone Alpha Refined

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Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 1d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Tonalid I - Pfw 5 Citronellol Prime

38 Coumarin Crystals ( hay like ) 3 Undecatriene
9 Vanilys 1 Florantone T
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 36 Geraniol Coeur
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A .1 Tea Essence
34 Musk Gazalle 4 Orange Flower Base
2 Sandec Givco 75 - Givaudan 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
12 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Rose Givco 217 3 Galaxolide 50 - IFF
6 Methyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Sandela 3 Iso Jasmone Pure
1 Iso - Rose .8 Roseardia Augustus 14
130 Hydroxycitronellal 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meijiff
6 Macrolide .1 Tea Essence
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
2 Iritone V 3 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Ethyl Vanillin 3 alpha - Ionone Extra
3 Aquanol 6 Aldehyde C - 14
24 Eugenol 3 Muskylein
5 Hydroxy Citronellal Dma 1 Petilyn
73 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Fleuramone
11 Hydroxycitronellal Pure 55 .2 Geranyl Acetate
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Anisyl Alcohol
309 Di Propylene Glicol
3 Carnation Base
21 Rose Base # 60 1,000
3 Geranodyle
2 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
2 y - Irone
24 Musc 50 in DPG
59 Acetate de Benzila
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Irisone Bis

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Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 1e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Chandanone 5 Citronellol 850

38 Coumarin Crystals ( hay like ) 3 Undecatriene
9 Vanilys 1 Florantone T
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 36 Geraniol Coeur
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A .1 Tea Essence
27 Musk 50 DPG 4 Orange Flower Base
2 Sandalore 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
12 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Meijiff
3 Rose Oil - Bulgaria 3 Galaxolide
5 Methyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Woodynol II - FFC Aroma 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil .8 Roseardia Augustus 14
138 Hydroxycitronellal 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Iso Rose
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Tea Essence
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
2 Iritone V 2 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Ethylvanillin 3 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
3 Aquamor 6 Aldehyde C - 14
25 Eugenol 3 Musk RI
5 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal 1 Petilyn
73 Iso Raldeine Substitute 3 Florosia
11 Lyrame Super .2 Geranyl Acetate
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Anisyl Alcohol
310 Di Propylene Glicol
3 Iso Eugenol - Berje
21 Rose Base # 65 1,000
3 Geranium 2222
2 Iso Musk
2 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
24 Musc 50 in DPG
59 Hedione
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 10
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 alpha - Ionone Extra

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Iso E Super 8 Laurine Extra

5 Ambrox DL 1 Rose Acetate
3 Rose Crystals .1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Osyrol 22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Vanillin 7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
49 Traseolide 100 Base ( Quest Intl. ) 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur
3 Amber Core 3 Citronellol Select
8 Galaxolide 50 9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Vanilla Alcohol .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
2 Damascone 1 Rose Acetate
11 Jasmin Province Base 3 Lilial
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Wardia Substitute
3 Rose Crystals 1 Fleur de Rose - Synarome - France
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 6 Cassis Bourgenons
26 Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Iso Jasmone 8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
5 Gardenia Fleuriff 4 Bois Amberene Forte
40 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
6 Benteine .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Myraldyl Acetate 2 Cananga Odorata
9 Rose Substitute 5 Hydroxyciol
5 Hedione .1 Undecavertol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Wardia
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3 25 Linalol S 97
2 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 4 Neroli - Comores Island
310 Di Propileno Glico 6 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Damascenia 185 SA 3 Jasilyn
38 Geraniol 100 % 1 Rose Oil, Turkish
90 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Orange Oil Sweet
1 Caraway Oil FCC

1,000

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Muskylein 8 Hydroxycitronellol
5 Ambrox DL 1 Rose Acetate
3 Rose Crystals .1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Osyrol 22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Vanillin 7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
52 Musk T - Takasago 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur
3 Amber Core 3 Citronellol Select
8 Galaxolide 50 9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Vanilla Alcohol .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
2 Damascone 1 Damascenone
14 Jasmin Province Base 3 Lilial
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Wardia Substitute
3 Rose Crystals 1 Fleur de Rose - Synarome - France
106 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 6 Cassis Bourgenons
26 Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Jasmone 8 Ionone Alpha 60
5 Gardenia Fleuriff 4 Bois Amberene Forte
40 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
4 Benteine .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 2 Jasmin Oil ( Perfumery Grade )
9 Rose Substitute 5 Hydroxyciol
4 Hedione .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Sub.
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Wardia
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3 25 Linalol S 97
2 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 4 Neroli Artessence
310 Di Propileno Glico 6 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Damascenia 185 SA 3 Jasilyn
38 Geraniol 100 % 1 Rose Oil, Turkish
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Orange Oil of Florida - ( C.P. ) FCC
1 Cinnamon Leaf Oil

1,000

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Iso E Super 8 Musk MX III

5 Ysamber K 1 Rose Acetate
3 Rose Crystals .1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Osyrol 22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Vanillin 7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
49 Traseolide 100 Base ( Quest Intl. ) 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur
3 Amber Core 3 Citronellol FCC
8 Galaxolide 50 9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Vanilla Alcohol .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
2 Damascone 1 Jasmonyl
11 Jasmin Province Base 3 Lyrame Super - IFF
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Wardia Substitute
3 Rose Crystals 1 Pommarose
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 6 Cassis Bourgenons
26 Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
5 Gardenia Fleuriff 4 Bois Amberene Forte
40 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
6 Benteine .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Myraldyl Acetate 2 Cananga Odorata
9 Rose Substitute 5 Hydroxyciol
5 Hedione .1 Undecavertol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Wardia
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3 25 Linalol S 97
2 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 4 Neroli - Comores Island
310 Di Propileno Glico 6 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Musk Cetona 3 Exaltolide
38 Geraniol 100 % 1 Rose Oil, Turkish
90 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Orange Oil ( Cold Pressed ) - Calif.
1 Caraway Oil FCC

1,000

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 2d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Anthea Sandal Sweet 7 Laurine

5 Ambrox DL 1 Rose Acetate
3 Rose Crystals .1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Osyrol 22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Vanillin 7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
45 Traseolide 100 Base ( Quest Intl. ) 32 Linalyl Acetate Pur
3 Amber Core 3 Citronellol Select
8 Galaxolide 50 9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Vanilla Alcohol .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
2 Damascone 1 Rose Acetate
11 Jasmin Province Base 3 Jasilyn
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 13 Wardia Substitute
3 Rose Crystals 1 Fleur de Rose - Synarome - France
108 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 6 Cassis Bourgenons
26 Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Iso Jasmone 8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
5 Amyl Salicylate 4 Bois Amberene Forte
40 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
8 Benteine .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Myraldyl Acetate 2 Cananga Odorata
9 Rose Substitute 5 Hydroxyciol
5 Acetato De Benzila .1 Undecavertol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Musk KS
6 Hyacinth Body No. 2 25 Linalol S 97
2 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 4 Neroli - Comores Island
310 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 6 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Damascenia 185 SA 3 Gardenia
36 Geraniol 100 % 1 Nerol Extra LG
90 Ionone Intermediate Base 8 Orange Oil Sweet
1 Cinnamalva

1,000

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 2e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Kephalis 8 Laurine Extra

5 Rionyl 1 Rose Acetate
3 Rosone .1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Santalex T Neat 22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Di Hydro Iso Jasmone
7 Vanillia Resinoid 7 Palmarosa Oil - India
49 Musk Ambrette Substitute 35 Acetato de Bencila
3 Amber Core 3 Citronellol Select
8 Galaxolide 50 9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Vanilla Alcohol .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
2 Damascone 1 Rose Acetate
11 Jasmin Artificial Base 3 Hydroxycitronellol
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Wardia Substitute
3 Rose Crystals 1 Fleur de Rose - Synarome - France
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 6 Cassis Bourgenons
26 Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Jasmon 8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
5 Gardenia Fleuriff 4 Bois Amberene Forte
40 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
6 Benteine .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Liral 2 Cananga Odorata
9 Rose Substitute 5 Cedroxyde
5 Hedione .1 Undecavertol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Wardia
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3 25 Linalol S 97
2 MDJ 4 Neroli - Comores Island
310 ( DPG ) 5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
1 Damascenia 185 SA 3 Jasilyn
38 Geraniol 100 % 1 Rose Oil, Turkish
90 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 5 Orange Oil Sweet
1 Eugenol - Iso

1,000

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Orpur - Givaudan ( Somalia ) 3 Iso Raldeine 95

6 Benzylalcohol .1 Orange Flower Water
45 Coumane 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 20 Geraniol Pure
17 Musk Gazalle 1 Ylang Givco 225
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 Dianthanol
27 Benzylsalicylate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanillin .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
4 Cashmeran 3 Nerol
3 Fleuramone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 1 Floranton T
5 Musk NC 5 Wardia
1 Vanilla Beans 1 Liveche
18 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Cyclogalbaniff
1 Benzophenone 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
2 Iritone V 1 y - Irone
6 Cinnamicalcohol 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
134 Hydroxycitronellal 7 Musk TM II
28 Eugenol 2 Bourgenal
53 Benzyl Acetate 1 Nepalva
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Farnesyl Acetate
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 35 Linalyl Acetate
65 Iso Raldeine Substitute .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Alpha Damascone
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
2 Vanilla Resinoid
11 Liral
10 Musk 781
2 Geranyl Acetate FCC
.1 Polarose
28 Ethylene Brassylate
24 Linalol 98 %
5 Citronellol 80
9 Orange Blossom Substitute
3 Galaxolide
.1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Artificial 3 Iso Raldeine 95

6 Benzylalcohol .1 Orange Flower Water
45 Coumane 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 20 Geraniol Pure
12 Musk Gazalle 1 Ylang Givco 225
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 Methyl Dianthanol
25 Benzylsalicylate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanillin .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
4 Muskylein 3 Nerol
3 Fleuramone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 1 Floranton T
5 Musk Emeressence 5 Wardia
1 Vanillyl Alcohol 1 Liveche
18 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Cyclogalbaniff
1 Benzophenone 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
2 Iritone V 1 y - Irone
6 Cinnamicalcohol 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
141 Hydroxycitronellal 7 Jasmin P.g.
28 Eugenol 2 Bourgenal
53 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 4 Nepalva
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Farnesyl Acetate
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 35 Linalyl Acetate
65 Iso Raldeine Substitute .3 Bourgenal
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Alpha Damascone
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
2 Vanilla Resinoid
11 Liral
10 Musk Clear
2 Geranyl Acetate FCC
.1 Polarose
28 Musc G 50 in BB
24 Linalol 99 %
5 Citronellol 80
9 Orange Blossom Substitute
3 Galaxolide
.1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less MD 3 Iso Raldeine 95

6 Benzylalcohol .1 Orange Flower Water
45 Coumane 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 20 Geraniol Pure
17 Musk Gazalle 1 Ylang Givco 225
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 Carnaline - Rhodia, France
29 Benzylsalicylate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanillin .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
4 Cashmeran 3 Nerol
3 Fleuramone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 1 Floranton T
3 Musk NC 5 Wardia
1 Vanilla Beans 1 Liveche
18 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Galbanum Oil Resinoid
1 Benzophenone 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
2 Iritone V 1 Exaltex
6 Cinnamicalcohol 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
139 Hydroxycitronellal 10 alpha - Ionone Extra
28 Eugenol 2 Bourgenal
53 Benzyl Acetate 1 Nepalva
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Farnesyl Acetate
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 35 Linalyl Acetate
61 Ionone Alpha 60 .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Alpha Damascone
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
1 Vanilla Resinoid
11 Liral
10 Musk 144
2 Geranyl Acetate FCC
.1 Polarose
28 Ethylene Brassylate
24 Linalol 98 %
5 Citronellol 80
9 Orange Blossom Substitute
3 Galaxolide
.1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 3d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Orpur - Givaudan ( Somalia ) 3 Ionone Alpha Refined

6 Benzylalcohol .1 Orange Flower Water
45 Coumane 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 30 Geraniol Pure
17 Musk Gazalle 1 Ylang Givco 225
8 Brahmanol F 2 Isoeugenol ( Carnation ) - Red
27 Benzylsalicylate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanillin .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Nerol
3 Fleuramone 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
14 Hydroxy Citronellal 1 Floranton T
5 Fixolid 5 Wardia
1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Stemone
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Hidroxicitronelal
1 Benzophenone 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
2 Iritone V 1 y - Irone
6 Troenan 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
136 Hydroxycitronellal 7 Bois de Rose Oil
28 Eugenol 2 Bourgenal
53 Benzyl Acetate 1 Nepalva
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Farnesyl Acetate
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 35 Linalyl Acetate
65 Iso Raldeine Substitute .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Beta Damascone
303 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
2 Vanilla Resinoid
11 Lyral
10 Celestolid
2 Geranyl Acetate Pure
.1 Polarose
28 Galaxolide 50
24 Linalol 98 %
5 Citronellol - L
9 Orange Blossom Substitute
3 Galaxolide
.1 Rose Essence Abs.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 3e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Orpur - Givaudan ( Somalia ) 3 Iris Beurre Oil

6 Benzyl Alcohol .1 Orange Flower Water
45 Coumane 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 20 Geraniol Pure
7 Musk Emeressence 1 Ylang Petals I
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 4 Dianthanol
27 Benzylsalicylate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
6 Vanillin .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
4 Cashmeran 3 Nerol
3 Fleuramone 2 Styralyl Acetate
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 1 Floranton T
5 Musk Ketone 9 Wardia Substitute
1 Vanilla Beans 1 Liveche
18 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Cyclogalbaniff
1 Benzophenone 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
2 Iritone V 1 Iridales
6 Cinnamicalcohol 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
144 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 7 Palmarosa Oil
28 Eugenol 2 Bourgenal
53 Benzyl Acetate 1 Nepalva
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Farnesyl Acetate
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 35 Linalyl Acetate Special
65 Iso Raldeine Substitute .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Alpha Damascone
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
2 Vanilla Resinoid
11 Laurine
10 Musk 781
2 Acetato de Geranyle FFC
.1 Polarose
25 Ethylene Brassylate
24 Linalol 98 %
5 Citronellol 80
9 Orange Blossom Substitute
3 Muskylein
.1 Violiff

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Amyris Oil W.I. .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

49 Coumarin Substitute 28 Linalol Pur
1 Civet Tincture .7 Poirinate
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 4 Anis Aldehyde
37 Muskylein .1 Folione
6 Kephalis 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
7 Vanillin 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 9 Orange Blossom Base
54 Hydroxycitronellal 3 Apple Blossom
1 Thymol Crystals 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
8 Lilial 2 Iris Beurre Oil
17 Traseolide 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
5 Iso Jasmone .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Tuberose Oliffac
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Fleuramone
1 Ivyal 4 Cassis Fragrance B
142 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 15 Wardia Substitute
3 Citronellol 850 FCC 2 Meranol
28 Eugenol .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Troenan 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
.1 Alcohol C - 9 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
22 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 4 Nutmeg Oil - W.I.
75 Ionone Intremediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
20 Geraniol 970 1 Para Cresyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Bourgenal
3 Jasmylone 99 18 Linalyl Acetate
12 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Boisnal 1,000
5 Hydroxycitronellol

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Brahmanol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

49 Coumarin Substitute 28 Linalol
1 Civet Tincture .7 Perryfix - Creations Aromatiques, S
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 4 Anis Aldehyde
37 Musk Ambrette Substitute .1 Ionone 100 %
6 Kephalis 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
7 Vanillin 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 9 Orange Blossom Base
54 Hydroxycitronellal 3 Apple Blossom
1 Thymol Crystals 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
8 Lilial 2 Iris Beurre Oil
17 Musk BSI 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
5 Iso Rose .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Tuberose Oliffac
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Fleuramone
1 Ivyal 4 Cassis Fragrance B
142 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 15 Wardia Substitute
3 Citronellol 850 2 Rose Petals - Bulgaria
28 Eugenol .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Troenan 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
.1 Alcohol C - 9 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
22 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 4 Nutmeg Oil - W.I.
75 Ionone Intremediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
20 Geraniol 970 1 Para Cresyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Bourgenal
3 Benzyl Acetate F.C.C. 18 Linalyl Acetate
12 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Boisnal 1,000
5 Mallow

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Sandiff .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

49 Coumarin Crystals 25 Linalol Pur
1 Civet Tincture .7 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
32 ( DEP ) - Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 Anis Aldehyde
27 Triflaige - A .1 Folione
6 Kephalis 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
7 Vanillin 1 Tetralide
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 9 Orange Blossom Base
54 Hydroxycitronellal 3 Apple Blossom
1 Thymol Crystals 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
8 Lilial 2 Iris Beurre Oil
27 Tonalid II 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
5 Iso Jasmone .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Tuberose Oliffac
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Fleuramone
1 Ivyal 4 Cassis Fragrance B
142 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 15 Wardia Substitute
3 Citronellol 850 FCC 2 Meranol
28 Iso Eugenol Replacement .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Troenan 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
.1 Alcohol C - 9 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
22 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 4 Nutmeg Oil - W.I.
75 Ionone Intremediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
20 Geraniol 970 1 Lilie
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Bois Amberene Forte
3 Jasmylone 99 18 Linalyl Acetate
12 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
7 Phenylethylalcohol
3 Petilyn 1,000
5 Hydroxy Citronellal

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 4d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Timber Forte .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

49 Coumarin Substitute 28 Linalol Pur
1 Civet Paste - Ethiopia .7 Poirinate
29 Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 Anis Aldehyde
37 Muskylein .1 Folione
6 Kephalis 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
7 Vanillin 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
2 Methyl Iso Eugenol 9 Orange Blossom Base
54 Hydroxycitronellal 3 Verdox
1 Iso Bornyl Crystals 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
8 Lilial 2 alpha - Ionone Extra
17 Traseolide 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
5 Iso Jasmone .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Ethylvanillin 1 Tuberose Oliffac
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Fleuramone
1 Ivyal 4 Cassis Fragrance B
145 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 15 Wardia Substitute
3 Citronellol 850 2 Musk T
28 Eugenol .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Troenan 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
.1 Alcohol C - 9 3 Methyl Octyl Ketone
22 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 4 Nutmeg Oil - W.I.
75 Ionone Intremediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
20 Geraniol 970 1 Para Cresyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Bourgenal
3 Di Hydro Jasmone 18 Linalyl Acetate
12 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Jasilyn 1,000
5 Hydroxyciol

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 4e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Amyris Oil W.I. .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

49 Coumarin 28 Linalool
1 Mousse De Chenne .7 Iso Rose
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 4 Aubepine
37 Musk Ambrette Substitute .1 Orange Flower Artessence Abs.
6 Iso E Super 3 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
7 Vanillin 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
2 Heliotropine 11 Orange Blossom Base
54 Hydroxycitronellal 3 Apple Blossom
1 Thymol Crystals 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
8 Lilial 2 Meranol
17 Serenolide 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
5 Iso Jasmone .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Methyl Octyl Ketone - Bedoukian
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Phyllos
1 Irisone Bis 3 Cassifix
142 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 15 Wardia Substitute
3 Citronellol 850 FCC 2 Nerol petals
28 Eugenol .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Troenan 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
.1 Alcohol C - 9 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
22 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Cinnamon Leaf Oil
75 Ionone Intremediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
20 Geraniol Prime 1 Para Cresyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Bourgenal
3 Jasmelia 18 Linalylacetate
12 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
7 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
4 Mugone S 207 M 1,000
5 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Orange Flor Deco

6 Amyris Oil - West Indian Sandal .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civette Givco 73 6 Bourgenal
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Thesaron - Givaudan
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 Javanol .1 Geraniol 600
9 Vanillin 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
.1 Polarose 1 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Kir Base # 9741
11 Musk GX 17 Tuberose Substitute
3 Petilyn 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
62 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
109 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Iso Raldeine 70
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
23 Geraniol Coeur 4 Wardia
9 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
1 Rosone 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
83 Ionone Intermediate Base .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
6 Di Methyl Octanol 6 Irisone Bis
4 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Orange Flower Augustus 18
1 Oxide De Rosa 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
21 Carnation Base .1 Meranol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 26 Linalyl Acetate
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Jasilyn
5 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol 850 - ( BBA ) or IFF 1,000
1 Ionone
33 Linalol
2 Hydratropic Aldehyde
3 Fleuramone
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzylalcohol 7 Orange Flor Deco

6 Sandalwood, India .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civet Orpur - Givaudan ( Ethiopia ) 6 Bourgenal
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 1 Thesaron - Givaudan
53 Serenolide .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 Javanol .1 Rose Essence Abs. - Morocco
9 Vanillin 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
.1 Polarose 1 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Kir Base # 9741
11 Musk GX 17 Tuberose Substitute
3 Petilyn 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
62 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
109 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Ionone For Soap - Berje
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 15 Orange Blossom Base
23 Geraniol Coeur 4 Wardia
9 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
1 Exaltolide 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
83 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
6 Di Methyl Octanol 6 Irisone Bis
4 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Orange Flower Augustus 18
1 Musk R - 1 3 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
21 Iso Eugenol Replacement .1 Meranol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 26 Linalyl Acetate
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Jasilyn
5 Ionone Alpha Refined
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol 80 1,000
1 Para Cresyl redistilled
28 Linalol 99%
2 Hydratropic Aldehyde
3 Nerol Petals
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Orange Flor Deco

6 Amyris Oil - West Indian Sandal .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civette Givco 73 6 Bourgenal
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Thesaron - Givaudan
59 Galaxolide 50 DPG .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 Javanol .1 Rose Crystals
9 Vanillin 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
.1 Polarose 1 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Vert de Cassis Givco
11 Musk GX 17 Tuberose Substitute
3 Petilyn 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
62 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
109 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Ionone Alpha 70
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
23 Geraniol Coeur 4 Wardia
4 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
1 Rosone 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
83 Ionone Intermediate Base .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
3 Di Methyl Octanol 6 Irisone Bis
4 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Orange Flower Augustus 18
1 Oxide De Rosa 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
21 Carnation Base .1 Meranol
.1 Iso Mohaganol 26 Linalyl Acetate
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Jasilyn
5 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
18 Citronellol 850 - ( BBA ) or IFF 1,000
1 Styralyl Acetate
33 Linalool Extra Pure
2 Hydratropic Aldehyde
3 Iso Rose
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 5d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Orange Flor Deco

6 Amyris Oil - West Indian Sandal .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civette Givco 73 4 Bois Amberene Forte
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Thesaron - Givaudan
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 Javanol .1 Geraniol 600
9 Vanillin 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
.1 Polarose 1 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Kir Base # 9741
11 Musk GX 17 Tuberose Substitute
3 Petilyn 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
62 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
109 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Iso Raldeine 70
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
23 Geraniol Coeur 4 Wardia
9 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Benzila Phenil Acetato
1 Rosone 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
83 Ionone Intermediate Base .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Lilial 4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
6 Di Methyl Octanol 6 alpha - Ionone Extra
4 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Orange Flower Augustus 18
1 Oxide De Rosa 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
21 Carnation Base .1 Geranium Oil - Chinese
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 28 Linalyl Acetate
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Stemone
5 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol Extra 1,000
1 Meranol
33 Etil Linalol - Givaudan - Switz.
1 Hydratropic Aldehyde
3 Folrosia
20 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 5e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Hercolyn - D 7 Orange Flor Deco

6 Amyris - Haiti .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Exaltolide 6 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Thesaron - Givaudan
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 Javanol .1 Geraniol 600
9 Vanillin 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
.1 Polarose 1 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Benzyl Propionate 3 Kir Base # 9741
11 Musk GX 17 Tuberose Substitute
3 Petilyn 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
62 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
119 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Orange Blossom Base
23 Geraniol Coeur 4 Wardia
10 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
1 Rosone 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
83 Ionone Intermediate Base .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
6 Rhodinol Ex Palmarosa Oil 6 Irisone Bis
2 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Orange Flower Augustus 18
1 Oxide De Rosa 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
21 Carnation Base .1 Meranol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 26 Linalyl Acetate
316 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 Iso Musk
4 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol 850 - ( BBA ) or IFF 1,000
1 Phyllos
33 Linalol
2 Hydratropic Aldehyde
4 Efintaal
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 6a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide .1 Top Rose ABQ 5644

7 Vanillin 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
46 Coumane 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 26 Geraniol Extra Ex Citronella
39 Musk Xylene Substitute .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Benzylsalicylate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
23 Hidroxicitronelal 34 Linalool
2 Roseone .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Musk 144 - Takasago 1 Nutmeg E.I.
52 Acetato Benzila 4 Geranium over Roses
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
4 Sandela 1 Damascenia 185 SA
115 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute 5 Muguet Aldehyde
6 Hydrofix R .3 Acetate De Geranyle
3 Heliotropine 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 3 Sandalore
5 Vanillinethyl 1 Rose Chine
13 Hedione 27 Linalyl Acetate
83 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Nerol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Santalyl Acetate 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
3 alpha - Ionone Extra 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
25 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Musk Clear
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Neo Geranium Oil
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
3 Iso Jasmone

276

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 6b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less MD .1 Top Rose ABQ 5644

7 Vanillin 5 Cassifix
44 Coumane 2 Orange Oil Bitter
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 26 Geraniol Extra Ex Citronella
39 Musk Xylene Substitute .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Benzylsalicylate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
23 Hidroxicitronelal 34 Linalool
1 Roseone .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Musk 144 - Takasago 1 Dianthanol
52 Hedione 4 Geranium over Roses
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
4 Sandela 1 Damascenia 185 SA
118 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Muguet Aldehyde
6 Hydrofix L .3 Acetate De Geranyle
3 Heliotropine 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 3 Sandalore
5 Vanillinethyl 1 Rose Chine
13 Hedione 28 Linalyl Acetate
83 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Nerol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Santalyl Acetate 1 Ylang Ylang I
3 Iris Beurre Oil 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
25 Iso Eugenol Replacement 5 Musk Emeressence
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia Acetal
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Citronellol Natural
1 Geraniu Rose China
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
17 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
3 Jasmonyl Acetate

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 6c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide .1 Top Rose ABQ 5644

9 Vanillin 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
46 Coumane 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 26 Geraniol Extra
39 Musk Xylene Substitute .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
11 Benzylsalicylate 1 Heliobouquet
1 Amberwood 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
23 Hidroxicitronelal 34 Linalool
2 Roseone .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Musk T ( Ethylene Brassylate ) 1 Nutmeg E.I.
48 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 4 Geranium over Roses
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
4 Sandela 1 Damascenia 185 SA
118 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute 6 Muguet Aldehyde
6 Hydrofix R .3 Acetate De Geranyle
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 3 Sandalore
5 Vanillinethyl 1 Damascenia 185 SA
13 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 27 Linalyl Acetate
83 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Meranol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Sandela 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
3 alpha - Ionone Extra 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
25 Iso Eugenol Replacement 5 Musk Clear
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Citronellol Coeur
1 Neo Geranium Oil
3 Geranyl Acetate 60
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
3 Lyrame

278

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 6d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs. C’Less MD .1 Top Rose ABQ 5644

7 Vanilys 7 Vert de Cassis Givco
46 Coumarin Substitute 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 26 Geraniol Prime
39 Musk Xylene Substitute .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Benzylsalicylate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
23 Hidroxicitronelal 32 Linalool
2 Roseone .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Triflaige - A 1 Nutmeg E.I.
52 Benzyle Acetate 4 Geranium over Roses
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
4 Sandela 2 Damascenia 185 SA
113 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute 5 Muguet Aldehyde
6 Hydrofix R .3 Geranyl Acetate
3 Heliotropine 1 Iso Jasmone
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 3 Sandela
5 Vanillinethyl 1 Rose Chine
16 Hedione 27 Linalyl Acetate
83 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Nerol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Santalyl Acetate 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
25 Iso Eugenol Replacement 5 1000 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate
4 Lyral
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Geranium Oil Bourbon
3 Geranyl Acetate A - IFF ( BBA )
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Rose Otto Oil - Bulgaria
3 Iso Jasmone

279

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 6e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Top Rose ABQ 5644

7 Vanillin 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
46 Coumane 3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 26 Geraniol Extra Ex Citronella
39 Musk Xilol .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
23 Hidroxicitronelal 34 Linalool
2 Roseone .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Nutmeg E.I.
52 Acetatobenzila 4 Geranium over Roses
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
4 Osyrol 1 Damascenia 185 SA
111 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute 5 Muguet Aldehyde
8 Hydrofix R .3 Geranyl Acetate Nat.
3 Heliotropine 2 Rhododendrum Oil - China
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 3 Amyris Oil W.I.
5 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1 Rose Chine
13 Hedione 29 Linalyl Acetate
87 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Nerol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Santalyl Acetate 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
3 alpha - Ionone 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
25 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Ganolide
6 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia 1110
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Benzophenone
3 Geranyl Acetate Ex Palmarosa
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
3 MDJ Super

280

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 7a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 4 Melon Oliffac

8 Galaxolide 50 DPG 5 Muguet Aldehyde
9 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Di Methyl Octanol
.1 Civet Ethiopia 3 Nerolin Crystals
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
19 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
17 Osyrol 5 Florantone T
2 Musk Emeressence 35 Geraniol 7030 - IFF
1 Rose Crystals 31 Linalool
5 Heliotropine 8 Orange Blossom Base
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Folione
67 Benzylacetate 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Iso Jasmone
7 Benteine .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Vanillinethyl 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
.1 Alcohol C - 09 2 Nerol
129 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Phantolide
8 Iso E Super 1 Scennal
5 Musk Cetone .1 Leaf Acetal
19 Meijiff 2 Iso Eugenol
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 7 Orangeflor
1 Rose Crystals 1 Verotyl
25 Eugenol 1 Bois Amberene Forte
14 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Eugenyl Acetate
2 Magnol 2 Cassis Fragrance
319 Di Propylene Glycol 34 Linalyl Acetate
3 Tonalid II - Pfw
7 Citronellol Nat.
6 Honey Rose Givco 75 1,000
3 Lioral
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 4 Melon Oliffac

15 Galaxolide 50 DPG 5 Muguet Aldehyde
9 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Di Methyl Octanol
.1 Civet Powder # 4b 3 Neroli Artessence
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
19 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
17 Osyrol 5 Florantone T
2 Musk Emeressence 35 Geraniol 7030 - IFF
1 Rose Crystals 31 Linalool Special 99.5 %
5 Heliotropine 8 Orange Blossom Base
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Folione
67 Benzylacetate 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Iso Jasmone
7 Benteine .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
.1 Alcohol C - 09 2 Nerol
132 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Musk KS
8 Iso E Super 1 Scennal
5 Musk Cetone .1 Leaf Acetal
19 Meijiff 2 Iso Eugenol
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 7 Orangeflor
1 Rose Crystals 1 Thesaron
25 Catnation Base 1 Bois Amberene Forte
14 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Eugenyl Acetate
2 Magnol 2 Cassis Fragrance
309 Di Propylene Glycol 34 Linalyl Acetate
3 Tonalid II - Pfw
7 Citronellol A.J.
6 Honey Rose Givco 57 1,000
3 Lioral
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Rhodinol Coeur

282

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 7c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 4 Melon Oliffac

8 Galaxolide 50 DPG 5 Muguet Aldehyde
13 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Di Methyl Octanol
.1 Civet Ethiopia 3 Nerolin Crystals
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
19 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
17 Osyrol 5 Florantone T
2 Musk Emeressence 35 Geraniol 7030 - IFF
1 Rose Crystals 31 Linalool
5 Heliotropine 8 Orange Blossom Base
11 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Undecavertol
67 Benzyl Acetate FCC 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Iso Jasmone
7 Benteine .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Vanillinethyl 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
.1 Alcohol C - 09 2 Geranylacetate
130 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Nepalva
8 Bacdanol 1 Scennal
5 Musk Emeressence .1 Leaf Acetal
19 Meijiff 2 Iso Eugenol
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 7 Orangeflor
1 Rose Crystals 1 Verotyl
25 Eugenol 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
14 Hydroxy Citronellal Dma 3 Eugenyl Acetate
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Vert de Cassis Givco 61
319 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 33 Linalyl Acetate
3 Tonalid II - Pfw
7 Citronellol 700 98 - TA - IFF
6 Phyllos 1,000
3 Iridales
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
12 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil - India

283

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 7d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 4 Melon Oliffac

8 Galaxolide 50 DPG 5 Muguet Aldehyde
9 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Di Methyl Octanol
.1 Civet Ethiopia 3 Nerolin Crystals
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
19 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Rose De Mai Abs. - France
17 Osyrol 5 Florantone T
2 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 35 Geraniol 7030 - IFF
1 Rose Crystals 31 Linalool
5 Heliotropine 9 Orange Blossom Base
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Folione
65 Benzylacetate 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Iso Jasmone
7 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
.1 Alcohol C - 09 2 Nerol
131 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Phantolide
8 Iso E Super 1 Scennal
5 Macrolide Supra - Symrise .1 Leaf Acetal
19 Lilial 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol ( Carnation )
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 7 Orangeflor
1 Rose Crystals 1 Verotyl
25 Eugenol 1 Bois Amberene Forte
10 Troenan 3 Eugenyl Acetate
2 Magnol 2 Cassis Fragrance
319 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 34 Linalyl Acetate
3 Tonalid II - Pfw
7 Citronellol Nat.
6 Honey Rose Givco 75 1,000
3 Hidroxicitronelal
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia

284

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 7e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 4 Melon Oliffac

8 Galaxolide 50 DPG 5 Muguet Aldehyde
9 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Chandanone
.1 Civet Ethiopia 3 Nerolin Crystals
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
19 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
17 Osyrol 5 Florantone T
2 Musk Emeressence 35 Geraniol 970
1 Rose Crystals 31 Linalool
5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 8 Orange Blossom Base
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Folione
67 Benzylacetate 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less MD 1 Iso Jasmone
7 Benteine .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Vanillinethyl 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
.1 Alcohol C - 09 2 Nerol
129 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Phantolide
8 Iso E Super 1 Scennal
5 Musk Cetone .1 Leaf Acetal
19 Meijiff 2 Carnation Flower ( Dianthanol )
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 7 Orangeflor
1 Rose Crystals 1 Veraflor
25 Eugenol 1 Bois Amberene Forte
2 cis - Jasmone 3 Eugenyl Acetate
14 Magnol 2 Bois Amberene Forte
319 Di Propylene Glycol 34 Linalyl Acetate
3 Tonalid II - Pfw
7 Citronellol Nat.
6 Honey Rose Givco 75 1,000
3 Lily of the Valley
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Geranium Oil Extra

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 8a Int

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Helional 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Benzophenone 1 Cassia Oliffac
55 Galaxolide Artessence 32 Linalol Pur
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 2 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
.2 Civet Powder # 1b .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
32 DEP 3 Troenan
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang I
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
33 MDJ 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor 23
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 2 Meranol
11 Vanillin 1 Iso - Eugenol
2 Musk Emeressence 5 Cassis Fragrance
114 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Jasmon Oil P.G. 25 Linalyl Acetate
2 Iso Jasmone .3 Tuberose Oliffac
14 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Methyl Benzoate 4 Geranyl Acetate
107 Ionone Intermediate Base 6 Hydroxycitronellal
6 Citronellol 70 % 1 Wardia
3 Galaxolide 50 BB .1 Geraniol 600
9 Hysimal 2 Perryfix ( Symrise ) Creations A.
36 Geraniol 970 2 Neryl Acetate
27 Iso Eugenol Replacement
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur 1,000
2 Nerol
.1 Celestolid
4 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.1 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 8b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Alicate 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Benzophenone 1 Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Madagascar
45 Galaxolide Artessence 32 Linalol 98 %
.1 Vanilla Absolute. 2 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
.2 Civet Powder # 1b .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
29 DEP 3 Troenan
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Alpha Damascone .1 Ylang Ylang II
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
33 MDJ 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Ionone Alpha 60 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor 9
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 2 Meranol
11 Vanillin 1 Iso - Eugenol
2 Musc T - ( Etilen Brassilato ) Musk 5 Cassis Fragrance
124 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Zeppin 25 Linalyl Acetate
2 Jasmonyl Acetate .3 Tuberose Oliffac
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 4 Geranyl Acetate
107 Ionone Intermediate Base 6 Hydroxycitronellal
6 Citronellol 70 % 1 Wardia
3 Galaxolide 50 BB .1 Geraniol 600
9 Hysimal 2 Perryfix ( Symrise ) Creations A.
36 Geraniol 970 2 Neryl Acetate
27 Iso Eugenol Replacement
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur 1,000
2 Nerol
.1 Muscade Noix
4 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.1 Alcohol C - 9
7 Stemone

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 8c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Helional 15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Benzophenone 1 Cassia Oliffac
52 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 32 Linalol Pur
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 2 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
.2 Civet Powder # 1b .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Troenan
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang II
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
31 Benzyl Acetate 4 Wardia
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor 16
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Meranol
11 Vanillin 1 Dianthanol
2 Musk Emeressence 5 Cassis Fragrance
120 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Jasmon Oil P.G. 25 Linalyl Acetate
2 Iso Jasmone .3 Tuberose Oliffac
14 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Methyl Benzoate 4 Geranyl Acetate
107 Ionone Intermediate Base 6 Hydroxycitronellal
6 Citronellol 70 % 1 Rhodinol
3 Cashmeran .1 Rose Oxide CO
9 Benteine 2 Perryfix - Creations Aromatiques
36 Geraniol 970 2 Geranyl Acetate
27 Iso Eugenol Replacement
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur 1,000
2 Nerol
.1 Muskylein
4 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.1 Alcohol C - 9
7 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 8d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Benzophenone 1 Cinnamic Aldehyde
55 Galaxolide Artessence 32 Linalol Pur
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 2 Irisone Bis
.2 Civet Powder # 1b .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
32 DEP 3 Hyacinth PP
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang III
10 Benzyl Salicylate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
33 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 2 Palmarosa Oil - India
11 Vanillin 1 Iso - Eugenol
2 Musk Emeressence 5 Cassis Fragrance
114 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Jasmon Oil P.G. 25 Linalyl Acetate
2 Iso Jasmone .3 Tuberose Oliffac
14 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Methyl Benzoate 4 Geraniol Pur
107 Ionone Intermediate Base 6 Hydroxycitronellal
6 Citronellol 70 % 1 Wardia
3 Galaxolide 50 BB .1 Rose Essence Abs. - Morocco
9 Hysimal 2 Perryfix - Perry Brothers ( Symrise )
36 Geraniol Coeur 2 Neryl Acetate
27 Carnation Base
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur 1,000
2 Nerol
.1 Geraniol Extra
4 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Jasmin Sambac Abs. - India
.1 Alcohol C - 10
7 Bois Amberene Forte

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 8e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Helional 17 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Rose Crystals 1 Cassia Oliffac
55 Galaxolide Substitute ( Musk ) 32 Linalol Pur
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
.2 Civet Powder # 3c .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
32 DEP 3 Wardia - Firmenich
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang I
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
33 Benzyle Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 2 Meranol
11 Vanillin 1 Iso - Eugenol
2 Musk G 50 in DEP 5 Cassis Fragrance
125 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Jasmon Oil P.G. 27 Linalyl Acetate
2 Iso Jasmone .3 Tuberose Oliffac
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Methyl Benzoate 4 Geranyl Acetate
101 Ionone Intermediate Base 6 Hydroxycitronellal
6 Citronellol 70 % 1 Iso Rose
3 Musc Clear .1 Geraniol 600
4 Meijiff 2 Anapear - Givaudan
36 Geraniol 970 2 Neryl Acetate
27 Iso Eugenol Replacement
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate 1,000
2 Nerol
.1 Celestolid
4 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
8 Methyl Phenyl Acetate
.1 Jasmin Abs. - India
.1 Alcohol C - 9
7 Scennal

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 9a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Augaflor 27 1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil - India

8 Benzyl Benzoate 7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
47 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Polarose
5 Vanillin 3 Orangeflor
11 Sandalwood Oliffac 5 Wardia
24 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 27 Linalol S 97
51 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
6 Kephalis 3 Top Galbanum
4 Hydrofix L 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
1 Acetate Iso Eugenol 12 Phenylethylalcohol
61 Hedione 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Top Muguet
4 Florosia 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
7 Anthea Sandal Coeur .2 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flor
97 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
55 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.3 Alcohol C - 10 3 Scennal
6 Lili 9 Linalyl Acetate 99.5 %
3 Citronellol Prime .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
1 Vanilys 1 Florantone T
9 Lyrame .1 Rose Essence Abs. - Bulgaria
72 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Neryl Acetate
7 Bonorax 2 Fleuramone
9 Givescone 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol Prime 1,000
2 Iso Jasmone
3 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
5 Nutmeg - Sri. Lanka

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 9b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide 1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil - India

8 Benzyl Benzoate 7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
47 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 4 Irisone Bis
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Polarose
5 Vanisal 3 Orangeflor
11 Javanol 5 Rose Acetate
24 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 27 Linalol S 97
51 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
6 Iso E Super 3 Top Galbanum
4 Hydrofix L 1 Tangerinol - Givaudan ( Fresh )
1 Acetate Iso Eugenol 12 Phenylethylalcohol
51 Hedione 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Top Muguet
4 Florosia 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
7 Anthea Sandal Coeur .2 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flor
107 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
55 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.3 Alcohol C - 10 3 Wardia
6 Para Cresyl Redistilled 9 Linalyl Acetate 99.5 %
3 Citronellol Prime .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
1 Vanillin 1 Musk T
9 Lyrame .1 Rose Essence Abs. - Bulgaria
72 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Neryl Acetate
7 Mallow 2 Fleuramone
9 Givescone 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol Prime 1,000
2 Iso Jasmone
3 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
5 Nutmeg - Sri. Lanka

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 9c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Augaflor 27 1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil - India

8 Benzyl Benzoate 7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
47 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Patchwood - Pfw Fragrance Contest
5 Vanillin 3 Orangeflor
11 Sandalwood Oliffac 5 Wardia
24 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 27 Linalol S 97
51 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
6 Kephalis 3 Top Galbanum
2 Hydrofix L 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
1 Heliotropine 12 Phenylethylalcohol
61 Hedione 3 Geranyl Acetate SP
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Top Muguet
4 Florosia 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
7 Woodynol I .2 Methyl Tuberate Pure
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flor
106 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
55 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.3 Alcohol C - 10 3 Scennal
6 Lily of the Valley 9 Linalylacetate
3 Citronellol Prime .1 Folione
1 Vanilys 1 Florantone T
9 Lyrame .1 Rose Essence Abs. - Bulgaria
72 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Neryl Acetate
7 Bonorax 2 Fleuramone
9 Givescone 2 Cassis Fragrance D
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol Prime 1,000
2 Jasmone
3 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
5 Caraway Oil - Holland

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 9d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Augaflor 27 1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil - India

8 Benzyl Benzoate 7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
53 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Polarose
5 Vanillin 3 Orangeflor
11 Sandalwood Oliffac 5 Wardia
24 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 27 Linalol synthetic
51 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
6 Kephalis 3 Top Galbanum
4 Hydrofix R 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
1 Acetate Iso Eugenol 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
61 Hedione 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Mugone S 207 M
4 Lily Aldehyde 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
7 Anthea Sandal Coeur .2 Tuberose Substitute
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flor
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
55 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.3 Alcohol C - 10 3 Scennal
6 Lili 9 Linalyl Acetate 99.5 %
3 Citronellol Prime .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
1 Vanilys 1 Florantone T
9 Gardenia Fleuriff .1 Rose Essence Abs. - Bulgaria
62 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra .1 Neryl Acetate
7 Bonorax 2 Fleuramone
9 Givescone 2 Cassifix
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol Prime 1,000
2 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
3 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
5 Terpinyl Acetate

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 9e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 1a 1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil - India

8 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
50 Nivandide 2 Jasmonyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Polarose
5 Vanillin 3 Orangeflor
11 Sandalwood Oliffac 5 Wardia
24 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 27 Linalol S 97
51 Coumane 16 Orange Blossom Base
6 Kephalis 3 Top Galbanum
4 Hydrofix L 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
1 Acetate Iso Eugenol 12 Phenylethylalcohol
61 Hedione 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Top Muguet
4 Florosia 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
7 Sandalwood Oliffac .2 Tubereuse 181
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flor
97 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Palmarosa, Belize
54 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate - MDJ 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.3 Alcohol C - 10 3 Stemone
6 Lili 9 Linalyl Acetate
2 Citronellol 98 % .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
1 Vanilys 1 Florantone T
8 Lyrame .1 Rose Essence Abs. - Bulgaria
72 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Nerol Petals
7 Bonorax 2 Meranol
9 Muskylein 2 Bois Amberene Forte
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Irisone Bis
23 Geraniol Extra 1,000
2 Jasilyn
3 Lilial
5 Nutmeg - India ( Sambac ) Pure

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 10a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Crystals ex Benzaldehyde 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Etilen Brassilato 3 Hidroxicitornelal
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 22 Linalool
4 Heliotropine .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 7
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
50 Traseolide 100 Base 3 Neroli - Morocco
8 Vanillin 17 Geraniol Pure
7 Laurine 8 Orange Blossom Base
9 Brahmanol 5 Geranyl Acetate
48 Super Cepionate 6 Cassis Fragrance
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Beta Damascone 3 Galolid
4 Anis Aldehyde 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
113 Hydroxycitronellal 2 Irisone Bis
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 19 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Pamplemousse E. Blanc
7 Methyl Benzoate 1 Iso Eugenol
9 Hedione 36 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellol 850 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida
13 Mallow .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Nepalva 1 alpha - Ionone Extra
8 Acetate Benzyle .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Sandacanal 1 Muguet Alcohol
25 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil 1 Bergamot Oil Italy - C.C.C.
10 Ionone Alpha Refined
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
24 Eugenol
1 Geranium Orpur Italy - Givaudan
3 Jasmone
75 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Aldehyde
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Nerol
2 Massoia Ecorce - India

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 10b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin 5091 P 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

7 Musk Tops 3 Hidroxicitornelal
9 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 22 Linalool
4 Heliotropine .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 7
31 Phthalate D’Ethyl 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
46 Musk 50 DEP 3 Neroli - Morocco
8 Vanillin 27 Geraniol 60
7 Laurine 8 Orange Blossom Base
9 Brahmanol 5 Geranyl Acetate
48 MDJ 6 Cassis Fragrance
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Beta Damascone 3 Galolid
4 Anis Aldehyde 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
118 Hydroxycitronellal 2 Irisone Bis
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 19 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil ( White/Pink )
7 Methyl Benzoate 1 Iso Eugenol
9 Hedione 36 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellol 850 2 Tangerine Oil - Florida
13 Mallow .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Cashmeran 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
8 Acetate Benzyle .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Sandacanal 1 Muguet Alcohol
15 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil 1 Bergamot Oil Italy - C.C.C.
10 Ionone Alpha Refined
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
24 Eugenol
1 Geranium Africa, Bourbon
3 Jasmone
75 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Lyrame Super
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Iso Rose
2 Massoia Ecorce - India

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 10c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin 5091 P 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

7 Musk Tops 3 Scennal
9 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 22 Trinalool - Flexitrail
4 Heliotropine .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 7
30 Phthalate D’Ethyl 1 Terpinyl Acetate
46 Musk RI 3 Neroli - Morocco
8 Vanillin 27 Geraniol 60
7 Laurine 8 Orange Blossom Base
9 Brahmanol 5 Geranyl Acetate
44 Benzylacetate 6 Cassis Fragrance
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Beta Damascone 3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
4 Anis Aldehyde 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
123 Hydroxycitronellal 2 Irisone Bis
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 19 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil ( White/Pink )
7 Methyl Benzoate 1 Iso Eugenol
9 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 36 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellol 850 2 Tangerinol - Givaudan
13 Mallow .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Cashmeran 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
8 Acetate Benzyle .1 Leaf Acetal
3 Sandacanal 1 Muguet Alcohol
15 Geraniol Fine 1 Bergamot Oils
10 Iris Beurre Oil
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
24 Eugenol
1 Geranium Africa, Bourbon
3 Jasmone
75 Ionone Intermediate Base
3 Scennal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Geranylacetate
2 Lioral

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Musk

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 10d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin 5091 P 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

7 Musk Tops 3 Wardia
9 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 22 Linalool
4 Heliotropine .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 7
31 Phthalate D’Ethyl 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
46 Musk 50 DEP 3 Neroli - Morocco
8 Vanillin 29 Geraniol Prime
7 Petilyn 8 Orange Blossom Base
9 Sandiff 7 Geranyl Acetate
48 MDJ 6 Cassis Fragrance
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Beta Damascone 3 Galolid
4 Anis Aldehyde 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
118 Hydroxycitronellal 2 Irisone Bis
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 19 Rose For Soap Base
4 Etil Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil ( White/Pink )
7 Methyl Benzoate 1 Iso Eugenol
9 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate - Pfw 36 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellol Coeur FCC 2 Tangerine Oil Dancy Type
13 Mallow .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Cashmeran 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
8 Acetate Benzyle .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Sandacanal 1 Macrolide
15 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil 2 Bergamot Verger Oil - Cami ( I. )
8 Ionone Alpha Refined
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
24 Eugenol
1 Geranium Africa, Bourbon
3 Jasilyn
74 Ionone Alpha Refined
3 Mugone S 207 M
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Nerol Coeur
2 Massoia Ecorce - India

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Floral Aldehydic - Musk # 10e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin 5091 P 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

7 Musk Tops 3 Bonorax
9 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 22 Linalool
4 Heliotropine .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 7
31 Phthalate D’Ethyl 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
46 Musk 50 DEP 3 Neroli - Morocco
5 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 27 Geraniol 60
7 Laurine 8 Orange Blossom Base
9 Brahmanol 5 Geranyl Acetate
48 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 6 Cassis Fragrance
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Beta Damascone 3 Muskylein
4 Anis Aldehyde 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
121 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Irisone Bis
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 19 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil ( White/Pink )
7 Methyl Benzoate 1 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
9 Hedione 36 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellol 850 2 Tangerine Oil - Florida
13 Mallow .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Cashmeran 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
8 Benzyl Acetate Pure .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Sandacanal 1 Hidroxicitronelal
15 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil 1 Citrilys Givco 173
10 Iridales
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Rhodinol Pure
3 Jasmone
75 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Efintaal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Geraniol 980 Pure
2 Pepper Oil Black

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower
Orange flower water, or orange
blossom water, is a clear, perfumed
distillation of fresh bitter-orange
blossoms.
This essential water has traditional-
ly been used in many French and
Mediterranean dessert dishes, such
as the gibassier and pompe à l'huile,
but has more recently found its way
into Western cuisine. For example,
orange flower water is used in
France to flavor madeleines, in
Mexico to flavor little wedding
cakes and Pan de muerto, and in the
United States to make orange blos-
som scones and marshmallows.
Orange flower water is also used as
an ingredient in some cocktails,
such as the Ramos Gin Fizz.
It has been a traditional ingredient
used often in Middle Eastern cook-
ing. In the Arab world, it is fre-
quently added to hard or otherwise
bad-tasting drinking water to mask
the unpleasant flavor. Orange blos-
soms are believed to be used in this
manner because they are seen as the
traditional bridal flower and, there-
fore, symbolize purity (white, small
and delicate).
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
Orange Flower
There are many brands available known as Seville orange, sour
that are made in Europe and the orange, bigarade orange, and mar-
Middle East. There are also several malade orange, refers to a citrus
brands made in the United States. tree (Citrus × aurantium) and its
fruit. Many varieties of bitter
In Greece and Cyprus orange blos- orange are used for their essential
som water is called anthonero oil, which is used in perfume and as
while in Malta it is known as Ilma a flavoring. The Seville orange
Zahar. variety is used in the production of
marmalade.
In Morocco orange blossom water
is called Ilma Zhar, phrase in arabic Bitter orange is also employed in
literally meaning "flower water," in herbal medicine as a stimulant and
contrast to Llma Ward, which is appetite suppressant.[2][3] The
rose blossom water. Orange blos- active ingredient, synephrine, has
som water serves two purposes in been linked to a number of deaths,
Morocco. One usage is a perfume and consumer groups advocate
or freshener, usually given to guests avoiding medicinal use of the fruit.
to wash their hands upon entering
the host house or before drinking Varieties
tea, in a special silver or metal con-
tainer; recognizable in the Citrus aurantium subsp. amara is a
Moroccan tea set. but this old cus- spiny evergreen tree native to
tom is fading away in the present southern Vietnam, but widely culti-
day. The main usage of orange vated. It is used as grafting stock
blossom water however, is in for citrus trees, in marmalade, and
Moroccan cuisine especially as an in liqueur such as triple sec, Grand
ingredient for traditional sweets . Marnier and Curaçao. It is also cul-
tivated for the essential oil
Bitter Orange expressed from the fruit, and for
neroli oil and orange flower water,
The name "bitter orange", also which are distilled from the flow-
301

ers.
Seville orange (or bigarade) is a
widely-known, particularly tart
orange which is now grown
throughout the Mediterranean
region. It has a thick, dimpled skin,
and is prized for making mar-
malade, being higher in pectin than
the sweet orange, and therefore giv-
ing a better set and a higher yield. It
is also used in compotes and for
orange-flavored liqueurs. Once a
year, oranges of this variety are col-
lected from trees in Seville and
shipped to Britain to be used in
marmalade. However, the fruit is
rarely consumed locally in
Andalusia.
Bergamot orange, C. aurantium
subsp. bergamia is cultivated in
Italy for the production of bergamot
oil, a component of many brands of
perfume and tea, especially Earl
Grey tea.
Chinotto, from the myrtle-leaved
orange tree, C. aurantium var. myr-
tifolia, is used for the namesake
Italian soda beverage. This is some-
times considered a separate species.
Daidai, C. aurantium var. daidai, is
used in Chinese medicine and
Japanese New Year celebrations.
The aromatic flowers are added to
tea.
Wild Florida sour orange is found
near small streams in generally
secluded and wooded parts of
Florida and the Bahamas. It was
introduced to the area from Spain.
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
Glen O. Brechbill
In cooking N-methyltyramine, octopamine and
synephrine, substances similar to
The unripe fruit, called narthangai, epinephrine, which act on the ?1
is commonly used in Southern adrenergic receptor to constrict
Indian cuisine, especially in Tamil blood vessels and increase blood
cuisine. It is pickled by cutting it pressure and heart rate.There is no
into spirals and stuffing it with salt. evidence that bitter orange is effec-
The pickle is usually consumed tive in promoting weight loss.
with thayir sadam. The fresh fruit is
also used frequently in pachadis. Following bans on the herbal stim-
The juice from the ripe fruit is also ulant ephedra in the U.S., Canada,
used as a marinade for meat in and elsewhere, bitter orange has
Nicaraguan, Cuban, Dominican been substituted into "ephedra-
and Haitian cooking. The peel can free" herbal weight-loss products
be used in the production of bitters. by dietary supplement manufactur-
In Mexico, it is a main ingredient of ers. Like most dietary supplement
the cochinita pibil. ingredients, bitter orange has not
undergone formal safety testing,
The Belgian Witbier (white beer) is but it is believed to cause the same
made from wheat spiced with the spectrum of adverse events as
peel of the bitter orange. The ephedra. Case reports have linked
Finnish and Swedish use bitter bitter orange supplements to
orange peel in gingerbread (pep- strokes, angina, and ischemic coli-
parkakor), some Christmas bread tis. The U.S. National Center for
and in mämmi. It is also used in the Complementary and Alternative
Nordic mulled wine glögg. In Medicine found that "there is cur-
Greece and Cyprus, the nerántzi or rently little evidence that bitter
kitrómilon, respectively, is one of orange is safer to use than
the most prized fruits used for ephedra." Bitter orange may have
spoon sweets, and the C. aurantium serious drug interactions with drugs
tree (nerantziá or kitromiliá) is a such as statins in a similar way to
popular ornamental tree. In Iran, grapefruit.
the juice is used as fish marinade.
The blossoms are also used to fla- Following an incident in which a
vor tea and jam. healthy young man suffered a
myocardial infarction (heart attack)
In medicine linked to bitter orange, a case study
found that dietary supplement man-
The extract of bitter orange (and ufacturers who replaced ephedra
bitter orange peel) has been market- with its analogs from "bitter
ed as dietary supplement purported orange" had in effect found a loop-
to act as a weight-loss aid and hole in the ephedra ban, substitut-
appetite suppressant. Bitter orange ing a similarly dangerous substance
contains the tyramine metabolites while labeling the products as
302
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower
"ephedra-free".
Other uses
This orange is used as a rootstock
in groves of sweet orange. The fruit
and leaves make lather and can be
used as soap. The hard white or
light yellow wood is used in wood-
working and made into baseball
bats in Cuba.
Neroli Oil
Neroli oil is a plant oil produced
from the blossom of the bitter
orange tree (Citrus aurantium
subsp. amara or Bigaradia). Its
scent is sweet, honeyed and some-
what metallic, whereas bergamot,
being rich in linalool (which is the
main component in lavender), has
more of an aromatic, soft, floralcy.
The blossoms are gathered, usually
by hand, in late April to early May.
The oil is produced by water distil-
lation, as the blossom is too fragile
to endure steam distillation.
History
By the end of the 17th century,
Anne Marie Orsini, duchess of
Bracciano and princess of Nerola,
Italy, introduced the essence of bit-
ter orange tree as a fashionable fra-
grance by using it to perfume her
gloves and her bath. Since then, the
term "neroli" has been used to
describe this essence. Neroli has a
refreshing and distinctive, spicy Top 10 Orange Flowers
aroma with sweet and flowery
notes.
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
Use Soft pinky-orange foxglove that's
an attention-getter in a woodland
It is one of the most widely used border.
floral oils in perfumery. It is a non-
toxic, nonirritant, nonsensitizing, Pilosella aurantiaca
nonphototoxic substance. More
than 12% of all modern quality per- OK, so it's classed as a weed, but
fumes use neroli as their principal the massed effect of tawny orange
ingredient. It blends well with any flowers held aloft on spindly stems
citrus oil, various floral absolutes, from late spring to early autumn
and most of the synthetic compo- makes this hawkweed a winner.
nents available on the market.
Neroli oil is a classic element in Lonicera x tellmanniana
fragrance design and one of the
most commonly used in the indus- An underrated honeysuckle with
try. It is also used in flavors where burnt-orange blooms in early sum-
it has a limited use. Neroli oil is mer.
also one of the key flavoring ingre- Likes Its roots in shade and its
dients of some cola beverage leaves in sun; train up a tree.
recipes.
Buddleja globosa
Neroli oil is reportedly one of the
ingredients in the closely guarded If the lilacs and purples of regular
secret recipe for the Coca-Cola soft buddleja aren't for you, try this
drink. semi-evergreen shrub with striking
orange pompom flowers. It's still a
As an essential oil used in aro- butterfly magnet that's in bloom in
matherapy and massage, neroli is early summer.
considered to have a soothing effect
on the nervous system. Achillea 'Terracotta' and A.
Traditionally, neroli oil was used 'Walther Funcke'
not only to relieve tension and anx-
iety, but also to increase circulation. Yarrow's newly fashionable but it's
A solution is made by adding three always been a banker for a border.
or four drops of the essential oil to These two will bloom until
one cup of either sweet almond oil September – leave the flower heads
or wheat germ oil. If the solution is standing in the winter for that
to be used on children or pregnant "brown but beautiful" look.
women, only half the quantity of
essential oil should be used. Echinacea 'Tiki Torch'
These deep orange daisy-like
blooms will be the star of a cutting
Digitalis purpurea 'Suttons Apricot' border.
303
 Glen O. Brechbill

Hemerocallis fulva 'Flore Pleno' orange and red. Hardy in USDA Rough Heliopsis
zones 9 through 11; it grows as an
Long-flowering double daylily that annual or perennial, depending on Also called false sunflower
looks great in drifts. The blooms the climate of the area. The 4-inch- (Heliopsis helianthoides), rough
are edible, too. wide blooms of orange gerbera heliopsis is a perennial belonging to
resemble true sunflowers. Reaching the Aster family. Although most
Crocosmia × crocosmiiflora 'Lady heights of between 12 to 15 inches, varieties produce yellow daisy-like
Hamilton' gerbera prefer full sun to partial blooms that measure 2 ½ to 3 inch-
shade and well-drained soil. es in width, varieties such as
An easy-care hot border stalwart. 'Incomparabilis' produce orange
Treasure Flower blooms that resemble true sunflow-
Verbascum 'Clementine' ers. It thrives in USDA Hardiness
Also called gazania, treasure Zones 3 through 9 and prefers well-
Stately spires of blooms in the per- flower is an annual that produces drained soil in full sun to partial
fect shade of orange with a fuzzy sunflower-like blooms in shades of shade. Rough heliopsis blooms
purple centre. cream, orange, yellow, pink and from mid-summer through early
bronze. These flowers grow fall.
Kniphofia 'Bees' Sunset' between 8 to 10 inches high and
produce greenish-blue foliage. The Cape Daisy
A favourite with bees that throws variety 'Aztec Queen' and 'Golden
up torches of flowers from May to Margarita' resemble orange sun- A genus belonging to the sun-
July. flowers and bloom from early sum- flower family, cape daisy
mer till end summer or early fall. (Venidium fastuosum), also called
Look alike Orange Flowers Treasure flower thrives in USDA monarch of the veldt or prince
Hardiness Zones 8 through 11 and daisy, produces semi-double, 4-
Native to the Americas, sunflowers tolerates a variety of soils provided inch-wide blooms in a variety of
(Helianthus annuss L.) are cheerful it receives full sun. colors including white and orange.
annuals that feature a large flower The attractive petals surround a
head in shades of orange, yellow Mexican Sunflower shiny, deep purple/black center.
and bronze, surrounding a rounded Delicate, soft hairs cover the sil-
center. Several types of flowers are Mexican sunflower (Tithonia very-green, lobed leaves, giving the
mistaken for the orange sunflower rotundiflora) is a warm-season foliage a silky appearance.
because of the similarities in form, annual belonging to the Growing 2 feet tall, the long-lasting
arrangement of petals and petal col- Aster/Daisy family. Growing up to blooms decorate the spot from sum-
ors. 6 feet high, the 2- to 3-inch-wide mer through fall, and do well when
flowers appear in a variety of colors placed in a container or vase. Cape
African Daisy including orange and yellow. The daisies thrive in USDA Hardiness
heat-and drought-tolerant plant Zones 10b through 11 and prefer
An ornamental plant belonging thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 full sunlight.
to the Sunflower family, African through 10 and prefers full sun to
daisy, also called gerber or gerbera partial shade. Neroli Oil
daisy (Gerbera jamesonii), comes
in a variety of colors including The bitter orange tree yields both
shades of white, pink, yellow, neroli and petitgrain essential oils.

304

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower
In addition to these, a third essence
known as bitter orange oil is
expressed from the peel of the near-
ly ripe fruit. Bitter orange oil
resembles bergamot and lime in
aroma. It is most often used in per-
fumery and flavoring.
Neroli essential oil, which is very
expensive, is distilled from the
freshly picked flowers. The trees
bloom heavily in May. Under opti-
mum growing conditions a large
tree can produce up to 60 pounds of
fresh flowers. Timing is crucial; the
flowers quickly lose their oil when
plucked from the tree. Excessive
handling and bruising greatly
diminishes the quality and quantity
of this precious botanical oil.
A by-product of neroli distillation
is the condensed water from the
still. After the essential oil is drawn
off, this substance, known as
orange flower water, is bottled and
sold as a fragrant cosmetic sub-
stance. Orange flower water is usu-
ally available in the form of skin
toning facial mists. Often it is an
ingredient in creams and lotions,
lending astringency as well as a
fine aroma. Orange flower water
contains many unstable con-
stituents from the delicate flowers.
It is prone to oxidation and rancidi-
ty unless immediately bottled and
sealed in sterile containers. Much
orange flower water sold today
contains large amounts of alcohol
or other chemical preservatives.
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Neroli ( Orange flower )
Citrus aurantium ssp. aurantium
(Rutaceae) Bitter orange, Seville
orange
The flowers of various Citrus
species are the source of the famous
neroli oils used in fine perfumery,
particularly in Colognes. One
example is the flowers of the bitter
orange, mainly cultured in North
Africa. Neroli oil is obtained by
careful steam distillation of the
freshly picked flowers in about 0.1
% yield. An even more valuable
material is the so-called orange
flower absolute, obtained by
extraction (see boronia for details
on absolutes).
In both products, linalool is the
main volatile constituent. Nerolidol
and farnesol are characteristic
ingredients. Moreover, a number of
N-containing constituents are
odour-determining, e.g. methyl
anthranilate, indole, phenylacetoni-
trile and 1-nitro-2-phenylethane.
Etymology: It. neroli, from the
French-born Anna Maria de la
Trémoille (1670-1722), princess of
Nerola, a village near Rome. She
loved the fragrance of the orange
flowers, and was the first person to
have them distilled. The tertiary
sesquiterpene alcohol 3,7,11-
trimethyl-1,6,10-dodecatriene-3-ol
was first identified in neroli oil,
whence the name nerolidol.
Somewhat later, the isomeric alco-
hol 3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dode-
catriene-1-ol was also identified. It
305
was correspondingly named far-
nesol, from Villa Farnese, another
village near Rome. Eau de
Colognes have been created since
the end of the 17'th century. The
classical ingredients were neroli
oil, bergamot oil, orange oil, laven-
der oil and rosemary oil. Colognes
are still going strong, a modern
example is
Baldessarini ( Hugo Boss 2002 ).
Orange Blossom/ Neroli
Citrus aurantium L.
Family: Rutaceae
Common Names: Orange Blossom
Citrus vulgaris, Citrus bigaradia~
Orange flower, Neroli bigarade~
Orange, common name for citrus
fruit of several trees. Orange trees
are evergreens, with flowers that
are white and fragrant. Three essen-
tial oils are obtained from oranges:
~oil of orange,~ obtained from the
rind of the fruit and used principal-
ly as a flavoring agent; ~oil of peti-
grain,~ obtained from the leaves
and twigs and used in perfumery;
and ~oil of neroli,~ obtained from
the blossoms and used in flavorings
and perfumes.
Neroli was discovered in the late
17th century. It is said to be named
after a princess of Neroli or Nerola,
Italy whose name was Anne-Marie.
It was named after the city Neroli,
she was princess there. She used it
as her personal perfume. Its fra-
grance relaxes and relieves anxiety,
thus traditionally, orange blossoms
 Glen O. Brechbill

were used in weddings bouquets

and to calm nerves before the bridal
couple retired to bed.

It has aphrodisiac properties and in

skin care, it stimulates the growth
of new cells and helps clear oily
skin. Oil of neroli is obtained from
the flowers of the ~Bitter orange~
or ~Seville orange~ Known as a
~floral' oil~ it is a pale yellow
colour that darkens as it gets older.
It has a light and sweet floral scent
to it. Tea made from the dried flow-
ers is used as a stimulant and as a
blood cleaner in Europe. Orange
flower water is a popular cosmetic
article. ~Zhishi~ a Chinese tradi-
tional name for Citrus aurantium,
has been a folk medicine for indi-
gestion. Orange brings peace and
happiness to the mind and the body.

During the romantic Victorian era,

brides used to carry fresh bouquets
of white orange blossoms on their
wedding day. These bouquets were
so much in demand that they were
transported nationwide from
Florida for this purpose. Fresh gar-
lands were made into little circlets,
and attached to bridal veils. A sim-
ple perfumed orange blossom gar-
land was often used to adorn a
bride's hair if she chose not to wear
a veil, making a tiara.

State Flower of Florida

The orange blossom was designat-

ed as Florida's official state flower
on May 5, 1909.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower Fragrance Chemicals

BOOK # 1 ( A - G ) Albert Vieille SA - France Amen Organics - India

A & E Connock Ltd. - U.K. Neroli Oil - Morocco, Tunisia Neroli Oil

Neroli Petitgrain Bitter Orange Oil - Italy Orange Oil Bitter

Orange ( Bitter ) ABSOLUTES Petitgrain

Petitgrain Orange Flower Abs. - Egypt American Society of Perfumers

Orange Tree Abs. - Tunisia
A.N.E.C. - France BITTER ORANGE NOTE
Alfa Chem - USA
Neroli Neroli
Bitter Orange Oil C.P.
Petitgrain Bitter Orange Oil 5 - Fold Orange Flower Abs.

Adrian Industries SAS - France Neroli Moroccan Anupam Industries - India

Neroli Tunisian
Neroli Neroli NC
Orange Oil Bitter C.P. Neroli Super NC
Orange Bitter Orange Oil Bitter 5 - Fold
Petitgrain Abs.
Petitgrain Orange Flower Abs.
Aromatic Collection - France
ORGANIC ESSENTIAL OILS & AROMATIC CHEMICALS
EXTRACTS Bitter Orange Oil
Nerolin Bromelia
Orange Bitter Oil Nerolin Yara Yara Neroli Oil
Citrus Aurantium
Yara Yara FLORAL WATERS

Orange - Flower Water

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Aromatic Intenational LLC - USA Baller S.r.l. - Italy Petitgrain Terpenless

Orange Flower Petitgrain Bigarade ABSOLUTES

Aromatics Adl - France Bansal Aroma - India Orange Flower Absolute

Neroli Egypte Neroli Oil Bordas Destilaciones SA - Spain

Neroli Maroc
NeroliTunisie Petitgrain Oil Neroli Bigarade Oil
Neroli Blossom Water
Artiste Flavor / Essence - USA HERBAL EXTRACTS
Petitgrain Bigarade Oil
Neroli Oil Petitgrain Oil
BOTANICALS
Petitgrain Oil BAROSYL S.A. - FRANCE
Bitter Orange Peel, Ribbons
Augustus Oils Ltd. - U.K. Neroli Comores Island Bitter Orange Peel, Quarters
Citrus Aurantium
Neroli Augaflor 17 Neroli Egyptian Brighten Colorchem B.V. - Neth.
Citrus Aurantium
Orange Flower Augaflor 53 Neroli Morocco Neroli Oil
Citrus Aurantium
ESSENTIAL OILS Neroli Tunisian AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Citrus Aurantium
Neroli Oils Nerolin
Bell Flavors & Fragrances - USA Neroline Yara Yara
Eau de Brut Oranger Abs.
Fleurs d’Oranger Abs. artess Yara Yara
Orange Flower Abs.
Berje Inc. - USA Buckton Page Ltd. - U.K.
Australian Botanical Ltd. - Aust.
Orange Oil Bitter W.I. Neroli Oil
Neroli Bigarade Orange Oil Bitter Brazil
Petitgrain Oil
Orange Bitter Biolandes Parfumerie - France
CONCRETES
Axxence SARL - France FLOWERS OR FLOWERING HEADS
Orange Flower Guinea
Neroli Marocco Orange Flower Orange Flower Spain

B.S. Industries - India NATURAL PRODUCTS ABSOLUTE

Niroli Oil Neroli Oil Orange Flower Water Abs.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Cami de Fontainilles - Spain China Perfumer - China Creative Fragrances Ltd. - USA

OTHER ORIGIN Charabot SA Neroli Bigarade Oil - Tunisia

Petitgrain Bigarade Oil Neroli Oil Petitgrain Oil - France

Neroli Oil Morocco
Orange Flower Water Abs. Neroli Oil Tunis DMH Ingredients - USA

Capua s.r.l. - Italy ABSOLUTES Neroli

THE PETITGRAINS Orange Flower Abs. - Morocco Orange Bitter, W.I.

Orange Flower Abs. - Spain
Petitgrain Bigarade Orange Flower Abs. - Tunisia De Monchy Aromatics - U.K.
Orange Flower Water Abs. - Spain
Carrubba Inc. - USA Orange Bitter Dominican
Givaudan SA
BOTANICAL EXTRACTS Destilerias Munoz Galvez - Spain
Oranger Crystals
Bitter Orange Oil Orange Expression Bitter
Chinessence Ltd. - China
Orange Flower Petitgrain
Nerolin Bromelia
Castrading - Korea Nerolin Bromelia Crystals FD Copeland & Sons Ltd.

Neroli, France Citral Oleos Essenciais - Brazil Orange Oil Bitter - African,
Neroli, Morocco Sicilian, South American,
Neroli Aurantium Oil Spanish, West Indian
Petitgrain, Bigarade
OLEOS ESSENCIAS - NATURALS Dulcos Trading - France
Champon Vanilla, Inc. - USA
Neroli Aurantium Oil A0900 Neroli Italie
Petitgrain Oil Neroli Marocco
Citroflor di G. - Italy Neroli Tunisia
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Bitter Orange Oil Petitgrian Bigaradier
Nerolin Bromelia
Nerolin Yara Yara Orangeflor Deco Dullberg Konzentra - Germany
Orangeflor Sanguim Deco
China Aroma Chemical - China Neroli Oil
Petitgrain Bigarade
Petitgrain Oil Orange Oil Bitter
Petitgrain - Dai Dai Oil Clos D’Aguzon - France
Petit Grain Oil
Neroli Abs. Neroli Oil

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Earth Oil Plantations Ltd. - U.K.
Neroli Oil
Eramex Aromatics - Germany
Bitter Orange Oils
Neroli Oil
Esencias y Materials - Mexico
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Neroli
Nerolina Yara Yara
Essencia, Aetherische - Switz.
Neroli Bigarade Ph. Eur.4
Citrus Amara
MATIERES PREMIERES AROMATIQUES Orange Oil Bitter - Africa,
Neroline Bromelia
Euma - Argentina
Nerolin Bromelia
Orange Bitter Oil
Naturales Productos
Neroli 1301/M
Nerolin Bromelia
Nerolin Yara Yara
Exaflor - France
Neroli
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Glen O. Brechbill
HUILES ESSENTIALES
Italie
Neroli
Petitgrain
Marocco
Neroli
Tunisie
Eau de fleur d’oranger
Orange - Egypte Abs.
FD Copelad & Sons Ltd. - UK
Neroli Oil
Sicilian, South American,
Sanish, West Indian
Farotti Essences srl - Italy
Bitter Orange Sicily Essence
Neroli Egypt Essence
Fayyum Gharbya Aromat. - Egypt
Bitter Orange Flower Abs.
Citrus Aurantium L.
Fine Chemical Trading Ltd. - U.K.
Orange Bitter
Fiveash Data Management - USA
Neroli Egypt, Morocco, Tunisia
310
Orange Oil Bitter - D.R.
Petitgrain Paraguay
Flavodor - The Netherlands
Neroli Oil
Orange Oils, Bitter
Petitgrain Oil Bigarade
Fleurchem, Inc. - USA
Neroli, Morocco
Neroli, Tunisia
Orange, Bitter C.P.
Orange, Bitter Desensitized
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Nerolin Bromelia
Nerolin Yara Yara
Fleurin, Inc. - USA
Neroli Oil
Orange Flower Abs.
Florachem Corporation - USA
Neroli Bigarad
Petitgrain Bigarade
AROMA CHEMICALS
Nerolin Bromelia Crystals
Nerolin Yara Yara Crystals
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower
Frey - Lau GmbH - Germany Neroline Yara Yara
Orange Oil ( Bitter ) The Good Scents Co. - USA
Oange Flower Oil
Neroli Bigarade Oil France
Petitgrain Oil
Orange Peel Oil Bitter Brazil
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Orange Peel Oil Bitter China
Orange Peel Oil Bitter
Nerolin Bromelia Terpeneless
Fritzsche SAICA - Argentina Petitgrain Bigarade Oil
Petitgrain Oil
Orange Bitter Oil
ABSOLUTE LISTING
Furest Day Lawson - U.K.
Orange Flower Morocco Absolute
Nerolin Bromelia Orange Flower Water Absolute
Yara Yara Petitgrain France Absolute
Givaudan Fragrance Corp. - Switz. FLORAL
Aurantiol Pure Neroli
Neroli # 1
Oranger Crystals Neroli Bigarade Oil France
Verdantiol ( Lilavert ) Gorlin & Company - USA
Quest Intl. ( Givaudan ) - Switz. Neroli, France
Neroli, Tunisia
Neroli AB 78
Orange, Bitter, W.I.
Global Essence Ltd. - U.K.
Graham Chemical Corp. - USA
Neroli Oil
Neroli Petals Oil Bitter Orange Oil C.P.
Neroli Phase Oil
Neroli Oil
Petitgrain Oil Bigarade
Orange Oil Bitter Cold Pressed
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Orange Oil Bitter Five-Fold
Neroline Bromelia
311
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AROMA CHEMICALS
Nerolin Bromelia
HC Biochem - China
Neroli Oil
H. Reynaud & Fils - France
Neroli Veritable Maroc
Neroli Oil
Orange Amere Bresil
Bitter Orange Oil
Petitgrain Bergamotier
Petitgrain Bigarade Oil
Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd., - U.K.
Neroli Oil
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Nerolin Bromelia
BOOK # II ( I - Z )
IPRA Fragrances - France
Neroli Bigarade Marocco
Neroli Bigarade Tunisia
Oranger Absolue
Oranger Maroc Concrete
Oranger Tunisie Concrete
IFF - USA
Orange Flower Ether

JC Buck Ltd. - U.K.
Orange Bitter Brazil
Orange Bigger Ivory Coast
Orange Bitter Spanish
ESSENTIAL OILS
Neroli Egypt
Neroli Morocco
Neroli Tunisia
Oranger Egyptian Abs.
J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda. - Brazil
Niaouli
Kato Aromataic S.A.E. - Egypt
Neroli Oil - Citrus Aurantium L.
Katyani Exports - India
Neroli Oil
Orange Oil Bitter
Petit Grain Oil
Kruetz Helmut - Portugal
Neroli Oil - Tunisia
Laboratoire Monique Remy - France Neroli Bigarade Tunisia
Orange Flower Abs.
Orange Leaf Water Abs.
Lluche Essence - Spain
Neroli Bigarade Tunisie Oil
Orange Flower Abs.
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Glen O. Brechbill
SYNTHETIC AROMA CHEMICALS Orange Oil Bitter 5 - Fold
Orange Oil Bitter C.P.
Aurantiol
Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless
Methyl Anthranilate
Natural Sourcing, LLC - USA
M.X.D. Enterprise System - Korea
Neroli, Spain
Orange Flower Water Abs. Extra
Oliganic - USA
MelChem Distribution - USA
Orange Bitter - Brazil
Methyl Anthranilate Nat.
PFW Aroma Chemicals - The Neth.
Moelhausen S.p.A. - Italy
Orinox
Neroli Oil
Paul Kaders GmbH - Germany
Orange Bitter Africa
Orange Bitter Oil Neroli Oil Bigarade
Orange Bitter Oil South America
Orange Oil, Bitter
Moraflor Produits Aromat. - France
Petitgrain Oil Bigardier
Neroli - Egypt
Payan Bertrand SA - France
Orange Bitter - Cote Ivoire
Neroli Morocco Oil
Naradev - Hong Kong Neroli Tunisia Oil
Neroli Bigarade Extra Petitgrain Bigarade Oil
Neroli Bigarade Morocco
Neroli Bigarade Selecta ABSOLUTES
Neroli Bigarade Spanish
Orange Flower Abs.
Oranger Flower Water Abs.
Petitgrain Bigarade Selecta
Petitgrain Bigarade Tunisia Penta Manufacturing - USA
Petitgrain over Flowers
Neroli Bigarade Oil
Nardev - Israel
Orange Oil, Bitter
Bitter Orange Oil 5 - Fold
Bitter Orange Oil C.P.
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AROMATIC CHEMICALS Phoenix Aromas & Oils - USA Puressence Wuersten Inc. - Switz.

Methyl Anthranilate Neroli Oil Neroli Oil

Perfume & Flavor Manuf. - Aust.
Neroli Bigarade Oil
Neroli Bigarade Oil - Tunisia
Orange Peel Oil Bitter
Orange Peel Oil Bitter - Brazil
Orange Peel Oil Bitter - China
Petitgrain Bigarade Oil
Petitgrain Bigarade Oil
( Fleurs D’Oranger )
Peter Jarvis Cosmetics - U.K.
Floral Water Neroli
Floral Water Orange
HERBAL EXTRACTS
Moroccan, Tunisian
Orange Oil Bitter
Polarome International - USA
Petitgrain Oil Bigarade
Bitter Orange Oil 5 - Fold Petitgrain Oil
Bitter Orange Oil Cold Pressed
CITRUS OILS
Neroli Oil Moroccan
Neroli Oil Tunisian Orange Oil Bitter - Italy, Spain,
West Indies
Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless
Orange Flower Concrete
ABSOLUTE
Quality Analysis Ltd. - U.K.
Orange Flower Abs.
Neroli Oil - Tunisia
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Orange Oil Bitter - West Indies
Nerolin Bromelia
Nerolin Yara Yara Rai Ingredients - Brazil

Neroli EG Premier Chemical Corp. - India Petitgrain Paraguay OE

Neroli EO
Neroli Oil Givaudan - Switz.
Orange Blossom EG
Orange Blossom EO Orange Oil Bitter Methyl Anthranilate Extra

Petit Marie - Brazil AROMATIC CHEMICALS Oranger Crystals

Orange Bitter Oil Oranger Crystals Raj Aromatics Corp. - India

AROMATIC CHEMICALS Yara Yara Neroli Oil

Aurantiol ( Orangol ) Prima Fleur - USA Petit Grain STD

Nerolin Bromelia
Metil Antranilato Metila
Neroli - Citrus Aurantium
Petitgrain Bigarade
Citrus Aurantium
Petitgrain Oil Paraguay
Robertet SA - France
Neroli Oil

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Rosetta Enterprises, LLC - USA Sarcom Inc. - USA Silvestris & Szilas Ltd. - Hungary

Neroli Bigarade Petitgrain 48 % Paraguay Neroli Oil - ( Citrus Sinensis )

Orange Bitter West Indian Nerolin Bromelia China Some Extracts - India
Neroline Yara Yara China
Petitgrain SA FCC Neroli Oil Perf - Italy
Petitgrain SA FCC Science Lab - USA
Sovimpex - France
SAT Group - India Neroli Oil
Neroli - Egypt
Neroli Oil Orange Oil Bitter C.P. FCC Neroli - Maroc
Neroli - Tunisie
Petitgrain Oil Seema International - India
AROMATIQUES DE SYNTHESE
SIPA A. Ch. Berthier - France Petitgrain Oil
Neroline Yara - Yara
Liliavert ( Verdantiol ) - Givaudan Sensient Essential Oils - Germany Neroline Bromelia

SRS Aromatics Ltd. - U.K. Bitter Orange Oil - Sicily Spectrum Chemicals - USA

Neroli Oil Tunisian Neroli Oil - Morocco, Tunesia Neroli Oil

Petitgrain Oil Paraguay Trepe Shanghai M & U Inter. - China Sunrose Aromataics - USA

ABSOLUTES Neroline Bromelia Neroli

Neroline Yaa Yara Neroli - 10 % in Jojoba
Eau De Brout D’Oranger Abs.
Eau De Fleur D’Oranger Abs. Shreeji Aroma - India Orange, Bitter Brazil

Oranger Abs. Tunisia A Neroli Petitgrain Oil

Oranger Abs. Tunisia 2868
Petitgrain ABSOLUTE
NATURAL EXTRACTS
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Orange Blossom Abs.
Orange Flowers
Nerolin Bromelia RARE & EXOTIC
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Sigma Aldrich - USA Neroli
Nerolin Bromelia Neroli - 10 % Jojoba
Nerolin Yara Yara Nreolin Bromelia
Nerolin Yara Yara > 99 % Orange Blossom Absolute

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Synaco Group - Belgium Spain Africa

Neroli Oil Orange Flower Abs. Cote D’Ivoire

Petitgrain Oil Paraguay USSR Bitter Orange

Takasago International - Japan Petitgrian Oil Egypt

Florantone T Th. Gyer GmbH - Germany Petitgrain

Taytonn te Ltd. - Singapore Methyl Anthranilate Tanzania

Petitgrain Nerolin Yara Yara Kristals Petitgrain

Thailand Institute - Thailand Treatt USA Inc. - USA Tunisia

ESSENTIAL OILS BY COUNTRY Neroli Oil Neroli

Brazil Orange Oil Biter Uganda

Sicilian/West Indian
Bitter Orange Oil Bitter Orange
TREATT ESSENTIAL OIL WORLD MAP
Petitgrain Oil Caribbean
Europe
France Dominican Republic
France
Orange Flower Abs. Bitter Orange
Petitgrain
Italy Haiti
Italy
Orange Flower Abs. Bitter Orange
Bitter Orange
Morocco Central America
Petitgrain
Neroli Oil Mexico
Spain
Orange Flower Abs. Petitgrain
Neroli
Seychelles South America
Petitgrain
Neroli Oil Argentina

Petitgrain

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Uhe Company, Inc. - USA AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Petitgrain Min. 48 % Methyl Anthranilate

Ungerer & Company - USA Wambesco GmbH - Denmark

Neroli Bigarade Neroli Bigarade Oil

Orange Bitter West Indian Petitgrain Oil

Ventos, Ernesto S.A. - Spain AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Orange Oil, Bitter Nerolin Bromelia Crystals

AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Aurantia

Nerolin Bromelia
Nerolin Yara Yara

Venus Enterprise Ltd.

Neroli Oil

Orange Bitter Oil

Petitgrain Oil

AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Nerolin Bromelia
Nerolin Yara Yara

W & W Australia Ltd. - Australia

Methyl Anthranilate

Walsh, John D. Company - USA

Orange Flower Abs.

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Orange Flower Notes

Auralva Neroli orange, muguet, grape odored schiff's base.

Aurantesin Sweet floral odor reminiscent of orange blossom.

Aurantiol Very sweet heavy floral orange blossom to linden flowers.

Aurantiol Pure Floral Extensively used in a large variety of floral notes as orange-blossom,
linden-blossom and tuberose. Acts an excellent fixative as well as
exalting the top notes.

Bitter Orange NPT Odor similar to the West Indies bitter orange oil free of phtototoxicity.

Bitter Orange Oil Cold Pressed A citrusy orange type odor.

Bitter Orange Oil 5 Fold Slightly bitter but yet fruity citrusy orange odor.

Bitter Orange Oliffac 301 Economical replacement for West Indies bitter orange oil dry citrus.

Brouts Abs. Eau D ' Oranger Strong and tenacious odor, musty dry faintly floral.

Brouts ( Orange Flower ) Abs. Intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm but also delicate and fresh.

Di Methyl Anthranilate Heavy orange blossom mandarin peel odor.

Di Phenyl Menthane Harsh geranium leaf, orange blossom type odor in dilution.

Feuilles D ' Oranger Abs. Reconstituted feuilles d ' oranger.

Feuilles E ' Oranger Abs. Eau Floral odor of feuilles d ' oranger.

Florantone T An orange blossom note, which does not discolor like methyl anthranilate.

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Lyrame Super Schiff Base with a very sweet orange blossom profile.

Methyl Anthranilate Musty, fruity and dry floral odor reminiscent of concord grapes.

Methyl Anthranilate Extra Used in many types of floral blends such as neroli and orange
blossom, as well as in exotic compositions, gardenia tuberose
and jasmine. Imparts warmth, volume and sweetness and is
used in all types of perfumery.

Neroli Also known as bigarade or sour orange. Features a spicy sweetness

and is usually found as a top note in many well known perfumes.

Neroli AB78 Cost effective long lasting substitute for natural material.

Neroli Augaflor 17 A very strong diffusive floral note of Neroli with dry green fresh.

Neroli Bigarade Moroccan Sweet spicy orange blossom obtained from sour orange.

Neroli Essence Characteristic.

Neroli Moroccan A delightfully rich orange blossom delicate warm floral odor with
soothing effects. Blends well with many different fragrance
materials and in many accords.

Neroli Tunesian Taken from the bitter orange tree, Citrus Bigaradia Risso, native to Tunisia in
North Africa. The fragrance has a distinct spicy fruity bitter odor with great
originality. Adds freshness to fragrances.

Neroli Oil Sweet spicy orange blossom odor.

Neroli Oliffac An economical natural heavy floral neroli effect.

Neroli 144 SA Reconstruction of neroli bigarade very diffusive and long lasting.

Nerolin Bromelia Crystals Soft floral.

Orange Flower Absolute Has a very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate
and fresh, long lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh
bitter orange blossoms. Although this absolute certainly has notes in
common with jasmin absolute, it has a much more versatile application
pleasant, as a floral fond when used at a comparatively low concentration.
It shows a pleasant, but peculiar and characteristic, sweet herbaceous back
note, not unlike the one found in jasmin.

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Orange Flower Bitter Very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate and fresh,
long lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh bitter orange blossoms.

Orange Flower Concrete A dark, brownish or orange brown paste or soft mass. Its odor is extremely
strong, floral, deep sweet, with a peculiar woody bread crust like backnote
and great tenacity in floral notes. In high dilution, it is strikingly reminiscent
of the odor of fresh orange blossoms.

Orange Flower Abs. Moroccan Warm slightly spicy of the bitter orange type.

Orange Flower Abs. Oliffac Oriental heavy floral gardenia, yet animal influenced complex.

Orange Flower Augaflor 53 Traditionally regarded as a symbolic flower at weddings. This specialty
has a long lasting odour that adds to any composition, even in small
percentages, giving a sweet orange top note.

Orange Flower Ether Citrus grapefruit note also reminiscent of bergamot orange.

Orange Flower Oil Powerful light and refreshing floral.

Oranger Liquid Sweet floral rather harsh orange blossom.

Petitgrainol Intensely woody neroli note.

Schiff Base Aquantraal, sweet muguet herbaceous fresh orange blossom.

Schiff Base Aurantion, powerful orange blossom lasts several months.

Schiff Base Canthoxal and Methyl Anthranilate floral powdery spicy mimosa note.

Schiff Base Decanal and Methyl Anthranilate orange flower odor.

Schiff Base Hydroxycitronellal & Methyl Anthranilate, lily of the valley odor.

Schiff Base Ligantraal, green citrus, orange blossom best in 10 % solution.

Schiff Base Lilial and Methyl Anthranilate, floral, neroli, orange blossom note.

Schiff Base Lyrantion, sweet sophisticated, orange blossom.

Schiff Base Methyl Anthranilate / Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde.

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Schiff Base Methyl Anthranilate / Triplal.

Schiff Base Phenylacetaldehyde and Methyl Anth a beautiful hyacinth flower note.

Schiff Base Seringone, sweet, herbaceous jasmin tuberose, orange blossom.

Schiff Base B - 292 Methyl Anthranilate / Hydroxycitronellal.

Schiff Base B - 799 Methyl Anthranilate / Lilial.

Sweet Pea Resembles orange blossom, hyacinth and a touch of rose.

Syringa Floral odor of muguet and neroli oil.

Verdantiol Offers an intense floral note to delicate flower type creations, such as
neroli, range blossom, narcissus and frangipani.

Yara Yara Crystals Intensely sweet orange blossom, acacia like.

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Orange Flower # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberlyn 7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur

47 Coumane 5 Citronellol Prime
9 Vanillin 2 Undecatriene
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 1 Aurantiol
.1 Civet Artificial 36 Geraniol Prime
29 Traseolide - Quest Intl. ( Givaudan ) .1 The
2 Woodynol II 14 Orange Flower Base
6 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
3 Rosone 9 Laurine
6 Methyl Benzoate 3 Nerol Petals
8 Osyrol .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Alpha Damascone 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
110 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
5 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Rose Oil - Turkey
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Tea Essence
4 alpha - Ionone Extra 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Aquanol 3 Fleuramone
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 6 C - 14 “ Peach “
8 Hidroxcitronelal 3 Iso Eugenol
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Petilyn
16 Petilyn 3 Meranol
4 Phenylethylalcohol .2 Geranyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Carnaline
21 Rose Substitute
3 Ionone Alpha Refined 1,000
4 Meijiff
1 y - Irone
57 Benzylacetate
25 Etilen Brassilato
8 Cassifix
.1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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Orange Flower # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberlyn 7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur

47 Coumane 5 Citronellol Prime
9 Vanillin 2 Undecatriene
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 1 Aurantiol
.1 Civet Artificial 36 Geraniol Prime
29 Traseolide - Quest Intl. ( Givaudan ) .1 The
2 Woodynol I 18 Orange Flower Base
6 Benzyl Alcohol 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
3 Rosone 5 Laurine
6 Methyl Benzoate 3 Nerol Petals
8 Osyrol .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Nerolin Bromelia Crystals 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
110 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
19 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
5 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Rose Oil - Turkey
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Tea Essence
4 alpha - Ionone Extra 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Aquanol 3 Fleuramone
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 6 C - 14 “ Peach “
8 Lioral 3 Iso Eugenol
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Petilyn
16 Petilyn 3 Meranol
4 Phenylethylalcohol .2 Geranyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Carnaline
21 Rose Substitute
3 Iris Beurre Oil 1,000
4 Meijiff
1 Iritone V
57 Benzylacetate
25 Musk T - Takasago
8 Neroli Oil
.1 Alpha Damascone
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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Orange Flower # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Ambronnica 7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur

47 Coumane 5 Citronellol Prime
9 Vanillin 2 Undecatriene
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 1 Aurantiol
.1 Civet Artificial 36 Geraniol Prime
29 Traseolide - Quest Intl. ( Givaudan ) .1 The
2 Chandanone 14 Orange Flower Base
6 Benzyl Alcohol 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
3 Rosone 9 Laurine
6 Methyl Benzoate 3 Orange Oil Bitter
8 Anthea Sandal Coeur .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Rose China Oil 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
115 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
5 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Rose Oil - Turkey
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Tea Essence
4 alpha - Ionone Extra 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Dianthanol
3 Ozomor 3 Fleuramone
19 Iso Eugenol Replacement 8 C - 14 “ Peach “
8 Troenan 3 Methyl Iso Eugenol
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Neroli Oliffac
16 Petilyn 3 Meranol
4 Phenylethylalcohol .2 Geranyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Rose Substitute
3 Ionone Alpha Refined 1,000
4 Meijiff
1 Ionone 100 %
57 Benzyl Acetate Pure - Polarome
25 Etilen Brassilato
8 Vert De Cassis Givco
.1 Petitgrain Oil ( Orange Flower )
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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Orange Flower # 1d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Iso E Super 7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur

47 Coumane 5 Citronellol Nat.
9 Vanillin 2 Methyl Octine Carbonate Sub.
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 1 Aurantiol
.1 Civet Artificial 36 Geraniol Prime
27 Traseolide - Quest Intl. ( Givaudan ) .1 Tea Essence
2 Santalex T Neat 14 Orange Flower Base
6 Benzyl Alcohol Fr 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
3 Rosone 9 Laurine
6 Methyl Benzoate 3 Nerol Petals
8 Osyrol .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Damascenia 185 SA 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
118 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
5 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Rose Oil - Turkey
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Tea Essence
4 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 2 Orange Bitter Dominican Republic
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Aquanol 3 Fleuramone
26 Iso Eugenol Replacement 6 Aldeido ( C - 14 ) Peiche
8 Hidroxcitronelal 3 Iso Eugenol
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Petilyn
16 Petilyn 3 Meranol
4 Pheny Ethyl Alcohol .2 Geranyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
6 Carnaline
21 Rose Substitute
3 Ionone Alpha Refined 1,000
4 Meijiff
1 Iridales
57 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate ( MDJ )
25 Galaxolide 50 DPG
8 Petit Grain Oil
.1 Mugone S 207 M
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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Orange Flower # 1e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Patchouli Amber 7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur

47 Coumane 5 Citronellol 98 %
9 Vanillin 2 Undecatriene
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 1 Aurantiol
.1 Oranger Crystals 36 Geraniol Fine
29 Traseolide - Quest Intl. ( Givaudan ) .1 Tea Essence
2 Sandasweet ( Endanol ) 14 Orange Flower Base
6 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
3 Rosone 9 Laurine
6 Methyl Benzoate 3 Nerol Petals
8 Sandalwood Oliffac .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Alpha Damascone 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
110 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
5 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Rose Oil - Morocco
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Tea Essence
4 alpha - Ionone Extra 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Melomor 3 Fleuramone
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 6 C - 14 “ Peach “
8 Hidroxcitronelal 3 Iso Eugenol
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal
16 Petilyn 3 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
4 Phenylethylalcohol .2 Geranyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1 Anisyl Alcohol
4 Eugenyl Acetate
21 Rose Substitute
3 Ionone Alpha Refined 1,000
4 Lilial
1 y - Irone
57 Hedione
25 Etilen Brassilato
8 Bois Amberene Forte
.1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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Orange Flower # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Methyl Cedryl Ketone Coeur 3 Citronellol Natural

5 Ysamber K 15 Orange Blossom Base
3 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Santalex T Neat 1 Rose Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
7 Vanilline 7 Wardia Substitute
49 Musk 50 DPG 6 Cassis Bourgenons
3 Cedrenyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Galaxolide 50 8 alpha - Ionone Extra
3 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
114 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
2 Damascenia 185 SA .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
51 Benzylacetate 2 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Lioral - Flexitrail
3 Roseone .1 Nonadien
26 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Wardia
1 Iso Jasmone 25 Linalol S 97
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lilial 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Irisone Bis 3 Jasilyn
9 Rose Substitute 2 Neroli Oil
5 Hedione 7 Orange Oil ( Sweet ) - Florida
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Poirinate
80 Ionone Intermediate Base 1,000
2 Hedione
310 Di Propileno Glico
1 Rhodinol natural
38 Geraniol Coeur
8 Laurine Extra
1 Iso Rose
.1 Eau d’Fleur D’Oranger
24 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Geranyl Acetate
32 Linalyl Acetate Pur

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Orange Flower # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 MCKHac 3 Citronellol RH
5 Ambefleur 15 Orange Blossom Base
3 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Santalex T Neat 1 Rose Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 alpha Ionone
7 Vanilline 7 Wardia Substitute
49 Musk 50 DPG 6 Cassis Bourgenons
3 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Galaxolide 50 8 alpha - Ionone Extra
3 Ethyl Vanillin 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
114 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
2 Damascenia 185 SA .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
51 Hedione 2 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Lioral - Flexitrail
3 Rose Crystals .1 Nonadien
26 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Wardia
1 Iso Jasmone 25 Linalol 98 %
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lilial 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Cetonal V 3 Jasilyn
9 Rose Substitute 1 Iso Rose
5 Hedione 7 Orange Oil Orpur - Florida - Giv.
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Anapear
80 Ionone Intermediate Base 1,000
2 Hedione
310 Di Propileno Glico
1 Rhodinol natural
38 Geraniol Coeur
8 Laurine Extra
1 Fleur de Rose
.1 Eau d’Fleur D’Oranger
24 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Eugenol
7 Geranyl Acetate
32 Linalylacetate

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Orange Flower # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 MCK 3 Citronellol Natural

5 Ysamber K 15 Orange Blossom Base
3 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Santalex T Neat 1 Neroli Tunisia
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
7 Vanillin 7 Wardia Substitute
49 Musk 50 DPG 6 Cassis Fragrance
3 Cedrenyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Galaxolide 50 8 alpha - Ionone Extra
3 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
114 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
2 Damascenone .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
51 Hedione 2 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Lioral - Flexitrail
3 Roseon .1 Nonadien
26 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Wardia
1 Iso Jasmone 25 Linalol ex Ho Wood Oil
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lilial 2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Jasilyn
9 Rose Substitute 2 Iso Rose
5 Claigeon 7 Texas Orange Oil ( Sweet & Light )
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Poirinate
80 Ionone Intermediate Base 1,000
2 Hedione
310 Di Propileno Glico
1 Rhodinol natural
38 Geraniol Coeur
8 Lyral
1 Rose Acetate
.1 Neroli Abs. ( Orange Flower )
24 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Geranyl Acetate
32 Linalyl Acetate

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Orange Flower # 2d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Methyl Cedryl Ketone Coeur 3 Citronellol Natural

5 Ysamber K 15 Orange Blossom Base
3 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Santalex T Neat 1 Rose Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
7 Vanilline 7 Wardia Substitute
49 Etilen Brassilato 6 Cassifix
3 Cedrenyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Galaxolide 50 8 alpha - Ionone Extra
3 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
114 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 5 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
2 Damascenia 185 SA .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
51 Benzylacetate 2 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Lioral - Flexitrail
3 Roseone .1 Nonadien
26 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Wardia
1 Yara Yara Crystals 25 Linalool
5 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lilial 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Irisone Bis 3 Jasilyn
9 Rose Substitute 2 Iso Rose
15 Benzylacetate Nat. 6 Orange Oil ( Sweet ) - Florida
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Poirinate
80 Ionone Intermediate Base 1,000
2 Methyl Benzoate
300 Di Propileno Glico
1 Rhodinol natural
34 Geraniol Coeur
8 Hidroxicitronelal
1 Orange Oil Bitter
24 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Iso Eugenol Acetate
7 Geranyl Acetate
.1 Eau d’Fleur D’Oranger
32 Linalyl Acetate Pur

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 2e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

15 Sandiff 3 Citronellol Natural

5 Iso E Super 15 Orange Blossom Base
3 Roseone .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Rose Acetate
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
7 Vanilline 7 Wardia Substitute
49 Musk 50 DPG 6 Cassis Bourgenons
3 Cedrenyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Cashmeran - IFF 8 alpha - Ionone Extra
3 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
119 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
2 Damascenia 185 SA .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
51 Super Cepionate 2 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Meijiff
3 Nerolin Bromelia .1 Orange - Floral Water
26 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Petitgrain
1 Cis Jasmone 25 Linalol S 97
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lilial 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Irisone Bis 3 Jasilyn
9 Rose Substitute 2 Iso Rose
5 Hedione 4 Orange Oil ( Sweet ) - Florida
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Poirinate
80 Ionone Intermediate Base 1,000
2 Hedione
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Rhodinol natural
38 Geraniol 60
8 Laurine Extra
1 Geranium Oil - China, Egypt
.1 Eau d’Fleur D’Oranger
24 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Geranyl Acetate FCC
32 Linalyl Acetate Pur

330

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civette Givco 54 5 Citronellol 850

10 Benzyle Propionate 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
48 Coumarin Substitute 3 Traseolide
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
19 Musk Gazalle 4 Iso Raldeine 70
8 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Orange Flower Water
27 Benzylsalicylate 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
6 Vanillin 20 Geraniol Prime
4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Ylang Givco 225
3 Floral 2 Iso Eugenol
15 Hydroxyciol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
5 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanilys - Pfw 1 Pomarose
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Cyclogalbaniff
1 Benzophenone 3 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
2 Iritone V 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Floranton T
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Wardia
28 Eugenol / Clove 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 Iris Beurre Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Farnesyl Acetate
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 35 Linalyl Acetate
62 Iso Raldeine Substitute 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Geranyl Acetate nat.
1 Fleuramone 2 Bourgenal
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Damascenia 185 SA
8 y - Irone .3 Bois Amberene Forte
16 Cyclosia Base - Firmenich
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Orange Bitter Oil - Citrus Aurantium 1,000
.1 Neroli Super NC
28 Musk Ambrette Substiute
24 Linalool

331

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Orpur Ethiopia - Givaudan 2 Citronellol 850

10 Benzyl Propionate 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
48 Coumane 3 Nepalva
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
19 Musk Gazalle 4 Iso Raldeine 85
8 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Orange Flower Water
27 Benzyl Salicylate 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
6 Vanillin 20 Geraniol Prime
4 Musk NC 1 Ylang Ylang II
3 Floral 2 Carnaline
10 Hydrofix L 3 Orange Flower Augustus 15
8 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanillin 1 Florymoss
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Cyclogalbaniff
1 Benzophenone 3 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 2 Stemone
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Floranton T
132 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Wardia
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 y - Irone
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Farnesyl Acetate
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 35 Linalyl Acetate
62 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Geranyl Acetate nat.
1 Alpha Damascone 3 Bourgenal
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Alpha Damascone
8 y - Irone .3 Cassifix
13 Hydroxy Citronellal
310 ( DPG )
2 Citrus Aurantium 1,000
.1 Orange Flower Ether - IFF - USA
28 Musk Ambrette
24 Linalool

332

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Paste - Ethiopia 5 Citronellol 850

10 Hercolyn - D 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
38 Helional 3 Nepalva
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
19 Musk Gazalle 4 Iso Raldeine 70
8 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Orange Flower Water
27 Benzyl Salicylate 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
6 Vanillin 20 Geraniol Prime
4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Ylang Givco 225
3 Floral 2 Petitgrain Bigarade
15 Hydroxyciol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
5 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanilys - Pfw 1 Pomarose
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Cyclogalbaniff
1 Benzophenone 3 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
2 Iritone V 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Floranton T
134 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Honey Rose Givco 211
28 Iso Eugenol Replacement 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 Iris Beurre Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Farnesyl Acetate
4 Heliotropine 35 Linalyl Acetate
62 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 Petitgrain Oil
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Geranyl Acetate nat.
1 Fleuramone 2 Scennal
2 Vanilys - Pfw 1 Damascenia 185 SA
8 Ionone 100 % - IFF .3 Bois Amberene Forte
16 Cyclosia Base ( Lily of the Valley )
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Orange Bitter Oil ( Cold Pressed ) 1,000
.1 Orange Flower Extract
28 Globanone
24 Linalol Ex Ho Wood Oil

333

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 3d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civette Givco 54 5 Citronellol 850

10 Benzyle Propionate 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
48 Coumarin Substitute 3 Traseolide
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
19 Musk Gazalle 4 Ionone Alpha Refined
8 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Orange Flower Water
27 Benzylsalicylate 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 20 Geraniol Prime
4 Musc Clear - India 1 Ylang Ylang Petals ( Comoros )
3 Lilivert 2 Carnaline
15 Hydroxyciol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
5 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanilys - Pfw 1 Pomarose
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Cyclogalbaniff
1 Anisylalcohol 3 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
2 Hysimal 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Floranton T
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Wardia
28 Eugenol ( Carnation ) 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 Iridale’s
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Farnesyl Acetate
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 35 Linalyl Acetate Special
62 Iso Raldeine Substitute 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Geranyl Acetate nat.
1 Fleuramone 2 Bourgenal
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Damascenia 185 SA
8 y - Irone .3 Clove Leaf Oil
16 Troenan
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Neroli, Tunisia 1,000
.1 Fleur de Rose
28 Serenolide
24 Etil Linalol

334

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 3e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Tincture 5 Citronellol Select

10 Benzyle Propionate 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
48 Coumane 3 Traseolide
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
16 Ethylene Brassylate ( Musk T ) 4 Ionone Alpha Refined
8 Sandalore .1 Orange Flower Water
27 Benzylsalicylate 5 Methyl Octyl Ketone
6 Vanillin 20 Geraniol Prime
4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Ylang Givco 225
3 Floral 2 Iso Eugenol
18 Hydroxyciol 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
5 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanilys - Pfw 1 Yara Yara
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Glycoflor
1 Benzophenone 3 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
2 Iritone V 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Floranton T
129 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geraniol 970
28 Eugenol / Clove 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 Iris Beurre Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Farnesyl Acetate
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 35 Linalyl Acetate
62 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Tubereuse 181
8 Phenylethylalcohol 7 Geranyl Acetate Prime
1 Fleuramone 2 Bourgenal
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Iso Rose
8 y - Irone .3 Bois Amberene Forte
12 Lyrame Super
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Petitgrain Oil Bigarade 1,000
.1 Neroli Bigarade Tunisia
28 Galaxolide Artesence
24 Linalol

335

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Kephalis .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate Substitute

38 Coumarin Crystals 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Civet Tincture 1 Petilyn
32 ( DEP ) 9 Orange Blossom Base
37 Traseolide 100 Base 15 Wardia
6 Iso E Super 3 Verdox
7 Vanisal - Flexitrail 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
2 Helioforte 2 Iris Beurre Oil
85 Hydroxycitronellal 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Thyme Oil White 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
8 Lilial .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
15 Cashmeran 1 Methyl Tuberate
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
5 Jasmoneige 10 Bergamot Oil Substitute
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Thesaron
4 Methyl Benzoate 1 Meranol
1 Fleuramone 4 Cassis Fragrance B
122 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Hysimal
3 Citronellol Select 3 Iso Amyl Gerenate
28 Eugenol 3 Isoeugenol
7 Mallow .1 Leaf Alcohol
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Dianthanol
20 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Bois Amberene Forte
86 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 18 Linalyl Acetate
20 Geraniol 970
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Jasmylone 99 1,000
12 Iritone V
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Scennal
5 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique
.7 Poirinate
4 Aubepine

336

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Kephalis .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate Substitute

32 Coumarin Crystals 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Civet Tincture 1 Petilyn
32 ( DEP ) 9 Orange Blossom Base
37 Musk T ( Ethylene Brassylate ) 15 Wardia
6 Iso E Super 3 Verdox
7 Vanisal - Flexitrail 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
2 Helioforte 2 Iris Beurre Oil
89 Hydroxycitronellal 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Thyme Oil White 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
8 Lilial .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
15 Cashmeran 1 Methyl Tuberate
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
5 Jasmoneige 10 Bergamot Oil Substitute
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Bitter Orange Oil C.P.
3 Methyl Benzoate 1 Meranol
1 Anyl Salicylate 4 Cassis Fragrance B
129 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Hysimal
2 Citronellol Select 3 Iso Amyl Gerenate
28 Eugenol 3 Isoeugenol
7 Mallow .1 Orange Flower Abs. - Morocco
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Dianthanol
17 Hedione 1 Bourgenal
86 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 18 Linalyl Acetate
20 Geraniol 970
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Triflaige - A 1,000
12 Iritone V
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Acetato Benzila
5 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique
.7 Poirinate
4 Gardenia Acetal

337

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Kephalis .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate

38 Coumarin Crystals 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Civet Powder # 1a 1 Muguet Alcohol ( Symrise )
32 ( DEP ) 19 Orange Blossom Base
37 Serenolide 5 Wardia
6 Iso E Super 3 Apple Oliffac
7 Vanilys 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
2 Acetate Iso Eugenol 2 alpha - Ionone Extra
85 Hydroxycitronellal 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Thyme Oil White 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
8 Hydroxycitronellol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
15 Cashmeran 1 Tuberose Oliffac
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
5 Jasmoneige 10 Bergamot Oil Substitute
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Thesaron
4 Methyl Benzoate 1 Meranol
1 Fleuramone 4 Cassis Fragrance B
122 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Hysimal
3 Citronellol Select 3 Iso Amyl Gerenate
28 Eugenol 3 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Mallow .1 Cyclal - C
.1 Alcohol C - 09 1 Clove Bud Oil - Madagascar
20 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Bois Amberene Forte
67 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 18 Linalyl Acetate
39 Geraniol 970
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Jasmylone 99 1,000
12 Iritone V
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Scennal
7 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique
.7 Poirinate
2 Anisicaldehydedimethylacetal

338

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 4d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Iso E Super .1 Violiff

38 Coumarin Crystals 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Civet Tincture 1 Petit Grainol Std.
32 ( DEP ) 9 Orange Blossom Base
37 Galaxolide Artessence 15 Wardia
6 Sandiff 3 Verdox
7 Vanillin 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
2 Heliotropine 2 Iris Beurre Oil
85 Hydroxycitronellal 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Thyme Oil White 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
8 Lilial .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
15 Cashmeran 1 Methyl Tuberate
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
5 Dupical 10 Bergamot Oil Substitute
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Thesaron
4 Methyl Benzoate 1 Aurantiol Pure
1 Fleuramone 4 Cassis Fragrance B
122 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Hysimal
3 Citronellol Select 3 Methyl Octyl Ketone
28 Eugenol 3 Isoeugenol
7 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Leaf Alcohol
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Dianthanol
20 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Liveche
86 Ionone Intermediate Base 18 Linalylacetate
20 Geraniol 970
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Iso Jasmone 1,000
12 Iridales
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Scennal
5 Hydroxycitronellal A
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique
.7 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acette
4 Anisic Aldehyde

339

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 4e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Kephalis .1 Undecavertol
38 Coumarin 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Civet Powder # 1b 1 Petilyn
32 ( DEP ) 9 Orange Blossom Base
37 Traseolide 100 Base 15 Wardia
6 Iso E Super 3 Verdox
7 Vanisal - Flexitrail 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
2 Helioforte 2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
85 Hydroxycitronellal 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Thyme Oil White 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
8 Lilial .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
12 Muskylein 1 Methyl Tuberate
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde - alpha .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
5 Jasmoneige 13 Bergamot Oil Substitute
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Thesaron
4 Methyl Benzoate 1 Meranol
1 Fleuramone 4 Cassis Fragrance B
122 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Jasilyn
3 Citronellol Select 5 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
28 Eugenol 3 Isoeugenol
7 Mallow .1 Leaf Alcohol
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Dianthanol
23 Benzyle Acetate 2 Bois Amberene Forte
86 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 18 Linalyl Acetate
20 Geraniol 970
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Jasmylone 99 1,000
12 Hydroxy Citronellal dma
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Jamaica Oil
5 Lioral
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol 98 %
.7 Anapear
4 Aubepine

340

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 Eugenyl Acetate
.1 Civette Givco 77 1 Bulgaflor
4 Heliotropine 3 Kir Base # 9741
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Tuberose Substitute
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
5 Anthea Sandal Coeur 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
9 Vanisal 3 Iridales
.1 Polarose 10 Orange Blossom Base
62 Benzyl Acetate Pure 4 Wardia
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
33 Geraniol Extra pur 1 Para Cresyl Acetate
3 Mallow .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
112 Muguet Base 4 Nerol
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Iris Beurre Oil
25 Geraniol 99 % 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
8 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Terpineol Prime
1 Rosone .1 Florymoss
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 24 Linalyl Acetate
2 Lioral - Flextrail 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
11 Eugenol
6 Di Methyl Octanol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 1,000
1 Oxide De Rosa
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
299 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Vanilla Resinoid
13 Citronellol - L
33 Linalol S 97
5 Lyral
3 Muguet Aldehyde
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Orange, Bitter, W.I.
.2 Alcohol C - 10
6 Cassis Fragrance
.8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Geraniol Butyrate
341

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 Eugenyl Acetate
.1 Civette Givco 77 1 Bulgaflor
4 Heliotropine 3 Kir Base # 9741
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Tuberose Substitute
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG 1 Cetonal V
5 Sandalwood Oil - India 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
9 Vanisal 3 Iridales
.1 Polarose 10 Orange Blossom Base
62 Hedione 4 Wardia
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
33 Geraniol Extra pur 1 Para Cresyl Acetate
3 Mallow .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
112 Muguet Base 4 Nerol
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Iris Beurre Oil
25 Geraniol 99 % 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
8 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Syringa
1 Rosone .1 Florymoss
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 24 Linalyl Acetate
2 Fleuramone 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
11 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
6 Di Methyl Octanol
4 Hidroxicitronelal 1,000
1 Rhodinol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
299 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Vanilla Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol Pure FCC
29 Linalol Ex Ho Wood Oil
5 Lyrame Super
3 Muguet Aldehyde
23 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Orange Flor Deco
.2 Alcohol C - 10
6 Cassis Fragrance
.8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Neroli Bigarade Tunisia
342

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Myraldyl Acetate

8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 Eugenyl Acetate
.1 Civette Givco 77 1 Orange Amere Bresil
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 3 Kir Base # 9741
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Tuberose Substitute
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
5 Anthea Sandal Coeur 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
9 Vanisal 3 Ionone Alpha 60
.1 Rosalva 10 Orange Blossom Base
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 4 Wardia
39 Geraniol Prime 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
3 Mallow 1 Rose Turque
112 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Nerol
25 Geraniol 99 % 5 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Melon Org 2 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Rosone 3 Terpineol Prime
85 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Florymoss
2 Lioral - Flextrail 26 Linalyl Acetate
11 Eugenol / Clove 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
6 Di Methyl Octanol
4 Hidroxicitronelal
62 Benzyl Acetate Pure 1,000
1 Oxide De Rosa
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
293 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Vanilla Resinoid
13 Citronellol - L
33 Linalol S 97
5 Lyral
3 Green Base Augaflor 17
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Orange Flor Deco
.2 Alcohol C - 09
6 Bois Amberene Forte
.8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Neryl Acetate
343

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 5d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Hercolyn - D 3 Myraldyl Acetate

8 Santal Core 2 Eugenyl Acetate
.1 Civet Augaflor 9 1 Orange Amere Bresil
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 3 Kir Base # 9741
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Tuberose Substitute
53 Galaxolide 50 DEP 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
5 Anthea Sandal Coeur 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
9 Vanisal 3 Methyl Ionone
.1 Rosalva 10 Orange Blossom Base
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 4 Wardia
35 Geraniol Prime 3 Orange Peel Oil BitterChina
3 Mallow 1 Rose Turque
116 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Nerol
25 Geraniol 99 % 5 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Fruitaleur 2 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Rose Crystals 3 Terpineol Prime
85 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Neroli Petals Oil
2 Lyrame 26 Linalyl Acetate
11 Eugenol / Clove 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
6 Di Methyl Octanol
4 Hidroxicitronelal
62 Benzyl Acetate Pure 1,000
1 Oxide De Rosa
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
293 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Anisyl Alcohol
13 Citronellol Select
33 Linalo0l Pure
5 Hydofix L
3 Green Base Augaflor 17
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Verdantiol ( Lilavert )
.2 Alcohol C - 09
6 Vert de Cassis Givco
.8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Geraniol 60
344

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 5e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Myraldyl Acetate

8 Sandalwood Oliffac 2 Eugenyl Acetate
.1 Civette Givco 77 1 Orange Amere Bresil
4 Heliotropine 3 Kir Base # 9741
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Tuberose Substitute
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
5 Amyris W.I. ( Sandalwood ) Oil 8 Phenylethylalcohol
9 Vanillin 3 Ionone Alpha 60
.1 Rosalva 13 Orange Blossom Base
18 Benzylsalicylate 4 Wardia
42 Geraniol Prime 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
3 Mallow 1 Rose Turque
112 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
10 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Orange Flower Ether - IFF
25 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil 5 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Melon Org 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Rosone 3 Terpineol Prime
89 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Iris Beurre Essence
2 Lioral - Flextrail 26 Linalyl Acetate
11 Eugenol / Clove 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
6 Di Methyl Octanol
4 Hidroxicitronelal
62 Benzyl Acetate Pure 1,000
1 Oxide De Rosa
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
293 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Vanilla Resinoid
13 Citronellol - L
33 Linalol S 97
5 Petilyn
3 Meijiff
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Orange Flor Deco
.2 Rose Essence Abs. - Bulgaria
6 Cassis Fragrance
.8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Fleuramone
345

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 6a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC

7 Vanillin .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
41 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
39 Ethylene Brassylate 3 Scennal
8 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Ysamber K 5 Bourgenal
23 Hydroxycial 3 Neroli Bigarade Morocco
2 Nerolin Crystals 28 Geraniol 60
3 Muskylein .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
52 Super Cepionate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Iso E Super 34 Linalool Special
112 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
6 Alicate 1 Coriander Oil Russian
2 Heliotropine 4 Geranium 2222
18 Traseolide 2 Cassifix
5 Vanillinethyl 1 Alpha Damascone
14 Hedione 7 Hydroxycitronellal A
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol .2 Rose Essence Abs.
94 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
1 Sandalwood Oil East Indies 1 Jasilyn
3 y - Irone 29 Linalyl Acetate
4 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
5 Gardenia 1110 7 Myraldyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
1 Citronellol from Citronela 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
1 cis-2-Pentenol 3 Hydrofix R

1,000

346

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 6b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Rose ( 752 P99 )

7 Vanillin .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
45 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
39 Ethylene Brassylate 3 Scennal
8 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Ysamber K 5 Troenan
20 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 3 Neroli Bigarade Morocco
2 Nerolin Crystals 28 Geraniol Palmarosa
3 Muskylein .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
52 Super Cepionate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Iso E Super 34 Linalool Special
112 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Coumarin Crystals ( IFRA ) - Giv. 1 Coriander Oil Russian
2 Heliotropine 4 Geranium 2222
14 Macrolide 2 Cassifix
5 Etil Vanillin 1 Persicol SA
16 Hedione 7 Hydroxycitronellal A
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol .2 Rose Essence Abs.
99 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
1 Sandalwood Oil East Indies 1 Jasilyn
3 y - Irone 29 Linalyl Acetate
4 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
3 Gardenia Acetal 7 Myraldyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
1 Citronellol from Citronela 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
1 cis-2-Pentenol 3 Lilivert

1,000

347

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 6c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Neroli 1301/M

7 Vanillin .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
41 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
39 Musk Ambrette Substitute 3 Scennal
8 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Ysamber K 5 Bois Amberene Forte
23 Hydroxycial 3 Neroli Bigarade Morocco
2 Orange Bitter 28 Geraniol 60
3 Muskylein .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
52 Benzylacetate Coeur 1 Cassifix
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Iso E Super 34 Ethyl Linalool
112 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
6 Alicate 1 Coriander Oil Russian
2 Heliotropine 4 Geranium 2222
18 Musk T - Takasago 2 Cassifix
5 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Alpha Damascone
14 Hedione 7 Hydroxycitronellal A
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol .2 Rose Essence Abs.
94 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
1 Sandalwood Oil East Indies 1 Jasilyn
3 Perryfix - Creations Aromatiques 29 Linalyl Acetate
4 Methyl Benzoate 1 Rose Givco 75 - Givaudan
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 7 Myraldyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
1 Citronellol from Citronela 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
1 Iso Jasmone 3 Hydrofix R

1,000

348

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 6d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Geranium Oil - Egyptian

7 Vanillin .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
41 Coumane 17 Orange Blossom Base
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
39 Ethylene Brassylate 3 Scennal
2 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Ysamber K 5 Stemone
23 Hydroxycial 3 Neroli Bigarade Morocco
2 Nerolin Crystals 28 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
3 Muskylein .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
52 Super Cepionate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Iso E Super 34 Linalool Special
112 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
6 Alicate 1 Isoeugenol
2 Heliotropine 4 Geranium over Roses
18 Traseolide 2 Cassifix
5 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Alpha Damascone
14 Hedione 4 Hydroxy Citronellal
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol .2 Rose Essence Abs.
100 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Azalea Oil
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
1 Sandalwood Oil East Indies 1 Jasilyn
3 y - Irone 29 Linalyl Acetate
4 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
5 Gardenia 1110 7 Myraldyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
1 Citronellol from Citronela 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
1 cis-2-Pentenol 3 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal

1,000

349

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 6e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC

7 Vanillin .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
41 Coumane 24 Orange Blossom Base
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
39 Ethylene Brassylate 3 Scennal
8 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Ysamber K 5 Bourgenal
16 Hydroxycial 3 Neroli Bigarade Morocco
2 Nerolin Crystals 28 Geraniol 60
3 Muskylein .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
22 Super Cepionate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Iso E Super 34 Linalool Special
142 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
6 Alicate 1 Coriander Oil Russian
2 Heliotropine 4 Geranium Italy Orpur - Givaudan
18 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 2 Cassifix
5 Vanillinethyl 1 Alpha Damascone
14 Hedione 7 Hydroxycitronellal A
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol .2 Rose Essence Abs.
94 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
1 Sandalwood Oil East Indies 1 Jasilyn
3 alpha - Ionone Extra 29 Linalyl Acetate
4 Methyl Benzoate 5 Roseiff
5 Gardenia 7 Myraldyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
8 Citronellol Select 4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
1 cis-2-Pentenol 3 Orinox - Pfw

1,000

350

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 7a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

4 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Rose Turca Assoluta
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Florantone T
.1 Civet Powder # 1a 32 Geraniol, Perfumery Grade
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 29 Linalool
19 Benzyle Salicylate 7 Orange Blossom Base
17 Sandalwod Oliffac .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
5 Musk Clear 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 1 Iso Jasmone
2 Nerolin ( Yara Yara Crystals ) .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Methyl Octyl Ketone
69 Benzylacetate 2 Nerol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Cassis Fragrance B
7 MDJ .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Thesaron
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orangeflor
125 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
12 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Musk NC 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Petitgrain Begamotier
77 Ionone Intermediate Base 38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rosone
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
2 Iso Eugenol ( Carnation )
319 ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol
6 Osyrol
4 Lyral
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 Apple Oliffac
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
1 Nerol Petals

351

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

4 Musk Clear .1 Rose Turca Assoluta
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Florantone T
.1 Civet Powder # 1a 32 Geraniol, Perfumery Grade
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 29 Linalool
19 Benzyl Salicylate 10 Orange Blossom Base
17 Sandalwod Substitute .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
5 Musk Clear 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 1 Iso Jasmone
2 Nerolin ( Yara Yara Crystals ) .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Methyl Octyl Ketone
69 Benzylacetate 2 Neroli Egypt, Morocco, Tunisia
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Cassis Fragrance B
7 MDJ .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Thesaron
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orangeflor
125 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
12 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Musk NC 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Petitgrain Begamotier
77 Ionone Intermediate Base 38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rosone
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
2 Iso Eugenol ( Carnation )
319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol 80
6 Osyrol
2 Rose Oil, Turkish
15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 Apple Oliffac
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
1 Rhodinol

352

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 7c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

4 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Neroli Abs.
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Florantone T
.1 Civet Powder # 1a 32 Geraniol BJ
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 29 Linalool
19 Benzyle Salicylate 7 Orange Blossom Base
17 Sandalwod Oliffac .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
5 Musk Clear 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Rose Crystals 1 Iso Jasmone
2 Nerolin ( Yara Yara Crystals ) .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Methyl Octyl Ketone
59 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 2 Nerol natural
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Cassis Fragrance B
7 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Myraldene
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orangeflor
135 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
12 Sandec Givco 62 1 Elintaal
5 Musk NC 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Petitgrain Begamotier
77 Ionone Intermediate Base 38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rosone
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
2 Methyl Diantilis
319 ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol Pure
6 Amyris Oil W.I.
4 Folrosia
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 Verdox
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
1 Nerol Petals

353

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 7d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

4 Musk .1 Rose Turca Assoluta
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Florantone T
.1 Civet Powder # 1a 32 Geraniol, Perfumery Grade
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 29 Linalool
19 Benzyle Salicylate 7 Orange Blossom Base
17 Sandalwod Oliffac .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
5 Musk Clear 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
2 Benzyle Propionate Pure .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Methyl Octyl Ketone
69 Benzylacetate 2 Nerol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Cassis Fragrance B
7 Hedione .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 2 Thesaron
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orangeflor
125 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Geranium Rose Egypt
12 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Myraldeine 2 Orange Oil Bitter
77 Ionone Intermediate Base 37 Linalylacetate
1 Rosone
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
2 Iso Eugenol ( Carnation )
317 ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol
6 Osyrol
4 Laurine Extra
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
10 Apple Juice Givco 77
3 Hydroxyciol
1 Di Methyl Octanol
1 Geranyl Acetate

354

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 7e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

10 Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

4 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Rose Turca Assoluta
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Florantone T
.1 Civet Powder # 1a 32 Geraniol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 29 Linalool Special
19 Benzyle Salicylate 7 Orange Blossom Base
16 Sandalwod Oliffac .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
5 Musk Clear 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 1 Iso Jasmone
2 Nerolin ( Yara Yara Crystals ) .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Methyl Octyl Ketone
68 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 2 Neroline Bromelia
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Cassis Fragrance B
7 MDJ .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Thesaron
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orangeflor
125 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
12 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Musk NC 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Petitgrain Begamotier
77 Ionone Intermediate Base 38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rosone
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
2 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
319 Di Propileno Glico
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol
6 Amyris Oil W.I.
4 Lyral
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 Apple Oliffac
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
1 Orange Expression Bitter

355

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 8a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Benzophenone 33 Linalol 99 %
58 Galaxolide 50 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Civet Powder # 1a 3 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 21 Orange Blossom Base
4 Piperonyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Damascenone 4 Laurinal
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 1 Meranol
5 Iris Beurre Oil 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
9 Vanilys 27 Linalyl Acetate
2 Cashmeran .1 Alcohol C - 9
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .3 Tubereuse 181
3 Petitgrain Oil 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 MDJ Super 4 Geranyl Acetate
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Lyrame
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Roseiff
107 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Geraniol 600
6 Citronellol natural 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
3 Di Hydro Coumarex 2 Geranyl Acetate
9 Hydroxycitronellol
36 Geraniol Savon
25 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1,000
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
2 Nerol
.1 Exaltolide
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Iso Raldeine 85
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Orange Flower Abs. - Tunisia
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal

356

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 8b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 18 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Benzophenone 33 Ethyl Linalool
58 Cervolide 2 Lyral
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Civet Powder # 1a 3 Myraldine
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 21 Orange Blossom Base
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Damascenone 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 1 Meranol
5 Ionone Alpha Refined 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Musk Gazalle .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
9 Vanilys 27 Linalyl Acetate
2 Cashmeran .1 Alcohol C - 9
121 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .3 Tubereuse 181
3 Petitgrain Oil 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 Acetate Benzila 4 Geranyl Acetate
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Lyrame
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Roseiff
97 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Geraniol 600
6 Citronellol natural 1 Perryfix - Creations Aromatiques
3 Di Hydro Coumarex 3 Geranyl Acetate Prime
9 Hydroxycitronellol
36 Geraniol Savon
25 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1,000
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
2 Neroli Bigarade Marocco
.1 Exaltolide
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Iso Raldeine 70
5 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Orange Flower Abs. - Tunisia
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Stemone

357

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 8c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Benzophenone 33 Linalol 99 %
58 Galaxolide 50 2 Fruitaleur
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Civet Powder # 1a 3 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 21 Orange Blossom Base
4 Heliotropine .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Damascenone 4 Palmarosa Oil - India
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 1 Meranol
5 Iris Beurre Oil 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
9 Vanilys 27 Linalyl Acetate
2 Musk GX .1 Alcohol C - 9
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .3 Tubereuse 181
3 Petitgrain Oil 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 MDJ Super 4 Geranyl Acetate
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Lyrame
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Iso Rose
107 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Geraniol Ex Plamarosa Oil
6 Citronellol 98 % 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
3 Bitter Orange Oil ( Cold Pressed ) 2 Geranyl Acetate
9 Hydroxycitronellol
36 Geraniol Savon
25 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1,000
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
2 Nerol
.1 Exaltolide
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 alpha - Ionone
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Orange Flower Abs. - Tunisia
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Scennal

358

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 8d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

40 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Benzophenone 33 Linalol 99 %
54 Traseolide 100 Base 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Civet Powder # 1c 3 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 24 Orange Blossom Base
4 Eugenyl Acetato Iso .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Damascenone 4 Laurinal
14 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 1 Meranol
5 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
9 Vanilys 27 Linalyl Acetate
2 Cashmeran .1 Alcohol C - 9
118 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .3 Ionone
3 Petitgrain Oil 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 Hedione 5 Geranyl Acetate
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Lyrame
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Roseiff
107 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Geraniol 600
6 Citronellol natural 1 Neroli Artessence
3 Di Hydro Coumarex 4 Iso Jasmone
9 Hydroxycitronellol
36 Geraniol Fine FCC
25 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1,000
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
2 Palmarosa Oil - Jamaica
.1 Musk Emeressence
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Iritone V
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Orange Flower Abs. - Tunisia
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Fleuramone

359

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 8e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

40 Coumarin Crystals ( Hay Like ) 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1 Benzophenone 35 Linalol 99 %
58 Musk R - 1 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Civet Powder # 1a 3 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 27 Orange Blossom Base
4 Piperonyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Damascenone 4 Laurinal
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 2 Meranol
5 Iris Beurre Oil 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
9 Vanilys 28 Linalyl Acetate
2 Cashmeran .1 Alcohol C - 9
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .3 Tubereuse 181
3 Petitgrain Oil 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate ( MDJ ) 4 Geranyl Acetate
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 7 Lyrame Super
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Geraniol Palmarosa
101 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Geraniol 600
6 Citronellol natural 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
3 Di Hydro Coumarex 2 Iso Rose
9 Hydroxycitronellol
36 Geraniol Savon
25 Carnation Base 1,000
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
2 Nerol Africa
.1 Vanilla Abs. C’Less MD - Quest, G.
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Iso Raldeine 85
1 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
.1 Orange Flower Abs. - Tunisia
.2 Alcohol C - 9
4 Petilyn

360

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 9a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Commercial - Ethiopia 1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil

10 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
49 Galaxolide 50 DEP 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Polarose - Polarome
5 Vanisal 3 Orangeflor
11 Sandec Givco 5 Wardia
23 Benzyl Salicylate 27 Linalool
41 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
6 Iso E Super 3 Top Galbanum
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Amere Bresil
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 1 Tangerine Oil Florida ( C.P. )
61 Benzylacetate 15 Phenylethylalcohol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate
4 Fleuramone 4 Meijiff
7 Osyrol 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
5 Methyl Benzoate .4 Methyl Tuberate
104 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Petitgrain Oil - France
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Palmarosa, India
.1 Alcohol C - 10 5 Iso Eugenol
6 Lilivert 1 Sensient
3 Citronellol 80 9 Linalyl Acetate Extra
1 Sandiff .1 Folione
9 Laurine Extra 1 Florantone T
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Galbanum Absolue
7 Bonorax .1 Geraniol 600
9 alpha - Ionone Extra 1 Florosia
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Bourgenal
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol BRI FCC
2 Bois De Rose Oil - Brazil 1,000
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Caryophelline

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 9b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 1a 1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil

10 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
49 Galaxolide 50 DEP 4 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Polarose - Polarome
5 Vanilline 3 Orangeflor
11 Sandec Givco 5 Wardia
19 Benzyl Salicylate 27 Linalool
41 Coumarin Crystals 14 Orange Blossom Base
2 Iso E Super 3 Top Galbanum
4 Lilivert 1 Orange Amere Bresil
1 Oranger Crystals 1 Tangerinol
61 Acetate Benzyle 15 Phenyl Ethyl ALcohol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate
4 Fleuramone 4 Meijiff
7 Osyrol 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
5 Methyl Benzoate .4 Methyl Tuberate
112 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Petitgrain Oil - France
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Palmarosa, India
.1 Alcohol C - 10 5 Iso Eugenol
6 Hysimal 1 Myraldeine
3 Citronellol 80 9 Linalyl Acetate Extra
1 Acetate Iso Eugenol .1 Folione
9 Laurine Extra 1 Florantone T
75 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Galbanum Absolue
7 Bonorax .1 Geraniol 600
9 alpha - Ionone Extra 1 Mandarinal
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Bourgenal
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol BRI FCC
3 Bois De Rose Oil - Brazil 1,000
3 Lily of the Valley ( Muguet )
5 Caryophelline

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 9c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Commercial - Ethiopia 1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil

10 Benzyl Alcohol 12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
49 Galaxolide 50 DEP 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Polarose - Polarome
5 Vanisal 3 Orangeflor
11 Sandec Givco 5 Wardia
23 Benzyl Salicylate 27 Linalool
41 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
6 Iso E Super 3 Galbanum Givco 17
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Amere Bresil
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 1 Tangerine Oil Florida ( C.P. )
61 Benzylacetate 10 Phenylethylalcohol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate
4 Fleuramone 4 Lioral
7 Osyrol 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
5 Methyl Benzoate .4 Methyl Tuberate
104 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Petitgrain Oil - France
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Palmarosa, India
.1 Alcohol C - 10 5 Carnation ( Iso - Eugenol )
6 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Sensient
3 Citronellol 80 9 Linalyl Acetate Extra
1 Sandiff .1 Violiff
9 Laurine Extra 1 Florantone T
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Galbanum Absolue
7 Laurinal .1 Geraniol 600
9 alpha - Ionone Extra 1 Florosia
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Bourgenal
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol 60
2 Bois De Rose Oil - India 1,000
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Eugenyl Acetate

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 9d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Tincture 1 Geraniol Prime

10 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
44 Galaxolide 50 DEP 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Polarose - Polarome
7 Vanisal 3 Orangeflor
11 Osyrol 5 Wardia
23 Salicylate de Benzyle 27 Linalool
41 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
6 Iso E Super 3 Top Galbanum
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Amere Bresil
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 1 Tangerine Oil Florida ( C.P. )
61 MDJ - Kao Corp. - Japan 11 Phenylethylalcohol
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Acetate Geranyl
4 Fleuramone 4 iso - Jasmone
7 Osyrol 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
5 Methyl Benzoate .4 Methyl Tuberate
114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Petitgrain Oil - France
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Palmarosa, India
.1 Alcohol C - 10 5 Iso Eugenol
8 Hydroxy Citronellal - USA 1 Sensient
3 Citronellol 80 9 Linalyl Acetate Pure
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur - FFC Aroma .1 Folione
9 Laurine Extra 1 Florantone T
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Galbanum Absolue
7 Bonorax .1 Geraniol 600
9 alpha - Ionone Extra 1 Florosia
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Bourgenal
3 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
24 Geraniol BRI FCC
2 Bois De Rose Oil - Brazil 1,000
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Bisabolene

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 9e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Artificial 1 Geraniol Pure

10 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
43 Galaxolide Artessence Base 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Rosalva
5 Vanillin 3 Orangeflor
11 Santalex T Neat 5 Wardia
23 Benzyl Salicylate 27 Linalool
41 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
6 Iso E Super 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
4 Hydrofix R 1 Neroli Oil - Morocco, Tunisia
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 1 Tangerinol - Givaudan
61 Super Cepionate - Zeon Corp. Japan 15 Alcool Di Phenyl
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate
4 Fleuramone 4 Meijiff
3 Osyrol 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate - Zeon
5 Methyl Benzoate .4 Methyl Tuberate
114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Cherry Birch Oil
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Palmarosa, India
.1 Alcohol C - 10 2 Iso Eugenol
6 Lilivert 1 Sensient
3 Citronellol 80 9 Linalyl Acetate Extra
1 Sandiff .1 Nonadien 1 ol
9 Laurine Extra 1 Florantone T
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Galbanum Absolue
7 Bonorax .1 Geraniol 600
9 alpha - Ionone Extra 1 Florosia
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Bourgenal
3 Petilyn
24 Geraniol Pur FCC
2 Folrosia 1,000
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Apple Blossom

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 10a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 3 Massoia Ecorce - India

8 Musk Emeressence 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Neroli, Tunisia
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 22 Linalool
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 9
45 Macrolide - Syrmise 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
8 Vanillin 3 Neroli Oliffac
7 Hidroxicitronelal 19 Geraniol Pure
9 Sandela 10 Orange Blossom Base
48 Benzyl Acetate 4 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Cassis Fragrance
1 Beta Damascone .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Methyl Benzoate 3 Geranium Oil Egyptian
4 Hawthorn ( Anisic Aldehyde ) 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
115 Muguet Base 2 Iris odor
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil ( Pink or White )
9 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 38 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellol 80 % ( Geraniol 15 % ) 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
13 Lioral .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Cashmeran 1 Rosilial
8 Benzylacetate .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Methyl Cedrylone 1 Muguet Aldehyde
25 Rose Base # 60 2 Tangerinol
4 Methyl Ionone
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Geranium Rose Egyptian
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
82 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Hydroxycitronellol
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Nerol Petals

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 10b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Rhodiascent 3 Massoia Ecorce - India

8 Musk Emeressence 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
13 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 3 Neroli Super NC
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 22 Linalool
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 9
41 Serenolide 1 Cinnamon Leaf Oil
8 Vanillin 3 Bitter Orange Oil
7 Hidroxicitronelal 16 Geraniol 970 Prime
9 Sandela 10 Orange Blossom Base
44 Benzyl Acetate 4 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Cassis Fragrance
1 Beta Damascone .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Methyl Benzoate 3 Geranium Oil Egyptian
4 Aubepine 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
119 Muguet Base 2 Iritone V
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil ( Pink or White )
9 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 38 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellol RH 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
13 Lioral .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Muskylein 1 Rosilial
8 Acetato Benzila .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Methyl Cedrylone 1 Muguet Aldehyde
29 Rose Base # 60 2 Tangerine Oil Dancy Type
4 Iris Beurre Oil
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
24 Carnation Base
1 Geranium Rose Egyptian
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
85 Ionone Intermediate Base
3 Hydroxycitronellal A
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Nerol

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 10c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Crystals - China 3 Sandalore

8 Musk Emeressence 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
9 Benzylsalicylate 3 Neroli, Tunisia
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 22 Linalool
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 9
45 Macrolide - Syrmise 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
8 Vanillin 3 Neroli Italie
7 Hidroxicitronelal 19 Geraniol Fine
9 Sandela 10 Orange Blossom Base
48 Benzyl Acetate 4 Geranyl Acetate natural
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Cassis Fragrance
1 Anisyl Alcohol .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Methyl Benzoate 3 Geranium Oil Egyptian
4 Anisic Aldehyde 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
115 Muguet Base 2 Iris odor
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil of Texas ( C.P. )
9 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 38 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellol C 1 Petitgrian Bigaradier
13 Lioral .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Damascenone - Firmenich
8 Benzylacetate .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Methyl Cedrylone 1 Orangeflor
25 Rose Base # 60 2 Tangerine Oil Florida
4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Benzophenone
3 Iso Jasmone
82 Ionone Alpha Refined
3 Hydroxycitronellol
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Nerol 97 Pure

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Orange Flower

Orange Flower # 10d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Helional 3 Anthea Sandal Coeur

8 Etilen Brassilato 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Neroli, Bourbon
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 22 Linalool
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Rose Essence Abs.
43 Macrolide - Syrmise 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
8 Vanilys 3 Neroli Oliffac
7 Hidroxicitronelal 19 Geraniol Coeur FCC
9 Sandela 15 Orange Blossom Base
48 Hedione - Firmenich 4 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Kir Base # 9741
1 Beta Damascone .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Methyl Benzoate 3 Geranium Oil Egyptian
4 Hawthorn ( Anisic Aldehyde ) 3 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
115 Muguet Base 2 Methyl Ionone Alpha 60
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Grapefruit Oil ( Pink or White )
9 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 39 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellol Mugasa 92 % 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
15 Lioral .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Nepalva 1 Alpha Damascone
8 Benzylacetate .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Kephalis 1 Muguet Aldehyde
25 Rose Base # 67 2 Tangerinol
4 Methyl Ionone
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Geranium Rose Egyptian
3 Jasmonyl Acetate
82 Iso Raldeine 70
3 Hydroxyciol
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Nerol Petals

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Orange Flower # 10e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 3 Massada

8 Musk Emeressence 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Neroli, Tunisia
4 Heliotropine 22 Linalol
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .5 Rose De Mai Abs. - Romania
35 Galaxolide GX 1 Para Cresyl Distilled
8 Vanilline 3 Neroli Oliffac
7 Lilial 19 Geraniol Pure
9 Sandalore 10 Orange Blossom Base
48 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 4 Acetate Geranyle 98 %
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Stemone
1 Beta Damascone .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Methyl Benzoate 3 Geranium Oil Egyptian
4 Hawthorn ( Anisic Aldehyde ) 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
125 Muguet Base 2 alpha Ionone Extra
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia Substitute
4 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Methyl Pamplemousse
9 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 38 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellol Pure 1 Tangerine Oil of Florida
16 Lioral .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Cashmeran 1 9-Decen-1-OL
8 Benzylacetate .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Iso E Super 1 Muguet Aldehyde
25 Rose Base # 63 2 Mandarinal
4 Methyl Ionone
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Geranium Rose Egyptian
3 Jasmone
82 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Hydroxycitronelloldimethylacetal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Nerol 85 %

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose
A rose is a perennial plant of the
genus Rosa, within the family
Rosaceae. There are over 100
species. They form a group of erect
shrubs, and climbing or trailing
plants, with stems that are often
armed with sharp prickles. Flowers
are large and showy, in a number of
colours from white through yellows
and reds. Most species are native to
Asia, with smaller numbers native
to Europe, North America, and
northwest Africa. Species, cultivars
and hybrids are all widely grown
for their beauty and fragrance. Rose
plants range in size from compact,
miniature roses, to climbers that
can reach 7 meters in height.
Species from different parts of the
world easily hybridize, which has
given rise to the many types of gar-
den roses.
The name rose comes from
French, itself from Latin, rosa,
which was borrowed from Oscan,
from Greek rhodion (Aeolic wrodi-
on), from Old Persian wurdi
"flower" (cf. Avest. warda, Sogdian
ward, Parthian wâr).
The leaves are borne alternately
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Rose
on the stem. In most species they tivars do not produce hips, as the
are 5–15 centimetres long, pinnate, flowers are so tightly petalled that
with leaflets and basal stipules; the they do not provide access for pol-
leaflets usually have a serrated mar- lination. The hips of most species
gin, and often a few small prickles are red, but a few (e.g. Rosa
on the underside of the stem. Most pimpinellifolia) have dark purple to
roses are deciduous but a few (par- black hips. Each hip comprises an
ticularly from South east Asia) are outer fleshy layer, the hypanthium,
evergreen or nearly so. which contains 5–160 "seeds"
(technically dry single-seeded
Pink roses in full bloom fruits called achenes) embedded in
a matrix of fine, but stiff, hairs.
The flowers of most species Rose hips of some species, espe-
have five petals, with the exception cially the Dog Rose (Rosa canina)
of Rosa sericea, which usually has and Rugosa Rose (Rosa rugosa),
only four. Each petal is divided into are very rich in vitamin C, among
two distinct lobes and is usually the richest sources of any plant.
white or pink, though in a few The hips are eaten by fruit-eating
species yellow or red. Beneath the birds such as thrushes and
petals are five sepals (or in the case waxwings, which then disperse the
of some Rosa sericea, four). These seeds in their droppings. Some
may be long enough to be visible birds, particularly finches, also eat
when viewed from above and the seeds.
appear as green points alternating
with the rounded petals. The ovary Rose thorns are actually prickles -
is inferior, developing below the outgrowths of the epidermis.
petals and sepals. Roses are insect-
pollinated in nature. While the sharp objects along a
rose stem are commonly called
The aggregate fruit of the rose "thorns", they are technically prick-
is a berry-like structure called a les - outgrowths of the epidermis
rose hip. Many of the domestic cul- ( the outer layer of tissue of the
371

stem ). ( True thorns, as produced
by e.g. Citrus or Pyracantha, are
modified stems, which always orig-
inate at a node and which have
nodes and internodes along the
length of the thorn itself ). Rose
prickles are typically sickle-shaped
hooks, which aid the rose in hang-
ing onto other vegetation when
growing over it. Some species such
as Rosa rugosa and Rosa pimpinel-
lifolia have densely packed straight
spines, probably an adaptation to
reduce browsing by animals, but
also possibly an adaptation to trap
wind-blown sand and so reduce
erosion and protect their roots (
both of these species grow natural-
ly on coastal sand dunes ). Despite
the presence of prickles, roses are
frequently browsed by deer. A few
species of roses have only vestigial
prickles that have no points.
Species
The genus Rosa is subdivided into
four subgenera:
Hulthemia ( formerly Simpli-cifoli-
ae, meaning "with single leaves" )
containing one or two species from
southwest Asia, R. persica and
Rosa berberifolia which are the
only roses without compound
leaves or stipules.
Hesperrhodos ( from the Greek for
"western rose" ) contains Rosa
minutifolia and Rosa stellata, from
North America.
Platyrhodon ( from the Greek for
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Glen O. Brechbill
"flaky rose", referring to flaky pink, lilac, mulberry and red roses
bark ) with one species from east from everywhere but North Africa.
Asia, Rosa roxburghii.
Synstylae - white, pink, and crim-
Rosa ( the type subgenus ) contain- son flowered roses from all areas.
ing all the other roses. This sub- Rose-picking in the Rose Valley
genus is subdivided into 11 sec- near the town of Kazanlak, 1870s,
tions. engraving by F. Kanitz
Banksianae - white and yellow Uses
flowered roses from China.
Roses are best known as ornamen-
Bracteatae - three species, two from tal plants grown for their flowers in
China and one from India. the garden and sometimes indoors.
They have been also used for com-
Caninae - pink and white flowered mercial perfumery and commercial
species from Asia, Europe and cut flower crops. Some are used as
North Africa. landscape plants, for hedging and
for other utilitarian purposes such
Carolinae - white, pink, and bright as game cover. They also have
pink flowered species all from minor medicinal uses.
North America.
Garden Roses
Chinensis - white, pink, yellow, red
and mixed-color roses from China The majority of ornamental
and Burma. roses are hybrids that were bred for
their flowers. A few, mostly species
Gallicanae - pink to crimson and roses are grown for attractive or
striped flowered roses from west- scented foliage (such as Rosa glau-
ern Asia and Europe. ca and Rosa rubiginosa), ornamen-
tal thorns (such as Rosa sericea) or
Gymnocarpae - one species in for their showy fruit (such as Rosa
western North America (Rosa gym- moyesii).
nocarpa), others in east Asia.
Ornamental roses have been
Laevigatae - a single white flow- cultivated for millennia, with the
ered species from China earliest known cultivation known
to date from at least 500 BC in
Pimpinellifoliae - white, pink, Mediterranean countries, Persia,
bright yellow, mauve and striped and China. Many thousands of rose
roses from Asia and Europe. hybrids and cultivars have been
bred and selected for garden use as
Rosa ( Cinnamomeae) - white, flowering plants. Most are double-
372
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

flowered with many or all of the effectively. Significant quantities Geraniol ( C10H18O )
stamens having mutated into addi- are grown in some tropical coun-
tional petals. tries, and these are shipped by air to The main constituents of attar
markets across the world. of roses are the fragrant alcohols
In the early 19th century the geraniol and l-citronellol; and rose
Empress Josephine of France Perfume camphor, an odourless paraffin.
patronized the development of rose Damascenone is also a significant
breeding at her gardens at Rose perfumes are made from contributor to the scent.
Malmaison. As long ago as 1840 a attar of roses or rose oil, which is a
collection numbering over one mixture of volatile essential oils Rose water, made as a byprod-
thousand different cultivars, vari- obtained by steam distilling the uct of rose oil production, is widely
eties and species was possible when crushed petals of roses. An associ- used in Asian and Middle Eastern
a rosarium was planted by ated product is rose water which is cuisine. The French are known for
Loddiges nursery for Abney Park used for cooking, cosmetics, medi- their rose syrup, most commonly
Cemetery, an early Victorian gar- cine and in religious practices. The made from an extract of rose petals.
den cemetery and arboretum in production technique originated in In the United States, this French
England. Persia then spread through Arabia rose syrup is used to make rose
and India, but nowadays about 70% scones and marshmallows.
A few species and hybrids are to 80% of production is in the Rose
grown for non-floral ornamental Valley near Kazanluk in Bulgaria, Rose hips
use. Among these are those grown with some production in Qamsar in
for prominent hips, such as the Iran and Germany.[citation needed] The rose hip, the fruit of some
flagon shaped hips of Rosa moye- The Kaaba in Mecca is annually species, is used as a minor source
sii. Sometimes even the thorns can washed by the Iranian rose water of Vitamin C.
be treated as an attraction or curios- from Qamsar[citation needed]. In
ity, such as with Rosa sericea. Bulgaria, Iran and Germany, Rosa canina hips
damask roses (Rosa damascena
Cut flowers 'Trigintipetala') are used. In the Rose hips are occasionally
French rose oil industry Rosa cen- made into jam, jelly, and mar-
Roses are a popular crop for tifolia is used. The oil is transpar- malade, or are brewed for tea, pri-
both domestic and commercial cut ent pale yellow or yellow-grey in marily for their high vitamin C con-
flowers. Generally they are harvest- colour. 'Rose Absolute' is solvent- tent. They are also pressed and fil-
ed and cut when in bud, and held in extracted with hexane and produces tered to make rose hip syrup. Rose
refrigerated conditions until ready a darker oil, dark yellow to orange hips are also used to produce Rose
for display at their point of sale. in colour. The weight of oil extract- hip seed oil, which is used in skin
ed is about one three-thousandth to products and some makeup prod-
In temperate climates, cut roses one six-thousandth of the weight of ucts.
are often grown in glasshouses, and the flowers; for example, about two
in warmer countries they may also thousand flowers are required to Medicine
be grown under cover in order to produce one gram of oil.
ensure that the flowers are not dam- The fruits of many species have
aged by weather and that pests and significant levels of vitamins and
disease control can be carried out have been used as a food supple-

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 Glen O. Brechbill

ment ( see previous section ). Many
roses have been used in herbal and
folk medicines. Rosa chinensis has
long been used in Chinese tradi-
tional medicine. This and other
species have been used for stomach
problems, and are being investigat-
ed for controlling cancer growth.
Art
Roses are often portrayed by
artists. The Luxembourg born
Belgian artist Pierre-Joseph
Redouté produced some of the most
detailed paintings of roses.
Renoir's painting of cabbage
roses, Roses in a vase
Rose Oil
Rose oil, meaning either rose
otto ( attar of rose, attar of roses ) or
rose absolute, is the essential oil
extracted from the petals of various
types of rose. Rose ottos are
extracted through steam distilla-
tion, while rose absolutes are
obtained through solvent extraction
or supercritical carbon dioxide
extraction, with the absolute being
used more commonly in perfumery.
Even with their high price and the
advent of organic synthesis, rose
oils are still perhaps the most wide- quality of rose oil. Even though
ly used essential oil in perfumery.
Two major species of rose are culti- up for slightly more than 90% of
vated for the production of rose oil: the odor content due to their low
Rosa damascena, the damask
rose, which is widely grown in
Bulgaria, Turkey, Russia, Pakistan, Production
India, Uzbekistan, Iran and China
Due to the labor-intensive pro-
Rosa centifolia, the cabbage duction process and the low content
rose, which is more commonly of oil in the rose blooms, rose oil
grown in Morocco, France and commands a very high price.
Egypt Harvesting of flowers is done by
hand in the morning before sunrise
Most rose oil is produced in and material is distilled the same
Bulgaria, Morocco, Iran and day.
Turkey. Recently, China has begun
producing rose oil as well. There are three main methods of
extracting the oil from the plant
The most common chemical com- material:
pounds present in rose oil are:
Steam distillation, which pro-
Citronellol, geraniol, nerol, duces an oil called rose otto or attar
linalool, phenyl ethyl alcohol, far- of roses.
nesol, stearoptene, -pinene, -
pinene, -terpinene, limonene, p- Solvent extraction, which
cymene, camphene, -caryophyl- results in an oil called rose
lene, neral, citronellyl acetate, ger- absolute.
anyl acetate, neryl acetate, eugenol,
methyl eugenol, rose oxide, -dama- Supercritical carbon dioxide
scenone, -damascenone, benzalde- extraction, yielding an essential oil
hyde, benzyl alcohol, rhodinyl that may be marketed as either an
acetate, phenyl ethyl formate absolute or as a CO2 extract.
The key flavor compounds that Distillation
contribute to the distinctive scent of
rose oil, however, are beta-damas- In the process of distillation,
cenone, beta-damascone, beta- large stills, traditionally of copper,
ionone, and rose oxide. Beta-dama- are filled with roses and water. The
scenone presence and quantity is still is fired for 60 - 105 minutes.
considered as the marker for the The vaporized water and rose oil
exit the still and enter a condensing
these compounds exist in less than apparatus and are then collected in
1% quantity of rose oil, they make a flask. This distillation yields a
very concentrated oil, direct oil,
which makes up about 20% of the
odor detection thresholds. final product. The water which con-
denses along with the oil is drained
off and redistilled, cohobation, in

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose
order to obtain the water-soluble
fractions of the rose oil such as
phenyl ethyl alcohol which are a
vital component of the aroma and
which make up the large bulk, 80%,
of the oil. The two oils are com-
bined and make the final rose otto.
Rose otto is usually dark olive-
green in color and will form white
crystals at normal room tempera-
ture which disappear when the oil is
gently warmed. It will tend to
become more viscous at lower tem-
peratures due to this crystallization
of some of its components.
The essence has a very strong
odor, but is pleasant when diluted
and used for perfume. Attar of
roses was once made in India,
Persia, Syria, and the Ottoman
Empire. The Rose Valley in
Bulgaria, near the town of
Kazanlak, is among the major pro-
ducers of attar of roses in the
world.[2]
Due to the heat required for dis-
tillation, some of the compounds
extracted from the rose undergo
denaturing or chemical breakdown.
As such, rose otto does not smell
very similar to "fresh" roses.
The hydrosol portion of the dis-
tillate is known as rosewater. This
inexpensive by-product is used
widely as a food flavoring as well
as in skin care.
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Solvent extraction CO2 changes directly from a solid
to a gas in a process known as sub-
In the solvent extraction limation ). The supercritical fluid
method, the flowers are agitated in CO2 extracts the aromatics from
a vat with a solvent such as hexane, the plant material.
which draws out the aromatic com-
pounds as well as other soluble sub- Like solvent extraction, the
stances such as wax and pigments. CO2 extraction takes place at a low
The extract is subjected to vacuum temperature, extracts a wide range
processing which removes the sol- of compounds rendering an essence
vent for re-use. The remaining more faithful to the original, and
waxy mass is known as a concrete. leaves the aromatics unaltered by
The concrete is then mixed with heat. Because CO2 is gas at normal
alcohol which dissolves the aro- atmospheric pressure, it leaves no
matic constituents, leaving behind trace of itself in the final product.
the wax and other substances. The The equipment for CO2 extraction
alcohol is low-pressure evaporated, is expensive, which is reflected in
leaving behind the finished the price of the essential oils
absolute. The absolute may be fur- obtained from the process.
ther processed to remove any impu-
rities that are still present from the Adulteration
solvent extraction.
It takes many pounds of rose petals
Rose absolute is a deep reddish to distill one ounce of essential oil.
brown with no crystals. Due to the Depending on extraction method
low temperatures in this process, and plant species, the average yield
the absolute may be more faithful can range from 1:1500 to 1:10000.
to the scent of the fresh rose than To mitigate the cost, some dishon-
the otto. est dealers will dilute rose oil with
geranium ( Pelargonium graveolens
Carbon dioxide extraction ) or Palmarosa ( Cymbopogon mar-
tinii ) EO's, both of which are rich
A third process, supercritical in geraniol, the main constituent of
carbon dioxide extraction, com- rose oil. Some of these 'rose oils'
bines the best aspects of the other are up to 90% geranium or pal-
two methods. When carbon dioxide marosa to 10% rose. This is
is put under at least 72.9 atm of referred to as extending the Rose
pressure and at a temperature of at fragrance. This may be done to
least 31.1°C (the critical point), it compensate for chemotype, e.g.
becomes a supercritical fluid with Bulgarian distilled Rose oil is natu-
the permeation properties of a gas rally low in phenylethanol, and
and the solvation properties of a Ukrainian or Russian rose oil is nat-
liquid. ( Under normal pressure urally high in phenylethanol.
375
 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose Fragrance Chemicals

BOOK # 1 ( A - G Rose ABSOLUTES

A & E Connock Ltd - U.K. Adrian Industries SAS - France Rose Abs. - Morocco
Rose De Mai Abs. - France
Geranium Rosewood
Alfa Chem - USA
Palmarosa AROMATIC RAW MATERIALS
Boise De Rose Oil Brazil
Rose Geranyle Acetate Bois De Rose Oil Terpeneless
Rose Absolute
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Geranium Oil Bourbon, Chinese,
AROMATIC WATERS Egyptian, Moroccan
ORGANIC ESSENTIAL OILS
Rose ( various types ) & EXTRACTS Palmarosa Oil Brazil, Guatemala,
India
AROMATIC WATER Palmarosa Oil - Andropogon
Martini AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Rose Provence
Rose Summer Damask Rose Oil - Rosa Damascena Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Nitrile
Tuberose Agan Aroma & Chemicals - Israel
Geraniol
A Fakhry & Company - Egypt Delta Damascone Geranyl Formate

Rosa Centifolia Cabbage Albert Vieille SA - France Phenoxy Ethyl Propionate

Rose / Organic Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Rosa Damascena Damascus Palmarosa Oil - India Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate
Rose ( Egypt ) Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether
Rose Oil - Bulgaria, Lebanon, Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate
A.N.E.C. - France Turkey Polarosa

Rock Rose Rosewood Oil - Brazil

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Amen Organics - India Nerol Oxide Geranyl Formate

Nerol Super Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Rose Concrete Geranyl Propionate
Rose Crystals Phenyl Ethyl Acetae
Rose Geranium Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Aromatics Adl - France
Rose Hip Oil Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether
Rose Indian Phenyl Ethyl Phnyl Acetate Geranium - Bourbon, Chine,
Rose Oil Pommerol Egypte
Rose Water
Rose Wood Oil Rhodinol Palmarosa - Guatemala,
Rose Oil ( Ruh ) Rhodinol ( Ex Geranium Oil ) Madagascar
Rosalva
Tuberose Absolute Rose Crystals Ex Benzaldehyde Rose - Bulgarie, Maroc, Turquie
Tuberose Concrete Rose Glycol
Rose Otto CONCRETES
Anthea Aromatics Pvt. Ltd. - India Rose Oxide ( High-Cis )
Rose Oxide ( Inactive ) Rose Atlas Maroc
Geraniol 60 Rose Centifolia Maroc
Geraniol 98 Aromatic Collection - France Rose Turquie

Anupam Industries - India Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chinese, Tubereuse Inde

Egyptian
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso PRODUITS AROMATIQUES NATUREL
Palmarosa Oil
Citronellal Acetate Citronellye Ex Citriodora
Citronellol 96 % Rosewood Oil Acetate Citronellyle 85 %
Citronellol Extra Acetate Citronellyle 95 %
Citronellyl Acetate Extra NATURAL ISOLATES Acetate Geranyle Ex Citronelle
Citronellyl Formate Acetate Geranyle 98 %
Citronellyl Nitrile Rhodinol Acetate Geranyle Savon
Citronellyl Propionate Acetate Neryle
CONCRETES & ABSOLUTES Acetate Rhodinyle Bourbon
Di Methyl Octonol Alcool Phenylethylique 96 %
Rose Bulgarian Alcool Phenylethylique 99 %
Gelsone
Geraniol 98 % AROMATIC CHEMICALS Butyrate Cironellyle
Geraniol Ex Palmrosa Butyrate Geranyle
Geraniol Extra Citronellyl Butyrate
Geranoxide Citronellyl Formate Citronellal Ex Citronelle
Geranyl Acetate Extra Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Citronellol 70 %
Geranyl Formate Citronellyl Propionate Citronellol 95 %
Geranyl Nitrile Citronellyl Tiglate Citronellol 97 %
Geranyl Propionate Citronellol 98 %
Geranyl Butyrate Citronellol Savon

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Dimethyloctanol Palmarosa Rosewood Texas Rectified

Formiate Citronellyle Rosewood Basf - Germany

Formiate Geranyle
Formiate Phenylethyle BOTANICALS Citronellal
Citronellol
Geraniol Ex Citronelle Rose Hip ( Extract ) Citronellyl Acetate
Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Citronellyl Nitrile
Geraniol 50 % Augustus Oils Ltd. - U.K.
( Autres Alcools 48 % ) Geraniol Extra
Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % ) Rhodinol Augaflor 18 Geraniol 60
Geraniol 98 % Rose Geranium Augaflor 19 Geranyl Acetate
Geraniol 99 % Rose Otto Augaflor
Geraniol Savon BASF Japan Ltd. - Japan
Tuberose Augaflor 25
Nerol 85 % Citronellol
Nerol 90 % ESSENTIAL OILS Citronellyl Acetate

Aromor Flavors & Fragrances Ltd. - Geranium Oils Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol pure
Israel
Rose Oils B.S. Industries - India
Alpha Damascone Rosewood Oils
Geranium Oil
Beta Damascone Rose Abs.
Palma Rosa Oil
Damascenone Australian Botanical - Aust.
Rodinol sweet
Artiste Flavor / Essence - USA Geranium - Bourbon Reunion, Rodinol - X
China, Egypt Rose Wood Oil
Geranium Oil
Palmarosa Bansal Aroma - India
Rose Oil
Rosewood Oil Rose Otto Bulgarian Geranium Oil
Rose Otto Damascena Turkish
ABSOLUTES Rosewood Brazilian Palmarosa Oil

Rose Axxence SARL - France Rose ( Abs. ) Oil

Rose Oil - Indian
Tuberose Rose Abs. Rosewood Oil / Boise De Rose

Astral Extracts - USA TRAVAIL A FACON RECTIFICATION Tea Rose Oil

FRACTIONNEMENT Tuberose Oil
Geranium
Rosewood Brasil Terp. Palmarosa Oil Extract

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose Attar Methyl Nonyl Ketone FCC Biolandes Parfumerie - France

Barosyl S.A. - France Neo Geranium Oil Rose Oil

Nerol BRI ( 98 + % ) FCC Rose Biodecolorized
Geranium - Bourbon, Chinese, Neryl Acetate BRI FCC Rose Absolute Decolorized
Egyptian, Moroccan Neryl Formate
Tuberose Absolute
Palmarosa 10-Undecen-1-OL
Rose Bioabsolute
Rosa Turkish - Rosa Damascena Bell Flavors & Fragrances - USA Rose Bioconcrete
Rose Bulgarian
Rosewood Rosenol synthetic Tuberose Artessence

ORGANIC ESSENTIAL OILS Berje Inc. - USA Bordas Destilaciones SA - Spain

Rose - Rosa Damascena Boise De Rose Oil Citronellol S 85

Citronellol S 95
Bedoukian Research - USA Geranium Oil - Chinese, Egyptian Citronellyl Acetate
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellol BRK FCC Palmarosa Oil Citronellyl Nitrile
Citronellyl Acetate BRK FCC Citronellyl Nitrile Terpenes
Citronellyl Anthranilate Rose Oil Bulgarian Citronellyl Propionate
Citronellyl Butyrate FCC Rose Oil Turkish
Citronellyl Formate FCC Geraniol 970
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate FCC AROMA CHEMICALS Geranyl Acetate
Citronellyl Propionate FCC Geranyl Butyrate
Citronellyl Valerate Benzophenone Geranyl Formate
Geranyl Iso Butyrate
9-Decen-1-OL Citronellol Natural
9-Decen-1-Yl Acetate Citronellol Pure Nerol 97
Citronellyl Nitrile
Geraniol BRI FCC Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate FCC Geraniol Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Geranyl Acetone Geranyl Nitrile Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
Geranyl Benzoate FCC
Geranyl Butyrate FCC Nerol Pure Brighten Colorchem - Netherlands
Geranyl Caprylate Neryl Acetate Pure
Geranyl Formate FCC Rhodinol
Geranyl Iso Butyrate # 344 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Geranyl Linalool Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Citronellol
Iso Amyl Geranate Rhodinol Ex Geranium Citronellyl Acetate
Rhodinol Synthetic

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Geraniol Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Acetato De Geranila

Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Butyrate Charabot & Company Inc. - France Citronelol
Geranyl Formate
Geranyl Propionate Geraniol Extra Damascenone Alpha
Geranium Bourbon Damascenone Beta
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Geranyl Acetate Extra Damascone Delta
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Di Metil Octanol
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Palmarosa Oil Geraniol
Rhodinol X Geranium Oil Geranyl Nitrile
Buckton Page Ltd. - U.K.
China Aroma Chemical - China Metil Tuberato
Geranium Oil
Geranium Oil Nerol
Palmrosa Oil
Rose Oil Citrus & Allied - USA
Rose Oil
Crimson Glory Rose Abs. Citronellol Coeur FCC
Carrubba Inc. - USA
Wild Rose Abs. Geraniol Coeur FCC
Geranium Geraniol Synthetic 85 FCC
Rose Concrete Geraniol Synthetic 98 FCC
Rose Rose Wild Concrete Geranyl Acetate Synthetic 85
Rose Centifolia Geranyl Butyrate Synthetic 85 %
Rose Geranium Chinessence Ltd. - China
Rose Hips CITRONELLOL & ESTERS
Rosewood Geraniol ex Citronella
Citronellal 85/09 % FCC
Castrading - Korea Citronellol Citronellal Residues
Citronellol Coeur FCC
Boise De Rose, Brazil Citral Oleos Essenciais - Brazil Citronellol Extra EOA 93/95 %
Citornellol Pure FCC
Geranium - Bourbon, China, Egypt Rose Givco 217 Citronellyl Acetate Extra FCC
Citronellyl Butyrate Extra FCC
Champon Vanilla - USA Geranium Graveolens Oil Citronellyl Formate Extra FCC
Citronellyl Formate Pure
Citronellyl Nitrile Rose Damascena BG Oil Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Extra FCC
Rose Damascena TK Oil Citronellyl Propionate
Geraniol
Geranyl Acetate Geranium Graveolens Oil A0650 GERANIOL & ESTERS
Geranyl Nitrile
PERFUMARIA Geraniol ( Fine Perfumery )
Nerol Geraniol Coeur FCC
Acetato Citronelila Geraniol ex Palma Rosa

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Geraniol Extra EOA 92/94 % Geranyl Butyrate Citronellyl Formate

Geraniol Super EOA 96/98 T Geranyl Formate Citronellyl Propionate
Geraniol Synthetic 95 FCC Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Geraniol Synthetic 98 FCC Geranyl Proionate Geraniol
Geranyl Acetate 95/90 T FCC Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate Extra Cookson & Hunt - USA Geranyl Butyrate
Geranyl Acetate Extra FCC Geranyl Formate
Geranyl Acetate Super FCC Rosewood Oil - Brazil Geranyl Propionate
Geranyl Acetate Synthetic 85
Geranyl Formate Extra FCC Cosmark - Australia Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Geranyl Iso Butyrate Extra Phenyl Ethyl 2 - Methyl Butyrate
Geranyl Propionate Extra Geranyl Acetate
NATURAL AROMA CHEMICALS
NEROL & ESTERS Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Geraniol
Nerol Special FCC Geranyl Acetate
Nerol Synthetic 95 % Creative Fragrances Ltd. - USA
Neryl Acetate Synthetic 95 Destilerias Munoz Galvez - Spain
Neryl Formate Synthetic 95 Bois de Rose Oil - Brazil
Citronellol Mugasa 92 %
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol & Esters Geranium Oil Bourbon - Reunion
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Extra Geranium Oil Egyptian - Egypt Geraniol Pure
Phenyl Ethyl Formate Geranyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Rose Absolute Maroc - Morocco Geranyl Nitrile
Rose Oil Otto - Bulgaria
Clos D-Aguzon - France Rosewood Oil - Brazil Nerol 98 %
Neryl Acetate
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chinese, DMH Ingredients - USA
Egyptian Diffusions Aromatiques - France
Rose Bulgarian
Palmarosa Oil Rose Turkish Citronellol 95 %
Rosewood Oil
Rosewood Oil Rosalin
De Monch Aromatics, Inc. - U.K.
Rose Bulgarian Abs. Dulcos Trading - France
Geranium Chinese
Rhodinol - Natural Isolate Bois De Rose Bresil
Rose Bulgarian
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Rose Turkish Geranium Bourbon
Geranium Chine
Citronellyl Butyrate AROMA CHEMICALS Geranium Egypte
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate
Citronellyl Formate Citronellol Palmarosa Inde
Citronellyl Propionate Citronellyl Butyrate

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Palmarosa Madagascar AROMA CHEMCIALS Formiate De Geranyle

Dullberg Konzentra - Germany Citronellol Geraniol Extra pur

Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Acetone
Geranium Oil Geranyl Nitrile
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Rockrose Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Nerol Extra LG
Rose Oil Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate
Phenyl Ethyl Tiglate Euma - Argentina
Earth Oil Plantations - U.K.
Esarco - Argentina Geranium Africa, Bourbon
Geranium Oil
Palmrosa Oil Palma Rose Oil
Rose Oil
Essencias y Materiales Lozmar, S.A. Rose Hip Oil Refined ( Clair )
Enter Oil - Viet Nam de C.Y. - Mex. Rose Hip Oil Pressure Distilled
( Coloured )
Palmarosa Oil Geranio Africa
Geranio Palmarosa NATURAL MATERIALS
Geraniol 60 % min. Geraniol
Geraniol 75 % min. Bois De Rose ( Palo Rosa )
Esperia S.p.A. - Italy
ISOLATES Geranio Aceite Esencial
Neroly Geraniol Africa
Geraniol - ex Palmarosa Oil Geranio Borbon Ac. Es.
95 % ex Citronella Rose Riveria
Oil 90 % min. Palmarosa Ac.
Essencia, Aetherische - Switzerland
Eramex Aromatics - Germany Rosa Mosqueta Organica
Boise de Rose ( rosa rubiginosa )
Geranium Oil - Chinese, Egyptian Rosa Mosqueta Refinda
Geranium Bourbon ( rosa rubiginosa )
Palmarosa Oil, Indian Geranium Egypte Rosa Turca Absoluto

Rose Oil - Russian, Turkish Rose Bulgarie Exaflor - France

Rosewood Oil Rose Turquie
Rose Absolute / Concrete, Egypt Rose De Mai Absolue CONCRETES
Rose Absolute, Turkey
AROMATIC MATERIALS Rose - Egypte
Tuberose Absolute / Concrete
Acetate De Geranyle Tubereuse - Inde
Geraniol Ex Palmarosa - natural
Damascenone Totale
Damascone Alpha

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

FD Copeland & Sons Ltd. - UK Tuberose Concrete Fleurchem, Inc. - USA

Geranium Oil - Bourbon Firmenich SA - Switzerland Boise de Rose, Brazil

Geranium Oil - Chinese Boise de Rose, Peru
Geranium Oil - Egyptian Damarose Alpha
Damascenia 185 HB Geranium - Algeria, Bourbon,
Palmarosa Oil Damascenone Chinese, Egyptian, Morocco
Damascenone Total
Rosewood Oil ( Bois De Rose ) Damascone Alpha Rose Otto - Bulgarian, Morocco,
Damascone Beta Turkish
Rose Abs. Damascone Beta FAB
Damascone Delta Rosewood ( Boise de Rose )
Tuberose Abs. Damascone Gamma
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Rose Concrete Roseessence 193 D
Alcohol C - 9
Farotti Essences srl - Italy Wardia Alcohol C - 10

Geranium Bourbon FA Essence Fiveash Data Management - USA Citronellol

Geranium Egypt Essence Citronellyl Formate
Geranium Palmarosa Turkey Geranium Bulgaria - China, Egypt,
Essence India, Madagascar, Geraniol, Perfumery Grade
Reunion Island, South Africa Geranyl Formate
Rose Morocco Abs. Essence Geranyl Nitrile
Rose Morocco Essence Palmarosa India
Rosewood Essence Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Rosewood - Bois De Rose, Brazil
Fayyum Gharbya Aromatic - Egypt Fleurin, Inc. - USA
FOOD OILS
Tuberose Abs. Geranium Oil
Tuberose Concrete Rose Hip Cp Chile
Rose Hip Seed Refined Chile Rose Oil - Turkey
Fine Chemical Trading - U.K.
Flavodor - The Netherlands ABSOLUTES
Palmarosa
Bois De Rose Oil Rose Abs. - Bulgaria
Rose Rose De Mai Abs.
Geranium Oil Rose Abs. - Morocco
ABSOLUTES
Palmarosa Oil Tuberose Abs.
Rose, Edward Bourbonia Abs.
Rose, Damascenia Abs. Rose Abs. Florachem Corporation - USA

Tuberose Abs. Tuberose Abs. Citronellol Natural

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Citronellyl Acetate
Citronellyl Nitrile
Citronellyl Propionate
Rosalina Crystal
Flowersynth - India
ROSE MATERIALS
Citronellyl Acetal
Di Methyl Acetal
Phenyl Acetaldehyde
Citronellyl Acetate
Citronellyl Butyrate
Citronellyl Propionate
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate Ex. Palmrosa
Geranyl Formate
Phenyl Acetaldehyde Citronellyl
Acetal
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Frencharoma Imports Co. - USA
Geranium
Rosewood
Geraniol
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Frey - Lau GmbH - Germany
Geranium Oil
Rose Oil
Rosewood Oil
Fritzsche SAICA - Argentina
Geranium Oil
Fruitarom Industries - Israel
Boise De Rose Brazil
Geranium Oil - African, Bourbon,
Chinese, Egypt
Palmarosa Oil East Indian
Rose Geranium Oil
Rose Oil Turkish
Rose Oil Type NF17
Furest Day Lawson - UK
Bois De Rose Oil
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
GMPCT - India
Palma Rosa Oil
Palmorasa Oil
Citronellol from Citronela
Citronellol - High Purity
Geraniol from Citral
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
384
Rose Crystals from Benzaldehyde
Rose Oxide from Citronellol
Givaudan Fragrance Corp - Switz.
Rose Givco 217
Adoxal
Aldehyde Iso C - 11
Geranodyle
Quest International - ( Switz )
Citronellyl Nitrile
Damas Rose FM 1248
Dorina SA
Geraniol For Soap AB 2015
Geranium Oil Syn ABQ 5629
Geranofix AB 751
Pelargone
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Extra
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Rose AB380D
Rosania FM1018
Top Rose ABQ5644
Global Essence Ltd. - U.K.
Bois de Rose Oil ( Rosewood )
Pamarosa Oil
Rose Abs.
Rose Oil Organic
Citronellyl Acetate
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Citronellyl Formate - Usa Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Geranium Egypte

Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Formate - Usa
Geranyl Nitrile
Geranyl Tiglate - Usa
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate - USA
Rosalin
Rose Oxide
Grolin & Company - USA
Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Palmarosa
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate
Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd., - UK
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Geranium Oil
Rose Crystals Palmarosa Oil
Rose Oxide
Rose Oil ( Otto )
Gyran Flavours - India
CONCENTRATED BOTANICAL HERBAL
Palmarosa Oil EXTRACTS

Boise De Rose Oil - Brazil HC Biochem - China Geranium

Geranium - Bourbon, China Geranium Oil Rose Mallow

Rosehip
Rose - Bulgaria Rose Oil Rosewood
Rose - Turkey
Rosewood - Brazil Crimson Glory Rose Abs. AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Crimson Glory Rose Concrete
Graham Chemical Corp. - USA Alcohol C - 10
Wild Rose Concrete
Geranium Oil Benzophenone
H. Reynaud & Fils - France
Palmarosa Oil Citronellol 99 %
Bois De Rose Bresil Citronellyl Acetate 99 %
Rose Oil Citronellyl Butyrate
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chine, Citronellyl Formate
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Egypte Citronellyl Formate 99 %
Citronellyl Propionate
Citronellol Palmarosa
Citronellyl Acetate Geraniol 99 %
Citronellyl Formate Rose Bulgare Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
Citronellyl Nitrile Rose Bulgare Abs. Geranyl Acetate
Rose Maroc Geranyl Butyrate
Geranyl Acetate Rose Maroc Abs. Geranyl Formate
Geranyl Formate Rose Turque Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Geranyl Propionate Geranyl Nitrile
Geranyl Tiglate WATER SOLUBLE OILS Geranyl Propionate

Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Bois De Rose Bresil Nerol 99 %

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Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Rose Crystals
Hindustan Mint & Agro - India
Geranium Oil
Palmrosa Oil
Rose Oil
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Citronellol
Geraniol ex Palmrosa 99 %
BOOK # II ( I - Z )
IPRA Fragrances - France
Bois de Rose Bresil
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chine,
Egypte
Rose Bulgare, Maroc, Turquie
ABSOLUES
Rose Maroc, Turquie
CONCRETES
Rose De Mai Pays - Maroc,
Turquie
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SYNTHETIC PRODUCTS
Acetate De Citronellyle
Acetate De Geranyle
Citronellol Ex Citriodora
Geraniol 100 %
Geraniol Extra Ex - Citronelle
Nerol Extra
Rhodinol Ex - Citronelle
Rhodinol Ex - Geranium
Innospec Inc. - USA
Citronellol 850
Rosone
Tetrahydro Geraniol
Interchim - France
Citronellol
Citronellyl Acetate
Citronellyl Butyrate
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate
Citronellyl Nitrile
Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate
Citronellyl Propionate
Citronellyl Tiglate
Citronellyl Valerate
Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Benzoate
Geranyl Butyrate
Geranyl Formate
Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Geranyl Iso Valerate
Geranyl Propionate
Geranyl Tiglate
386
Neryl Acetate
Neryl Butyrate
Neryl Iso Butyrate
3 - Octyl Acetate
IFF - USA
Citronellol 700 98 TA
Citronellol 750
Citronellol 950
Citronellol Coeur
Citronellyl Acetate
Citronellyl Formate
Geraldehyde
Geraniol 5020
Geraniol 7030
Geraniol 980 Pure
Geraniol Coeur
Geranyl Acetate A
Geranyl Acetate Extra
Geranyl Acetate Pure
Nerol 800
Nerol 850
Nerol 900
Neryl Acetate JAX
Peomosa
Phenyl Ehyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate
Roseate
Tetrahydro Geraniol
Vernol
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

JC Buck Ltd. - United Kingdom Kato Aromatic S.A.E. - Egypt Boise de Rose rectified

Bois De Rose Brazil Geranium Benzol Abs. Lluche Essence - Spain

Geranium Hexane Abs.
Geranium Oil - Bourbon Type, Geranium Oil - Bourbon, China,
Chinese, Rhodinol Ex. Geranium Oil Abs. Egypt

Geranium, Egyptian Type Kruetz Helmut - Portugal Palmarosa Oil

Palmarosa Indian Boise De Rose Oil - Brazil Rose Bulgaria Oil

Rose China Oil
Rose - Bulgarian, Commercial, Geranium Oil - Africa, Bourbon, Rose Iran Double Distilled Oil
Rose Egypt, Moroccan, China, Egypt Rose Iran Single Distilled Oil
Turkish Rose Turkey Oil
Palmarosa Oil - East Indian Rosewood Oil
ABSOLUTES
Rose Geranium Oil ABSOLUTES
Rose Bulgarian - Egyptian, Maroc Rose Oil - Turkey
Rose Oil Type NF17 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
J & Sozio, Inc. - USA Rose Morocco Abs.
Krupa Scientific - India Rose Turkey Abs.
Geranium Oil Bourbon
Citronellyl Acetate SYNTHETIC AROMA CHEMICALS
Rose Absolute Maroc Citronellyl Formate
Alcohol C - 09
J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda. - Brazil Geranyl Acetate Alcohol C - 10
Geranyl Formate
Rosa Benzophenone
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Joint American Ventures - USA Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate Citronellol
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Citronellol - L
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Citronellol 96 %
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Citronellyl Acetate
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Citornellyl Butyrate
Kanta House - India Citronellyl Formate
Laboratoire Monique Remy - France Citronellyl Iso Butyrate
Palmarosa Oil Citronellyl Nitrile
Rose Abs. Turkey Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate
Geranoil Ex Citronella Oil Rose Oil Turkey Citronellyl Propionate
Geranoil Ex Jamarosa Oil Citronellyl Tiglate
Geranoil Ex Palmarosa Oil Lionel Hitchen Ltd. - U.K.
Geraniol 60 %
Geranium Bourbon Geraniol 98 %
Geranyl Acetate

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Geranyl Benzoate
Geranyl Butyrate
Geranyl Formate
Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Geranyl Iso Valerate
Geranyl Nitrile
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
Geranyl Propionate
Nerol 95 %
Neryl Acetate
Neryl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate
Phenyl Ethyl Carpylate
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate
Phenyl Ethyl Crotonate
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Heptanoate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ethyl
Carbinol
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate
Phenyl Ethyl Tiglate
Phenyl Ethyl Valerate
Lothar Streek - Germany
Citronellyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Rhodinol
Rose Oxide CO
Rose Oxide Racemic
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
Glen O. Brechbill
M.X.D. Enterprise System - Korea
Bois De Rose Oil Extra
Geranium Oil Extra
Rose Turkish Oil Extra
ABSOLUTES
Geranium Abs.
Rose Morocco Abs. Extra
Mane SA - France
Baie Rose Oil - South Africa
Rose Turkish Oil - Turkey
NATURAL ABSOLUTES
Rose Pays Abs. - France
Rose Turkish Abs. - Turkey
Rose Turkish Abs. MD - Turkey
NATURAL CONCRETE
Rose Pays Concrete - France
Rose Turkish Concrete - Turkey
MOLECULAR DISTILLATIONS
Rose Abs. MD
ABSOFLORS
Rose Absoflor
Tuberose Absoflor
AROMA CHEMICALS
Geranyl Ethyl Ether
388
Nerol
NATURAL MOLECULES
Citronellol Ex Eucal
Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Butyrate
MelChem Distribution - USA
Citronellol Nat.
Citronellyl Acetate Nat.
Citronellyl Butyrate Nat.
Citronellyl Propionate Nat.
Geraniol Nat.
Geranyl Acetate Nat.
Geranyl Butyrate Nat.
Geranyl Propionate Nat.
Nerol Nat.
Neryl Acetate Nat.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Nat.
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Nat.
Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate Nat.
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Nat.
Millennium Chemicals - USA
Citronellol 96 FCC
Citronellol AJ FCC
Citronellol Prime
Citronellyl Acetate Extra
Geraniol 80
Geraniol BJ FCC
Geraniol Fine FCC
Geraniol Prime
Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
Geranyl Acetate FCC
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Nerolex Naradev - Hong Kong Geranium - China, Egypt,

Moellhausen S.p.A. - Italy
Boise De Rose Oil
Geranium Oil - Africa, Bourbon
Barbot, China, Egypt
Geranium Bourbon Type, Chinese,
Egyptian, Moroccan
Geranium over Roses
Palmarosa
Morocco, Reunion
Palmarosa - Brazil, India
Rose - Bulgaria, Morocco, Turkey
Oregano - Turkey

Palmarosa Oil Rose Bulgarian Distilled Extra Rose - Rosa Damascena

Rose Turkey Abs.
Moraflor Produits - France
Geranium - Bourbon - Reunion,
China, Egypt
Palmarosa - Guatemala
Rose Moroccan Extra
Rose Turkish Organica Aromatics - India
Rose Turkish Extra
Citronellyl Tiglate
Narain Terpene & Allied - India
Geranyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Geranyl Tiglate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether FLORAL

Rose - Egypt Nardev - Israel Alpha Damascone

SPECIALITIES OR RECONSTITUTE Boise De Rose Oil - Brazil Beta Damascone

OILS Bois De Rose Oil Terpeneless
Iso Damascone
Geranium Oil MF Geranium Oil - Bourbon, China,
Geranium Oil STD Egypt, Morocco Damascenone
Geranium Rose Oil MF
Palmarosa Oil - Guatemala, India PCAS - France
Rose Oil MF
Rose Oil Std Rose Oil - Bulgaria, Morocco, Citronellyl Formate
Turkey
Muller & Koster - France Geranyl Butyrate
Natural Sourcing, LLC - USA Geranyl Formate
Boise De Rose Geranyl Tiglate
Geranium Rosat, Egypt
Geranio - Africa, Bourbon, Tipo Geranium, China Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate
Bourbon, China Geranium Rose, Zimbabwe Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate
Palmarosa Palmarosa, India
PFW Aroma Chemicals - Neth.
Rosa Bulgara Essenza Oliganic - USA
Rosa Marocco Assoluta Rose Nitrile
Rosa Turca Assoluta Bois De Rose

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 Glen O. Brechbill

P.P. Sheth & Co. - India
Rose Oil Bulgaria
Rosewood Oil
Paul Kaders GmbH - Germany
Boise de Rose ( Rosewood Oil )
Geranium Oil
Geranium Oil pure, Bourbon,
Chinese
Palmarosa Oil Indian
Rose Oil Otto
Rosewood Oil Brazilian
Rose Hip Solid Extract
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Rosa Damascenia Oil - Bulgaria,
France, Morocco
Rose Oil - Bulgaria, Russia,
Turkey
Rose Otto Oil - Bulgaria
Rose Wood Oil - Brazil
Tuberose Oil
Turkish Geranium Oil

Palmarosa Oil Citronellol Peter Jarvis Cosmetic Ltd. - UK

Citronellyl Acetate
Rose ( Concrete / Absolute ) Citronellyl Butyrate Floral Water Rose
Rose Oil Citronellyl Propionate Floral Water Rose Hip
Rosewood Oil ( Bois de Rose )
Geranyl Acetate Geranium EG
Tuberose ( Concrete / Absolute ) Geranyl Butyrate Geranium EO
Geranyl Formate
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Geranyl Iso Butyrate Rose EA
Geranyl Iso Formate Rose EG
Geraniol Geranyl Propionate Rose EO
Rose Hip EG
PEA ( Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol ) Nerol Rose Petal EG
Neryl Propionate
Payan Bertrand SA - France Petigara Chemicals - India
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Boise De Rose Oil Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate Palmarosa Oil
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Citronellol Laevo natural Petit Marie - Brazil
Rhodinol
Geraniol natural Rosewood Oil
Geranium Bourbon, China, Egypt Perfume & Flavor Manuf. - Aust.
Rosa Abs.
Palmarosa Oil Bois De Rose Oil - Brazil
Tuberosa Abs.
ABSOLUTES Geranium Marorism Oil
Geranium Oil - Africa, Bourbon, Palmarosa Oleo
Rose Morocco Abs. China, Egypt, Morocco
Rose Turkey Abs. AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Palmarosa Oil
Penta Manufacturing - USA Acetato Citronelila
Rosa Centifolia Oil - Bulgaria, Acetato Geranila
Boise De Rose Oil France, Morocco Acetato Nerila

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Adoxal ( Farenal ) ABSOLUTES AROMATIC OILS

Alcool C - 9
Alcool C - 10 Geranium Abs. Beta Damascone

Butirato Citronelila Rose De Mai Abs. French Cyclo Rosan

Butirato Geranila
Damascenia 185
Damascenone
Damascone Alfa
Damascenone Beta
Delphone
Di Metil Octanol ( Pelargol )
Geraniol Extra
Propionato Geranila
Phoenix Essential Oils - USA
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chinese,
Egyptian
Palmarosa Oil
Rose Oil - Bulgarian, Turkish
Polarome International - USA
Bois De Rose Oil Brazil
Boise De Rose Oil Terpeneless
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chinese,
Egyptian, Moroccan
Palmarosa Oil - Brazil, Guatemala,
India
Rose Abs. Maroc
Rose Abs. Turkish
CONCRETE
Geranium Concrete Decolorized
Rose Concrete Maroc
Rose De Mai Concrete French
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Nitrile
Geranyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate
Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate
Polarose
Rose Crystals
Premier Chemical Corp. - India
Bois - De - Rose Oil
Geranium Oil
Geranyl Acetone
Rose Oxide
Prima Fleur - USA
Geranium Oil - China, Egypt
Palmarosa Oil - Nepal
Rose Oil - Bulgaria
Rose Hip - Germany
ABSOLUTES
Rose Abs.
Rosa Centifolia Morocco
Rose Abs.
Rosa Damascena Bulgaria
Rose Bourbon Abs.
Rosa Borboniana India
Tuberose Abs.
Polyanthes India
Privi Organics Ltd. - India
Citronellyl Acetate
Dimethyl Octanol
Dimethyl Octanyl Acetate

Rose Oil - Bulgarian, Maroccan, Palma Rosa Oil Geranyl Acetate

Turkish
Rose Wood Oil Neryl Acetate
Rosewood Oil - Brazil
( Boise De Rose Oil )

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Prodasynth - France Rhodinol natural RAI Ingredients - Brazil

Rosavertol Acetate
Citronellol A.J. Geranyl Acetate
Citronellol natural Puressence Wuersten Inc. - Switz. Geranyl Pure
Citronellyle Acetate
Citronellyle Acetate natural Boise De Rose Oil Rose Acetol
Citronellyle Butyrate
Citronellyle Caproate Geranium Oil Givaudan Fragrance Corp.
Citronellyle Phenyl Acette
Citronellyle Propionate Palmarosa Oil Geranitrile T
Citronellyle Propionate natural Geranium Givco 222
Citronellyle Tiglate Rose Oil Geranodyle
Citronellyle Valerate Geranyl Acetone
Rose Concrete
Geraniol BJ Honeyrose Givco 219
Geraniol natural Rose Abs.
Geraniol Prime Methyl Tuberate Pure
Geraniol Pur Quality Analyis Ltd. - U.K.
Geraniol Special 98 % AT Rose Givco 217
Geranyle Acetate natural Geranium Oil - Egypt Rose Oxide Racemic
Geranyle Acetate Prime
Geranyle Acetate Pure Palma Rosa Oil - India Raj Aromatics Aroma Corp. - India
Geranyle Benzoate Pure
Geranyle Butyrate Fine Rose Oil - Russia Geranium Oil E
Geranyle Butyrate natural Rose ( Otto ) Oil CO 2 - England, Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chinese
Geranyle Caprylate Morocco
Geranyle Methyl Ether Rose ( Otto ) Oil - Turkey Rhodia Organics - France
Geranyle Phenyl Acetate
Geranyle Propionae ABSOLUTES Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Geranyle Propionate natural
Geranyle Valerate Rose Abs. - Egupt Rosilial
Rosilial Plus
Nerol Tuberose Abs. - India Rosalyptus
Nerol natural Rose Oxide ( High CIS )
Neryle Acetate SPECIALTY OILS
Neryl Acetate natural Robertet SA - France
Neryle Propionate Evening Primerose Oil 10 % GLA
Boise De Rose Essence
Phenyl Ethyle Acetate Rose Hip Seed Oil Bois De Rose Terpeneless Oil
Phenyl Ethyle Cinnamate
Phenyl Ethyle Butyrate FLORAL WATERS Geranium Abs.
Phenyl Ethyle Propionate Geranium Oil
Phenyl Ethyle Tiglate Rose Water Distilled
Rose Water Triple Distilled Rose De Mai Abs.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose
Rose Moroccan Abs.
Rose Moroccan Oil
Rose Oil Turkey Comemrcial
Rose Otto Turque Oil
Rose Turkey Abs.
Rose Turque Essence
Tubereuse Abs.
Tubereuse 181
Rosetta Enterprises, LLC - USA
Boise De Rose Brazil FCC
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chinese,
Egyptian
Palmarosa FCC
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenoxy Ethyl Propionate
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl 2 - Methyl Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
SAT Group - India
Geranium Oil
SIPA A. Ch. Berthier - France
Acetate de Citronellyle
Acetate de Geranyle
Acetate de Neryle
Butyrate de Citronnellyle
Butyrate de Geranyle
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
Formiate de Citronnnellyle
Formiate de Geranyle
Geraniol Pure 97 %
Nerol
SRS Aromatics Ltd. - U.K.
Geranium Oil Bourbon Type 1730
Geranium Oil Egyptian
Geranox Base 4524 P
Rose Recobalm 127 P/A
Rose De Mai Absolue Recobase I
Tuberose Super 4478 P
Tuberose Synthetic 4477 P
Rose Oil Turkey A
Rose Oil Turkey 1282
Rose RC 2165
ABSOLUTES
Rose Abs.
Rose Abs. Turkey A
Rose Abs. Turkey 3219
Rose Abs. Egyptian
Rose Abs. Morocco 3223
Tuberose Abs. India A
EXTRACTS
Rose Petals Extract
AROMA CHEMICALS
Citronellol 96 FCC
Citronellol A.J.
Citronellol C
Citronellol CJ FCC
Citronellol Prime
393
Citronellol RH
Citronellol Select
Citronellol Terpenes
Citronellyl 2 Methyl Butyrate
Citronellyl Acetate Extra
Citronellyl Butyrate
Citronellyl Crotonate
Citronellyl Iso Valerate
Citronellyl Nitrile
Citronellyl Propionate
Citronellyl Senecioate
Citronellyl Valerate
Di Methyl Octanol P & F
Geraniol 60
Geraniol 90
Geraniol BJ
Geraniol Fine
Geraniol Prime
Geraniol Special
Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
Geranyl Acetate Extra
Geranyl Acetate Prime
Geranyl Butyrate
Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Geranyl Nitrile
Geranyl Tiglate
Nerol BJ
Neryl Acetate
Neryl Butyrate
Neryl Iso Butyrate
Neryl Propionate
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Caprylate
Phenyl Ethyl Crotonate
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate
Phenyl Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate
 Glen O. Brechbill

Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate AROMA CHEMICALS Citronellyl Nitrile

Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Cyclorose
Phenyl Ethyl Senecioate Rose Crystals
Phenyl Ethyl Valerate Geraniol
ATTARS INDIAN SPECIALTY Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
Rhodinol Geranium Extra
Rhodinyl Acetate G FCC Rose G - 1 Geranium
Rosalin ( Rose Acetate ) Rose G - 11 Geranyl Formate
Rose Nitrile Rose Oil Natural ( 99.2 % ) Geranyl Nitrile
Rose Water Geranyl Propionate
Sarcom Inc. - USA
Sensient Essential Oils - Germany Nerol Super
Geranium - China, Egypt
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, China Rhodinol
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Rose Crystals
Palmarosa Oil - India Rose De Mai
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate 97 % China Rose Oxide
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 99 % China Rose Oil - Bulgaria, Turkey
Rosewood Oil - Brazil 85 % min. Sigma Aldrich - USA
Rosalin China
Shambhala Herbal - Nepal Boise De Rose
Science Lab - USA
Palmarosa Oil Geranium Bourbon
Boise de Rose Oil FCC
Shanghai M & U Ltd - China Rose Crystals > 97 %
Geranium Oil Algerian FCC Rose Oil, Turkish
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chinese Geranium Oil
Silvestris & Szilas Ltd. - Hungary
Rose Hip Oil Refined NATURAL AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Rose Oil Artificial Geranium Oil
Rose Oil Artificial NF Geranyl Formate
Rose Oil Turkish Geranyl Propionate Rose Oil
Rose Oil Turkish FCC
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Som Santi House - India
Seema International - India
Shreeji Aroma - India Geranium Oil - Nat.
Evening Primrose Oil
Palmarosa Palmrosa Oil - Nat
Geranium Oil
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Some Extracts - India
Palmarosa Oil
Citronellol Geranium Oil nat.
Rose Oil G - II 100 Citronellyl Acetate
Rose Oil natural 101 Citronellyl Formate Jamrosa Oil nat.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose
Palmrosa Oil nat.
INDIGENOUS AROMA CHEMICALS
Geraniol Palm ( HY ) 95 %
Geranyl Acetate Palm ( HY ) 95 % Citronellyl Acetate Extra 95 %
Sovimpex - France
Bois De Roses Bresil
Geranium - Chine, Egypte
Palmrosa Oil - Inde
Rose - Bulgare
Rose - Maroc
ABSOLUES / CONCRETES
Rose
Tubereuse
AROMATIQUES DE SYNTHESE
Citronellol
Geranyle Nitryle
Rosaline
Spectrum Chemicals - USA
Boise de Rose Oil FCC
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chinese
Palmarosa Oil
Rose Hip Oil Refined
Rose Oil Artificial
Rose Oil Turkish
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
Sundial Fragrances & Flavors - USA ABSOLUTES
Citronellol 80
Citronellol Prime
Citronellol AJ FCC
Citronellyl Nitrile 92 %
Geraniol 60 %
Geraniol 70 (BJ) FCC
Geraniol 80 %
Geraniol 90 %
Geraniol Fine FCC
Geranyl Nitrile 91 %
Geranyl & Neryl
Geranyl Acetate 60 % FCC
Geranyl Acetate Extra 98 % FCC
Geranyl Acetate Prime 80 %
Nerol 50 %
Nerol 70 %
Nerol 80 %
Neryl Acetate 45 %
Phenyl Ethyl Acette FCC
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol USP/FCC
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate FCC
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate FCC
Phenyl Ethyl 2 - Methyl Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Sunrose Aromatics - USA
Geranium, Bourbon (O)
Geranium, E. Yunnan, China
Geranium, India (WC)
Palmarosa India (C)
Rose Otto - 10 % in Jojoba
Rose Otto, Bulgaria
395
Rose Abs., Bulgaria
Rose Abs., Morocco
ORGANIC ESSENTIAL OILS
Geranium, Bourbon ( O )
WILDCRAFED ESSENTIAL OILS
Geranium India ( WC )
Rosalina ( WC )
RARE & EXOTIC
Rose Absolute, Bulgaria
Rose Absolute, Morocco
Rose Attar
Rose Otto - 10 % in Jojoba
Rose Otto, Bulgaria
Single Notes 10 % Dilution
Rose Otto - 10 % in Jojoba
Symrise GmbH - Germany
Citronellyl Formate
Geranyl Tiglate
Iso Damascon
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate - Crystals
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
Phenyl Propyl Alcohol
Rholiate
Rosaphen

Synaco Group - Belgium
Geranium Oil - China, Egypt
Palmarosa Oil
Rosewood Oil
Synarome - France
Bulgaflor
Fleur De Rose
AROMATIC CHEMICALS NATURAL
Corps Roses
Geraniol Palmarosa
Iso Butyrate De Phenyl Ethyle
Phenylacetate D’Iso Butyle
Phenylacetate De Geranyle
Phenylacetate De Phenyl Ethyle
Tadimety Aromatics Pvt Ltd. - India Taytonn Pte Ltd. - Singapore
Citronellyl Acetate
Citronellyl Butyrate
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate
Di Methyl Octanyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate DP
Geranyl Acetate SP
Geranyl Formate DP
Geranyl Formate SP
Neryl Acetate SP
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
Glen O. Brechbill
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate AROMA & FINE CHEMICALS
Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Formate Citronellol Fractions - Geosmin
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Rosone
Rose Crystals Ex Benzaldehyde
Taiwan Fine Chemicals
Takasago International Corp. - Japan
Citronellol
Citronellol Extra
l-Citronellyl Acetate Geraniol
l-Citronellyl Formate
l-Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Militiz Aromatics
l-Citronellyl n-Butyrate
l-Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Geranyl Tiglate
l-Citronellyl Tiglate
Toyotama
Geraniol Ex Citronella
Geraniol Extra Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 99 %
Geranyl Acetate Extra
Thakker Group - India
Nerol Extra
Neryl Acetate AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Tetrahydro Geraniol Alpha Damascone - Armor
Geranyl Tiglate - Symrise
IFF - USA Phenyl Propyl Alcohol - Symrise
Citronellol 700 Th. Gyer Gmbh - Germany
Citronellol 750
Citronellol 950 SPECIALTIES
Geraniol 5020 Citronellylbutyrate
Geraniol 600 Citronellylformate
Geraniol 7030 Citronellylisobutyrate
Geraniol 980 Citronellylpropionate
Geranyl Acetate Pure
Geranylbutyrate
Nerol Geranylisobutyrate
Neryl Acetate
Rose Oxide D
Rose Oxide inactive
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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose
Rose Oxide inactive high cis
Rose Oxide L
AROMA CHEMICALS
Citronellyltiglate
Geranyltiglate
Rosaphen
Treatt USA Inc. - USA
Bois De Rose Oil min. 85 %
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chinese,
Egyptian
Palmarosa Oil
Rose Otto Oil
Rosewood Oil
NATURAL CHEMICALS
Geraniol Finest Ex Citronella
Geraniol Standard Ex Citronella
Neryl Geranyl Acetate
Neryl Geranyl Acetate Extra
RECTIFIED OILS
Rhodinol Ex Geranium Oil
( saponified )
Trisenx, Inc. - USA
Geraniol ( 980 Pure )
Geranium ( Chinese )
Geranyl Acetate ( Special Coeur )
Geranyl Nitrile ( Corps M227 )
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
LIBRARY OF FINE CHEMICALS
Alpha Damascone
Beta Damascone
Citronellol ( 950 Pure )
Citronellyl Acetate
Damascenone ( Firm )
Geraniol ( 980 Pure )
Geranium ( Chinese )
Geranyl Acetate ( Special Coeur )
Geranyl Nitrile ( Corps M 227 )
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Rosalva
Rose Oxyde ( Inactive )
Rose ( 752 P99 )
ESTERS
Citronellyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate ( Special Coeur )
KETONES
Alpha Damascone
Beta Damascone
Damascenone ( Firm )
Geraniol ( 980 Pure )
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
397
U.K. Aromatic & Chemicals - India
CITRAL BASED PRODUCTS
Citronellyl Acetate
Citronellyl Formate
Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Formate
PHENYL ACETIC ACID PRODUCTS
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Uhe Company, Inc. - USA
Boise De Rose Brazil
Palmarosa
Ultra International Limited - India
Geranium
Palmarosa
Rose
NATURAL RECONSTRUCTION OILS
Geranium
Geranium 204
Gernaium B - 1265
Geranium Bourbon
Gernaium/AM
Rose Istambuli
 Glen O. Brechbill
NATURAL ABSOLUTES/CONCRETES Gernaiol 980
Geranyl Acetate A
Rose Absolute Geranyl Acetate Pure
Rose Concrete
Rosalva
Tuberose Absolute Rosamusk
Tuberose Concrete
Synarome - France
Ungerer & Company - USA
Rose 1892
Boise de Rose Brazil FCC
Rose Di Hydroxyde
Geranium - Bourbon, Chinese,
Egyptian AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Palmarosa FCC Benzophenone crystal
Ventos, Ernesto S.A. - Spain Citronellol ( ‘L )
Citronellol 700 98 TA - IFF
Geranium Oil - Bourbon, Chinese, Citronellol 950 - IFF
Egypt Citronellol - BASF
Citronellyl Acetate A - IFF
Rose Oil - Bulgaria Citronellyl Acetate - BASF
Rosewood Oil Citronellyl Butyrate
Citronellyl Formate
NATURAL AROMATICS Citronellyl Iso Butyrate
Citronellyl Nitrile
Geraniol ( Ex - Citronella ) Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate
Geraniol - Synarome Citronellyl Propionate
Citronellyl Tiglate
Firmenich - Switz.
Damascenone - Firmenich
Damascenone Damascenone Total - Firmenich
Damascenone Total Damascone Beta
Damascone Delta - IFF
IFF - USA
Geraldehyde - IFF
Citronellol 700 98 TA Gernaiol 5020 - IFF
Citronellol 950 Geraniol 60 - BASF
Citronellyl Acetate A Geraniol 600 - IFF
Geraniol 7030 - IFF
Geraniol 5020 Geraniol 980 - IFF
Gernaiol 600 Geraniol BASF
Geraniol 7030 Geranyl Acetate A - IFF
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Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF
Geranyl Acetone
Geranyl Butyrate
Geranyl Ethyl Ether - IFF
Geranyl Formate
Geranyl Hexanoate
Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Geranyl Iso Valerate
Geranyl Nitrile
Geranyl Phenyl Acette
Geranyl Propionate
Geranyl Tiglate
Nerol 900 - IFF
Nerol, Pure
Neryl Acetate - IFF
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate - IFF
Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Hexanoate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate
Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether
Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ethyl Carbinol
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate - IFF
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate
Rosalin
Rosalva - IFF
Rosamusk - IFF
Rose Di Hydroxyde - Synarome
Rose Oxide 70:30
Rose Oxide 90:11 High Cis
Roseate - IFF
Venus Enterprises Ltd. - UK
Geranium Oil
Palmarosa Oil
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose Otto Oil W & W Australia Ltd. - Australia Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Rosewood Oil Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate
Geranium Oil Phenyl Ethyl Isobutyrate
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate
Citronellol
Citronellyl Acetate Citronellol Wambesco Gmbh - Denmark

Geraniol Geranyl Acetate Bulgarian Rose Oil

Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate ( Natural ) Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Geranyl Nitrate Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Nerol Rosalin ( Rose Acetate )
Rosalin Walsh, John D., Co., Inc. - USA
Rosetone
Rose Oxide Geranium Oil Egyptian
Vesselino Trading Co. - Bulgaria Rose Oil
Rosa Damascenia auct. non Miller ABSOLUTES
FLORAL WATERS Rose Abs.
Rosa Damascenia Auct. non Miller AROMATIC CHEMICALS & NATURALS
WATER CONCENTRATES Citronellol
Citronellyl Acetate Pure
Geranium Sanguineum L. Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Nitrile
Rosa Damascena Auct. non Miller Citronellyl Propionate
CONCRETES Di Methyl Octanol
Rosa Damascena Auct. non Miller Geraniol
Geraniol Coeur, FCC
ABSOLUTES Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Nitrile
Rosa Damascena Auct. non Miller
Nerol
Vigon International, Inc. - USA
Peomosa
Boise De Rose Oil Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Geranium Oil
Rose Aleppo Oil
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Citronellol ex Citronella Oil
Citronellol ex Eucalyptus Oil
Citronellol 98 %
Citronellyl Acetate
Citronellyl Butyrate
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate
Citronellyl Nitrile
Citronellyl Propionate
Di Methyl Octanol
Geraniol “C” Extra ex Citronella
Geraniol ex Palmarosa
Geraniol 98 %
Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Butyrate
Geranyl Formate
Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Geranyl Iso Valerate
Geranyl Nitrile
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
Geranyl Propionate
Nerol Special FCC
Nerol Synthetic 95 %
Phenyl Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate

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Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Hexanoate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Valerate

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Rose Notes

Adoxal Sweet floral waxy rosy referred to as ozone like.

Alcohol C - 8 Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy and sweet odor.

Alcohol C - 9 Powerful oily floral fresh petal like, dilution - rosy.

Alcohol C - 11 Lenic Fresh rather fatty odor, citrusy waxy rosy petal like note.

Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor.

Alpha Damascone Intensely fruity reminiscent of plums and roses.

Benzophenone Powdery geranium rose like.

Beta Damascone Fruity apple rose like odor.

Bois De Rose Essence Slightly rose like with a sweet undertone.

Bois De Rose Oil Floral odor reminiscent of rose orange mignoette.

Bois De Rose Syn AB2034 Excellent substitute for bois de rose oil.

Bois De Rose Terpeneless Oil Floral and reminiscent of rose orange and mignonette.

Citronellol BRI Fresh, clean floral rosy odor.

Citronellol Oil Coeur Fresh, rosy, floral rosy.

Citronellol Oil Extra Purer grade, fresher rosy.

Citronellol 700 Clean fresh rose, citronellol 70%, Geraniol 7%, Nerol 18%, D M Octanol 5%.

Citronellol 700 98TA Clean, fresh, rose.

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Citronellol 750 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 73%.

Citronellol 80 Intermediate Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 83.5%.

Citronellol 850 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 86%.

Citronellol 850 Clean fresh rose, citronellol 86%, geraniol & nerol 12%.

Citronellol 950 Clean rose like, citronellol 95%, geraniol and nerol 4 %.

Citronellol Last Fraction Rosy, not as sweet as a typical fresh floral rose.

Citronellyl Acetate Fresh, rosy, fruity odor reminiscent of geranium oil.

Citronellyl Acetate A Sweet fruity geranium rose citronellyl acetate 85%, neryl acetate 5%.

Citronellyl Acetate BRI Fresh, rosy, fruity odor

Citronellyl Acetate Pure Sweet, fruity rose like, citronellyl acetate 95%, neryl acetate 5%.

Citronellyl Anthranilate Rosy, fruity odor, extremely long lasting.

Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor.

Citronellyl N Butyrate Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal like.

Citronellyl Formate Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light reminiscent of geranium rose.

Citronellyl Formate Natural Sweet citrus floral honey.

Citronellyl Lactone D Tenacious, spicy, rose absolute character.

Citronellyl Methyl Acetal A little known citrus note very effective natural note to lemon.

Citronellyl Nitrile A green rose like scent almost reminiscent of citralva.

Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet herbaceous rosy, heavy and reminiscent of rose petals.

Citronellyl Propionate Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor.

Citronellyl Tiglate Leafy, rosy geranium note useful in geranium, rose petal bases.

Citronellyl Valerate Rosy, herbaceous honey like aroma.

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Damas Rose FM1248 Is very damascone rose directed.

Damascenia Rich sweet deep floral rose.

Damascenia Rosa Abs. Rich warm spicy floral and very deep rose odor, honey tones.

Damascenia Rosa Concrete Extremely rich deep and sweet floral truly reminiscent pink rose.

Damascenia 185 SA Very powerful warm fresh top note of rose otto.

Damascenone A powerful floral fruity note, very natural rose plum like.

Damascone Beta Powerful, fruity floral note reminiscent of blackcurrant, plum, rose, dil.

Delta Damascone A hybrid floral rose compound.

Di Butyl Sulfide Green, violet leaf, rose geranium character.

Di Hydro Carvyl Acetate Floral with rose, and cuminsed background, useful in floral accords.

Di Methyl Octanol Waxy dry rosy odor.

Di Phenyl Oxide Harsh floral green, metallic geranium rose type.

Dorina S A Floral rose specialty base extremely fresh and floral.

Ethyl Ortho Methoxy Benzoate Ylang tuberose, floral complex with raspberry and phenolic nuiance.

Farnesyl Acetate Faint, green floral rosy odor use in rose apple and herbal accords.

Florane Powerful, green crrushed petals rose like.

Florex A deep not sweet floral rose fragrance.

Geraniofix AB751 Sweet green geranium rose, best used in 10% dilution.

Geraniol Mild, and sweet floral rose.

Geraniol Coeur Floral, rose oily and green.

Geraniol Extra Sweet floral rose coeur grade.

Geraniol For Soap AB2015 Economical sweet rose base in lieu of geraniol last several days.

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Geraniol 5020 Blend of geraniol 52%, nerol 25%, citronellol 20%.

Geraniol 60 Sweet floral rose.

Geraniol 600 Fresh rose petal, geraniol 60%, nerol 25%.

Geraniol 7030 Sweet fresh rose, geraniol 71%, nerol 19%.

Geraniol 8020 Sweet fresh rose with a citrus note, geraniol 81%, nerol 18%.

Geraniol 90 Mild and sweet floral rose.

Geraniol 980 Dry, rose petal, geraniol 97%.

Geraniol NC Floral, spicy note reminiscent of rose & palmarosa with carnation tone.

Geraniol N Supra Typical rosy mild, reminiscent of palmarosa oil

Geraniol RG Rose alcohols mix with citrus, verbana notes of nerol, dewy.

Geraniol WT Floral rose note with fresh verbena nuances.

Geraniol X Palmarosa Oil Sweet and floral rose like.

Geranium Absolute Intense and powerful somewhat leafy earthy but soft pleasant.

Geranium Algerian Lighter more rosy leafy.

Geranium Augaflor 9 A powerful rose like odour of Bourbon with a high degree of tenacity.

Geranium Bourbon Green leafy rosy strong.

Geranium Bourbon Oliffac An economical simulation of the natural oil for fine fragrances.

Geranium Bourbon Super A low priced apporach to geranium oil.

Geranium Chinese Natural source is China with a fine herbaceous rose like fragrance.

Geranium Concrete A delightful earthy herbaceous somewhat rosy foilage green like odor.

Geranium Egyptian Floral geranium rose blended from different batches.

Geranium Moroccan Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor.

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Geranium Oil Has a full leaf like rose odor.

Geranium Oil Syn ABQ 5629 Excellent substitute, interesting fruity and rosy nuances.

Geranium 222 Powerful green, leafy rosy with a fruiy minty undertone, rich.

Geranodyle Is a complex mixture with a fresh geranium odour.

Geranyl Acetate Sweet fruity floral rosy.

Geranyl Acetate Extra The finest sweet fruity floral rosy material available at low cost.

Geranyl Acetate Pure Sweet, fruity and rose, geranyl acetate 98%.

Geranyl Acetone Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green.

Geranyl Anthranilate Heavy sweet floral rose.

Geranyl Benzoate Faint rosy, very tenacious mildly floral.

Geranyl N Butyrate Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy odor.

Geranyl Caproate Fruity geranium rose like.

Geranyl Formate Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor.

Geranyl Iso Butyrate Sweeter than n butyrate.

Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Soft floral honey rose like.

Geranyl Propionate Sweet fruity rose warm.

Geranyl Tiglate Quite pleasant sweet herbaceous geranium like fragrance.

Iso Amyl Geranate Rosy, lemon honey character.

Iso Butyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful leafy rosy musky fragrance.

Iso Damascone A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex.

Iso Rose An isomeric rose floral compound.

Lorena Has a fresh odor of rose that recalls tang of the sea.

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Meranol Dry rose petal.

Methyl Nonyl Ketone Fruity rosy orange like.

Methyl Tuberate Floral most likely tuberose, rose like material not sweet.

Neo Rose Otto A very high quality rose otto replacement at a lower cost.

Nerol Sweet rosy refreshing wet seashore like.

Nerol A Sweet rosy refreshing.

Nerol BG A good general purpose rose verbena quality with a warm spicy.

Nerol Coeur Moderately priced lemon verbena note dominating the rosy.

Nerol 800 Sweet fresh citrusy rose.

Nerol 850 Sweet citrusy, rose and fresh.

Nerol G A powerful refreshing, clean lemon rose odor.

Nerol 900 Sweet floral rose fresh citrus like.

Nerol O M Earthy, musty, palmarosa notes covering the verbena character.

Nerol Petals Sweet rosy leafy refreshing.

Nerol Regular A green note blends with the rose verbena tones in this grade.

Nerol Special A fresh sea shore like floral rose.

Neryl Acetate Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose.

Neryl Butyrate Green waxy oily and fatty.

Neryl Formate Rosy, herbaceous green character.

Neryl Geranyl Acetate Citrus sweet floral.

Neryl Iso Butyrate Rosy, berry character.

Neryl Iso Valerate Rich, clary sage of bergamot odor in oriental, oakmoss.

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Neryl Propionate Fruity, jam like odor used in citrus and floral fragrances.

Octanol 2 A floral rosy fresh odor.

Octanol Nitrile 10 B - 2216 A rosy floral odor.

Palmarosa Oil Sweet floral rosy odor.

Palmarosa Oil Brazil Palmarosa has a sweet, floral, rosy scent.

Palmarosa Oil Guatemala A pale yellow or olive colored liquid with a sweet floral rosy odor.

Palmarosa India Palmarosa oil has a sweet floral with a hint of rose.

Patinol AB286 Is more geranium rosy in character then geranofix.

Peomosa Floral, rose mimosa like with a special light dry out.

Peonile With its geranium-rosy character provides interesting floral effects.

Phenirat Sweet, fruity, floral like rose somewhat honey.

Phenoxanal Fresh floral rose.

Phenoxy Ethanol Mild rosy, but also metallic.

Phenoxy Ethyl Alcohol Mild honey rose odor.

Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Sweet fruity rosy floral.

Phenyl Ethyl Acetal Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Mild and warm rose honey like odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Extra Fine, smooth, more powerful quality lasts a few days.

Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate Very faint floral balsamic odor reminiscent of dry rose petals.

Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate Very faint and sweet pleasant balsamic odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.

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Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity tea rose type.

Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Heavy and very sweet floral balsamic odor, musky honey like.

Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate Floral possibly faintly rosy pratically no odor.

Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.

Pivane 22 A sweet rosy floral fragrance.

Pivarose Pleasant, tea rose.

Polarose Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor.

Racinia A dry floral rose complex.

Rhodinol Coeur Geranium rose.

Rhodinol X Citronella Naturally sweet rosy floral.

Rhodinol X Geranium Oil Floral, rose sweet waxy and powdery.

Rhodinyl Acetate Sweet, light refreshing rose muguet, green leafy notes.

Rhodinyl N Butyrate Intensely sweet mellow fruity deep rosy.

Rhodinyl Formate Fresh leafy green delicate rosy.

Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet, very deep soft honey like rose.

Rhodinyl Propionate Rich and sweet fruity floral rose geranium type.

Rhodinyl Salicylate Very weak sweet rosy powdery balsamic odor.

Rhodinyl Valerate Heavy fruity, slight earthy green, but also sweet odor.

Rosacene A nice light delicate floral rose compound not overly sweet.

Rosalva Powerful fatty oily, waxy rose odor.

Rosamusk Unusual combination of rose with musky modifications.

Rose Abs. Morocco Extremely fresh and sweet floral rose odor.

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Rose Abs. Oliffac An inexpensive substitute of natural absolutes from rose petals.

Rose Abs. Turkey A tenacious diffusive sweet floral, truly captures fresh flower.

Rose AB380D Rose absolute, slightly herbal animalic tones.

Rose Acetate Mild floral rosy.

Rosania FM1018 Diffusive natural green geranium rose.

Roseate Delicate moist rose petal tone with gentle power.

Rose Bulgare Oil Intensely rose like, and sweet.

Rose Concrete Morocco Has a warm deep floral, slight woody sweet with honey like notes odor.

Rose Crystals Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor.

Rose De Mai Rich, sweet, deep rosy very tenacious odor with honey notes.

Rose De Mai Abs. Rich and sweet deep rosy tenacious odor.

Rose De Mai Abs. French Has a rich sweet, deep rosy very tenacious odor.

Rose Essence 193 A very strong, but yet sweet floral rosy fresh odor.

Rose Essence Bulgare A very diffusive vivacious rose odor, slightly sweet and floral.

Rose Geranium Augaflor 19 A wonderfully rich, warm rosey odour reminiscent of a summer day.

Rose Givco 217 Warm rosy resembling natural Turkish oil quite delightful.

Roseessence 17.600B Full, rich, strong as natural rose otto bulgarian.

Rose Moroccan Abs. Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose odor.

Rose Moroccan Oil Fragrant rose and characteristic of the flower.

Rose Nitrile A rich rose geranium woody note with excellent strength.

Rose Oil Moroccan Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose.

Rose Oil Moroccan Select The finest moroccan rose fragrance at an attractive cost.

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Rose Oil Otto Warm deep floral slightly spicy odor reminiscent of red roses.

Rose Oil Templar A typical sweet rose odor whose source is rooted in English lore.

Rose Oil Turkey Diffusive strong vibrant floral rose scent reminiscent of the rose.

Rose Oil Turkey Commercial An extremely floral typical rose odor, not intense or over powering.

Rose Oil Turkish Sweet floral rose.

Rose Orient Intensely rose like, mysterious diffusive, rounded and nice.

Rose Otto Augaflor A deep, warm, rich unmistakable rose odor.

Rose Otto Syn. Pour Savon A low cost simulation of rose otto for general purposes.

Rose Otto Turque Oil Sweet, intense floral rose.

Rose Oxide D Gives fresh herbal rose effects and rosy green nuances.

Rose Oxide Inactive A compound with an intensive note of roses.

Rose Oxide L Constituent of bulgarian attar of roses.

Rose Oxide R Reminiscent of rose geranium.

Rose Oxyde Green, very diffusive fresh note which resembles geranium oil.

Rose Oxyde Gauche Similar although sweeter, fresher and more diffusive.

Rosetal A Diffusive rose absolute type odor for use in floral based fragrances.

Rose Tenace Diffusive long lasting rose odor suggests otto of rose.

Rose Turkey Absolute Deep sweet rich rosy floral odor, souce Turkey.

Rose Turque Essence Fragrant rose characteristic.

Top Rose ABQ5644 The top note of bulgarian rose oil lasts a few weeks.

Trans De Cadro Beta Naphyl Floral rosy.

Trans 4 Decenal # 382 Floral rosy.

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Tuberanthia SA Tuberose.

Tuberose Abs. A heavy sweet almost nauseating floral odor of tuberose.

Tubereuse 181 A reconstitution of tuberose absolute, rich warm, sensual.

Tuberose Oliffac Sweet intense floral character of tuberose.

Tuberose Pomenade A heavy sweet almost overpowering tuberose odor.

Wardia A classic reproduction of rose de mai absolute, powerful.

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Rose # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rionyl 6 Irisone Bis

46 Coumarine Chine 5 Citronellol Prime
9 Vanilline 3 Undecatriene
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 1 Florantone T
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A 41 Geraniol
27 Musk R - 1 .1 Rose Bioabsolute
2 Amberfleur 4 Orange Flower Base
9 Benzyle Benzoate 2 Nutmeg Oil - India
3 Rose Crystals 9 Laurine
6 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
8 Sandalwood Oliffac .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
124 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Essence Abs.
4 Irotyl 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Aquanol 3 Parmanyl
24 Eugenol / Clove 6 9-Decen-1-OL
5 Geraniol 98 % 1 Vanilla Alcohol
41 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Petilyn
18 Lilial 3 Fleuramone
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .2 Acetate Geranyle 98 %
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1 Iris Beurre Oil
3 Methyl Dianthanol
51 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone 1,000
4 Lioral
2 Rose Oil Turkish
57 Benzyl Acetate FCC
8 Cassis Fragrance
.1 Alcohol C - 9
24 Musk SF
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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Rose # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberfleur 6 alpha - Ionone

46 Coumane 5 Citronellol Prime
9 Vanilline 3 Scennal
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 1 Florantone T
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A 41 Geraniol
27 Musk R - 1 .1 Rose Bioabsolute
2 Alpha Damascone 4 Orange Flower Base
9 Benzyl Alcohol 2 Nutmeg Oil - India
3 Rose Crystals 9 Hydroxycitronellol
6 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
8 Sandalwood Oliffac .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
117 Hydroxycitronellal .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Palmarosa 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Essence Abs.
4 Geraniol, Perfumery Grade 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Eugenyl Acetate
3 MelonOrg 3 Orris Oil
24 Eugenol / Clove 6 9-Decen-1-OL
5 Geraniol 98 % 1 Vanilla Alcohol
41 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Petilyn
18 Lilial 4 Fleuramone
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .2 Acetate Geranyle 98 %
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG ) 1 Iris Beurre Oil
3 Methyl Dianthanol
58 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone 1,000
4 Lioral
2 Rose Oil Turkish
57 Benzyl Acetate FCC
8 Cassis Fragrance
.1 Alcohol C - 9
24 Musk SF
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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Rose # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Ambrox D’L Coeur 6 Iris Beurre Oil

46 Coumarine Chine 5 Citronellol 99 %
9 Vanillin 3 Undecatriene
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 1 Petitgrain Bigarade
.1 Civet Powder # 1b 41 Geraniol 60 %
27 Musk T - Takasago .1 Rose Bioabsolute
2 Amberfleur 4 Orange Flower Base
9 Benzylalcohol FR 2 Nutmeg Oil - India
3 Rose Crystals 9 Laurine
6 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
8 Sandalwood Oliffac .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
94 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Essence Abs.
4 Iso Rose 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl Vanillin 2 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Meijiff 3 Parmanyl
24 Eugenol / Clove 6 9-Decen-1-OL
5 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa 1 Vanilla Alcohol
51 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Petilyn
18 Lilial 3 Fleuramone
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .2 Acetate Geranyle 98 %
310 Di Propylene Glicol 2 Iris Beurre Oil
3 Methyl Dianthanol
71 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone 1,000
4 Lioral
2 Rose Oil Bulgaria
57 Benzylacetate Nat.
8 Bois Amberene Forte
.1 Alcohol C - 10
24 Musk R - 1
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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Rose # 1d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rionyl 6 alpha - Ionone Extra

46 Coumarine Chine 5 Citronellol 95 %
9 Vanilline 3 Undecatriene
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 1 Florantone T
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A 41 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
27 Musk R - 1 .1 Rose Bioabsolute
2 Amberfleur 8 Orange Flower Base
9 Benzyle Benzoate 2 Nutmeg Oil - India
3 Rose Crystals 9 Roseiff
6 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
8 Sandalwood Oliffac .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
104 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Essence Abs.
4 Irotyl 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Aquanol 3 Parmanyl
24 Eugenol / Clove 2 9-Decen-1-OL
5 Geraniol 98 % 1 Vanilla Alcohol
41 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Scennal
18 Lilial 4 Myraldyl Acetate
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .2 Acetate Geranyle 98 %
310 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1 1 Iris Beurre Oil
3 Methyl Dianthanol
71 Rose for Soap Base
3 Bnezophenone 1,000
4 Lioral
2 Alpha Damascone
57 Damascone
8 Cassis Fragrance
.1 Alcohol C - 9
24 Musk Emeressence
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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Rose # 1e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rionyl 6 Ionone Alpha White Coeur

46 Coumarine Chine 5 Citronellol Prime
9 Vanilline 1 Undecatriene
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 1 Petitgrainol
.1 Civet Artificial # 1A 41 Geraniol
27 Musk R - 1 .1 Rose Bioabsolute
4 Rose Givco 213 4 Orange Flower Base
9 Benzyle Benzoate 2 Nutmeg Oil - India
3 Rose Crystals 9 Laurine
6 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
8 Sandalwood Oliffac .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
104 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Essence Abs.
4 Damascenone 6 Vert de Cassis Givco
7 Vanilys 2 Eugenyl Acetate
3 Aquanol 3 Fleur de Rose - Synarome - France
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 6 9-Decen-1-OL
5 Geraniol 98 % 1 Vanilla Alcohol
41 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Petilyn
18 Lyrame 2 Fleuramone
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .2 Geranyl Acetate Extra
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
3 Isoeugenol ( Carnation )
74 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone 1,000
4 Lioral
2 Rose Oil Turkish
57 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
8 Bourgeons De Cassis
.1 Alcohol C - 9
24 Musk Clear
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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Rose # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Methyl Cedryl Ketone Coeur 3 Citronellol Pure

5 Ambrox DL 9 Orange Blossom Base
2 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Sandela 1 Rose Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 alpha Ionone 70
7 Vanillin 9 Wardia Substitute
49 Globanone 6 Cassifix
3 Amborate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Galaxolide 50 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
4 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
2 Beta Damascone 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
51 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Cananga Odorata
3 Sandiff 5 Hydroxy Citronellal dma
102 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Acetate de Neryle
26 Eugenol 100 % 3 Wardia
1 Iso Jasmone 25 Linalol 98 %
5 Neo Galbanum Oil 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lilial 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Myraldyl Acetate 3 Jasilyn
49 Rose Substitute 2 Phyllos
5 Hedione 6 Orange Oil Florida ( Cold Pressed )
50 Ionone Intermediate Base
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3 1,000
2 Hedione
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 100 %
8 Mallow
1 Iso Rose
.1 Alcohol C - 10
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalyl Acetate

417

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Citronellol Pure

5 Ambrox DL 9 Orange Blossom Base
2 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Sandela 1 Rose Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 alpha Ionone 70
7 Vanillin 9 Wardia Substitute
29 Globanone 6 Cassifix
3 Amborate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
28 Galaxolide 50 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
4 Ethylvanillin 4 Bourgenal
2 Beta Damascone 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
51 MDJ Super .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Violiff
3 Sandalwood Oil New Caladonia 5 Hydroxy citronellaldimethylacetal
92 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Rose Abs. Morocco 3223
26 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Rhodinol
1 Iso Jasmone 25 Linalol 98 %
5 Neo Galbanum Oil 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lilial 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Myraldyl Acetate 3 Iso Jasmone
59 Rose Substitute 2 Phyllos
5 Hedione 6 Orange Oil Florida ( Cold Pressed )
50 Ionone Intermediate Base
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3 1,000
2 Hedione
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Bois de Rose Brazil
38 Geraniol 99 %
8 Lyrame Super
.1 Alcohol C - 10
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rose Damascenia

418

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Sandela 3 Citronellol Pure

5 Ambrox DL 9 Orange Blossom Base
2 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Iso E Super 1 Rose Oil ( Otto )
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 alpha Ionone 70
7 Vanillin 9 Wardia Substitute
49 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 6 Cassifix
3 Amborate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Galaxolide 50 8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
4 Ethyl Vanillin 6 Bourgenal
2 Alpha Damascone 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
51 Acetate Bencila .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Cananga Odorata
3 Sandiff 5 Hydroxy Ciol
90 Hydroxycitronellal A .1 Tuberose Abs.
23 Eugenol 100 % 3 Wardia
1 Iso Jasmone 25 Linalol 98 %
5 Neo Galbanum Oil 4 Neroli - Comores Island
6 Lilial 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Myraldyl Acetate 1 Geranium Rose Oil MF
74 Rose Base # 57 2 Phyllos
5 Hedione 6 Orange Oil Orpur - Lebanon ( G )
50 Ionone Intermediate Base
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3 1,000
2 Iso Rose
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 100 %
8 Rose Oil Std.
1 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
.1 Alcohol C - 09
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalyl Acetate

419

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 2d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Methyl Cedryl Ketone Coeur 3 Citronellol Pure

5 Ambrox DL 9 Orange Blossom Base
2 Rose Crystals .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Sandela 1 Rose Givco 75
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 alpha - Ionone
7 Vanillin 9 Wardia Substitute
49 Globanone 6 Cassifix
3 Amberlyn .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Galaxolide 50 10 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
3 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
2 Beta Damascone 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
51 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Damascenia 185
3 Sandalore 5 Rose Wood Oil
102 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Rose Bourbon Abs. - India
22 Eugenol 100 % 3 Wardia
1 Iso Jasmone 25 Linalol 98 %
5 Geraniol Special 4 Neroli Artessence - Biolandes
6 Lilial 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Myraldyl Acetate 3 Jasilyn
57 Rose For Soap Base 2 Palma Rosa Oil
5 Hedione 3 Bitter Orange Oil ( C.P. )
50 Ionone Intermediate Base
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Methyl Benzoate 1,000
2 Hedione
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol Fine FCC
8 Mallow
1 Iso Damascon
.1 Alcohol C - 10
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Iso Eugenol
7 Rose Otto Turque Oil
38 Linalyl Acetate Special

420

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 2e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Amyris Wood Oil 3 Citronellol Select

5 Ambrox DL 9 Orange Blossom Base
2 Patchouli Dark - Indonesia .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
12 Sandela 1 Rose Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 alpha Ionone 70
7 Vanillin 9 Wardia Substitute
49 Serenolide ( Musk ) 6 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Amborate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Galaxolide 50 8 Methyl Ionone
4 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Bourgenal
3 Beta Damascone 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
51 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Cananga Odorata
3 Osyrol 5 Hydroxycitronellol
81 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Undecavertol
1 Iso Jasmone 3 Wardia
5 Methyl Benzoate 25 Linalol 98 %
6 Lilial 4 Petitgrain Oil ( Orange Flower )
26 Iso Eugenol Replacement 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Myraldyl Acetate 3 Jasilyn
70 Rose Substitute 2 Phyllos
5 Hedione 6 Orange ( Sweet )
50 Iso Raldeine Substitute
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3 1,000
1 Methyl Octyl Ketone
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 980
8 Petilyn
1 Iso Rose
.1 Alcohol C - 10
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
38 Linalylacetate

421

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 9 Orange Blossom Substitute

10 Benzyl Alcohol 3 Nepalva
48 Coumarin Crystals .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 Iso Raldeine 70
19 Ethylene Brassylate ( Musk T ) 28 Galaxolide 50
8 Woodynol I .1 Orange Flower Water
27 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
6 Vanillin 64 Geraniol Pure
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Ylang Givco 225
3 Fleuramone 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
14 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
5 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Nerol
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Benzophenone 1 Floranton T
1 Rosaline 5 Wardia Substitute
1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Pomarose
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
28 Carnation Base 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
5 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 3 Geranyl Acetate ( Special Coeur )
32 Iso Raldeine Substitute 2 Bourgenal
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Iso Rose
1 Damascenone ( Firm ) 1 Farnesyl Acetate
2 Ethyl Vanillin 35 Linalyl Acetate
8 Geraniol ( 980 Pure ) .3 Cassis Oliffac
6 Rosaphen
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Rose Istambuli 1,000
.1 Rosalva
24 Linalol
5 Citronellol 950

422

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 9 Orange Blossom Substitute

10 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Nerol Petals
48 Coumarin Crystals .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 Iso Raldeine 70
19 ( Musk T ) - Takasago 28 Galaxolide 50
8 Woodynol I .1 Orange Flower Water
27 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
6 Vanillin 64 Rose Base # 73
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Ylang Givco 225
3 Methyl Octyl Ketone 4 Iso Eugenol
14 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
5 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Geraniol “C” Extra ex Citronella
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Benzophenone 1 Floranton T
1 Rosaline 3 Wardia Substitute
1 Anisyl Propanol 1 Pomarose
104 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Cyclogalbaniff
52 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
29 Carnation Base 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
5 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 3 Geranyl Acetate ( Special Coeur )
32 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 2 Bourgenal
29 Geraniol Pure 1 Iso Rose
1 Damascenone Total 2 Scennal
2 Ethyl Vanillin 35 Linalyl Acetate
8 Geraniol ( 980 Pure ) .3 Bourgenal
6 Geranium ( Chinese )
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Iso Rose 1,000
.1 Rosone
24 Linalol
5 Citronellol 950

423

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 9 Orange Blossom Substitute

10 Benzyl Alcohol 3 Nepalva
48 Coumarin Crystals .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 Iso Raldeine 70
19 Ethylene Brassylate ( Musk T ) 28 Galaxolide 50
8 Woodynol I .1 Orange Flower Water
27 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
6 Vanillin 24 Geraniol Coeur, FCC
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Ylang Givco 225
3 Fleuramone 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
14 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
5 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Nerol
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
40 Rose Damascenia Base 1 Verdantiol - Givaudan
2 Benzophenone 5 Wardia Substitute
1 Rosaline 1 Pomarose
1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Cassifix
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
28 Carnation Base 3 Geranyl Acetate ( Special Coeur )
5 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 2 Bulgarian Rose Oil
32 Iso Raldeine Substitute 1 Rosamusk - IFF
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Farnesyl Acetate
1 Rose Aleppo Oil 35 Linalyl Acetate
2 Ethyl Vanillin .3 Styralylacetate
8 Geraniol ( 980 Pure )
6 Rosaphen
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
2 Rosa Crystals
.1 Rosalva
24 Linalol
5 Citronellol 99 %

424

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 3d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Paste 9 Orange Blossom Substitute

10 Benzyl Alcohol 3 Cashmeran
48 Coumane .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 Iso Raldeine 70
19 Etilen Brassilato 28 Serenolide
8 Chandanone .1 Orange Flower Water
27 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
6 Vanillin 64 Geraniol Pure
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Ylang Givco 225
3 Fleuramone 4 Carnaline
14 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
5 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Geraniol Finest Ex Citronella
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Benzophenone 1 Aurantiol Pure
1 Rose Crystals 5 Wardia Substitute
1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Pomarose
94 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 MDJ Super 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Ionone Alpha Refined
28 Carnation Base 1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Nutmeg Oil East Indian 3 Geranyl Acetate ( Special Coeur )
32 Iso Raldeine Substitute 2 Bourgenal
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Nerol Synthetic 95 %
1 Damascenone ( Firm ) 1 Farnesyl Acetate
2 Ethyl Vanillin 36 Linalyl Acetate
38 Geraniol ( 980 Pure ) .3 Cassis Oliffac
6 Rosaphen
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 1,000
.1 Rosalva
24 Linalol 98 %
5 Citronellol Ex Palmarosa

425

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 3e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia 9 Orange Blossom Substitute

10 Benzyl Alcohol 3 Gardenia 1110
48 Coumarin Crystals .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 Ionone Alpha 60
19 Traseolide 23 Musk Ambrette Substitute
8 Woodynol I .1 Orange Flower Water
27 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
6 Vanillin 68 Geraniol Pure
5 Cashmeran 1 Ylang Givco 225
3 Geranium 204 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
4 Lyral 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
4 Methyl Benzoate .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Neryl Acetate NP
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Benzophenone 1 Floranton T
1 Rosaline 7 Wardia Substitute
1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Pomarose
104 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 Benzyl Acetate FCC 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Iris Beurre Oil
26 Carnation Base 1 Rhodinol Ex Geranium Oil
5 Coriander Oil 3 Geranyl Acetate ( Special Coeur )
32 Iso Raldeine Substitute 2 Bourgenal
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Iso Rose
1 Damascenone ( Firm ) 1 Farnesyl Acetate
2 Ethyl Vanillin 35 Linalyl Acetate
41 Geraniol 500 .3 Cassis Oliffac
6 Rose Attar
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Rose Otto, Bulgaria 1,000
.1 Rosalva
24 Linalool
5 Citronellol 950 - IFF

426

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Iso E Super .7 Poirinate

49 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 4 Aubepine
1 Civet Tincture .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 Apple Juice Givco 119
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 1 Nerol Synthetic 95 %
4 MCK 9 Orange Blossom Base
7 Vanillin 15 Wardia
2 Heliotropine 3 Roseiff
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
1 Thymol Crystals 2 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Lilial 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
17 Musk R - 1 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Methyl Di Hydri Iso Jasmonate 1 Tuberose Oliffac
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Meranol
1 Methyl Benzoate 4 Cassis Fragrance B
1 Folrosa Q 2 Rose Oil
88 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Citronellol 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Eugenol 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Mallow 2 Nutmeg Indonesia
56 Geraniol 970 .1 Leaf Alcohol
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Iso - Eugenol
22 Benzyl Acetate 1 Bourgenal
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 18 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Geralddehyde - IFF
5 Hydroxy Citronellal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique

427

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Bacdanol .7 Poirinate
49 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 4 Aubepine
1 Civet Tincture .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 Apple Juice Givco 119
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 1 Nerol Synthetic 95 %
4 MCK 9 Orange Blossom Base
7 Vanillin 15 Wardia
2 Heliotropine 3 Roseiff
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
1 Thymol Crystals 2 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Lily of the Valley Base 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
27 Geraniol 98 % 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 Methyl Di Hydri Iso Jasmonate 1 Tuberose Oliffac
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Meranol
1 Methyl Benzoate 4 Cassis Fragrance B
1 Folrosa Q 2 Rose Oil
78 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Citronellol 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Eugenol 1 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Mallow 2 Nutmeg Indonesia
56 Geraniol For Soap .1 Leaf Alcohol
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
25 Benzyl Acetate 1 Bourgenal
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 18 Linalylacetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Geralddehyde - IFF
5 Hydroxycitronellal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Pur

428

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Iso E Super .7 Poirinate

49 Coumane 4 Aubepine
1 Civet Tincture .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 Apple Oliffac
37 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Nerol Synthetic 95 %
4 Methyl Cedrylone 9 Orange Blossom Base
7 Vanillin 15 Wardia
2 Heliotropine 3 Geraniol Coeur FCC
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
1 Thymol Crystals 2 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Lilial 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
17 Musk Emeressence 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Benzyle Acetate Nat. 1 Methyl Tuberate
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Meranol
1 Methyl Benzoate 3 Cassis Fragrance B
1 Folrosa Q 2 Geranyl Acetate ( Special Coeur )
78 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Citronellol ex Eucalyptus Oil 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Eugenol 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Mallow 1 Iso - Eugenol
66 Geraniol 98 % .1 Leaf Alcohol
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 y - Irone
22 Benzyl Acetate 1 Vert de Cassis Givco
89 Iso Raldeine Substitute 16 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
12 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Geranium Rose Egyptian
5 Petilyn
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique

429

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 4d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Iso E Super .7 Poirinate

49 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 4 Aubepine
1 Civet .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 Apple Juice Givco 119
37 Galaxolide 50 DEP 1 Nerol Synthetic 95 %
4 MCK 11 Orange Blossom Base
7 Vanillin 15 Wardia
2 Heliotropine 3 Iso Damascon
44 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Petitgrain Oil
1 Cinnamon Leaf Oil 2 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Lilial 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
17 Musk R - 1 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
25 MDJ Super 1 Tuberose Oliffac
7 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Meranol
1 Methyl Benzoate 4 Cassis Fragrance B
1 Folrosa Q 2 Rose Oil
78 Hydroxycitronellal .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Citronellol 96 FCC 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Eugenol / Clove 3 Iso Amyl Geranate
7 Mallow 2 Nutmeg Indonesia
86 Geraniol 80 % .1 Leaf Alcohol
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Iso - Eugenol
22 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 Bourgenal
79 Ionone Intremediate Base 17 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
2 Geranium over Roses
5 Hydroxy Citronellal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol Synthetique

430

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 4e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Iso E Super .7 Perryfix “Creations Aromatiques “

49 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 4 Anisic Aldehyde
1 Civet Tincture .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 Apple Juice Givco 119
53 Galaxolide 50 DEP 1 Rose Bulgaria Oil
4 Koavonne 9 Orange Blossom Base
7 Vanillin 15 Wardia
2 Heliotropine 3 Rose Hip - Germany
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Aurantiol
1 Palma Rosa Oil 2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
8 Lilial 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Musk Clear 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Methyl Di Hydri Iso Jasmonate 1 Roseate
7 Vanilys - Pfw 1 Meranol
1 Methyl Benzoate 4 Cassis Fragrance B
1 Iso Rose 2 Acetate de Geranyle
68 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Citronellol - L 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Mallow 1 Nutmeg W.I.
76 Geraniol 970 .1 Leaf Acetal
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Rose Iran Single Distilled Oil
22 Hedione 1 Bourgenal
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 18 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasilyn
12 Irisone Bis 1,000
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Geranium Oil
5 Hydroxy Citronellal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalool

431

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Benzophenone 7 Orange Flor Deco

8 Amyrs Oil W.I. .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civet Tincture 20 % 6 Cassis Fragrance F
4 Heliotropine .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Geraniol 600
43 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
5 Anthea Sandla Coeur 2 Eugenyl Acetate
9 Vanillin 1 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Polarose 15 Tuberose Substitute
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 1 alpha - Ionone
11 Iris Beurre Oil 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Petilyn 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
42 Benzyl Acetate Pure 10 Orange Blossom Base
102 Muguet Base 4 Wardia
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
73 Geraniol 60 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
8 Hydroxycitronellol .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
1 Rosone 3 Nerol
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Iritone V
9 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
21 Eugenol 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
6 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Pomarose
4 Hidroxicitronelal 23 Linalyl Acetate
1 Oxide De Rosa 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Irisone Bis 1,000
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol 96 %
1 Jasmone
32 Linalol 98 %
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
21 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

432

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rosone 7 Orange Flor Deco

8 Amyrs Oil W.I. .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civet Tincture 20 % 6 Cassis Fragrance F
4 Heliotropine .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Crimson Glory Rose Abs.
43 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 3 Myraldyl Acetate
5 Anthea Sandla Coeur 2 Eugenyl Acetate
9 Vanillin 1 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Polarose 15 Tuberose Substitute
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 1 alpha - Ionone
9 Iris Beurre Oil 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Petilyn 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
39 Hedione 10 Orange Blossom Base
102 Muguet Base 4 Wardia
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
77 Geraniol 60 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
8 Hydroxycitronellol .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
1 Rosone 3 Nerol
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Iridales
9 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
21 Carnation Base 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
6 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Pomarose
4 Hydrofix R 23 Linalyl Acetate
1 Adoxal 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
315 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Irisone Bis 1,000
.1 Anisylalcohol
13 Citronellol 99 %
1 Rose Oil
32 Linalol 98 %
5 Meijiff
3 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
21 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

433

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Benzophenone 7 Orange Flor Deco

8 Sandalore .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civet Tincture 20 % 8 Cassis Fragrance F
4 Heliotropine .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Rose Morocco Abs.
43 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
5 Sandiff 2 Eugenyl Acetate
9 Vanillin 1 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Polarose 15 Tuberose Substitute
21 Salicylate de Benzyle 1 alpha - Ionone
11 Iris Beurre Oil 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Beta Damascone 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
42 Benzyl Acetate Pure 10 Orange Blossom Base
96 Muguet Base 1 Rosa
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
83 Geraniol 60 1 Jasilyn
8 Hydroxyciol .4 Vanilla Tincture 20 %
1 Rosone 3 Nerol
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Iritone V
9 Lyral 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
21 Eugenol 3 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
6 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Pomarose
4 Lioral 23 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rose Bulgare 1 The
.1 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar
310 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Irisone Bis 1,000
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol 99 %
1 Rose Oil Otto
33 Linalool Special
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Geraniol 98 %
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

434

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 5d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rosa Crystals 7 Orange Flor Deco

8 Amyrs Oil W.I. .2 Folione
.1 Civet Tincture 20 % 6 Vert de Cassis Givco
4 Heliotropine .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Rose Turkey Abs.
43 Muskylein 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
5 Javanol 2 Eugenyl Acetate
9 Vanillin 1 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Polarose 15 Tuberose Substitute
21 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Methyl Octyl Ketone
11 Iris Beurre Oil 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Petilyn 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
42 Benzyl Acetate Pure 10 Orange Blossom Base
90 Muguet Base 4 Wardia
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
83 Geraniol Prime 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
8 Hydroxycitronellol .4 Vamba
1 Rosone 3 Nerol
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Ionone Alpha 60
9 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Petitgrain Bigaradier
21 Eugenol 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
6 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Pomarose
4 Hidroxicitronelal 23 Linalyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Propionate 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 y - Irone 1,000
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol - High Purity
1 Nerol Petals
32 Linalol 98 %
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Geraniol 970
21 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

435

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 5e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Benzophenone 7 Orange Flor Deco

8 Sandalwood Oliffac .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civet Tincture 20 % 6 Cassis Fragrance F
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Geraniol 600
43 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
5 Anthea Sandla Coeur 2 Eugenyl Acetate
6 Vanillin 1 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Polarose 15 Tuberose Substitute
21 Benzyl Propionate 1 alpha - Ionone
11 Iris Beurre Oil 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Hysimal 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
42 Benzyl Acetate Pure 17 Orange Blossom Base
95 Muguet Base 4 Wardia
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Iso Rose
93 Geraniol 60 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
8 Hydroxycitronellol .4 Vanilla Alcohol
1 Rose Crystals 3 Nerol
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Iritone V
9 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Neroli Aurantium Oil
21 Eugenol 4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
6 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Pomarose
4 Hidroxicitronelal 23 Linalyl Acetate
1 Oxide De Rosa 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
297 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Irisone Bis 1,000
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol 96 %
1 Jasmone
32 Linalol 98 %
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil
21 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

436

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 6a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Vanilys - Pfw 5 Gardenia 1110

7 Vanillin 3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
48 Coumarina 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Alcohol C - 10
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
8 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Orange Oil Bitter W.I.
1 Y samber K 56 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
23 Hydroxycitronellal A .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Ribes Mercaptan
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
52 Benzyl Acetate Pur 34 Linalool Fine
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
4 Sandiff 1 Honey Rose Givco
98 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute 4 Geranium Oil pure
3 Lilial 2 Cassifix
2 Rosenol synthetic 1 Damascenonel
1 Isoeugenol ( Carnation ) 5 Aldeido Muguet
21 Serenolide .3 Wardia
5 Vanillinethyl 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
14 Hedione 3 Iso E Super
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1 Scennal
64 Ionone Intermediate Base 27 Linalyl Acetate
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 5 Nerol
1 Sandalore 7 Myraldyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Florantone T
3 y - Irone 4 Pomarose
6 Methyl Benzoate 2 Hydroxycitronellal Pure
12 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Acetate Geranyle Ex Citronelle
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic 1,000
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. - France

437

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 6b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Vanilys - Pfw 5 Gardenia 1110

7 Vanillin 3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
48 Musc Clear 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Alcohol C - 10
39 Traseolide 100 Base 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
8 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Orange Oil Bitter W.I.
1 Amberfleur 54 Geraniol BRI FCC
23 Hydroxycitronellal .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Ribes Mercaptan
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
52 MDJ Super 33 Linalool
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
4 Amyris Oil West Indies ( Sandal ) 1 Honey Rose Givco
98 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute 4 Geranium Oil pure
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 2 Cassis Fragrance
2 Rosalin 1 Damascenonel
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol 5 Aldeido Muguet
21 Serenolide .3 Wardia
5 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
14 Bois de Rose Oil - Brazil 3 Anthea Sandal Coeur
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1 Scennal
64 Ionone Intermediate Base 27 Linalyl Acetate
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 5 Roseiff
1 Sandalore 7 Super Cepionate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Florantone T
3 y - Irone 4 Pomarose
6 Methyl Benzoate 2 Hydroxycitronellal A
12 Citronellol 96
1 Geranyl Acetate
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic 1,000
17 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Violiff

438

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 6c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Vanilys - Pfw 5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol

7 Vanillin 3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
48 Coumarina 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Alcohol C - 10
29 Musk Xylene Substitute 5 Bois Amberene Forte
8 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Orange Oil Bitter W.I.
1 Y samber K 56 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
23 Hydroxycitronellal A .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Ribes Mercaptan
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
52 Benzyl Acetate Pur 34 Linalool Fine
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
4 Sandiff 1 Honey Rose Givco
88 Hydroxycitronellal Exteder 4 Geranium Oil pure
3 Lioral 2 Cassifix
2 Rosenol synthetic 1 Damascenia
1 Isoeugenol ( Carnation ) 5 Muguet Aldehyde
21 Serenolide .3 Wardia
5 Vanillinethyl 1 Azalea Oil - China
34 Geraniol Pur 3 Iso E Super
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1 Scennal
64 Rose Base # 60 27 Linalyl Acetate
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 5 Nerol
1 Sandalore 7 Myraldyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Florantone T
3 y - Irone 4 Pomarose
6 Methyl Benzoate 2 Hydroxycitronellal Pure
12 Citronellol 85/09 % FCC
1 Acetate Geranyle Ex Citronelle
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic 1,000
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Folione

439

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 6d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Rosone 5 Top Galbanum 18.326

7 Vanillin 3 Nerol 97
48 Coumarina 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Alcohol C - 10
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 5 Bois Amberene Forte
8 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Orange Oil Bitter W.I.
1 Woodynol II 56 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
23 Hydroxycitronellal Pur .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 Orange Flower Ether 1 Ribes Mercaptan
3 Cashmeran 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
52 Benzyl Acetate Pur 35 Linalool Fine
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
4 Sandiff 1 Honey Rose Givco
98 Hydroxycitronellol 6 Geranium Italie Orpur - Givaudan
3 Lilial 2 Cassifix
2 Amyl Salicylate 1 Fleur de Rose - Synrarome, Fr.
1 Eugenyl Acetate 5 Aldeido Muguet
21 Macrolide .3 Wardia
5 Vanillinethyl 1 Iris V
14 Hedione 3 Iso E Super
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1 Scennal
64 Ionone Intermediate Base 27 Linalyl Acetate
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 5 Meranol
1 Sandalore 7 Myraldyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Florantone T
3 y - Irone 1 Ionone
6 Methyl Benzoate 2 1 Hydroxycitronellal Pure
12 Citronellol S 95
1 Geranyl Acetate Extra
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic 1,000
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Tuberose Artessence - Biolandes

440

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 6e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Tincture 5 Gardenia 1110

7 Vanillin 3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
48 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Alcohol C - 10
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 5 Kir Base # 9741
8 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Orange Oil Bitter W.I.
1 Y samber K 56 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
23 Hydroxycitronellal .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 Nerolin Crystals 1 Ribes Mercaptan
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
52 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 34 Linalool Pur
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
4 Sandalore 1 Honey Rose Givco
98 Hydroxycitronellal 4 Geranium Oil Egyptian
3 Lilial 2 Cassifix
2 Rosenol synthetic 1 Damascenonel
1 Bisabolene 5 Lyrame Super
21 Givescone - Givaudan .3 Rose Essence Abs.
5 Vanillinethyl 1 Rhododendrum Oil - China
14 Hedione 3 Chandanone
22 Eugenol - Flexitrail 1 Scennal
64 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 27 Linalyl Acetate
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 5 Meranol
1 Sandalore 7 Myraldyl Acetate
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Orange Oil Bitter ( W.I. ) - Trinidad
3 y - Irone 4 Fleuramone
6 Methyl Benzoate 2 Hydroxycitronellal Pure
15 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Acetate Geranyle Ex Citronelle
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic 1,000
14 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Folione

441

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 7a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

2 Rosone .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.

4 Musk 50 ( DEP ) 5 Florantone T
9 Benzyl Benzoate 58 Geraniol Prime
.1 Exaltolide 29 Linalool
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 8 Orange Blossom Base
19 Benzyle Salicylate .1 Folione
16 Osyrol 5 Phenylethylalcohol
5 Musk Clear 2 Benzyl Acetate
1 Rose Crystals .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Heliotropine 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
11 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Nerol
69 Benzylacetate 1 Cassis Fragrance B
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 6 Lyral
12 MDJ Super .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Thesaron
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orangeflor
106 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Verotyl
12 Santalox T Neat 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Cashmeran 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Lioral 2 Kir Base # 9741
45 Ionone Intermediate Base 36 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rosone
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
319 ( DPG )
32 Rose Base # 59
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol S 85
2 Neo Geranium Oil
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
3 Neroli Egypt
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

442

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rose Crystals .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.

4 Musk 50 ( DEP ) 5 Florantone T
9 Benzyl Benzoate 58 Geraniol Prime
.1 Exaltolide 29 Linalool
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 8 Orange Blossom Base
19 Benzyle Salicylate .1 Folione
14 Sandalwood Substitute 5 Phenylethylalcohol
5 Musk Emeressence 2 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
1 Rose Crystals .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Heliotropine 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
11 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Nerol
69 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 1 Cassis Fragrance B
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 6 Lyral
12 MDJ Super .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Methyl Octyl Ketone
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orangeflor
98 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Verotyl
12 Bacdanol 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Cashmeran 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Graniol 970 2 Kir Base # 9741
45 Ionone Intermediate Base 36 Acetate de Linalyl
1 Rosone
22 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
318 ( DPG )
44 Rose Base # 59
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol S 85
2 Neo Geranium Oil
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
3 Neroli Egypt
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

443

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 7c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

2 Rose Crystals ex Benzaldehyde .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.

4 Musk TM II 5 Orangeflor
9 Benzyl Benzoate 58 Geraniol Prime
.1 Exaltolide 29 Linalool
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate ( DEP ) 8 Orange Blossom Base
19 Benzylsalicylate .1 Folione
16 Sandalwood Australia 5 Phenylethylalcohol
5 Cashmeran 2 Benzyl Acetate
1 Rose Crystals .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
4 Heliotropine 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
11 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Nerol
59 Benzylacetate 1 Cassis Fragrance B
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 6 Lyral
12 MDJ Super .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Thesaron
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orange Oil Bitter W.I.
96 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Verotyl
12 Santalox T Neat 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Methyl Benzoate 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
19 Lioral 2 Kir Base # 9741
45 Ionone Intermediate Base 36 Linalyl Acetate
1 Rosone
23 Eugenol / Clove
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
319 ( DPG )
52 Rose Base # 62
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Citronellol S 85
1 Geranium Rose Egyptian
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol
3 Neroli Egypt
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

444

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 7d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Benzophenone .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.

4 Musk 50 ( DEP ) 5 Florantone T
9 Benzyl Benzoate 58 Geraniol Pure
.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 29 Linalol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 8 Orange Blossom Base
19 Benzyle Salicylate .1 Undecavertol
16 Osyrol 5 Phenylethylalcohol
5 Musk Clear 2 Iso Jasmone
1 Rose Crystals .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Heliotropine 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
11 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Nerol 98 %
68 Benzyl Acetate FCC 1 Bourgenal
.1 Rose Essence Abs. 5 Hydroxycitronellol
12 MDJ Super .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Alpha Damascon
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orangeflor
107 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Vanilla Alcohol
10 Sandiff 1 Bois Amberene Forte
5 Cashmeran 3 Eugenyl Acetate
19 Geranio Africa 2 Kir Base # 9741
35 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 36 Linalylacetate
1 Rosone
23 Eugenol
14 Lyral 1,000
319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
42 Rose Base # 59
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
9 Citronellol S 85
2 Geranium Chine
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 Fruitaleur
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
2 Di Methyl Octanol
3 Neroli Artessence
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

445

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 7e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

2 Rosone .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.

4 Musk 50 ( DEP ) 5 Aurantiol
9 Benzyl ALcohol 58 Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % )
.1 Exaltolide 29 Linalool
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 11 Orange Blossom Base
19 Benzyle Salicylate .1 Folione
16 Osyrol 5 Alcool Phenylethylique 96 %
5 Musk Clear 2 Iso Jasmon
1 Rose Crystals .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 5 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Acetate Neryle
69 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 1 Orange, Bitter Brazil
.1 Vanilla Abs. C’Less MD 5 Troenan
12 Acetato Benzila .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Thesaron
.1 Alcohol C - 09 8 Orangeflor
96 Muguet Base 1 Gelsone
12 Santalox T Neat 1 Stemone
5 Musk R - 1 3 Iso - Eugenol ( Carnation )
19 Lioral 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
45 Ionone Intermediate Base 36 Linalyl Acetate
1 Polarose
23 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
14 Hydroxycitronellol 1,000
319 Propylene Glycol
42 Rose Base # 63
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol Ex Citronelle
2 Rose Turquie
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Rose Bulgarian
5 Melon Oliffac
4 Lyrame
1 Di Methyl Octanol
2 Bitter Orange NPF
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

446

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 8a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 CouMarin 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Wardia - Firmenich
.1 Vamba 18 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Civet Tincture .1 Ylang Core
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Rose Crystals 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor 14
12 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
5 Iris Beurre Oil .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Tubereuse 181
7 Vanilys 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Cashmeran 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Rose Oil M/F 6 Lyral
9 Hedione 1 Iso Damascone
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geraniol 600
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 Perryfix ( Creations Aromatiques )
97 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Acetate de Neryle
6 Citronellol S 85
3 Lyral
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 1,000
56 Geraniol ex Palma Rosa
27 Eugenol
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Tuberose Absolute
1 Iso - Eugenol ( Carnation )
4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
8 Honey Rose Givco 73
.1 Iridales
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol Pur

447

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 8b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 CouMarin 2 Damascenone
3 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Wardia - Firmenich
.1 Vamba 18 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Civet Tincture .1 Ylang Core
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Rose Crystals 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor 16
12 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
31 Benzyl Acetate 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
5 y - Irone .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
1 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Rose Oxide R
7 Vanilys 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Cashmeran 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Rose Oil M/F 6 Hidroxicitronelal
11 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1 Iso Damascone
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geraniol 600
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 Perryfix - Symrise, Perry Brothers
94 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Acetate de Neryle
6 Citronellol S 85
3 Lyral
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 1,000
58 Geraniol Pure
27 Eugenol
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Phenafleur
2 Nerol natural
.1 Tuberose Absolute
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
4 Iso Raldeine 85
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Honey Rose Givco 77
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol Ex Bois De Rose Oil

448

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 8c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Wardia - Firmenich
.1 Vamba 18 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Civet Tincture .1 Ylang Core
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
3 Heliotropine 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Roseone 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor 18
12 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
5 Iris Beurre Oil .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Tubereuse 181
7 Vanillin ex Benzaldehyde 2 Rose Moroccan Extra
2 Musk 15 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa Oil 7 Lyrame Super
9 Hedione 1 Iso Damascone
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geraniol 600
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
94 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Neryl Acetate
6 Citronellol S 85
3 Lyral
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 1,000
59 Geraniol ex Palma Rosa
27 Eugenol
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Tuberose Absolute
1 Geranium over Roses
4 alpha - Ionone
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Honey Rose Givco 73
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bois Amberene Forte
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol 98 %

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 8d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 CouMarin 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Wardia - Firmenich
.1 Vamba 15 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Civet Tincture .1 Ylang Ylang Petals I
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
3 Iso Eugenol Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
2 Rose Crystals 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor 19
12 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 5 Cassifix
5 Ionone Alpha Refined .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
98 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Tube Rose Oliffac
7 Vanilys 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Muskylein 8 Geranyl Acetate
3 Rose Oil M/F 6 Hysimal
9 Hedione 1 Rose Oil Turkey 1282
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geraniol 600
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 Pearalate
97 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Acetate de Neryle
5 Citronellol A.J.
3 Lyral
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 1,000
58 Geraniol ex Palma Rosa
27 Eugenol
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Sandalore
2 Nerol
.1 Tuberose Absolute
2 Iso - Eugenol
4 Irisone Bis
8 Alcohol Ethylphenylique
.1 Rose Abs. Egyptian
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
32 Linalol Pur

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 8e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Helional 2 Methyxycitronellal Q
1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Wardia - Firmenich
.1 Vamba 18 Orange Blossom Base
.1 Civet Tincture .1 Ylang Core
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 5 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Geranodyle 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
12 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
33 Benzyl Acetate Nat. 5 Bois Amberene Forte
3 Iritone V .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
91 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
4 Vanilys 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Musk Emeressence 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Rose Oil M/F 5 Hidroxicitronelal ( Muguet )
14 Hedione 1 Iso Damascone
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Attar
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Apritone
97 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Neryl Acetate
6 Citronellol S 95
3 Lyral
9 Hydroxy Citronellal 1,000
64 Geraniol ex Palma Rosa
27 Eugenol
322 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Tuberose Absolute
1 Iso - Eugenol ( Carnation )
4 Iso Raldeine 85
8 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Honey Rose Givco 73
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bourgenal
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol Pur

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 9a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Artificial 1c .1 Rose Abs. Turkey A

10 Hercolyn - D 3 Aurantiol Pure
49 Musk R - 1 5 Wardia
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 27 Linalool
5 Vanisal 14 Orange Blossom Base
11 Sandela 3 Citronet
23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Tangerinol
51 Coumane 15 Phenylethylalcohol
6 Iso & Super 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
4 Hydrofix R 4 Top Muguet
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 2 Kir Base # 9741
51 Benzylacetate .4 Methyl Tuberate pur
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Flor
4 Florosia 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
7 Osyrol 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 2 Sensient
44 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Methyl Dianthanol
43 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 39 Linalyl Acetate Special 95.5 %
.1 Alcohol C - 09 .1 Violiff
6 Lily Aldehyde 1 Florantone T
3 Citronellol 850 - Bush Boake Allen .1 Galbanum Absolue
1 Rose Otto, Bulgaria .1 Geraniol 600
9 Lyral 1 Veraflor
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base 2 Bourgenal
7 Bonorax
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
2 Irisone Bis
54 Geraniol Fine
2 Methyl Octyl Ketone
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol 60
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 9b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Artificial 1d .1 Rose Abs. Turkey A

10 Hercolyn - D 3 Aurantiol Pure
49 Musk 50 DEP 5 Wardia
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 27 Linalool
5 Vanilline 14 Orange Blossom Base
11 Sandela 3 Citronet
23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Tangerinol
51 Coumarina 15 Phenylethylalcohol
6 Iso & Super 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
4 Hydrofix R 4 Top Muguet
1 Heliotropine 2 Kir Base # 9741
51 Benzylacetate .4 Methyl Tuberate pur
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Flor
4 Florosia 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
7 Osyrol 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 2 Sensient
42 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Methyl Dianthanol
43 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 39 Linalyl Acetate Special 95.5 %
.1 Alcohol C - 09 .1 Violiff
6 Lily Aldehyde 1 Florantone T
3 Citronellol 850 - Bush Boake Allen .1 Galbanum Absolue
1 Rose Otto, Bulgaria .1 Geraniol 600
9 Lyral 1 Veraflor
78 Ionone Intrmediate Base 3 Bourgenal
7 Bonorax
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
2 Irisone Bis
54 Geraniol Fine
2 Methyl Octyl Ketone
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol 60
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate

453

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 9c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 1b .1 Rose Essence Abs.

8 Benzyl Propionate 3 Aurantiol Pure
49 Musk R - 1 5 Wardia
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 27 Linalol
5 Vanisal 14 Orange Blossom Base
11 Sandela 3 Citronet
23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Tangerine Oil Florida ( C.P. )
51 Coumane 15 Phenylethylalcohol
6 Iso & Super 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
4 Nerol 80 % 4 Top Muguet
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 2 Kir Base # 9741
51 Benzylacetate .4 Tuberose Oliffac
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Flor
4 Florosia 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
9 Osyrol 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 2 Sensient
44 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Methyl Dianthanol
43 Benzyle Acetate Pur 40 Linalyl Acetate Special 95.5 %
.1 Alcohol C - 09 .1 Violiff
6 Lily Aldehyde 1 Florantone T
3 Citronellol natural .1 Galbanum Absolue
1 Rose Otto, Bulgaria .1 Geraniol 600
9 Meijiff 1 Fleuramone
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base 2 Bourgenal
7 Bonorax
9 alpha - Ionone Extra
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
2 y - Irone
57 Geraniol 90 %
2 Methyl Octyl Ketone
3 Muguet Aldehyde
2 Cinnamon Leaf - Sri Lanka
1 Geraniol 60
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 9d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Artificial 1a .1 Rose Centifolia Abs. - France

10 Hercolyn - D 3 Aurantiol Pure
49 Galaxolide 50 DPG 5 Wardia
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 27 Linalool
7 Vanisal 14 Orange Blossom Base
11 Sandela 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Tangerine Oil ( Florida / Brazil )
51 Coumane 15 Phenylethylalcohol
6 Iso & Super 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
4 Hydrofix R 4 Top Muguet
1 Heliotropine 2 Kir Base # 9741
49 Benzylacetate .4 Methyl Tuberate pur
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Flor
4 Florosia 3 Palmarosa, India
48 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Osyrol 2 Sensient
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Pepperwood
43 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 39 Linalyl Acetate Special 95.5 %
.1 Alcohol C - 09 .1 Violiff
2 Lily Aldehyde 1 Florantone T
3 Citronellol Prime .1 Galbanum Absolue
1 Rose Otto, Bulgaria .1 Geraniol 600
9 Lyral 1 Veraflor
76 Ionone Intrmediate Base 3 Muguesia
7 Bonorax
9 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
2 Irisone Bis
54 Geraniol Fine
2 Methyl Octyl Ketone
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Caraway Oil - Holland
1 Geraniol 60
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 9e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethiopia .1 Rose ( Otto ) Oil - Russia

10 Hercolyn - D 3 Methyl Anthranilate
49 Etilen Brassilato ( Musc T ) 5 Wardia
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 27 Linalool
5 Vanillin 14 Orange Blossom Base
11 Sandela 3 Citronet
23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Tangerine Oil of Florida ( C.P. )
51 Coumane 15 Phenylethylalcohol
6 Iso & Super 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
4 Hydrofix R 4 Top Muguet
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
52 Hedione .4 Methyl Tuberate pur
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Flor
4 Florosia 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
7 Kephalis 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 2 Sensient
34 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Methyl Dianthanol
43 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 41 Linalyl Acetate Special 95.5 %
.1 Alcohol C - 09 .1 Orangeflor
4 Lily Aldehyde 1 Florantone T
3 Citronellol 850 - Bush Boake Allen .1 Rose De Mai Absolue Recobase 1
1 Rose Otto, Bulgaria .1 Rose Petals Extract
9 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Veraflor
78 Ionone Intrmediate Base 2 Bourgenal
7 Bonorax
6 alpha - Ionone Extra
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
2 Irisone Bis
65 Geraniol Fine
2 Methyl Octyl Ketone
3 Mugone S 207 M
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol 60
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl Acetate

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 10a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Substitute 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

8 Musk T - Takasago 77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Muguet Aldeido
4 Heliotropine .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Nerol Petals
50 Traseolide 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
8 Vanillin 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Laurine Extra
9 Sandalwood Givco 83 22 Linalol
48 MDJ Super .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 16
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
1 Dupical 3 Pamplemousse E. Blanc
4 Anisic Aldehyde 17 Geraniol Pure
83 Muguet Base 8 Orange Blossom Base
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Ethyl Vanillin 6 Cassis Fragrance
7 Methyl Benzoate .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
9 Hedione 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
4 Citronellol FCC 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
13 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 2 Iris odor
1 Cashmeran 17 Wardia
8 Benzylacetate 1 Grapefruit Oil ( White / Pink )
3 Anthea Sandal Coeur 38 Linalyl Acetate
55 Geraniol Pure 1 Tangerine Oil Dancy Type
10 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Rosilial
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Mugetanol
1 Reseda Body 2 Isobergamote

1,000

457

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 10b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarina 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

8 Galaxolide 50 ( IFF ) 77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Heliotropine .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Nerol 95 %
50 Traseolide 3 Massoia Ecorce - India
8 Vanillin 4 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Laurine Extra
9 Sandalwood Givco 86 22 Linalol
48 MDJ - Kao Corp. - Japan .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 16
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
1 Dupical 3 Pamplemousse E. Blanc
4 Anisic Aldehyde 17 Geraniol Prime
81 Muguet Base 8 Orange Blossom Base
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Ethyl Vanillin 8 Cassis Fragrance
7 Methyl Benzoate .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
11 Acetate Benzila 4 Geranium Rose Bourbon
4 Citronellol FCC 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
13 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 2 Iritone V
1 Musk 17 Wardia
8 Benzylacetate 1 Grapefruit Oil ( White / Pink )
3 Anthea Sandal Coeur 38 Linalyl Acetate
55 Geraniol Pure 1 Tangerinol
10 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Rosilial
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Mugetanol
1 Reseda Body 4 Bergamot Oil FCC

1,000

458

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 10c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 CouMarin Crystals 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

8 Musc T - Takasago 77 Ionone Intermediate Base
11 Benzyl Propionate 3 Muguet Aldeido
4 Heliotropine .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Nerol 97
50 Traseolide 3 Cherry Bark Oil - India
8 Vanillin 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Geraniol Pur 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
9 Sandalwood Givco 83 19 Linalool
48 Benzyl Acetate Nat. - MelChem .5 Rose Otto Augaflor 18
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
1 Florosia 3 Pamplemousse E. Blanc
4 Iso Rose 17 Geraniol Synthetic 98 FCC
83 Muguet Base 11 Orange Blossom Base
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Ethyl Vanillin 6 Cassis Fragrance
7 Methyl Benzoate .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
9 Hedione 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
4 Citronellol FCC 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
13 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 2 Iridales
1 Cashmeran 17 Wardia
8 Geraniol 970 1 Grapefruit Oil ( White / Pink )
3 Anthea Sandal Coeur 36 Linalyl Acetate
55 Geraniol Pure 1 Tangerine Oil of Texas ( C.P. )
10 Ionone Alpha Refined .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Roseiff
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Mugone S 207 M
1 Hyacinth PP 2 Bergaleaves

1,000

459

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Rose # 10d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Substitute 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

10 Musk T - Takasago 77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Muguet Aldeido
4 Heliotropine .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Nerol Petals
50 Traseolide 3 Cinnamon Bark Oil
8 Vanillin 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Hydrofix R
9 Sandalwood Givco 83 22 Linalol
48 MDJ Super .5 Rose Essence Abs.
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Cinnamalva
1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Pamplemousse E. Blanc
4 Anisic Aldehyde 17 Geraniol Pure
83 Muguet Base 8 Orange Blossom Base
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Ethyl Vanillin 6 Cassis Fragrance
7 Methyl Benzoate .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
9 Hedione 3 Gernaium Oil - China, Egypt
4 Citronellol FCC 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
13 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 2 Meranol
1 Musk 781 17 Wardia
6 Benzyl Acetate 1 Grapefruit Oil ( White / Pink )
3 Sandalwood Oils 38 Linalylacetate
55 Geraniol Pure 1 Tangerine Oil of California
10 Ionone Alpha .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Rhodinol
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Rose Oxide R
24 Carnation Base 1 Mugetanol
1 Hydroxyciol 2 Mandarinal

1,000

460

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Rose

Rose # 10e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Di Hydro Coumarex 3 Iso Jasmone

10 Musk Emeressence 77 Iso Raldeine Substitute
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Muguet Aldeido
4 Heliotropine .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Nerol Petals
50 Traseolide 1 Coriander Oil - Russia
8 Vanillin 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Hydrofix R
9 Sandalwood Givco 83 22 Linalool
48 MDJ Super .5 Rose Essence Abs.
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Cinnamalva
1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Grapefruit Oil of Florida
4 Hawthorn 17 Geraniol Prime
83 Muguet Base 8 Orange Blossom Base
5 Eugenyl Acetate 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Ethylvanillin 6 Vert De Cassis Givco
7 Methyl Benzoate .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
9 Benzyle Acetato 3 Gernaium Oil - China
4 Citronellol 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
13 Laurine Extra - Givaudan 2 Meranol
1 Musk Gazalle 17 Wardia
6 Benzyl Acetate 1 Grapefruit Oil ( White / Pink )
3 Sandalwood Oil Indian 40 Linalylacetate
55 Geraniol Pure 1 Tangerine Oil
10 Ionone Alpha 60 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Rhodinol
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Rose Oxide R
22 Carnation Base 1 Mugetanol
1 Hydroxyciol 4 Clementine Oil Orpur - Givaudan

1,000

461

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet

Viola is a genus of flowering plants Viola species are herbaceous, and a blooming, and in some species the
in the violet family Violaceae, with substantial number are acaulescent sepals enlarge after blooming. The
around 400–500 species distributed in habit - meaning they lack any flowers have five free stamens with
around the world. Most species are noticeable stems and the foliage short filaments that are oppressed
found in the temperate Northern and flowers appear to rise from the against the ovary, only the lower
Hemisphere; however, viola ground; the remaining species have two stamens have nectary spurs that
species (commonly called violets, short stems with foliage and flow- are inserted on the lowest petal into
pansies or heartsease) are also ers produced in the axils of the the spur or a pouch. The flower
found in widely divergent areas leaves. The simple leaves of plants styles are thickened near the top
such as Hawaii, Australasia, and with either habit are arranged alter- and the stigmas are head-like, nar-
the Andes in South America. nately; the acaulescent species pro- rowed or often beaked. The flowers
duce basal rosettes. Plants always have a superior ovary with one cell,
Most Viola species are perennial have leaves with stipules that are which has three placentae, contain-
plants, some are annual plants, and often leaf-like. ing many ovules.
a few are small shrubs. A number
of species are grown for their orna- The flowers of the vast majority of Viola flowers are most often spring
mental flowers in borders and rock the species are zygomorphic with blooming with chasmogamous
gardens; the garden pansy in partic- bilateral symmetry. The flowers are flowers with well-developed petals
ular is an extensively used spring formed from five petals; four are pollinated by insects. Many species
and autumn/winter bedding and pot upswept or fan-shaped petals with also produce self-pollinated cleis-
plant. Viola and violetta are terms two per side, and there is one broad, togamous flowers in summer and
used by gardeners and generally in lobed lower petal pointing down- autumn that do not open and lack
horticulture for neat, small-flow- ward. The shape of the petals and petals. In some species the showy
ered hybrid plants intermediate in placement defines many species, chasmogamous flowers are infertile
size between pansies and violets. for example, some Viola species (e.g.,Viola papilionacea).
have a "spur" on the end of each
Description petal while most have a spur on the After flowering, fruit capsules are
lower petal. produced that split open by way of
Viola species typically have heart- three valves. On drying, the cap-
shaped, scalloped leaves, though a Solitary flowers end long stalks sules may eject seeds with consid-
number have palmate leaves or with a pair of bracteoles. The flow- erable force to distances of several
other shapes. The vast majority of ers have 5 sepals that persist after meters. The nutlike seeds have

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

straight embryos, flat cotyledons, Teide violet ("dogtooth violets") are related to
and soft fleshy endosperm that is the true Viola.
oily. The seeds of some species Viola corsica
have elaiosomes and are dispersed Corsican pansy The genus includes dog violets, a
by ants. group of scentless species which
Viola hederacea are the most common viola in many
Flower colours vary in the genus, Australian native violet, ivy- areas, sweet violet (Viola odorata)
ranging from violet, as their com- leaved violet (named from its sweet scent), and
mon name suggests, through vari- many other species whose common
ous shades of blue, yellow, white, Viola hirta name includes the word "violet".
and cream, whilst some types are hairy violet Several species are known as pan-
bicolored, often blue and yellow. sies, including the yellow pansy
Many cultivars and hybrids have Viola labradorica (Viola pedunculata) of the Pacific
been bred in a greater spectrum of alpine violet coast.
colours. Flowering is often profuse,
and may last for much of the spring Viola odorata Common blue violet Viola sororia
and summer. sweet violet is the state flower of Wisconsin,
Rhode Island, Illinois, and New
One quirk of some viola is the elu- Viola pedunculata Jersey.
sive scent of their flowers; along yellow pansy
with terpenes, a major component Australia is home to a number of
of the scent is a ketone compound Viola persicifolia Viola species, including Viola hed-
called ionone, which temporarily fen violet eracea, Viola betonicifolia and
desensitises the receptors of the Viola banksii, first collected by
nose, thus preventing any further Viola pubescens Joseph Banks and Daniel Solander
scent being detected from the downy yellow violet on the Cook voyage to Botany Bay.
flower until the nerves recover.
Viola riviniana The modern garden pansy (V. ×
Selected Species: common dog violet wittrockiana) is a plant of complex
hybrid origin involving at least
Viola arvensis Viola rostrata three species, V. tricolor (wild
field pansy long-spurred violet pansy or heartsease), V. altaica and
V. lutea (mountain pansy).
Viola banksii Viola sororia
Australian native violet, ivy- common blue violet, hooded Species and cultivars
leaved violet violet
Cultivars of Viola cornuta, Viola
Viola biflora Viola tricolor cucullata, Viola odorata, are com-
yellow wood violet, twoflower wild pansy, heartsease monly grown from seed. Other
violet species often grown include Viola
Viola canina Note: labradorica, Viola pedata and Viola
heath dog violet rotundifolia.
Neither Saintpaulia ("African vio-
Viola cheiranthifolia lets") nor Erythronium dens-canis

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Bedding plants
The plants known to gardeners as
"violas" are common bedding and
pot plants world wide. In 2005 in
the United States, violas (including
pansies) were one of the top three
bedding plant crops and 111 million
dollars worth of flats of violas were
produced for the bedding flower
market. Pansies and violas used for
bedding are generally raised from
seed, and F1 hybrid seed strains
have been developed which pro-
duce compact plants of reasonably
consistent flower colouring and
appearance. Bedding plants are
usually discarded after one growing
season.
Perrenial Cultivars
There are hundreds of perennial
viola and violetta cultivars; many
of these do not "come true" from
seed and therefore have to be prop-
agated from cuttings. Violettas can
be distinguished from violas by the
lack of ray markings on their petals.
A few popular examples include:
Viola 'Ardross Gem' ( viola )
Viola 'Buttercup' ( violetta )
Viola 'Columbine' ( viola )
Viola 'Dawn' ( violetta )
Viola 'Etain' ( viola )
Viola 'Irish Molly' ( viola )
Viola 'Jackanapes' ( viola )
Viola 'Maggie Mott' ( viola )
Viola 'Martin' ( viola )
Viola 'Molly Sanderson' ( viola )
Viola 'Rebecca' ( violetta )
Viola 'Vita' ( viola )
Viola 'Zoe' ( violetta )
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Glen O. Brechbill
Viola ( 'Blackjack' )
Weed control
Not all violets are desired, and wild
violets are considered weeds in
North American lawns by some
people. Others tolerate or welcome
the presence of violets in lawns.
Wild violets are regarded as a prob-
lem in shady fescue lawns in North
America. Violets thrive in the
part/full shade and are not suscepti-
ble to most herbicides used to kill
common lawn weeds. Triclopyr, a
weedkiller, has been found to be an
effective method of controlling
wild violets in fescue lawns.
Culinary
When newly opened, Viola flowers
may be used to decorate salads or in
stuffings for poultry or fish.
Soufflés, cream and similar
desserts can be flavoured with
essence of Viola flowers. The
young leaves are edible raw or
cooked as a somewhat bland leaf
vegetable. The flowers and leaves
of the cultivar 'Rebecca', one of the
Violetta violets, has a distinct vanil-
la flavor with hints of wintergreen.
A candied violet or crystallized vio-
let is a flower, usually of Viola
odorata, preserved by a coating of
egg white and crystallised sugar.
Alternatively, hot syrup is poured
over the fresh flower (or the flower
is immersed in the syrup) and Viola canescens, a species from
stirred until the sugar recrystallizes from India, exhibited in vitro activ-
and has dried. This method is still ity against Trypanosoma cruzi.
used for rose petals and was applied
464
to orange flowers in the past (when
almonds or orange peel are treated
this way they are called pralines).
Candied violets are still made com-
mercially in Toulouse, France,
where they are known as violettes
de Toulouse. They are used as dec-
orating or included in aromatic
desserts.
The French are also known for their
violet syrup, most commonly made
from an extract of violets. In the
United States, this French violet
syrup is used to make violet scones
and marshmallows.
Viola essence flavours the liqueurs
Creme Yvette, Creme de Violette,
and Parfait d'Amour. It is also used
in Parma Violets confectionery.
Medicinal
The flowers, leaves and roots of
various Viola species are used for
medicinal purposes, being rich in
vitamins A and C. They also con-
tain a type of antioxidant called an
anthocyanin. Viola flowers are also
used to make an herbal tea that is
used in Chinese herbal medicine.
Most violas (all tested) and many
plants of the Violaceae plant family
contain cyclotides, which have a
diverse range of biological activi-
ties, including uterotonic, anti-HIV,
antimicrobial, and insecticidal
activities.
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Fourteen anthocyanins from V. Characteristics pounds found in a variety of essen-

yedoensis and V. prionantha have tial oils, including rose oil. beta-
been identified. Some anthocyanins Viola odorata is quite similar to Ionone is a significant contributor
show strong antioxidant activities. other species of violet, but can be to the aroma of roses, despite its
distinguished by the following relatively low concentration, and is
Perfume characteristics: an important fragrance chemical
used in perfumery. The ionones are
Viola odorata is used as a source for the flowers are aromatic, derived from the degradation of
scents in the perfume industry. carotenoids.
Violet is known to have a 'flirty' the flowers are normally either dark
scent as its fragrance comes and violet or white, The carotenes alpha-carotene, beta-
goes. Ionone is present in the flow- carotene, gamma-carotene, and the
ers, which turns off the ability for the leaves and flowers are all in a xanthophyll beta-cryptoxanthin, all
humans to smell the fragrant com- basal rosette, contain beta-ionone, and thus have
pound for moments at a time. vitamin A activity because they can
the style is hooked (and does not be converted by plant-eating ani-
Viola Odorata end with a rounded appendage), mals to retinol and retinal.
Carotenoids that do not contain the
Viola odorata is a species of the the leaf-stalks have hairs which beta-ionone moiety cannot be con-
genus Viola native to Europe and point downwards, and verted to retinol, and thus have no
Asia, but has also been introduced vitamin A activity.
to North America and Australasia. the plant spreads with stolons
It is commonly known as Wood (above-ground shoots). Biosynthesis
Violet, Sweet Violet, English
Violet, Common Violet, or Garden These perennial flowers can mature Carotenoids are the precursors of
Violet. The herb is known as at a height of 4 to 6 inches and a important fragrance compounds in
Banafsa, Banafsha or Banaksa in spread of 8 to 24 inches. several flowers. For example, a
India, where it is commonly used as recent study of ionones in
remedy to cure sore throat and ton- Species Osmanthus fragrans Lour. var.
silitis. The sweet scent of this aurantiacus, exhibit the highest
flower has proved popular through- The species can be found near the diversity of carotenoid-derived
out the generations[by whom?], edges of forests or in clearings; it is volatiles among the flowering
particularly in the late Victorian also a common "uninvited guest" in plants investigated. A cDNA
period, and has consequently been shaded lawns or elsewhere in gar- encoding a carotenoid cleavage
used in the production of many cos- dens. enzyme, OfCCD1, was identified
metic fragrances and perfumes. The from transcripts isolated from flow-
French are also known for their vio- Ionones ers of O. fragrans Lour. It was
let syrup, most commonly made found that the recombinant
from an extract of violets. In the The ionones are a series of closely enzymes cleaved carotenes to pro-
United States, this French violet related chemical substances that are duce -ionone and -ionone in in vitro
syrup is used to make violet scones part of a group of compounds assays.
and marshmallows. known as rose ketones, which also
includes damascones and damas- It was also found in the same study
cenones. Ionones are aroma com- that carotenoid content, volatile

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 Glen O. Brechbill

emissions, and OfCCD1 transcript

levels are subject to photorhythmic
changes, and principally increased
during daylight hours. At the times
when OfCCD1 transcript levels
reached their maxima, the
carotenoid content remained low or
slightly decreased. The emission of
ionones was also higher during the
day; however, emissions decreased
at a lower rate than the transcript
levels. Moreover, carotenoid con-
tent increased from the first to the
second day, whereas the volatile
release decreased, and the OfCCD1
transcript levels displayed steady-
state oscillations, suggesting that
the substrate availability in the cel-
lular compartments is changing or
other regulatory factors are
involved in volatile norisoprenoid
formation. The formation of
ionones proceeds by a process
mediated by the carotenoid dioxy-
genases.

Organic synthesis

Ionone can be synthesised from cit-

ral and acetone with calcium oxide
as a basic heterogeneous catalysis
and serves as an example of an
aldol condensation followed by a
rearrangement reaction.

The nucleophilic addition of the

carbanion 3 of acetone 1 to the car-
bonylgroup on citral 4 is base catal-
ysed. The aldol condensation prod-
uct 5 eliminates water through the
enolate ion 6 to the pseudoionone
7.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet Fragrance Chemicals

BOOK # 1 ( A - G ) Amen Organics - India Methyl Ionone Gamma

Methyl Octyne Carbonate
A & E Connock Ltd. - U.K. Violet Oil
Orivone
Violet Leaf Absolute American Society of Perfumers
Undecavertol
A. Fakhry & Company - Egypt Violet Leaf Abs.
Aromatic International LLC - USA
Viola Odorata - Violet Leaf FLORAL NOTE
Nonadienal FLORAL GROUP
Irone
A.N.E.C. - France Orris
Anupam Industries - India
Violette Violet
Alpha Ionone
Africa Trade - Africa GREEN GROUP
Beta Ionone
AROMATIC & MEDICINAL PLANTS Violet Leaves
Di Hydro Beta Ionone
Iris Racine Aromatics Adl - France
Ionone 100 %
Albert Vielle SA - France Ionone Pure Violette Feuilles Egypte Concrete
Irisone Alpha
Orris Oil - Italy Irisone Pure AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Irone Alpha
ABSOLUTES Irotyl Ionone Alpha
Iso Raldeine 70 Ionone Alpha Incolore
Violet Abs. - Egypt Iso Raldiene 95 Ionone Beta
Ionone Beta Savon
Alfa Chem - USA Liffarome Ionone Brute
Ionone Pure
Violet Leaf Abs. Methyl Ionone Ionone Savon

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Artiste Flavor / Essence - USA
Violet Leaves Absolute
Astra Extracts - USA
ESSENTIAL OILS
Iris
Augustus Oils Ltd. - U.K.
Orris Augaflor 13
Violet Augaflor 27
ABSOLUTE
Violet Leaf Abs. / Concrete
Axxence SARL - France
ABSOLUTES / CONCRETES
Iris Italy Iris Italie
Violet Viollettes
Basf - Germany
Beta Ionone R
BFA Laboratoires - France
Orris Iris Germanica L.
Rhizome Morocco
Bedoukian Research, Inc. - USA
Alpha Ionone BRI FCC
Alpha Ionyl Acetate
Alpha Iso Methyl Ionol
Alpha Iso Methyl Ionone BRI
Alpha Iso Methyl Ionyl Acetate
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Glen O. Brechbill
Di Hydro Alpha Ionone
Ethyl Octine Carbonate
Methyl Octine Carbonate
e,z-26-Nonadien-1-AL FCC
3,z-2,6-Nonadien-1-OL FCC
Berje Inc. - USA
Orris Root Concrete
Violet Leaf Absolute
AROMA CHEMICALS
Ionone Alpha
Ionone Alpha-beta
Ionone Beta
Ionone for Soap
Methyl Ionone Alpha
Methyl Ionone Bj
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Biolandes Parfumerie - France
SPECIALTIES
Irone V
Orris Inco 3
Violet Pays Absolute
PARFUMERIE RECONSTITUTIONS
Orris Butter Artessence E - 3721
468
Bordas Destilaciones - Spain
AROMA CHEMICALS
Alpha Ionone Extra
Alpha Ionone 700
Alpha Methyl Ionone
Brighten Colorchem B.V. - Neth.
AROMA CHEMICALS
Ionone
Ionone Alfa
Ionone Beta
Buckton Page Ltd. - U.K.
Orris Abs.
Violet Leaf Concrete
Carrubba Inc. - USA
EXTRACT’S
Iris
Violet
Central States Chemical - USA
Orris Butter / Root - Concrete
Champon Vanilla, Inc. - USA
AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Methyl Ionone
Methyl Ionone Alpha
Charabot & Co., Inc. - France
Violet Leaves Abs.
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

China Aroma Chemical - China Methyl Octine Carbonate Subst. Esencias y Materiales - Mexico

Iris Abs. Orris Questarome QUIMICOS DE AROMATICOS

Iris Concrete Vioris Ionona Alpha

Ionona Beta
China Perfumer - China Rhodia SA - France
Essencia, Aetherische - Switz.
Charabot SA - France Alpha Ionone
ABSOLUTES
Violet Leaf Oil Abs. Egypt Beta Ionone
Violet Leaf Oil Abs. Decolor Egypt Violetes Feuilles Absolue
Violet Leaf Oil Abs. Citral Oleos Essenciais - Brazil Viola Odorata

Orris Concrete Morocco Ionol CP MATIERES PREMIERES AROMATIQUES

Ionona CP
Orris Resinoid Morocco Ionona Alfa Irisone Mixed Ionones
Ionona Beta Irisone, alpha
Firmenich SA - Switz. Irone Alpha Irone, alpha
Iso - Raldeine 70
Iris Concrete Synth 199 L. Metil Ionona Gama Iso - Raldeine 95

Violettyne MIP Nonaidenal Exaflor - France

Nonadienol 2, 6
Givaudan SA - Switz. CONCRETES ET ABSOLUTES
Velvione
Iris Givco 204/2 Violette - Egypte
Irisone Alpha Cosmark - Australia
Irone Alpha Fayyum Gharbya Aromatic - Egypt
2 - Undecanone
Methyl Octyne Carbonate ABSOLUTES
Diffusions Aromatiques - France
Raldeine A GV Violet Leaves Abs.
PRODUIT DE SYNTHESE Viola Odorata L.
Undecavertol
Ionone Alpha Violet Leaves Concrete
Quest Intl. ( Givaudan ) - Switz. Ionone Beta Viola Odorata L.

Ionone Eramex Aromatics - Germany Firmenich SA - Switzerland

Iononyl Acetate
Iononyl Formate Extra Violet Absolute / Concrete Iralia
Iralia Total
Methyl Ionone Iris Concrete Synthetic 199 L
Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso Super

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 Glen O. Brechbill
Violettyne MIP Undecavertol
Flavodor - The Netherlands QUEST PERFUMERS COMPENDIUM
Violet Abs. Azarbre
Fleurchem, Inc. - USA Ionone
Orris, Concrete Methyl Ionone
Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Methyl Ionone Beta
Methyl Octine Carbonate Sub.
Ionone, Alpha
Ionone, Beta Global Essence Ltd. - U.K.
Florachem Corporation - USA Irisone Crystal - Usa
Privi Organics Ltd. - India The Good Scents Company - USA
Beta Ionone Orris Root Absolute
Frencharoma Imports Co., - USA Violet Flower Absolute
Violet Leaf Absolute
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Violet Leaf Concrete
Ionone, Alpha AROMATIC CHEMICALS
Ionone, Beta
Irone Alpha Alpha Ionol
Alpha Ionone
Givaudan Fragrance Corp. - Switz. Alpha Irone
Iris Givco 204/2 Beta Ionol
Beta Ionone
Orris Givco 204/2 Beta Ionyl Acetate
AROMA CHEMICALS COMPENDIUM Methyl Ionyl Acetate
Ionantheme 100 % VIOLET NOTE
Ionone Beta
Irisone Pure Ionol - Alpha
Irone Alpha Ionol - Beta
Ionone - Alpha
Methyl Octne Carbonate Ionone - Beta
Ionyl Acetate - Alpha
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Ionyl Acetate - Beta
Irone - Alpha
Methyl Ionone - 6
Methyl Ionone - Alpha - Iso
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Methyl Ionyl Acetate
Orris
Orris Root Absolute
Orris Root Concrete
Orris Root Resinoid
Violet
Violet Flower Absolute
Violet Methyl Carbonate
FRUITY
Ionone Epoxide - Beta
Methyl Beta Ionol
HC Biochem - China
Iris Concrete
H. Reynaud & Fils - France
Violette Absolute
Violet Abs.
Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd. - U.K.
Iris Moss
Hermani Ex-Imp Corp. - India
AROMATIC PERFUMERY CHEMICALS
Alpha Ionone
Ionone 100 %
 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet
BOOK # 2 ( I - Z )
IPRA Fragrances - France
Ionone Total
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Methyl Ionone Totale
IFF - USA
Ionone 100 %
Ionone Alpha
Ionone Alpha Beta Regular
Ionone Beta
Methyl Ionone Gamma A
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure
Orivone
Violiff
JC Buck Ltd. - U.K.
Violette Feuilles Egyptian Abs.
Joint American Ventures - USA
Ionone 100 %
Methyl Ionone Alpha
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Kao Corporation - Japan
Irotyl
Methyl Ionone Gamma
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Kato Aromatic S.A.E. - Egypt
Violet Leaves Concrete
Viola Odorata
Violet Leaves Absolute
Viola Odorata
Kuber Impex Ltd. - India
Banafshah, Wild Violet
Viola Odorata
Orris
Iris Germanica
Laboratoire Monique Remy - France Violet Leaf Abs. MD
Violet Leaves Abs. Egypt
Lluche Essence - Spain
SYNTHETIC AROMA CHEMICALS
Ionone
Irone Alfa
Ivyal
Methyl Ionone
Methyl Ionone - Alfa
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Methyl Ionone Iso Super Alfa
Methyl Ionone Soap
Methyl Octine Carbonate
Lothar Streek - Germany
Ionantheme 100 %
Ionone Beta
Irisone Alpha
Irisone Pure
Irone Alpha
471
Methyl Octyne Carbonate
Undecatriene 10 %
M.X.D. Enterprise System - Korea
Orris Concrete 8 %
Orris Concrete 15 %
Orris Oil Liquid Concentrated
ABSOLUTES
Orris Abs. Extra
Violet Leaf Abs.
Violet Leaf Abs. Extra
Violet Leaf Egyptian Abs. Extra
Mane SA - France
Orris Abs. - Morocco
Orris Butter - Morocco
Violet Leaf Abs. - France
Violet Leaf Concrete
ABSOFLOR
Orris Absoflor
Violet Leaf Absoflor
MelChem Distribution - USA
Ionone Alpha Nat.
Ionone Beta Nat.
Ionone Mixture Nat.
Moelhausen S.p.A. - Italy
Orris Resinoid
 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet Leaf Abs. Ionona St. Iris Givco 204/2

Iris Concrete ( Orris ) Irisone Alpha
Moraflor Produits - France Iris Anthene Irone Alpha
Irival Isoraldeine 70
Violet Oil M/F Irone Alfa Isoraldeine 95

Muller & Koster - France Metil Ionone Gamma Methyl Octyne Carbonate

Violetta Assoluta Polarome International - USA Undecatriene 10 %

Viola Odorata
Violet Leaf Abs. Robertet SA - France
PCAS - France
Premier Chemical Corp. - India Orris Concrete Natural
WOODY Orris Concrete Natural Essence
Beta Ionone ( P/G)
Irisone Crystals Violet Leaves Abs.
Methyl Ionone
Payan Bertrand SA - France Rosetta Enterprises, LLC - USA
Prima Fleur - USA
Violet Egypt Abs. Orris Concrete FCC
Violet French Abs. Orris Select
Iris Pallida Albania SIpA A. Ch. Berthier - France
Penta Manufacturing - USA
Violet Leaf Abs. Kao Corporation - Japan
AROMATIC CHEMICALS Viola Odorata Egypt
Irotyl
Ionone Privi Organics Ltd. - India
Ionone - Alpha SRS Aromatics Ltd. - U.K.
Ionone - Beta Ionone 100 %
Irisox 511 M
Peter Jarvis Cosmetic - U.K. Methyl Ionone
ABSOLUTES
HERBAL EXTRACTS Puressence Wuersten Inc. - Switz.
Violet Leaves Abs.
Violet EG Violet Leaves Concrete Violet Leaves Abs. Egypt A

Petit Marie - Brazil Quality Analysis Ltd. - U.K. RESINOIDS

Violeta Folhas Abs. Violet Leaf Abs. - France Orris Resinoid S.B.A.

AROMATIC CHEMICALS Rai Ingredients - Brazil EXTRACTS

Ionona Alfa Hol. Ionantheme 100 % Orris ( Iris, Lily )

Ionona Beta Ionone Beta

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

AROMA CHEMICALS Taytonn Pte Ltd. - Singapore Ungerer & Company - USA

Alpha Ionone IFF - USA Orris Concrete FCC

Ionone AB Ionone 100 % Ventos, Ernesto S.A. - Spain

Ionone Alpha
Methyl Ionone Gamma Ionone Beta ABSOLUTES
Methyl Ionone Terpenes
Methyl Ionone Extra Iris Abs. 75 %
Shanghai M & U Ltd. - China Methyl Ionone Gamma A
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme NATURAL AROMATICS
Natural Aroma Chemicals
Militiz Aromatics Ionone Alpha 50 %
Alpha Ionone Ionone Beta 50 %
Alpha Ionone 70
Shreeji Aroma - India Alpha Ionone 80 IFF - USA
Alpha Ionone 90
Alpha Ionone Ionone Alpha
Thailand Institute - Thailand Irival
Methyl Ionone
ESSENTIAL OILS BY COUNTRY Kao Corp. - Japan
Sundial Fragrances & Flavors - USA
France Irotyl
Ionone Alpha
Ionone Beta Violet Leaf Abs. AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Sunrose Aromatics - USA Treatt USA Inc. - USA Alpha Irone - Givaudan

Orris Root Concrete 8 % ESSENTIAL OIL MAP OF THE WORLD Ionone 100 % - IFF
Ionone Alpha - IFF
Synarome - France Europe Ionone Beta - IFF

Iris Concretarome 2900 France Methyl Ionone

Iris V
Irisarome Violet Violiff - IFF

Takasago International Corp. - Japan Italy Venus Enterprises Ltd. - U.K.

a-Ionone Orris Alpha Ionone

a-Ionone Extra
Trisenx, Inc. - USA Beta Ionone
b-Ionone
Alpha - Ionone

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Walsh, John D. Co., Inc. - USA

ABSOLUTE

Violet Leaf Abs.

AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Ionone Alpha Beta

Ionone Alpha Regular
Ionone Alpha White Coeur
Ionone Beta, Pure
Irival

Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra

Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Methyl Ionone Extra
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Methyl Ionone Gamma Extra
Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure
Methyl Ionone Regular

Wambesco Gmbh - Denmark

ABSOLUTE

Violet Leaves Absolute

AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Alpha Iso Methyl Ionone

Alpha Iso Methyl Ionone pure

Beta Ionone

Methyl Ionone
Methyl Ionone Gamma pure

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet Notes

Alpha Ionone Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive.

Alpha Ionone 60 Mild floral violet odor.

Alpha Ionone White Coeur Floral violet like.

Alvanone Extra Rich natural woody violet odor with walnut creamy undertone.

Alvanone G Similar to the extra but woodier and less creamy.

Beta Ionone Warm woody dry odor with a fruity undertone.

Beta Ionone R Dry powdery, floral, woody, orris.

Cetonal Is an elegant ingredient used in woody, orris accords as well as with

leather, tobacco and animal notes where it acts as an excellent
blending agent and adds to the harmony of a fragrance.

Cetone Alpha Tenacious floral violet compound.

Cetone V Has many facets to its character and thus has many uses. It blends
well with ionones, citrus notes, lavender, fruity and oriental accords
where it adds body and excellent diffusion.

Ionantheme 100 % Is used largely in floral, violet bouquets, but also in fruit accords to
provide volume and substantivity. Is fruitier and less woody than
either Irisone Alpha or Irisone pure.

Ionol Alpha Berry, sweet ionone like with a woody floral powdery note.

Ionol Beta Sweet, woody berry powdery, floral and fruity.Ionone

Warm, balsamic, violet floral.

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Ionone Alpha Floral, violet, woody fruity.

Ionone Alpha Extra Floral violet.

Ionone Alpha Beta Regular Warm, woody more violet, alpha ionone 60%, beta ionone 30%.

Ionone Alpha Methyl C Floral violet.

Ionone Alpha Methyl Naphyl A very faint slightly sweet floral violet type odor.

Ionone Alpha Refined Fruity, woody violet, fresher, alpha Ionone 81%, beta ionone 9%.

Ionone Alpha Regular Warm, woody violet, alpha ionone 70%, beta ionone 30%.

Ionone Alpha White Coeur Floral violet.

Ionone Beta Pure More fruity, and woody like than alpha.

Ionone 100 % Violet odor with a suggestion of cedarwood and orris.

Inonyl Acetate Fruity top note, characteristics of linalyl and terpinyl acetate.

Ionyl Beta Acetate Natural raspberry note.

Inonyl Formate Extra Powerful herbal floral.

Iraldein Delta Floral violet as well as with dry powdery iris nuances.

Iraldein Gamma Sweetly floral like violet slightly fruity like fig and raspberry.

Iraldeine Beta Woody warm odor.

Iraldeine Delta Light and warm woody floral sometimes ambergris odor.

Iraldein 100% Pleasant floral like violet as well as somewhat woody.

Iralia A very pure orris or violet note of powdery woody character.

Iris Aldehyde Extremely powerful, and diffusive orisy odor.

Iris Beurre Essence Orris violet.

Iris Beurre Oil Orris violet.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Iris Concrete Woody oily violet like odor.

Iris Concrete 8 % Irone Orris, violet leaf like green odor.

Iris Concrete 11 % Irone Orris, violet leaf like green odor.

Iris Concrete 199 KSA Woody fatty oily but distinctly violet floral.

Iris Givco 204/2
This is a floral base specifically designed to match the scent of orris
absolute for use in functional applications. This reconstitution reflects the
different facets of natural orris absolute: gourmand, floral, woody and
powdery. Iris Givco 204/2 acts as a modifier of Iso Raldeine 70 and Ionone
Beta, boosting and imparting sparkling and vibrant effects to them. It also
blends beautifully with floral-green accords and enriches woody/chypre
themes. This base does not lead to discoloration. Cost-effective, natural-
smelling and stable replacement for orris absolute

Iris Noir Abs. Violet floral orris like.

Irisodor Violet floral.

Irisone Alpha Widely used in perfume compositions of almost all types. The use
of the fragrances in rose bases is very common. It is used in woody,
floral, balsamic, piney or citrus-like fragrances.

Irisone Pure Widely used in perfumes designed for functional products. Its
powerful, rich, floral-violet character is easy to blend with many
floral, woody, aldehydic, fruity and chypre accords.

Iris 199 D Wax like mass of woody, but distinctly violet odor.

Iris 199/K SA A reconstitution of iris concrete.

Iris 199 SA A reconstitution of iris absolute.

Iris Resin Deep sweet slightly woody tobacco like.

Iris Resinoid Oily woody violet like.

Iritone A velvety floral note in the violet ionone family.

Irival Concentrated orris note.

Irone Alpha Refined Soft warm orris violet like sweet and diffusive.

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Isoraldeine 70 Has a fine, rich violet note, but its character is more orris-like and
dry than Iso Raldeine 95. Often used in flowery, woody, spicy oriental
accords. Brings volume and diffusion to fine blends.

Isoraldeine 95 Has a fine violet note, often used in flowery, woody spicy and
oriental accords. Brings volume and diffusion to compounds,
and has a more powdery skin care effect.

Mahagonate Woody spicy resembling patchouli, vetiver and sandalwood iris.

Merion Highly diffusive floral, oriental woody complex with violet note.

Methyl Ionone Warm, woody floral violet lasts several days.

Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Orris violet floral.

Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Floral, violet, isomeric mixture.

Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso Precious wood tobacco, creamy violet.

Methyl Ionone Alpha 60 Floral, violet, isomeric mixture.

M I A Iso Super FM1110 A sophisticated product in which the violet florality is enhanced.

Methyl Ionone Beta Woody warm odor.

Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur Purer grade more woody, and warm.

Methyl Ionone Extra Mild floral odor of violets.

Methyl Ionone Extra 500 Floral, woody, violet.

Methyl Ionone Gamma A A floral violet woody isomeric mixture.

Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur Woody, floral violet.

Methyl Ionone Gamma Extra Mild floral odor of violets.

Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure Woody, floral violet, dry.

Methyl Ionone Gamma Replacer Familiar woody floral complex, tobacco like undertone.

Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme Floral violet woody fruity complex.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Methyl Ionone Regular Mild floral odor of violets.

Methyl Ionone Regular 450 Violet, woody.

Methyl Ionone Residue Harsh floral violet slightly woody.

Methyl Ionone Tails A harsh woody floral violet odor, reminiscent of ionone beta.

Methyl Ionone Terpenes Harsh woody solvent masking odor.

Methyl Octine Carbonate Green violet leaf like.

Methyl Octine Carbonate Sub. An unrestricted and safe replacement.

Methyl Octyne Carbonate Widely used in floral notes. It produces the powerful yet subtle note
of violet leaves with a fruity-vegetable cucumber undertone.

Neofolione Blends very well with most floral notes, especially violet, where it
is particularly useful in replacing Folione. It imparts freshness and
diffusion and has good stability.

Nonadienal Blends well in green top note accords. Used as a modifier it imparts
a natural violet leaf aspect.

2,6 Nonadien 1 OL Cucumber or violet flower odor.

2, 6, Nonadienal # 332 Intense powerful vegetable green, reminiscent of violet leaves.

2, 6 Nonad 1 al Diethyl Acetal Smooth floral violet, melon odor.

Nonadienol A constituent of violet leaves as well as of cucumber. Is effective in a

wide range of applications in adding a natural melon-cucumber note.
It is olfactively similar to Nonadienal, but is fruitier and less leafy.

Orriniff 25 % IPM Floral, violet, orris leather.

Orris Abs. A floral green violet like odor.

Orris Augaflor 13 This beautiful orris blend has all of the orris characteristics, warm in the
top note, cascading into a sea of violet, thus extending the perfumer’s art
to include this delicate fragrance.

Orris Concrete Floral violet.

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Orris Concrete Natural Oily violet leaf like.

Orris Conc. Natural Essence Violet floral.

Orris Extract Waxy sweet floral violet with berry woody nuances.

Orris Oil Floral violet.

Orris Resin Abs. Floral violet.

Orris Resinoid A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.

Parmavert Powerful floral green, sweet and violet leaf like.

Pseudo M I Terpenes A harsh floral violet like odor.

Raldeine A GV A special quality of methyl ionone containing larger amounts of

the n-alpha greater 50 %, and n-beta typically 15 %. The result
is a woodier, fruitier olfactive character.

Rhuboflor Powerful green note, fruity floral and herbal, undertone orris.

Violet A favorite in Sufi healing since a hadith of the Prophet states that
"the excellence of the extract is above all others extracts as the
excellence of me is above all of the rest of creation". A shy yet
deep and early scent for quiet beauties.

Violet Abs. French Strong herbaceous floral violet.

Violet Abs. Rue Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the French oil.

Violet Abs. Selection Strong floral violet odor.

Violet Augaflor 27 A fresh, green, violet odour. Long lasting, with a wonderful deep
green odour.

Violet Colorless 54.5219 Herbaceous floral odor of the violet.

Violet Concrete Characteristic of fresh violet leaves with a possible source in Egypt.

Violet Leaf Absolute Oily green cucumber leafy fresh sweet floral odor quite strong.

Violet Leaf Abs. N.Y. 11149 Green floral violet, very subtle slightly sweet.

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet Leaves Abs. Powerful green leaf odor delicately floral note reminiscent violet.

Violet Leaves Abs. Green, melon floral, fresh waxy and leafy.

Violet Leaf Abs. Slightly violet, not strong or sweet.

Violiff Floral, violet, banana.

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Muskylein 1 Orange Flower Augustus 17

46 Coumane 36 Geraniol Prime
9 Vanillin .1 The
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 4 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Ethiopia 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
25 Tonalid II - Pfw 10 Laurine
2 Amberfleur 3 Nerol
6 Benzyle Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Rose Crystals 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
10 Amyris Oil W.I. 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Orivone 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
117 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Tea Essence
19 Benzyl Propionate 1 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Eugenyl Acetate
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Irotyl 6 Aldehyde C - 14
7 Vanillinethyl 3 Iso Eugenol
8 Aquanol 1 Muguet Aldehyde
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Fleuramone
5 Meijiff .2 Geranyl Acetate
89 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Vanilla Resinoid
8 Hydrofix R
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol ( DPG)
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1,000
3 Methyl Dianthanol
21 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone
4 Lioral
2 Iris Beurre Oil
24 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG
57 Benzyl Acetate Nat.
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Irisone Bis
5 Citronellol 98 %
3 y - Irone
482

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Sandela 1 Orange Flower Augustus 17

42 Coumane 36 Geraniol Prime
9 Vanillin .1 Mirabelle 2000 D
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 4 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Ethiopia 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
25 Ethylene Brassylate 10 Hidroxicitronelal
2 Amberfleur 3 Nerol
6 Benzyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Rose Crystals 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
9 Amyris Oil W.I. 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Orivone 1 Iso Rose
117 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Tea Essence
19 Benzyl Propionate 1 Petitgrain Oil
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Eugenyl Acetate
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Iritone V 6 Aldehyde C - 14
7 Vanillinethyl 3 Iso Eugenol
8 Aquanol 1 Muguet Aldehyde
22 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Fleur de Rose
1 Muguet Aldehyde .2 Geranyl Acetate
95 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Vanilla Resinoide
8 Hydrofix R
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol ( DPG)
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1,000
3 Methyl Dianthanol
26 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone
4 Lioral
2 Iris Beurre Oil
24 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG
57 Benzyl Acetate Nat.
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Irisone Bis
5 Citronellol 98 %
3 Irone
483

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

2 Muskylein 1 Orange Flower Augustus 17

46 Coumane 36 Geraniol Prime
9 Vanillin .1 Violet Leaves
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 4 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Ethiopia 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
25 Serenolide 10 Hydroxycitronellol
2 Amberone 3 Nerol
6 Benzyle Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
2 Rose Crystals 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
11 Amyris Oil W.I. 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
2 Orivone 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
117 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Tea Essence
19 Benzyl Propionate 1 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Eugenyl Acetate
13 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Irotyl 6 Aldehyde C - 14
7 Vanillinethyl 3 Iso Eugenol
8 Aquanol 1 Muguet Aldehyde
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Fleuramone
5 Meijiff .2 Geranyl Acetate
90 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Vamba
8 Hydrofix R
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol ( DPG)
310 Di Propylene Glycol 1,000
3 Methyl Dianthanol
21 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone
4 Lioral
2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
24 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG
57 Benzyl Acetate Nat.
8 Bois Amberene Forte
.1 Alcohol C - 9
15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Ionone Alpha 60
5 Citronellol ( 980 Pure )
3 y - Irone
484

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 1d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Musk Ambrette Substitute 1 Orange Flower Augustus 17

46 Coumrina 36 Geraniol 970
9 Vanillin .1 The
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 4 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civette Givco 73 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
25 Musk 50 DPG 10 Laurine
2 Amberfleur 3 Nerol
6 Benzyle Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Rose Crystals 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
10 Santalox T Neat 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Orivone 1 Meranol
117 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Tea Essence
19 Benzyl Propionate 1 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
6 Benzyl Acetate 2 Eugenyl Acetate
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Irotyl 6 Aldehyde C - 14
7 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Iso Raldeine 70
8 Aquanol 1 Muguet Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Isoeugenol
5 Meijiff .2 Geranyl Acetate FCC
89 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar
8 Hydrofix R
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol ( DPG)
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1,000
3 Pepperwood
21 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone
4 Lioral
2 Iris Beurre Oil
24 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG
57 Benzylacetate
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Irisone, alpha
5 Citronellol 98 %
3 Irone, alpha
485

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 1e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Musc R - 1 1 Orange Flower Augustus 17

46 Coumane 36 Geraniol Prime
9 Vanillin .1 The
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 9 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Ethiopia 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
25 Muscomer 810 P 10 Laurine
2 Amberfleur 3 Nerol
6 Benzyle Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Rose Crystals 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
6 Methyl Benzoate .8 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
10 Amyris Oil W.I. 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Orivone 1 Rose Oil M/F
117 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Tea Earl Gray
19 Benzyl Salciylate 1 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Eugenyl Acetate
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Irotyl 6 Aldehyde C - 14
7 Vanillinethyl 3 Eugenyl Acetate
4 Fruitaleur 1 Muguet Aldehyde
24 Eugenol 100 % 1 Fleuramone
5 Lyrame Super .2 Geranyl Acetate
92 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Vanilla Resinoid
8 Hydrofix R
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol ( DPG)
310 Di Propylene Glicol 1,000
3 Methyl Dianthanol
21 Rose Substitute
3 Bnezophenone
4 Liral
2 Methyl Ionone
24 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG
52 Acetato Benzila
8 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
15 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
5 Citronellol 98 %
3 alpha - Ionone Extra
486

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Iso E Super 7 Geranyl Acetate

5 Amberfleur 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur
3 Rose Crystals 3 Citronellol
12 Sandiff 9 Orange Blossom Base
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1 Rose Acetate
49 Musk 50 DPG 3 Jasilyn
3 Amborate 9 Wardia Substitute
8 Givescone 6 Cassis Bourgenons
4 Ethyl Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Alpha Damascone 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
51 Benzyl Acetate 4 Vert de Cassis Givco
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Neroli Oliffac
3 Santalol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Cananga Odorata
26 Eugenol 9 Hydroxyciol
1 Jasmone .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
5 Galbanum Resinoid 3 Roseiff
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 25 Linalol S 97
6 Lioral 4 Neroli - Comores Island
3 Myraldyl Acetate 6 Myraldyl Acetate
10 Rose Substitute 3 Iralia
5 Hedione 2 Phyllos
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Orange Oil Florida ( Sweet ) C.P.
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
1 Damascenone
38 Geraniol Nat.
18 Hydroxycitronellol
1 Rose - Bulgaria
.1 Alcohol C - 9
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol

487

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Brahmanol 7 Geranyl Acetate

5 Amberfleur 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur
3 Rose Crystals 3 Citronellol
12 Sandiff 12 Orange Blossom Base
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1 Rose Acetate
49 Musk 50 DPG 3 Jasilyn
3 Amborate 9 Wardia Substitute
8 Serenolide 6 Cassis Bourgenons
4 Ethyl Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Alpha Damascone 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
51 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 4 Vert de Cassis Givco
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Neroli Oliffac
3 Santalol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Cananga Odorata
26 Eugenol 9 Muguesia
1 Jasmone .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
5 Galbanum Resinoid 3 Roseiff
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 26 Linalol ex Ho Wood Oil
6 Lioral 4 Neroli - Comores Island
3 Myraldyl Acetate 6 Myraldyl Acetate
10 Rose Substitute 3 Iridales
5 Iso Jasmon 1 Phyllos
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 8 Orange Douce - Dulcos Trading
6 Lily Aldehyde
2 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
1 Damascenone
38 Geraniol 60
13 Hydroxycitronellol
1 Rose - Bulgaria
.1 Alcohol C - 10
23 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol

488

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Iso E Super 7 Geranyl Acetate Nat.

5 Amberfleur 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur
3 Rose Crystals 3 Citronellol
12 Sandiff 9 Orange Blossom Base
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1 Rose Acetate
39 Musk 50 DPG 3 Apple Juice Givco
3 Amborate 11 Wardia Substitute
8 Traseolide 6 Cassifix
4 Ethyl Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Alpha Damascone 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
51 Benzyl Acetate 4 Vert de Cassis Givco
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Neroli Oliffac
3 Geranium Oil Std .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
23 Eugenol 9 Hydroxyciol
1 Jasmone .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
5 Galbanum Resinoid 3 Roseiff
88 Ionone Intermediate Base 25 Linalol S 97
6 Lioral 2 Neroli - Comores Island
3 Myraldyl Acetate 6 Myraldyl Acetate
10 Rose Substitute 3 Iritone V
5 Hedione 2 Jasilyn
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Lemon Oils
6 Ionone Alpha Refined
2 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
1 Damascenone
38 Geraniol
16 Hydroxycitronellol
1 Roseiff - IFF
.1 Alcohol C - 9
24 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol

489

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 2d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Sandalwood Substitute 7 Geranyl Acetate

5 Amberfleur 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur
3 Rose Crystals 3 Citronellol 98 %
12 Sandalore 9 Orange Blossom Base
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1 Iris Givco 2/4/2
49 Musk 50 DPG 3 Vioris
3 Amborate 9 Wardia Substitute
8 Cashmeran 6 Cassis Bourgenons
4 Ethyl Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Alpha Damascone 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
51 Benzyl Acetate 4 Vert de Cassis Givco
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Neroli Oliffac
3 Iononyl Acetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Cananga Odorata
26 Eugenol 9 Hydroxyciol
1 Hedione .1 Iris
5 Galbanum Resinoid 3 Roseiff
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 25 Linalool Coeur
6 Ivyal 4 Neroli - Comores Island
3 Myraldyl Acetate 6 Myraldyl Acetate
10 Rose Substitute 3 Ionone
5 Hedione 2 Phyllos
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Mandarinal ( Red ) - c.c.c. Italy
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
1 Jasilyn
38 Geraniol ex Palmarosa
8 Hydroxycitronelloldimethylacetal
1 Damascenone
.1 Alcohol C - 9
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol

490

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 2e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Kephalis 7 Geranyl Acetate

5 Amberfleur 38 Linalyl Acetate Pur
3 Benzophenone 3 Citronellol
12 Osyrol 9 Orange Blossom Base
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1 Rose Acetate
49 Musk 50 DPG 3 Orris Resinoid
3 Amborate 9 Wardia Substitute
8 Givescone 6 Cassis Bourgenons
4 Ethyl Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Beta Damascone 8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
51 Benzyl Acetate 4 Vert de Cassis Givco
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Neroli Oliffac
3 Santalol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
101 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 Cananga Odorata
26 Eugenol 9 Laurine Extra - Givaudan
1 Jasmone .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
5 Galbanum Resinoid 3 Roseiff
95 Ionone Intermediate Base 25 Linalol S 97
6 Irone V 4 Neroli - Comores Island
3 Myraldyl Acetate 6 Myraldyl Acetate
10 Rose Substitute 3 Irone V
5 Hedione 2 Phyllos
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Orange Oil of Texas ( Ruby Red )
6 Hyacinth Body No. 3
2 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
1 Damascenone
38 Geraniol Nat.
8 Hydroxycitronellal 55 Pure
1 Rose - Bulgaria
.1 Vioris
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol

491

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide 24 Linalol 98 %
7 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Citronellol 99 %
48 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
8 Chandanone 4 Iso Raldeine 70
22 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanillin 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Cashmeran 27 Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % ) Pur
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
14 Lyral 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 18
6 Vanilys .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nerol
2 Rose Cristals 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Irisone - Mixed Isomers 1 Floranton T
5 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
129 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Petilyn
28 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbaniff
53 Benzylacetate 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 09 1 Ionone
5 Caraway Oil - Holland 1 Tuberose Oliffac
73 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
2 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
1 Beta Damascone 1 Alpha Damascone
2 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Muguet Alcohol
9 Methyl Ionone - Alfa 35 Linalyl Acetate
17 Lioral .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Nerolin Crystals
.1 Rosalva 1,000
28 Musk 50 DPG

492

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Iris Moss 24 Linalol 99 %

7 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Citronellol Select
48 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
7 Sandasweet 4 Iso Raldeine 95
22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanillin 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 27 Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % ) Pur
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
14 Lyral 4 Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 22
6 Vanilys - Pfw .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nerol
2 Rose Cristals 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Methyl Ionone Iso Super Alfa 1 Floranton T
5 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
123 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Petilyn
29 Eugenol 3 Cyclogalbodor
54 Benzyl Acetate Prime 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 09 1 Ionone
5 Caraway Oil - Holland 1 Tuberose Oliffac
79 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
2 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
1 Beta Damascone 1 Alpha Damascone
2 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Muguet Alcohol
9 Methyl Ionone - Alfa 35 Linalyl Acetate
17 Lioral .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Ionone 100 %
.1 Orris Absoflor 1,000
28 Macrolide

493

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Iris Moss 24 Linalol

7 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Citronellol 99 %
48 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
7 Sandasweet 4 Iris Germanica
22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanillin 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 27 Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % ) Pur
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
14 Lyrame 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 22
6 Vanilys - Pfw .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nerol
2 Rose Cristals 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Methyl Ionone Iso Super Alfa 1 Floranton T
5 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia - Firmenich
113 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Petilyn
29 Eugenol 3 Cassis Fragrance B
54 Benzyl Acetate Prime 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 09 1 Ionone
5 Caraway Oil - Holland 1 Iso Rose
89 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
2 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
1 Damascenone 1 Irisone Pure
2 Ethyl, Vanillin 2 Muguet Alcohol
9 Methyl Ionone - Alfa 35 Linalyl Acetate
17 Lioral .3 Bois Amberene Forte
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Ionone 100 %
.1 Violet Leaf Absoflor 1,000
28 Serenolide

494

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 3d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Orris Resinoid 24 Linalol Pur

11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 5 Citronellol 99 %
48 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musk Emeressence
19 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
7 Amyris Oil W.I. 4 Iso Raldeine 70
22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanillin 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 27 Geraniol
3 Fleuramone 1 Ylang Givco 225
4 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 4 Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 22
6 Vanillin .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nerol
2 Roseone 2 Styralyl Acetate
1 Methyl Ionone Iso Super Alfa 1 Floranton T
5 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
123 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Violet Augaflor 27
25 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Cyclogalbodor
54 Acetate Benzila 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 09 1 Ionone 100 %
5 Cinnamalva 1 Tuberose Oliffac
89 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Geranyl Acetate FCC
2 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
1 Beta Damascone 1 Alpha Damascone
2 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Muguet Alcohol
9 Methyl Ionone - Alfa 35 Linalyl Acetate
17 Lioral .3 Bourgeons De Cassis
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Ionone Alpha Refined
.1 Orris Absoflor 1,000
28 Musk R - 1

495

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 3e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Iris Moss 22 Trinalol

7 Hercolyn - D 5 Citronellol C
48 Coumarina 10 Orange Blossom Substitute
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Musc 50 BB
39 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
7 Sandasweet 4 Irisone Bis
22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Orange Flower Water
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 27 Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % ) Pur
3 Fleuramone 2 Ylang Givco 229
14 Lyral 4 Iso Eugenol
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flower Augustus 22
6 Vanilys - Pfw .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nerol
2 Rose Cristals 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Methyl Ionone Iso Super Alfa 1 Floranton T
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Wardia
123 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 y - Irone
29 Eugenol 100 % 4 Galbanodor
54 Hedione 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 09 1 Ionone Alpha Refined
4 Caraway Oil - Holland 1 Tuberose Oliffac
79 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
2 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
1 Beta Damascone 1 Beta Damascone
2 Balsam Peru Oliffac 1 Muguet Alcohol
9 Ionone, Alpha 35 Linalyl Acetate
17 Lilial .3 Vert de Cassis Givco
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 alpha - Ionone Extra
.1 Orris Absoflor 1,000
8 Musk 781

496

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Iso E Super 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

49 CouMarin 1 Syringa
1 Civet Tincture 9 Orange Blossom Base
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 15 Wardia
37 Globanone 3 Apple Blossom
4 Amber Core - Kao Corp. - Japan 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
7 Vanillin 2 Iris Beurre Oil
2 Heliotropine 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
76 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Thymol Crystals .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Lilial 1 Iso - Eugenol
17 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Meranol
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Vert de Cassis Givco
5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Petilyn
7 Vanillinethyl .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Methyl Benzoate 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Folrosa Q 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Nutmeg W.I.
3 Citronellol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Mallow 1 Ionone Mixture Nat.
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. Extra 18 Linalyl Acetate
21 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
109 Ionone Intremediate Base
20 Geraniol 970 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Alpha Ionol
5 Hydroxycitronellal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol
.7 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
4 Anisic Aldehyde Di Methyl Acetal
.1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate

497

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Iso E Super 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

46 Coumane 1 Syringa
1 Civet Tincture 9 Orange Blossom Base
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 15 Wardia
37 Globanone 3 Apple Juice Givco 73
4 Rionyl 4 Orange Flower Augaflor 19
7 Vanillin 2 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
2 Heliotropine 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
76 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Thymol Crystals .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Laurine Extra 1 Iso - Eugenol
17 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Meranol
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Vert de Cassis Givco
5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Petilyn
7 Ethyl Vanillin .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Methyl Benzoate 13 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Folrosa Q 3 Methyl Octyl Ketone
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Nutmeg W.I.
3 Citronellol - l .1 Violet Leaves Abs.
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Mallow 1 Iso - Raldeine 70
.1 Orris Abs. - Morocco 18 Linalyl Acetate
21 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
109 Ionone Intremediate Base
20 Geraniol 970 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Methyl Ionone Supreme
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Alpha Ionol
4 Hidroxicitronelal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 Linalol
.7 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
4 Anisic Aldehyde Di Methyl Acetal
.1 Violiff

498

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Iso E Super 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

49 CouMarin 1 Syringa
1 Civet Tincture 9 Orange Blossom Base
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 15 Wardia
37 Globanone 3 Apple Oliffac
4 Patchouli Amber 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
7 Vanillin 2 Iris Beurre Oil
2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
76 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Hysimal
1 Thyme ( White / Red ) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Lilial 1 Iralia
17 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Meranol
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Vert de Cassis Givco
5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Lioral
7 Ethyl Vanillin .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Methyl Benzoate 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Carnaline 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Nutmeg W.I.
3 Citronellol 96 % .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Iso Eugenol
7 Mallow 1 Ionone Mixture Nat.
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. Extra 18 Linalylacetate
21 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
109 Ionone Intremediate Base
20 Geraniol 970 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasilyn
12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Fleuramone
5 Hydroxycitronellal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol
.7 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
4 Anisic Aldehyde Di Methyl Acetal
.1 Iris Concrete Synthetic 199 L

499

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 4d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Rhodiantal 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

49 Coumane 1 Syringa
1 Civet Tincture 9 Orange Blossom Base
31 Phthalate D’Ethyl 15 Wardia
37 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DPG 3 Apple Blossom
4 Amberonne 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
7 Vanillin 2 Iris Beurre Oil
2 Rhodiascent 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
72 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Thymol Crystals .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Lilial 1 Iso - Eugenol
17 Etilen Brassilato 1 Meranol
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Vert de Cassis Givco
5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Petilyn
7 Vanillinethyl .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Methyl Benzoate 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Iris Givco 204/2 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Nutmeg W.I.
3 Citronellol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Scennal 1 Ionone Mixture Nat.
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. Extra 18 Linalyl Acetate
21 Benzyl Acetate FCC
114 Ionone Intremediate Base
20 Geraniol 970 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Iso Jasmone
12 Ionone Alpha Refined
7 Alcohol Phenyl Ethyl
4 Velvione - Citral Oleos Essenciais
5 Hidroxicitronelal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol
.7 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
4 Anisic Aldehyde Di Methyl Acetal
.1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate

500

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 4e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Brahmanol 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

49 CouMarin 1 Terpineol
1 Civet Powder # 2b 9 Orange Blossom Base
32 Phthalate D’Ethyl 15 Wardia
37 Globanone 3 Apple Blossom
4 Amber Fleur 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 21
7 Vanillin 2 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
2 Heliotropine 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
76 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Iralia Total
1 Thyme Oil Red .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Lilial 1 Iso - Eugenol
17 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Meranol
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Vert de Cassis Givco
5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Ionone
7 Vanillinethyl .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
2 Methyl Benzoate 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Lyral 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Nutmeg W.I.
3 Citronellol .1 Undecavertol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Mallow 1 Ionone Mixture Nat.
.1 Violet Leaf Abs. 17 Linalyl Acetate
21 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
109 Ionone Intremediate Base
20 Geraniol 60 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Iso Jasmone
12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Irisone Bis
5 Hydroxycitronellal
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Linalol
.7 Perryfix - Symrise
4 Hawthorn
.1 Ionone

501

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 7 Orange Flor Deco

8 Sandalwood Oliffac .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civet Abs. 6 Cassis Fragrance F
3 Heliotropine .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Geraniol 600
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Methyl Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
5 Bangalo 2 Eugenyl Acetate
9 Vanillin 3 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Polarose 17 Tuberose Substitute
21 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Iris Beure Oil
11 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Ivyal 3 y - Irone
59 Benzyl Acetate Pure 10 Orange Blossom Base
97 Muguet Base 4 Wardia
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
35 Geraniol 60 1 2 - Undecanone
8 Hydroxycitronellol .4 Alcohol C - 10
1 Rosone 2 Sandalwood FM 1068
92 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Iritone V
4 Lyral 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
21 Eugenol 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
6 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Florymoss
4 Hidroxicitronelol 24 Linalyl Acetate
1 Palmarosa Oil - India 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
311 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Jacintheme 1,000
.1 Nonadienal
13 Citronellol 850
1 Iso Jasmone
33 Linalol 98 %
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Mallow
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

502

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 7 Aurantiol

8 Sandalwood Oliffac .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civet Ethiopian 6 Cassis Fragrance F
3 Heliotropine .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Geraniol 600
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Methyl Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
5 Bangalo 2 Eugenyl Acetate
9 Vanillin 3 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Rosalva 17 Tuberose Substitute
21 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
11 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Ivyal 3 y - Irone
59 Benzyl Acetate Pure 10 Orange Blossom Base
97 Muguet Base 4 Wardia
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
35 Geraniol 60 1 2 - Undecanone
8 Hydroxycitronellol .4 Alcohol C - 10
1 Roseone 2 Sandalwood FM 1068
92 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Irone Alpha
4 Raldeine A GV 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
21 Carnation Base 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
6 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Florymoss
4 Hidroxicitronelol 24 Linalyl Acetate
1 Palmarosa Oil - India 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
311 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Jacintheme 1,000
.1 Folione
13 Citronellol Pur
1 Iso Jasmone
33 Linalol 98 %
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Mallow
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

503

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Orange Flor Deco

8 Sandalwood Oliffac .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civet Abs. 6 Vert de Cassis Givco 47
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Vioris
55 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Methyl Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
1 Sandiff 2 Eugenyl Acetate
9 Vanillin 3 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Polarose 17 Tuberose Substitute
21 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Iris Beure Essence
11 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Ivyal 3 y - Irone
56 Benzyl Acetate Pure 10 Orange Blossom Base
97 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 4 Wardia
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
35 Geraniol 60 1 2 - Undecanone
8 Hydroxycitronellal 55 Pur .4 Alcohol C - 10
1 Rosone 2 Anthea Sandal Coeur
98 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 alpha - Ionone Extra
4 Lyral 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
21 Eugenol 3 Amyl Salicylate
6 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Thesaron
2 Hidroxicitronelol 23 Linalyl Acetate
1 Palmarosa Oil - India 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
311 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Jacintheme 1,000
.1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
15 Citronellol 850
1 Iso Jasmone
33 Linalol 98 %
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Mallow
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

504

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 5d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Orange Flor Deco

8 Sandalore .2 Alcohol C - 10
.1 Civet Abs. 6 Cassis Fragrance F
3 Heliotropine .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Geraniol 600
53 Musc 50 DPG 3 Methyl Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
5 Bangalo 2 Eugenyl Acetate
10 Vanillin 3 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Polarose 17 Tuberose Substitute
21 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Iris Beure Oil
11 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Ivyal 3 y - Irone
59 Benzyl Acetate Pure 10 Orange Blossom Base
97 Muguet Base 4 Wardia
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
35 Geraniol ( Fine Perfumery ) 1 2 - Undecanone
7 Hydroxycitronellol .4 Alcohol C - 10
1 Rosone 2 Amyris Oil ( West Indies )
92 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Irisone Bis
4 Lyral 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
21 Eugenol 100 % 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
6 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Florymoss
4 Hidroxicitronelol 24 Linalyl Acetate
1 Palmarosa Oil - India 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
.1 Vanilla Resinoid
311 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Iso Rose 1,000
.1 Nonadienal
13 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Iso Jasmone
33 Linalol 99 %
5 Meijiff
3 Stemone
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

505

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 5e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 7 Orange Flor Deco

8 Endanol .2 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Civet Abs. 6 Cassis Fragrance F
3 Heliotropine .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Geraniol 600
53 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Methyl Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
5 Sandalore 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 Vanillin 3 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Polarose 17 Tuberose Substitute
21 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Iris Beure Oil
6 Amyl Salicylate 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
2 Ivyal 3 Ionone Alpha
59 Benzyl Acetate Pure 10 Orange Blossom Base
91 Muguet Base 4 Wardia
14 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
35 Geraniol 60 1 2 - Undecanone
8 Hydroxycitronellol .4 Alcohol C - 10
1 Rosone 2 Sandalwood FM 1068
104 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Iritone V
3 Lyrame 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
21 Eugenol 3 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
6 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Troenan
4 Anis Aldehyde 24 Linalyl Acetate
1 Palmarosa Oil - India 1 Laurinal
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
312 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
4 Jacintheme 1,000
.1 Folione
13 Citronellol Prime
1 CIS Jasmone
33 Linalol 98 %
5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Mallow
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

506

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 6a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Orris Resinoid 3 Geranyl Acetate

6 Vanilline .2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
48 Coumane 16 Orange Blossom Base
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Rose Turkey Abs.
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 3 Irotyl
8 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
23 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Orange Oil of California ( C.P. )
2 Nerolin Crystals 25 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
3 Traseolide .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
52 Benzyl Acetate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Sandela 34 Linalool Nat.
109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
6 Helional 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
2 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Geranium Oil pure
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 2 Cassifix
5 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Rose Oil Turkey
12 Hedione 5 Lilial
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol .3 Rose Bulgarian Distilled Extra
93 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Carnaline
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Iso E Super
1 Sandalore 1 Scennal
3 alpha - Ionone 27 Linalyl Acetate
4 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
5 Gardenia 1110 7 Vioris
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
2 Citronellol 96 FCC 4 Methyl Iso Eugneol
1 Irisone Pure 3 Hydrofix R

1,000

507

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 6b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Orris Resinoid 3 Geranyl Acetate

9 Vanillin .2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
48 Coumarina 16 Orange Blossom Base
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Rose Turkey Abs.
36 Traseolide 100 Base 3 Irival
8 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Sandiff 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
23 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Orange Oil of California ( C.P. )
2 Nerolin Crystals 25 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
3 Traseolide .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
52 Benzyl Acetate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Sandalwood Oliffac 34 Linalool
99 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
6 Helional 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
2 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Geranium Orpur Italy - Givaudan
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 2 Cassifix
5 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Rose Oil Turkey
12 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Lilial
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol .3 Rose Bulgarian Distilled Extra
103 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Carnaline
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Koavonne
1 Sandalore 1 Scennal
3 Ionone Alpha Refined 27 Linalyl Acetate
4 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol Coeur
5 Gardenia 1110 7 Vioris
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Ylang Ylang I Petals
2 Citronellol 4 Methyl Iso Eugneol
1 Alpha Ionone 3 Hydrofix R

1,000

508

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 6c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Orris Resinoid 3 Geranyl Acetate

6 Vanillin .2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
48 Coumane 16 Orange Blossom Base
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Violiff
40 Ethylene Brassylate 3 Irisone Bis
8 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
13 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Orange Oil of California ( C.P. )
2 Nerolin Crystals 25 Geraniol 60
3 Cashmeran .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
52 Benzyl Acetate 1 Bois Amberene Forte
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Sandela 34 Linalol S 97
109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
6 Helional 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
2 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Neo - Geranium Oil
20 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 2 Greenarome
5 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Rose Oil Turkey
12 Benzylacetate 5 Lilial
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol .3 Rose Bulgarian Distilled Extra
113 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Carnaline
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Iso E Super
1 Sandalore 1 Scennal
3 a-Ionone Extra 27 Linalyl Acetate Synthetic
4 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 7 Vioris
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
2 Citronellol Prime 4 Rhodiascent
1 Irisone Pure 1 Laurine

1,000

509

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 6d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Orris Resinoid 3 Geranyl Acetate

6 Vanilline .2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
48 Coumane 16 Orange Blossom Base
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Rose Turkey Abs.
39 Musk Xylene Substitute 3 Irotyl
8 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
23 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Orange Oil of California ( C.P. )
2 Nerolin Crystals 25 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
3 Traseolide .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
52 Benzyl Acetate 1 Ribes Mercaptan
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Sandela 34 Linalool Nat.
109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
6 Helional 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
2 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Geranium Oil pure
21 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 2 Cassifix
5 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Rose Oil Turkey
12 Hedione 5 Lilial
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol .3 Rose Essence Abs.
93 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Carnaline
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Iso E Super
1 Sandalore 1 Petilyn
3 alpha - Ionone 27 Linalyl Acetate
4 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
5 Gardenia 1110 7 Methyl Ionone - Alpha
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
2 Citronellol 96 FCC 4 Methyl Iso Eugneol
1 Irisone Pure 3 Hydrofix L

1,000

510

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 6e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Orris Resinoid 3 Geranyl Acetate

6 Vanillia Tincture 20 % .2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
48 Coumane 16 Orange Blossom Base
23 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
29 Ethylene Brassylate 3 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
8 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Javanol 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
23 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Orange Oil of California ( C.P. )
2 Nerolin Crystals 25 Geraniol Extra Ex - Citriodora
3 Traseolide .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
52 Benzyl Acetate 1 Stemone
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Sandalore 34 Linalool Nat.
99 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
6 Helional 1 Terpinyl Acetate
2 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Geranium Oil pure
21 Traseolide 100 Base 2 Cassifix
5 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Rose Oil Turkey
12 Hedione 5 Lilial
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol .3 Violet Leaf Egyptian Abs. Extra
123 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Carnaline
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Iso E Super
1 Amyris Oil W.I. ( Sandalwood ) 1 Scennal
3 alpha - Ionone 27 Linalyl Acetate
4 Methyl Benzoate 5 Nerol
5 Gardenia 1110 7 Vioris
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
2 Citronellol 96 FCC 4 Methyl Iso Eugneol
1 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 3 Hidroxicitronelal

1,000

511

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 7a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilys 3 Neroli Oliffac

4 Givescone 35 Geraniol 970
9 Benzyl Benzoate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Civet Powder # 1a .1 Rose De Mai Abs.
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 Florantone T
19 Benzyle Salicylate 29 Linalol 98 %
17 Sandalwood Oliffac 8 Orange Blossom Base
5 Musk Emeressence .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
1 Benzophenone 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Heliotropine 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
69 MDJ 4 Geranyl Linalool
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Nerol
7 Claigeon 1 Stemone
21 Meijiff .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Alcohol C - 09 5 Orangeflor
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Verotyl
12 Santalox T Neat 1 Bois Amberene Forte
3 Methyl Octyl Ketone 3 Eugenyl Acetate
95 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Kir Base # 9741
1 Rose Crystals 36 Linalyl Acetate
23 Iso Eugenol Replacement
14 Hydroxycitronellal 55 Pure
1 Iridales 1,000
2 Magnol
321 ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol Pure
6 Ivyal
4 Lyrame
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol

512

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 3 Neroli Oliffac

4 Givescone 38 Geraniol 970
9 Benzyl Benzoate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Civet Powder # 1b .1 Rose De Mai Abs.
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 Florantone T
19 Benzyl Salicylate 29 Linalol 98 %
17 Sandalwood Oliffac 11 Orange Blossom Base
5 Musk Emeressence .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
1 Benzophenone 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Heliotropine 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
72 MDJ 4 Geranyl Linalool
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Acetate Neryle
7 Claigeon 1 Stemone
21 Meijiff .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Alcohol C - 09 5 Bitter Orange Oil - Italy
91 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Verotyl
12 Santalox T Neat 1 Bois Amberene Forte
3 Methyl Octyl Ketone 3 Eugenyl Acetate
110 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Kir Base # 9741
1 Rose Crystals 36 Linalyl Acetate
23 Iso Eugenol Replacement
14 Hydroxycitronellal 55 Pure
1 Iridales 1,000
2 Magnol
321 ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
4 Citronellol Pure
6 Irisone Bis
4 Lyrame
13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 Fruitaleur
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol

513

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 7c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin 3 Neroli Oliffac

4 Givescone 35 Geraniol 970
9 Benzyl Benzoate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Civet Powder # 1a .1 Rose De Mai Abs.
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 Florantone T
19 Benzyle Salicylate 29 Linalol 98 %
17 Sandalwood Oliffac 8 Orange Blossom Base
5 Musk Emeressence .1 Violette - Egypt
1 Benzophenone 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Heliotropine 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
69 MDJ 4 Geranyl Linalool
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Nerol
7 Iso - Raldeine 70 1 Vert de Cassis Givco 71
21 Meijiff .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Alcohol C - 10 5 Orangeflor
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Verotyl
10 Amyris Oil W.I. 1 Bois Amberene Forte
3 Methyl Octyl Ketone 3 Eugenyl Acetate
95 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Kir Base # 9741
1 Rose Crystals 35 Linalyl Acetate
23 Iso Eugenol Replacement
16 Hydroxycitronellal 55 Pure
1 Iridales 1,000
2 Magnol
321 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol 98 %
6 Methyl Ionone Alpha
4 Lyrame
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol

514

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 7d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilys 3 Neroli Oliffac

4 Base # III - Givaudan 35 Geraniol 970
9 Benzyl Benzoate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Civet Powder # 1a .1 Rose De Mai Abs.
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 Florantone T
19 Benzylsalicylate 29 Linalol 98 %
17 Sandalwood Oliffac 8 Orange Blossom Base
5 Musk Emeressence .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
1 Acetate Iso Eugenol 7 Phenylethylalcohol
4 Ionone Mixture Nat. 1 Myraldyl Acetate
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
59 MDJ 4 Rhodinol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Nerol
7 Claigeon 1 Stemone
21 Meijiff .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Vanilys 3 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Alcohol C - 09 5 Aurantiol Pure
101 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Verotyl
12 Sandiff 1 Bois Amberene Forte
3 Methyl Octyl Ketone 3 Eugenyl Acetate
105 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
1 Rose Crystals 36 Linalyl Acetate
23 Iso Eugenol Replacement
14 Hydroxycitronellal
1 Iridales 1,000
2 Magnol
321 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol Pure
6 Ivyal
4 Lyrame
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol

515

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 7e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilys 3 Neroli Oliffac

4 Sandalore 35 Geraniol 970
9 Benzyl Benzoate .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Civet Powder # 1a .1 Rose De Mai Abs.
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 Florantone T
19 Benzyle Salicylate 29 Linalol 98 %
17 Sandalwood Oliffac 8 Orange Blossom Base
2 Musk Emeressence .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
1 Benzophenone 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Heliotropine 1 Iso Jasmone
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
59 MDJ 4 Geranyl Linalool
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Nerol
7 Claigeon 1 Stemone
11 Laurine Extra - Givaudan .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Ionone Alpha 60
.1 Alcohol C - 09 5 Orangeflor
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Verotyl
12 Santalox T Neat 1 Bois Amberene Forte
3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Eugenyl Acetate
115 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Cassifix
1 Rose Crystals 36 Linalylacetate
23 Iso Eugenol Replacement
14 Hydroxycitronellal 55 Pure
1 y - Irone 1,000
2 Magnol
321 ( DPG )
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol ex Palmarosa - India
6 Ionone Alpha Extra
4 Lyrame
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Wardia
8 MelonOrg
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
1 Di Methyl Octanol

516

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 8a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Substitute 2 Lilivert

1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Musc 50 % DEP 3 Raldeine A GV
1 Amberfleur 18 Orange Blossom Base
.2 Civet Tincture .1 Petilyn
29 DEP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 1 Petitgrain Oil
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
36 MDJ Super 5 Cassis Fragrance
5 Ionone Alpha Refined .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 25 Linalyl Acetate
9 Vanillin .3 Violet Leaf Absoflor
2 Muskylein 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Iso Jasmone 5 Lyral
9 Hedione 1 Wardia
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Abs.
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Anapear - Givaudan
119 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Neryl Acetate
6 Citronellol 70 %
3 Ionone Alpha
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 1,000
36 Geraniol Extra
27 Carnation Base
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Exaltolide
1 Eugenyl Acetate
4 Iso Raldeine 85
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Iris Moss
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bois Amberene Forte
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol Pur

517

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 8b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane 2 Lilivert
1 Rose Crystals .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Musc 50 % DEP 3 Raldeine A GV
1 Rionyl 18 Orange Blossom Base
.2 Civet Tincture .1 Vioris
29 DEP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Heliotropine 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 1 Petitgrain Oil
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
36 MDJ Super 5 Cassis Fragrance
5 Ionone Alpha Refined .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 25 Linalyl Acetate
9 Vanillin .3 Violet Leaf Absoflor
2 Muskylein 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
94 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate Extra
3 Iso Jasmone 5 Lyral
9 Hedione 1 Wardia
14 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Abs.
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Anapear - Givaudan
129 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Acetate Neryle
6 Citronellol Extra
3 Ionone Alpha
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 1,000
36 Geraniol Extra
27 Eugenol
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Exaltolide
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
4 Iso Raldeine 85
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Vioris
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bois Amberene Forte
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol

518

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 8c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Substitute 2 Lilivert

1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Musc 50 % DEP 3 Raldeine A GV
1 Amberfleur 18 Orange Blossom Base
.2 Civet Tincture .1 Petilyn
29 DEP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 1 Orange Oil Bitter W.I.
9 Benzyl Propionate 1 Meranol
36 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 5 Cassis Fragrance
5 Ionone Alpha Refined .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 25 Linalyl Acetate
9 Vanillin .3 Violet Leaf Absoflor
2 Muskylein 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Iso Jasmone 5 Lyral
7 Hedione 1 Geranyl Acetate ( Special Coeur )
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Abs.
2 Methyl Benzoate 2 Pearalate
119 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Neryl Acetate
6 Citronellol 70 %
3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 1,000
38 Geraniol Extra
25 Carnation Base
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Irisone Bis
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
1 Dianthanol
4 Iso Raldeine 70
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Ionone 100 %
.2 Violet Augaflor 21
7 Stemone
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol 98 %

519

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 8d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

37 Helional 2 Lilivert
1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Galaxolide Artessence 3 y - Irone
1 Amberfleur 18 Orange Blossom Base
.2 Civet Tincture .1 Petilyn
29 DEP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 1 Neroli Oliffac
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
36 Benzylacetate 5 Cassis Fragrance
5 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 25 Linalyl Acetate
9 Vanillin .3 Violet Leaf Absoflor
2 Muskylein 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
107 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Iso Jasmone 5 Lyral
9 Hedione 1 Wardia
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Abs.
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
131 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Neryl Acetate
6 Citronellol 70 %
3 Ionone Alpha
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 1,000
36 Geraniol Prime
27 Carnation Base
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Givescone
1 Eugenyl Acetate
4 Iso Raldeine 85
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Jasmone
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Bois Amberene Forte
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Ethyl Linalool

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 8e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Crystals 2 Lioral

1 Benzophenone .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
58 Musc 50 % DEP 3 Raldeine A GV
1 Amberfleur 18 Orange Blossom Base
.2 Civet Tincture .1 Jasilyn
29 DEP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Heliotropine 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 1 Petitgrain Oil
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Meranol
36 Hedione 5 Vert de Cassis Givco
5 a-Ionone Extra .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 25 Linalyl Acetate
9 Vanillin .3 Violet Leaf Absoflor
2 Muskylein 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Jasmone 5 Iridales
9 Hedione 1 Wardia
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Abs.
2 Methyl Benzoate 1 Anapear - Givaudan
119 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Neryl Acetate
6 Citronellol 70 %
3 Ionone Alpha
9 Hydroxycitronellal 55 1,000
36 Geraniol 60
27 Carnation Base
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Violeta Folhas Abs.
1 Dianthanol
4 Ionone Alpha Refined
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Rose
.2 Alcohol C - 9
7 Cassifix
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Linalol Nat.

521

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 9a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civette Givco - Givaudan 27 Linalol

10 Benzyl Benzoate 14 Orange Blossom Base
47 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Meranol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Tangerine Oil Florida
5 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
11 Osyrol 3 Acetate Geranyle
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 4 Muguesia
51 Coumane 2 Kir Base # 9741
6 Iso & Super .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Flor
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
51 Benzylacetate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Sensient
4 Florosia 13 Linalylacetate
7 Sandela .1 Orris Resinoid
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Florantone T
86 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Galbanum Absolue
53 Benzyl Acetate .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Florosia
6 Troenan 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Citronellol Extra
1 Kephalis
9 Hysimal 1,000
96 Ionone Intrmediate Base
7 Bonorax
9 Alpha Ionyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol Prime
2 Laurine Extra
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol Pure
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Methyl Jasmonate
.1 Undecavertol
3 Orangeflor
5 Wardia
522

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 9b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civette Givco - Givaudan 27 Linalol

10 Benzyl Benzoate 14 Orange Blossom Base
47 Serenolide 3 Meranol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Tangerine Oil Florida
5 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
11 Santalox T Neat - Takasago 3 Acetate Geranyle
23 Benzyl Salicylate 4 Muguesia
51 Coumane 2 Kir Base # 9741
6 Iso & Super .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Flor
1 Heliotropine 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
51 Benzylacetate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Sensient
4 Florosia 13 Linalyl Acetate
7 Sandela .1 Orris Resinoid
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Florantone T
86 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Galbanum Absolue
53 Benzyl Acetate .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Florosia
6 Troenan 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Citronellol ex Palmarosa Oil
1 Kephalis
9 Muguesia 1,000
96 Ionone Intrmediate Base
7 Bonorax
9 Alpha Ionyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol 60
2 Ivyal
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol Pure
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Methyl Jasmonate
.1 Undecavertol
3 Aurantiol Pure
5 Wardia
523

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 9c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet 27 Linalol
10 Benzyl Alcohol 14 Orange Blossom Base
47 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Meranol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Tangerine Oil Florida
5 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
11 Sandalwood Givaudan 113 3 Acetate Geranyle
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 4 Muguesia
41 Coumane 2 Kir Base # 9741
6 Iso E Super .4 Viola Odorata L.
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Flor
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
51 Benzylacetate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Sensient
4 Florosia 13 Linalylacetate
7 Sandela .1 Orris Resinoid
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Florantone T
76 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Galbanum Absolue
53 Benzyl Acetate .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Thesaron
6 Troenan 2 Cassis Fragrance B
3 Citronellol Nat.
1 Anthea Sandal Coeur
9 Hysimal 1,000
116 Ionone Intrmediate Base
7 Bonorax
9 Alpha Ionyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 y - Irone
24 Geraniol Prime
2 Laurine Extra
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Hexyl Salicylate
1 Geraniol Pure
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Methyl Jasmonate
.1 Neofolione
3 Orangeflor
5 Iso Rose
524

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 9d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Tincture 27 Linalol

10 Benzyl Benzoate 16 Orange Blossom Base
47 Musk Gazalle 3 Meranol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Tangerine Oil Florida
5 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
11 Amyris Oil W.I. 3 Acetate Geranyle
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 4 Muguesia
51 Coumane 2 Kir Base # 9741
6 Iso & Super .4 Violet Leaf Abs. - France
4 Hydrofix R 1 Orange Flor
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyl 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
51 Benzylacetate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Lilial
4 Florosia 13 Linalyl Acetate Synthetic
7 Sandela .1 Orris Resinoid
6 Methyl Benzoate 1 Florantone T
86 Hydroxycitronellal .1 Galbanum Absolue
53 Benzyl Acetate .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Florosia
6 Troenan 2 Stemone
3 Citronellol Extra
1 Kephalis
9 Hysimal 1,000
95 Ionone Intrmediate Base
7 Bonorax
9 Alpha Ionyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol ( 980 Pure )
2 Laurine Extra
3 Muguet Aldehyde
3 Bisabolene
1 Geraniol Pure
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Jasmonyl
.1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
3 Orangeflor
5 Wardia
525

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 9e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civette Givco - Givaudan 27 Linalol

10 Benzyl Benzoate 14 Orange Blossom Base
47 Galaxolide 50 DPG 3 Meranol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Tangerine Oil Dancy Type ( Calif. )
5 Vanillin 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
11 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Acetate Geranyle
23 Benzyle Propionate 4 Orivone
51 Coumarina 2 Kir Base # 9741
6 Iso & Super .4 Methyl Tuberate
4 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Orange Flor
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyle 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
51 Benzylacetate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
5 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Sensient
4 Florosia 13 Linalylacetate
7 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol .1 Orris Resinoid
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Florantone T
86 Hydroxycitronellal .1 Galbanum Absolue
43 Benzyl Acetate .1 Geraniol 600
.1 Alcohol C - 10 1 Vioris
6 Troenan 2 Vern Aldehyde
3 Citronellol Extra
1 Kephalis
9 Hysimal 1,000
126 Ionone Intrmediate Base
7 Bonorax
9 Alpha Ionyl Acetate
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Irisone Bis
24 Geraniol Prime
2 Jasmone
3 Lyrame
5 Glycoflor
1 Geraniol ex Palmarosa Oil
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Methyl Jasmonate
.1 Violiff
3 Orangeflor
5 Wardia
526

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 10a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarine 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Ethylene Brassylate 3 Lilial
9 Benzylesalicylate 22 Linalol
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol .5 Rhodinol - Natural Isolate
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Cinnamalva
47 Galaxolide 50 3 Neroli Oliffac
8 Vanilys 17 Geraniol Pure
7 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal 8 Orange Blossom Base
9 Iso E Super 4 Acetate Geranyle
45 Benzyl Acetate 6 Lyrame Super
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Palmarosa Oil - India 3 Neo - Geranium Oil
4 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 5 Vetiver Oil ( Java )
96 Hydroxycitronellol 2 Irisone Bis
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Pamplemousse
7 Methyl Benzoate 38 Linalyl Acetate
9 Hedione 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
4 Citronellol Pur .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
13 Lilivert 1 Rosilial
1 Musk R - 1 .1 Leaf Alcohol
28 Rose for Soap Base 1 Muguet Alcohol - Symrise
8 MDJ 3 Italian Bergamot Orpur - Givaudan
3 Methyl Ionone Iso Super Alfa
13 Ionone Alpha Refined
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Eugenol / Clove
1 Geranium over Roses
3 Jasmone
106 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Aldehyde
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Nerol 900
3 Massoia Ecorce - India

527

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Violet # 10b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarine 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Musk Emeressence 3 Hydroxycitronellal “E”
9 Benzylesalicylate 22 Linalol
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol .5 Rhodinol - Natural Isolate
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Caryophelline
47 Galaxolide 50 3 Neroli Oliffac
8 Vanillin 17 Geraniol Pure
7 Hydroxycitronellal 8 Orange Blossom Base
10 Iso E Super 4 Acetate Geranyle
45 Benzyl Acetate 6 Lilestralis
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Palmarosa Oil - India 3 Neo - Geranium Oil
4 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 5 Vetiver Oil ( Java )
96 Hydroxycitronellol 2 Irisone Bis
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Grape Fruit Oil ( Florida ) C.P.
6 Methyl Benzoate 38 Linalyl Acetate
9 Hedione 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
4 Citronellol Pur .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
13 Hydroxycitronellol ( Hydroxiol ) 1 Rosilial
.1 Rose Attar .1 Leaf Alcohol
28 Rose for Soap Base 1 Muguet Alcohol - Symrise
8 MDJ 4 Bergamot Oil - Sicilian Orpur
3 Methyl Ionone Iso Super Alfa
13 Ionone Alpha Refined
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Eugenol / Clove
1 Geranium Oil - Bourbon
3 Jasmone
106 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Muguet Aldehyde
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Nerol 900
3 Gardenia Fleuriff

528

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 10c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 CouMarin 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Musk 144 - Takasago 3 Lilial
9 Benzylesalicylate 22 Linalol
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol .5 Rhodinol - Natural Isolate
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Cinnamalva
47 Galaxolide 50 3 Neroli Artessence
8 Vanilys 17 Geraniol 98 %
7 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal 8 Orange Blossom Base
9 Iso E Super 4 Acetate Geranyle
45 Benzyl Acetate 6 Lyrame Super
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Palmarosa Oil - India 3 Neo - Geranium Oil
4 Hawthorn 5 Vetiver Oil ( Java )
96 Hydroxycitronellal 2 alpha - Ionone
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Pamplemousse
7 Methyl Benzoate 38 Linalyl Acetate
9 Hedione 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
4 Citronellol Pur .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
13 Lilivert 1 Rosilial
1 Musk R - 1 .1 Anisyl Alcohol
28 Rose for Soap Base 1 Lioral
8 MDJ 3 Clementine Oil
3 Methyl Ionone Iso Super Alfa
13 Ionone Alpha Refined
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Methyl Iso Eugenol
1 Musk R15
3 Vioris
106 Ionone Intermediate Base
3 Muguet Aldehyde
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Nerol 900
3 Ionone Alpha 60

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Violet # 10d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarine 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Ethylene Brassylate 3 Lilial
9 Benzylesalicylate 22 Linalol
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol .5 Iso Rose
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Pepperwood
47 Galaxolide 50 3 Neroli Oliffac
6 Vanilys 17 Geraniol Prime
7 Hydroxycitronellal 8 Orange Blossom Base
9 Iso E Super 4 Geranyl Acetate
45 Benzyl Acetate 6 Lyrame Super
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Palmarosa Oil - India 3 Neo - Geranium Oil
4 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 5 Vetiver Oil ( Java )
96 Hydroxycitronellol 2 Irisone Bis
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 17 Wardia
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Nootkatone 80/85 %
7 Methyl Benzoate 38 Linalyl Acetate
9 Hedione 1 Tangerinol
4 Citronellol - L .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
13 Lilivert 1 Rosilial
1 Musk R - 1 .1 Leaf Alcohol
28 Rose for Soap Base 1 Muguet Alcohol - Symrise
8 MDJ 3 Mandarin Oil Red - Italy
3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
15 Ionone Alpha Refined
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
22 Eugenol 100 %
1 Geranium Rose Egyptian
3 Iso Jasmone
108 Ionone Intermediate Base
3 Muguet Aldehyde
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Nerol 850
3 Massoia Ecorce - India

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Violet

Violet # 10e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarine 5 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

8 Muscenone 3 Hydrofix R
9 Benzyl Propionate 22 Linalol
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol .5 Rhodinol - Natural Isolate
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Cinnamalva
47 Musk Ambrette Substitute 3 Neroli Oliffac
8 Vanilys 17 Geraniol Pure
7 Hydroxycitronellal 8 Orange Blossom Base
9 Koavone 4 Acetate Geranyle
45 Benzyl Acetate 6 Lilestralis
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Palmarosa Oil - India 3 Neo - Geranium Oil
4 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 5 Vetiver Oil ( Java )
96 Hydroxycitronellol 2 Irisone Bis
5 Eugenol 15 Wardia
4 Vanisal 1 Pamplemousse
7 Methyl Benzoate 38 Linalyl Acetate
9 Jasmonyl Acetate 1 Tangerine Oil - Florida / Brazil
4 Citronellol Pur .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
13 Lilivert 1 Rosilial
1 Musk GX .1 Leaf Alcohol
28 Rose for Soap Base 1 Stemone - Givaudan
8 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate 2 Bergamot Oil Givco 113 - Giv.
3 Methyl Ionne Iso Super Alfa
13 Ionone Alpha Refined
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Geranium over Roses
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
106 Iso Raldeine Substitute
3 Hydroxyol
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
1 Nerol 900
3 Iso Rose

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Ylang Ylang

Cananga Odorata greenish yellow (rarely pink) Caryophyllene

petals, rather like a sea star in p-cresyl methyl ether
Commonly called Ylang - Ylang appearance, and yields a highly fra- Methyl benzoate
( ee-lang-ee-lang ), cananga tree, grant essential oil. Sesquiterpenes
ilang-ilang, kenanga (Indonesian),
fragrant cananga, Macassar-oil Cananga odorata var. fruticosa, Etymology
plant or perfume tree), is a tree val- dwarf ylang-ylang, grows as small
ued for its perfume. The essential tree or compact shrub with highly The name ylang-ylang is derived
oil derived from the flowers is used scented flowers. from Tagalog, either from the word
in aromatherapy. ilang, meaning "wilderness", allud-
Ylang-ylang has been cultivated in ing to its natural habitat, or the
Artabotrys odoratissimus, ylang- temperate climates under conserva- word ilang-ilan, meaning "rare",
ylang vine, and Artabotrys hexa- tory conditions. suggestive of its exceptionally deli-
petalus, climbing ylang-ylang, are cate scent.[citation needed] A more
woody, evergreen climbing plants Its clusters of black fruit are an widely accepted translation is
in the same family; A. odoratis- important food item for birds, such "flower of flowers". The plant is
simus is also a source of perfume. as the Collared Imperial-pigeon, native to the Philippines and
Purple-tailed Imperial-pigeon, Indonesia and is commonly
Description Zoe's Imperial-pigeon, Superb grown in Polynesia, Melanesia,
Fruit-dove, Pink-spotted Fruit- Micronesia and Comoros Islands.
Cananga odorata is a fast-growing dove, Coroneted Fruit-dove,
tree of the custard-apple family, Orange-bellied Fruit-dove, and Characteristics
Annonaceae, that exceeds 5 m (15 Wompoo Fruit-dove.
ft) per year and attains an average The fragrance of ylang-ylang is rich
height of 12 m (40 ft). It grows in Chemical Constituents and deep with notes of rubber and
full or partial sun, and prefers the custard, and bright with hints of
acidic soils of its native rainforest Typical chemical compositions of jasmine and neroli. The essential
habitat. The evergreen leaves are the various grades of Ylang ylang oil of the flower is obtained through
smooth and glossy, oval, pointed, are reported as follows: steam distillation of the flowers and
with wavy margins, and 13 - 20 cm separated into different grades
(5 - 8 in) long. The flower is droop- Linalool (extra; 1; 2; 3) according to when
ing, long-stalked, with six narrow Geranyl acetate the distillates are obtained. The

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

main aromatic components of its way into many fine fragrances. Moreover, the oil contains a high
ylang-ylang oil are benzyl acetate, percentage of (-)-linalool (ca. 15
linalool, p-cresyl methyl ether, and Ylang-Ylang %), geranyl acetate (ca. 10 %) and
methyl benzoate, responsible for its farnesyl acetate (ca. 3 %), as well
characteristic odor. Cananga odorata (Annonaceae) as a number of other sesquiterpenes
and their oxygenated derivatives,
Uses The ylang-ylang tree is planted e.g. muurolol T (ca. 2 %). p-Cresyl
everywhere in the tropics because methyl ether is a characteristic of
The essential oil of ylang-ylang is of its fragrant flowers. In the the ylang-ylang flower.
used in aromatherapy. It is believed Philippines, for example, the tree is
to relieve high blood pressure, nor- seen in almost every village. The The pure compound has a very
malize sebum secretion for skin peculiar flowers are green when powerful odour, offensive to most
problems, and is considered to be they come out, but in a few days people. However, in lower concen-
an aphrodisiac.According to they turn yellow and become high- tration, and supplemented by the
Margaret Mead, it was used as such ly fragrant. On special occasions multitude of other odorants present
by South Pacific natives such as the the women put them in their hair. in the flower, it supplies much of
Samoan Islands where she did the exotic character of ylang-ylang.
much of her research. The oil from Ylang-ylang oil is obtained by
ylang-ylang is widely used in per- steam distillation of the freshly A delightful ylang-ylang absolute
fumery for oriental or floral themed picked flowers, especially in is made by extraction of the flow-
perfumes (like Chanel No. 5). Madagascar and the Comores. It is ers. It has an intesely sweet-floral
Ylang-ylang blends well with most a pale yellow oil with a very pow- and very diffusive odour with a typ-
floral, fruit and wood smells. erful, floral and intensely sweet ical balsamic floral note, and is dis-
odour and a cresylic and benzoate- tinguished from the odour of the oil
In Indonesia, ylang-ylang flowers like top note of limited tenacity. by its lightness and uniformity -
are spread on the bed of newlywed The fadeout is more pleasant, soft according to Arctander. It is one of
couples. In the Philippines, its and sweet, slightly spicy and bal- the finest floral materials in high-
flowers, together with the flowers samic-floral. It is a classical ingre- class muguet perfumes (lily-of-the-
of the sampaguita, are strung into a dient in perfumery, used for exam- valley).
necklace (lei) and worn by women ple in Chanel No. 5 (Chanel 1921),
and used to adorn religious images. and in countless other perfumes. The genus Cananga holds only four
species, all with fragrant flowers.
Ylang-ylang's essential oil makes The major constituents of the oil The rest of the Annonacean family
up 29% of the Comoros' annual are a number of well-known power- usually has flowers with a moldy or
export (1998). ful odorants, e.g. benzyl acetate (ca. putrid smell, if they have any smell
25 %), at all.
Ylang Ylang is a common ingredi-
ent in the herbal motion sickness p-cresyl methyl ether (ca. 20 %), Etymology: ylang-ylang, or ilang-
product MotionEaze. methyl benzoate (ca. 5 %), methyl ilang, is Indonesian, meaning
salicylate and cinnamyl acetate. 'loosely hanging' (flowers).
Perfumery Although only precent in traces, p-
cresol, eugenol and isoeugenol are
Ylang-Ylang whether as an essen- also odour determining, as well as
tial oil or synthetic ingredient finds benzyl salicylate (ca. 3 %).

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang Fragrance Notes

BOOK # 1 ( A - G ) Ylang Ylang Extra’s - Comoro American Society of Perfumers

Ylang Ylang First Oil - Comoro
A & E Connock Ltd. - U.K. Ylang Ylang Second Oil - Comoro FLORAL NOTE
Ylang Ylang Third Oil - Comoro
Ylang Ylang Abs. Cananga
Alfa Chem - USA
A.N.E.C. - France Ylang Ylang
Cananga Oil
Ylang Ylang Aromatic Collection - France
Ylang Ylang Extra
Adrian Industries SAS - France Ylang Ylang I Ylang Oil Extra
Ylang Ylang II Ylang Oil I
Cananga Ylang Ylang III Ylang Oil II
Ylang Ylang Complete Ylang Oil III
Ylang Ylang Complete Ylang Oil Complete
Ylang Ylang Extra ABSOLUTE
Ylang Ylang I Aromatic International LLC - USA
Ylang Ylang II Ylang Ylang Abs.
Ylang Ylang III FLORAL GROUP
CONCRETE
ORGANIC ESSENTIAL OILS & Ylang Ylang
EXTRACTS Ylang Ylang Concrete
Aromatics Adl - France
Ylang Ylang Complete, I, II, III, Amen Organics - India
and Extra - Cananga Odorata Cananga
Cananga Oil
Albert Vieille SA - France Ylang Ylang Deuxieme
Ylang Ylang Oil Ylang Ylang Extra
Cananga Oil - Indonesia Ylang Ylang Premiere
Ylang Ylang Trosieme
Ylang Ylang Oil - Comoro Islands
Ylang Ylang Extra - Comoro

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Artiste Flavor / Essence - USA Ylang Ylang Ylang Oil, No. 1

Ylang Oil, No. 2
Cananga Oil Barosyl S.A. - France Ylang Oil, No. 3

Ylang Ylang Oil Cananga Java Champon Vanilla, Inc. - USA

Cananga Macrophylla
Augustus Oils Ltd. - U.K. Cananga Oil
Ylang Ylang Complete
Ylang Augaflor 28 Cananga Odorata Totum Ylang Concrete
Ylang Augaflor 31 Ylang Ylang Extra Ylang Extra
Cananga Odorata Extra Ylang No. 1
ESSENTIAL OILS Ylang Ylang I Ylang No. 2
Cananga Odorata I Ylang No. 3
Cananga Oil Ylang Ylang II
Cananga Odorata II Charabot & Co., Inc. - France
Ylang Ylang I Ylang Ylang III
Ylang Ylang II Cananga Odorata III Ylang Ylang Oil Extra
Ylang Ylang III Ylang Ylang “First”
Buckton Page Ltd. - U.K. Ylang Ylang “Second”
Ylang Ylang Abs. Ylang Ylang “Third”
Cananga Oil
Australian Botanical - Aust. China Aroma Chemical Co. - China
Ylang Ylang Oils
Cananga Java Cananga Oil
Carrubba Inc. - USA
Ylang Ylang 1 Ylang Ylang Oil
Ylang Ylang 2 BOTANICAL EXTRACTS
Ylang Ylang 3 China Perfumer - China
Ylang Ylang Complete Ylang Ylang
Ylang Ylang Extra Charabot SA
Ylang Ylang Super Extra Castrading - Korea
Cananga Oil
Axxence SARL - France Cananga, Java
Ylang Oil
Ylang Ylang Fractionated Ylang Ylang Complete Ylang Oil I
Ylang Ylang Fractionnee Ylang Ylang Concrete Ylang Oil II
Ylang Ylang Terpeneless Ylang Ylang Extra Ylang Oil III
Ylang Ylang Deterpenee Ylang Ylang No. 1 Ylang Oil II Madagascar
Ylang Ylang No. 2 Ylang Oil III Madagascar
Bansal Aroma - India Ylang Ylang No. 3 Ylang Oil Extra Morocco
Ylang Oil I Morocco
Cananga Oil Central States Chemical - USA Ylang Oil II Morocco
Ylang Oil III Morocco
HERBAL EXTRACT Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Abs.

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Givaudan Fragrance - Switz. Destilerias Munoz - Spain Eramex Aromatics - Germany

Ylang Givco 225 F.D. Copeland & Sons Ylang Ylang Oils Extra
Ylang Ylang Oils I
Citral Oleos Essenciais - Brazil Cananga Oil Ylang Ylang Oils II
Ylang Ylang Oil III
BASES PERFUMARIA Ylang Oil Extra
Ylang Oil no. 1 Esencias y Materiales - Mexico
Ylang Eco Essence E5380 Ylang Oil no. 2
Ylang Odorata Oil Ylang Oil no. 3 Ylang Ylang Extra
Ylang Ylang I
OLEOS ESSENCIAS - NATURALS Djasula Wangi - Indonesia Ylang Ylang II
Ylang Ylang III
Ylang Odorata Oil 1400 Cananga Oil
Essencia, Aetherische Oele - Switz.
Clos D’Aguzon - France Dulcos Trading - France
Cananga Java
Cananga Oil Cananga Indonesie Cananga Odorata

Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Extra Comoros Ylang Ylang Extra

Ylang Oil I Ylang Extra S Comoros Cananga Odorata
Ylang Oil II Ylang Ylang 1 Comoros Ylang Ylang II
Ylang Oil III Ylang Ylang II Comoros Cananga Odorata
Ylang Oil Complete Ylang Ylang III Comoros
Euma - Argentina
Creative Fragrances Ltd. - USA EXTRAITS
Cananga
Cananga Oil - Indonesia Ylang Ylang - Comoros
Ylang Ylang I
Ylang Ylang Oil # 3 - Comoros Dullberg Konzentra - Germany Ylang Ylang III
Ylang Ylang Oil Bourbon Extra -
Reunion Cannaga Oil NATURALES PRODUCTOS

DMH Ingredients - USA Ylang Ylang Oil Ylang Ylang I

( cananga odorata 1a dest. )
Cananga Oil J.Piltz - Brazil Ylang Ylang III
( cananga odorata 2 a dest. )
Ylang Ylang Ylang Ylang Ylang Ylang III
( cananga odorata 3 a dest. )
De Monchy Aromatics, Inc. - U.K. Earth Oil Plantations Ltd. - U.K.
Exaflor - France
Ylang Ylang III Ylang Ylang Oil
Ylang Ylang

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Madagascar Fleurin, Inc. - USA Givaudan Fragrance Corp. - Switz.

Ylang - Ylang Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Givco 225

Ylang Ylang I, II, III
FD Copeland & Sons Ltd. - U.K. Quest Intl. - Givaudan Switz.
Ylang Ylang Abs.
Cananga Oil Ylang Ylang Oil
Flowersynth - India
Ylang Oil Extra Global Essence Ltd. - U.K.
Ylang Oil no. 1 Ylang
Ylang Oil no. 2 Ylang Oils I, II, III, Complete
Ylang Oil no. 3 Frencharoma Imports Co. - USA
The Good Scents Company - USA
Farotti Essences srl - Italy Cananga
Cananga Oil
Ylang Ylang I Essence Ylang Ylang # 1 Cananga Oil Terpeneless
Ylang Ylang III Essence Ylang Ylang # 2
Ylang Ylang # 3 Ylang Ylang Oil
Fine Chemical Trading Ltd. - U.K.
Frey - Lau GmbH - Germany ABSOLUTES
Ylang - Ylang Extra
Cananga Oil Ylang Ylang Absolute
Fiveash Data Management - USA
Ylang Ylang Oil CONCRETES
Cananga Indonesia
Fritzsche SAICA - Argentina Ylang Ylang Concrete
Flavodor - The Netherlands
Cananga Oil FLORAL
Cananga Oil
Ylang Ylang Oil Cananga Oil
Ylang - Ylang Oils
Fruitarom Industries - Israel Ylang Ylang Absolute
Fleurchem, Inc. - USA Ylang Ylang Concrete
Ylang Ylang 2 Ylang Ylang Oil
Cananga Ylang Ylang 3
Ylang Ylang Extra Gorlin & Company - USA
Ylang, Complete Ylang Ylang Petals
Ylang, Extra Cananga Java
Ylang I Fuerst Day Lawson - U.K.
Ylang II Graham Chemical Corp. - USA
Ylang III Cananga Oil
Ylang Oil ( Fleur ) Cananga Oil
Ylang Oils
Ylang Ylang Oil

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 Glen O. Brechbill

HC Biochem - China Ylang Ylang Absolute Ylang II Oil

Ylang Ylang Concrete Ylang III Oil
Ylang Ylang Oil
IFF - USA M.X.D. Enterprise System - Korea
H. Reynaud & Fils - France
FRAGRANCES BY ODOR Ylang Ylang Oil Extra
Cananga Indonesie Ylang Ylang Oil I
Cananga Oil Ylang Ylang Ylang Ylang Oil III

Ylang Ylang Extra Comores JC Buck Ltd. - U.K. Ylang Ylang Abs. Extra
Ylang Extra Oil
Ylang Ylang I Comores Ylang Extra Moelhausen S.p.A. - Italy
Ylang I Oil Ylang # 1
Ylang Ylang II Comoroes Ylang # 2 Cananga Oil
Ylang II Oil Ylang # 3
Ylang Ylang III Comores Ylang Ylang Oil
Ylang III Oil J & E Sozio, Inc. - USA Ylang Ylang Oil II

Haldin - Indonesia Ylang Ylang Extra SPECIALTIES OR RECONSTITUTE OILS

Cananga Oil J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda. - Brazil Ylang Oil Std
Ylang III Oil MF
Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd., - U.K. Ylang Ylang
Muller & Koster - France
Cananga Oil Katyani Exports - India
Ylang Ylang
Ylang Ylang Ylang Ylang Oil Cananga Odorata
Cananga Odorata
BOTANICAL EXTRACTS Naradev - Hong Kong
Kruetz Helmut - Portugal
Cananga Cananga
Cananga Oil
Ylang Ylang Ylang Core
Ylang Ylang 2 Ylang Ylang Complete
BOOK # II ( I - Z ) Ylang Ylang 3 Ylang Ylang Extra
Ylang Ylang Extra Ylang Ylang I
IPRA Fragrances - France Ylang Ylang Petals Ylang Ylang II
Ylang YLang III
Cananga Indonesie Lluche Essence - Spain Ylang Ylang Super Extra

Ylang Ylang Deuxieme Comores Cananga Java Oil Nardev - Israel

Ylang Ylang Extra Comores
Ylang Ylang Prmiere Comores Ylang Extra Oil Cananga Oil
Ylang Ylang Troisieme Comores Ylang 1 Oil

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Natural Sourcing, LLC - USA Perfume & Flavor Manuf. - Aust. Ylang Ylang Oil

Cananga, Indonesia Cananga Hook F & Thomas Oil Prima Fleur - USA

Ylang Ylang Extra, Spain Ylang Ylang Oil Ylang Ylang # 1 Canangal Odorata
Wild Flower Comores
Oliganic - USA Peter Jarvic Cosmetic Ltd. - U.K. Ylang Ylang # 2
Regular Flower Madagascar
Cananga - Indonesia June - Aug. BOTANICAL LISTING Ylang Ylang # 3
Wild Flower Comores
Ylang Ylang Comoros Ylang EO Ylang Ylang # 3
April, Nov. Organic Flower Madagascar
Ylang Ylang Madagascar Petit Marie - Brazil Ylang Ylang Extra
July - Augst. Wild Flower Comores
Cananga Oil Ylang Ylang Complete
P.P. Sheth & Co. - India Organic Flower Madagascar
Ylang Ylang Oil
Cananga Oil Puresence Wursten Inc. - Switz.
Phoenix Aromas & Essential - USA
Ylang Ylang Oil I Cananga Oil
Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Cananga Oil
Ylang Ylang Complete
Paul Kaders GmbH - Germany Ylang Ylang Extra Oil
Ylang Ylang I Oil Ylang Ylang Concrete
Cananga Oil Ylang Ylang II Oil
Ylang Ylang III Oil TERPENES
Ylang Ylang Oils
Polarome International - USA Ylang Ylang Tails / Terpenes
Payan Bertrand SA - France
Cananga Decolorized Quality Analysis Ltd. - U.K.
Cananga Oil Cananga Oil
Ylang Ylang No. 1, II, III -
Ylang Ylang Extra Oil Ylang Ylang Complete Comoros
Ylang Ylang I Oil Ylang Ylang Extra
Ylang Ylang III Oil Ylang Ylang I Rai Ingredients - Brazil
Ylang Ylang II
Penta Manufacturing - USA Ylang Ylang III Ylang Givco 225

Ylang Oil Extra Ylang Ylang Abs. Raj Aroma Corp. - India
Ylang Oil # 1
Ylang Oil # 2 Premier Chemical Corp. - India Ylang Oil Extra
Ylang Oil # 3 Ylang Oil I
Cananga Oil Ylang Oil II
Ylang Oil III

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Oil STD Ylang Ylang Oil Thailand Institute of Science

Robertet SA - France Sensient Essential Oils - Germany ESSENTIAL OILS BY COUNTRY

Ylang Abs. Cananga Oil Java Brazil

Ylang Extra Oil
Ylang 1 Oil Ylang Ylang I - Commoro Ylang Ylang Oil
Ylang 3 Oil Ylang Ylang II - Commoro
Ylang Ylang III - Commoro Comoros
Rosetta Enterprises, LLC - USA
Sigma Aldrich - USA Cananga Oil
Cananga Java Native FCC
Cananga Oil Ylang Ylang Oil
Ylang Ylang Extra
Ylang Ylang First Ylang Ylang Oil Reunion
Ylang Ylang Second Ylang Ylang Oil I
Ylang Ylang Third Ylang Ylang Oil II Cananga Oil
Ylang Ylang Oil III
SAT Group - India Ylang Ylang Oil
Sovimpex - France
Cananga Oil Thakker Group - India
Cananga
Ylang Ylang Oil Ylang Ylang Oil - Payan Bertrand
Ylangs - Comores Ylang Ylang Oil ( A 8147 ) -
SRS Aromatics Ltd. - U.K. Ylangs - Madagascar Payan Bertrand

Ylanox 3520 P Spectrum Chemicals - USA Treatt USA Inc. - USA

Ylang Oil Extra 1596
Ylang Oil I 1924 Cananga Oil Cananga Oil Java
Ylang Oil II 2641
Ylang Ylang Oil ESSENTIAL OIL MAP OF THE WORLD
Sarcom Inc. - USA
Sunrose Aromatics - USA Africa
Cananga Indonesia
Ylang Ylang # 3 Pure Comoros
Science Lab - USA Ylang Ylang Complete
Ylang Ylang Extra ONC Ylang Ylang
Cananga Oil
Synaco Group - Belgium Mayotte
Ylang Ylang Oil
Ylang Ylang Oil Ylang Ylang
Seema International - India

Cananga Oil

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Asia Ylang Synthetic

Indonesia W & W Australia Pty - Aust.

Ylang Ylang Ylang Ylang Oil

Uhe Company, Inc. - USA Walsh, John D., Co. Inc. - USA

Cananga Indonesian Ylang Oil, Extra

Ylang Oil, I
Ylang Ylang Oil, II
Ylang Oil, III
Ultra International Limited - India
Wambesco Gmbh - Denmark
Ylang Ylang
Cananga Oil
Ungerer & Company - USA
Ylang Ylang
Cananga Java Native FCC

Ylang Ylang Bourbon

Ylang Ylang Bourbon First
Ylang Ylang Bourbon Second
Ylang Ylan Bourbon Third
Ylang Ylang Extra

Ventos, Ernesto S.A. - Spain

Cananga Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil Extra

Ylang Ylang Oil I
Ylang Ylang Oil II
Ylang Ylang Oil III

Ventos Enterprises Ltd. - U.K.

Cananga Oil

Ylang Ylang Oil

Vigon International, Inc. - USA

Ylang III

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang Notes

Cananga Decolorized Oil Is a sweet floral balsamic quite diffusive odor. Woody notes spring
forth as an initial impression. Has a fresh floral background that
can be quite intoxicating. Free from the dark natural color.

Cananga Oil Java Sweet and floral, ylang-ylang oil, jasmin.

Methyl Para Cresol Sharp and sweet, dilution - ylang, hyacinth and wall flower.

Para Cresyl Methyl Floral odor of wall flower, and ylang-ylang.

Ylang Abs. Intensely sweet floral very diffusive odor truly reminiscent.

Ylang Augaflor 28 This warm, sweet, floral specialty has the ability to turn an ordinary
perfume into a well-founded extravaganza. Blends well with previous
Ylang. Should not be used in place of, but to compliment.

Ylang Augaflor 31 This warm, sweet floral heady specialty has all the characteristics
of a high grade Ylang. It has the harsh top note, quickly followed
by the heady aromas expected and used in high grade perfumes.

Ylang Extra Oil Floral and intensely sweet odor.

Ylang Extra Oliffac P Enables broad usage of the fine top note ylang grades.

Ylang Givco 225 Is the economical reconstitution of the essential oil. Intensely, floral, powerful,
balsamic and spicy, it reflects all the typical odor characteristics of ylang-ylang
oil. The creamy-sweet and spice parts of the top note are nice balanced and
allow the use of Ylang Givco 225 as a replacement of ylang ylang oil in many
applications. This cost effective Ylang Ylang blends well in all type of floral
compounds, especially in so called "white floral" bouquet such as jasmin,
magnolia, muguet, tuberose.

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Ylang Oliffac Extra An economical alternative to the finer grades of ylang oils.

Ylang Oliffac 597 An economical simulation of the ylang odor.

Ylang Oliffac Standard A good general purpose substitute for the ylang flower character.

Ylang 1 Oil In between quality or fraction.

Ylang 3 Oil Sweet floral and balsamic woody odor.

Ylang 299 K Powerful, floral and intensely sweet odor.

Ylang Ylang Otherwise known as the flower of flowers of "the poor man's jasmine".
Alleged to possess aphrodisiac qualities. A common addition to
"love-potions."

Ylang Ylang Abs. Intensely sweet floral, and very diffusive odor.

Ylang Ylang Complete Powerful, and intensely sweet, but also soft balsamic floral odor.

Ylang Ylang Concrete Rich sweet and intensely floral.

Ylang Ylang Oil Sweet floral and intensely floral.

Ylang Ylang Oil Rich sweet and intensely floral with outstanding tenacity.

Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Very powerful floral intensely sweet of cresylic benzoate type.

Ylang Ylang " First " In between quality generally a mixture of different fractions.

Ylang Ylang " Second " In between quality generally a mixture of different fractions.

Ylang Ylang " Third " Sweet floral and balsamic woody odor tenacious sweet.

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberonne 5 Citronellol 850

46 Coumarina 3 Undecatriene
9 Vanilline 1 Florantone T
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 46 Geraniol Prime
.1 Exaltolide .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
27 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 4 Orange Flower Base
4 Anthea Sandal Coeur 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
9 Benzyl Alcohol 9 Hidroxicitronelal
3 Roseone 3 Acetate de Geranyle FCC
6 Methyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
110 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Tea Essence
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
4 Ionone Alpha 60 2 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Parmanyl
3 Aquanol 6 Aldehyde C - 14
26 Carnation Substitute 3 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Hidroxcitronelal 1 Petilyn
72 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Fleuramone
18 Lilial .2 Nerol Coeur
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Iso Rose
307 Di Propylene Glicol
3 Methyl Dianthanol
10 Tuberose Substitute 1,000
3 Methyl Para Cresole
4 Cananga Macrophylla - Cananga J.
2 Ionone Alpha 60
24 Galaxolide 50
57 Benzylacetate Nat.
5 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
25 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur

534

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rionyl 5 Citronellol Prime

46 CouMarin 3 Folione
9 Vanillin 1 Florantone T
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 46 Geraniol Prime
.1 Exaltolide .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
27 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 4 Orange Flower Base
4 Sandelwood Oliffac 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
9 Benzyl Alcohol 9 Hidroxicitronelal
3 Roseone 3 Acetate de Geranyle FCC
6 Methyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 5 Jasmone
1 Iso - Rosal 38 E .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
100 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Tea Essence
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 alpha-Ionone Extra
4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 2 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Vanilla Alcohol
3 Fruitaleur 6 Aldehyde C - 14
26 Carnation Substitute 3 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Hidroxcitronelal 1 Petilyn
72 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Fleuramone
18 Lilial .2 Nerol Coeur
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Iso Rose
307 Di Propylene Glicol
3 Methyl Dianthanol
10 Tuberose Substitute 1,000
3 Methyl Para Cresole
14 Cananga Macrophylla - Cananga J.
2 Ionone Alpha 60
24 Galaxolide 50
57 Benzylacetate Nat.
5 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
25 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Ionone Alpha White Coeur

545

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Core - Kao Corp. Japan 5 Citronellol 850

46 Coumarina 3 Undecatriene
9 Vanilline 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 19
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 46 Geraniol 60
.1 Exaltolide .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
37 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 4 Orange Flower Base
4 Anthea Sandal Coeur 3 Coriander Oil - Russia
9 Benzyl Alcohol 9 Hidroxicitronelal
3 Roseone 3 Acetate de Geranyle FCC
6 Methyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Bacdanol 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
1 Iso Rose .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
110 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Tea Essence
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
4 Methyl Benzoate 2 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Parmanyl
2 Aquanol 6 Aldehyde C - 14
26 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Laurinal 1 Petilyn
72 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Fleuramone
18 Lilial .2 Nerol Coeur
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Alpha Damascone
307 Propylene Glicol
3 Methyl Dianthanol
11 Tuberose Substitute 1,000
3 Methyl Para Cresole
4 Cananga, Java
2 Ionone Alpha Refined
14 Ethylene Brassylate
57 MDJ Super
5 Cassifix
.1 Alcohol C - 9
28 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Irisone Bis

546

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 1d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberonne 5 Citronellol 850

46 Coumarina 3 Undecatriene
9 Vanilline 1 Florantone T
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 46 Geraniol 60
.1 Vanilla Tincture 20 ! .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
37 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 4 Orange Flower Base
4 Sandalore 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
9 Benzyl Alcohol 9 Hidroxicitronelal
3 Roseone 3 Acetate de Geranyle FCC
6 Methyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
110 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Anisyl Alcohol
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Rose Essence Abs.
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde - alpha 4 Myraldyl Acetate
4 Ionone Alpha 60 2 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 alpha Ionone
3 Aquanol 6 Aldehyde C - 14
26 Eugenol 3 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Hidroxcitronelal 1 Scennal
62 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Fleuramone
18 Lioral .2 Nerol Coeur
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Rose Acetate ( Rose Crystals )
317 Di Propylene Glicol
3 Bisabolene
10 Tuberose Substitute 1,000
3 Methyl Para Cresole
4 Cananga Macrophylla - Cananga J.
2 y - Irone
4 Cashmeran
57 Benzylacetate Nat.
5 Vert de Cassis Givco
.1 Alcohol C - 9
35 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Methyl Ionone

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 1e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberlyn 5 Citronellol 850

46 Helional 3 2, 6 Nonadien 1 ol - Bedoukian
9 Vanilline 1 Florantone T
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP 46 Geraniol Prime
.1 Musk Abs. C’Less .1 Para Cresyl Acetate
37 Galaxolide 50 in DEP 7 Orange Flower Base
4 Anthea Sandal Coeur 6 Nutmeg Oil - India
9 Benzyl Alcohol 9 Hidroxicitronelal
3 Roseone 3 Geranyl Acetate Prime
6 Methyl Benzoate .6 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
1 Iso - Rosal 38 C .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
110 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon
6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .1 Rose Damascenia Abs.
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Fleur D’Orange Vert De 115 SA
4 Ionone Alpha 60 2 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Parmanyl
3 MelonOrg 6 Aldehyde C - 14
26 Carnation Substitute 3 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Hidroxcitronelal 1 Petilyn
72 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Florosia
8 Lilial .2 Nerol Coeur
4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Iso Rose
297 Di Propylene Glicol
3 Methyl Dianthanol
10 Tuberose Substitute 1,000
3 Methyl Para Cresole
4 Cananga Macrophylla - Cananga J.
2 Iso Jasmone
23 Musk T - Takasago
55 Acetato Benzila
5 Cassis Fragrance
.1 Alcohol C - 9
35 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra

548

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Sandela 22 Ylang Ylang III Madagascar

5 Ambrox DL 5 Eugenol
3 Rose Crystals 7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
12 Sandalwood Givaudan 53 38 Linalyl Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Citronellol Natural
7 Vanilys - Pfw 9 Orange Blossom Base
49 Musk 50 DPG .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Amborate 1 Rose Acetate
8 Galaxolide 50 3 Ionone Alpha
4 Vanilys - Pfw 12 Wardia Substitute
2 Damascenone 6 Cassis Bourgenons
51 Benzyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Ionone Alpha Refined
3 Rose Crystals 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
121 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
26 Eugenol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Iso Jasmone 2 Ylang Oil Extra
5 Galbanum Givco 51 3 Persicol SA
6 Lyral .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 3 Wardia
9 Rose Substitute 25 Linalol 99 %
5 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 4 Neroli Artessence
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Myraldyl Acetate
80 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Irisone Bis
6 Jacinthaflor 2 Phyllos
2 Jasmone 5 Orange Oil Valencia ( C.P. )
300 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 100 % 1,000
8 Hysimal
1 Honey Rose Givco 219
.1 Alcohol C - 9

549

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Sandalwood Oil - Australia, India 22 Ylang Ylang III Madagascar

5 Ambrox DL 1 Iso Eugenol
3 Rose Crystals 7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
12 Sandalwood Givaudan 53 38 Linalyl Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Citronellol Natural
7 Vanilys - Pfw 9 Orange Blossom Base
49 Musk 50 DPG .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Apritone
8 Galaxolide 50 3 alpha - Ionone
4 Vanilys - Pfw 16 Wardia Substitute
2 Beta Damascone 6 Cassis Bourgenons
51 Benzyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Ionone Alpha Refined
3 Rose Crystals 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
118 Hydroxycitronellal Pur 55 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
26 Eugenol ex Clove Bud Oil - Indesso .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Jasilyn 2 Ylang Oil Extra
5 Galbanodor 3 Persicol SA
6 Lyral .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Geranyl Linalol 3 Wardia
11 Rose Substitute 25 Linalol 99 %
5 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 4 Neroli Artessence
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Myraldyl Acetate
81 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Irisone Bis
6 Jacinthaflor 2 Rosa Centifolia Oil - France
2 Iridales 5 Orange Oil Valencia ( C.P. )
300 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 100 % 1,000
8 Troenan
1 Honey Rose Givco 84
.1 Alcohol C - 9

550

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Sandalwood Oliffac 26 Ylang Ylang III Madagascar

5 Amberfleur 5 Eugenol
3 Rose Crystals 7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
12 Sandalwood Substitute 38 Linalyl Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Citronellol Natural
7 Vanilys - Pfw 9 Orange Blossom Base
49 Musk 50 DPG .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Amborate 1 Rose Acetate
8 Galaxolide 50 3 Ionone Alpha
4 Vanilys - Pfw 12 Wardia Substitute
2 Bois - De - Rose Oil 6 Cassis Bourgenons
51 Benzyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Ionone Alpha Refined
3 Rose Crystals 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
121 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
26 Eugenol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Damascenone Alfa 2 Ylang Oil Extra
5 Galbanum Coeur 3 Persicol SA
6 Lyral .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 3 Wardia
9 Rose Substitute 25 Linalol 99 %
5 Cananga Java 4 Neroli Artessence
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
80 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Irisone Bis
6 Troenan 2 Phyllos
2 Cis Jasmone 5 Orange Oil Valencia ( C.P. )
300 Di Propileno Glico
1 Acetato Geranila
34 Geraniol 100 % 1,000
8 Hysimal
1 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 10

551

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 2d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

15 Sandalwood Orpur Italy - Givaudan 23 Ylang Ylang III Madagascar

5 Amberonne 5 Eugenol
2 Benzophenone 7 Boise de Rose, Brazil
12 Sandalwood Givaudan 53 38 Linalyl Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Citronellol Prime
7 Vanilys - Pfw 9 Orange Blossom Base
49 Musk Clear .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Amborate 1 Rose Oil - Bulgaria
8 Galaxolide 50 3 Ionone Alpha
4 Vanilys - Pfw 9 Wardia Substitute
2 Alpha Damascone 6 Cassis Bourgenons
51 Benzyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
3 Rose Crystals 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
121 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
26 Eugenol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Benzyl Acetate 2 Ylang Oil Extra
5 Galbanum Givco 51 3 ( C - 14 )
6 Lyral .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 6 Wardia
9 Rose Substitute 25 Linalol 99 %
5 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 4 Petitgrain Oil
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 6 Myraldyl Acetate
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Irisone Bis
6 Jacinthaflor 2 Phyllos
2 Jasilyn 5 Orange Oil of California
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Damascenia 185 SA
42 Geraniol 100 % 1,000
8 Hidroxicitronelal
1 Honey Rose Givco 219
.1 Alcohol C - 9

552

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 2e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Sandela 26 Ylang Ylang III Madagascar

5 Ambrox DL 5 Eugenol
3 Rose Crystals 7 Iridales
12 Sandalwood Givaudan 53 38 Linalyl Acetate
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Citronellol 80
7 Vanilys - Pfw 9 Orange Blossom Base
45 Musk 50 DPG .3 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Ylang Ylang 3 1 Rose Acetate
8 Cashmeran 3 Ionone Alpha
4 Vanilys - Pfw 12 Wardia Substitute
2 Damascenone 6 Cassis Bourgenons
51 Benzyl Acetate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Ionone Alpha Refined
3 Rose Crystals 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
121 Muguet Base 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 15
26 Eugenol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Iso Jasmone 2 Ylang - Ylang Oil’s
5 Galbanum Givco 51 3 Persicol SA
6 Lyral .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
3 Methyl Octyl Ketone 3 Wardia
9 Rose Substitute 25 Linalol 99 %
5 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 4 Orangeflor
7 Phenylethylalcohol 6 Myraldyl Acetate
80 Iso Raldeine Substitute 3 Irisone Bis
6 Jacinthaflor 2 Phyllos
2 Jasmone 5 Orange Oil ( Cold Pressed ) - USA
300 Di Propileno Glico
1 Damascenia 185 SA
38 Geraniol 100 % 1,000
8 Hysimal
1 Hidroxicitronelaldimethylacetal
.1 Alcohol C - 9

553

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 1c 2 Nerol

10 Benzylalcohol .1 Polarose
48 Coumarin Substitute 17 Ethylene Brassylate
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 24 Linalol
19 Macrolide - Symrise 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
8 Sandela “T” 3 Nepalva
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
6 Vanillin 4 Cetonal V
5 Cashmeran .1 Orange Flower Water
3 Fleuramone 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 20 Geraniol Fine
5 Methyl Benzoate 11 Ylang Givco 225
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Benzophenone .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
1 Iritone V 3 Nerol
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 2 Bois Amberene Forte
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Floranton T
28 Eugenol 4 Wardia
53 Hedione 1 Rose Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 9 3 Cassis Fragrance D
5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
62 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 alpha - Ionone Extra
9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
1 Beta Damascone 2 Bourgenal
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Iso Rose
8 y - Irone 1 Farnesyl Acetate
16 Liral 35 Linalyl Acetate
5 Citronellol 850 .3 Bourgenal

1,000

554

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 1a 2 Palmarosa Oil - India

10 Hercolyn - D .1 Polarose
48 Coumarin Substitute 5091 P 7 Ethylene Brassylate
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 24 Linalol
19 Musk R - 1 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
8 Sandalore 3 Cananga Java
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
6 Vanillin 4 Ionone Alpha 60
5 Musk T .1 Orange Flower Water
3 Fleuramone 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 22 Geraniol Fine
5 Methyl Benzoate 11 Ylang Ylang Petals
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Benzophenone .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
1 Iridales 3 Nerol
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 2 Bois Amberene Forte
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Orange Oil Bitter ( W.I. )
28 Eugenol 4 Wardia
53 MDJ Super 1 Rose Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 9 3 Cassis Fragrance D
5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
62 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 alpha - Ionone Extra
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 6 Geranyl Acetate nat.
1 Damascone Total 2 Bourgenal
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Iso Rose
8 alpha - Ionone Extra 1 Farnesyl Acetate
16 Hydrofix R 35 Linalyl Acetate
5 Citronellol Prime .3 Bourgenal

1,000

555

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 1d 2 Nerol

10 Hercolin - D .1 Polarose
46 Coumarin 7 Musc Emeressence
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 24 Linalol Pur
19 Serenolide 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
8 Amyris Oil W.I. 3 Nepalva
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
6 Vanillin 4 Cetonal V
5 Cashmeran .1 Orange Flower Water
3 Fleuramone 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 20 Geraniol Fine
7 Methyl Benzoate 11 Ylang Givco 225
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 4 Iso Eugenol Tech
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Benzophenone .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
1 Iritone V 3 Nerol
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 2 Lyral
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Floranton T
28 Eugenol 4 Wardia
53 Hedione 1 Rose Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 9 3 Cassis Fragrance D
5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
62 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 alpha - Ionone Extra
19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Bourgenal
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Rosa
8 Irone Alpha 1 Farnesyl Acetate
16 Liral 35 Linalyl Acetate
5 Citronellol Nat. .3 Bourgenal

1,000

556

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 3d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 1c 2 Nerol

10 Alcool Benzila .1 Rosalva
48 Coumarin Substitute 17 Ethylene Brassylate
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 24 Linalol
19 Musk Ambrette Substitute 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
8 Sandela “T” 3 Nepalva
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
6 Vanillin 4 Iris Beurre Oil
5 Cashmeran .1 Violiff
3 Fleuramone 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
15 Hydroxy ciol 26 Geraniol Prime
5 Methyl Benzoate 11 Ylang Givco 236
6 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar 3 Iso Eugenol ( Dianthanol )
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Benzophenone .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
1 Irisone Bis 3 Nerol
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 2 Bois Amberene Forte
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Floranton T
28 Eugenol 4 Ylang Oil Extra
53 Benzyl Acetate 1 Rose Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 9 3 Cassis Fragrance D
5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
56 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 alpha - Ionone Extra
9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Geranyl Acetate nat.
1 Beta Damascone 2 Bourgenal
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Iso Rose
8 y - Irone 1 Farnesyl Acetate
16 Hydroxycitronellol 36 Linalyl Acetate
5 Citronellol FCC .3 Bourgenal

1,000

557

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 3e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Exaltolide 12 Rose For Soap Base

1 Cedrol Crystals .1 Polarose
48 Coumarin Substitute 17 Ethylene Brassylate
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 24 Linalol
19 Macrolide - Symrise 9 Orange Blossom Substitute
8 Sandiff 3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
27 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .1 Flor De Laranjeira Abs.
6 Vanillin 4 Cetonal V
5 Cashmeran .1 Orange Flower Water
3 Fleuramone 5 Amyl Cyclo Pentenone
15 Hydroxy Citronellal 20 Geraniol Fine
5 Methyl Benzoate 11 Ylang Givco 225
6 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 4 Eugenyl Acetate
17 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
1 Benzophenone .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
1 Ionone Alpha Coeur 3 Nerol
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 2 Bois Amberene Forte
124 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Floranton T
28 Eugenol 4 Wardia
53 MDJ 1 Rose Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 9 3 Cassis Fragrance D
5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 2 Ylang Odorata Oil
62 Ionone Alpha 60 1 alpha - Ionone Extra
11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1 Methyl Tuberate pure
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 4 Geranyl Acetate nat.
1 Beta Damascone 2 Bourgenal
2 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Iso Rose
8 y - Irone 1 Farnesyl Acetate
16 Liral 35 Linalyl Acetate
5 Citronellol Pure .3 Bourgenal

1,000

558

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Anthea Sandal Coeur .7 Cananga Java

49 Coumarin 4 Aubepine
1 Ambergris .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
37 Musk 50 DPG 1 Synabran
6 Iso & Super 22 Ylang Ylang Substitute
7 Vanilla Resinoid 11 Geraniol ex Palmarosa Oil
2 Helioforte 3 Apple Juice Givco 114
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
1 Heliotropine 2 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Mugentanol 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
17 Musk 50 in DPG 1 Ivyal
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Iso Jasmone 1 Tubereuse 181
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Iso Rose
2 Methyl Benzoate 4 Cassis Fragrance B
1 Ylang Oils 2 Meranol
109 Hydroxycitronellal .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Citronellol 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Eugenol / Clove 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Petilyn 4 Cinnamalva
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
22 Super Cepionate 1 Carnaline
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Bourgenal
20 Geraniol 970 18 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
7 Alcool Phenyl Etil
4 Boisnal
5 Hydroxycitronellal 55
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 Linalol 98 %

559

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Anthea Sandal Coeur .7 Mugone S 207 M

49 Coumarin 4 Anisicaldehyde
1 Amberfleur .1 Folione
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
37 Musk 50 DPG 1 Vanilla Alcohol
6 Iso & Super 26 Ylang Ylang Substitute
6 Vanilla Resinoid 11 Geraniol For Soap AB 2015
2 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % - Chine 3 Apple Juice Givco 114
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 19
1 Bisabolene 2 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Mugentanol 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
17 Musk 50 in DPG 1 Ivyal
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Iso Jasmone 1 Tubereuse 181
3 Vanillinethyl 1 Iso Rose
2 Methyl Benzoate 4 Cassis Fragrance B
1 Cananga Oil Java 2 Meranol
111 Hydroxycitronellal .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Citronellol 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Eugenol / Clove 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Petilyn 4 Cinnamalva
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
22 Super Cepionate 1 Carnaline
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Bourgenal
20 Geraniol 970 18 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Methyl Jasmonate
12 Ionone Alpha Pure 1,000
6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Boisnal
5 Hydroxycitronellal A
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 Linalol 99 %

560

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Sandalwood Oliffac .6 Ylang Ylang III

49 Coumarin 4 Aubepine
1 Amber Core - Kao Corp. Japan .1 Neofolione
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
37 Musk 50 DPG 1 Synabran
6 Iso & Super 30 Ylang Ylang Substitute
7 Vanilla Resinoid 11 Geraniol ex Palmarosa Oil
2 Helioforte 3 Apple Juice Givco 114
75 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
1 Heliotropine 2 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Meijiff 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
17 Musk 50 in DPG 1 Ivyal
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Iso Jasmone 1 Roseiff - IFF
7 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Iso Rose
2 Methyl Benzoate 4 Cassis Fragrance B
.1 Para Cresyl Redistilled 2 Meranol
101 Hydroxycitronellal .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Citronellol 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Methyl Octyl Ketone
7 Petilyn 4 Cinnamalva
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
22 Super Cepionate 2 Isoeugenol ( Carnation ) Dianthanol
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Bourgenal
20 Geraniol 970 18 Linalylacetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmone
12 Ionone Alpha 1,000
7 Alcool Phenyl Ethyl
4 Ivyal
5 Hydroxycitronellol
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 Linalool

561

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 4d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Sandalwood Oil New Caladonia .7 Cananga Java

49 Coumarina - Lluche ( Spain ) 4 Aubepine
1 Rionyl .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
37 Musk 50 DPG 1 Stemone
6 Iso & Super 32 Ylang Ylang Substitute
7 Vanilla Resinoid 11 Geraniol ex Palmarosa Oil
2 Lyrame 3 Apple Juice Givco 114
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
1 Heliotropine 2 alpha - Ionone Extra
8 Mugentanol 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
17 Musk 50 in DPG 1 Ivyal
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 MDj 1 Tubereuse 181
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Iso Rose
2 Methyl Benzoate 4 Cassis Fragrance B
1 Ylang Oils 2 Meranol
99 Hydroxycitronellal .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Citronellol 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Carnation Base 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Petilyn 4 Cinnamalva
.1 Alcohol C - 9 .1 Leaf Alcohol
22 Cepionate 1 Carnaline
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Meranol
20 Geraniol 970 18 Linalyl Acetate Special 98.5 %
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
7 Alcool Phenyl Etil
4 Mallow
5 Hydroxy Citronellal Dma
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 Linalool

562

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 4e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Sandalore .7 Cananga Java

49 Coumarin 4 Aubepine
1 Ambergris .1 Folione
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
37 Musk 50 DPG 1 Synabran
6 Iso & Super 26 Ylang Ylang Substitute
7 Vanisal 11 Geraniol ex Palmarosa Oil
2 Helioforte 3 Apple Juice Givco 114
74 Hydroxycitronellal Sub. 1 Orange Flower Augaflor 17
1 Heliotropine 2 Iris Beurre Oil
8 Mugentanol 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
17 Musk NC - A 1 Ivyal
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Iso Jasmone 1 Tubereuse 181
7 Vanillinethyl 1 Iso Rose
2 Methyl Benzoate 4 Cassis Fragrance B
3 Ylang Ylang Extra 2 Meranol
109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Citronellol 98 % 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Eugenol / Clove 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
7 Petilyn 4 Cinnamalva
.1 Anisyl Propanol .1 Leaf Alcohol
22 Benzyl Acetate 1 Carnaline
89 Ionone Intremediate Base 1 Bourgenal
20 Geraniol 970 18 Linalyl Acetate
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Jasmylone 99
12 Ionone Alpha 60 1,000
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Boisnal
1 Cananga Java - Indonesia - Fritzsche
.4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan

563

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate .2 Alcohol C - 9

8 Amyris Wood Oil 6 Cassis Fragrance F
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 Heliotropine .1 Violiff
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
53 Ethylene Brassylate 2 Eugenyl Acetate
6 Sandalore 3 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Vanilline 15 Tuberose Substitute
.1 Polarose 1 y - Irone
21 Benzyl Salicylate 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
10 Hedione 3 Iridales
3 Petilyn 10 Orange Blossom Base
62 Benzylacetate 4 Wardia
107 Muguet Base 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
25 Geraniol 60 .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
8 Laurinal 4 Nerol Petals
1 Rosone 5 Iritone V
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
4 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
21 Eugenol .1 Florymoss
6 Di Methyl Octanol 24 Linalyl Acetate
4 Lyrame - IFF 1 Lindenol
1 Iso Rose
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1,000
2 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol Pure
1 Jasmonyl Acetate
33 Linalol S 97
2 Mugone S 207 M
3 Lily Aldehyde
24 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Orange Flor Deco

564

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate .2 Alcohol C - 9

8 Amyris Wood Oil 6 Cassis Fragrance F
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 Heliotropine .1 Violiff
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
53 Ethylene Brassylate 2 Eugenyl Acetate
6 Sandalore 3 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Vanilline 15 Tuberose Substitute
.1 Polarose 1 y - Irone
17 Benzyl Propionate 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
10 Jasmone 3 Iris Beurre Oil
3 Petilyn 13 Orange Blossom Base
62 Benzylacetate 4 Wardia
107 Hydroxycitronellal 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
25 Geraniol 60 .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
8 Laurinal 4 Nerol
1 Rosone 5 Vioris
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
4 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
21 Eugenol .1 Florymoss
6 Di Methyl Octanol 24 Linalyl Acetate
4 Lyrame - IFF 1 Syringa
1 Iso Rose
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
310 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1,000
2 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Citronellol Pure
1 Ylang Extra Comoros
33 Linalol
2 Mugone S 207 M
3 Lyral
28 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Orange Flor Deco

565

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol FR .2 Alcohol C - 9

8 Sandal Amiris 6 Cassis Fragrance F
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 Heliotropine .1 Undecavertol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
53 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 2 Eugenyl Acetate
6 Sandalore 3 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Vanillin 5 Tuberose Substitute
.1 Rosalva 1 y - Irone
21 Benzyl Salicylate 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
10 Hedione 3 alpha - Ionone Extra
3 Petilyn 10 Orange Blossom Base
62 Benzylacetate 4 Wardia
107 Muguet Base 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
25 Geraniol Pur .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
8 Laurinal 3 Nerol Petals
1 Rosone 5 Iritone V
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
4 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
21 Eugenol .1 Florymoss
6 Di Methyl Octanol 25 Linalyl Acetate
2 Lifetaal 1 Lindenol
1 Iso Rose
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1,000
2 Irisone Bis
.1 Anisyl Alcohol
15 Citronellol 60
1 Jasmone
33 Linalol
2 Mugone S 207 M
3 Lily Aldehyde
34 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Orange Flor Deco

566

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 5d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate .2 Violet Leaves

8 Amyris Wood Oil 6 Galbanum - Givco ( Iran ) Orpur
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Heliotropine .1 Violiff
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Myraldyl Acetate
53 Ethylene Brassylate 2 Carnaline ( Iso - Eugenol )
6 Sandalore 3 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Vanilline 15 Tuberose Substitute
.1 Polarose 1 y - Irone
21 Benzyl Salicylate 12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
10 Hedione 3 Iridales
3 Petilyn 10 Orange Blossom Base
62 Benzyl Acetate FCC 4 Wardia
108 Muguet Base 3 Noix Muscade Indonesie
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
25 Geraniol 60 .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
8 Laurinal 4 Nerol
1 Rosone 5 Ionone Alpha Refined
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
4 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
21 Eugenol .1 Florymoss
9 Citronellol Prime 24 Linalyl Acetate
4 Lyrame - IFF 1 Lindenol
1 Iso Rose
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1,000
2 Irisone Bis
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
13 Rose Base # 60
1 Iso Jasmone
33 Linalol S 97
2 Ylang Oils
1 Hidroxicitronelal
26 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Aurantiol

567

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 5e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate .2 Viola Odorata L.

8 Amyris Wood Oil 6 Cassis Fragrance F
.1 Anisyl Alcohol .8 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
5 Heliotropine .1 Violiff
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Hydroxycitronellol
53 Serenolide 2 Eugenyl Acetate
6 Santalol 3 Vert de Cassis Givco
9 Vanilline 12 Tuberose Substitute
.1 Polarose 1 y - Irone
21 Benzyl Salicylate 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
10 Hedione 3 Iridales
3 Petilyn 10 Orange Blossom Base
62 Benzylacetate 4 Wardia
107 Muguet Base 2 Iso Moghanol
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Jacinthe ( Base 4512/2 )
25 Geraniol 60 .4 Vanillyl Alcohol
8 Laurinal 4 Nerol Petals
1 Bisabolene 5 Iritone V
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Orange Flower Augustus 15
4 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
21 Iso Eugenol Replacement .1 Florymoss
6 Di Methyl Octanol 25 Linalyl Acetate
4 Lyrame - IFF 1 Lindenol
2 Ivyal
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
314 Di Propylene Glycol ( DPG ) 1,000
2 Givescone
.1 Vanilla Resinoid
12 Citronellol Pure
1 Vioris
33 Linalol S 97
2 Mugone S 207 M
3 Lily Aldehyde
30 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Orange Flower Augaflor 17

568

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 6a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs C’Less 26 Geraniol 970

7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
49 Coumane 1 Bourgeons De Cassis
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Orange Flower Augustus 73
39 Traseolide 100 Base 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
7 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Florsantal 1 Caryophelline
19 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
2 Rose Crystals 2 Cassifix
3 Muskylein 1 Sandolen
54 Benzyl Acetate 5 Muguet Aldehyde
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Rose Essence Abs.
4 Amyris Oil ( Sandalwood ) Fine 1 Caraway Oil Bourbon
108 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute 3 Iso E Super
4 Alicate 1 Green Key Base # 51
2 Heliotropine 27 Linalyl Acetate
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 5 Nerol
5 Vanillinethyl 7 Myraldyl Acetate
14 Hedione 1 Ylang Ylang III Petals
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Iso Eugenol
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Hysimal
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Iso Mohaganol
3 y - Irone 1,000
4 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia Fleuriff
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Jasmonyl Acetate
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
3 Cananga Oil Java
.1 Ylang, Complete
.1 Ylang Ylang Abs. - Comoros
5 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Orange Bigarade Ivory Coast

569

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 6b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs C’Less 26 Geraniol 970

7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
49 Coumane 1 Bourgeons De Cassis
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Orange Flower Augustus 73
39 Tonalid II 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
7 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Florsantal 1 Pepperwood - Givaudan
19 Hydroxycitronellol 4 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
2 Rose Crystals 2 Stemone
3 Vanilys - Pfw 1 Sandolen
54 Benzyl Acetate Pure 5 Muguet Aldehyde
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Rose Essence Abs.
4 Santaliff 1 Caraway Oil Bourbon
108 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Iso E Super
4 Alicate 1 Green Key Base # 9
2 Heliotropine 27 Linalyl Acetate
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 5 Nerol
5 Vanillinethyl 7 Myraldyl Acetate
14 Hedione 1 Ylang Ylang III Petals
25 Eugenol ( Substitute ) - Carnation 4 Rhodiascent
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Hysimal
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Sanjinol
3 y - Irone 1,000
4 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia Fleuriff
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 60
1 Iso Jasmone
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
3 Cananga Oil Java
.1 Ylang, Complete
.1 Ylang Ylang Abs. - Comoros
5 Cassione
3 Orange Sweet

570

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 6c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Abs C’Less 26 Geraniol 970

7 Vanillin .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
49 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 1 Bourgeons De Cassis
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Orange Flower Augustus 73
39 Traseolide 100 Base 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
7 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Florsantal 1 Caryophelline
19 Hydroxycitronellal A 3 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
1 Roseone 1 Cassifix
3 Vanilline 1 Sandolen
54 Benzyl Acetate 5 Muguet Aldehyde
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Rose Essence Abs.
4 Sandal Oliffac 1 Caraway Oil Bourbon
108 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute 3 Santal Coeur
4 Alicate 1 Green Key Base # 51
2 Heliotropine 27 Linalyl Acetate
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 5 Geranium Oil Pure
5 Vanillinethyl 7 Myraldyl Acetate
14 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Ylang Ylang I
25 Eugenol 4 Iso Eugenol
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Jasmone
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Iso Mohaganol
3 y - Irone 1,000
4 Methyl Benzoate
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Methyl Benzoate
3 Geranyl Acetate 60
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
17 Ylang Ylang Substitute
3 Cananga Oil, Indonesia
.1 Ylang Oils
.1 Ylang Ylang Abs. - Comoros
5 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Orange Oil Bitter ( W.I. )

571

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 6d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk 15 26 Geraniol 970

7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
49 Rhodiascent 1 Bourgeons De Cassis
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Orange Flower Augustus 73
39 Traseolide 100 Base 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
7 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Florsantal 1 Ghost Lily - Givaudan
19 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
2 Rosa Crystals 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
3 Muskylein 1 Santaliff
54 Benzyl Acetate 5 Muguet Aldehyde
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Rose Essence Abs.
4 Velvione 1 Caraway Oil Bourbon
108 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute 3 Kephalis
4 Alicate 1 Green Key Base # 51
2 Methyl Benzoate 27 Linalyl Acetate
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 5 Petilyn
5 Vanillinethyl 7 Myraldyl Acetate
14 Acetate Bencila 1 Ylang Ylang
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Iso Eugenol
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Hydrofix R
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Givescone
3 y - Irone 1,000
4 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia Fleuriff
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 Thesaron
3 Geranyl Acetate 60 FCC
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
3 Cananga Oil Java
.1 Ylang
.1 Ylang Ylang Abs. - Comoros
5 Vert de Cassis Givco
3 Orange

572

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 6e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Velvione 26 Geraniol 60
7 Vanilla Resinoid .5 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
49 Coumane 1 Bourgeons De Cassis
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Orange Flower Augustus 73
39 Traseolide - Quest International 34 Ethyl Linalool - Givaudan
7 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .7 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Florsantal 1 Bisabolene
19 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Geranium over Roses - Naradev
2 Rose Crystals 2 Cassifix
3 Muskylein 1 Sandolen
54 Methyl Di Hydro Jasmonate - MDJ 5 Muguet Aldehyde
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Rose Essence Abs.
4 Osyrol 1 Coriander Oil
108 Hydroxycitronellol Substitute 3 Iso E Super
4 Alicate 1 Green Key Base # 51
2 Heliotropine 27 Linalyl Acetate Special 98.5 %
23 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 5 Geraniol ex Palmarosa Oil
5 Ethylvanillin 7 Myraldyl Acetate
14 Hedione 1 Ylang Ylang III Coeur
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Iso Eugenol
91 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Acetate - De Benzyle
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Sandalore
3 Benteine 1,000
4 Methyl Benzoate
5 Gardenia Synthetic
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Citronellol 96 FCC
1 iso - Jasmone
3 Geranyl Acetate
.2 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
3 Cananga Oil Java
.1 Ylang, Complete
.1 Ylang Ylang Abs. - Comoros
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
3 Orange Oil of Italy - C.C.C.

573

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 7a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin ex Benzaldehyde 11 Geraniol ex Hydroxycitronellal

4 Musk Emeressence 8 MelonOrg
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
.1 Civet Augustus 17 1 Di Methyl Octanol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 Neroli Oliffac
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
17 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
5 Musk Clear 5 Florantone T
1 Rose Crystals 30 Geraniol Prime
4 alpha - Ionone Extra 29 Linalol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Blossom Base
69 Benzylacetate .1 Violiff
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
7 MDJ Super 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
21 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
1 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Geranyl Acetate
.2 Alcohol C - 09 2 Nerol
120 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Cassis Fragrance F
12 Santalox T Neat .1 Leaf Alcohol
5 Cashmeran 3 Ionone Alpha
78 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 6 Orangeflor
1 Rose Crystals 1 Methyl Benzoate
23 Eugenol / Clove 1 Bois Amberene Forte
14 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Magnol 2 Kir Base # 9741
315 Di Propylene Glycol 36 Acetate de Linalyl
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol Ex Citriodora
6 Pomarose 1,000
4 Fleuramone
26 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

574

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin ex Benzaldehyde 11 Geraniol ex Hydroxycitronellal

4 Musk R - 1 8 MelonOrg
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
.1 Civet Augustus 17 1 Di Methyl Octanol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 Neroli Oliffac
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
17 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
5 Musk Clear 5 Florantone T
1 Rose Crystals 30 Geraniol 60
4 alpha - Ionone Extra 29 Linalol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Blossom Base
69 Benzylacetate .1 Violiff
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
7 Benzyl Acetate Pure 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
21 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
1 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Nerol Pure
.2 Alcohol C - 09 2 Nerol
120 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Cassis Fragrance F
12 Sandanol .1 Leaf Alcohol
5 Cashmeran 3 alpha - Ionone Extra
75 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 6 Orangeflor
1 Rose Crystals 1 Methyl Benzoate
23 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
14 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Methyl Nonyl Ketone 2 Kir Base # 9741
315 Di Propylene Glycol 36 Acetate de Linalyl
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol Prime
6 Pomarose 1,000
4 Florosia
29 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

575

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 7c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 11 Geraniol ex Hydroxycitronellal

4 Musk Emeressence 8 Fruitaleur
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
.1 Civet Augustus 14 1 Di Methyl Octanol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 Neroli Oliffac
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
17 Sandela .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
5 Musk Clear 5 Florantone T
1 Rose Crystals 30 Geraniol Prime
4 Ionone 29 Linalol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Blossom Base
68 Benzyl Acetate Nat. .1 Folione
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
7 MDJ Super 1 Iso Jasmon
21 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
1 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Geranyl Acetate
.2 Vioris 2 Nerol
116 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Cassis Fragrance F
12 Woodynol II - FFC Aroma .1 Leaf Alcohol
5 Cashmeran 3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
78 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 6 Orangeflor
1 Benzophenone 1 Methyl Benzoate
23 Eugenol / Clove 1 Bois Amberene Forte
14 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Eugenyl Acetate
2 Magnol 2 Kir Base # 9741
315 Di Propylene Glycol 36 Acetate de Linalyl
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol Ex Citriodora
6 Benteine 1,000
4 Ylang Oil Extra
31 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

576

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 7d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillys - Pfw 11 Geraniol 970

4 Musk Emeressence 8 Melon Oliffac - IFF
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
.1 Civet Artificial # 1a 1 iso - Jasmone
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 Neroli Oliffac
19 Benzyl Propionate .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
17 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
5 Musk Clear 5 Florantone T
1 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 30 Geraniol Prime
4 Iris Beurre Oil 29 Linalol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Blossom Base
69 Benzylacetate .1 Violiff
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
7 MDJ Super 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
21 Hydroxicitronelal .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
1 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Geranyl Acetate
.2 Alcohol C - 09 3 Iso Rose
120 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Cassis Fragrance F
12 Santalox T Neat .1 ( Stems & Leaves ) - Green
5 Cashmeran 3 Ionone Alpha
78 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 6 Orangeflor
1 Rose Crystals 1 Methyl Benzoate
23 Eugenol / Clove 1 Bois Amberene Forte
14 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Iso Eugenol
2 Aubepine ( Anisque Aldeido ) 2 Stemone
315 Di Propylene Glycol 35 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol 80
6 Irisone Bis 1,000
4 Fleuramone
26 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

577

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 7e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Vanillin ex Benzaldehyde 11 Geraniol ex Hydroxycitronellal

4 Musk Emeressence 8 Apple Oliffac
9 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
.1 Civet Augustus 17 1 Rhodinol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 Orange Flower ( Bitter )
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
17 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Rose Bulgaria Abs.
5 Musk Clear 5 Florantone T
1 Rose Crystals 30 Geraniol Prime
4 Iridales 28 Linalool
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Blossom Base
69 Benzyl Acetate FCC .1 Undecavertol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
7 Acetate Benzyle 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
21 Hydroxyciol .1 Aldehyde C 13 - 13
1 Ethyl Vanillin 5 Geranyl Acetate Prime
.2 Alcohol C - 10 2 Nerol
120 Hydroxycitronellal 1 Cassis Fragrance F
12 Santalol .1 Rose Oxide R.
5 Cashmeran 3 Ionone Alpha
78 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 6 Aurantiol
1 Rose Acetate 2 Methyl Benzoate
23 Eugenol / Clove 1 Bois Amberene Forte
14 Hydroxycitronelloldimethylacetal 3 Methyl Iso Eugenol
2 Magnol 2 Kir Base # 9741
315 Di Propylene Glycol 35 Linalyl Acetate
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
7 Citronellol Ex Citriodora
4 Anis Aldehyde 1,000
4 Fleuramone
28 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

578

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 8a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Rhodiascent - Rhodia ( France ) .2 Alcohol C - 9

3 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Bourgenal
58 Musk Ambrette Substitute 33 Linalol Pur
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Methoxyycitronellal Q
.1 Civet Ethiopian Paste .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
32 DEP 3 Troenan
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang I Petals
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
31 Benzyl Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Orpur - Givaudan
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
9 Vanilys 5 Cassis Fragrance
2 Cashmeran .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Iso Jasmone .3 Tubereuse 181
12 Hedione 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
2 Methyl Benzoate 5 Lyrame
97 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Wardia
5 Citronellol 70 % .1 Geraniol 600
3 Helional 1 Perryfix - Creations Aromatiques
9 Hydroxy Citronellol 3 Nerol Coeur
36 Geraniol Pure
27 Carnation Base
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
1 Carnaline
1 Iso Raldeine 70
8 Phenylethylalcohol
29 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Jasmone

579

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 8b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumane .2 Alcohol C - 9
1 Benzoin Resinoid # 5 - Laos 7 Bourgenal
58 Musk Ambrette Substitute 33 Linalol Pur
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Methoxyycitronellal Q
.1 Civet Augaflor 23 .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
32 DEP 3 Ivyal
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang I Petals
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
31 Benzyl Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
9 Vanilys 5 Cassis Fragrance
2 Musk R - 1 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
101 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Geraniol ( 980 Pure ) .3 Tuberose Oliffac
12 Hedione 2 Dianthanol
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
2 Methyl Benzoate 5 Lyrame
97 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Wardia
5 Citronellol 70 % .1 Geraniol 600
3 Terpineol Prime ( Perfumery Grade ) 1 Perryfix - Symrise ( Perry Brothers )
9 Hydroxy Citronellol 3 Lindenol
46 Geraniol Pure
27 Iso Eugenol Replacement
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
1 Carnaline
1 Honey Rose Givco 226
8 Phenylethylalcohol
31 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

580

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 8c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Crystals .2 Orris Resinoid

3 Benzylalcohol 7 Bourgenal
58 Musk Ambrette Substitute 33 Linalol Pur
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Methoxyycitronellal Q
.1 Civet Ethiopian Paste .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
32 DEP 3 Troenan
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Beta Damascone .1 Ylang Ylang II Petals
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
31 Benzyl Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor
3 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
9 Vanilys 5 Cassis Fragrance
2 Cashmeran .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Iso Jasmone .3 Tubereuse 181
12 Hedione 2 Methyl Dianthanol
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate Nat.
2 Methyl Benzoate 5 Lyrame
97 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Wardia
5 Citronellol 70 % .1 Rose Attar
3 Helional 1 Perryfix - Creations Aromatiques
9 Hydroxy Citronellol Dma 3 Rosaphen
36 Geraniol Pure
27 Carnation Base
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
1 Jasmin Oil P.g.
1 Iritone V
8 Phenylethylalcohol
29 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Methyl Jasmonate Pure

581

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 8d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Di Hydro Coumarex .2 Alcohol C - 9

3 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Scennal
58 Musk Ambrette Substitute 33 Linalool
.1 Amberfleur 2 Methoxyycitronellal Q
.1 Civet Ethiopian Paste .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
32 DEP 3 Muguesia
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Damascenone Alpha .1 Ylang Ylang Premiers Comoros
10 Benzyl Propionate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
31 Benzyl Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Augaflor 17
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
9 Vanilline 2 Vert de Cassis Givco
2 Cashmeran .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
111 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Iso Jasmone .3 Rose Oil Turkish
12 Hedione 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate
2 Methyl Benzoate 5 Lyrame
97 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Orange Oil Bitter W.I.
5 Citronellol 70 % .1 Geraniol 600
3 Helional 1 Perryfix - Symrise
9 Hydroxy Citronellol 2 Phyllos
36 Geraniol Pure
27 Carnation Base
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
4 Phenafleur
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
1 Eugenyl Acetate
1 Iso Raldeine 70
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
29 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Para Cresyl redistilled

582

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 8e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

47 Coumarin Substitute .2 Alcohol C - 9

3 Benzyl Alcohol 7 Bourgenal
58 Musk T ( Etilene Brassilato ) 33 Linalol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Methoxyycitronellal Q
.1 Civet .4 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
32 DEP 3 Troenan
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 18 Orange Blossom Base
1 Beta Damascone .1 Ylang Ylang I Petals
10 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
31 Benzyl Acetate 4 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
5 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Orange Blossom Orpur - Givaudan
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
9 Vanilys 5 Bois Amberene Forte
2 Cashmeran .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
111 Muguet ( Lily of the Valley Base ) 25 Linalyl Acetate
3 Iso Jasmone .3 Methyl Tuberate Pure
12 Hedione 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
9 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Geranyl Acetate
2 Methyl Benzoate 5 Neo - Geraniol Oil
97 Ionone Alpha 1 Wardia
5 Citronellol 70 % .1 Geraniol 600
3 Helional 1 Perryfix - Creations Aromatiques
9 Hydroxy Citronellol 2 Iso Rose
36 Geraniol Pure
27 Iso Eugenol Replacement
320 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
4 Cananga Oil Java
2 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
1 Cinnamalva
1 iso - ionone
8 Phenylethylalcohol
29 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.1 Jamaica Oil

583

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 9a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civetone 1 Geraniol Prime

10 Benzyl Benzoate 17 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
46 Musk 50 DEP 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate ( DEP ) .1 Vioris
5 Vanillin 3 Orangeflor
11 Sandec Givco 5 Wardia
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 27 Ethyl Linalool
51 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
9 Iso & Super 3 Top Galbanum Oil
4 Hydrofix L 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyl 15 Phenylethylalcohol
51 Hedione 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Florosia 2 Kir Base # 9741
7 Sandalwood Oliffac .4 Methyl Tuberate
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flor
94 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Sensient
6 Methyl Benzoate 9 Linalyl Acetate 99.5 % Pure
3 Citronellol Nat. .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
1 Sandalore 1 Florantone T
9 Lyral .1 Galbanum Absolue
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Ionone
7 Bonorax 1 Florosia
9 alpha - Ionone Extra 3 Bourgenal
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Iso Jasmone Pure
24 Geraniol 60 % ( Nerol 39 % ) 1,000
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
5 Nutmeg, Ceylon

584

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 9b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet 1 Geraniol Prime

10 Hercolyn - D 17 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
46 Globanone 4 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate ( DEP ) .1 Iris Beurre Oil
5 Vanillin 3 Orangeflor
11 Indisan 5 Wardia
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 27 Ethyl Linalool
51 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
9 Iso & Super 3 Top Galbanum Oil
4 Mugone S 207 M 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol 15 Phenylethylalcohol
51 Hedione 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Florosia 2 Kir Base # 9741
7 Sandalwood Oliffac .4 Methyl Tuberate
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flor
94 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
53 Benzyl Acetate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Sensient
6 Methyl Benzoate 9 Linalyl Acetate 99.5 % Pure
3 Citronellol Nat. .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
1 Sandalore 1 Florantone T
9 Lyral .1 Galbanum Absolue
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Ionone
7 Methyl Octyl Ketone 1 Florosia
9 alpha - Ionone Extra 2 Bourgenal
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Iso Jasmone Pure
24 Geraniol Nat. 1,000
2 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
3 Muguet Alcohol
5 Nutmeg, W.I.

585

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 9c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civetone 1 Geraniol Prime

10 Benzyl Alcohol 17 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
46 Musk 50 DEP 4 Iso Jasmone
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate ( DEP ) .1 alpha - Ionone
5 Vanillin 3 Orangeflor
11 Sandalwood Oil East Indies 5 Wardia
23 Propionato Bencila - China 27 Ethyl Linalool
51 Coumane 14 Orange Blossom Base
9 Iso & Super 3 Galbanum Coeur
4 Muguet Aldehyde 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
1 Acetate Iso Eugenyl 15 Phenylethylalcohol
51 MDJ 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Florosia 2 Kir Base # 9741
7 Sandalwood Oliffac .4 Methyl Tuberate
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flor
94 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Palmarosa - India
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.1 Polarose 2 Sensient
6 Methyl Benzoate 9 Linalyl Acetate 99.5 % Pure
3 Citronellol Nat. .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
1 Sandela 1 Florantone T
9 Lyral .1 Galbanum Absolue
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Lyrame
7 Bonorax 1 Florosia
9 Methyl Ionone 3 Stemone
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Iso Jasmone Pure
24 Geraniol ex Palmarosa Oil 1,000
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Hidroxicitronellal
5 Caryophelline Acetate

586

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 9d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Ambergris 1 Nerol Petals

10 Benzyl Benzoate 17 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
46 Musk 50 DEP 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate ( DEP ) .1 Vioris
5 Vanillin 3 Orangeflor
11 Amyis 5 Wardia
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 27 Ethyl Linalool
51 CouMarin 14 Orange Blossom Base
9 Iso & Super 3 Top Galbanum Oil
4 Hydrofix L 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
1 Heliotropine 15 Phenylethylalcohol
51 Benteine 3 Geranyl Acetate 95 %
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Florosia 2 Cassis Fragrance
7 Brahmanol .4 Tubereuse 181
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flor
94 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Petilyn
6 Methyl Benzoate 9 Linalyl Acetate 99.5 % Pure
3 Citronellol Nat. .1 Undecavertol
1 Sandalore 1 Florantone T
9 Lyral .1 Galbanum Absolue
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Ionone
7 Bonorax 1 Florosia
9 alpha - Ionone 3 Bois Amberene Forte
295 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Iso Jasmone Pure
24 Geraniol Coeur 1,000
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Lioral
5 Bisabolene

587

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 9e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Augaflor 21 1 Geraniol Prime

10 Benzyl Benzoate 19 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
46 Musk 50 DEP 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate ( DEP ) .1 Vioris
5 Vanillin 3 Aurantiol Pure
11 Sandec Givco 5 Wardia
23 Benzyl Salicylate - Ventos 27 Linalool
51 Coumane 15 Orange Blossom Base
9 Iso & Super 3 Top Galbanum Oil
4 Hydrofix L 1 Tangerine Oil Sichuan
1 Acetatyl Iso Eugenyl 15 Phenylethylalcohol
51 Hedione 3 Acetate de Geranyle
15 Jasphene 4 Muguet Aldehyde
4 Florosia 2 Stemone
7 Iso E Super - IFF .4 Methyl Tuberate
5 Methyl Benzoate 1 Orange Flor
94 Lily of the Valley Base ( Muguet ) 3 Palmarosa, Guatemala
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 2 Sensient
6 Methyl Benzoate 8 Linalyl Acetate 99.5 % Pure
3 Citronellol - L .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
1 Sandalore 1 Florantone T
9 Hidroxicitornellal .1 Galbanum Absolute
86 Ionone Intrmediate Base .1 Iris Beurre Essence
7 Bonorax 1 Florosia
9 alpha - ionone 3 Bourgenal
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Iso Jasmone Pure
27 Geraniol ex Palmarosa Oil 1,000
2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Muguet Aldehyde
2 Pepperwood

588

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 10a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Rhodiascent 3 Jasilyn
8 Musk Ambrette Subsitute 67 Iso Raldeine Substitute
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 3 Muguet Alcohol
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Nerol
45 Serenolide 4 Iris Beurre Oil ( Violet )
8 Vanillin 25 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Hysimal
9 Santalex T Neat 22 Linalol
48 Benzyl Acetate .5 Narcisse Abs. - L.M.R. ( IFF ) - Fr.
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
1 Beta Damascone 2 Neroli Oliffac
4 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 17 Geraniol 60
108 Muguet Base 8 Orange Blossom Base
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Geranyl Acetate
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 6 Cassis Fragrance
7 Methyl Benzoate .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 MDJ 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
4 Citronellol 850 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Haiti )
13 Lioral 2 Iridales
1 Nepalva 16 Wardia
8 Benzyl Acetate 1 Nootkatone 80/85 %
3 Endanol 38 Linalyl Acetate
25 Rose for Soap Base 1 Tangerinol
10 Methyl Ionone .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Rosilial
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Eugenol 1 Mugetanol
1 Geranium Givco 223 3 Bergamot Oil C.C.C. - Italy

1,000

589

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 10b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 3 Iso Jasmone

8 Etilen Brassilato ( Musk T ) 65 Ionone Alpha Refined
9 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Muguet Alcohol
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Nerol
45 Serenolide 4 Iris Beurre Oil ( Violet )
8 Vanillin 27 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Hysimal
9 Santalex T Neat 22 Linalol
48 Benzyl Acetate .5 Narcisse Abs. - L.M..R. ( IFF ) - Fr.
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
1 Beta Damascone 2 Neroli Oliffac
4 Hawthorn 17 Geraniol 60
108 Hydroxycitronellal 8 Orange Blossom Base
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Geranyl Acetate
2 Ethyl, Vanillin 6 Cassis Fragrance
7 Methyl Benzoate .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 MDJ 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
4 Citronellol 850 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
13 Lioral 2 Iridales
1 Nepalva 16 Wardia Substitute
8 Benzyl Acetate 1 Nootkatone 80/85 %
3 Endanol 38 Linalyl Acetate
25 Rose for Soap Base 1 Tangerinol
10 Ionone Alpha 60 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Rosilial
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Eugenol 1 Mugetanol
1 Geranium Rose Egypt 3 Bergamot Givco 72

1,000

590

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 10c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarin Crystals 3 Jasilyn

8 Traseolide 57 Iso Raldeine Substitute
9 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 3 Muguet Alcohol
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Nerol
45 Serenolide 4 Iris Beurre Oil ( Violet )
8 Vanillin 35 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Hysimal
9 Iso & Super 22 Linalol ex Bois de Rose Oil
48 Benzyl Acetate .5 Orris Abs. - L.M.R. ( IFF ) - Fr.
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Caraway Oil - Holland
1 Beta Damascone 2 Neroli Oliffac
4 Anis Aldehyde 17 Geraniol 60
108 Muguet Base 8 Orange Blossom Base
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Acetate de Geranyle
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 6 Cassis Fragrance
7 Methyl Benzoate .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 MDJ 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
4 Citronellol 850 5 Vetiver Acetate
13 Lioral 2 Iridales
1 Amber Core 16 Wardia
8 Cephionate 1 Grapefruit Oil ( Pink/White )
3 Endanol 38 Linalyl Acetate
25 Rose Base # 60 1 Mandarin Oil Red - Argentina
10 Ionone .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Rosilial
9 Phenylethylalcohol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Eugenol 1 Mugetanol
1 Geranium Oil Morocco 3 Bergamont Oil

1,000

591

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Ylang Ylang # 10d

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Coumarin 1 Iso Jasmone

8 ( Musk T ) 65 Ionone Alpha Refined
9 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Muguet Alcohol
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Nerol
45 Serenolide 4 Iris Beurre Oil ( Violet )
8 Vanilys 29 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Hysimal
9 Sandalwood Oliffac 22 Linalol
48 Benzyl Acetate .5 Iris Abs. - L.M.R. ( IFF ) - Fr.
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Suderal LT
1 Beta Damascone 2 Orange Oil Bitter ( W.I. )
4 Hawthorn 17 Geraniol 60
104 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 8 Orange Blossom Base
8 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Geranyl Acetate
2 Ethyl Vanillin 6 Cassis Fragrance
7 Methyl Benzoate .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 MDJ 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
4 Citronellol 850 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
13 Lioral 2 Irisone Bis
1 Nepalva 16 Wardia Substitute
9 Benzyl Acetate 1 Pamplemousse
3 Endanol 38 Linalyl Acetate
25 Rose for Soap Base 1 Vanilla Alcohol
10 Ionone Alpha 60 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Petilyn
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Eugenol 1 Muguet Aldehyde
1 Geranium Rose Bourbon 2 Clementine Oil

1,000

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 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - FLORAL ALDEHYDIC - Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang # 10e

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

44 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 3 Iso Rose

8 Etilen Brassilato ( Musk T ) 65 Ionone Intermediate Base
9 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Muguet Alcohol
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .4 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Nerol
45 Galaxolide Artessence 4 Iris Beurre Oil ( Violet )
8 Vanillin 27 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Lioral 2 Jasmone
9 Anthea Sandal Coeur 22 Linalol
48 Benzyl Acetate .5 Rose Abs. - L.M.R. ( IFF ) - Fr.
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde - alpha 1 Isoeugenol ( Dianthanol )
1 Delta Damascone 2 Neroli Oliffac
4 Hawthorn 17 Geraniol 60
108 Hydroxycitronellal 9 Orange Blossom Base
5 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 4 Geranyl Acetate
2 Ethyl, Vanillin 6 Cassifix
7 Methyl Benzoate .7 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 MDJ 3 Geranium Rose Egyptian
4 Citronellol 850 5 Vetiver Oil Indonesia ( Java )
13 Lioral 2 Iridales
1 Nepalva 16 Wardia Substitute
8 Benzyl Acetate 1 Nootkatone 80/85 %
3 Endanol 37 Linalyl Acetate
25 Rose for Soap Base 1 Tangerinol
10 Ionone Alpha 60 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
310 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Muguesia
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Neo - Galbanum Oil - Bedoukian
1 Geranium Rose Egypt 2 Bergamot Oil C.C.C. - Italy

1,000

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 Glen O. Brechbill

Bibliography

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History of Chanel Prussian War. Shortly after his An admirer of Coco Chanel,
arrival he purchased an interest in a Pierre Wertheimer wanted to help
HANEL, WORTH AN ESTIMATED French theatrical makeup company her succeed and, two years after
C $1.5 BILLION, is one of the called Bourjois. Bourjois success-
largest companies in the $4 billion fully introduced dry rouge to the
their introduction, he founded
Parfums Chanel to make and sell
global perfume industry. Chanel European market in the 1890s. her upscale perfume, named Chanel
started its success with the intro- No. 5. Pierre Wertheimer funded
duction of Chanel No. 5 perfume, The company grew rapidly, and the venture and retained a 70 per-
which continued to be a top selling by the early 1920s, Bourjois had cent ownership share in the compa-
perfume into the 1990s. begun making and distributing skin ny. Coco Chanel got a modest 10
creams from his Rochester, New percent of the company and Bader
Information, Business York, plant for cosmetic industry received 20 percent.
Description, History, giant Helena Rubenstien. By the
Background Information on 1920s, Bourjois had become the During the 1920s and 1930s
Chanel largest cosmetics and fragrance Parfums Chanel thrived. In addition
manufacturer in France. to selling the famous Chanel No. 5
The company has since diversi- perfume, the company eventually
fied its offerings beyond perfumes Though the Wertheimer family introduced other fragrances. In
to include designer clothes and would control the finances of 1929, Pierre Wertheimer intro-
accessories, which are sold in Chanel from its inception, the duced Soir de Paris, a fragrance
department stores and Chanel bou- impetus and creative vision for the aimed at the general public and
tiques around the world. The com- company came from Coco Chanel. marketed through the Bourjois
pany boasts a rich history rife with Theophile Bader, founder of the company. Meanwhile, Coco Chanel
intrigue, wealth, and scandal. successful French department store operated a successful fashion stu-
chain Galeries Lafayette, intro- dio near the Louvre museum in
By the 1990s, the Wertheimer duced Coco Chanel to Ernest Paris. Under an agreement with the
family of France had maintained Wertheimer's son, Pierre, in 1922. Wertheimers, she operated her
controlling interest in Chanel for Coco Chanel sought financial help design business as a separate com-
over 100 years. Chanel traces its from Pierre Wertheimer to market a pany, but sold the clothes under the
roots back to 1870, when Ernest fragrance she had developed in Chanel name. Although Parfums
Wertheimer moved from Alsace, 1921. Chanel and Coco Chanel's design
France, to Paris during the Franco- business flourished, the personal

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relationship between Coco Chanel use new occupation regulations to so, in 1947, he settled the dispute
and Pierre Wertheimer deteriorated. take control of the Parfums Chanel with Coco Chanel, giving her
partnership. But the savvy $400,000 and agreeing to pay her a
The friction between Coco Wertheimers stymied that move, two percent royalty on all Chanel
Chanel and the Wertheimer family too. In their absence, they found an products. He also gave her limited
stemmed from Coco Chanel's dis- Aryan proxy to run their businesses rights to sell her own perfumes
satisfaction with the terms of their and keep Coco Chanel at bay. from Switzerland.
original agreement. Coco Chanel
resented what she viewed as an During World War II, Coco Coco Chanel never made any
attempt by the Wertheimers to Chanel stayed in Paris, moving into more perfume after the agreement.
exploit her talents for their own the Hotel Ritz with her new para- She gave up the rights to her name
gain. She felt she should have a mour, Hans Gunther von in exchange for a monthly stipend
larger than ten percent portion of Dincklage, a member of the from the Wertheimers. The settle-
the company, and she argued that German information service. ment paid all of her monthly bills
she had unwittingly signed away According to one of Coco Chanel's and kept Coco Chanel and her for-
the rights to her own name. The biographers, Edmonde Charles- mer lover, von Dincklage, living in
Wertheimers countered her griev- Roux, she played a role in a secret relatively high style. It appeared as
ances with an argument that peace mission near the end of the though aging Coco Chanel would
reminded Coco Chanel that the War. Charles-Roux contends that drop out of the Chanel company
Wertheimers had funded her ven- German intelligence sent Coco saga.
ture in the first place, giving her the Chanel to visit Winston Churchill
chance to take her creations to mar- as part of a secret peace mission. At 70 years of age in 1954,
ket, and had made her a relatively Coco Chanel was arrested immedi- Coco Chanel returned to Paris with
wealthy woman. ately after the Liberation of France the intent of restarting her fashion
and charged with abetting the studio. She went to Pierre
In 1935 Chanel hired a Parisian Germans, but Churchill intervened Wertheimer for advice and money,
attorney, Rene de Chambrun, to on her behalf and she was released. and he agreed to finance her plan.
renegotiate her agreement with the In return for his help, Wertheimer
Wertheimers. But the Wertheimers After her release, Coco Chanel secured the rights to the Chanel
successfully quashed those immediately fled France for name for all products that bore it,
attempts. Furthermore, her fashion Switzerland. Meanwhile, Pierre not just perfumes. Once more,
business sputtered during the late Wertheimer returned to Paris to Wertheimer's decision paid off
1930s and at 56-years-of-age Coco resume control of his family's hold- from a business standpoint. Coco
Chanel closed it when the Nazis ings. Despite her absence, Coco Chanel's fashion lines succeeded in
invaded France. Coco Chanel Chanel continued her assault on her their own right and had the net
found a new way to fight the former admirer and began manu- effect of boosting the perfume's
Wertheimers during World War II. facturing her own line of perfumes. image.

In fact, the Wertheimers fled the
country in 1940, eventually landing
in the United States. With the pow-
erful Wertheimer family gone,
Coco Chanel went to work trying to
Feeling that Coco Chanel was
infringing on Parfums Chanel's
business, Pierre Wertheimer want-
ed to protect his legal rights, but
wished to a avoid a court battle, and
In the late 1950s Wertheimer
bought back the 20 percent of the
company owned by Bader. Thus,
when Coco Chanel died in 1971 at
the age of 87, the Wertheimers

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owned the entire Parfums Chanel new management involved animos- Importantly, Alain Wertheimer
operation, including all rights to the ity and family feuds, Chanel man- refused to relinquish control of any-
Chanel name. agement maintained that control thing related to the family's Chanel
was ceded in a friendly and peace- operations. In fact, Chanel remains
Pierre Wertheimer died six able manner. one of few companies in the cos-
years before Coco Chanel passed metic and apparel industry that
away, putting an end to an intrigu- Chanel No. 5 was still a global per- does not license its fragrances, cos-
ing and curious relationship of fume industry leader when Alain metics, or apparel to other produc-
which Parfums Chanel was just Wertheimer took the helm. But, ers or distributors.
one, albeit pivotal, dynamic. Coco with only four percent of the piv-
Chanel's attorney, Rene de otal $875 million U.S. market, its Part of Chanel's success during
Chambrun, described the relation- dominance was fading. After years the 1980s (and throughout the
ship as one based on a business- of mismanagement, Chanel had 1900s for that matter) was its
man's passion for a woman who felt become viewed by many adherence to a conservative, proven
exploited by him. "Pierre returned Americans as a second-rate fra- image. Chanel designers and mar-
to Paris full of pride and excitement grance that appealed to out-of-style keters were extremely careful to not
[after one of his horses won the women. Alain Wertheimer suc- tamper with the Chanel legend.
1956 English Derby]," Chambrun ceeded in turning Chanel around in While other perfumes had changed
recalled in Forbes. "He rushed to the United States. He removed the to follow short term trends, the
Coco, expecting congratulations perfume from drug store shelves in Chanel fragrance remained classic
and praise. But she refused to kiss an effort to create a greater sense of and unchanged. Even the Chanel
him. She resented him, you see, all scarcity and exclusivity. As the No. 5 bottle, with its traditional
her life." number of U.S. outlets carrying black-and-white label and simple
Chanel No. 5 plummeted from lines, was considered a work of art
Pierre Wertheimer's son, 18,000 to 12,000, Alain by the company. "We introduce a
Jacques, took control of the Chanel Wertheimer pumped millions into new fragrance every 10 years, not
operation in 1965. The 55-year-old advertising Chanel's fragrances and every three minutes like many com-
Jacques was perhaps best known cosmetics. His efforts increased petitors," explained Chanel mar-
for his managment of the family's profits. keter Jean Hoehn Zimmerman in
racing stables and horse breeding Marketing News. "We don't con-
operations; Pierre Wertheimer had In 1980, Alain Wertheimer fuse the consumer. With Chanel,
established one of the finest racing stepped up efforts in Chanel's U.S. people know what to expect. And
stables in the world in 1910, and fashion operations. Attempts to they keep coming back to us, at all
Jacques became a renowned horse parlay the Chanel fashion division ages, as they enter and leave the
breeder. According to some critics, into a profit center and promotional market."
however, he did not direct as much device for Chanel's fragrances suc-
attention on the operation of ceeded. Chanel opened up more As a result of Alain Werthe-
Chanel. than 40 Chanel boutiques world- imer's efforts during the 1980s and
wide. By the late 1980s those shops early 1990s, the Chanel's perform-
In 1974, Jacques's 25-year-old sold everything from $200-per- ance improved significantly. Going
son Alain Wertheimer gained con- ounce perfume and $225 ballerina into the 1990s, in fact, Chanel was
trol of the company. While the slippers to $11,000 dresses and considered a global leader in the
press suggested that the move to $2,000 leather handbags. fragrance industry and a top inno-

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vator in fragrance advertising and
marketing. Chanel continued to
spend more on advertising than
almost any other perfume company
and, as a result, was reaping the fat-
test profit margins in the industry.
In addition, the company had con-
tinued to expand into new product
lines, including Chanel watches
retailing for as much as $7,000;
additions to its popular shoe line;
and other high-priced clothes, cos-
metics, and accessories.
The Wertheimers would have
been wealthy without their Chanel
business. However, Chanel's suc-
cess in the 1980s was credited with
boosting the Wertheimer family's
wealth to a new level. Alain
Wertheimer moved his offices to
New York in the late 1980s, reflect-
ing Chanel's emphasis on the U.S.
market. Although sales of high-end
goods were hurt by the global
recession of the early 1990s,
demand began recovering in the
mid 1990s and Chanel continued to
expand its boutique chain and prod-
uct line.
Additional Details
Private Company
Founded: 1924 as Parfums Chanel
Employees: 912
Sales: $450 million
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SICs: 2844 Toilet Preparations
Further Reference
Berkowitz, Harry, "Not Everyone
Shared Caged Fantasy:
Does New Chanel Ad Evoke
Freedom or the Same Old
Constraining Attitudes?"
Newsday, August 30, 1992, sec. 1,
p. 72.Berman, Phyllis, and Zina
Sawaya,
"The Billionaires behind Chanel,"
Forbes, April 3, 1989, p.
104.Hunter, Catherine E.,
"Scientist, Inventor, Futurist," Drug
& Cosmetic Industry, May 1993, p.
20.Johnson, Rebecca,
"Scent of a Woman," ADWEEK
Eastern Edition, November 29,
1993, p. 30.Kamen, Robin,
"Exec Suiting Up for Growth:
Chanel to Open New Boutiques,
Cater to Buyers," Crains New York
Business, August 15, 1994, sec. 1,
p. 13.Oliver, Joyce Ann,
"She Innovates without Destroying
a Legend," Marketing News,
December 10, 1990, p. 10.
Swisher, Kara, "Chanel Bucks the
Trend Toward Tysons Corner,"
Washington Post, May 7, 1990, sec.
E, p. 31.
Search Company History
600
She was shrewd, chic and on the
cutting edge. The clothes she creat-
ed changed the way women looked
and how they looked at themselves
Coco Chanel wasn't just ahead of
her time. She was ahead of herself.
If one looks at the work of contem-
porary fashion designers as differ-
ent from one another as Tom Ford,
Helmut Lang, Miuccia Prada, Jil
Sander and Donatella Versace, one
sees that many of their strategies
echo what Chanel once did. The
way, 75 years ago, she mixed up
the vocabulary of male and female
clothes and created fashion that
offered the wearer a feeling of hid-
den luxury rather than ostentation
are just two examples of how her
taste and sense of style overlap
with today's fashion.
Chanel would not have defined
herself as a feminist in fact, she
consistently spoke of femininity
rather than of feminism yet her
work is unquestionably part of the
liberation of women. She threw out
a life jacket, as it were, to women
not once but twice, during two dis-
tinct periods decades apart: the
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1920s and the '50s. She not only become part of what she once
appropriated styles, fabrics and rebelled against and hated the
articles of clothing that were worn Establishment. But if one looks at
by men but also, beginning with documentary footage of her from
how she dressed herself, appropri- that period, one can still feel the
ated sports clothes as part of the spit and vinegar of the fiery peasant
language of fashion. One can see woman who began her fashion rev-
how her style evolved out of neces- olution against society by aiming at
sity and defiance. She couldn't the head, with hats. Her boyish
afford the fashionable clothes of "flapper" creations were in stark
the period so she rejected them and contrast to the Belle Epoque
made her own, using, say, the millinery that was in vogue at the
sports jackets and ties that were time, and about which she asked,
everyday male attire around the "How can a brain function under
racetrack, where she was climbing those things?" Something that
her first social ladders. Chanel can never be accused of is
not using her brain. Her sharp mind
It's not by accident that she became is apparent in everything she did,
associated with the modern move- from her savvy use of logos to her
ment that included Diaghilev, deep understanding of the power of
Picasso, Stravinsky and Cocteau. personality and packaging, even the
Like these artistic protagonists, she importance of being copied. And
was determined to break the old she was always quotable: "Fashion
formulas and invent a way of is not simply a matter of clothes.
expressing herself. Cocteau once Fashion is in the air, born upon the
said of her that "she has, by a kind wind. One intuits it. It is in the sky
of miracle, worked in fashion and on the road."
according to rules that would seem
to have value only for painters, It is fitting, somehow, that Chanel
musicians, poets." was often photographed holding a
cigarette or standing in front of her
By the late '60s, Chanel had famous Art Deco wall of mirrors.
601
Fashion tends to involve a good
dose of smoke and mirrors, so it
should come as no surprise that
Gabrielle Chanel's version of her
life involved a multitude of lies,
inventions, cover-ups and revi-
sions. But as Prada said to me: "She
was really a genius. It's hard to pin
down exactly why, but it has some-
thing to do with her wanting to be
different and wanting to be inde-
pendent."
Certainly her life was unpre-
dictable. Even her death in 1971, at
the age of 87 in her private quarters
at the Ritz Hotel was a plush ending
that probably would not have been
predicted for Chanel by the nuns in
the Aubazine orphanage, where she
spent time as a ward of the state
after her mother died and her father
ran off. No doubt the sisters at the
convent in Moulins, who took her
in when she was 17, raised their
eyebrows when the young woman
left the seamstress job they had
helped her get to try for a career as
a cabaret singer. This stint as a per-
former she was apparently charm-
ing but no Piaf led her to take up
with the local swells and become
the backup mistress of Etienne
Balsan, a playboy who would
finance her move to Paris and the
opening of her first hat business.
That arrangement gave way to a
bigger and better deal when she
moved on to his friend, Arthur
("Boy") Capel, who is said to have
been the love of her life and who
backed her expansion from hats to
clothes and from Paris to the
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coastal resorts of Deauville and
Biarritz. One of her first successes
was the loose-fitting sweater, which
she belted and teamed with a skirt.
These early victories were similar
to the clothes she had been making
for herself women's clothes made
out of Everyman materials such as
jersey, usually associated with
men's undergarments.
Throughout the '20s, Chanel's
social, sexual and professional
progress continued, and her emi-
nence grew to the status of legend.
By the early '30s she'd been courted
by Hollywood, gone and come
back. She had almost married one
of the richest men in Europe, the
Duke of Westminster; when she
didn't, her explanation was, "There
have been several Duchesses of
Westminster. There is only one
Chanel." In fact, there were many
Coco Chanels, just as her work had
many phases and many styles,
including Gypsy skirts, over-the-
top fake jewelry and glittering
evening wear made of crystal and
jet beads laid over black and white
georgette crepe not just the plainer
jersey suits and "little black dress-
es" that made her famous. But
probably the single element that
most ensured Chanel's being
remembered, even when it would
have been easier to write her off, is
not a piece of clothing but a form of
liquid gold Chanel No. 5, in its Art
Deco bottle, which was launched in
1923. It was the first perfume to
bear a designer's name.
602
One could say perfume helped keep
Chanel's name pretty throughout
the period when her reputation got
ugly: World War II. This is when
her anti-Semitism, homophobia
(even though she herself dabbled in
bisexuality) and other base inclina-
tions emerged. She responded to
the war by shutting down her fash-
ion business and hooking up with
Hans Gunther von Dincklage, a
Nazi officer whose favors included
permission to reside in her beloved
Ritz Hotel. Years later, in 1954,
when she decided to make a come-
back, her name still had "dis-
graced" attached to it.
Depending on the source, Chanel's
return to the fashion world has been
variously attributed to falling per-
fume sales, disgust at what she was
seeing in the fashion of the day or
simple boredom. All these explana-
tions seem plausible, and so does
Karl Lagerfeld's theory of why, this
time around, the Chanel suit met
such phenomenal success.
Lagerfeld who designs Chanel
today and who has turned the com-
pany into an even bigger, more
tuned-in business than it was before
points out, "By the '50s she had the
benefit of distance, and so could
truly distill the Chanel look. Time
and culture had caught up with
her." In Europe, her return to fash-
ion was deemed an utter flop at
first, but Americans couldn't buy
her suits fast enough. Yet again
Chanel had put herself into the yolk
of the zeitgeist. By the time
Katharine Hepburn played her on
Broadway in 1969, Chanel had
achieved first-name recognition
and was simply Coco.

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Fashion designer. Born on August
19, 1883, in Saumur, France. With
her trademark suits and little black
dresses, Coco Chanel created time-
less designs that are still popular
today. She herself became a much
revered style icon known for her
simple yet sophisticated outfits
paired with great accessories, such
as several strands of pearls. As
Chanel once said,“luxury must be
comfortable, otherwise it is not
luxury.”
Her early years, however, were
anything but glamorous. After her
mother’s death, Chanel was put in
an orphanage by her father who
worked as a peddler. She was
raised by nuns who taught her how
to sew a skill that would lead to her
life’s work. Her nickname came
from another occupation entirely.
During her brief career as a singer,
Chanel performed in clubs in Vichy
and Moulins where she was called
“Coco.” Some say that the name
comes from one of the songs she
used to sing, and Chanel herself
said that it was a “shortened ver-
sion of cocotte, the French word
for ‘kept woman,” according to an
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article in The Atlantic. unseen, unforgettable, ultimate
accessory of fashion that heralds
Around the age of 20, Chanel your arrival and prolongs your
became involved with Etienne departure,” Chanel once explained.
Balsan who offered to help her start
a millinery business in Paris. She In 1925, she introduced the now
soon left him for one of his even legendary Chanel suit with collar-
wealthier friends, Arthur “Boy” less jacket and well-fitted skirt. Her
Capel. Both men were instrumental designs were revolutionary for the
in Chanel’s first fashion venture. time borrowing elements of men’s
wear and emphasizing comfort over
Opening her first shop on Paris’s the constraints of then-popular
Rue Cambon in 1910, Chanel start- fashions. She helped women say
ed out selling hats. She later added good-bye to the days of corsets and
stores in Deauville and Biarritz and other confining garments.
began making clothes. Her first
taste of clothing success came from Another 1920s revolutionary
a dress she fashioned out of an old design was Chanel’s little black
jersey on a chilly day. In response dress. She took a color once associ-
to the many people who asked ated with mourning and showed
about where she got the dress, she just how chic it could be for
offered to make one for them. “My eveningwear. In addition to fash-
fortune is built on that old jersey ion, Chanel was a popular figure in
that I’d put on because it was cold the Paris literary and artistic
in Deauville,” she once told author worlds. She designed costumes for
Paul Morand. the Ballets Russes and for Jean
Cocteau’s play Orphée, and count-
In the 1920s, Chanel took her thriv- ed Cocteau and artist Pablo Picasso
ing business to new heights. She among her friends. For a time,
launched her first perfume, Chanel Chanel had a relationship with
No. 5, which was the first to feature composer Igor Stravinsky.
a designer’s name. Perfume “is the
604
Another important romance for umphant return to the fashion In addition to the longevity of her
Chanel began in the 1920s. She met world. She first received scathing designs, Chanel’s life story contin-
the wealthy duke of Westminster reviews from critics, but her femi-ues to captivate people’s attention.
aboard his yacht around 1923, and nine and easy-fitting designs soon There have been several biogra-
the two started a decades-long rela- won over shoppers around the phies of the fashion revolutionary,
tionship. In response to his mar- world. including Chanel and Her World
riage proposal, she reportedly said (2005) written by her friend
“There have been several In 1969, Chanel’s fascinating life Edmonde Charles-Roux.
Duchesses of Westminster but there story became the basis for the
is only one Chanel!” Broadway musical Coco starring In the recent television biopic,
Katharine Hepburn as the leg- Coco Chanel (2008), Shirley
The international economic depres- endary designer. Alan Jay Lerner MacLaine starred as the famous
sion of the 1930s had a negative wrote the book and lyrics for the designer around the time of her
impact on her company, but it was show’s song while Andre Prévin 1954 career resurrection. The
the outbreak of World War II that composed the music. Cecil Beaton actress said that she had long been
led Chanel to close her business. handled the set and costume design interested in playing Chanel.
She fired her workers and shut for the production. The show “What’s wonderful about her is
down her shops. During the received seven Tony Award nomi- she’s not a straightforward, easy
German occupation of France, nations, and Beaton won for Best woman to understand.”
Chanel got involved with a German Costume Design and René
military officer, Hans Gunther von Auberjonois for Best Featured
Dincklage. She got special permis- Actor.
sion to stay in her apartment at the
Hotel Ritz. After the war ended, Coco Chanel died on January 10,
Chanel was interrogated by her 1971, at her apartment in the Hotel
relationship with von Dincklage, Ritz. She never married, having
but she was not charged as a col- once said “I never wanted to weigh
laborator. Some have wondered more heavily on a man than a bird.”
whether friend Winston Churchill Hundreds crowded together at the
worked behind the scenes on Church of the Madeleine to bid
Chanel’s behalf. farewell to the fashion icon. In trib-
ute, many of the mourners wore
While not officially charged, Chanel suits.
Chanel suffered in the court of pub-
lic opinion. Some still viewed her A little more than a decade after her
relationship with a Nazi officer as a death, designer Karl Lagerfeld took
betrayal of her country. Chanel left the reins at her company to contin-
Paris, spending some years in ue the Chanel legacy. Today her
Switzerland in a sort of exile. She namesake company continues to
also lived at her country house in thrive and is believed to generate
Roquebrune for a time. hundreds of millions in sales each
year.
At the age of 70, Chanel made a tri-

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 COCO CHANEL, NO 5 against extravagance, we have no mark a revolution, because it intro-
F OR
THE SMELL OF A WOMAN;
WAS
for
Julie Burchill, it is the smell of rich
real language to appreciate per-
fume as perfume. It is far easier to
duced modern conceptions of man-
ufacture and marketing. But even
mothers. For Nicholas Blincoe, treat it as a commodity - even as a this would be an exaggeration.
perfume is the condition to which con trick pulled on the consumer. Chanel No 5 might have used syn-
all art aspires There was a kind of glee behind thetic aromas more liberally than
recent reports that the laboratories previous perfumes, but Jacques
The British do use perfume, but hired to create synthetic beef- Guerlain had used an aldehyde two
only occasionally, and then in mod- flavoured sprays for McDonald's years earlier in his scent Mitsouko;
eration. When my grandmother fries also manufacture perfumes for and his uncle Aime Guerlain had
died, I discovered a litre bottle of American fashion houses. And it is enthusiastically embraced other
Chanel No 5, bought in Paris in the often remarked that the role of the synthetics a generation before - in
1930s and left unopened in her cel- couture catwalk show is to sell not Jicky, for instance, created in 1889.
lar. She had no use for such a large clothes but perfume, as though the
bottle, and so, for 60 years, the per- symbiosis between fashion and Rather, if Chanel No 5 exempli-
fume was left to evaporate through perfume is illegitimate, and that fies anything, it is continuity.
the stopper. This British puritanical selling perfume is somehow Although the perfume was selected
streak runs deep. Although we shameful. by Coco Chanel (and named after
have a suspicion of high-flown the- her lucky number), it was created
ory, the best British art, design andIn fact, fashion houses began to by Ernest Beaux, a Russian per-
architecture lies broadly within the
develop their own perfumes rela- fumer who had learnt his art work-
modernist mainstream, because tively recently. The first to carry ing for the House of Rallet before
modernism champions puritanical the name of a couturier was Chanel moving to Coty in Grasse during
virtues such as boldness, clarityNo 5, in 1921. Chanel No 5 also the revolution. Jacques Polges, just
and simplicity - virtues we already
has the distinction of being the first the second director of perfume at
possess. We find it much harder to
fragrance to use synthetic aromas Chanel since Beaux's death, recent-
appreciate eroticism, sensuality in high concentrations, of a kind ly said: "Though his world and ours
and luxury, the extravagant quali-
known as aldehydes, which ampli- are totally different, there are still
ties that perfumers bring to their
fy other scents by giving them a lift things that are the same, most par-
art. and sparkle. If there is something ticularly the artistry. We must help
essentially unmodern about per- people to feel and appreciate this
Perhaps because of this bias fume, Chanel No 5 could be seen to dimension."

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 Conservative art and literary
critics often posit the idea of an
apostolic tradition, exemplified by
a canon. This tradition actually
exists among perfumers. The
House of Guerlain, for example,
was founded in the early 19th cen-
tury by Pierre-Francois-Pascal
Guerlain, and a descendant, Patricia
de Nicolai, now has her own suc-
cessful house in London. The
House of Creed is even more sta-
ble. Founded in London in 1760, it
relocated to Paris in the 1850s, and
remains family-owned today. One
can as easily wear Fleurs de
Bulgarie, created by Henry Creed
in 1845, as Neroli Sauvage, created
by Olivier Creed in 1994.
It is remarkable that so many
classic perfumes still exist. All the
perfumes named above are easily
available: in what other field is it
possible to use the exact same
product as Queen Victoria (Fleurs
de Bulgarie), Colette (Jicky),
Diaghilev (Mitsouko), Marilyn
Monroe (Chanel No 5) or me
(Neroli Sauvage)? And with these
perfumes, you are not buying a
reproduction or an approximation.
It really is the same perfume.
The perfumer's tradition is
long. New techniques such as gas
chromatography, which is used to
analyse "headspace" (the air around
a living flower), are used alongside
distillation processes that have not
changed since the Arabs developed
them. Some ingredients, too, are as
old as civilisation. Frankincense is
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a balsam (or gum resin), myrrh an
extract of a root, and while the
young Christ may have appreciated
them, neither is close to being the
most valuable perfume ingredient.
Balsam of Mecca, for instance, is
worth twice its weight in silver
because (rather confusingly) it
grows only in Syria on two planta-
tions, one of four acres, the other
considerably smaller.
The mostly excellent perfume
writer Susan Irvine recommends
that, with perfume, "less is sexier".
She is wrong. It takes much more
perfume to create an effective
vapour trail, or "sillage", than one
might imagine. And it needs to be
renewed frequently. The rule, in
perfume as in other things, ought to
be bling-bling. The ostentatious
display of luxury and sensuality
was beyond my grandmother's gen-
eration, but we ought not be so eas-
ily discouraged.
It is odd that perfume is treated
with suspicion even by those who
regard themselves as aesthetes or
connoisseurs in other fields. It may
be that the language of modernity
precludes a language that could
appreciate fragrance. The key prob-
lem of modernity was representa-
tion. The solution was to produce
works that did not depend upon
their relation to other things, but
created a sense of their own integri-
ty and necessity. Perfumers have
never faced this problem, because
perfume does not refer to anything:
it is only a smell and nothing else.
607
In a phrase that existentialist
philosophers used, perfume is the
thing-in-itself.
A perfume is always a coup de
foudre, a surprise. It is immediately
sensual, a synthetic and created ele-
ment that acts directly on the sens-
es in a material way. One could
argue that all art aspires to the con-
dition of perfume - aside from mag-
ical realism, which aspires to the
condition of the perfume advert.
All the great perfumes have stories
attached to them. This is not coinci-
dence; perfume is the engine oil of
our imaginations. Our libidinous
bodies react to perfume by produc-
ing ideas, fancies and stories.
Those writers most interested in
perfume always present themselves
as slaves to their sensuality, and so
helpless before perfumes. All are
writers with links to the decadent
movement - for instance, Oscar
Wilde, who wrote in The Picture of
Dorian Gray that musk "troubled
the brain" and violets "woke the
memory of dead romances"; or J K
Huysmans, who describes an orgy
of aromatherapy in Against Nature
using perfume-spraying machines
that pummel the senses. Proust pre-
sented himself as wholly enslaved
to involuntary memories and wrote
that perfume is "that last and best
reserve of the past, the one which
when all our tears have run dry, can
make us cry again". Yet, beyond
this enslavement to the material and
sensual, each of these writers posits
a new kind of freedom. Perfume
stokes the imagination, but the
ideas created transcend their
source, and the novels they produce
are the proof of this.

In perfume, we can find the

philosopher's holy grail, a sinuous
link between materialism and free
will. It creates romance, but the
contours of that romance are left to
the imagination. For Coco, Chanel
No 5 was the smell of a woman; for
Julie Burchill, it is the smell of rich
mothers; for Susan Irvine, it is the
smell of fur and hand-embroidered
knickers. But for Ernest Beaux, its
creator, Chanel No 5 was the snowy
landscape of his birth which recalls,
for me, the words of Mikhail
Bakunin: "Even in Russia, that vast
and snow-covered kingdom, a
storm is brewing."

Nicholas Blincoe is the co-editor of

All Hail the New Puritans (Fourth
Estate, £6.99)

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C HANEL
FAMOUS
MAY BE THE MOST
FRENCH BRAND IN THE
WORLD. Coco Chanel, its founder,
is one of France's most recogniza-
ble icons its perfume, No. 5, the
world's best-selling scent ever. And
Karl Lagerfeld, its designer of 19
years, is perhaps the most quoted
personality in the fashion business.
Yet nothing nothing is known
about the company's owners, the
Wertheimers, who have held the
majority stake in Les Parfums
Chanel since its incorporation in
1924. ''We're a very discreet family,
we never talk,'' Gérard Wertheimer,
one of the two brothers who run the
business, whispered to me before
the Chanel couture show in Paris
last year. ''It's about Coco Chanel.
It's about Karl. It's about everyone
who works and creates at Chanel.
It's not about the Wertheimers.''
Which is why in the current
business environment, where the
feuds, firings and fickleness of the
fashion impresarios get as much
press as the designers do the
biggest story in fashion is still the
fact that the Wertheimers never
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give theirs away.
For instance, they never reveal
''I spoke to the Wine Spectator
because that's PR, that's how you
sell wine. I will gladly speak to
sales figures for any of their com- you, about the wine and the horses,
panies, which are all privately because we sell the brand value.
owned. (Women's Wear Daily esti- Horses are the brand value of
mates that Chanel does over $2 bil- 'Wertheimer Frères.' But I don't
lion in fragrance and fashion sales give interviews on Chanel because
annually.) When Alain, the chair- it is not useful for the Chanel busi-
man of the board of Chanel, and his ness.''
brother Gérard, the chairman of
Chanel S.A. Geneva, the compa- Dozens of others did speak to
ny's European branch, attend The Times about this reclusive
Chanel shows, they drive them- family, and this is probably one of
selves there in a modest French- the first glimpses of their lifestyle.
made hatchback, slip into the hall For example, the Wertheimers have
unnoticed and sit in the third or an impressive art collection
fourth row. They rarely, if ever, Picasso, Matisse, Rousseau and
attend Chanel boutique openings or many fine Asian pieces that graces
other Chanel events, they never their eight homes as well as the
lend their names to advertising, and company's executive offices on
they eschew licensing the company 57th Street, yet they never allow
name for bedsheets and aerosols. any of the works to be loaned or
''You can make money that way,'' photographed. Alain, slim, beard-
Alain told Wine Spectator some ed, the more cynical of the two
years ago in one of his rare inter- brothers, lives with his wife,
views. ''But that's not the way to Brigitte, and their three children in
run a family business.'' a grand apartment on Fifth Avenue,
has a country home in Connecticut
The Wertheimers refused a for- and is steeped in money Forbes
mal interview with The Times for estimates the family's combined
this article, although Alain did say: wealth to be $5 billion but he does-
609
n't hesitate to use his Metrocard to instead is live like Old World aris- Bourjois Cosmetics, from his
get around Manhattan. Similarly, he tocrats that is, in quiet luxury. Their father, Jacques, the portfolio has
and Brigitte shun the charity ball friends are a small, tight-lipped cir- grown to include the gun makers
and Park Avenue dinner circuit. As cle of Rothschilds, Wildensteins, Holland & Holland; Frédéric
Nan Kempner, the New York Gutfreunds and Bichs (of Bic-ball- Fekkai beauty salons; Erès, maker
socialite, puts it, ''I've known them point-pen wealth). Their passions of bathing suits and lingerie; G & F
for years to say, 'How do you do,' are shooting (years back, doves in Chatelain, the watchmakers; and
but I've never been in their house, Mexico; these days, game at their until three years ago, the Isaac
and they have never been to mine.'' chateau in the Loire Valley), horse Mizrahi Company. ''We're in the
racing (their stables are among the business of selling pleasure,'' Alain
Gérard, short, slightly round greatest in the world), fine wines explained to Wine Spectator. ''We
and more affable, lives a similarly (two more chateaus, in Bordeaux), don't sell handbags or haute cou-
private life with his wife, Valérie, art collecting and skiing at their ture. We sell dreams.''
and their two teenagers in an chalet in the Swiss Alps.
antique- and art-filled manse with a The Wertheimers' obsession
formal French garden in the exclu- When in New York, the with secrecy is in part cultural: the
sive Vandoeuvres section of Wertheimers lunch most every day French believe there is no reason to
Geneva. ''They are very secluded,'' in their corporate dining room, reveal one's private life in the pur-
says one high-standing Geneva enjoying a light menu ''soup in the suit of business goals. But their
businessman, who, like others of winter, seafood in the summer,'' silence is also a professional ploy.
his social standing, refuses to speak Alain once said often accompanied Unlike other limelight-seeking lux-
for attribution. ''You don't see them by a bottle of Rausan-Ségla, their ury titans like Bernard Arnault, the
in restaurants, they aren't part of the deuxieme cru Bordeaux, in a crys- owner of LVMH Moët Hennessy
fake Geneva crowd. tal decanter. They prefer to enter- Louis Vuitton, and Domenico De
tain at home, dinners of 12 or so Sole, the chief executive of Gucci
''Valérie,'' he adds, ''is the anti- ''with all the footmen and other Group, the Wertheimers prefer to
Nan Kempner.'' Continental accoutrements,''one remain anonymous and let their
invitee recalls. When they do give brands be the stars. It is an odd way
When the Wertheimers are in to charities, it is to those that per- of doing business in an industry
Paris, they rarely step out. They are sonally interest them, like the that has increasingly turned its
great enthusiasts of classical music Game Conservancy Trust in Britain business barons into celebrities.
''and they do quite often go to the or Action Innocence (against child But this seems to suit them fine,
Théâtre du Châtelet because I bump pornography on the Internet) and an and it has been the way they have
into them,'' says Emmanuel de orphanage in Santo Domingo, two conducted their businesses since
Brantes, former social editor of projects run by Gérard's wife, their grandfather Pierre first negoti-
French Vogue. ''I do see them every Valérie, a former nurse. ated a contract with Coco Chanel in
year at the Arc de Triomphe horse 1924.
race at Longchamp. But they don't And they work Alain in New
feel compelled to go out, even for York, Gérard in Geneva quietly and The Wertheimers, whose roots
Chanel-related things. It's quite diligently managing the family date to medieval Germany, arrived
strange.'' empire. In the 28 years since Alain in Paris when Pierre's father,
took over the helm of Chanel and Ernest, left Alsace during the
What the Wertheimers do the family's original holding, Franco-Prussian war. In the 1870's,

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Ernest invested in Bourjois, a the-
atrical makeup company, which by
the 1920's his sons, Pierre and Paul,
had turned into the biggest cosmet-
ics and fragrance business in
France.
Pierre was also an avid horse-
man who began one of the world's
great racing dynasties. The
Wertheimers' first winner was in
1911; their first champion was
Epinard, in the early 20's. Pierre's
greatest success came in 1956,
when his horse Lavandin won the
Epsom Derby. Today, Gérard over-
sees the family's horse stock, which
in 1995 included 120 horses in
Chantilly, a few in California and
70 broodmares divided between
Kentucky and the Haras de Saint-
Léonard-La-Barbérie, their stud
farm in Normandy, with Kentucky-
style barns and a small chateau
moved brick by brick from l'Orne.
The horses are an important
part of the Wertheimer story
because it was at the races that
Pierre met Coco Chanel. Born in a
poorhouse and raised in an orphan-
age, Chanel was a courtesan and
the milliner for the mondaine, with
shops in Paris, Deauville and
Biarritz. In 1922, she and Ernest
Beaux, a perfumer from Grasse,
created the scent known as No. 5,
said to be named for Chanel's lucky
number. The perfume was an
instant hit with Chanel's customers,
but it was made in limited amounts
in Beaux's laboratories. Théophile
Bader, the founder of the depart-
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ment store Galeries Lafayette, the Wertheimers, Chanel attempted
wanted to sell No. 5, so he intro- to declare the company abandoned.
duced Chanel to his friend Pierre
Wertheimer at the Longchamp But the Wertheimers were wili-
racetrack outside Paris. er: they bought almost 50 percent
of an airplane propeller company
In 1924, the trio negotiated a run by a French engineer (and an
deal that incorporated Les Parfums Aryan) named Félix Amiot. When
Chanel. Wertheimer would make Chanel betrayed them, the
No. 5 in his Bourjois factory and Wertheimers signed Les Parfums
receive 70 percent of the profits. Chanel over to Amiot, a collabora-
Bader earned 20 percent as a find- tor who sold arms to the Nazis.
er's fee. And Chanel herself
received a mere 10 percent. Feeling It worked: the Germans left Les
she had been cheated, Chanel filed Parfums Chanel alone. When the
lawsuit after lawsuit, trying to get war was over, Amiot gave the com-
more control and more of the prof- pany back to the Wertheimers;
its. By 1928, according to Axel helping them ''saved his little neck''
Madsen in the biography ''Chanel: from the revenge-seeking Allies,
A Woman of Her Own,'' the Alain Wertheimer told Forbes.
Wertheimers had a lawyer on their Thomas was later named president
staff who dealt solely with Chanel. of Chanel in the United States, a
post he held for 32 years.
When the Nazis arrived in Paris
in 1940, Pierre and his brother, Chanel, meanwhile, was arrest-
Paul, fled to New York. They sent ed by French Resistance forces.
an American emissary, H. Gregory She was released the next day,
Thomas, back to France with a mis- allegedly thanks to the help of
sion: to get the formula for No. 5 Churchill, a friend of Chanel's ex-
and the main ingredients (essential beau, the Duke of Westminster. She
oils of jasmine and tuberose) from fled to Switzerland, where she con-
Grasse. Thomas also helped tinued to menace the Wertheimers,
Pierre's son Jacques escape to New her wartime plot having failed. She
York. threatened to produce her own ver-
sion of No. 5 Mademoiselle Chanel
Chanel, then in her 50's, closed No. 5 and two other new scents,
her fashion business but continued and filed a suit in France that
to live across the street at the Hotel charged that Les Parfums Chanel
Ritz, a Nazi headquarters. She soon made an inferior product and
began a romance with a young Nazi demanded that ownership and
officer named Hans Gunther von rights be returned to her. Instead,
Dincklage. Believing she could the family renegotiated a deal:
wrest control of her company from rather than 10 percent of all French
611
sales of No. 5, Chanel would have 2 President Kennedy's flag-covered Chandon before taking over Chanel
percent of world sales, and the right casket on Air Force One in a blood- but he saw quickly what needed to
to produce her own scents (without splattered pink Chanel suit. But as be done. He began by reining in
the numeral 5). She never did. popular as the little Chanel suit was distribution, pulling Chanel No. 5
then, the company's fashions and off drugstore shelves. He started
In 1953, as No. 5 sales began to finances remained static. the Chanel Beauté cosmetics line,
lag, Pierre Wertheimer paid a visit which he made sure was sold only
to the then-70-year-old Chanel at The reason was probably in high-end stores. In 1978, Chanel
the Beau Rivage hotel in Lausanne. Jacques, Pierre's 55-year-old son, introduced its first mass-produced
Within a few days, she was back on who took over when Pierre died in ready-to-wear line, designed by
the rue Cambon in Paris, planning 1963. Jacques, by all accounts, was Philippe Guibourgé. Then in 1980,
her relaunch of Chanel couture. But a kind and sad man who was not Alain hired an advertising execu-
when her first collection was terribly interested in the business. tive, Kitty D'Alessio, to run the
roundly dismissed (''A Fiasco!'' one He preferred to spend much of his American branch of the company.
British paper said), she met with adult life tending to the family's
Wertheimer again. racehorses in Chantilly. He and his D'Alessio had handled Chanel's
French-born wife, Eliane, divorced ad campaigns for years, and under-
''You know, I want to go on, go in New York in the 1950's, and he stood what the company needed to
on and win,'' she told him, accord- lived alone on the Avenue Foch in a reposition itself in the rapidly
ing to Madsen. splendid, sprawling flat filled with changing fashion world: a new
Egyptian sculpture and his impres- designer. She zeroed in on Karl
''You're right,'' he said. ''You're sive collection of abstract paint- Lagerfeld, then the designer for
right to go on.'' ings. ''I don't think he did a great Chloe. ''I had been following his
deal,'' one old friend admitted. career for a long time and thought
Pierre then negotiated his final Coco Chanel referred to him as ''the he was brilliant and had a great
deal with Chanel: the family would kid.'' sense of modernity,'' D'Alessio told
pay for the fashion house's rue me. What clinched it, though, is
Cambon headquarters, her personal Chanel died in her room at the that in ''all the previous work he had
expenses and her taxes for the rest Ritz in January 1971, at age 83. been doing, he had never copied
of her life in return for control of Jacques, himself an old man by Chanel or had a Chanel influence,
her name for perfume and fashion. then, slowly became mentally inca- and that attracted me at once,''
As Chanel had no heirs, upon her pable. By 1974, the company had D'Alessio remembers. ''Here was
death the family would receive her dwindled, and only the perfume an original.''
perfume royalty payments, too. A line and the original shop on rue
few years later, the Wertheimers Cambon remained. Frustrated with Lagerfeld was hired in 1983 to
bought from the Bader family the the business's poor performance, design Chanel couture; a year later
remaining 20 percent of the house. Jacques's son, Alain, a 25-year-old he took over ready-to-wear as well.
who barely knew Coco, petitioned His mandate was to resurrect the
Chanel kept making headlines: the board of trustees to let him take label. To do that he had to resurrect
Marilyn Monroe declared the only over the company. Coco Chanel. Lagerfeld has based
thing she wore to bed was No. 5, whole collections on famous pho-
and Jacqueline Kennedy stood Alain had little business experi- tos of her by Cecil Beaton or Horst,
solemnly next to her husband ence he had interned at Moët & and imagined her romances with

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the polo-playing Boy Capel and
Grand Duke Dmitri of Russia. And
while, season after season, he con-
tinues to design contemporary
clothes, the root of each collection
is the cardigan jacket suit that
Chanel herself created in 1925.
Lagerfeld is famously mercuri-
al, but several years ago he
described his relationship with the
house's owners: ''There's one divine
person in the whole business, and
that's Alain Wertheimer. If it
weren't for him, it would never
work. He and I made a pact, like
between the Devil and Faust, and
he is 100 percent behind me. So I
can do what I like, when I think I
should do it -- even if the political
or commercial idea is the opposite
of what I should'' be doing. This
statement, more than any other,
reflects the Wertheimers' business
strategy. Unburdened by published
growth figures, they can invest in
the long-term. As Alain once
explained: ''We don't think about
return. We are not buying to sell.
We're buying to make it better.''
and Gucci dominating the young
luxury market. Chanel has not pro-
duced a must-have handbag in
more than a decade.
The Wertheimers are currently
looking for a corporate coordinator
to recruit design talent and pull
together the many factions that
Lagerfeld has created over the
years, so that if and when Lagerfeld
does step down, the transition will
go smoothly. As Didier Grumbach,
the president of the French fashion
federation and the former manufac-
turer of Chanel ready-to-wear,
observed, ''Designers will come
and go, but Chanel will always be
Chanel. And the Wertheimers will
always be behind it.''

In the last decade, Chanel has

continued to grow, introducing
Allure perfume in 1996, a sports
collection, a watch line and a fine
jewelry collection sold in 200
Chanel boutiques and in-store
shops. Though the cosmetics and
perfumes sell enormously well,
fashion sales have slowed in the
last few years, according to sources
close to the Wertheimers and
Lagerfeld, with upstarts like Prada

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 CHANEL, INC.,
M ANUFACTURER
recognized as a producer of
fine cosmetic and fragrance prod-
ucts, recently decided to enhance
the efficiency of its modern manu-
facturing facility in Piscataway,
New Jersey, by upgrading its man-
ufacturing plant, processes and
data collection practices.
Chanel's progressive manage-
ment investigated the possibility of
further computerizing its manufac-
turing procedures and methods of
data collection, during the planning
stage of its manufacturing area
upgrade.
Like many other manufactur-
ers, Chanel previously used paper
batch sheets to instruct its operators
as to which formulas should be
produced and in what quantities.
This method of record keeping was
labor intensive and time consum-
ing. The company decided that a
computerized manufacturing sys-
tem that would eliminate the need
for employees to have to write,
total or key-board-enter any manu-
facturing data was required. The
computerized system would help
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
the company maintain high-quality computer workstations and bar
products, while speeding up pro-
duction and eliminating the poten-
code printers and scanners. The
electronic scales used in these areas
tial for record-keeping and tran- were directly interfaced to the com-
scription errors. puter workstations. Instead of the
paper batch sheets previously used
After evaluating various sys- to show the operators what ingredi-
tems, Chanel chose the ents and weights where required,
Manufacturing Execution System the new system displays this infor-
(MES) Dispense Master from mation on the computer screen.
Valdata Systems USA, Inc., a New Dispense Master is a real-time,
Jersey-based systems developer. totally paperless system.
Dispense Master is designed as a
bolt-on software program that Using the system
directly interfaces to the main
office Manufacturing Resource The computerized system
Planning (MRP) computer pro- prompts the operators to scan a bar
gram. Once the production require- code label on the raw material
ments have been scheduled in the ingredient container to verify that
MRP system, they are automatical- the correct ingredient and lot have
ly downloaded to the Dispense been selected. Then it prompts
Master system by means of the them to weigh the specified quanti-
Warehouse Management System. ty. The computer takes weight data
Dispense Master then takes respon- directly from the scales and verifies
sibility for controlling the manu- that the required weight is within
facturing process and collecting the tolerance allowed before it will
and recording all manufacturing accept and record the weight infor-
data. mation. A bar code label, which
contains human readable and bar
During the manufacturing facil- code data, is then printed and
ity upgrade, the material pre-weigh applied onto the batched pre-weigh
areas were fitted with touch-screen container.
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 Dispense Master automatically
collects production data as it is pro-
duced. It eliminates the need for
operators to manually write or use
keystrokes to enter data, speeding
up production and eliminating the
potential for recording and tran-
scription errors. Operators only
have to touch the computer screen,
or scan in bar-coded data, to enter
information into the system. The
system not only eliminates the pos-
sibility of batch errors caused by
incorrect data entry, but also incor-
rect ingredients, incorrect lots or
incorrect weights.
Dispense Master also produces
a validated audit trail of all transac-
tions, and this information is auto-
matically sent to the company's
MRP program, which then updates
its inventory and batch files.
Dispense Master closes the loop
from the shop floor to the office.
After the ingredients required
for a formula have been weighed,
they are taken to the mixing and
blending area. Operators in this
area are very mobile, so they use
portable computer workstations
that interface to the system by radio
frequency (RFLAN). These
portable systems also support bar
code scanning and printing. The
operators are prompted to scan the
pre-weighed bar code ingredient
container labels as they are added
to the batch. Dispense Master
System will accept only the
required containers for that batch"
The system will check each
ingredient container before allow-
ing the operator to continue pro-
cessing. When all the required con-
tainers have been correctly added,
the system will print out a new bar
code label to identify the bulk
batch. Chanel requested a custom
modification to the software that
allows the manufacturer to individ-
ually assign mixing tanks to batch-
es based on production priorities.
The modification also allows them
to schedule the mixing tanks for
cleaning or maintenance.
When all the mixing processes
have been completed and the fin-
ished bulk product is ready to move
to the filling line, the system
prompts an operator to start trans-
ferring the finished bulk product
storage containers. Each container
is placed on a scale that is inter-
faced to a computer workstation,
the empty container is tared out and
the product is transferred. When the
transfer is complete, the system
prints out a bar code label that is
placed onto the container. It is at
this stage of the operation that the
office MRP s)'stem changes the sta-
tus of raw materials that are work-
in-process, to finished bulk product
inventory automatically.
Streamlining efficiencies
Dispense Masters method of
prompting and then auditing opera-
tors through each stage of the man-
ufacturing processes is unique. Its
ability to automatically send and
receive data from the office MRP
system has sped up and streamlined
Chanel's manufacturing processes.
The new system has impressed
both the operators who use the sys-
tem and Chanel's management
group. George Ott, Chanel's execu-
tive director of manufacturing said,
"Valdata's Dispense Master System
has streamlined our raw material
weighing and batch processing
operations, while improving inven-
tory accuracy and process control.
The Compound operators find the
system easy to navigate and use,
resulting in improved efficiency."
In fact, Chanel has estimated that
the system has increased efficien-
cies by 20-30 percent. By sending
clean, validated production data to
the MRP system, the system has
extremely high levels of system
data accuracy, and the new system
helps operators do their jobs-thor-
oughly and accurately...

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 81 YEARS, THE are the lifeblood of the beauty BeautyTrends in Port Washington,
F OR THE LAST
CHANEL NAME HAS CARRIED A industry,'' said Irma Zandl, presi-
SPECIAL RESONANCE FOR WOMEN 30 dent of the Zandl Group in New
N.Y., which tracks the beauty
industry, the leading brands owned
AND OLDER, who have made Chanel York, a consulting company that and used most often by women 18
No. 5 the world's leading fragrance. specializes in the under-30 age cat- to 34 in 2001 include: Happy by
But the younger market has proved egory. ''A brand not recruiting teens Clinique, which had overall sales of
elusive for Chanel, a state of affairs or young adults is just getting old.'' $101 million in 2001; Romance by
it intends to change with the intro- Ralph Lauren, at $63 million;
duction of its latest fragrance Over the last six years, Chanel Tommy Girl by Tommy Hilfiger, at
appealing to 20-somethings. has gradually made inroads into the $42 million; Victoria's Secret
younger consumer market. In 1996, Divine (which is not tracked by
Chanel makes a big pitch for a new the company introduced Allure, NPD, but has annual sales estimat-
perfume aimed at young women, its marketed to women in their late ed at $40 million); Lancaster Cool
toughest market. 20's and 30's. Coco Mademoiselle Water Woman at $30 million;
soon followed, and its target mar- Calvin Klein's Obsession at $27
Chanel's name for the new fra- ket was women 25 and up. million; and CK One at $20 mil-
grance Chance is fitting. To capture lion.
the fancy of this fickle group of ''So, it's not something that, you
women of ages 18 to 29, Chanel is know, we just woke up one day and Arie L. Kopelman, president
giving Chance the biggest market- said 'Oh, uh-oh, No. 5 customers and chief operating officer at the
ing push in the company's history are aging, we better go find a United States unit of the French
with an introductory budget esti- younger consumer,' '' said Laurie couture house Chanel, is confident
mated at more than $12 million. Palma, senior vice president for that Chance will be among the top
Chanel is flinging itself into a mar- fragrance and Internet marketing at tier of this group. He predicts that
ket already crowded by competi- Chanel in New York. ''in the short term,'' Chance will be
tors' earlier entrants, like Happy by ''as big as Chanel No. 5.'' Domestic
Clinique and CK One from Calvin But neither Allure nor Coco sales for No. 5 were $50 million in
Klein. Mademoiselle has made great 2001, putting it in sixth place
inroads into the 18-to-34 market, among all fragrances, according to
Chanel's aggressive plans are which represents a third of the $2 NPD.
self-explanatory, industry billion women's fragrance market.
observers said. ''Young consumers According to a study by NPD has given Chance a light, fresh,

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floral scent, which is meant to con- efforts, including roll-on minibot-
vey a youthful, sexy and romantic tles in targeted areas like college
attitude, Ms. Palma said. campuses.

To differentiate it from all other ''We have tried to make Chance

Chanel fragrances, which come in
square-shaped bottles and are pack-
aged in black and white or beige,
the Chance bottle is circular and
packaged in pink. The scent will be
available in domestic department
stores later this month and in other
countries next spring.
modern and young and do all the
things that we needed to do for this
generation, but still keep it ground-
ed, rooted in what Chanel is all
about,'' Mr. Kopelman said. ''And
you can have your cake and eat it in
this situation. They are not mutual-
ly exclusive.''

The ads, created by an internal The marketing effort could turn

team and photographed by Jean- off some of Chanel's core audience,
Paul Goude, also try to differentiate warned Clive Chajet, a corporate
Chance from some of the other suc- identity and brand consultant. If
cessful fragrances geared to 20- Chance is for the young, then, ''all
somethings. The print ad features a other Chanel fragrances are for
16-year-old Russian model, Anne older women only, and if you're not
Vyalitsyna, dressed in a gown, using their younger fragrance, then
clinging to the enormous bottle, you're old.''
embracing ''her chance.'' The kicker
reads, ''The unexpected new Chanel But, in the end, Ms. Zandl said:
fragrance.'' ''It's all about the juice. The adver-
tising can bring them to the fra-
''I don't think Chanel in blue grance bar where they're going to
jeans would be interesting,'' Ms. test it, but then it's the juice itself is
Palma commented. ''That's Tommy what makes the sale.''
or Ralph, which they have that
already.''

The television commercial,

shot in Venice, is set to the tune
''Taking a Chance on Love'' and
shows a young couple doing just
that.

Chance will also have a major

Internet program within the Chanel
Web site, scented impressions in
magazines and extensive sampling

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 81 YEARS, THE and CK One from Calvin Klein. But neither Allure nor Coco
F OR THE PAST
CHANEL NAME has carried a
special resonance for women 30 Chanel's aggressive plans are
Mademoiselle have made great
inroads into the 18 to 34 market,
and older, who have made Chanel self-explanatory, according to which represents a third of the
No. 5 the world's leading fragrance. industry observers. "Young con- US$2 billion women's fragrance
But the younger market has proved sumers are the lifeblood of the market. According to a 2001
elusive for Chanel, a state of affairs beauty industry," said Irma Zandl, Women's Fragrance Track
it intends to change with the intro- president of the Zandl Group in Consumer Study by NPD
duction of its latest fragrance New York, a consulting company BeautyTrends in Port Washington,
appealing to 20-somethings. that specializes in the under-30 age New York, which tracks the beauty
category. She added that, "A brand industry, the leading brands owned
A new scent: not recruiting teens or young adults and used most often by women 18-
is just getting old." to-34 years old include: Happy by
Long a favorite brand for Clinique, which had overall sales of
older women, the Over the last six years, Chanel US$101 million in 2001; Romance
perfume giant decided to hire has gradually made inroads into the by Ralph Lauren, at US$63 million;
a consulting company that younger consumer market. In 1996, Tommy Girl by Tommy Hilfiger, at
specializes in marketing to the company introduced Allure, US$42 million; Victoria's Secret
the under-30 crowd marketed to women in their late Divine (which is not tracked by
20s and 30s. Coco Mademoiselle NPD, but has annual sales estimat-
Chanel's name for the new fra- soon followed, and its target mar- ed at US$40 million); Lancaster
grance Chance is fitting. To capture ket was women 25 and up. Cool Water Woman at US$30 mil-
the fancy of this fickle young group lion; Calvin Klein's Obsession at
of women between the ages of 18 "So, it's not something that, you US$27 million; and CK One at
and 29, Chanel is giving Chance know, we just woke up one day and US$20 million.
the biggest marketing push in the said `Oh, uh-oh, No. 5 customers
company's history with an intro- are aging, we better go find a Arie L. Kopelman, president
ductory budget estimated at more younger consumer,'" said Laurie and chief operating officer at
than US$12 million. Chanel is Palma, senior vice president for Chanel Inc, the US unit of the
flinging itself into a market already fragrance and Internet marketing at French couture house Chanel, is
crowded by competitors' earlier Chanel Inc. in New York. confident that Chance will be
entrants, like Happy by Clinique among the top tier of this group. He

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predicts that "in the short term," The television commercial, shot
Chance will be "as big as Chanel in Venice, Italy, is set to the tune
No. 5." "Taking a Chance on Love" and
shows a young couple doing just
Domestic sales for No. 5 were that.
US$50 million in 2001, putting it in
sixth place among all fragrances, Chance will also have a major
according to NPD. Internet program within the Chanel
Web site, scented impressions in
Chanel has given Chance a magazines and extensive sampling
light, fresh, floral scent, which efforts, including rollerball mini-
Palma said is meant to convey a bottles in targeted areas like college
youthful, sexy and romantic atti- campuses.
tude.
"We have tried to make Chance
To differentiate it from all other modern and young and do all the
square-shaped Chanel fragrances things that we needed to do for this
that are packaged in black and generation, but still keep it ground-
white or beige, the Chance bottle is ed, rooted in what Chanel is all
circular and packaged in pink. The about." He added, "And you can
scent, with an entry price point of have your cake and eat it in this sit-
US$38.50, will be available in uation. They are not mutually
domestic department stores later exclusive."
this month and in other countries
next spring. The marketing effort could turn
off some of Chanel's core audience,
The ads, created by an in-house warned Clive Chajet, a corporate
team and photographed by Jean- identity and brand consultant. If
Paul Goude, also try to differentiate Chance is for the young, then "all
Chance from some of the other suc- other Chanel fragrances are for
cessful fragrances geared to 20- older women only. And if you're
somethings. The print ad features a not using their younger fragrance,
16-year-old Russian model, Anne then you're old."
Vyalitsyna, dressed in a gown,
clinging to the enormous bottle, But, in the end, Zandl said, "It's
embracing "her chance." The tag all about the juice. The advertising
line reads, "The unexpected new can bring them to the fragrance bar
Chanel fragrance." where they're going to test it, but
then it's the juice itself is what
"I don't think Chanel in blue- makes the sale."
jeans would be interesting," Palma
said. "That's Tommy or Ralph,
which they have already."

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 hANEL SA IS ONE OF THE LEG- Chanel designer. 1997. In 2002, rumors began circu-
C ENDARY NAMES IN PERFUMES.
The company has parlayed its pres- 1996: Chanel acquires gun maker
lating of a possible marriage with
the famed house of Hermès. During
tigious brand name into a world- Holland & Holland. the new millennium, Chanel has
leading retail empire. In addition to stepped up its purchases in the lux-
its flagship perfume brand Chanel 1997: Chanel acquires high-end ury sector, acquiring A. Michel et
No. 5 which has long been the swimwear designer Eres. Cie, exclusive hat maker for the
world's top-selling perfume Chanel haute couture set and the famed Les
has expanded its line to include 2001: Chanel acquires stake in lux- broderies Lesage, which provides
women's fashions, jewelry and ury watchmaker Bell & Ross. embroidery for the haute couture
accessories, handbags, leather industry. These acquisitions com-
goods, and other products. 2002: Chanel acquires milliner A. plement the company's existing
Michel et Cie. and embroidery fashion industry holdings, such as
Key Dates house Lesage. the Lemarie, a flowers and feathers
craftsman and Desrue, producer of
1922: Pierre Wertheimer agrees to buttons. Meanwhile, Chanel has
back new perfume developed by been attempting to break into the
Coco Chanel, and founds Parfums Company History: skin care segment, launching its
Chanel. own line under the Precision brand.
While its products are sold Chanel SA is a private company
1929: Company launches new fra- through third parties, Chanel also wholly owned by the Wertheimer
grance, Soir de Paris. operates its own network of more family. The company's revenues are
than 80 company-owned retail estimated to top EUR 2 billion per
1954: Coco Chanel makes Parisian stores worldwide. There are also year.
comeback after fleeing to more than 120 Chanel shop-in-
Switzerland following World War shop boutiques in leading depart- Launching Perfume History in the
II. ment stores around the world. 1920s
Chanel has also begun building up
1974: Alain Wertheimer takes con- a portfolio of luxury brands, Chanel SA traces its roots back
trol of company. including gunsmith Holland & to 1870, when Ernest Wertheimer
Holland and high-end French moved from Alsace, France, to
1983: Karl Lagerfeld is hired as bathing suit maker Eres, bought in Paris during the Franco-Prussian

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War. Shortly after his arrival he
purchased an interest in a French
theatrical makeup company called
Bourjois. Bourjois successfully
introduced dry rouge to the
European market in the 1890s. The
company grew rapidly, and by the
early 1920s, Bourjois had begun
making and distributing skin
creams from his Rochester, New
York, plant for cosmetic industry
giant Helena Rubenstien. By the
1920s, Bourjois had become the
largest cosmetics and fragrance
manufacturer in France.
Though the Wertheimer family
would control the finances of
Chanel from its inception, the
impetus and creative vision for the
company came from Coco Chanel.
Theophile Bader, founder of the
successful French department store
chain Galeries Lafayette, intro-
duced Coco Chanel to Ernest
Wertheimer's son, Pierre, in 1922.
Coco Chanel sought financial help
from Pierre Wertheimer to market a
fragrance she had developed in
1921. An admirer of Coco Chanel,
Pierre Wertheimer wanted to help
her succeed and, two years after
their introduction, he founded
Parfums Chanel to make and sell
her upscale perfume, named Chanel
No. 5. Pierre Wertheimer funded
the venture and retained a 70 per-
cent ownership share in the compa-
ny. Coco Chanel got a modest 10
percent of the company and Bader
received 20 percent.
During the 1920s and 1930s
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Parfums Chanel thrived. In addition In 1935 Chanel hired a Parisian
to selling the famous Chanel No. 5 attorney, René de Chambrun, to
perfume, the company eventually renegotiate her agreement with the
introduced other fragrances. In Wertheimers. But the Wertheimers
1929, Pierre Wertheimer intro- successfully quashed those
duced Soir de Paris, a fragrance attempts. Furthermore, her fashion
aimed at the general public and business sputtered during the late
marketed through the Bourjois 1930s and at 56 years of age Coco
company. Meanwhile, Coco Chanel Chanel closed it when the Nazis
operated a successful fashion stu- invaded France. Coco Chanel
dio near the Louvre museum in found a new way to fight the
Paris. Under an agreement with the Wertheimers during World War II.
Wertheimers, she operated her In fact, the Wertheimers fled the
design business as a separate com- country in 1940, eventually landing
pany, but sold the clothes under the in the United States. With the pow-
Chanel name. Although Parfums erful Wertheimer family gone,
Chanel and Coco Chanel's design Coco Chanel went to work trying to
business flourished, the personal use new occupation regulations to
relationship between Coco Chanel take control of the Parfums Chanel
and Pierre Wertheimer deteriorated. partnership. But the savvy
Wertheimers stymied that move,
The friction between Coco too. In their absence, they found an
Chanel and the Wertheimer family Aryan proxy to run their businesses
stemmed from Coco Chanel's dis- and keep Coco Chanel at bay.
satisfaction with the terms of their
original agreement. Coco Chanel During World War II, Coco
resented what she viewed as an Chanel stayed in Paris, moving into
attempt by the Wertheimers to the Hotel Ritz with her new para-
exploit her talents for their own mour, Hans Gunther von
gain. She felt she should have a Dincklage, a Nazi officer.
larger than 10 percent portion of the According to one of Coco Chanel's
company, and she argued that she biographers, Edmonde Charles-
had unwittingly signed away the Roux, she played a role in a secret
rights to her own name. The peace mission near the end of the
Wertheimers countered her griev- war. Charles-Roux contends that
ances with an argument that German intelligence sent Coco
reminded Coco Chanel that the Chanel to visit Winston Churchill
Wertheimers had funded her ven- as part of a secret peace mission.
ture in the first place, giving her the Coco Chanel was arrested immedi-
chance to take her creations to mar- ately after the liberation of France
ket, and had made her a relatively and charged with abetting the
wealthy woman. Germans, but Churchill intervened
on her behalf and she was released.
621
Postwar Comeback
After her release, Coco Chanel
immediately fled France for
Switzerland. Meanwhile, Pierre
Wertheimer returned to Paris to
resume control of his family's hold-
ings. Despite her absence, Coco
Chanel continued her assault on her
former admirer and began manu-
facturing her own line of perfumes.
Feeling that Coco Chanel was
infringing on Parfums Chanel's
business, Pierre Wertheimer want-
ed to protect his legal rights, but
wished to avoid a court battle, and
so, in 1947, he settled the dispute
with Coco Chanel, giving her
$400,000 and agreeing to pay her a
2 percent royalty on all Chanel
products. He also gave her limited
rights to sell her own perfumes
from Switzerland.
Coco Chanel never made any
more perfume after the agreement.
She gave up the rights to her name
in exchange for a monthly stipend
from the Wertheimers. The settle-
ment paid all of her monthly bills
and kept Coco Chanel and her for-
mer lover, von Dincklage, living in
relatively high style. It appeared as
though aging Coco Chanel would
drop out of the Chanel company
saga.
At 70 years of age in 1954,
Coco Chanel returned to Paris with
the intent of restarting her fashion
studio. She went to Pierre
Wertheimer for advice and money,
and he agreed to finance her plan.
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In return for his help, Wertheimer racing stables and horse breeding
secured the rights to the Chanel operations; Pierre Wertheimer had
name for all products that bore it, established one of the finest racing
not just perfumes. Once more, stables in the world in 1910, and
Wertheimer's decision paid off Jacques became a renowned horse
from a business standpoint. Coco breeder. According to some critics,
Chanel's fashion lines succeeded in however, he did not direct as much
their own right and had the net attention on the operation of
effect of boosting the perfume's Chanel.
image. In the late 1950s
Wertheimer bought back the 20 New Management in the 1970s
percent of the company owned by
Bader. Thus, when Coco Chanel In 1974, Jacques's 25-year-old
died in 1971 at the age of 87, the son Alain Wertheimer gained con-
Wertheimers owned the entire trol of the company. While the
Parfums Chanel operation, includ- press suggested that the move to
ing all rights to the Chanel name. new management involved animos-
ity and family feuds, Chanel man-
Pierre Wertheimer died six agement maintained that control
years before Coco Chanel passed was ceded in a friendly and peace-
away, putting an end to an intrigu- able manner.
ing and curious relationship of
which Parfums Chanel was just Chanel No. 5 was still a global
one, albeit pivotal, dynamic. Coco perfume leader when Alain
Chanel's attorney, Rene de Wertheimer took the helm. But,
Chambrun, described the relation- with only 4 percent of the pivotal
ship as one based on a business- $875 million U.S. market, its dom-
man's passion for a woman who felt inance was fading. After years of
exploited by him. "Pierre returned mismanagement, Chanel had
to Paris full of pride and excitement become viewed by many
[after one of his horses won the Americans as a second-rate fra-
1956 English Derby]," Chambrun grance that appealed to out-of-style
recalled in Forbes. "He rushed to women. Alain Wertheimer suc-
Coco, expecting congratulations ceeded in turning Chanel around in
and praise. But she refused to kiss the United States. He removed the
him. She resented him, you see, all perfume from drugstore shelves in
her life." an effort to create a greater sense of
scarcity and exclusivity. As the
Pierre Wertheimer's son, number of U.S. outlets carrying
Jacques, took control of the Chanel Chanel No. 5 plummeted from
operation in 1965. The 55-year-old 18,000 to 12,000, Alain
Jacques was perhaps best known Wertheimer pumped millions into
for his management of the family's advertising Chanel's fragrances and
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cosmetics. His efforts increased trends, the Chanel fragrance clothes, cosmetics, and accessories.
profits. remained classic and unchanged.
Even the Chanel No. 5 bottle, with The Wertheimers would have
In 1980, Alain Wertheimer its traditional black-and-white label been wealthy without their Chanel
stepped up efforts in Chanel's U.S. and simple lines, was considered a business. However, Chanel's suc-
fashion operations. Attempts to work of art by the company. "We cess in the 1980s was credited with
parlay the Chanel fashion division introduce a new fragrance every 10 boosting the Wertheimer family's
into a profit center and promotional years, not every three minutes like wealth to a new level, and by the
device for Chanel's fragrances suc- many competitors," explained late 1990s the Wertheimer family's
ceeded. A large part of the compa- Chanel marketer Jean Hoehn fortune was estimated to top $5 bil-
ny's success could be credited to its Zimmerman in Marketing News. lion. Alain Wertheimer moved his
hiring of famed designer Karl "We don't confuse the consumer. offices to New York in the late
Lagerfeld in 1983, who revitalized With Chanel, people know what to 1980s, reflecting Chanel's emphasis
the company's clothing fashions expect. And they keep coming back on the U.S. market. Although sales
and remained its chief visionary to us, at all ages, as they enter and of high-end goods were hurt by the
into the next century. leave the market." Indeed, the global recession of the early 1990s,
launch of a new fragrance, Coco, in demand began recovering in the
During the 1980s Chanel the 1980s, was to provide the com- mid-1990s and Chanel continued to
opened up more than 40 Chanel pany with another strong perfume expand its boutique chain and prod-
boutiques worldwide. By the late success. uct line.
1980s those shops sold everything
from $200-per-ounce perfume and Luxury Goods Conglomerate for the Wertheimer remained chairman
$225 ballerina slippers to $11,000 21st Century of the company while Françoise
dresses and $2,000 leather hand- Montenay, the company's CEO and
bags. Importantly, Alain As a result of Alain president, was charged with bring-
Wertheimer refused to relinquish Wertheimer's efforts during the ing it into the next century. In the
control of anything related to the 1980s and early 1990s, Chanel's 1990s Chanel began expanding its
family's Chanel operations. In fact, performance improved significant- holdings, acquiring Lemarié, one of
Chanel remains one of the few ly. Going into the 1990s, in fact, the most renowned feather and
companies in the cosmetic and Chanel was considered a global flower crafts houses for the Parisian
apparel industry that does not leader in the fragrance industry and fashion industry. The company
license its fragrances, cosmetics, or a top innovator in fragrance adver- continued in this trend with the
apparel to other producers or dis- tising and marketing. Chanel con- acquisition of milliner A. Michel et
tributors. tinued to spend more on advertising Cie. and embroidery house Lesage.
than almost any other perfume Chanel was rumored to be interest-
While Lagerveld revamped the company and, as a result, was reap- ed in acquiring another famed sup-
company's clothing designs, the ing the fattest profit margins in the plier to the haute couture set, boot-
rest of the company's designers and industry. In addition, the company and shoemaker Massaro.
marketers carefully maintained a had continued to expand into new
conservative, proven image so as product lines, including Chanel In 1996, Chanel acquired
not to tamper with the Chanel leg- watches retailing for as much as exclusive gun maker Holland &
end. Although other perfumes had $7,000; additions to its popular Holland. The company's attempt to
changed to follow short-term shoe line; and other high-priced extend that brand name to a wider

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range of fashions met with a luke- Principal Competitors: Bulgari
warm reception, forcing Chanel to S.p.A.; Cartier SA; Chanel S.A.;
scale back and realign Holland & Christian Dior SA; Gianfranco
Holland to its original concept. A Ferre SpA; Gianni Versace SpA;
more promising acquisition came Gucci Group N.V.; Hermès
in 1997, when Chanel bought high- International; I Pellettieri d'Italia
end swimsuit maker Eres. In 2001, S.p.A.; LVMH Inc. (U.S.); LVMH
the company acquired a stake in up- Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA;
and-coming watchmaker Bell & Montres Rolex S.A.; Puig Beauty
Ross. & Fashion Group; Compagnie
Financière Richemont AG; S.T.
Chanel continued to expand its Dupont S.A.; Tiffany & Co.
retail holdings at the beginning of
the century. In 2001 the company's
U.S. subsidiary launched a new
retail concept, featuring only acces-
sories bearing the Chanel name. In
July 2002 the company rolled out a
new jewelry and watch flagship
store on New York's Madison
Avenue, and expected to build up
these sales with the expansion of its
network of independent retailers.
Shortly after, the company opened
a new, 1,500-square-foot handbag
and shoe flagship store next door to
its jewelry and watch store in New
York, bringing the total number of
Chanel stores in the United States
to 25. The company also targeted
the Far East, opening a new 2,400-
square-foot boutique in Hong
Kong, and paying nearly $50 mil-
lion to acquire a building in Japan's
Ginza shopping district. After 80
years, the Chanel name continued
to attract customers from around
the world.

Principal Subsidiaries: Chanel Inc.

(USA); Chanel KK (Japan); Chanel
Hong Kong; Paraffection.

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The Humble Beginnings - The Early
Years
T HE SIMPLE MENTION OF THE
NAME ‘CHANEL’ and images of
luxury, grandeur and haute couture
spring up in minds across the
world. As one of the most recog-
nized and venerated brands in fash-
ion history, Chanel came from the
impoverished streets of France to
revolutionize women’s fashion and
liberate it from its restrictions.
Thirty years after her death,
Chanel’s lasting impact on the
fashion world can still be felt.
Première interview à la
télévision de Mademoiselle
Coco Chanel dans son
bureau... sur la mode, sa
prochaine collection, l'élé-
gance, son don, son style et
les imitations.
A celle-ci succède une présen-
tation des modèles de la
collection 1959 par le man-
nequin vedette de Chanel,
Marie-Hélène ARNAUD, et
d'autres mannequins.
Phrase finale de Mlle
CHANEL dans l'escalier
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sur la collection présentée: girl of that time. But, Chanel didn’t
have the opportunities of most
Born on August 19, 1883 in other children and her childhood
Saumur, France, Gabrielle Bonheur would soon be interrupted once
‘Coco’ Chanel was the illegitimate again.
daughter of a shop girl and a street
peddler who would know little of When she was 17 years old,
the comforts of a stable family life. Chanel was sent to an Aubazine
Her mother passed away when orphanage, where nuns took over as
Chanel was just six years old, and it her primary caregivers. Supportive
wouldn’t be long before her father of her efforts as a seamstress, the
also abandoned her. Averse to nuns helped Chanel get a local job
fatherhood, he quickly ran off and to build her talents. But, Chanel
left the young Chanel and her four was bored with the simplicity of her
siblings to fend for themselves on surroundings and decided to pursue
the streets of France. They went to a life of excitement and stardom.
live with their two aunts in She abruptly took off for the town
Auvergne, France and it was here of Moulins in an attempt to become
where Chanel learned much of the a cabaret singer.
etiquette that would characterize
her later career. While singing didn’t prove to
be Chanel’s forte, the experience
Living with her aunts, Chanel was valuable in that it introduced
was taught how to be a polite little her to Etienne Balsan, a rich French
girl, to sit up straight and to learn playboy and textile heir who took a
how to sew. She took an early lik- liking to the young aspiring singer.
ing to sewing and instead of play- Chanel soon found herself as a mis-
ing with dolls, spent much time tress to Balsan and living a luxuri-
dressing them in material she had ous life. But, Balsan had many mis-
cut from curtains. She also spent tresses and Chanel grew bored
her time playing sports and horse- again. She rekindled her interest in
back riding, atypical activities for a sewing and approached Balsan
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with a business proposition. With
more money than he knew what to
do with, Balsan decided to give
Chanel the money she needed to
open up her own hat and dress shop
in Paris.
It was a small boutique with
just two teenage girls as employees,
but Chanel’s first venture into the
world of fashion proved successful.
She became one of the popular go-
to ladies for the well to do of Paris.
It wouldn’t be long before Chanel
was moving on to bigger and
brighter things, turning her single
little store into one of the most
powerful empires in the fashion
industry.
The Beauty Magnate - Chanel
Leaves Her Mark
Chanel was beginning to make
a name for herself among the who’s
who of Paris all the while acquiring
a taste for their luxuries and deca-
dent lifestyle. With her modest hat
and dress store, Chanel’s reputation
was already beginning to grow as a
woman who had little interest in the
extravagant and tight-fitting clothes
that were all the rage at the time.
Instead, she opted for darker and
simpler dresses that drew their
inspiration from men’s clothing as
well as the outfits of the nuns she
had grown up around.
With her new taste of the opu-
lent life, Chanel decided to leave
Balsan and link onto the arm of his
friend, a wealthy businessman by
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the name of Arthur “Boy” Capel. on a special concoction for a
The two would go on to enjoy a French company. Chanel sampled
passionate affair until Capel’s life the essence and after making a few
was cut short by a car accident suggestions, convinced Beaux to
while on his way to see Chanel in give it to her instead. With that, the
1919. But, in their early days legendary Chanel No. 5 perfume
together, it would be Capel who was born in 1924.
helped get Chanel’s career off the
ground. He provided the financing At the same time, Chanel had
for Chanel to open an additional also been making quite a name for
two boutiques in Biarritz and herself in the inner circles of the
Deauville. elite, having romantic liaisons with
many of the most notable dukes and
In no more than four years, businessmen of the time. But, it
Chanel’s business had become so was one relationship in particular
successful that she was able to pay that would threaten to destroy
back the startup money she had ini- Chanel’s career completely.
tially received from Capel in full
this, despite the fact that it was During World War II, Chanel
given to her as a gift, not a loan. closed down her business and
Chanel had broken into the fashion began a relationship with a German
industry by being a trendsetter, Nazi officer. Her reputation in the
gaining inspiration for her designs public’s eyes became quickly and
largely from her lover’s closet and irrevocably damaged. She thought
using traditionally masculine mate- her years as a designer were fin-
rials to make them. Instead of the ished and she stayed out the spot-
ornate pieces of her competitors, light until 1954, when at the age of
Chanel’s creations were minimal 71, Chanel decided to make a
and unpretentious yet still sophisti- comeback. To this day, nobody
cated. Her “little black dress” knows if she returned because she
quickly became a staple in the fash- was bored or if she wanted to
ion world. reclaim her territory amongst the
growing competition. But, it didn’t
While her prominence as a matter Chanel was back.
fashion designer was continuing to
grow, it was the release of a product She received a lukewarm recep-
in the 1920s that would immortal- tion in Europe, where her designs
ize Chanel. After the death of were not perceived as being as rev-
Capel, Chanel had become mistress olutionary as they once were.
to the Russian Grand Duke Dmitri, Americans thought otherwise and
through whom she met Ernest embraced Chanel with open arms.
Beaux. Beaux was in the perfume Europe would follow soon after.
industry and was currently working
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 Chanel quickly climbed back to
her position at the top of the fashion
ladder and continued to innovate
and create designs until her death at
the age of 88. She never married
and had no children, but Chanel
had achieved the kind of success
that most others only dream about.
Today, under the direction of Karl
Lagerfeld, Chanel remains one of
the most prestigious and successful
fashion houses in the world.
Lesson # 1 - Be One of a Kind
“In order to be irreplaceable
one must always be different,” said
Chanel. “People laughed at the way
I dressed, but that was the secret of
my success: I didn’t look like any-
one.”
Having grown up in an orphan-
age and being surrounded by the
simple black outfits of the nuns that
looked after her, Chanel emerged
into adulthood with a different view
of fashion. She disliked the look of
corsets and felt that women were
taking on too much discomfort in
the name of fashion. “Luxury must
be comfortable, otherwise it is not a
luxury,” she said.
With that opinion, Chanel set
out to bring her unique vision to the
fashion industry. She was a
resourceful woman who tried to
bring her creativity to her products
in a distinctive way. For instance,
Chanel grew tired of holding her
purse and became the first designer
to ever attach a chain to a purse. A
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fashion faux pas at the time, it was “Innovation! One cannot be
only a matter of time before forever innovating,” she exclaimed.
Chanel’s invention had become the “I want to create classics.” When
latest fashion trend. Soon, more Chanel No.5 was released, it was
purses than not would have chains not only the first perfume to bear a
and straps attached thanks to designer’s name, but it also had a
Chanel’s unique vision. distinctly masculine scent and bot-
tle that set it apart from its competi-
It was Chanel who introduced tors. Yet again, Chanel had created
the world to numerous fashion something unique that would prove
trends that were unheard of at the able to stand the test of time;
time, but which soon became the throughout the 1990s, the company
industry standard. When she want- claims to have been selling one bot-
ed a shoe that would flatter her foot tle of Chanel No.5 somewhere in
and give the appearance of a longer the world every thirty seconds.
leg, Chanel created her famous
two-tone sling-back, a shoe that By creating classic pieces that
was tan at the foot but black at the were nonetheless unique, Chanel
toe. This had never been done was able to become not only a
before and it took a visionary like mainstay in the fashion industry but
Chanel to see that it was possible. also one of the most powerful guid-
ing forces behind the latest fashion
It was this kind of problem- trends.
solving that Chanel brought to all
of her product lines that allowed Lesson # 2 - Be Bold
her to be so successful. Her designs
weren’t like all the others; they “In fashion, you know you have
were unique, they were simple, and succeeded when there is an element
they were practical. Chanel intro- of upset,” said Chanel.
duced the women of the world to
the sailor blouse, stretch jerseys, When Chanel first introduced
costume jewelry, cashmere cardi- her jersey and tweed suits for
gans, chic waterproof raincoats, women, she was rebuked by the
and most famously, the ‘little black European critics. But, Chanel gave
dress’, which even today remains a no matter. From day one, her career
basic necessity in almost every had been characterized by her will-
woman’s wardrobe. ingness to defy convention time
after time. Whether it was through
Chanel was an innovative force her own personal style or the prod-
in the fashion industry despite the ucts she designed, Chanel was
fact that she felt the constantly audacious and paid no attention to
changing nature of fashion trends those who didn’t see eye to eye
was a little on the ridiculous side. with her vision. “The most coura-
627
geous act is still to think for your- ladies unthinkable to everyone but is in the air, born upon the wind.
self,” she said. “Aloud.” Chanel, that is. She was willing to One intuits it. It is in the sky and on
take that bold first step and soon, the road.” A passionate woman,
She created her signature scar- her jersey dresses were all the rage. Chanel found the inspiration for her
let lipstick before such a colour was designs in the simplicities of her
ever envisioned for a proper lady’s “How many cares one loses everyday life. From the closets of
lips; she wore open-necked shirts when one decides not to be some- her lovers to the time she spent out-
when everyone else was buttoning thing but to be someone,” said doors on her frequent fly-fishing
theirs up; and she wore trousers that Chanel. When she accidentally expeditions, Chanel never stopped
showed off her ankles which only singed her hair, instead of worry- seeking out ideas for new product
men had been able to do before. ing, Chanel boldly decided to chop lines.
“Success is often achieved by those it all off. Would her new hairstyle
who don't know that failure is ruin her image of femininity and Chanel’s fame came almost as
inevitable,” said Chanel. She class? She wasn’t worried. She much from her personal exploits
ignored the critics and continued showed up to an opera with her rad- and relationships as it did from her
embodying her bold vision of fash- ically short tomboyish hair and designs. From Picasso to Salvador
ion and femininity. almost immediately, she had creat- Dali to Stravinsky to Diaghilev,
ed the latest fashion trend. The next Chanel became a companion to
During the First World War, day, women everywhere were many of the most powerful and tal-
when Chanel was just starting to going to hairdressers to demand ented men of her time. But, she
grow in prominence, she ran into this new hairstyle, called the ‘bob’. wasn’t just idling her time away in
trouble. Fabric supplies were run- their company. Instead, Chanel was
ning low the world over and she did “I’ve never done anything by using them for the inspiration they
not know how she was going to halves,” said Chanel. Her career were providing her.
continue designing her clothes. She was characterized by a willingness
could have given up, closed down to be bold, to take risks, to defy During the 1930s, Chanel came
her business, waited for the war to convention and to challenge stereo- as close as she ever would to mar-
end and hoped that she could begin types. She ignored society’s rules rying. She was the mistress to the
anew afterwards. But, giving up and created a style all her own. It Duke of Westminster, one of
was not in Chanel’s nature. was her readiness to be daring and Europe’s richest men, and was due
follow her own path that set Chanel to marry him but in classic Chanel
Because Chanel had always apart from her competitors and style, she changed her mind,
loved wearing men’s clothing and attracted loyal customers the world explaining, “There have been sev-
borrowing clothes from her part- over. She offered women exciting eral Duchesses of Westminster.
ners’ closets, she came up with a new propositions and in opening There is only one Chanel.” But, it
bold new idea to use jersey to make the door to a new world of fashion was during her time with the Duke
women’s dresses. Before Chanel, freedom, Chanel turned the indus- that Chanel got her inspiration for
jersey was a fabric whose use was try on its head. her soft-belted coat, tweed jackets
limited to men’s underwear. It was and blazers, sailor sweaters and
unthinkable that the same material Lesson # 3 - Be Inspired cuff-linked shirts. She had bor-
that was used to create men’s rowed his wardrobe to create a
underwear should be used to make “Fashion is not simply a matter sense of style all her own.
fashionable dresses for proper of clothes,” said Chanel. “Fashion

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Chanel also sought inspiration from
the natural environment around her.
She had an enduring love for the
camellia, a large, delicate flower
whose leaves are simple and
arranged in an alternate pattern.
She became infamous for trying to
immortalize the flower in fabric
and for wearing a white camellia
herself on many occasions. The
camellia is said to represent radi-
ance and purity and was soon being
placed on Chanel bags, belts and
jewelry, in addition to clothes. This
simple flower would become one of
Chanel’s classic trademarks.
Throughout most of her career,
Chanel made her home in her
beloved Ritz Paris, in which her
suite continues to be named after
her to this day. Her view over-
looked the Place Vendôme, a
hexagonal open area in the centre
of Paris. It was this shape that
inspired many of Chanel’s cre-
ations, including numerous watch
faces as well as the stopper for the
Chanel No.5 perfume bottle.
“A fashion that does not reach
the streets is not a fashion,” Chanel
once said. Not only did Chanel
bring her fashion to the streets, but
she was also able to take fashion up
from the streets, using the personal-
ity of a city and its natural environ-
ment to inspire her creations. The
simplicity of this approach was a
large part of their appeal; a simple
flower on the side of a handbag
would bring more elegance than a
thousand tiny frills and laces.
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Chanel understood that message Chanel didn’t create her prod-
and made it the basis of all her cre- ucts with just beauty in mind; she
ations. She took the beauty from didn’t want women to be beautiful
the world around her and trans- just so they could leave their hous-
formed it into beautiful products es. She wanted women to be beau-
that could sell. tiful so that they could leave their
houses and become someone, to do
Lesson # 4 - Leave a Strong something important. Chanel knew
Impression all too well that in order to succeed
in any industry, it was important to
“Dress shabbily and they present yourself as the success that
remember the dress,” said Chanel. you dream of being. And, for her, it
“Dress impeccably and they was important to feel like a real
remember the woman.” Chanel woman. “The more feminine a
understood the importance of woman, the stronger she is,” said
appearance to getting ahead in the Chanel.
business world. Looking her best
wasn’t just a matter of wanting to She once joked that, “A woman
feel feminine or being attractive for who doesn’t wear perfume has no
Chanel, it was also a way to gain future.” Chanel was a staunch
respect. believer in the importance of per-
sonal appearance as being a con-
When Chanel first started her tributing factor in one’s profession-
own business, she did so at a time al success. In the 15 seconds it
when it was almost unheard of for takes for someone to make a first
women to be calling the shots. She impression, Chanel believed it was
had to struggle to break into the important to fill that time with
male-dominated industry and knew nothing but elegance and class.
that in order to do so, she would
have to present herself as well put Beauty, according to Chanel,
together as possible. Chanel was something that was attainable
believed that it was a simple fact of by any woman who put any effort
life the more beautiful the woman, into it. “Nature gives you the face
the more successful she would be. you have at twenty,” said Chanel.
“I don’t understand how a woman “It is up to you to merit the face you
can leave the house without fixing have at fifty…a woman has the age
herself up a little if only out of she deserves.” Investing in your
politeness,” said Chanel. “And appearance was an investment in
then, you never know, maybe that’s your future, according to Chanel.
the day she has a date with destiny. By presenting yourself as an ele-
And it’s best to be as pretty as pos- gant, youthful and refined woman,
sible for destiny.” she believed that you were commu-
nicating success itself. If you
629
dressed the part, you could achieve ficulties were just beginning. Her In 1954, Chanel launched her
the part. reputation in the public’s eye was first comeback collection but it was
destroyed because of her associa- not the success she had envisioned.
A lthough she spoke mainly of tion with the Nazis. Chanel European fashion critics dismissed
femininity and would never have believed that her career as a design- her line as the same old thing and
defined herself as a feminist, er had effectively come to an end. believed Chanel had passed her
Chanel’s contribution to the eman- prime. America, on the other hand,
cipation of women is indisputable. She was 56 years old and she embraced her new collection and
It was this desire to help women was giving up. Relying primarily within three seasons, Chanel had
feel beautiful and successful that on the continuing sales of her per- regained her position atop the fash-
kept Chanel working in the industry fume as her income, Chanel ion industry. She gave her classic
until the day she died. “I love luxu- became a recluse and tried as hard Chanel suit a makeover, along with
ry,” she said. “And luxury lies not as possible to stay out of the public her handbags, jewelry and shows.
in richness and ornateness but in eye. For fifteen years, the world Soon, Chanel had become a status
the absence of vulgarity. Vulgarity saw little of Chanel and, except for symbol for a brand new generation
is the ugliest word in our language. her name lining the shelves of per- of wealthy women and celebrities.
I stay in the game to fight it.” fume departments she had faded
into the background. She had disappeared from the
Lesson # 5 - Take a Second Chance industry for over 15 years. When
It was in 1954 when Chanel Chanel returned, she had to fight
World War II proved to be a decided that she wanted to make a not only a tarnished reputation but
turning point in Chanel’s career. comeback. Numerous reasons are now her younger competition as
Despite being wildly successful, given for her return; Chanel wanted well. She had been written off and
Chanel decided to close up shop in to stop the rise of Christian Dior, was considered past her prime, but
1939, when France declared war on who was bringing women back to Chanel persevered to regain her
Germany. She closed the doors of an era of tight, restricting clothing; fashion crown. Chanel knew she
her stores and stopped designing sales from her perfume were had a fresh wave of ideas and ener-
altogether. While other couturiers falling; and she was just plain gy coming to her and she set out to
were leaving the country, Chanel bored. claim her second chance to use
decided to remain in her beloved them.
Ritz Paris apartment. It was here Regardless, Chanel was now in
where she would live out the con- her seventies and would be compet- Taking Haute Couture to New
troversy that was soon to surround ing against a fresh, young crop of Heights: How Chanel Achieved
her life. designers. Could she handle the Success
challenge? She believed so and
During the war, Chanel had armed with that faith in herself, When Time magazine pub-
begun a relationship with Hans Chanel set out to find the financing lished its list of the 100 most influ-
Gunther von Dincklage, a German she needed, assemble her staff, and ential people of the 20th century,
Nazi officer who was 13 years find the fabrics and equipment she Chanel was only the person in the
younger than her. It was von required to reinvigorate her compa- fashion industry to be named. With
Dincklage who protected Chanel at ny. She was, in essence, starting all that, her influence on not only her
the Ritz Paris. But, once the war over again. own field, but on the world as a
was over, Chanel found that her dif- whole, became obvious. “When I

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can no longer create anything, I’ll ers served as inspiration for Chanel tinues to represent an image of chic
be done for,” Chanel once said. She and wound up in some form or and elegance around the world.
was a dedicated workaholic who another in her creations. By looking
devoted herself competely to her to the ordinary in order to get ideas, Coco Chanel Quotes
work until the day she died at the Chanel was able to create the
age of 88. What were Chanel’s extraordinary. Dress shabbily and they remember
succses factors? the dress; dress impeccably and
She Communicated Success: they remember the woman.
She Was Different: From her For Chanel, beauty was not just
style to her personality to her mar- about looking good. It was about Fashion passes, style remains.
keting, everything about Chanel presenting oneself in a way that
was unique. She brought a new garnered respect from the outside Fashion is not simply a matter of
vision of women’s fashion to the world and allowed one to move for- clothes. Fashion is in the air, born
industry and, with its boyish quali- ward with one’s own goals. By tak- upon the wind. One intuits it. It is in
ties, simplicity and clean lines, she ing care of your appearance, the sky and on the road.
revolutionized the field. She Chanel believed that you would be
brought fashion down to a practical able to present yourself as a power- In order to be irreplaceable one
level, all the while maintaining a ful and successful person, even if must always be different.
sense of class and elegance that you weren’t there quite yet.
appealed to the elitest of women. A girl should be two things: classy
She Was Resilient: “Elegance is and fabulous.
She Was Daring: She fashioned refusal,” Chanel said refusal to give
elegant women’s dresses out of the up. Chanel never lost faith in her- The most courageous act is still to
same material that was used to cre- self. Despite having to overcome think for yourself. Aloud.
ate men’s underwear, and at a time her age and her ruined reputation,
when women weren’t even sup- she was able to make a comeback As long as you know men are like
posed to be thinking about men’s in the industry at the age of 71. She children, you know everything.
underwear. She cut her hair and reinvented her designs and gave
wore loose clothing when society them a fresh spin, which helped Success is often achieved by those
told her she should have long, flow- make her company a leader once who don't know that failure is
ing hair and tight corsets around her again. inevitable.
body. Chanel was willing to take
the risks she needed to in order to “May my legend prosper and How many cares one loses when
reach the top. thrive,” said Chanel. “I wish it a one decides not to be something but
long and happy life.” Indeed, her to be someone.
She Was Inspired: Chanel once company continues to thrive. By
attended a masquerade ball dressed refusing to license out the Chanel Don't spend time beating on a wall,
as a figure from a Watteau painting. name, the company has maintained hoping to transform it into a door.
The compliments she received strict quality control over its prod-
from her outfit prompted her to turn ucts, allowing it to stay at the top of The best color in the whole world,
it into a woman’s suit. Everything its game in all the decades since is the one that looks good, on you.
from paintings to men’s clothing to Chanel’s death. Today, Chanel’s
architectural shapes to simple flow- overlapping double ‘C’ logo con- A women who doesn't wear per-

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fume has no future. on a new dress. object of passion. Flee it if you feel
it. Passion goes, boredom remains.
Elegance is not the prerogative of Nature gives you the face you have
those who have just escaped from at twenty; it is up to you to merit Some people think luxury is the
adolescence, but of those who have the face you have at fifty. opposite of poverty. It is not. It is
already taken possession of their the opposite of vulgarity.
future. Fashion is made to become unfash-
ionable. It is the unseen, unforgettable, ulti-
A woman is closest to being naked mate accessory of fashion that her-
when she is well dressed. Fashion is architecture: it is a mat- alds your arrival and prolongs your
ter of proportions. departure.
If a man talks bad about all women,
it usually means he was burned by Those who create are rare; those I don't know why women want any
one woman. who cannot are numerous. of the things men have when one
Therefore, the latter are stronger. the things that women have is men.
I don't understand how a woman
can leave the house without fixing My friends, there are no friends. A woman has the age she deserves.
herself up a little - if only out of
politeness. And then, you never Great loves too must be endured. Innovation! One cannot be forever
know, maybe that's the day she has innovating. I want to create clas-
a date with destiny. And it's best to A style does not go out of style as sics.
be as pretty as possible for destiny. long as it adapts itself to its period.
When there is an incompatibility Why am I so determined to put the
There goes a woman who knows all between the style and a certain state shoulder where it belongs? Women
the things that can be taught and of mind, it is never the style that tri- have very round shoulders that
none of the things that cannot be umphs. push forward slightly; this touches
taught. me and I say: 'One must not hide
Elegance is refusal. that!' Then someone tells you: 'The
Luxury must be comfortable, other- shoulder is on the back'. I have
wise it is not luxury. Since everything is in our heads, never seen women with shoulders
we had better not lose them. on their backs.
There is time for work, and time for
love. That leaves no other time. I love luxury. And luxury lies not in When I can no longer create any-
richness and ornateness but in the thing, I'll be done for.
There are people who have money absence of vulgarity. Vulgarity is
and people who are rich. the ugliest word in our language. I Material things aside, we need no
stay in the game to fight it. advice but approval.
I invented my life by taking for
granted that everything I did not Look for the woman in the dress. If Youth is something very new:
like would have an opposite, which there is no woman, there is no twenty years ago no one mentioned
I would like. dress. it.

Elegance does not consist in putting Jump out the window if you are the Guilt is perhaps the most painful

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companion of death.
I was the one who changed, it was-
n't fashion. I was the one who was
in fashion.
A fashion that does not reach the
streets is not a fashion.
Scheherezade is easy; a little black
dress is difficult.
May my legend prosper and thrive.
I wish it a long and happy life.
In fashion, you know you have suc-
ceeded when there is an element of
upset.
I've never done anything by halves.
My reason for choosing diamonds
is that, dense as they are, they rep-
resent the greatest worth in the
smallest volume.
Mademoiselle Coco Chanel
In her inner circle of friends,
fashion designer Coco Chanel was
known as ‘Mademoiselle’. Over
her fifty-odd year career of running
her own business, she came to be
considered as the ‘Grande
Mademoiselle’ of both the fashion
industry and high society. Coco
Chanel not only revolutionized
what women wore, but also the
roles they were supposed to play in
society.
Through her clothes, Chanel
wanted to celebrate the freedom
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
and equality of women. By playing Everything that this designer
with simple designs and typically did was meant to emphasize an
‘masculine’ fabrics, she offered an alternative way of living. Much
alternative to the more constraining liker her simpler style of dress, her
women’s fashion at the time. By the celebrated Chanel No. 5 perfume
mid-1920s, corsets were out; a pop- was unique for its time. Not only
ular ‘Chanel look’ had been adopt- was its name basic, but so too was
ed, consisting of a wool jersey suit the design of its bottle, with its rec-
with a full-cut, short skirt, and a tangular lines and cut stopper. She
straight, collarless jacket. would not have any of the ornate
and romantic bottles so popular at
The designer herself was the the time.
embodiment of this new look. By
using unconventional models and “I did not go into society
appealing to fashion magazines, the because I had to design clothes,”
designer forced the fashion indus- she once remarked. “I designed
try to accept her more masculine clothes precisely because I did go
designs. She was no longer simply into society. Because I was the first
about creating stylish hats and to live the life of this century.”
designer threads. She had done
something bigger she had created a It was with this legacy in mind
new way of life, and in so doing, that in 2001, under the direction of
laid the foundation for the coming Karl Lagerfeld, the House of
women’s liberation. Chanel introduced Coco Chanel
Mademoiselle. Known as the
However foolish it was, and younger sister to the more grown-
however much business sense it up fragrances, Coco Chanel
didn’t make at the time, Mademoiselle is aimed at the
Mademoiselle Coco Chanel refused younger generation of independent
to follow the fashion trends dictated fashionistas. It is described as, “A
to her by the society in which she light sensual fragrance, a luminous
lived. Instead, she focused on sophisticated fragrance, a modern
designs that she would actually interpretation!”
want to wear. Her influence and
ability to impact new trends was Chanel was a woman ahead of
soon unparalleled. A simple trip to her time. This younger fragrance is
Venice, Italy, in which meant to provide the same sense of
Mademoiselle Coco Chanel wore empowerment and freedom that the
bell-bottom trousers in order to be designer tried to infuse throughout
able to better climb out of the gon- her collection in her own time.
dolas would soon start the pants
revolution for women.
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Coco Chanel Handbag
The launch of the first Coco
Chanel handbag in 1955 marked
the beginning of a fashion revolu-
tion. Coco had retired in 1939, and
had been written off by most in the
industry. Her perfumes could still
be bought at Chanel outlets, but she
had stopped making any new
designs, and had effectively retired
from the fashion business. When
she made her comeback at the age
of 71, and introduced the innova-
tive and hugely popular Coco
Chanel handbag, her success was
thus all the more remarkable.
The purse that would turn the
fashion world on its head was a
quilted one, but it was not the mate-
rial that made it such a unique phe-
nomenon. For the first time in fash-
ion history, a woman’s handbag
now had a chain shoulder strap on
it. No longer did a woman have to
hold her purse in her hands.
Instead, she was free to sling it over
her shoulders and use her hands
however she pleased. This purse
was thus, in a sense, empowering.
Coco Chanel’s designs were all
about simplicity and functionality,
but with a classic sense of style.
This ourse was meant to reflect this
philosophy. The designer herself
never left her house without her
own over her shoulder. And, it
seemed that soon the rest of the
world would agree with her idea. In
its first year, this purse became so
popular that the designer had to
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refuse many of the requests for dress’, the company continues to be
orders that hade been made to her. a leader and an innovator in the
She simply didn’t have the time or industry.
the staff to make them all. After all,
the high quality and fine craftsman- Coco Chanel Sunglasses
ship that she insisted upon for all of
her products meant that it was a Carrie, Miranda, Charlotte,
painstaking process to manufacture Samantha…You? What could you
each individual one. possibly have in common with the
girls from the hit HBO show Sex
In little time, her signature and the City? Well, put on a pair of
Coco Chanel handbag was being Coco Chanel sunglasses and you
copied all around the world. It would be close.
became known throughout the
industry as the Chanel 2.55 after In 1999, in partnership with
the month and the year it was intro- Italian eyewear producer Luxottica,
duced. Today, variations of the the House of Chanel introduced its
Coco Chanel handbag remain as first line of eyewear and eyeglass
sought after as they were fifty years frames. It doesn’t matter that the
ago. The 2006 Luxury Line, with designer had passed away twenty-
its metal chain embedded in leather, eight years ago; her legacy remains
was one of the most anticipated as founder of one of the most
Coco Chanel handbags of the year. prominent and revered brands in
the world. Inspired by her own cre-
The enormous brand power of ations, Karl Lagerfeld of Fendi
Chanel is such that it has inspired fame launched a line of Chanel eye-
entire lines of fake and much wear that has risen dramatically in
cheaper purses, complete with the popularity thanks in large part to
now famous double-C logo, in the ladies of Sex and the City.
countries such as Vietnam,
Thailand, and China. Whereas an Chanel once described luxury
authentic one costs an average of as “the necessity where necessity
$1,500, a fake one usually costs just ends.” Lagerfeld’s line of eyewear
$60. And, with little noticeable dif- and the cult-like craze that sur-
ference to the untrained eye, rounds them would certainly meet
demand for the cheaper purse has that description. Whether it’s wear-
been growing. It is a problem that ing a trendy pair out on the town
the House of Chanel is committed with a pair of Manolo Blahniks like
to dealing with. In the meantime, Carrie, a classic pair for the office
however, the fashion powerhouse like Charlotte, or a leopard print
remains at the top of its game. pair for the gym like Samantha,
Whether it is a Coco Chanel hand- there seems to never be a wrong
bag or a watch or its ‘little black time to wear a pair.
634
 In today’s celebrity-obsessed
culture, you will be hard-pressed to
find a celebrity brave enough to be
seen without a pair of sunglasses,
be they Coco Chanel sunglasses or
another. A chic pair of shades can,
in and of themselves, make a state-
ment. One only needs to look at
Jackie O, one of the first celebrities
to begin wearing fashionable over-
sized sunglasses a trend that has
continued to this day to understand
the impact of sunglasses.
Sunglasses are no longer about
protecting your eyes, or at least not
these ones. They’re about complet-
ing a style, finishing a look, and
setting oneself apart from the
crowd. Hiding behind shades might
give off an air of mystery, but they
no doubt reveal much more about
your personality than you might
think. From Mirrorshades and
Aviators, to Wayfarers and
Glaciers, there are sunglasses for
every personality type. Heck, even
the Roman emperor Nero used to
prefer watching gladiator fights
through polished emeralds his own
early version of sunglasses.
While buying your own pair no
matter which Sex and the City girl
you most identify with will run you
into the hundreds of dollars, many
aficionados and die-hard Chanel
fans consider it a necessary invest-
ment, just as Coco once said her-
self. After all, with the enormous
staying power that the brand has
demonstrated in the near century
that it has been in existence, and the
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House of Chanel’s continuous pen-
chant for innovation under the
direction of Lagerfeld, it seems
unlikely that any pair you choose to
invest in will go out of style any
time soon.
Just make sure you don’t let
them out of your sight; even the
most refined and polite of girls has
been known to turn into a greedy
fiend at the sight of a pair of Coco
Chanel sunglasses.
Coco Chanel Perfume
In 1924, legendary fashion icon
Coco Chanel remarked, “I want to
give women an artificial perfume.
Yes, I really do mean artificial, like
a dress, something that has been
made. I don’t want any rose or lily
of the valley; I want a perfume that
is a composition.” Today, eighty-
three years after the first launch of
Chanel No. 5, Coco Chanel per-
fume remains as popular as ever
and indeed, one of the best known
brands in the world.
The idea of creating a fragrance
first arose in 1920, when the young
fashion designer was introduced to
Ernest Beaux through her beau at
the time, the Russian Grand Duke
Dmitri. Beaux was a perfumer, and
at the time was working on a spe-
cial concoction for another compa-
ny. After sampling the scent, she
convinced Beaux to sell it to her
instead, and thus was launched the
first of her scents, Chanel No. 5.
635
Initially, this new fragrance was
introduced solely to the fashion-
ista’s personal friends and her best
clients. However, in 1924, after
partnering with French business-
man Pierre Wertheimer, the product
went public, with Wertheimer own-
ing 70 percent, Coco owning 10
percent, and another private
investor owning 20 percent. Today,
the Wertheimer family continues to
run that side of the business.
From Chanel No. 5 to her later
Coco Mademoiselle and Chanel
Coco fragrances, Coco Chanel per-
fume is based on Coco’s desire to
have a scent that “reflects my per-
sonality, something abstract and
unique.” In her own time, most per-
fumes were based on the idea of
being ‘beautiful’ through the likes
of floral scents in order to further
enhance a woman’s beauty.
However, Coco Chanel perfume
was meant to contrast this natural
beauty by being more artificial.
Sales of the fragrance have con-
tinued to increase over time, espe-
cially after being introduced in the
U.S. in the 1950s. In 1953, sales
skyrocketed when Marilyn Monroe
famously answered the question of
what she wore to bed with the
answer, “Two drops of Chanel No.
5.” Even Andy Warhol got on the
bandwagon, when he made nine
silk screens of Chanel No. 5. In
1959, the uniqueness of the product
design itself landed the bottle in the
Museum of Modern Art in New
York City. Over the years,
spokespersons for the product have At the age of 17, the future after, but Coco Chanel’s business
included Catherine Deneuve, designer was sent to live in an kept on growing. In fact, in less
Estella Warren, and Nicole orphanage, where nuns taught her than four years, she was able to pay
Kidman. the basic techniques of sewing and back all the startup money she had
helped her land a local job as a received from her beaus despite the
In the 1970s, the market domi- seamstress. However, this life was fact that they were given to her as
nance that Coco Chanel perfume meant for more exciting things than gifts, not loans.
was enjoying began to fade. Many a seamstress, and so the ambitious
women, especially in America, young girl took off for the town of This life story was beginning to
began to view it as a fragrance for Moulins to become a cabaret stand out because so too were her
out-of-style women. However, singer. clothes. With her ‘little black dress’
Pierre Wertheimer’s grandson and masculine-inspired pieces,
Alain had recently taken over con- While the experience in Chanel was quickly becoming a
trol of the company and focused his Moulins did not open up any fashion trendsetter throughout
efforts on turning it around. By singing opportunities, it did set this Europe. She soon expanded beyond
spending millions of dollars on life story in a new direction. It was clothing, and in 1924, launched the
advertising, profits slowly began to here that she met Etienne Balsan, a product that would make her
rebound. Today, Chanel No. 5 rich, young French textile heir to immortal the famous Chanel No. 5
remains one of the most famous whom she soon became mistress. perfume. For the time being, it
and most expensive perfumes Bored with her life as a mistress, it appeared that nothing could go
available anywhere in the world. wasn’t long before she would wrong for this designer.
Indeed, at a price of hundreds of approach Balsan with a business
dollars per ounce, it is the special proposition; she wanted to open up However, during World War II,
woman that can afford the special a hat and dress shop in Paris. Rich she began to stand out for another
Coco Chanel perfume. as he was, Balsan gave her the reason: she was having a personal
money. In little time, this had relationship with a German Nazi
Coco Chanel Biography become the story of a budding officer. Public opinion of her quick-
entrepreneur. Indeed, her little Paris ly turned sour and she withdrew
The Coco Chanel bio is a story shop was quickly becoming one of from the spotlight. It wasn’t until
that begins far removed from the the most popular boutiques in all of 1954, when she was 71 years old,
opulence that her name would later Paris. that her life story would take a turn
come to represent. Born in Saumur, for the better. The designer had
France, in 1883, Gabrielle Bonheur Much like her darker and sim- decided to make a comeback.
‘Coco’ Chanel was the illegitimate pler clothes than were fashionable
daughter of a shop girl who would at the time, the Coco Chanel bio At first, Europeans did not take
die soon after and a traveling sales- began to stand out from the rest. well to the reemergence of Coco
man who would abandon his She soon left Balsan and became Chanel, but over time, she would
daughter on the streets of France. It involved with Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel, regain her position at the top of the
was her two aunts, with whom she a wealthy businessman who industry, and would continue to
was sent to live, who would teach financed her expansion. An addi- dominate until her death at the age
the young girl the etiquette that tional two boutiques were built in of 88. Today, the Coco Chanel bio
would come to shape the Coco Biarritz and Deauville. Capel stands out as a story of success by
Chanel bio. would die in a car accident not long innovation.

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C HANEL REVOLUTIONIZED HAUTE
COUTURE FASHION by replacing
the traditional corseted silhouette
with the comfort of simple suits
and long, lean dresses. She intro-
duced to the world her signature
cardigan jacket in 1925. She had
numerous other major successes
that changed the fashion industry
including the ever popular "'Chanel
suit'", composed of a knee-length
skirt and trim, boxy jacket, tradi-
tionally made of woven wool with
black sewing trim and gold but-
tons, worn with large costume-
pearl necklaces.
History
The hem of the suit is weighted
down with a chain. Wealthy
women around the world began to
flock to her 31 Rue Cambon bou-
tique to commission couture outfits
from her. The House of Chanel
became an icon of elegance and
from then on, the name “Chanel” The Coco Chanel Era
became synonymous with ele-
gance, wealth, and elitism, as well
as the ultimate sign of French high House of Chanel, began her fash-
class.
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After the phenomenal success
of her perfume, No. 5, Coco
Chanel's fashions became even
more well-known and were pur-
chased by the high flyers of
London and Paris society alike.
Chanel took to living at the Hôtel
Ritz Paris, and her suite of resi-
dence has become famous and is
now named the "Coco Chanel
Suite."
Chanel is also known for its
quilted fabric which also has a
"secret" quilting pattern sewn at the
back to keep the material strong. It
was inspired by the jackets of jock-
eys. This material is used for cloth-
ing and accessories alike. The
brand is now headed by German-
born designer Karl Lagerfeld, who
also designs for the House of
Fendi, as well as his namesake
label.
Coco Chanel, founder of the
ion career in 1910. She heralded
new designs and revolutionized the
637
fashion industry by going “back to
basics,” incorporating elegance,
class, and originality. Under her
tight reign from 1909-1971, Coco
Chanel held the title as ‘Chief
Designer’ until her death on
January 10, 1971.
1909 - 1932
In 1909, Chanel opened a
millinery shop, under the name of
‘Chanel Modes’, at 21 Rue
Cambon in Paris. Her hats were
worn by famous French actresses
who helped establish her reputa-
tion. Chanel introduced in 1913
women’s sportswear at her new
boutique in Deauville, France. Her
line of jersey clothing was a reac-
tion to the lifestyle changes sur-
rounding WWI. Coal was scarce
and women were taking on factory
jobs in the men's stead. They need-
ed warm clothing that would stand
up to working conditions. Her
clothes of this time period were
also greatly affected by the relative-
ly new idea of women's sports.
Chanel has continued in that trend,
producing sports clothing, acces-
sories, and equipment even more so
today.
Her fashion became known in
1915 throughout France for priori-
tising freedom of movement by not
featuring ostentation and redundan-
cy in her designs. She affirmed the
House’s style of authentic, fluid
and comfortable lines. She then
opened her first couture house in
Biarritz, France, to introduce her
other fashion lines.
1921 saw the introduction of
her first perfume Chanel No. 5. It
was internationally popular with
women of high society in particu-
lar. “La Société des Parfums
Chanel" was founded in 1924 to
produce and sell perfumes and
beauty products. Just before
launching her first perfume, she
met with a fortune teller, who told
Coco that her lucky number was 5.
So she named her scent "No. 5",
and released it on the fifth day of
the fifth month of the year, May 5.
1924 also greeted the first
Chanel costume jewelery collection
that Harper’s Bazaar described as
“one of the most revolutionary
designs of our time.”
In 1926, Chanel introduced the
‘little black dress,’ greeted by
Vogue as the ‘new uniform of the
modern woman.’ That same year,
Chanel introduced the classic
tweed. Inspired by visits to
Scotland with the Duke of
Westminster, Chanel created her
first tweed suits.
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Chanel premiered an exhibition pass with her death. Other posthu-
of jewelery in 1932 dedicated to the mous projects came to light a few
diamond. Several of the pieces, years later. In 1974, the House of
including the ‘Comet’ and Chanel launched Cristalle eau de
‘Fountain’ necklaces were re-intro- toilette, which was in the workings
duced by Chanel in 1993. when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978
saw the launch of the first non-cou-
1935 - 1981 ture, prêt-à-porter line and world-
wide distribution of accessories. In
In 1939, she retired from fash- 1981, Chanel launched a new eau
ion design and closed her popular de toilette for men, Antaeus.
couture house. Only her perfumes
and accessories were sold at The Karl Lagerfeld Era
Chanel’s boutiques.
A Chanel shop in Prince's
Coming out of fashion retire- Building, Central, Hong Kong.
ment at the age of 71, Chanel re-
opened the couture house in 1954. Karl Lagerfeld would become
Her first show received internation- one of the most iconic designers of
al acclaim, with her signature jer- recent times. With his flashy sense
sey suit being introduced that bore of style combined with a strong
her favourite number: 5. In vision of a new Chanel, Lagerfeld
February 1955, Chanel introduced brought the couture house to new
the quilted bag with the shoulder levels, and is still continuing to
strap, named the 2.55 bag after the woo and awe the fashion world.
month and year of its creation. That
same year, Chanel launched her 1983 was the year of change for
first eau de toilette for men, Pour the House of Chanel. It was the
Monsieur. year Karl Lagerfeld was appointed
‘Artistic Director’ for Chanel
In 1957 at the Fashion Awards Fashion, including haute couture,
in Dallas, Chanel and her spring prêt-à-porter, and accessories. He
collection received the Fashion shocked the fashion world by
Oscar. The fashion world applaud- changing Chanel’s fashion lines
ed her as the ‘most influential from the predictable same styles
designer of the twentieth century.’ that greeted world year after year to
On January 10, 1971, Coco shorter cuts and eye capturing
Chanel died, ending an era of revo- designs. In 1984, the House of
lutionary fashion that would still be Chanel launched the fragrance,
the classic model fashion designers Coco, in honour of the late Coco
today find inspiration in. Chanel. In 1986, the House of
Chanel struck a deal with watch-
However, her influence did not makers and in 1987, the first
638
Chanel watch made its debut. 1990
saw the launchL'Z'1996 greeted the
launch of Allure fragrance and due
to its immense popularity, a men’s
version, Allure Homme was
launched in 1998. The House of
Chanel launched its first skin care
line, PRÉCISION in 1999. That
same year, Chanel launched a new
travel collection, and under a
license contract with Luxottica,
introduced a line of sunglasses and
eyeglass frames. 2000 saw the
launch of the first unisex watch by
Chanel, the J12, a style whose clean
cuts and fusion of masculine and
feminine elements formed a revolu-
tionary watch, and a supposed cult-
following in certain circles. To
please the younger fashionistas,
Chanel introduced Coco
Mademoiselle and an ‘In-Between
Wear’ in 2003. 2002 saw the launch
of Chance fragrance, with a scent
of surprise and glamour. The House
of Chanel founded the Paraffection
company that gathered the five
Ateliers d’Art: Desrues for orna-
mentation, Lemarié for feathers and
camellias, Lesage for embroiderer,
Massaro for shoemaker, and Michel
for millinery. A prêt-à-porter col-
lection proposing their know-how
was designed by Karl Lagerfeld. It
is now traditionally presented each
December. 2003 saw such an
immense popularity of Chanel
haute couture that the company
founded a second atelier on rue
Cambon. The sunglasses brand is a
brand of Italian Luxottica Group.
The No. 5 perfume had always
received free campaigns from
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actresses and starlets that used it Vietnam, Thailand, and China. An
daily, including Marilyn Monroe, authentic Chanel handbag retails
Nicole Kidman, and Vanessa from around $1,500, while a coun-
Paradis. terfeit usually costs around $100,
creating a demand for the signature
2005 - Present style at a cheaper price. All authen-
tic Chanel handbags are serialised.
The Luxury Line, introduced in
2006 featuring a metal chain Watches
embedded in the leather, is one of
the most desired "it" bags of the Creative Director at Chanel
moment. Chanel still is popular Jacques Helleu followed Coco
because they mix the trends of Chanel's credo, having designed the
today with the class and simplicity first Chanel watch named
they had when they first opened. 'Premiere' in 1987. The first model
of the Chanel J12 watches line was
The House of Chanel, under the introduced in 2000.
leadership of Karl Lagerfeld and
Brandi williams, has defined the In 2005, Chanel designers
style and fashion of Chanel as introduced the J12 line into the area
being the five essentials: audacious, of Fine Jewelry timepieces - they
perfectionist, unique, passionate, developed the jewelry watch that
and visionary. was equipped with the tourbillon.
Chanel asked experienced Swiss
The Iconic Logotype watchmakers to develop the exclu-
sive 'CHANEL O5-T.1' movement.
The Chanel logotype is an inter-
locking double-C, one facing for- In 2006, the line was joined by
wards the other facing backwards. Chanel J12 Haute Joaillerie set with
(Originally it was not a logo that 597 baguette-cut diamonds, fol-
Coco Chanel came up with) This lowed by the creation of the Chanel
derives from the name Coco J12 Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie. In
Chanel. "Coco" is the nickname 2007, Chanel launched its first J12
frequently used by Chanel founder, GMT model.
Gabrielle Chanel. The logotype
was not trade-marked until during In 2008, Chanel initiated the
the first openings of Chanel stores. partnership with Audemars Piguet,
Chanel is currently dealing with having developed the 'J12 calibre
illegal use of the double-C logotype 3125', equipped with an innovative
on cheaper goods, especially coun- automatic movement CHANEL AP
terfeit handbags. Countries said to 3125, the fusion of the AP 3120
be producing great numbers of movement and Chanel 'J12' ceram-
counterfeit Chanel handbags are ic.
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No. 5 The Film

Chanel has launched a new

advertising film that casts Nicole
Kidman as the new face of Chanel
No. 5. It was motioned and pro-
duced by Baz Luhrmann (director
of Moulin Rouge as well as the
1996 modern version of Romeo &
Juliet) and was shot on location in
Sydney. Kidman takes on the role
of the most famous woman in the
world while Brazilian Model/Actor
Rodrigo Santoro plays a struggling
writer who falls in love with
Kidman. The advert lasts 3 min-
utes, and took many months of pre
and post production. Also, about 26
million euros ($46 million) were
spent, making No. 5 The Film one
of the most expensive advertise-
ments in history.

Coco Mademoiselle ( Le Film )

Recently, the young Academy

Award-nominated actress Keira
Knightley and Brandi Williams has
been announced as the new faces of
Coco Mademoiselle, a fragrance
intended for the younger fans of
Chanel. A short advertising film
was made starring Knightley, who
subsequently plays Coco Chanel
herself, clad in a bowler hat and
short styled bob. The film was
directed by the BAFTA-winning
English film director Joe Wright,
who has also worked with
Knightley in his award-winning
films Pride & Prejudice and
Atonement

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 Day tells the paper that she
L IFE IS SMELLING EVEN SWEETER
for Nicole Kidman. doesn't know how serious the
Kidman-Kravitz relationship is.
"The Hours" Oscar winner, said
to be a close friend of the creative In her Chanel role, Kidman will
director at Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, assume a mantle previously held by
has been announced as the new some of the most beautiful women
international face of Chanel No. 5, in the world, including Ali
say published reports. MacGraw, Candice Bergen, Lauren
Hutton, Jean Shrimpton, Catherine
While financial details of the Deneuve and Carole Bouquet.
deal are not being revealed, the
Sydney Sun-Herald in Australia Such directors as Ridley Scott
reported that Kidman would be and Luc Besson have previously
paid $12 million Australian (about worked on one of the most high-
$8.5 million U.S.). profile campaigns in fashion,
Chanel No. 5 ads.
Kidman's Australian publicist,
Wendy Day, tells the paper: "It's a For her debut as the face of the
wonderful acknowledgement from house, Kidman will be reunited
Chanel and a great accolade for with her "Moulin Rouge" director
her." Baz Luhrmann, who reportedly
will direct and produce the ads,
Day, however, could not con- which will begin airing a year from
firm reports that Kidman was now.
preparing to announce her engage-
ment to Lenny Kravitz, after a
report in the London Daily Mail
that the couple would inform pals
and family members of their wed-
ding plans at a party in New York
in early December.

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 E WILL ONLY SAY SO IF PRESSED.
H Although why he should be so
hesitant is unclear. "Well on my
passport it says that I am a per-
fumer", says Jacques Polge, the top
man at Chanel. Part of the truth -
but certainly not the whole truth
and nothing but the truth. "Its just
that to most people it sounds a little
odd if I give a more accurate
description of my job", he confides.
"And what might that accurate
description be, Mr. Polge?", his
interviewer insists, evidently eager
to hear him articulate the magic
words. "Well", Polge replies a little
uneasily, "I am a nose".
He is far too modest that Mr.
Polge. For not only is he a nose, he
is undoubtedly the leading nose in
the world. Based in his elegant
fourth floor offices in Paris’s smart
Avenue Charles de Gaulle, and just
a stone throw from the Arc de
Triomphe, Polge’s brief is daunting
indeed: entrusted by Chanel to
interpret the aromatic heritage and
spirit of the late Mademoiselle her-
self, his constant challenge to adapt
and create new perfumes for the
contemporary world.
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Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel was
perhaps the most influential coutu-
rier of the twentieth century, her
glamorous designs helping to liber-
ate women from the plumed and
corseted extravagance of Belle
Epoch costume. Freeing women
from ostentatious displays of
wealth, she instituted a classically
elegant modern style that persists
to this day. All the more ironic,
therefore, that the most successful
of her ventures was the launching
of the apparently eternal fragrance
No. 5, introduced with much fan-
fare back in the early 1920s. A
classical heart, introduced by a
rush of dizzying sensuality, and
surrounded with a multitude of
light floral notes, No. 5 was daz-
zling, upsetting each and every
conventional aromatic notion of the
day. Almost immediately the repu-
tation of No. 5 spread overseas to
become one of the great mythical
symbols of our time. After the lib-
eration of Paris, G.I.’s who wanted
to take a bottle of the celebrated
perfume back home could be seen
waiting patiently to enter 31 rue
Cambon, forming queues over 500
meters long. Nor has its popularity
642
waned even to the slightest degree
with a whole generation of younger
women rediscovering Marilyn
Monroe’s definition of voluptuous-
ness to sleep in nothing more than a
few drops of No. 5. And therefore
surely something of a difficult act
for Mr. Polge to follow, n’est ce
pas?
"Most definitely", he admits.
And all the more so because he
never had the opportunity of meet-
ing Coco Chanel, the self-pro-
claimed Queen of Haute Couture,
whose reign endured for almost six
decades. "Of course it is a handicap
having to create perfumes without
her. But I try to overcome this by
having my own private dialogue
with her. And I think that goes for
all of us employed here at Chanel,
in perfumery and fashion alike."
So how does Mr. Polge go about
creating a new fragrance? Well, its
all in the mind, he insists. That is to
say a perfume is established in his
thoughts and imagination, only set-
ting out to produce the formula for
what has already been ‘smelled’
somewhere deep down in his psy-
che. This creative process can take
place at work, whilst in his lab
(aptly situated in the Avenue des
Parfums) or, just as likely, whilst
bellowing out Maurice Chevalier
songs under the shower.
Whereupon he declares the French
equivalent of ‘by George I’ve got
it’. He must have been working in
the lab or showering a lot, of late,
for during the course of the last few
years he has come up with best sell-
ing brand names such as Coco a
homage to Mademoiselle, of course
Égoïste, Christalle and Allure, the
fresh and sophisticated abstract-flo-
ral scent which Chanel is confident
will blaze a trail well into the next
century.
"Please forgive me if this sounds
rather rude but your nose looks
quite ordinary to me."
"It is", Polge retorts with a
smile. "A nose is made, not born. I
haven’t got a ‘better’ nose than
you. Its just that I have had a cer-
tain training; I am used to working
with my nose as a matter of course,
and as such I am able to put order
into what I smell. Its like becoming
proficient at the piano - there are
certain muscles that have to be
exercised regularly. Its the same
thing when it comes to perfumes
you need to train and work your
nose."
Do not even think of interrupt-
ing Polge at this point, for he is in
full flow. Anxious to explain the
universal appeal of perfumes, he is
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moving onto interesting terrain. Its
time for sex, philosophy and reli-
gion - subjects which are tradition-
ally taboo for the Anglo-Saxons -
but without mention of which no
day would be complete for any self-
respecting Frenchman.
"Perfume’, he asserts, "is an
internal dimension of femininity.
Nor is it a coincidence that some
98% of perfumes sold today are
from the famous marques of cou-
turiers. If companies such as
Chanel became interested in per-
fume and we were the first - then of
course its related to commercial
reasons. But it is also to do with
deeper reasons, which are telling us
that perfumes are to do with an
invisible prolongation of the work
being carried out by the couturier.
In other words the couturier acts on
the outside - and the continuation of
what he does is his perfume. Plus
olfaction is most definitely the most
‘wild’ of our senses - smell being
directly linked to primitive instincts
such as sex. People often ask me
what makes a beautiful perfume. To
which I reply its the perfume which
the woman you love is wearing."
"I am afraid that we noses are a
breed on the way to extinction", he
explains a little sorrowfully. "Its
just in the old days each marque
used to employ its own nose. What
tends to happen now is that very
few companies actually make their
own perfumes - they buy in or have
it made for them. To me the future
doesn’t seem very rosy."
643
Despite Polge’s pessimism
about the future, however, he has
been unable to deter his 23 year old
son Olivier from wanting to follow
in his father’s (how should one put
it?) - footsteps.
"I tried to talk him out of it",
Polge confesses. "But then I
thought about it and concluded that
I didn’t have the right to do any
such thing. I can’t say that I will be
able to make a great nose out of
him. That’s impossible. But of
course I hope that one day he too
will become the nose of Chanel.
Because for someone passionate
about perfumes, there really is no
better position in the world."
A sentiment with which the
great, late Mademoiselle Chanel
would no doubt concur wholeheart-
edly.
The main Web site of freelance
writer Jeremy Josephs is at
www.jeremyjosephs.com. Please
check there if you might be inter-
ested in engaging him as a writer.
Many of his articles are available
online.
 RUSSIAN REVOLUTION France and soon began paying and, after many years of ill health
T ILL THE
OF OCTOBER 1917 ERNEST had
exclusive fragrance contract with
attention to Jeanne Devolle the
younger sister of his landlord.
due to asthma, her mother became
very ill in the spring of 1895 and
the family of Tsar Nicholas II. However, in the spring of 1882 died at the age of thirty three.
Albert once more felt the urge to
Creator of the world famous fra- travel and left the area, leaving Until she was seventeen in 1900
grance Chanel # 5 in October of behind the nineteen year old Jeanne Gabrielle was educated at a convent
1921. Fifth of a series of five sam- who was by now pregnant. orphanage run by nuns at Aubazine
ples on May the fifth. and she spent a further two years at
Jeanne eventually tracked another convent school at Moulins.
The beginning Albert down in Aubenas and gave During her years at the convent
birth, in a public tavern, to Julia, Gabrielle became accomplished at
Although she was born at the Gabrielle’s older sister. Albert sewing, and during holidays spent
end of the nineteenth century, would not marry Jeanne, but she with her aunt Julia, who had a pas-
Chanel was to become one of the stayed with him and they were sion for hats, she learned the art of
most influential designers of the soon on the move again, this time millinery.
twentieth century. She was not to Saumur in the Auvergne. It was
influenced by previous fashion, but here, on August 19th, 1883, that Keeping her eyes and ears open
had entirely new ideas on how to Jeanne Gabrielle Chanel was born. she began to form her own opinion
make a woman look feminine. She was christened by the hospital of the sort of styles she preferred.
Dispensing with the frills and chaplain, and, years later, told the At twenty she began work as an
furbelows of the Edwardian era, story that a nun at her christening assistant in a shop selling
she brought in a clean, uncluttered named her Bonheur, though there is trousseaux and layettes (wedding
look that was to become the basis no documentation to prove this. outfits and baby wear) and every-
for much of the haute couture day clothes for girls and ladies.
design in the following decades. Gabrielle’s parents were at last Moulins was a garrison town and
married in July 1884, and contin- the tailors' shops were always busy.
Her father, Albert Chanel, was ued their wandering life, some- Gabrielle found a job in one of
an itinerant market trader, moving times with the children and some- these as a seamstress, but her
from place to place as the fancy times leaving them behind with evenings were spent enjoying life
took him. In the winter of 1881 he anyone who was willing. By now with the officers, who showed her
found lodgings in Courpiere, there were several more children the sights and took her to night-

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clubs.
Always on the look out for
something different, Gabrielle
became a singer at La Rotunde,
where, in her husky voice, she sang
“Ko Ko Ri Ko” and “Who’s seen
Coco in the Trocadero?”. From that
time she became know as “Coco”,
which remained with her through-
out her life.
In 1906 she moved to Vichy,
hoping to establish a singing career
there, but her voice did not suit the
owner of the biggest nightclub and
all she could do was to sew the
dresses for the other artistes such as
Mystingette. Disillusioned, she
returned to Moulins.
She found nothing here for her
either and later that year eagerly
accepted the suggestion by Etienne
Balsan, an old admirer, that she live
with him in his Chateau de
Royallieu. Although not yet accept-
ed by the society ladies who visited
the chateau, Gabrielle became an
accomplished horse rider and was
one of the first women to wear rid-
ing breeches. In order not to give
the appearance of being a kept
woman she always wore very plain,
strictly tailored clothes, with a
boater. Soon becoming bored with
a life filled with horses and card
playing, she began to create hats for
her friends.
At this time in 1909, at the age
of 26, she became friendly with an
Englishman Arthur Capel, nick-
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named “Boy”, who was one of
Etienne’s friends. He encouraged
her to extend her expertise and, at
Etienne’s suggestion, Gabrielle was
installed in the ground floor apart-
ment at 160 boulevard Malesherbes
in Paris where Etienne had con-
ducted his liaisons. Here she made
and sold millinery to society
women and soon had a staff of
three.
Chanel aged 27
It became clear in 1910 that the
premises were much too small and
Gabrielle tried to persuade Etienne
to give her a loan to buy her own
premises, but he refused. Arthur
Capel had, by this time, become
very important to her and he lent
her the money to buy a shop at 21
rue Cambon. Her fame was spread-
ing and photographs of her cre-
ations were appearing in the fash-
ionable magazines. Little by little
Arthur introduced new interests
into her life. She became interested
in dancing, meeting Isadora
Duncan and her bohemian friends.
But Gabrielle never really enjoyed
their way of life and she soon aban-
doned them. She became more fond
of “Boy” Capel and her circle of
friends became more cosmopolitan,
with singers, artists and actors all
being part of the set who regularly
visited Etienne’s chateau de
Royallieu. It was here, in 1911, that
she met Gabrielle Dorziat, a well
known actress. The two became
friends and in 1912 “Coco” Chanel
made two hats for Dorziat’s appear-
645
ance in Maupassant's play "Bel
Ami" at the Vaudeville theatre in
Paris. The hats were of straw, with
wide brims turned up on one side.
Dorziat later modelled the hats for
photographs in “Les Modes”.
Everyone spent the summer in
the fashionable resort of Deauville.
In the summer of 1914 with talk of
war in the air the atmosphere was
more hectic than ever, and
Gabrielle took advantage of this by
opening a shop on the rue Goutaut,
once more financed by Arthur
Capel. Her logo was painted on a
white awning above the shop, the
word Chanel in black lettering.
This time she was selling clothes as
well as millinery and could be seen
around town in her masculine, tai-
lor made clothes, setting the trend
for the future. The unusual couple
captured the imagination of the car-
icaturist Sem who illustrated sever-
al publications with models by the
“very chic” Chanel. Gabrielle had
by now discovered that displaying
clothes on a live model had many
advantages, and could be seen with
her aunt Adrienne promenading on
the pier, displaying her designs for
all the fashionable ladies to see.
Arthur Capel was a very suc-
cessful businessman and a keen
polo player. Gabrielle hoped to set-
tle down with him, but he was often
away on business and was usually
seen in the company of other
women. Immersing herself in her
work, Gabrielle launched her first
Chanel suit. A sailor blouse in tri-
cot material over an open necked charge, Gabrielle returned to Paris. her time with her men friends.
shirt and a skirt which was straight Here they made the clothes for
but loose enough to walk in and just Biarritz and, when necessary, sent When she was 36 years old, in
showing the feet. A plain straw hat personnel to help with the extra October 1919 Chanel became regis-
completed the outfit, a combination work. With three hundred people tered as a coutourière and moved
that she had been wearing for some working for her in 1916 she found further along the same street in
time, but which everyone now that she was able to repay her debts Paris; 31 rue Cambon was to
wanted to wear as a change from to Arthur Capel, much to his sur- remain the House of Chanel for the
the figure hugging fashion of the prise. rest of her life.
day.
Whilst looking for a new knitted Even though he was married
World War I fabric to resemble tricot, Gabrielle Capel still sought out Gabrielle
found a manufacturer who had when he was in Paris. But all this
At the outbreak of war in 1914 made a knitted, woollen material was to come to an abrupt end. On
Deauville became deserted as called jersey. This material was December 21st, 1919 Arthur Capel
everyone rushed back home. Capel, generally used for gentlemen's was driving to Cannes for
ever the businessman, persuaded underwear but he found that his Christmas when he was involved in
Gabrielle to stay. His hunch was clients did not like the beige colour. a fatal accident. As soon as she
correct as, on returning to the resort To his surprise she bought his entire heard the news Gabrielle insisted
having lost their clothes in the war, stock and made herself an unfitted on being driven to the scene of the
customers found that Chanel was redingote reaching halfway down accident to pay her last respects.
the only shop left open. Times were the skirt. It was an immediate suc- For a while she was inconsolable,
changing. The society ladies decid- cess. but she had the businesses to run
ed to go bathing, dressed in bathing and life must go on.
costumes designed by Chanel, with Meanwhile Chanel’s fame was
wide, knee length bloomers. spreading. One of the dresses from Branching out
her Biarritz collection was copied
Capel had been posted to in America and appeared in Capel had left Gabrielle £40,000 in
London but still lived in Paris. Harper's bazaar in 1916. In France his will and, three months after his
Before his departure he took it was to be 1920 before anyone death, she moved into a new villa at
Gabrielle to Biarritz, another very made a copy of any of her clothes. Garches. Her sense of colour and
fashionable resort. Seeing the They did, however, copy her hair style were reflected in the colours
potential for a much larger business style which she had cut short in she chose for the exterior, beige
he advanced the money for yet 1917. stucco with black lacquered shut-
another new venture. This time ters.
they opened a maison de couture in That year was to prove a diffi-
a villa near the Casino, the Villa cult one for Gabrielle as Arthur So began a new era in Chanel’s
Larralde on rue Gardères, selling Capel decided that the time had life, full of painters, composers and
dresses for 3000 francs. come for him to marry into the dancers. Her friend Misia Sert, a
English aristocracy. She pretended pianist of some renown, had a large
By July 1915 the Biarritz house not to mind, but was deeply unhap- circle of friends in the theatrical
had more than sixty employees and, py about it. To cover her distress world, and it was she who intro-
leaving her sister Antoinette in she rented a villa where she spent duced Gabrielle to this exciting and

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invigorating environment. in that year Chanel’s most success- The perfume was an immediate
ful product was created; the per- success and, though other manufac-
Misia decided that Gabrielle fume Chanel No. 5. turers tried to produce copies, no
needed to have a complete change one was able to capture it exactly
from her work and the things that Chanel 5 perfume and Chanel No. 5 remained the
reminded her of Capel, so she and favourite. Parfums Chanel was
her husband took her with them to Until this time all perfumes had founded in 1924, run by Pierre and
Venice. Here they met Serge been based on natural flower fra- Paul Wertheimer, and with Ernest
Diaghilev, who was having desper- grances. These were very concen- Beaux as its technical director.
ate financial problems. Having trated essences but once in use the
been sponsored by the Romanovs perfume quickly evaporated and Dmitri, or his Russian ancestry,
before the uprising, he needed a faded. Dmitri had grown up in the was to be the inspiration for a fur-
backer for a new production of “Le Russian court where perfumes were ther innovation that year. Gabrielle
Sacre de Printemps” to be staged by used in large quantities. He was had introduced embroidery into
the Ballets Russes in Paris, but acquainted with Ernest Beaux, a some of her garments as early as
could see no prospect of finding the perfume chemist at Grasse, the cen- 1916, but after the war embroidery
money. Gabrielle listened and said tre of the perfume industry. So it became very popular and she
nothing, but on returning to Paris happened that Gabrielle too became experimented with a black rubash-
she visited Diaghilev at his hotel acquainted with Ernest Beaux and ka blouse, embroidered on the cuffs
and handed him the money he the idea for her own perfume and collar, worn over a straight
required, on condition that he told evolved. This was to be based, not skirt. The idea was so popular that
no one. However his private secre- on flower essences, but on eighty an embroidery workshop was set
tary knew, and it was he who, much different ingredients, creating a up, with the Grand Duchess Maria,
later, told the world of this gener- more stable base and a distinctive Dmitri’s sister, in charge, using
ous gift. Gabrielle’s home at abstract perfume and could also be machines to embroider intricate
Garches also became a refuge for used in smaller quantities. patterns on a wide variety of gar-
Igor Stravinsky, the composer, who Gabrielle left the mixing of the ments. Fur, another favourite of
with his wife and four children had ingredients to Ernest Beaux, but Chanel’s, was used to line a full
returned from Switzerland in order she made the final decisions about length cloak, giving a distinctly
to become French citizens. the finished product, sampling it Russian air to the collection. Many
several times before deciding on of the models and saleswomen in
The summer of 1920 found the perfume that she thought the salon were also Russian, and
Gabrielle once more in Biarritz. reflected the image she wanted to they, in turn, brought their Russian
Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich was portray. Even the bottle was a total- friends as clients.
also on holiday, and it soon became ly new concept, moving away from
clear that they were very attracted the elaborate, frivolous designs of At the end of the year Gabrielle
to each other, even though he was other manufacturers to a sharp cor- and Dmitri parted company and he
eleven years younger than she was. nered cube, in which the perfume married an American, but he and
A member of the Romanov family, was visible through the glass. The Gabrielle remained firm friends.
he had been treated as a son by the label was also devoid of ornament, The villa at Garches was also sold
tsar, but he had survived the war in plain white, with the words “No. and Gabrielle moved back to 29,
and now had very little money. 5 Chanel” printed in black. Faubourg St. Honoré in Paris. Her
They lived together for a year, and theatrical friends were soon filling

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the apartment with their singing
and dancing, much to the annoy-
ance of the neighbours, but
Gabrielle shrugged off their com-
plaints. Picasso, Stravinsky and
Diaghilev were all to be found
there, pursuing their particular
interests.
For several years after this
Gabrielle was involved in a tempes-
tuous love affair with Pierre
Reverdy, a struggling poet, with a
wife patiently waiting at home.
Even after their final separation in
1926 he was to continue to dedicate
his poems to Gabrielle, and she
owned the first editions of his com-
plete works, as well as a priceless
copy of “Cravates de chanvre”, by
Reverdy, with original water colour
illustrations by Picasso.
It was Jean Cocteau who asked
Gabrielle to design the costumes
for his production of “Antigone” at
the newly opened Atelier Theatre in
Paris. In December 1922, at the
age of thirty nine, Chanel was to
become as famous for her theatrical
costumes as for her haute couture
collections. The stage sets were
designed by Picasso, with music by
Arthur Honegger, using the oboe
and the harp. Taking the theme
from Greek vase paintings, both
Chanel and Picasso created an
authentic Greek atmosphere for the
play. Antigone was dressed in a
long, tunic dress in white wool,
decorated with brown bands, over
which she wore a woollen cloak
patterned in brown. Picasso also
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used the Greek vase as his inspira- The 1925 Arts Decoratifs
tion, thus bringing together the cos- Exhibition in Paris brought togeth-
tumes and the sets. er the architecture, furniture and
fashion of the time, with the pavil-
In 1924 Cocteau’s “Le Train ion of elegance displaying the
Bleu”, portraying tennis, golf and gowns of Boulanger, Lanvin, Patou
swimming on the Riviera, opened and Chanel. The Art Deco style
at the Champs-Elysées Theatre in was nothing new for Chanel, who
Paris, with costumes by Chanel, had been creating the smooth,
and stage curtain by Picasso. With almost masculine look for several
Anton Dolin and Bronislava years. To be chic all frills and
Nijinska in the starring roles, the fussiness must be eliminated, even
costumes provided a challenge for the hair styles were short, smooth
Gabrielle, who had to make sure and slicked back. The era of mass
that the clothes she designed production had also arrived, some-
allowed the dancers to perform thing which caused most designers
somersaults as well as conventional to start law suits against the firms
dance movements. The first copying their garments. Chanel,
designs, tried on for the first time at however, took all this in her stride
the dress rehearsal, were something and decided to go along with the
of a disaster, with the dancers com- trend, creating fashion for every-
plaining that the costumes did not one, not just for the select few who
fit and restricted their movements. could afford it. The “little black
Frantic alterations were made and dress” displayed in “Vogue” in
on the opening night the costumes 1926 was a typical Chanel style, in
were a triumph. Once more Chanel black crepe de chine, tight fitting
was influencing fashion with her on the hips, with no collar and long,
thigh length, knitted bathing dress- straight sleeves, soon became the
es with shorts just showing standard for the smart occasion.
beneath, worn with a skull cap and
earrings. Her tennis player’s outfit Costume jewellery was first
of white, loose-fitting, knee length introduced into the fashion world
dress and headband, soon became by Paul Poiret and in 1924 Chanel
the rage in fashionable circles, and decided to open a jewellery work-
no one was seen on the beach shop with Comte Etienne de
unless they were wearing the Beaumont as manager. Imitation
Chanel bathing dress. jewellery that looked like the real
thing became part of the fashion-
The collaboration between able woman's wardrobe. The twin-
Chanel and Cocteau lasted for four- set and pearls look was created.
teen years, from 1923 to 1937, and The jeweller Madame Gripoux
with each production a new fashion made the imitation pearls and glass
emerged. beads for the Chanel collections.
648
The Duke di Verdura, who joined
Chanel in 1927 as a textile design-
er, later created some of the most
unusual pieces of jewellery for her
collections.
The Final Phase
On a trip to Monte Carlo in the
autumn of 1925 Gabrielle was
introduced to the Duke of
Westminster, who immediately
became enchanted with her. But
she was not so easily persuaded that
he should become a large part of
her life. She did not want to give
up her independence and move to
England, away from her circle of
friends. However, slowly but sure-
ly, the Duke persuaded her to try
the English way of life and she
began to spend more time with him
at his various homes and on his
yachts. Although he had already
been married twice, the Duke had
no heir, which made Gabrielle think
that perhaps she could be the moth-
er of the future Duke; but at the age
of forty six the odds were stacked
against it.
The years spent mixing with the
English aristocracy became appar-
ent in the designs for her collec-
tions. 1926 to 1931 was considered
to be the English period, with
sports jackets, waistcoats and shirts
in the masculine style. But the
Chanel touch was always there, this
time using jewellery with simple
cardigans or sweaters in a way that
no Englishwoman had ever done.
The affair with the Duke was to be
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as short lived as the rest, and by
1929 he was looking round for a
new wife. Gabrielle, not without a
struggle, resigned herself to the
situation and returned to Paris to
take up her old life and her old
friends. She did, however keep her
contacts in England.
But once again fate intervened
and a new phase began.
Depression had hit the United
States of America and Samuel
Goldwyn, the movie mogul, decid-
ed that one way to help women to
forget the misery was to produce
films depicting a different way of
life. A famous dress designer must
be found to produce memorable
clothes. That designer had to be
Gabrielle Chanel. His stars were to
wear Chanel styles both on and off
screen, and he was prepared to pay
Chanel one million dollars for the
pleasure of going to Hollywood
twice a year with her designs.
Misia, as so often, was her com-
panion on the triumphal entry into
Hollywood in April 1931, where
they were greeted by many of the
top movie stars. Gloria Swanson
was to star in the film “Tonight or
Never” and Gabrielle was asked to
design her wardrobe. This proved
harder than expected as Miss
Swanson was pregnant, and at each
fitting the clothes became tighter,
causing Gabrielle to urge Miss
Swanson to lose weight and not
wear a girdle, which showed
beneath the sheer fabric. However,
with the usual Chanel creativity, a
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selection of clothes was produced,
including a bias cut evening gown
in black satin and a suit that was
also in a style much loved by
Chanel, with a fitted waist and wide
revers, worn with a white blouse.
The public loved the clothes but
the Hollywood stars did not want
clothes designed exclusively by
one person. Gabrielle would not
put up with all the arguments and
released herself from the contract,
leaving Samuel Goldwyn to find
another designer.
Fashionable clothes were
becoming more accessible to the
general public. Early in 1932
Gabrielle was invited by a British
textile firm to design a range of
clothes using cotton materials. She
used cotton lawn, muslin and
organdie to great effect for ball
gowns and clothes for the races.
One of the notable fashion events
of the year was held at the Duke of
Westminster’s London apartments,
where over a hundred Chanel cre-
ations, using British materials,
were modelled by her friends. All
the designs were able to be copied,
and the charity event was attended
by manufacturers from all over the
world.
Chanel costume jewellery, par-
ticularly pearls, was now a part of
the fashionable womanÕs
wardrobe, but Gabrielle now had
other ideas. Her salon became a
fortress, guarded by alarms, for she
was about to launch an exhibition
of real jewellery. The exhibition, in
November, 1932, was not open to
the public, but to prominent people
in the jewellery trade, who paid for
the privilege of seeing her unique
new creations. The proceeds were
to to be divided between two chari-
ties. Her aim, she claimed was to
provide employment for the crafts-
men at such a difficult time. Wide
bracelets that could be split up and
worn separately, and necklaces
covering the shoulders, which were
a work of art in themselves, caused
quite a stir.
A new influence had entered
Gabrielle’s life. Paul Iribarnegaray,
Iribe to his friends, became her
constant companion and moved
into her house on the Faubourg. It
was rumoured that they were to be
married, but he still had a wife.
Over the next three years Gabrielle
began to lean more and more on
Iribe, leaving him to fight her legal
battles, of which there were many.
However, a particularly nasty inci-
dent outside her apartments, in the
Spring of 1934, when the Fascists
tried to take over the city, made
Gabrielle decide to leave the
Faubourg. Dismissing all her staff
except her personal maid, she took
her furniture and moved, with Iribe,
to the Ritz hotel.
A Classic Chanel Suit
The summer was spent at the
villa on the Riviera, but the world
was changing, and by the next year
Hitler was gaining prominence in
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Germany, which was to have an in the creations of others”.
effect on all their lives.
These years were to be some of
Gabrielle and Iribe were spend- the worst of her life, but she was
ing the summer of 1935 as usual at persuaded to design the costumes
the villa. A game of tennis had for Cocteau's play “Oedipe Roi”,
been arranged, but, just as Gabrielle starring Jean Marais. The costumes
arrived, Iribe collapsed with a heart were indeed very strange, resem-
attack and died soon afterwards. At bling rolls of bandage draped round
the age of fifty two Gabrielle was the actors, or heavy, outdated dress-
once more alone. Misia, still her es and bonnets. Needless to say
closest friend, tried to comfort her, press and public were scathing in
but to no avail, and Gabrielle their condemnation.
returned to Paris in the Autumn,
once more to immerse herself in With one last effort, Chanel
work. made a comeback with her red,
white and blue gypsy dresses of
But worse was to come with the 1939, before the outbreak of war
great strike of 1936, when all the forced her to make a momentous
workers in the city went on strike decision. She was closing down
for better conditions and better pay. the workrooms and salons, only the
The employees at the house of boutique, selling accessories and
Chanel joined the strike, and locked perfume, would remain open. She
the doors against Gabrielle. could not be persuaded to change
Dressed in a classic Chanel suit, her mind, though the trade union
she tried to argue with them but and staff tried their best.
they would not listen. Inevitably
she had to give in to their demands, After a short time in seclusion,
or the business she had spent so Gabrielle once more came back to
long building up would cease to Paris where she was offered a small
exist. room at the Ritz. After the closure
of her salons she had told everyone
The threat of war hovered over how poor she was, but, in fact, she
the world, but the Exposition des was a wealthy woman and the sales
Arts et Techniques was held in of perfume and accessories never
Paris in 1937, and Gabrielle took faltered. She still had an apartment
every opportunity to be seen wear- above the shop, and here she
ing her own creations. A crystal brought a German officer, Hans
plate designed by Chanel and Gunther von Dincklage, after their
engraved with a pair of scissors cut- fateful meeting in 1941. Spatz, as
ting into a piece of material, held he was called, was thirteen years
the inscription “I used these scis- younger than Gabrielle, who was
sors to cut all that was superfluous now fifty six, but, always dressed in
650
civilian clothes, he seemed happy
to merge into the background.
Their affair lasted until 1944. After
being arrested and held briefly by
the “Clean up Committee”
Gabrielle decided that the time had
come to move to Lausanne in
Switzerland.
For years Chanel had been fight-
ing the Wertheimer brothers over
the rights to manufacture her per-
fumes. Never having actually
signed a permanent contract with
them, she had never accepted that
she was being treated fairly.
However, in 1947, they finally
came to an agreement, giving
Gabrielle a two per cent royalty on
gross sales worldwide, plus other
benefits. After all the years of
wrangling she was satisfied, as, at
that time this represented one mil-
lion dollars per year.
to be beaten, she continued to
design, and little by little she made
her mark once more on women’s
fashion, helped by increased sales
in the United States.
She carried on, working herself
to exhaustion, going across the road
to her room at the Ritz for a few
hours troubled sleep, then returning
to her cutting and fitting with
renewed vigour. But on January
10, 1971, she went to her room and,
lying on her single bed, with her
maid beside her, she quietly died, at
the age of eighty eight.

Gabrielle watched in dismay as

male designers such as Dior began
to dress women in figure restricting
clothes once more. She had spent
so many years designing easy fit-
ting styles, which flattered the
female figure. In 1953 she could no
longer stand the inactivity and
began to design a new collection.
On the 5th of February 1954, at the
age of seventy-one, she once more
opened her Paris salon with a col-
lection based on her previous best
selling styles; the simple, collarless
Chanel suit with skirt just skim-
ming the knee, nothing frivolous or
fussy. The press were cruel in their
castigation, but Gabrielle was not

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T HE RUMOURS
BEFORE THE
BEGAN
CHANEL women's
wear show last month in Paris.
DAYS
Press photographers would not be
admitted unless they wore black
suits and white shirts; Nicole
Kidman, the "face" of the house's
perfume, Chanel No 5, was com-
ing; Karl Lagerfeld, the house's
designer, had convinced a bevy of
famous 1980s models to come out
of retirement.
The rumours were all true, and
when the black and white-clad pho-
tographers saw Ms Kidman, there
was such a frenzy on the catwalk
that the paparazzi started to tumble
off the catwalk.
It was a frightening end to a
slick show and it was staged. The
"crazed-photographer" stunt had
been set up by Mr Lagerfeld to
publicise the new ad campaign for
Chanel No 5, which centres on a
"commercial" - if you can call it
that - directed by Moulin Rouge
director Baz Luhrmann, starring
Ms Kidman, and lasting almost
three minutes (if you include the
credits). When it debuts on
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American TV screens on Thursday
and the rest of the world over the
next month, it may well change the
direction of luxury goods advertis-
ing. It certainly shows the advertis-
ers' recognition that it needs to
change.
"It is clearly no longer enough
to just have an attitude and show a
picture; you have to attach an emo-
tional story to that," says Carol
Potter, a global business director of
J. Walter Thompson. "That is a
global trend but it is especially
acute when it comes to luxury
goods, because with luxury goods
you are paying to feel special you
need that personal connection."
Carolyn Carter, president and
chief executive of Grey Global
Group, says: "Every target group is
becoming more resistant to the tra-
ditional advertising methods, so
brands have to look at different
ways to move people. This is evi-
denced in the migration to other
strategies like product placement in
films, direct marketing and spon-
sorship."
652
Chanel is just the latest and
most dramatic example of a trend
toward alternative marketing that
started with luxury's courting of the
celebrity spokesperson.
Louis Vuitton has not only pro-
duced limited edition handbags in
collaboration with painters ranging
from Stephen Sprouse to Takashi
Murakami, but has also recently
donated an Olivier Debré stage cur-
tain to the Hong Kong Opera, and
next week unveils new Christmas
windows in all 322 stores designed
by the artist Ugo Rondinone.
MaxMara, the Italian fashion
house, also recently announced its
sponsorship of the MaxMara Art
Prize for Women. Ms Carter says:
"They are not selling the products,
they are selling an image and an
attitude attached to that image."
The new press ad campaign
from Brioni, the luxury menswear
label, does not feature a suit, or
even a man, but instead features an
architectural shot of a Falcon
900EX plane. Black and white and
stylised, it is meant to convey the
ephemeral "values" of Brioni:
power, technology, leadership,
speed, travel, design elegance, says
chief executive Umberto Angeloni.

When Chanel artistic director

Jacques Helleu first approached Mr
Luhrmann about making the film,
the director told him: "I have no
real experience (of making an ad)
but what I can make you is a trailer
for a movie that has never actually
been made, that is not about
No, 5 but in which No. 5 is the
touchstone."

Marianne Etchebarne, interna-

tional marketing director of Chanel
fragrances, says: "This campaign
launches at a time when the market
is more and more promotionally
oriented.However, No. 5 is the
benchmark of the market, and this
new campaign will be the strongest
to date in terms of making all
women dream about No. 5."

The short "film" is a quick-cut

version of a love story that tells a
tale of the most famous woman in
the world (Kidman), who flees a
horde of paparazzi and jumps into a
taxi where she meets a young writer
(Brazilian star Rodrigo Santoro) so
immersed in his own world that he
does not know who she is. They
share a lost weekend in his garret
before she acknowledges her
responsibilities and returns to the
outside world.

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 AKE A CLASSIC PERFUME, ADD
T AN ACCLAIMED ACTRESS, AN
EXOTIC YOUNG ACTOR and an inno-
vative film director, and what do
you get? The renewed spirit of
Chanel No.5. Majorie Chew finds
out what goes into the making of
the Chanel ad video.
writer who falls in love with
Kidman. As one of the world’s
most celebrated actresses, Kidman,
plays the role of the “most famous
woman in the world”. Young and
charming Brazilian actor Rodrigo
Santoro plays a struggling writer
who falls in love with Kidman.
They share a romantic moment,
locked in a kiss and embrace, be-
fore reality accosts her in the form
of a man in the shadows. She must
choose between love and responsi-
bility. Together, they realise she
must return to the world from
which she came.

Destiny has a way of introduc- The story is set in a mythical Fulfilling her destiny, she
ing people. A chance meeting. A metropolis where a mysterious and makes a glamorous appearance at a
shared gaze. Love at first sight – in
beautiful woman runs out of her spectacular public appearance. A
a taxi. Imagine two souls crossing limousine and into the traffic of the changed soul. Full of poise and
paths in busy New York. imaginary Times Square. She confidence. As she climbs the
escapes the paparazzi and the grand staircase to glory, in a burst
In the spirit of the legendary screaming fans, and plunges into of paparazzi flashbulbs, she feels
Chanel No.5 comes a stunning the heart of neon and noise. the young man’s presence across
romantic fantasy, an urban fairy the river. She stops.
tale written, directed and produced She leaps into a taxi, which
by Baz Luhrmann (director of already has a young male passen- She catches sight of the silhou-
Moulin Rouge, 2001). It is a new ger in the back seat. Their eyes ette of the Chanel sign. They con-
advertising film that casts Nicole meet. nect for a moment. They share the
Kidman as the new face of Chanel memory they will never forget. She
No.5. “Just drive,” she orders the cab- turns back, a stronger person, no
bie. longer running from her responsi-
Nicole Kidman and Rodrigo Before long, the pair is cavort- bility but walking confidently
Santoro in Chanel No.5 the Film ing on the rooftop of the young towards it.
which was shot on location in man’s apartment. There is an enor-
Sydney. Kidman takes on the role mous globe-lit double-C sign in the The young man remembers her
of the most famous woman in the form of a crescent moon with the kiss. Her smile. Her perfume.
world while charming Brazilian mythical city skyline in the dis-
actor Santoro plays a struggling tance. Nicole Kidman and Jacques

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Helleu, artistic director of Chanel,
on the set of the advertising film. A
unique white gold and diamond
necklace was made for Kidman: a
long flowing ribbon that falls down
to the bottom of her back, ending
with a No.5
The stuff of dreams. Chanel
No.5.
This is a tale of stolen love,
haute couture, fine jewellery and
fragrance coming together in one
unforgettable production. The com-
mercial – a two-minute film – was
shot in five days in Sydney. It is the
latest Kidman-Luhrmann collabo-
ration, a creative relationship that
began 10 years ago.
The making of No.5 advertising film
Artistic director of Chanel
Jacques Helleu, who guarded and
nurtured the image of Chanel No.5
for 30 years, started thinking about
the new Chanel No.5 advertising
film in 2002, according to informa-
tion provided by Chanel.
If you have to tell the story,
No.5 is an absolute legend, he says.
This film, he feels, evokes a meet-
ing, a passionate love.
Helleu knew Kidman was per-
fect for this role. When he saw
Moulin Rouge, he was impressed
by “her absolutely incredible power
of seduction”.
During the concept stage,
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Helleu recalls that Luhrmann told days, the preparation was “enor-
him that he would make a film, not mous”.
an advertisement. He gave
Luhrmann total freedom to create Karl Lagerfeld, one of the icon-
magic on the screen. And waited to ic masters of the fashion world,
be “amazed”. specially designed five beautiful
haute couture dresses for Kidman.
Luhrmann chose to tell a story Her first dress was a pink cloud of
depicting the kind of woman who 120m of tulle tapered by numerous
wears the legendary perfume. His seamstresses to fit every curve of
childhood memories of Chanel her perfect body.
No.5 include a flash of black-and-
white footage; Marilyn Monroe A unique white gold and dia-
answering “Chanel No.5” when mond necklace was also made for
asked by the Press what she wore in Kidman: a long flowing ribbon that
bed; the beautiful Catherine falls down to the bottom of her
Deneuve with a French accent on back, ending with a No.5. Three
television talking about her lovers. people from the Chanel jewellery
department travelled to Australia to
“As I was growing up, it was adjust this amazing piece of jew-
accepted that a glamorous woman ellery; the only obvious reference
drank champagne, got laid, jetted to the fragrance in this film.
off to romantic locations and wore
Chanel,” he says. What’s the advertising impact of the
film?
Helleu says: “Luhrmann is a
true artist who was able to give a Helleu concedes that the
cinematographic wholeness to the strength of the film comes from the
entire production with a true talent of Luhrmann and Kidman,
rhythm, characters, and a very spe- from their extraordinary ability to
cial atmosphere, and all of this in a make a film that lasts only a few
context that draws attention. seconds with the same profession-
alism required for a full-length
“The action happens in a film.
metropolis that resembles New
York, but it was all filmed in Helleu explains: “From the
Australia. I was struck by the preci- very beginning, I was guided by the
sion of Luhrmann, this direction same obsession to reveal feminine
down to the least detail, the details seduction in all of its facets, to
of the street which give a dramatic show the incarnation of this seduc-
intensity to the action.” tion above all.
Although the shoot lasted five “While the advertising of No.5
655
is based on breaking away and
doing something different, there’s a
spirit that remains: you shouldn’t
hold onto an image, a pure illustra-
tion, but rather focus on a character,
an attitude.”

How is Kidman emblematic of

Chanel No.5?

At the climax of the story,

Kidman looks back at her lover: a
necklace drapes her bare back. A
total of 687 diamonds form the
iconic number 5.

Created in 1921, No.5 has kept

all of its seduction and mystery.
The best-selling fragrance in the
world is composed of ylang-ylang
from the Comoro Islands, jasmine
from Grasse and May rose a true
olfactory symphony.

And so the legend of Chanel

No.5 lives on.

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 KIDMAN'S
N ICOLE
SCREEN APPEARANCE
MIERES ON TELEVISION
LATEST
PRE-
tomorrow
night. She's in something called No
5, directed by Baz Luhrmann. But
it's only three minutes long and it is
an advertisement - the biggest,
poshest, shiniest advertisement
ever - for Chanel perfume. No 5
was unveiled to the UK's cultural
observers last week who were duly
provoked and intrigued by the
audacity of this art-commerce
crossover. Could this be the screen
equivalent of Fay Weldon writing a
novel sponsored by Bulgari?
Catwalk queen ... Nicole
Kidman giving her three
minutes to Chanel's £18m
commercial
No 5 is basically a mini-
Notting Hill or micro-Roman
Holiday, with any vestige of
humour utterly expunged. Nicole
plays a lonely megastar who, mad-
dened by the pressures of fame,
impetuously scrambles out of her
limo and into a cab with that bloke
from Love Actually who doesn't
quite get off with Laura Linney.
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She has a platonic bohemian
moment with him on a rooftop,
behind an illuminated Chanel logo.
"Who are you?" he gasps. "I'm a
dancer!" she replies, snuggling up
to him with a few razzle-dazzle
moves. But then a solemn old
geezer appears and says she must
go back. (Who's he when he's at
home? Her manager? Her dad? The
building's janitor? All three?) So
Nicole dutifully resumes her
celebrity vocation, floating up to a
red-carpet premiere, surrounded by
giant, faintly Stalinesque pictures
of herself, while her amour
breathes in voiceover about what a
precious fleeting moment it was:
"Her kiss ... Her smile ... Her per-
fume."
And her stonking fee. Nicole's
price-tag (£2m), along with Baz's,
contributed mightily to the reported
£18m cost. But director and star
interestingly signal that they have
not diminished their Hollywood
status by taking the Chanel
shilling. This they achieve by the
pairing itself, reminding us of their
last collaboration, the unimpeach-
ably successful and classy Moulin
657
Rouge. The ad moreover finishes
with a preposterous and inter-
minable roll of movie-style credits,
which go on about half as long as
the ad itself, detailing everyone
from the director to the set runner.
Of course, the humblest Tesco
advert could give a list of credits if
it chose. But this is to tell us (and
tell us and tell us and tell us) that
they are artists and not hucksters.
No 5 is not an ad, it seems, but a
celebrity-enriched piece of exqui-
site corporate art that celebrates
luxury goods as well as flogging
them.
Of course, commercials are get-
ting slicker, smarter, wittier, invest-
ing in the highest possible produc-
tion values, to match the fact that
upscale shows such as The West
Wing and The Sopranos are regard-
ed with as much awe as movies.
Some of the biggest Hollywood
names started life in ads. Return
traffic is rarer, though companies
attach big-name directors to their
projects like brand labels. Without
their name actually appearing
onscreen, however, their participa-
tion has to be advertised externally
to the advertisement itself. movies offer product placements.
But the caste divide between ads
Nike got Spike Lee to direct and movies remains as strong as
their spots, and three years ago ever.
BMW commissioned a series of
short car-chase movies which could
only be accessed on the internet,
directed by names like Tony Scott,
John Woo, John Frankenheimer,
Ang Lee, Wong Kar-wai, Guy
Ritchie and Alejandro Gonzalez
Inarritu. Here again, the status-
transaction is tricky. These A-list
directors were attracted by the
money of course, but also by the
left-field wackiness of the web
angle: this made it exclusive, and
even experimental, different in kind
to the abject business of just crank-
ing out a commercial. Mercedes
followed up by hiring Michael
Mann to direct a cinema commer-
cial starring Benicio Del Toro.
Mann disguised it as a faux-trailer
for a non-existent movie in which
the brand was hardly mentioned.

Other actors do them of course.

B-lister Burt Reynolds does ads for
Dollond & Aitchison spectacles.
Higher up the food chain, Samuel L
Jackson does quirky commercials
for our own Barclays Bank, in
which the name of the product is
not permitted to soil his lips.
Jennifer Aniston does Barclaycard
TV ads, but has reportedly insisted
that they must not be used in the
US.

Grand as it is, Baz Luhrmann's

No 5 is part of all this. Hollywood
stars do ads, and Hollywood

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 hE WORLD'S MOST EXPENSIVE
T ADVERT, FOR THE WORLD'S MOST
FAMOUS PERFUME AND STARRING the
world's most glamorous woman, is
on your telly tonight.
Rumoured to have cost £5mil-
lion, the Chanel No. 5 commercial,
featuring Nicole Kidman, is being
promoted with teasing clips of the
four-minute extravaganza.
For the first time, Chanel have
shelled out for a star bigger than
the brand and an Oscar-nominated
director, Baz Lurhmann of Moulin
Rouge fame, for what is more a
mini-movie than a 30-second
promo.
Suitably enough, it can be seen
on Channel 4 during Moulin
Rouge, which stars Nicole and
starts at 9pm.
The advert follows the 'most
famous woman in the world',
Nicole, as she begins a passionate
love affair with an artist played by
gorgeous Brazilian star Rodrigo
Santoro. Set in a mythical metrop-
olis, the pair escape to the rooftops
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to get away from the limelight. But Deneuve, Ali McGraw, Jean
Nicole, said to have picked up
more than £1million for her part,
Shrimpton and Candice Bergman
all promoted the product.
has to return to the red carpet and
the awaiting paparazzi, glancing However, at the time none of
back wistfully at the rooftop garden them was as big a star as Nicole is
where her lover remains. Debussy's now.
Clair de Lune is the soundtrack for
a production oozing with style. But director Baz said: 'My
childhood memories of Channel
Nicole's costumes were No. 5 is of Catherine Deneuve,
designed by Karl Lagerfeld and looking beautiful onTV.
were hand-stitched in the Chanel
couture salon. 'It was accepted that a glam-
orous woman drank champagne,
The Aussie screen queen is jetted to romantic locations and
also decked out in £17million wore Chanel.'
worth of gems. Stylish, slick and
elegant, the advert is sure to secure And the new commercial will
her place as the world's most glam- not be the first Chanel ad to capture
orous woman.But she is not the the public's imagination with its
first celebrity to be associated with style and atmosphere. When super-
the famous French brand of model Estelle Warren became the
clothes, fragrances and cosmetics. face of Chanel No. 5 in the
Coco Chanel herself was the Nineties, the company produced an
first face of Chanel No. 5 when she unforgettable advert. Many remem-
launched the perfume in the ber the image of the beautiful
Twenties. women wandering through a long,
golden corridor in nothing but a
For decades, it was the most short Little Red Riding Hood cloak
popular scent in the world and gor- before stepping through ornate
geous women such as Catherine doors into city streets hushed by
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snowfall. Evangelista, Princess Caroline of
Monaco and, of course, Nicole, all
Most people can recall the eerie resplendent in Chanel.
music, from Edward Scissorhands,
the festive feel and the ending Nicole's Chanel dress at the
where a wolf howls at the moon, Oscars in 2002, before she was
even if they don't remember what employed by the company, was
the advert was for. hailed by many as the biggest fash-
ion success of the night.
Johnny Depp's wife,Vanessa
Paradis, is another beauty on con- Even pop princess Kylie
tract to Chanel. Minogue, more famed for her tiny
gold hot pants than classic chic, has
In an atmospheric advert for become a fan of the designer label
Chanel's Coco perfume,Vanessa is since taking up with her French
half-woman, half-exotic bird pos- boyfriend Olivier Martinez.
ing on a trapeze in a gilded cage,
dressed in nothing but fishnet Celebrities are desperate to be
stockings and feathers. associated with a brand synony-
mous with style and elegance. And
In a spooky finale, lightning where celebrities tread, ordinary
flashes and a male figure is silhou- people want to follow.
etted ghost-like against the stormy
sky. There is still a bottle of Chanel
No. 5 sold every 30 seconds and the
But apart from those who fragrance clocks up around £60mil-
worked for the company, there have lion in sales for the company every
been plenty of celebrities through year.
the years who loved to wear Chanel
products. But Chanel are not willing to
rest on their immaculately-styled
Hollywood icon Marilyn laurels.
Monroe famously said Channel No.
5 was the only thing she wore in They are hoping the new
bed. advert will make such an impres-
Modern-day diva Mariah sion that husbands and boyfriends
Carey apparently won't venture out across the world will feel it would
on the ski slopes unless she is be rude not to slip a bottle into their
dressed from head to toe in Chanel. other halves' stockings this
Christmas.
The company's launch of their
2005 collection last month was
attended by the likes of Linda

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 180 SECONDS, STARS fairy-tale romance." into "screenings" at the company's
I T LASTS
NICOLE KIDMAN, is directed by
Baz Luhrmann, cost Chanel $42 This is No 5: The Film, a three-
swish Bond Street offices.

million to make - and it's just pre- minute movie or the world's most "It differs from a traditional
miered. So what's it like? expensive advertisement, depend- advert in many respects," explains
ing on your stance. Chanel argues the publicist, smoothing the skirt on
Dashing .... Nicole Kidman in that it is "a creative first. The film her immaculate black-and-white
the three-minute to revolutionise advertising." outfit. "For a start, there aren't any
Chanel No 5 film. shots of a bottle of Chanel No 5.
At $42 million or $ 233,333 a The whole project was executed as
'It's a film, not an advert," the second it is certainly a first in terms a film."
Chanel publicist says, firmly. "As of budget. Miss Kidman's $4.7 mil-
he says himself, Baz Luhrmann lion fee alone is equal to the entire Certainly it bears the hallmarks
doesn't do adverts." cost of the Oscar-nominated 1995 of a Hollywood film. It is beautiful-
film Trainspotting. ly shot on high-gloss celluloid, has
As she speaks, she presses play costumes designed by Karl
on the DVD and Nicole Kidman Although shot in five days in Lagerfeld and a score by Debussy.
rushes gazelle-like into frame. She Sydney, Australia, No 5: The Film It reprises the successful partner-
turns to face the camera, her took "many more months to com- ship of Moulin Rouge!, which
alabaster skin flushed the same plete". Luhrmann directed, but this time
colour as her cascading gown, her Kidman plays the "most beautiful
eyes round with panic. Its premiere on Britain's and most famous woman in the
Channel Four at the weekend and world".
She is being pursued by in Australia last week was preced-
paparazzi in a cityscape lined with ed by advertisements - "Chanel As Mark Lawson, the presenter
billboards bearing her image. As invites you to a television premiere of Radio 4's Front Row, puts it:
the cameras close in, Kidman this evening at 9.20pm" - and was "You sense that Luhrmann was
ducks into a taxi to escape. even included in television listings. pushing at an open door when he
"Drive," she orders, breathless and The fuss surrounding the "film" has pitched that to her."
desperate, before turning to notice been such that journalists were
a sultry Brazilian beside her. The forced to sign confidentiality Kidman's character briefly
publicist whispers to me: "It's a agreements before being allowed escapes her pitiable lot after meet-

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ing Rodrigo Santoro, who plays in making this film Luhrmann is is a high-end product and a really
the man she meets in the taxi. In not fighting the tide of directors beautiful, glossy film makes sense
Luhrmann's words, he is "a young crossing from advertising to fea- for that product." It is, she adds,
Gabriel Garca Marquez" who lives tures, but joining the prestigious not a departure but thoroughly in
on the Lower East Side, reads ranks of other Hollywood auteurs. keeping with its previous cam-
Shakespeare, plays a guitar and Michael Mann, the director of paigns. "Their last No 5 advert,
types on an old-fashioned Olivetti. Heat, teamed up with Benicio Del with Estella Warren playing Little
Santoro's character doesn't know Toro for Mercedes-Benz in 2002 Red Riding Hood, was also a two-
who Kidman is (despite the bill- and Anthony Minghella, the direc- minute film."
boards) and she "lies", telling him: tor of The English Patient, directed
"I'm a dancer." a television campaign for Another advertising executive
Guinness. Before them, David argues that Chanel has gone to
To the strains of Debussy's Lynch and even Sir Alfred such lengths out of desperation to
Clair de Lune, the couple cavort Hitchcock have sullied their art for reposition No 5: "Its image has
on his rooftop garret, backdropped the adman's penny. slipped. It might be one of the
by an enormous double-C logo. biggest-selling scents in the world,
After four days, her secretary Lesley Ali, the creative direc- but it's considered to be the scent
appears as an apparition in their tor at WCRS advertising agency, you buy your mistress in the air-
bedroom: "You must return to the believes that by producing such a port or your grandma for her birth-
all-important event tomorrow," he big-budget advert, Chanel has not day."
tells Kidman, in faintly menacing gone against the grain but merely
tones. And so she does, embold- upped the ante in what has become In that way, Chanel has merely
ened, to face fame anew on life's a trend in the luxury-goods sector. revived an age-old policy: making
red carpet. Santoro is left wistful, its brand synonymous with
remembering only "her kiss, her "Ultimately, the film, like an Hollywood glamour.
smile, her perfume". It is a roman- advert, reflects what the product is
tic comedy without the comedy. and in that way it can't be called The scent, launched in 1921,
revolutionary," she says. "Any first scored this coup in 1954 when
The film finishes with one product needs to have its values it was allied with Marilyn Monroe.
minute of rolling credits - citing represented, whether it is a three- She claimed, with outrageous
make-up artists and riggers. It is minute film or a four-second spi- seductiveness, that all she wore to
followed by a 25-minute "making ral, it still has a brand value that it bed were: "A couple of drops of
of" documentary, complete with wants to project. If Chanel thinks Chanel No 5."
footage of Kidman giggling this validates its brand value to the
coquettishly with Lagerfeld during target market, that's great. If Later, Chanel repeated that
fittings in a London hotel room everyone did that formula, howev- success with the Catherine
and Luhrmann pitching what er, it wouldn't be exclusive, so I Deneuve, Ali MacGraw and
sounds like an entirely separate don't think it will revolutionise the Carole Bouquet.
movie about Coco Chanel at the face of advertising. It's just one
company headquarters in rue way of doing it. As for its status as a movie, No
Cambon, Paris. 5: The Film, has one serious flaw:
"Obviously a lot of thought has to squeeze into Britain's tight
Contrary to Chanel's argument, been put into this: they believe this advertising schedules over

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Christmas, it has been ruthlessly
cut to 30 seconds. "But it is still a
film," the spokesman insists. "It
retains the plot of the film, its just
an edited version."

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I ONCE HAD A CHANCE TO BUY A
COUTURE SUIT BY CHANEL that
was made sometime in the nine-
teen-fifties, her comeback years.
She had closed her maison de cou-
ture, on the Rue Cambon, when
war was declared in 1939, and
reopened it in 1954, when she
returned to France, at seventy-one,
from self-imposed exile in
Switzerland.
The stories of her attempts to
wrest control of Chanel Parfums
from her partners, the Wertheimer
family, by exploiting the Nazi race
laws, and of her startling offer to
Hitler’s secret police chief to bro-
ker a negotiated peace with her old
friend Winston Churchill a farcical
operation code-named Modellhut
(fashion hat) by Chanel’s S.S. han-
dlers have always somewhat damp-
ened her charm for me.
But the suit was a classic tweed
in opalescent pink, with flecks of
mauvish blue and a selvage trim, a
slightly flared skirt that grazed the
knee, and a boxy jacket with her
signature cropped sleeves and nar-
row armholes. The dealer who was
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selling it, a Frenchwoman, sized Wertheimer family, secretive patri-
me up literally before she let me try
it on. She had been keeping it under
cians who amassed a fortune in cos-
metics, owned the House of
wraps in her back room like a rare Chanel. For a few years, they did
piece of erotica, waiting for the nothing with it except to continue
right customer. to market the perfumes, and to pay
rent on a small boutique on the Rue
Except for the thrilling virtuos- Cambon, which sold accessories.
ity with which it is made, there is
very little sex appeal to a mid-cen- Eventually, they hired a new
tury Chanel suit. It is a convention- designer, who has since vanished
al and even dowdy uniform if one from the scene, and introduced a
wears it without some wink of line of ready-to-wear. In 1983, the
impiety. But it keeps faith with an president, Kitty D’Alessio, lured
enlightened notion that refuses to Karl Lagerfeld away from Chloé,
die, no matter how hard its adver- and made him the creative director.
saries the Versaces of the world try His mandate was to raise the profile
to kill it, and one which we owe of the brand and to rejuvenate
almost entirely to Chanel: that a which in the aggressive fashion cli-
woman is entitled to dress with the mate of the early eighties meant to
same dignity, comfort, and self- sex up and trick out the Chanel
possession as a man. style, and he did so with a bravura
or a brashness, depending on one’s
Chanel died in 1971, at the age point of view, that seemed to some
of eighty-seven, with no heirs critics and clients a betrayal of the
except a trusted manservant. She Chanel patrimony. But as Lagerfeld
left her estate to a foundation in began to define a creative identity
Liechtenstein, and, according to that was both separate from Chanel
Axel Madsen, the author of a thor- and consonant with his interpretive
ough biography, “A Woman of Her role as her steward, he reliably pro-
Own,” its value was estimated at duced superior collections.
thirty million dollars. By then, the
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 A new show of couture, ready-
to-wear, jewelry, accessories, and
toiletries by Chanel and Lagerfeld,
which opened at the Metropolitan
Museum on May 5th and runs until
August 7th, pays homage to
Chanel’s purism. It is curated by
Harold Koda and his associate,
Andrew Bolton, of the Met’s
Costume Institute. They have
mounted a number of exhibitions in
the claustrophobic basement where
couture is usually displayed, which
nevertheless captured the poetry of
fashion. This production involved
bigger interests and egos. It
received “extravagant support”
from its sponsor, Chanel, Inc.,
Koda told me, though he declined
to quantify it; “additional support”
from Condé Nast; and advice from
Lagerfeld, a man of imperious
opinions that he has never been shy
about expressing. (A Chanel show
planned five years ago by Koda’s
predecessor, the late Richard
Martin, was cancelled by mutual
agreement when the Met bridled at
Lagerfeld’s demands.) But this
time, Koda said at a press confer-
ence on the day of the annual
Costume Institute Ball, speaking in
the Great Hall of the museum,
“there couldn’t have been a show
without Karl’s interventions.” The
catalogue is a luxuriously pristine
example of the printer’s art, thanks
in part to Lagerfeld, who hand-tint-
ed the cover and the digitally
processed photographs.
The installation, elevated to the
Met’s main floor, was designed, on
Lagerfeld’s recommendation, by
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Olivier Saillard, a program director Chanel’s work makes her an elusive
at the Musée de la Mode et du subject. Her couture is easy to find
Textile, in Paris. Its cool, almost beautiful, but its artistry, Koda
clinical rigor celebrates Chanel’s noted, is “hard to read,” which
allegiance to the aesthetics of mod- might have been a good reason to
ernism. Nineteen modular “vit- provide some context for it a social
rines”white cubes open on one side history, one of several filmed inter-
are aligned in a grid against the views, or a portrait of Chanel at
black walls of a windowless work. A visceral sense of the
gallery, giving visitors the illusion woman has been sacrificed to aes-
of strolling through the shopping thetics, the way personal objects
streets of a bungalow colony on the are banished from a modernist
dark side of the moon. Within each décor (though Chanel’s décors
module, two, three, or six man- were rich and eclectic). Koda
nequins, faintly rouged and coiffed hoped that by using Lagerfeld’s
in white feathers, display sixty- work as a “foil” he could start “a
three ensembles from eight dialogue,” and supply some of the
decades. The earliest is an evening missing tension. But the conceit of
gown by Chanel, circa 1917-20, of then-and-now Chanel suits side by
black silk tulle with a fringe of pail- side in a white box isn’t a recipe for
lettes; the latest an evening dress by lively conversation. Perhaps the
Lagerfeld from spring/summer foils to juxtapose with Chanel were
2005, of black silk lace and chiffon. her contemporaries in fashion. She
The ensembles are grouped by wasn’t a fount of invention, like
color, mood, shape, material, and Schiaparelli; a technical innovator,
affinity (little black dresses; Gypsy like Fortuny or Vionnet; or an
exuberance; “orientalist-moderne” impresario, like Poiret, although
lamé; romantic lace; permutations she did design memorable cos-
of the suit) rather than by period, as tumes for Cocteau, Diaghilev, and
they would be in a retrospective, a Jean Renoir. Her own rules of the
genre for which Chanel seems like game, distilled over the decades,
an obvious candidate. But were a core of beliefs that were as
Lagerfeld is quoted in the show as much about womanhood and its
“detesting” retrospectives, and the paradoxes as about clothing.
curators believe that couture
deserves to be looked at without "Balzac has invented every-
extraneous or sensational distrac-
thing,” Colette wrote, and he might
tions. “We don’t do the biography
have invented Chanel, had she not
thing,” Koda told me. “That’s mydone it with such panache herself.
bias. Chanel wouldn’t be remem- Gabrielle Chanel was born in 1883,
bered if it wasn’t for the work.”
in Saumur, a city of the Loire
Valley, where her parents, who
The deceptive simplicity of already had a mildly retarded
665
daughter and were not yet married,
had settled briefly. Her father,
Albert, was an itinerant peddler
descended from peasants and tav-
ern keepers, and her mother,
Jeanne, was a seamstress with a
fragile constitution that was further
strained by a vagabond’s life, a
faithless husband of incorrigible
charm, and the birth of six children.
She died at thirty-two, when
Gabrielle was eleven, and Albert
sent his sons to live with relatives
and his daughters to a high-walled
convent orphanage (he never came
back to retrieve them), where the
nuns taught them to sew. Six years
later, Gabrielle was given the
choice of taking the veil or leaving.
Her maternal grandmother
arranged for another convent to
take her in a boarding school in
Moulins, a garrison town where the
élite 10th Light Horse Cavalry hap-
pened to be stationed and in 1903,
when she was twenty, her teachers
found her a respectable situation.
She went to work for a draper and
his wife who liked to employ the
nuns’ charity cases humble maid-
ens, they imagined, handy with a
needle. Many years later, Chanel
described herself at that age as a
restless misfit “with a hot little
body.” She told her friend Paul
Morand, “Arrogance is in every-
thing I do. It is in my gestures, the
harshness of my voice, in the glow
of my gaze, in my sinewy, torment-
ed face.”
There were no respectable situ-
ations for a girl like Chanel in a
garrison town. She freelanced at a
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local cabaret as a poseuse one of
the pretty extras who filled in
between the artistes’ numbers with
a few songs, then passed a hat.
Though she couldn’t carry a tune,
the soldiers found her adorable, and
they called her Coco, the name of a
pet in one of her coy ditties. On
weekends, she moonlighted at a tai-
lor’s shop patronized by the offi-
cers, and it was there that she met
Étienne Balsan, her first protector.
He was the black sheep of a rich
family, a famous polo player and
horse breeder who owned a château
near Compiègne, where Chanel
learned to ride, and acquired a
number of other skills that the nuns
had neglected. For a while, she
overlapped with Balsan’s outgoing
mistress, Émilienne d’Alençon, the
great Belle Époque demimondaine,
and one of Coco’s early promoters.
Though Chanel never referred
to her convent years, and in her
novelistic memoirs translated the
word “nuns” into “aunts,” and the
orphanage into a farmhouse of dour
spinsters, she also never outgrew
what Edmonde Charles-Roux, one
of her best biographers, calls “a
yearning for austerity.” However
gratefully Chanel might have
recalled the gallants who initiated
her into the idle and racy life of an
apprentice courtesan, it came with
its own set of humiliations. Perhaps
as a result, the little grisette passed
among playboy friends refused
ever to fetishize another woman
and that was the moral principle
(one of the few) on which Chanel
666
founded her career.
Modernism was in part a
response to the artifice and dandy-
ism of the fin de siècle, which may
have suggested another of Chanel’s
working axioms: the simplest solu-
tion has the greatest authority. She
made her début in fashion as a
milliner who, in an era of exorbi-
tant plumage, stripped the trimming
from her hats, and went on from
there. In Charles-Roux’s recently
reissued “Chanel and her World”
(Vendome; $50), a life in pictures
adapted from her biography, there
is a photograph of Coco at thirty
(she always looked a decade
younger than she was), posing on
the rocky beach at Deauville, hat-
less and windblown, in front of a
weathered cabana. One hand is
deep in the pocket of a chunky fish-
erman’s chemise with a middy col-
lar and rolled cuffs, and she has
thrust a flower into the belt. The
picture was taken in the summer of
1913, when Chanel opened her first
maison de couture on a fashionable
street next to the Deauville casino.
It was financed by the English polo
player, writer, and industrialist for
whom she had left Balsan, Arthur
(Boy) Capel, her great love. And it
was here that Chanel staged her
coup: the introduction of supple
cardigan suits, devoid of embellish-
ment, that skimmed an uncorseted
body. They were made from jersey
tricot a cheap fabric used for the
men’s underwear and work clothes
that her father had peddled. The
ladies of Deauville woke up one
morning to discover a shocking
deficit of chic between their own
clothes and la mode Chanel. It was
the difference between a regime of
frivolity and one of nonchalance.
The First World War made
Chanel’s name rich Parisians
escaping at short notice to
Deauville flocked to her shop to
replenish their wardrobes. (Among
her many gifts, one of the greatest
was a genius for timing.) She, in
turn, gave a clientele who were
suddenly emancipated by adversity,
and by the departure of their men,
clothes they could walk, drive, and
work in. By the early twenties,
those women, and their daughters,
were game for sports, cigarettes,
enterprise, speed, divorce, short
skirts, bobbed hair (Chanel had
cropped her own luxuriant tresses
in 1917), and the exquisitely unpre-
tentious “little black dress” “a Ford
signed Chanel,” as Vogue cap-
tioned one of them. Paul Poiret, her
leading rival, dismissed her sump-
tuary reforms as la misère de luxe,
and in one respect he was right. To
wear them smartly, you needed the
adolescent body of the undernour-
ished waif she had been.
Chanel was always her own
best model, and she was proud to
say that she never designed a dress
that she wouldn’t have worn. Her
style was a synthesis of feminine
softness and masculine ease, the
gossamer and the tweedy. If she
appropriated certain virile entitle-
ments the way she borrowed her
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lovers’ sweaters and overcoats and
elements from the uniforms of their
grooms, gamekeepers, and crew-
men there was no militance to her
chic. Her original distinction was to
have rescued the “New Woman” of
the Belle Époque not only from her
frumpy bloomers and didactically
mannish tailleurs but from her sta-
tus as an object of ridicule to the
“Old Men” of either sex who feared
her modernity. Chanel’s respect for
the appearance of propriety was the
adaptive trait of the orphan and
shopgirl. Like Joan of Arc, another
daughter of the people who
acquired a large following of aristo-
crats, Chanel did so by outclassing
them in the lists of purity.
Chanel’s tastes were virtually
infallible except in romance and
politics. She had many passions but
few loves, and it amused her to
keep younger men, one of whom
was Grand Duke Dmitri
Pavlovitch, the Tsar’s nephew and
an alleged assassin of Rasputin.
She also hired his sister, the Grand
Duchess Marie, to direct the
embroidery workshop that pro-
duced her sumptuous Russian
tunics and tabards of the twenties.
Dmitri repaid her generosity with
an introduction to Ernest Beaux, a
chemist and perfumer, who in 1920
concocted the formula for Chanel
No. 5. Though Chanel conceded the
distribution rights to the
Wertheimers and litigated with
them for the next forty years, the
royalties made her one of the rich-
est women in France. She moved
667
into a mansion near the Elysée
Palace and spent her fortune with
abandon: on a Rolls-Royce;
Coromandel screens; cascades of
diamonds and pearls that she mixed
rakishly with her ropes of “amusing
trinkets”; and a villa at
Roquebrune, in Provence, where
she cohabited with the grandest of
her consorts, the Duke of
Westminster, and entertained the
Churchills. Chanel and the Duke
tried very hard to conceive a child
he had no heirs and when they did-
n’t (she was by then forty-two) he
married someone else. She con-
soled herself gamely with a defiant
boast: “There have been several
Duchesses of Westminster, but only
one Chanel.”
Despite her wealth, Chanel was
a notoriously stingy employer, and
she saw no reason that her under-
paid fitting models, having spent
the day immobile on their feet,
shouldn’t find it natural as they
were beautiful girls to spend the
night in a supine position earning
overtime. But she was generous to
her embarrassingly rustic brothers
(in part to keep them out of sight),
and she quietly paid the expenses of
penniless artists, poets, godchil-
dren, and friends. The last of
Chanel’s known gentlemen gigolos
was Hans Gunther von Dincklage,
alias Spatz, the suave German offi-
cer who shared her suite at the Ritz
during the Occupation. When she
was arrested after the Liberation of
Paris by the Comité d’Épuration,
and questioned about this unfortu-
nate alliance, she supposedly retort-
ed to her interrogator, “Really,
monsieur, a woman of my age can-
not be expected to look at his pass-
port if she has a chance of a lover.”
Chanel was released after three
hours, and there were, amazingly,
no further repercussions. Madsen,
who had access to files of the
British Foreign Office that were
“inadvertently declassified” in
1972, explains why. Churchill’s old
friend possessed secret information
that might have embarrassed him:
from 1940 until the end of the war,
he had violated his own country’s
trade embargo with Germany to
pay for the upkeep of the French
properties owned by the Duke of
Windsor. This information was
apparently not shared with the
Resistance, and neither was the file
on Operation Modellhut. Though
Chanel was never persona non
grata in France, she prudently
moved to a resort town near
Lausanne, where Spatz joined her,
and she later paid “a large sum,”
Madsen says, to suppress any men-
tion of her name or her activities in
the memoirs of Hitler’s former
police chief.
Lagerfeld was a sixteen-year-
old star fashion student in 1954, the
year that Chanel went back into
business, with a critically disas-
trous first collection of silk and jer-
sey suits and lace evening gowns
that recalled her couture of the thir-
ties, and which the French and
British press soundly panned as
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mumsy and passé. Lagerfeld later
told Madsen that he thought Chanel
“got it right,” and the Americans
agreed with him. She was
relaunched on this side of the
Atlantic by the enthusiasm of edi-
tors, buyers, and fashion civilians
for ageless, undemanding clothes
that restored the comfort women
had surrendered to Dior’s New
Look, and offered relief from the
tiresome comedy of the hemline
wars that dominated postwar fash-
ion. The youthquake of the sixties
never shook Chanel’s convictions
(“I hate the old little girls,” she said
of matrons in miniskirts), and she
wasn’t troubled by the disdain of
futurists like Courrèges, who called
her “an old Rolls, still in working
order, but inert.” Her pronounce-
ments grew more oracular, and they
acquired an acidity she took no
pains to dilute. Jackie Kennedy had
“horrible taste,” and was responsi-
ble for “spreading it all over
America.” (Madsen notes that
Chanel had evidently forgotten
about the pink suit.) Saint Laurent,
on the other hand, was a young man
with “excellent taste,” she said.
“The more he copies me, the more
taste he displays.”
Chanel always shrugged at the
knockoff artists and pirates who
rushed copies into mass production,
and she wasn’t as vulnerable to
them as other designers. Her
strength was never novelty, and
reproductions couldn’t possibly
compete with the work of her cou-
ture atelier. “She considered imita-
668
tion homage,” her assistant said (to
which one might add, she paid her-
self that homage all the time).
When the Chambre Syndicale de la
Couture tightened the rules govern-
ing press access to the collections,
Chanel resigned. “Come to my
place and steal all the ideas you
can,” she told the media. “Fashion
isn’t made to be canned.” As
Rhonda Garelick writes in a
thoughtful catalogue essay, “shop-
girls riding city buses” in head-to-
toe faux Chanel “delighted the nar-
cissist” in her “and perhaps the
secret populist as well.”
Whatever Chanel would have
made of the Met show, it is just the
sort of meal she preferred a lean
banquet, beautifully plated, that
leaves you hungry. But the “narcis-
sist” might have wondered why on
earth her seven decades of “iconic”
work needed Lagerfeld’s as a foil,
and the “populist” might have
resented the show’s solecism.
Chanel spoke and speaks to a host
of other artists and designers across
the spectrum, with whom an open
forum would have been more stim-
ulating than a hermetic “dialogue.”
Koda assured me that Lagerfeld did
not have or expect veto power, but
the curators made no secret of their
anxiety to please him. And here one
touches upon the inherent problem
with the “extravagant” corporate
sponsorship of museum fashion
shows the trap of gratitude. The
unseemly promotional hyperbole of
the message from Chanel’s chief
operating officer which introduces
the catalogue serves as a reminder
that the sponsor’s interest, however
philanthropically packaged, is
brand awareness, and publicity is
the forge that heats the double “C.”
A museum’s obligation is to retain
its cool-headed autonomy.

Lagerfeld in his own right is a

virtuoso, and more versatile than
Chanel in certain respects. Some of
the loveliest couture in the show the
ivory cocktail suit of spun-sugar
bouclé, with a dissolving hem; the
romantically tiered evening dress
of black tulle, with a trompe-l’oeil
cummerbund of silver threadwork
and rhinestones is, in fact, his hand-
iwork. But Chanel asked one
unsparing question of every stitch
she made, of every flourish or tuck
on a dress: Is it essential? And if
one asks the question about
Lagerfeld’s place in this show at the
Met, which should have been
Chanel’s show, not a Chanel show,
the answer is no.

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 T IS THE ULTIMATE MEDIA PLACE-
I MENT. VIEWERS OF THE TERRES-
TRIAL TV premiere of the film
Moulin Rouge, starring Nicole
Kidman, on Channel 4 this
Saturday will also see the full
three-minute version of a new cam-
paign for Chanel No 5 in its first
break. The ad, like Moulin Rouge,
is directed by Baz Luhrmann and
features Kidman reprising her role
from the movie.
Five months ago Chanel, work-
ing with Luhrmann's agent,
approached Channel 4 suggesting
the programme/ad deal. The agree-
ment neatly dodges any regulatory
issues, as ASA codes aimed at
maintaining the separation of pro-
gramming from ads do not apply to
films. Arguably it also achieves the
dream media buy - an almost seam-
less join between programme and
ad.
Similarly, Chanel's media
agency Mediaedge:cia, together
with cinema sales house Pearl &
Dean, has negotiated with cinema
owners for the execution to be
shown as part of the run of film
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trailers, rather than with the other share of the women's fragrance
ads. The three-minute cut debuted
last Friday, the opening night of
market for the past three years,
according to Euromonitor.
Bridget Jones: The Edge of
Reason, with two-minute versions It is benefiting from a boom in
now appearing with other films. premium fragrance sales, spurred
by rising disposable incomes in
This ambitious media strategy regions such as Eastern Europe, the
is a fitting environment for a block- Middle East and Africa. The fra-
buster of an ad. Chanel artistic grance market is highly fragment-
director Jacques Helleu, mes- ed, but No 5 has managed to cling
merised by Moulin Rouge, on to market leadership, staying
approached Luhrmann with a view well ahead of its nearest rival, Estee
to recapturing the magic for its Lauder's Pleasures. Chanel's Allure
flagship brand. The fashion house is the third-biggest seller.
also briefed its creative director,
Karl Lagerfeld, to design five In the UK, however, the picture
dresses for Kidman to wear in the is a little different. Although No 5
campaign, including one with pink is the top-selling women's fra-
feathers and a 15ft train. grance, its share has fallen over the
past three years (see box). The
Staying ahead 2002 launches of Hugo Deep Red
and Glow by J.Lo stole buyers from
Chanel is estimated to have No 5, while Jean Paul Gaultier,
invested £18m in the campaign Christian Dior's J'adore and Dolce
(which also appears in magazines) & Gabbana Light Blue have all
to keep 83-year-old Chanel No 5, increased their share since 2001.
the world's market leader in premi-
um fragrances, at the top. Chanel's challenge in the UK is
to make the No 5 brand more rele-
Globally, Chanel No 5 has vant to a younger audience. Where
maintained a constant 3.2% value their mothers may have preferred to
670
stand by one signature scent, women's fragrances, are also start-
today's teens and 20-somethings ing to perceive Chanel No 5 as an
prefer to have an array of fra- 'older' scent.
grances on their dressing table.
Euromonitor's Briney feels
They are also spending more price may also be an issue. 'The
per bottle. As teenagers and those smallest available size of Chanel
in their early 20s grow richer they No 5 is a 50ml bottle, which is
are inclined to trade up from mass- often too much of a leap for
market fragrances to premium younger consumers. Elizabeth
brands. 'It is the celeb-linked Arden has been able to attract this
brands such as Glow by J.Lo that age group into its Sunflowers and
have done well to tap into this True Love fragrances by reducing
trend,' says Euromonitor account bottle sizes to a more affordable
manager Claire Briney. 30ml.'

She predicts that this So will the adoption of Kidman

Christmas' launch of True Star by
Tommy Hilfiger, featuring
Beyonce, as well as next year's
Britney fragrance from Elizabeth
Arden, will continue this trend at
the expense of the more classic per-
fumes.
Younger competition
Chanel has already launched
two fragrance brands to capture this
younger market. Coco
Madamoiselle was introduced in
2001 and Chance in 2002, and both
have done well, taking a 2.3% and
2% share respectively in their first
year of trading.
Boots fragrance buyer Mary
Green says that although the classic
brands are aspirational, 'younger
customers tend to go for Chance or
Mademoiselle if they want Chanel'.
She adds that young men, who
account for half of all purchases of
as the face of No 5 help boost the
brand's appeal to its future core
market? Interbrand chairman Rita
Clifton is not convinced. 'Nicole
Kidman is known for being quirky
and interesting, but not necessarily
acclaimed for being a great beauty,'
she says.
However, Clifton points out
that the Chanel brand as a whole
has been bolstered by the populari-
ty of its trademark tweed clothing
this season, an effect which could
feed through into the profile of its
fragrances.
Whatever the long-term effect
of the current campaign, the
shelves in Boots are still likely to
be bereft of No 5 come 25
December; the brand is notorious
among fragrance retailers for being
the first choice for 'panicky men
hurtling around stores on Christmas
Eve', according to Briney.

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 spent much of her time are mind- ern society.
F ROM THE AUSTERE BLACK AND
WHITE COVER OF THE ICONIC boggling as expensive artefacts
NUMBER 5 PERFUME to the little abound in each room with even the As for Chanel no. 5, it remains
black dress immortalised by Coco walls having stories to tell. entrenched as the perfume with the
Chanel. Her stamp is unmistakable longest stretch of popularity in his-
in the stark black and white décor From obscurity to fame. tory having been launched in the
and mirrorred walls of the famed 1920s. Our guide tells us that when
fashion house's main salon in Paris. But first, a bit of the story of the perfume was being developed,
Even our guide, the company how Gabrielle Chanel rose from Coco Chanel was sent numbered
spokesperson, is wearing a rose obscurity in the small town of samples. She chose sample number
pink and grey-green check outfit Aubazine to being the toast not five and hence it became Chanel
that screams "Chanel" all over it. only of Paris, but the world. Her number five. Not only that, she
life began in 1883 as a virtual used the starkly simple laboratory
Chanel. The name evokes the image. orphan studying under the care of bottle for selling the new perfume.
Luxury and exclusivity. nuns in a convent. She grew up to The design has joined the perma-
become a seamstress with an nent collection at the New York
We are lucky. The house of instinctive flair for knowing how to Museum of Modern Art. The per-
Chanel has agreed to take our small look chic without spending too fume itself became a status symbol
group of Indian journalists not only much money. When she became in the 1950s when Marilyn Monroe
for a peek at the salon but also on a rich and famous, Coco, as she was said that all she wore to bed were a
tour of Coco Chanel's private apart- known, created an imaginary rich few drops of Chanel no. 5.
ments on the upper floor. My male family background for herself,
colleagues are clearly not as excit- seeking to hide her humble back- A different world.....
ed as I am but gaze politely at the ground. By then few cared where
minimalist salon from where we she came from as the elegant seam- But Coco Chanel's private
climb a spiral staircase to the door stress had conquered the fashion apartments on the Rue Cambon are
of the private apartments. Like me, world with her daring innovative quite the opposite of the elegant
however, their jaws drop when the designs. The little black dress, simplicity of her salons or her
doors open and we step into anoth- short skirts, and men's jacket worn clothes. The décor is ornate and
er world. The opulence and with a skirt are all vintage Chanel baroque with the artefacts ranging
baroque artistry of the apartment and even today form the basics of a from lacquered Coromandel
where the legendary couturier modern woman's wardrobe in west- screens with Chinese paintings to

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elaborate life size models of deer
ranged in front of the fire place.
The mirrors have elaborate oversize
frames while the chandeliers repli-
cate the double "C" symbol used as
a brand logo in most products
including bags and belts.
Everything in the rooms reflects the
concept of duality in her products
with nearly each antique or display
piece having a twin beside it. At the
entrance itself are two life-size stat-
ues of young boys poised in front of
the Coromandel screens which, we
are told, she had bought from India.
Strangely, she never turned in for
the day in this artistic apartment
above the main salon. Instead, she
would return every night to the Ritz
Hotel.
... and life
10 years though several other men
swept through her life. At the age of
50, she finally contemplated mar-
riage but the man in question,
designer Paul Iribe, suddenly died
while playing tennis.
When Coco Chanel died in
1971, her fashion house apparently
remained dormant for a decade but
was revived under the leadership of
designer Karl Lagerfeld in the early
1980s. It is under his guidance that
the House of Chanel has finally
reached India with the first show-
room now in New Delhi's Imperial
Hotel. Despite the changes at the
helm, we are told the essential clas-
sic designs of Coco Chanel will
remain imbued in all creations of
this high fashion house.

We are told she would sit on top

of the stairs leading to her private
apartments, looking through the
mirrors on the walls at her clients
downstairs. She could see their
reactions as models walked down
the steps wearing her creations,
without being seen herself. The
salon on the ground floor has décor
typically identified with Chanel.
The focus is on shades of black and
white with a touch of grey in the
carpets which have a unique design
for each segment of the showroom.

Our guide informs us the

woman who began life in a convent
had several affairs with renowned
personalities. She was the compan-
ion of the Duke of Westminister for

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 became famous other perfumes Allure the Chanel perfume for the
T HERE ARE MANY PERFUMES IN
THE WORLD THAT STAY IN OUR
MEMORIES AS BEING WONDERFUL OR
were made around this same idea. woman of today was released in
1996.
EVEN GREAT. These perfumes how- Today while Chanel No.5 is
ever are eclipsed by the most one of the most famous perfumes The Chanel perfume range is
famous perfume of our modern in the world there are other types of always released with the help of a
times. This is the Chanel Perfumes Chanel perfumes for us to see and beautiful celebrity. The first such
that bears the simple number 5 on try. Some Chanel perfumes have person who helped make Chnnel
its label. We know this perfume as followed the trend of the first perfume well known was Marilyn
it is now called Chanel No.5. Chanel perfume. These perfumes Monroe. In an interview with a
bear a simple number as their journalist Marilyn Monroe said that
There are many stories about name. she only wore Chanel No.5 to bed.
how this Chanel perfume came into
being. What is known is that it was Besides these Ernest Beaux Nicole Kidman became the new
created by one Ernest Beaux and created other famous Channel per- face of Channel perfumes during
relesed at the premier of one of fumes for us. These include Chanel 2004. As we knew her as a talented
Chanel's fashion shows. This was 22 which was released in 1922, actress the idea that she wore
in 1921. The perfume was a hit Cuir de Russie which was intor- Chanel perfumes brands made sure
because it departed from the usual duced in 1925, Gardenia which the that we would try a Chanel perfume
standard of perfumes that were sold public saw in about 1925, and Bois the next time that we went to buy
during that era. des Isles which came into our lives perfumes. This constant change of
during 1926. These perfumes were well known personalities and
This particular Chanel perfume later reintroduced to the world as celebrities helps to keep Chanel
set the stage for many new innova- boutique exclusives in 1986. perfumes in our minds.
tions in the perfume world because
of the new ideas that were used to Other than these Chanel per- For all of these reasons Chanel
create this perfume. Instead of the fumes there are some new brands perfumes is an iconic perfume.
usual flower scents that were used on the market. For instance in 1984 When we buy even a small sample
Ernest Beaux used synthetic per- the house of Chanel launched their perfume we are buying into history,
fume oils as well in his creation. He tribute perfume to Channel. This because no other perfume has
let Chanel choose the sample that Chanel perfume was simply called changed the way that we look at
she wanted to present and when it Coco in honor of Coco Channel. perfumes and ourselves.

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 Edi Kurnik was born in
Maribor - Slovenia, in 1968. He
studied management and marketing
at the University of Maribor.
Currently serving as the E-com-
merce Manager at Triple A-Invest,
the leading direct marketing com-
pany and network in Slovenia.

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 ARE, PERHAPS, THREE
T HERE
CHANEL STORIES WHICH, OF
COURSE, ARE CLOSELY RELATED.
First, there is the story of Gabriel
"Coco" Chanel (1883-1971), the
girl from a humble, nasty back-
ground who forced her way into the
society world and became an inter-
national fashion icon for her fash-
ionable dresses. That story has
been well told by Edmonde
Charles-Roux in her book, Chanel,
although Charles-Roux makes it
quite clear that Coco Chanel work
tirelessly to conceal, obscure and
distort her personal biography.
Next there is the story of A.
Rallet & Co. of Moscow, Russia,
and its chief perfumer, Ernest
Beaux (1881-1961). Beaux "inher-
ited" his position with Rallet
through his father, a perfumer,
member of the board, and superin-
tendent of the company. Beaux
learned his craft and art as a labo-
ratory apprentice.
Rallet was one of two major
Russian fragrance houses that had
been founded by Frenchmen. (The
other was Brocard. Coty too would
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establish himself in Russia just
before the Russian Revolution of
1917!) Both Rallet and Bocard
were successful; both sold interna-
tionally; both had hundreds of
items in their product lines.
In 1912, Ernest Beaux, now
Rallet's top perfumer and manager
of it's laboratories, had a grand suc-
cess with his Bouquet de
Napoleon.
Then came the Russian
Revolution. Rallet, Bocard, Coty
were all nationalized. The owners
lost their capital. Managers
appointed by the new government
took over the businesses. A. Rallet
& Co. what was left of it and Ernest
Beaux decamped for Grasse,
France, where they were taken in
under the sheltering wings of
Chiris, a major fragrance whole-
saler, who had probably been a
major supplier to Rallet.
In 1921, Gabriel Chanel, for
reasons unknown, decided to create
a perfume for her new, successful,
fashion business. Previously fash-
ion designer Paul Poiret now a
676
Chanel competitor had established
a fragrance house, Parfum de
Rosine, named for one of his
daughters.
Gabriel Chanel was introduced
to Ernest Beaux. Although we tend
to forget it today, at this point it was
Beaux who was established in his
career, although it had been disrupt-
ed by the Russian Revolution.
Chanel, although her fame was
growing, was still struggling to get
a foothold in the fashion world.
Their first perfume together was the
greatest legend of all time No. 5 or,
as we more commonly know it,
Chanel No. 5.
The final link in this story starts
with a small cosmetics business
launched in 1862 by Joseph Albert
Ponsin. Ponsin hired Alexander-
Napoleon Bourjois, who expanded
the business and, ultimately, came
to own it. Before his death,
Bourjois took on a partner, Emile
Orosdi. After Bourjois's death,
Orosdi acquired the balance of the
business from Bourjois's family.
Through circumstances, Orosdi
became acquainted with Ernest
Wertheimer. Wertheimer invested The business relationship found mass distribution. Try any
in Bourjois. Perfume was added to between Gabriel Chanel and Pierre Chanel perfume on the market
the product line. Wertheimer and Wertheimer was colorful to say the today not just a quick spritz, but
Orosdi went on to build a depart- least. The marketing power of the wear it for hours and you'll discov-
ment store, Galeries Lafayette, in Wertheimers made Chanel per- er just how good perfume can be.
part to sell their perfumes and cos- fumes world famous. Prior to
metics. World War II, a factory was estab- Today the Chanel business,
lished in Hoboken, New Jersey, to both perfume and couture, is in the
Ernest Wertheimer's son, make Chanel and Bourjois prod- hands of the Wertheimer family.
Pierre, was a horse race enthusiast ucts. Gabriel Chanel complained.
as was Gabriel Chanel. Chanel Hoboken wasn't France. The
bought forms for her hats at Federal Trade Commission com-
Galeries Lafayette. They became plained. You can't suggest that your
acquainted. On April 4, 1924, product is made in France if it is
Parfums Chanel was established, made in Hoboken. Labeling was
with Gabriel Chanel a 10 percent revised. The brand continued to
owner. She was to complain about flourish. Coco tried to introduce her
the size of this share for most of the own, non-Wertheimer perfumes.
rest of her life but her 10 percent The Wertheimers had them seized
share made her wealthy without by the authorities. During World
having to do anything. She contin- War II, Gabriel Chanel closed her
ued to own her clothing business couture business. The Wertheimers
100 percent. sold Chanel No. 5 to the U.S. Army
PX system. Chanel No. 5 emerged
Ernest Beaux who, by this time, from the war as the world's best
had created Chanel's No. 22, now known fragrance. Gabriel Chanel's
went to work for the Wertheimers first post-war collection in Paris
as director of their Bourjois labora- was met with a general lack of
tory. His greatest creation for interest. Her outfits were consid-
Bourjois was Paris de Soir / ered to be dated.
"Evening in Paris" but he continued
to create fragrances for Chanel. When perfumer Ernest Beaux
(Like Chanel No. 5, Evening in retired, he was replaced (in New
Paris is still on the market today!) York, where Parfums Chanel was
Click on image to enlarge now headquartered) by perfumer
Henri Robert. (Elizabeth Arden had
Chanel No.1 tried to hire Henri Robert but he
wanted more money than Arden
What was it? Where did it come was willing to pay!). When Henri
from? When was it issued? Was it Robert retired, he was replaced by
authorized by the Wertheimers? Jacque Polgue. Parfums Chanel
Probably not! continues its dedication to quality,
even though their products have

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 scented perfume. When the couple find the best online perfume source.
H AVE YOU EVER THOUGHT ABOUT
THE NAMES OF THE PERFUMES? landed USA, all the high society Find the best selling perfume for
Why each of them has its specific fell in love with “Shalimar” which women.
own name? Is it a spontaneous became favorite still today. The
decision to name a perfume “JOY”, perfume got its name from a legend
“Shalimar” or “CHANEL N’ 5” ? about an Indian emperor who had a
Why N’ 5 and not N’ 6 , N’ 7 or N’ garden named “Shalimar”.
8?
“My dresses fit very well my
“Perfume”, says Sophia clients…I want a perfume
Grosjman, IFF’s star perfumer, “is addressed to a modern woman that
a promise in a bottle”. will fit her as my clothes do. It
must have a character. And it must
We want to believe. We crave be an expensive one”. Ernest
to be prettier, richer, sexier and Beaux, the creator of “Chanel N’
happier than we are. Perfume 5” introduced Coco Chanel
speaks more to our vulnerabilities (Gabrielle) ten bottles, and separat-
than to our strengths. Consider the ed them in two groups. One group
labels on the fragrances we buy: was numbered in numbers from 1
Pleasures, Beautiful, Delicious, to 5, the second group was num-
Sexy. As Charles Revson said: “We bered 20 to 24. Mademoiselle
sell hope”. And we buy. But, Chanel chose bottle N’ 5. When
behind almost every significant Beaux asked her why she had cho-
perfume there is a story. Take for sen that specific bottle, she
example “Shalimar”. answered: “ I am going to exhibit
my collection on May the 5th,
According to a legend, c’est-a-dire, the 5th day of the 5th
Raymond Guerlain and his wife month. So let’s take a bottle with
were on their trip to USA by sea. this number. Hope this number will
His wife wore “Shalimar” and all bring success to perfume”.
of the passengers were astonished
by this innovative, oriental vanilla Our experts made a research to

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H IS NAME AND HIS FACE MAY NOT
MEAN ANYTHING TO THEM, BUT
JACQUES POLGE has undoubtedly
found his way into the bedrooms,
bathrooms and handbags of women
the world over. He has earned com-
pliments for women and indirectly
brought about first dates, second
dates and even marriage proposals.
How? By creating some of the
most seductive fragrances on the
market.
Polge, you see, is a perfumer,
or, as he is known in the business, a
"nose". And not just any nose. He
is in charge of perfumes at Chanel,
one of the world's most prestigious,
successful and luxurious fashion
brands. Not only is he responsible
for creating new fragrances his lat-
est, Allure Sensuelle, goes on sale
in Britain on Monday but he is the
guarantor of quality for all Chanel
perfumes. In other words, the com-
pany's fragrance heritage rests in
his hands.
In a laboratory in one of Paris's
anonymous but smart suburbs,
Polge, a dapper, laid-back 61-year-
old, conjurs up fragrances which
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evoke exotic climes, opulence,
decadence and, above all, sensu-
ousness. Over the course of more
than 25 years as Chanel's nose, he
has created one fragrance phenom-
enon after another: Coco, Allure,
Coco Mademoiselle and Chance
for women. For men his scents
include Antaeus and Egoiste. If hit
fragrances were feted like hit
records, Polge's walls would be
decorated in platinum discs.
Instead, the walls of Polge's
very cool and clinical lab are lined
with shelves packed with hundreds
of vials of different coloured liq-
uids. Every morning consignments
of raw materials arrive from all
over the world. On any given day
these might include iris, one of
Polge's favourite fragrance "notes"
from Florence; patchouli, which
features in the new perfume, from
Java; and from the south of France,
Rosa Centifolia and jasmine grown
exclusively for Chanel No5. Polge
and his team analyse every ingredi-
ent before making their selection.
Given the amount of raw materials
there are to play with, and blends to
experiment with, it's obvious that
679
the perfume-making process is a
time-consuming one.
Sitting at his vast desk, half of
which is covered with little bottles
and jars of cardboard testers, Polge
agrees. "Curiously enough, the
longest part of the process is to find
a name for the fragrance because
more or less every name has been
taken." By the time names are
being discussed, Polge has usually
had several different embryonic
fragrances on the go for a long
time, and has gradually been whit-
tling them down. "Once we have
the name, it's a question of choos-
ing the perfume usually it's a choice
between two and adjusting it to suit
the whole idea. The process never
takes less than three, sometimes
four years in all.
"But, you know," he adds, "I
consider that the time involved in
the creation is nothing compared to
the time the fragrance lives."
Certainly, timelessness is a key
characteristic of Chanel perfumes.
After all, Chanel No5, the compa-
ny's greatest fragrance hit, has been
popular since its launch in 1921. Its tions. fume, when he was in his early
iconic bottle is the most easily teens and soon developed an inter-
recognisable and most pho- Despite the agelessness of the est in the traditional art of per-
tographed of any fragrance flacon. existing Chanel fragrances, Polge fumery. Had he lived in Paris or the
The scent is as admired by industry believes that the company mustn't north of France, he asserts, he is
experts as it is beloved by women, rest on past glories. "A brand only unlikely to have become a nose.
and it is regarded as a pioneering shows it's alive by creating new "Being in Grasse, I became aware
perfume. Polge points out that product," argues Polge. "But we that there was such a profession as
when couturier Coco Chanel don't want to create too many new a perfumer." It wasn't merely the
launched No5, it was the first time things because often new fra- smells or the creative element
that fashion and fragrance had been grances replace the old ones." And which attracted the young Polge.
successfully linked. Another reason this is one of the main differences Perfume making had a romantic
for its status as the perfumer's per- between Chanel and the competi- appeal, too.
fume is that it broke with conven- tion: whereas many beauty compa-
tion by being modern and abstract. nies launch a new fragrance every "I liked the idea, the poetic idea
"No5 was the first fragrance to use couple of years and phase out older that fragrance is a kind of language.
lots of flowers while not relating to ones or ones which aren't selling It doesn't use words. It doesn't use
the precise scent of a flower. There well, each new Chanel fragrance images. It's invisible. All these
is a mystery behind 5, and that becomes a permanent fixture on the attributes, for me, made sense," he
mystery is very important in a fra- Chanel counter. Polge says: "We says.
grance," says Polge. want our fragrances to complement
each other, and to last. When we Although he didn't study chem-
There's also an agelessness create something, we're always istry, Polge went to university
about No5. It's a scent that has been looking to the long term, we never before serving a traditional appren-
worn by generations of women, do anything just for the short term." ticeship in Grasse, where he
including Marilyn Monroe who learned a great deal from Jean
boosted sales significantly with her Polge's tenure as only the third Carles, the creator of the classic
famous comment that all she wore nose in Chanel's 85-year history as fragrance Ma Griffe. However, he's
to bed at night were "a few drops of perfume makers began in 1978 and quick to point out that, "You have
Chanel No5". Another Chanel fra- overlapped with that of his prede- to teach yourself nobody can teach
grance, No19, only came into being cessor, Henri Robert. Robert was you how to smell. It's a very per-
because of its ageless appeal. the creator of the sparkling, sum- sonal thing. There is a method, yes,
Leaving the Ritz one day in 1970, mery fragrance Cristalle, and No19, but nobody can smell for you."
Coco Chanel was wearing the then the last Chanel perfume in Coco Polge trained himself to memorise
not-yet-launched No19 when she Chanel's lifetime and Polge's per- and recognise thousands of fra-
was accosted by a stranger who sonal favourite. "Mr Robert was grance constituents; his memory is
asked her for the name of her per- rather old when I succeeded him - "a library" of different scents. His
fume because his two female he was 80, so I still have some time tip? "To memorise, you need to
friends had fallen under its spell. At to go," says Polge, laughing. impose order by classifying smells
the time, Chanel was 87. The inci- in groups."
dent convinced her that the fra- Originally from Provence, By the late 1970s, Chanel was
grance should be launched Polge moved with his family to one of the last few perfume houses
although her advisors had reserva- Grasse, known as the capital of per- to have its own in-house nose.

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(Now, it's the only house which can
boast that every single one of its
fragrances was made in its own lab
by its own nose.) Robert had suc-
ceeded Ernest Beaux, the man
behind No5, and both perfumers
worked very closely with
Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
Polge was the first nose operating
entirely by himself, with no input
from Mademoiselle, who had died
in 1971. However, he was keenly
aware of her ongoing presence.
After all, he was now responsible
for ensuring that her fragrances
continued to be made exactly as she
had wanted them.
It's little wonder then, that
Polge's first fragrance for women
was an olfactory homage to the
great lady herself. Coco, launched
in 1984, was inspired by Chanel
and, especially, her Parisian home.
Polge explains: "The idea came
from the way Mademoiselle Chanel
had decorated her apartment above
the shop on the rue Cambon. The
three rooms had not been touched
since her death. I was very sur-
prised by the décor it wasn't what I
had expected at all. There were lac-
quered screens, gilt mirrors, and
treasures she had brought back
from Venice. To me, this was the
very opposite of the simple style I
associated her with.
"It was so different that I tried
to understand how it related to her
fashion and her perfumes. And then
I realised that she had created some
fragrances early on Cuir de Russie,
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Bois des Iles and Sycomore which
were as baroque as her apartment.
At the time, all these fragrances had
been discontinued, probably
because they were not very suc-
cessful. With their disappearance, a
part of her style had disappeared so
it became very important to me to
create a fragrance which reflected
that baroque side of her style."
The resulting Coco is a sensual,
opulent and, as Polge puts it,
"baroque" fragrance with a spicy
floral heart, fruity floral top notes
and a woody base which evokes the
perfumes that Chanel had created
early in her career. Two of these
fragrances Cuir de Russie and Bois
des Iles were later revived by Polge
and now, along with the similarly
resurrected No22 and Gardenia,
enjoy something of a cult follow-
ing.
Just as Coco was an interpreta-
tion of Chanel's exotically decorat-
ed home, Polge had a very specific
inspiration when it came to creating
his latest fragrance for women,
Allure Sensuelle. He says: "One of
the models for our fragrance Allure
is an actress called Anna
Mouglalis. By accident, I happened
to hear her voice one day, and it
surprised me. It was a deep voice,
strong and almost masculine. I was
very surprised by it, by the con-
trasts. I liked the idea of creating a
fragrance after a voice because I
think that one's voice is very impor-
tant, it reveals an inner dimension. I
think that perfume also has to do
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with an inner dimension, you see,
so I thought it was a nice poetic
idea. That was the starting point."
To create a version of the
famously fresh, simple and under-
stated Allure which reflected the
provocative qualities Polge sensed
in Mouglalis's husky voice, he went
back to the original, floral oriental
fragrance. "I added some character-
istic notes that give more depth for
instance, I added a lot of woody
notes, lots of spices, lots of amber
notes, and musk. I don't know how
people will see Allure Sensuelle. I
think a lot of people see it as a new
fragrance that has nothing to do
with the previous Allure. There is a
link but they are two distinct per-
sonalities: whereas Allure is fresh,
simple and easy to wear, and its
sensuality is quite discreet and held
back, I would say that in Allure
Sensuelle the erotic side is flaunted
more and is more prominent. It's
the scent of a great seductress!"
For his next project, Polge is
planning to delve into the compa-
ny's past once more. He is about to
start work on some more lost
Chanel fragrances. Slipping into
conspiratorial mode, he says, excit-
edly: "I've not even told anyone in
the company this but somebody at
our factory at Pantin was going to
throw away a lot of old papers. We
have a conservatoire, a private
museum where we keep lots of
Mademoiselle's possessions and
archives, and the person responsi-
ble for that went to see what they
were going to throw away. Included
in the papers were old formulas that
Mademoiselle Chanel created, like
Une Idée and 1940 very old fra-
grances that nobody remembers
and I have to see what can be done
with those in the future." sm

Allure Sensuelle goes on sale on

Monday at major department
stores. The eau de parfum starts at
£48.50.

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 HANEL’S INDIAN REP MARIELOU icons in every collection to Before that, Estella Warren, Carole
C PHILLIPS talks on the power of strengthen the value of the brand.
muses, the mystique of No 5 and
Bouquet, Cheryl Tiegs, Jean
Shrimpton, Lauren Hutton, Ali
the mighty Karl. What is the mystique behind Macraw, Suzy Parker, Candice
Chanel No 5 - the world’s most Bergman and Marilyn Monroe.
What separates Chanel from other famous perfume?
super-luxe designer brands? Prerna Goel has been termed the
The key to No 5 is the excellent Indian ‘Chanel girl’. What makes
It’s the amazing history of the quality of its raw materials, some up a Chanel girl?
brand, with a creator that changed of which cannot be replaced and
the way women dressed in the constitute the essence of the fra- Prerna Goel was chosen by an
1920s. Chanel is one of the rare grance’s identity. At each step of English production house for a doc-
houses to have its ‘in-house’ cre- fabrication, Chanel cultivates a umentary on various countries to be
ators in the various sectors they are meticulous craft of luxury from shown as part of a television series,
given total liberty and creative raw materials to packaging; Chanel ‘Luxury Unveiled’ (China, India,
freedom. Today, these creators protects the mystery and the ability Mexico, UK and Switzerland.) The
integrated into the House of Chanel to incite dreams. From 1921 to idea behind the television series
remain faithful to the values of today, Chanel No 5 is still the best- was to meet 5 Chanel clients from
Chanel, finding their inspiration in selling fragrance worldwide. the various parts of the world so
the intimate world of the creator they could tell us why they dress in
Gabrielle Coco Chanel while rein- You’ve been a muse for YSL early Chanel.
terpreting the Chanel codes in on in your career. Who are some of
every new collection. the muses for the Chanel brand?
Recently, the voice of Anna
Tell us a little bit on Chanel’s fash- Mouglalis, a beautiful French
ion genius, Karl Largerfeld… actress inspired Jacques Polge. He
transcribed the sensuous voice of
Karl Largerfeld reinvents the Anna into a fragrance called Allure
legend of Coco Chanel through Sensuelle. Nicole Kidman incar-
fashion, be it haute couture or nates the image of No 5 her ele-
ready to wear. He, like the other gance and ability to represent the
creators, uses the brand codes and spirit and modernity of Chanel.

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O NCE MORE THE GODS OF THE
FASHION INDUSTRY HAVE PRE-
PARED A TREAT FOR ORDINARY MOR-
TALS, with the main ingredient of
the naked skin of the famous. Keira
Knightley nude in the campaign for
the elegant Chanel.

However the commercial cam-

paign, as we can expect from this
fashion house, glows with sophisti-
cated style, merging sex appeal and
glamour.

Following in the footsteps of

Nicole Kidman, who in 2003 was
brilliant in the most expensive
commercial campaign of all time
for Chanel No. 5, Keira was bril-
liant in “'Coco Mademoiselle”. The
filming took place in the centre of
the fashion world, Paris, in the
background of the well known
Eiffel Tower, the picturesque sun-
set with the musical background by
Joss Stone “L Is For The Way”.

One of the locations is

Vendome, where the Ritz hotel is,
in which Coco lived for more thir-
ty years, reports communitylive-
journal.com.

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:New Delhi - ward it to Chanel’s Paris office. and stabilises the ecology,” said
Price: Rs 60,000-Rs 75,000 per kg. Ahuja.

HE SCENT OF A SWEET-SMELLING The rose concrete, a highly Besides, the return from rose
T HIMALAYAN ROSE is luring a expensive wax-like substance, has
Parisian couture house. been extracted from a rose variety
cultivation is higher at Rs 40,000
per hectare. Regular crops like rice
called Damask rose, or Rosa fetches not more than Rs 25,000
House of Chanel, the French Damascena. In the secretive world per hectare, said Bimal Chander, a
fashion brandname synonymous of perfume business, it is used in farmer in Kangra district, Himachal
with feminine sartorial elegance cosmetics by a select few makers. Pradesh. Hence, the attraction to
and signature perfumes like No. 5, switch to damask.
has been sniffing out aromatic fra- The stock of Damask rose was
grances in Himachal Pradesh. originally brought from Bulgaria in At present, about 4,000 hectares
the late ’70s, but the institute start- are under Damask rose cultivation.
A year ago, a two-member team ed conducting trials on rose con- They are grown in Kashmir,
from Chanel visited the govern- crete a few years ago. Besides, it Himachal, Haryana and Punjab,
ment-run Institute of Himalayan has developed two varieties of and are harvested for its oil, water
Bioresource Technology in damask Himroz and Jwala that can and concrete.
Palampur on the slopes of grow in high altitude as well as in
Dhauladhar range to check out the the plains. But unlike rose oil which has a
perfuming potentials of its rose ‘‘The Damask rose grown in captive market in West Asia and is
stock. the hills is better in quality and has more expensive at Rs 2.5 lakh-Rs 3
higher notes of fragrance,” said lakh (it takes 4,000 kg of petals to
“They ( Chanel ) are testing our Ahuja. make one kg of oil), the demand for
products to develop perfumes and rose concrete is restricted, hence
we are trying to match their specif- According to a source, the fash- there are few promoters of rose
ic requirements,” said P S Ahuja, ion house is keen to procure rose concrete. The early onset of sum-
the director at the institute. concrete to the tune of 100 kg a mer this year has affected the blos-
year from India, a deal that may som, that blooms once or twice a
Last week, the institute sent a prompt contract farmers to grow year and is expected to push up
10 kg batch of rose concrete to a Damask rose. “Rose cultivation prices further in the international
Mumbai-based company to for- creates little disturbance to the soil market.

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 Marielou Phillips, public rela-
tions manager of Chanel in India,
refused to comment but said that
the fashion house currently meets
its need of rose material from
Grasse, the perfume capital of
France located a few kilometres
from the city of Canne, south of
France.

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 EXCLUSIFS 10 Named after the year of its cre- guid flowers. It was the first woody
L ES COMPRISES
IDENTICAL BOTTLES, each with
its own special story. The bottles
ation (1922) this is femininity per-
sonified, and a rich scent of beauti-
fragrance in the history of perfume,
and is still guaranteed to stir the
have been deliberately kept simple ful flowers. Tuberose appears with soul and ignite the senses. (Created
so that all the emphasis is on its grace, while aldehydes give by Coco and Beaux.)
contents. strength and spirit. It will sweep
men of their feet and pretty much The one that almost didn’t make
Each of these 10 fragrances in knock them out. (Created by Coco it the divine N°18.
this compilation are unique, and and Beaux.)
while the perfumes created by Cuir De Russie
Coco Chanel and Ernest Beaux Gardenia
(creator of Chanel fragrances when Russia was the training ground
Coco was alive) are acknowledged Coco’s love of white flowers is for Beaux, it also yielded a lover for
as classics, the new creations by legendary, thus the appearance of Coco in the form of Grand Duke
Jacques Polge (the main Chanel the iconic camellia in Chanel col- Dimitri, and inspired a taste for
“nose” now) are true masterpieces. lections. Unfortunately it has no Byzantine ornaments and fur-
His genius lies in the ability to scent, but the gardenia, which it trimmed capes. Created in 1927,
evoke memories and stir your closely resembles, is sweet this musky, smoky fragrance
imagination. smelling and this perfume is a gar- echoes “the Imperial Guard with
denia garden in full bloom. his weather beaten boots softened
I was lucky enough to be able (Created by Coco and Beaux.) by birch bark”. With leather and
to have a “whiff” of all the different wood scents softened by Oriental
perfumes prior to meeting Chanel Bois Des Iles jasmine, this scent is the most mas-
perfumer Christopher Sheldrake in culine. (Created by Coco and
Singapore recently (my favourites Chanel created the “little black Beaux.)
being 28 La Pausa and N°18), but dress” in 1926 and fashion was
really, there’s nothing like being awash with the exotic influence Eau de Cologne
treated to a “smell test’’ with an from the African subcontinent. To
expert perfumer. complement that trend, this per- All great perfumers have their
fume took the wearer on an intoxi- eau de cologne, so naturally one
N°22 cating journey to a world of pre- had to be included in Chanel’s cat-
cious woods, opiate scents and lan- alogue in 1929. The original was

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created by an Italian perfumer Malaysians will immediately find
based in Cologne. This time round, familiar and it will undoubtedly
with Polge’s touch, it retains the create a yearning for historical
citrus and nepoli ingredients but in buildings, Chinese antiques, quiet
a more subtle blend. Light and with streets and the culture and elegance
a very fresh, clean scent. of ancient China. (Created by
Polge.)
31 Rue Cambon
Bel Respiro
In 1921, Coco set up her work-
shops, shows, boutiques and even- The name of Coco’s first home
tually her home at this address. The in the countryside, this perfume
buzz of her workplace is captured sweeps you away to place where
in a beautiful chypre fragrance that it’s perpetually spring time. The
is sensual, elegant, modern and scent of freshly cut grass mingles
fashion personified. (Created by with the promise of a new day,
Polge.) where everything is bright and
sunny. (Created by Polge.)
N°18
28 La Pausa
Named after the prestigious
address of Chanel’s fine jewellery This was the address of Coco’s
boutique (No 18, Place Vendome), elegant house above the village of
this was the most difficult perfume Roquebrune with a view of the far-
to make, partly due to the rareness away Italian coast. The iris is the
of the ambrette seed, which it con- main feature here, the “sumptuous
tains. According to Sheldrake, rhizone of which tons are required
N°18 was also hard to complete, so to extract just a hundred grams of
much so that it was almost left out absolute”. The perfume will make
from the collection. This gem is a you yearn to be out in the sunshine,
wonderful, intoxicating fragrance to take a holiday by the sea and to
that evokes happiness. (Created by curl up in bed and fall asleep.
Polge.) (Created by Polge.) The Les
Exclusifs range is available at the
Coromandel will be familiar to Chanel boutique in Suria KLCC.
Malaysians. Each fragrance costs RM730 for a
200ml bottle, except the Eau de
Coromandel Cologne EDT Flacon 400ml which
costs RM1,210.
A distinctly oriental scent
inspired by Coco’s famous
Coromondel screen (Chinese
laquered screen). It is a scent that

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 T 31, RUE CAMBON, NEAR THE
A PLACE DE LA CONCORDE and
on the third floor above the Chanel
store, there is an apartment with
exquisite 17th-century Chinese
wooden screens, no kitchen and no
bedroom. Jacques Polge is the
Chanel perfumer, and he knows the
apartment well because it belonged
to the woman everyone at Chanel
refers to as “Mademoiselle.”
Coco Chanel slept and ate at
the Ritz, but she entertained here.
(Dinner was brought in by ser-
vants.) On one of Mr. Polge’s vis-
its, while the apartment was closed
and off limits to all but the most
trusted insiders, he noticed the
screens. That was years ago, how-
ever, and that is getting ahead of
the story.
Since 1978, Mr. Polge has
exercised a unique power in the
industry. He alone both curates and
guards the work of his two (only
two) Chanel perfumer predeces-
sors, Ernest Beaux and Henri
Robert. He also invents new
Chanel perfumes.
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His latest project was inspired cost $175.
in a roundabout way by his first
encounter with Chanel’s apartment. With the collection Mr. Polge
restores four Chanel fragrances that
“I was new at Chanel, and I had disappeared: Chanel No. 22
was very surprised by this décor,” (from 1922), which Mr. Beaux cre-
he said. He was impressed by the ated the year after he created No. 5.
rich and detailed silver and gold The other three Chanel perfumes
boxes, luxurious Art Deco furni- are also from the ’20s: the rich
ture and leather-bound books, leather Cuir de Russie, the green
which stood out against the apart- floral Gardénia and the spicy Bois
ment’s celadon walls. des Îles.
“I said, ‘What’s that, and To complement them he has
what’s this?’ ” Mr. Polge said. “I created six new Chanel perfumes,
was thinking, ‘I wonder how these almost doubling the number of
objects are represented in her per- post-World War II Chanels “in
fumes,’ not only the ones that still print.” (Among those are Coco,
existed but also those that were no Coco Mademoiselle and No. 19.)
longer sold.”
In the scent business the collec-
On Feb. 12, Mr. Polge tried to tion is regarded as an audacious
answer the questions he posed to move. “A 10-perfume collection is
himself at 31, rue Cambon with the a huge number,” said Alain
release of a collection of 10 per- Lorenzo, the president of Parfums
fumes called Les Exclusifs. There Givenchy France. “Perhaps they
will be no marketing and no ads, felt a single perfume wouldn’t
and the perfumes will be sold only make an impact.”
in Chanel boutiques and at
Bergdorf Goodman, in 200-milli- But if Mr. Lorenzo expresses
liter spray bottles of eau de toilette, surprise (“Chanel has traditionally
an unusually large size. Each will exercised more restraint in their
689
launches”), he adds that, correctly lived in and the objects she loved. a thing, you do marketing.”
managed, Les Exclusifs make
strategic sense. And because he had been so He added, “Even when one
struck by the elegance of her apart- says one doesn’t do it, which is just
Mr. Lorenzo said, “A lot of tra- ment he named his elegant modern- another way of doing it.”
ditional players like us are worried” ized chypre after it: 31, rue
by mass market perfumers, “who Cambon.Sitting in the living room But in sales Chanel is taking a
churn things out all the time with there, Mr. Polge pointed to risk. According to the NPD Group,
no content and no beauty but com- Chanel’s lacquered 17th-century which provides market data on the
mercial appeal for a short-term Chinese wooden screens called fragrance business, Chanel No. 5
win.” coromandel which he saw so many was second and Coco
years ago, and noted that he gave Mademoiselle sixth of the top 10
“For the high-end players who this name to another of his per- selling fragrances in 2006, with
believe in luxury and scarcity and fumes, an unclassifiable rich scent Chance in the top 20. Will the
real design and a perfumery about of tangy fruit peel, amber and, nat- Exclusifs collection divert the
creative fragrances that will sur- urally, burnished wood. Chanel customer and thus hurt the
prise people, this could work well,” status of its market leaders?
he said. “There’s an element of rar- Bel Respiro, his green scent,
ity and high end in their proposi- which smells of hyacinth and fresh- Karen Grant, the senior beauty
tion." cut grass, was named after Chanel’s industry analyst at NPD, believes
country house in Garche, just out- not. “I think it’s going to be a niche
Kate Greene, the vice president side Paris. (She housed the com- part of their business,” she said.
for marketing fine fragrances in poser Stravinsky there.)
North America at Givaudan, said Les Exclusifs also represent a
that 800 new fragrances are expect- And he did an iris and decided subtler strategic gambit: position-
ed to make their appearance in to name it 28 La Pausa after a house ing. “Chanel is trying to establish
2007. Yet Chanel’s collection, she Chanel built on the Côte d’Azur, the role of the perfumer taking the
said, is “great for that part of the whose gardens were filled with iris- lead, whereas the craze on the
industry in search of innovation.” es. lower end is with the celebrity per-
fumes,” Ms. Grant said. “It’s estab-
All six of Mr. Polge’s new Les Mr. Polge’s most traditional lishing the perfumer, making a
Exclusifs represent ideas that fasci- scent, his Eau de Cologne, is the statement."
nated him. only new Exclusif available in a
400-milliliter splash, at $300, and It is Mr. Polge who selects,
“What interested me intellectu- the only one not anchored in a part buys and in some cases even
ally,” he said of one, "was to create of Chanel’s life. “I just felt every designs the raw materials he has put
a chypre,” a family of fragrances, perfumer should have an eau de in Les Exclusifs. For the last scent
“that characterizes a certain ele- cologne,” he said with a laugh. he got up and led the way through
gance, but to challenge myself to the Ritz and across to 18, place
do it without the traditional chypre Mr. Polge readily talks about Vendôme, the Chanel jewelry bou-
oak moss.” He took a journey his hope for the widest possible tique, which opened in 1997.
through the patrimony of Chanel: appreciation of Les Exclusifs.
the places she went, the houses she “From the moment you want to sell Upstairs, Mr. Polge sprays it on

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a blotter and asks, “Do you smell have seven blotters on my desk,
jewels in my No. 18?” and the per- things I’m smelling right now. Six
fume does in fact have an angular are Les Exclusifs."
construction with a crystalline
character like a translucent stone.

Some figures in the perfume

business noted that such collections
are not new. “It’s interesting to see
that Chanel with Les Exclusifs has
today an approach identical to
Hermès with its Hermessences,”
super-high-end perfumes reserved
for the brand’s own stores, said
Olivier Monteil, a spokesman for
Hermès.

Hermès began its line in 2004.

Its seventh Hermessence is to join
the collection in November.

And Ms. Grant of NPD

observed, “We’ve seen a few pres-
tige brands that have come out with
wardrobes of fragrance Marc
Jacobs, Thierry Mugler’s trio of
Stars so this is not a new trend.”
But, she said, “the collection is so
large and the price point so exclu-
sive, it is in harmony with Chanel.”

Ms. Greene of Givaudan noted

the Armani Privé, Dior and single-
note Prada collections. But she
described Les Exclusifs as funda-
mentally different.

“This may be the way for peo-

ple to appreciate perfume, the anti-
commoditization, true luxury piece
of perfume,” she said.

“At this instant,” she added, “I

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Paris - invents new Chanel perfumes. ally large size, for $175.

His latest project was inspired With the collection, Polge

T 31 RUE CAMBON, NEAR THE in a roundabout way by his first restores four Chanel fragrances that
A PLACE DE LA CONCORDE and encounter with the Chanel apart- had disappeared: Chanel No.22,
on the third floor above the Chanel ment. from 1922, which Beaux created
store, there is an apartment with the year after he created No.5. The
exquisite 17th century Chinese "I was new at Chanel, and I was other three Chanel perfumes are
wooden screens, no kitchen and no very surprised by this decor," he also from the '20s: the rich leather
bedroom. Jacques Polge is the said. He was impressed by the rich Cuir de Russie, the green floral
Chanel perfumer, and he knows the and detailed silver and gold boxes, Gardenia and the spicy Bois des
apartment well because it belonged Art Deco furniture and leather- Iles.
to the woman everyone at Chanel bound books, which stood out
refers to as "Mademoiselle." against the celadon-colored walls. To complement them he has
created six new Chanel perfumes,
Coco Chanel slept and ate at "I said, 'What's that, and what's almost doubling the number of
the Ritz, but she entertained here: this?'" Polge said. "I was thinking, post-World War II Chanels "in
Dinner was brought in by servants. 'I wonder how these objects are print." Among those are Coco,
During one visit by Polge, while represented in her perfumes,' not Coco Mademoiselle and No.19.
the apartment was closed and off only the ones that still existed but
limits to all but the most trusted also those that were no longer In the scent business the collec-
insiders, he noticed the screens. sold." tion is regarded as an audacious
That was years ago, however, and Polge sought to answer those move. "A 10-perfume collection is
that is getting ahead of the story. questions recently at 31 rue a huge number," said Alain
Cambon with the release of a col- Lorenzo, the president of Parfums
Since 1978, Polge has exer- lection of 10 perfumes called Les Givenchy France. "Perhaps they
cised a unique power in the indus- Exclusifs. There will be no market- felt a single perfume wouldn't make
try. He alone both curates and ing and no ads, and the perfumes an impact."
guards the work of his two and are being sold only in Chanel bou-
there were only two Chanel per- tiques and at Bergdorf Goodman, But if Lorenzo expresses sur-
fumer predecessors, Ernest Beaux most of them in 200-milliliter spray prise by saying "Chanel has tradi-
and Henri Robert. Polge also bottles of eau de toilette, an unusu- tionally exercised more restraint in

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their launches" he adds that, cor- Sitting in the living room there,
rectly managed, Les Exclusifs Polge pointed to the lacquered 17th
make strategic sense. century coromandel screens that he
saw so many years ago, and noted
"A lot of traditional players that he gave this name Coromandel
like us are worried" by mass mar- to another of his perfumes, an
ket perfumers "who churn things unclassifiable rich scent of tangy
out all the time with no content and fruit peel, amber and, naturally,
no beauty but commercial appeal burnished wood.
for a short-term win," Lorenzo said.
Bel Respiro, his green scent,
"For the high-end players who which smells of hyacinth and fresh-
believe in luxury and scarcity and cut grass, was named after Chanel's
real design and a perfumery about country house in Garche, just out-
creative fragrances that will sur- side Paris. She housed the compos-
prise people, this could work well," er Stravinsky there. Polge also did
he said. an iris scent and decided to name it
28 La Pausa after a house Chanel
Kate Greene, the vice president built on the Cote d'Azur, whose
for marketing fine fragrances in gardens were filled with irises.
North America at Givaudan, said
that 800 new fragrances were The most traditional Polge
expected to make an appearance in scent, his Eau de Cologne, is the
2007. The Chanel collection, she only Exclusif available in a 400-
said, is "great for that part of the milliliter splash, at $300, and the
industry in search of innovation." only one not anchored in a part of
Chanel's life. "I just felt every per-
All six of Les Exclusifs repre- fumer should have an eau de
sent ideas that fascinated Polge. cologne," he said with a laugh.

"What interested me intellectu- Polge readily talks about his

ally," he said of one, "was to create hope for the widest possible appre-
a chypre," a family of fragrances, ciation of Les Exclusifs. "From the
"that characterizes a certain ele- moment you want to sell a thing,
gance, but to challenge myself to you do marketing," he said. "Even
do it without the traditional chypre when one says one doesn't do it,
oak moss." He took a journey which is just another way of doing
through the patrimony of Chanel: it."
the places, the houses and the
objects she loved. And because he
had been so struck by her apartment
he named his elegant modernized
chypre after it: 31 rue Cambon.

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New York, NY -
arisian based House of Chanel
P today announced a new series
of women's lipsticks and fragrances
designed to coincide with the
release of RJR's Camel No. 9 ciga-
rette brand. A spokesperson for
Chanel stated that the new line was
designed to accentuate female
smokers attracted to the new ciga-
rette while accommodating non-
smoking women who simply wish
to project the allure of the cigarette
smoker.
"Our new perfume, Camel No. 9,
is an exquisite blend of actual camel
urine with the tart aroma of a well
worn ashtray," stated the Chanel
spokesperson. "There is a slight touch
of nicotine added for extra allure as
well as a refreshing pick me up."
Camel No. 9 "Eau de Fumar" by
Chanel
The Chanel spokesperson stated
that, just as the RJR cigarette brand,
their line of products was also target-
ed towards a younger female audi-
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ence with an eye towards introducing
teens and preteens to cosmetics.
Chanel dismissed concerns over the
inclusion of small quantities of nico-
tine in their products stating that the
FDA had not as yet chosen to regulate
nicotine as a drug. As a precaution,
however, surgeon general warnings
will be discretely placed on all pack-
aging.
"We're looking forward to a
tremendous hit with this line, as our
pre-marketing surveys have been out
of the roof, particularly with girls in
the 12 to 16 age group," stated the
Chanel spokesperson.
Chanel went on to say that pre-
liminary studies were underway to
investigate the feasibility of possible
future tie-ins with other feminine care
products as well as birth control.
694
Paris - had disappeared: Chanel No. 22 ed to make their appearance in
(from 1922), which Beaux created 2007. Yet Chanel's collection, she
the year after he created No. 5. The says, is "great for that part of the
aCQUES POLGE IS THE CHANEL other three Chanel perfumes are industry in search of innovation."
J PERFUMER, and he knows the also from the '20s: the rich Cuir de
apartment at 31, rue Cambon, well. Russie, the floral Gardenia and the Most of Polge's six new Les
It belonged to the woman everyone spicy Bois des Iles. Exclusifs are anchored in a part of
at Chanel refers to as Chanel's life. Because he had been
"Mademoiselle." To complement them he has so struck by the elegance of her
created six new Chanel perfumes, apartment, he named his elegant
Coco Chanel slept and ate at almost doubling the number of modernized chypre (sandalwood
the Ritz, but she entertained here. post-World War II Chanels "in scent) after it: 31, rue Cambon.
print." (Among those are Coco,
Since 1978, Polge has exer- Coco Mademoiselle and No.19.) Bel Respiro, his green scent,
cised a unique power in the indus- which smells of hyacinth and fresh-
try. He alone both curates and In the scent business the collec- cut grass, was named after Chanel's
guards the work of his two Chanel tion is regarded as an audacious country house in Garche, just out-
perfumer predecessors, Ernest move. "A 10-perfume collection is side Paris.
Beaux and Henri Robert. He also a huge number," says Alain
invents new Chanel perfumes. Lorenzo, the president of Parfums And he did an iris and decided
Givenchy France. "Perhaps they to name it 28 La Pausa after a house
His latest project was the felt a single perfume wouldn't Chanel built on the Cote d'Azur,
release last month of a collection of make an impact." whose gardens were filled with iris-
10 perfumes called Les Exclusifs. es.
The perfumes are sold only in But Lorenzo adds that, correct-
Chanel boutiques and at Bergdorf ly managed, Les Exclusifs make Polge's most traditional scent,
Goodman, in 200-milliliter spray strategic sense. his Eau de Cologne, is the only new
bottles of eau de toilette for $175 Exclusif available in a 400-milli-
each. Kate Greene, the vice president liter splash, at $300, and the only
for marketing fine fragrances in one not anchored in a part of
With the collection Polge North America at Givaudan, says Chanel's life. "I just felt every per-
restores four Chanel fragrances that that 800 new fragrances are expect- fumer should have an eau de

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cologne," he says with a laugh.

In sales Chanel is taking a risk.

According to the NPD Group,
which provides market data on the
fragrance business, Chanel No. 5
was second and Coco
Mademoiselle sixth of the top 10
selling fragrances in 2006, with
Chance in the top 20. "Chanel is
trying to establish the role of the
perfumer taking the lead, whereas
the craze on the lower end is with
the celebrity perfumes," says Karen
Grant, of NPD. "It's establishing
the perfumer, making a statement."

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 WOMAN WHO her childhood, early womanhood, The third film involves Danièle
S HE WAS THE
DEFINED STyle and ruled over and the people who shaped her.
Parisian haute couture for nearly
Thompson, director of the French
comedy Fauteuils d’orchestre, reti-
six decades, inventing French chic It will show how she was born tled in the English-language market
with her little black dress, famous into poverty, the illegitimate as Orchestra Seats or Avenue
suit and turtleneck sweaters. daughter of a travelling salesman, Montaigne.
and how her dream had been to be
Now, 26 years after Coco a cabaret singer. It was in a Roman
Chanel’s death, three rival films are Catholic orphanage, where she was
being made about the designer’s abandoned by her father after her
life, it emerged at the Cannes Film mother’s death, that she learnt to
Festival yesterday. sew.

One involves Christopher She opened a millinery shop in

Hampton, Oscar-winning film-
maker and one of Britain’s fore-
most writer-directors. He is fresh
from finishing the screen-play for
Atonement, adapted from Ian
McEwan’s novel and starring Keira
Knightley, and is working on a
script about Chanel with the French
director Anne Fontaine.
Audrey Tautou, the French star
of Amélie and The Da Vinci Code,
will play Chanel. Hampton says
that she bears a striking resem-
blance to her. He is involved in a
$15 million (£7.5 million) produc-
tion that focuses on the early years
of Gabrielle Chanel (1883-1971)
Deauville in 1913. Her designs,
which emphasised simplicity and
comfort, revolutionised the fashion
industry for the next 30 years.
Costume pearls, the bouclé suit and
No 5 perfume were among the
enduring Chanel elements.
One of the rival productions,
Coco & Igor, is based on a book
published in 2002 by Chris
Greenhalgh. It will star Marina
Hands. The subject is an unexpect-
ed choice for its director, William
Friedkin, whose previous films
include The Exorcist and The
French Connection.

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 HE LITTLE BLACK DRESS, TWEED already racing on into the 21st. For Chanel style, someone who
T SUITS, costume jewellery and
red lipstick we owe them all to Coco Chanel in trademark
has never shopped further upmar-
ket than Marks & Spencer can still
Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel. As a new ropes of pearls in a 1935 Man Ray buy a bottle of No 5 at duty-free, or
book celebrates her signature style, portrait a black powder compact at the
Linda Grant assesses the legacy of make-up department of John
fashion's very arch modernist The moment you say the word Lewis. A man I know, who has
Chanel a picture comes to mind: of been wearing the same uniform of
In the autumn of 2005 I attend- a square, stoppered perfume bottle, jeans and leather jacket since the
ed the launch party for Justine a little suit, a white camellia. Coco 1960s, has as his one concession to
Picardie's entrancing new book Chanel, credited with being the fashion the Chanel Homme after-
about the history of all the clothes person who invented modern shave he has loyally stuck to for 30
she had ever worn, My Mother's clothes, stamped her adamant, dis- years because he likes the simple
Wedding Dress: the Life and tinctive personality on everything classic lines of its packaging.
Afterlife of Clothes. Picardie's she touched. An addictive new
mother had, far back in the 1960s, book, Chanel: Collections and It's hard to underestimate how
got married in a little black dress, Creations, by Danièle Bott, much Chanel style has changed us
now faithfully copied for her explores five designs that changed all. The black dress existed before
daughter to wear at the party. The the world and asks what it was Chanel turned her attention to it,
launch was held at the Chanel store about Chanel's visual statements but it was considered funereal and,
in Knightsbridge, and it was a trib- that are so enduring and alluring. in the years before the First World
ute to the power of a single word - Students of fashion can identify War, buried under bows, pleats,
Chanel - that almost every woman Dior's New Look, Yves Saint lace, bustles and leg-of-mutton
in the room was wearing a little Laurent's le Smoking, sleeves. What Chanel meant was a
black dress. Black had just made a Schiaparelli's skeleton dress or dress that was minimalist, sophisti-
comeback, but for many of us it Jean Paul Gaultier's conical bra, cated, elegant, to be worn at any
had simply never gone away. The but such is the power of the Chanel time of day. Reacting against the
LBD, so easy to wear, so versatile brand that if you showed those two sumptuous designs of her immedi-
in its possible interpretations as intertwined Cs to any woman in ate predecessor, Paul Poiret, she
fashions come and go, is probably any city in the world she would advocated what she called 'austere
the single most enduring style recognise them at once. luxury', the essence of chic. Her
statement of the 20th century, revolutionary approach to design

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meant that the black dress could be
worn as day, cocktail and evening
wear. 'A woman dressed in black
draws attention to herself, not her
dress,' observes Bott.
The very first LBD, the Ford of
dresses, she called it, referring to
the Model T car built on a produc-
tion line for the masses, was
designed to be democratic; any
woman could wear one. The origi-
nal design shows a long-sleeved,
slim-hipped dress, gathered low at
the waist and reaching to just below
the knee. Its only adornments are
two pleated Vs dropping from the
shoulders and rising from the hem,
meeting in the middle to further
create the illusion of slimness. You
could step out in it today and no
one would notice that you were
wearing something designed more
than 80 years ago. Chanel would
develop this concept for the rest of
her life, altering the fabrics, adding
sequins or chiffon trains, but the
underlying structure remained. A
black dress, with dropped waist and
schoolgirl white collars and cuffs,
worn over leather footless tights
from 2003 reveals how radical her
thought was. 'A fashion that goes
out of fashion overnight is a dis-
traction, not a fashion,' she said.
Chanel's beauty packaging
remains much the same today as it
was 80 years ago
Chanel launched her career at
the height of modernism, in design,
art, literature and music. By return-
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
ing to the essential form, the move-
ment showed radical simplicity.
Modernism was the thinking
woman's fashion statement, and
derived its power from the idea that
women were no longer to be whol-
ly decorative. They could act, and
needed clothes to wear while doing
so. Chanel herself designed things
not as playful allusions to what had
gone before but to meet the
demands of her own life and body.
When Karl Lagerfeld arrived at
Chanel in 1982, there seemed to be
no more unlikely a designer to lead
the house. A master of post-mod-
ernism, he was the opposite of
everything Chanel stood for, yet his
greatest triumph was the revival of
the Chanel suit.
My mother, slim and only 5ft
2in, had a wardrobe full of good-
quality high-street copies of the
Chanel suit. She knew they were
what suited her best and she hung
on to them long after they went out
of fashion. The Chanel suit dates
from the reopening of the fashion
house in 1954 (it had closed during
the war), but it was Jackie Kennedy
who made it famous. In jersey and
tweed, with its collarless jacket and cosmetics show the designs to be
slim skirt, it was meant to be a kind startling similar to today's. The No
of second skin. Worn with a quilted
chain-handle bag, two-tone sling-
backs and a camellia brooch, it was
a look as simple and sophisticated
as the little back dress, but less
dressed-up. Chanel insisted that
every suit had pockets into which a
woman's hand could actually fit, A 1930s gold, sapphire and ruby
the jacket hem was weighted to bangle
699
ensure it hung properly, and the
only concession to embellishment
was the gilt buttons embossed with
lion's head, stars, the sun or double
C.
Lagerfeld radically reinterpret-
ed the suit, making it in pink tweed,
fraying the hems and jacket edges
(a trend that worked its way to the
Per Una range at Marks &
Spencer), and in the process turned
it into one of the most celebrated
comebacks in the history of fash-
ion.
One thing Chanel was quite
clear about was her dislike of the
unadorned face: 'I don't understand
how a woman can leave the house
without fixing herself up a little - if
only out of politeness,' she said.
She regarded the lips as the primary
weapons of seduction and insisted
on painting them a deep vermillion.
As far back as 1921 she made her
first stick of colour, protected in
wax paper, the precursor of the lip-
stick as we know it today. Next she
made for herself a mother-of-pearl
tube, then a push-up case in gun-
metal grey. Pictures of her early
5 bottle remains unchanged since
the 1920s. The black boxes she
used for her powder and eyeshadow
go back as far as 1932, and were
made from Bakelite, then being
used in car manufacturing.
 But Chanel did not entirely embroidered on a blouse. Every
eschew adornment. She was an season it appears as a jewelled
inveterate wearer of necklaces, and monogram on a toe or beaded out-
the lavish, even Byzantine luxury line on the heel of a Chanel shoe.
of her jewellery contrasted with the Like the lotus in Buddhism, the
minimalist lines of her clothing. camellia expressed for Chanel a
The spectacular Comète necklace shape with infinite possibilities.
of 1932 is a diamond star from And so she goes on, the way she
which a cascade trail of 649 dia- saw and thought affecting the lives
monds drapes itself round the of millions unborn when she first
shoulder, arching at the neck and discarded what was known and set
ending at the base of the throat. It is out on an adventure into the future.
interesting that Chanel, who adored
the minimalist form, should have Chanel Collections and
thrown pearls and gold chains all Creations' (Thames & Hudson,
over her severe canvas. Bott offers £19.95), by Danièle Bott, is avail-
some suggestions: in the 1930s able from Telegraph Books (0870
Chanel had accepted a commission 428 4112) at £17.95 plus £1.25
from the International Diamond p&p
Guild, which she took because she
felt that, in times of economic
depression, too much austerity
was… depressing. Another possi-
bility is that her lover, Paul Iribe,
was a jewellery designer. But per-
haps there is a more material con-
sideration: before she was a major
designer she was a courtesan, the
lover of wealthy men such as the
Duke of Westminster who, in the
tradition of the times, rewarded her
affections with gifts of diamonds.

Yet her originality would hit on

one emblem, the camellia, which in
her hands became a necklace, a
watch, a hat, a chignon, a detail on
a button, or just a silk flower
pinned to a dress. There was some-
thing radically simple about its
shape, what Bott calls 'its perfect,
almost geometric roundness'. As far
back as 1922 a stylised camellia is

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 T 31, rue Cambon, near the
A Place de la Concorde and on
the third floor above the Chanel
store, there is an apartment with
exquisite 17th-century Chinese
wooden screens, no kitchen and no
bedroom. Jacques Polge is the
Chanel perfumer, and he knows the
apartment well because it belonged
to the woman everyone at Chanel
refers to as “Mademoiselle.”
Coco Chanel slept and ate at
the Ritz, but she entertained here.
(Dinner was brought in by ser-
vants.) On one of Mr. Polge’s vis-
its, while the apartment was closed
and off limits to all but the most
trusted insiders, he noticed the
screens. That was years ago, how-
ever, and that is getting ahead of
the story.
Since 1978, Mr. Polge has
exercised a unique power in the
industry. He alone both curates and
guards the work of his two (only
two) Chanel perfumer predeces-
sors, Ernest Beaux and Henri
Robert. He also invents new
Chanel perfumes.
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
His latest project was inspired cost $175.
in a roundabout way by his first
encounter with Chanel’s apartment. With the collection Mr. Polge
restores four Chanel fragrances that
“I was new at Chanel, and I had disappeared: Chanel No. 22
was very surprised by this décor,” (from 1922), which Mr. Beaux cre-
he said. He was impressed by the ated the year after he created No. 5.
rich and detailed silver and gold The other three Chanel perfumes
boxes, luxurious Art Deco furni- are also from the ’20s: the rich
ture and leather-bound books, leather Cuir de Russie, the green
which stood out against the apart- floral Gardénia and the spicy Bois
ment’s celadon walls. des Îles.
“I said, ‘What’s that, and To complement them he has
what’s this?’ ” Mr. Polge said. “I created six new Chanel perfumes,
was thinking, ‘I wonder how these almost doubling the number of
objects are represented in her per- post-World War II Chanels “in
fumes,’ not only the ones that still print.” (Among those are Coco,
existed but also those that were no Coco Mademoiselle and No. 19.)
longer sold.”
In the scent business the collec-
On Feb. 12, Mr. Polge tried to tion is regarded as an audacious
answer the questions he posed to move. “A 10-perfume collection is
himself at 31, rue Cambon with the a huge number,” said Alain
release of a collection of 10 per- Lorenzo, the president of Parfums
fumes called Les Exclusifs. There Givenchy France. “Perhaps they
will be no marketing and no ads, felt a single perfume wouldn’t
and the perfumes will be sold only make an impact.”
in Chanel boutiques and at
Bergdorf Goodman, in 200-milli- But if Mr. Lorenzo expresses
liter spray bottles of eau de toilette, surprise (“Chanel has traditionally
an unusually large size. Each will exercised more restraint in their
701
launches”), he adds that, correctly lived in and the objects she loved. appreciation of Les Exclusifs.
managed, Les Exclusifs make “From the moment you want to sell
strategic sense. And because he had been so a thing, you do marketing.”
struck by the elegance of her apart-
Mr. Lorenzo said, “A lot of tra- ment he named his elegant modern- He added, “Even when one
ditional players like us are worried” ized chypre after it: 31, rue says one doesn’t do it, which is just
by mass market perfumers, “who Cambon. another way of doing it.”
churn things out all the time with
no content and no beauty but com- Sitting in the living room there, But in sales Chanel is taking a
mercial appeal for a short-term Mr. Polge pointed to Chanel’s lac- risk. According to the NPD Group,
win.” quered 17th-century Chinese which provides market data on the
wooden screens called coromandel fragrance business, Chanel No. 5
“For the high-end players who which he saw so many years ago, was second and Coco
believe in luxury and scarcity and and noted that he gave this name to Mademoiselle sixth of the top 10
real design and a perfumery about another of his perfumes, an unclas- selling fragrances in 2006, with
creative fragrances that will sur- sifiable rich scent of tangy fruit Chance in the top 20. Will the
prise people, this could work well,” peel, amber and, naturally, bur- Exclusifs collection divert the
he said. “There’s an element of rar- nished wood. Chanel customer and thus hurt the
ity and high end in their proposi- status of its market leaders?
tion." Bel Respiro, his green scent,
which smells of hyacinth and fresh- Karen Grant, the senior beauty
Kate Greene, the vice president cut grass, was named after Chanel’s industry analyst at NPD, believes
for marketing fine fragrances in country house in Garche, just out- not. “I think it’s going to be a niche
North America at Givaudan, said side Paris. (She housed the com- part of their business,” she said.
that 800 new fragrances are expect- poser Stravinsky there.)
ed to make their appearance in Les Exclusifs also represent a
2007. Yet Chanel’s collection, she And he did an iris and decided subtler strategic gambit: position-
said, is “great for that part of the to name it 28 La Pausa after a house ing. “Chanel is trying to establish
industry in search of innovation.” Chanel built on the Côte d’Azur, the role of the perfumer taking the
whose gardens were filled with iris- lead, whereas the craze on the
All six of Mr. Polge’s new Les es. lower end is with the celebrity per-
Exclusifs represent ideas that fasci- fumes,” Ms. Grant said. “It’s estab-
nated him. Mr. Polge’s most traditional lishing the perfumer, making a
scent, his Eau de Cologne, is the statement."
“What interested me intellectually,” only new Exclusif available in a It is Mr. Polge who selects,
he said of one, "was to create a 400-milliliter splash, at $300, and buys and in some cases even
chypre,” a family of fragrances, the only one not anchored in a part designs the raw materials he has put
“that characterizes a certain ele- of Chanel’s life. “I just felt every in Les Exclusifs. For the last scent
gance, but to challenge myself to perfumer should have an eau de he got up and led the way through
do it without the traditional chypre cologne,” he said with a laugh. the Ritz and across to 18, place
oak moss.” He took a journey Vendôme, the Chanel jewelry bou-
through the patrimony of Chanel: Mr. Polge readily talks about tique, which opened in 1997.
the places she went, the houses she his hope for the widest possible

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 Upstairs, Mr. Polge sprays it on “At this instant,” she added, “I
a blotter and asks, “Do you smell have seven blotters on my desk,
jewels in my No. 18?” and the per- things I’m smelling right now. Six
fume does in fact have an angular are Les Exclusifs."
construction with a crystalline
character like a translucent stone.

Some figures in the perfume

business noted that such collections
are not new. “It’s interesting to see
that Chanel with Les Exclusifs has
today an approach identical to
Hermès with its Hermessences,”
super-high-end perfumes reserved
for the brand’s own stores, said
Olivier Monteil, a spokesman for
Hermès.

Hermès began its line in 2004.

Its seventh Hermessence is to join
the collection in November.

And Ms. Grant of NPD

observed, “We’ve seen a few pres-
tige brands that have come out with
wardrobes of fragrance Marc
Jacobs, Thierry Mugler’s trio of
Stars so this is not a new trend.”
But, she said, “the collection is so
large and the price point so exclu-
sive, it is in harmony with Chanel.”

Ms. Greene of Givaudan noted

the Armani Privé, Dior and single-
note Prada collections. But she
described Les Exclusifs as funda-
mentally different.

“This may be the way for peo-

ple to appreciate perfume, the anti-
commoditization, true luxury piece
of perfume,” she said.

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Manila - Philippines Hadrien line contains seven key ter,” said Knightley in a statement
products: perfumed body cream, to the press. “Coco Mademoiselle
body scrub, body oil, body spray, has character and temperament. It’s
conditioning shampoo, scented a fresh, clean, delicate and subtle
D ESPITE THE WIDE VARIETY OF
PERFUMES on the market,
many women still have a difficult
candle, and of course, the concen-
trated perfume version of the scent.
scent that isn’t aggressive. It’s
young and modern. In that sense,
time choosing their signature scent, To mark the anniversary of one of the perfume matches me perfectly.”
claiming that some perfumes are its most famous scents, Annick
too sweet, flowery or musky. Goutal Paris commissioned artist She continued, “Coco
However, there’s no denying that Caroline Rennequin to hand-paint Mademoiselle is a fragrance that
the perfumes out on the market 1,000 bottles of Eau d’ Hadrien. you can wear both in the day wear-
now are definitely more unusual The bottles, considered to be col- ing jeans, or in the evening in an
than the ones that our grandmoth- lector’s items, are painted with elegant dress. And that’s definitely
ers wore decades ago. There are fruit-laden lemon trees and are an advantage.”
scents for women who prefer fresh, topped with gilded gold butterflies.
clean scents as well as for those Coco Mademoiselle is
who would rather stick to the clas- Chanel, on the other hand, described as a scent with top notes
sic musky perfumes. tapped Keira Knightley as the latest of citrus, followed by floral under-
endorser of its Coco Mademoiselle tones. The notes blended into the
Rustan’s Department store perfume. The actress, who is best scent include rose, oriental jasmine,
recently relaunched two perfumes: known for her roles in movies such vanilla bourbon, Indonesian
Eau d’ Hadrien by Annick Goutal, as “Pride and Prejudice” and patchouli and white musk. Aside
and Coco Mademoiselle by “Pirates of the Caribbean,” was from the traditional bottle of per-
Chanel. Eau d’ Hadrien, a fresh cit- selected as the latest face of the fume, the scent is also available in a
rus-based cologne with notes of Chanel perfume. She follows in the compact as solid perfume, and in a
lemon, grapefruit, citron and footsteps of actresses such as small decanter as purse perfume,
cypress, is celebrating its 25th year Catherine Deneuve and Nicole which has a higher concentration
as an iconic perfume with a new Kidman with the campaign, where than the usual bottled perfumes.
range of limited-edition products she is depicted as a sultry, mysteri-
and packaging. ous woman.

The limited-edition Eau d’ “I like fragrances with charac-

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 VER THE SORCERESS OF STYLE, silk screens by Andy Warhol. Première is a fragrance you can
E SHE CHOSE HAUNTING SCENTS
FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD JASMINE But now the House of Chanel
wear all day long."

AND LUSH PINK MAY ROSES from the has recalibrated its classic fra- But some things don't change.
medieval Provençal town of grance in a new product called No. "A woman looks for mystery in a
Grasse, creamy yellow ylang-ylang 5 Eau Première. Retaining the fragrance," Sheldrake says.
blossoms from the Comoro Islands essential character of the original
off the east coast of Africa, rum- while refreshing its appeal was a
A journalist once asked
scented tonka beans from South job for Chanel's venerable master
Marilyn Monroe what she wore to
America, vanilla and sandalwood, perfumer, Jacques Polge, known in
bed, and she cooed, "Just a few
and a rich mélange of other ingre- the rarefied world of scent as the
drops of No. 5." It's the ineffable je
dients and blended them all into a Nose. ne sais quoi of Chanel No. 5 that
sensuous fragrance that instantly has ensured its timeless appeal, and
captivated le tout Paris. "We needed to re-interpret a truly beguiling mystery never
Chanel No. 5 for the modern era," grows old
Chanel, photographed by Cecil says Christopher Sheldrake,
Beaton in her Paris apartment, Polge's deputy, or as he puts it the
April 1965. Condé Nast Archive. second nose of Chanel.

Created at the dawn of the The result of their alchemy is a

Roaring 20s, Chanel No. 5 was as
modern a perfume as Coco
Chanel's revolutionary clothes
were the harbingers of a new era in
fashion for sexy, emancipated
women. Launched in 1921, Chanel
No. 5 is the best-selling scent in the
world as well as a groundbreaking
icon of design; its sleek, androgy-
nous packaging was exhibited at
New York's Museum of Modern
Art and immortalized in a series of
youthful fragrance whose effect is
brightened by the orange-flower-
oil neroli and Damascene roses
from Turkey and Bulgaria, which
have a fresher, greener aroma than
the honeyed May roses.
"No. 5 can be like one's moth-
er's fragrance, and Eau Première is
certainly younger," Sheldrake
explains. "No. 5 can also be an
evening fragrance, but Eau

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 OT SURPRISINGLY, CHANEL Nº5 wanted to forget about the World a kept woman. We may therefore
N the legendary “most-worn”
perfume of all time is surrounded
War I, in 1920 it was the Russian
nobility that wanted to forget the
well anticipate that she did not use
perfumes herself. Did she get a per-
by countless legends, including a Bolshevik coup. It was an ideal fume as a present from Pavlovitch?
mixing error by Beaux’s assistant, occasion for Chanel to promote her Was it Rallet Nº1, a perfume
who added pure aldehydes rather fashion and to be seen with her famous at the Russian Imperial
than the prescribed 10% solution. friends, all dressed up “in Chanel.” Court, a perfume created in
Another story goes that Mlle One of these friends, singer Mathe Moscow some seven years earlier
Chanel chose of the fifth bottle Davelli, claimed to have intro- by Beaux and launched in 1913
from two rows of scents numbered duced Chanel to the Grand Duke under the name Bouquet de
1 to 5 and 20 to 24 because five Dimitri Pavlovitch, first cousin of Catherine by A. Rallet & Co. of
was her lucky number. And yet Tsar Nicolas II. In the summer of Moscow?
another legend has it that Beaux’s 1920, Chanel began a love affair
inspiration for Chanel Nº5 came with Pavlovitch who was 11 years The Birth of Rallet Nº1
during military action beyond the her junior. It lasted about a year. It
Arctic Circle, when the midnight is said that Pavlovitch introduced The timing of the Bouquet de
sun released an extremely fresh Chanel to Beaux on the beach at Catherine launch was unfortunate.
scent from the lakes. Cannes during a short trip to the When, in 1914, war broke out with
Côte d’Azur, but here is where the Germany, sentiment in Russia was
What we know for sure is that story becomes murky. fiercely anti-German.10 One target
the story of Chanel Nº5 began in of this hatred was the Empress
Biarritz, France, which had become Since her days with Etienne Alexandra, a German who, while
the meeting place for an unlikely Balsan in Royallieu, near fiercely patriotic to Russia, had
mix of Russian nobility that had Compiègne, France, Chanel avoid- long been disliked by peasants and
managed to escape the massacres ed pearls and lace to hide that she nobles alike for her puritanical
following the collapse of Tsarist was a kept woman. At the time she ways and appearance of cold
Russia. Biarritz was flourishing spent her days riding horseback in detachment to her subjects.
and so was the boutique which the French countryside and is Regrettably for Rallet, Catherine
Chanel had opened there in reported to have said that women the Great had also been German.
September 1915 her second, after perfume themselves only to hide Thus, rather than being a repeat of
Deauville, France. While in 1915 it bad smells. Perfumes, too, may Beaux’s Le Bouquet de Napoléon
was the French high society that have suggested to her the status of success, Le Bouquet de Catherine

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disappeared into the fog of war and and the jasmine-rose accord inces- cations developed between 1919
revolution. santly. Beaux certainly followed a and 1921, and may indeed stem
well-considered and systematic rom the series numbered 20 to 24.
Beaux made no mention of the path in balancing aldehydic and flo-
fragrance in his 1946 biography.8a ral complexes, and the floral heart Rallet was acquired by Coty in
Instead, a “new” perfume emerged, built around jasmine, rose de mai, 1926 and, inspired by the interna-
Rallet Nº1, perhaps first launched orris, ylang-ylang and lily of the tional success of Chanel Nº5,
as the eau de cologne version Rallet valley was certainly inspired by Vincent Roubert reinterpreted the
O-De-Kolon Nº1 Vesovoi, which Quelques Fleurs, although Bouquet Rallet Nº1 concept, resulting in
was “sold by weight” (“vesovoi”). de Catherine was far more daring L’Aimant (French for “magnet”);
The renaming of Bouquet de and revolutionary. the scent was launched in 1927 and
Catherine to Rallet Nº1 was report- relaunched in a modern bottle in
ed by Michael Edwards, who On April 4, 1924, Chanel 1995. Yet Rallet Nº1 was still in
received the information from entered into an agreement with production in the late 1940s (Photo
Marcel Carles, who had heard it Bader and Wertheimer whereby the 6 and Photo 7), most likely
from his father, Jean Carles.9 The new partners would undertake to unchanged, as Coty wanted to keep
Bouquet de Catherine or Rallet Nº1 promote “Chanel’s” perfume, and it as a luxury branch.17 In addition
was intended as the female counter- others to be introduced under her to Rallet Nº1 and Rallet Gardenia
part to the Bouquet de Napoléon. name. In return, she would receive (Photo 3), Coty launched Rallet
Beaux was inspired by the immedi- a 10% interest in the business. Chypre and Rallet No. 3, the latter
ate success, in 1912, of Quelques Parfums Chanel would now take probably close or identical to the
Fleurs by Houbigant, in which per- over the perfume business, intro- pre-1917 Rallet O-De-Kolon Nº3
fumer Robert Bienaimé had for the ducing the signature cut-glass fla- Vesovoi. In typical Coty fashion,
first time used aldehyde C-12 MNA con that had been designed by Jean these fragrances were offered in
(2-methyl undecanal). In his study Helleu for the Wertheimer five sizes, priced from $3.50 to
of Quelques Fleurs, Beaux experi- relaunch.16 In the same year, $25.00 per bottle in the United
mented with these novel materials. Beaux, who since 1922 had been States.
One cannot exclude a mixing error representing his friend Eugene
by a lab assistant, nor, as gas chro- Charabot in Paris, became technical Who was the perfumer behind
matographs had not yet been director for both Bourjois and Mademoiselle Chanel Nº1, which
invented, the possibility that Beaux Parfums Chanel. He would go on to was said to have been manufac-
initially did not have a clue about create new masterpieces for the tured in Zurich, Switzerland?15b
the usage level and simply dosed Wertheimer group including Cuir Despite his praise of the fragrance,
too high. It may be assumed, how- de Russie (1924), Gardénia (1925), which made it appear as if someone
ever, that Beaux discovered during Bois des Îles (1926) for Parfums else had compounded it, it rather
these experiments that, by employ- Chanel, and Soir de Paris (1929) looks like Beaux himself was its
ing a complex of the novel aldehy- and Kobako for Bourjois (1936). creator. The scent somehow bears
des C-110 (undecanal), C-11 Chanel Nº22, first launched in 1922 his signature: the conceptual simi-
(undec-10-en-1-al) and C-12 (in limited quantity, and 1926 offi- larity to the Rallet Nº1 theme, the
(dodecanal), he could overcome the cially) and recently re-released as use of an overdose of a novel mate-
fattiness of jasmine absolute and part of the Les Exclusifs de Chanel rial, and the fact that this novel
rose oil. Consequently, he increased series (2007), also most likely orig- material was a-n-methyl ionone,
the level of the aldehyde complex inated from the Rallet Nº1 modifi- which was available only from

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Haarmann & Reimer or Givaudan.
In addition, Beaux was a good
friend of Leon Givaudan, and
ionone isomers such as Cetone
Alpha fascinated the perfumer.
We will probably never know
for sure what Beaux did between
1940 and 1945, but who other than
Beaux could Chanel have selected
to challenge “her” Nº5? Certainly
the “Nº1” in the perfume’s name
could have been inspired by
Beaux’s original creation for Rallet.
In any case, Chanel’s tactic
worked. In truth, all she wanted
was more money from the
Wertheimers. She had no capability
of marketing Mademoiselle Chanel
Nº1 in a serious way. But she could
have caused confusion among Nº5
customers. With a sharply rising
sales curve for this perfume, Pierre
Wertheimer wished to eliminate
any risk. Flying to Europe and
meeting with Chanel’s lawyer in
1947, Wertheimer renegotiated the
1924 agreement, and Chanel
received an additional 2%. Chanel
and Wertheimer made peace. When
Chanel wanted to resurrect her cou-
ture house, Wertheimer even
backed her financially. Chanel’s
comeback collection, shown in
Paris on February 5, 1954, was a
fiasco. Pierre had to buy the cou-
ture business as well to prevent its
insolvency. Then, in New York in
1955, Chanel’s collection became
such a huge success that even the
ill-reputed costumes from the pre-
vious year sold out.
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In 1954, Henri Robert, who had
known Beaux since their days
together at La Bocca, replaced him
as Chanel’s chief perfumer.
However, Beaux (who, incidental-
ly, had used his connections to
obtain work for Russian emigrants
since the 1920s) remained involved
in Chanel Perfumes until the end of
1960 when he was discharged at
age 79.20 Deeply disappointed, he
died only a few months later, on
March 8, 1961, in his Paris apart-
ment. His funeral was held in the
south of France in the parish of
Notre Dame de Graz de Passy.21 It
is said that the church was carpeted
with roses.19 Pierre Wertheimer
died five years later, on April 24,
1965, at the age of 77. Chanel con-
tinued inexorably after her spectac-
ular comeback and brought out new
collections every year until 1971,
when, on January 10, she died in
her suite in the Ritz in Paris at the
age of 88. Her Nº5, however, still
proves immortal, a true legend as
best illustrated by the famous quote
of Marilyn Monroe in answer to the
question of what she wears at night:
“Five drops of Nº5.”
708
 Dmitri of Russia, a cousin of the him amid flasks and alembics filled
A FRIEND ONCE REMARKED THAT
HER FAVOURITE FRAGRANCE IS
CHANEL NO5.
Tsar, Gabrielle Chanel went to with fragrances in the making.
Monte Carlo to meet friends and
the meeting ended with Chanel She described what she wanted:
'I want a fragrance that smells deciding to launch a fragrance. “A woman’s fragrance that smells
like a woman.' And that was how like women.”
Chanel's founder created the cos- So it was that, in the sensual
metic brand's legendary perfume. warmth of the Midi region of Beaux created a perfume with-
Syida Lizta Amirul Ihsan unveils France, the land of flowers and lux- out a dominant note, but rich with
the history behind Chanel No5. urious opulence, No5 took root. floral scents. No fewer than 80
ingredients were used, including
She sounded snobbish the fra- Ernest Beaux, former perfumer aldehydes, used for the first time in
grance, after all, is the grand dame to the court of the Tsar, created a perfumery to enhance fragrances.
of perfumes and did you know that stunning bouquet. Some said the
it was the only thing that Marilyn name was chosen because it was Chanel chose the fifth sample,
Monroe wore to bed? but no, my the fifth sample offered by Beaux. to which she wanted added a great
friend was not showing off. The bottle designed by quantity of jasmine from Grasse,
Mademoiselle Chanel is a model of the most luxurious perfume raw
“I always take a bottle with me minimalism and simplicity. material in the world.
when I’m on an assignment over- Considered a 20th century icon, the
seas in winter. Its scent is unparal- perfume bottle was exhibited in the In 1986, Jacques Polge, the
leled, like a bouquet of sweet New York Museum of Modern Art man behind Parfums Chanel since
blooms trailing your steps. It’s per- in 1959. 1979, created the No5 Eau de
fect.” A few years later, the bottle Parfum, a contemporary interpreta-
was featured in a series of artworks tion of the original fragrance with
Here’s how No5 became the by painter Andy Warhol. lighter citrus notes and hints of
legend it is. vanilla.
Complex Composition
History Raw Materials
In 1917, Beaux set up his labo-
During the summer of 1921, ratory at La Bocca, near Grasse, Ylang-ylang, harvested In
accompanied by the Great Duke and it was here that Chanel met Madagascar and Mayotte, is anoth-

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er vital ingredient in No5. Polge After Chanel and Monroe,
uses it to create the fragrance’s other beautiful women like Candice
heady notes. Bergen, Suzy Parker, Ali McGraw,
Lauren Hutton, Jean Shrimpton,
Rosa Centifolia, a rose also Cheryl Tiegs, Catherine Deneuve,
from Grasse also known as the May Carole Bouquet and Estella Warren
rose because it flowers once a year were chosen to symbolise the per-
for three weeks in May, is another fume.
ingredient. Aldehydes are still used
to enhance scents. In 2004, Nicole Kidman took
on the role. She appeared in the
Quality Control commercial directed by Baz
Luhrman, who coincidentally also
To guarantee quality in every directed her in his movie, Moulin
bottle of perfume, Polge personally Rouge.
selects and inspects all the ingredi-
ents that go into its making. The
quality of rose and jasmine is
affected, for example, by the
weather.

He also ensures the correct for-

mula for the fragrance is used.

The baudruchage bottle sealing

method is used where a fine mem-
brane is manually attached with
two rows of black pearl cotton yarn
over the neck of the bottle to ensure
it is both air- and water-tight.

A wax stamp with the Chanel

“double C” seal is then applied to
make the bottle tamper-proof.
Chanel is the only perfumer using
this sealing method.

Publicity

Breaking from tradition, No5

appeared in a television commer-
cial for the first time in 1953.

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T HE NUMBER FIVE SEEMED TO
HAVE A SPECIAL PLACE in
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s heart.
Aside from naming her signature
fragrance Chanel No. 5, the leg-
endary fashion icon and designer
named her trademark black quilted
bag the “2.55.”
Why was Coco fixated with the
number and how did it become
associated with one of the world’s
leading luxury brands? How does
Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel’s equally
iconic if a bit eccentric creative
director, manage to continue to
make the brand fresh and exciting
for today’s current crop of fashion-
istas?
Stephanie Donnet-Couette,
Chanel’s regional marketing man-
ager for Asia and the Pacific, in a
recent symposium in Bangkok
dubbed as “Chanel, the Spirit of a
Living Brand,” discussed the sig-
nificance of the number five as
well as the brand’s other iconic
emblems and how they add to its
mystique and bottom line figures.
The event was in conjunction said Donnet-Couette. “The flower said Donnet-Couette, has remained
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with Thailand’s first-ever
“Emporium World Fashion
Showcase,” a gathering of high-
end luxury brands in a series of
fashion shows, talks and parties
organized by the Emporium
Shopping Complex.
“Gabrielle was a very supersti-
tious woman,” said Donnet-
Couette. “She considered five a
lucky number, and for a number of
good reasons.”
Not another fragrance
When she turned her attention
to fragrances in 1921, a few years
after her non-traditional approach-
es in couture were warmly received
by Paris’ fashion cognoscenti,
Coco declared that she didn’t want
another perfume with a “single-
flower scent.” Rather, she wanted a
composite woman’s fragrance,
never mind if it was artificial, that
smelled like, well, a woman.
“That was probably why she
loved to spruce up her outfits with She thus named the house’s sig-
camellias, another Chanel icon,” nature fragrance, which to this day,
711
is beautiful, but doesn’t have any
scent, which probably suited her, as
it didn’t interfere with her per-
fume.”
Coco, the occasional singershe
got her nickname from enthusiastic
fans during her salad days singing
at neighborhood cafés and former
hat designer, wasn’t acting on pure
whim. As the fashion designer who
sunbathed (even before the tanned
look became in) and freed women
from constricting corsets by intro-
ducing them to more practical yet
smart sportswear and tailored sepa-
rates, she certainly knew what she
was doing.
She lost no time commissioning
leading perfumer Ernest Beaux to
work on her dream fragrance. After
several attempts, Beaux, as far as
his headstrong client was con-
cerned, got it right on his fifth try.
He still had a few more combina-
tions to explore, but Coco asked
him to stop since she already got
what she wanted.
extremely saleable (one bottle hardly breathe,” said Donnet- white pieces season after season.
every 30 seconds the world over!), Couette. “She shocked them in
Chanel No. 5 in honor of her return by sporting short hair and The Bangkok talk also included
favorite number, and because of the designing and wearing sportswear a documentary that showed
fact that it was literally created onmade of lightweight jersey, which, Lagerfeld and his team at work.
the perfumer’s fifth attempt. during that time, was only used as Although the film was in French,
material for men’s underwear. one couldn’t help but be amused as
“Gabrielle was what we would Women, however, warmed up to well as amazed at the power the old
call today ahead of her time,” said the idea before long.” man wields over his subjects-cum-
Donnet-Couette. “Not only did she collaborators. It also showed how
defy conventions, she sought inspi- Coco could swing both ways dedicated and tradition-bound he
rations from the most unlikely with ease, fashion-wise, that is. and his team are.
places and people.” While she’s best known for
women’s tweed jackets, sailing There was a poignant scene in
And that included, of course, jumpers and embroidered or fur- the documentary reminiscent of
her string of lovers such as Etienne lined coats with hints of masculine Miranda Priestly, the haughty mag-
Balsan (equestrienne-inspired out- energy no doubt influenced by azine editor in the film “The Devil
fits), Arthur “Boy” Capel, the Duke either rummaging through or bor- Wears Prada,” that left members of
of Westminster (tailored suits) and rowing items from her lovers’ clos- the audience either agape or in
the Grand Duke Dimitri of Russia ets she also made her mark in fash- stitches.
(multiple strands of pearls, both ion by introducing women to the
real and fake). little black dress. As Lagerfeld, trailed by two
assistants, makes his way to his
She also spent time with lead- Bright colors didn’t excite her top-floor office on rue Cambon, the
ing artistic luminaries of the day, as much as black and/or white did. building’s frantic telephone opera-
collaborating with the likes of Their beauty, she once declared, is tor calls every department head to
Cocteau and Picasso and providing absolute. She went on to say that tell them “Monsieur Lagerfeld is
financial support to Stravinsky, the woman dressed in either black headed your way.” In short, be pre-
Diaghilev, Radiguet and Pierre or white gets all the attention at a pared!
Reverdy. ball.
For all his seeming attempts to
When the Paris-based Coco Countless versions appear aloof, Lagerfeld appears to
was much younger, she opened a be well liked by the staff. Or at
second shop that sold hats in Perhaps, no one best under- least, they respect him enough to
Deauville, a seaside resort townstands her design sensibilities bet- get things done the way he wanted.
north of Paris. Imagine how ter than Lagerfeld himself, the He sits down most of the time as he
shocked she was when she first saw
imperious-looking sexagenarian critiques a prototype he himself
young women hiding their beauti-(no one really knows his exact age) designed draped not on a dress
ful bodies beneath layers of cloth-
now behind the house. Not only has form, but on a living, breathing
ing and stifling corsets during sum-
he successfully reinvented Coco’s model!
mer. classic tweed ensembles once too
often, he has come up with count- Coco, like Lagerfeld today,
“She noticed how they could less and well-received black and proved to be both resilient and driv-

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en even during her senior years. In another smart yet practical move
1939, as World War II was knock- from one of the 20th century’s most
ing on Paris’ doorstep, she decided remarkable women.
to close her couture house only to
reopen it in 1954 with a legendary
fashion show.

The event generated a great

deal of press, fueled, of course, by
the clothes and the designer herself.
(Some of the juicy tidbits below
were, for obvious reasons, no
longer part of Donnet-Couette’s
presentation.)

Coco, then already 71, report-

edly got tepid reviews from the
French press who accused her,
albeit in whispers, of “collaborat-
ing” with the enemy during the war
(she reportedly even lived in
Germany for a time with a German
military officer for a lover).

It took members of the

American press to say it as it was:
Coco’s clothes remained as wear-
able and as revolutionary as ever! It
was the year she gave women the
trimmed tweed suit now better
known as the Chanel suit and, a
year later, the 2.55 handbag. How
did she arrive at such a seemingly
clinical name?

“Well, simple. It was made in

February 1955,” said Donnet-
Couette. With the bag’s launching,
an aging yet astute Coco, who
passed away in 1971, again made
history by being the first designer
to put a shoulder strap on her bag to
free its user’s hands. As always,

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 OCO'S TIME-LOCKED PARIS
C APARTMENT provides Celia
Walden with a rare glimpse of the
treasures that tell of a life of love
and loss.
Mademoiselle Chanel is not at
home but I am sure that her ghost,
severe in a black suit with an angry
slash of red lipstick, is present amid
a haze of cigarette smoke and her
signature No5 scent.
Inspirational: Coco Chanel in 1936
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel's pri-
vate apartment, at 31 rue Cambon,
Paris, is a source of wonder that has
been preserved exactly as the
designer left it when she died in
1971. It is closed to the public but,
after months of supplication, the
fashion house granted me a rare
visit.
The building, bought by
Chanel in 1920, still houses the
ground-floor shop, the haute cou-
ture workrooms in the attic (where
100 seamstresses still work entirely
by hand), and what is now Karl
Lagerfeld's study. Among the
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labyrinth of rooms, half-way up the An anteroom, cloistered in
Art Deco stairs that run like a spine
through the 18th century building,
Chinese lacquered screens
engraved with camellias Chanel's
is the apartment, which Coco favourite flower welcomes me into
called her "nest". It was in these her baroque world. Two statues of
three small rooms that Coco trans- black slaves direct me into her sit-
formed women's wardrobes. Here, ting room, and I'm dazzled by the
she dreamed up "the new uniform gilded statues beside the marble
of modern women", as French fireplace; the extravagant Louis XV
Vogue christened it (she dispensed desk scattered with fortune tellers'
with restrictive corsets and fabrics,
cards; and the enormous chandelier
favouring more relaxed and practi- bearing her entwined initials.
cal designs), and numerous classics Beige, black and white Chanel's
that still enchant today the little preferred colours dominate the
black dresses, two-tone pumps, decor but the apartment is the
bouclé suits and quilted shoulder antithesis of her pared-down aes-
bags. thetic. Here the whimsy she sup-
pressed in the name of sophistica-
After Coco died in her sleep at tion is aired without restraint.
the age of 87, the brand - and rue
Cambon - languished until 1983, The apartment is also a ceme-
when Lagerfeld was hired by the tery of memorabilia from her many
Wertheimers (who own Chanel) to lost loves including the English
rejuvenate it. On the day of my industrialist Arthur "Boy" Capel,
visit, Lagerfeld is tearing around who lent her the money to buy Rue
Paris preparing for this week's Cambon, Igor Stravinsky and the
ready-to-wear shows. But inside second Duke of Westminster Hugh
Coco's apartment there is a mau- "Bendor" Grosvenor, the richest
soleum-like tranquillity. I am not man in Europe. "She sucked culture
surprised to hear that Lagerfeld from all the men she was with,"
often drops in to seek inspiration. says Marie-Louise de Clermont-
advertisement Tonnerre, international PR director
714
of Chanel. charity and a dusty bouquet rests by During the German occupation,
the sitting room fireplace, echoing Coco closed the salon and spent
On a coffee table in the sitting a small painting on the wall oppo- most of her time at the Ritz, con-
room are silver cigarette boxes site. "Salvador Dali knew about her ducting an affair with a Nazi offi-
bearing the duke's crest, and he obsession with wheat, so he gave cer. At the end of the war she was
adorned the lampposts in her a simple blade, painted on can- arrested for collaboration - though
Westminster with Chanel's initials. vas," says de Clermont-Tonnerre. not charged - and spent the follow-
But she still refused to marry him. "When we had the apartment val- ing years in exile in Switzerland. In
"There have been several ued, it was by far the most valuable 1954, she returned and her apart-
Duchesses of Westminster," she thing." ment became the epicentre of
would say, "there is only one Parisian society. "The place was
Chanel." Chanel never cared much about filled with artists, actresses and
the value of an object, only the socialites," says de Clermont-
Behind the coffee table is the pleasure she derived from it. "She Tonnerre. "Cocteau, Dali, Romy
caramel quilted suede couch she bought a set of 18th-century Schneider, Jeanne Moreau, the
offered to guests she liked; others Chinese screens, ripped them apart Rothschilds and Madame
sat in an upright chair. The illegiti-and stuck them on the walls like a Pompidou would come here often."
mate daughter of a travelling sales- vulgar piece of wallpaper," says
man and a shop girl, Chanel and her Genty. In the dining room, two Her parties were legendary,
two sisters were raised as orphans ornate allegories support squares of says de Clermont-Tonnerre. ''As
when their father abandoned them marble that were ripped off a larger she got older and more lonely, she
following their mother's death. It table bought at auction. In the mid- didn't want people to go home. One
was through her clothes and sur- dle of the gold-painted room, sur- New Year's Eve she insisted on
roundings that Coco reinvented rounded by 19th-century Spanish escorting her guests down those
herself. "She used to pretend that a mirrors, is a simple peasant's wood- stairs, stopping on each step to tell
bust in the dining room was a rela- en dining table. a different anecdote. It took over an
tive in fact, she picked it up in an hour to reach the bottom."
antique shop," says Marika Genty, There is no bed in the flat
director of the Chanel archive. because Chanel kept a room over The writer Claude Delay was
the road, at the Ritz. "She would one of Coco's closest friends during
Back in time: Coco Chanel’s arrive here every morning at 11," the last decade of her life. "One
suite is preserved just as she left it says de Clermont-Tonnerre. "The Sunday, he picked her up, took her
in 1971. On table tops, carved into hotel porter would call and say, to the Bois de Boulogne in her
chair legs, in wood and marble, are 'Mademoiselle is arriving!', just as black Cadillac, and escorted her
Chanel's two favourite motifs: lions we do for Karl today. Only for back. She died that afternoon. She
and wheat. "She was a Leo and a Coco, a young lady was employed always hated Sundays, because for
great believer in astrology," says de to spray No5 all around the stair- her it was just a day when nobody
Clermont-Tonnerre, "so there are case in preparation for her arrival." worked."
lions everywhere. There are even It was the scent that made Coco her
five of them curled around her fortune; from its launch in 1921 it
tombstone in Lausanne." has been the world's best-selling
perfume.
Wheat is a symbol of life and

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 70S
A ROUND YEARS AFTER IT
FIRST APPEARED, the Chanel
Sycomore fragrance is back on the
shelves of high-end cosmetic
stores.

Chanel Sycomore was first

mixed by Ernest Beaux for Coco
Chanel in the 1930s and was origi-
nally described as a 'woody' scent
with 'balsamic notes'. it's now been
re-created by perfumer Jacques
Polge as part of Chanel's rare per-
fume collection, adding a hint of
sandalwood, cypress, juniper and
pink pepper.

If those descriptions mean

absolutely nothing to you, it might
be worth nipping to your local store
for a blast. A 50ml bottle will cost
£140.

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 BACK-OF-THE-ENVELOPE CAL- tively, of the fashion-industry zation. Do some eighth-grade alge-
A CULATION of how much the investment firm Financo, and
luxury company everyone would Mitch Hara, a managing director in
bra to apply Hermès’ margin (30
percent) to Chanel’s revenue, and
love to buy may actually be worth. Peter J. Solomon Co.’s mergers- voilà!
and-acquisitions group to help us
Jimmy Choo, Peter Som, and come up with a guesstimate. Estimated value of Chanel's fashion
Valentino did it in private equity business: $5.6 billion to $7.7 billion
deals last year. Prada and Salvatore Step No. 1 -Handbags, Heels, and
Ferragamo have been hoping to do the Little Black Dress Step No. 2 - No. 5 and Beyond
it in initial public offerings this
year. The new trend in high-end Fashion finance gurus believe Things aren’t as straightforward
fashion? Selling not just clothes, Chanel’s annual revenue runs with the other half of Chanel’s busi-
handbags, and shoes, but the com- between $2.3 billion and $3 billion. ness perfume and cosmetics
pany itself. Yet the one that moguls But because Chanel’s financials are because there is no one ideal com-
would love to get their hands on private, the best clues to its overall pany to compare it with. Our
Chanel shows no sign of being for value must be gleaned from com- investment-banking sources sug-
sale. parable public companies. Most gest that the best way to appraise
experts say the best one to look at Chanel’s beauty business is to take
Brothers Alain and Gérard is Hermèsanother revered an average of the figures from some
Wertheimer of Paris tightly control European brand and a family-con- top competitors: Clarins, Estée
the legendary fashion house, which trolled player that’s not fond of Lauder, and L’Oréal. Apply their
boasts 151 boutiques and offers licensing out its name. (Chanel has average cash flow margin 16 per-
everything from the iconic No. 5 only one licensing deal.) Since cent to the other 50 percent of
fragrance to contemporary versions Hermès isn’t active in the cosmet- Chanel’s revenue, and the resulting
of founder Coco Chanel’s pioneer- ics business, it’s useful only in range is $180 million to $240 mil-
ing little black dress. A Chanel valuing Chanel’s fashion side, lion. Because, unlike our amalgam
blouse can cost about $3,000, but which is believed to account for of cosmetics companies, Chanel is
the company’s value is far less about 50 percent of the company’s a luxury-goods business, our
clear. We asked a handful of invest- revenue (or between $1.1 billion sources suggest multiplying that
ment bankers including Gilbert and $1.5 billion). Hermès is worth range by 17, Hermès’ multiple.
Harrison and Robin Andrea Harris, 17 times its earnings before inter-
founder and vice president, respec- est, taxes, depreciation, and amorti- Estimated added value: $3.1 billion

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to $4.1 billion the forces battering its luxury com-
petitors? If you think Chanel is no
Step No. 3 - The Crystal Ball different from the others, its value
is probably around $10 billion. If
Simple addition of the figures you think it’s uniquely positioned,
calculated in the two preceding the number is closer to $15 billion.
steps suggests that Chanel may be
worth between $8.7 billion and Estimated value of Chanel: $10.3
$11.8 billion (average of $10.3 bil- billion to $14.8 billion
lion). But those calculations were
performed using values from
today’s strained marketplace.

From last year’s peak, the aver-

age luxury-goods stock is off 40
percent. Because Chanel is, well,
Chanel, some in the industry
believe that its value may hold up
better. “Take one C, interlock it
with another C, and what you have
is priceless,” says Marshal Cohen,
chief analyst at NPD Group, a mar-
ket research company.

That may be hyperbole, but

Chanel is arguably the single most
valuable fashion brand.
Anticipating a future in which the
economy is stronger and more cus-
tomers can afford a thousand-dollar
belt, Chanel may be worth signifi-
cantly more. So some analysts
argue that it’s appropriate to boost
our results by about 25 percent.

Estimated added value: $2.2

billion to $3 billion

The Bottom Line

How hard will Chanel be hit by

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 HERMIONE GRANGER IN THE Chanel is creating a new role for to the deal.
A S
HARRY POTTER FILMS, she is
used to dealing with all sorts of
Miss Knightley who, in her latest
advert, poses provocatively with As the face of Coco
revolting potions. just a bowler hat covering her mod- Mademoiselle, Miss Watson, who
esty. earns £2million a movie, follows in
But now Emma Watson is to be the footsteps of Kate Moss, who
associated with a far more enchant- A source said Miss Watson's was signed up in 2003 but dropped
ing concoction as the new face of appointment will be announced the following year in favour of
the Chanel fragrance Coco next month. 'Emma has been excit- Miss Knightley.
Mademoiselle. edly telling friends that she is going
to be taking over from Keira. A spokesman for Miss Watson
The 18-year-old actress has last night declined to comment.
signed a two-year contract worth Emma has been slowly inte-
£3million with the French fashion grated into the Chanel brand.
house to promote the brand.
They have been dressing her
Harry Potter star Emma for film premieres and parties over
Watson is the new face of the recent months to see if she is the
Chanel fragrance Coco right fit. Watson is to replace Keira
Mademoiselle Knightley, pictured in a Chanel ad

Miss Watson, who became a 'Once it became clear she is

household name in the films based
on JK Rowling's books, has signed
up with leading model agency
Storm, which is thought to have
secured her first major campaign.
growing into a beautiful young
woman and wears the Chanel brand
so elegantly, they had to sign her
up. Chanel realises it is important
to target a young audience.'

It is understood that she will It is understood that Miss

replace Keira Knightley, 23, whose Watson's bosses at Warner Bros,
contract with Coco Mademoiselle which makes the Harry Potter
ends this summer. Sources said films, have given their full backing

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 1921, FASHION MAVEN COCO fume-making business. In fact, He has distilled essential oils for
I N
CHANEL created the world's top-
selling perfume saying, "I want to
most scents are chemical com-
pounds reproduced to mimic natu-
more than decade, starting his trade
in flora-rich Costa Rica. His wife,
give the world something artificial ral scents, using instruments that Marisa Goodwin, 30, is a herbalist.
like a dress. Something that has can determine the chemical make-
been made I want a perfume that is up of a plant's vapours. They run Organic Fair farm in
a composition." Cobble Hill, where they've cultivat-
But as the $2.9-billion high- ed a burgeoning vegetable garden,
At the time, jasmine was the end perfume industry experiences a an exotic laying-chicken coop and a
desired scent - distilled from the glut of scents endorsed by every garden of aromatic plants, from
night-picked flowers in the moun- celebrity from list A to B - its sales which they make essential oils,
tains of France. Rare and exotic are in decline. chocolate and other products. They
ingredients have always made for also live at the farm with their six-
the most coveted perfumes, from Fewer women wear traditional month-old daughter, Nigella.
the scent in the sacs of the Asian perfumes or scents at all. They cite
musk deer to amber, fossilized tree allergies and environmental con- Lemon balm, lavender, fennel,
sap. cerns over how perfume is pro- thyme and clary sage sprawl across
duced as reason to hark back to its the garden. The couple seeks out
The recipe for Chanel No. 5 natural origins. Meanwhile, the more exotic scents in the woods in
called for neroli, jasmine, ylang- aromatherapy industry booms with the area. "We were able to make a
ylang and, for the first time in his- natural essential oils as key ingre- Douglas fir essential oil by distill-
tory, a synthetic molecule called dients. ing the needles of fallen trees.
aldehyde. Imagine the possibilities of using
In the rural woods of the the needles as a byproduct of log-
It gained cult status when Cowichan Valley a young family ging," Kent said.
Marilyn Monroe famously said: finds their living and passion
"What do I wear in bed? Why, experimenting with the aromatic Marisa wanted to try grand fir and
Chanel No. 5, of course." essences of plants they grow and Sitkas. "Most of the Douglas fir
harvest. essential oil comes from Eastern
While aldehyde was a rare Europe. Why not here where it's
ingredient 87 years ago, synthetic "Anything that has a scent, I'll local and the needles can be re-
molecules now dominate the per- distill it," Kent Goodwin, 37, said. used," she said. Their used needles

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make a walking path on the farm. ing the benefits of pure essential
oils, and looking for them in the
The couple's farm is the home products they buy."
base for a new collective of aroma
enthusiasts and lots of experimen- If that is indeed the growing
tation. The Aromatic Farm Co-op trend, Vancouver Island's "green"
joins perfumers, aromatherapists essential oils are sure to be gold.
and farmers, with Goodwin steam-
distilling on site.

"Our commitment is to sustain-

able, local, organic, ethically pro-
duced essential oils," Kent said.
"And we use the best ingredients
and methods. You can't get more
exclusive than that."

Ellen Coburn is a member of

the co-operative. While she is
studying to be a horticulturist, she
has spent more than 20 years in the
scent-blending business at several
of the Island's top resort spas.

"Originally all scents used were

natural. Traditionally, though, there
were high costs associated with the
laborious processes of extraction,"
Coburn said.

For example, 250 kilograms of

rose petals might make only one
kilogram of essential oil, which
would sell for more than $21,000.
Also, most oils are distilled at the
point of origin to avoid decomposi-
tion. Synthetic fragrance oils are
easier, cheaper and most used.

But trends might swing the

other way, said Coburn, "with a
more educated consumer particu-
larly on the West Coast understand-

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 BRITISH Even now, Chanel will NOT the report is false, no statement.
W HEN A
REPORTED
NEWSPAPER
LAST WEEK THAT issue a written denial. "We are only Got that?
"Harry Potter's" Hermoine, actress allowed to speak to reporters about
Emma Watson, had just landed a this. We cannot widely release a Go figure.
multimillion-dollar fragrance deal statement that the report isn't true."
with Chanel, the corporate offices And Keira Knightley gets to
refused to let their PR reps issue a Even the Chanel spokesman's keep her Chanel fragrance contract,
statement that the report was false. name may not be used due to yet which she signed last fall. For the
another strange set of corporate time being...
As a result, the false report rules. "I cannot be quoted. Just say
spread like wildfire across the company spokesman," she
Internet. Just Google "Emma explained.
Watson" and "Chanel" and see the
results. So why didn't Chanel cor- Oh-Kay.
rect the original erroneous report
and stop the madness? The Chanel rep admitted that
the strange technique of non-
"We're not allowed to make addressal of incorrect items may
statements when the reports are not not be in hindsight the wisest
true," a New York-based Chanel move.
spokesman explained this morning.
"The story did take on a life of
Huh? its own," the rep admitted. "It was
everywhere. And I can understand
"It's the company's policy not why everyone thought it was true
to make a statement if the report is because we do often work with
not true," she continued. "For Emma Watson, dressing her for
instance, when Audrey Tautou's events. And she's adorable."
contract was leaked to the press, we
issued a statement because it was So, unless a report on a Chanel
true, she was being put under con- fragrance deal is true, there will be
tract." no double-C-stamped statement. If

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 T'S SUCH A BIG STORY FOR SUCH A Another frock film about
I SMALL SCREEN. Oscar-winner
Shirley MacLaine will play fashion
Chanel is in the works in France
starring Audrey Tautou (The Da
legend Chanel in a made-for-cable Vinci Code) and Alessandro Nivola
movie titled Coco Chanel, set to air (Junebug, Jurassic Park III). Titled
8 p.m. Saturday on Lifetime. Coco Avant Chanel or Coco Before
Chanel the movie will focus on her
The three-hour biopic opens in younger days and rise to global
1954 as the famed couturier is fame.
attempting a comeback. In reflec-
tion, she recounts her humble Here are some of Chanel's most
beginnings, orphaned childhood, famous bon mots:
doomed love affairs and entrepre-
neurial spirit at the dawning of the "A girl should be two things: classy
20th century. As World War II and fabulous."
approaches, Chanel introduces her
iconic ideas for women's fashion: "A woman who doesn't wear per-
easy-care jersey dresses; fume has no future."
menswear-inspired suits; costume
jewelry; adding a logo to clothing "Fashion fades, only style remains
and developing a signature per- the same."
fume ... Chanel No. 5.
"Nature gives you the face you
Chanel died in her Ritz Hotel have at 20; it is up to you to merit
apartment in 1971 at the age of 87 the face you have at 50."
while working on yet another col-
lection. A Broadway musical
called Coco, starring Katherine
Hepburn, ran for 329 sold-out per-
formances even though critics (and
Coco herself) were underwhelmed.

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 JACQUES POLGE
C HANEL NOSE
created the beauty brand’s lat-
est fragrance, Beige. The latest
addition to Chanel’s fragrance col-
lection Les Exclusifs de Chanel is a
perfume called Beige. On the eve
of its launch, Vanity Fair beauty
director SunHee Grinnell spoke to
Jacques Polge, the revered Chanel
nose who created the scent.
SunHee Grinnell: I believe that it
takes a very sensitive, particular
person to create such exquisite fra-
grances. So, who is Jacques Polge?
Jacques Polge: I am a lover of poet-
ry. What would reality be without
its poetic dimension? Even if you
do not read poetry, it plays an
important role in everyday life. I
am a lover of fragrance, and fra-
grance is a form of poetry. It does-
n’t speak, but it gives so much.
Where did you grow up? Did your
early-childhood surroundings con-
tribute in any way to your becom-
ing one of the great noses of our
century?
I grew up in the South of
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France, near Avignon. I would go
to Grasse for the summer with my
family, and go to Cannes to swim
in the ocean. From Nice to Cannes,
to Grasse was a garden when I was
a child. There were fields of rose,
jasmine, violets, and orange blos-
som. It was the birthplace of per-
fumery. When you approached
Grasse, you would smell the jas-
mine. Now you don’t, because
there is much less production here,
but then, flowers were everywhere.
Of course my surroundings as a
child lead me to perfumery. We are
all influenced by our childhood. It
is unconscious and instinctive.
What are Beige’s notes? Was it cre-
ated in the usual way, from top to
bottom?
The notes of Beige consist of a
bouquet of hawthorn, freesia, and
frangipani, with shimmering hints
of honey. It’s a stunning blend of
white petals and yellow gold. It’s a
sumptuous white floral. At Chanel,
we never create fragrances from
top to bottom in the traditional way.
Hawthorn is typically an endnote,
but in Beige, it is the keynote,
724
which ends in a powdery softness.
Hawthorn grows in many
places. It is often used for hedges in
the countryside, as it is a beautiful
blooming thorny bush. It is also
known as May blossom. The sta-
men inside the flower is yellow and
smells honey-like.
What emotions do you hope this
scent will trigger?
For the Les Exclusifs collec-
tion, I wanted to offer a choice of
fragrances for everyone. Beige
offers a new choice. The emotion is
that the past is alive again. It’s
renewing a fragrance of the past.
Mademoiselle [Coco Chanel] had a
fragrance called Beige de Chanel,
which launched in 1940. It’s been a
long time since the hawthorn note
has been used in a fragrance. It’s
something from the past which now
comes to life in a modern way.
Proust wrote about hawthorn. He
spoke of the melancholy that mem-
ories of the past can bring. So, for
me, Beige is a modern fragrance
with a link to the past.
 This fragrance is perhaps the
best embodiment of the couture
house’s foundation. Did
Mademoiselle Chanel have inspira-
tional words that you drew from
when creating a scent for this
extremely versatile color?

Mademoiselle Chanel spoke of

beige as a comfortable color, a
color of eternal elegance, not à la
mode but something that never
goes out of style. My inspiration
was to translate the idea of this
color into a fragrance that was fresh
and floral. My vision of the beige
color came alive with the hawthorn
note in accord with honey.

What are the characteristics of

women who would wear Beige?

I see many types of women

wearing this fragrance. Beige is an
important color for Chanel. A
Chanel woman follows fashion but
is looking for that which never goes
out of style.

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 HIS WEEK, AS THE EDITORS, No 5, the single most successful family, who have been in the busi-
T RETAILERS AND PRIVATE CUS-
TOMERS gathered in Paris for the
perfume in history, created in 1921
by Ernest Beaux and still among
ness of flower production for six
generations. Chanel has had an
Chanel spring/summer 2009 show the top five best-selling fragrances exclusive arrangement with them
many in the brand’s trademark in the world. What has it got that since 1987, and now the Muls pro-
bouclé jackets or camellia- everyone else hasn’t? duce both rose and jasmine solely
bedecked sunglasses or beige-and- for the brand. Each year 50 (largely
black spectator shoes they were, as It’s the flowers, stupid. female) workers are employed for
always, handed miniature white approximately four weeks, from
shopping bags containing a special Actually, to be specific, it’s the 7am to 6.30 pm daily, to pick the
little something. rose de Mai (May rose), a centifo- roses grown on the Mul’s five
lia variety grown in the fields of hectares. The roses must be picked
And though such gifts are com- Grasse, south-eastern France, and “when they are open”, says Fabrice
mon enough often when the collec- generally considered to be the Mul, the son-in-law of the current
tion is over and the venue has emp- benchmark (alongside Grasse jas- owner. “They open overnight and
tied, the runway will be littered mine) for floral excellence. we gather them during the day.
with unwanted straightening irons When we pick an open one, that
and scented candles this time there “Each year, for No 5, we use will cause another to open the next
was hardly a scrap left on a seat. more than 60 tonnes of rose de day, which is why we have so many
When it comes to Chanel and per- Mai,” says Jacques Polge, the cele- people to make sure they gather all
fume, apparently, even the most brated “nose” of the house, and the of the roses.”
jaded fashionista feels a niggling man responsible for such Chanel
desire. scents as Allure and Coco Pickers wear scarves and straw
Mademoiselle. Polge goes to hats to protect themselves from the
The question is: why? After all, Grasse, where the roses are grown, sun, as well as gloves, “not because
from January to September this “more or less every year” for the of thorns but because of the bees in
year in the UK, 233 new perfumes harvest, though it isn’t strictly nec- the flowers. The gloves are quite
have been launched and a further essary. “Everything’s done here fine so that they can still feel the
1,718 launched internationally. with people that know what they rose, but the bee stings won’t pene-
And there are enough scents at a have to do,” he says. trate,” says Mul. The pick itself is a
scent counter to make any sensibil- specific motion kind of twist and
ity reel. Yet atop it all sits Chanel Those “people” are the Mul snap, with fingers placed just below

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the head of the flower and roses are in this form until it is needed to
dropped into the large fabric aprons make the actual fragrance, when all
each picker wears, which are in the slabs are mixed together to
turn emptied into large, brown hes- ensure consistency and then sepa-
sian sacks. On average, a day’s rated, with every kg of concrete
work yields three to four tonnes of yielding about 600g of absolute
roses, which are then driven a few (pure extracted rose) and 400g of
minutes up the lane to be wax. The absolute then goes
processed. Chanel built its own fac- straight into the fragrances.
tory in 1987 near the fields in
Grasse, to optimise the freshness of And for those few who aren’t
the blooms. swayed by the numbers, processes
and history of the scent well, Polge
At the factory the roses are understands. Sort of. Sometimes
poured, sack by sack, into one of flower power needs a tweak. So,
four giant vats (each holds 250 later this month Eau Premiere, a
kilos), where they are separated new take on the house’s classic,
into six layers, each divided by a makes its debut a fragrance intend-
large sieve-like disc. Once full, the ed for those who “up to now, for
vats are sealed and, over the course one reason or another, have not
of six hours, pumped full of about used No 5 but would like to”, says
6,000 litres of hexane, a solvent Polge.
that extracts all the molecules and
wax from the blooms, which are “Maybe they found it a bit
then emptied for compost. This heavy or rich; this is fresher, more
process goes on 24 hours a day dur- transparent,” he continues which is
ing the harvest. not to say it is rose-free. “Very few
people realise that when you offer
The wax and oils that result someone perfume it is as if you are
from this solvent extraction then go giving them a big bunch of flow-
through another process in which ers,” says Polge.
they are placed in ethyl alcohol and
gently heated, causing the oil to
dissolve and rise to the top; the heat
then slowly evaporates the alcohol.
By the end, what is left is the fra-
grance concrete: large slabs of a
waxy-looking, dull-copper-
coloured substance. Approximately
2,500kg of flowers produce 6kg of
concrete (which sells for approxi-
mately €3,500 per kg on the open
market). The concrete is preserved

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 OR NEARLY A CENTURY, it's been
F the scent of choice for the
world's most fashionable women.
So why is Chanel trying to improve
on perfection? Susannah Frankel
follows her nose to Paris
Neuilly, in the western outskirts
of Paris, just at the point where
Haussmann's Grands Boulevards
give way to the glittering skyscrap-
ers of La Defénse, may be smart,
but it's not the most obvious home
for a brand with the stature of
Chanel. It is here, though, that the
fragrance and beauty arm of that
label resides, in a surprisingly
unassuming bronze and glass struc-
ture boasting neither signage nor
logo.
Inside, it is a rather different
story. Entirely clad in black and
beige, famously Mlle Chanel's cho-
sen colours, from the cool marble
floors and imposing pilasters to the
simple but reassuringly expensive
leather furniture, and even the two-
tone uniform twin-sets of staff seat-
ed in reception, it is all quintessen-
tially Chanel.
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Take a lift to the penthouse, and
it's all change once again, this time
to a bright, predominantly white
interior dominated by walls of win-
dow on all four sides, overlooking
the rooftops of Paris, and flooded
with diffuse, early autumn light. It
is here that Chanel's master per-
fumer for 30 years, Jacques Polge,
presides over his olfactory empire,
which remains the most successful
of its kind in the world.
Polge, only the third generation
of in-house perfumers at Chanel, is
not only guardian and curator of
bestselling fragrances including
Cristalle, No 19 and, most famous
of all, No 5, he is also the creator of
Coco, Coco Mademoiselle,
Antaeus, Chance, Allure and, most
recently, Les Exclusifs, a line avail-
able only in Chanel boutiques and
featuring reissued scents first intro-
duced by the grande dame herself,
and all-new ones each inspired by
and named after the minutiae of her
well-documented life: 31 rue
Cambon, for example, a mod-
ernised chypre, was the address of
Chanel's first Paris home and bou-
tique; 28 La Pausa is inspired by
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the house she had built on the Côte
d'Azur, and its iris-filled garden.
"Would you like to see the lab?"
wonders Polge, an elegant and
sprightly man in his early sixties,
known by his entourage simply as
"le nez". Well, who wouldn't? This,
after all, is where the alchemy that
is the perfumer's art is performed,
and where the impossibly luxurious
components that go into the cre-
ation of some of the world's most
extraordinary fragrances are
housed in cabinets lining the walls
and in a central rotating glass cylin-
der. There are hundreds of tiny,
vivid-blue bottles – "Because blue
is a beautiful colour, but also
because it protects against the sun's
rays," says Polge.
In this one, relatively small
room, then, Chanel's most precious
essences are preserved, and new
formulas developed. Polge is not
unreasonably proud of the place
(which is perhaps best described
whisper it as reminiscent of Doctor
Who's Tardis, albeit an unusually
big-budget version).
 Today, the positively uplifting
scent of orange zest fills the air.
"Quite possibly," Polge says, some-
what conspiratorially. We are here
today to talk about Eau Première,
the first new concentration of
Chanel No 5 to be released on to
the market for over 20 years. Given
that around 600 new fragrances are
introduced annually, that makes it
quite an event in itself. Like its
magnificent antecedent and Chanel
No 5, first given to the world in
1921, is still among the most com-
plex and, indeed, modern fra-
grances ever created it comes in a
rectangular bottle stamped with
simple black lettering, though it is
longer and leaner, and the perfume
is almost clear rather than the orig-
inal's amber.
Unlike many other great scents,
the original Chanel No 5 has never
been reinterpreted for a supposedly
more contemporary audience. For
all those who love it it is estimated
that a bottle is sold every 55 sec-
onds somewhere in the world great
pains are taken to ensure that it
smells just as it did when launched,
which is no mean feat. However,
new interpretations of the scent are
introduced the last of these, also
courtesy of Polge, was Eau de
Parfum back in the 1980s.
"For us, you know, Chanel No 5
never needed to be revamped,"
Polge explains, refusing, with some
diplomacy, to be drawn on the 2003
reworking of Yves Saint Laurent
Rive Gauche, to name just one,
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which left its core audience bewil-
dered, even bereft. (Paco Rabanne's
Eau de Calandre, still available, is
now considered to be a closer
approximation of the original Rive
Gauche.) Before Polge arrived at
Chanel, he was, coincidentally, co-
creator of Rive Gauche. This, of
course, was the most emblematic
scent of the 1970s, in much the
same way as the rather less suc-
cessful Obsession by Calvin Klein
dominated the Eighties.
Chanel No 5, though, has stood
the test of time far better than either
of these. "No 5 has always been a
very alive perfume in the compa-
ny," Polge continues. "It is our job
to protect the creation, and we
make all types of effort in order that
it remains the same. Every time
there is a change in fashion or in
women's habits of using perfume,
instead of altering what already
exists, we launch a new product.
First came Eau de Toilette, then
there was Eau de Parfum, and very
soon there will be Eau Première."
The latest addition to the
Chanel No 5 family of fragrances is
fresher and perhaps more gentle
than its majestic forebear, making it
more in line with current, lighter
trends in perfumery. "The history is
very simple," says Polge. "Eau
Première is for all those women
who came to me and said, 'No 5 is
fantastic but it's not for me'. Eau
Premiere is lighter, more transpar-
ent, but, in essence, it is still No 5.
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"Before the last war," he con-
tinues, "we knew, perhaps, of only
six constituents of jasmine [among
No 5's principle ingredients], but
now we know more than 200. In
Eau Première, I used many ingredi-
ents that did not exist when the
original was created. I think,
though maybe I'm wrong, that if
Monsieur Beaux created No 5 now,
he would have used them, too.
As perhaps befits the world's
most legendary fragrance, the truth
and mythology surrounding the
creation of Chanel No 5 are entan-
gled. It is believed that Gabrielle
("Coco") Chanel was introduced to
Ernest Beaux, perfumer to the
Russian court, by her lover, the
Grand Duke Dmitri Romanov, who
escaped revolutionary Russia with
the chemist to settle in Biarritz in
1920. Until that point, the milliner-
turned-couturier had demonstrated
no interest in perfume whatsoever –
she viewed is as superficial if not
distasteful, aimed primarily at the
none-too-romantic pursuit of mask-
ing the odour of unwashed bodies.
Just as Mlle Chanel's desire was
to give women a stylish and con-
temporary uncluttered wardrobe
that was a million miles away from
the furbelows and frills of the belle
époque, so she aimed to revolu-
tionise perfume. The scents that
came before Chanel No 5 were
heavy single-note florals, packaged
in, to her pioneering mind, overdec-
orated bottles that did little, if any-
thing, to advertise the importance
of the juice within.
"The perfumes that were
around before No 5 related precise-
ly to specific flowers," Polge
explains. "There was jasmine, rose,
gardenia, lily of the valley. For me,
No 5 was the first perfume that
used flowers lots of flowers but that
didn't immediately relate to one in
particular."
In other words, Chanel No 5
was the world's first abstract fra-
grance, as signposted by its very
name, a number Chanel's lucky
number according to folklore rather
than anything more obviously fem-
inine or even just evocative. Chanel
herself, ever the adept marketer, put
it neatly. She wanted, she told
Beaux when she first commis-
sioned him, "un parfum de femme,
à odeur de femme".
"Chanel never answered a
question directly," says Polge.
"And that is not only very clever
but also appropriate to perfume,
which is a poetic way of saying
something using neither images nor
words. What I think she meant by
that was the idea that the perfume
smells different on different
women, that a woman's natural per-
fume informs the fragrance she
wears. Although people may
believe otherwise, there are actual-
ly very few fragrances that do that." case.
The secret to No 5's intentional-
ly elusive nature, and to the fact "People don't understand the word of aldehydes in question that is the
that, almost 90 years after its incep- 'synthetic'. Usually, any so-called secret of Chanel No 5.
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tion, it remains almost impossible
to pin down is, in fact, scientific
more than poetic. This was the first
fragrance to make use of syntheti-
cally replicated molecules taken
from products of natural origin
called aldehydes. To explain the
nature of aldehydes is a complex
business, and one perhaps best left
to chemists. Put briefly, though,
they run the gamut from repellent
formaldehyde, for example, which
smells aggressively cloying and is
used to preserve cadavers to infi-
nitely desirable powdery, efferves-
cent and pure.
The first aldehydes were syn-
thesised in a laboratory in France in
the late 19th century, but it wasn't
until Beaux started working with
them that they were stabilised for
use in perfume. And the fruits of
his endeavour are still contained
within Chanel No 5.
While Mlle Chanel had no
problem with the use of synthetics
she famously, for example, mixed
costume jewellery with the real
thing, considering that to be a signi-
fier of modernity today we react
badly to the introduction of chemi-
cals to any product, from fragrance
to food, erroneously believing that
they are a cheap and allergenic sub-
stitute for the real thing. Often,
however, just the opposite is the that aldehydes share and in this C10
is the exception that proves the rule
is that they smell extremely unfa-
As Polge himself puts it: miliar. And it is just the "clean" mix
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synthetic product has its roots in a
natural product. Taking an ingredi-
ent that is a very tiny part of the
natural product and synthesising it
allows us to give nuances that we
couldn't before. More importantly,
there are natural products that don't
smell good and are cheap, like cit-
ronella [used to repel insects and
bring dogs into line] and lemon
grass [the staple ingredient of often
foul-smelling detergents]. Then
there are synthetic products that
smell very good and are extremely
expensive."
One such product is the alde-
hyde C10. Polge offers a drop of it
to me on a paper stick, and the
aforementioned aroma of oranges
that smell better than even nature
intended is immediately apparent.
A second stick is more peculiar and
difficult to identify, though still
bizarrely appealing. "It smells
clean," I say. "Clean is an important
word," replies Polge charitably,
before adding: "It smells like the
steam rising from a cotton shirt that
is being ironed." And that, of
course, is precisely what it smells
like, and demonstrates, perhaps,
why a nose is a nose in the first
place, and the rest of us are mere
amateurs by comparison.
Whatever, the single quality
 "Beaux used the best materials
he had at his disposal at the time,"
says Polge, "but he said that the
impression was that there was too
much at the bottom of the bottle
and that it lacked lift." The effect of
aldehydes, Polge's eminent prede-
cessor went on to claim, was like
that of "lemon juice on strawber-
ries" they add sparkle to the main
ingredient, enhancing any natural
properties, and bringing them to
life. The "strawberries" in Chanel
No 5 are principally rose and jas-
mine, and in the preservation of
these, two of the most expensive
ingredients of perfumery both tra-
ditional and modern, the house of
Chanel is also unrivalled. In 1987,
true to its intention to stay true to
the character of its original scent,
Chanel signed a contract with the
Mul family in Grasse, who now
work exclusively for the company
producing the finest flowers of their
kind.
"In 1921, if you wanted rose or
jasmine, the only place you could
find it was Grasse," Polge says he
grew up in the South of France and
holidayed in Grasse, so remembers
the smell of intense flower produc-
tion well. "For many reasons,
though, and principally as a result
of the pursuit of cheap labour, that
is no longer the case. First, produc-
tion went to Calabria in southern
Italy, then to Egypt, to North
Africa, and finally to India. It's not
necessarily worse jasmine, but it is
different. In order to keep the per-
fume as it should be, we signed a
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contract with the biggest producer way back when, but also later creat-
in Grasse. Later, we did the same ed its own ad campaign inspired by
for rose." Warhol's original.
This shrewd move makes
Chanel look good, for sure, not
only keeping the French tradition of
flower cultivation for fragrance
alive, but also ensuring that No 5,
and Parfum No 5, the original and
most exclusive concentration in
particular, remains exactly the
same.
"When I joined the company,"
Polge says, "the production of both
rose and jasmine was decreasing,
year by year, to the point that we
were worried that soon we wouldn't
have enough. By working directly
with the producers, we couldn't turn
the clocks back to increase the pro-
duction to what it once was, but we
did stop its decline."
If this much time and effort is
involved in ensuring that Chanel
No 5 is the most enduringly suc-
cessful fragrance in history, there
is, of course, more to its spectacular
longevity than the juice itself. The
Chanel No 5 bottle, altered only
minimally since first designed by
Coco Chanel herself, is by now as
recognisable a part of contempo-
rary culture as Coca-Cola. Small
wonder, then, that back in the
1950s, Andy Warhol captured its
transparent beauty in myriad
colourways. For its part, Chanel,
never a company to miss a trick,
not only reproduced the work for a
limited-edition run of packaging
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Then, of course, there are the
many "faces" of No 5. The original
of these was Chanel herself, pho-
tographed with perhaps her great-
est, and certainly most lucrative,
creation in her Paris apartment by
Man Ray. Although Marilyn
Monroe was never actually signed
up by Chanel, she helped to estab-
lish No 5's allure, famously declar-
ing that "a few drops of No 5" was
the only thing she wore in bed.
Since that time, some of the world's
most beautiful women have repre-
sented the fragrance, including the
French actresses Catherine
Deneuve (a brave choice at the time
given that she was barely known
outside Europe, and America was,
and still is, the biggest market for
luxury fragrance), and Carole
Bouquet. More recently, Nicole
Kidman became the first
Hollywood superstar to promote
No 5 in a film and stills captured by
the Moulin Rouge! director Baz
Luhrmann. From next year, Audrey
Tautou, currently filming the lead
in Coco and Igor, documenting the
love affair between Chanel and
Stravinsky, will assume the mantle.
In the end, though, no amount
of marketing can justify the unpar-
alleled supremacy of this fragrance,
which, as Polge puts it, is ultimate-
ly attributable to the fact that "it
smells good".
 So, what exactly does Chanel In A Year Inside the Perfume think of Titian," he says. "Venice
No 5 smell like?According to Luca Industry, a study of olfactory life in was very important to Chanel."
Turin, author of The Secret of Scent France and the US, Burr states that
and, with Tania Sanchez, the Chanel's competitors are "exquis- And a film? "François
recently published Perfumes The itely conscious of the perfume Truffaut's Baisés Volés."
Guide, notable for its plain-spoken referred to by some in the industry
style and even, by beauty-industry as the monster le monstre Chanel's And a piece of music?
standards, plain rudeness, No 5 No 5. Here is a 90-year-old fra- "Mozart's Concerto for Clarinet,"
smells as follows: grance, always at the top of the Polge says, barely pausing for
international bestseller lists, an thought.
"Those who have been brought institution whose 2003 sales [were]
up on stunted, suburban fragrances an astonishing €180m." Finally, I wonder, if Chanel No
must find it hard to accept the exis- 5 were an animal, what would it be?
tence of such a regally beautiful Back in Jacques Polge's labora-
thing," he writes. "The top notes tory, a comparatively understated "That's easy. It would be a
surprise every time: a radiant cho- place given the scale of the treas- lion."
rus of ylang and rose floating like ures it holds, "le nez" appears
gold leaf on the chalk-white back- happy to indulge my curiosity. And that lion continues to roar.
ground of aldehydes. Curiously,
this most modern of perfumes "When Chanel No 5 was first
evokes an image of great antiquity, created," he says, "it was very
perhaps a Scythian jewel on a white influential and many imitations
dress. were created, but those have now
all disappeared, which means that
"The drydown fades the way No 5 seems more different than
white flowers do, slowly becoming ever. I think that today, No 5 really
soft and flesh-coloured. And to get is unique, and that is the most
an idea of No 5's quality, smell it on important thing, to create some-
a paper strip after 24 hours. Now thing that is unique.
try this with whatever else you're
wearing. See?" If there is one word I would use
to describe it, it would be 'mystery'.
And here's the similarly dis- It's a very mysterious fragrance,
cerning and brilliant New York and that is a fine quality. A fra-
Times perfume critic, Chandler grance that lacks mystery is too
Burr, on the subject. "Chanel No 5 obvious, it can never last very
hits you like a bank of white-hot long."
searchlights washing the powdered
stars at a movie premiere in Cannes If Chanel No 5 were a book, I
on a dry summer night. If you ask him, what would it be? "Les
haven't smelled it in a while, do so Liaisons dangereuses," he replies.
again. It's great to bathe in that
light." And a painting? "It makes me

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 NO. 5 ISN'T JUST A PER-
C HANEL
FUME . It's a concept; an
embodiment of the French woman.
Above all, it's an astoundingly suc-
cessful PR campaign that has
worked its magic since 1921.
Then, designer Coco Chanel
hired celebrated perfumer, Ernest
Beaux, to create the potion for her:
Never mind what it contained - it
had to be the most expensive and
coveted juice in the world.
Today, nearly 90 years down
the road, head honchos at her pri-
vately-owned Parisian fashion
house are no less practised in her
legacy.
5 Facts About Chanel No. 5
1: When Coco Chanel hired per-
fumer Ernest Beaux to create the
world's most exclusive scent, he
came up with several prototypes.
No. 5 - which coincides with
Coco's lucky number - was chosen
from the series.
2: The shape of the Chanel No. 5
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bottle cap is inspired by the octag- The scent, priced at $167 for a
onal shape of Paris' famous Place 75ml bottle and $223 for a 150ml
Vendome. one, goes on sale at Chanel coun-
ters here today.
3: Chanel's fetish flower was the
camellia, which has been erro- 'The basic ingredients are the
neously thought to be a component same but it has been tweaked to
of No. 5. The flower is scentless, a reflect a more contemporary feel,'
fact that Coco herself was pleased says Christopher Sheldrake, deputy
with since it allowed women to perfumer at the fashion house.
wear the bloom without having its
fragrance interfere with their cho- 'There is a slightly more citrusy
sen perfume. top note but it is still recognisable
as No. 5; there is no alteration of
4: Before it was commercially the basic formula.'
available in 1924, Chanel No. 5
was given away to Coco's friends The new Chanel No. 5, housed
and clients who visited her first in a taller bottle, retains the primary
boutique near the Louvre in Paris. ingredient that made the 1921 orig-
inal so distinctive: a heavy dose of
5: Coco sprayed No. 5 liberally in jasmine extract.
her favourite stairway of her apart-
ment in Rue Cambon, where she Sheldrake reveals: 'Coco didn't
would often sit - unobserved - on want to make just any perfume. She
the fifth step while watching fash- wanted to make the most special
ion shows held in her parlour perfume in the world; the most
through a panel of mirrors. expensive perfume in the world
and the most expensive essence of
They have leveraged on the that time was jasmine because it
scent's century-old tradition to was so hard to extract.'
introduce its newest incarnation:
Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere. In order to balance the heavy
733
dose of jasmine, other ingredients perfume in the world. 'Eau Premiere is still Chanel
had to be added to the mix. These No. 5 but it's also a different No. 5,'
included extract of the May rose, The new sister version is Sheldrake says.
cultivated in exclusive fields in the lighter, airier, more transparent and
South of France specially for younger, Sheldrake explains. 'As for how it is different, that
Chanel. Other components include is our secret - a secret that began
essence of the Madagascan ylang 'It retains the sensuousness in with the original No. 5, whose
ylang flower and - importantly - the the original but is clean, like fresh exact composition is still carefully
synthetically-produced component, laundry. It is produced with a guarded today.'
aldehyde. greater understanding of the eco-
logical process, reflecting changing Experience the new Chanel No.
The use of manufactured fra- cultural references and tastes of 5 Eau Premiere at a fragrance lay-
grances was revolutionary in its people who are environmentally ering session and get a free sample.
time, says Sheldrake. conscious.' Limited to the first 80 customers
per counter. Call 6735-3325 ext 111
In keeping with the tradition, Meanwhile, the fashion house for store listings.
the new Chanel No. 5 is also alde- hopes to make Eau Premiere a 21st-
hyde-based. century classic on the back of the
original formula.
There were other factors that
ensured the liquid became an Here, the aura of history has
instant hit, if only through provoca- been turned on its head. Classic
tive marketing. advertising campaigns that once
sealed No. 5's place in the history
While contemporary fragrances of fragrances have been recalled as
of the 1920s boasted fiddly, roman- part of Eau Premiere's storytelling
tic names such as Angel's Breath or process: Marilyn Monroe swore it
Mystical Shower, Coco took the was the only thing she wore to bed;
bold step of calling her fragrance Catherine Deneuve posed with the
the minimalist - almost banal - No. bottle.
5.
Then in 2004, Nicole Kidman
Her receptacle of choice was a became its ambassador, endorsing
blocky, unadorned vial, which epit- the liquid in a high-profile ad cam-
omised the modern, no-nonsense paign by film director Baz
but classy Parisian woman. Luhrmann.

With the advent of perfumery, Now, Eau Premiere is being

jasmine has become much easier to
extract and the perfume is now
more of an affordable luxury. One
bottle is reportedly sold every 30
seconds, making it the top-selling
marketed - not quite on the face of
yet another femme fatale - but par-
adoxically, on the concept of the
old Chanel No. 5.

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London, England - fume which has truly stood the test 8. Lacoste - Pink
of time, being just as popular now
as when it first went on sale almost 9. Yves Saint Lauren - Opium
HANEL NO. 5 HAS BEEN NAMED 90 years ago."
C AS THE MOST ICONIC PERFUME
of all time, according to the poll of "All the perfumes in the top 10
10. Beckham - Intimately Her

2,000 women by health and beauty have adorned dressing tables

retail chain Superdrug. across the country and will remain
staple scents for years to come."
Fashion house's signature scent
is said to have acquired its name Couple David and Victoria
after Coco Chanel commissioned Beckham's Intimately Her also
the renowned perfumer Ernest made the list, the only celebrity
Beaux to make six perfumes for her scent featured.
to choose. The bottles were labeled
No. 1 to 6, and Chanel chose the The top ten most iconic perfumes of
fifth bottle. She then declared that all time:
the jasmine scent would simply be
called No. 5. 1. Chanel No. 5

Calvin Klein's unisex pefume, 2. Calvin Klein - One

One, followed at second place,
while its Eternity scent is at third. 3. Calvin Klein - Eternity

Superdrug's Matt Twigg tells 4. Chanel - Coco

telegraph.co.uk, "Perfume is such
an essential part of getting ready 5. Dior - Poison
for a woman and the fragrance they
choose can really reflect their 6. Ghost
mood at that moment."
7. Cacharel - Anais Anais
"Chanel No.5 is an iconic per-

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Paris, France -
CHANEL,
C OCO
LITTLE BLACK
CREATOR OF THE
DRESS and
byword for Parisian chic, joins a
growing roster of French cultural
figures to be celebrated on screen
with two films of her life due out
next year.
Audrey Tautou, star of
"Amelie" and Anna Mouglalis,
who played France's ultimate intel-
lectual heroine Simone de
Beauvoir in a separate biopic, will
embody the elegant Chanel, whose
fortune began in 1912 with a sim-
ple Paris shop.
"Coco Chanel had to fight to
succeed," Mouglalis told reporters
this week. "She was capable of
extreme meanness and great gen-
erosity, of being extremely hard
and very sweet, she was black and
white."
The producers are hoping to
repeat the success of "La Vie en
Rose," the 2007 film that gave
Marion Cotillard her Oscar-win-
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ning role as the legendary "A woman without a perfume is
chanteuse Edith Piaf. a woman without a future,"
remarked the woman whose Chanel
Cinema and television portray- Number 5 became the world's top
als of famous French people have selling scent.
mushroomed since, mirroring the
recent Hollywood trend that has Both "Coco avant Chanel"
produced film lives ranging from (Coco before Chanel), starring
singing legend Johnny Cash to Tautou and "Coco et Stravinsky,"
President George W. Bush. starring Mouglalis, will focus on
the designer's early career before
Francoise Sagan, author of the she became a living symbol of the
1954 best-seller "Bonjour fashion industry.
Tristesse," philosopher-lovers
Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre or The two films are currently in
Albert Spaggiari, an impish bank production and are expected to
robber who pulled off one of reach the screen next year.
France's most spectacular heists
have all had the treatment. Karl Lagerfeld, the exuberant
German who became chief design-
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, er of the firm in 1983 kicked off the
whose legacy includes the simple procession with a short film he
black dresses that have graced a directed himself and presented this
million cocktail parties since she week to a select audience in a small
unveiled the original in 1926, Paris theater this week.
seems a natural addition.
In "Coco Chanel 1913-1923," a
Raised an orphan, she allied an silent film shot in black and white,
iron will, a tart tongue and a flair he shows her at the beginning of
for design to the modernist spirit of her long career with the two men
the 1920s and built one of the who shared her life at the time,
world's biggest fashion houses. "Boy" Capel and the Russian Grand
736
Duke Dmitry.

Lagerfeld, who earlier this year

designed a special five euro coin
with a portrait of Chanel, described
the film as "a very light, very amus-
ing little bit of sparkle" but said he
did not want to leave her life to oth-
ers.

"I wanted to make this film

because there are so many films
about Chanel, I thought it would be
good for Chanel to make one too,"
he told reporters.

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Chanel, one of the grandest French term or temporary contracts. conglomerate, has cancelled a plan
fashion names, is to lay off 200 for a Louis Vuitton megastore in
Paris staff in an unmistakable sign Sixteen of the employees work in the Ginza district of Tokyo. Profits
that even the world's top luxury the firm's historic home in the Rue in the €170 billion (£165 billion)
brands are feeling the pinch in the Cambon where the late Coco global luxury market are still
global recession. Chanel dreamt up her little black expected to be substantial this year,
dresses and No 5 perfume in the but LVMH has lost 44 per cent of
Until recently, France's marques de 1920s. its share value in 2008. Richemont,
grand luxe were claiming immunity a Swiss company that owns Cartier
from the slump. Demand for the The company employs 16,000 peo- and Montblanc, has suffered a sim-
high end was holding up, driven by ple worldwide. “In the little world ilar share fall. Experts are predict-
the luxury appetites of the nou- of luxury goods, the news has had ing a 4 per cent decline in sales in
veaux riches of Russia, China and the impact of a bombshell,” said Le 2009.
other emerging powers, they said. Parisien newspaper. By coinci-
dence, French television was show- Not everyone is suffering to the
The denial has faded over the past ing the first part of an Italian- same degree. Swiss watchmakers
month as Russians and Asians have American mini-series on the life of have been hardest hit but Hermès,
been noticeably absent over Coco Chanel last night. the Paris leather goods and silk-
Christmas from the boutiques in the square company, has seen its share
Paris golden triangle off the In addition, two new biopics about price rise by nearly 16 per cent this
Champs Élysées and their equiva- the pioneering Paris couturière - year and expects its sales to grow
lents in London and New York. one starring Audrey Tatou - are to by about 10 per cent.
Business in Japan has slumped. reach cinemas in the coming
months. The trouble at Chanel is Some in the trade believe they
A week ago Chanel, privately mirrored across a French-dominat- are facing a harsh future after a
owned and secretive about its ed luxury goods industry, which decade in which greed and easy
affairs, called off a glitzy art show enjoyed an historic boom with sales money led to hubris. Alain Nemarq,
as it was about to arrive in London growth of about 10 per cent a year the chairman of Mauboussin, the
from New York. Over the weekend since 2003. prestige jewellery firm, said that
trade unions reported that the fash- the world of luxury had gone wild
ion house was to lay off all of its In another sign of hard times, in pursuit of the idea that nothing
200 Paris staff who are on fixed- LVMH, the world's biggest luxury could be too expensive and no prof-

738

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it margin too exorbitant. “The pur-
suit of exclusive trophies ... is fin-
ished,” he wrote in Le Figaro last
week. “We will now return to rea-
son, decency and discretion.”

Essence of style

Coco Chanel opened her first small

shop in Paris in 1909, selling hats
to actresses

The first Chanel perfume, No 5,

was created in 1921. La Société des
Parfums Chanel was founded in
1924

In 1928 Chanel introduced the little

black dress, hailed by Vogue as the
uniform of the modern woman

Wasn’t it five years ago that the

Chanel Group spent 45 million dol-
lars filming a silly three minute
commercial? I heard that Nicole
Kidman was paid fifteen million
dollars for the same three minutes
of work. Of course no one remem-
bers the commercial. Had to be
money well spent.

739

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 T´S BEEN FIVE YEARS SINCE BAZ The plot is a meeting between
I LUHRMANN surprised everyone strangers on an exotic trip from
with his fantastic Chanel N°5 ad Paris to Istanbul on the Orient
starring Nicole Kidman. Express. Audrey worked alongside
model Travis Davenport. The film
Audrey Tautou, who plays lasts just over 2 minutes, and it´ll
Coco Chanel in the long- be officially released on the 5th of
awaited biopic, will be the May, 88 years after Coco launched
muse of director Jean-Pierre her legendary perfume.
Jeunet in a trip on the Orient
Express. Chanel are on board Louis
Vuitton´s philosophy of travel as
It´s the new Chanel N°5 cam- the paradigm of luxury, the
paign that comes five years after escapism theme taking them to
the legendary ad starring Nicole exotic new places.
Kidman. Chanel knew that he´d set
a high standard, and that they´d Gee I wonder if this two minute
need a duo that could recreate the commercial is going to take five
magic of their campaigns. So they years and twenty million dollars to
chose Audrey Tautou, who plays film.
Coco Chanel in the soon-to-be-
released biopic, and Jean-Pierre Original cost of developing
Jeunet, whose films simply radiate Chanel N°5 five hundred francs?
magic... The result should be fasci- One never knows that Ernst Breux
nating. actually created the scent by acci-
dent.
The ad is finally here and the
official release is on the way very
soon. Today we´re bringing you the
first images: the production was
unlimited so it looks like a real
Jeunet-style film.

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It´s been five years since Baz
Luhrmann surprised everyone with
his fantastic Chanel N°5 ad starring
Nicole Kidman.
Audrey Tautou, who plays
Coco Chanel in the long-
awaited biopic, will be the
muse of director Jean-Pierre
Jeunet in a trip on the Orient
Express. It´s the new Chanel
N°5 campaign that comes five
years after the legendary ad
starring Nicole Kidman.
Chanel knew that he´d set a high
standard, and that they´d need a
duo that could recreate the magic of
their campaigns. So they chose
Audrey Tautou, who plays Coco
Chanel in the soon-to-be-released
biopic, and Jean-Pierre Jeunet,
whose films simply radiate magic...
The result should be fascinating.
One never knows that Ernst Breux
The ad is finally here and the offi- actually created the scent by acci-
cial release is on the way very soon. dent.
Today we´re bringing you the first
images: the production was unlim-
ited so it looks like a real Jeunet-
style film.
The plot is a meeting between
strangers on an exotic trip from
Paris to Istanbul on the Orient
Express. Audrey worked alongside
model Travis Davenport. The film
lasts just over 2 minutes, and it´ll
be officially released on the 5th of
May, 88 years after Coco launched
her legendary perfume.
Chanel are on board Louis
Vuitton´s philosophy of travel as
the paradigm of luxury, the
escapism theme taking them to
exotic new places.
Gee I wonder if this two minute
commercial is going to take five
years and twenty million dollars to
film.
Original cost of developing Chanel
N°5 five hundred francs?

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S HE GLIDES ON THE ARM OF A
TAIL-COATED SWAIN into an ele-
gant belle époque salon. Music
swirls, eyes swivel and no wonder.
Her thin black dress hugs a gamine
frame, a look of masculine confi-
dence rests on her face. Gabrielle
Bonheur Chanel, better known as
Coco, is making an entrance.
Fashion icon and designer is
to be played by both Anna
Mouglalis and Audrey Tautou
while Shirley MacLaine
took US TV role
It’s not her only one today
through a crowded maze of extras,
crew, stylists and film-set gofers or,
indeed, on other days. Coco Chanel
is making a lot of entrances on film
at the moment. Last year, I visited
the set of Chanel & Stravinsky, five
minutes’ walk from the Gare du
Nord, to see the rising French star
Anna Mouglalis as Coco opposite
the Danish Bond villain Mads
Mikkelsen. However, this is just
one of three on-screen incarnations
of the distinguished designer.
There is also Coco Avant Chanel
on the way this summer, a lavish
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confection starring Audrey Tautou,
and last year both French films
were preceded by the American tel-
evision mini-series Coco Chanel,
for which Shirley MacLaine barked
and purred and received a Golden
Globe nomination.
It doesn’t even stop there. Until
recently, there were at least two
other Chanel film projects on the
go. One was to be written and
directed by the French veteran
Danièle Thompson, while an
American version was rumoured to
be starring that noted demi-
mondaine Demi Moore. (There
will also be a book on Chanel from
Justine Picardie in the autumn.)
Not all of these could possibly have
reached fruition; there will be no
Chanel film No 5, or, indeed, four.
But three finished dramas on one
woman, however celebrated, seems
excuse enough to ask the question:
what on earth is going on?
One possible answer is that
these are just London buses. Films
sometimes come along in twos and
threes because film-makers often
think along uncannily similar lines.
742
Look at Truman Capote, the recent
subject of a pair of more or less
identical screenplays. And history
does have a habit of coughing up
figures who repeatedly stir the cre-
ative juices. This is usually because
there’s an insoluble riddle at the
heart of their story. Take the
civilised Nazi Albert Speer, or the
tragic Indian mathematician
Ramanujan, or the vanishing
yachtsman Donald Crowhurst
dramatists keep coming back to the
well because, in each case, there’s
no getting to the bottom.
It could be that Chanel belongs
in this gallery thanks to the distinct-
ly colourful company she kept. Her
brief dalliance with an aesthetic co-
revolutionary in Paris, in 1920, is
dramatised in Chanel & Stravinsky.
She was also pals with Cocteau,
Picasso and Chaplin, and spent the
war in occupied Paris under the
protection of a Nazi officer. It was
only thanks to her connections in
the highest reaches of the British
establishment that got her off the
hook, and only in the 1950s that she
dared return from Swiss exile.
Good material for a drama, surely?
Well, yes, except that none of these
films goes anywhere near her war
record. It’s not an easy slip to
explain in a heroine. The French
remain squeamish about stories that
shine a light on wartime collabora-
tion, but even the MacLaine mini-
series on the Lifetime Network,
with no French involvement, con-
trived not to mention the war.
The fascination of her early
years helps to explain Chanel’s
appearance on screen. It boils down
to two words: Edith Piaf. Marion
Cotillard’s Oscar-winning turn in
2007’s La Vie en Rose “opened the
idea of a biopic in France”,
explains Anne Fontaine, director
and co-writer of Coco Avant
Chanel. “The biopic is not a very
French tradition, but Chanel is one
of the best-known French figures in
the world, and I was astonished
someone hadn’t done a film on her
before.”
As dramatised in Coco Avant
Chanel, the designer, like Piaf, had
a troubled youth, out of which she
battled by sheer force of personali-
ty. Her mother died when she was
12, her father disappeared to
America in search of work, and she
spent the next seven years in an
orphanage run by nuns. As with La
Vie en Rose, the film will shine a
bright light onto a past the facts of
which are not widely known.
Edmonde Charles-Roux’s biogra-
phy, the bible of Chanel studies,
explained how the facts of her
youth were blurred by a clerical
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error at her birth in 1883, when a
clerk was left to guess that her sur-
name was spelt “Chasnel”. But
Chanel also abetted in the creation
of her own myth by changing her
birth date to 1893.
Although the nuns taught her to
sew, it was the stage that originally
attracted her. Like Piaf, she picked
up a nickname there, from singing
Ko Ko Ri Ko. Coco Avant Chanel
concentrates on the two affairs that
changed her destiny. The first was
with Etienne Balsan, a rich aristo-
crat in whose chateau, explains
Fontaine, “she discovers how privi-
leged women of the era dress, and
where she invents the very practical
clothes that come from riding on
horses and running in the fields”.
She then fell in love with the young
English blade “Boy” Capel, who
supported her early in her career
but whom she refused to marry
until she could pay off her debts to
him. As the film hints, her dedica-
tion to her career would leave no
room for marriage or children.
Capel, who married an English
aristocrat and broke her heart,
before dying in 1919, also appears
at the start of Chanel & Stravinsky,
when the heroine attends her first
classical concert. It just happens to
be the riotous premiere of Le Sacre
du Printemps in 1913. The idea that
Chanel could claim equal billing
with classical music’s first great
iconoclastic modernist was first
posited by Chris Greenhalgh in his
novel Coco and Igor, on which the casting of the less sylphlike
743
film is based. Both book and
screenplay pinpoint 1920 as the
year of Chanel’s efflorescence and
attribute it in part to the influence
of Stravinsky’s guiding revolution-
ary spirit. “Designers were second-
class citizens for a long time,”
Greenhalgh explains. “In the novel
and the screenplay, when
Stravinsky and Chanel have a fight,
she says, ‘I’m just as smart as you.
And as much of an artist.’ He says,
‘You’re not an artist, Coco. You’re
a shopkeeper.’ It’s perhaps a reflec-
tion of the increasing power and
significance of women that we’re
finally appreciating what she did
for them.”
Greenhalgh’s 2002 novel was
not the first effort to put the story of
Chanel’s liberation of women from
the corset at the heart of a fiction.
Before her death in 1971, Chanel
was able to witness her transmogri-
fication into a musical. Alan Jay
Lerner and André Previn collabo-
rated on Coco in 1969. Chanel was
delighted to discover she would be
played by a Hepburn; less so when
she found out she would be embod-
ied not, as she assumed, by the
clotheshorse Audrey but by the bat-
tle-axe Katharine. The show ran on
Broadway for more than 300 per-
formances. If Chanel goes on to
prosper in the cinema, don’t back
against the musical making a return
(like Pam Gems’s Piaf, recently
revived).
There was a ring of truth to the
Hepburn. The consensus is that
Chanel had the hide of a rhinocer-
os. “She was tough and quite cold,”
says Jan Kounen, the director of
Chanel & Stravinsky. “She was a
bit of a tyrant,” says Mouglalis.
“She built an empire at a time when
women were not working at all.
She was a fighter all her life. She
was angry about centuries of lack
of education for girls and wanted to
change that. I think she hated
women, because she wanted things
to change quickly and women were
going for the dresses, not the way
of life.”
reality, Karl Lagerfeld, chief
designer of Chanel since 1983, has
looked supportively on both pro-
ductions, supplying access to
designs and drawings (though not
much exists from 1920). His recent
collection opened with a short
black-and-white silent film called
Paris-Moscou: the house’s connec-
tion with Russian culture is clearly
not one he repudiates. Just don’t
expect him to produce a film enti-
tled Paris-Berlin. However many
times they dramatise the life of
Coco Chanel, some things remain
unsayable.

Rake-thin and with the bari-

tone voice of a seasoned smoker,
Mouglalis is ideal casting. They
obviously thought so at the
Lifetime Network, because she was
offered the part of the young Coco
for the mini-series before it went to
the Slovak actress Barbora
Bobulova. For her part, Fontaine
was not prepared to proceed with
Coco Avant Chanel until she found
the right actress. “If I hadn’t had
Audrey Tautou, I don’t think I
would have developed the project
because I needed an ideal inter-
preter to play Chanel. You can’t
imitate her. You have to have the
bodily proportions. If she’s too big,
it won’t work. If she’s too round, it
won’t work, either.”

In the spirit of pre-match spar-

ring, Coco Avant Chanel’s publici-
ty campaign is putting it about that
its film is the one officially recog-
nised by the House of Chanel. In

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 IKE A BABY IN A PRAM, FASHION
L IS ALWAYS READY TO THROW
AWAY THE OLD toy for the prospect
of some new and shiny bauble dan-
gled before it. That’s why fashion
reputations soon fade and even the
greatest names become nothing but
footnotes for academics. In fashion
as in everything else, however, the
bigger the noise, the longer its
echoes and, as in most areas of life,
the one who gets in first makes the
greatest impact.
Mystery surrounds the coutu-
rier from her illegitimate
birth in Saumur through her
depiction as revolutionary
and man-hater
Yet some survive by breaking
down the glass wall between fash-
ion and the real world to become
names known to all. In the 20th
century, there were three, Christian
Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and
Chanel and the most widely known
was Chanel, not because of what
she achieved, but because of what
she came to symbolise. Add to that
a name easily recognised, remem-
bered and pronounced (even now,
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within fashion, many are stumped
by the pronunciation
Schiaparelli, Ghesquière and many
of
others), and an iconic perfume
recognised the world over, and you
have the basis for a kind of immor-
tality.
Certainly, extravagant claims
have been made on Chanel’s
behalf, not least the sweeping judg-
ment of Diana Vreeland, high
priestess of 20th-century fashion
and editor in chief of American
Vogue in the 1960s. “Chanel
invented the 20th century for
women” is a claim more hyperbol-
ic than factual, but, like so much in
fashion, it is accepted without
question. She didn’t, any more than
she invented the little black dress,
the other claim made on her behalf.
What Chanel did and I love her for
it was fight the establishment with
all the guerrilla tactics of a born
outsider. She hated authority and
hated those who wielded it in her
day, even more so than now, men.
To know why, we need to look at
her background.
Gabrielle Chanel’s illegitimate
745
birth in 1883, to a peasant family, is
shrouded in mystery. It seems like-
ly that she was born in Saumur, in
western France. When she was a
child, her mother died and her
father abandoned her to be brought
up by the nuns, with iron discipline
and frequent beatings. Strange and
farouche, Chanel never trusted a
man again, and hated all forms of
authority for the rest of her life. Yet,
although she hated to recall those
early days, they had a great effect
on her fashion thinking. She was
the first couturier to use men’s fash-
ion and dress as the basis for wom-
enswear, and she chose the black
and white of the nuns’ habit to give
women’s clothing an authority that
she remembered from her convent
days. This was Chanel, however, a
woman so fatally scarred by her
early years that she could not resist
using fashion to avenge the lowly
position in which society had
placed her. Attracted to the upper
classes because they were the ones
who held the power in the first
decades of the 20th century, she
still couldn’t resist pulling them
down. In the aftermath of the first
world war, there was barely a fami-
ly in France or Britain that was not
in mourning. Women wore black,
often for several years. Chanel
found it boring. But she thought
back to the nuns, as well as noting
the dress of servants in the early
1920s, and decided that what was
needed to make black chic was
white at neck and cuffs. It also gave
her a frisson to dress the rich and
fashionable in the same way as
their servants.
Her class war continued with
the men. In a determined bid for
power, she became the mistress of
rich always rich and powerful
males able to set her up in business
and open all social doors. She used
them as they used her: as trophies
to attract more trophies. Much has
been written about her love affairs,
but Chanel remained silent on the
subject. There is no record of her
admitting to having any of them. I
believe that when her father aban-
doned her, he made it impossible
for her to love men, love being
based on the one thing she could
never give them: trust. But she
wore their clothes and adapted
them for women whether to
demean masculinity or to empower
women remains debatable.
It has been suggested many
times that Chanel was more at ease
with women than with men, but her
contempt for most of her sex, allied
to her vicious, uncompromising
tongue, terrified most women.
Again, she was attracted to power
players. She was a close friend of
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the socialite Misia Sert, who exer-
cised authority over the social,
artistic and fashionable world of
Paris throughout the 1920s. In her
last years, it was the independence
of American women who enjoyed
much more freedom than those in
Europe allied with their clean, fresh
fitness, that attracted her. She
adored the 1950s model Suzy
Parker, for example.
Was Chanel a lesbian? It has
been hinted at many times, but it
seems unlikely. But she was fond of
the world of male homosexuals, to
which Sert introduced her not
because they were gay but because
they were clever. Her high-profile
lovers, such as “Boy” Capel, the
Duke of Westminster and Grand
Duke Dmitri, had all inherited their
position and were generally consid-
ered rather limited, whereas
Cocteau, Dali and Diaghilev were
important for what they had
achieved. As a self-made woman,
Chanel always admired and envied
the achievements of others.
So, why has her name survived
where those of other designers,
equally important in her time, have
disappeared from current currency?
Was it because she was a woman?
Hardly: Paquin and Lanvin beat her
to that. A modernist? No: Poiret,
who released women from the
Edwardian constriction of corsets,
got there first. The fact that she put
women in informal casualwear?
No: her contemporary and detested
rival, Patou, was ahead of her.
746
Coco Chanel was not always a
trailblazer, but this shrewd little
businesswoman had learnt a thing
or two on her climb to the top.
Above all, she understood the job,
which was to sell clothes. Unlike
other couturiers, she professed to
be happy when she saw cheap
copies of her clothes on the streets
of Paris. Having started at the bot-
tom of the social heap, she knew all
about dreams and the need for aspi-
rations. For her, the models who
paraded down her catwalk were as
important as the clothes because “a
good model makes women in the
audience envious and this makes
them insecure, so they buy in order
to re-establish their self-esteem”.
This was 60 years before Versace
invented supermodels in the form
of Kate Moss and Naomi
Campbell. Such prescience is
entirely typical of her unique com-
bination of earthy reality and
romantic dreams. What did Chanel
have that has created a mania that
shows no sign of abating? Vreeland
once explained it to me: “She
understood all women because she
had been all women. She despised
men, yet she loved men. She had
been bullied and shamed, and she
bullied and shamed in her own way.
But, above all, she wanted women
to have the freedom that men took
as their own right.” That is why
Chanel’s name remains as strong as
ever.
 s we gear up for cultural
A Chanel-mania this summer
with two hagiographic films about
the designer, a new biography and
the sound of slavering from glossy
magazines, it is worth pausing to
investigate Coco Chanel's whole-
sale and retail involvement with the
Nazis.
Why is Coco Chanel getting a
free pass on her collaboration
with the Nazis? Her past was
deeply compromised
The world's greatest fashionista
may have rescued women from the
corset, but she did not have a good
war. When shoppers swoon over
the iconic quilted handbag with the
CC logo, most are unaware that
Chanel once went to Berlin to plot
with Walter Schellenberg, who
wore his Waffen SS logo as Hitler's
chief of foreign intelligence.
Perhaps Chanel-lovers also
have no idea that she tried to wrest
control of her perfume manufactur-
ing from a Jewish family, taking
advantage of pro-Aryan laws. Or
that she was arrested for war
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crimes and then mysteriously War!”
released.
Time heals, but sometimes it's
Previously, I'd seen it men- worth opening the wound again
tioned that Chanel had survived the when a reputation suddenly appears
war rather comfortably at the Paris to be sanitised. While Chanel's
Ritz in the arms of a Nazi officer, biographer, Edmonde Charles-
Hans Gunther von Dincklage, and Roux, says her style genius “con-
then gone into exile in Switzerland sisted in being incorruptibly sober
with him, but a few hours spent in and pure”, her life was less clean-
the library revealed that she was far cut. Paris during the occupation
more deeply involved with the was a compromising and uncom-
Germans than that. There was even fortable place for other artists and
a (somewhat ridiculous) Nazi plot, writers, who tended to keep their
using Chanel as bait, called heads down: “Oh, I am not looking
“Operation Modelhut”. for risks to take,” said Picasso, her
friend, “but in a sort of passive way
None of this will be discussed, I do not care to yield to either force
of course, in two upcoming biogra- or terror.”
phical films: Coco Avant Chanel,
starring Audrey Tautou, and Coco Edith Piaf sang in nightclubs
Chanel and Igor Stravinsky, with for the Nazis. Jean-Paul Sartre said:
Anna Mouglalis, about Chanel's “Everything we did was equivocal.
relationship with the Russian com- We never quite knew whether we
poser. Nor was it detailed in a were doing right or wrong. A subtle
Chanel television mini-series with poison corrupted even our best
Shirley MacLaine last year, or in actions.”
the 1981 film Chanel Solitaire.
With commercial good sense, all But Chanel was unequivocal.
films avoid the German invasion of She decided to place herself snugly
Paris and Chanel's collaboration. in the enemy's bosom, conveniently
It's a case of “Don't Mention The near to her shop. After the Paris
747
invasion she fled to the country, but Churchill and Chanel denounced those bags and little black dresses.
returned a year later to demand her as a German agent. Sales grew, Chanel was rehabilitat-
back her room at the Ritz, which ed, and history faded away. Now
had been commandeered by the It seems to me that Chanel bent she is merely a brand in Karl
Germans. There, aged 56, she to the times, always intent on sur- Lagerfeld's hands.
shacked up with von Dincklage, a vival. The French call this Système
German playboy officer 13 years D, or système débrouillard, which In his fascinating book, The
her junior, who may have been a means getting round the rules Shameful Peace, Frederic Spotts
spy and was known frivolously as somehow. As Charles-Roux notes, notes that “the occupation was mer-
“Spatz” or sparrow. “playing refugee was not her style”, ciless in exposing character”. Keep
hence Chanel's move to the Nazi- that in mind or, if you do go to the
Whatever his role, von infested Ritz. Who else could Chanel films this summer, turn off
Dincklage's coterie brought Chanel afford to buy her perfume? Later, your mobile phones, forget
into high Nazi circles, yet she when the law banned Jews from Chanel's compromised past and
remains inexplicably untarnished, owning companies, she tried to enjoy the show.
unlike Unity Mitford and Diana depose the Wertheimer family who
Mosley. It's hard to tell what the manufactured her scents. And
intentions of Operation Modelhut towards the end of the war, as the
were, but they included the peculiar Germans looked less than victori-
idea that one of Chanel's friends, ous, Chanel revived her largely
who knew Churchill well, would imaginary friendship with
pass a letter from her suggesting Churchill.
that there should be secret negotia-
tions to end the war. Chanel who After the war, thousands of the
had met Churchill once or twice at collaboratrices horizontales - sexu-
social events obviously saw herself al collaborators had their hair shorn
as a heroic figure in this. in public humiliations, yet Chanel
was arrested and soon released,
Schellenberg was interrogated though no one knows exactly who
by the British after the war con- among the Allies protected her.
cerning the visit in 1943 from “Frau Was it her connection with the
Chanel, a French subject and pro- Duke of Westminster? There's no
prietress of the noted perfume fac- proof, except that Chanel and her
tory”. According to the transcript: perfume royalties went into exile in
“This woman was referred to as a Switzerland for a decade, because
person Churchill knew sufficiently she was most definitely not wanted
to undertake political negations at home.
with him, as an enemy of Russia
and as desirous of helping France Chanel made a comeback in
and Germany whose destinies she 1956. The French papers panned
believed to be closely linked her collection as old hat: she was
together.” Operation Modelhut fell not forgiven. But across the
apart, and the mutual friend of Atlantic, the Americans just loved

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Paris -
TAUTOU, STAR OF
A UDREY
"AMELIE," takes to French
screens this week as the legendary
designer Coco Chanel and, coinci-
dentally or not, also takes over
from Nicole Kidman as front-
woman for Chanel Number 5 per-
fume.
"Coco avant Chanel," directed
by Anne Fontaine, is the latest
French biopic to ride the wave cre-
ated by "La vie en rose," which
gave Marion Cotillard her Oscar-
winning role as the tortured
chanteuse Edith Piaf.
"Coco Chanel's personality was
absolutely extraordinary but
beyond her genius and talent she
has everything that the heroine of
any great novel has," Tautou told
France Inter radio.
Tautou has stared out gravely
from billboards ahead of the launch
of the film, which got warm
reviews in the French press and
tells the story of Gabrielle "Coco"
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Chanel as she moves from occa- designer will be fuelled further by a
sional cabaret singer to revolu- separate film later this year that will
tioniser of women's fashion. concentrate on Chanel's relation-
ship with Russian composer Igor
Next month, she will also Stravinsky.
appear as the mysterious heroine of
a two minute advertisement for Brought up in an orphanage,
Chanel Number 5 shot by Jean- Coco Chanel took up early with a
Pierre Jeunet, director of "Amelie," wastrel playboy before taking her
the film that propelled her to star- first steps in fashion and opening a
dom in 2001. hat shop in the fashionable resort of
Deauville, displaying charm and
The short film, which took four iron-willed ambition in equal meas-
months to make, shows Tautou pur- ure.
sued by a handsome stranger on the
Orient Express train to Istanbul. It "She was a very hard, very
will replace a similarly elaborate authoritarian, very proud character
mini-film starring Australian and at the same time, this was a
Oscar-winner Nicole Kidman. period of her life when her charac-
ter wasn't entirely formed," Tautou
Chanel offered some items of said.
clothing and locations to the mak-
ers of "Coco avant Chanel" but is Chanel, who died in 1971, brought
otherwise unconnected to the film a new simplicity to women's
and a spokeswoman insisted that clothes after the elaborate styles of
Tautou's simultaneous appearance the pre World War One "Belle
in the advertising push was coinci- Epoque" and the little black cock-
dental. tail dress she created in 1926
remains a fashion staple to this day.
However surprising that may
seem, the coincidence is no doubt a But her formidable personality
welcome one and interest in the was at least as important as her
749
designing talent in creating the aura
of the Chanel name.

"A woman without a perfume is

a woman without a future," she
once declared and she backed her
own future by creating "Chanel
Number 5," which became the
biggest selling scent of all time.

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 he transport authority's deci-
T sion to remove the posters
because they were "unhealthy and
inappropriate" was condemned as
"ridiculous" by Chanel fans and
even by the man who drew up
France's draconian anti-smoking
laws.
The posters show Tautou as the
chain-smoking French creator of
the little black dress gazing sensu-
ously at the camera in silk pyjamas,
with a cigarette smouldering in her
right hand.
Chanel was 87 when she died
in 1971, despite smoking several
packets of cigarettes a day for most
of her life. It is rare to find photos
or her without a cigarette.
However, Metrobus, the com-
pany which runs advertising on
Paris' buses and trains, said that the
law came before historical accura-
cy.
"Cigarettes are banned on our
entire transport system, and there is
no reason why we should be giving
them free advertising through this
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film poster," a spokesman said. Even Claude Evin, the politi-
cian behind a 1991 anti-smoking
The film's producers were law, said the ban should not extend
obliged to provide an alternative to "cultural heritage".
poster showing Tautou with the
male lead. There is already concern that
another film due out later this year
But a representative of Warner about Serge Gainsbourg, the
France said that "for us, the real Gauloise-puffing crooner, will fall
poster is where Coco Chanel is foul of the no smoking rules. One
smoking in a natural pose that of his songs is entitled God smokes
translates her strong personality Havana cigars.
and her modernity".
Coco Before Chanel, the new
The ban comes days after a film starring Tatou, opened in
poster of Jacques Tati, one of France this week to wide critical
France's most enduring comic char- acclaim.
acters, was altered to conform to
French rules prohibiting the "direct It focuses on the early years of
or indirect" promotion of tobacco Gabrielle Chanel, nicknamed
products. The actor-director's "Coco" during her failed attempt to
trademark pipe was replaced with a launch a singing career. The film
yellow windmill a move which one sees her move from poverty-strick-
cinema expert said would have en orphan to early catwalk success,
made him "die laughing". but stops short of her controversial
affair with a Nazi officer at Paris's
Roselyne Bachelot, the health Ritz hotel during the Occupation.
minister, admitted that the rules
were being taken too far. "We're Next month the best-selling
getting pretty ridiculous with this," perfume Chanel No 5 unveils a new
she said. advertising campaign starring
Tautou, best known outside France
751
for her role in Amelie.

In another sign of Chanel

mania, a second film about her love
affair with the Russian composer
Igor Stravinsky will be released
later this year, as part of a new
found French craze for biopics
sparked by La Vie en Rose, the
Oscar-winning film on the life of
Edit Piaf, the troubled chanteuse.

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 TAUTOU, ONE OF THE right people to get ahead and, after Semitic". Chanel even tried to use
A UDREY
DARLINGS of the French cine-
ma since her appearance in the
the Germans occupied France in
1940, Chanel conducted an affair
the law banning Jews from owning
businesses to wrest control of her
2001 hit film Amelie, opens in cin- with the Nazi officer Hans Gunther perfume business from the
emas across France today in an von Dincklage at Paris’s Ritz hotel, Wertheimer family: She failed and
new film about the iconic French thus becoming one of France's the Wertheimers own House of
designer Coco Chanel. However, notorious "horizontal collabora- Chanel, along with various vine-
Coco Avant Chanel stops short of tors". yards, to this day.
depicting an aspect of the pioneer-
ing couturier the French would In his book, 1940-1945 Annees Such was Chanel's collusion
rather forget – that she was a Erotiques, the French historian with the Nazis that at one point
renowned Nazi collaborator and Patrick Buisson details how some after the war she was arrested and
anti-Semite. of his country's best-loved icons charged with war crimes before
disgraced themselves during the being mysteriously released. None
The Coco Chanel story is one war. "Coco Chanel or the actress of this, however, is dealt with in
of France's favourite fairytales. Arletty star of Les Enfants du French director Anne Fontaine's
Abandoned by her father and with Paradis were the incarnation of the new film which, as the title sug-
her mother dead, Gabrielle Chanel values of France: insolence, free- gests, deals with her early years
her real name was brought up by dom and in Chanel's case ele- when she tried to be a singer -
nuns who taught her to sew. From gance," Buisson told the Guardian. hence the nickname Coco - and bat-
those humble beginnings she grew "In their own way, each was an tled her way into the fashion busi-
to become one of the world's best icon. The fact that they could fall ness. Tautou, who is taking over
loved designers famed for tailoring for the occupier was not just a from Nicole Kidman as the face of
men's fashion to women's needs, transgression, it was damaging for Chanel No. 5, has said of Chanel:
inventing the little black dress and the national conscience.” "She was a very hard, very authori-
introducing round-necked jackets tarian, very proud character and at
and quilted handbags to wardrobes Similar sentiments are the same time, this was a period of
around the world. expressed by Carmen Callil in her her life when her character wasn't
recent book Bad Faith: A Forgotten entirely formed." That's one way of
However, there is a darker side History of Family, Fatherland and putting it.
to her story. It was often said that Vichy France where Chanel is
she was prepared to sleep with the described as "indomitably anti-

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A woman with glossy cinnamon-
brown skin lies beside a jewel-
bright swimming pool in a backless
black maillot. The shadow of a
passing airplane crosses her body,
just as an equally tan man, clad in
nothing but a tiny Speedo, material-
izes out of thin air on the other side
of the pool and dives in. Over a del-
icate vibraphone melody, a breathy
female voice says, “I am made of
blue sky and golden light. And I
will feel this way forever.” The
man emerges from the water and
disappears; the woman turns to face
the sun; a new voice issues an
unforgettable invitation: “Share the
fantasy. Chanel No. 5.”
The first time I saw those images
flash across a TV screen was on a
snowy Christmas night in the early
’80s. I was only nine years old, but
that commercial blew in on a hot
wind from some previously
untapped tropical zone in my imag-
ination: All of the things I hoped to
experience as a grown-up came to
me in a giddy rush glamour,
romance, mystery, luxury, a place
that obviously was not Kansas.
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I’d never smelled Chanel No. 5; I’d
never even heard of it. I had no idea
that Ridley Scott directed that par-
ticular commercial (as well as an
equally memorable Fountainhead-
reminiscent follow-up that
involved a skyscraper, a train, a
woman in a red dress, and a rendi-
tion of the Ink Spots’ “I Don’t Want
to Set the World on Fire”), that the
haunting music was by the same
composer who scored Chariots of
Fire, or that it was a prime example
of the kind of advertising alchemy
that has long defined the brand. All
I knew was that No. 5 stood for
something I couldn’t define but
very much wanted. To paraphrase
Liz Lemon, I wanted to go to there.
Perhaps more than any other fra-
grance, Chanel No. 5’s identity is
inextricably bound to the uncon-
ventional character of the woman
who was responsible for its cre-
ation. When, in 1921, Coco Chanel
was introduced to former Russian-
court perfumer Ernest Beaux by her
then-lover Grand Duke Dmitri
Pavlovich, she set him the chal-
lenging task of concocting a scent
that reflected her own personality,
754
something “abstract” and unique.
Furthermore, she requested that it
not smell like any particular flower
mono-floral scents were the fashion
at the time but rather a “composi-
tion.” Serendipitously, Beaux had
been experimenting with synthetic
fragrance molecules called aldehy-
des. When combined with an
accord of florals including ylang-
ylang, May rose, and jasmine
(which Coco bade him to be extrav-
agantly heavy-handed with; it was
then the costliest perfume oil in the
world), they created an effect of
marble smoothness, as if all of the
notes were breathing as one.
“Using aldehydes was a stroke of
genius,” says Christopher
Sheldrake, the deputy perfumer to
Chanel’s esteemed “nose” Jacques
Polge. “No. 5 was created in the art
deco era, and like so much art and
design from that period, it still feels
very modern and avant-garde
because of its complex mixture of
the natural and the man-made.” For
Polge, Chanel’s master perfumer
for more than 30 years, this unique
blend is the key not only to No. 5’s
enduring allure but also to the very
je ne sais quoi its wearers (like me)
seek to capture: “A great fragrance of No. 5’s association with beauti- ever seen.” For Hutton who is in
has to be mysterious and indefin- ful women and moreover, women many ways a quintessential No. 5
able,” he says. “It must never give who in some way represented an woman; a trailblazing, unconven-
everything away all at once. It’s the aspect of its multifarious appeal. tional beauty, an inveterate world
same as a person’s character the French actresses such as Catherine traveler that was the tale that sealed
most intriguing are those who Deneuve, who appeared in ads for the deal. “No. 5 was my favorite
reveal themselves bit by bit so that the scent throughout the ’60s and perfume. To me, it smells expen-
you’re always discovering some- ’70s, and Carole Bouquet, who lent sive and feminine and also reassur-
thing new about them.” her face to the brand in the ’80s and ing. But after that, I remember
’90s, underscored its sophistication thinking, Of course I love it; it
When I finally got my first bottle of and inscrutability (as well as its dis- comes from the real thing.”
Chanel No. 5, I was 20. I paid tinctly French sensuality: In a tele-
assiduous attention to perfumery vision commercial from the early The new face of the brand, Audrey
advice (apply it over unscented ’70s, Deneuve looks soulfully into Tautou, also has a particularly redo-
moisturizer if you want it to last; the camera and purrs, “He under- lent memory of the iconic juice.
dab it on the pulse points inside stands I cannot talk about feelings; “When I was a little girl, I had an
your elbows and behind your he lets me show him in other aunt in her thirties,” she says. “She
knees; spritz your ankles so the ways”). In the ’60s, fresh-faced displayed a bottle of Chanel No. 5
scent will blossom up), and it American models such as Cheryl in her library that looked huge to
inevitably made me feel a little Tiegs (whose No. 5 print ad was me. We were not allowed to touch
more soigné than the scruffy, self- shot one year before a Sports it, so it was a symbol of mystery,
conscious college student I saw in Illustrated cover catapulted her to the epitome of luxury. It was like a
the mirror. I knew that true worldli- locker-room ubiquity) and jewel.” Tautou exudes classic
ness and wisdom were still years pre–Love Story Ali MacGraw French chic but also a warm, quirky
away, but I hoped that by wearing embodied the spirit of youthful joie charm. Amélie director Jean-Pierre
No. 5 I was sending a message to de vivre that lies at the fragrance’s Jeunet, whom Chanel commis-
the world: I like the finer things in libertarian Jazz Age heart. sioned to create a short film starring
life, I can be trusted with a secret, Tautou (in the tradition of Baz
and there’s a pretty good chance Lauren Hutton, who was pho- Luhrmann’s 2004 collaboration
that I’m a lot of fun in the sack. tographed by Richard Avedon for a with Kidman), describes her as
No. 5 ad in 1968, remembers, “magnetic, moving, and unique”in
In 1954, a reporter asked Marilyn “Dick had spent a lot of time with other words, the embodiment of
Monroe what she wore to bed. “Just Coco in Paris, and he told me all those qualities we all want to con-
a few drops of No. 5,” she respond- about her apartment and about how vey when we wear No. 5. Tautou is
ed. Sales spiked. It’s hard to imag- she had been this adventurous also, of course, a dead ringer for
ine any other fragrance being a bet- young girl who had always done Mlle Chanel herself and will be
ter distillation of Monroe’s sex everything her own way. She took playing her in the upcoming biopic
appeal: ravishingly hot-blooded but him to Grasse, where the perfume Coco Avant Chanel, one of several
also delicate and elusive. Her is made, and showed him the films about the legendary designer
endorsement (she also reportedly mountains of pink rose heads that currently in production.
added a slug of the scent to her fre- go into the perfume. He said the
quent skin-firming ice-water baths) scent was so strong he swooned: It A couple of years ago, I visited
became the first in a long tradition was the most beautiful thing he had Chanel’s apartment above her bou-

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tique at 31, rue Cambon, which has Coco Chanel 1937
been preserved exactly as she left it
when she died in 1971. The scent of Lauren Hutton 1968
No. 5 hangs in the air as if she has
only moments ago exited stage left, Cheryl Tiegs 1969
muttering bons mots and rattling
faux pearls; her assistants used to Ali MacGraw 1971
spray it in the staircase when she
arrived at the front door, and it has Catherine Deneuve 1976
permeated the walls, the rugs, the
famous beige suede couch. It’s as Carole Bouquet 1987
much a part of the personality of
the place as her coromandel Estella Warren 2001
screens, Italian mirrors, and collec-
tion of crystal balls (in which she Nicole Kidman 2004
surely must have seen the future
damn, did that woman know what
would last). It was there that it
became clear to me what Beaux
managed to bottle when he stop-
pered that first flacon in 1921: an
attitude. Chanel was the ultimate
self-made woman, someone whose
confidence and sense of purpose
rendered her indelible. “How many
cares one loses when one decides
not to be something but to be some-
one,” she once said. Therein, I
think, lies the key to je ne sais quoi.
Anyone can tap into it; it’s just a
way of approaching the world.
Again, the most telling declaration
comes from the lips of Mlle Chanel
herself: When asked where a
woman should wear fragrance, she
responded, “Wherever she expects
to be kissed.” Not wants to be
kissed, mind you. Expects. That
pretty much sums it up. April Long

The Women of Chanel

Marilyn Monroe

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The film’s release comes at a cru-
cial time for France’s century-old
fashion house where staff morale
hit a low at the end of last year
when Chanel announced it was
shedding 10 per cent of its work-
force. This is due to losses that
have been attributed to a steep
decline in sales of its luxury goods:
a trend which even the brand’s
timeless classically-cut tweed suits,
quilted handbags, and N°5 perfume
failed to buck.
French daily Le Parisien report-
ed that "in the little world of luxury
goods, the news had the impact of a
bombshell," indicating people’s
surprise when they learned that
even France’s grandest fashion
house wasn’t immune to the luxury
sales recession.
French director Anne
Fontaine’s costume drama on the
early life of Coco Chanel hit cine-
ma screens in France on 22 April.
French film critics lavished praise
on the film’s artistic quality and on
the "reverse elegance" of the cos-
tumes designed by Catherine Coco Before Chanel with English
Leterrier, which illustrate the subtitles will follow later this year.
Chanel style in the making. A second film, Coco & Igor, will be
shown at the Cannes film festival
They also applauded the stellar next month, starring Marina Hands.
performances of Audrey Tautou as It is directed by William Friedkin
the determined, “petit taureau noir” and tells the story of Chanel's love
and Benoît Poelvoorde who plays affair with the Russian composer
the designer’s first lover, Etienne Igor Stravinsky .
Balsan.
Audrey Tautou fans will also be
Despite rave reviews in France pleased to know that she'll feature
this past week, Fontaine's cinemat- in the new Chanel N°5 perfume ad,
ic celebration of Coco Chanel’s directed by Jean-Pierre Jeunet (of
youth has attracted more than its Amélie), due to be released on 5
fair share of criticism abroad. May, no less than 88 years after
Coco Chanel launched her leg-
Several British newspapers led endary perfume.
the way, panning Fontaine’s film
for ignoring Chanel’s controversial
affair with a Nazi officer in Paris
during the Occupation. Coco
Before Chanel also had a run-in
with the transport authorities in
Paris who slapped a ban on posters
showing Audrey Tautou smoking.
This as part of her new role as the
"50-a day" designer, the depiction
of which authorities deemed
"unhealthy and inappropriate".
International screenings of

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Like a baby in a pram, fashion is
always ready to throw away the old
toy for the prospect of some new
and shiny bauble dangled before it.
That’s why fashion reputations
soon fade and even the greatest
names become nothing but foot-
notes for academics. In fashion as
in everything else, however, the
bigger the noise, the longer its
echoes and, as in most areas of life,
the one who gets in first makes the
greatest impact.
Mystery surrounds the couturier
from her illegitimate birth in
Saumur through her depiction as
revolutionary and man-hater
Yet some survive by breaking
down the glass wall between fash-
ion and the real world to become
names known to all. In the 20th
century, there were three, Christian
Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and
Chanel and the most widely known
was Chanel, not because of what
she achieved, but because of what
she came to symbolise. Add to that
a name easily recognised, remem-
bered and pronounced (even now,
within fashion, many are stumped birth in 1883, to a peasant family, is
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by the pronunciation of
Schiaparelli, Ghesquière and many
others), and an iconic perfume
recognised the world over, and you
have the basis for a kind of immor-
tality.
Certainly, extravagant claims
have been made on Chanel’s
behalf, not least the sweeping judg-
ment of Diana Vreeland, high
priestess of 20th-century fashion
and editor in chief of American
Vogue in the 1960s. “Chanel
invented the 20th century for
women” is a claim more hyperbolic
than factual, but, like so much in
fashion, it is accepted without ques-
tion. She didn’t, any more than she
invented the little black dress, the
other claim made on her behalf.
What Chanel did and I love her for
it was fight the establishment with
all the guerrilla tactics of a born
outsider. She hated authority and
hated those who wielded it in her
day, even more so than now, men.
To know why, we need to look at
her background.
Gabrielle Chanel’s illegitimate
758
shrouded in mystery. It seems like-
ly that she was born in Saumur, in
western France. When she was a
child, her mother died and her
father abandoned her to be brought
up by the nuns, with iron discipline
and frequent beatings. Strange and
farouche, Chanel never trusted a
man again, and hated all forms of
authority for the rest of her life. Yet,
although she hated to recall those
early days, they had a great effect
on her fashion thinking. She was
the first couturier to use men’s fash-
ion and dress as the basis for wom-
enswear, and she chose the black
and white of the nuns’ habit to give
women’s clothing an authority that
she remembered from her convent
days.
This was Chanel, however, a
woman so fatally scarred by her
early years that she could not resist
using fashion to avenge the lowly
position in which society had
placed her. Attracted to the upper
classes because they were the ones
who held the power in the first
decades of the 20th century, she
still couldn’t resist pulling them
down. In the aftermath of the first
world war, there was barely a fami-
ly in France or Britain that was not
in mourning. Women wore black,
often for several years. Chanel
found it boring. But she thought
back to the nuns, as well as noting
the dress of servants in the early
1920s, and decided that what was
needed to make black chic was
white at neck and cuffs. It also gave
her a frisson to dress the rich and
fashionable in the same way as
their servants.
Her class war continued with
the men. In a determined bid for
power, she became the mistress of
rich always rich and powerful
males able to set her up in business
and open all social doors. She used
them as they used her: as trophies
to attract more trophies. Much has
been written about her love affairs,
but Chanel remained silent on the
subject. There is no record of her
admitting to having any of them. I
believe that when her father aban-
doned her, he made it impossible
for her to love men, love being
based on the one thing she could
never give them: trust. But she
wore their clothes and adapted
them for women whether to
demean masculinity or to empower
women remains debatable.
It has been suggested many
times that Chanel was more at ease
with women than with men, but her
contempt for most of her sex, allied
to her vicious, uncompromising
tongue, terrified most women.
Again, she was attracted to power
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players. She was a close friend of
the socialite Misia Sert, who exer-
cised authority over the social,
artistic and fashionable world of
Paris throughout the 1920s. In her
last years, it was the independence
of American women who enjoyed
much more freedom than those in
Europe allied with their clean, fresh
fitness, that attracted her. She
adored the 1950s model Suzy
Parker, for example.
Was Chanel a lesbian? It has
been hinted at many times, but it
seems unlikely. But she was fond of
the world of male homosexuals, to
which Sert introduced her not
because they were gay but because
they were clever. Her high-profile
lovers, such as “Boy” Capel, the
Duke of Westminster and Grand
Duke Dmitri, had all inherited their
position and were generally consid-
ered rather limited, whereas
Cocteau, Dali and Diaghilev were
important for what they had
achieved. As a self-made woman,
Chanel always admired and envied
the achievements of others.
So, why has her name survived
where those of other designers,
equally important in her time, have
disappeared from current currency?
Was it because she was a woman?
Hardly: Paquin and Lanvin beat her
to that. A modernist? No: Poiret,
who released women from the
Edwardian constriction of corsets,
got there first. The fact that she put
women in informal casualwear?
No: her contemporary and detested
759
rival, Patou, was ahead of her.
Coco Chanel was not always a
trailblazer, but this shrewd little
businesswoman had learnt a thing
or two on her climb to the top.
Above all, she understood the job,
which was to sell clothes. Unlike
other couturiers, she professed to
be happy when she saw cheap
copies of her clothes on the streets
of Paris. Having started at the bot-
tom of the social heap, she knew all
about dreams and the need for aspi-
rations. For her, the models who
paraded down her catwalk were as
important as the clothes because “a
good model makes women in the
audience envious and this makes
them insecure, so they buy in order
to re-establish their self-esteem”.
This was 60 years before Versace
invented supermodels in the form
of Kate Moss and Naomi
Campbell. Such prescience is
entirely typical of her unique com-
bination of earthy reality and
romantic dreams.
What did Chanel have that has
created a mania that shows no sign
of abating? Vreeland once
explained it to me: “She understood
all women because she had been all
women. She despised men, yet she
loved men. She had been bullied
and shamed, and she bullied and
shamed in her own way. But, above
all, she wanted women to have the
freedom that men took as their own
right.” That is why Chanel’s name
remains as strong as ever.
She glides on the arm of a tail-coat-
ed swain into an elegant belle
époque salon. Music swirls, eyes
swivel and no wonder. Her thin
black dress hugs a gamine frame, a
look of masculine confidence rests
on her face. Gabrielle Bonheur
Chanel, better known as Coco, is
making an entrance.
Fashion icon and designer is
to be played by both Anna
Mouglalis and Audrey Tautou
while Shirley MacLaine
took US TV role
It’s not her only one today through
a crowded maze of extras, crew,
stylists and film-set gofers or,
indeed, on other days. Coco Chanel
is making a lot of entrances on film
at the moment. Last year, I visited
the set of Chanel & Stravinsky, five
minutes’ walk from the Gare du
Nord, to see the rising French star
Anna Mouglalis as Coco opposite
the Danish Bond villain Mads
Mikkelsen. However, this is just
one of three on-screen incarnations
of the distinguished designer. There
is also Coco Avant Chanel on the
way this summer, a lavish confec-
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tion starring Audrey Tautou, and
last year both French films were
preceded by the American televi-
sion mini-series Coco Chanel, for
which Shirley MacLaine barked
and purred and received a Golden
Globe nomination.
It doesn’t even stop there. Until
recently, there were at least two
other Chanel film projects on the
go. One was to be written and
directed by the French veteran
Danièle Thompson, while an
American version was rumoured to
be starring that noted demi-
mondaine Demi Moore. (There will
also be a book on Chanel from
Justine Picardie in the autumn.) Not
all of these could possibly have
reached fruition; there will be no
Chanel film No 5, or, indeed, four.
But three finished dramas on one
woman, however celebrated, seems
excuse enough to ask the question:
what on earth is going on?
One possible answer is that these
are just London buses. Films some-
times come along in twos and
threes because film-makers often
think along uncannily similar lines.
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Look at Truman Capote, the recent
subject of a pair of more or less
identical screenplays. And history
does have a habit of coughing up
figures who repeatedly stir the cre-
ative juices. This is usually because
there’s an insoluble riddle at the
heart of their story. Take the
civilised Nazi Albert Speer, or the
tragic Indian mathematician
Ramanujan, or the vanishing
yachtsman Donald Crowhurst
dramatists keep coming back to the
well because, in each case, there’s
no getting to the bottom.
It could be that Chanel belongs in
this gallery thanks to the distinctly
colourful company she kept. Her
brief dalliance with an aesthetic co-
revolutionary in Paris, in 1920, is
dramatised in Chanel & Stravinsky.
She was also pals with Cocteau,
Picasso and Chaplin, and spent the
war in occupied Paris under the
protection of a Nazi officer. It was
only thanks to her connections in
the highest reaches of the British
establishment that got her off the
hook, and only in the 1950s that she
dared return from Swiss exile.
Good material for a drama, surely?
Well, yes, except that none of these
films goes anywhere near her war
record. It’s not an easy slip to
explain in a heroine. The French
remain squeamish about stories that
shine a light on wartime collabora-
tion, but even the MacLaine mini-
series on the Lifetime Network,
with no French involvement, con-
trived not to mention the war.
The fascination of her early years
helps to explain Chanel’s appear-
ance on screen. It boils down to two
words: Edith Piaf. Marion
Cotillard’s Oscar-winning turn in
2007’s La Vie en Rose “opened the
idea of a biopic in France”,
explains Anne Fontaine, director
and co-writer of Coco Avant
Chanel. “The biopic is not a very
French tradition, but Chanel is one
of the best-known French figures in
the world, and I was astonished
someone hadn’t done a film on her
before.”
As dramatised in Coco Avant
Chanel, the designer, like Piaf, had
a troubled youth, out of which she
battled by sheer force of personali-
ty. Her mother died when she was
12, her father disappeared to
America in search of work, and she
spent the next seven years in an
orphanage run by nuns. As with La
Vie en Rose, the film will shine a
bright light onto a past the facts of
which are not widely known.
Edmonde Charles-Roux’s biogra-
phy, the bible of Chanel studies,
explained how the facts of her
youth were blurred by a clerical
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error at her birth in 1883, when a
clerk was left to guess that her sur-
name was spelt “Chasnel”. But
Chanel also abetted in the creation
of her own myth by changing her
birth date to 1893.
Although the nuns taught her to
sew, it was the stage that originally
attracted her. Like Piaf, she picked
up a nickname there, from singing
Ko Ko Ri Ko. Coco Avant Chanel
concentrates on the two affairs that
changed her destiny. The first was
with Etienne Balsan, a rich aristo-
crat in whose chateau, explains
Fontaine, “she discovers how privi-
leged women of the era dress, and
where she invents the very practical
clothes that come from riding on
horses and running in the fields”.
She then fell in love with the young
English blade “Boy” Capel, who
supported her early in her career
but whom she refused to marry
until she could pay off her debts to
him. As the film hints, her dedica-
tion to her career would leave no
room for marriage or children.
Capel, who married an English
aristocrat and broke her heart,
before dying in 1919, also appears
at the start of Chanel & Stravinsky,
when the heroine attends her first
classical concert. It just happens to
be the riotous premiere of Le Sacre
du Printemps in 1913. The idea that
Chanel could claim equal billing
with classical music’s first great
iconoclastic modernist was first
posited by Chris Greenhalgh in his There was a ring of truth to the
novel Coco and Igor, on which the casting of the less sylphlike
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film is based. Both book and
screenplay pinpoint 1920 as the
year of Chanel’s efflorescence and
attribute it in part to the influence
of Stravinsky’s guiding revolution-
ary spirit. “Designers were second-
class citizens for a long time,”
Greenhalgh explains. “In the novel
and the screenplay, when
Stravinsky and Chanel have a fight,
she says, ‘I’m just as smart as you.
And as much of an artist.’ He says,
‘You’re not an artist, Coco. You’re
a shopkeeper.’ It’s perhaps a reflec-
tion of the increasing power and
significance of women that we’re
finally appreciating what she did
for them.”
Greenhalgh’s 2002 novel was not
the first effort to put the story of
Chanel’s liberation of women from
the corset at the heart of a fiction.
Before her death in 1971, Chanel
was able to witness her transmogri-
fication into a musical. Alan Jay
Lerner and André Previn collabo-
rated on Coco in 1969. Chanel was
delighted to discover she would be
played by a Hepburn; less so when
she found out she would be embod-
ied not, as she assumed, by the
clotheshorse Audrey but by the bat-
tle-axe Katharine. The show ran on
Broadway for more than 300 per-
formances. If Chanel goes on to
prosper in the cinema, don’t back
against the musical making a return
(like Pam Gems’s Piaf, recently
revived).
Hepburn. The consensus is that
Chanel had the hide of a rhinocer-
os. “She was tough and quite cold,”
says Jan Kounen, the director of
Chanel & Stravinsky. “She was a
bit of a tyrant,” says Mouglalis.
“She built an empire at a time when
women were not working at all.
She was a fighter all her life. She
was angry about centuries of lack
of education for girls and wanted to
change that. I think she hated
women, because she wanted things
to change quickly and women were
going for the dresses, not the way
of life.”
Karl Lagerfeld, chief designer of
Chanel since 1983, has looked sup-
portively on both productions, sup-
plying access to designs and draw-
ings (though not much exists from
1920). His recent collection opened
with a short black-and-white silent
film called Paris-Moscou: the
house’s connection with Russian
culture is clearly not one he repudi-
ates. Just don’t expect him to pro-
duce a film entitled Paris-Berlin.
However many times they drama-
tise the life of Coco Chanel, some
things remain unsayable.

Rake-thin and with the baritone

voice of a seasoned smoker,
Mouglalis is ideal casting. They
obviously thought so at the
Lifetime Network, because she was
offered the part of the young Coco
for the mini-series before it went to
the Slovak actress Barbora
Bobulova. For her part, Fontaine
was not prepared to proceed with
Coco Avant Chanel until she found
the right actress. “If I hadn’t had
Audrey Tautou, I don’t think I
would have developed the project
because I needed an ideal inter-
preter to play Chanel. You can’t
imitate her. You have to have the
bodily proportions. If she’s too big,
it won’t work. If she’s too round, it
won’t work, either.”

In the spirit of pre-match sparring,

Coco Avant Chanel’s publicity
campaign is putting it about that its
film is the one officially recognised
by the House of Chanel. In reality,

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 As we gear up for cultural and then mysteriously released. War!”
Chanel-mania this summer with
two hagiographic films about the Previously, I'd seen it men- Time heals, but sometimes it's
designer, a new biography and the tioned that Chanel had survived the worth opening the wound again
sound of slavering from glossy war rather comfortably at the Paris when a reputation suddenly appears
magazines, it is worth pausing to Ritz in the arms of a Nazi officer, to be sanitised. While Chanel's
investigate Coco Chanel's whole- Hans Gunther von Dincklage, and biographer, Edmonde Charles-
sale and retail involvement with the then gone into exile in Switzerland Roux, says her style genius “con-
Nazis. with him, but a few hours spent in sisted in being incorruptibly sober
the library revealed that she was far and pure”, her life was less clean-
Why is Coco Chanel getting a more deeply involved with the cut. Paris during the occupation
free pass on her collaboration Germans than that. There was even was a compromising and uncom-
with the Nazis? Her past was a (somewhat ridiculous) Nazi plot, fortable place for other artists and
deeply compromised using Chanel as bait, called writers, who tended to keep their
“Operation Modelhut”. heads down: “Oh, I am not looking
The world's greatest fashionista Related Links for risks to take,” said Picasso, her
may have rescued women from the friend, “but in a sort of passive way
corset, but she did not have a good None of this will be discussed, I do not care to yield to either force
war. When shoppers swoon over of course, in two upcoming biogra- or terror.”
the iconic quilted handbag with the phical films: Coco Avant Chanel,
CC logo, most are unaware that starring Audrey Tautou, and Coco Edith Piaf sang in nightclubs
Chanel once went to Berlin to plot Chanel and Igor Stravinsky, with for the Nazis. Jean-Paul Sartre said:
with Walter Schellenberg, who Anna Mouglalis, about Chanel's “Everything we did was equivocal.
wore his Waffen SS logo as Hitler's relationship with the Russian com- We never quite knew whether we
chief of foreign intelligence. poser. Nor was it detailed in a were doing right or wrong. A subtle
Chanel television mini-series with poison corrupted even our best
Perhaps Chanel-lovers also Shirley MacLaine last year, or in actions.”
have no idea that she tried to wrest the 1981 film Chanel Solitaire.
control of her perfume manufactur- With commercial good sense, all But Chanel was unequivocal.
ing from a Jewish family, taking films avoid the German invasion of She decided to place herself snugly
advantage of pro-Aryan laws. Or Paris and Chanel's collaboration. in the enemy's bosom, conveniently
that she was arrested for war crimes It's a case of “Don't Mention The near to her shop. After the Paris

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invasion she fled to the country, but Churchill and Chanel denounced those bags and little black dresses.
returned a year later to demand her as a German agent. Sales grew, Chanel was rehabilitat-
back her room at the Ritz, which ed, and history faded away. Now
had been commandeered by the It seems to me that Chanel bent she is merely a brand in Karl
Germans. There, aged 56, she to the times, always intent on sur- Lagerfeld's hands.
shacked up with von Dincklage, a vival. The French call this Système
German playboy officer 13 years D, or système débrouillard, which In his fascinating book, The
her junior, who may have been a means getting round the rules Shameful Peace, Frederic Spotts
spy and was known frivolously as somehow. As Charles-Roux notes, notes that “the occupation was mer-
“Spatz” or sparrow. “playing refugee was not her style”, ciless in exposing character”. Keep
hence Chanel's move to the Nazi- that in mind or, if you do go to the
Whatever his role, von infested Ritz. Who else could Chanel films this summer, turn off
Dincklage's coterie brought Chanel afford to buy her perfume? Later, your mobile phones, forget
into high Nazi circles, yet she when the law banned Jews from Chanel's compromised past and
remains inexplicably untarnished, owning companies, she tried to enjoy the show.
unlike Unity Mitford and Diana depose the Wertheimer family who
Mosley. It's hard to tell what the manufactured her scents. And
intentions of Operation Modelhut towards the end of the war, as the
were, but they included the peculiar Germans looked less than victori-
idea that one of Chanel's friends, ous, Chanel revived her largely
who knew Churchill well, would imaginary friendship with
pass a letter from her suggesting Churchill.
that there should be secret negotia-
tions to end the war. Chanel who After the war, thousands of the
had met Churchill once or twice at collaboratrices horizontales sexual
social events - obviously saw her- collaborators had their hair shorn in
self as a heroic figure in this. public humiliations, yet Chanel was
arrested and soon released, though
Schellenberg was interrogated no one knows exactly who among
by the British after the war con- the Allies protected her. Was it her
cerning the visit in 1943 from “Frau connection with the Duke of
Chanel, a French subject and pro- Westminster? There's no proof,
prietress of the noted perfume fac- except that Chanel and her perfume
tory”. According to the transcript: royalties went into exile in
“This woman was referred to as a Switzerland for a decade, because
person Churchill knew sufficiently she was most definitely not wanted
to undertake political negations at home.
with him, as an enemy of Russia
and as desirous of helping France Chanel made a comeback in
and Germany whose destinies she 1956. The French papers panned
believed to be closely linked her collection as old hat: she was
together.” Operation Modelhut fell not forgiven. But across the
apart, and the mutual friend of Atlantic, the Americans just loved

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 "MUSES" release is a symbolic one: 5 May peak.
T HERE ARE
THERE ARE "FACES".
AND THEN
The differ-
ences between the two are subtle
2009 is 88 years to the day since
No 5 was introduced. Chanel is big The new commercial couldn't
but manifold. A muse is principally on symbolism, as anyone who fol- be more different from Luhrmann's
a cost-free affair, based on friend- lows the fortunes of the iconic all-singing, all-dancing extravagan-
ship more often than not. A face, French brand will be quick to testi- za and that is nothing if not a sign
on the other hand, is a high-earner, fy. Whatever, No 5 went on to of the times. The high-camp nostal-
likely to secure many millions for become the world's bestselling fra- gia and movie-star glamour that its
any services required. grance the powers that be at Chanel predecessor depicted would seem
claim that a product bearing its rather too ostentatious and too
Although the figure was never name (be it in the form of scent, obviously escapist, perhaps in the
disclosed it's simply bad manners soap or bath oil) is sold every six current climate.
in circles like these to talk about seconds.
such things it is estimated that Despite the apparently intimate
Nicole Kidman was paid upwards The forthcoming film depicts nature of Jeunet's offering, howev-
of $4 million (and some put the the beautiful, doe-eyed and quin- er, it remains what might not unrea-
figure as high as $12) when she tessentially Gallic Tautou en route sonably be described as a mega-
agreed to become the face of the from Paris to Istanbul aboard the production. A crew of 25 people
world's most famous fragrance, Orient Express, tantalisingly cross- reportedly worked on it for three
Chanel No 5. ing paths with the model Travis weeks last May, filming every-
Davenport. In its complete form, it where from Paris to Limoges and,
This month, and after no less runs for around two-and-a-half of course, Turkey. "Even in the
than five years, she will be replaced minutes but, as with the preceding world of advertising, it can be said
by French-born Audrey Tautou. campaign in that instance, Ms that the house of Chanel works in
The fruits of this most recent sign- Kidman directed by Baz Luhrmann an unparalleled level of comfort,"
ing, a short film directed by Jean- there will also be a shorter, tele- Jeunet told a fashion trade paper
Pierre Jeunet, who cast Tautou as vised version. Expect any home earlier this year.
the lead in both Amelie and A Very worth its TV licence to be positive-
Long Engagement, goes online this ly bombarded where these are con- It is safe to assume, given the
Tuesday. cerned, particularly in the run-up to status of the brand in question, that
Christmas when, for obvious rea- the company's motives are far from
The date of the campaign's sons, sales of fragrance reach their altruistic. It's no secret that it is the

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fragrance division of any fashion pulse where selecting the woman her new-found grandeur in a suite
house that makes it a globally suc- who might best represent its prod- at the Paris Ritz.
cessful phenomenon. And there are uct is concerned. From Ali
few more globally successful phe- MacGraw pre-Love Story to 3. Marilyn Monroe, 1960
nomenons in history than Chanel Catherine Deneuve and, more
No 5. recently, from Kate Moss to Keira When asked by an interviewer
Knightley, Chanel has consistently in 1954 what she wore in bed,
Neither is the choice of Tautou selected its faces extremely careful-
Marilyn Monroe answered "a few
as Kidman's successor in any way ly, safe in the knowledge that the drops of Chanel No 5". Though
random. Coco avant Chanel, the right woman or indeed man will with this one sentence she probably
long-awaited biopic of Gabrielle prove to be worth far more than cemented its reputation as the most
"Coco" Chanel's life, directed by their weight in gold. desirable fragrance in the world,
Anne Fontaine, and starring the she was paid not a penny for the
gamine French actress, has just A lot of bottle: The many faces of endorsement and was never offi-
been released in France. It will fol- Chanel cially the face of the scent.
low worldwide later on in the year.
1. Coco Chanel, 1921 4. Ali McGraw, 1966
For her part, Tautou, who
claims to have turned down other The first ever commercial for While the power of celebrity
potentially lucrative campaigns, Chanel No 5 was an illustration endorsement was by this time a
has said: "I needed to have a con- depicting the couturier herself. recognised commodity, this picture
nection with the product." Compared to today's big-budget of the young actress Ali MacGraw
campaigns, it may seem almost was in fact taken a good four years
The powers that be at Chanel, whimsical. It was executed by the before she attained superstar status
however, insist that, whether the Parisian caricaturist of his age, for her role in 'Love Story'. This
film is the hit it is expected to be or Sem, and showed Mademoiselle in campaign was a departure because
not, that is not the reason behind all her slim-hipped, pioneeringly MacGraw is American, reflecting
Tautou's employment. "There's no androgynous glory gazing up to the No 5's by now global appeal, but
marketing move behind it," heavens in apparent rapture at a also because her childlike beauty
Chanel's president of fragrance and bottle of Chanel No 5. was nothing if not testimony to the
beauty, Andrea d'Avack, claims, thinking of the age.
pointing out that another movie, 2. Coco Chanel, 1937 – Gabrielle
Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky, Chanel 5. Catherine Deneuve, 1972
this time directed by Jan Kounen
and to be released in the autumn, is By this time the golden age of Although the great French
also in the pipeline. "I personally photography had dawned. This pic- actress might seem like the most
believe there are things in l'air du ture was shot by Francois Kollar, obvious choice in the world, her
temps. There is a general interest famed for his often surrealistic employment as the face of Chanel
for Coco Chanel." style, as seen most prolifically in No 5 was actually considered a risk
the pages of 'Harper's Bazaar' mag- at the time. She was best known for
Whichever way one chooses to azine. Again, Gabrielle Chanel her- the 1968 Luis Bunuel art film,
look at it, this is a brand which has self is the subject, now at the height 'Belle de Jour', for which she was
always had its finger firmly on the of her fame and photographed in all dressed not by Chanel but by Yves

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Saint Laurent, and she was still
barely known outside France. Even
so, her icy and highly sophisticated
beauty was the perfect fit with the
scent.
6. Carole Bouquet, 1986
Bunuel also captured the
extraordinary beauty of Carole
Bouquet, this time in 'That Obscure
Object Of Desire'. Unlike Deneuve,
however, five years prior to signing
with Chanel, Bouquet had shot to
international fame as the Bond girl,
playing alongside Roger Moore in
the 1981 film, 'For Your Eyes
Only'. The former wife of Gerard
Depardieu, Bouquet is perhaps the
ultimate ultra-chic Parisian beauty.
What more, then, could an ultra-
chic Parisian brand wish for?
7. Vanessa Paradis, 1991
Hardly the most emancipated
image of womanhood, this cam-
paign for the not quite so classic (at
the time) fragrance, Coco, featured
Vanessa Paradis shot by Jean-Paul
Goude dressed in almost nothing
but feathers and twittering merrily
in a gilded cage apparently inspired
by one Mlle Chanel had in her own
apartment.
8. Inspired by Andy Warhol, 1997
It is nothing if not testimony to
Chanel No 5's iconic status that, in
the 1950s, the transparent beauty of
its bottle was immortalised by
Andy Warhol. Never a company to
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miss a trick, almost half a century modesty. The current face of Coco
later Chanel bought the rights to Mademoiselle, hers is a rather more
use the work to advertise the scent. fresh-faced image than Ms Moss's.
In this instance, the focus is on the
product itself rather than a woman.
9. Kate Moss, 2003
Perhaps the most mainstream
choice of them all, Kate Moss was
the perfect face to represent the
younger fragrance, Coco
Mademoiselle, giving it a London-
girl edge that no other actress or
model could rival. In 2005 and fol-
lowing the infamous 'Mirror'
exposé of her drug-taking habits,
Moss's contract wasn't renewed,
although Chanel always insisted
there was no link between the two
events.
10. Nicole Kidman, 2004
The face of No 5 for half a decade,
Kidman is rumoured to have
received between $4m and $12m
for her services. As well as shoot-
ing a film with the 'Moulin Rouge'
director Baz Luhrmann, plus a print
campaign, she went so far as to
make an appearance on the Chanel
catwalk in the very black velvet
gown she's photographed in here.
11. Keira Knightley, 2007
Speculation was rife as to
whether this image of the boyish
Ms Knightley had been enhanced –
she is not, after all, famous for her
curves, here proudly on display
with only a bowler hat to hide her
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 HERE’S SOMETHING UNSETTLING myself is a strong spirit, intelli-
T ABOUT SEEING AUDREY
TAUTOU, because she looks uncan-
gence and pride,” says Tautou
which is doubtless true, but their
nily like the designer Coco Chanel. physical resemblance is also
Not that I ever met Mademoiselle instantly evident. I’ve spent
(as she was known to her staff months in historical archives,
throughout her career), for she died searching out photographs to illus-
in 1971, at the age of 87. trate the Chanel biography I am
writing, and both women have a
She charmed us all as the similarly powerful presence,
ingenue in Amelie, but despite their slightness of stature
Audrey Tatou's new role, (Tautou is 5ft 3in, and as slender as
playing the fashion legend Chanel), with high cheekbones and
Coco Chanel, porcelain pale skin, bobbed hair
is far more complex and mys- and dark eyes. They are the epito-
terious me of chic Parisians, but come
from the same rural region of
But here I am, on a spring after- France Auvergne, several hundred
noon in Paris, in the glittering suite miles south of the capital city. “It’s
of a palace hotel, trying not to stare the centre of France, the heart of
at Tautou, having just watched her the country, far from the sea, and
in two different incarnations of very isolated, with volcanic moun-
Chanel: the heroine of Anne tains,” says Tautou.
Fontaine’s film Coco avant Chanel,
and the new face of Chanel No 5, a “There’s something about the
perfume that has come to represent landscape that makes the
the woman who launched it, in Auvergnat strong-minded.” She
1922, as well as the millions of had a more stable childhood than
women around the world who feel Chanel: Coco (born Gabrielle) was
it to be their own. the daughter of an itinerant pedlar,
who abandoned her and her two
“What I recognise of Chanel in sisters in an orphanage after their
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mother died; Tautou, the eldest of
four children, was brought up by
both parents (her father is a dental
surgeon, her mother a teacher). But
as Tautou speaks, I am reminded of
Colette’s description of Chanel in
1932 as a “little black bull”, her
“despotic” eyebrows, arched above
“eyes the colour of granite”. You
can see the same determination in
Tautou’s face, when she flashes a
look that says, “Don’t mess with
me.”
No wonder, then, that the house
of Chanel should have chosen her
for its latest No 5 commercial, to be
launched on Tuesday the fifth day
of the fifth month, in accordance
with Mademoiselle Chanel’s super-
stitious attachment to her lucky
number. Directed by Jean-Pierre
Jeunet, who worked with Tautou on
Amélie, it was filmed on the Orient
Express, from Paris to Istanbul, and
features a romance between two
travellers: a handsome young man
(played by the American model
Travis Davenport) falls for gor-
geous Audrey, and traces her by her
scent.
 Tautou’s role is that of an elu- who had set up a laboratory in unforgettable memories that can
sive mystery woman, and she plays Grasse, in the south of France. She suddenly appear from nowhere,
a similar game in interviews, as asked him to create “a perfume like a gust of wind hitting your
Chanel used to do. Neither dis- such as never before been made” face.” Thus No 5 reminds her of
cussed their love life. Tautou has unlike any of the heavy, floral for-herself as a small child, in her
never confirmed the speculation mulas fashionable at the time and aunt’s house. “She had placed her
that she is involved with Lance Beaux came up with 10 different bottle on a shelf, and at the time it
Mazmanian, a writer. And she samples. Chanel chose the fifth bot-seemed enormous to me. Even
proves herself equally adept at side- tle, pronouncing it to be the perfect
then, it symbolised luxury, refine-
stepping questions about the previ- blend, “a woman’s perfume, with a ment and mystery. I used to tell
ous faces of No 5, who include woman’s scent”, and naming it myself that every spray of the fra-
Marilyn Monroe, Catherine “Number Five my lucky number. It grance was the height of luxury.”
Deneuve and, most recently, Nicole will be Chanel No 5”. Touching her aunt’s bottle was
Kidman. “For me, Chanel No 5 is a “strictly forbidden”, and even now,
legend in itself,” she says. “You can Tautou doesn’t attach quite the she says, she wears her perfume
wear it, offer it as a gift and share it, same importance as Chanel did to “like a secret”.
but it transcends all the women who numbers. (Chanel based many of
have embodied the fragrance before her designs on fives, along with That might seem implausible
me.” Instead, Tautou concentrates other signifiers in her much-dupli- given her high-profile association
on her link with Chanel. “I don’t cated iconography No 19, for with a vast global brand, but in this,
compare myself with these great example, denoted her birthday on as in other matters, Audrey Tautou
actresses, I don’t see myself as part August 19.) But Tautou does tell speaks in a manner suggestive of
of their lineage. I feel closer to the the following anecdote: “I can be a Coco Chanel. For although Chanel
fragrance itself, its history and even bit of a fetishist. The day it was became an instantly recognisable
Coco Chanel.” announced that I was the new face label in her own lifetime, she also
of Chanel No 5, on May 5 the fifth remained an intensely private
The history of No 5 is inextri- of the fifth I was in New York. The women, intent on keeping a great
cably woven into the narrative of number of my hotel room was 555. many secrets to herself. Justine
Chanel’s life, the details of which Nobody had asked for that number Picardie’s biography of Coco
she told and retold in a number of in particular I just went into the Chanel will be published by
different and intriguing ways. The room that had been allocated to me. HarperCollins this autumn
truth if there can be such a thing in And I said to myself that it was
a designer who understood the very strange.”
power of the looking glass, of dou-
bling and multiplying reflections in Despite the overlapping coinci-
a succession of artfully placed mir-
dences and similarities, Tautou
rors is being reshaped again, in doesn’t agree with Chanel’s maxim
Coco avant Chanel. But the outlineof “A woman who doesn’t wear
of the story goes something like perfume has no future”, but she is
this. clearly aware of the seductive
power of fragrance, and its poten-
In the early 1920s, Chanel met tial to evoke memory, as well as
Ernest Beaux, an expert perfumer desire. “You have this store of

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C ERTAIN SCENTS HAVE HAD THEIR
MOMENTS: Yves Saint Laurent
Rive Gauche is emblematic of the
1970s; Obsession, by Calvin Klein,
the 1980s. But no fragrance engen-
ders total recall like Chanel No 5.
We know the box. We know the
bottle. We know the scent. And in a
business where 600 new perfumes
hit the beauty counters each year,
this is no mean feat.
Launched in 1921, Chanel No
5 remains the most coveted
perfume on the market, its
position still unchallenged
nearly nine decades later.
In perfumery, No 5 is affection-
ately known as le monstre a bottle
of it is sold every 55 seconds some-
where in the world. That said, the
scent is impossible to summarise in
a note. 'Powdery’ and 'vanilla-y’
are as close as most get to a
description. Chandler Burr, the
New York Times perfume critic,
describes it conceptually (and bril-
liantly) as 'like a bank of hot
searchlights washing the powdered
stars at a movie premiere in Cannes
on a dry summer night’. But that
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
still doesn’t capture the actual
smell. And the reason this is so
hard to do is that No 5 is an abstract
scent, the world’s first. Before it
most women wore single-note flo-
rals (rose, violet and gardenia), tra-
ditional smells in whimsical bottles
that Coco Chanel felt did nothing
to promote the fragrance inside. In
fact she was dismissive about per-
fume altogether, believing it to be
nothing more than a slightly repug-
nant mask for body odour. Then
she met the nose Ernest Beaux.
They were introduced by her
lover, the Grand Duke Dmitri
Pavlovich. Beaux had been a per-
fumer to the Russian court and, like
Pavlovich (who had played a part
in the murder of Rasputin), he now
lived in exile in Biarritz. He was
already an accomplished nose his
creations included a cologne,
Bouquet de Napoleon, and the
mysterious Bouquet de Catherine
and he liked to experiment.
Inspired by this, Mademoiselle
Chanel commissioned him, recog-
nising the potential to reinvent
scent, just as she had women’s
fashion.
770
Her perfume was to be 'un par-
fum de femme, à l’odeur de femme
(the scent/smell of a woman)’. And
while it could be floral, it was to be
a synthetic composition that was
not like anything else. Beaux
acknowledged that any scent that
represented the couturier should be
pioneering Chanel had, after all,
changed the face of fashion with
her simple alternative to the decora-
tive Edwardian wardrobe; so she
would expect a scent that broke
boundaries.
Having experimented with
aldehydes, synthetic floral notes as
other perfumers had been doing
since the 19th century Beaux knew
they would make a perfect top note,
as they give an abstract impression
of flowers. When you smell No 5
you don’t just get a hit of rose or
another exact aroma, you smell a
figurative floral composition; but
the genius of it is you know that
rose is in there somewhere. It is this
'mysterious sensation’, as
Christopher Sheldrake, Chanel’s
director of research and develop-
ment, describes it, that is part of No
5’s allure. He maintains its endur-
ing appeal is down to 'an enormous nity fixed when they were not bro-
amount of good taste and good luck ken forever losing what made them
on the part of Chanel and Beaux’. magnificent. Not No 5. While
Chanel has created new interpreta-
Beaux was the first to stabilise tions of No 5 to meet changes in
the aldehydic molecules in scent; fashion and habits most recently, in
and, as he found, as well as giving 2008, the lighter No 5 Eau
perfume an elusive quality they Première by Jacques Polge no
brought the real notes alive and adjustments have been made to the
made them sing. He said the impact original (the rose extract is still har-
they had on No 5 was like 'lemon vested by the same family farm that
juice on strawberries’ – the 'straw- Chanel bought to maintain aroma
berries’ being principally the per- continuity).
fume’s heart notes May rose and
jasmine. To the aldehydic top note This week (on May 5, the day
Beaux also added ylang ylang from No 5 debuted in 1921), the nlatest
the Comoro Islands and neroli, and inventive campaign a romantic film
No5’s base notes sandalwood and directed by Jean-Pierre Jeunet and
Bourbon vanilla. starring Audrey Tautou was
released online (Tautou is also star-
The name (said to have been ring as Coco Chanel in the forth-
chosen because it was the fifth sam- coming film of Chanel’s life). Stills
ple Beaux presented to Chanel, and of the three-minute ad had been
which she knew would be timeless popping up on networking sites
because a number needs no transla- such as Bebo weeks before the
tion), and the simple bottle, a bril- launch, but Chanel went with the
liant foil to the fanciful ones around flow, acknowledging that it intro-
it and tweaked only slightly since it duces No 5 to an audience and per-
was first designed, are recognisable haps a younger one.
parts of contemporary culture.
Andy Warhol made No 5 a subject Smart, but not surprising, given
for one of his screen prints, which how No 5 has always led the way,
Chanel reproduced as a limited-edi- reinventing itself through the world
tion box in 1982 a resourcefulness it rules like a queen bee. It is quite
visible throughout No 5’s exis- a performance, and the show gets
tence. better and better.

Great pains have been taken to

ensure that No 5 smells the same
now as it did when it launched in
1921, not the norm in contempo-
rary perfumery. Many classics have
been 'edited’ in the name of moder-

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S HE LIBERATED WOMEN FROM THE
CORSET. Her friends included
Cocteau, Picasso and Chaplin. She
had a love affair with Russian com-
poser Igor Stravinsky. No wonder
Coco Chanel (1883-1971) is the
muse for the coolest names in fash-
ion - from Kate Moss and Jefferson
Hack to Nicole Kidman.
When news broke last week
that English National Ballet
dancers will wear Chanel haute
couture for a special production to
celebrate the centenary of the influ-
ential troupe Ballets Russes, it was
further evidence that the world has
gone Coco mad.
Chanel's visionary creative
director, Karl Lagerfeld key to its
eternal modernity - has designed a
series of outfits for the production
at Sadler's Wells in June, including
a tulle dress studded with camellias
(Coco Chanel's favourite flower).
You can't step out of doors
without encountering Chanel's face
on billboards all iconic bobbed
hair, high cheekbones and porce-
lain skin. Two rival films about her
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life are set to open. pearls, sailor stripes and little black
Coco Avant Chanel, starring
dress and elevated simplicity to the
height of luxury. She was the only
French actress Audrey Tautou, designer to be named on Time mag-
looks at her early life. Later this azine's 100 most influential people
month, Coco Chanel & Igor of the 20th century.
Stravinsky, with rising French star
Anna Mouglalis as Coco, will take At Paris Fashion Week, pub-
the prestigious closing slot at lisher Jefferson Hack threw a party
Cannes. in "Coco's" private apartment, in
the Rue Cambon. The first floor of
On top of this, Tautou is the the Chanel boutique downstairs
new face of Chanel No 5. The was turned into a bar and dance
advert, which first screened last floor.
week (directed by Jean-Pierre
Jeunet, who worked with Tautou on As Lagerfeld chatted upstairs,
Amélie), is set on the Orient in Mme Chanel's dining room, with
Express and features a romance Moss and Jamie Hince, on the floor
between two travellers. below, Stefano Pilati danced up a
storm with Milla Jovovich and the
And this autumn HarperCollins International Herald Tribune's Suzy
publishes a new biography, simply Menkes.
titled Coco Chanel, by Justine
Picardie. According to British writer
Chris Greenhalgh, whose novel
So why does she haunt us still? was made into the film Coco
Rake-thin, cigarette eternally in Chanel & Igor Stravinsky, her life
hand, Chanel embodied modernist was always destined for the biopic.
chic.
"There had been a film on
She gave us a look both con- Marie Antoinette, about Edith Piaf,
temporary and classic suntans, fake about Joan of Arc... so she was
772
next. But obviously she had a rags
to riches story, so there's a
Cinderella element. She was an
orphan, went to a free school and a
convent, and basically by a mixture
of luck and hard work, she made it.
"But mixed in with the fairytale
there's a tragic element. She was in
love with several men who died on
her; the love of her life married an
aristocrat, because she wasn't high-
born enough. The Duke of
Westminster she was in love with
him but she wouldn't give up her
work.
"So she was an independent
woman, a trailblazer but the
tragedy is she never married even
though she was desperate to have
children. And then there's her art-
work. To produce classics in one
genre is astonishing, in terms of her
clothes and her black and white
designs, but to do it as well with
perfume, is doubly amazing. She
was a tremendously shrewd busi-
nesswoman but she was also a gen-
uine artist."
Liz Walker, fashion consultant
for Marie Claire, agrees: "She was
immensely stylish. There was also
something a bit naughty about her.
"Her life was quite exciting -
living at the Ritz, the jewels, the
fabulous houses. But she was a
visionary. If you look back at pic-
tures, it was amazing how early she Chanel suit and enjoyed a huge
wore trousers, while people around resurgence, helped by Jackie
her were in Edwardian clothes." Kennedy's patronage.
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In 1913, Chanel introduced In 1969 her life become a
women's sportswear at her new Broadway musical Coco. Chanel
boutique in Deauville. She ushered was delighted to discover she
in a "new breed" of self-confident would be played by a Hepburn; less
women who played sport, drove so when she found out it wasn't
and went to nightclubs. clotheshorse Audrey but Katharine.
Chanel died aged 87 at the Ritz, and
"I gave women a sense of free- was buried in Switzerland but her
dom; I gave them back their bodies: style lives on in a new generation of
bodies that were drenched in sweat, Chanel-maniacs.
due to fashion's finery, lace,
corsets, underclothes, padding," Fashion icons such as Ines de la
she boasted. Fressange and Lady Amanda
Harlech have proved you can wear
She designed costumes for the a Chanel jacket with jeans, while
Ballet Russes and launched her fra- actresses from Catherine Deneuve
grance, Chanel No. 5, in 1921 (the and Keira Knightley to Tautou
first to have a designer's name queue up to be the face of Chanel
attached to it). But Mademoiselle No 5.
(as she was known to her staff)
could be tough and quite cold. But will fashion's grande dame
be embraced by the children of the
"Fashion design was seen as a Noughties? I should Coco.
second-class artform," says
Greenhalgh. "She wasn't seen as Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky
part of high society, she was seen as closes Cannes on 24 May.
a dressmaker. Her life was one long
determined effort to prove she was Liz Walker will be discussing the
someone to be reckoned with." life of Coco Chanel at a Searcy's
Club lunch at 30 Pavilion Road,
In 1954, after a period of exile SW1 on 28 May (tickets £49.50,
following Second World War, Coco including lunch. Call 0207 823
returned to Paris and to a different 9212)
fashion audience. The French
papers panned her new collection.
But the Americans loved those
quilted bags and little black dress-
es.
She reinvented the classic
773
Often consumers are baffled by the
array of terminology used by the
fragrance industry. What does the
acronym EDP stand for? What does
the word "cologne" actually mean?
How are they different from one
another?
One of the fundamental things to
learn in the fragrance world is the
differences in potency among the
various formulas. It's not as rigidly
defined as, say, the alcohol indus-
try. The alcohol industry is regulat-
ed by US Bureau of Alcohol,
Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives
(ATF) and the Alcohol and Tobacco
Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).
In the cosmetics industry, of which
fragrances are a category, the
Federal Trade Commission (FTC)
controls advertising while the Food
and Drug Administration (FDA)
controls ingredients. However, no
board or governing body actually
controls the definitions of fragrance
definitions by virtue of strength.
Instead, this is carved out of tradi-
tion and here is a rough guideline:
Eau de Cologne: Women's Eau de
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
Cologne is an alcohol-water based EDT and an EDP based on either
perfume solution containing a 3% the price tag or lasting power.
perfume compound, which is dif- However, with fragrances being
ferent from the Men's Cologne, typ- fragrances, it's not always that sim-
ically with 5%-8% perfume com- ple. Keep in mind that some scents
pound. have great variations in the formu-
las found in these different
Eau de Toilette: strengths.
Alcohol- or water-based perfume Luca Turin, the gold standard for
solution containing 6%-15% per- fragrance reviewers, claims in his
fume compound. book "Perfumes: The Guide" (co-
written by Tania Sanchez) that in
Eau de Parfum: the legendary Chanel No. 5 there is
an unexpected example of how the
Alcohol-based perfume solution variation in each formula affects
containing 15%-25% perfume the composition. In this case, that
compound. variation makes the EDT (from the
50's) a noticbly different fragrance
Parfum: from the EDP (an 80's structure)
and, strangely, more similar to the
Alcohol-based perfume solution original Parfum (still the classic
containing 20%-50% perfume 1921 formula).
compound.
Of Chanel No.5 Eue de Parfum,
A rule of thumb is that the higher Turin states that "after the nice
the perfume compound, the aldehydic start and floral heart,
stronger and the more long-wearing there are whiffs of polysantal.
it is. Of course, the price goes up There seems to be no point in buy-
along with strength. So, as far as ing this if you want the real thing".
making fragrance choices goes, one Ouch! This is where fragrances get
normally might decide between an personal. I, myself, am on Team
774
EDP. Personally, I love the intense-
ly aldehydic smell of the EDP and
the way it lingers hours later and
still smells the same.

I agree with Turin that it is different

from the EDT and I like it better. So
be careful how you shop! The price
tag may affect your buying decision
but in the end it's how the fragrance
works on your skin that matters. Be
certain that you are selecting your
signature scent in the right strength
for your personal chemistry and it
will truly be yours.

Are you on Team EDT or Team

EDP?

Chanel No. 5 can be found in

departments stores throughout the
Metro DC area in Eau de Toilette,
Eau de Parfum, and Parfum,
$ 50.00 - $ 260.00.

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 WILD BUNCH DISTRIBUTION (
A in France ) / Sony Pictures
Classics ( in U.S. ) release of a
Eurowide Film Production produc-
tion, in association with Hexagon
Pictures, Cinemage 3, with partici-
pation of Canal Plus, TPS Star,
Wild Bunch.
International sales:
Wild Bunch, Paris.) Produced
by Claudie Ossard, Chris Bolzli.
Co-producer, Veronika Zonabend.
Directed by Jan Kounen.
Screenplay, Kounen, Carol de
Boutiny, Chris Greenhalgh, based
on the book "Coco & Igor" by
Greenhalgh.
With:
Mads Mikkelsen, Anna
Mouglalis, Elena Morozova,
Natcha Lindinger, Grigori
Manoukov, Rasha Bukvic, Nicolas
Vaude, Anatole Taubman, Eric
Desmarestz, Clara Guelblum,
Maxime Danielou, Sophie Hasson,
Nikita Ponomarenko.
As its title promises, Gallic bio-
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drama "Coco Chanel & Igor
Stravinsky" delivers an impressive
combo of sights and sounds in its
depiction of the brief, tumultuous
affair the two artists had in the
early 1920s. However, on a dramat-
ic level, Dutch-born helmer Jan
Kounen’s hyper-stylized, emotion-
ally vacuous film is like a pair of
designer pants that look great but
don’t fit, or a rare vinyl recording
that keeps skipping at the best
parts. Coming in the wake of the
more genuine "Coco Before
Chanel," Cannes closer should
offer fewer returns for Sony
Classics, which acquired both titles
for U.S. release.
Kicking off where Anne
Fontaine’s film left off, but focus-
ing on an even shorter timeframe
during which Chanel (Anna
Mouglalis) became Stravinsky’s
(Mads Mikkelsen) artistic benefac-
tor as well as his lover, pic offers a
darker second chapter to the
designer’s long biography. All
that’s missing to complete the trilo-
gy is a controversial account of her
affair with an SS officer and ties to
the Nazi regime ("Coco & Hitler,"
776
anyone?), a fairly important event
that both films tactfully ignore.
What’s problematic about
Kounen’s script (written in collabo-
ration with Chris Greenhalgh,
whose book "Coco & Igor" was the
basis for the movie) is that by lim-
iting events to the affair but never
providing much in terms of back-
ground, development or meaning-
ful dialogue, the film makes it diffi-
cult to invest in all the goings-on in
and out of the bedroom. The fact
that both characters (but especially
Chanel) are depicted as first-rate
jerks who like to belittle their
friends and colleagues doesn’t
make caring about them any easier.
The film nonetheless kicks off
with a promising, tour-de-force
sequence set during the 1913 Paris
premiere of Stravinsky’s legendary
modernist ballet, "Le Sacre du
printemps," which is considered
one of the great artistic scandales of
the 20th century. Captured in
swooping, chiaroscuro crane shots
by d.p. David Ungaro and niftily
cut together by editor Anny
Danche, the coverage glides from
backstage to stage to the increas- Chanel model since 2002, portrays Variety is striving to present the
ingly rowdy audience, until the pro- the designer (perhaps accurately) as most thorough review database. To
duction finishes with the lights on fashion’s first queen of mean, but report inaccuracies in review cred-
and lots of unhappy customers. overdoes her scowl to annoying its, please click here. We do not
effect. Mikkelsen ("Casino currently list below-the-line credits,
Chanel is glimpsed admiring Royale"), who looks here like a although we hope to include them
the hijinks from her seat, and the younger, beefed-up Christopher in the future. Please note we may
action soon cuts to seven years Walken, gives Stravinsky an not respond to every suggestion.
later, when she runs into Stravinsky imposing physical presence that Your assistance is appreciated.
at a flapper party and proposes to makes it hard to believe he’s a
set him up at her country estate for musical genius.
financial reasons, though her true
intentions seem rather obvious. The Despite his dramatic failings,
hiccup is that the musician also has Kounen ("99 Francs,"
four pleasant children nd a loving, "Doberman") does provide plenty
ailing wife, Catherine (Elena of robust visuals that are set to both
Morozova), who, like the audience, the composer’s awesome oeuvre
spots the affair coming like a 10- and to strong additional music by
ton truck. Gabriel Yared. Handsome produc-
tion design by Marie-Helene
When that moment arrives, and Sulmoni includes somber art-deco
occupies the latter two-thirds of the interiors that convey the film’s
movie, the narrative grows both sense of stylized claustrophobia.
repetitive and conventional, oscil-
lating between sex scenes, jealous- Camera:
wife scenes and uninspired scenes
in which an "inspired" Stravinsky (color, Panavision widescreen),
composes his "Symphonies for David Ungaro; editor, Anny
Wind Instruments" and "Five Easy Danche; music, Gabriel Yared; pro-
Pieces" and Chanel develops her duction designer, Marie-Helene
infamous No. 5 perfume. While the Sulmoni; costume designer,
two never have much to discuss, Chattoune & Fab; sound (Dolby
their lovemaking is handled with Digital SRD), Vincent Tulli,
much gloss and little inventiveness, Raphael Sohier, Loic Prian; visual
especially in a scene that has them effects supervisor, Rodolphe
doing it, uh, on the composer’s Chabrier; choreography,
piano bench. Dominique Brun; assistant director,
Dominique Delany; casting, Gigi
Given very little to work with Akoka. Reviewed at Cannes Film
beyond visual cues, the thesps Festival (closer, noncompeting),
function like powerful eye candy May 23, 2009. Running time: 118
with no distinctive flavor. MIN.
Mouglalis ("Nightcap"), an actual

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Chanel has joined forces with the
Venice Simplon-Orient-Express
(VSOE), filming its latest commer-
cial, which debuted on May 5th, for
the classic perfume No.5 aboard the
venerable luxury train.
In the film, acclaimed French
director Jean-Pierre Jeunet brings
to life the romantic and seductive
meeting of a man (model Travis
Davenporte) and a woman (French
actress Audrey Tautou, the newly
appointed face of Chanel No.5)
while aboard the VSOE.
Davenporte's character falls in love
with Tautou's character and her
intoxicating scent during the jour-
ney...but he never dares approach
her. Arriving in Istanbul - the final
destination of the VSOE - the two
lose sight of each other, only to be
reunited by the unforgettable fra-
grance of Chanel No.5.
"I was always drawn to the
mystery and intrigue of trains: the
re-launch of Chanel No.5 was the
ideal occasion to create a meeting
suspended in time," says Jeunet.
The sophisticated and opulent set-
ting of the VSOE mixed with the
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sensuality and passion evoked by
Chanel No.5 are an ideal fusion
mirrored by the passion and attrac-
tion between the two characters.
In New York, department store
Saks Fifth Avenue partnered with
Chanel in this promotion, and from
May 5 - 10, seventeen window
dressings inspired by the film fea-
tured selections from the brand's
ready-to-wear collection.
For a preview of the short film,
visit the chanel web site.
From Dream to Reality on the
Orient-Express: The journey from
Paris to Istanbul aboard the Venice
Simplon-Orient-Express costs from
£4,570 (approximately US$6,958)
per person with only one departure
each year. This year the journey
begins on August 28th. Regular
journeys from London via Paris to
Venice and vice versa are scheduled
from March to November. Prices
are from £1,550 (approximately
US$2,360) per person. For more
information on the Venice
Simplon-Orient-Express, please
visit our web site.
778
London, England "Coco" charts the couturier's actress to take on the role: "When
early life an almost fairytale jour- Anne explained how she intended
ney from orphaned cabaret per- to treat the subject, I immediately
OR "COCO AVANT C HANEL" former in Moulins to the 20th agreed," Tautou told CNN.
F director Anne Fontaine, there Century's foremost fashion design-
was only one actress who could er. "She knew she was predestined
play Coco Chanel in her biopic for this role," says Fontaine. "She
about the legendary couturier Fontaine, who also wrote the has this 'little black bull' side to her,
French actress Audrey Tautou. script for "Coco," says the film a grace, finesse, and an irrefutable
would have been impossible with- charisma."
In "Coco Avant Chanel," out Tautou: "For me, it was the
French actress Audrey Tautou beginning of the story to have a "Coco" focuses on the years
plays Coco Chanel, founder of the good interpretation of Coco if not, I Chanel spent living with wealthy
iconic Parisien haute couture wouldn't have written the script." socialite, Etienne Balsan. Balsan,
house, Chanel. played brilliantly by Benoit
But, while Tautou's unmistak- Poelvoorde, introduces her to the
Already uncannily similar in able similarity to Coco Chanel Parisian high society and fashion --
looks, Tautou's strong performance made her an obvious choice for the lavishness the wide-eyed Chanel
breathes life into Gabrielle "Coco" role, the striking actress says she rapidly acclimatized to.
Chanel, the fiery designer who wasn't interested in doing a "birth
would found iconic Parisian haute to death" biopic of the designer. "Chanel looked at everything.
couture house, Chanel. Her culture was not one of knowl-
"It seemed to me that the peri- edge, but a culture of observa-
From the way she holds her od when Coco was building herself tions," says Fontaine.
cigarette to Coco's famously sharp and asserting her personality is the
gaze, Tautou is a dead-ringer for most interesting in her life," says It was during this time Coco's
the young Coco. Tautou who rose to international own style and creativity began to
prominence in quirky 2001 drama, blossom partly in disgust at the
"She is perfect for the part," "Amelie." unnecessary extravagance of
Fontaine told CNN. "She has this upper-class style during the gaudy
determination and authority." It was Fontaine's vision that years of the late Belle Epoque in
finally convinced the 32 year-old France.

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 Designers of the time projected
their image of the ideal woman
onto the corsets and elaborate hats
they created for them to wear. Coco
rejected that ideal, opting to build a
style based solely on herself, liber-
ating the female body from the con-
stricting style of the time.
"She's the beginning of the
modern woman," said Fontaine.
Unlike other recent film forays
into the fashion world, "Coco
Before Chanel" is less about the
clothes and accessories and more
about the intellectual and philo-
sophical evolution of one of fash-
ion's greatest minds.
Don't Miss
"Coco" stops short of telling the
story of Chanel's darker years in
Nazi-occupied Paris during WW2,
when she took up residence at the
Ritz Hotel and was criticized for
her affair with Hans Gunther von
Dincklage, a Nazi officer.
Chanel's early years, taking liber- "The portrayal was not in the
ties with the script to get some of costume, not in the superficial side
Chanel's most iconic designs into of the character, but in [my] inner
the film. self," says Tautou. "In the last part
[of the film], I was completely her."
The blue-striped mariner's
sweater Tautou wears in one scene Fontaine and Tautou both
didn't actually come into being acknowledge the biggest challenge
until the 1930s, and the quilted of making "Coco Before Chanel"
sewing pouch, which in the film, was doing justice to one of the most
prompts the idea for Chanel's well-known and influential women
world-famous bag was not the true of the 20th Century.
inspiration.
"The most difficult thing when
Fontaine also includes the death you speak about somebody who's
of Chanel's great love, the British so known, so legendary, is to be
industrialist Boy Capel (played by true to her," said Fontaine.
Alessandro Nivola), which took
place in the years after those shown
in the film, because of the huge
impact his death had on the design-
er.
"It was the most important love
of her whole life," the 49 year-old
Luxembourg-born director told
CNN. "When he's dead, when he
disappears, something breaks and
she only has the work."

It is one of two films about the That Chanel never married has
iconic couturier's early life this been attributed to her heartbreak
year. The other, "Coco Chanel & over Capel's tragic death in a car
Igor Stravinsky," a lavish, part-fact, accident. Indeed, Coco herself once
part-fiction portrayal of Chanel's said, "I lost everything with the loss
brief affair with the avant garde of Capel."
composer directed by Dutch-born
Jan Kounen was the closing night Tautou's portrayal of Chanel's
film at this year's Cannes Film broken heart in the scenes around
Festival. Capel's death may be her finest. It
is almost as if the actress becomes
Fontaine also had to add an ele- the young Coco Chanel.
ment of fiction to her telling of

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 he most romantic and seduc- Tautou follows a long line of wear to bed?" Her answer: "Just a
T tive film of the year is not a stars who have represented No.5,
blockbuster or a period drama it's whether in poster campaigns or in
few drops of No.5."

the new, minute-long advert for the TV and cinema adverts. This special endorsement for-
most famous perfume in the world, ever linked Marilyn's sexy image
Chanel No.5. But then, it should hardly be with the sophisticated scent. In an
surprising that Chanel No.5 has so entirely unofficial and unplanned
Iconic Perfume Stays on Top many big names on its roster, as its way, she became the first iconic
With French Actress Audrey history stretches back to 1921, face of the fragrance so much so,
Tautou Thelatest Star to when it was the very first perfume that she popped up in a No.5 advert
Promote created by Coco Chanel, the most filmed in theearly Nineties.
the Brand talked-about designer in Paris.
No.5 has been officially adver-
And it stars the latest face of Initially produced just for tised with a series of very different
No.5 Audrey Tautou, the doe- eyed Coco's own use and for her to give women. Among them were the
actress who beguiled audiences as a present to her best customers, sporty-looking young American
when she played the lead role in the No.5 was soon in such demand that actress Ali McGraw - the star of the
award-winning 2001 film Amelie. the company Parfums Chanel had classic weepie Love Story - and
to be set up to produce and sell the original supermodels Suzy Parker,
Set on an elegant, oldfashioned perfume. Jean Shrimpton, LaurenHutton and
night train to Istanbul, the film is Cheryl Tiegs.
exquisite, Tautou and her male lead No.5 was popular from the out-
are both gorgeous, and they're set but it received an unexpected In the Seventies, Chanel began
bathed in amber light thanks to the publicity boost in 1954 when to hire actresses to front ever more
director, JeanPierre Jeunet, who Marilyn Monroe, who had just hit impressive ad campaigns.
has directed the actress twice the big time with the film How To
before. Marry A Millionaire, innocently The cool blonde beauty
mentioned that No.5 was her Catherine Deneuve, one of the
It's every inch a minimaster- favourite fragrance. biggest names in French cinema,
piece, and a fitting way to intro- appeared in a series of simple ads in
duce Tautou, 32, as the new muse In an interview with a reporter, which she spoke straight to the
for Chanel. Monroe was asked: "What do you camera, while caressing a super-

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sized bottle of No.5. "You don't youngest-ever face of No.5 in 1999. Chanel No.5 was Gabrielle "Coco"
have to ask for it," she purredsug- Her two ad films were directed by Chanel herself she even appeared in
gestively in one ad. "He knows hot French director Luc Besson and the print ads for the perfume in the
what you want: Chanel." were pure fantasy: she plays a Little late 1930s.
Red Riding Hood character
In another, she said: "Chanel. whoswipes a bottle of No.5 from a The great lady remained loyal
vault while being pursued by guard to No.5 for the rest of her life,
It's one of the pleasures of dogs. When Nicole Kidman despite having other fragrances at
being a woman." Carole Bouquet, became the face of No.5 in 2004, her disposal. Every morning, when
the elegant brunette who was best- Chanel built anticipation about the she was leaving the suite at the Ritz
known internationally as having advertising campaign to fever pitch Hotel where she lived, her maid
been a Bond girl in ForYour Eyes since it had hired Kidman's Moulin would phone over to her headquar-
Only - and who recently played the Rouge director, Baz Luhrmann, to ters on the nearbyrue Cambon to
ex-wife of Carrie's Russian create the ad film. alert the staff to her imminent
boyfriend in the final episodes of arrival.
Sex and the City - took over as the The story of a star who runs
faceof No.5 in the late Eighties. away from her fame, and falls in There, a sales girl would scoosh
love while hiding out, it looked No.5 around the staircase, so that
Her TV and cinema ads were beautiful and had a wonderful Chanel would walk into a haze of
much more Hollywood.With the soundtrack (arranged by Glasgow's her signature perfume.
catchphrase "Share the fantasy", own Craig Armstrong), but it was
the Bouquet ads were all about let down by Kidman's irritating per- With Tautou as both the face of
wealth and tapped into the greed sonality and a dodgyscript. No. 5 and the star of Coco Avant
and excesses of the era. Chanel, it seems as if the history of
Like the KidmanLuhrmann the perfume's ad campaigns has
In one particularl ad, an orches- film, the new one is directed by its come full circle...
tra rises from the sea to play for the star's regular collaborator,
No.5-wearing woman and, in JeanPierre Jeunet, who worked To see the Chanel No.5 advert
another, she strode through the with Tautou in both Amelie, the and for behind-the-scenes footage,
desert wearing her shoulder-padded film which made her a star, and the go to the chanel web site. Chanel
Chanel tweed suit. haunting romance AVery Long No.5 eau de parfum costs from
Engagement. pounds 39, and eau de toilette costs
Bouquet's ads were directed by from pounds 43.
Ridley Scott, the director of such It's fitting that Tautou is the
Hollywood blockbusters as Alien new face of No.5 - and especially
and Blade Runner. Subsequent that it's happening this year because
Chanel No.5 ads have also been she will also be seen all over the
directed by leading filmmakers and world playing Coco Chanel herself
had more of a cinematic feel. in the movie Coco Avant Chanel,
which comes to Britain at the end
Twenty-year-old Canadian of July.
swimming sensation and model
EstellaWarren became the And, really, the truest face of

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 CHANEL, BORN
M ADEMOISELLE
GABRIELLE, but indelibly
nicknamed Coco, strode across the
fashion stage of the 20th century as
no other, a veritable colossus of
invention and reinvention.
This year she is striding across
the screen in two new films: In
Coco Before Chanel, to be released
in the US in the fall, Audrey
Tautou, the gamine French actress
and new image of Chanel No 5,
recreates the designer’s early
career.
Premiered at the Cannes Film
Festival last month, Coco Chanel
and Igor Stravinsky, with Anna
Mouglalis and Mads Mikkelsen,
supposes a love affair between the
couturière and the famed compos-
er.
The Chanel couture revolution
elegant, fluid clothes that liberated
the feminine form lives on into the
21st century, updated, sometimes
brilliantly, by designer Karl
Lagerfeld. The more private
Chanel lifestyle played a back-
ground role, traced mainly through
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famous photos of the designer at She transformed the interiors of
home. the 18th-century building into Art
Deco style. The porte-cochère dis-
But a visit to the elegant private appeared, boiseries were removed
apartment she established on the or hidden behind walls of mirrors.
Rue Cambon in the 1930s reveals
that here among the dazzling “She created a very modernist
Coromandel screens are the senti- decor, shocking at the time,” says
mental keys to what counted most Clermont-Tonnerre. On the ground
for this extraordinary woman the floor, French interior designer Jean-
men she loved, the artists she Michel Frank decorated the couture
revered, the friends who influenced accessories boutique the first of its
her taste. kind selling handbags, shoes,
gloves, hats, scarves and costume
How Chanel, whose couture jewelry. The staircase, embellished
proclaimed her devotion to sophis- with a new wrought iron railing, led
ticated minimalism, accumulated to the mirrored couture salon, a true
this decorative splendor is much of galerie des glaces on the floor
a mystery, says Chanel external above. The next floor up became
relations director Marie-Louise de the private apartment where one
Clermont-Tonnerre. wall was covered with “a ravishing
burlap fabric she had painted in
The couturière bought the gilded lead to give an effect like her
building at 31 rue Cambon in 1920, flecked tweeds,” Clermont-
moving up the street from her orig- Tonnerre explains. “It was the most
inal Chanel Modes shop at no. 21. expensive thing to restore in 1983
By then she was rich and famous; when Karl Lagerfeld took over the
her debt to her lover and business couture.” Above is Mademoiselle’s
partner Arthur “Boy” Capel had studio, where Lagerfeld designs
been repaid as her fashion business today. The top three floors housed
flourished during the First World the workrooms of more than 100
War. “petites mains” (seamstresses), also
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still in place.
But, still recovering from
Capel’s death in a car crash in 1919,
the designer didn’t move in quite
yet. Instead, she took a suburban
villa, Bel Respiro, just outside Paris
in Garches, which author and
Chanel confidante Edmonde
Charles-Roux describes in her
book, L’Irrégulière, ou Mon
Itinéraire Chanel. “She had her
villa stuccoed in beige and its shut-
ters lacquered in black two hues
that made the entire neighborhood
frown.” But two very Chanel hues
that remained lifetime favorites.
Then she surprised the neigh-
bors even more by filling the villa
with her artistic friends Jean
Cocteau, Igor Stravinsky, poet
Pierre Reverdy, painter Juan Gris.
From the moment she made money,
Chanel befriended, and often
financed, a coterie of artists. After
the Russian Revolution, when the
impoverished Stravinsky fled to
Paris, Chanel lent Bel Respiro to
the composer, his wife and four
children, and they stayed for three
years. After she met Serge
Diaghilev in Venice, she gave him a
check “beyond his wildest dreams”
for the Ballets Russes production of
Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring in
1920, and she swore him to secrecy
in an encounter that, as Charles-
Roux reports, was only revealed 50
years later.
Meanwhile, she decided to
move back to town, into the ground
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and soaring first floors of a fabu- Place Vendôme, where she lived
lous townhouse built in 1719 for first with, and then without, her
the Rohan-Montbazon family at 29 then lover, the Duke of
rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. As Westminster. When she moved to a
Charles-Roux recounts, “Gabrielle simple bedroom suite in the
instinctively gravitated toward… Cambon wing, she installed her
the baroque taste of the Serts (her collections across the street in this
best woman friend, Misia, the beau- apartment. “We know she was here
tiful muse of an haute artistic by 1937,” says Clermont-Tonnerre,
milieu, and her talented decora- showing the photo of the designer
tor/painter husband, José Maria). in little black dress and pearls
She was initiated by them, and dis- perusing a rare Indian book on her
covered through them the main renowned sofa of tan suede with its
components of a decor she patient- quilted cushions. This contempo-
ly made her own.” Her scheme pos- rary element is set into the baroque
sessed “as much gold as at Misia’s, fantasy of gilded mirrors, a crystal
just as much crystal, but more black and rose quartz chandelier, a grace-
accents…” ful pair of 19th-century Japanese
bronze deer and the omnipresent
Filling these high-ceilinged Coromandel screens in a very mod-
rooms whose gilded panels she ern mix.
wished to camouflage, Chanel
began what became her celebrated When she discovered
collection of lacquered Chinese Coromandel screens, she claimed
Coromandel screens. They sur- they made her “faint with happi-
rounded the piano, itself the magnet ness”, and she put them every-
for friends from Diaghilev and his where, but often treated them like
Ballets Russes to Picasso who often wallpaper. In the petit salon, she cut
stayed here. When she thumbed her two doors leading into a bathroom
nose at the Great Depression in into one of the most beautiful
November 1932 with an exhibition screens of her collection, inset with
of real diamond jewelry displayed motifs of fans.
here (the ticket receipts were donat-
ed to charity), the New Yorker “She entertained a lot here, but
described the scene, “among the only a few guests at a time, four or
Coromandel screens and rose- six at the most,” says Clermont-
quartz chandeliers which have Tonnerre of the dining room.
made Chanel’s home famous, if not Venetian mirrors, like the black-
for its simplicity”. amoors in the entrée, perhaps recall
her trip to that city with the Serts to
Living in nomadic luxury, she lift the gloom after Boy died.
took some of this decor to the Ritz, Fantastical consoles supported by
to a grand suite overlooking the caryatids representing goddesses or
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the seasons were bought at the auc-
tion of the possessions of another
famous muse, Marchesa Luisa
Casati, in 1932.
Rather than clients, she invited
friends: Cocteau, the Serts,
Salvador and Gala Dalí, Luchino
Visconti who brought Romy
Schneider, Cristobal Balenciaga,
Hubert de Givenchy, Marlene
Dietrich, Jeanne Moreau and
Marie-Hélène de Rothschild among
others. And although she
adored artists, she never collected
their works. “Paintings?
Drawings?” queried Charles-Roux,
“…no signed objects, not one por-
trait and not a single painting by a
master.”
The only exceptions are a
minute oil painting of a spear of
wheat by Dalí and a pair of
andirons she commissioned from
sculptor Jacques Lipchitz in 1921
to go with a Louis XV rocaille fire-
place. Lipchitz abandoned his
Cubist lines to sculpt a sinuous
shell form of a woman lying on a
sofa. Both works still decorate the
apartment today.
But collect Chanel did.
“Objects, yes. A perfect jungle of
them. As mysterious as possible,
objects seen nowhere else,” the
author writes. In the apartment,
they beckon from every surface and
they all have tales to tell, or perhaps
mysteries to conceal.
There are camels and frogs, but
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the lions in marble, wood or gilded
bronze that prowl tabletops or man-
tels are easy reads. Chanel, born
August 19, is a Leo, the lion her
astrological sign. Her long lost
love, Boy Capel, gave her the
Buddha; designer and illustrator
Paul Iribe, another fiancé swept off
by death he collapsed on the tennis
court of La Pausa, her home in the
south of France provided the
bronze and crystal chandelier in the
petit salon.
Many of the rare books that
once filled the bookcase belonged
to another suitor, Pierre Reverdy.
As for Hugh Grosvenor, the 2nd
Duke of Westminster, he was per-
haps the raison d’être for her col-
lection of objects with wheat motifs
“a symbol of fecundity because she
wanted to have a child (and heir for
the duke),” suggests Clermont-
Tonnerre. Along with Dalí’s stalk, a
gueridon table by Chanel costume
jewelry designer Robert Goossens
boasts a wheat sheaf base and real
wheat and sculpted wheat stand by
the salon fireplace. A slim bronze
cast of a hand by Diego Giacometti
was a gift from writer Claude
Delay, whose hand it is. Delay, who
wrote Chanel Solitaire, published
the book about her friend only after
the designer’s death, as did
Charles-Roux. Another friend,
Louise de Vilmorin, simply aban-
doned her own attempt to tell the
story with even the barest trace of
verisimilitude in her Mémoires de
Coco. Once famous, Mademoiselle
Chanel simply reinvented her past
785
as determinedly as she had rein-
vented fashion.
Today, the apartment is used for
fashion soirées and the rare lunch,
as well as the backdrop for photo
shoots. It continues to inspire
Lagerfeld’s Chanel collections: the
Baroque dresses in 1987; the 2006
couture coats and tunics embroi-
dered with Coromandel motifs,
requiring from 800 to 950 hours of
Lesage embroidery. Another
beloved trinket, the tiny gilded and
jeweled birdcage enclosing two
lovebirds, became the inspiration
for Jean-Paul Goude’s 1992 adver-
tising film introducing Vanessa
Paradis as the new muse for the
perfume Coco.
If these possessions changed in
value and significance, “one
remained very, very important,”
says Clermont-Tonnerre, “the
Russian icon Stravinsky gave her to
thank her when he and his family
left Bel Respiro in 1925.” As pho-
tos prove, “she always kept it close
to her.” In photos of the Ritz suite,
it sits on the mantelpiece; here it is
placed above her 18th-century
desk. And when she died, as
Charles-Roux wrote, it was on her
bedside table. Perhaps the love
affair isn’t supposition after all.
When a woman today pulls on a and earned the hatred of many for was almost a rebel.
pair of trousers or wears a suit jack- her links to the occupying Nazis
et, she can thank Coco Chanel that during World War II. "She was a feminist ahead of her
she's not trussed up in a corset. time and that's why in fashion, she
Coco Before Chanel (Coco Avant freed women through her talent. "
Mademoiselle Chanel was the fash- Chanel), which explores the cou-
ion goddess who helped to deliver turier's early life and the men who Chanel was one of the key influ-
women from the evil of restrictive influenced it, is out this month, ences of the flapper movement,
clothes and she is as relevant today starring Audrey Tautou. when women emerging from the
as she ever was. restraints of World War I had a taste
Tautou (of Amelie fame) is the for liberation.
She famously declared: "I gave image of Chanel, from her tiny
women a sense of freedom; I gave frame to the arch of her eyebrows, They had the vote and they wanted
them back their bodies: bodies that the black button eyes and the steel to not only drink, smoke, and have
were drenched in sweat due to fash- that clearly lies at her core. sex but also to dress for themselves
ion's finery, lace, corsets, under- rather than pander to the tastes of
clothes, padding." And she has grown to admire men.
Chanel, seeing her as a pioneer.
The exquisite pieces which carry Chanel said: "Fashion is not some-
the legendary double C logo adorn She said: "What makes her excep- thing that exists in dresses only.
the pampered bodies of the rich but tional is that she was a woman of
modern women, regardless of the moment. Fashion is in the sky, in the street,
wealth, share in Coco's legacy. fashion has to do with ideas, the
"She was a woman who was intelli- way we live, what is happening."
This year, two films and a book are gent, strong, courageous, but espe-
set to spark an explosion of interest cially a woman who wanted to be The biggest change she introduced
in the person who lay behind the free and independent. At the time was to was to make clothes more
icon. that was an idea no one knew could masculine and more comfortable.
Chanel was a woman who went exist.
from rags to riches and achieved She used male motifs such as sailor
international fame. But she was "She refused to let herself be closed outfits and mechanic's dungarees as
also condemned for anti-Semitism off by social conventions and she inspirations for her fashions.

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She said: "Luxury must be comfort- Albert went off to work, abandon- Tautou says: "If she married him,
able, otherwise it is not luxury." ing Gabrielle for the next seven she would have gone to England,
years in an orphanage - where nuns lived with him and had a whole
In Chanel's famous words, she "let taught her to sew. other different life.
go of the waistline" and came up
with a style that has endured. When she turned 18, she left the "She would have fallen prey to love
orphanage and took up work for a and given up her dream of inde-
It is believed she came up with the local tailor. pendence."
flapper look when she put on an
oversized man's sweater and tied It was while she was working there Instead, Coco persisted in her
the waist with a scarf. that Coco, who got her nickname dreams and blossomed from seam-
during a brief career as a cabaret stress to respected fashion designer.
After being seen in it in public, she singer, met and had an affair with
sold 10 of the outfits. playboy millionaire Étienne Her friends included Cocteau,
Balsan, who showered her with Picasso and Chaplin and she had a
The trademark of her fashions was luxuries. series of influential lovers.
simplicity but the woman herself
was complex. Balsan helped her enormously and The other film out this year focuses
he gave her the confidence to move on her relationship with the com-
Tautou said: "She was full of con- to Paris, where his former best poser Igor Stravinsky.
tradictions. friend Arthur Edward "Boy" Capel,
an English playboy and industrial- Starring Chanel model Anna
"And she told so many lies about ist stole her heart. Mouglalis as Coco, it tells how she
her past, huge, enormous lies, so took the composer and his sick wife
that you can only understand her Their affair lasted for nine years to live with her when they lost
life little by little." until the end of World War I and everything in the Russian
Capel helped finance her first shop. Revolution.
Chanel's first lie was about her
upbringing - claiming that her Although she was beautiful, talent- That much is fact but the Chanel
father had gone off to America to ed and graceful, Coco was not con- fashion house, who have endorsed
make his fortune and she was sidered marriage material for a man the film, admit there is no way of
brought up by a couple of spinster of his wealth and when he took an knowing the truth about whether
aunts. English aristocrat as his wife, it left they had a romance.
her crushed.
She once said: "I invented my life However, many of her affairs were
because I didn't like my life." She continued to be his mistress welldocumented, including one
after he married but was again dev- with a Nazi officer during World
She was born Gabrielle Bonheur astated when he died in 1919. War II, which was to tarnish her
Chanel on August 19 1883 to trav- reputation for many years to come.
elling salesman Albert Chanel and If Capel had married her, the face She always said that she sobbed
Jeanne Devolle, who died of TB of fashion could have been very when the German occupied France
when her daughter was very young. different. but like many others, Chanel sim-
ply wanted to survive the war.

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She shut down her fashion business "She was operating in a world of the rain boots."
and began a love affair up with double-dealings, double-crossings,
Hans Gunther von Dincklage, a and double agents. Perhaps the This did not sit well with Chanel
German officer. smartest career move Chanel ever fashion designer, Karl Lagerfeld.
made was the launch of her own
The relationship protected her enor- perfume. He responded: "I didn't even know
mously and afforded her permis- we made rain boots. After that, I
sion to reside in her beloved Ritz "She came out with her first signa- don't have to be nice."
Hotel, where the Nazi elite them- ture fragrance, Chanel No. 5, in
selves stayed. 1921. He went on to say that he would
have suggested Spanish star
She fled France at the end of the The name was said to have been Penélope Cruz as a better actress
war after being arrested and chosen because it was her lucky for the film.
released, heading for Switzerland number - and because the scent was
before she could be subjected to the fifth sample she tried. And he also took a swipe at veteran
formal charges and public humilia- actress ShirleyMacLaine, who
tion. She was a superstitious woman and played an elderly Chanel in an
in her elegant apartment in Paris, American cable television special.
Women who had slept with Nazis the number five is worked into
were labelled collaborators, their everything from furniture to chan- He griped: "She should have lost
hair was shaved and they were daliers. 30lb.
ostracised.
Just before she was due home, her "Chanel was never fat, not even in
In 1954, when Chanel returned to servants would always spray the her eighties."
Paris, many still refused to forgive stairs to her apartment with the fra-
her. grance. The new films are sure to have
women everywhere trying yet again
But to the author Justine Picardie The perfume the first to have a to recreate the "Chanel look".
whose bo Coco Chanel is out in the designer's name attached to it
autumn, none of this necessarily remains a classic and successive Lagerfeld has made the label more
made Chanel a Nazi. beauties have fronted its advertis- successful than ever and is respon-
ing campaigns, including Nicole sible for keeping it a must-have,
She said: "What is clear is that she Kidman and now Audrey Tautou. among the fashion-conscious, rich
wept on the day the Germans and famous.
invaded Paris, and immediately The latter has caused some contro-
closed her couture house. versy with the house of Chanel Wild child starlet Lindsay Lohan is
itself by not being quite as gushing said to be obsessed with the label
"Thereafter, like other friends and about the label they might have and is forever being photographed
contemporaries, she found ways of liked. weighed down with big black
accommodating the occupation, Chanel carrier bags.
proving, as she did throughout her When the actress was asked if she
life, to be a great survivor. wears a lot of Chanel, she replied: At one point she even suggested
"Sometimes. This morning, I wore she was going to be a new model

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for the house until Lagerfeld And regardless of controversy,
laughed off the idea, saying "silly Coco Chanel was most certainly
girls" could never represent Chanel, someone.
only sophisticated women such as
Nicole Kidman.

Chanel herself said that " a fashion

that does not reach the streets is not
a fashion" and her influence is all
over the high street even 38 years
after her death.

From the "little black dress" to nau-

tical wear, padded bags and pearls,
the clothes and accessories she
championed are elegant and beauti-
ful but above all, they are timeless.

She was the only fashion designer

to be named in TIME Magazine's
100 most influential people of the
20th century.

Until her death in 1971 at the age of

87, Chanel remained unmarried and
single-minded and influential.

And to the most part, France

remained proud of its daughter. In
December, the Paris Mint struck
Coco Chanel limited edition gold
and silver coins to honour the 125th
anniversary of her birth.

The coins bear an image of Chanel,

chosen by Lagerfeld, wearing one
of her famous hats and her leg-
endary pearls.

Chanel once said: "How many

cares one loses when one decides
not to be something but to be some-
one."

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 CHANEL
C OCO IS SURELY ONE OF
THE MOST INFLUENTIAL and
innovative fashion designers of all
time. She has left an non-erasable
mark with her famous little black
dress and Chanel No5 fragrance,
while the classic style she promot-
ed, of simple and elegant design,
has influenced fashion of the 20th
century. Christian Dior said she
revolutionarised fashion with a
black sweater and white pearls.
Read the pearls of wisdom
from the first lady of style
Coco Chanel, whose revolu-
tionary ideas have forever
altered the face of fashion.
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel got
her nickname Coco, meaning dear
or lovely, during her brief enter-
taining career at the start of the
1900s in a little provincial town at
the La Rotonda cabaret, where she
performed “Qui qu'a vu Coco dans
le Trocadero”.-.-Vogue-.-
Circa 1910, Coco started mak-
ing and selling hats. Motivated
with her success, she soon started
designing clothes, which breathed
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comfort and simplicity. Chanel was wardrobe: jersey skirts and dresses,
a respectable fashion home by
1929, hiring 300 employees. The
a scarf, a blouse, pleated skirts, cot-
ton cardigans, pullovers with high
first perfume launched on the mar- collars, wool suits, sports jackets or
ket by a designer was her Chanel blazer-coats, a little black dress,
No5 fragrance. strapless dresses, raincoats…
How riding trousers were creat- Everyone has heard of the rid-
ed due to gender equality ing trousers anecdote. Coco was a
passionate horseback rider and
Chanel managed to liberate since women wore dresses at that
women of uncomfortable corsets, time, they would sit on the side
presenting everyday, practical with their legs together. This is why
clothes which women did not wear Coco has designed riding trousers
as shackles. She drew inspiration for women, so that they could ride
from the materials from the clean in a normal position. Coco always
lines of men`s fashion. She was the thought women and men were
first designer to introduce black equal, which made her think of all
and her little black dress (which the revolutionary ideas no woman
could be worn in daytime, as well dared doing before.
as night-time, depending on fash-
ion accessories) became a trade- We bring you Coco Chanel`s most
mark and an enduring fashion stan- famous quotes:
dard.
1. In order to be irreplaceable one
The Chanel look has survived must always be different.
all changes and fashion impera-
tives. Becoming an uncompromis- 2. Fashion is not something that
ing visionary, she “invented” exists in dresses only. Fashion is in
women`s fashion of the twentieth the sky, in the street, fashion has to
century. Her innovations were the do with ideas, the way we live,
basic elements of a woman`s what is happening.
790
 Coco had a nose for business; must be comfortable, otherwise it is
she took it very seriously. The not luxury.
designer would tear up the seams at
the last minute before a fashion 10. A woman who doesn`t wear
show and sow on the parts she perfume has no future.
removed. She would also lie on the
floor of her studio to make sure
every rim was perfect and sowed
according to her strict specifica-
tions.

3. Nature gives you the face you

have at twenty. Life shapes the face
you have at thirty. But at fifty, you
get the face you deserve.

4. Fashion fades, only style remains

the same

5. “Where should one use per-

fume?”, a young woman asked.
“Wherever one wants to be kissed”,
I said.

6. Dress shabbily, they notice the

dress. Dress impeccably, they
notice the woman."

7. I don`t understand how a woman

can leave the house without fixing
herself up a little if only out of
politeness. And then, you never
know, maybe that`s the day she has
a date with destiny. And it`s best to
be as pretty as possible for destiny.

8. If a man talks bad about all

women, it usually means he was
burned by one woman.

9. Some people think luxury is the

opposite of poverty. It is not. It is
the opposite of vulgarity. Luxury

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 Designed decades ago, the ing.
S HE HAS BEEN DESCRIBED AS THE
WOMAN WHO INVENTED MODERN
FASHION.
sell-out classics continue to
French style icon spawn millions of High Street Inspired by her memories of
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel is still the copies. the nuns who had raised her, and
golden girl of the world of couture by servants' uniforms, she decided
more than 35 years after her death Yet the woman behind the to make black more chic by
aged 87. style empire could not have had a adding white at the neck and the
less glamorous start in life. cuffs.
Now a new film, Coco Before
Chanel starring Amelie actress Born in Saumur, western Designs for life... Audrey
Audrey Tautou and out next week - France, in 1883, Gabrielle was the Tautou as Coco in new film
delves into her humble beginnings second illegitimate daughter of
before she created her iconic brand. peasant couple Albert Chanel and `A rebel by nature, she
Jeanne Devolle. delighted in the idea of the rich
The Chanel logo, two over- and fashionable dressing in styles
lapped mirrored Cs, instantly con- Jeanne died when Coco was similar to their staff.
jures up images of style, sophisti- 12 and Albert, a travelling sales-
cation and elegance. man, abandoned her along with In 1926, the year she intro-
her two sisters and three brothers. duced the world to the little black
A-listers including Kylie dress, she said: "Women think
Minogue, Penelope Cruz and Gabrielle was sent to an about all colours except for the
Nicole Kidman are huge fans. orphanage run by strict nuns. She absence of colour.
hated her years there yet they
Lily Allen and Nicola Roberts were to inspire her signature "I have already said that black
love Chanel's quilted handbags, monochrome look. has it all. White too. Their beauty
Kate Moss and Victoria Beckham is absolute."
are wild for the signature trimmed When she started out as a
tweed jackets, and Kelly designer, almost every family in She had picked up the nick-
Osbourne and Alexa Chung put France and Britain was mourning name Coco while singing in local
their best feet forward in the the loss of a loved one in the First nightclubs aged 18, where her
label's quilted two-tone ballet World War. Most women lived in favourite song was about a miss-
pumps. black, which Gabrielle found bor- ing dog called Who's Seen Coco

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In The Trocadero? asked what she wore to bed barbed wit inspired in most
replied: "Why, Chanel No5, of women. Coco was not just a fash-
It would stay with her forever, course." ion trailblazer, but a tough busi-
even becoming the name of one of nesswoman. She believed her job
her fashion house's bestselling Such a provocative answer above everything was simply to
perfumes. must have delighted Coco, who sell clothes.
was constantly pushing bound-
It was through her singing that aries. And, unlike most other
Coco met millionaire socialite and designers, she was happy when
heir Etienne Balsan, who lifted She was one of the first she saw cheap copies of her
her into the world of the upper designers to adapt typically mas- clothes on the streets of Paris.
classes to which she so desperate- culine clothing for women's fash-
ly wanted to belong. ion, using elements from each of She once said: "I do not like
her lovers' wardrobes. when people speak of the Chanel
Wearing her own distinctive fashion. Chanel is, above all, a
styles, Coco stood out from the From Boy Capel she drew style. Fashion passes, style
other ladies in Balsan's group and inspiration for ladies' trousers, remains."
caught the eye of the man who pyjamas, straw boater hats and
was to become the love of her life, jackets. Coco dedicated her life to the
wealthy English polo player pursuit of style before retiring in
Arthur "Boy" Capel. A romance with Russian 1939 as war broke out across
Grand Duke Dmitra Pavlovich Europe.
He financed her first boutique ignited her passion for Russian-
in Paris's Rue de Cambon in 1910. style blouses, embroidery and fur- Yet she never lost her love for
lined coats. clothes and, 15 years later in
As business boomed she 1954, aged 71, she returned with a
opened three more shops in quick And a love affair with the sec- fashion show that catapulted her
succession, in the chic coastal ond Duke of Westminster, Hugh back into the spotlight.
resorts of Deauville, Biarritz and Grosvenor, led to the famous
Cannes. tweed jackets, sailing jumpers, She went on to design the
gold buttons and white cuffs. trimmed tweed suit, 2.55 handbag
Her success was meteoric and in quilted leather, the camellia
she soon paid back Boy every Most are still statement pieces emblem and the two-tone shoes.
penny he had lent her. The of the Chanel house, now led by
American fashion press was crazy design director Karl Lagerfeld. In 1971 Coco Chanel died at
about Coco's daringly simple style Despite her busy love life, Paris's Ritz hotel, where she had
and she became a hit on both sides rumours that Coco was gay were lived for more than three decades.
of the Atlantic. fuelled by her refusal to comment
on her affairs with a string of The little girl abandoned by
Her first perfume Chanel No5, high-profile men. her family left behind a legacy
launched in 1921, became the sig- that continues to inspire the fash-
nature of Fifties Hollywood siren Such claims seem even more ion world. Yet she remained
Marilyn Monroe, who, when unlikely given the terror that her unsurprised by her phenomenal

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rise to the top.

As Coco once said: "If you're

born without wings, do everything
you can to grow some."

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 HERE IS A WONDERFULLY SUB-
T TLE (if historically inaccurate)
scene in the new biopic Coco
Before Chanel in which the 20-
something, not-yet-a-fashion-
doyenne is asked by her lover
"Boy" Capel to attend a summer
ball with him in Deauville.
Chanel agrees, but zut alors!
she has the same problem that has
afflicted every woman since Eve:
she has nothing to wear. The couple
heads to the local atelier, where
Chanel picks out black fabric and
demands there be no corset. "But it
will be shapeless," the woman tells
her dismissively. "Do as I say,"
Chanel abruptly answers back. Of
course, at the ball all eyes are on
the petite woman (played exquis-
itely by Audrey Tautou) dancing
the night away in voilà! a Little
Black Dress. Never mind that
Chanel really created the LBD
when she was closer to 40, and
long after Capel had been killed in
a car accident. Almost a century
after its real birthday in 1925, the
Little Black Dress is still the stan-
dard cocktail-party uniform for
women the world over.
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You might say that Chanel's life
was tailor-made for a movie,
except that would be underselling
her. Coco Before Chanel is actually
the third Chanel biopic in the past
year. Coco Chanel & Igor
Stravinsky, starring Anna
Mouglalis as the young Coco,
closed the Cannes festival in May.
In Lifetime's Coco Chanel,Shirley
MacLaine played the older Chanel
with so much scene-chewing gusto
that she somehow completely swal-
lowed her French accent.
Fortunately, there's plenty in
Chanel's biography to go around.
The illegitimate daughter of a
nomadic peddler, raised in an
orphanage from the age of 12,
Chanel went on to become a multi-
millionaire. She was the first
woman to start a cosmetics line and
the first to have a perfume named
after her she always said that No. 5
was lucky (and she was apparently
right). "She led this Cinderella life
that appeals to a narrative in all of Quantcast
us," says Chris Greenhalgh, the
author of Coco and Igor, which was
the basis for the film at Cannes.
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Making millions not to mention
all but banishing the corset forever
would provide plenty of material to
fill a good movie or three, but Coco
was even bigger than that. She
arguably did more to revolutionize
the look (and the smell) of the mod-
ern woman than anyone this side of
Amelia Bloomer. "Before Chanel,"
says Marie Louise de Clermont
Tonnerre, Chanel's head of interna-
tional public relations, "women
who wore red lipstick, had suntans,
and wore fake jewels were peasants
or whores." If France had an all-
female Mount Rushmore, Chanel
would almost certainly be on it. "If
you were to say who are the four
French iconic historical figures, I
would say Piaf, Marie Antoinette,
Joan of Arc, and Coco Chanel,"
says Greenhalgh. "The films of the
other three have been successful,
interesting cinema experiences, so I
think Chanel was the next obvious
one."
Except in the case of Chanel,
something seems to have been lost
in translation. For all her accom-
plishments as a businesswoman
and a feminist, these movies focus
almost exclusively on her rise from
the French gutter to the glittery
heights of fashion. Onscreen, Coco
is forever young; even MacLaine's
mature version got considerably
less screen time than Barbora
Bobulova, who played the young
Chanel. That's understandable;
Chanel's person-al story is pretty
irresistible. Gabrielle Chanel (she
made a living early on as a café
singer; the songs "Ko Ko Ri Ko"
and "Qui qu'a vu Coco" were two
of her signatures) was her own
greatest creation. She was friends
with Picasso and Cocteau (and
frenemies with Colette). Her lovers
included Nazi officer Hans Gunther
von Dincklage, Stravinsky
(allegedly), and the Second Duke
of Westminster her use of tweed,
unheard of in ladies' fashion at the
time, was inspired by fishing trips
she took to Scotland with the duke.
"From a mysterious background,
glamorous lovers from an English
duke to a Russian count, and above
all an enduring symbol of feminist
fashion," says Suzy Menkes, fash-
ion editor at The International
Herald Tribune, "she pulled herself
up by her own shoe straps to found
a fashion house that gave women
liberty from corsets and female
frou."
Lively, fascinating but hardly
the woman in full. Is it PC to point
out that recent movies made about
equally successful, creative men
(Ray Charles, Jackson Pollock)
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didn't let their love lives overshad- script: "Merde." Of course Hepburn
ow the focus on their successes? said it in English, but you get the
"Do any of these movies really cap- idea. The Coco Chanel story didn't
ture Gabrielle Chanel as a creative always have to be perfumed.
force?" complains Menkes. "It's all
about hats, lovers, and jewels and
pretty pictures, while the tough and
resilient spirit never really comes
across." You can feel that discon-
nect most strongly in a scene at the
end of Coco Before Chanel (which
is debuting now in Europe and next
month in the United States). Chanel
has made it to the top, and she is sit-
ting none too subtly atop the spiral
staircase of her atelier, running a
fashion show. Her frothy, elegant
demeanor has been replaced by a
cold and remote woman watching
the models parade in front of her
like a general examining her troops.
The message seems to be that
the successful, powerful Chanel
was off-putting and officious,
rather than the interesting, complex
woman she really was. "If you
know Chanel only through these
films," says Clermont-Tonnerre,
"you do not know anything about
her." Tautou is perfectly lovely in
the role, but, like all the other
Chanels, she plays her like Audrey
Hepburn, when the actual woman
was cut more from Katharine
Hepburn's cloth. In fact, Katharine
Hepburn played Chanel in 1969, in
her only Broadway musical. The
highlight of the show often came at
the top of Act II, when Chanel plots
a comeback. As the curtain went
up, Hepburn's first word was one
that she herself inserted into the
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N O OTHER SINGLE NAME IS AS
SYN-ONYMOUS with style as
that of Chanel. Not only did
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel revolu-
tionise the way women dress, but
she also created both a bag (the
quilted 2.55) and a perfume (No 5)
which have become iconic.
The distinctive looks the little
black dress, the tweed skirt suit and
the pearls that she honed over sev-
eral decades are as popular now as
they were in her heyday. To women
the world over, the interlocked Cs
of the Chanel logo is a symbol of
quality based on a true fashion
Icon.
Given her long, colourful life
and enduring, worldwide influence,
it isn't a surprise that Coco Chanel,
who died in July 1971, should be
the subject of a veritable raft of
projects though why they should be
happening simultaneously is per-
haps more difficult to fathom.
A new biography, by esteemed
style writer Justine Picardie, is due
out in the autumn; a TV mini-series
starring Shirley MacLaine aired in
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the United States late last year, and is reported to have failed.)
not one, but two French movies
have recently been made: Coco and So, we have Coco and Igor,
Igor, which closed the Cannes Film which focuses on one of her many
Festival last month, and Coco romantic relationships: the affair
Avant Chanel, which opens here on with composer Igor Stravinsky,
Friday. By further coincidence, which took place in the 1920s. And
each film has a "face" of Chanel as we have Coco Avant Chanel which,
its star: Anna Mouglalis (who rep- despite a coda that shows Chanel as
resents Allure Sensuelle) and the queen bee of the fashion scene,
Audrey Tautou (No 5) respectively. ends just as the couturiere is on the
There are even rumours about fur- brink of her breakthrough in Paris,
ther biographical films, including a in the early 1920s. Given that Coco
Hollywood one with Demi Moore's Chanel was born in 1883, it covers
name attached to it. less than half of her 87 years. But
this was undoubtedly the period
But it's not just Coco Chanel's that shaped the woman Chanel
longevity and influence or those of became.
her brand that explain the prolifer-
ation of portraits of her; it's also the The arrestingly beautiful
fact that she had so many very dif- Audrey Tautou, the star of Amelie
ferent chapters in her story: her and also, by sheer coincidence, of
years at the epicentre of Parisian the brand-new advertising cam-
culture and society, the Occupation paign for Chanel No 5, agrees that
when she took a Nazi as her lover, the elderly Chanel who impressed
her post-war exile in Switzerland, interviewers with her straight-talk-
her eventual comeback after some- ing, no-nonsense manner and
how escaping charges for collabo- unsentimental airs was the product
ration. One, definitive, biopic of the period covered by Coco
would be hard-pushed to do justice Avant Chanel. "Life hardened her
to her richly textured, densely peo- she toughened up," Tautou says.
pled life. (The mini-series tried but This, after all, was when Chanel
797
had to deal with the realisation that
her background, first of all as an
illegitimate child raised in an
orphanage and then as a lowly
seamstress and cabaret singer,
would prevent her from being com-
pletely accepted by high society.
Aristocrats could fall in love
with her and welcome her into their
homes, but they would only ever
have her as a mistress or lover;
never as a wife. Even Arthur "Boy"
Capel, the young Englishman, who
as Coco Avant Chanel suggests was
the love of her life, chose to marry
someone from his own background
rather than Chanel, the girl he real-
ly loved. His sudden death, in 1919,
was as Edmonde Charles-Roux, the
author of the book on which Coco
Avant Chanel was loosely based,
points out the second time she had
mourned him, since she was
already grieving for the future she
had hoped they would have as a
married couple.
Of course, Chanel's personality
and much of her private life during
her formative years can only be
hypothesised since she never wrote
her memoirs, and the writer who
was to be her official biographer
gave up in frustration because she
wouldn't admit even the most read-
ily verified facts, such as her time
in the orphanage.
And yet it's not as if she had
begun to believe her own story, as
can happen when people tell the
same lies over and over: she freely
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confessed to making up her past. "I With her bobbed, and slightly
invented my life because I didn't wavy dark hair, light skin, defined
like my life," was one of her many cheekbones and tiny frame, Tautou
memorable quotes. is very convincing as the young
Chanel and even in the later scenes,
The gamine Tautou, who was where, playing older than her own
intrigued by what lay behind the age (she's 32), she fixes hems with
"facade" of the tough old bird that a Gitane tentatively dangling from
Chanel, in her later years, seemed the edge of her lips and has her
to be, says: "By focusing on her dainty fingers adorned with heavy
early years, we could show some- gold rings, she couldn't be playing
thing of her vulnerability, because anyone else. There's a steely core to
she always said that one constant Chanel the writer Colette described
through her life was loneliness." her as a "little black bull" that her
potentially sparrow-like figure
The problem with the film would have belied, had she not
showing only the early chapters of decked herself out in the armour of
Chanel's life is that, although it such traditionally masculine accou-
introduces us to a quietly deter- trements as trousers, tweeds and
mined, slightly introverted yet sailor's hats.
eccentric and forward-thinking
young woman, it doesn't point out Nevertheless, Tautou insists: "I
the extremely interesting and didn't try to mimic her, but I did try
important fact that Chanel was so to get close to her in some ways."
desperate to be accepted that she One way was to study television
erased her past, or that she was a interviews with her and to read
fickle character who moved with whatever she could, and another
the "in" crowd: so much so that was to spend time surrounded by
when the Germans moved in and souvenirs of her subject's life.
occupied Paris, she took up with
them. Many of the clues to the kind of
woman Coco Chanel was lie in the
Tautou, who in another coinci- apartment that was her base for
dence, hails from the same part of more than three decades. It's not
rural France as her subject the often you get the chance to walk in
Auvergne believes that what she the footsteps of an icon, to sit
has in common with Chanel are "a where she sat and to soak up the
strong spirit, intelligence and atmosphere of the place where she
pride". But there's also an uncanny created history, but occasionally the
physical resemblance that director Chanel company will grant visits to
Anne Fontaine believed was an the flat on rue Cambon, an unpre-
essential requirement when she was possessing street easily missed
casting. among the maze of narrow roads
798
that run between the Madeleine and it was possible to invent a past for said to myself that it was very
the Place Vendome. There is no oneself without having to worry too strange."
better way to try to understand the much about snoopers discovering
multi-faceted, contradictory per- the truth, and she took full advan- In the apartment there aren't so
sonality of Coco Chanel than to see tage of that fact. Although her sto- many 5-related items but Chanel's
how she lived. ries about coming from a well-to- zealous superstition, no doubt the
do, old family were known to be result of such an unsettled early
What's particularly striking fictitious long before she died, she life, is represented in just about
about the apartment from which she clung to them defiantly: on the every corner. On one wall there's a
ruled the fashion world from 1935 mantlepiece in her dining room, small painting (the single most
until 1971 is that it is in total stylis- there's a marble bust of a rather valuable item in the property it's by
tic contrast with the streamlined, stern and unattractive-looking man. Salvador Dali) of wheat, which, in
signature Chanel look. Whereas the She claimed he was an ancestor; we France is a symbol of luck and of
"public" areas of 31 rue Cambon now know he wasn't, and that she fertility as well as being the slang
the glistening ground floor bou- bought the bust in an antiques shop word for "money". It's a symbol
tique and the airy, and recently along with many of the opulent which along with lions, camels and
refurbished (by Karl Lagerfeld), pieces of furniture that she deer (invariably in pairs) crops up
first-floor fitting room/salon are undoubtedly tried to pass off as throughout the apartment, and the
full of clean lines, simple shapes heirlooms. Chanel historians believe it relates
and decorated in a typical Chanel to the fact that, like many self-made
palette of beige, black and white, Everywhere you turn in the people, Chanel was keenly aware
the upstairs apartment is home to apartment there are reminders of that she had come from nothing,
heavy antique furniture and intri- one of Coco Chanel's key personal- and had no family to bail her out if
cately patterned antique Chinese ity traits: her superstition. It's no she ran into difficulties.
screens. The plain mirrors down- coincidence that her most famous
stairs are nothing like the ornate gilt perfume was named after her lucky Other knick-knacks and orna-
mirrors that proliferate in the apart- number many of her creations, her ments in the apartment testify to
ment. constellation jewellery for example Chanel's reputation as someone
bear some reference to the number who, at one point, was rumoured to
And yet, so many staples of the five. (Or that when the company change lovers every three weeks.
Chanel repertoire originated here: released its sumptuous new adver- Among the mementoes of a colour-
the gold chain belts and bag straps, tising film for the fragrance earlier ful love life that spanned several
the baroque necklaces, brooches this summer, it was on 5 May.) decades (Chanel never married and
and cuffs; even the iconic 2.55 bag was a strikingly attractive, youth-
can be traced back to the interior Even Audrey Tautou has begun ful-looking woman well into her
design. It was inspired not, as Coco
thinking this way, saying: "The day fifties) are a Russian crucifix given
Avant Chanel suggests, by the little
it was announced that I was the new to her by Stravinsky and a hand-
wallet in which the young Coco face of Chanel No 5, which was some cigarette box offered by the
kept her sewing needles, but by the
also on 5 May, I was in New York. Duke of Westminster.
"wet sand"-coloured settee in herThe number of my hotel room was
living room. 555. Nobody had requested that Given Chanel's hectic love life,
room for me I just went into the you'd imagine that the boudoir
Chanel came from an era when room that I'd been allocated. And I must have many a tale to tell. But

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one of the biggest surprises about
the apartment is that there is no
bedroom: in the 1930s, and then
after her return to Paris following
her post-war exile in Switzerland,
she had a suite at the Ritz where she
slept and had her romantic trysts.
Each morning, she would nip out
the hotel's service entrance (where
Dodi and Princess Diana were
caught on that famous CCTV
footage) on the rue Cambon and
cross the road to number 31, where
a specially designated assistant
would have liberally sprayed No 5
around the staircase so that Chanel
would walk into a haze of her sig-
nature perfume.

As much as it reflects many

aspects of the complex personality
of Chanel, the apartment is also just
another facade behind which the
private, real Coco hid. And as long
as the air of mystery and mystique
lingers around the woman whom
Tautou sums up as "unusual and
exceptional", interest in her life,
and not just her legacy, will remain
strong.

Coco Avant Chanel opens on

Friday; Coco and Ivor is scheduled
for release later this year. Coco
Chanel by Justine Picardie will by
published by HarperCollins in
October.

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"She made up things.” That’s the There have been musicals, most businesswomen.
not entirely encouraging opener to incongruously a Broadway one
Axel Madson’s 1990 biography of starring Katharine Hepburn, whose So what we get is little
Gabrielle Chanel. bony frame and patrician outspoke- Gabrielle in a moodily chiaroscuro
ness appealed to Chanel, but failed convent-orphanage where her itin-
As a new film about the style icon to engage with audiences. In the erant market trader father had
opens, the Times Fashion Editor autumn, another book will add to dumped her and her sister (the
assesses how she sustained a the Chanel canon. nuns’ habits imbued her with an
career that spanned the bustle to enduring love of black minimal-
the miniskirt Written by Justine Picardie, a ism); Chanel as an ambitious but
former features editor at Vogue, it not notably talented showgirl (her
She was so vigilant about kick- tantalisingly promises hitherto soubriquet Coco came from a
ing over her peasant tracks that she undiscovered details of her eventful vaudeville song about a lost dog)
paid off her brothers to “disappear” life. In the meantime, there is Coco whose day job was working as a
and went to her grave lumbered Before Chanel, the first of several seamstress in Moulins, a garrison
with a tombstone that referred to promised Chanel biopics, this one town in the middle of France;
her as Gabrielle Chasnel, since with Audrey Tautou as a physically Chanel as the mistress of Étienne
retrieving and correcting the mis- at least convincing Gabrielle. Balsan, a local toff who opens a
spelling legally on her birth certifi- door on to a gentler, more refined
cate would have revealed that she Actually Anne Fontaine, the life.
was born in the poorhouse. writer and director of Coco Before
Chanel, stressed that she didn’t No wonder Chanel refused to
Perhaps embellishing her histo- want to produce a standard biopic. be shaken off after he’d had his
ry had become a reflex. Maybe she Since most biopics are plodding, way with her, following Balsan
regarded the truth as a bourgeois one can sympathise. Presumably back to his château and staying
banal convention. that’s why Fontaine focuses on a there long after the two-day invita-
relatively small chunk of Chanel’s tion he had reluctantly issued
Not that Chanel’s exhaustive long (1883 to 1971) and extraordi- expired. Balsan made her hide out
self-invention has ever deterred the narily eventful life the years before of sight (as she later did with her
biographers. Madson’s is one of she became Chanel the celebrity, brothers) when his fashionable
numerous Chanel biographies, and grand couturier, socialite and one of friends visited.
also one of the most readable. the 20th century’s first successful

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 At Balsan’s Chanel learnt to
ride horses like a man, eschewing
the uncomfortable precariousness
of the side-saddle (cue a life-long
passion for androgynous, equestri-
an tailoring); to despise the
overblown, elaborately garnished
clothes of fin de siècle society with
their constricting whalebone corset
and feather-smothered, headache-
inducing picture hats. “How can
you think in one of those?” she
inquires of one of Balsan’s ex-mis-
tresses.
Cue Chanel’s uncorseted, bone-
simple sack-dresses and unadorned
boaters. She learnt, too, how to
hold her own with the smart set,
and that she needed to be independ-
ent (Balsan, having initially viewed
her as a rather embarrassing leech,
came to admire, adore and eventu-
ally propose to her).
But independence was a way
off. In the meantime, the surest
route for a poor but pretty girl
intent on making her way was to
sleep with men. Chanel was too
modern to become a grande hori-
zontale (the wonderful French
euphemism for high-class kept
women); too classy to be an out-
and-out hooker. She settled for
something in between.
While still with Balsan, she met
Arthur (Boy) Capel, a charming
Englishman who came from a
wealthy coal-mining family and
spoke fluent French and, for a
while, she probably slept with both.
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Boy, however, was the one who Boy is killed in a motoring acci-
became the love of her life, even dent, in 1919, we don’t get to see
though he married a wealthy socie- the bouclé suits, the little black
ty Englishwoman halfway through dresses, the suntans, the fake pearls
their love affair. Boy, according to and all the other wardrobe revolu-
the film, sparks an infatuation with tionising stuff that came in the
jersey. “I can only get those in 1920s. Mind you, Chanel is wear-
England,” he remonstrated with ing piped satin pyjamas when she
her, half-amused, half-exasperated, waves Boy off on that fatal journey
as she cuts up another of his shirts you’ll want a pair.
to make one of her increasingly
commented upon, understated There’s an odd little scene at
dresses. the end where an aged Chanel,
perched on the famous staircase in
Another time Boy whisks her her salon on the Rue Cambon,
off to a chic coastal resort probably watches a procession of contempo-
Deauville where, thanks to Boy’s rary models waft past her in the
money, in 1915 she was to open the label’s greatest hits (many of them
second of her shops for a romantic designed by her successor, Karl
tryst. Cue scene on the beach with Lagerfeld) but you need some fash-
Chanel looking almost comically ion knowledge to pick up on this.
under-dressed in one of her ankle- Arguably the film is more interest-
length, checked shift dresses while ed in Chanel the plucky, ultimately
the grandes horizontales have to be tragic, little anti-Edwardian than it
practically wheeled along the sand is in Chanel the great symbol of
in their galleon-like costumes. Cue 20th-century modernism.
next scene where Chanel and Boy
watch the fishermen in their Breton After Boy, though grief strick-
stripy T-shirts hauling in the morn- en, she began an affair with
ing catch. And lo, another Chanel Stravinsky. Her business, which
trope is born. had begun as an unassuming
millinery shop, went from strength
If the film’s fashion-history to strength. Her witty, sometimes
interludes sound heavy handed coruscating aphorisms, impeccable,
that’s because they often are. utterly original sense of chic turned
Fontaine says that she didn’t want her into a celebrity. A stint in
to make a film about fashion, and Hollywood where Sam Goldwyn
it’s true for a film about one of the paid her, in the depths of the
most stylish women of the last cen- Depression, $1 million a year to
tury, the clothes, give or take the make each of his stars Ina Claire,
odd breathtaking black evening Greta Garbo, Gloria Swanson look
gown, are a little on the dour side. like a lady (whereas, The New York
By ending the film shortly after Times dryly observed, most
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Hollywood costume designers
made them look like two ladies)
turned her into a very wealthy
woman. She was at the heart of an
artistic coterie (Cocteau, Diaghilev
and Picasso were all friends) and,
unprecedented for a “seamstress”,
courted by society. A long affair
with “Bendor”, the Duke of
Westminster, had the gossip pages
speculating that she would become
the next Duchess of Westminster.
She would have too, probably, if
she had been able to have a child.
Bendor was certainly keen one
night, having waved off all the
other guests from his yacht, he had
the anchor raised and sailed off
with Chanel while a 40-strong
orchestra serenaded her. But now in
her forties and with a possible
botched abortion or two behind her,
motherhood to her eternal chagrin
was not to be.
Through Bendor she ascended
the summit of society, learnt fluent
English and more importantly in
light of what later happened
befriended Winston Churchill and
his wife Clemmie. By the time the
Second World War broke out,
Chanel had peaked. Elsa
Schiaparelli, her great rival and
espouser of everything she
despised, was fashion’s new
lodestar. The deal Chanel had
struck with the Wertheimer family
in the 1920s to sell perfume under
her name left her feeling, as she put
it, screwed. In turn, they referred to
her as “that bloody woman” and
had an in-house lawyer to deal
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exclusively with the writs that she
issued against them. A strike in
1936 (by then she employed 3,000
workers) had embittered her (even
though she was notoriously stingy
with her models and seamstresses
she expected them to be as dedicat-
ed as she was) and in 1940 she
closed the door of her salon. “At
least I did that,” she would say
later, when accused of collaborat-
ing with the Nazis. Schiaparelli,
meanwhile, carried on selling cou-
ture throughout the war along with
Lanvin, Vionnet and the rest of the
Parisdesigners. And the
Wertheimers, despite being Jewish,
managed to transfer their business,
for the duration of the war, to an
Aryan (not Chanel) and carried on
making money selling flacons of
Chanel No 5 to the Nazis (who,
when the scent ran out, bought the
display bottles).
None of Chanel’s rivals howev-
er to public knowledge had an
affair with an SS officer. Hans
Gunther von Dinklage’s mother
was English, as Chanel would later
point out in mitigation. And she
was nearly 60 when their affair
began. “At that age do you expect
me to check a potential lover’s
passport?” In Chanel’s mind there
was nothing treacherous about their
affair: indeed, incredibly, at one
point she was dispatched to broker
peace talks with her old friend
Churchill. She failed. After the war
she was arrested, released and nar-
rowly escaped being tarred and
feathered. No doubt about it, she
803
was in disgrace and spent the rest of
the decade with Von Dinklage in
Switzerland.
Her comeback in 1951, wasn’t
an unadulterated success either.
Dior’s New Look in 1947 had
changed everything, not least
women’s taste for Chanel’s brand
of luxurious, understated sports-
wear. Admirers with long memo-
ries were hopeful that Chanel, who
had been off the fashion scene for
15 years, would bring about anoth-
er style revolution akin to the one
that she’d ignited during the First
World War. What she gave them
was a refined version of what she’d
already done. It was a slow burn.
But if the reaction to her comeback
show was a politely muted indiffer-
ence, within 12 months her styles
were being copied around the
world. This time she pioneered a
form of ready-to-wear selling pat-
terns of her couture pieces to
American department stores that
allowed them to be made for more
accessible prices in the US.
None of this is told in Coco
Before Chanel perhaps because the
film was made with the collabora-
tion of the house of Chanel,
Fontaine was wary of going near
the Nazi stuff. So it only partially
shows how pivotal a part Chanel
played in the liberation of women.
This was a woman who spanned
one era that included the tail-end of
the bustle and another in which the
miniskirt came and went. In
between she elegantly cleared a
path for women to succeed vertical-
ly, not just as horizontales. Fontaine
didn’t want to make a film about
fashion. Instead she’s made one
about a love affair. For once, the
fashion would have been more
interesting.

Coco Before Chanel is released on

July 31

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 & TRENDS Legendary fra- Chanel No. 5 to withstand the test the scenes legends of the famous
N EWS
grance Chanel N°5 has been of time.
the signature scent of well-heeled
fragrance are almost as glamorous
as the scent itself.
women since 1921. Chanel N°5 has been a part of
pop culture from Marilyn Monroe
According to Coco, wear per- who claimed to wear nothing but
fume where you want to be kissed. two drops of Chanel N°5 to bed to
The scent represents Chanel, in its artist Andy Warhol, who immortal-
modern-shaped bottle an opulent, ized the iconic perfume bottle in
yet mysterious scent that builds on his art.
the multitude of legends that have
grown around the most famous per- The latest woman to wear
fume in the world. Chanel N°5 is French actress
Audrey Tatou. In a new film, by
As the first designer perfume, director Jean-Pierre Jeunet, Audrey
Chanel N°5 utilizes black and catches an old-fashioned sleeper
white, elements that Chanel played train and finds love. Her male
with all through her career as a counterpart seeks her out through
fashion designer. On the Web site, her signature scent as the train bar-
you can watch Chanel master per- rels to her final destination. Once
fume as he walks through the histo- she arrives, the couple finally
ry of the legendary fragrance, and meets and embraces as he is
explains how it came to be, from attracted by her scent.
the design of the bottle, to the large
amount of jasmine flowers and spe- Audrey was chosen because
cial use of aldehydes used to create she is so able to convey emotion,
the luxurious scent. without ever saying a word. Under
the careful direction of Jean-Pierre,
The endurance of Chanel N°5 the range of emotions invoked by
is attributed to the fact that each Chanel N°5 comes alive.
woman who wears it adds a bit of
herself to the scent, allowing The film itself and the behind

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I T IS DIFFICULT TO DISAPPROVE
completely of the woman who
invented the little black dress. And
trousers for women. And sports-
wear as a fashion statement. And
the sun tan. But there were many
shadows in the long life of
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Not all of
them are revealed in the French
bio-pic of her early life which
opens in Britain this Friday.
A biopic of 'Mademoiselle'
Chanel is set to be one of the
movie hits of the summer.
John Lichfield reports on an
icon who prospered in
German-occupied France
"Mademoiselle" Chanel was a
public figure for more than half a
century but she was also a compul-
sively secretive woman. She had
much to be secretive about, includ-
ing her flirtation and, in the case of
one senior German officer, her love Chanel, starring Audrey Tautou as
affair with the Nazis.
The understated Chanel style lowing only Gabrielle Chanel's
twice transformed the world of early life.
fashion, once in the 1920s and then
again in the 1950s. "There is noth-
ing so beautiful as emptiness," she
said. But her advocacy of simplici-
ty and sombre colours (and espe-
cially black) was also, it appears, a
cloak for her own personal tastes
and especially her taste for secrecy.
For many years
"Mademoiselle" Chanel had a flat
over her "workshop" in the Rue
Cambon in Paris, where she spent
every afternoon alone before
returning to her suite in the nearby
Ritz Hotel. When she died in 1971,
aged 87, her private retreat turned
out to be a riot of violent colour
and Rococo sophistication, things
that the public "Mademoiselle"
Chanel claimed to despise. It was
as though Pablo Picasso (a close
friend) had been caught out with a
secret stash of sentimental, 19th-
century watercolours.
The movie Coco before
the great woman, sidesteps most of
this biographical untidiness by fol-
She was born in Saumur on the
Loire in 1883, not 1893 as she
sometimes claimed. Gabrielle liked
to say that her father was a busi-
nessman who left to seek his for-
tune in America. Albert Chanel
was, in fact, a peddler who aban-
doned his family.
When her mother died,
Gabrielle was 12 years old and she
and her two sisters were placed in
an orphanage. At 18, she moved to
a convent where she was employed
as a seamstress, a skill which would
eventually make her one of the
most influential women of the 20th
century.
She initially tried to make her
fortune as a music hall singer in a
theatre in Vichy frequented by
army officers and other wealthy
young men. It was here that she
acquired her nickname and the first
of the two lovers who would help
her achieve fame and fortune.
There are several versions of the
origin of her nickname. The most
plausible is that, while she was a
singer, her most popular act was a
brainless song called "Qui qu'a vu
Coco dans l'Trocadero".

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 The young Coco was a beauti-
ful, slender woman, not unlike
Audrey Tautou in looks. She had
several lovers, culminating in a
semi-official appointment as the
second mistress of Etienne Balsan,
a wealthy young man who bred
horses. Although the relationship
did not last long, it introduced her
to high society and led to a long,
sincere and very successful roman-
tic and business partnership with an
Englishman living in France,
Arthur "Boy" Capel. Although
Capel refused to marry her, he
remained faithful, in his way, until
his death in 1919.
He and Balsan helped to set her
up, originally, in a hat-making busi-
ness. She also became celebrated in
the wealthy horse-racing world
before the 1914 - 18 war for her
revolutionary style of dress: no
coloured silk and frills and, flowery
hats but a slender, schoolgirl look
in whites and blacks and, unthink-
ably, trousers or jodhpurs.
In 1910, Boy Capel loaned her
the money to set up her first fashion
salon in the heart of Paris. Her
"new silhouette" designs for
women – taking ideas and materials
from menswear and sportswear for
the first time boomed in the anti-
establishment mood after the war.
The "flapper look" of the independ-
ent young women of the 1920s,
including the slender figure and
short hair, was mostly a Coco look.
When France was liberated in
Traditionalists accused her of 1944, hundreds of French women
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"luxurious miserabilism", but she had their heads shaved and were
expressed in fashion the ideas of paraded through the streets for
the modern movement. The secret alleged "collaboration horizontale"
of her success was, she said, with the Germans. They were most-
"always to remove and to pluck, ly poor women or prostitutes. Few
never to add. The greatest beauty isrich women were attacked. Partly
the freedom of the body". through pulling strings with friends
in the British royalty and aristocra-
Coco Chanel became such an cy, Coco avoided both official and
icon that everything she did was unofficial punishment and fled, in
copied. Until the 1920s, pale skins disgrace, to Switzerland.
for women had been the vogue.
When she returned accidentally She relaunched her Paris fash-
sun-tanned from a holiday beside ion house in 1954 driven by her
(of all places) the North Sea, the hatred of Christian Dior and the
fashion changed. She was the first "New Look". She accused him of
clothes designer to launch her own restoring the 19th-century ideal of
perfumes, including Chanel No 5 in women as pretty objects for the
1921. Much of the investment, and comfort of men. A woman sitting
the profits, for her perfume busi- down in a Dior dress, she said,
ness belonged to a pair of Jewish looked like "an old armchair".
entrepreneurs called the
Wertheimer brothers. During the Her business and influence
Second World War one of several boomed once again, the pink suit
shadows on her reputation worn by Jackie Kennedy in Dallas
"Mademoiselle" Chanel tried to use on the day of her husband's assassi-
the anti-Semitic laws of the Vichy nation in 1963 was a Chanel cre-
government to claim the business ation. But most of her post-war cus-
for herself. tomers and admirers were foreign.
When the Germans entered The French never quite forgave
Paris in June 1940, Coco closed her "Mademoiselle" Coco, the woman
fashion house and moved into the who preached simplicity, for living
Ritz. She had a comfortable war in an elaborately luxurious war in the
the arms of a convinced Nazi and arms of a German officer.
intelligence officer, Hans Gunther
von Dincklage. She was even
involved in a hare-brained attempt
to negotiate a separate British-
German peace in 1943.
807
Tautou, who plays Chanel in a new tional star by founding her epony- having already made the break into
biopic, included collaboration with mous fashion label. Hollywood, starring in films like
the Nazis and rumoured anti- the Da Vinci Code in 2006. She has
Semitism among the designer's The film focuses on the early years also made her mark in the fashion
moral failings. of Gabrielle Chanel, who was nick- work, replacing Nicole Kidman as
named Coco during her failed the face of Chanel No 5, Coco
The designer has been accused of attempt to launch a singing career. Chanel's classic perfume.
collaboration with the Nazis during It has already been widely criticised
the Second World War when she for ignoring Chanel's passionate Chanel was 87 when she died in
lived at the Paris Ritz hotel with a affair with Hans Gunther von 1971.
German lover. Dincklage during the wartime
occupation of Paris.
Chanel was also notoriously anti-
Jewish and disliked homosexuals. Chanel's alleged anti-Semitism and
homophobia have also been under-
"She was a liar, so it's difficult to played, critics have said. Asked if
know who she was before she she had reservations about taking
became famous and had some suc- on the role of a national icon,
cess," Tautou told Sky News in an Tautou said: 'It's not scary, but it's
interview. more of a responsibility.

"She didn't want to talk about her 'I didn't want to betray her. I want-
youth, I don't know why, maybe she ed to have a sense of her character,
was ashamed or maybe she didn't her personality. 'It was more inter-
want people to feel pity for her esting to get as deep as possible in
because she came from a poor fam- her sensitivity and creation, rather
ily." than just giving the main cliché of
her life.'
Coco Before Chanel, the new film
starring Tatou, tells the story of Tautou shot to fame in Amélie in
how Chanel rose from a country 2001 and is now widely recognised
orphanage to become an interna- as one of France's finest actresses,

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“She likes dresses with no corsets,
hats with no feathers that’s my
Coco!” gushes Étienne Balsan, a
rich French playboy and lover of
Coco Chanel in Coco Before
Chanel, the new biopic charting the
rags to riches tale of the French
fashion pioneer played by Audrey
Tautou.
Audrey Tautou stars as the
French fashion icon that
defined chic for a whole gener-
ation
And he was right to marvel at
her offbeat sense of style, which,
during her early years stood her
apart from wealthy Parisian society,
but would evolve into one of the
most successful and celebrated
fashion empires ever bringing us
such timeless treasures as quilted
handbags, oversized pearl neck-
laces, the little black dress and the
iconic fragrance, Chanel No5.
Introducing the original haute cou-
ture rebel.
With a film based on a fashion
designer, the building of their
empire and their own quirky dress
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sense, costume isn’t so much a side great dedication to authentic detail,
attraction as one of the starring Coco Before Chanel is a drama not
players, basking in the spotlight of a documentary and so certain subtle
centre-stage. And so to help bring liberties are taken. There are
the period clothes of Chanel’s era to tweaks to the timeline, for example
life, director Anna Fontaine turned the striped mariner’s sweater,
to Catherine Leterrier, two-time which was famously snapped on
winner of the César Awards, Coco in the 1930s is brought into
France’s prestigious national film the action earlier than biographical
prizes. With 25 years of top experi- facts suggest. Similarly Coco’s cre-
ence including work on fashion ative processes behind certain
favourite Prêt-à-Porter, Leterrier items, such as the quilt bag, are
wasn’t fazed by the challenge, in imagined for dramatic effect.
contrast she and her wardrobe team
were thrilled at the prospect. “My Where Coco’s actual inspira-
whole team, from lead hand down tions are known, such as her preoc-
to trainee, was highly motivated cupation with black coming as a
and everyone found it awe inspiring result of her overwhelming grief at
to be making the costumes for Coco the death of Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel
Chanel,” she enthuses. “It’s like (played by Alessandro Nivola), the
doing Molière when you are an undisputed love of her life, they are
actor, for us, Chanel is mythical!” charted, playing their part in the
birth of a fashion philosophy that
Exploring deeper into this would change haute couture forev-
myth, Leterrier’s work began in a er. One that evolved along with the
manner much “the same as for any woman behind it.
other period film” she explains
research. “We did research from Chanel was always at odds with
real garments in museums, flea society’s styles. Born in a poor-
markets, vintage shops or private house, her roots were modest and
collections and research from paint- this poverty is evident in her dress.
ing and photos.” Yet despite this “At first, she appears as a little
809
peasant girl, unpolished with a bee-
hive hairstyle,” describes Fontaine
and later, once accepted into more
moneyed company, she continues
to flout the fashions. While other
women are embracing their femi-
ninity, flaunting their womanly
curves in bust-enhancing corsets,
vivid colours and frothy decora-
tions, Chanel is androgynous in
masculine suits with squared shoul-
ders and boater hats, clean unfussy
lines and little colour.
Fontaine continues: “She was
different. Chanel turned this differ-
ence into a fundamental asset… In
the scene at the hippodrome or the
beach in Deauville, we noticed the
total opposition of the style of
Chanel with the dresses of those
women and their elaborate head-
dresses, all the frills and corsets
that cut them in half! They had a
decorative posture, whereas Chanel
was concerned with the existence
of the individual.”
Of course, this period of isolation
didn’t last and the one-time fashion
misfit metamorphosed into an unri-
valled trendsetter, becoming what
Fontaine calls “the incarnation of
French chic”. Cue the sharp skirt
suits and pearls the Chanel myth
beloved by subsequent generations
including Leterrier.
With so many years and so
many styles to represent, the cos-
tumer and her team had their work
cut out in creating the assorted
wardrobes. There’s no stocking up
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at the high street when working on “Particularly for the final
a period drama, nor could they cut sequence,” she adds, “where it was
any corners these clothes had to unthinkable not to have dresses by
look worthy of the great designer the Chanel label.”
herself. “They had to be up to the
exacting standards of haute cou- And according to the director,
ture,” says Leterrier. Lagerfeld didn’t look to influence
or control the artistic direction of
To plough through the task, the film’s fashions, though he was
they set-up a temporary workshop outspoken on the choice of Tautou
enlisting among the many special- for the role, hugely confident in the
ists milliners Stephen Jones and Amelie star’s ability to portray
Pippa Cleator to help produce the Chanel. “When Karl saw pictures
approximately 800 hats needed. For of Audrey Tautou, he told me she
accessories, they cast their net far was the only ‘true Chanel’”, recalls
and wide as the designer remem- the director.
bers: “I hunted down the cotton
braids, silk ribbons, buttons and And surely there can be no higher
other period accessories at flea praise.
markets and antiques dealers. I
even found a platinum and diamond
necklace that had belonged to
Mademoiselle Chanel at the Louvre
des Antiquaires [home to 250
antique and jewellery galleries]. In
the film, this magnificent piece
adorns Audrey Tautou’s graceful
neck in the restaurant scene where
she appears in a black sequined
evening dress.”
But there remained a final
source of costumes the house of
Chanel itself. Now under the steady
stewardship of Karl Lagerfeld, the
filmmakers were granted the use of
authentic outfits and jewellery from
the Chanel Conservatory which are
modelled by Tautou in the closing
catwalk scene. This collaboration
provided the ultimate seal of
approval and was “indispensable”
in the words of Fontaine.
810

C HANEL WILL ONLY ALLOW THE
VERY BEST JASMINE to make its
signature No 5 perfume, and that
has come from the same fields in
Provence for the last 88 years.
Geneviève Roberts finds out how
the farmers stay on the scent
BENZYL ACETATE, HEDIONE, DI
HYDRO ISO JASMONATE, etc.
It is hard to imagine what
might connect a crinkle-faced
farmer in Provence to either
Marilyn Monroe or Audrey Tautou.
The clue is in the explosion of
white flowers around him. Every
August Joseph Mul and his work-
ers fan out across the fields in this
far south-eastern corner of France
to hand-pick the delicate petals of
jasmine that go into the world's
most famous perfume: Chanel No.
5.
The 70-year-old is the fifth
generation of his family to work for
the perfume house. The farm has
been involved with the signature
No. 5 scent a bottle of which is sold
every 55 seconds since its incep-
tion in 1921. Indeed the olfactory
combination is so unique that the
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Chanel formula actually specifies farmer says.
the precise origin of the white
flowers used. Mr Mul, who works with his
brother Marius, employs at least 70
"It's the most expensive jas- people every year to help pick the
mine in the world," the farmer five hectares of flowers, all by
explains. "It's a sweeter scent, less hand, during the three-month har-
aggressive and softer than exotic vest that starts in August. Many of
jasmine. It would be a different them are members of his family.
perfume if the flowers were culti- "Our children work with us, each
vated elsewhere." generation is involved, and we have
a regular group of people who help
The glamourous starlets who with the harvest each year," he said.
daub their neck and wrists with the
perfume, and the hordes who pile Chanel safeguarded the crop
through the revolving doors of two decades ago, at a time when
Parisian department stores such as exotic jasmine was flourishing in
Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, more far-flung climes. "We're
are a world removed from the fam- between 20 and 30 times more
ily-run jasmine harvest based on expensive than the jasmine pro-
the town of Grasse. duced in Egypt or India," Mr Mul
said.
"The process cannot be mecha-
nised," Mr Mul insists. So it is a "We live in a privileged micro-
painstaking endeavour. The plant climate on the Côte d'Azur, where
flourishes at night, and each morn- it's not too hot in summer, which
ing, the harvesters rise to start pick- means our jasmine is of an excep-
ing the crop at 6am, piling the tional quality. The optimum is for
petals in wicker baskets. the temperature at night to remain
above 18 degrees, and to never rise
"One person picks half a kilo of above 28 degrees in the sun."
flowers an hour by hand," the
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 He is clearly passionate about lorry." the precaution of growing 20 per
his work. He recounts the story of cent more flowers than needed, just
how the world-famous scent, worn This year, some perfume enthu- in case the crop is attacked.
in bed by Monroe and now being siasts had feared that new regula-
advertised by the French actress tions from the International "We have never lost a harvest,"
Tautou, got its name. Coco Chanel Fragrance Association (IFRA), he said, reassuringly. "And the con-
commissioned perfumer Ernest which come into effect next ditions this year were optimal."
Beaux to create six scents for her to January, would spell the end of
choose from in 1921, and she liked Chanel No. 5. The use of natural
number five, also her lucky num- jasmine will, for the first time, be
ber, which was rich in may rose and restricted in all perfumes to 0.7 per
jasmine for its middle notes. cent of the finished product, to
ensure that wearers have no allergic
Once the jasmine flowers in reaction to the flower.
Grasse have been picked, they have
to be quickly treated. "We immedi- The Paris-based fragrance his-
ately put them in contact with the torian Octavian Sever Coifan wrote
extraction solvent hexane. If they're on her blog that this would "repre-
left for any time, the scent starts to sent the end of Chanel No. 5 leg-
decay," explains Jean-François end."
Vieille, who has spent the last two
decades turning the crop into a But Jean-Pierre Houri, head of
caramel-coloured solid, known as the IFRA, was categorical in his
concrete, that can be easily trans- denial.
ported.
"Chanel No. 5 will be unaffect-
"During the harvest, we work ed by the IFRA restrictions." And a
for as many hours as it takes. But spokesperson for Chanel said that
we don't count hours; the flowers "Evidently when the new standards
need harvesting every day. I do the were issued we immediately
best I can to produce a high-quality checked the percentages in our fin-
ingredient: we must take care ished products and in none of our
because we work for a high-quality fragrances is the recommended
perfumery," he said. One kilogram level exceeded."
of petals means picking around
8,000 raw flowers, and 350 kilos Back in Grasse, the scent capi-
are needed to make one kilo of con- tal of the world where the air is
crete, worth between € 9,000 and infused with the town's €600m a
€ 10,000 ( £ 8,600 ). "When the lor- year perfume industry, workers are
ries transport the concrete to Paris equally unfazed. The only thing
for Chanel, we do not tell them worrying Mr Mul is the fungus
what is inside," Mr Vieille said. attacking the roots of the flower.
"Fortunately, we have never lost a But he is quick to add that they take

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Lisa Armstrong looks at what the Since most biopics are plodding, too modern to become a grande
new Chanel biopic neglects to tell one can sympathise. Presumably horizontale (the wonderful French
you, and how the icon’s men helped that’s why Fontaine focuses on a euphemism for high-class, kept
her ascend the summit of society. relatively small chunk of Chanel’s women); too classy to be an out-
long (1883 to 1971) and extraordi- and-out hooker. She settled for
‘She made up things.” That’s narily eventful life the years before something in between.
the not entirely encouraging opener she became Chanel the celebrity,
to Axel Madson’s 1990 biography grand couturier, socialite and one of While still with Balsan, she met
of Gabrielle Chanel. the 20th century’s first successful Arthur (Boy) Capel, a charming
businesswomen. Englishman who came from a
She was so vigilant about kicking wealthy coal-mining family and
over her peasant tracks that she So what we get in this slice of spoke fluent French and, for a
paid off her brothers to “disappear”. Chanel’s life is among other guises while, she probably slept with both.
Chanel as the mistress of Étienne
Not that Chanel’s exhaustive Balsan, a local toff who opens a Capel, however, was the one
self- invention has ever deterred the door on to a gentler, more refined who became the love of her life,
biographers. Madson’s is one of life. even though he married a wealthy
numerous Chanel biographies. In society Englishwoman halfway
late 2009, another book will add to No wonder Chanel refused to through their love affair.
the Chanel canon, this time by be shaken off after he’d had his
Justine Picardie, a former features way with her, following Balsan Another time Capel whisks her
editor at Vogue. In the meantime, back to his château and staying off to a chic coastal resort probably
there is Coco Avant Chanel (Coco there long after the two-day invita- Deauville where, thanks to Capel’s
Before Chanel), the first of several tion he had reluctantly issued money, she was to open the second
promised Chanel biopics, this one expired. Balsan made her hide out of her shops in 1915 for a romantic
with Audrey Tautou as a physically of sight (as she later did with her tryst. Cue scene on the beach with
at least convincing Gabrielle. brothers) when his fashionable Chanel looking almost comically
friends visited. under-dressed in one of her ankle-
Actually Anne Fontaine, the length, checked shift dresses while
writer and director of Coco Avant The surest route for a poor but the grandes horizontales have to be
Chanel, stressed that she didn’t pretty girl intent on making her way practically wheeled along the sand
want to produce a standard biopic. was to sleep with men. Chanel was in their galleon-like costumes. And

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lo, another Chanel trope is born. her feeling, as she put it, screwed,
however. In turn, they referred to Her comeback in 1951 wasn’t
Arguably the film is more inter- her as “that bloody woman” and an unadulterated success either.
ested in Chanel the plucky, ulti- had an in-house lawyer to deal Admirers with long memories were
mately tragic, little anti-Edwardian exclusively with the writs that she hopeful that Chanel, who had been
than it is in Chanel the great symbol issued against them. off the fashion scene for 15 years,
of 20th- century modernism. would bring about another style
A strike in 1936 (by then she revolution akin to the one that she’d
Later in her life she began an employed 3000 workers) had ignited during the First World War.
affair with Igor Stravinsky. Her embittered her and in 1940 she What she gave them was a refined
business, which had begun as an closed the door of her salon. version of what she’d already done.
unassuming millinery shop, went It was a slow burn. But if the reac-
from strength to strength. A stint in “At least I did that,” she would tion to her comeback show was a
Hollywood where Sam Goldwyn say later, when accused of collabo- politely muted indifference, within
paid her, in the depths of the rating with the Nazis. Despite being 12 months her styles were being
Depression, 1-million a year to Jewish, the Wertheimers managed copied around the world. This time
make each of his stars Ina Claire, to transfer their business for the she pioneered a form of ready-to-
Greta Garbo, Gloria Swanson look duration of the war to an Aryan and wear styles selling patterns of her
like a lady turned her into a very carried on making money selling couture pieces to American depart-
wealthy woman. She was at the flacons of Chanel No 5 to the Nazis ment stores that allowed them to be
heart of an artistic coterie (Cocteau (who, when the scent ran out, made for more accessible prices in
and Picasso were all friends) and, bought the display bottles). the US.
unprecedented for a “seamstress”.
A long affair with “Bendor”, the Chanel was nearly 60 when her None of this is told in Coco
Duke of Westminster, had the gos- affair with the SS officer Hans Avant Chanel perhaps because the
sip pages speculating that she Gunther von Dinklage began. His film was made with the collabora-
would become the next Duchess of mother was English, as Chanel tion of the house of Chanel,
Westminster. Bendor was certainly would later point out in mitigation. Fontaine was wary of going near
keen one night, having waved off “At that age do you expect me to the Nazi stuff. And it only partially
all the other guests from his yacht, check a potential lover’s passport?” shows how pivotal a part Chanel
he had the anchor raised and sailed In Chanel’s mind there was nothing played in the liberation of women.
off with Chanel while a 40-strong treacherous about their affair:
orchestra serenaded her. indeed, incredibly, at one point she This was a woman who
was dispatched to broker peace spanned one era that included the
Through Bendor she ascended talks with her old friend Churchill. tail-end of the bustle and another in
the summit of society, learnt fluent She failed. which the miniskirt came and went.
English and befriended Winston In between she elegantly cleared a
Churchill and his wife Clemmie. After the war, she was arrested, path for women to succeed vertical-
By the time the Second World War released and narrowly escaped ly not just as horizontales.
broke out, Chanel had peaked. The being tarred and feathered. No
deal Chanel had struck with the doubt about it, she was in disgrace
Wertheimer family in the ’20s to and spent the rest of the decade
sell perfume under her name left with Von Dinklage in Switzerland.

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 KNIGHTLEY IS TOPLESS in
K EIRA
a tasteful way, naturally. The
gamin Keira Knightley is not top-
less in some tawdry magazine to be
poured over by adolescent boys at
school and men in Welsh caravan
parks.

Keira Knightley is no tart. Her

topless shots are demure, and only
hint at light bondage and her avail-
ability to be squired over a pile of
David Beckham’s jumpers or the
prow of a pirate ship.

The men in the pictures are on

higher things. The woman with the
camera a madame of the artes.

Keira’s primary sexual charac-

teristics are being used to sell
Chanel perfume. What more noble
cause than that?

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Keira Knightley is hot to trot in top- them slightly larger and you’ll get
less new Chanel ad approval' and I was like, "OK, fine.
I honestly don't give a shit".
Keira Knightley has dared to bare
in a raunchy new ad campaign for Well, either way, we think she
Chanel. looks just swell!

The 24-year-old actress peeled off

her top and maintains her modesty
with a strategically placed pair of
braces in a new campaign for
Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle per-
fume.

The Pirates of the Caribbean star

once before admitted that her bust
had been given a little boost in a set
of movie pics, and the buxom new
ad may beg the question of whether
she received any help in the cleav-
age department again.

When Keira posed for posters of for

her King Arthur movie in 2004, she
revealed her bust had been digitally
altered.

She told a US magazine: ‘Those

things certainly weren’t mine.

‘We had an interesting discussion

when they said, "We want to make

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 T'S The movie Coco before semi-official appointment as the
I DIFFICULT
COMPLETELY
TO DISAPPROVE
of the woman who
invented the little black dress. And
Chanel, starring Audrey Tautou as
the great woman, sidesteps most of
second mistress of Etienne Balsan,
a wealthy young man who bred
trousers for women. And sports- this biographical untidiness by fol- horses. Although the relationship
wear as a fashion statement. And lowing only Chanel's early life. did not last long, it introduced her
the sun tan. But there were many to high society and led to a long,
shadows in the long life of She was born in Saumur on the sincere and very successful roman-
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. Not all of Loire in 1883, not 1893 as she tic and business partnership with an
them are revealed in the French sometimes claimed. She liked to Englishman living in France,
biopic of her early life which say her father was a businessman Arthur "Boy" Capel.
opened last week. who left to seek his fortune in
America. Albert Chanel was, in He and Balsan helped to set her
"Mademoiselle" Chanel was a fact, a peddler who abandoned his up, originally, in a hat-making busi-
public figure for more than half a family. ness. She also became celebrated in
century but she was also a compul- the wealthy horse-racing world
sively secretive woman. She had When her mother died, Chanel before the 1914-18 war for her rev-
much to be secretive about, includ- was 12 years old and she and her olutionary style of dress: no
ing her flirtation - and, in the case two sisters were placed in an coloured silk and frills and flowery
of one senior German officer, her orphanage. At 18, she moved to a hats but a slender, schoolgirl look
love affair - with the Nazis. convent where she was employed in whites and blacks and, unthink-
as a seamstress. ably, trousers or jodhpurs.
For many years Chanel had a
flat over her "workshop" in the Rue She initially tried to make her In 1910, Capel loaned her the
Cambon in Paris, where she spent fortune as a music hall singer in a money to set up her first fashion
every afternoon alone before theatre in Vichy frequented by salon in the heart of Paris. Her
returning to her suite in the nearby army officers and other wealthy "new silhouette" designs for
Ritz Hotel. When she died in 1971, young men. women boomed in the anti-estab-
aged 87, her private retreat turned lishment mood after the war.
out to be a riot of violent colour The young Chanel was a beau-
and Rococo sophistication, things tiful, slender woman, not unlike Traditionalists accused her of
that the public Chanel claimed to Audrey Tautou in looks. She had "luxurious miserabilism", but she
despise. several lovers, culminating in a expressed in fashion the ideas of

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the modern movement. comfort of men. A woman sitting
down in a Dior dress, she said,
She was the first clothes looked like "an old armchair".
designer to launch her own per-
fumes, including Chanel No 5 in Her business and influence
1921. Much of the investment, and boomed once again, the pink suit
the profits, for her perfume busi- worn by Jackie Kennedy in Dallas
ness belonged to a pair of Jewish on the day of her husband's assassi-
entrepreneurs called the nation in 1963 was a Chanel cre-
Wertheimer brothers. During World ation. But most of her post-war cus-
War 2 Chanel tried to use the anti- tomers and admirers were foreign.
Semitic laws of the Vichy govern-
ment to claim the business for her- The French never quite forgave
self. "Mademoiselle" Coco, the woman
who preached simplicity, for living
When the Germans entered an elaborately luxurious war in the
Paris in June 1940, Chanel closed arms of a German officer. - The
her fashion house and moved into Independent on Sunday
the Ritz. She had a comfortable war
in the arms of convinced Nazi and
intelligence officer Hans Gunther
von Dincklage.

When France was liberated in

1944, hundreds of French women
had their heads shaved and were
paraded through the streets for
alleged "collaboration horizontale"
with the Germans. They were most-
ly poor women or prostitutes. Few
rich women were attacked. Partly
through pulling strings with friends
in the British royalty and aristocra-
cy, Coco avoided both official and
unofficial punishment and fled, in
disgrace, to Switzerland.

She relaunched her Paris fash-

ion house in 1954 driven by her
hatred of Christian Dior and the
"New Look". She accused him of
restoring the 19th-century ideal of
women as pretty objects for the

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Tokyo - when she was young. She had aspi- with Chanel. “I didn’t try to copy
rations to become a singer and her mannerisms or anything. Being
dancer. She saw that as her way out born in the same month and in the
of poverty.” same region of France is about all
F RENCH FASHION DESIGNER
GABRIELLE “COCO” CHANEL is
in vogue this year. The iconic Directed by Anne Fontaine
we have in common.”

designer of the “little black dress,”(“The Girl From Monaco“) and The film has come in for some
who died in 1971 at the age of 87, based on a book by Edmonde heavy criticism overseas for omit-
has so far been the subject of two Charles-Roux, “Coco avant ting the controversial aspects of
films this year. First, Shirley Chanel” looks at the events that Chanel’s life (one of her lovers,
MacLaine played the older Chanel shaped Chanel’s life early on. After with whom she lived in a swank
in the American production “Coco being orphaned, she worked as a Paris hotel, was a Nazi spy in occu-
Chanel,” and now French actress seamstress while singing at night. pied France and Chanel herself was
Audrey Tautou portrays the Eventually, she clawed her way up arrested for being a collaborator but
younger version in the French-lan- in French society thanks to some war crimes charges were mysteri-
guage film “Coco avant Chanel” opportune relationships with high- ously dropped). She was also
(Coco before Chanel). ly-placed men. “There is no doubt allegedly anti-Semetic and homo-
that she was ahead of her time,” phobic.
Tautou, 33, is a fitting choice said Tautou. “Her independence
since she will also be the new face and fierce spirit were like a beacon However, Tautou dodged all
for the perfume Chanel No. 5, tak- for women to come.” that, emphasizing that she just
ing over from Nicole Kidman in a wanted to portray Chanel as a
series of international ad cam- Tautou, who shot to fame in young woman and show how her
paigns starting in November. France in the 2001 film “Le fab- early poverty might have shaped
uleux destin d’Amelie Poulain,” is her creativity. “It was hard to find
Making her 4th visit to Japan, perhaps best known to English- out much about her early life. There
the tall and slender Tautou said she speaking audiences for her co-star- are very few records of her having
learned some unexpected things ring role with Tom Hanks in “The spoken about it,” she said.
about Chanel when she doing Da Vinci Code” (2006). She said
research. “What surprised me most she likes playing strong-willed The actress, who naturally wore
of all was that she never had any characters, but added that she real- Chanel during her official functions
interest in becoming a designer ly didn’t have much in common in Japan, said she likes the simple

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and elegant hallmarks of the
designer’s creations. “Millions of
women owe Coco Chanel a lot of
thanks for liberating them from
corsets and padding,” she said.

The Chanel story will continue

in January with yet another film,
“Coco Chanel and Igor
Stravinsky,” which looks at the
rumored affair between the two
luminaries. “Her life had so many
interesting episodes. I don’t think
anyone knows how much is true or
not, but her influence on the way
women dress, even today, is unde-
niable,” Tautou said.

“Coco avant Chanel” opens in

Japan on Sept 18.

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Ernest Beaux was born on Beaux's first perfume (name Bolsheviks and thus restore the
December 8, 1881, in the village of unknown) was released in 1907 but monarchy. Beaux, fluent in
Suschevo "in Vedernikova's house" his first large success came in 1912 Russian, was to Arkhangel'sk and
in Moscow, near the factory and with his Bouquet de Napoleon, an served at the prison on Mud'yug
offices of A. Rallet & Co. where his eau de cologne that commemorated Island where Bolsheviks captured
French father, Edouard Beaux, was the centennial of the battle of by the White Russian and Allied
employed as chief perfumer and Borodino, Napoleon's last but very armies were held. While survivors
member of Rallet's board of direc- bloody victory in Russia. The fol- of the camp were left with different
tors. lowing year (1913) Beaux is said to impressions of Beaux, there was
have produced his Bouquet de agreement that he was always ele-
After finishing his secondary Catherine, to celebrate the ter- gant in his appearance. For his
education in 1898, Ernest Beaux centennial of the Romanov service between 1914 and 1919, he
joined Rallet as a lab assistant in dynasty. Some sources confuse this received medals from Britian,
the soap works. Two years later he almost unknown fragrance with France and Imperial Russia.
took a leave of absence for military Brocard's The Empress's Favorite
service in France. Bouquet which today is known as In 1918 Beaux received word
Red Moscow. Beaux speaks of the that he should not return to
When Beaux returned to success of Bouquet de Napoleon in Moscow. In 1919, with his military
Moscow in 1902, he was assigned a 1946 lecture but makes no men- service ended, Beaux was reunited
to Rallet's perfumery division, tion of the Bouquet de Catherine. with wife, son, friends, relatives
working under Rallet's technical and Rallet co-workers in France.
director, A. Lemercier. Lemercier, a In 1914, with the outbreak of Rallet, which had been purchased
modern, original thinker, encour- war, Beaux again found himself in by Chiris in 1898, had set up oper-
aged Beaux to explore new trends the military. Beaux appears to have ations at La Bocca, near Cannes.
in perfumery and perfumery mate- served in combat but after Russia Again Beaux has his own perfume
rials as well as new social and cul-
left the War in 1917 and the fight laboratory.
tural trends. with Germany ended in 1918,
Lieutenant Beaux served as a At La Bocca, Beaux was some-
In 1907 Beaux was elevated to counter intelligence officer in the thing of a celebrity to the younger
the position of technical director multinational force that attempted French perfumers. These compan-
and became a member of Rallet's to support the White Russian army ions included Henri Robert, Henri
board of directors. in their effort to overthrow the Almeras, and Vincent Roubert.

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Henri Robert's father, Joseph knew of Rallet and, quite likely, resent his friend Eugene Charabot
Robert, was Chiris's technical knew Beaux either personally or by in Paris.
director. reputation from their Moscow days.
In 1924, the year Ernest
In his 1946 lecture, Beaux men- In response to her request for a Wertheimer went into a perfume
tions his military service in lands perfume, Beaux according to his marketing partnership with Coco
above the arctic circle "where the own words presented her with two Chanel, Beaux was hired by Paul
rivers and lakes release a note of series of bottles, the first numbered and Pierre Wertheimer to be the
incredibly freshness". He commit- 1 through 5, and the second, 20 technical director of both Parfums
ted this note to memory. through 24. According to Beaux' Chanel and Bourjois, the
report of the meeting, she chose the Wertheimer's existing perfume and
But even before 1914, Beaux bottle numbered "5" and, when cosmetics business which already
had been experimenting with alde- asked what she would call it, told had achieved international distribu-
hydes, inspired in part by Beaux that she would call it tion, including outlets in the United
Houbigant's 1912 Quelques Fleurs, "Number Five" which she did. States.
in which Houbigant perfumer,
Robert Bienaimé, successfully Between 1920 and 1922, Beaux During the 1930's, Chanel and
made use of aldehyde C-12 MNA. produced a number of fragrances Bourjois released a number of fra-
It is believe that Beaux's Bouquet for Chanel, some no more than grances in which Ernest Beaux, no
de Catherine was an effort to make experiments. These deliveries were doubt, had a hand. But in a rare
use of these new materials. in small quantitites from his own 1953 interview, Pierre Wertheimer
Although we do not know the exact lab at La Bocca. No.5 and No.22 explained to Time magazine that
year of its rebirth, Bouquet de and the ones that are remembered. companies such as Chanel and
Catherine evolved into Rallet Le Beaux lacked the capacity to manu- Bourjois could each only afford to
No.1, first marketed by Rallet and facture these fragrances in larger promote a single fragrance, and this
later by Coty after Coty acquired quantities and Chanel lacked the fragrance would provide them with
Rallet in 1929. ability to sell more than a handful the bulk of their business. To pro-
of bottles. mote more than a single fragrance
During the years 1919 to 1920, was simply too expensive. For
no doubt working from his Bouquet In 1922, Beaux's laboratory at Chanel, No.5 was "the" fragrance;
de Catherine experiments Beaux La Bocca became a favorite "tourist for Bourjois it was Soir de Paris.
developed a number of fragrances, destination" for diplomats during
including those that would become the Conference of Cannes at which Although New York based
Chanel No.5 and Chanel No.22. In Germany reparations from the First Henri Robert became Chanel's
1920, Beaux and Gabrielle "Coco" World War were negotiated. chief perfume in 1954, Beaux
Chanel were introduced by Grand Visitors to Beaux's laboratory remained with the company until
Duke Dimitri Pavlovitch. Dimitri included British Prime Minister, the year before his death when he
had been exiled from Russia before David Lloyd George, French was "let go." He died in his Paris
the 1917 Bolshevik revolution for Premier, Aristide Briand, and Louis apartment in 1961. His funeral was
his role in the assassination of Loucheur (who Time magazine held in the south of France in the
Rasputin and now, in France, had later referred to as "the symbol of Parish of Notre Dame de Graz de
become Chanel's lover in an affair the reputable French profiteer.") In Passy. It is said that the church was
that lasted for about a year. Dimitri the same year Beaux agreed to rep- decorated with roses.

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 But did Beaux create his last that quickly disappeared after
classic in 1936? Beaux, by all Pierre Wertheimer negotiated a new
accounts, worked every day and agreement with Gabriel Chanel.
constantly experimented with ideas
for perfume. During the 1940's,
when Chanel had stopped offering
new collections, a series of per-
fumes appeared under the name
"Mademoiselle Chanel". While
offering these fragrances violated
her agreement with the
Wertheimers, their existance and
Chanel's attempts to ship them to
the United States became a bit of a
game she played with Pierre
Wertheimer, who, she believed,
was not giving her a large enough
share of the profits on "her" fra-
grances.

A recent analysis of Chanel's

Mademoiselle Chanel No. 1 (see
"From Rallet No.1 to Chanel No.5
versus Mademoiselle Chanel
No.1", Perfumer & Flavorist,
October, 2007) has shown it's kin-
ship to Chanel's No.5. Beaux is on
record as having praised the fra-
grance and thus distanced himself
from it, but this recent analysis has
uncovered Beaux's "signature" in
this fragrance making it unlikely
that anyone but Beaux could have
created it. A reconstitution of
Mademoiselle Chanel No.1 which
exhibits a total lack of the aldehy-
des for which Beaux was famous
but makes heavy use of another
material that was new in the 1940s
has shown it to be an exquisite fra-
grance, on the level of Beaux's best
work. Of course we may never
know the truth about this fragance

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A cinema is asking customers to He added: “It’s rather ironic that He added: “It’s actually a split in a
smell their auditorium before theyone of the films that’s on is Coco cast-iron downpipe through the
buy tickets because of a terrible Before Chanel,” a film about the wall of one of our auditoriums.
stench. early years of MASTER PERFUMER
COCO CHANEL famous for creating “It’s not in our premises and it’s not
The famous Cameo cinema in the whiffy Chanel No.5.” sewage it’s sink drainage.
Edinburgh has been plagued with a
vile smelling pong for nearly a Ian Hoey, manager at the Cameo, “But it’s taken us several weeks,
month. said that the pong had been plagu- with the help of various contrac-
ing the cinema for nearly a month tors, to work out what the problem
It has been so bad it left some before they finally found the source was.
movie-goers feeling a bit queasy. drains in a neighbouring building.
“It’s been a nightmare I’ve learned
There was even fears that a body He said: “We’ve had signs up all sorts of things about how pun-
may have been stashed away some- depending on how many people are gent the smell of stake water could
where in the historic building. going in, it’s not always possible to be.”
tell everyone individually.
Movie buff Brian McGlone was Managers have promised punters a
visiting at the weekend but changed “A few people have declined to go much more pleasant ambience by
his mind after being invited to have in or asked for refunds but the the end of the week.
a sniff before buying a ticket.He majority of the audience have
said: “We were hoping to see a film stayed here.” The Cameo is one of the oldest cin-
on Saturday, and it was explained emas in Scotland, dating back to
to us when we bought the tickets Staff finally discovered that the before the First World War in 1914,
that we could go in and see if we source the problem is the drains in when it was called the King’s
liked the smell first because they’ve the next building along. Cinema.
got problems with the drains.
Workers at the Cameo one of the See more of our pictures at our
“They said some people were going oldest cinemas in Scotland are cur- Flickr site and videos at our dedi-
in, but I said ‘I don’t think we fancy rently battling the nasty niff and cated channel, Deadline TV.
that’ especially since my wife has have closed one of the smaller
asthma. screens while the fight goes on.

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 OVIESONLINE More than 40 biographies have movie is already a great advantage
M RECENTLY with
SAT

actress Audrey Tautou (The Da

DOWN
French been written about this extraordi-
nary fashion designer and her leg-
to express how difficult it was to be
of ‘the weaker sex’ at that time. The
Vinci Code, Amelie) to talk about endary life. Chanel’s experience in intelligence of Anne Fontaine, her
her new movie, Coco Before the 20th century was full of audac- finesse, her global vision of the
Chanel. ity, love, turmoil and allure, and her character and the story have been of
story reads like a lesson on life, a utmost importance in her direction
Coco Before Chanel is the novel bursting with adventure. of the film.”
story of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel,
who began her life as a headstrong Tautou was likewise fascinated Audrey Tautou is a fascinating
orphan, and through an extraordi- by Chanel, and though the prospect actress and we really appreciated
nary journey became the legendary of the role had long been hovering her time. Here’s more of what she
couturier who embodied the mod- around her, she was captivated by had to tell us about “Coco Before
ern woman and became a timeless Fontaine’s vision. “I was secretly Chanel”:
symbol of success, freedom and hoping to get an offer with a partic-
style. The film portrays the forma- ular point of view because the Q: This film focuses on Coco
tive years of Chanel's life, the years modernity of this character her Chanel before she became a famous
Chanel spent discovering and spirit, and the position she gave fashion designer. Was it challeng-
inventing herself. women fascinates me,” says ing to find information about the
Tautou. “In addition, when Anne early beginnings of her life?
Coco Before Chanel is directed Fontaine explained how she intend-
by Anne Fontaine (La Fille de ed to treat the subject, I immediate- Audrey Tautou: Because of the part
Monaco/ The Girl From Monaco) ly agreed.” of her life that was chosen to be
from a screenplay by Anne depicted in this film, there was
Fontaine and Camille Fontaine, “Anne has allowed me to actually not a lot of information out
with the collaboration of develop the nature of Chanel by there. And also, what she said about
Christopher Hampton (Dangerous searching different aspects of this this period was often full of lies and
Liaisons), loosely based on role, by shading the emotions, she wanted to hide a lot of the facts.
L'irrégulière (Chanel and Her being fragile and sweet and, at the So, one of the instrumental pieces
World: Friends, Fashion, and same time, commanding and was the biography written by
Fame) by Edmonde Charles-Roux. proud,” the actress continues. “The Edmonde Charles-Roux who had
fact that a woman directs this done an exhaustive investigation

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for 5 years to get to the bottom of who’s existed and has a psychology special view toward fashion and
who Coco Chanel was in this peri- that’s already there. But, where I can you talk about that?
od. And then, there were other worked was on the border, that
books that Audrey read about this frontier between interpreting the Audrey Tautou: I would say that
period and she could tell from the character and finding, exploring she breaks the rules in fashion
different books who believed in the this part of her life that not a lot of because she also breaks the rules as
lies that Coco spread about herself people knew about, and then, the a woman. Behave yourself. So, I
and who didn’t. And, in the case of other side, the mimétisme, or the think clothes for her were not
Edmonde who wrote the definitive imitation, but trying to recreate the superficial. It was the expression of
biography, she dispelled many of part that was the public. So, it’s her spirit. That’s the reason why her
the lies that Coco herself was trying really the work on that border style is still so present, you know,
to set out. between the fictional and then the today and so fashionable. You
persona that people knew about. know, I would say it’s not about…
Q: Audrey, since you were playing Chanel’s style is almost not about
an actual person, how did you Q: What was it about Anne fashion. That’s why, you know, it’s
approach this role compared to Fontaine’s vision that attracted you so unfashionable. I do not personal-
roles that are fictional? to the project and resonated with ly like to follow fads in fashion or
you? things change and where your per-
Audrey Tautou: Yes, playing some- sonality isn’t really expressed. You
body who has a celebrity quotient Audrey Tautou: I think the attrac- know, you accept whatever the new
or people know about adds extra tion was that the film actually was fad is just because that’s the thing
pressure because in the public’s focusing on a short period of her of the moment. That’s not what I
mind they already have preconcep- life and not a sprawling epic biog- gravitate to. I prefer the clothing,
tions or they think they know that raphy and that this was a study of and I do like clothing, but it is more
person. But, based on the research that character at that point in time just a personal expression but not
that Audrey did, both watching and the fact that Anne Fontaine is a following something.
videos and seeing a lot of photo- woman and, as the director, she had
graphs and also reading the novels, a very keen perception of the psy- Q: Would you be interested in con-
it informed the way she wanted to chology of the character and she tinuing with Coco’s life? I think it
interpret this person and that actual- had an understanding of what it would have been interesting to see
ly gave her a lot of freedom to means to function in a man’s world a sequel of what happened after
inject her own self, her own colors, and to advance and to make break- because she had massive success
into this character. throughs in that and the fact that and quite a few lovers.
she. This is not a movie about
Q: Do you feel more liberated clothing. This is a movie about Audrey Tautou: If you’re interested
working with fictional characters somebody who is advancing and in the rest of her life, it’s in part
than with this real character? that the fashion is part of that jour- because this film explored the mys-
ney, but it’s not the end in and of tery of who she was and she lived
Audrey Tautou: I don’t feel liberat- itself. 80 plus years. It would have been
ed or constrained in the way that too reductive to try to cover every
you asked the question and there’s Q: She had a really special vision chapter in her life. It’s true that she
actually some comfort in playing and she broke the rules of fashion at had such a rich life that you could
somebody who has, you know, that time. Do you personally have a make 10 movies about her because

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she had an amazing love life, very wanted to keep .control of her life,
Romanesque, full of hope and and an anecdote which is true, and
tragedies, and men were very she said, because she was living in
important for her and she creates so the Ritz at the end of her life, and
many amazing things, you know, she saw the receptionist of the hotel
not only about the style but if I talk that she knew and she said, “I’m
about the perfume and Chanel No. going to die in 7 minutes” and she
5, it’s amazing. Everything was died 8 minutes after.
revolutionary. Today it seems so
normal and modern. It’s really not Q: That is control.
old fashioned today. But, at that
time, it was just completely new for Audrey Tautou: That’s amazing,
many, many things. So, Chanel is yeah.
such an interesting and unique per-
sonality that I think that’s the rea- Q: Audrey, you’ve worked with
son why, for me, this character male directors and now you’ve
deserved to be treated deeply, you worked with Anne Fontaine, did
know. you see any difference particularly
where your characters are strong
Q: Are there other elements of her female characters in your films?
life that you would have loved to
make a part of this movie or per- Audrey Tautou: No, I don’t really
haps would like to explore in a see any difference, in fact, you
sequel? know. I have no idea also because I
don’t really like to analyze my
Audrey Tautou: Well, I think that I work and my relationship with a
am interested in - I’m very moved director. I don’t like to have dis-
by the very final chapter of Coco tance with the part I’m playing or,
Chanel when she was at the end of you know, the project I’m on or the
her life. For so many decades, she story we are telling. When I’m
was ahead of the times and there is involved, I don’t look at it objec-
a part towards the end where socie- tively or from a distance. But,
ty not only caught up with her but again, I really think that it was very
then surpassed her and she essential when treating such a char-
changed. She lived in incredible acter that it be directed by a
solitude at the end after having a woman. You know, Chanel was so
life full of people and lovers. She feminine and special that a man can
lived in a deep solitude although understand her but a woman can
she still worked and she was func- feel her.
tional and she always kept the sense
of the repartee, the joy of the verbal “Coco Before Chanel” opens in
joust and a sense of humor. The last theaters on September 25th.
little thing, which is the way she

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 S THERE SUCH A THING AS CHANEL were "le misérabilisme de luxe." Her 1954 comeback was engi-
I FATIGUE?
Since her death nearly
30 years ago, Gabrielle "Coco"
(She charged a fortune for them,
clever girl.) She was a living
neered not so much for fashion's
sake as to revive the Chanel brand's
Chanel has become a public rebuke of the adornments that profile in order to drive lagging
domain icon as much as Marilyn, turned women into mere decoration perfume sales.
Audrey and Jackie O. yet wore long ropes of real and
fake pearls, the wit of good junk Chanel's private apartment on
I know, because in my teens I mixed with the good stuff. rue Cambon in Paris is preserved,
had an obsessive phase over the its ornate Coromandel screens still
French designer and memorized Anyone can drip in double Cs, in place, as something of a
every available tidbit about her (her though the impeccable cut of a sim- sideshow attraction. Even Chanel's
life, not her brand). Today, Chanel ple black dress is much harder to off-hand remarks have, with the
is everywhere, yet on evidence, achieve. What would Coco the passage of time, become grand pro-
very little remains of that woman iconoclast make of the ridiculous nouncements as burnished and
except a pastiche of symbols and a concept cars, travelling art installa- repeated as Nietzsche's aphorisms.
scrap of tweed. tions and so-called "luxury" skis "Some people think luxury is the
and bicycles festooned with the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is
Chanel, the original French branded shorthand of "Chanel?" the opposite of vulgarity."
paradox. She wore her brows as The endless interlocking Cs, num- "Elegance is refusal." "Luxury
angular slashes but adorned her ber 5s, quilted leather and her per- must be comfortable, otherwise it is
emancipated bob with a coquettish sonal emblem, the camellia blos- not luxury." "A woman who doesn't
ribbon bow. She was single, a fem- som (from her one true love Boy wear perfume has no future."
inist, yet the fashion Modernist was Capel, who first wore a white
financially supported by men. She camellia blossom in his lapel at the Ah yes, perfume.
threw aside Edwardian propriety Deauville casino). Even the com-
and excess and ushered in an era of pany's cheek rouge is painstakingly Launched in 1921 in a crisply
luxe austerity with casual, body- sculpted to look like the signature plain bottle, Chanel No. 5 is at first
skimming, corset-free dresses of bouclé tweed. Who knows, perhaps whiff pretty awful stuff. Strong and
knitted jersey. Her mousy grey and Coco would have loved the cynical harsh (like the woman herself) with
sober little black dresses flew in the genius of Karl Lagerfeld. Like sharp aldehyde notes that soften
face of Belle Epoque opulence and Madonna, she was driven, a sur- into florals only if you wait patient-
archrival Paul Poiret sniffed they vivor and master of reinvention: ly enough, yet it's still the world's

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top-selling scent. During my
Chanel obsession years, I wore its
sibling Coco, a heady oriental that
was way too grown-up for even my
precocious 14-year-old self.
Today? The blockbuster Coco
Mademoiselle has overtaken sales
of the original Coco. Instead of
haughty brunettes like model Inès
de la Fressange, the ads now pander
to the junior set with the blond star-
let of the moment (most recently,
Keira Knightley). The juice itself?
Watered down with sugary notes
and tinted bubblegum pink.
Pretty and pink is not the
inscrutable Horst Chanel I fell for,
or the stern woman of the Cecil
Beaton portraits. It's her apple-
cheeked impersonator Audrey
Tautou who, instead of diffidence
and steely determination, merely
sulks, scowls and smokes her way
through Coco avant Chanel.
Woefully miscast in Anne
Fontaine's tepid biopic, Tautou is
indolent and peevish. She dresses
the part of garçonne, sure, but has see a movie about.
none of Chanel's mystique or brittle
charm. It's like expecting Meg
Ryan to be a good Bette Davis. It's Montreal and opens in Toronto on
beautiful to look at though, espe- Friday.
cially because Coco's well-worn
cotton shirts and mannish tweed
suits contrast nicely with the cour-
tesans who wear "too much of
everything." Next to her purity of
design, they're as ridiculous as
macaroons trussed in taffeta. Right
there onscreen is why Chanel's
close friend and memoirist Paul
Morand so aptly called her 19th-
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century style's "exterminating
angel."
In April, after a lifetime of star-
ing at her pictures in those Coco
ads of the '80s, I finally met model
Inès de la Fressange in person. It's
uncanny that she shares both
Chanel's coal-black eyes and
intense, unflinching gaze. Coco
avant Chanel had just opened in
France. What did she think? I
asked. The one-time Chanel muse's
answer was unnuanced, something
between a snort and a harrumph.
And in that moment, the Chanel of
my teen dreams was alive again.
The Coco of Karen Korbo's The
Gospel According to Coco Chanel,
or The Collection, Gioia Diliberto's
not-so-flattering historical novel
about Chanel's couture ateliers after
the First World War. The Coco of
that story is headstrong, demanding
and shrill. She's a nasty bitch in a
fabulous dress.
Now there's a woman I'd like to
Coco avant Chanel is playing in
829
Mademoiselle Chanel, born the designer at home. She transformed the interiors of the
Gabrielle, but indelibly nicknamed 18th-century building into Art
Coco, strode across the fashion But a visit to the elegant private Deco style. The porte-cochère dis-
stage of the 20th century as no apartment she established on the appeared, boiseries were removed
other, a veritable colossus of inven- Rue Cambon in the 1930s reveals or hidden behind walls of mirrors.
tion and reinvention. This year she that here among the dazzling “She created a very modernist
is striding across the screen in two Coromandel screens are the senti- decor, shocking at the time,” says
new films: In Coco Before Chanel, mental keys to what counted most Clermont-Tonnerre. On the ground
released in the US last week, for this extraordinary woman the floor, French interior designer Jean-
Audrey Tautou, the gamine French men she loved, the artists she Michel Frank decorated the couture
actress and new image of Chanel revered, the friends who influenced accessories boutique the first of its
No 5, recreates the designer’s early her taste. kindselling handbags, shoes,
career. Premiered at the Cannes gloves, hats, scarves and costume
Film Festival last spring, Coco How Chanel, whose couture pro- jewelry. The staircase, embellished
Chanel and Igor Stravinsky, with claimed her devotion to sophisticat- with a new wrought iron railing, led
Anna Mouglalis and Mads ed minimalism, accumulated this to the mirrored couture salon, a true
Mikkelsen, supposes a love affair decorative splendor is much of a galerie des glaces on the floor
between the couturière and the mystery, says Chanel external rela- above. The next floor up became
famed composer. tions director Marie-Louise de the private apartment where one
Clermont-Tonnerre. wall was covered with “a ravishing
Mademoiselle Chanel in her suite at burlap fabric she had painted in
the Hotel Ritz, 1937, with the The couturière bought the building gilded lead to give an effect like her
Stravinsky icon on the mantelpiece at 31 rue Cambon in 1920, moving flecked tweeds,” Clermont-
up the street from her original Tonnerre explains. “It was the most
The Chanel couture revolution ele- Chanel Modes shop at no. 21. By expensive thing to restore in 1983
gant, fluid clothes that liberated the then she was rich and famous; her when Karl Lagerfeld took over the
feminine form lives on into the 21st debt to her lover and business part- couture.” Above is Mademoiselle’s
century, updated, sometimes bril- ner Arthur “Boy” Capel had been studio, where Lagerfeld designs
liantly, by designer Karl Lagerfeld. repaid as her fashion business today. The top three floors housed
The more private Chanel lifestyle flourished during the First World the workrooms of more than 100
played a background role, traced War. “petites mains” (seamstresses), also
mainly through famous photos of still in place.

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But, still recovering from Capel’s
death in a car crash in 1919, the
designer didn’t move in quite yet.
Instead, she took a suburban villa,
Bel Respiro, just outside Paris in
Garches, which author and Chanel
confidante Edmonde Charles-Roux
describes in her book, L’Irrégulière,
ou Mon Itinéraire Chanel. “She had
her villa stuccoed in beige and its
shutters lacquered in black two
hues that made the entire neighbor-
hood frown.” But two very Chanel
hues that remained lifetime
favorites.
Then she surprised the neighbors
even more by filling the villa with
her artistic friends Jean Cocteau,
Igor Stravinsky, poet Pierre
Reverdy, painter Juan Gris. From
the moment she made money,
Chanel befriended, and often
financed, a coterie of artists. After
the Russian Revolution, when the
impoverished Stravinsky fled to
Paris, Chanel lent Bel Respiro to
the composer, his wife and four
children, and they stayed for three
years. After she met Serge
Diaghilev in Venice, she gave him a
check “beyond his wildest dreams”
for the Ballets Russes production of
Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring in
1920, and she swore him to secrecy
in an encounter that, as Charles-
Roux reports, was only revealed 50
years later.
Meanwhile, she decided to move
back to town, into the ground and
soaring first floors of a fabulous
townhouse built in 1719 for the
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Rohan-Montbazon family at 29 rue lover, the Duke of Westminster.
du Faubourg Saint Honoré. As When she moved to a simple bed-
Charles-Roux recounts, “Gabrielle room suite in the Cambon wing,
instinctively gravitated she installed her collections across
toward…the baroque taste of the the street in this apartment.
Serts (her best woman friend,
Misia, the beautiful muse of an “We know she was here by 1937,”
haute artistic milieu, and her talent-says Clermont-Tonnerre, showing
ed decorator/painter husband, José the photo of the designer in little
Maria). [She was] initiated by black dress and pearls perusing a
them, and discovered through them rare Indian book on her renowned
the main components of a decor she sofa of tan suede with its quilted
patiently made her own.” Her cushions. This contemporary ele-
scheme possessed “as much gold as ment is set into the baroque fantasy
at Misia’s, just as much crystal, but of gilded mirrors, a crystal and rose
more black accents…” quartz chandelier, a graceful pair of
19th-century Japanese bronze deer
Filling these high-ceilinged rooms and the omnipresent Coromandel
whose gilded panels she wished to screens in a very modern mix.
camouflage, Chanel began what
became her celebrated collection of When she discovered Coromandel
lacquered Chinese Coromandel screens, she claimed they made her
screens. They surrounded the “faint with happiness”, and she put
piano, itself the magnet for friends them everywhere, but often treated
from Diaghilev and his Ballets them like wallpaper. In the petit
Russes to Picasso who often stayed salon, she cut two doors leading
here. When she thumbed her nose into a bathroom into one of the
at the Great Depression in most beautiful screens of her col-
November 1932 with an exhibition lection, inset with motifs of fans.
of real diamond jewelry displayed
here (the ticket receipts were donat- “She entertained a lot here, but only
ed to charity), the New Yorker a few guests at a time, four or six at
described the scene, “among the the most,” says Clermont-Tonnerre
Coromandel screens and rose- of the dining room. Venetian mir-
quartz chandeliers which have rors, like the blackamoors in the
made Chanel’s home famous, if not entrée, perhaps recall her trip to
for its simplicity”. that city with the Serts to lift the
gloom after Boy died. Fantastical
Living in nomadic luxury, she took consoles supported by caryatids
some of this decor to the Ritz, to a representing goddesses or the sea-
grand suite overlooking the Place sons were bought at the auction of
Vendôme, where she lived first the possessions of another famous
with, and then without, her then muse, Marchesa Luisa Casati, in
831
1932. tels are easy reads. Chanel, born as determinedly as she had rein-
August 19, is a Leo, the lion her vented fashion.
Rather than clients, she invited astrological sign. Her long lost
friends: Cocteau, the Serts, love, Boy Capel, gave her the Today, the apartment is used for
Salvador and Gala Dalí, Luchino Buddha; designer and illustrator fashion soirées and the rare lunch,
Visconti who brought Romy Paul Iribe, another fiancé swept off as well as the backdrop for photo
Schneider, Cristobal Balenciaga, by death he collapsed on the tennis shoots. It continues to inspire
Hubert de Givenchy, Marlene court of La Pausa, her home in the Lagerfeld’s Chanel collections: the
Dietrich, Jeanne Moreau and south of France provided the Baroque dresses in 1987; the 2006
Marie-Hélène de Rothschild among bronze and crystal chandelier in the couture coats and tunics embroi-
others. petit salon. dered with Coromandel motifs,
requiring from 800 to 950 hours of
And although she adored artists, Many of the rare books that once Lesage embroidery. Another
she never collected their works. filled the bookcase belonged to beloved trinket, the tiny gilded and
“Paintings? Drawings?” queried another suitor, Pierre Reverdy. As jeweled birdcage enclosing two
Charles-Roux, “…no signed for Hugh Grosvenor, the 2nd Duke lovebirds, became the inspiration
objects, not one portrait and not a of Westminster, he was perhaps the for Jean-Paul Goude’s 1992 adver-
single painting by a master.” raison d’être for her collection of tising film introducing Vanessa
objects with wheat motifs “a sym- Paradis as the new muse for the
bol of fecundity because she want- perfume Coco.
The only exceptions are a minute ed to have a child (and heir for the
oil painting of a spear of wheat by duke),” suggests Clermont- If these possessions changed in
Dalí and a pair of andirons she Tonnerre. Along with Dalí’s stalk, a value and significance, “one
commissioned from sculptor gueridon table by Chanel costume remained very, very important,”
Jacques Lipchitz in 1921 to go with jewelry designer Robert Goossens says Clermont-Tonnerre, “the
a Louis XV rocaille fireplace. boasts a wheat sheaf base and real Russian icon Stravinsky gave her to
Lipchitz abandoned his Cubist lines wheat and sculpted wheat stand by thank her when he and his family
to sculpt a sinuous shell form of a the salon fireplace. left Bel Respiro in 1925.” As pho-
woman lying on a sofa. Both works tos prove, “she always kept it close
still decorate the apartment today. A slim bronze cast of a hand by to her.” In photos of the Ritz suite,
Diego Giacometti was a gift from it sits on the mantelpiece; here it is
But collect Chanel did. “Objects, writer Claude Delay, whose hand it placed above her 18th-century
yes. A perfect jungle of them. As is. Delay, who wrote Chanel desk. And when she died, as
mysterious as possible, objects seen Solitaire, published the book about Charles-Roux wrote, it was on her
nowhere else,” the author writes. In her friend only after the designer’s bedside table. Perhaps the love
the apartment, they beckon from death, as did Charles-Roux. affair isn’t supposition after all.
every surface and they all have Another friend, Louise de
tales to tell, or perhaps mysteries to Vilmorin, simply abandoned her Originally published in the June
conceal. own attempt to tell the story with 2009 issue of France Today.
even the barest trace of verisimili-
There are camels and frogs, but the tude in her Mémoires de Coco.
lions in marble, wood or gilded Once famous, Mademoiselle
bronze that prowl tabletops or man- Chanel simply reinvented her past

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When Jacques Polge was a boy his
mother would take him every year
to spend the long summer holidays
with a friend in Grasse, the centre
of the French perfume industry.
Polge, who is the master perfumer,
the 'nose’, of Chanel perfumes, can
still remember how wonderful it
was. 'From Cannes to Grasse to
Nice was all fields of flowers:
roses, violets, orange-blossom and
especially jasmine you could smell
the jasmine the moment you
reached Grasse,’ he says. 'You were
surrounded by flowers.’
Sophisticated and yet quirkily
individual, this Paris flat has
much in common with the fra-
grances its owner a legendary
perfumer has created over
the past 30 years. Elfreda
Pownall goes for a nose
Polge is standing in his
maisonette on the Left Bank in
Paris reminiscing, though these
days he is surrounded by beautiful
things of a different kind: paintings
and drawings from Vuillard to
Cecil Beaton, plasterwork lamps
and marble busts, shells and sculp-
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tures and books, books, books. The the university of Aix-en-Provence,
flat seems quirky, scholarly and and unsure what he wanted to do
cosy, but Polge denies any striving next, he answered an advertisement
for effect in his decoration. 'I like by an American perfumery firm
inventive, odd and interesting and got the job because he could
things, and if they’re all beautiful speak English. There followed an
they’ll go together, no matter what apprenticeship in the laboratory of
era they come from,’ he says. It’s a perfumer in Grasse, then some
usually a recipe for decorating dis- years in New York and Paris creat-
aster, but he has pulled it off tri- ing scents, among them the classic
umphantly. Rive Gauche in 1969. Then came
the call to the house of Chanel in
Under the curving staircase that 1978. Polge believes that almost
leads up to his bedroom and study anyone can be trained to be a 'nose’
is an extraordinary juxtaposition to if they start early enough, but few
prove his point: a wildly theatrical could invent a perfume. 'That is a
sofa and chair designed by Vietti in question of creativity,’ he says.
the 1950s, with deeply buttoned 'Many people can play the piano,
seats and scrolling serpentine arms but there is only one Alfred
covered in coral fabric, stands next Brendel.’
to a 19th-century Italian marble
funerary bust, a mirror from the set Polge has been the maestro at
of the 1997 film Quadrille, an ori- Chanel for more than 30 years,
ental rug and a witty screen inventing such glorious scents as
designed for Polge by the illustrator
Coco Mademoiselle, and he feels
Pierre Le-Tan, depicting perfume the hand of history on his shoulder.
and perfumery, with noses floating 'With No 5, which Mlle Chanel [he
among clouds of scent. always refers to her in this way]
created in 1921, a style of perfume
Polge arrived in the world of was established for the house of
scent by chance. At the end of his Chanel.
degree in English and literature at
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 It is my mission to reflect the Polge’s dining-room.
style she created, to enhance it, to
make it live today.’ And no expense They were made in the Côte
or trouble is spared. 'In 1921 Mlle d’Azur in the 1930s. 'Picasso had
Chanel had to use jasmine from lots of their rope chairs,’ he says.
Grasse for No 5, the only place they 'And I love them for being so sim-
grew it in industrial quantities and ple and unpretentious.’
where they had the expertise: every
petal must be picked by hand. In his work, as in his decora-
Jasmine grown elsewhere nowa- tion, Polge takes a simple ingredi-
days it’s grown in Calabria, Egypt ent that is perfect in its own way
and India has its own characteris- (hawthorn blossom, a seaside chair)
tics, but they are slightly different and transforms it into something
from the jasmine in Grasse and, to elegant and memorable by choos-
keep the perfume authentic, as she ing other objects or scents that will
first made it, we continue to have bring out its essence. And his
ours grown there.’ favourite among the scents he has
created? 'It is always the one I am
Polge’s latest creation, Beige, is working on at the moment. The
based on the honey-tinged scent of best perfume is always the next
hawthorn blossom, an old-fash- one.’
ioned flower whose time he thinks
has come. He got further inspira-
tion from Proust’s work A l’ombre
des jeunes filles en fleurs, where
glistening hedges of hawthorn play
a central role, and, in the packed
bookcases of his flat, there is a first
edition of the book. Many of his
books are about the artists whose
works he collects, mainly those
from the 1930s and 1940s. 'It’s an
era I love, though some of its artists
have been a bit neglected, unjustly I
feel people such as Bébé Bérard,
Michaud, Giacometti, Jean Hugo
but it means I can still afford to buy
their work. Not like the furniture of
that era Jean-Michel Frank is now
so expensive.’ That is less true of
the work of the little-known firm of
Audoux-Minet, whose trademark
rope-bound table and chairs furnish

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 HE MAKING OF THE CHANEL N°5 Vinci Code). Jeunet: I think I said something
T short film is an epic by adver-
tising standards as it took a month Following the films Amelie
like: “I’m pretty sure you’re going
to tell me to shove it, but I’ll try my
to complete. and The Long Engagement, this is luck anyway.”
the third collaboration between
When Chanel took over the Tautou and director Jean-Pierre Tautou: And then he went straight
number five, it forever changed its Jeunet. The star seemed the obvi- into the technical details: “We’re
status from being a mere numerical ous choice for the role as she por- going to take the whole crew, it’ll
figure to an iconic legend. The fra- trayed a young Coco Chanel in the be fun, everyone will be there ...
grance Chanel N°5 created by biopic Coco Avant Chanel as well, we’re going to travel, we’ll be
renowned perfumer Ernest Beaux, which was released in the United going to Istanbul, it’ll be great ...”
made its debut in 1921 and till States in April this year.
today, is still touted as “a woman’s Jeunet: At last we had this opportu-
fragrance that smells like woman”. Both the director and actress nity to produce the final episode in
talk about the making of the short our trilogy, it was something we’d
Tautou and director Jean-Pierre film and what transpired behind the been talking about for a while. And
Jeunet in a discussion during the scenes, in an interview transcript it is a real movie, it’s the world of
filming of the ad for Chanel. provided by Chanel. film-making, it’s not really just an
ad. It’s a film, and so it was a great
In a recent extravagant adver- Star quality: Tautou portrayed a opportunity.
tising splash, Audrey Tautou was young Coco Chanel in Coco Avant
announced as Chanel’s latest muse Chanel Audrey, how did you feel Jean-Pierre, why did you feel that
for N°5, taking over Nicole when you found out that Jean- Audrey, and not someone else,
Kidman’s role. The newest short Pierre Jeunet would be directing should be the Chanel N°5 woman?
film from Chanel Train de Nuit the film for this fragrance the fra-
depicts a mysterious ride on the grance for which you are now the For an actress to take on this type of
Orient Express where a handsome ambassador? role, where there is no dialogue,
stranger becomes addicted to there has to be a real intensity in her
Tautou’s scent at the first whiff. A Tautou: It all happened at once. It eyes. It is very difficult to get
combination of fate and chance was Jean-Pierre who phoned me to across emotions and intentions
leads to a romantic destiny in a talk about it. through nothing but the look in
chapel (reminiscent of The Da people’s eyes and in a very short

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space of time. I haven’t worked on up to you to do what you want with Tautou: I was surprised by the way
advertisements much it’s a very dif- it. So I’ll leave you to it but you in which Jean-Pierre succeeded in
ferent approach from the one you have to have, somewhere in your capturing sensuality on film.
would take with feature films. A mind, an idea of where this woman
character’s gaze has to be much is at in her personal life, so that it Jeunet: I was going to say the same
stronger, much more intense than isn’t just about making faces in thing. I was surprised by her sensu-
usual. front of a camera.” ality, even though I’d already seen
it in A Very Long Engagement, but
The iconic Chanel N°5 fragrance. I didn’t ask her what she had in only in brief moments, and here we
mind, I don’t even want to know if had to go much further. When you
Jean-Pierre, how has Audrey pro- she did have something in mind, make an advertisement, there’s a lot
gressed? You knew her when she but I think it was important to make of filming. It wasn’t that easy, and
was just starting out. the suggestion. yet she was extraordinary. It was a
real pleasure but also a nightmare
Jeunet: Yes, I knew her when she Audrey, what did you have in when we were doing the editing
had just begun acting. And I found mind? work. We had to choose which tiny
her even more professional her shots we wanted to use, and the
comments, the way she behaved I Tautou: Well you know, the thing choice was hard, since there were
could see it with The Da Vinci that I found the most tricky with so many wonderful ones.
Code, Stephen Frears. Everything this project is that I had to be or at
that she did between the two proj- least this is how I saw things some- In the film, there are no words. Is
ects, everything that she has done where between the person that I am that an additional challenge?
since. She had taken her profes- and the character that is revealed in
sionalism to an even higher level. a very short time frame. To a cer- Jeunet: It’s not much of a problem
She has a lot more confidence in tain extent, I gave in to chance and, for me, I enjoy doing long visual
herself. most importantly, believed in the sequences.
vision of Jean-Pierre, the world he
Tautou: It’s because we know each was creating, and the reasons why I What was the best moment for you?
other so well, we understand each was there with him.
other. We don’t need to use many Jeunet: There was a wonderful
words to know what the other per- Jeunet: I immediately told her that moment on the Bosphorus
son is thinking. There has always the approach, the pace, would be a (Istanbul), with the sun setting in
been something special about our little different from when you work the background. I had my crew
relationship we always agree and on a feature film, since the shots are with us and they all had these big
we feel the same way about the very short, of course, in advertis- smiles on their faces. We were all
work we are doing. ing. You have to condense the so happy to be working together
scene, and overplay things to a cer- again, after such a long time.
Did you work together on the char- tain extent.
acter of the N°5 Woman? Were you Tautou: That was the best moment
consulted, Audrey? Did you surprise each other? Did for me too: seeing everyone again,
you learn new things about each being with the crew, the atmos-
Jeunet: No, I said to her: “I think other? phere when we were filming, being
that with a small role like that, it’s in Istanbul. It was a luxurious and

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enriching adventure in many differ- missed opportunities that we still
ent ways. talk about years later, saying: “You
should have gone for it, it’s such a
Jeunet: There was an unforgettable shame.” And it leaves you with
moment, when a member of our regrets. This film covers that sub-
team saved the life of a Turk who ject, and it’s something that every-
had fallen into the water, at the port. one understands.

How long were you filming? Tell me about this handsome guy.

Jeunet: We took our time. Three Tautou: Travis Davenport, the

weeks of filming and almost an young man I worked with, is not an
entire week just to work on the light actor, and I find him remarkable in
effects. this film. It’s quite an achievement
to get across an emotion – and not
Do you have a favourite shot? only for a non-actor, but also in this
kind of context – and it’s a real suc-
Tautou: I think what most cess.
impressed me was the emotional
power of this short film. There was Jeunet: We were looking for a
never a time when I felt like I was young man who had a slightly fem-
shooting an advertisement. I always inine side to him and who would be
felt like I was telling a story and not capable of showing sincerity. It was
making an ad. Ah yes, there is a essential that people would not get
shot that I love, I thought the idea the impression that he was looking
was really great and I realised that for a one-night stand, but was real-
after the filming. It’s the shot when ly looking for the woman of his
I’m in the train cabin, with all the life. He captured all of that, he was
lights going past the windows, and really excellent.
the reflection of the bottle moving
around me on the cabin walls. I
thought to myself that lots of direc-
tors are going to be put out because,
once again, it was Jean-Pierre who
had the idea!

Jeunet: I really liked the “missed

encounter” moments, when one
door opens just as another closes,
because we’ve all experienced situ-
ations like that. Everyone is per-
fectly familiar with that kind of sit-
uation. Even I can remember

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 hanel N°5’s first appearance in
C a commercial was in 1953.
Then, in 1969, under the impulse of
Chanel’s artistic director Jacques
Helleu, the first scripted TV film
for N°5 was shot by Richard
Avedon in New York.
This was the beginning of
Chanel’s long-standing tradition of
exclusive film-quality commer-
cials. Actress Nicole Kidman
reportedly earned US$12mil
(RM42mil) for her three-minute
Chanel N°5 advert in 2004
In the 1980s, Ridley Scott pro-
duced his version featuring wide
open spaces and pared-down archi-
tecture. In 1993, Bettina Rheims
turned to Carole Bouquet to front
the fragrance. Other film directors
that have worked on N°5 include
Jean-Paul Goude, Gerard Corbiau,
Luc Besson, Baz Lurhmann and
now, Jean-Pierre Jeunet.
In conjunction with her success
in the film industry, Nicole Kidman Estella Warren was the face of
became the face of Chanel N°5 in Chanel N°5 in 1999.
2004. She starred in a campaign for
television and print ads with
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Rodrigo Santoro, directed by has been reinvented a few times
Moulin Rouge! director Luhrmann
to promote the fragrance during the
and since the original Parfum by
Ernest Beaux in 1921, there was the
holiday season. Eau de toilette by Ernest Beaux
(1924), Eau de parfum by Jacques
The three-minute commercial Polge (1986) and Eau Premiere by
produced for Chanel N°5 was said Jacques Polge (2004).
to have made Kidman the record-
holder for the most money paid per The N°5 flacon was considered
minute to an actor after she report- a 20th century icon and added to
edly earned US$12mil (RM42mil) the permanent collection at the
for the three-minute advert. New York Museum of Modern Art
in 1959.
Other muses for the fragrance
in the early years included Candice Of course, the most memorable
Bergen, Suzy Parker, Ali McGraw, fragrance story would have to be
Lauren Hutton, Jean Shrimpton, when actress Marilyn Monroe was
Cheryl Tiegs, Catherine Deneuve asked by a journalist in 1954 what
and Estella Warren. she wore to bed, and she replied,
“Just a few drops of N°5 ...”
The fragrance boasts ylang
ylang, neroli, aldehydes in its top
notes while may rose and jasmine
from Grasse form the middle notes,
which eventually rest on a base of
sandalwood, bourbon vetiver and
bourbon vanilla.
Through the years, the scent
838
 “COCO” CHANEL, the
G ABRIELLE
woman who gave us the little
black dress and designer perfume,
didn’t come from the most promis-
ing of origins.
The story of Chanel’s life
before she became famous is
told in Anne Fontaine’s film
Coco Before Chanel.
Born in a poorhouse in 1883
and deposited in an orphanage after
the death of her mother, she learned
to take care of herself from an early
age. France offered few opportuni-
ties for a girl with no money and no
family, so Chanel capitalized on
what she did have; beauty, determi-
nation and a sharply critical eye.
The story of Chanel’s life
before she became famous is told
in Anne Fontaine’s film Coco
Before Chanel. It begins with
Gabrielle (Lisa Cohen as a child,
Audrey Tautou as a young adult)
and her sister Adrienne (Inès
Bessalem, then Marie Gillain)
being unceremoniously dumped at
the orphanage. Through the pain
and hurt we can also see that the
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young Gabrielle’s attention is
drawn to the stitching on the nuns’
wimples. Jump ahead a few years
and Gabrielle and Adrienne are
performing in a music hall: a song
about a lost dog named Coco pro-
vides Gabrielle with the nickname
she will use for the rest of her life.
Socializing with the patrons is
part of the job and Coco attracts the
attention of the wealthy and cynical
Étienne Balsan (Benoît Poelvoorde
in a complex performance).
Realizing that the road out of
poverty requires attaching herself
to a man of means, Coco shows up
uninvited at Balsan’s country estate
and refuses to leave, virtually
demanding to be taken in as his
mistress. Adrienne has a similar
arrangement except that she
believes, at least at first, that the
major who supports her is also
going to marry her. Both sisters
realize that it’s far better to be kept
by one man, even if he hides you
out of sight and lets you know that
he can dump you back on the street
any time he feels like it, than to ply
your trade to anyone and everyone
as do the prostitutes in the music
839
hall they recently left.
While living with Balsan, Coco
attracts the attention of one of his
business partners, the Englishman
Arthur Capel (Alessandro Nivola),
known as “Boy.” Coco and Boy fall
for each other (notably the only
time she does not see her own cir-
cumstances clearly), but if you
think that romance will go any-
where I have a bridge to sell you:
Boy is marrying for money which
means Coco is out of luck. But first
he loaned Coco the money to set up
a shop in Paris and thus set her on
the path to becoming a world-
famous designer.
As an outsider Coco can see
how ridiculous the contemporary
conventions of women’s fashions
are: corsets restrict your breathing,
layers of cloth hide your figure,
huge hats to weigh down your head
and everywhere there is an excess
of decoration which destroys any
natural beauty you may possess.
Her first success is a simple
straw hat which the actress (and
former mistress of Balsan)
Emilienne d’Alençon (Emmanuelle would you expect given her cir-
Devos in a generous performance) cumstances? Without that tough-
wears to great effect on stage. ness she never would have been
able to share her gifts with the
Coco also adapts men’s cloth- world.
ing to suit herself, foreshadowing
the simplicity and elegance which
remain the leading characteristics
of the Chanel line. The film ends
with a montage of Coco’s rise to
fame, concluding with a stunning
scene of a seemingly infinite parade
of models descending a mirrored
staircase. It’s a perfect demonstra-
tion of what could be the guiding
principle of Chanel’s life: it’s not
where you start that counts but
where you finish. The fact that this
scene is almost a direct quote from
the 1969 musical Coco doesn’t
lessen its power.

The script (adapted by Anne

and Camille Fontaine from the
biography by Edmonde Charles-
Roux) adheres closely to biopic
conventions but is brought alive by
the magnetic performance of
Tautou with strong support particu-
larly from Poelvoorde and Devos.
Coco Before Chanel is also beauti-
ful to look at: production design by
Olivier Radot, cinematography by
Christophe Beaucarne, and cos-
tume design by Catherine Leterrier
beautifully evoke turn-of-the-cen-
tury France.

As viewed by director Anne

Fontaine Coco Chanel is not a lov-
able character: she’s hard as nails,
frequently rude and always looking
out for number one. But what

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 or single women, Chanel No. 5 Many of the women claim to The top 25 women's perfumes
F is the sweet smell of success.
The iconic Chanel No. 5 perfume
have scored as many as six differ-
ent dates on account of their per-
according to survey-takers were
ranked as follows:
was rated the most seductive scent fume. A quarter of the women say
by women, followed by perfumes they've been asked out by a new 1. Chanel No 5 by Chanel
from DKNY and Ghost. man, defined as a guy they didn’t
know, while wearing fragrance. 2. Be Delicious by DKNY
According to a survey of 3,000
women reported in London's Daily That may explain why 82% 3. Ghost by Ghost
Mail, Coco’s creation came out state that wearing perfume is an
tops when it came to getting a date absolute must when heading out for 4. Eternity for Women by Calvin
and then getting beyond it to an evening's pleasure with a man. Klein
boyfriend status.
More than half believe it's para- 5. Hugo Woman by Hugo
One in ten women even mount for a woman to have trade-
claimed they met Mr. Right while mark scent. Oddly, only 37% 6. Classique by Jean Paul Gaultier
wearing the iconic perfume. always buy the same perfume. A
small disconnect there? 7. Cool Water Women by Davidoff
Be Delicious by DKNY, close-
ly followed by Ghost by Ghost, Still a majority, 57%, are con- 8. Angel by Thierry Mugler
were credited as the next most vinced that the right fragrance
seductive scents in the poll carried helps them to pull in men and 22% 9. Anais Anais by Cacharel
out for Superdrug, a British beauty use their favorite perfume as a 10. Obsession by Calvin Klein
chain, according to the Daily Mail. "secret weapon," wearing it only on
dates. 11. Touch of Pink by Lacoste
While 85% of the women
reported they've been compliment- Then there is the unfortunate 23% 12. DKNY Delicious Night
ed by a guy on their perfume, two who've been told their perfume
thirds said a complete stranger stinks. 13. Miss Dior Cherie by Christian
remarked on how nice they Dior
smelled. That hurts.
14. 212 Sexy for Women by

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Carolina Herrera

15. Diamonds by Emporio Armani

16. Cerutti by 1881

17. Classic She by Emporio

Armani

18. Daisy by Marc Jacobs

19. Pure Poison for Women by

Christian Dior

20. Prada by Prada

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 ing increasingly popular and decid- ful actress.
A LL THOSE YEARS OF BUYING
CHANEL NO. 5 for my mom
and never once did I give a thought
edly non-frilly hats. But it was her
passionately reckless romance with In a way though, Tautou is fine
to there being a woman behind the English businessman Arthur ‘Boy’ for the role of Chanel or at least this
perfume or a story behind the Capel (Alessandro Nivola) that depiction of her. Chanel is a blank
woman. Coco Before Chanel imag- most sent her down a one-way canvas on which Balsan and Capel
ines what that story might have melancholy path. and fate create art. It’s like a varia-
been. tion on Henry Higgins’ transform-
Capel’s nickname is as descrip- ing of Eliza Doolittle into a high
As the title suggests, the movie tive as Chanel’s is aloof. He’s a liv- society woman in My Fair Lady.
relates how Gabrielle ‘Coco’ ing, breathing manifestation of the But both stories also suggest a
Chanel (Audrey Tautou of Amélie ‘bad boy’ archetype a boyish, irre- woman waiting just beneath the
and The Da Vinci Code) overcame sponsible, and deliriously irre- surface and wanting to be trans-
her life as an orphan and how she sistible man. He sweeps her off to formed, a woman Tautou never
earned her nickname ‘Coco’ while places that seem fantastical to her sees.
working as a somewhat sleazy orphan eyes and he makes love to
nightclub singer. her in one place after another with The movie is visually splendid
abandon. He’s a memorable rogue, with the kind of pastoral scenes of
From there, we see how she the best thing in the movie. the easy life that always make me
rode the broad shoulders of several wish I’d been so privileged and that
of society’s best men straight up to I’ve never been terribly enam- always leave me wondering what
the top of the staircase, reached ored with Tautou. When surround- these people who sit around all day
out, and grasped the prize. She ed by all of the fancy visual flour- reading books of philosophy do to
became the fashion icon we now ishes of Amélie, she managed to pay the rent. The movie makes
know. But it wasn’t without some effectively obscure that she’s a country lakes look especially intox-
heartache and tragedy. pretty-faced nothing. The Da Vinci icating.
Code then exposed her limited
A liaison with Baron Balsan range for all to see. Tautou tries to Tautou may not be the most
(Benoît Poelvoorde), a fatherly fig- cover the emotional emptiness by expressive actress around, but she
ure, allows her initial entrée into chain-smoking and it almost does have her moments during the
French society as well as a chance works. I’ve always loved the sight final minutes. There’s an emotional
to develop her penchant for design- of smoke swirling around a beauti- moment conveyed as much by the

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camera as by Tautou that, of course,
is inevitable when a young woman
is drawn too close to a bad boy’s
flame.

And then there is the ending,

one of the best I’ve seen in a great
while. Placed atop a staircase for all
eyes to admire, the new Coco
Chanel sits, her transformation
applauded by characters within the
movie. (Not much applause in the
theater when I saw it though. There
were only two of us.)

It’s a closing image that made

me really curious to see Coco After
Chanel which I understand has
something to do with Igor
Stravinsky. Hopefully though, it
will be without Tautou.

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It’s my action movie, director Jan
Kounen tells me. To prepare for
shooting the scenes we are dis-
cussing, he watched a battle
sequence from Lawrence of Arabia.
What he was getting ready to film,
however, wasn't combat, at least
not in any traditional sense. It was
the performance of a ballet. No
ordinary ballet, however. It was the
opening night of The Rite of
Spring, in Paris, May 29, 1913, an
extraordinary cultural moment of
chaos and confrontation.
Nijinsky's ballet, with music by
Stravinsky, provoked a riot. There
were boos, walk-outs, howls of
protest, some cries of support. The
noise from the audience became so
loud that it drowned out the orches-
tra, and Nijinsky had to stand in the
wings beating time for the dancers.
The background to all this demon-
strative passion is still debated. But
its significance is inscribed into his-
tory: it's a founding moment of
modernism.
The events of that night occupy the
first 20 minutes of of Kounen's
Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky.
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We see preparations backstage, we the time to compose.
sense the tension, we watch the
dancers on stage and the violent Chanel decided to become his
reaction of the audience. Kounen patron, inviting him and wife,
wanted to give that night weight. Katya, and their children, to stay at
There were, he says, things that her villa in the country. He was
really happened, such as a duel, that inspired to write and he and Chanel
didn't make their way into the became lovers. The patronage is
movie. He filmed this, he says, but historical fact, and it is generally
couldn't include it. It looked too accepted that they had a sexual
extreme, too unbelievable. relationship, although there is a
degree of speculation involved in
But then, after a scene that he pre- the movie's account. The book that
pared for as if he were shooting the it is based on, by English author
D-Day landings, everything and screenwriter Christopher
changes. The film becomes a cham- Greenhalgh, is not a biography, but
ber piece. We go from ''all that a novel.
craziness to three people in a
house''. Mads Mikkelsen, the Danish actor
who plays Stravinsky, was already
Coco Chanel was one of the figures attached to the project when
from Paris society who attended Kounen came on board. Mikkelsen
that Rite of Spring performance: we doesn't speak French or Russian
see her, at the beginning of the film, (the two languages he speaks in the
preparing. But it wasn't until 1920, film) and he couldn't play the piano
when she had become a rich, suc- (although this isn't obvious in the
cessful entrepreneur in her own movie).
right, that she and Stravinsky met.
And by that point, things were very His presence, the director said, was
different for him. He was penniless, one of the reasons for deciding to
desperate to find ways to support do the film.
his wife and children, and to find
845
Kounen had a hand, however, in Mouglalis when she began more of the entrepreneurial self.
choosing French actress Anna extensive research for the role.
Mouglalis to play Coco Chanel. It ''Even people who only met her for Alongside the books, memoirs and
was her strength that made her right five minutes wrote a book about biographies, we've recently had
for the role, he says, the impact of her.'' But what struck Mouglalis, Coco Avant Chanel, with Audrey
her rich, deep voice. reading biographies, was the extent Tautou, a TV mini-series with
of the contradictions, most of Shirley MacLaine, and several
Mouglalis, daughter of a Greek which came from Chanel's own respectful documentaries. But there
father and a French mother, had no accounts. She mythologised her is, of course, much more to be told
thoughts, growing up, of becoming past ''in a crazy way. Every book about Chanel.
an actress: she came from Brittany has a different story about her
to Paris to study literature. A childhood. There is a dark aspect to the way
chance encounter on the Metro with she lived her life in Paris during
a playwright and stage director led ''She's like an actress, she created a World War II, a tale of collabora-
her, in a roundabout way, towards character, herself.'' And in the '20s, tion (and more) that has been stu-
acting school. when Mouglalis is playing her, ''she diously avoided so far. It would
became the person she wanted to make, to say the least, quite a story.
She appeared in Chantal Akerman's be''. So playing the role involved
The Captive, then had a break- looking for emotional rather than Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky
through role in Claude Chabrol's historical truths. opens on April 15.
Nightcap, with Isabelle Huppert
and Jacques Dutronc, playing a For example, the film presents a
young pianist involved in a compli- fictionalised account of the origins
cated story of identity. She also of one of her most famous and prof-
worked with directors Arnaud itable creations, Chanel No 5. But
Desplechin and Philippe to Mouglalis, what's important is a
Grandrieux, and made several films sense of what the perfume might
in Italy. have meant to its maker it could
have been an elixir against death.
She already had a connection with
Chanel. In 2002, she was chosen as ''She wanted a persistent scent.
the face of a Chanel scent, Allure, There were so many absences in
and she's still associated with its her life; her mother, her sister, [her
promotions. Yet as far as she's con- lover] Boy Capel. She wanted the
cerned, the figure she is playing is scent to stay, to be very present, to
not a legend but an iconoclast. fight absence.''
''She's a punk,'' Mouglalis says. ''An
anarchist.'' And she's cheerfully And, somehow, this doesn't feel
sceptical about how much we can like the last time we'll see Chanel
know about the facts of her sub- on screen. There seems to be a
ject's life. ceaseless appetite for the story of
her inventions and reinventions.
There was plenty of material for She is emblematic of a certain view

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 orget about drooling over her
F original and elegant creations.
The only consolation is a little
glimpse of Coco Chanel’s visually
enchanting genius at the end of this
105-minute French film, director
Anne Fontaine’s first period biopic.
Directed by Anne Fontaine
Starring:
Audrey Tautou, Marie Gillain,
Benoit Poelvoorde, Emmanuelle
Devos and Alessandro Nivola
Based on the novel by French
Vogue’s former editor, Edmonde
Charles-Roux, which was pub-
lished in the mid-1970s, the film
chronicles the early life of this
iconic fashion designer.
Ironically, her start is devoid of
any glamour or glitz. Together with
her older sister Adrienne, they
were sent to an orphanage at a
monastery after their mother died.
The sensitive Gabrielle Chanel
longs to see her salesman father
again but to no avail. Life is hard.
She later works as a lowly seam-
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stress, who also sings with her sis- Midway through, Coco is
ter in a nightclub, where she gets involved in a tragic love affair with
the nickname Coco after a song the dashing and lovable Arthur
that she frequently performs. ‘Boy’ Capel (Alessandro Nivola),
one of Balsan’s associates.
After her sister takes off with
her lover, Coco is left to pursue her Along the way, Coco’s talent
dream as a singer, a plan that quick- for fashion becomes apparent, from
ly goes bust. Still, her moody crafting tasteful straw hats to cut-
charm attracts the attention of ting up men’s clothes to give it fem-
wealthy but crude racehorse owner inine simplicity. With a modernist
Etienne Balsan (Benoit and less-is-more approach, she cre-
Poelvoorde), who inadvertently ates a new statement in fashion dur-
becomes her sugar daddy, exposing ing a time when women over-
her to the high society lifestyle that dressed in conspicuous self-indul-
she would come to abhor. gence. Her designs would be cham-
pioned by Emilienne d’Alençon
Audrey Tautou, who plays the (Emmanuelle Devos), a famous
titular character, is perfect as the stage actress and another of
troubled future icon. Her big black Balsan's conquests.
haunting eyes and subtle perform-
ance convey strong emotions. Although Coco never meets her
Mostly stoic and moody, it is sur- prince charming, she perseveres
prising at how sweet and beautiful and finally has an opportunity to
Tautou can be when she smiles. move to Paris, where she sets up
what will grow into one of France’s
Vulnerable and tender, yet greatest fashion houses.
gutsy and determined, Tautou gives
a convincing performance as a Set early in the 19th Century,
woman who endures the painful Fontaine crafts a lush and detailed
realities of life, driven only by her environment for the drama. With an
steely inner strength to live. elegant title, the rags-to-riches
847
biopic has witty dialogue, a strong
feminist statement and a love trian-
gle setting that doesn’t employ typ-
ical clichés. It's worth watching.

In French with English subti-

tles. Visit my web site for more
details on screenings of other films
during the French Art & Film
Festival

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The scent of a man, that is Jacques Pic courtesy of Chanel during his long career with Chanel.
Polge, Chanel’s famous perfumer. How does the 67-year-old Polge
Polge, before the interview, had remember them all?
Here’s a bit of irony. The man who taken me on a short tour of the lab
is tasked with creating fragrances facilities. The place looked neat “When you start, you have to train
for the luxury House of Chanel and functional, but fragrance lin- your nose and your memory, and
since 1978, does not use perfumes. gered in the air. I was allowed to that’s really the base of it. You have
Jacques Polge said this in a matter- test out their perfume “bank” where to find a way of remembering.
of-fact way at his office at the various essential oils were When I started out, I had difficulty
Chanel laboratories in Paris last arranged. As I didn’t have any cof- remembering the smell of vetiver.
October. fee beans at hand to neutralise the One day, I made a connection with
smell after each sniff, pretty soon I the smell of vetiver with that from
“I don’t use perfume as I’m afraid it couldn’t tell the difference between the days of my youth spent with my
will interfere with the work I do. At them. grandparents in a farm in the South
the same time, I do smell of per- of France. In the autumn, they
fume because I usually work in an Chanel is one of only three brands would burn the leaves of the pla-
environment that is loaded with fra- in the world (the other two are Dior tane (plane) tree,” he explains.
grances,” said the distinguished and Hermes) that has a dedicated
nose of Chanel. person to create its fragrances. “When it rained these fires would
Polge is the third master perfumer, give out a smell similar to vetiver.
He has an impressive command of after Ernest Beaux (who created the There are no rules, everyone has to
English so no translator was neces- legendary N°5) and Henri Robert find his own way of remembering
sary. But, you do get the impression (of N°19 and Pour Monsieur fame). smells. For me it was by associat-
that he is translating what he wants He can be credited with many suc- ing them with my own memories.”
to say in English from French in his cesses Coco, Coco Mademoiselle
mind. and Allure (including Allure In a previous interview in GQ,
Homme) to name but a few. Some Polge said that while he has not
Unique ability: Jacques Polge, ‘the call him one of the greatest “per- kept count, he probably can identi-
nose’ of Chanel sniffing a paper fume composers” in the world! fy 3,000 different types of odours.
blotter tabs (mouillettes) to test a And in another interview, he admit-
fragrance. Surely the “nose” has been accost- ted that he loves the scent of vanil-
ed by all kinds of smells and odours la, dislikes the cloying scent of

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tuberoses and hates the pungent disappear very quickly, others are a precise idea I might end up with
odour of cheese (one can only moderately pleasant at the start but something really different. There
imagine what he has to put up with, they last very long. Once you have are no precise rules but then, it’s
when dining at French restaurants). done that for all the raw materials also not about mixing products by
then you will be able to make a chance,” he added.
He told me he loves the smell of air. compound that is pleasant at the
But, he doesn’t try to always deci- start.” Polge confessed that he does get
pher what he smells. “I live a life exhausted with all that “sniffing”
like everybody else. For instance, The start is important as most peo- around. “But the difference
when I go on vacation, I like going ple base their decision to purchase a between me and people who are not
to the mountains because there’s a perfume by how it smells in the noses is that when I am exhausted,
quality of air that you don’t find in beginning. the distinction is greater. So when I
Paris.” get tired, I stop and move on to
“I remember trying to imitate the something else.”
Unfortunately, sometimes certain very famous perfumes to examine
smells assail you whether you like how they are made. That helps you It appears the base oils for the fra-
it or not. He particularly detests the train your sense of aesthetic. When grances tend to be the same. Polge
smell of sweat. (I made a mental I started out, I tried to imitate explained that perfumers normally
note of that and was thankful that I Chanel N°5 and it was very diffi- have two options to find new
has earlier liberally doused myself cult. Now, of course, I know why,” scents. One is to take the common
with Allure before the interview!) said Polge, who after all, is now the products and distil them in such a
custodian of Chanel’s fragrance way that something unique is creat-
Polge grew up in the South of secrets. “What I like about per- ed. The other is to have scientists
France near Avignon and often vis- fumes is that it’s a form of poetry. analyse various raw materials in the
ited Grasse in the summer. In a When you wear a fragrance, then hope of discovering something
Vanity Fair interview, he said he you ‘see’ it and you use words and new.
grew up smelling the fragrance of images (to describe it). That, to me,
flowers. is poetic.” “For example, before the last World
War, we only knew six constituents
“Of course, my surroundings as a Polge takes what the noses present of jasmine but now, we know more
child led me to perfumery. We are to him and gives it a twist so that it than 200,” he said.
all influenced by our childhood. It’s reflects the Chanel brand and fash-
unconscious and instinctive,” he ion as “perfume follows fashion”. While it’s important to keep search-
said. When one creates a fragrance, he ing for new material, he said that
said, it has to start with an idea and it’s equally important to keep all the
After obtaning an arts degree in the idea is a smell. Various assays traditional raw materials. For
Aix-en-Provence, Polge went to are done to try and reach that fra- example, in the beginning of the
Grasse to learn his trade in the grance. year there’s bergamot, mandarin,
school run by the Master Jean lemon and orange. Chanel has its
Carles. The first thing he had to do “Sometimes, I don’t succeed and own production of rosa centifolia
was recognise different smells and sometimes, along the way I find (the French rose) in Grasse. The oil
the various properties attached to another scent that I didn’t think of of the rose comes mainly from
them. “Some are very pleasant but before. Sometimes, despite having Bulgaria and Turkey. These are the

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base for many fragrances, and scent of liberty, which is probably
hence, very important to the indus- the scent of the wind in the forest!”
try.

What’s even more important (and a

favourite of his) is N°5, not only for
Chanel but all perfumers over the
world. “It is the first couturier per-
fume and the perfume from where
everything started. ”

Among his own creations, he is

particularly fond of Coco
Mademoiselle (2001) which was
hugely successful and Égoïste pour
Homme (1990) which didn’t do as
well.

“When I joined Chanel, I decided

to recreate some of the fragrances
that Mademoiselle (Coco) Chanel
had created, One of them was Bois
des Îles, and found quite a lot of
sandalwood in the formula.
Sandalwood as the main character-
istic has never been used in a men’s
fragrance,” he explained.

Apparently, English-speaking men

were put off by the name because it
implied they were egoists.

The down-to-earth Polge is surely

no egoist himself. When asked
what he hoped his legacy would be,
he was surprised. “Never thought
of that. Well, I hope it’s not too
pompous to hope that the perfumes
I create will survive me.”

When asked what he thought the

scent of such a man like him should
be, he laughed and replied: “The

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Classic fragrances are making a
comeback, with sales of -perfumes
that evoke nostalgic memories
increasing by up to 50 per cent in
the past year. Why do perfumes
from our past have such a powerful
effect on us?
Roja Dove the ( THE PROFESSOR OF
PERFUME ) explains: ‘When we dis-
cover a scent we truly love, it will
have large numbers of - ingredients
within it that have positive, feel-
good associations. The scent itself
then becomes an odour which also
has positive associations, making
us feel safe, secure, happy and
well.’
As a new exhibition which cele-
brates the past, present and future
of perfumery opens today in
Harrods, we take the perfumed path
down memory lane to bring you the
top 20 classic scents.
Perfumed path down memory lane:
We bring you the top 20 classic
scents
Perfumed path down memory lane:
We bring you the top 20 classic
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
scents
Chanel # 5
From £ 59 ( 020 7493 3836 )
Marilyn Monroe’s favourite scent
and still the world’s best-selling
perfume.
In 1921, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel
wanted a perfume that would define
how women should smell. Perfume
designer Ernest Beaux was given
the task and, as the legend goes, on
his fifth attempt Coco Chanel
approved the scent, so it became
No 5.
And from this scent was born the
idea of applying perfume to the
wrists, behind the ears and the
neck, as Coco Chanel believed
women should wear perfume where
they would be kissed.
852
What is the scent of masculinity? and give new interpretations of dalwood, vetiver and cedar.
Jacques Polge, Chanel’s master masculinity in this era.
perfumer attempts to answer this in It also introduces three new notes -
his latest creation - Bleu de Chanel That masculinity, according to bitter grapefruit notes; modern dry
the first men’s scent since Allure Polge, refers to a man who is all cedar that is the result of new
Homme Édition Blanche two years about being free, is determined, research; and a ginger note that is
ago. who defies conventions, assumes quite unique to Chanel.
his choices and is driven by action.
Polge said in an interview with The top notes are a citrus accord of
StarTwo late last year that whenev- “A man in control of his destiny, orange and lemon, followed by
er he creates a fragrance for men or who doesn’t let others dictate his bursts of peppermint, pink pepper,
women he asks this question: “How behaviour,” he exclaims. nutmeg and vetiver. The middle
much of the women’s (scent) am I notes are headed by dry cedar
going to incorporate in a men’s fra- Chanel has engaged the services of notes, grapefruit and labdanum.
grance and vice versa?” no less a director than Martin The base notes are sandalwood,
Scorcese (the celebrated director of frankincense and ginger.
He said that in the early days of opuses such as Raging Bull, Taxi
perfumery there was a clear and big Driver, Goodfellas and New York, Defying convention: Martin
difference between men’s and New York). Scorcese (left) directing French
women’s perfumes but this distinc- actor Gaspard Ulliel in the Bleu TV
tion has blurred somewhat in recent Up and coming French actor commercial.
times. Every brand has a gender Gaspard Ulliel features in the com-
association and while Chanel as a mercial shot in New York. Pics courtesy of Chanel
group is quite feminine, the men’s
fragrance has become quite impor- Bleu is about mixing the traditional Polge sees Bleu as being different
tant. “Men were afraid of fra- with new ingredients. This is repre- because for him, men’s fragrances
grances because it was thought to sented by a new olfactory family, these days have “frills” which is
be feminine. Now men are more the woody aromatic which has oriental or slightly floral, whereas
comfortable but are still looking for
never been represented in any of this is direct and pure.
masculine fragrances.” Chanel’s men’s fragrances until
now. Woody notes are Polge’s Bleu de Chanel EDT spray is priced
Polge fashioned Bleu to represent favourite for men’s fragrances: san- at RM178 (50ml) and RM250

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(100ml). There’s also an after-
shave lotion (RM174) and deodor-
ant spray (RM90). Available at
Chanel’s boutique in 1 Utama,
Petaling Jaya and Chanel counters
nationwide.

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 HERE HAS BEEN, perhaps, no Chanel's legendary in-house per- In our industry, we always use
T better launch of a men's fumer or "nose"for 32 years.
cologne than Chanel's landmark
code names while working on fra-
grances. For example, I have a bot-
Egoïste in 1990. A Chanel executive once told tle here named Carla. It has nothing
me that of all the fragrances you've to do with Mrs. Sarkozy. It is a new
Not only were its gender-bend- created at Chanel, Egoïste is your variety of lavender. So at the time,
ing scent and provocative name favorite. Is that true? in the eighties, I was working on a
immediately, and forever, etched in men's fragrance that we called
our collective memory ( particular- Yes, it's true, it's my favorite. It Black Wood. Chanel's then-CEO
ly in France ), but who could forget was so new and singular and still is. had said that if we were to launch a
Jean Paul Goude's gorgeously camp men's fragrance, we should also
TV commercial, with its over-the- How did the adventure start? launch a menswear line. Ultimately,
top Prokoviev soundtrack and hys- they dropped the menswear idea, so
terical women shouting from bal- What happened was, I found an he decided to cancel the fragrance.
conies? old formula by Ernest Beaux ( cre- But some of us really liked it, so we
ator of N°5 ) of a women's fra- said, “We're still going to launch it.
Citing the 17th-century French grance called Bois des Iles, which Only, it will be exclusively avail-
playwright Pierre Corneille, this is is exclusively sold in Chanel stores. able in our flagship stores.” We
what they so plaintively, melodra- There was a high content of sandal- called it Bois Noir.
matically cried out ( translated ): wood in it. We were used to such
scents as fougères in men's fra- It still wasn't called Egoïste?
"Egoïste, where are you? Stop grances, but sandalwood had never
hiding, selfish man! Watch my ire! been used as the main note in a No. But when you put fra-
I will be implacable! O anger! O male perfume. Egoïste is built grances in stores, there is always a
despair! You betrayed my love. around that. There is also some fan base. And people loved Bois
Have I lived simply to know this ambrette seed in it. Noir. There really was a buzz
infamy? Show yourself! Egoïste!" around this perfume. So we decided
What about the name? Egoïste, to launch it for a wider audience.
As the fragrance marks its 20th which means selfish in English, is The marketing people said Bois
anniversary this year, we wanted to perhaps not the easiest way to mar- Noir wasn't a good name, so they
know more about its genesis and its ket a fragrance. chose Egoïste instead. There was
genius creator, Jacques Polge, this beautiful photography maga-

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zine called Egoïste, which was Americans have changed the fra- couturiers. Now everything is dif-
done by Nicole Wisniak. We called grance business, making it more ferent, but I think a lot of houses are
her and bought the rights to use the sanitized? catching up with that tradition
name for the fragrance. again.
Yes, indeed. You know, I started
Then there was the fabulous my career in the United States.
commercial. Perfumes were then made of both
good-smelling and bad-smelling
Yes. Jean Paul Goude made this ingredients. But the bad-smelling
very strong commercial, which ingredients, when used in a certain
played a major role in the fra- way, brought something sensual
grance's fame. Yet, despite all the and interesting to the final scent.
exposure, the fragrance didn't sell The first time I arrived at work,
that well, especially in America. they told me, “You want to work
We had expected more success with here? Then smell this.” They made
it. So we launched Egoïste me smell chives. With American
Platinum in 1994, which was a puritanism, all these kinds of fra-
more classic scent, and it was a grances disappeared.
much bigger hit. But I am still very
glad we did Egoïste. I think it's What is the inspiration behind
important for a brand to have a fra- Bleu, your new men's fragrance,
grance that shakes things up. You which has just hit stores?
know, the men's market is very par-
ticular. I know we went far with Bleu is the opposite of Egoïste.
Egoïste, but I like it. It was good for Egoïste was inspired by a woman's
Chanel. Brands today maybe don't fragrance, whereas there is nothing
have the courage that they used to. feminine about Bleu. I wanted to do
something very direct. You know,
You once said fragrances were men's fragrances are still very
divided into two groups, those for linked with shaving. When I find
cleanliness and those for sex. myself in planes, at some point I
Where does Egoïste lie? always see those business men
coming from the bathroom
Definitely in the sex part. smelling of aftershave. So Bleu is
Egoïste is about seduction. I have a spicy, woody, and dry. There is no
funny anecdote about sex and fantasy.
smells. An American woman once
asked me if French people took In the decades you've been a per-
showers before or after sex. I fumer, what changes have you
answered, “After, of course.” noticed?
( Laughs ).
There used to be this special
Speaking of America, you've said relationship between perfumers and

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'Those on whom legends are built
are their legends,' declared Coco
Chanel to her friend Paul Morand,
one of several writers to whom she
tried, and failed, to tell the story of
her life. 'People's lives are an enig-
ma,' she said to another friend,
Claude Delay, not long before her
death.
Part I
'I don't like the family,' she also told
Delay. 'You're born in it, not of it. I
don't know anything more terrify-
ing than the family.' And so she cir-
cled around and about it, telling and
retelling the narrative of her youth,
remaking history just as she remade
the sleeves of a jacket, unfastening
its seams and cutting its threads,
and then sewing it back together
again.
The official record shows that her
mother, Eugénie, gave birth to
Gabrielle on 19 August 1883 in the
poorhouse in Saumur, a market
town on the river Loire. Eugénie
(known as Jeanne) was 20, Chanel's
father Henri-Albert (known as
Albert) was 28, and listed as a
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
marchland, or merchant, on was not necessarily an accurate
Gabrielle's birth certificate. They diagnosis of what killed Jeanne;
were not yet married but already poverty, pregnancy and pneumonia
had one daughter, Julia, born less were as likely to blame. In Chanel's
than a year previously. account to Delay, the family lived
in a large enough house for the chil-
Gabrielle Bonheur, a nun in the dren - two boys and three girls - to
hospice where Chanel was born, be kept in isolation from their sick
was made her godmother, and so, mother. In fact, they were crowded
according to Chanel, 'I was bap- with her into one room in the rail-
tised Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel'. way town of Brive-la-Gaillarde, on
Gabrielle she stayed throughout her the main line from Paris to
childhood Coco was a creation that Toulouse.
came later although she invented a
story that is revealing in its After their mother's death Albert
untruths: 'My father used to call me took the children to Aubazine, and
"Little Coco" until something better there he abandoned them. Her
should come along,' she told brothers were left with a peasant
Marcel Haedrich (editor-in-chief of family and the three girls were
Marie-Claire). 'He didn't like [the handed over to the nuns who ran an
name] "Gabrielle" at all; it hadn't orphanage within the abbey walls.
been his choice.' At times Gabrielle
declared Coco to be an 'awful' Chanel lived here until she was 18,
name; and yet she was proud of its as did her sisters. One of them,
recognition throughout the world, Julia, fell pregnant here in mysteri-
evidence of her indisputable pres- ous circumstances; a nominal
ence. father was found to give the baby
boy a name on his birth certificate
Her mother figures only as a shad- he was registered as André Palasse
owy invalid in Gabrielle's memo- but when Julia died the boy was left
ries. Chanel was to claim that her an orphan.
mother died of tuberculosis, which
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Chanel seldom referred to her elder Adrienne and Gabrielle as shop amusing.' She did, however, men-
sister; on the occasions she did, her assistants and seamstresses in a tion the name of a cavalry officer,
remarks were contradictory. 'She draper's store on the rue de Etienne Balsan, who around this
only loved the convent,' she told l'Horloge, which sold trousseaux time was to become her lover.
Delay, yet also claimed that Julia and mourning clothes to the local
had loved her husband, that she gentry, as well as layettes for new- There are many mysteries in the
killed herself by slitting her wrists born babies. The girls shared an myth of Coco Chanel, but few more
when she discovered that he had a attic bedroom above the shop, and perplexing than her years with
mistress. Whatever the true circum- also worked at the weekends for a Etienne Balsan at Royallieu, a for-
stances of André's birth, Chanel nearby tailor, altering breeches for mer abbey in Compiègne where he
took on her six-year-old nephew cavalry officers. It was there that kept a racing stable. Balsan never
and brought him up as her own (she Gabrielle and Adrienne were spot- gave away her secrets, however
chose not to keep him in Paris with ted by half a dozen men, who start- often he was questioned in later
her, but sent him to be educated at ed taking them out to La Rotonde, a life, when Chanel was far more
an English boarding school). pavilion in a park in Moulins, famous than him. In the drama of
where concerts were held for audi- Chanel's life, Balsan has been cast
People used to speculate about ences from the local barracks. as a rich playboy, the roué who
André's origins, as they still do. introduced the little orphaned
Even now, if you talk to the elderly They were rowdy affairs a combi- seamstress into the decadent world
lady who lives in a house across the nation of music hall and soldiers' of the Belle Époque, deflowering
road from the abbey, you might saloon - but Gabrielle was deter- her in an unsentimental education.
hear another story, that the baby mined to start singing on stage, and While there may be some truth in
was Gabrielle's, not Julia's. 'That's eventually found a regular slot. She this portrait, Chanel also used
what I heard,' she says, 'but who had only two songs in her reper- Balsan as a stepping stone from
knows if it is true?' toire: 'Ko Ko Ri Ko' (its refrain was Moulins to Paris.
the French version of 'cock-a-doo-
When Gabrielle turned 18 she left dle-doo') and 'Qui qu'a vu Coco? ', The two of them continued to be
the nuns at Aubazine, who kept on a ditty about a girl who had lost her friends until his death in 1953, and
only those girls with a religious dog. Soon the audience greeted her if their initial sexual relationship
vocation to join the order's novi- with barnyard cockerel calls, and had been characterised by his infi-
tiate. She was sent to the Notre christened her with the name of the delities, Balsan nevertheless dis-
Dame school in Moulins, a reli- lost dog. Thus Gabrielle became played a lifelong loyalty to Chanel.
gious institution run by canonesses Coco. He remained unmarried, apparently
where her aunt Adrienne only a unrepentant and unfailingly dis-
year older than her was already Chanel never talked about this creet.
being educated. At the school she episode of her life, other than to
was given further instruction in deny it to Paul Morand, dismissing It was while at Royallieu that
how to sew, which had already it as foolish legend, along with the Chanel met Boy Capel. His name
formed a substantial part of her other stories in circulation: 'that I was Arthur Capel, but his friends
education at Aubazine. have come up from goodness called him Boy. Boy's origins were
knows where; from the music hall, swathed in romance, and he came
The Mother Superior at Notre the opera or the brothel; I'm sorry, to Paris amid murmured specula-
Dame found employment for for that would have been more tion that he was connected in some

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mysterious way to the British aris-
tocracy through the Capell family;
or that he was the illegitimate son
of a rich French father, possibly a
Jewish financier. The more prosaic
version is that he was exactly who
he said he was: the son of Arthur
and Bertha Capel, raised with two
sisters in a prosperous Catholic
family whose money came from
coalminers in the north of England.
Capel was also an accomplished
playboy and polo player, sharing an
enthusiasm for fast horses and pret-
ty women with his friend Etienne
Balsan.
It was 1909, and Chanel was 26,
just under two years younger than
Capel; though she told Claude
Delay that Boy called her 'my dear
child' when she declared that she
was leaving Balsan for him. She
held out the letter she had written to
Balsan to explain her decision - 'My
dear Etienne, I shall never be able
to repay the kindness and comfort
you've given me while I've been
with you.' Boy wouldn't listen to
her, wouldn't allow her to leave, but
she followed him, and dashed on to
the train with her suitcase. Three
days later Balsan arrived in Paris;
jealousy had made him realise that
he loved her after all.
Many years later, confiding in
Marcel Haedrich, Chanel said that
she went on seeing Etienne Balsan
after she left Royallieu, and he con-
tinued to declare his love for her.
'We lunched and dined together,
Etienne, Boy and I. Occasionally
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Etienne talked about killing him- the society ladies or the cocottes or
self, and I wept. I wept so! "You couturiers. (Paul Poiret, whose
aren't going to let Etienne kill him- fame at the time was such that he
self," I said to myself. "You'll set dubbed himself the King of
them both free. Go throw yourself Fashion, said of Chanel's early days
into the Seine!"' Other, less torrid as a milliner, 'We ought to have
versions give more emphasis to been on guard against that boyish
Etienne and Boy's financial discus- head. It was going to give us every
sions about who should pay what to kind of shock, and produce, out of
keep Chanel. its little conjuror's hat, gowns
and coiffures and jewels and bou-
Eventually, after protracted negoti- tiques ').
ations, Balsan and Capel agreed to
share the cost of setting her up in Chanel's business was growing, and
business to sell the hats that she she began to sell clothes, as well as
was already making for herself, and hats. But for all the outward suc-
for her friends (and their girl- cess of her designs - and the impec-
friends). Capel covered the running cable surface that she presented to
costs; Balsan provided the Paris the outside world - inside some-
premises. thing was troubling her. 'I often
fainted,' she told Haedrich. 'I had
Coco dressed like a young convent too much emotion, too much
girl or a schoolboy, and made hats excitement, I lived too intensely.
that were stripped of embellish- My nerves couldn't stand it.' When
ments, of the frills and furbelows she worked, she said, her health
that she dismissed as weighing a recovered; and although she never
woman down, and being too cum- admitted it, the House of Chanel
bersome to let her think straight. seemed to give her more stability -
They weren't entirely original at a sense of where she stood in the
first, she bought simple straw world - than she gained from Boy
boaters from the Galeries Lafayette Capel.
department store, and then trimmed
them with ribbon but they were Hence the story she often told of
chic. 'Nothing makes a woman look her distress at discovering that
older than obvious expensiveness, Capel had deposited bank securities
ornateness, complication,' she said as a guarantee for her business and
to Claude Delay in old age, still overdrafts, and that the money she
wearing the little straw hats of her believed she was making had not
youth. 'I still dress as I always did, yet repaid her debt.
like a schoolgirl.' And in doing so,
Coco began to edge her way to the On the evening he told her this,
centre of attention, elbowing past they had been on their way to din-
her rivals and competitors, whether ner in Saint-Germain; she immedi-
859
ately insisted that they return to the
apartment they now shared in Paris.
'I felt sick,' she told Morand.
'Impossible to eat I began to hate
this well-brought-up man who was
paying for me. I threw my handbag
straight at his face and I fled.' The
following morning, she told
Morand, she went back to rue
Cambon at dawn. '"Angle," I said to
my head seamstress, "I am not here
to have fun, or to spend money like
water. I am here to make a for-
tune."'
A year later Chanel was earning
sufficient money to have no more
need of Capel's financial support,
and she rejoiced in her independ-
ence. Her clothes looked simple
sleek and fluid, designed to be
worn without corsets and with
insouciance - and she sometimes
gave the impression that her suc-
cess as a designer had come as eas-
ily as slipping on a cardigan.
The rewards were considerable, for
her work, like her clothes, liberated
Chanel from other constrictions. 'I
was my own master, and I depend-
ed on myself alone,' she told
Morand. 'Boy Capel was well
aware that he didn't control me: "I
thought I'd given you a plaything, I
gave you freedom," he once said to
me in a melancholy voice.'
Even so, the House of Chanel still
linked them together; for in some
unspoken way they had set it up as
partners. There was no business
contract to bind them together, just
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as there was no marriage certifi- with I trimmed it bit by bit. Finally,
cate, but it nevertheless joined I wore it short.' When people asked
them, as the double C logo seems to her why, she answered, 'Because it
suggest; Chanel and Capel; over- annoys me. And everyone went
lapping, but also facing away from into raptures, saying I looked like
each other. "a young boy, a little shepherd".
(That was beginning to become a
A few months before the end of the compliment, for a woman.)'
war in July 1918, an aristocratic
beauty named Diana Wyndham Chanel gave a different, and more
wrote a letter to her friend Duff detailed version of that radical hair-
Cooper, from Beaufort Castle in cut to Claude Delay. Her story
Scotland. 'Dearest Duff,' she wrote, started with a trip to the opera with
'Lots of things have happened since friends. She was dressing for the
I saw you - I've been ill, we've near- evening. 'I'd never been to the
ly lost the war, and I think I'm Opera before. I had a white dress
going to marry Capel after all - so made by my own modistes. My
next time I see you, you'll be stay- hair, which came down below my
ing with me in my luxurious apart- waist, was done up round my head
ment in the avenue du Bois.' If in three braids - all that mass set
Diana was not yet pregnant with straight upon that thin body.' She
Capel's child when she wrote to had so much hair, she said, that it
Duff Cooper, she would have been was 'crushing me to death'; but fate
soon afterwards, given the birth of intervened, and gave her freedom.
her first baby the following April. 'There was a gas burner in the bath-
room. I turned on the hot tap to
In later life Chanel did not discuss wash my hands again, the water
her lover's marriage to Diana; in wasn't hot, so I fiddled with the
fact, she barely acknowledged that pilot-light and the whole thing
it had taken place. She already exploded. My white dress was cov-
knew that he had other women, ered in soot, my hair - the less said,
other mistresses, and perhaps she the better. I only had to wash my
understood that nothing would face again - I didn't use make-up. In
come of his earlier promises that those days only the cocottes used
she would be his wife. make-up and were elegant. The
women of the bourgeoisie weren't
While Arthur Capel had been groomed - and they wore hats that
searching for an aristocratic wife, flopped all over the place, with
Chanel made herself look like a birds' nests and butterflies.'
boy: breastless and hipless and
shorn of the conventions of wom- But nothing was going to stop her
anhood. 'In 1917 I slashed my thick from going out that night, not even
hair,' she said to Morand; 'to begin her burned hair. 'I took a pair of
860
scissors and cut one braid off. The
hair sprang out at once all round my
face. In those days I had hair like
sable.' Undaunted, she cut off the
second braid, and then told her
maid to cut off the third; the girl
began to cry, but Chanel didn't care
or, at least, she said she didn't care
about the loss of her hair, or of the
soot-stained white dress. 'I slipped
on a black dress I had, crossed over
in front what a marvellous thing,
youth and caught in at the waist,
with a sort of minaret on top.' With
bobbed hair and little black dress
Chanel was neither slave girl nor
wife, but something of her own
making. Everyone at the opera was
looking at her, she told Delay.
'When I got back that evening the
maid had washed my hair and my
braids were waiting for me in the
bathroom like three dead bodies.'
Thereafter, whenever designing a
new fashion collection, she cut off
her own hair.
On the wild western edge of
Scotland, not far from Cape Wrath,
a river runs through heather-cov-
ered hillsides, towards the dark
waters of Loch Stack. It is as
remote a place as any in Europe.
Comprising over 100,000 acres, the
Reay Forest estate was leased by
the 1st Duke of Westminster in
1866 from his father-in-law, the
Duke of Sutherland, and bought
outright in 1920 by his heir, the 2nd
Duke of Westminster (known as
Bendor, after his grandfather's
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Derby-winning stallion). ed through marriage, for after the
death of Winston's father, Lord
On a summer's afternoon, the pale- Randolph Churchill, his mother had
grey sky reflected in the quiet pools married Bendor's brother-in-law,
of the River Laxford, it seems unas- George Cornwallis-West, in 1900.
sailably distant from Paris. But in
the fishing records of the Reay Thus Churchill had been a frequent
estate office, there are leather- visitor to Bendor's houses on the
bound volumes containing pages Sutherland estate - Stack Lodge,
that mark the visits of beside the River Laxford, and
Mademoiselle Chanel to the river, Lochmore, a granite mansion over-
and her considerable success as a looking the loch - and it was from
fisherwoman. The first date her Stack that he wrote to his wife,
name appears is 27 May 1925; Clemmie, in early October 1927:
according to the records, she caught 'Coco is here in place of Violet. She
a 9lb salmon in the Duke's pool. A fishes from morn till night, & in 2
few days later, on 1 June, months has killed 50 salmon. She is
Mademoiselle Chanel had landed a vy agreeable - really a gt & strong
bigger fish over 12 lb, and half a being fit to rule a man or an
pound heavier than the salmon Empire. Bennie vy well & I think
caught that day by her host. As the extremely happy to be mated with
summer progressed, so did an equal - her ability balancing his
Mademoiselle's fishing skills; she power.'
was on the River Laxford and Loch
Stack throughout June, July and Coco Chanel had first met the Duke
August, reeling in salmon and sea in Monte Carlo at the end of 1923.
trout. Over 6ft tall, heavily set, and
weather-beaten from sailing and
Two years later, in 1927, after shooting, but still handsome at 44,
Chanel had enjoyed a third summer Bendor was hugely attractive to
of fishing with the Duke of women, without being particularly
Westminster on the Laxford, sophisticated. He was the richest
Winston Churchill joined them for man in Britain, with an income
a week at the end of September. reputed to be a guinea a minute.
Churchill's friendship with Bendor
(whom he called Bennie) was long- Chanel's lover at the time was the
standing, and they had remained Grand Duke Dmitri, who was
close throughout the Duke's two dependent on her financial support.
marriages (to Shelagh Cornwallis- But as was clear from her very first
West, from whom he had separated dinner with Westminster, her sub-
in 1913, and Violet Nelson, his wife stantial wealth was entirely
from 1920 to 1924). Indeed, eclipsed by his. For here was a
Churchill and the Duke were relat- man, like Boy Capel before him,
861
who could provide her with
absolute financial security, even if
she chose not to accept it, yet
whose fidelity could never be guar-
anteed.
Chanel's hesitation, for several
months, before embarking upon an
affair with the Duke is suggestive,
among other things, of her uncer-
tainty when faced with this com-
plex equation of loss and gain, or
the unanswerable question of
whether love, like money, could be
counted upon. In the end, she told
Claude Delay, she favoured
Westminster over Dmitri 'I chose
the one who protected me best' but
she could never fully trust either.
There were good reasons not to do
so both men were incorrigible
womanisers and yet perhaps there
was something in their lack of com-
mitment that was familiar to her.
By the spring of 1924, Coco and
Bendor were an item: he was seen
at rehearsals for Le Train blue, the
Ballets Russes production for
which she had designed the cos-
tumes; and she joined him for cruis-
es aboard his yacht, the Flying
Cloud.
At Eaton, his estate in Cheshire, she
slipped into the role of chatelaine
with the same ease as she wore her
silk fringed evening gowns, in sap-
phire blue or black, designed so as
not to crease when they were
packed for travelling. She rode and
hunted at Eaton and accompanied
Bendor to the races; and after he
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bought another Scottish mansion, Europeans, nor did she invent its
Rosehall, in 1926, she decorated it associated fashions. But as was
with her usual style. often the case in her career as a
designer, she was quick to distil its
As it happened, Chanel was also essence, absorbing it into her own
incorporating something of style, and selling it to customers
Scotland into her new designs. At eager for her clothes.
Lochmore, she borrowed Bendor's
clothes, making his tweeds her Salvador Dalí and his wife were
own, and wearing them with a frequent visitors, as was Churchill,
panache not usually associated with although he holidayed at the villa
traditional sporting garb. Having more often after its sale to Emery
adopted the Duke's wardrobe, she Reeves, his literary agent, in 1953.
then started sourcing fabrics from a
Scottish tweed mill, and turning But the angry sound of arguments
them into her characteristically soft between the Duke and Chanel
little jackets and suits. Something began to disturb the peace of La
of the same process occurred dur- Pausa, waking up the other guests
ing her stays in Eaton, where she in the night; and when she joined
was inspired by the striped waist- him on the Flying Cloud the rows
coats of Bendor's liveried footmen continued, always about his infi-
and butlers, transforming them into delities and her humiliation. Once,
what became known to readers of when Bendor tried to make amends
Vogue and Harper's Bazaar as for an affair that Chanel had dis-
'Chanel's English Look', which also covered by giving her a large emer-
included the loose woollen cardi- ald, she accepted it from him, and
gans that she herself wore with the then, without a word, let it slip from
yards of real pearls that the Duke her hands overboard into the sea.
gave to her, a new rope for every
birthday, and many others besides. By the end of 1929 it was clear that
Bendor was determined to find a
If the Duke of Westminster reigned new wife who could bear him a
over Eaton and Lochmore, and set son. At 46, Chanel still looked
the course of journeys aboard his remarkably youthful it is likely that
yachts, there was one place that the Duke believed her to be
Chanel could call her own, where younger than she was and their
he would be her guest. La Pausa affair was not yet over. But Bendor
was entirely her creation, a graceful took little time in proposing to a
villa on the French Riviera. young Englishwoman, Loelia
Ponsonby. They were engaged just
Chanel was by no means the first to before Christmas, and married in
arrive in the Riviera colony of February 1930; not that this got in
bohemian Americans and the way of his seasonal visit to the
862
Riviera. rather at a disadvantage, on a stool ( Harper Collins, £ 25 ).
at her feet feeling that I was being
Lobelia's subsequent memoir, looked over to see whether I was a Part II
Grace and Favour, described how suitable bride for her old admirer
he set off for France the morning and I very much doubted whether I, In the tangle of tales told about
after their engagement, to spend or my tweed suit, passed the test . Coco Chanel one accusation is
Christmas in Monte Carlo: 'I had a Frantically searching around for invariably repeated. Chanel was a
dreadful suspicion that a particular- something to say, I mentioned that Nazi collaborator, whose wartime
ly elegant French lady would be Mrs George Keppel had given me a affair with a German officer leaves
meeting him there.' The following Chanel necklace as a Christmas her reputation blemished, and the
month Loelia was given no choice present. At once I was made to legacy of her visionary designs for-
but to be presented by the Duke to describe it. No, said Mademoiselle ever stained.
Chanel in Paris, as if by way of Chanel. It had certainly not come
inspection. On their way to her from her. She would never dream The truth is less clear-cut than that.
apartment, Bendor stopped to buy a of having anything like that on sale. That Chanel's wartime record is
present at Van Cleef & Arpels: And the conversation dropped with imperfect is a reflection both of her
'when he came out he patted his a bang.' own inconsistencies, and the incon-
pocket and said, "Not for you." sistent recording of them. But her
Poor Loelia, whose marriage was conduct should also be seen in the
'At that time Mademoiselle Chanel doomed from the start, and whose context of an era of French history
was at the height of her fame, her honeymoon on the Flying Cloud marked by widespread chaos, con-
quiet, neat, uncomplicated clothes was as miserable as her meeting fusion and uncertainty, as well as
being considered the epitome of all with Chanel. 'I think I can claim to terrible tragedy. To acknowledge
that was most chic. She was wear- be the worst sailor in the world,' this is not to act as an apologist for
ing a dark blue suit and a white confessed Loelia. Chanel; and she herself would have
blouse with very light stockings been enraged at the very idea, for
(light stockings were one of her As for Chanel, she kept as hard and she declared that she had done
credos). Described in this way she lovely a look on her face as a Scott nothing wrong in her relationship
sounds as if she looked like a high- Fitzgerald heroine, displaying a with a German.
school girl, but the effect was of brittle fortitude while she lost her
extreme sophistication.' beloved Bendor to another woman. His name was Hans Gunther von
But two days after the Duke's wed- Dincklage, and he was 13 years
More than 30 years after this alarm- ding to Loelia, he came to see Coco younger than Chanel. She was not
ing introduction, Loelia still in Paris, and then, at last, she cried. blind to the age difference she was
recalled the dazzle of Chanel's jew- 58 when their affair began as was
els. 'When I saw her she was hung Next week: implicit in her famous reply,
with every kind of necklace and recorded by Cecil Beaton, to the
bracelet, which rattled as she The second extract from 'Coco question of whether she had been
moved. Her sitting-room was luxu- Chanel: involved with a German. 'Really,
rious and lavish and she sat in a sir, a woman of my age cannot be
large armchair, a pair of tall The Legend and the Life', by expected to look at his passport if
Coromandel screens making an Justine Picardie she has a chance of a lover.' Von
effective backcloth. I perched, Dincklage was known to his friends

863

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as Spatz, the German for sparrow.
He was a tall, blond, distinguished-
looking attaché to the German
embassy in Paris.
Born in Hanover on 15 December
1896, Spatz had arrived in Paris in
1928, where he gained a reputation
as a suave playboy. After divorcing
his wife in 1935, he had several
affairs with smart, rich Parisians,
and at some point encountered
Mademoiselle Chanel on a social
basis, for she claimed to have
already known him 'for years'
before the start of their affair. As
for his professional activities in
Paris: to some observers Spatz was
simply an affable, occasionally
frivolous diplomat; to others, a
German spy.
If Spatz's record is ambiguous, then
Coco Chanel's is even more baf-
fling. The police archives in Paris
contain a large dossier on her, dat-
ing back to the 1920s, when she
first became a target of suspicion.
The intelligence on her was often
wildly inaccurate almost comically
so, at times yet also offers the occa-
sional nugget of information.
At the beginning of 1929, Chanel
came under scrutiny, possibly
because of her friendship with Vera
Arkwright, a well-connected
Englishwoman previously
employed at rue Cambon as fixer
and facilitator, who had introduced
Coco to the Duke of Westminster in
1923. Vera and her second husband
Colonel Alberto Lombardi were
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under surveillance as suspected
German spies, and by association
Chanel was also the subject of
investigation.
On 26 January 1929, a report was
filed that described Coco as an
'ancienne demimondaine' who had
been welcomed into Parisian socie-
ty, and was now possessed of excel-
lent contacts in the political and
diplomatic world. The police intel-
ligence recorded that she had set up
in business in 1910, with the help
of one of her 'American' friends
(presumably an incorrect interpre-
tation of her former English lover
Boy Capel's nationality) and that
she had been the mistress of the
Grand Duke Dmitri from 1921 until
1924.
On 20 January 1931, the Minister
of the Interior himself sent a confi-
dential letter to the head of the
police service in Paris, ordering a
close and discreet surveillance
operation into the Lombardis and
Chanel. The investigation was to be
conducted with extreme vigilance,
given 'the nationality of the sus-
pects and the nature of their
actions'.
But despite their best efforts, the
police came up with little in the
way of proof of any wrongdoing.
There was also reference, in 1934,
to Chanel's friendship with Winston
Churchill, whom she had met many
times before the war when she was
the lover of the Duke of
Westminster.
864
That long-standing friendship was
to be of considerable significance
to Chanel in the Second World War,
as were Vera's relationships with
Churchill and Chanel. Both women
were to call on Churchill for help,
as well as offering their own help to
him, which he was unlikely to have
required. All three of them were
linked, in different ways, by their
affection for the Duke of
Westminster.
Inevitably, there were times when
politics overrode friendship;
though Churchill was skilled at
navigating the hazardous ground
that divided the two. In September
1939, for example, when the Duke
of Westminster made a statement
opposing the war against Germany,
Churchill wrote to him expressing
the gravest concern. 'I am sure that
pursuance of this line would lead
you into measureless odium and
vexation.' Churchill did not refer
directly to Westminster's member-
ship of The Link (a right-wing, pro-
German movement), or to his repu-
tation for anti-Semitism, but he did
succeed in bringing him back into
line, so that the Duke's patriotism
and loyalty were never again ques-
tioned.
Churchill continued to see Chanel
when he visited Paris, and his visits
continued even after the outbreak
of war on 1 September 1939. He
would have known, therefore, of
her decision to close the House of
Chanel, as an immediate conse-
quence of the declaration of war.
Chanel's decision to shut down her
business in September was a con-
troversial one. 'This is no time for
fashion,' she declared; an
announcement that seems in retro-
spect acceptable, perhaps even hon-
ourable, yet at the time was seen as
an act of cowardice and betrayal.
Elsa Schiaparelli, on the other
hand, kept her business going. 'I
wonder if people fully realised the
importance as propaganda for
France of the dressmaking business
at this time,' wrote Schiaparelli in
her memoir, Shocking Life ,
describing couture as 'the opposi-
tion of feminine grace to cruelty
and hate'.
Several leading fashion designers
took the same view, including
Molyneux, Lanvin and Lucien
Lelong, the head of the Chambre
Syndicale de la Couture (although
Christian Dior, who worked for
Lelong alongside Pierre Balmain,
observed that the couture houses
remained open 'as much to provide
employment for thousands of
workers as out of patriotic pride').
But nothing withstood the German
invasion of France in May 1940,
and as the soldiers of the Third
Reich approached Paris in early
June, Schiaparelli joined the great
exodus from the city. At the Ritz,
Chanel packed her belongings into
several trunks, which she stored at
the hotel, paid her bill two months
in advance, and left for the
Pyrénées.
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As the summer passed, however, defending Chanel from such accu-
Chanel fretted to return, and even- sations after her death in 1971.
tually conceived a plan to make the
homeward journey. In Paris, as Yet Spatz was not the only German
soon as she approached the main that Chanel had dealings with. A
entrance of the Ritz, she was con- catastrophic error of judgement led
fronted by the sight of German sen- to her becoming embroiled with
tries at the door and uniformed offi- another, far more senior Nazi offi-
cers in the lobby. cer - a relationship that would lead
to a misguided trip to Madrid, the
The main part of the hotel, includ- consequences of which were to
ing her suite overlooking place prove markedly compromising.
Vendôme, had been requisitioned
for senior military personnel and When Spatz proved unable to get
high-ranking Nazis, among them Chanel's nephew out of the prison-
Marshal Goering. After some nego- er-of-war camp, she turned to his
tiation, a small bedroom was found friend Captain Theodor Momm for
for Mademoiselle on the top floor help. But at some point in Chanel's
of the rue Cambon wing of the negotiations with Momm, as the
hotel. war dragged on through 1943, a
bizarre plan began to take shape:
Von Dincklage was not sufficiently that she would act as a messenger
senior to be billeted at the Ritz, and to Churchill, and thereby initiate a
it may have been elsewhere in the peace process.
city that Chanel encountered him
again. But whatever the circum- When Momm went to Berlin with
stances of that meeting, she sought the proposal in the autumn of 1943,
his help in the release of her he found a receptive audience in
nephew, André, a French soldier Walter Schellenberg, the German
imprisoned in an internment camp. chief of foreign intelligence.
Schellenberg was already searching
Spatz was unable to do this but, for ways of covert negotiation with
nevertheless, Chanel embarked on the Allies, despite the fact that to do
a love affair with him at some point so was to risk execution by Hitler.
in 1941. Her maid, Germane
Domenger, who worked for Chanel In retrospect, when Schellenberg
from 1937 until 1966, was later was interrogated by the British after
outraged by suggestions that this the German defeat, he indicated
relationship was tantamount to col- that he had hoped Chanel might at
laboration. 'Mademoiselle refused least give Churchill a message that
to reopen her couture house and senior German commanders were
work with the Germans!' she at odds with Hitler, and were seek-
declared, in a letter she wrote ing an end to the war. His strategy
865
was to send her to Madrid to meet
the British ambassador, Sir Samuel
Hoare, with whom she was already
acquainted. The mission was code-
named Operation Modellhut
('model hat'); and for all the pan-
tomime frothiness of the title, the
participants appear to have
embarked upon it with serious
intent.
When Momm returned to Paris, the
plan began to seem less clear; in
part because Chanel wanted Vera
Lombardi to accompany her to
Madrid to deliver the letter to
Hoare. Vera was now living in
Rome her husband was in hiding in
southern Italy and needed German
authorisation to travel to Paris, and
thence to Madrid. Her version of
subsequent events is at odds with
Chanel's, and it is impossible to be
certain which of them was giving
the more reliable account.
Vera described receiving a letter
from Coco, delivered to her in
Rome by a German officer, in
which she asked Vera to return to
Paris to help her reopen the House
of Chanel. She declined the invita-
tion, and three weeks later was
arrested as a British spy; for this
she blamed Chanel. But Chanel
gave a different version, in which
she had acted as a faithful friend to
Vera, intervening on her behalf to
gain her release from prison in
Rome.
Whatever the correct interpretation
of their motivations, the two
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women travelled to the British
Embassy in Madrid together; once
there, Vera was refused permission
to leave Madrid and return to Italy.
Her claims that she was a loyal
British subject, and that Chanel was
an enemy spy, seem not to have
been given much credence by the
British Embassy staff in Madrid,
nor by Churchill's staff in London.
And when one examines the letter
that Chanel wrote to Churchill from
Madrid, it appears to be nothing
more sinister than a straightforward
appeal on Vera's behalf, to allow
her to return home to Italy. Nor did
it further the cause of Operation
Modellhut, which was abandoned
without ever really getting started.
The other account of these events is
that of Schellenberg himself, as
transcribed in the final Allied report
of his prolonged interrogation after
the war. If one is to believe
Schellenberg, Chanel did not travel
to Madrid but to Berlin. She was
originally brought to his attention,
he said, through Theodor Momm
and one of Albert Speer's func-
tionaries, SS-reopen Walter
Schieber. 'This woman was referred
to as a person who knew Churchill
sufficiently to undertake political
negotiations with him, as an enemy
of Russia and as desirous of helping
France and Germany whose des-
tinies she believed to be closely
linked together.' On Schellenberg's
instructions, Chanel was 'brought to
Berlin and she arrived in that city
accompanied by a friend, a certain
866
Herr Hans von Dincklage'.
According to Schellenberg, when
he met Chanel along with
Dincklage, Momm and Schieber it
was agreed that 'A certain Frau
Lombardi, a former British subject
of good family then married to an
Italian, should be released from
internment in Italy and sent to
Madrid as an intermediary.' The
report of Schellenberg's interroga-
tion continues: 'Lombardi's task
would be to hand over a letter writ-
ten by Chanel to the British
Embassy officials in Madrid for
onward transmission to Churchill.
Dincklage was to act as a link
between Lombardi in Madrid,
Chanel in Paris and Schellenberg in
Berlin.
'Accordingly a week later
Lombardi was freed and sent by air
to Madrid. On her arrival in that
city, however, instead of carrying
out the part that had been assigned
to her she denounced all and sundry
as German agents to the British
authorities ... In view of this obvi-
ous failure, contact was immediate-
ly dropped with Chanel and
Lombardi and Schellenberg does
not know whether any communica-
tion was subsequently handed to
Churchill through this woman.'
Malcolm Muggeridge, who had
arrived in Paris as a British intelli-
gence officer on the day of its
Liberation in 1944, recalled subse-
quently having dinner with Chanel
in her private apartment, and
observed her with some fascina- hair of her head. bouquet of white flowers in the
tion, in an encounter that was a photograph that her great-aunt kept
curious combination of social visit 'Having thus gained a breathing pinned by her dressing-table at the
and intelligence gathering for MI6. space, she proceeded to look for Ritz.
help à gauche et à droite , and not in
He had been taken to rue Cambon vain, thereby managing to avoid Now, Gabrielle Labrunie lives
'by an old friend of hers, F, who had making even a token appearance alone, but Mademoiselle is all
appeared in Paris, covered in gold among the gilded company on a around her. In her bedroom, there is
braid, as a member of one of the collaborationist charge.' After a photograph of Chanel as a young
numerous liaison missions which wards, Muggeridge tried to draft woman, before she had cut her hair
by now were roosting there'. His some sort of report on Chanel, but off; the long dark locks pinned up
first impression of Chanel 'was of realised that there was nothing to on her graceful head. In the living-
someone tiny and frail, who, if one say, except that he was sure 'the room are rows of bookshelves filled
puffed at her too hard, might easily épuration mills, however small they with Chanel's first editions and her
just disintegrate …' might grind, would never grind her furniture still stands solid on the
as indeed, proved to be the case'. floor.
Yet as the evening progressed, he
realised that for all the fragility of You could search forever for the Gabrielle leads me along a corridor,
her appearance, Chanel was well whole truth about Gabrielle Chanel, to a simple room with a wooden
able to defend herself. She gave no and never find the last of the miss- wardrobe on one wall. She opens
impression of uneasiness at the ing pieces; for when she cut up her its door, gestures inside, and says,
presence of an MI6 officer in her history, she scattered it all around, 'These are her clothes. You can try
salon, and 'towards F she adopted losing some details, hiding others, them on if you like.'
an attitude of old familiarity, as covering her trail. Sometimes, you
though to say: "Don't imagine, my feel you might just catch up with I put on a cream jacket trimmed
dear F, that your being dressed up her: in her apartment at rue with black braid, its narrowly cut
in all that gold braid impresses me Cambon; or in her upstairs studio, sleeves elongating the arms, flatter-
at all. I know you!" where Karl Lagerfeld now reigns, ing the curve of the body, yet com-
although her name is still on the fortable enough for me to raise my
'Nor had she, as a matter of fact, door, as if barring anyone else from hands above my head. Then there is
any cause for serious anxiety, hav- entering. The sign is just as she left a fur-collared jacket in a pale natu-
ing successfully withstood the first it: 'Mademoiselle Privé'. ral-coloured wool, just as
épuration assault [purges of collab- Mademoiselle recommended to
orators] at the time of Liberation by There is a manor house in the others, but lined with a Japanese
one of those majestically simple French countryside, an hour or so silk print, its black calligraphy
strokes which made Napoleon so by train beyond Paris, where unintelligible to my Western eyes,
successful a general; she just put an Chanel's great-niece, Gabrielle yet perfectly proportioned, repeated
announcement in the window of her Palasse-Labrunie lives; a quiet in minute detail over and over
emporium that scent was free for place, hidden behind high walls and again.
GIs, who thereupon queued up to solid gates. Madame Labrunie is in
get their bottles of Chanel No 5, her eighties now, but her face still I slide my hands into the pockets
and would have been outraged if contains clear traces of the girl she 'The pockets are meant to be used,'
the French police had touched a once was; the young girl carrying a Gabrielle reminds me, 'just like the

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buttonholes, never a button without alone," she'd say. "It's a mistake. I though it was a Saturday, furiously
a buttonhole, everything has its used to think I had to make my life racing against the clock to finish
purpose' and find a pair of ivory- on my own, but I was wrong."' her latest couture collection. The
coloured gloves inside. I take them following morning, she was forced
out, and a faint scent emerges. Mademoiselle Chanel was still to remain at rest; even the formida-
'Chanel No 5,' says Gabrielle, with attended by a retinue: a butler, ble Chanel could not insist that her
a smile. 'Her gloves, her perfume François Mironnet; a maid, Céline, employees go to work on a Sunday.
still here.' whom she called Jeanne (her moth- Claude Delay came to visit her at
er's name); a secretary, Lilou the Ritz at one o'clock, where she
I wish I could tell you that her scent Grumbach. Sometimes François found her sitting at her dressing-
still lingers in her rooms at the Ritz, took off his white gloves and sat table again, applying her make-up,
but that would not be the truth. I down beside her to eat, to keep her carefully drawing on her dark eye-
was not sleeping in the Coco company; or played cards with brows and red lipstick, examining
Chanel suite that overlooks the Lilou in the room adjacent to her reflection in the mirror.
place Vendôme its gilded grandeur Mademoiselle, while she was
a reminder of Chanel's pre-war falling asleep. They lunched together downstairs
years at the hotel, when the Duke of at Chanel's usual table and then,
Westminster visited her here, as did But she always came back to her long after the room had emptied,
Churchill and the Prince of Wales quiet white bedroom at the Ritz; the two women finally left for an
but in the accommodation that she and when the day ended, when afternoon drive. By the time the car
inhabited after the German inva- there was no one left for her to talk brought them back to the Ritz, the
sion of Paris, and where she chose to, she would take her scissors from sun had disappeared, and a full
to remain in peacetime, a modest their place on the bedside table, cut moon was rising. Delay said good-
bedroom on the sixth floor. her pills from their foil covering, bye, and, as Chanel disappeared
and then give herself her nightly through the door of the Ritz, she
Here she lay, night after night, injection of Sedol, a form of mor- called out that she would be work-
alone as she grew older, albeit phine that she had relied upon for ing again at rue Cambon, as usual,
beneath the same roof as others; the many years to help her sleep. the next day.
Ritz a kind of secular monastery
where the rich found refuge in the Yet the sleep it brought was not that Mademoiselle Chanel took the lift
consolations of its quiet order; of dreamless oblivion. In the dark- back to her bedroom on the sixth
although Chanel's rest was often ness Chanel was troubled by night- floor, where her maid Céline was
disturbed. In this bedroom I spoke mares, unbidden terrors, sleepwalk- waiting for her. She was tired, she
to her friend Claude Delay who ing; sometimes she would rise from said to Céline, and lay down on her
described to me what had taken her bed, take her scissors from the bed, still fully clothed, not wanting
place within these walls. bedside table, and sit in front of the her maid to undress her. At about
mirror of her dressing-table, cutting 8.30pm, she suddenly cried out to
'I often found her alone,' said Delay, at her pyjamas, jabbing and slash- Céline that she couldn't breathe,
'sitting at her dressing-table, gazing ing at the cloth. asking her to open the window. The
down into the garden, looking at maid rushed to her mistress's bed-
the chestnut trees. She was still so On the day before her death, 9 side, trying to help her, as Chanel
slender, thin as a girl in her white January 1971, Mademoiselle was struggling to give herself her
pyjamas. "One shouldn't live Chanel was still working, even injection. Céline broke the phial of

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drugs, and then Mademoiselle from view; still hidden from them
pushed the syringe into her hip. now.
'You see,' she said to Céline, 'this is
how one dies.'
Published on 16 September, it is
The next morning, Chanel's body available from Telegraph Books
lay in her white bedroom at the (0844 871 1515; books.telegraph.
Ritz; her maid had dressed her in a co.uk ) at £23 plus £1.25 p&p
white suit and blouse, and tucked
her hands beneath the linen sheets.
'She looked very small,' says Delay,
'almost like a little girl taking her
first communion.'

The funeral service was at L'Eglise

de la Madeleine, the grandest
church close to rue Cambon. Her
coffin was set beneath the statue of
Mary Magdalene, and covered with
white flowers camellias, gardenias,
orchids, azaleas; some formed into
a cross, others in the shape of scis-
sors except for a single wreath of
red roses.

Yves Saint Laurent came to pay his

respects, as did his fellow couturi-
ers, Balmain, Balenciaga,
Courrèges. So many of her friends
and lovers were dead but Jeanne
Moreau was at the church along
with Salvador Dalí and all of her
models, a long line of them, wear-
ing immaculate couture.

Two weeks later, the same models

appeared in Mademoiselle's last
couture show, in ivory tweed suits
and white evening dresses; many of
those in the audience found their
eyes drawn to the steps at the top of
the mirrored staircase, where
Mademoiselle used to sit, hidden

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We are in the middle of fashion
month and reams and gigabytes
have been written about the various
collections that stomped down run-
ways. Apparently Chanel has got
its interlocking-C embossed undies
in a bunch about writers and editors
using its name as a descriptor for
other designers’ collections. So the
company took out an entire back
page ad in WWD yesterday to tell
us all off entreat us:
“A note of information and entreaty
to fashion editors, advertisers,
copywriters and other well-inten-
tioned mis-users of our Chanel
name:
Chanel was a designer, an extraor-
dinary woman who made a timeless
contribution to fashion. Chanel is a
perfume. Chanel is modern ele-
gance in couture, ready-to-wear,
accessories, watches and fine jew-
elry. Chanel is our registered trade-
mark for fragrance, cosmetics,
clothing, accessories and other
lovely things. Although our style is
justly famous, a jacket is not ‘a
Chanel jacket’ unless it is ours, and
somebody else’s cardigans are not
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‘Chanel for now.’ And even if we into an adjective. To do so would
are flattered by such tributes to our require the permission of the com-
fame as ‘Chanel-issime, Chanel- pany. They own the name. You
ed, Chanels, and Chanel-ized’, can’t use it in any kind of descrip-
Please don’t. Our lawyers positive- tive manner at all.
ly detest them. We take our trade-
mark seriously. I asked Anne about writing some-
thing like: “Designer X showed a
Merci, collection of jackets that looked a
lot like Chanel’s 2004 collection.”
Chanel, Inc.” She said that even that is a gray
area. Like Kleenex and Xerox,
Chanel is one of the few fashion Chanel is trying to prevent their
brands that can truly be called icon- name from becoming generic.
ic. If I write that a jacket looks
“Chanel-esque” you know exactly So why the ad? “They are policing
what I’m talking about. However, I their brand,” Anne told me. “They
could get into legal trouble if I have to do it, because if they end up
write that. Yep. in court with a trademark issue and
they can’t prove to a judge that
I spoke to Anne Sterba, who is one they’ve been trying to protect their
of the attorneys at the intellectual brand, they will lose credibility.”
property firm Rothwell, Figg, Ernst So this ad is apparently a part of
& Manbeck. (They are the firm that that process of protecting the trade-
recently represented Valentino dur- mark. She also mentioned that
ing that 16-year marathon trade- while start-ups and newer designers
mark case.) She has never worked might want that exposure, because
with or represented Chanel, but any press is good, it can hurt the
offered her take on the ad. perceived quality of more estab-
lished brands.
She said that Chanel or any other
trademarked name can’t be turned So with this in mind, the jackets I
870
saw in the windows of several dif-
ferent stores today were merely
tweedy and boxy, with embellished
hems and plackets. They reminded
me of no particular brand at all.

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Chanel took out a full back page
advertisement in a magazine
recently to dissuade further “mis-
use” of the Chanel name. Women’s
Wear Daily, a trade journal for the
fashion industry, has been referred
to as “the bible of fashion.” It has a
circulation of over 50,000. The ad
by Chanel reads:
A note of information and entreaty
to fashion editors, advertisers,
copywriters and other well-inten-
tioned mis-users of our Chanel
name: Chanel was a designer, and
extraordinary woman who made a
timeless contribution to fashion.
Chanel is a perfume. Chanel is
modern elegance in couture, ready-
to-wear, accessories, watches and
fine jewelry. Chanel is our regis-
tered trademark for fragrance, cos-
metics, clothing, accessories, and
other lovely things. Although our
style is justly famous, a jacket is
not ‘a Chanel jacket’ unless it is
ours, and somebody else’s cardi-
gans are not ‘Chanel for now.’ And
even if we are flattered by such
tributes to our fame as ‘Chanel-
issime, Chanel-ed, Chanels, and
Chanel-ized,’ Please don’t. Our
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lawyers positively detest them. We advertisement with cease and desist
take our trademark seriously. letters to the seemingly numerous
“well-intentioned misusers” target-
The ad was prompted by various ed by the ad. In addition, is the
writers’ reports of collections public ad addressed to the fashion
exhibited during New York’s fash- industry at-large likely to create a
ion week, which used variations on backlash against the brand by ruf-
the Chanel moniker to describe fling fashion industry reporters’
other designers’ collections. feathers? Or is the Chanel brand so
According to Anne Sterba, an intel- iconic that it can withstand any ad-
lectual property lawyer at related ill-will?
Rothwell, Figg, Ernst & Manbeck,
Chanel is trying to prevent their
name from becoming generic.
Sterba told Cheryl Wischhover at
Fashionista that Chanel’s ad
exhibits active policing of their
brand, which could prove essential
“if they end up in court with a
trademark issue” because it would
allow them to show a judge that
they’ve been trying to actively pro-
tect their brand, and that would
give them additional credibility.
Although, one has to wonder, was
the full page ad in cheaper/more
efficient/more effective than send-
ing out a slew of cease and desist
letters¸ which Chanel has done in
the past? I would be curious to find
out if Chanel supplemented its
872
Chanel’s latest men’s fragrance, Following this sensory tour through square-like glass flacon but with
Bleu de Chanel, is the brand’s first an imaginary orchard is the founda- shades of slate gray and midnight
fragrance since 2004’s Allure tion of woody elements. Cedar, nut- blue reminiscent of a sleek urban
Homme Sport and its first major meg, and sandal wood give the skyscraper.
master brand since 1990s Egoiste. scent heart and warmth, grounding
the fragrance and exerting overall The darkness and glossiness of the
Its launch, therefore, is an event not masculinity. This careful play on bottle is a something new for the
only for the prestigious brand, but citrus and woody is completed with brand, which has often favored
also for an industry hungry for exotic patchouli and frankincense. more traditionally elegant shapes
more men-centric luxuries. No less and appearances. The bottle’s con-
than master director Martin Adventurous temporary design is topped off with
Scorsese has lent his cinematic a functional and novel magnetic
genius to the visually stunning The modern gentleman, unlike cap.
commercial that supports Bleu de those in past decades, is less con-
Chanel’s introduction to the mar- fined by the norms of society he is Free hand
ket. adventurous, a traveler, a breaker of
rules even while maintaining his Chanel gave Scorsese a free hand
The best way to describe this new integrity and inherent sophistica- when it came to directing the film.
masculine scent is modern, hand- tion. The ad shows French actor and ris-
some and effortless. While many of ing international star Gaspard
the classic men’s offerings from The folks at Chanel want Bleu to fit Ulliel chasing a beautiful blonde
this timeless brand has been geared a younger crowd drawn to the down a city street and losing her as
towards a more genteel and formal brand’s history of quality. It was she runs into a train station.
sensibility, Bleu is decidedly created to appeal to their exciting
younger and fresh. and varied lifestyles, whether min- Then, cut to Ulliel in a press con-
gling with society in urban hot ference in a blue light filled glass
Chanel house nose Jacques Polge spots or partaking in an adventur- conference hall. He’s seated in
starts the mix with citrus top notes. ous escape to the Far East. front of journalists who seem to
The smell conjures images of want to know the answer to one
orange and lemon trees and is Like its predecessor, Allure, Bleu question, but the man can’t seem to
accompanied by the zesty inclusion maintains a strong masculine and focus. He is distracted by the mem-
of grapefruit and pink peppers. angular quality in its packaging a ory of that woman, being on a train

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with her, finding her at a café, tak- mini-film/commercial for the icon-
ing her photos, walking in on her in ic Chanel No.5 perfume, while
the tub. 2009 saw another accomplished
actress, Audrey Tautou, starring in
He is surprised to see the blonde in a commercial by “Amelie” director
the crowd. He leans over and Jean-Pierre Jeunet.
announces to the throng, “I’m not
going to be the man I’m expected to
be anymore.” He stand us abruptly,
the walls around him collapse and
he walks away from the scene as a
voiceover declares: “Be
Unexpected.”

The story is essentially about strug-

gling to break out of a routine, to
move beyond life’s series of events
and to attain freedom. What is com-
mendable is the distinct flair and
signature markings of Scorsese as
well as the consistency of the color
blue throughout the short film.

It’s not every day that you see such

an accomplished filmmaker collab-
orating with a high fashion brand, a
feeling shared by the film’s star.

“Scorsese is a director whom I’ve

admired for a long time,” Ulliel is
quoted as saying. “I see him as one
of the great masters of contempo-
rary filmmaking. Throughout the
five days of work, he overflowed
with energy and enthusiasm and
achieved something that truly
stands out from other fragrance
commercials.”

The French luxury house is no

stranger to Tinseltown. In 2004 Baz
Luhrman, directed his “Moulin
Rouge” muse Nicole Kidman in a

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French Vogue celebrated its 90th propagated a mode of dress that contributes to the confession that,
anniversary last month. A celebra- provided comfort with dignity; an "You could search forever for the
tory issue of the magazine featured important distinction. And she did whole truth about Chanel, and
birthday cards from the world's so while quipping, "I know women. never find the last of the missing
largest fashion houses. One, a Give them chains. Women adore pieces; for when she cut up her his-
sketch by Chanel art director Karl chains." Ms. Picardie points out tory, she scattered it all around, los-
Lagerfeld, showed him (dark glass- that she probably wasn't just refer- ing some details, hiding others,
es, long white pony tail) fore- ring to the strap of the iconic covering her trail." Ms. Picardie's is
grounded by Mademoiselle herself, Chanel bag design. The author is at a very chic shrug of acceptance.
Coco Chanel (hair bobbed, hands her best in the analysis of these
deep in pockets). throw-away lines, picking up every Before she was Coco, she was
discarded clue and using it sugges- Gabrielle and was born on Aug. 18,
Almost 30 years after her death tively. 1883, in a poorhouse in Saumur.
and a full century since she opened But she changed her name and
a milliner's shop on 21 Rue Coco Chanel: The Legend and the scratched the birth date out of the
Cambon in Paris Coco Chanel Life passports that she used in her life to
remains very much in the fore- travel to Scotland, to Switzerland,
ground of consciousness for the By Justine Picardie to Germany, to Hollywood. When
global brand that bears her name. It she came to tell the story of her
is a business based, even today, ( Harper Collins, 343 pages, £ 25 ) childhood, to friends and biogra-
upon the propagation of her image. phers Paul Morad and Claude
The headquarters of Chanel Delay, she lied.
The darker facets of this stands today at 31 Rue Cambon,
process are subtly and carefully underneath Coco's apartment, Ms. Picardie travels to where
revealed by Justine Picardie in which remains exactly as she left it. Chanel really spent her childhood;
"Coco Chanel: The Legend and the She is alluring biography-fodder not with two wicked aunts, but in
Life." This biography leaves you because she left so many trinkets of an abbey in Aubazine. On the floor
with the knowledge that, yes, clues behind and so little in the way of the abbey, Ms. Picardie finds
Chanel took women out of corsets of believable back story to tie them mosaics of five-pointed stars,
and put them into clothes that all together. Ms. Picardie's book which, with other symbols in the
allowed freedom of movement. But adds a bit more cohesion to the building, become imbued with
there's more to it than that. She also remnants that Coco left, but also theosophical significance through-

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out the book and are noticed time
and again in Chanel's designs. Can
it really be coincidence, Ms.
Picardie invites us to ask, that the
stars have five points, that Chanel's
star sign was the fifth in the zodiac,
and the perfume was called No. 5?
Yes, it can, as Ms. Picardie con-
cedes. "If Gabrielle Chanel
believed in magic it was more like-
ly to be of her own making." There
is nothing cryptic or mystical about
Chanel's success, during her own
lifetime or since. Within Ms.
Picardie's book are the hard facts;
Chanel had an eye for what was
needed, was unstinting and, she had
the Wertheimer brothers.
1920s. In a financial deal that
Chanel never seemed to have for-
given herself for, she ended up with
a 10% stake in the perfume that
bore her name, against the
Wertheimers' 70%. When the
Wertheimers, who were Jewish,
fled Paris in 1940 they left the busi-
ness with a friend who they hoped
would protect it against German
requisition. In doing so they pre-
vented Chanel from using the anti-
Jewish laws of the German
Occupation to declare the company
abandoned and claim it entirely for
herself. She tried nonetheless,
which was "a strategy that proved
unsuccessful and gravely tarnished
her reputation."
ture in which to this day lipstick
and perfume sales fund expensive
couture houses come recession and
depression.
Chanel No. 5 will be 90 years
old next year, making it slightly
younger than Vogue. But where
Vogue would be without the per-
fume adverts, without Chanel's
axiomatic instructions as to what is
stylish, without her as Marie Dmitri
put it "attitude of sublime contempt
for the public taste," a taste that she
nonetheless "catered for . . . assidu-
ously," is unfathomable. It is a
question that can only be answered
with a very chic shrug of accept-
ance.

Of all the relationships that
Justine Picardie outlines with great
clarity in the biography including
with Etienne Balsan and Boy
Capel, (as portrayed in the recent
film "Coco avant Chanel"), with
the composer Igor Stravinsky
(recent film title: "Coco Chanel and
Igor Stravinsky") the Duke of
Westminster (hence the interlocked
Cs that decorate some lampposts in
Mayfair) and Hans Gunther von
Dincklage (as pointed to in the
rumors, here defused, of Chanel's
Nazi collaboration) she makes the
point that Chanel's most important,
and most scandalous, relationship
was with one Pierre Wertheimer.
The Wertheimers owned
Bourjois, the large cosmetic com-
pany that took on the production of
the Chanel No. 5 perfume in the
Ms. Picardie contends that this had
more to do with Chanel's desire for
financial justice than anti-
Semitism, an argument that she car-
ries through to the tale's happy end-
ing. Eventually, after the war, they
struck a deal in which the
Wertheimers underwrote Chanel (it
is still under their private owner-
ship today), making her "unassail-
ably rich." Ms. Picardie notes that
"Wertheimer was far more loyal to
Chanel than any of her lovers." And
this biography revels in the irony
that, "Although she had not taken
his name, he took hers."
Chanel No. 5 and the subse-
quent perfumes that took on various
forms of her name and image,
proved to be the fashion house's
financial insurance. Other design-
ers followed suit, creating a struc-

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Chanel No. 5, the perfume synony-
mous with Francophile luxury and
celebrity decadence, was not
always oo la la! from France.
While World War II raged in
Europe, the perfume factory was
moved to, of all places, New Jersey,
according to a new book, "The
Secret History of Chanel No. 5."
It was a horrifying turn of events
for designer Coco Chanel. Her chic
cologne was being made in the
Garden State, although the materi-
als were smuggled in from France.
"It is monstrous," Chanel had
sniffed, according to the book's
author, Tilar Mazzeo. "They pro-
duced it in Hoboken!"
It didn't last long. After the war, the
Jersey-accented perfume returned
to France, where production contin-
ues to this day.
Mazzeo unravels the mystery
behind the world's most engaging
scent, tracing its inception to its
creator's humble origins and chron-
icling its rise to fame on the décol-
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letages of Marilyn Monroe, Jackie With the help of perfumer Ernest
Kennedy, Nicole Kidman and Beaux, Chanel combined the
Scarlett Johansson. Even Marlon "high" aroma of roses, associated
Brando was reportedly a wearer of with the well-to-do, and the "low"
the women's fragrance. smell of jasmine, linked to brothels.
"It's a kind of Frankenstein myth," Chanel said she sought to make a
Mazzeo told The Post. "It's a story "perfume like nothing else. A
of what happens when someone woman's perfume, with the scent of
creates something that becomes so a woman."
big that it defines her life."
In 1920, she achieved her goal,
It's nothing to sneeze at. Chanel No. making the most expensive per-
5 at $ 400 an ounce is more than a fume of its time, blending flowers
just a luxury item, it has represent- from Grasse, France, where a
ed a way of life for 90 years. pound of jasmine now goes for
$33,000.
"Perfume, it's the most important
thing," Coco Chanel insisted. But it's the secret ingredient that
made it truly special. Beaux added
Smells had always been important recently discovered synthetic mole-
to Chanel, who was a charity-case cules called aldehydes, now used in
orphan in a small French village. detergents and room fresheners.
The gardens, the incense-filled The "clean" air smell gave the per-
churches and hand-made tallow fume its je ne sais quoi.
soap all inspired her.
Less than a decade later, Chanel
When she had moved up the social sold 90 percent of her stake in the
ladder from cabaret girl to clothing perfume, a decision that would
designer, she drew on these ele- haunt her until death.
ments to create the most revered
perfume of all time. But the story of Chanel's success
877
took a dark turn. While the per-
fume's new owners moved produc-
tion to America to escape the
Nazis, she became a German sym-
pathizer, shacking up with an SS
officer during the French occupa-
tion.

By then, the perfume's legend over-

shadowed its creator's politics.
Chanel No. 5 had become some-
thing intangible, a scent for a real
woman.

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Coco Chanel's racy early life and was summoned by the French German lover without obscuring
her success as a couturier in Paris Interior Forces to answer questions. something of the truth, closing her
equipped her with an enviable little Which of the two, Grosvenor or eyes to his past, as well as his pass-
black book, bulging at the seams Churchill, stepped in on her behalf port; just as she had been apparent-
with the names of rich and famous. has never been clarified but Coco ly blind to previous episodes in her
Some were merely clients, but was soon back at home (in the Ritz own life".
many others were former lovers, Hotel), having been saved the
quite a few of whom were married. ignominy of having her head And of these, there were many.
She also had affairs with a number shaved and being paraded naked Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was
of high-profile men. through the streets of Paris along born illegitimate in 1883 in a poor-
with the other 'les collaborations house in rural France and after her
Two names stand out, the Duke of horizontals'. mother's death, while she was still a
Westminster Hugh Grosvenor, who child, her father abandoned her in a
she was once tipped to marry, and "It has generally been assumed that convent. Resonances from the
British prime minister Winston Churchill somehow intervened on orphanage later curiously featured
Churchill, connections which may Chanel's behalf," writes her new in La Pausa, her uber stylish home
have saved her skin in the aftermath biographer Justine Picardie, at Roquebrune on the Riviera.
of the Second World War. "although a lurid conspiracy theory Details from the nun's habits
has also circulated that links her cropped up in her designs, in partic-
During the war, Chanel, who was release to the British royal family, ular, collars, cuffs and the use of
then in her late 50s, had taken a purportedly to prevent revelations monochrome black and cream.
Nazi lover. Hans Gunther von of the Duke and Duchess of
Dincklage, who was 13 years her Windsor's unsavoury Nazi connec- Coco had a knack of airbrushing
junior, was reportedly under the tions". out the unhappy and less edifying
direct orders of the Reich Ministry parts of her earlier life when she
of Propaganda, using a press When later asked if she had been had achieved success as a couturier
attache post in Paris as cover. There involved with a German, Chanel later on. When she was 18 she left
was also a theory that he was a dou- replied: "Really, sir, a woman of the nuns and started working in
ble agent, secretly working against my age cannot be expected to look Moulins as a cabaret singer. She
the Nazis. at his passport if she has a chance became the mistress of the roue
of a lover." The author reflects that Etienne Balsan, who introduced her
In post-Liberation Paris, Chanel "perhaps she was unable to see her to an English playboy, Boy Capel,

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who was her lover and muse. She 1954, she chose the fifth day of the ary fashion designs forever
was soon cutting up his polo month her lucky number but it did- stained".
clothes and turning them into her n't do anything to soften the harsh-
androgynous style. ness with which she was judged. However, the author argues that
The clothes were ridiculed along Chanel's "conduct should also be
With his backing, she was soon on with her Swiss facelift and, to make seen in the context of an era of
her way as a designer. By 1919, the matters worse, rival Christian Dior French history marked by a wide-
year he was killed in a car crash, was making waves. spread sense of chaos, confusion
she had her own maison. After and uncertainty, as well as terrible
being a kept woman in the It was the world of celebrity that tragedy".
provinces with Etienne Balsan, she turned the tables for Chanel in the
had now moved into a rich, royal US, where she was hailed as the "To acknowledge this is not to act
circle and her world was peopled face behind the most famous per- as an apologist for Chanel," argues
by exotics like Salvador Dali, fume in the world Marilyn Monroe Picardie who, in a flight of purple
Picasso, Cocteau, Diaghilev and famously said the only thing she prose, paints a picture of Coco and
another lover, Grand Duke Dmitri, wore in bed was Chanel No 5. her Nazi lover speaking English
cousin of the Russian tsar. She was Revenue from the perfume bank together in an "act of solidarity, as
back being a mistress again, a role rolled the clothing collections and if they were setting themselves
she clearly had no moral problems her reputation as a designer recov- apart from German-occupied Paris
with as evidenced by her series of ered. in their own neutral territory" in her
relationships. apartment in Rue Cambon.
She was, of course, famous for her
Chanel's clothes mirrored her own Chanel suits. The most famous was Frequently photographed standing
lifestyle, replacing corsets with probably the vivid pink suit Jackie at the top of her mirrored staircase,
loose trousers and offering a Kennedy wore in Dallas in 1963 on the series of narrow mirrors under-
sophisticated liberation, independ- the day President John F Kennedy line to me the tragic, fractured qual-
ence and freedom to women. She was shot beside her in the car. She ity of Chanel's life, something that
replaced ornate evening gowns didn't remove it for a day and a Mademoiselle admitted at the end:
with her famous little black dress; night, forcing the world to see the "One shouldn't live alone, it's a
she popularised costume jewellery, horror of what had been done. It is mistake. I used to think I had to
monochrome dressing and her sig- now in storage, still caked in the make my life on my own, but I was
nature collarless, edge-to-edge blood of her husband. wrong."
jacket. She was a huge success as
well as becoming a celebrity. But Picardie acknowledges that in the For a woman who revolutionised
the fallout from the war years effec- tangle of tales told about Coco the how women dress and looked to
tively brought her career to a skid- gossip and speculation and rumours men's wardrobes for many of her
ding halt. that have spread from newsprint to innovative ideas, the 20th century
the internet the accusation that is icon missed out on the simple
Coco closed down her business two repeated most often is that "Chanel pleasures that most women take for
hours after war was declared. "This was a Nazi collaborator, whose granted, a loving, faithful partner
is not the time for fashion," she wartime affair with a German offi- and children.
declared. When she attempted a cer leaves her reputation blem-
comeback collection in February ished, and the legacy of her vision- As a business woman, she was

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razor sharp but her private life
revealed a very vulnerable woman
who used sleeping tablets and mor-
phine as her last defence against the
night.

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Sampling champagnes and sniffing
perfumes may seem like pastimes
of the idle rich, but for luxe histori-
an Tilar J. Mazzeo, it's all in the
name of research. The bestselling
author of "The Widow Clicquot"
releases her second biography of an
icon this month. "The Secret of
Chanel No. 5" ($26, Harper)
reveals closely-kept secrets, mar-
keting blunders and serendipitous
events that made No. 5 the best-
selling perfume in the world.
Why write a biography about
Chanel No. 5?
There's a fabulous story of the
woman, but there's a really interest-
ing story behind the perfume itself.
I wanted it to be a great beach or
train read about a product that is
one of the most famous luxury
icons in history. It's also about a
successful entrepreneur.
Tilar J. MazzeoWhy is it so mythi-
cal?
I did a lot of research on perfume
for the book, and every perfumer
I've talked to agrees, even competi-
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tors: Chanel No. 5 is a masterpiece Why is she idolized?
of composition. Part of it is that it's
really a great perfume. One of the For the modern woman, she's part
five great perfumes of 20th century. of what liberated women's fashion.
Until the 1930s, women wearing
Did her celebrity affect the per- trousers were considered scan-
fume's success? dalous. Chanel targeted a sexy,
feminine and liberated woman who
She had very little to do with the could wear a jersey dress and fake
business after 1924. The decision to pearls and trousers and be femi-
sell it through the U.S. Army dur- nine. That resonates still.
ing the Second World War changed
it. In that moment of deprivation You write about the allergen con-
and cultural trauma for Europe and troversy surrounding perfume.
America, Chanel No. 5 becomes a Should perfumes and oils be regu-
symbol of a better time. It was lated?
transformed into an icon at that
moment. No, the reality is if you're sensitive
to natural jasmine, there's an easy
Coco Chanel is often depicted as a solution: Don't spray perfume on
cunning, complicated woman. How your skin. Spray it on your cloth-
do you view her? ing. We're talking about regulating
natural rose oil and natural jasmine
When you write a biography, you oil. If you're that sensitive, maybe
either fall in love with the person or you just don't want to wear perfume
you don't. I would have to say, at all.
truthfully, I am a bit distressed by
her opportunism at moments. She is Why is understanding luxury
clearly a brilliant designer and important for culture?
savvy, cunning entrepreneur, but
there were moments when she was We buy luxury products because
a very hard woman. they allow us to tell a story not
882
about who we are but about who we
want to be. At their most basic
level, they're aspirational. But
they're also a way of dreaming out
loud to each other.

Next book?

I just started a new one entitled

"The Ritz at War." It's on the histo-
ry of the Ritz Hotel in Paris during
the German Occupation.

What is your scent?

Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere. I wear

the updated lighter version and the
Eau Premiere boutique line.

Why doesn’t someone write a book

about the actual person who created
the world’s most famous scent?

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The title of Tilar J. Mazzeo's "The has seemed almost invulnerable to in 1909 when she set up a millinery
Secret of Chanel No. 5" suggests any force that might damage its shop in Paris. The boutique was a
that there is some hidden truth world-wide popularity. Though its success, prompting her to open a
behind one of the most famous fra- cachet has gone up and down over seaside store in Deauville, where
grances in the world. There may be, the years, it remains hugely popu- she introduced a sportswear line in
for all we know. There is certainly a lar. Les Parfums Chanel doesn't 1913 that bore the hallmarks of a
lot of Chanel lore that is unfamiliar reveal sales figures, but Ms. style simple and chic that would
to most of us. Mazzeo says that a bottle sells turn the Chanel brand into an inter-
somewhere in the world every 30 national fashion powerhouse.
The perfume's formula, for seconds, with annual revenue esti- A few years later, upset by a break-
instance, was not entirely original. mated at $100 million. up with her wealthy British
It was based on a fragrance made in boyfriend, Arthur "Boy" Capel, and
1914 to honor Russian royalty. What accounts for the continuing his subsequent death in an automo-
More surprising is the fact that, for fascination with a product that is bile accident, Chanel focused her
part of World War II, this paragon nine decades old? Ms. Mazzeo energies on establishing a perfume
of French fragrance was produced explains with a combination of line. Ms. Mazzeo says, in a typical-
in Hoboken, N.J. Most off-putting, engaging historical detail and at ly feverish passage: "The perfume
though, is the news that the per- times overwrought drama. she would create had everything to
fume's creator who would see do with the complicated story of
Chanel No. 5 turned into a cultural Orphaned at an early age, Coco her sensuality, with the heart-break-
totem in the U.S. by G.I.'s who Chanel grew up in the convent ing loss of Boy in his car crash, and
brought it home from Paris as a abbey called Aubazine in south- with everything that had come
fancy gift for their wives and girl- western France. Ms. Mazzeo con- before. In crafting this scent, she
friends spent the Occupation holed tends that the abbey's scents, aes- would return to her emotional
up at the Paris Ritz with a German thetic minimalism and even its ground zero."
officer as her lover. numerical patterns the place teemed
with five-pointed stars and penta- Chanel was introduced to perfumer
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel's affinity gon shapes, the author says made a Ernest Beaux, who had worked in
for the Germans she made two trips lifelong impression on the young Moscow for the fragrance house A.
to Berlin during the war did nothing girl. Rallet & Co. While there, he had
to dent the perfume's appeal. Since created a scent that was intended to
its launch in 1921, Chanel No. 5 Chanel's entry into business began celebrate Catherine the Great. But

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the timing, Ms. Mazzeo notes, was grances. Chanel, who retained a 10% inter-
not right: "A perfume named after a est, was seeking a world-wide mar-
German-born empress of Russia Chanel's perfume was not the first ket for the perfume. That goal was
was doomed in 1914." to use aldehydes, but it was the first attained, but Chanel came to bitter-
to use them in large portions. The ly regret the decision. At times over
By Tilar J. Mazzeo innovation led to a new category of the following decades she tried and
fragrance, the floral-aldehydics, failed to win back the company,
Harper, 281 pages, $25.99 that combine the scent of flowers even resorting to disparaging the
and aldehydes. perfume. By the time of her death
Working with Chanel, Beaux used in 1971 at age 87 she had reached a
his Catherine the Great formula to The story of how Coco Chanel settlement with the owners.
capture the qualities that Chanel decided what to name the perfume Corporate squabbles aside, Chanel
was looking for in her product: It has been often told: Beaux suppos- No. 5 has endured. Remarkably lit-
would have to be seductive and edly presented her with 10 vials of tle about it has changed since 1921.
expensive, she said, and "a modern fragrance, and she chose the fifth And if its history tells us anything,
work of art and an abstraction." A one. But in Ms. Matteo's telling, little will.
perfume based on the scent of a Chanel picked the fifth vial and
particular flower which at the time called her perfume Chanel No. 5
had the power to define its wearer because, if we believe the purple
as a respectable woman (rose) or a prose, the "special talisman" held
showgirl (jasmine) would not do. "I all manner of significance for her.
want to give women an artificial Even Boy Capel regarded five as
perfume," Chanel once said. "Yes, I his "magic number," according to
do mean artificial, like a dress, the author.
something that has been made. I
don't want a rose or a lily of the val- The fragrance was an immediate
ley, I want a perfume that is a com- success. Changes to the formula
position." "have been only minor and only
when absolutely required," writes
The composition she and Beaux Ms. Mazzeo, as when a type of
arrived at had strong notes of rose chemically unstable musk used in
and jasmine, balanced by what was, the perfume was banned in the
in the 1920s, a new fragrance tech- 1980s.
nology: aldehydes. Ms. Mazzeo
neatly explains that aldehydes are By then, Chanel No. 5 had long
"molecules with a very particular been unconnected to the Chanel
kind of arrangement among their business interests: Coco Chanel
oxygen, hydrogen and carbon sold Les Parfums Chanel an enter-
atoms, and they are a stage in the prise separate from her fashion
natural process that happens when house in 1924 to French industrial-
exposure turns an alcohol to an ists Paul and Pierre Wertheimer,
acid." Aldehydes provide a "clean" who had a large perfume manufac-
scent and intensify other fra- turing and distribution operation.

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The Chanel boutique, at 31 Rue The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The appreciation for the simple scent of
Cambon in the heart of Paris, is a Intimate History of the World's cleanliness, of fresh laundry and
glittering shrine to fashion and fra- Most Famous Perfume scrubbed skin.
grance. And that fragrance, of
course, is Chanel No. 5, the world's By Tilar Mazzeo "I think that also was a register of
most famous perfume. cleanliness that really influenced
Hardcover, 304 pages her interest in scent," says Mazzeo.
Supposedly, someone somewhere When Chanel set out to invent her
in the world buys a bottle every 30 Harper perfume, she was living as a kept
seconds. Marilyn Monroe notori- woman with a succession of rich
ously claimed to wear nothing to List Price: $25.99 lovers. By the conventions of the
bed but a few drops of Chanel No. day, that meant heavy, exotic scents
5. Read An Excerpt like jasmine and musk.

Cultural historian Tilar Mazzeo has
written a new book about this leg-
endary scent, The Secret of Chanel
No. 5: The Intimate History of the
World's Most Famous Perfume.
The world knows Coco Chanel as
the inventor of the little black dress,
the embodiment of style and luxu-
ry. But Mazzeo tells NPR's Jacki
Lyden that you can find the earliest
inspirations for her perfume in her
unlikely childhood. Chanel was
abandoned by her parents at an aus-
tere medieval convent in south-
western France.
The Secret of Chanel No. 5
The Smell Of Clean "If you wore jasmine, you were a
racy lady," says Mazzeo. "What a
"There are two things about the respectable young lady would wear
convent that are very, very impor- would be rose or violet."
tant for her, I think," Mazzeo says.
"Because it's Cistercian, and the But Chanel thought women should-
Cistercians believed in the symbol- n't smell like flowers; they should
ism of numbers, the number five smell like women. So she designed
was all around her." a scent that married sensual jasmine
and musk with new fragrance
Mazzeo says that mystical belief in chemicals called aldehydes that
numbers was at the root of Chanel's created the clean laundry smell she
obsession with the number five, a remembered from the convent.
number that she considered lucky
all her life. The combination was revolutionary
at the time and it remains a best-
And more important, the convent seller even now, 90 years after
gave young Coco Chanel a deep Coco Chanel first put the tester bot-

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tle to her nose. where it began. Chanel No. 5 calls make their way in the world as best
to mind all that is rich and lovely. they could. Albert loaded his three
Excerpt: 'The Secret Of Chanel No. It's surprising to think that it started daughters into a wagon without
5' in a place that was the antithesis of explanation and abandoned them at
what would later come to define it. an orphanage in a rural hillside
Tilar Mazzeo The truth is that the fragrance that town in Correze, at a convent abbey
epitomizes all those worldly pleas- known as Aubazine.
One: Aubazine And The Secret ures began with miserable impov-
Code Of Scent erishment and amid the most stag- It was there that the girl who would
gering kinds of losses. become known around the world
For the better part a century, the simply as Coco grew up a charity-
scent of Chanel No. 5 has been a Gabrielle Chanel's peasant roots case orphan. It was a profound
sultry whisper that says we are in went deep into the earth of provin- desertion, and the wounds of loss
the presence of something rich and cial southwestern France, and, in and abandonment were themes that
sensuous. It's the quiet rustle of ele- 1895, her mother, Jeanne Chanel would become as entwined in the
gant self-indulgence, the scent of a worn out by work and childbirth story of Chanel No. 5 as they were
world that is splendidly and beauti- succumbed to the tuberculosis that in Coco's. They formed an emo-
fully opulent. And, at nearly four had slowly destroyed her. The dis- tional register that would shape the
hundred dollars an ounce, it's no ease spread quickly in the wet and history of the world's most famous
wonder Chanel No. 5 suggests cold conditions of the rural perfume and Coco Chanel's often
nothing in our minds so much as provinces, and in the nineteenth complicated relationship to it.
the idea of luxury. century it was called "consump-
tion" for a reason. It ate away at the Today, the abbey at Aubazine
It's a powerful association. Chanel health of its victems from the remains much as it was during her
No. 5 is sumptuous. In fact, the inside, corrupting the lungs hope- hard and lonely girlhood. Indeed, it
story of this famous scent is the tale lessly and painfully. Gabrielle remains much as it was during the
of how a singular perfume captured named after the nun who delivered twelfth century, when the saint
precisely the fast-living and care- her and her four surviving brothers Etienne d'Obazine as his name was
free spirit of the young and the rich and sisters had watched it all. She rendered in the original Latin
in the Roaring Twenties and of how was just twelve years old at the founded it. During their time at the
it went on to capture the world's time of her mother's death. orphanage, Coco Chanel and the
imagination and desires. Chanel other girls were assigned to read
No. 5, from the moment of its first Her father, Albert, was an itinerant and reread the story of his exempla-
great heyday, was the scent of beau- peddler, and perhaps he simply had ry life, and the unrelenting dullness
tiful extravagance. no idea how to care for five young of his good deeds is crushing.
children. Perhaps he didn't particu-
The originas of the perfume and its larly care. He had about him a rak- The saintly Etienne, however, had a
creator, however, could no have ish charm and a lifelong knack for keen sense of aesthetics at a
been more different from all of this. dodging responsibility. Whatever moment when Western culture's
Indeed, part of the complexity of the case, in the span of only a few ideas about beauty and proportion
telling Chanel No. 5's history is the weeks, the young Gabrielle would were in radical transition. He and
great divide between how we think also lose her second parent. The the monks who followed him to this
of this iconic perfume and the place boys were sent out to work and to wilderness in a remote corner of

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southwestern France were mem- fashions. Perhaps the first person to
bers of a new and rapidly growing recognize Aubazine's profound
Cistercian clerical order, which importance was Coco Chanel's
prized nothing no much as a life biographer, Edmonde Charles-
and an art of elemental simplicity. Roux, who was one of the few peo-
Etienne's isolated retreat from the ple to know the story of this lonely
world at Aubazine was and remains childhood. She mentions it in pass-
a space of echoing austere ing. Thinking of Aubazine and
grandeur. Gabrielle's longing for a certain
kind of starkness, Charles-Roux
The road from the valley that winds always believed that:
up to Aubazine is steep and narrow,
and the forests slant down sharply Whenever [Coco] began yearn-
into long ravines. At the summit, ing for austerity, for the ultimate in
there is nothing more than a small cleanliness, for faces scrubbed with
village, with a cluster of low stone yellow soap; or waxed nostalgic for
buildings, a few shops, and quiet all things white, simple and clear,
houses overshadowed by the loom- for linen piled high in cupboards,
ing presence of one of France's whitewashed walls one had to
great medieval abbeys. By middle understand that she was speaking in
of the nineteenth century, it had a secret code, and that every work
been transformed from a monastery she uttered meant only one word.
into a convent orphanage for girls. Aubazine.
For the children who lived there, it
was a youth of hard work and strict It was at the heart of Coco Chanel's
discipline and, fortunately for the aesthetics her obsession with purity
future prospects of the young and minimalism. It would shape the
Gabrielle, much of it focused on dresses she designed and the way
clothing. There was nothing luxuri- she lived. It would shape Chanel
ous about it, however. Days were No. 5, her great olfactory creation,
spent washing laundry and mend- no less profoundly.
ing, and it was here that she
learned, of course, to sew. Excerpted from The Secret of
Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History
Coco Chanel once later said that of the World's Most Famous
fashion was architecture, and the Perfume by Tilar Mazzeo.
architecture she meant was based Copyright 2010 by Tilar Mazzeo.
on this convent home, with its bru- Excerpted by permission of Harper.
tally clean lines and the stark beau-
ty of simple contrasts. The connec-
tion has never been fully explored
in any of the books have been writ-
ten on Coco Chanel's revolutionary

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Each 30-milliliter bottle of Chanel
No. 5 is packed with the essence of
a thousand jasmine flowers, the fra-
grance of a dozen May roses from
Grasse and a heaping dose of alde-
hydes, the molecules that early on
gave the scent its modern edge. But
as Tilar J. Mazzeo points out in
“The Secret of Chanel No. 5,” these
are only a few of the many ingredi-
ents that turned a perfume into a
20th-century obsession. Into the
brew went Coco Chanel’s warm
memories of tallow soap and her
anguish over lost love, as well as
the perfumer Ernest Beaux’s nos-
talgia for imperial Russia and the
Arctic breezes of the White Sea.
The result: alchemical magic and
unprecedented sales that have led
industry insiders to refer to No. 5 as
le monstre the monster.
No. 5, now priced at about $260 an
ounce, has been an item of fashion
and fetish since its debut in 1921,
when in a bit of stealth marketing
Chanel invited her friends to dinner
in Cannes and spritzed the perfume
into the atmosphere around them.
“All the women who passed by our
table stopped and sniffed the air,”
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Chanel reported. “We pretended we of fresh linens and soapy children
didn’t notice.” that would seep into No. 5. Later,
while living among the louche
Mazzeo calls her book an “unau- demimondaines, she admired the
thorized biography of a scent,” but grand courtesan Émilienne
in fact it is a biography of Coco d’Alençon, who, unlike her peers,
Chanel as seen through the prism of smelled like a lady, which is to say
her famous square flacon. scrubbed. Chanel’s signature per-
Mazzeo’s 2008 book “The Widow fume “had to be lush and opulent
Clicquot” concentrated on another and sexy,” Mazzeo writes, “but it
French luxury liquid, Veuve also had to smell clean.”
Clicquot, and its maker. Here she Perfume aficionados suspect that it
explores interconnections between was Chanel’s lover Dmitri
designer and perfume, teasing out Pavlovich a cousin to Czar
the relationship with -delicacy. Nicholas II living in exile in France
after conspiring to assassinate
Chanel’s story has itself become a Rasputin who introduced her to the
commodity: young Gabrielle, an perfumer Beaux in 1920. Beaux’s
orphan, becomes Coco of the Rallet No. 1 was a Romanov fami-
cabarets, a mistress to wealthy men ly favorite, and for Chanel he creat-
and, soon enough, the intrepid hat- ed a revamped version. The fifth
maker who conquers the fashion sample, No. 5, was the one she had
world. (If Mazzeo’s book has a waited for: “a perfume like nothing
fault, it is a failure to digress more else,” she said, “a woman’s per-
richly into Chanel’s role in fash- fume, with the scent of a woman.”
ion.) At Aubazine, the convent-
orphanage where Chanel spent her No. 5 succeeded despite a bum-
childhood (she was left there by her bling marketing plan, tough compe-
father after her mother died of tition and a protracted legal battle
tuberculosis), she was immersed in between Chanel and the brothers
an austerity that would guide her Pierre and Paul Wertheimer, the
aesthetic, and absorbed the scents industrialists who handled manu-
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facturing and distribution of No. 5
and to whom she sold a majority of
her perfume business in 1924. It
was a decision she would regret.
When Germany invaded France in
1940, the Wertheimers, who were
Jewish, fled to New York, where
Estée Lauder helped set them up; a
daring employee returned to occu-
pied France and smuggled out
enough jasmine and rose extracts to
produce No. 5 in large quantities.
As for Chanel, her wartime activi-
ties included an attempt to claim
the Wertheimers’ French business
as “abandoned,” a request the
Vichy government denied.
Paris, German soldiers had lined up
in front of Chanel’s shop for the
French version. The perfume repre-
sented prewar decadence, glamour
and good times in a bottle.
“I couldn’t bring back an awful
lot,” one wartime nurse wrote home
to America. But no matter. She
landed the era’s ultimate souvenir:
“Chanel, you know, the perfume.”
Jessica Kerwin Jenkins is the
author of “Encyclopedia of the
Exquisite: An Anecdotal History of
Elegant Delights.” She writes for
Vogue.

Still, Chanel wouldn’t let No. 5 go.

From Switzerland, she publicly
declaimed its poor quality and cre-
ated a competing line under the
name Mademoiselle Chanel. “It is
monstrous,” she said of the
Wertheimers’ No. 5. “They pro-
duced it in Hoboken!” Rather than
take her to court, Pierre Wertheimer
eventually brokered a settlement
persuading Chanel to sign over all
rights to her business, and her
name, in exchange for a hefty annu-
al income and the promise that he’d
pay for anything she wanted forev-
er. By Mazzeo’s lights, Chanel, late
in her life, resumed living as a kept
woman.

By then, though, No. 5 was beyond

taint from politics or scandalous
association. At American military
commissaries, G.I.’s had snapped
up the Wertheimers’ No. 5, while in

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The Chanel “Coco Mademoiselle”
brand has already launched the
photos for the latest ad campaign.
Keira Knightley looks absolutely
spectacular in the latest ads for the
Coco Mademoiselle fragrance.
Keira Knightley is a true veteran of
the Chanel Coco Mademoiselle
brand. Her elegance, refinement
and fabulous sense of style have put
her on the spotlight time and time
again, making her perfectly suited
to represent the brand.
The beloved actress, who has been
one of the brand ambassadors since
2006, managed to conquer the
attention of the viewers around the
world every single time with her
undeniable charm and alluring per-
sonality ever since.
directed “Pride and prejudice” back balances sensuality and classiness
in 2005, a film in which Keira was in an ideal manner, being extreme-
the leading actress. Shot in Paris, ly versatile and alluring.
the campaign tries to skillfully
combine the sophistication and ele- Citrus notes, bergamot, jasmine,
gance the brand is well known for patchouli, white musk, vanilla and
and a subtle hint of adventure vetiver Haiti make up the incredible
bouquet of scents that contribute to
Seeing Keira on a motorbike is cer- the immense popularity of the fra-
tainly the distinctive element that grance. The high quality of the fra-
adds a touch of uniqueness to the grance and the constant strive for
campaign. With an undeniable retro perfection still remain evident even
allure, the photo can undoubtedly after 10 years of being on the mar-
be considered a link between the ket.
past and the present by highlighting
the various faces that femininity
can take nowadays and appealing to
a wide range of preferences. With
tasteful sexy touches and an under-
stated sense of refinement, the pho-
tos manage to be intense and mem-
orable.

For the 2011 ad campaign for theThe new ad campaign will be

Coco Mademoiselle fragance, the released surprisingly soon, on the
brand has taken inspiration from23rd of March to be more exact.
the 2007 campaign, revamping theHowever, the luxury brand repre-
photos and making them look a lot
sentatives have decided that the
more interesting. official fragrance release will only
take place on the first of April. The
This campaign was directed by iconic fragrance, which can easily
none other than Joe Wright, who become one's signature perfume,

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In her new book, “The Secret of
Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History
of the World’s Most Famous
Perfume,” Tilar Mazzeo reveals the
complicated and often scandalous
history of the world’s bestselling
perfume. Mazzeo looks at the psy-
chology and physiology of scent,
how Coco Chanel’s personal expe-
riences made their way into the fra-
grance, and the perfume’s unlikely
success during WWII, when pro-
duction was moved to New Jersey,
thanks to a deal with the Jewish
Wertheimer family. The Sisterhood
spoke recently with Mazzeo about
her book, how the famous fra-
grance paved the way for the
celebrity scent boom of the last
decade, and Chanel’s not so subtle
Jewish problem.
Elissa Strauss: Why did you decide
to write this book?
Tilar Mazzeo: This book grew out
of my interest in wine actually. In
many ways there’s a similarity
between wine and perfume, and I
began wondering, what makes a
great perfume? And of course that
led me to Chanel No. 5, which is
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
one of the masterpieces of modern of women.
perfume history.
What do you think of Chanel being
In what ways did Chanel No. 5 labeled as anti-Semitic? In what
pave the way for the celebrity fra- ways has that impacted her legacy?
grance boom of the last decade?
The business history behind Chanel
As one of the first celebrities to No. 5 is a fascinating story. She
have a signature perfume, Coco gave control of the perfume to a
Chanel started the fashion that group of investors as early as 1924,
Jennifer Aniston or Britney Spears and she spent much of the next 30
are continuing. She went to [per- years trying to wrest it back from
fumer] Ernest Beaux and asked him them when she realized how much
to develop a scent, and that’s what money there was to be made.
film and TV stars today still do at Unfortunately, some of her tactics
[fragrance houses] like IFF or did make cynical use of the fact that
Givaudan. these investors were Jewish.
The idea behind a signature scent, I French culture as a whole was quite
suppose, is that it’s part of how we anti-Semitic during this period, and
participate in the fashion image of I think it’s fair to say that Coco
our favorite celebrities. In the Chanel had the prejudices of her
1920s and 1930s, the daring new historical moment. It affected how
scents were more musky and she talked about her partners and
avowedly sexy. In the United States some of her actions during the
today, the fashion is for clean Second World War. And of course
scents. Perhaps we can deduce it wasn’t just French culture that
from this that women’s sexuality had this sort of prejudice either.
today has moved away from the Certainly, after the Second World
old-fashioned Hollywood volup- War her reputation was at a low
tuousness of the 1940s and 1950s point as a result of some of her
toward a fresher and lighter image decisions. In the end, however, the
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Jewish investors quietly triumphed.
One of the original families still
owns Chanel today.

What fragrance do you wear and

why?

I wear different perfumes, although

Chanel No. 5 is a favorite. I also
particularly like Mitsouko and
(hardly a deluxe confession) that
old German eau de cologne 4711.
But I wear scents just because I like
them. And there has been some
very interesting recent scientific
research on why we like the scents
we do actually. Scientists believe
that we like scents that highlight
what’s called our MHC basically
the “scent” of our immune systems
so that we can attract sexual part-
ners with complementary genetics.
It’s not very romantic! But scent is
one of the ways we fall in love with
each other, and that makes having a
signature scent (or a few of them) a
powerful thing. And the good news
is that if you just choose a scent you
really like, you pretty much can’t
go wrong.

And what do you think the future of

Chanel No. 5 looks like?

Chanel No. 5 has an astonishing

ability to remain current, so I sus-
pect it will continue to be the
world’s most famous scent for a
long time to come.

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The 25-year-old actress can be seen Keira Knightley, Chanel ad, Boy what some folks would do for
zipping around the streets of Paris YouTube grab The snapper tries to a fat pay check.
on a sleek motorbike dressed in a kiss Keira Knightley but she stops
skin-tight beige jumpsuit. him (YouTube) Madam Coco would be real proud.

Temperatures start to rise when she He said the commercial started as a

arrives at a studio for a photo shoot 'story about the male gaze, but
and starts posing for the hunky becomes about the female gaze.
snapper. The idea is the artifice of projected
sexuality.'
As Keira starts to unzip, the pho-
tographer shoos his assistants out of Asked why Keira was so great to
the room and rushes to help the film, he replied: 'It's like being
actress undress. asked why you love your wife, and
it's rather bland to say she's talented
Keira Knightley, Chanel ad, and beautiful and bold, because it's
YouTube grab Things start to hot such a subjective thing.
up between Keira Knightley and a
handsome photographer (YouTube) 'On a purely superficial level, she
just gets more beautiful which is
She then performs a sexy striptease very fair on the rest of us as we all
and writhes around on a bed cov- get to admire her.'
ered by just a white sheet.
Knightley has fronted the
But just as things really start to heat Mademoiselle fragrance ads since
up, Keira escapes out of the win- 2007 after replacing Kate Moss.
dow and takes off on her bike.
This is just another fragrance tease
Knightley teamed up with her Pride courtesy of a desperate industry
and Prejudice director Joe Wright searching for new ideas. Keep
to shoot the ad in the French capi- recycling the same old fragrances
tal. over and over.

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She scoffed at rules and norms, taste for the baroque and the Orient.
constraints and conventions, habits Like the Coromandel screens she
and traditions. These were simply collected and the glitter of gold that
shackles that kept the spirit from brought her good luck, Coco took
roaming free, corsets that prevented this splendour and turned it into
the body from expressing itself, extreme elegance. Coco has
diktats that dried up creativity, ref- enjoyed decades of success, with
erences that drained the life out of women still today naming it as one
talent and constricted frames that of their timeless favourites.
broke one’s momentum…
In the 1990s, new ingredients trans-
As early as the 1920s, Coco Chanel formed the perfumery landscape.
made an impact with her short hair, Unprecedented technologies were
white collar, jersey outfits, short- used to make fragrances lighter.
ened skirts and black-tipped shoes. This vast unexplored territory
Coco Chanel broke free of the past. inspired Jacques Polge to revisit the
She innovated. She created a style. formula of Coco. It is another facet
Her style. One that has now, para- of Gabrielle that determined the
doxically, become timeless. ‘Never formula he created in 2001.
again’ transformed into ‘forever- Nonchanant. Headstrong, Free.
more’. Timeless minimal style, Coco Mademoiselle is born. And
comfortable luxury, all that is nec- now a new advertising campaign
essary with none of the superfluous for this popular perfume and Keira
as well as the insolence of good Knightly as the face of Coco
taste. Mademoiselle was born and Mademoiselle.
then her fragrances. Coco
Mademoiselle is one of them. The Chanel range of products is
available from leading perfumeries.
In 1984, an olfactory revolution is Sole distributors: Alfred Gera &
born. Drenched in spices and Sons Ltd. Tel: 21446205.
Ylang-Ylang, the fragrance Coco
was inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s

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One of the primal instincts in man ed oils before each battle. Cleopatra fume is synthetic.
is the sense of smell. They say thatused to soak the sails of her cedar
during pre-historic times, most barges in perfume oil in order to In the early 20th century, perfume
males chose their mates using their surround herself with scent she democratized of luxury brands. In
sense of smell. Today, almost sailed to her destination. Her aim the middle market, almost every-
everyone both male and female was to enchant and enhance her body can own a piece of luxury
uses perfume. Scents evoke moods, presence in Rome. During the time when they buy a bottle of luxury
memories and transports you to dif- of Louis the XIV, he had his ser- fragrance. One can walk into any
ferent places. Each scent tells a vants douse scents on the wings of Chanel boutique and buy Chanel#5
story. The right scent can enchant doves with scent and had the doves but not everyone can afford to buy
you, enhance your personality, fly around the palace Versailles to a Chanel suit or bag. A bottle of
leave a lingering memory or leave a spread the scents across the whole perfume can make the consumer
part of you when you walk by. room. The King also used gallons part of the luxury clientele even
of perfume when he did his daily when they are only shelling out as
How many times have you remem- ablutions. much as $100.
bered a loved one by smelling their
shirt or the pillow they have slept Today, perfume is a $15 billion In the early 1930s, after the depres-
on? Everyone has a signature scent industry with Chanel starting the sion, the popularity of eau de toi-
perfume. If used in the right whole trend in luxury designer fra- lette rose to new heights. With only
amount, it enhances your natural grance. Chanel’s success is due to six to 12 percent extract in each
scent and helps bring out your Chanel #5 a scent named because it bottle, the product became even
pheromones in order to attract the was the fifth scent she chose when more affordable. Today, almost all
opposite sex. Just think of your she collaborated with her perfumer. luxury perfumes are synthetic—
loved one. Close your eyes and Chanel #5 is one of the few fra- reducing the costs to a fraction of
think of his scent it’s something grances that still uses a high per- what they used to be. To charge a
you never forget. So much so that centage of natural extracts. Extracts higher retail price, some fragrances
when a loved one passes away we are the oils and scents extracted even have the word Partum on the
always remember his or her scent. from flowers. To make a small cake label in order to distinguish it from
of pure extract it takes 4,000 roses. the Eau de toilette fragrances.
It is said that even as far back as Today only one or two places in However, heavy marketing is cru-
ancient Roman times, gladiators France still make extract from natu- cial in selling a fragrance. One can
oiled themselves down with scent- ral ingredients. Now almost all per- spend 25 milliion in marketing and

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get the same amount in sales.

The financial success of perfume

has even led to the rise of celebrity
perfumes, which came into the
market like a giant explosion. They
are like army guerrillas who come
in fast and strong, make like ban-
dits and slowly disappear into
oblivion. Take the example of
Sarah Jessica Parker’s Lovely by
Coty and J.Lo’s Glow by Coty.
They burst into the market using
the celebs as endorsers and backed
it up with heavy advertisements and
marketing point of sale materials in
drug stores and department stores.
The result is a quick sale amounting
to several millions of dollars.

The fragrance industry has become

a very big industry and I, for one,
am glad that synthetics are being
used to create the scent of flowers.
After all, if 4000 roses can just
make one cake of extract, man
could make a mess of the entire
eco-system if an industry this huge
depletes all the flowers. Where
would all the bees go? No bees no
honey… and the cycle continues.
With synthetic fragrances, at least
we can continue choosing fra-
grances without depleting all the
flowers on earth.

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There are two versions of the Coco And the second version – the real, called Parfums de Rosine in 1911.
Chanel story. The first is the ver- unexpurgated story – is actually far And such perfume houses as
sion we know so well since it rep- more thrilling than anything a com- Bourjois (whose Evening In Paris
resents the official history of the pany’s official history can come up was big in India as late as the
fashion house, has became the sub- with. Seventies) and Coty were selling
ject of movies and is the way the fragrances and making billions.
story is told in most articles about According to Chanel’s official his-
the house, or about the lady herself. tory, Coco Chanel was a great Sensing the gap in the market,
designer who changed the way that Coco commissioned Ernest Beaux,
According to this version, Coco women dressed and who invented a top perfumer of that age, to design
Chanel was a great designer who Chanel No. 5 a fragrance for her. Beaux drew on
changed the way that women successful perfumes (especially
dressed, who invented Chanel No. First of all, the house of Chanel was one called Rallet No. 1) to create
5, which has been, for several not built on the foundation of ten variations on a theme that he
decades, the world’s best selling Coco’s clothes for many years in presented to Coco. She chose the
and most famous fragrance, and the middle, there were no Chanel fifth sample, which she thought
whose house continues to the pres- fashions at all. It was built on a sin- was especially significant because
ent day, selling the sort of clothes it gle fragrance: No. 5. And secondly, the number five had a Theosophical
has always sold, even though Karl Coco did not create the fragrance connection. (Oddly enough, she
Lagerfeld took over as designer and did not even own the rights to it was into Theosophy at that stage of
after Coco died. for most of her life. her life.)

Elements of this version are accu- What is true is that Coco did have a She named the fragrance No. 5 and
rate. Coco was an amazingly influ- colourful youth (as the movies tell sold it at her boutique from 1921 to
ential designer. Chanel No. 5 is a us) and that she was a successful 1924. It was successful but produc-
great fragrance. And everything designer with a boutique that tion was small. That’s when Coco
Chanel does today – from clothes to catered to rich women on the Rue sold away her rights to the fra-
accessories to fragrances – is done Cambon in Paris. By 1919, couturi- grance yes, that’s right: from 1924
to the highest standards of quality ers (there was no ready-to-wear in onwards, Chanel No. 5 has been
and creativity. that era) were launching their own owned by somebody else, and
fragrances. The trend had been set never by Coco Chanel or her
But there are gaps in this version. by Paul Poiret who launched a line descendants.

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That somebody was the The Wertheimers took No. 5 to the hand, found production facilities in
Wertheimer family, the owners of US market and turned it into a Hoboken, New Jersey and started
Bourjois, then among France’s craze. In the years between the manufacturing No. 5 in the US. To
most successful fragrance compa- World Wars, it became among the Coco’s annoyance, the perfume
nies. The Wertheimers gave Coco a best known scents in the States, a continued to sell well in the US –
10 per cent stake in Parfums little slice of French high fashion where the real money was.
Chanel, the company they created glamour that the American middle
to make No. 5. She could keep her classes could afford. Chanel’s Then, the war ended. The Germans
boutiques and her couture business clothing business, in contrast, lost and surrendered. And the
and she could sell fragrances from remained small. Even with just 10 Wertheimers were back in France.
her shops (even sourcing them from per cent of Parfums Chanel, Coco They regained control of Parfums
outside Parfums Chanel.) But when made much more money from fra- Chanel while Coco, her reputation
it came to No. 5, that was 90 per grance than from her clothes. in tatters, went into exile in
cent owned by other people. Switzerland (in which country’s
Not surprisingly, she began to feel banks, she had stashed away some
Today, that arrangement would not that she had struck a bad deal. of her wartime profits from selling
be so unusual. Most fragrances are Relations between the Wertheimers No. 5 in Axis countries.) The
created by a handful of ‘Big Boy’ and Coco had reached an all-time Chanel clothing house closed down
fragrance companies and owned by low when the Second World War and Chanel No. 5 became the sole
such multinationals as P&G or broke out. Chanel product in the world.
Unilever. The designer whose name (Though Coco did try and sell Red
is on the bottle usually gets no more
You don’t see much reference to the Label fragrances briefly from exile
than a licence fee. But the arrange-role of Chanel during World War II in Switzerland).
ment between the Wertheimers and in company-sponsored histories
Chanel created that precedent way and that’s with good reason. The For some reason, the Wertheimers
back in 1924 when such deals were Wertheimers, who were Jewish, forgave her. In 1953, she came back
unknown. had to flee France after the German to France, her wartime collabora-
occupation or risk being shipped tion having receded from memory.
It also made explicit a fundamental off to concentration camps. Coco, She tried to make up with the
difference between couture and fra- on the other hand, happily slept Wertheimers who, in a rare show of
grance. The couture business would with the enemy – literally. generosity, proposed a new deal.
always be small because of its high
prices. (Even today, how many As the Wertheimers fled for their Now, they wouldn’t just own
women can afford Chanel couture?) lives, Coco took a German officer Parfums Chanel. They would own
But fragrance, though upmarket, as a lover, moved into the Ritz the Chanel name itself. Coco could
could be a mass business. So, the Hotel and tried to take over come back to Paris and re-open her
money was in perfume not in cou- Parfums Chanel, claiming that it clothing business but the
ture. had been abandoned by Jews. She Wertheimers would own it. In
continued to make Chanel No. 5 return, they would take care of all
Christopher Sheldrake, second in and sold it throughout Germany her expenses (including a suite at
command to Polge, says that and Axis areas. the Ritz) and pay her around a mil-
Chanel treats its perfume ingredi- lion dollars a year (around $ 25 mil-
ents with a lot of respect The Wertheimers, on the other lion in today’s money). It was an

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astonishing deal and it endured till alive, he is airbrushed out of the did a deal with jasmine growers
Coco died in 1971. picture. You could say it is a mar- promising to buy their entire pro-
keting ploy but given that burying duction. Today 99 per cent of all
Even then, Chanel remained largely the memory of the founders has not the jasmine grown in Grasse goes
the house that No. 5 built. It was hurt Dior and many other houses, I into just one scent: No. 5.
not till the 1980s that Karl always wonder why the
Lagerfeld joined and boosted the Wertheimers insist on worshipping On the other hand, most fragrances
sales of the house’s ready-to-wear, Coco’s memory. these days smell so little like the
thus helping create the Chanel we originals (tried smelling Miss Dior
know today. And Jacques Polge To their credit, they also honour the lately?) that you wonder if the
who took over as head perfumer in inventor of No. 5. To this day, they accountants have made perfumers
1978, launched such mega-success- will include laudatory references to cut costs and throw in cheap ingre-
ful fragrances as Coco and Allure Ernest Beaux and praise the genius dients. At Chanel, says Sheldrake,
which account for the perfume divi- of his vision. (No other house does the cost of making the fragrance
sion’s vast profits, though of this. Eau Sauvage, Diorella and has actually gone up (affecting
course, No. 5 is still the best-seller. Diorissimo were all created by the profit margins) but the management
great Edmond Roudnitska but he is will not compromise on ingredi-
Jacques Polge, who took over as hardly ever mentioned by Dior). ents.
head perfumer at Chanel in 1978,
launched such mega-successful fra- I asked Christopher Sheldrake, who I won’t spend too much time trying
grances as Coco and Allure is now second-in-command to to describe the smell of No. 5
Jacques Polge at Chanel’s perfume because I find it hard to put smells
Given this background and given division, why No. 5 has remained into words. You have probably
that the Wertheimers now own all such a huge success for so many smelt it already. If not, it is easy to
of Chanel (it is privately owned), decades. Sheldrake’s view is that find at perfume counters. You may
they could bear a grudge against apart from the fact that it is a great have heard that it was the first fra-
Coco for the appalling way she fragrance, part of the reason for its grance to use synthetic aldehydes
treated them. Instead, the House of success is that Chanel treats its but this is an over simplification
Chanel worships Coco. Visitors are ingredients with so much respect. and I’ll deal with aldehydes some
taken on reverential tours of her flat other time. But you should be able
at Rue Cambon (above her original At the heart of Chanel No. 5 is to smell the rose and the jasmine in
shop), marketers search for Chanel French jasmine. This is a jasmine your first whiff of No. 5.
references for not just the clothes that grows in Grasse in the south of
but also the fragrances, most of France and is quite different from Top perfumer ernest beaux created
which have names with links to our Indian jasmine. When the ten variations on a theme for coco
Coco. Nothing negative or even Wertheimers fled to America dur- chanel. she chose the fifth sample
mildly critical about the lady is ever ing World War II, they sent a man
officially tolerated. to smuggle out the jasmine from While there is only one No. 5, there
Grasse because they knew they are variations of the fragrance, all
Contrast this with say, Dior, where could not make No. 5 without it. sold under the same name. The
nobody ever mentions Christian More recently, when a flood of original, as invented by Ernest
Dior himself or Givenchy where cheap jasmine from elsewhere put Beaux, was a perfume (ie. one of
even though Hubert de Givenchy is the Grasse version in peril, Chanel those small, concentrated thingies).

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Chanel prides itself on making the wood heaviness of the 1980s refor-
perfume pretty much as it was mulation and it smells less old-
made in 1924. fashionedly flowery to me. There is
a citrusy edginess to it (perhaps
But the smell most of us think of from all the modern molecules) and
when No. 5 is mentioned is not the it smells most like the modern fra-
perfume. It could be the Eau de grances Polge and Sheldrake have
Toilette, which came out soon after created for the Exclusifs range.
the perfume (an Eau de Toilette is
the stuff you spray from the bottle If you want classic No. 5, go for the
around 10 per cent concentration of EDT. If you want people to ask
perfume oil) and is the classic smell what you are wearing, use the EDP.
of No. 5, at least in the public imag- And if you want to smell modern
ination. To the untrained nose, it and (dreadful word!) slightly fresh,
smells a lot like the perfume but try the Eau Premiere.
anybody with fragrance experience
can tell that it is subtly different. But if you wear fragrance, then you
must own at least one bottle of No.
In the 1980s, when there was a 5. It is the greatest perfume ever
fashion for big in-your-face fra- invented (though not necessarily
grances, Chanel decided to update the best) and it deserves your
No. 5. Nothing Jacques Polge does respect.
is ever in-your-face but the Eau de
Parfum (another spray - 15 per cent
perfume oil) has more sandalwood
and may, I, daresay appeal to Indian
sensibilities more.

The Eau Premiere, which is the

most recent version, is also a
Jacques Polge creation. In the
1920s, Beaux did not have access
to many of the ingredients and mol-
ecules that are now available. Polge
sat down and asked himself, “what
would Beaux have done with his
original idea if he had access to
today’s ingredients?”

Eau Premiere is the result of that

thought. It is still recognisably No.
5 but is to my nose at least a little
crisper. It does not have the sandal-

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In 1921, a clever French business- Now she wanted to create a scent perfume for her best clients - a new
woman and belle of the Parisian that could describe the new, mod- trend among fashion houses - it was
social elite created a scent that rev- ern woman she epitomised. important that it imbue this fresh-
olutionised the way women smell. ness.
Ninety years later Chanel No 5 is But Chanel's background was trou-
arguably still the world's most icon- bled and complex, and it was some- But she had trouble finding a per-
ic perfume. thing that seeped into her trademark fumer who could achieve this.
fragrance.
With a healthy disregard for social "The grail in perfumerie has always
etiquette and a retinue of friends She was the daughter of a market- been to create very fresh fragrances
and admirers among the city's stall holder and a laundry woman in that last," says Frederic Malle, per-
"racy" women, couturier Coco rural France, but when her mother fume editor and professional
Chanel traversed the boundaries died she was sent to a Cistercian "nose".
between lady and mistress. convent at Aubazine where she
spent her teenage years. "In those days the only way to cre-
By the beginning of the twenties ate fresh fragrances was to use cit-
Chanel was already a phenomenon Cleanliness rus such as lemon, bergamot and
in French fashion circles. orange. These things are very fresh
Coco Chanel Coco Chanel wanted and very charming but they don't
She had come to Paris as the mis- to create a fresh, clean smell last on the skin."
tress of the textile baron Etienne
Balsan in 1909 and set up a The smell of soap and freshly At the time, chemists had already
millinery boutique under Balsan's scrubbed skin was something that isolated chemicals called aldehydes
apartment. stuck with her for years after. which could artificially create these
smell.
By 1921, she had a series of suc- She was fastidiously clean and later
cessful boutiques in Paris, when she worked among the mis- But they were extraordinarily pow-
Deauville and Biarritz, she owned a tresses of the rich she complained erful so perfumers were hesitant to
villa in the south of France and about the way they smelled, stink- use them.
drove around in her own blue Rolls ing of musk and body odour.
Royce. During the late summer of 1920
When she decided to commission a Chanel went on holiday on the Cote

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d'Azur with her lover the Grand "So she could balance in her own
Duke Dimtri Pavlovich. mind, her childhood in a convent
and then this luxurious life as a
There she learned of a perfumer, a mistress."
sophisticated and well-read charac-
ter called Ernest Beaux who had Chanel later said, "It was what I
worked for the Russian royal fami- was waiting for. A perfume like
ly and lived close by in Grasse, the nothing else. A woman's perfume,
centre of the perfume industry. with the scent of a woman."

Beaux was a curious and daring The scent, imbued with jasmine,
craftsman and took up Chanel's rose, sandalwood and vanilla, was
challenge. an instant success, partly due to
some of Coco's ingenious market-
Result of a mistake? ing tricks.

It took him several months to per- She invited Beaux and friends to a
fect a new fragrance but eventually popular upmarket restaurant on the
he came up with 10 samples and Riviera to celebrate and decided to
presented them to Chanel. spray the perfume around the table.

They were numbered one to five Each woman that passed stopped
and 20 to 24. She picked number and asked what the fragrance was
five. and where it came from.

It is rumoured that the concoction "For Chanel this was the moment
was actually the result of a labora- that confirmed for her that it was
tory mistake. Beaux's assistant had going to be a revolutionary per-
added a dose of aldehyde in a quan- fume," says Mazzeo.
tity never used before.
"That was the first moment that
Tilar Mazzeo, author of The Secret anybody in the public smelled
of Chanel No 5, told the World Chanel No 5 and it literally stopped
Service's Witness programme why them in their tracks.
the fragrance grabbed Chanel.
"That moment consumers were
"The interesting thing about alde- smelling something they had never
hydes is that one of them smells smelled before, it was an interven-
like soap. tion in the history of perfume."

Chanel No. 5 The Chanel No 5 bot-

tle was designed to resemble a
whisky decanter

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Before I began my biography of
Coco Chanel, I knew what you
probably know: she was one of the
most famous fashion designers in
the world, who liberated women
from corsets, created the sexy little
black dress, and designed nubby
wool jackets with braid trim and
gold chains. Oh, yes, and those
black tipped beige sling-back shoes
and the quilted bag with chain han-
dle. And, of course, Chanel No. 5.
She was a genius, everyone said
and the model of a self-made, inde-
pendent woman.What I learned
along the way, as I researched the
life of this fascinating and infuriat-
ing woman, surprised me: women
had been liberated from the corset
long before Chanel arrived on the
scene, by the designers Paul Poiret
and Madeleine Vionnet. Many
other designers were creating cloth-
ing in soft jersey, with menswear
inspired lines, at the same time as
Chanel. Her little black dress which
I had pictured as low-cut and body-
skimming had long sleeves, a loose
dropped waistline, and looked like
it should be worn for a board meet-
ing rather than a nightclub in the
Roaring Twenties. And the boxy
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
jacket, shoes, and bag: those came
from Chanel's comeback in the
1950s, after she was already a stun-
ningly famous designer. I was sur-
prised, too, that she didn't sew and
couldn't draw; that she signed away
90% of her business to the compa-
ny that agreed to market her per-
fume, Chanel No. 5 (and spent the
rest of her career suing for restitu-
tion of her rights); and that she died
a lonely, bitter woman. Famous as
she was, she could be paranoid and
cruel. She lied to cover a past of
which she was ashamed; she lied to
cover her own insecurities. Even
though she has the reputation of
being independent and fearless, she
always yearned to find a man to
protect her. Being loved, she said,
was the most important goal a
woman could achieve. Without
love, and without a man, a woman
was nothing. Those ideas don't
sound very liberated, and yet, even
though her ideas about life and love
were widely known throughout her
life, Chanel was someone many
women wanted to
emulate.Certainly, she was a
genius; she had a fine intuition for
what women wanted to wear, an
904
amazing appreciation for fabric,
and infallible sense of line. But her
genius was not only for fashion.
Chanel was her own most famous
model. Slender and flat-chested,
she looked great in her own designs
in fact, she claimed that she first
tried on all of those designs herself
and women dieted and wore flatten-
ing bras to try to copy her figure an
impossible challenge for women
who were not, and never would be,
petite.She was brilliant at market-
ing herself as a celebrity, and one of
my goals in this biography is to
show how her public the women
who coveted her fashions and per-
fume helped to create her legend.
These women followed her flam-
boyant, and much publicized love
life (among her many lovers, she
was courted by the Duke of
Westminster and a Russian Grand
Duke, and had an affair with
Stravinsky); they saw photos of her
vacationing in Venice and Biarritz
and at fabulous parties in Paris and
London. She was photographed by
some of the most talented artists of
her time like Cecil Beaton and Man
Ray. One of the first print ads for
Chanel No. 5 showed Chanel her-
self, in a gorgeous beaded gown,
standing in her own elegant rooms
at the Ritz in Paris. She appeared in
fashion magazines along with her
famous friends, like Jean Cocteau,
Serge Diaghilev, Salvador Dali, and
a host of dukes and duchesses.
Before there were movie stars,
there was Chanel. And by the time
Gloria Swanson and Ina Claire
became famous, Chanel already
had been the epitome of glamour,
for decades.Today's print ads for
Chanel perfumes, featuring the
lithe and lovely Audrey Tautou per-
fectly capture the image of Chanel
that has persisted since the 1920s,
when she burst on the fashion
scene. She fashioned herself as a
beautiful romantic heroine,
ensconced in luxury, pursued by a
handsome lover. The legend is irre-
sistible even now, and Chanel is the
genius who created it.

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Who wouldn't like some Chanel?
Like Karl Lagerfeld, the linked Cs
have a cachet unique even to the
image-dependent world of fashion.
Something to do with history and a
certain mademoiselle, I suspect.
This of course makes the clothes,
the bags, the shoes and accessories
out of the reach of most of us but
there is Chanel makeup, with its
beautiful black and white packag-
ing and casings, and there is Chanel
perfume. And, from last Friday,
there is a new Chanel fragrance to
get excited about.
French women are known to
line up for each and every
Chanel perfume release, cre-
ating a Chanel ''wardrobe'' of
their own.
Chanel No. 19 Poudre is a new
interpretation of the iconic No. 19,
the last perfume Gabrielle ''Coco''
Chanel was involved in creating. It
is a clean, sexy modern perfume,
with an enveloping powdery iris
scent enhanced by smooth white
musks. It is a soft, light, velvety
musk, far less ''green'' and zesty
than the original. Chanel No. 19
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Poudre was released worldwide on Chanel perfume release, creating a
Friday because of the date: August Chanel ''wardrobe'' of their own).
19 is Coco's birthday (1883). The
creator of Chanel fragrances, Which Chanel perfume has it been
Jacques Polge says (in an obvious for you? The ubiquitous No. 5? The
translation from the French): “I 2009 version, Eau Premiere? Or do
wanted to underline the importance you like the smartly packaged
of iris at Chanel, while giving a makeup? There's nothing like
new facet to No. 19. The desire to whipping out a Chanel lipstick for
rework the original accord with some instant glamour. Do you like
other, more contemporary, powdery the fragrances or do you like the
notes, came naturally to me.” Well prestige of having a little piece of
done. Chanel?
It is the first ''new'' Chanel fra-
grance in two years and this taste of
Chanel comes at $234 for a 100ml
bottle of the eau de parfum and
$184 for a 100ml eau de toilette
(from major department stores
nationally). The original No. 19,
released in 1970, was considered a
daring combination of crisp green
notes and powdery iris. You would
no doubt recognise the square, sim-
ple bottle (the new version is in an
identical bottle) just as you would
be familiar with the scent. In fact I
suspect that it is not just French
women who own a Chanel fra-
grance or two (French women are
known to line up for each and every
906
It has long been known that
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel the leg-
endary French designer whose fash-
ion empire bears her name was, dur-
ing the Second World War, the lover
of a Nazi officer named Hans
Günther von Dincklage. But in
“Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco
Chanel’s Secret War,” the veteran
journalist and investigative reporter
Hal Vaughan offers convincing evi-
dence that she was also a Nazi intel-
ligence operative and an incorrigi-
ble anti-Semite.
Drawing on American, German,
French, and British archives,
Vaughan reveals that von Dincklage
and Chanel Abwehr Agent 7124
whose code name was
“Westminster” went on missions
around Europe to recruit new agents
for the Third Reich. And in what is
perhaps its most fascinating section,
“Sleeping with the Enemy” sheds
new light on Chanel’s dealings with
the famously tight-lipped
Wertheimer family, which pur-
chased a large stake of the business
in the nineteen-twenties and con-
trols the entire Chanel empire today.
Remarkably enough, the
Wertheimers despite Chanel’s
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wartime behavior ultimately decid- Chanel as a German agent, and,
ed to finance her reëstablishment in from then, I was off and running.
France and eventually agreed to pay
her bills for the rest of her life. To As your title makes clear, the book
this day, the family refuses to dis- emphasizes Coco Chanel’s wartime
cuss Coco Chanel with the media, life. Why has this story not received
but Vaughan still manages to paint much attention over the years?
an engrossing portrait of the deal-
ings between the two. I have no idea. I can’t figure it out.
Either people didn’t want to know
From Paris, Vaughan, who is eighty- or chose not to deal with it. Of
two, elaborated on some of the course, this story will not please the
questions his book raises. An edited Wertheimers, one of the richest fam-
version of our discussion appears ilies in the world. Other than that, I
below. have no idea why not.
How did you first become interested After the war, Chanel moved to
in the life of Coco Chanel? Switzerland. How was it possible
that she would ever be able to
I didn’t at first. Initially, I became reëstablish herself in France, as she
interested in the life of a man named did in the mid-nineteen-fifties?
H. Gregory Thomas, who was a
Wertheimer family agent sent to The simple answer is Wertheimer
Paris before the war broke out to try money: Chanel was backed by the
and stop Chanel from getting hold Wertheimers. But really there was
of the rights to Chanel No. 5 under also the fact that, by 1954, most
the Aryan laws. So I was chasing French people didn’t give a damn
the story of H. Gregory Thomas, about who collaborated and who
and, all of a sudden, I fell upon didn’t. De Gaulle had decided that
Coco Chanel. I started digging into all Frenchmen had been resisters,
the archives, and I came across all and all this collaboration business
this material about her. I found one was behind them. And let’s not for-
particular document that described get that Chanel was also tremen-
907
dously talented.
After everything Chanel had done to
Paul Wertheimer, why did he ulti-
mately agree to finance the reëstab-
lishment of her couture house in
1954? And why did he consent to
pay all her expenses large and small
for the rest of her life?
From the point of view of the
Wertheimers, the decision was
extremely logical. What they were
doing is not buying a business but
rather an empire for a lifetime, and
indeed that’s what it’s been. Here
we are in 2011 can you go to any
major city without seeing a Chanel
store? It’s the unique mark in the
world today.
Especially in France a nation still
grappling with the legacy of collab-
oration how is it possible that the
Chanel brand today bears almost
none of the stigma assigned to other
brands often associated with Nazi
complicity
The work of Robert Paxton never
quite rubbed off on our memory of
Chanel and for a simple reason. She
is essentially a hard-currency
machine. Chanel is an icon, an idol
in France never mind the details of
her life, her anti-Semitism, her deal-
ings with the Nazis. Interestingly
enough, I should mention that the
French have not bought my book at
least not yet. It’s coming out in
America and in Britain and in
Germany. It’s been translated in
Portuguese and translated into
Dutch. But the French have yet to
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buy the book.
Given Coco Chanel’s wartime past,
what do you make of the promi-
nence and popularity of the Chanel
brand today? Should anyone still
wear Chanel?
I have no feelings against Chanel.
You can’t put someone like Klaus
Barbie and Chanel in the same cate-
gory: she didn’t kill anybody; she
didn’t torture anybody. Madame
Gabrielle Labrunie Chanel’s grand-
niece said something to me that I
found fascinating. She said to me:
“You know, Mr. Vaughan, these
were very difficult times, and peo-
ple had to do very terrible things to
get along.” Chanel was, very simply
put, an enormous opportunist who
did what she had to do to get along.
If, as you say, you have no feelings
against Chanel, what was your
motive in writing this book?
I didn’t write this book to haunt
Chanel. It was just a good story. I’m
a newsman, and I have been since I
was an apprentice on the New York
Daily News in the nineteen-fifties.
It’s just as simple as that.
908
A media report has it that a fra-
grance smell-alike of Coco
Mademoiselle by Chanel called
Suddenly Madame Glamour (you
just need a spritz and you are sud-
denly glamorous) unconventionally
distributed by the Soviet-store-of-
yesteryear-inspired German super-
market Lidl is experiencing a
smashing success. Why? Because
blind test panels have all voted for
the Lidl expression of Coco
Mademoiselle, available for a frac-
tion of the price...
Smell-alikes are a frequent occur-
rence in the fragrance industry and
the mass-market sector can be par-
ticularly welcoming to those
although it also can harbor hidden
gems which were clearly created to
be pillar perfumes for the masses,
in the best sense possible. Knowing
the scale of its reach, a perfumer
will be particularly attentive and
serious about the endeavor.
Can a classic be improved upon by
a mass-market rendition of it is the
intriguing question the reported The Perfumer's Guild is apparently
success of Suddenly Madame the name of a niche perfumery
Glamour poses. One would need to rather than that a guild per se. It
experience the scent in actuality in was founded by John Bailey in
order to understand the aesthetic 1981, who is quoted in the article.
choices that may tip the scale in
favor of a smell-alike. It could be, Lidl Beats Chanel in the Battle of
for instance, that it is softer, more the Perfumes
skin-like and thus will be evaluated
more positively for that reason. Or
it could be that it is more tenacious.
Meanwhile here is what we can
read,
"Two independent consumer panel
blind tests carried out by the presti-
gious Perfumer's Guild on the Lidl
Suddenly Madame Glamour £3.99
for 50ml EDP (Eau de Parfum)
against Chanel's £61 for 50ml EDP
Coco Mademoiselle yielded amaz-
ing results. 50 women in the first
test voted tremendously for the Lidl
brand with 89% saying they would
prefer to wear it over the Chanel's
brand and a staggering 90% of the
100 women who blind tested the
perfumes in the second round said
they also preferred the Lidl's
brand."

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Chanel No. 19 was Coco Chanel’s
personal fragrance, said to have
been named in part for the supersti-
tious designer’s August 19 birth
date, and a few other numerological
reasons. The crisp green floral, cre-
ated by Henri Robert in 1970 and
introduced at market a year or so
later, is mossy and aromatic. On the
occasion of the scent’s 40th
anniversary, Chanel in-house per-
fumer Jacques Polge has revisited
the original formula and the result
is No. 19 Poudré ($97 for 50ml eau
de toilette, exclusively at The Bay).
Nathalie Atkinson and Dave Lackie
unbottle the reworked myth and
take an honest whiff.
He Says:
Think of this as the season’s anti-
perfume. It’s a powdery green with-
out a trace of fruit or floral notes.
It’s fresh and interesting. It’s a fra-
grance that you wear, not that wears
you. Understated and well-
designed. 3.5 out of 4 noses
She Says:
True to its name this new take has a
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much more powdery, dusty feeling
thanks to top quality iris pallida
root. There’s also a little bit of
almond, of bracingly dry and rather
masculine vetiver and then, its
opposite: a touch of plush white
musk. Perfume critic Luca Turin
described the original No. 19 as a
woman “haughty and immune to
sweetness;” if so, then Poudré is
her gentler sister. By softening
those distinctive spiky edges, she’s
more approachable but just that
much less interesting. 3 out of 4
noses
Still scent-curious? Browse the
Sniff Test archives here.
910
Unlike any other figure in fashion archives. The book's central claim is profiteer. Vaughan writes that he
history, Coco Chanel continues to that she was not merely a passive was really a "Nazi master spy" who
hold a fascination decades after her collaborator but actually an agent of reported directly to Joseph
death. An orphan who scaled the the Abwehr German intelligence Goebbels.
heights of the French haute couture, agency with her own code name
she introduced women to jersey Westminster, after her former lover
When it comes to Chanel's espi-
sportswear and created the little the Duke of Westminster who con- onage, the book's smoking gun is a
black dress. She was also a German ducted secret missions to Berlin and
police document that identifies her
spy during World War II, according Madrid. as Agent F-7124. A copy of the doc-
to Hal Vaughan's new book, ument is included in the book,
"Sleeping With the Enemy: Coco There was already plenty in the although it is so difficult to read,
Chanel's Secret War." designer's background worthy of one wonders why it was not blown
mythmaking. She sang in a cabaret, up larger.
The author cites declassified where she earned her nickname
documents in declaring that "Coco" after performing a song with Most "horizontal collaborators"
fashion designer Coco Chanel the name in the title. She was kept were imprisoned or executed after
was a wartime spy for as a kind of modern-day courtesan the war ended. Many of them were
Germany. by several aristocratic men who paraded naked through the streets,
helped bankroll her business. She their hair shaved into swastikas. But
The truth behind Chanel's drug habit created the perfume that Marilyn Chanel escaped unscathed, by many
and lesbian affairs, that is. Monroe famously said was the only accounts because British Prime
thing she wore to bed. She never Minister Winston Churchill inter-
Sleeping With the Enemy married. vened on her behalf.

Coco Chanel's Secret War
Hal Vaughan
Alfred A. Knopf: 280 pps., $27.95
To make his case, Vaughan, a U.S.
journalist and historian, cites newly
declassified documents and French,
American, German and English
Chanel's life from 1941 to 1944 has
always been shrouded in mystery. It
has been well publicized that she
remained in Paris at the Hotel Ritz
during the German occupation and
that she had a long affair with Hans
Gunther von Dincklage, a German
officer described in various books
as a tennis player, playboy and war
Even if the book's central claim is
true, what remains unclear is
Chanel's motivations. Vaughan
makes the suggestion that she was
"fiercely" anti-Semitic, but nowhere
in the book does he provide
irrefutable evidence to back it up.
His account leaves open the possi-

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bility that Chanel was indifferent to
politics and unwilling to give up her
pampered life (she had servants and
a driver, even as much of the rest of
France was struggling) but may not
have been anti-Semitic. Chanel had
a nephew in a German prison camp
and could have cooperated to the
extent that she had to to secure his
release and ensure her comfort
through the war. And Chanel did go
into business with a Jewish family
the Wertheimers before the war, and
that family still owns the company
today, with Karl Lagerfeld at the
helm.
Still, whatever her motivation, it's
curious that she never publicly
addressed her involvement.
(Vaughan writes that she went so far
as to "buy the silence" of those who
knew about her Abwehr activities.
Chanel moved to Switzerland,
joined for some time by Von
Dincklage, before returning to Paris
to stage a fashion comeback in
1954. She died in 1971.
as an intermediary between the
Allies and the Germans for a peace
settlement known as Operation
Modelhut."
Other than causing a minor stir on
the Internet, the book doesn't appear
to have in any way slowed the $ 3-
billion luxury brand or stopped
women from carrying Chanel's
iconic quilted chain bags.
Those looking for a more complete
portrait of the designer may want to
look elsewhere and they may not
have to wait too long. As a testa-
ment to the designer's enduring cult
of personality nearly 60 books have
been written about her another biog-
raphy, Lisa Chaney's "Coco Chanel:
An Intimate Life" (Penguin) is com-
ing out in November. Using newly
discovered love letters and journals,
the book promises to reveal the
truth.

After the book's publication, the

Chanel company defended its name-
sake designer. "She would hardly
have ... counted Jewish people
among her close friends and profes-
sional partners such as the
Rothschild family, the photographer
Irving Penn or the well-known
French writer Joseph Kessel had
these really been her views," a
Chanel spokesman told British
Vogue. "We also know that she and
[Winston] Churchill were close
friends for a long time. She appar-
ently approached him about acting

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Gabrielle Chanel better known as
Coco was a wretched human being.
Anti-Semitic, homophobic, social
climbing, opportunistic, ridiculous-
ly snobbish and given to sins of
phrase-making like “If blonde, use
blue perfume,” she was addicted to
morphine and actively collaborated
with the Germans during the Nazi
occupation of Paris. And yet, her
clean, modern, kinetic designs,
which brought a high-society look
to low-regarded fabrics, revolution-
ized women’s fashion, and to this
day have kept her name synony-
mous with the most glorious notions
of French taste and élan.
Sleeping With the Enemy
Coco Chanel’s Secret War
By Hal Vaughan
Illustrated. 279 pp. Alfred A.
Knopf. $ 27.95.
Exploring the contradictory com-
plexities of this woman, at once so
very awful and so very talented,
should make for fascinating and
enlightening reading. After all,
Chanel’s life offers biographers a
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
trove of juicy material. Chanel was
a creative genius, her own expertly
polished self-presentation perhaps
the greatest triumph of her brilliant-
ly inventive mind. She was born in
1883 in a hospice for the poor in the
Loire Valley, to unwed parents of
peasant stock and, upon her moth-
er’s death, was placed at age 12 in a
convent-orphanage to be raised by
Roman Catholic nuns. This left her
with a lifelong fear of losing every-
thing. The point is nicely captured
by Hal Vaughan in “Sleeping With
the Enemy,” who quotes her as say-
ing: “From my earliest childhood
I’ve been certain that they have
taken everything away from me,
that I’m dead.”
She was put to work as a seamstress
at age 20 and took the name Coco
from a song she liked to sing in a
rowdy cafe patronized by cavalry
officers. One ex-officer, the wealthy
Étienne Balsan, installed her in his
chateau, taught her to conduct her-
self with high style on horseback
and, generally, gave her the skills
she needed to make her way up
through society. Balsan also intro-
duced her to Arthur (Boy) Capel, a
friend who soon became Chanel’s
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first great love, and who also, con-
veniently, set her up in a Paris apart-
ment and helped her start her first
business venture, designing sleekly
simple women’s hats.
It wasn’t long before Chanel took
Jazz Age Paris by storm, liberating
women from their corsets, draping
them in jersey and long strings of
pearls and dousing them with the
scent of modernity, Chanel No. 5.
She caroused with Igor Stravinsky
and Pablo Picasso, designed cos-
tumes for Serge Diaghilev's Ballets
Russes and amused herself with the
cash-poor White Russian aristocra-
cy. As her personal fortunes rose,
she turned her attention to making
serious inroads into British high
society, befriending Winston
Churchill and the Prince of Wales
and becoming, most notably, the
mistress of the Duke of
Westminster, Hugh Richard Arthur
Grosvenor (known as Bendor),
reputedly the wealthiest man in
England.
Bendor’s and Chanel’s anti-
-Semitism was vociferous and well
documented; the pro-Nazi sensibili-
ties of the Duke of Windsor and
many in his circle have long been
noted, too. All this, it appears, made
the society of the British upper crust
particularly appealing to Chanel. As
Vaughan notes, after she was lured
by a million-dollar fee to spend a
few weeks in Hollywood in 1930
Samuel Goldwyn, he writes, “did
his best to keep Jews away from
Chanel” she found herself com-
pelled to run straight back to
England, so that she could wash
away her brush with vulgarity in “a
bath of nobility.”
It wasn’t much of a stretch, then, for
Chanel, during wartime, to find her-
self the mistress of the German
intelligence officer Baron Hans
Günther von Dincklage, a charming
character who had spied on the
French fleet in the late 1920s, and
who found himself pleasingly single
in occupied Paris, having prescient-
ly divorced his half-Jewish German
wife just before the passage of the
Nuremberg Laws. It wasn’t any par-
ticular betrayal of her values, or
morals or ideals either, for Chanel to
find herself traveling to Madrid and
Berlin to engage in cloak-and-dag-
ger machinations with her country’s
occupier.
The story of how Coco became
Chanel has been told many times
before over the past half-century,
most recently (and, sad to say, much
more engagingly) in last year’s
“Coco Chanel: The Legend and the
Life,” by the British fashion colum-
nist Justine Picardie. The story of
how Chanel metamorphosed from a
mere “horizontal collaborator” the
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com
mistress of a Nazi into an actual
German secret agent has been less
well known, though earlier writers
have reported that she had worked
for the Germans. It’s here that
Vaughan makes his freshest contri-
bution, using a wealth of materials
gleaned from wartime police files
and intelligence archives, some of
which were only recently declassi-
fied by French and German authori-
ties, to flesh out precisely how and
why she became an agent, and how
she sought to profit from her
German connections during the war.
Vaughan ably charts Chanel’s clever
opportunism as she works, first, to
free her nephew André Palasse from
a German prisoner-of-war camp,
and later seeks to use the Nazis’
Aryanization of property laws to
wrest control of her perfume empire
away from the Jewish Wertheimer
brothers. Yet his account of her one
real mission for the Germans a 1943
covert operation code-named
Modellhut (“model hat”) in which
she was meant to use her contacts to
get a message to Winston Churchill
from the SS stating that a number of
leading Nazis wanted to break with
Adolf Hitler and negotiate a sepa-
rate peace with England emerges
neither clearly nor logically from
his highly detailed telling. Too
many diplomatic documents are
reproduced at too much length.
Contradictions are not clearly sorted
out. Vaughan seems to have felt as
though his rich source materials
could speak for themselves, but they
don’t and he doesn’t succeed in
lending authority to the accounts of
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contemporary witnesses who were,
undoubtedly, unreliable.
Despite her indisputable collabora-
tionist activities, and after a brief
period of uncertainty during which
she was questioned by a French
judge, Chanel eventually got off
pretty much scot-free after the war,
once again using her wiles to protect
herself most expertly. She tipped off
the poet and anti-Nazi partisan
Pierre Reverdy, a longtime occa-
sional lover, so that he could
arrange the arrest of her wartime
partner in collaboration, Baron
Louis de Vaufreland Piscatory; she
paid off the family of the former
Nazi chief of SS intelligence Gen.
Walter Schellenberg when she heard
that he was preparing to publish his
memoirs. (It was Schellenberg who
had given her the “model hat”
assignment.) Vaughan could have
done better in providing the context
to the seemingly incomprehensible
ease of Chanel’s reintegration into
French fashion and society, telling
more, for example, of the wide-
spread desire for forgetting and
moving forward that held sway in
Charles de Gaulle's postwar France.
These weaknesses of authorial voice
and critical judgment run through
“Sleeping With the Enemy.”
Vaughan, a retired diplomat who
has made his home in Paris, has
allowed his writing to become a bit
too imbued with the reflexive verbal
tics and general vive-la-séduction
silliness of his adopted country.
“Sometimes the kitten, sometimes
the vamp, and often the vixen, she
must have melted Bendor’s knees”
is how he captures Chanel in her
40s; “beautiful and sexy, her silhou-
ette stunning,” he appraises her in
her 50s. (Indeed, his English often
sounds like French the most cloying
sort of breathy French in transla-
tion.) Despite all he knows about
Chanel, Vaughan often appears to be
as beguiled, disarmed and charmed
by Coco as were the men in her life
not to mention the countless women
who have sought over the decades
to cloak themselves in her image.
And like them, he never gets beyond
the self-protecting armor of her
myth.

Judith Warner, a former special cor-

respond-ent for Newsweek in Paris,
is the author, most recently, of
“We’ve Got Issues: Children and
Parents in the Age of Medication.”

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Chanel have introduced their latest
perfume in Les Exclusifs collec-
tion. As previously mentioned, it is
called Jersey. The fragrance is said
to rest upon key notes of lavender,
vanilla and white musk and to be
evocative of the greenery of the
countryside.
Master Perfumer Jacques Polge. An
inspired composition, Jersey is
evocative of a meadow lush with
lavender an essence previously
worn only by men. A tender trail of
Vanilla and Musk brings femininity
to the forefront, and a rare, sophis-
ticated new scent is born."

At the same time, its intent suggests Prices: $ 110 and $ 210.
a coup, a bit à la Jicky by Guerlain
only in reverse and voluntary this
time a lavender which was
embraced by men and shunned by
women, offered today to be reap-
propriated by both sexes.

"Jersey, a fabric Coco Chanel

prized for its ease and fluidity, freed
women from the constraining fash-
ions of their day. This inspired new
fragrance, with its elegant marriage
of lavender, vanilla and white
musk, recaptures that same spirit of
liberation."

"As light and liberating as the mod-

ern fabric for which it was named
daringly appropriated from
menswear by Coco Chanel for
women's fashions Jersey is the new
fragrance masterpiece from Chanel

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Jacques Polge, the head perfumer at Chanel’s No. 19 Poudre and Les
Chanel, has unveiled that the Exclusifs Jersey are said to be
French fashion house is launching available in stores in fall 2011 or
two new perfumes. Speaking with you can order online.
WWD, Polge revealed Chanel is
reworking the classic Chanel No.
19, named ‘No. 19 Poudre’, which
will focus on the more delicate,
lighter aspects in the formula and
introduced the upcoming Chanel
Les Exclusifs Jersey.

Of note, Mademoiselle Coco

Chanel’s birthday is August 19th.
And which famous place in Paris
inspired Gabrielle Chanel for the
design of the No. 19 Poudre bottle?
The cap represents the distinctive
shape of the Place Vendôme in
Paris.

“We’ve found some new musks

that are very interesting, and we’re
working a lot at the moment on iris,
which is a very important ingredi-
ent in No. 19 Poudre. We have our
plantations in Grasse, with rose and
jasmine, and we’re trying to find
new qualitites in those. But we’re
also trying to reproduce what was
done 40 years ago, that nobody
does anymore,” Polge stated.

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Gabrielle Chanel’s last scent has perfumer Jacques Polge as a more exactly what she likes, no matter
been reinvented; it’s delicate yet floral EDP compared with its pred- what.
sophisticated. ecessor.
The development of the fragrance
What’s in a number? And it’s not This year, Polge adds a new chapter required considerable technological
just any other number either think to the N°19 story by coming up means: the latest generation of the
N°5, and a famous scent comes to with a delicate yet sophisticated most sophisticated, beautifully soft
mind. The same goes for N°19, N°9 Poudre, a new reworked soft and light musks was selected. Iris
which made its debut in 1970. and lightly musk version. It carries absolute, the epicentre of chic, can
a light green silky nectar that dif- be found in all versions of N°19,
The perfume house in question is fuses grasse neroli and mandarin. from the eau de toilette to the new
Chanel, and if you’re wondering Then iris pallida appears, clinging N°19 Poudre.
wondering about the randomness of to the dry swirls of Haitian vetiver
the numerical sequence, it’s root, bringing hints of powder cases Of all the iris varieties, the pallida
because Gabrielle Chanel’s birth- and lipstick wax. Iris completes the was chosen by Chanel. Once com-
day falls on Aug 19. picture, enveloped in velvety white monly grown in Italy, this variety
musk and Tonka bean. has no scent.
The iconic Chanel N°19 has been
reimagined to suit modern trends. “I wanted to underline the impor- The part of the plant used is the rhi-
tance of iris at Chanel, while giving zome, which holds molecular treas-
Created by Henri Robert at the a new facet to N°19,” revealed ures upon reaching maturity after
height of the women’s revolution, Polge in a press statement. “The three years.
N°19 is a bold fragrance, a daring desire to rework the original accord
combination of crisp green notes with other, more contemporary, Once harvested, it must be peeled
and powdery iris. Considered the powdery notes, came naturally to and then dried to reveal its famous
last fragrant masterpiece from the me.” irones, which give it its olfactory
rebellious Gabrielle, it was and still power.
is aimed at women who have a taste N°19 woman:
for all things avant-garde and It takes 13 tonnes of fresh rhizomes
exceptional. She draws attention to herself to obtain eight tonnes of dried
wherever she goes. There is some- roots, ready to be steam-distilled
Then in 1988, it was reimagined by thing daring about her, and she does and transformed into “iris butter”,

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then iris absolute. This phenomenal
quantity of rhizomes yields just 1kg
of precious nectar.

Special blooms: The Iris from the

Pallida variety is specially chosen
for Chanel N°19.

“Ground iris rhizomes were long

used to powder the hair and face,”
explains the perfumer. “This gave
me the idea of adding another type
of powdery note to the formula and
using the new generation of musk
that is available today.” In keeping
with the original composition,
N°19 Poudre still has that same
light, velvety feel, a subtle caress
on the skin.

The N°19 woman is described as

someone who “draws attention to
herself wherever she goes. There is
something daring about her, and
she does exactly what she likes, no
matter what”. It is claimed that
women who wear the scent are
loyal fans as it expresses their per-
sonality and vitality.

The bottle is understated and

extremely simple. Square and
abstract, it is identical to its presti-
gious predecessor: the exact oppo-
site of what is expected for a
women’s fragrance.

Chanel N°19 Poudre is priced at

RM296 (50ml) and RM436
(100ml). Available at all Chanel
counters.

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