Stitch Class 100: Chain Stitch

Introduction
The stitches formed here are from one or more needle by the method of intralooping. Thus, one
or more loops of the needle thread are passed through the fabric and secured by looping with the
next loop of the same thread after they are passed through the fabric.These look similar to that of
lockstitch on the face side with the loops on the back.

METHOD OF STITCH FORMTION

According to ISO 4915 standard, a stitch is one unit of conformation resulting from one or more
strands or loops of thread based on the following three principles :

1. Intralooping e passing a loop of thread through another loop by the same thread. E.g.
Stitch type 401

2. Interlooping e passing a loop of thread through another loop formed by a different

thread.Stitch type 101
 3. Interlacing e passing a thread over or around another thread or a loop of another thread.
Stitch type 101

STITCH PROPERTIES

a. Stitch size

Stitch size has three dimensions: length width, and depth. Each may affect the aesthetic,
durability, and cost of a garment.

 Length: stitch length is specified as the number of stitch per inch (SPI) and can be an
indicator of quality. High SPI means short stitch length and low SPI means long stitch
length. Stitch length X SPI = 1.
  Width: the horizontal span covered in the formation of one stitch or single line of
stitching. Stitch width must be specified for certain classes of stitches. Zigzag, overedge
and covering chain stitch that have width dimension.

 Depth : is the distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch

b.    Tension

Tension ensures a uniform supply of thread and determine how well stitches conformed to the
standard formation. Tension is controlled by adjusting a screw that holds the pressure disk. Too
much tension causes the seam pucker, uneven stitch . 

c.    Stitch consistency

Stitch consistency is the uniformity with which each the stitch is formed in a row of stitch. Each
stitch should be exactly like the previous stitch.

STITCH FORMATION

According to the Mihailovic process of

forming a chain stitch, there are several
phases of stitch formation as follows ( fig
-------).

 At first the needle thread slacks at

the position where the needle
slightly goes up from its lowest
position, and the looper catches the
needle thread, which has become
like a loop.
 Then needle comes off the cloth and
the cloth is fed. The looper rotates and removes the thread that the looper caught before
while pulling in the needle thread. The needle bar continues going up and the needle
thread take-up lever lifts the thread.
 The looper continues rotating and pulls in the thread in the centre of the looper, and the
thread take-up lever tightens the thread which the looper removed before.
  Cloth feed is finished and a stitch is formed. The needle penetrates into the cloth to
continue to the next stitch.

Different Types of Sewing Stitches by Their Class

Textile stitch types-classification and terminology, stitches are catalogued into six classes (as per
BS3870/ASTM D-6193/ISO 4915:1991). The international and standardization uses the identical
numbering.Each class is further divided into several types which are identified by the second and
the third digit.

1. Stitch Class 100: (single thread chain stitch ) : It is formed with one or more needle threads
introduced from one side of the material only.
 No. of Subdivided Classes = 7
 Types = 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 107, 108
2. Class 200: is a hand stitch type, is formed by single thread passed from one side of the material
to the other in successive needle penetrations.
 No. of Subdivided Classes = 13
 Types = 201, 202, 204, 205, 206, 209, 211, 213, 214,215, 217, 219, 220

3. Class 300: is a lock stitch type, is formed by a needle thread or threads, introduced from one
side of the material, interlacing with an under thread  supplied from a bobbin on the other side.
 No. of Subdivided Classes = 27
 Types = 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307, 308, 309,310, 311, 312, 313, 314,
315, 316, 317, 318,319, 320, 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 326, 327
4. Class 400: is multi thread chain stitch type, is formed with two/more groups of threads having
general characteristic of interlacing interloping of the loops of the two groups.
 No. of Subdivided Classes = 17
 Types = 401, 402, 403, 404, 405, 406, 407, 408, 409,410, 411, 412, 413, 414,
415, 416, 417
5. Class 500: is over lock over edge stitch type, is formed with one or more needles and/or loopier
threads with at least one thread passing round the edge of the material being sewn.
 No. of Subdivided Classes = 15
  Types = 501, 502, 503, 504, 505, 506, 507, 506, 509,510, 511, 512, 513, 514, 521
6. Class 600: is formed with two or more groups of threads, has for a general characteristic
that two groups of thread cover surfaces of the material.
 No. of Subdivided Classes = 9
 Types = 601, 602, 603, 604, 605, 606, 607, 608, 609.

1) Stitch Class 100: Chain Stitch

Introduction
The stitches formed here are from one or more needle by the method of intralooping.
Thus, one or more loops of the needle thread are passed through the fabric and secured by
looping with the next loop of the same thread after they are passed through the
fabric.These look similar to that of lockstitch on the face side with the loops on the back.

APPEARANCE

Its appearance on the right side is different from the wrong side. On the right side it
makes a plain stitching, meanwhile, there is a kind of chain on the reverse.

Area of Application

 Lap & flap positioning

 Temporary joining

 Basting

 Hemming

 Blind stitching

 Buttonholing, Button attaching purpose

 Hemming
Sub Class-101– Single thread chainstitch

Stitch Type 101 is one of the simplest of all chain stitch, which is formed from a single thread. It
can only be used where the marks of needle penetration close up afterwards in pressing. Its main
disadvantage is its tendency to run back from the finishing end of the seam.

Uses

It is used for basting operations in manufacturing garment because it can be easily removed (in
positions such as edges, flaps, collars, and so on, it is a temporary stitch).

Diagram

Sub Class-103 ( Single thread Blind Blindstitch hemming )

This stitch Type 103 is formed by using a curved needle which enters and exits the fabric from
the same side carrying a needle thread. The needle thread interloops with a blind looper on the
surface of the material. Again its main disadvantage is seam runback.
Uses

 Bottom hemming of dress pants.

 lapel padding operations.

ADVANTAGE

The added advantage of these loops is that it makes the stitch elastic and thus can be used where
the fabric needs a little stretch such as in back neck tape in t-shirts.

DISADVANTAGE
 This type of stitch is very insecure as each loop is dependent on the next loop and a single
thread breakage can pull apart the entire stitch.

 Particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch.