Session title:- “Sewing Process”

Session By
Kavita Pathare,
Associate Professor,
Department of Fashion Technology
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai
 Cut parts Bulk
received from production In line
the cutting inspection Production
begins
room continues

Button-button End line

Ironing Rough checking
hole/ bartack checking

Measurement
Final checking Tagging Packing
checking

QA audit by the
Ex - factory
buying house

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 Sewing
department

Sewing Machines Seams and stitches Production system

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 Thread-guides
Thumb-nut screw

Stitch
Take-up lever regulator

Tension discs/check-
spring

Needle bar

Needle Reversing lever

Throat plate
Needle guard Machine bed
Presser foot

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Needle Bar

Needle Throat plate

Needle Eye

Presser Foot

Feed Dog

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On the basis of Sewing Machines
There are three main types of machines are the Lock stitch, Chain stitch and Overlock
machines
LOCK STITCH (300 Class) gives a straight seam, most secure. Single needle, twin
needle, zigzag, blind hemming, Button hole and Button sewing. ----------------
CHAIN STITCH (100 & 400 CLASS) gives a chain effect, looping, it is not as secure as
the lock stitch or serging. Single needle, twin needle, blind stitch hemming, Button
hole, Button Sewing
OVERLOCK STITCH (500 CLASS) is the same principle as chain stitch. It gives an edge
principle as well as sews the fabric together ideal for knits as it gives stretch.
FLAT LOCK STITCH (600 CLASS) is on the similar principle as chain stitch with cover stitch.
Used for Knits & lingerie.
OTHER TYPES
SAFETY OVERLOCK: - which is a combination of Overlock and chain stitch.
BLIND STITCH HEMMING MACHINE: - based on chain stitch.
BUTTON MACHINE:- Sews button onto the garments chain stitch.
BUTTON HOLE MACHINE:-is essentially a zigzag lock stitch. Makes a button hole and
cuts it. May also give chain stitch.
PROGRAMMABLE MACHINE: - where certain operations can be programmed into the
machine. (Semi Automatic)
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• Formation of Single Thread Chain Stitch
Intralooping is passing of a loop thread through another loop
formed by the same thread.
• Formation of Two Thread Chain, Overlock & Flat lock Stitch
Interlooping is the passing of a loop of thread through another
loop formed by a different thread.
• Formation of Single Needle Lock Stitch
Interlacing is passing of a thread over or around another
thread or loop of another thread.

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Stitch forming devices

Stitch Device used

Lock stitch Bobbin hook
Chain stitch Looper
Over lock Looper and spreader
Flat lock Looper & Cover spreader

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By Kavita Pathare Assoc. Prof. NIFT Mumbai
The bobbin of a lock stitch machine

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By Kavita Pathare Assoc. Prof. NIFT Mumbai
• Variations in machines shape are available that enable easier
movement of the materials around the machine.
• These variations primarily effect the shape of the bed of the
machine i.e. the part on which the materials rest.
• Bed is the part of a sewing machine on which the fabric rests
while it is being sewed.

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• FLAT BED

• POST BED

• RAISED BED

• SIDE BED

• CYLINDER BED

• FEED-OFF-THE-ARM BED
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• MOST common and basic type.
• USED for a large and open
garment part to be handled easily
• STITCH type- Lockstitch and chain
stitch.
• CLOTH PLATE – mounted
horizontally on the bed.
• ALLOWS manipulation for top
stitching and lapped seaming.
• SEWS together two or more pieces
of flat goods.
• WIDE range of applications.

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• USED for small, curved( concave or
convex) parts of a garment.
• STITCH type- lockstitch and chain
stitch.
• CLOTH PLATE attached to the top of a
narrow platform.
• INCREASED working height and
vertical hook in a post.
• SPECIAL APPLICATIONS – Footwear
industry
shoes, bags, umbrellas, boots,
caps

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• CLOTH PLATE-in the form of a plinth.

• STITCH TYPE- Lock stitch, chain stitch

• TRIMS the edge of the fabric.

• FACILITATES the assembly of pre-

sewn parts

• USES-fitting of accessories and

special attachments such as button
hole, button stitch.

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• Stitch type- Chain stitch and
overedge stitches.

• Features and uses- Machines which

are specialized for sewing at edges
need only a small working area .

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• USED for sewing small, curved or
otherwise awkward in shape.
• STITCH TYPE-lock stitch and chain
stitch.
• INCREASED working height and a
horizontal arm bed.
• CLOTH PLATE –located at the upper
end of a horizontal cylinder.
• APPLICATIONS –tubular parts.
such as cuffs, sleeves, trouser legs
and button sewing and bar
tacking.
Extensively used for knitted
fabrics.
• SPECIAL TYPES
Feed up, Off the arm, Open arm
and Long arm.

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• U SHAPED with one end of the U
under the sewing head.

• STITCH TYPE- lockstitch and chain

stitch.

• USED for closing a tube such as

inseam of jeans

• PERMITS operators to sew cylinders

(sleeves with lap seam), without the
extraction of the sewed cylinder from
the bed.

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