STITCZEHS

IN SI
8-26
*
vary
rn sizes may
only. Patte
*UK sizes

The UK’s Best-selling Sewing Mag!

14 SIZZLING
Summer Looks
JULY 2021
ISSUE 151 £9.99

PARK-TO-PUB JERSEY SHIFT · COMFY KIDDIE ROMPER

HERO HOODIE TOP · ULTIMATE LACE COLLAR TEE

Look chic in
the heat!
IDEAL FIRST
GARMENT
QUICK DENIM
CLASSIC

W in!
£500
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“Sewing Bee changed mAFyT CAliREfeER!”S
THE HIT SHOW THAT’S CATAPULTING CR
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 Summer
SEWING AHEAD
Meet our unny staycations at the beach aren’t far off the horizon, and
EXPERTS
S this month we couldn’t resist bringing a nautical touch to
our projects. So, before you drift on down to the dunes,
be sure to stitch yourself a sunglasses case (p59), reversible SIMPLICITY 8375, P1
0
beach hat (p56), plus an embroidered bag to keep your favourite
cozzie (p68) and towel close to hand.
For those of you who prefer a stroll along the promenade to
a day in the surf – you can achieve coastal chic with the four
Mimi G
shares her pattern stretch knit dresses of Simplicity 8375, then complete your look
picks for the
summer season with one of the three throw-on jackets from Simplicity 9124.
Your wardrobe will also be saying a warm hello to a selection of
easy-breezy garments, including a classic denim skirt (p24),
statement summer dress (p17), and a jersey hoodie (p20).
Thanks to our fabulous range of home accessories, the sand
in your shoes won’t be the only element of beach life that you
will be bringing into your household, as you will find an adorable
Stuart Hillard seagull mascot over on page 48, not to mention a beach hut
embraces the
doorstop (p52) and a personalised nautical cushion (p66). After G, P40
ancient art of
shibori dyeing
DRAWSTRING BA
riding the rocky waves of the last year or so, there has never
been a better time to embrace calm waters, clear skies, and a
summer of nautical stitching. Subscribe
Anchors aweigh!
TODAY!
2 FREE*
Lucy Lucy Jobber, Editor FABRICS
Debbie Shore
reveals the
trick to perfect
Plus Dress
princess seams Pattern
See p54
FREE
Cover image: BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourdillon

TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD Ahoy there
sewmag.co.uk
/templates
stitchers! Make our
skirt on page 24
Our exclusive
patterns are
available to
download in sizes
BEACH HUT DOO
8-24 NAUTICAL CUSHION, P6
6 RSTOP, P52
We sew it, so you can
trust it! Our mission
is to help you create

We love to hear from you... items we know

you'll love; it's why
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are made and tested
Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix
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by experienced
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3
sewmag.co.uk
68 July 2021

66
Contents
42

52

In Every Issue
3 Welcome
Come and say hello!
6 Who, what, wear
What’s trending in
50
the sewing world

Chosen
44 Sew social 30 Dear Sew... 52 Beach hut stop
You’ve been sharing Top tips for toy making Deck out your door with
your makes 36 Don't bee a stranger this beautiful make
75 Shop and sew We caught up with the alumni 56 Seaside collection
The team’s round-up 65 Stuart Hillard You’ll love these playful
for July beach essentials! 54 Subscriptions
Our columnist tries shibori
Receive a storage and
76 Digital digest 90 10 minutes with... 66 Nautical Cushion Set
pattern bundle
Check out what we Wendy Ward chats Master the art of appliqué
have to offer online 61 Giveaways
sustainable sewing 68 Swimming pouch Enter to win over
82 Sew book club Stitch a beautiful accessory
The latest must-reads Home & Gifts 72 Patchwork bag
£1,000 of prizes

84 Sewing school 41 Stripy scrap busters Make the most of your

The jargon explained! Celebrate the seaside with Janome machine
89 Next month these nautical makes
Our August issue’s out
on 24th June 2021
42 Sidney the seagull
Sew this lovely marine bird 56
Tea Break 50 Blue whales
Stitch these delightful
27 Mimi G Tilda sea creatures
Our new columnist shares
summer pattern picks

4
sewmag.co.uk
31 2 PATTERNS

92
PACKED PAGES OF
PATTERNS & PROJECTS
INSIDE!
USE YOUR GIFTS TO SEW
SIX FAB GARMENTS!

24
24 Suzy skirt
Exude elegance in this
classic pattern
28
26 Fashion forecast
Sail away with our
nautical picks
28 Chloe top
Upgrade your style with
this fun design
30 Debbie Shore
Discover how to stitch
a princess seam
33 Playtime romper
Sew this darling children’s
outfit for playtime
38 Juliet Uzor
Our columnist takes a trip
down memory lane

Dressmaking
10 Eight summer essentials
Beautify your wardrobe with this
month’s fab gifts
17 Aura dress The latest
Feel fabulous in this from Debbie
floaty frock Shore, p30
20 Spot top
Step out in this stylish garment
22 Indie news
10 17
Don’t miss out on these
independent brand picks

for you... 74 Reader offer

Receive a FREE*
Stitching book!

Freebies & Offers

Get to know
Wendy Ward, p90
5
sewmag.co.uk
 Swimsuit Season
Everyone deserves to look and feel their best this summer,
and thanks to The Classic Swimsuit sewing pattern from
Rebecca Page, that has never been easier. Available in
sizes XS to 6XL, with cups AA to M, this timeless one-piece
promises a flawless fit thanks to its shaped cups and full
lining. You also have the option of introducing an underwire,
power bar, powermesh or wider straps to your finished look.
What’s more, you can choose between a plain or gathered
front depending on your style preferences. This pattern
costs £11 from rebecca-page.com

Go Organic
Certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard
and made from 100% organic cotton, this
gorgeous design is featured in the Going
Where The Wind Blows Collection. Designed
for dressmaking, this Interlock material
provides a natural stretch without any
added spandex. Plus, thanks to its knitted
construction, it is incredibly soft on both
sides, so it is not only slightly thicker and
more stable than other knits, it will also sit
gently against your skin. This fabric and many
who
what
more can be ordered from roo-tid.com

WEAR
The sewing world is a hub
of excitement, keep up!
Summer
Reading
Don’t forget to
check out your free*
copy of Search
Press’ summer
2021 catalogue with
this issue of Sew!
It’s packed with
their latest releases,
including books on
sustainable crafting,
sewing, knitting,
crochet, painting,
drawing and much
more, plus there’s
Monthly Makes a 75% discount
Boasting luxury fabrics, step-by-step instructions, free postage, and everything you on selected titles,
so you can treat
need to complete a gorgeous sewing project, the Skimming Stones Subscription Box
yourself to some
will be delivered to your door every month. Whether you arrange this subscription for holiday reads!
yourself or decide to treat a crafty pal, this service is sure to be a treat. Flexible too, searchpress.com
you have the option of canceling your subscription at any time or skipping a month.
Buy a one-off box or subscribe today at skimmingstonesdesigns.com *Available in subscription copies only

6
sewmag.co.uk

New Collection If you buy
Alert!
Launching this June, Sunburst
from Art Gallery Fabrics is the
perfect opportunity for you to
spice up your sewing supplies.
A brilliant fit for our nautical
theme, this selection of premium
cotton and spandex knit blends is
available as a handy fat quarter
bundle. Alternatively, the fabrics
can be bought separately for your
dressmaking projects. For further
details, visit hantexonline.co.uk
**For full T&Cs visit singerco.co.uk/patrick
All About Overlocking
Patrick Grant: BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourdillon
The Enspire, otherwise known as the most compact overlock
machine from baby lock, offers freedom and comfort when
sewing creative projects. With this incredible device to
hand, you can precisely adjust the tension to
personalise your seams, plus the JetAir™
system ensures the threading process is
easier than ever. As if that wasn’t enough,
the knife and stitch finger move at the
same time, allowing you to adjust
the stitch width individually
right down to the narrowest
rolled hem, so you will never
again have to deal with frayed
fabric edges. Discover the full
range at babylock.co.uk
ADVERTORIAL
one pattern…
You can enjoy both style and
comfort thanks to the beautiful
skirt designs of NewLook 6437.
Boasting a feature flat front
and an elasticated back, these
pull-on skirts can be finished
with a flattering tie belt, lace
inset panels or a sheer layered
effect. Floaty and fabulous, they will keep you
cool all summer long. £3, simplicity.com
Meet Patrick!
If you’re loving The Great
British Sewing Bee, don’t miss
Button Through Midi Tencel Skirt, £29.99 from mandco.com
Create and Craft’s follow-up
show Sewing Bee: Behind
the Seams which is available
on their Facebook page and
YouTube channel every Thursday.
What’s more, Singer is offering
the chance to win a place in a sewing
class with The Great British Sewing Bee judge Patrick
Grant. To be in with a chance of winning, purchase a
Singer sewing
machine from
an authorised
UK stockist
between 1st April
and 31st July
2021**. To find
out more visit
createandcraft.
com/singer
VIRTUAL LEARNING
If you have an interest in pattern construction,
consider joining Skillshare to gain access to designer
Hyden Yoo’s Pattern Drafting course. skillshare.com
It’s not too late for you to catch up with The Big Sew
Quilt-Along. All six video tutorials and templates are
available now. youtube.com/thecraftschannel
Achieve the perfect fit with help from The English
Tailor. This informative YouTube channel will guide
you through the basics of tailoring for both men
and women. youtube.com
20% 20%
OFF OFF
Jessa Sewing Pattern at
Jersey Fabrics at
MINERVA.COM TILLYANDTHEBUTTONS.COM
Use code: SEWJERSEY Use code: SEWJESSA
T&Cs: one use per customer, cannot be used T&Cs: one use per customer, cannot be used in
in conjunction with any other offer 27th May to conjunction with any other offer 27th May to
8th July 2021 8th July 2021
7
sewmag.co.uk
 12 Patterns
30Looks
TAILORED TO SUIT
YOUR SIZE, STYLE & POCKET
deal for swimmers, sun-seekers and of course, stitchers, this

I month's coastal collection is a guaranteed winner for the

summer months. Embrace soft silhouettes with our A-line shift,
delight in denim with our button skirt, plus fall for our snuggly
hoodie and long-sleeve lace top – firm favourites for beach strolls.

4
Styles

4
Designs

8
sewmag.co.uk
 DRESSMAKING

13
Your sew 17

Exclusive
Designs
FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD

All the patterns you

need to get started are
available to download at
our website sewmag.co.uk.
Simply register or log-in to
get started!
All of our patterns are available
from sizes 8-24* and already
include seam allowances.
Remember to make a toile to
ensure the best fit for you.
*excludes covermounted gifts

8-24* Sizing
24 28 20

10

YOUR SIZING CHART (CM)

8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24
Bust 78 83 88 93 98 103 108 113 118
Waist 59 64 69 74 79 84 89 94 99
Hip 85 88 93 98 103 108 113 118 123
Back neck 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47
to waist
9
sewmag.co.uk
 8
Summer
Essentials
CREATE A CAPSULE COLLECTION WITH
SIMPLICITY 8375 AND SIMPLICITY 9124
Build your perfect summer wardrobe with a selection of
hackable dresses, tops and cover-ups in sizes XXS-XXL

WHAT’S YOUR MAKE IT

SIMPLICITY SIZE? YOURS
Remember to use your body measurements to find Both of the patterns included
your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that with this month’s issue of Sew
you’d buy in high street shops. Visit sewdirect.com to can be customised in a whole
find out more about taking accurate measurements variety of ways, allowing you
and getting the right fit for your shape. to create a fully bespoke
capsule collection that’s
perfect for wearing throughout
the summer months, whether
you’re enjoying the sun at
home in the garden or
venturing out for
a few days away.

IT’S A STRETCH
Simplicity 8375 is sized for
stretch knits only, such as
jersey, interlock and Spandex.
This means that you must
choose your fabric carefully,
taking into account the
amount of stretch it has and
the direction of the stretch,
too. If you choose to use a
non-stretch fabric instead, it’s
highly likely that the finished
garment won’t fit in the way
it’s supposed to – or you might
even find that you can’t get it
on at all. Check out the
suggested fabrics on the back
of the envelope for a little
extra guidance.

10
sewmag.com
 DRESSMAKING
This pattern
is available
in sizes
up to
XXL

4
Hack‘n’Go
Garments
WITH SIMPLICITY

8375
This wonderfully creative pattern
pack takes a chic stretch-fit dress
and offers multiple options for
completely making it your own –
including a tie-back design, a
sleeveless ruffle-skirted tunic and
a flattering top with a slash-sleeve
detail. With multiple customisation
ideas and full instructions given, this
pattern challenges you to find your
own creative inspiration and stitch
a complete capsule wardrobe from
just one base design.

You’ll need a little extra fabric to

create this gathered frill detail

11
sewmag.co.uk
FEELING HOT, HOT, HOT
This pattern pack is perfect for creating a capsule wardrobe
for the warm summer months, so you’ll want to make sure
you pick fabrics that will suit a warmer climate, too. Try to
work with natural, breathable materials such as cotton jersey
or stretch bamboo, rather than man-made fibres such as
nylon or polyester that might feel stuffy and cling in all the
wrong places.

EASY FIT
With no darts or other complicated fitting elements to worry
about, Simplicity 8375 is the perfect design for those of you
who aren’t yet fully experienced with tailoring techniques, or
perhaps even fall in-between sizes. The casual silhouette-
skimming fit of the garment combines with the recommended
stretch fabric to create a piece that will feel comfortable on a
range of different sizes and body shapes. What’s more, there’s
no buttons, zips or other fastenings to worry about – just the
optional tie-back design of option two, which we think is well
worth the extra effort.

WHAT’S IN A STRETCH
This pattern pack is strictly designed for use with stretch
fabrics. When picking your material, you’ll need to consider
several things, such as what is it made from, what percentage
of stretch it has, and which direction(s) the stretch lies in.
It’s important to match the stretch of your fabric with the
recommendation given within the pattern to ensure the
garment fits correctly – Simplicity’s patterns now include
a Pick a Knit gauge, to make this process easier. Generally
speaking, most stretch fabrics have either a two-way stretch,
meaning it pulls in two directions, or a four-way stretch, which
means – as you may have guessed – that it will pull in four
directions. Four-way is more pliable than two-way, making it
better suited to close-fitting projects such as athletic wear
and swimwear. One-way stretch is also available, but tends
to only offer a small amount of give, making it unsuitable for
many stretch-fit patterns – including this one.

CHOOSE YOUR style

STYLE A The Main Event
This curve-skimming stretch-knit dress features a
simple silhouette with long sleeves, a rounded
neckline and a flattering hemline that cuts at the
mid-thigh. Dress it up or down with shoes
and accessories to suit your mood.

STYLE B Bow Tie Back

Once you’re ready to step things up
a gear, take on option two – which
updates the base design with a
contrasting hem and sleeve detail,
scooped contrast neckline and a gorgeous
tie-back. Team it with heels and a clutch
for a wow-worthy ensemble.

STYLE C Gather Up
Option three removes the sleeves from the base
dress and adds a flirty dropped ruffle to the hemline,
creating the ideal outfit for a casual day at the
beach or a picnic in the park.

STYLE D Go Cropped
Finally, option four removes the
whole bottom half of the garment,
turning it into a chic hip-skimming top.
Better still, it features a fun slash-sleeve
detail to add an extra touch of design interest.

12
sewmag.co.uk
 DRESSMAKING

4
Gorgeous
Cover-Ups
WITH SIMPLICITY

9124
With three different hem lengths
to choose from, matching or
contrasting edge bands and an
optional lace trim, Simplicity 9124
creates a gorgeous and fully-
customisable throw-on design that’s
ideal for delicate silks, crepes and
batiks. Pick from a shorter cropped-
hem version, a mid-length cover-up
(cut straight or crosswise), or a pretty
high-low hem design that sweeps
down from front to back to flatter
the hipline. Finish your creation with
a matching or contrasting neckline
and sleeve bands, or go for a fancy
finish with a special lace edge.

The curved front creates a subtle

hourglass illusion

13
sewmag.co.uk
 CHOOSE YOUR
STYLE A Take It Up
style
This option shortens the hem of the garment and cuts it
straight across. Choose to finish your neckline and
sleeves with either a matching or contrast fabric band,
or alternatively opt for something a little fancier with a
lace trimmed edge.
STYLE B Dip It Low
Option B adds a stylish dipped hem to the
bottom of the garment, starting higher
at the front waistline and dropping
down at the back of the garment to
flatter the figure. Again, you can
customise the finish of this cover-up
with your choice of sleeve and
neckline edging.
STYLE C Criss Cross
This slight variation looks similar to option B, but has
one key difference – the fabric pieces are cut crosswise
(from selvedge to selvedge), instead of running with the
grain as they normally would. The crosswise grain of
woven fabric has more stretch, which gives this design
a slightly different drape and feel to the other options.
STYLE D All-In-One
This final version is slightly different once again, cutting the
sleeve and body pieces of each side of the garment in one piece,
rather than cutting the sleeves separately as in the other design
options. This removes the seam around the armhole and gives
the piece a more draped finish. The band around the sleeve hem
has also been removed for a clean-cut edge.

Atelier Brunette
Dune Viscose in Off
White, £18.99,
minerva.com

Atelier Brunette
Dune Viscose in
Chestnut, £18.99,
minerva.com

STAY STRONG
This pattern calls for a lightweight
fusible interfacing to add
strength around the neckline.
Legacy Lightweight Shape
Flex is an all-purpose fusible
interfacing that provides crisp support
to fabrics, including delicate silks.
£8.99 per metre, minerva.com

BE SHARP
It’s essential when working with delicate,
slippery fabrics that you use a sharp blade to
trim your pattern pieces. This 8” pair of
shears from Prym features a special
micro-serrated blade that holds the fabric
in place as you cut, stopping it from
slipping. Prym 8” Gold Edition Tailor’s
Shears, £39.90, empressmills.co.uk

14
sewmag.co.uk
 DRESSMAKING

Next month’s

2Patterns Bonus
Four versatile
gathered skirts

STUNNING
ENSEMBLE
Create a gorgeous outfit combo
with this flattering collection

Six basic
simple-sew tops

SIZES
8-26 (UK)

SIZES
10-26 (UK)

August issue on sale 24th June 2021

15
sewmag.co.uk
 16
sewmag.co.uk
 DRESSMAKING

FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk
/templates

Our exclusive
patterns are
available to
download in sizes

8-24

Make a statement
with our A-line

Aura
Dress
This gorgeous piece from Posner
& Posner oozes glamour and
sophistication. With its delicate
V-neck and shapely silhouette,
you’re sure to make an impression
at any occasion. A great project for
advanced beginners, you’ll master
fitting sleeves, inserting a lining
and creating flattering darts. All in
a day’s stitching!

17
sewmag.co.uk
 BEGINNER

1
Download the pattern from
sewmag.co.uk, then print out
and follow the cutting guide.
With right sides together, pin and
sew the darts in the front dress and
in the optional front lining. Press the
darts down towards the hem and
stay stitch around the front neck
edge within the seam allowance.
With right sides together, pin and
ESSENTIALS sew the centre back seam up to the
Fabric, 2m (150cm) opening mark. Neaten the edges
Lining fabric, 2m and press the seam open, then
Fusible interfacing, 25cm repeat with the back dress lining
Button, 15mm, one if used. Press the centre back
opening along the seam allowance.

SUGGESTED FABRICS
Lightweight wovens with drape,
such as viscose challis, crepe
de chine and cotton lawn
SIZES
8-24
Get started
CUTTING GUIDE
Front: cut one on the fold from
fabric and one on the fold
from lining if used
2
Stay stitch around the back
neck edge within the seam
allowance. With right sides
together, pin and sew the front and
back dress at the shoulder seams.
Neaten the edges of the seam and
press open. Repeat for the lining if
used. With right sides together and
matching the notches, pin and sew
the side seams of the dress. Neaten
the seam edges and press open.
Repeat for the lining if used.

Back: cut two from fabric and
two from lining, if used
Sleeve: cut two from fabric and
two from ining, if used
Front neck facing: cut one on
the fold from fabric and one on
the fold from interfacing
Back neck facing: cut two from
fabric and two from interfacing
1.5cm seam allowance
throughout, unless
otherwise stated.
3
With right sides together and
matching the notches, pin and
sew the underarm seam of the
sleeve. Neaten the edges and press
the seam open. Do the same for the
lining if used. Insert the sleeve into
the armhole. Match the notches at
the shoulder seam and the front and
back armhole and line up the
underarm sleeve seam with the side
seam of the dress. Pin in place right
sides together, easing the sleeve to
fit and sew. Overlock or zig zag

6
around the seam to neaten and Stitch around the neckline,
press towards the sleeve. Repeat pivoting at the centre V and
for the lining if used. clip into it. Fasten around the

L IN THE DE back neck and trim the seam.

4
If lining the dress, position it
A L inside the garment, wrong
TA sides together. Pin around
I L the neckline and sew in place close
to the raw edge to secure. Push
the lining sleeves into the dress
sleeves and position in place lining
Understitch around the neckline
and fold the back opening back
into place with the facing edge
underneath. Press around the
neckline with the facing turned to
the wrong side of the dress.

up the sleeve seams at the wrist
edge. Tuck the edge of the lining
into the pressed back opening, up
to the pressed edge. Turn in the
raw edge of the back opening over
the top of the lining to neaten.
7
Make a small rouleau loop
or use a narrow ribbon and
insert beneath the facing
on the left side to form a button
loop. Stitch the loop in place. The
facing and back opening can be
topstitched in place or slip-stitched

5
Apply fusible interfacing to
the front and back neck
facing pieces. With right
sides together, pin the facings
to the lining. Sew a button in
position on the top of the right
back opening.

together at the shoulder seam and
stitch. Trim the seam and press
open. Neaten the edge of the
facing using an overlocker, zig
zag stitch or small turning. With
right sides together and matching
SEW MAGAZINE 32
8
Turn up the hem of the dress
and stitch in place. Fold up
the hem of the lining after
cutting the length slightly shorter
than the dress. Turn under the
sleeve hem and press. Rotate the

This classic V-neck perfectly
frames a statement necklace
notches and shoulder seams, pin
the facing around the neckline. At
the back opening, fold the edge of
the opening back on itself along
the pressed edge and position
underneath the facing.
raw edge inside to meet the
pressed edge and stitch. If lining
the dress, the sleeve lining can be
tucked under the sleeve hem and
slip-stitched in place.

18
sewmag.co.uk
 DRESSMAKING

We made this dress

with Lady McElroy
viscose challis in
Multicoloured,
£15.99 per metre,
minerva.com

15%*
OFFViscose fabric shown at
MINERVA.COM
Use code: SEWVISCOSE
*T&Cs: one use per customer, 27th May to 8th July
2021, cannot be used in conjunction with
other offers or promotions.

19
sewmag.co.uk
 INTERMEDIATE
ESSENTIALS
Fabric, 2m (150cm)
Cord or woven tape, 1m
Fusible interfacing, 25cm
SUGGESTED FABRICS
Knit fabrics with 5% stretch,
such as French terry or
cotton jersey
SIZES
8-24
CUTTING GUIDE
Get started
Front: cut one on the fold
Back: cut one on the fold
Collar: cut one on the fold from
fabric, and one from fusible
interfacing up to the centre fold
line of the collar
Front neck facing: cut one on
the fold from fabric and one on
the fold of fusible interfacing
Back neck facing: cut one on
the fold from fabric and one on
the fold from fusible interfacing
Sleeve: cut two
Pocket: cut four
1.5cm seam allowance
used throughout, unless
otherwise stated.
P CLOSE AND
U PE
SEW MAGAZINE 32
It can be helpful to draw in the stitching
lines with a water soluble fabric pen
Your new partner for laidback
weekends, it’s our
Olivia Top
Designed by Posner and Posner, this relaxed pull-on can be
popped into your beach tote, ready for when the night gets nippy.
It’s a great next step for beginners looking to dip their toes into
stretch knits, and sewers can master fitting sleeves and pockets,
plus using an overlocker too. Why not finish yours with faux
woven ties in a bright pop of colour?
1 2
Download the pattern from Position the front facing
sewmag.co.uk, then print and piece onto the centre
follow the cutting guide. Cut front, right sides together.
fusible interfacing, 10cm x 15cm, Sew along the stitching line for
and apply to the wrong side of the the opening, pivoting at the
front centre top to reinforce the bottom edge. Trim and clip into
front opening. Apply fusible the corners. Turn the facing to
interfacing to the wrong side of the the inside of the front and press
front and back neck facing pieces. the edge. With right sides
Pin the facings together at the together, pin the back to the
shoulder seams and stitch, then front at the shoulder seams and
trim and press the seam open. stitch. Neaten the edge of the
Neaten the edge of the facing using seam using an overlocker or zig
an overlocker or zig zag stitch. zag stitch and press towards
the back.
3
Apply fusible interfacing to
half the collar, up to the
centre line where the collar
piece is folded. Fold the collar in
R half, right sides together, and
pin and stitch across the ends.
SO
Trim the seam and turn the
collar to the right side. Press the
NA
ends of the collar along the
seam line, then press the collar
L
in half with raw edges together.
Pin the double edge of the collar
to the neckline, matching the
centre back and positioning the
ends of the collar at the edge of
the front opening.
4
Cut the cord or tape to the
correct length for you and
position under the collar at
the marked position, either side
of the front opening, slanting
the end slightly so that it hangs
towards the front. Pin the rest
of the facing around the
neckline over the top of the
collar, matching the shoulder
seams and the centre back.
5
Turn the front opening
back on itself over the top
of the collar. Stitch all
20
sewmag.co.uk
round the neckline. Trim the seam
and clip into the curves, then press
the facing towards the wrong side
and the collar standing up. Turn
the facing at the front opening
towards the inside. Understitch
the back facing between the
shoulder seams. Slip-stitch the
facing to hold in positions at the
shoulder seams.
6
With right sides together,
position the pockets on the
front and the back, then pin
and stitch in place with a 5mm
seam. Neaten the seam edge
using an overlocker or zig zag
stitch. Press the pockets away
from the side seam. Pin the front
to the back at the side seams and
all around the pocket pieces, right
sides together. Stitch from
underarm to hem, pivoting at the
top and bottom of the pockets.
Neaten the seam edge using an
overlocker or zig zag stitch, and
press the seam and the pockets
towards the front.
7
Pin the sleeves at the
underarm seam, right sides
together and matching the
notches. Stitch from the wrist edge
to the underarm. With right sides
together, position the sleeves into
the armhole and pin. Match the
notches and note the marked
position for the underarm sleeve
seam. Sew around the sleeve head
and neaten the seam edge using an
overlocker or zig zag stitch. Press
the seam towards the sleeve.
Neaten the edges of the sleeve and
the hem using an overlocker or zig
zag stitch and turn up a 2.5cm hem
on each. Press the hem fold, then
stitch in place.
 DRESSMAKING

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patterns are now
available to
download in sizes

8-24

We made ours in
French terry in
Navy with
Red Spots,
£15 per metre,
stoffstil.co.uk

Core
Skill
KNIT
KNOW-HOW
Fabric that contains
elastane, such as this
one, needs to be cut out
and handled gently. If any
of the pattern pieces are
stretched out of shape
when you stitch, this will
cause your garment to
look distorted. To avoid
this, make sure there’s
plenty of space for
the material to be
fully supported.

21
sewmag.co.uk
 A cosy corduroy would work

indie
well later in the year
SIZES S-XXXL

pattern
Camargue
Cowboy Shirt
By Liberty Sewing Patterns
Difficulty: Intermediate

picks
Avaliable as a unisex make,
this stunning Camargue Cowboy
Shirt is a definite crowd pleaser.
Including not two, but four
variations, you can make this piece
completely your own; you can
include pockets on the front of the
shirt, add sleeve cuffs, choose front
button plackets or treat yourself to

Fire up your machine

some collar detailing, so there will
be no risk of you blending into the
background. Go the extra mile and
make it from a chambray fabric for
a more authentic cowboy feel.
£17.50, clothkits.co.uk
and get stuck in...
SIZES 6-22 Zina Wrap Skirt
By Liberty Sewing Patterns
Difficulty: Beginner
Enter the Zina Wrap Skirt! One of the latest
patterns from the Liberty London range, this
design draws inspiration from their iconic fashion
archives, but with plenty of contemporary style
details to give it a fresh twist. With the option to
choose between three different lengths, this style
is a flattering go-to for any beginner sewist, and
you can even add a ruffle detail to the hem.
Suitable for lightweight fabrics, such as drape,
cotton or silk, this pattern is not one to be missed.
£17.50, clothkits.co.uk

SIZES 6-24

Make with
a lightweight Cinderella Dress
fabric for a and Top
summer dress By I AM Patterns
Difficulty: Intermediate
Nothing can quite beat an outfit that
is stylish yet comfortable, and that’s
exactly what you’re getting with the
Cinderella Dress and Top. With a choice
between four different sleeve finishes:
sleeveless, short, with ruffles and with
double gathered bands, this pattern
can be customised to complement all
shapes and sizes. Its loose fit means it’s
perfect for warm summer days spent
outside, and, as if that wasn’t enough,
the dress also comes with in-seam
pockets – it’s official, we’re sold.
From £8.60, iampatterns.fr

22
sewmag.co.uk
 SHOPPING

Use buttons in a contrasting

colour for a fun twist

SIZES 6-24
SIZES 6-24

Orchidée Top & Dress

By Deer and Doe
Difficulty: Intermediate
For a more advanced sewist, this Orchidée
Dress pattern is a gorgeous challenge. With
two different versions, a short blouse with a
ruffled bottom or a midi dress with a zip
closure, both feature a deep V-neck, bridal
buttons and statement sleeves making either
ideal occasion wear that can be dressed up or
down. This beautifully classic shape is
incredibly flattering but also the stitching
soulmate for your lightweight fabrics.
From £9.50, shop.deer-and-doe.fr

SIZES 6-24

Coquelicot Dress
By Deer and Doe
Difficulty: Intermediate
Finding the perfect summer dress can seem like a
daunting task, but the Coquelicot Dress has been
a breath of fresh air in our search. Featuring a
sleeveless design, it has a square neck with an
added flounce, a universally flattering A-line skirt
that can be maxi or knee-length and an invisible
side zip closure. This dress will be a joy to wear
thanks to the flowy skirt, so it’s the perfect
addition to this season’s wardrobe.
From £9.50, shop.deer-and-doe.fr Diana Playsuit SIZES 6-24
& Dress
By I AM Patterns
Difficulty: Intermediate
For the perfect day to night outfit, look no further
than the Diana Playsuit and Dress. Not only can
EDITOR SAYS... you choose between having short sleeves or going
sleeveless, but each version features a shawl
“We love the idea of collar and a double-breasted closure that finishes
using a different colour or at the hip. The narrow bodice panels will lengthen
print for the ruffle for a bit of any silhouette for an effortlessly chic look that will
suit any shape and size. Raid your stash and give a
added interest” new fabric a try as this pattern suits plenty!
From £8.60, iampatterns.fr

23
sewmag.co.uk
 INTERMEDIATE

You’re sure to make waves

with our button-down
ESSENTIALS
Fabric, 1.5m (135cm)
Fusible interfacing, 25cm
Buttons, seven

SUGGESTED FABRICS
Suzy Skirt
Denim is just one of those fabrics that just gets better with time,
Structured mid to heavyweight
wovens, such as denim and the same goes for this skirt by Posner and Posner. It’s a classic
and corduroy
design that will see you through the years – no matter how your style
SIZES grows and changes. It will also arm you with the wisdom to sew with
8-24 thick denim, as well as creating in-seam pockets and buttonholes.
CUTTING GUIDE
Get started
Front: cut two

1
Download and print the pin and stitch the side front skirt and sew along the pressed
Back: cut one on the fold pattern from sewmag.co.uk, pocket to the facing using a 9mm hem line to the edge of the facing.
Waistband: cut one on the fold then follow the cutting guide. seam and matching the notches.

Side front pocket: cut two
Pocket facing: cut two
1.5cm seam allowance
throughout, unless
otherwise stated.
Make darts in the back skirt.
With right sides together, pin and
stitch the pocket facings to the
front skirt, matching the notches
and keeping the top of the pocket
level with the top of the skirt,
Neaten the edges of the pocket,
then pin in position at the side of
the skirt and place the edge at the
circle marker, folding the pocket
flat against the waist edge.
7
Trim the corner and excess
fabric, then turn the facing
back to the correct position
and press. Sew the hem in place,
making sure the front edges of the
skirt are level when overlapped.

3
Sew close to the skirt waist Make the buttonholes and overlap
using a 9mm seam. edge and at the side edge the front facings over each other

2
Clip the curves and press
the pocket to the inside of
the skirt along the seam
edge, then topstitch close to the
seam. With right sides together,
to secure. With right sides so that the edges are level. Secure
together, pin and stitch the skirt the buttons in place.
back and front at the side seam.
Trim and neaten the seam, then
press towards the back of the
skirt. On the right side, topstitch
close to the seam line.

CLOSE AND
4
Apply the interfacing to

U P the wrong side of the front

PE skirt. Neaten the front edge

R using zig zag stitch or by turning

under a narrow seam and sewing. Core
Fold the front facing along the
Skill
SO

edge on both sides of the front

skirt and press into position.
NA

Apply fusible interfacing to the

wrong side of the waistband. CUTTING
L

DENIM
5
Fold the waistband in half
and sew both ends. Trim
the seam and press the Denim is a thick fabric,
waistband. Matching the notches so to make life easier
and making sure the ends of the when cutting out the
waistband are level with the pattern pieces, you
folded edge of the front skirt, should use a sharp pair
pin and sew one side of the
of scissors or add a new
waistband. Press the seam so
that the allowance is towards
blade to your rotary
the folded edge of the waistband. cutter. Depending on
how thick the denim

6
Turn under the other raw
edge of the waistband and is, you may want to cut
hand or topstitch in place, through just one layer at
SEW MAGAZINE 32

then press. Turn up the hem to a time, and you might

Snip a small notch into the side the desired length and press. also need to upgrade to
seam of the main fabric to mark the Neaten the raw edge of the hem, stronger pins.
top of where the pocket will sit then turn the front facing back
towards the wrong side of the

24
sewmag.co.uk
 DRESSMAKING

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PATTERN? Our exclusive
patterns are now
GET SEW DELIVERED available to
STRAIGHT TO YOUR download in sizes
DOOR FOR £22.75!*
See page 56 for T&Cs
8-24

We’ve used
12oz coloured
stretch denim in
shade Indigo.
£12.99 per metre,
higgsandhiggs.com

25
sewmag.co.uk
Maritime
Moment
Sail away in our nautical picks
It’s time to say ‘Bon voyage’ as we steer our away to seafaring
chic. So much more than navy and white stripes, the nautical look
is the hero of the hour. Oceanic symbols come to mind – anchors,
boats, crabs, turtles and more. As we head to the coast for our
sunkissed staycations, it’s time to don outfits that take inspiration
from the curvature of waves. With a beachy palette of mermaid
blue, lobster orange, and sandy ivory, paired with breathable
textures like cotton and jersey, you’ll be set to sail the seven seas.

DROP
ANCHOR
Cotton jersey knit
in Navy Nautical,
£14.99 per metre,
minerva.com

UNDER
THE SEA
Red Crabs from the Deep
Blue Sea range by Riley
Blake, £15 per metre,
lovelyjubblyfabrics.co.uk

CORAL CHIC
Rose Stripe cotton
poplin, £6 per metre,
samanthaclaridge
Denim Dress, studio.com
£29.99, mandco.com

SEASIDE
BLISS
White Seaside
Icons in cotton
fabric by Makower,
£12.60 per metre,
fabricandribbon.co.uk

AHOY SAILOR
Turtles Blue 2 Oeko-Tex
Standard Cotton,
£14 per metre,
elephantinmy
handbag.com

26
sewmag.co.uk

GET SET FOR A STYLISH SUMMER
WITH PATTERN PICKS FROM
“Just because a pattern is presented in a
certain way, doesn’t mean that is the ONLY
way you can make it. Have fun and be bold!”
y favourite seasons are spring and
M summer because I dislike being
cold. I would rather sit with a fan
and melt away on the covered
porch of my house than shiver during the winter
months. Many would say, just layer your garments,
bundle up in blankets, or my personal favourite is:
“if you are cold, you can always add clothes, but if
you are hot, you just gotta be hot.” Well, I will take
that deal, hot and sweaty Mimi G it is, ha! Aside
from not enjoying the cold, another reason for loving
spring and summer is the clothes. So, I thought it
would be fun to share some of my favourite picks:
Vogue 1776
What I love: This dress is a bit structured, but I
like that, and it could also change with your choice of
fabrics. I love the style and the length; the front drape
is beautiful, and I can see this in a bold print like
some of the latest African-inspired
wovens from Melanated Fabrics.
What I would modify:
I would shorten the sleeves for
one look and maybe slash and
spread to create a bishop sleeve.
I would also omit the fringe.
Another idea is to lengthen the
skirt and drop the neckline.
I can’t wait to start
stitching McCalls 8199
Fabric choice: Summer months are for fun prints
and colour, so I would make this garment in a crepe
or poplin print. This would add the flowing look
I need for the drape and bishop sleeve.
Vogue 1783
What I love: In my opinion it just doesn’t get
easier than a chic shirtdress with a slouchy hat
and some sandals. So, when I saw Vogue 1783, I
knew it would be on my summer must-make list.
What I would modify: I love this dress pattern
just as it is! I like the shirt version best with the
flared skirt and sleeves; it’s chic and sexy. The
maxi version is beautiful too, but I
would opt for a cleaner, fitted,
short sleeve if I was creating
the longer look.
Fabric choice: I adore this
design in white, but nobody
said you had to sew just one, so
I would also stitch this dress in
a bold and colourful print.
McCalls 8192
What I love: I could live the entire summer in
this look. I love a dress that sits away from the
body, but is still flirty and cute. What’s more, this
design can be modified to create a variety of looks.
There is also a pleasant surprise on the reverse, as
a low back is always a win for me.
What I would modify: You could swap sleeves
between the different styles, lengths, and details.
Find Madras Plaids and more at
melanatedfabrics.com
27
sewmag.co.uk
TEA BREAK
I think sometimes people forget
this is an option. Just because
you see a garment sewn up on
the envelopes doesn’t mean you
can’t mix and match the pattern
pieces to create a fresh design.
Fabric choice: The options
are endless! Melanated Fabrics has some bold
and bright prints that would be perfect. You could
also use a patchwork plaid or madras plaid for fun.
McCalls 8199
What I love: Who can resist a cute top that can
easily be made into a dress? Exactly! That is why
I love McCalls 8199. It’s adorable and fun, not to
mention having one pattern that you can make into
multiple garments is always a plus.
What I would modify: I am going to sew this
top as is. The second style is my personal favourite,
but seeing as all you have to do is add length to the
bodice to create a dress, it just makes sense to stitch
both versions. The first style would also make a
pretty slip dress if you decided to add some length.
Fabric choice: I’d love to see this design in a
patchwork plaid or a madras
plaid. A floral print would be
beautiful too.
The great thing about
sewing is that you can take a
pattern, mix and match pieces,
use bold prints and fabrics,
and truly make a summer
wardrobe you love. Remember that just
because a pattern is presented in a certain way
doesn’t mean that is the ONLY way you can
make it. Have fun and be bold.
Mimi x
To hear more from Mimi, click
onto mimigstyle.com or follow
@mimigstyle on Instagram.
 INTERMEDIATE

It’s all in the little details

with our lace collared
ESSENTIALS
Fabric 1.5m (150cm)
Button, 15mm, one
Lace, 50cm or pre-made collar
Chloe TopEveryday comfort gets a pretty twist with this
SUGGESTED FABRICS delicate Peter Pan collar and striped T-shirt combo from designers Posner &
Stable knit fabrics with up to Posner. You can either create your own collar from lace, or simply buy a pre-
25% stretch, such as jersey
made one since they’re so on-trend right now. Pair your versatile top with shorts,
SIZES jeans or a skirt for an effortless look that will see you through the summer!
8-24

CUTTING GUIDE
Get started
Front: cut two on the fold
Back: cut two on the fold
Sleeve: cut one pair
Neckband: cut one on the fold
1.5cm seam allowance
used throughout, unless
otherwise stated.
1 7
Download the pattern from
sewmag.co.uk, then print and
follow the cutting guide. Apply
fusible interfacing to the wrong side
of the placket. Draw a line on the
surface of the interfacing at the
centre of the placket with a water
soluble fabric pen. Neaten both
sides and the bottom edge using an
overlocker or zig zag stitch, or by
turning under a narrow hem.
edge of the placket. Cut down the
centre of the stitching and snip into
the corners. Turn the placket
through to the wrong side of the
back and press the edges. With
wrong sides together, pin and stitch
the front to the back at the shoulder
seams. Neaten the seam edge using
an overlocker or zig zag stitch and
press towards the back.
Pin the sleeves in place, right
sides together, matching the
notches and circles. Stitch the
sleeves and neaten the seam edge
using an overlocker or zig zag stitch
and press towards the sleeve. With
right sides together, pin the side
seams and the sleeve underarm
seam, matching the notches and
lining up the end of the sleeve seam.

3 8
Fold the neckband in half, Stitch from the wrist edge to

2
Place the placket at the neck
edge of the centre back
T-shirt, right sides together
with the placket facing you, and pin.
Stitch 5mm either side of the centre
line and two or three stitches across
the bottom, 1.5cm from the bottom
L IN THE DE
L
A TA
I L
lengthways and right sides the hem. Neaten the seam
facing, then press. Position edge using an overlocker or
the raw edges of the neckband zig zag stitch and press towards the
around the neckline, working from back. Neaten the edges of the sleeve
the centre front to the back opening and the hem using an overlocker or
and pin in place. Open out the top zig zag stitch and turn up a 2.5cm
edge of the placket and fold it back hem on each. Press the hem fold
on itself. and stitch in place.
4
Place the ends of the
neckband over the top. Stitch
around the neckline. Finish
the edge by using an overlocker or
by trimming the seam and using
a zig zag stitch. Fold the placket
Core
back into the correct position.
Finger press the seam downwards
Skill
and topstitch close to the seam
line around the neck on the right SEWING
side. Slip-stitch the placket edge
and neck band together at the JERSEY
centre back. A ball point needle
is great for sewing

5
Make a button loop at the top
of the placket on the left side knit fabrics because
using thread. Sew a button in it has a round tip and
the correct position on the right-
pushes the fibres aside
hand side of the placket. Make a
button loop with doubled over when sewing rather
thread stitched into the seam, then than piercing them.
work tiny blanket stitches around it. Alternatively, a stretch
needle would also work

6
Position lace around the neck
line. Take your time to arrange well. Size 75/11 and
and pin it, clipping around the 80/12 needles work best
lace pattern and checking the for light- to medium-
design is symmetrical and angled weight knits, whilst
around the curve. Hand stitch it into
a 90/14 needle suits
place. A purchased lace collar can
be sewn onto a narrow piece of bias heavier fabrics.
binding, then stitched into place.

28
sewmag.co.uk
 DRESSMAKING

FREE
TEMPLATE
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sewmag.co.uk
/templates

Our exclusive
patterns are now
available to
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8-24

We made our top

using a striped
viscose jersey,
£16.99 per metre,
minerva.com

29
sewmag.co.uk
 MY SEWING SECRETS

DebbieShore
The trick to achieving a princess seam is to start either at the
shoulder or armhole, then curve down to the waist. This seam is
a surefire way to create a good fit around the bustline. Just
remember to closely follow the pattern instructions – some will
involve stay stitching, some will ask you to press the seams open
and some will instruct you to press your seams to one side.

3
Pin the sections together along the seam
line, starting at the top and bottom of the
seam, then match the notches. The pin
heads should be facing towards you so they are
easy to remove. If you wish, draw on the seam
allowance with an erasable marker or chalk.

5
Open out the seam and snip into the bodice
side. This will ensure the fabric sits flat. Cut
small ‘V’ shapes into the side seam. This will
reduce the amount of material and again, allow

1
Cut out your pattern pieces carefully, then
transfer any markings and notches. You the seam to sit flat.
might want to highlight the notches in
black so that they stand out.

4
If your fabric is slippery, you may find it
easier to tack along the seam line and
remove the pins as you sew. Stitch along
the seam line, taking it slowly around the curve
and ensuring there aren’t any puckers.

6
Press the seam open and use a

2
Stay stitch if required; this will prevent tailor’s ham to keep the shape of
the curved fabric from stretching as the the seam.
material is handled and sewn. A stay stitch
is a short length of about 1.5cm, sewn half an
inch from the raw edge. On this pattern, it is For more great tips from Debbie,
sewn between the notches on the bodice. visit halfyardsewingclub.com

30
sewmag.co.uk
 DRESSMAKING

Little ones will love FREE

TEMPLATE

wearing this DOWNLOAD

sewmag.co.uk
/templates

Playtime Our exclusive

patterns are
available to
download in ages

6m-2y
Romper
This romper by Vanessa Mooncie
certainly has the cute factor – who
could resist a puffy onesie worn on
adorable little legs? But playtime
is serious business for energetic
youngsters, so comfort is key. That’s
why this pattern is packed with
practical additions, including front-
buttoned shoulder straps crossed at
the back, an elasticated back waist,
and snap fasteners at the inside leg
for easy nappy changes.

31
sewmag.co.uk
 INTERMEDIATE
ESSENTIALS
Fabric
Cotton facing
Elastic: 6mm wide, 2.5cm wide
Snap fasteners, 1cm
Buttons, 1.5cm
SUGGESTED FABRICS
Light-to-medium-weight
wovens, such as cotton poplins,
lightweight denim or gingham
SIZES
6 months, 1 year, 2 years
Find measurements and fabric
requirements on the template
download
CUTTING GUIDE
Shorts back: cut two in
main fabric
Shorts front: cut two in
main fabric
Shoulder strap: cut two in
Get started
main fabric
Bib: cut one in main fabric
and one in facing fabric
Waist casing: cut one in main
fabric and one in facing fabric
1.5cm seam allowances used
throughout, except around the
bound neckline.
Get the
Book
Stitch a whole wardrobe full
of classic clothes for boys
and girls with Sew Adorable
by Vanessa Mooncie, GMC
Publications, RRP £14.99,
available online and from all
good bookshops.
SEW MAGAZINE 32
1 3
Download, print and cut out the
templates from sewmag.co.uk.
With right sides together and
notches matching, stitch the bib
facing and waist casing facing
together up to the small dot at the
top edge. Press the seams open.
Join the centre-front and centre-
back seams of the two shorts
pieces. Sew a second row over the
first to reinforce the seam. Clip the
curves and press the seams open.
With right sides together, sew the
side seams of the shorts. Trim the
seams and press open.
2
Run two rows of gathering
stitches along the upper edge
of the front and back of the
shorts, by hand or using a long
machine stitch, working one row
along the seam line and the other
6mm inside the seam line. Pull up
the gathering stitches on the front
and back of the shorts separately
to fit the lower edge of the bib and
waist casing facings, matching
the seams.
Take time to record accurate
measurements of baby and match these
using the size guide on the template
32
sewmag.co.uk
With the right side of the bib
and waist casing facing to the
wrong side of the gathered
edge of the shorts, matching the
side seams and the large dot to the
centre-back seam, pin and sew
together. Trim and layer the seam if
necessary to reduce bulk. Press the
seam towards the facings and
remove any tacking stitches.
4
Fold the shoulder strap along
the line indicated on the
pattern, right sides together.
Sew along the edges, leaving the
slanted end open. Trim the seam
and cut diagonally into the corners,
taking care not to cut into the
stitching. Turn the strap right-side
out and press. Topstitch close to the
edges of the strap.
5
On the right side of the waist
casing facing, matching the
dots, tack the straps in
position with the seams facing
towards the centre, aligning the raw
edges with the top edge of the waist
casing facing. Press under 1.5cm on
the lower edge of the waist casing.
With right sides together, matching
notches and the small dots to the
side seams, stitch the waist casing
to the waist casing facing at the top
edge between the small dots,
sandwiching the straps between
them. Press the waist casing up,
then press the seam towards the
waist casing.
6
On the outside of the garment,
pin the pressed edge of the
waist casing over the seam,
matching the small dots with the
side seam. Topstitch close to the
pressed edge between the small
dots. Topstitch close to the top
edge of the waist casing between
the small dots, then thread the
2.5cm wide elastic through the
opening at the waist casing. Adjust
to fit, trim the excess elastic and
sew down at the side seams to
secure the ends.
7
Turn under and press 1.5cm at
side seams and lower edge of
bib. With right sides of bib and
bib facing together, pin and sew the
armhole and top edges together,
leaving the side and lower edges
open. Trim the seams, snip the
curves and cut diagonally into the
corners, taking care not to cut into
the stitching.
8
On the outside of the garment,
pin the pressed lower edge of
the bib over the seam.
Topstitch close to the pressed edge
and the pressed side edges down
over the waist casing, then close to
the armhole and top edges of the
bib. Turn under and press 2cm on
the hem of the leg edges. Turn under
the raw edge, press and sew to form
a casing. Topstitch close to the outer
edge of the casing. Using a bodkin
or a safety pin, insert the 6mm wide
elastic through the opening in the
leg casing. Adjust to fit and stitch
across the ends.
9
Cut two 3cm-wide bias strips
to fit the length of each inner-
leg edge at the front and back,
allowing an extra 2cm on the length
of each strip. With right sides
together, pin a bias strip to the inner
leg edge of the front and the back,
turning under 1cm of the strip at
each end.
10
Sew in place, allowing a
6mm seam. Press the
seam towards the binding
and press the bias strip to the inside.
Turn under the raw edge and stitch.
Slip-stitch the ends of the bias strips
to the edge of the hem. Sew snap
fasteners to the front and back
inside legs at the medium dots.
Work the buttonholes by hand or
machine in the front. Sew two
buttons securely to each strap,
indicated on the pattern by an X.
 DRESSMAKING

LOVE THIS
PATTERN?
GET SEW DELIVERED
STRAIGHT TO YOUR
DOOR FOR £22.75!*
See page 56 for T&Cs

33
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34
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 TEABREAK

Don’t
Bee
A Stranger We all love the Great British Sewing Bee, and
with season seven drawing to a close we decided
to catch up with a few of the stars of everyone’s
favourite crafty competition to find out what
they’ve been up to since their time on the show.
WORDS BY SOPHIE TARRANT
35
sewmag.co.uk
 STUART HILLARD
Since his time spent on the first series of the Sewing Bee
in 2013, Stuart Hillard has continued to grow a hugely
successful career within the sewing and craft world, with
over 25 years of stitching experience and hundreds of
published patterns to his name. He’s written three bestselling
books – 2014’s Sew Fabulous, 2017’s Use Scraps, Sew
Blocks, Make 100 Quilts and 2019’s Simple Shapes
Stunning Quilts – with another, Bags For Life, due to launch
this September. In addition to this, Stuart regularly appears
on Create & Craft TV, writes for crafty magazines – including
our sister title, Crafts Beautiful – and designs exclusive
fabric ranges for The Craft Cotton Company. You can see his
latest designs at stuarthillardmakes.com

TILLY WALNES
Designer and educator Tilly originally fell in love with
sewing after taking an introductory class prior to studying
at the London College of Fashion. Upon graduation she
started to create her own clothing, and in 2010 she began
writing her blog, Tilly and The Buttons. Her creations were
inspired by the fashions of the 1960s and the French New
Wave, and in 2013 the growing popularity of the blog
led to her applying for the first series of the Sewing Bee.
Her love of vintage design charmed both the judges and
the viewers, and since appearing on the show she has
launched a hugely popular range of patterns and fabrics
under the Tilly and The Buttons name, as well as several
online workshop programs. Tilly has also authored three
books – 2014’s Love At First Stitch, 2018’s Stretch!, and

P1 & 2, Jenniffer Taylor. Photography taken from Girl With a Sewing Machine (Search Press); Tilly Walnes, photography by
2020’s Make It Simple. View the whole range of patterns,
tutorials, books and more at tillyandthebuttons.com

Ellie Smith; Chinelo Bally, photography by Claire Pepper. P2 - Stuart Hillard, photography by Rachel Whiting

CHINELO BALLY
Dressmaker Chinelo wowed both judges and fellow contestants alike
on season two with her freehand cutting techniques and eye for
couture garment design. Since appearing on the series in 2014, she’s
kept sewing at the forefront of her career. Not only has she written
two popular books on the subject - 2015’s Freehand Fashion and
this year’s brand new title, Sew Chinelo – but in 2015 she launched
a couture fashion house, creating custom gowns and bespoke
womenswear for red carpet events, weddings and more. Check out
what she’s been making at instagram.com/chinelobally

Don’t Miss Out!

Follow @SewHQ on Instagram, or visit
sewmag.co.uk for the latest Sewing Bee news
36
sewmag.co.uk
 MATT GAGE
Vintage-loving Matt made it through
to the final of last year’s The Great British
Sewing Bee, and hasn’t stopped since!
“I first started sewing about six years
ago,” explains Matt, who used to run an
online vintage clothing store and works
in TV transmission. “I wanted to upcycle
garments for my shop, but that never
materialised. So sadly, the machine went
into the cupboard. However, a year later
I had the mad idea to create a dress for
myself for a drag party. I’m a terrible drag
queen – I look like Angela Lansbury and
Kenny Everett’s love child – and the dress
didn’t look much better. It was a terrible
fit and was really badly constructed.
However, my passion for sewing had
begun. I had watched the original series
of the Sewing Bee on a night shift at
work, and I was quickly hooked. I watched
the other series in quick succession and
was amazed at how the sewers could
create something in such a short amount
of time. I saw that they were looking for
amateur sewers to appear in series five,
so I just thought, why not? I got as far
as a phone interview that year, but no
further. I clearly needed another year at
my machine, because in 2020 I made it
through, and the rest is history. The first
time walking into the sewing room was
my favourite part of the experience. It
felt rather surreal; first seeing it on TV,
then actually being there. Everyone was
so nice – the crew, the other sewers, and
even the judges! The best thing I’ve gained from
being on the show is being told that I’ve been
an inspiration, and that people have taken up
sewing after watching us all. During lockdown,
sewing saw a real boom in popularity, so I
launched a website called Keep Britain Sewing
to help people develop their skills at home. I
began with a few tutorials and projects, but
it’s grown over the year and the site now
includes an online forum, a shop and even a
TV station! I’ve just released five new sewing
patterns which are aimed at beginners. Each
one has an online tutorial. There’s also an online
haberdashery so people can buy all the bits they
need in one place. I will be adding to the sewing
pattern collection soon, and I’m currently
developing a ‘70s inspired summer dress. I also
can’t wait for the theatre and performance
venues to re-open. I hope the industry can
bounce back and I can start making costumes
again.” Visit keepbritainsewing.com to see
Matt’s new range of patterns, tutorials,
video guides and more.
Get the Books
Sew Chinelo by
Chinelo Bally, £20,
waterstones.com

JENNIFFER TAYLOR Your Skirt, Your

Self-taught seamstress Jenniffer Way by Jenniffer
appeared on series two and has since Taylor, £12.99,
searchpress.com
created a wide range of patterns,
books and kits under her Tailor Taylor
brand. “I’ve always been a creative
person, but sewing is something that
I didn’t come to until later on in life,”
she explains. “I was getting married
and decided I wanted to make my own
wedding dress. It was my first project!
I’d been watching the first series of The
Great British Sewing Bee whilst making Simple Shapes,
Stunning Quilts by
my dress and a few months later my Stuart Hillard,
husband, Kirk, secretly applied for me. £19.95, cotton
Being on the show felt like the most patch.co.uk
intense sewing course you could put
yourself on, but that’s what I loved
the most. It made me more confident
and inspired me to follow my current
career path. Currently my second book
Your Skirt, Your Way is out now, and
I’m really excited about it. I think the
ethos behind the book is what inspires Make It Simple
a lot of people to start sewing – making by Tilly Walnes,
clothes that reflect your personality, £25, shop.tillyand
but also fit you perfectly. It’s exactly thebuttons.com
what inspired me to pick up the needle
and thread “To find out more, visit
jenniffertaylor.co.uk
37
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TEA BREAK
TWO YEARS SINCE TAKING THE
CROWN, OUR WINNING BEE TAKES
A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE
Juliet Uzor
“There’s no denying that the
Sewing Bee brought about immense
growth in many aspects of my life”
ecently, I received a lovely influx of
R messages and new followers from
Japan, because The Great British
Sewing Bee was being broadcast at
their end of the world. Little wonder social media
and the current season of the show have sent me
on a trip down memory lane about my own journey
on the show. From the flattering wiggle dress on
episode one, to the glamorous red evening gown
modelled by my cousin Maxine for the final, all
I could think about was the experience and stories
interlaced with every challenge set by the judges.
I struggled with many of those and was pushed to
the absolute limit, but there’s no denying that the
show brought about immense growth in many
aspects of my life.
Apart from the use of fabrics and techniques
which were miles away from my radar in real life, I
learnt a new level of resilience to deal with criticism
of my sewing and creativity; something I’d never
had to deal with. This feedback from the judges
Back to my trusty
Brother machine
Sewing Bee made me a better sewer
allowed me to work better at my craft and hone
areas that were lacking. Not only did I become a lot
better at sewing for other people besides myself, but
I also learned to care more about precision and the
finish of the garments I made.
The support from the other nine sewers and Joe
Lycett was another highlight for me. I was initially
intimidated by the experience and knowledge they
all had, especially being self-taught and having no
friends who sewed in real life. But after every day
with them, I grew in confidence and in my skills and
ability; their creativity and willingness to share their
gift really inspired me to become a better sewer.
Walking into the sewing room for the very first
time was truly momentous for me because of how
much I looked up to previous bees like Lauren
Guthrie, Tilly Walnes, Chinelo Bally, Rumana
Lasker, Charlotte Newland and many more. I
had high expectations of what the iconic sewing
room would look like in real life and it didn’t fail
to impress! Also, I had little to no experience
working with any other machine beside my simple
Brother model at home. But having the other nine
contestants there, sharing the same experience was
quite reassuring. I remember having a love-hate
38
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relationship with the transformation challenges
and delivering on days that I didn’t expect to, such
as the episode where we transformed camping tents
into doggie raincoats. I did not expect to create
something half-decent but in the end it turned out
to be a success.
When we got to the finish line and I won the
competition, I found it very hard to stay silent
about taking part in a television show and winning
it. My daughter, who had just started school, was
such a trouper by keeping the secret till the very
end! Luckily, the show was filmed during the
school holidays, so I didn’t have to make up stories
about being away from work.
So, with the new season of The Great British
Sewing Bee back on our screens, I hope to see more
support and true friendships being formed in the
sewing room. I also look forward to many creative
projects, inspiring myself and the rest of the nation
to continue sewing, advance our creativity and
attempt something new.
Juliet x
When she’s not busy working as a school
teacher, Juliet shares her stitching story
via her blog and YouTube channel,
SewSoNatural.
I learnt to take criticism
to improve my skills
 BEGINNER
ESSENTIALS
l Tea towel, blue and white
striped, two l Fabric: plain,
24.5cm x 61cm; striped, 23cm
x 46cm l Fusible fleece, 24cm x
41cm l White buttons l Ribbon,
navy blue l Cord, 5mm wide
l Wooden boat
SAILOR BAG CUTTING GUIDE
l Bag top: plain fabric, 9cm
x 20.5cm, two
l Bag bottom: striped fabric,
16.5cm x 20.5cm, two
l Filling: fusible fleece, 20.5cm
x 24.5cm, two
l Lining: plain fabric, 20.5cm
x 24.5cm, two
l Drawstring channel: striped
fabric, 6.5cm x 21.5cm, two
l Cord: 51cm, two
Get the
Books
Coast-to-coast creations to
help you make waves with your
interior space. The Nautical
Home by Anna Ornberg
(Skyhorse Publishing, £14.99),
simonandschuster.co.uk
Be inspired with this selection
of favourite Half Yard summer
projects. Half Yard Summer
Collection by Debbie Shore
(Search Press, £14.99),
searchpress.com
Transform teatowels and
ticking into our
Stripy Scrap
Busters
The lure of the ocean holds a special charm for crafters, bringing together
the serenity of a peaceful palette, the whimsy of marine life and the classic
lines of a blue stripe print. These simple stitchy projects are the perfect way
to add a dash of maritime magic to your crafting, from Anna Ornberg’s
stitched fish to Debbie Shore’s sailor bag. All aboard!
Stitch a pouch bag
1
Sew one side of the main plain
fabric to the striped bottom
bag piece, right sides together.
Press the seam open, then fuse
fleece to each wrong side and
topstitch on either side of the
seam. Cut a square, 2.5cm,
from each bottom corner.
2
Tuck the short ends of the
drawstring pieces in by
5mm, repeat and sew. Fold
in half lengthways and press. With
right sides together, centre at the
upper edge of each outer bag piece
and sew. Stitch the linings over the
top, so the channels are trapped
between the two pieces.
3
Open out and place the
sections right sides together,
then pin. Sew the edge,
leaving the cut-out corners and
a gap of 7.5cm in the base of the
lining. Tuck the channel ends out
of the way so you don’t sew over
them. Pull open the cut-out
corners so the side and base
seams meet, stitch across and
turn out. Sew the opening, then
push the lining inside the bag.
Topstitch the upper edge.
4
Garie Hind 2018
Attach the end of a length of
cord to a safety pin. Thread
from left to right through the
front channel, then from right to
left through the back one. Remove
the pin and knot the ends. Repeat
for the second cord, working in
the opposite direction. and use it to draw an outline on both sides of the face for eyes.
Sew a striped fish
the towel, then cut around the Wrap thin blue ribbon around
edges to make two identical fish the tail fin and fasten into a bow,
body shapes in blue striped fabric. then attach to an ornamental
1 2
Clean your tea towel before Sew the two body pieces boat as decoration.
sewing, then fold in two. together using dark blue
Create a simple fish template thread. Attach a button to
40
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 HOME & GIFTS

LUCY SAYS...
“You could stuff your
fish with lavender
and pop in your
drawers for a sweet
smelling treat”

EWA Photography/Flora Press

41
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 BEGINNER
ESSENTIALS
l Fabric: plain white, cotton;
pale grey, speckled; black and
white, patterned; yellow l Felt,
flesh coloured l Toy stuffing
l Net: grey, navy and silver
l Sequins: gold, two; iridescent
l Embroidery thread, black, six-
strand l Heavy weight pelmet
interfacing l Glue, PVA, acid-
free l Elastic bands, small,
clear, two l Wadding scrap
We’ve used Confetti
White on Grey by
Robert Kaufman.
£15 per metre,
sewhot.co.uk
Why not hang the seagull from
a thin piece of elastic? As it
moves, the wings will flap!
Fly high this summer with
Sidney the
Seagull
Who knew this marine bird could be so adorable? This cheeky fabric
seagull by Carolyn Letten is sure to look amazing suspended from
a shelf or ceiling, adding a spot of nautical decor to your home.
Complete with glimmering sequins and speckled wings, Sidney is
well and truly ready for take-off, just be sure to keep a close eye
on your chips. Bring back cherished memories of coastline escapades
with this fabulous feathered friend!
1
Download and print the also right side up. Use yellow the ‘V’. With the first seagull piece
templates from sewmag.co.uk.
For the main body, cut two
thread to stitch the two inner
sides of each beak.
placed wrong side up, fold the sides
of the ‘V’ in by 5mm, press with
2
pieces from plain white fabric and Iron on the reverse, then cut an iron to crease then sew the
two beaks from yellow fabric. Pin away the excess white fabric seam. Repeat this with the second
the beaks in place, right side up onto from underneath the beak. seagull piece.
3
the beak section of the white body, Cut a 0.5mm snip into the point of Pin both seagulls right sides
together. Stitch a 5mm seam
from point A to B catching a
hanging loop, C round to D catching
the second loop, then from E to F.
Do not sew anything between points
F and A or D and E, leave open. To
attach the breast, use the template
to cut a breast piece from white
fabric. Lay the bird in front, then fold
and pin the unstitched top layer of
fabric between points D and E up
out of the way.
4
Lay the breast insert in place
so that the bottom edge of it
matches the edge of the body,
then pin in place and sew a 5mm
seam from point to point. Unpin,
turn the bird over and repeat,
pinning the now stitched half of
the breast out of the way while
sewing the remaining edge from
point to point.
5
Use pinking shears to cut
away all excess fabric from
around the bird, cutting close
to the stitch line. Turn the right side
CAROLYN SAYS...
“I love the
sparkle across
the wings – it
looks like a ray of
sunshine is hitting it!”
42
sewmag.co.uk

FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk
/templates
out by pulling through the gap in the
top of the bird. Using the template,
cut two tail pieces from white fabric
and one from wadding. Layer them
on top of each other with the
wadding at the bottom and pin.
6 10
Sew around the three long
sides with a 5mm seam,
leaving the short straight
bottom edge unstitched. Use
pinking shears to trim all excess
fabric close to the stitch line, then
turn the right side out by pulling it
through the unstitched end. Iron
and use white thread to sew the
five detail lines as marked on the
template by the dashed line.
7
Insert the finished tail in
between the two seagull tail
flaps and pin in place so that
5cm of the length of the tail is
outside the body. For the top side
of the tail, use hand stitching to turn
the short seams on the body under
to hide the stitching and raw edge,
then use small stitches to hold the
tail in place. Repeat this process to
finish the underside of the tail. Sew
a gold sequin to both sides of the
head using black embroidery thread,
securing them with black French
knots in the middle.
8
Cut two whole wings from
white fabric by placing the
half template on the fabric
fold. Use one of the fabric wings
as the template to cut two from
the heavy weight pelmet
interfacing; avoid folding or
creasing the interfacing.
9
Iron the adhesive sides of the
interfacing onto the middle of
each piece of white fabric.
Snip into the edge of the fabric at
43
sewmag.co.uk
HOME & GIFTS
Thanks to Rebecca Mason for
helping us name our mascot!
Help us with suggestions for
next month’s toy at facebook.
com/sewhq
1cm intervals all the way around raw edge of the grey fabric. Cut a
each wing, up to the edge of the piece of navy net using the dotted
interfacing, then fold each tab line as the template is placed on
over onto the other side of the the fold and stitch it onto the
interfacing, using an acid-free glue middle of the wing. Sew a piece of
stick to secure. grey net across the whole wing
Create two different but leave a border of the white
fabric sections that fabric across the wing edge.
12
spread across the Place the top and
wings. Place the first section on the bottom wing wrong
fold to cut two pieces from grey sides together and sew
speckle fabric and use the second around the edges. The wings can
section to cut four from black/white be hand stitched in place along
fabric. Use an acid-free glue stick the spine of the seagull, in
to separately assemble the top between the two loops sewn in
and bottom wings so they match, earlier, or secured using acid-free
then sew all just in from the PVA glue. Cut out two leg pieces
fabric edges. from flesh coloured felt. Lay them
11
Add a piece of silver net on thin paper, machine or hand
across two-thirds of the stitch the details, then tear the
grey fabric and sew paper away and glue them in
iridescent sequins across the inner place under the bird.
 stitch it · write it · share it · stitch it · write it ·

This month our Star Letter

winner will receive a
surprise bumper selection
of fabrics from Minerva,
worth £50. minerva.com

St r letter
Sew bros unite!

Social
I read Mimi G's article about the sewing
industry ignoring men who want to sew, and
I couldn't agree more. My husband Brett
Sponsored by knows his way around a machine, loves
Minerva sewing (he is as excited as me about the new
www.minerva.com Sewing Bee!) and would make more if the
patterns and fabrics were out there. He
started making kites on an old second-hand
machine in his twenties and has since made
We asked to see your crafty creations, and you bags, waistcoats and hats. His most recent
didn’t disappoint! It’s time to take a look at your make was a self-drafted tool roll out of waxed
showstoppers – keep ‘em coming! canvas. Brett and I attended an RJ Sewing
School workshop, where we used industrial
machines for the first time. He has also hand-
sewn little leather bootees for our first
grandchild, Madison.
Lynn Osborne
A little dress.
Anne Howells

How
adorable!
A little bag for my mum.
Andrea Fowler

We love the floral

design!

Top inspiration
For more
inspiration,
check out
our Pinterest
boards
at @sewhq

We love this nautical beach bag! Featuring an Inspired by little Danish beach bath houses, This maritime doorstep is sure to impress.
idyllic sailor stripe design synonymous with the these cushions inject a marine palette into Complete with a cute anchor motif and pops
seaside, this accessory is sure to add a burst of your home. Perfect for a muted approach to of colour, there’s no better way to brighten up
colour to any garment. sewmag.co.uk the naval trend. sulky-shop.de your porch! sewmag.co.uk

44
sewmag.co.uk
share it · stitch it · write it · share it · stitch it · write it · share it · stitch it · write it · share it · stitch it · write it · share it ·

We asked...
Ellie & Mac’s
37%
of people say they have
What’s your
favourite part of
favourite
sewn a pattern inspired
sweater pattern
in scuba. by a design featured on the Sewing Bee?
Lorraine Gee
The Great British
What a Sewing Bee To see a sewer get garment
of the week, it must be so
joyful top! much fun and you would
feel so chuffed!
JAN WALKER

Patrick having a
A pussy cat for giggly episode!
my daughter’s
birthday GILLIAN IVES
next week!
Clair Foskett Love it all.
LISA VINCENT
Jumpsuit all
ready for Oh, Joe’s jokes are
when I can
go out. something else!
Sheila LORENA GONZALEZ
Youngman

Watching at least one of the

A reversible infant
bucket hat! contestants struggle with the
Carolyn Oakes patterns... love the comments
Novak from the judges.
What a fun SUZANNE PEARSON
pattern! Joe... he's hilarious!
One JEANETTE SEYMOUR

in five*
Brits took up sewing
I love all of the challenges!
ADRIANA ROSE

or embroidery I made a beach It's seeing the finished

during lockdown bag with a garments for me.
*Brother Sewing waterproof lining.
Machines Europe
TAYLOR JONES
Liz Walton

We love the The whole sewing process.

geometric YASMINE WATSON
pattern! I love the catwalk part as
you get to see the garments in
all their glory. The music
Finally is always great, too.
finished this
button-down GEMMA ANDERSON
back blouse!
Charlotte
Rolls Neé I made some
Yeoman dish cosies.
Linda
Keep an eye out for next month’s
Lathwood
question on our Facebook page
facebook.com/sewhq

45
sewmag.co.uk
stitch it · · write it · share it · stitch it · write it · share it · stitch it · write it · share it · stitch it · write it

Social Sponsored by
Minerva
www.minerva.com
I made some
spring tops.
Linda Claxton

Just finished
sewing the
binding on this
so that it was
I made a few coffee sleeves, and I A request from a ready to gift
changed out the snappy purse friend for a fairy doll yesterday!
because the old one was looking backpack, she has a Rosie Lambert
awfully shopworn. zip in the back of her
Kristine Stapelfeld head to hide treasures!
Hayley Hissett
What a practical design!
Seen in
As soon as I saw the Grace
Made a tote bag for a Tunic in the March 2021
friend's birthday. edition, I wanted to make
it for my partner. After the
Katherine Bond depressing and restrictive
12 months we’ve all had,
We love the the style seemed just right
nautical print! for the summer ahead
and the Viscose Atelier
Brunette Canopy Cobalt
fabric looked fantastic. It
also gave me two new skills
to learn: understitching
on fine fabric and fitting a
concealed
zip, both of
which I have
not tried
before. The
Grace Tunic
was a treat
Jersey top sewn with to make and
a lightning bolt stitch my partner
thanks to great advice loves it!
from Sew. Twin needles, Paul Waring
stitched hems, and the
front has a pleat.
Maria Di Giulio Siciliano

Say hello to
Sidney! Chosen by you Rebecca
has won a
Each month on Facebook, we ask you year’s worth
to help us choose a name for our of digital
patterns
issue’s mascot.
Find this
adorable “Sylvia Sidney is one of my favourite actresses,
seagull mostly because of the film Beetlejuice.”
on page Help us to choose a name
Rebecca Mason, Sew reader for next month’s mascot at
48 facebook.com/sewhq

Share your makes via social media @SewHQ or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk

46
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J&B SEWING MACHINES

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Dear sew
...can you
HELP?
We’ve teamed up with new-launch
magazine Make & Sew Toys for top tips on
designing dolls, transforming teddies and
creating super-cute characters

Q What
can I do
to help
my toy stand Q What does it
mean when a toy
pattern says to ‘pay
the test of time? attention to the grain’?
Especially when Maura Highborne
it’s in the hands of Corinne says: The grain is another name for
a messy little one! the direction of the warp and weft threads used
in woven fabric – how threads are crossed
Trisha Pierce over to make up the fabric. If you cut matching
pattern pieces in opposite directions on the
Melanie says: Firstly, grain, you may find that as toys are stuffed,
always make sure you are one side will stretch out differently to the other.
only using high quality Cutting on the grain is important for pieces
fabrics. If you are using where there is no discernable 'right way up',
felt, make sure it is always such as the curved arm of this cute kitten. If
100% wool. The toy you cut these pieces at an angle to the grain,
filling you use should be the amount of stretch could badly distort the
washable, and remember finished shape once stuffed, so it is important
to pre-wash fabric in that you avoid this mistake. Although knit
case of shrinkage. If fabrics are constructed differently to woven
you tick all of these fabrics, you will still need to pay close
boxes, there is no attention to the grain if you are working
reason why you with this kind of material. It is important
cannot regularly that you evaluate the
wash dirty toys grain in the same way
without damaging them. that you would the
To ensure durability for grain of the woven
play and in the wash, you fabric, as otherwise
should always use strong your pattern pieces
polyester thread and a may start to pucker
short stitch length. or even stretch in
the wrong areas.

48
sewmag.co.uk
Julie Tatchell and Amanda Middleditch photography: BBC/Ricochet Ltd/Steve Peskett HOME & GIFTS
JULIE TATCHELL & MELANIE MCNIECE
AMANDA MIDDLEDITCH The creator behind Melly CORINNE BRADD

Meet our Best known as 'The Bear

Ladies' from the BBC’s
The Repair Shop
& Me, author and pattern
designer Melanie has sound
advice for stitching novices.
Corinne is a regular Sew
contributor. Watch her
how-to's on YouTube’s The
EXPERTS instagram.com/
bearitinmind02
melanieandme.com Crafts Channel. youtube.com/
thecraftschannel

TOY BOX tools

Stuffing Always pull apart your
stuffing before you use it. Add
small bits at a time and push
them into place using a blunt
knitting needle or a chopstick for
a smooth finish.
Sewing needle Change your
sewing machine needles
regularly and always have the
same thread on the spool as
on the bobbin to make sure it
runs smoothly.
Eyebrow comb An eyebrow
comb is a handy tool to have
in your teddy making kit – no,
really! You can use it to tease
out any fur that's caught in the
seams, and to 'fluff' your teddy
bears up!
Fat quarters Fat quarters are a
thrifty way of utilising fabrics
for small toy projects and
offer a varied colour and
pattern choice.
Rotary cutter It’s worth
investing in a rotary cutter
as they make short work of
pattern pieces with curved
edges such as heads,
and are really fast to use
Top 3 Pattern Picks
Buttons or Safety eyes
You can choose to substitute Treat your tot to these FREE
stitched or felt eyes for
buttons or safety eyes if you
designs at sewmag.co.uk
are making your toy for an
older child.

Sleepy
Q Is there a way to ‘age up’ a newly
made vintage-style bear? I also have
a childhood teddy that needs to be
cleaned safely. Any tips?
Kitty

Rebecca Milton

Julie & Amanda say: There are many

good methods for ‘ageing up’ a toy
bear, such as plucking and shaving the
Harriet
hair to create balding areas at the tops of
the arms or the end of the muzzle. Staining Hare
using a natural dye such as tea can mute the
brightness of a new fabric. A few 'repairs' or
patches using mismatched thread can be
quite effective, as can only giving the bear
one eye or substituting a button. Finally, try
a little less stuffing for an appealingly floppy
appearance. In terms of sprucing up your
childhood teddy, it all depends on what he is
Heart
made from and how strong or old his fabric
is. We don’t recommend the use of washing Dolly
machines and totally immersing the bear
in water is never good for any vintage
soft toy, as they are often filled with
natural stuffing such as foam rubber,
wood wool and kapok. Most bears
will benefit from a gentle brushing
and vacuuming if you are uncertain
of any of the above. Our favourite
and most used method is to surface
clean using just the foam suds from a MARCH 2021 ISSUE
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ADE WITH

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J OY Me
my &
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Haven
the pile of the fabric then simply wipe TOYS
for every sewing

Let's Play Shop!

ability! toy
RUSSELL GRANT’SI
FOND MEMORIESI

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EAS
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Clever cheats
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CHAT WITH HOW-TOS INSIDE
TEA & A KER
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Toys for tots! CUTE CORINNE
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s! Inside: Quick-trace
GIFTS FOR TINY
HANDS patternLS
shareTUT START TOYMAKI NGPatterns
Tear ‘n’
ERT-LED
ORIA Bear
TODAY!
+ EXP Basic

to air-dry naturally.
Easy as Baby’s Box
Dottie
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Clever Hop Take
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BABY BLOCKS
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PIECING FELT FIGURES
TO TUCK IN STITCH DAISY
KIDS OF ONLY SEVEN MASTER BUNNY’S BALLERINA
AND SEND
ALL AGES STEPS TILL PLAY PRETTY OUTFIT FOR BUDDING
PLAYTIME UP WITH DANCERS
OUR KITTY

Never miss an issue of Make & Sew Toys,

subscribe today and receive three issues for
just £14.99 from giftstoyou.com

Send your stitchy questions

to editorial@sewmag.co.uk or
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49
sewmag.co.uk
 BEGINNER

ESSENTIALS
l Fabric, printed cotton
‘Fin’k outside the box
l Wadding l Toy filling
l Textile paint, black with this pod of

BlueWhales
Note: Add a 1cm seam allowance
after you draw the pattern onto
the fabric.

These cheeky sea creatures are known to be the largest animal in

Get the the world, but they love a cuddle just as much as the rest of us! This
family of whales designed by Tone Finnanger is sure to bring a smile
Book to your little diver’s face. The positioning of the whale’s eyes makes a
big difference to its personality, so try out different options with an air-
erasable pen before you paint them on.

1
Download and print the pattern as a guide, mark where the the tail. Sew the other side allowing
templates from sewmag.co.uk. fins are to be fastened. Use pins to a reverse opening at the fin.

Fold the fabric for the fins,
right sides together, with wadding
underneath. Transfer the fin pattern
and sew around it. Cut out and turn
attach the fins to the edge of each
side of the body, making sure they
turn right side in. Stitch in place and
remove the pins.
4
Trim the seam allowance
around the edge and turn
through to the right side. Stuff
the whale, tail first, using a wooden

3
right side out with the wadding in Fold the base in half and mark stick or knitting needle to push the
the middle, then press. the middle at the front. Place filling in. Stuff the rest of the body

You can discover more
charming toys and gifts to sew
for children in Tilda’s Toy Box
by Tone Finnanger, £16.99,
davidandcharles.com
2
From printed cotton, cut out
two body parts and the base.
Place the two body parts, right
sides together, and sew, leaving the
flat bottom edge open. Using the
the whale body right sides
together on the base, with the
middle at the front of the base and
the body aligned. Sew one side, from
the middle at the front backwards to
well and sew up the reverse
opening. Mark the position of the
eyes onto the head. Dip a pin with a
large rounded head into black textile
paint, then stamp onto the fabric.

When sewing for children, remember

to check thouroughly for any pins
or needles left in the fabric

50
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 HOME & GIFTS

FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk
/templates
TONE SAYS...
“The whales
are all made
from washed
Tilda cotton
fabrics. We also used a
synthetic filling, which
is non-allergenic”

51
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 BEGINNER

Celebrate the seaside with our

Beach Hut
ESSENTIALS
l Fabric: canvas stripes, blue
and white, red; canvas waves,
blue and red; heavy cotton/
twill, 60cm square; cotton,
15cm square l Medium weight
interfacing, 60cm square
l Fusible webbing, 15cm
Door Stop
For many holiday goers, the coast makes for the perfect staycation.
square l Button l Stuffing,
300g l Dried pulses, 500g Pebbled beaches, ice cream vans and historic piers conjure up
nostalgic memories of aquatic adventures. This jubilant make by
1cm seam allowance Chloe Hailwood well and truly brings the sunshine in and pays
used throughout, unless
otherwise stated. tribute to our favourite coastal destinations. It’s packed full of toy
stuffing and dried pulses, transforming a flat nautical design into a 3D
masterpiece, primed to brighten up your home.

We made our hut

from Decor Canvas
in Blue Stripe,
1
Download and print the
template from sewmag.co.uk.
Press fusible webbing to the
reverse of all the fabrics, except
fusible webbing to the reverse of before embroidering details to the
the appliqué fabrics, before using window and adding running
the templates to cut out one door, stitches around the door and
one window and five flags. bunting strings. Stitch a button

those being used for the appliquéd
£8.95 per metre,
door, window and bunting. Cut out
myfabrics.co.uk one base, two roofs, one front, one
back, and two sides. Mark the letters
along the correct edges. Press
2
Remove the backing paper
from the door and other
details, then position on the
right side of the cut-out front
piece of fabric. Press in place
to the door as a handle.
3
Lay the front piece flat, right
side facing upwards. Place
a roof piece along a top-
pointed edge of the front piece,
meeting up the ‘A’ edges as
marked on the templates. Place
the second roof piece on the
opposite side, again meeting up
an ‘A’ edge of the roof to the ‘A’
edge of the front. Add both the
sides in this way, matching a
‘B’ edge of a side piece to a ‘B’
edge of the front, then the base
along the bottom, meeting up
the ‘C’ edges.

4
With right sides of the
fabric together, sew along
the lettered edges. Start
and stop stitching 1cm from each
corner. Bring together and make
the corresponding edges: for
example, an open edge of a roof
piece with the top open edge of a
side piece. Pick up the back piece,
pin, then tack to the remaining
open edges to finish the beach
hut shaping. Stitch around,
working one edge at a time.
Leave a 12cm gap along the
bottom for turning through.

5
Turn through to the right
side, pushing out corners
before stuffing. Fill a cotton
pouch or food bag with 500g
dried pulses, rice or baking beads
and add into the base. Close the
Beach huts come in all manner
of colours, so choose hues that gap with a whip stitch.
best suit your home

52
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 HOME & GIFTS

FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk CHLOE SAYS...
/templates
“Start and
stop all lines
of stitching
1cm from the edge
to allow for adding in
different sections”

53
sewmag.co.uk
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 INTERMEDIATE

Embrace beachside bliss with our

ESSENTIALS
Seaside
Collection
l Fabric, cotton: printed
l Lightweight sew-in interfacing
l Lightweight quilt wadding
l Magnets: magnetic sheet,
small neodymium l Knitting
needle l Snap fasteners
l Clean sandwich bags
l Embroidery thread
With the seaside season in full swing, Corinne Bradd has dreamt up a
nautical collection that is the stuff of deep-sea dreams. This set features
a reversible hat and practical poppered sunnies case, plus a crinkle
For stockists of the starfish for babies and a fishing game that will be fun for all the family
Enchanted Voyage this staycation season. With these pelagic essentials, you’ll be all set to
Collection by spend a day in the sunshine. The beach is calling!
Art Gallery
Fabrics, visit
hantexonline.co.uk
Make the hat

1
Download the templates at
sewmag.co.uk. Cut a crown,
four sides and four brim pieces
from both contrasting fabrics,
adding a 5mm seam allowance to
each piece. Snip the same from the
interfacing pieces and zig zag
stitch to the wrong side of one
set of fabric pieces.

2
Using the interfaced pieces,
tack the bottom edge of each
side piece to the top edge of
each brim piece, easing the curves
to fit. Sew and press. Repeat the
steps with the other fabric pieces.

3
Join the side and brim pieces
of the interfaced fabric right
sides together to form a ring.
Check the fit, using a greater seam
allowance for a tighter fit. Topstitch
these seams if desired. Join the
other set of fabric pieces in the
same way with the same seam
allowance, leaving a 6cm gap in
one side piece seam.

4
Tack and sew the crown of
each hat around the top of the
matching hat sides. Press the
seam to the side and topstitch if
desired for a neater line. Place one
hat inside the other, right sides
together, staggering the side seams
to reduce the bulk and pin around
the edge of the brim.

5
Sew all the way around the
brim, trim the seam with
pinking shears and turn out
through the gap in the side seam.
Press and topstitch the brim of
the hat with two parallel lines of
sewing before slip-stitching the
turning gap closed.
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 HOME & GIFTS

FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk
/templates

Stitch a crinkle starfish

Download the templates at

1 sewmag.co.uk. Cut out two

pieces of fabric right sides
together and one piece of wadding.
Layer the pieces together and pin
them onto a clean plastic sandwich
bag. Sew all around the shape
leaving a 3cm gap in one leg.
Trim away the excess

2 plastic, clip curves

and corners,
then turn out through
the gap. Press gently
(too much heat will
begin to shrink the
bag), fold in the edges of
the turning gap and topstitch
around the whole shape.
Lightly sketch the mouth,

3 eyes and cheeks onto one

side of the starfish with a
soft pencil. Backstitch the features
with two strands of darker coloured
embroidery thread. Whip back
through the stitching to smooth
out the curves. Sew a spiral in the
centre of each cheek or fill with
satin stitch.
57
sewmag.co.uk
Sew the fishing game

1
Cut several fish shapes from
fabric right sides together,
layered onto lightweight
wadding and add a 5mm seam
allowance to each shape. Sew
around the shapes leaving a 3cm
gap on one side. Clip curves and
corners and turn out through the
gap. Press each fish.

2
Cut a strip of magnetic sheet
2cm x 5cm. Apply a little glue
to one side before slipping
through the turning gap and sticking
to the underside of the fabric. Fold in
the raw edges of the gap and slip-
stitch closed.

3
For each fishing rod, cut a
scrap of fabric 3cm x 8cm.
Fold under the short edges and
glue. Fold in half right sides together
and sew down both sides. Turn out
and slip a small magnet inside.
Securely tie a length of DK cotton
yarn to the end of a blunted, wooden
knitting needle. Knot the free end
several times before slipping inside
the fabric bag. Gather the top of the
bag around the yarn and stitch
securely to hold.

58
sewmag.co.uk

FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk
/templates
Make the sunnies case
1
Download the templates at
sewmag.co.uk. Cut two pieces
of fabric right sides together
and one piece of wadding. Add a
5mm seam allowance as you cut
and clip a small ‘V’ shape where
indicated. Layer the fabric onto the
wadding and sew from ‘V’ to ‘V’.
Sew along the bottom flat edge.
2
Open out the layers and match
up the bottom seam with the
end of the top curved seam, so
the same prints are right sides
together. Stitch the wadded sides
together and sew the single layer
HOME & GIFTS
sides together, leaving a 4cm gap CORINNE SAYS...
in the centre of one side.
“I used snap
3
Clip curves and turn out
through the gap. Press the top fasteners for
curved edge well before my case, but
closing the gap with a small slip-
stitch and push the lining into the you could always
outer. Topstitch around the curved opt for a practical strip
flap and front edge of the case. of velcro. Alternatively,
4
Place glasses into the case
and fold over the flap for a you could cut a length of
perfect fit. Mark where the fabric, wind it around the
edge of the flap falls on the front case, then secure with a
with a pin before removing the
glasses, lining the flap back up and simple knot to finish”
fitting snap fasteners to close.
59
sewmag.co.uk
 Shell YEAH!
Top We sew seashells on the seashore

Pick

Download this
FREE tutorial at
sewmag.co.uk

Looking for a poolside project? This unique haberdashery pouch from our designer Corinne
Bradd is a freebie you’ll be itching to dive in and download. Prize open your compact scallop
– no shucking needed! – and you’ll discover a whole host of nifty features, including pockets
just deep enough to slip in your embroidery scissors and pins, while on the other side, you’ll see
elasticated strips to keep bits and bobs safe and sound. To find this bonus pattern, simply head
to sewmag.co.uk/free-sewing-patterns – anchors aweigh and get started today!

60
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 More than £1,500 worth
of prizes up for grabs!
Passion for Fashion Perfect for Quilting
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This set has it all! For including everything children aged 8+ will 11
stockists email groves@ need to crochet a coaster, handbag, kits to
stockistenquiries.co.uk placemat, or belt. Visit toysandbears.com for
more arts and crafts.
win

How to
1 2 3 Visit our website, Click the Select a giveaway and
Closing
date
enter sewmag.co.uk ‘Giveaways’ tab enter your details
8th July
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NOMINATIONS Just for you
NOW OPEN! As a little thank you, you will
automatically receive an
exclusive digital download
pack filled with brilliant

Welcome to the launch of our printables, projects and

more – there is bound to be
exciting awards season – time something to tickle
your fancy!
to pick your favourites!
The British Sewing Awards are chance to have your say! We’ve made it super-easy
Readers' back, bigger and better than ever, to nominate your favourites. Simply complete the

Choice giving you the opportunity to

celebrate all of those wonderful
haberdashery and sewing shops,
not to mention the notions and supplies, that you just
can’t live without. The British Sewing Awards is a true
celebration of all the best in the industry and now is the
coupon opposite or go online at sewmag.co.uk/awards.
Once you have done this, you will be entered into our
incredible prize draw and will automatically receive
a bumper download pack of extra sewing resources,
projects and more. What are you waiting for? Ready,
set, nominate!

Sneak Peak at OUR JUDGES

JULIET UZOR MAY MARTIN STUART HILLARD DEBBIE SHORE

Juliet Uzor is the 2019
winner of the hit BBC
show The Great British
Sewing Bee. We're also
proud to say she's a Sew
columnist, too! You’ll find
her blogging or posting
on her YouTube channel
SewSoNatural.
May Martin is a former
judge on BBC’s The
Great British Sewing
Bee and a doyenne of
the Women’s Institute.
She has been sharing
her stitchy knowledge
with the public for more
than 40 years.
Stuart Hillard is a As well as being crowned
talented quilter with an Most Inspirational Sewing
eye for design, creating Personality in 2020,
successful fabric ranges Debbie is the founder
with The Craft Cotton of community site Half
Company. As if that wasn’t Yard Sewing Club. She's
enough, he's also also a respected project
published a number of designer, author and TV
popular sewing titles. presenter, too.

62
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The CATEGORIES
There are 20 categories in
total for you to nominate your
favourites in, ranging from
Best Overlocker Machine and
Independent Pattern House to Most
Inspirational Sewing Personality.

How it WORKS
We want you to nominate your
favourites. Once the nominations have
been collated, we will then take this to
the voting stage. Don’t forget, as well
as your download pack, you will be
entered into our prize draw, simply
for having your say.

WIN A HUGE GIN

HAMPER WORTH £200,
PLUS SEWING GOODIES!
Five lucky winners will get their hands on a fabulous bundle of
assorted goodies worth £100 each, including easy-sew, easy-
style dressmaking patterns and gorgeous fabrics. This year,
we've thrown in a luxury gin hamper, worth £200 too – don't say
we don't spoil you!

Don’t forget you can also nominate at sewmag.co.uk/awards

Readers' Choice
Machines
Best entry-level machine brand
Best all-rounder machine brand
Best quilting machine brand
Best independent pattern brand
Best customer service
The Personalities
Most inspirational sewing
personality
Best Independent Sewing Shop
Scotland Your Details
Title..................Initial.........
North of England
Surname............................
Wales Address..............................
...........................................
Ireland ...........................................

Favourite sewing book 2020-21 ...........................................

Best embroidery machine brand
Best top-spec machine brand
Best overlocker brand
The Brands
Best thread brand
Best sewing social star
Events
Top sewing workshop
Best exhibition/event
Midlands
Postcode............................
Tel No.................................
South West of England
Email..................................
South East of England Signature...........................
Date...................................
By entering we will add you to our email database to receive emails regarding our awards, great offers, and special
deals. We promise we won't share your information with anyone else and you can manage what we send you at any
time by following the link to our preference center at the bottom of any of our emails.

TERMS AND CONDITIONS

Best fabric stockist
Best major pattern brand
Best fabric cutting machine brand
Best sewing blog
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This competition is open to all UK residents aged 18 or over, excluding employees or agents of the associated compa-
nies and their families. One entry per person (duplicates will be void). The prizes detailed in each competition cannot
be exchanged for goods, or towards the purchase of goods at any retail outlet and are subject to availability. Prizes
cannot be exchanged for cash, or replaced if lost or damaged. Automated entries are disqualified. Illegible entries
and those that do not abide by these terms and conditions will be disqualified. The decision of the judge is final and
no correspondence will be entered into. No responsibility held for entries lost, delayed or damaged in the post, proof
of posting is not proof of delivery. Winners will be notified within 28 days of the closing date, a list of winners will be
available in writing on request from Marketing Department, 21/23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex,
CO2 8JY. By entering you agree to Aceville Publications contacting you regarding the (name of awards or survey). The
Promoter will use entrants’ personal details in accordance with the Aceville Privacy Policy. This is a limited offer and
maybe withdrawn at any time and subject to change. CLOSING DATE 4th June 2021

Send your completed form to: British Sewing Awards, 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex. CO2 8JY

63
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ADVERTORIAL

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AT HOME WITH
Stuart Hillard
“I've always fancied having a go
at indigo dyeing, so it's been a natural
next step for me to experiment”
ummer is here – my very favourite time
S of year for crafting outdoors! I have been
known to take a table, extension lead
and my sewing machine out into the
garden in order to enjoy my craft whilst catching a
few rays. If this isn’t possible, I’ll take my knitting
or hand sewing and tuck myself under a tree to
enjoy the fresh air. Sewing and crafting are both
moveable feasts for me, and if I can throw in some
dappled sunshine and a picnic basket, I’m
probably about as happy as it’s possible to be.
After a winter and spring working hard indoors,
The green dye in the fabric reacts with
oxygen and turns a vibrant blue
The vast majority of denim jeans
are dyed using indigo
the renovations at the farm are on track and I’m
allowing myself a little ‘play-time’. I’ve even
managed to claim some space in one of the barns
to use for messy craft jobs! Having some space for
messy jobs has sparked all kinds of thoughts:
thoughts of wet felting, painting fabric and
furniture restoration, but first… dyeing! I’ve
always fancied having a go at dyeing fabric and
I love World Textiles so it’s been a natural step
to experiment with indigo dyeing and Shibori.
Indigo is a natural plant-based dyestuff that’s
been around for thousands of years and pops
up in many different cultures. The Tuareg people
of the Sahara use it to dye their distinctive blue
scarves and head wraps, many traditional
Kimono in Japan are dyed with indigo, and its
use is widespread in much of Asia and Africa –
but of course, many of us see it most commonly
in our favourite denim jeans! Traditionally, the
dye uses a remarkable chemical reaction whereby
the fabric gets dipped into greenish sludgy water
which doesn’t look very inspiring and certainly
isn’t blue! But the sodden fabric is then lifted into
the air and as the dye in the fabric reacts with the
oxygen, a chemical reaction occurs and it turns the
most vivid and vibrant blue.
I’ve seen this done in India by artisans and
it feels like you’re watching magic! For home use,
I’m using a Rit Indigo dye kit, which works much
more like a traditional dye – it’s not such a party
piece as traditional dyeing, but the results are
much more predictable and easy to achieve.
I’ve been combining this dye with traditional
Japanese Shibori techniques, which is another
world of fun. There are three basic techniques to
Shibori, but they all work on the same principle
of creating some kind of resist and dyeing the
fabric. The resist can be tied, wax resist or
‘clamped’ and the results for all three
techniques are remarkable. There is enormous
skill involved in creating the spectacular
Shibori kimono, but anyone of any age
can experience the techniques and produce
wonderful results. Creating patterned cloth
65
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TEA BREAK
Photography: Rachel Whiting
in this manner is an incredibly powerful way of
feeling more connected with the things we make.
Although I have a barn to play in, it’s also possible
to do it in your kitchen or the back garden.
Inspired by my experiments with Shibori
and indigo, I have designed a new fabric range for
The Craft Cotton Company which launches
later in the summer... I’m just in the stage
of making some samples using the
first ‘strike-offs’ and it’s always an
exciting but slightly frustrating
process. It’s exciting because
I can finally get my hands on
real fabric and see how it
looks, sews and drapes, but
it’s frustrating because the
quantities produced are
very small – a metre or
two at the most – so it’s
impossible to make all the
things I want to at this stage.
I want to make myself
a shirt in every design for
summer nights sitting under a
tree sewing, but for now, I must
make do with a little patchwork –
maybe a traditional Komebukuro or rice
bag. You can find a tutorial for a Japanese
rice bag on my YouTube channel Stuart Hillard
Makes and a PDF pattern is also available on
my website. They are the most delightful,
simple bags; perfect for showing off a precious
piece of fabric or embroidery – best of all, they
are very simple to create. I’ll make my small
samples of fabric stretch as far as I possibly
can for now, but once the full bolts arrive,
the sky’s the limit!
Stuart x
You can check in with Stuart on
createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748,
Freeview 95, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or
visit @stuarthillardsews on Instagram.
 BEGINNER

You’ll be buoyed up to make this

ESSENTIALS
Nautical
l Fabric: red stripe, white;
scraps, red, blue l Cushion
pad, 30cm l Fusible webbing
l Iron-on interfacing l A6 card
blank Cushion Set
Ahoy there! It’s time to slip off your deck shoes and put pedal to the metal
to create Sophia Palmer’s two-step appliqué projects. The cushion is
a fantastic way to add a homely touch to a coastal kid’s room, while
the whale card is a stellar method of using up those odds and ends left
once you’ve finished the first project.

Sew a boat cushion and sew a rolled hem on the longest Using the templates, draw around
edge of both pieces. This will create the whale and belly onto fusible

1
Download and print the
an envelope back. Lay the webbing. Cut out and iron onto
templates from sewmag.co.uk.
rectangles on top of the appliquéd blue fabric.
Cut a 31cm square from white

We made ours in
Tilda 100% cotton
in blue spot print,
£16.99 per metre,
minerva.com
cotton, and two 20cm x 31cm
rectangles from red stripe fabric.
Using the templates, draw out a
boat motif and your chosen name
onto fusible webbing. Iron onto the
back of scrap fabric, then cut out
neatly. Remove the paper backing
and arrange on the cotton square.
2
Iron the shapes in place, then
topstitch with blue thread.
Take the red stripe rectangles
2
piece right sides together. Pin and Cut out the designs and
sew around the four sides, then turn iron onto red stripe fabric.
right sides out and press. Appliqué the shapes in place,
then add an eye and blowhole in
Make a whale card the same way. Secure the whale to
the front of the greeting. Use white
1
Draw around an A6 card blank
card to hide the stitches inside,
onto iron-on interfacing. Cut
out roughly, then iron onto red
and trim away any excess with a
craft knife.
stripe fabric. Use pinking shears to
cut inside the line so it’s slightly
smaller than the front of the card.

You could keep it short and

sweet with initials instead

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 HOME & GIFTS

FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk
/templates SOPHIA SAYS...
“Instead of a traditional
boat design, why not try
something diferent, such as a fish
or octopus, for the main motif?”

67
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 INTERMEDIATE
ESSENTIALS
l Fabric: printed cotton, 46cm
x 68cm; PUL, 46cm x 68cm
l Cotton or linen doily, or
placemat l Embroidery thread,
six-stranded: red, sky blue, sea
blue, white; gold l Zip, 43cm
l Tailor’s chalk pencil
l Embroidery needle
l Embroidery hoop
SIZE
32cm x 44cm
Snorkel at the ready! Make
beach trips a treat with our
Swimming
Pouch
This zipped purse designed by Susie Johns will be firmly tucked under our
arm this summer. Big enough for goggles, a towel and a cossie, the bag
boasts a waterproof lining and retro-style slogan – simply find an old doily
or a placemat with a pretty border to get started. You’ll also dive in at the
deep end with split stitch, a versatile filling technique that’s perfect for
both the quote and lighthouse motif.
Embroider
the motif
1
Download the template at
sewmag.co.uk, then print
out. Position the motif
centrally on the fabric. You can
use a dressmaker’s chalk pencil to
draw it, or create an iron-on version
using a transfer pen or pencil.
2
Place the fabric doily in
a hoop, with the design
positioned in the centre,
making sure the material is taut
but not over-stretched. Using two
strands of red, fill in the words ‘I do’
and ‘beside the’. With two strands
of sky blue, complete the remaining
words. Work two rows of split
stitch, close together, for thin line
and for thicker; you will need to
work three, four or even more to
fill out the shapes.
3
Using sea blue, embroider
the waves; use two rows of
split stitch for the upper
wave and one for the lower. For
the lighthouse, fill in the stripes
alternately with red and white
thread, working the lines of
stitching horizontally across
the shape.
4
Fill in the door of the
lighthouse with lines of
stitching running vertically,
and outline the windows in gold.
Finally, embroider the curved
mounds of sand, using the same
colour. Remove the fabric from
the hoop and press lightly on the
reverse to remove any creases.
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Make the purse
1
Measure and cut two 34cm x
46cm pieces of main fabric and
two the same size of PUL. Pin the
embroidered design to the centre of
one of the main pieces. Stitch in place
using thread that matches the doily.
2
Position the zip right side up on
one of the lining pieces, with the
edge of the tape aligned with one
long edge of the fabric. Pin in place or
use clips. Pin or clip a main fabric piece,
wrong side up on top, matching up the
top edges. With a zip foot on your
machine, stitch 8mm from the edge.
Open out and press.
3
Place the second lining piece,
right side up, and pin the other zip
tape along the top edge. Place the
second main piece on top, wrong side
up, and pin and stitch as before. Open
out and press. Topstitch the edges
alongside the zip for a neat finish,
with the stitch line approximately
4-5mm from the folded edge.
4
Open the zip about halfway, then
open out the purse, matching the
two main pieces together, and the
two lining pieces together. Align the
seams, with the zip teeth facing
towards the lining. Pin the edges of
fabric together, then stitch, leaving a
gap of about 7.5cm on the bottom edge
of the lining.
5
Clip the corners, turn right sides
out through the zip, and push out
the corners. On the opening in the
lining, fold the raw edges inside and
slip-stitch the folded edges together.
Push the lining inside the purse.
 HOME & GIFTS

Split Stitch
1 2 3
Working from left to right, bring Pull the thread through to form Repeat along the length of the line.
the needle up at the beginning the first stitch, then bring the To use split stitch for filling, simply
of the line to be worked, then needle up through the centre work lines of split stitch close together,
down a stitch length to the right. of the stitch, piercing the thread. following the contours of the shape to be filled.

We used ProSoft
FoodSAFE™
Pul Fabric from
Ab Fab Textiles,
£14 per metre.
abfabtextiles.com

69
sewmag.co.uk
 on

tune in...
Hosted by our wonderful designer Corinne Bradd,
the Crafts channel is home to a plethora of simple online
masterclasses. With no-nonsense and easy-to-follow
video demonstrations at your fingertips, you can stitch
along with Corinne from the comfort of your own home.
Choose from tutorials on quilting, home décor, makes for
baby and more, plus you’ll find dedicated playlists on
topics such as sustainable sewing, too.

...and
turn on!
Subscribe and join the community at youtube.com/thecraftschannel
 www.online-fabrics.co.uk FOR
10% OFF
USE CODE
SEW10

388-394 Foleshill Road, Coventry, West Midlands CV6 5AN

Tel: 02476 687776 | Email: info@online-fabrics.co.uk

Magical ... A mystical unicorn, made

from green-hued prints.
Simple shapes have been
stitched together and
stuffed to create a sturdy
yet soft finished result.
With felt and ric-rac hooves
plus a cute horn, it’s the
perfect plush friend to add
a touch of magic to your
child’s room.

Looking for sewing templates?

Simply visit www.sewmag.co.uk

71
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 BEGINNER
ESSENTIALS
l Fabric: cotton scraps;
denim scraps; cotton lining
l Interfacing l Snap hooks,
two (optional) l Sliding buckle
(optional) l Fray sealant
l Fabric stabiliser l Transparent
machine sewing thread
l Machine sewing thread,
assorted colours
To explore the
full range
of Janome
machines, visit
janome.co.uk
Showcase the stitching by alternating
the threads and fabric colours
Make the most of your Janome
machine with a
Sashiko Bag
From summer festivals to the daily dog walk, this handy
clip-on pouch will see you through every occasion. Create a colourful
patchwork design to coordinate with the stitches, as this tutorial
shows you how to use the sculpture stitch function, which is available
on most Janome mid-range machines. You will also learn how to
create fabulous feathers using scraps of denim – a stash-busting treat
for sewers who like to make the most of their materials.
Make the bag and stitch a strip of material. Make leaving the longer edge open. Trim
1
Download and print the and insert it before joining the the seams, clip the corners and
templates from sewmag.co.uk. patchwork flap to the lining, so that turn to the right side. Press, then
Create a small-scale patchwork as the piece is turned out, the strap join the chosen stitch sample
using a standard straight stitch, will be secured. sections together to create the
2
bag front and the bag back. Place
then cut to the size of the bag flap
piece. Snip cotton fabric the same
Join the patchwork flap to the
lining, right sides together. the long edge of the finished flap
size as the flap to act as the lining. Stitch around the three sides along the top edge of the back of
To add a buckle strap, double fold using a 1cm seam allowance, the bag, right sides together.
Stitch together across the long
open edge of the flap securing the
flap to the back bag section. Trim
and press.
3
With right sides together,
join the front and back of
the bag together along the
bottom edge. Trim and press. Add
a fastening to the front of the bag
if required; these tabs are made
with double folded fabric strips.
Thread the tabs through the snap
clasp links, place either side of the
flap on the back bag section, so
that both edges can be securely
stitched. Fold the secured tabs
threaded through the snap clasp
links inwards facing the bag back
section, so that all of the raw
edges are together. Alternatively, a
strap could be added at this stage.
4
Cut cotton fabric so that it
is the same size as the back
and front of the bag when
joined together. Apply interfacing
to the wrong side of the cotton.
Press both the main sections of
the bag and the lining, then place
the main section of the bag on top
of the lining section. Trim away
any excess lining fabric to match
the size of the bag.
5
With right sides together,
stitch the bag back to the
lining along the top edge.
Press the flap away from the raw
edge towards the main section of
the back of the bag, sandwiched
between the two pieces. Stitch
72
sewmag.co.uk

FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk
/templates
and trim the seams so that the raw
edge of the flap is enclosed, then
press. With right sides together,
stitch the bag front to the lining
along the top edge and press.
6 2
Keeping the right sides
together, lay out the bag so it
is flat, matching the front and
back main pieces and the front and
back lining pieces together. Place
the finished front bag top edge
under the flap matching to the back
of the bag and the front join seam
line. Place the flap extending from
the back section flat over the top of
the bag front section, so it sits on
top of the bag front but under the
bag front lining.
7
Join the front and back side
seams together along the main
bag section, then the lining
section shaping at the corners.
Leave a large gap open along one
side of the lining fabric section to
turn through. Trim seams, clip
corners and press.Turn the bag
carefully to the right side through
the gap, then press. Fold the
finished lining into the inside of the
main bag section. Press and stitch
the gap closed.
Make the feathers
1
Draw an outline of a feather,
then position this shape onto
denim fabric in line with the
73
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HOME & GIFTS
Stitch Savvy
‘Sculpture’ and ‘Hand-look’
style stitches are available
on many of Janome’s
computerised machines.
These stitches are often used
to accentuate design outlines
and to create a mock hand-
quilt style. They also work
well as an accent stitch. Use a
transparent thread for the top
thread and an ordinary sewing
or decorative embroidery
thread for the bobbin. As you
stitch the bobbin thread is
pulled up onto the right side
of the fabric and the stitch
appears magically as if it has
been created by hand. You
will find the ‘sculpture’ stitch
on most Janome mid-range
sewing machines and as you
progress through the range,
you will discover even more
stitches in this style.
Sculpture
Stitch
Hand-look
Stitch
grain of the threads. Apply tear-
away stabiliser to the shape,
then zig zag stitch down the
centre vein, so that the fabric
holds together once frayed.
Peel away the stabiliser
and apply fray sealant,
being careful to only cover
the zig zag stitches. Once dry,
turn over and use an unpicker
to gently tease out the threads
from the outer edge of the
feather shape. Work right up to
the centre zig zag stitches on
both sides. Group the finished
feathers together and secure
with a metal eyelet. Attach to
the bag with a cord.
READER OFFER

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 Cute Koala
The cuddly Australian bear takes
centre stage in The Make Arcade’s
mini cross stitch kit. Beautifully
packaged in a printed box, this
fun project is suitable for both
beginners and mavens. It comes
with an 8cm bamboo embroidery
hoop. All you need is a pair of
scissors to trim your threads – et
voila! £9, themakearcade.co.uk

Thread The Needle

SHOP
This dreamy pastel thread set by
Gutermann Creativ is sure to add
Crafty Kit some candy-coloured flair to your
Looking for the perfect holdall to carry creations. Featuring a selection of
all your sewing essentials? Enter the ten microfilament polyester threads,
Natsu bag by Japan Crafts – the ultimate its Micro Core Technology ensures
slouchy accessory. The bold patchwork
design offers a vintage feel, while the
smattering of Japanese flowers adds
an injection of Asian grandeur. £24,
japancrafts.co.uk
&SEW
To welcome the warmer weather,
even, smooth seams with a fine-
cross section and a silk-like sheen.
£14.99, johnlewis.com

we’ve curated must-have sewing

essentials. Whether you want
understated pastel tones, or a
rainbow of radiant hues, we’ve
got you covered!

Pastel
Pink Retro Revival
Floaty and Feeling groovy? The
delicate, this Fabric Fox’s Retro Rove
V-neck dress collection is a surefire
is perfect for way to inject nostalgia
warm, sunny days. into your garments. Laden
Complete with with bold geometric
oblique seams to shapes and inspired by
assemble the skirt 80s architecture and
to the bodice, the design, these prints
I AM Sherazade ooze quirkiness. Baby
pattern combines pink, canary yellow, and
a graphic style teal hues combine to
with an elegant form a stylish art deco
silhouette. Plus, who effect. £16 per metre,
doesn’t love a dress with thefabricfox.co.uk
pockets? From £7.10,
iampatterns.fr

Pocket It
Check out this April A-line dress
Sewing Stash from Forget Me Not Patterns. Made
Store all your must-have sewing tools for woven fabrics, it features in-seam
in one place with this pretty polka dot pockets and there are three different
box! The prime solution for a neat and bust fit styles available. As if that wasn’t
tidy workspace, it features a removable, enough, the skirt has two options: a
sectioned plastic tray for space optimisation. gathered and flat view, so you can
It’s sure to look fantastic next to your trul y choose your silhouette. £10,
machine. £33.99, mariescrossstitch.co.uk forgetmenotpatterns.com

Let us know which product is the star of your sewing room over at @SewHQ
on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, or by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk

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 Digital New!
Digest Projector-friendly
patterns
Did you know that all of our files are now suitable
for projectors? When you download this month’s
designs, you’ll discover a projectable file at the back
of your download pack. It eliminates the need for
printing, assembling and cutting your paper
Don’t forget to check patterns, leaving all the more time for sewing!
out the amazing digital For more advice, we recommend joining
community Facebook group
downloads that Sew has Projectors for Sewing.
to offer at sewmag.co.uk

Get started

First log in or sign up to the Sew

1 website at sewmag.co.uk for FREE.

Find the tab circled at the top.

700+ pattern
Downloads!
Search for a pattern by title, YOU CAN ALSO LOCATE
2 according to the project names
opposite. Click on the search tab.
THE TEMPLATES FOR THIS
ISSUE AND ALL OF OUR
PREVIOUS ISSUES AT
Now that we’re out and about again, why not whip SEWMAG.CO.UK/
TEMPLATES
Click the ‘Download Template’ up a couple of bags for your next big shopping
3 button, which you will find under
the main image.
trip? Head to sewmag.co.uk and follow our
‘Four Easy Steps’ to download each design.
LEATHER AND DENIM BAG PEACOCK CLUTCH

Save the pattern PDF by right

4 clicking to save on your computer,

then print out (DON’T fit to the page!)
SEW MAGAZINE 32

TILING DIGITAL PATTERNS

Note that most digital patterns need to
be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4
printouts in the correct order to form the
pattern, as indicated – so get some
sticky tape ready to join the sheets!

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 TEA BREAK

Time
saving tip!
Want to assemble your PDF
patterns the quick way? It’s all
about cutting
corners...

1
After printing
all the pages
of the
pattern, trim off
the corners from
each page, so
that the cut
touches the edge
of the rectangle.

2
With the corners cut, the pages will line
up perfectly – simply match up the lines
and stick down with tape or glue.

What’s Hot? Blog of the

Puppy Love!
More than a 3.2 million households acquired a new
pet during lockdown, the majority of them dogs,
month
Your Dressmaking
and the market in accessories is booming - but Toolkit
why not make your own and create something truly
unique? Our Dog Print Dog Bed can be made in a
If you’re anything like us,
quirky themed fabric or in something more subtle
you’ll be constantly on
to suit your decor, and there’s also a coat to match.
the lookout for more
handy tips and tricks
to add to your sewing
arsenal. The sheer
volume of different
things to learn when
it comes to
dressmaking
can be a little
daunting. Even
if you’re a seasoned
If you’ve managed to resist the real
pro with years of
thing but still hanker for a cuddly canine,
experience under
we’ve also got a plush pug toy, which is the
your belt, a little
perfect low-maintenance substitute. You’ll
reminder of the
find these plus other pet-themed projects
basics can’t hurt!
at sewmag.co.uk, along with a wide
Check it out at
range of adorable stitched toys.
sewmag.co.uk/blog

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template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · temp

Copy, resize or trace these patterns to make

the projects that appear in the magazine.

JULY You can also visit sewmag.co.uk and

download the full-size patterns for free.

TEMPLATE 1
Click & Stitch
To access the actual-size
templates for this issue’s makes,
right clicking to save on your
computer, then print out but don’t

TASTERS visit sewmag.co.uk, then click

on the ‘Downloads’ tab to view our
archive of sewing templates.
select ‘fit to the page’.

3
If you haven’t already registered,
you’ll need to create a log-in for

2
Select one of the July 2021
project packs, then click
‘Download Template’ on the
new page. Save the pattern PDF by
our website to allow you
exclusive access to all of our free
downloads and the masses of
templates we have up for grabs.

You could easily draw

out your own seaside
sentiment using the
spacing on this template
as a rough guide
Swimming Bag
Deep dive into embroidery
with this waterproof pouch
Designer: Susie Johns
Page: 68
Shown at 100%

© ACEVILLE PUBLICATIONS LTD | SEWMAG.CO.UK

All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

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plate tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters

FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk
/templates

Nautical Duo
Have a whale of a time with
this appliqué set

Page: 66
Designer: Sophia Palmer

Shown at 100%

s ewma g . c
o .u k
Visit us online
to download
and print all the
templates
full size!

© ACEVILLE PUBLICATIONS LTD | SEWMAG.CO.UK

All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

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template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · temp

Place on fabric fold

Embroidered Seagull
This little fella has got his sequin
eye on your chips
Designer: Carolyn Letten
Page: 42
Shown at 90%

LEG
1

TAIL

© ACEVILLE PUBLICATIONS LTD | SEWMAG.CO.UK

All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

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plate tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters · template tasters

FREE
TEMPLATE
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk
/templates

BEAK

CAROLYN SAYS...
“Invest in a
pair of flat-
D
nosed pliers
to pull the needle
through when
you attach the
finished wings”

er
ang ent
H m
ce
pla
C

E
B

r
nge nt
BREAST Ha em
e
INSERT c
pla
F
A

© ACEVILLE PUBLICATIONS LTD | SEWMAG.CO.UK

All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

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 It has never been more important to
THE create balance in your life, and if there’s

sew one fail-safe way to do this, it’s by

adopting a ‘waste not, want not’
approach and clearing out your craft

BOOK cupboard! We've also picked titles

for those curious about sewing
sustainably, plus TV presenter

Club Stacey Solomon shares her

revolutionary ‘tap to tidy’ method.

210 TRADITIONAL HOW TO SEW SEWING TAP TO TIDY

QUILT BLOCKS
By Tuva Publishing
Looking to start quilting but don’t
know where to begin? Try 210
Traditional Quilt Blocks – choose
from a huge selection of diverse
quilt block designs such as
Arabic Lattice, Arrow, Winter
Dahlia, Puzzle and Rail Fence.
Designed for novice and expert
quilters alike, this beautiful book
offers a plethora of step-by-step
guides to spark inspiration.
Designs include full-size throws,
table toppers and baby quilts.
Published 1st April. £14.99,
tuvapublishing.com
SUSTAINABLY
By Wendy Ward
Back in 2005, designer and
teacher Wendy Ward created
her first garment out of leftover
fabrics. Now, she’s here to show
you how to sew sustainably –
starting with your fabric
collection. There’s advice on
how to use your stash to create
clothing, homeware and art, as
well as hand-sewing projects,
textile collages and some easy
ways to patch and mend
damaged textiles.
Published 8th June. £12.99,
rylandpeters.com
STASHBUSTERS By Stacey Soloman
By Kate Haxell Dubbed an organisational
extraordinaire, TV presenter
Ever find yourself with a little fabric
Stacey Solomon shares her
left over from a major project, too
brand-new ‘tap to tidy’ method.
much to throw away and not
In her first-ever guide to crafting
enough for another big make? It’s
and organising, she reveals how
the perpetual problem which will
making calms her mind in the
often leave you mulling over the
midst of a busy life juggling
waste involved. Worry no more!
family and work. Whether it’s a
The eco-friendly answer comes in
DIY dream catcher, scented pillow
the form of Sewing Stashbusters,
spray or Joe Swash (her partner’s)
which is packed with 25 unique
favourite photo frame, you’re
projects, specially chosen to use up
bound to find a quick and crafty
the odd metre or less of fabric. It's a
project to tickle your fancy.
great way to clear space in your
sewing room. Published 20th Published 4th March. £14.99,
penguin.co.uk
April. £9.99, rylandpeters.com

on What’s on our sewing

Repeat
LOVE TO SEW
Canadian duo Helen and
Caroline make up the Love
To Sew cast. This crafty pair
discusses all things sewing,
engages with stitching
enthusiasts around the world
and divulges practical hacks.
lovetosewpodcast.com
room playlist this month Next month
we’re reading…
MODERN SEWING FOR Sew Your
SEWCIETY PODCAST THE WEEKEND Own Bags &
Devoted to stories from creatives
in the sewing industry, this
Introducing Beth and Nina, the
stars of this mother-and-daughter
Accessories
podcast boasts a hefty archive podcast. On weekdays, they’re by Shufuno Mishin
of 200 episodes to listen to. Plus, dedicated to their day jobs, while
you'll get tips and tricks to level on weekends, they sew like there’s Why not let us know
up your sewing game. no tomorrow. what you’re reading?
modernsewciety.com sewingfortheweekend.com @SewHQ

82
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 HEY YOU!
You’re invited
Good things come to those who follow
our Instagram... (psst, it doesn’t cost a thing)

Exclusive giveaways
you won’t find
anywhere else

Latest news, trends

and launches

Must tries and

buys for your stash

Editor-approved
craft picks

Bonus projects
with visuals

WANT TO GET ALL OF THE ABOVE STRAIGHT TO YOUR FEED?

FOLLOW US AT INSTAGRAM.COM/SEWHQ
 IN ASSOCIATION WITH

May Martin’s
Sewing
School
The Perfect Fit
The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure
you get the right size. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes,
so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements,
compare them to those on the pattern envelope or Size It Up panel opposite,
then you can make any necessary alterations. Cut out the paper according to
the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit
(for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder
to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to
the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant
waist or hip lines to your size.

l Measure yourself in your l Be honest with your measurements

underwear, preferably in a well-
fitting bra you will be wearing often.
l Use a new tape measure as they
can distort out of shape over time.
l Ask a friend to help you, especially
with tricky measurements such as
your back-neck to waist and height.
and remember that pattern sizes are
totally different to ready-to-wear high
street sizing.
l Use your measurements to help you
adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not
forgetting to take the required amount
of ease into account.

Taking Your Measurements

Measure while in the underwear you will be
wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably
snug, but avoid pulling tight.

Height Standing against a flat

Get started wall without wearing shoes,
HIGH BUST measure from the floor to the top
of your head.
FULL BUST
High bust Measure directly under
the arms, straight across the back
and above the bust.

WAIST Full Bust Take the tape measure YOU'LL LOVE

around the fullest part of your
bust and straight across the back.
OUR CONNIE
HIPS Waist Tie a length of narrow
DRESS
elastic around the waist and let it
AVAILABLE FOR FREE AT
settle naturally at your waistline, SEWMAG.CO.UK
then measure over it. Keep the
elastic handy for future garments.
Hips Measure around the body at
the fullest part. This is usually 18-
23cm below the waist.

84
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 IN ASSOCIATION WITH DRESSMAKING

Reading a Size it up
Pattern Once you have your body measurements, choose the closest size from the chart below. Remember,
there will be variations depending on which fabric and pattern you choose, so always make a toile first.
The basic markings you will find
on commercial dressmaking
patterns are important to 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24
familiarise yourself with.
These marks indicate various
techniques or steps and are best Bust cm 78 83 88 93 98 103 108 113 118
transferred onto your fabric
pieces once you’ve cut them. Waist cm 59 64 69 74 79 84 89 94 99
Hip cm 85 88 93 98 103 108 113 118 123
Back neck 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47
MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES
to waist
These lines indicate dress sizes.
Highlighting yours can help with cutting.
“When sewing stretch or jersey fabric, a
GRAINLINE
Align this mark with the grain of the
flexible stitch must be used.
fabric i.e. parallel to the warp A straight stitch does not extend with
(see below).
the fabric and will break. Although some
FOLD LINE sewing machines have a programmed stretch
This mark indicates that the
pattern piece should be positioned along stitch, it is possible to create a small zig zag
the fold of the fabric, creating a larger
‘mirrored’ piece.
stitch, 0.5-0.7mm wide and 2.5-3mm long.
To neaten seams, use an overcasting foot and a
stretch overlock or zig zag stitch. Test stitches
BUST/HIP INDICATORS on double fabric, giving them a good tug to
Located at the bust and hip points
on the pattern – make any necessary ensure that it stretches with the fabric.”
adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE
This is an opportunity to customise the
Understand your fabric
pattern to your preferences. Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start,
familiarise yourself with:

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS
These come in a range of sizes and
are used as points of reference on a
pattern to indicate where pieces
should be placed.
Warp These are the yarns that run the length of the
fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less
likely to stretch.
Weft These run over and under the warp threads
across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.
Bias The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of
the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a
finished piece that will follow the contours of the body.
Selvedge The non-fraying, woven edges that
run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.

Sailor Stripe Jersey, £8 per

TUCKS AND GATHERS
Bring these lines together
metre, croftmill.co.uk
before stitching. WARP
BIAS
BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS “A striped print
These indicate where buttonholes
should be made on a garment. is synonymous
with seaside chic! Choose
this royal blue and white
jersey to capture the
NOTCHES WEFT nautical look”
Match two pieces of fabric together CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID,
at these points. CROFT MILL

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 who does what...
Editor Lucy Jobber
lucy.jobber@aceville.co.uk
01206 505420
Deputy Editor Libby Loughnan
libby.loughnan@aceville.co.uk
Contributors
Heidi Wilkins, Melissa Hyland,
Sorcha Hornett, Jodie Sheehan,
Sarah Neal, Sophie Tarrant
Group Editor Lynn Martin
Advertising Director
Owen Cook
owen.cook@aceville.co.uk
01206 505939
Advertisement Sales
Samantha Kirby
samantha.kirby@aceville.co.uk
01206 505425
Art Director Phil Dunham
Graphic Designers
Gemma Eales, Cat Morton
Ad Production Angela Scrivener
Photography
CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk
Additional images Shutterstock,
shutterstock.com
Model Andreia, BMA Models
Fashion Stylist Boo Hill
Hair and Make-up
Dottie Monaghan
Accounts Denise Bubb
01206 505958
Subscription Enquiries
/Back Issues
0800 904 7000
Website Enquiries webmaster@
sewmag.co.uk
Head of Enterprise
Andrea Turner
Managing Directors
Matthew Tudor, Helen Tudor
Customer Service
aceville@dctmedia.co.uk
Distributed by Frontline Ltd.,
Peterborough 01733 555161
Published by Aceville Publications Ltd
21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road,
Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY
© Aceville Publications Ltd.
Toy safety: please note that toys with small
parts are not suitable for children under three
years of age. If making a toy for a very young
child omit any buttons and embroider the
details instead. Babies should be supervised
when playing with toys.
All projects from this issue and the FREE online
patterns are for personal home use only and
cannot be sold or used for commercial
purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew
are reproduced in good faith that they do not
infringe any copyright. The publishers are not
responsible for any safety issues arising from
any items created from projects contained
within Sew magazine. While all possible care
has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all
projects, we are not responsible for printing
errors or the way in which individual work
varies. Please read instructions carefully before
starting construction.
May Martin’s Beginner Tips
Most commercial patterns are
1 printed on dressmaker’s tissue
paper and have cutting marks for
more than one size. Each size is
identified by a different style of
marking for the cutting line. When
only one line is visible this indicates
that this is a common cut line for
all sizes.
Many patterns are available with a
2 series of variations on a garment,
which allows you to select different
elements to suit your style. These are
indicated on the pattern, with
alteration lines for different lengths.
Advice for
fabric prep
It is advisable to launder the fabric,
1 as you would the completed item,
before you start cutting. This ensures
that you will know how the fabric
reacts and reduces the possibility of
shrinkage in the completed garment.
2 Press the fabric with an iron on a
suitable setting, and lay out in a
large space ready for pinning the
pattern pieces to it.
Fabric is usually folded selvedge
3 to selvedge. With the material
folded, the pattern is pinned to the
top. Once cut, the opened fabric will
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be twice the size of the paper pattern
piece. If your fabric is patterned, it is
advisable to place the design
outermost so that you can lay out the
pieces in a pleasing manner to suit
the printed motif.
Pattern
preparation
In addition to starting with your
1 fabrics laundered and pressed, it
is also advisable to press out your
paper pattern pieces. You can either
choose to do this before you cut the
individual pieces required and iron
the entire sheet as a whole, or after
they have been cut.
Unfold the tissue paper and with
2 an iron on its coolest setting –
taking care not to burn the paper –
gently smooth out the creases, so
that all the folds are pressed flat.
3 By ironing them you will ensure
that the pieces lie flush with the
fabrics when pinned and will result
in cleaner, sharper lines when cutting.
The thin tissue can be ironed on a cool
to medium setting – if in doubt, press
a blank section of the paper first.
Placing your
pattern pieces
Place the pattern on the fabric
1 with the printed tissue side
uppermost. Some pieces will need to
be placed on the fold, this is indicated
on each specific part. The tissue
paper used for dressmaking patterns
means that you can see through to
the design of the fabrics. This is
essential when working with patterned
materials, allowing you to adjust the
placement of the pieces to ensure
continuity in the motif can be achieved
over joins in the garment pieces.
The ‘to fold’ symbol means that
2 the piece should be placed to the
folded edge of the fabric for pinning.
This will create both sides when the
cut piece is opened, for example two
sides of a top will be cut at once.
The other pieces should be placed
3 on the fabric with the grain arrow
running parallel to the selvedge.
Measure the distance from one end
of the arrow to the parallel selvedge,
repeat at the other end and move
the piece slightly until both the
measurements are the same. Once you
are happy with the finalised placement,
pin carefully in place using as many
pins as is necessary to secure.
4 Most patterns offer a layout guide
for the placement of the pieces
onto the fabric (see below). This
ensures that you lay out the pieces in
the most efficient manner.
Thread facts
l You should select a
thread that meets your
specific sewing needs. Your
fabric will have an influence
on the type of thread you
select. As a rule the
fibre content of your
thread should be the
same or similar to the fabric.
l Heavyweight fabrics require
a thicker thread and lightweight
versions require a finer thread. Very
lightweight or sheer fabrics are best
sewn with a very fine needle and an
extra fine thread.
l Using the correct thread thickness
may help reduce puckering, a problem
frequently encountered when sewing
with lightweight fabrics.
l Don’t forget to consider the care
requirements of your thread choice.
They should be compatible with the
fabric care recommendations.
Cutting tricks
l Once you’ve cut out all your
template pieces, keep them
together in a project bag or zip lock
bag so there’s no risk of accidentally
losing one.
l Always use a rotary cutter to
achieve neat, straight cuts.
l Invest in a cutting mat and keep it
clean and flat when not in use.
l Keep your fabric scissors sharp
and use them for just fabric.
l Iron your fabric before pinning your
templates to it.

Making the most of your machine
How to care for
your machine
l Always keep your machine under cover
when not in use to prevent dust gathering in
any moving parts.
l Clean your machine regularly, making sure
to unplug it first. Many experts advise against
using compressed air – a lint brush or dry
cloth should do.
l Always use good quality machine thread
to prevent lint build up. Avoid those with
waxed or glazed coatings as they are bad for
the machine.
l Brush out the bobbin case every time you
change the bobbin to help you keep on top of
any lint build up.
l Change the needle regularly as dull, blunt
ones will affect the stitching quality. Aim to
replace it after 8-10 hours of active stitching
or once you’ve finished a big project.
l After every use, make sure to check the
needle, bobbin and thread tension so any
problems can be addressed before you start
another project.
l Oil your machine regularly if you have a
mechanical model, referring to the instruction
manual. Only use a recommended oil – you’ll
need just a couple of drops each time.
Choosing the right
machine needle
l Your machine will likely come with universal
point needles, which have a slightly rounded
point. They can be used for sewing most
woven or knit fabrics.
l Sharp point (regular) needles are great
for woven fabrics like cotton and linen, as
they make even stitches and will minimise
puckering.
l Ballpoint needles have rounded points
and are designed especially to sew knit and
stretch fabrics.
l Embroidery needles have a larger needle
eye for thicker embroidery threads, and are
designed to prevent threads from breaking.
l Quilting needles have a tapered point that
can stitch through several layers of fabric
without damaging them.
l Topstitching needles have an extra large eye
and a deeper groove for heavier topstitching
and doubled threads.
l Wedge point needles are for sewing leather
and vinyl as they easily pierce the fabrics and
create a hole that will close back up afterwards.
Taking the plunge
Stitching expert and former judge on The Great
British Sewing Bee May Martin offers her top
tips on buying a sewing machine.
“My first sewing
machine was a Bernina
807. My parents bought
it for me in 1969 when
I started my fashion course at
teacher training college. It was very
basic and only had six stitches.
I pin-tucked and embroidered
my wedding outfit using that
machine, and I still have it in my
archive today. When I’m working
in my studio, I use my top-of-the-
range computerised Bernina. I
love it! Berninas are beautifully-
engineered and produce fabulous
quality stitching. However, they
tend to be quite heavy to carry
around, so I invested in three
computerised Janome sewing
machines that I can easily
take to classes.”
What do I need
to think about?
Consider what you’re going
to be making – do you just
want the basics or do you
want lots of stitches to
play with? If in doubt,
go for more features.
As your confidence
grows, you’ll want to
Scan this QR code to download
our free face mask pattern
87
sewmag.co.uk
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
experiment more and it’s frustrating if you’re
limited by the capability of the machine. Price
is also something to think about. My advice
would be to spend as much as you can afford,
and remember the adage – buy cheap, buy
twice! Go to a shop and try a few, then once
you’ve found a machine that suits you, shop
around for the best price. It may also be worth
paying a few pounds more to purchase from a
shop that will give you after sales support.
What should I look out for
on a test drive?
If it’s noisy to operate, it’s usually an indication
of bad quality and poor engineering – if it
sounds like a traction engine, avoid! Another
indication of the quality of stitching on a
machine is how well it makes a buttonhole.
Also consider how heavy it is, whether you’re
going to have to pack it away between projects,
and if it has a hard cover, which is really useful
for transporting. Mechanical or computerised?
Mechanical machines use knobs, dials and
levers to control stitch width and length
and thread tension, while computerised
ones tend to have menus that give settings
automatically for your chosen stitch. Although
the market gears mechanical machines
towards the beginner or sporadic sewer, I would
strongly recommend trying an entry-level
computerised machine. One great advantage
of a computerised machine is that it returns to
normal stitch settings when you turn it off.
E PROJ
FRE
EC
T!
 Summer Sale Now On
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Next month in

10
SIZES 8-18*
DESIGNS
FOR YOU!
Patterns worth £18+

l Create four swish-me l Create six essential

skirts from Simplicity's easy-
to-sew range
l Features include a side
button front, waist tie and
patch pockets
tops with short and
sleeveless options
l Master necklines, from
scoop and crew to V-neck
and square

You’ll love our

*Features subject to change. UK sizes. Pattern sizes may vary

August issue!
l Prepare for staycations with our
quick packing cubes tutorial
l Kids will adore our poolside
teddy project
l Plus, discover the latest The Great
British Sewing Bee news!

On sale 24th June 2021

89
sewmag.co.uk
 TEN MINUTES WITH...
Wendy
Ward
A
lthough Wendy Ward initially
discovered sewing at school, she
truly honed her stitchy skillset
when her dad gave her an old
Singer hand-crank machine. She grew up
with dreams of becoming a designer, doting
over the Clothes Show in the 1980s and citing
Caryn Franklin as her hero. At the age of
23, she finally took the plunge and enrolled in
university to study fashion. Now, she’s
making waves as a designer and teacher,
with a string of craft books under her belt.
We caught up with Wendy to find out more
about her new book How To Sew Sustainably,
and her passion for recycling, reusing, and
remaking fabric.
I started thinking about clothes and textile
waste when I wrote the dissertation for my fashion
degree in 2000. I realised just how damaging the
fashion and textile industries are, and that it was a
much more creatively inspiring challenge to use
leftover and waste fabrics rather than a seemingly
endless choice of new materials. After my degree,
I worked as a designer for a well-known high street
fast fashion brand and saw firsthand just how
disconnected designers and buyers were from the
people actually making the clothes and the
materials being used. Unsurprisingly, I quickly
became disillusioned and went to work for a small
family-run business that was establishing a
clothing brand using organic fairtrade cotton.
This gorgeous t-shirt dress is part of
Wendy’s Building Blocks project
The very essence of what fashion represents is
wasteful in the sense that it is constantly trying to
make us buy more. For fashion to become more
sustainable (which it will have to be) it has to
accept that we all need to consume less. The
industry needs to make less and make it better; as
consumers, we all need to be willing to pay a little
more. Clothing prices definitely don’t reflect the
true cost of making them. I retrained to teach in
2007 because I wanted to be more hands-on in
making clothes again and teaching seemed to offer
the perfect opportunity to do that. I also felt that
the time was right as more people were becoming
interested in making their own clothes. MIY
Workshop was the catalyst to start my own
pattern brand MIY Collection back in 2012. Lots
of my students were using my patterns in classes,
asking for more, and wanting to take copies away
from class to use again. I decided to see if a wider
audience would like them and they really took off.
Soon after that, I got my first book deal. I closed
MIY Workshop when I left Brighton in 2019. Since
I’ve moved back to Sheffield, I’ve taught on a much
smaller scale at sewing shops and in my local
community centre.
The most important message I’d like readers to
take away from my new book is to stop and think
about why they’re making something and to enjoy
the process of making it. I believe that if you’re not
present in the moment and enjoying the process of
making something, what’s the point? You may as
well just go out and buy something ready-made.
Sewing sustainably is a mindful practice of
ongoing modification, reinvention, remaking,
repairing, and interaction with our ‘stuff’. This
Why not make this zippered pouch from
leftover and recycled fabrics?
90
sewmag.co.uk
process becomes part of the story of the handmade
object – celebrating the old, the loved, the well-
used, the well-worn and creating unique, personal
pieces that reflect our history and our own
personal style.
Think before you sew – will you use or wear
what you’re about to make? So many times in my
sewing classes, I have seen beginners seduced by
novelty prints and bold colours only for the
resulting item never to be worn. Often the most
‘boring’ fabrics in dressmaking are those that are
the easiest to wear and that you will reach for time
and again: khaki linen, blue denim, black and
white jersey. Think before you buy fabric – ask
yourself if it’s cheap, is it too cheap? Someone
somewhere will be paying the true cost. Leave
no waste – keep and use your leftovers.
My Minimal Waste approach is inspired by
zero waste sewing, using shapes that intersect and
will generate the least amount of waste possible.
This results in interesting garment shapes and
enables a much more flexible approach to the
projects in the book. For instance, all of the
garments can be made to any size, for men
and women, and even adapted for children.
Quick fire round
What’s your sewing tool must-have?
Good, sharp scissors – one big
pair, one small.
Designing or teaching?
They both feed each other!
Favourite sewing technique?
I love a bit of hand tacking! Its slows me
down, it’s precise and it makes what could
be a fiddly job on the sewing machine, so
much easier and enjoyable.
How To Sew
Sustainably by
Wendy Ward, on
sale 8th June.
£12.99, published
by CICO Books.