Professional Documents
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Textile Fibre Forum Issue 142-June 2021
Textile Fibre Forum Issue 142-June 2021
JUNE 2021
THE 100% AUSTRALIAN OWNED TEXTILE ART MAGAZINE $11.50 AUD
$16.50 NZ
LIVING QUILTS
JANE SKEER
92
MONA HESSING
9 770818 630003
Redrock Books & Gallery, 67 Firebrace St, Horsham VIC 3400
P 0408 837 530 E info@fibreworks.net.au W fibreworks.net.au
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smileykylies@bigpond.com
Immerse yourself in all things
VINTAGE!
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04
58 ADVERTISER INDEX
59 READER GALLERY
61 BOOK REVIEWS
64 ALL THAT SPARKLES – Molli Sparkles
ng
Hessi
Mona
ARTIST PROFILES
War and Pi
eced
12 SHIMMERING - THE MONA HESSING TRIBUTE PROJECT
EXHIBITIONS
g
merin
Shim
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Front cover image: Jane Skeer, Yellow from The Steady Flow series, 2020, 83 x 65 cm each print, giclée print.
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$2000
Contemporary, creative fibre artists from across Australia,
working in any style of fibre art are invited to enter (conditions apply).
Exhibition 4th September to 3rd October 2021 at Gallery 76, Embroiderers’ Guild NSW Inc.,
76 Queen Street, Concord West NSW 2138
r i e s!
nt More information:
l lf or e www.australianfibreartaward.com.au
C a www.facebook.com/AustralianFibreArtAward
Most of us have a WIP of discarded materials that to most for giving permission for their use.
of us would appear to be destined for For the last decade of her life,
(work-in-progress) or a the rubbish or recycling bin. In the Hessing lived in Tuross Head on the
UFO (unfinished object) Reader Gallery, Joan Mahony shares southeast coast of NSW. Materials
tucked away somewhere— images of her sculptural works
made from materials commonly
that had belonged to her and had
been in storage since her death were
and possibly several. used on farms—nylon hayband and donated to the Eurobodalla Fibre
old hoses. Jane Skeers and Mandy and Textile Artist Group (EFTAG)
I
am embarrassed to say that I Gunn—both profiled in this issue— by local artist Barbara Romalis,
have a UFO dating back to 1976: have each repurposed various items, who had been a friend of Hessing.
a sculptural woven tapestry that including old books, marketing Two EFTAG members, Mischi West
was warped up on a large loom made flyers, bicycle inner tubes, and rachet and Lorna Crane, suggested using
from scaffolding but was removed straps, to make large wall reliefs these materials as the inspiration
when only half finished. I keep it in and installations. Repurposing offers for a group exhibition which led
an old wooden trunk, the sisal warp the added potential for imbuing the to Shimmering: The Mona Hessing
and pure wool weft still emitting their artworks with subtleties of meaning tribute project. Inspired by Hessing’s
powerful aromas when occasionally drawn from words, uses and histories artworks and her words, eight
I lift the lid and rediscover it. Each associated with the past lives of EFTAG members created artworks
time, I think to myself ‘I must finish these materials. that reflected their responses and
it – I just need a loom’. Some of you Other articles include a review of incorporated some of the donated
may have used the periods of social the exhibition Threads Through Art - materials, which included sisal
isolation during the pandemic to Australian Tapestries, which shows as well as some hand-dyed and
attack your WIPs; if not, you may tapestries made during the past hand-spun wool with silk slubs.
find it useful to read Molli Sparkles’ fifty years through collaborations The exhibition is an inspiring
advice about how to deal with WIPs between painters and weavers. While demonstration of how Mona Hessing’s
and avoid the guilt that they so often changes in subject matter and style influence can continue to impact on
arouse. One possibility is to recycle are evident, these works are all artists today.
them—or have someone else take on two-dimensional. In contrast, the Finally, US artist Jane Ingram Allen
that role. However, I am not yet ready important mid-twentieth century makes ‘Living Quilts’, patchworks
to do this with mine. move from flat weaving to sculptural made from coloured handmade paper
Patchwork is the quintessential forms is evident in the work of Mona embedded with flower seeds which
example of recycled textiles, Hessing (1933-2001), a leading germinate and grow into colourful
traditionally made using scraps of Australian fibre artist who was active art installations. There is something
dressmaking fabrics or recycled old from the late 1960s. Her experimental particularly moving about the idea
clothing. In the review of War and approach led to innovations in of these supposedly ephemeral art
Pieced, you will see a fascinating moving weaving off the loom and installations continuing to grow and
collection of historic quilts made into the realm of sculptural fibre renew themselves each year. At a
primarily from military uniform art, and she received several major personal level, these installations
fabrics, with a surprising array of commissions for large tapestries and have a particular poignancy when
colours and designs. Some of these fibre sculptures for private and public just a kilometre from my home is the
are further embellished with beautiful buildings in Australia and overseas. blackened landscape of bushland that
beadwork or embroidery. Through a good deal of hard work, was ravaged by a recent bushfire,
Ansie van der Walt describes an authors Cathie Griffith and Julie and which is already showing the
innovative project in which staff and Brennan were able to track down first green shoots of new life. The
students in the USA and Europe and obtain photographs of several renewal of the Australian bush after
used recycled clothes to create of Hessing’s large-scale sculptural a fire is like a natural Living Quilt
modular tapestries that could be works, which are used to illustrate which we see all too often, but which
used to personalise standard refugee the article. We are very grateful is a reminder of the resilience of the
shelters provided to Syrian refugees to those who now own or curate natural world.
in Jordan. Three contemporary artists these artworks for providing the
show that a creative eye and lateral photographs and to Norman Sanders,
thinking can lead to imaginative use who manages Mona Hessing’s estate, Moira Simpson
Mona Hessing
Australia
From the 1960s through to the 1980s, Australian fibre artist, Mona Hessing
(1933-2001) was instrumental in bringing weaving from the constraints of fine
cloth made on a loom to three-dimensional constructions and monumental hand-
woven forms incorporating knotting, twisting and folding. Her innovative methods
threw away convention and had a great influence on contemporary weavers in this
country. Mona, although often described as softly spoken and modest, raised the
profile of weaving as an art form and must be regarded as one of the most important
twentieth century artists in Australia
Mona Hessing, Circular rug, 1965, 3.5 x 271 x 264 cm, wool, hessian. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne.
Purchased 1999 (1999.101). Photo courtesy of National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne.
ona was an only child who Art School). At college, she studied though his great love was painting.
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ARTIST PROFILE
Mona Hessing, not titled, late 1960s, 124 x 145 cm, woven tapestry, wool. This piece hung in the Office
of Kolos and Bryant Architects, Sydney, during the 1960s. Photo courtesy of Shapiro Auctioneers.
Contemporary Tapestry in Lausanne. and returned to India again. She and construction method, Mona
In 1973, she exhibited at the National was excited to be there, and for would ad lib everything. She saw
Gallery of Victoria with ceramic the first time in her life identified working simply as an advantage and
artist Marea Gazzard in the ground- a genuine sense of belonging; she ultimately how she would work in
breaking exhibition Clay + Fibre which said it always felt like she was going the future. She felt that she learned
opened heated discussion over the home. Going to the more rural areas more from that one project in India,
boundaries between art and craft. interested Mona, because she could working with the limited materials
Works that Mona produced during watch people going about their and palette, than reading books or
this period were Circular Rug (1965), daily tasks in a natural, unaffected, her experiments back in Australia.
Vestment (1969), Nimbus (1969), Scoop unselfconscious way. She loved the She sourced materials from India,
(1972), and Trail (1975). creative activities that came from one of her favourites being hand-
After separating from Leonard, honest necessity: ’When they need spun tussah silk, which was difficult
Mona left Australia and travelled something, beautiful things happen’. to get. She liked to think that a leaf
around the world on a very limited Mona was commissioned by an or a twig embedded in the roughly
budget. She travelled to Mexico, Indian collector to make a large spun silk had come all the way from
Spain, Portugal, the UK, Crete and work and took the opportunity to India. Traditional materials like
finally India. Being in India was a learn about the materials, where wool, silk, jute and sisal were not the
great turning point in her life; Mona to find them, and how to work with only materials that Mona used and
stayed for six months and completed them in a different environment. almost anything she was drawn to
a large hanging for a collector, before She had no loom or equipment and had potential. She experimented with
returning to Australia. Two years had to work in a very uncomplicated synthetic fibres and unusual items
later she went back to India, working way. She nailed a piece of timber such as transparent tubing, rope,
on projects that would ultimately to the wall and with a tensioned sticks, old sheets, anything pliable
provide sufficient material for a one- warp, devised systems of working that she could manipulate. ’I use
person show in Sydney. In 1973, Mona in woven segments. Although materials that are available to me
was awarded a Churchill Fellowship knowing roughly a work’s size, shape, now… I may feel drawn to something
completely different at some time maximum out of the minimum … You Auditorium and was twenty-four
in the future … as I work, I allow the can do so much with one material, metres long, two-and-a-half metres
materials I’m using to dictate what one colour, one tone …. by simply high, and weighed over a quarter of
kind of pace they really want to adopt.’ manipulating it in different ways you a tonne. To enable it to be moved,
Mona didn’t consider anything a can get a million combinations, a lifted and hung, Mona chose to create
mistake, allowing things to happen, million beautiful changes happening it as a series of components to be
sitting back and reappraising, within that one thing.’ assembled like a large collage. As
keeping in touch with the work as Mona became increasingly it was to be hung in the space for a
a whole and not being distracted well known for her large works number of years, Mona thought both
by small sections. Sometimes she and received a number of major she and the viewers would tire of it
imagined what a work would look commissions. Her first commissioned and the feel of the space would also
like, only to find the finished piece tapestry was for the Wentworth change over time, so she wanted the
looked completely different. ’The Memorial Chapel in Vaucluse in work to be flexible. It was constructed
actual behaviour of the material is 1967; others included works for from individual rectangular pieces
the number one ingredient, whether the Menzies Hotel, Sydney (1969), which ranged from thirty centimetres
something wants to fall or whether the University of New South Wales to one metre wide. These were
something wants to sit out stiffly or (1971), the Australian Embassy in primarily woven in India from hand-
whether something has to be held Paris (1977), the Orange Civic Centre, spun Indian wool and a little silk. She
in…it’s telling you what it wants to do.’ NSW (1978) and the Sydney Masonic chose wool as it is sympathetic to
Mona loved colour but used it Centre (1979). dyeing, can resume its original shape
sparingly. She always dyed the Banner, the work that she after being folded, and can be easily
materials herself and often aimed produced for UNSW, took nine maintained. The work was assembled
to gain a striped, uneven effect. I’m months to complete. It was made in situ with Mona ad-libbing as she
very interested always of getting the for the large foyer of the Clancy hung so that the three layers could be
Mona Hessing, Vestment, 1969, 250 x 161.3 cm, tapestry, Mona Hessing, Nimbus, 1969, 360 x 188 x 13 cm, wool, jute, synthetic yarns, hand dyed with synthetic dyes.
wool, jute, sisal, rayon. National Gallery of Victoria, Collection of the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences, object no. 87/1156. Photo courtesy of MAAS
Melbourne. Purchased 1970 (D11-1970). Photo courtesy of
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne
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Mona Hessing, Scoop, 1972, 320 x 91 cm, wool and
cotton: woven and assembled. National Gallery of
ARTIST PROFILE
Mona Hessing, Not titled, 1972, dimensions variable, 208 x 200 cm installed, woven tapestry, Mona Hessing, Trail, 1975, 20 x 20 x 10 cm (plus tails), hand-spun and
twenty panels, natural wool and coir weft on a cotton warp. Private collection, Sydney. plied cotton, dyed jute yarn, dyed wool. In the collection of Ararat Gallery
Photo by Jenni Carter. TAMA. Photo by MDP Photography & Video, courtesy Ararat Gallery TAMA.
_____
BANNER IS A COMPLETELY
ABSTRACT PIECE; MONA
WAS MINDFUL THAT IT WAS
PART OF THE EXISTING
BUILDING, NOT AN OVERLY
DECORATIVE ADDITION,
SO NEEDED TO WORK
HARMONIOUSLY WITH THE
EXISTING ARCHITECTURAL
FEATURES.
_____
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ARTIST PROFILE
Mona Hessing, Songlines, 1995, 19 x 52 x 52 cm (plus tails), unspun raw jute and Mona Hessing, The Offering Series - Simple Gifts 1, 1995, 12 x 40 x 50 cm, part A of
dyed, glued, hand-spun silk. © The artist’s estate, Ararat Gallery TAMA and Ararat two plant fibre baskets. Donated to the Western Sydney University Art Collection from
Rural City Council. Photo Terence Bogue. the Estate of Mona Hessing, copyright courtesy of the Estate. Photo by Sally Tsoutas.
a growing, changing thing, and later silk, some unspun wool along with moved to Tuross Head on the NSW
rearranged into something else. ‘I raw jute and sisal. Natural colours South Coast in 1990 to care for her
have some notion of the feeling that predominate, with earthy shades mother, also named Mona, who was
I’d like to achieve, or the presence darker at the base becoming lighter an active member of her community.
that I’d like to create … but I never moving upwards. Apart from the She began working and exhibiting
work from a cartoon or drawing. This commanding views of the work more seriously again, producing
is why I always work alone, why I can’t from the floor of the foyer, the smaller works including: Songlines
have assistants, because half the adjacent spiral staircase provides a (1995), The Offering Series - Simple
time I don’t know what to tell them to series of interesting perspectives. Gifts 1 & 2 (1995), and The Offering
do. I don’t know myself until I’m doing The commissioned title comes Series - Celebration Bowl (1995). In
it. I ad lib everything always.’ from Psalm 119, verse 105 and is 2001, aged 68, Hessing died suddenly
Banner is a completely abstract interpreted by Mona as ‘man’s search of a brain haemorrhage and was
piece; Mona was mindful that it was for self-realisation’. survived by her partner of recent
part of the existing building, not Mona had a deep desire to years, Norman Sanders. In August
an overly decorative addition, so make. ’Making is the very basic 2001, a reserve next to her property
needed to work harmoniously with primitive desire to be involved in a Shimmering was named Mona
the existing architectural features. truly creative activity… the thrill of Reserve as a tribute to both Mona
Using what was for her an unusually creating a presence I always find and her mother.
bright palette, Mona, described it as quite astonishing.’ When asked
‘a swim of colour from side to side’. ‘Why Weaving?’, Mona replied: ‘It’s a Cathie Griffith with Julie Brennan.
In 2020, after months of cleaning, personality thing. I function best in
repairing and devising a new and an isolated situation. I like working All images of Mona Hessing’s
more practical hanging system, the alone. Weaving takes a lot of time and artworks are © Estate of Mona
enormous tapestry was reinstalled. It you have to be with yourself for long Hessing, used with permission of
is one of the few of Mona’s tapestries periods … I tend to be fairly quiet and I Norman Sanders and current owners
in Australia which is still hanging in do a lot of thinking while I’m working. of the artworks.
the space for which it was originally I listen to music and am quite active
designed. while I am weaving.’ Mona found Quotations by Mona Hessing from an
Another that remains in its original being in contact with and talking to a interview with Hazel de Berg in 1972.
location is A Light Unto My Path in the lot of people utterly exhausting. ’I’m Sound recording in the Hazel de Berg
Sydney Masonic Centre. It was made simply not a verbal person’, she said. collection at the National Library of
for the cavernous foyer and was ’I’ve somehow selected the occupation Australia. https://trove.nla.gov.au/
intended to serve both acoustic and which wears me least of all.’ work/18845857
decorative purposes. It comprises In later years, Mona moved to
four cylindrical woven shapes with rural NSW where she bred horses, Works by Mona Hessing will be
different lengths from five to seven participated in Landcare projects, and exhibited in the Know My Name
metres high and a diameter of up continued to make smaller weavings, exhibition at the National Gallery of
to one and a half metres. Materials including the Cycle Series One (1984), Australia Part 2 which opens late
consisted of hand-spun wool and her response to severe drought. She July 2021.
_____
Mona Hessing,
The Offering Series –
Celebration Bowl, 1995,
40 x 64 cm, recycled silk
fabric bowl. Western
Sydney University Art
Collection. Photo by
Sally Tsoutas.
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SHIMMERING -
EXHIBITIONS
Julie Brennan
Julie Brennan,
Metamorphosis II - A Season
of Fire, 2020, 165 x 30 cm
(diameter), wool, silk, sisal,
jute and kozo bark, polyester
lining and filling. Photo by
Stephanie Simko.
Detail: photo by the artist.
Julie Armstrong
EXHIBITIONS
@globalvillageemporium
@juliearmstrongstudio369
Alison
Bogg
Alison Bogg, Fortis et Liber, 2020, 223 x 45 cm, cotton rope, sisal, silk, silk
yarns (metal and wood frame). Photo by Julie Brennan.
aliartisan.com
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AUTHOR: Julie Brennan with Cathie Griffith
EXHIBITIONS
lornacrane.com
@lornacraneart
@fibreworkspambula
Facebook: Lorna Crane and
Lorna Crane Artist Lorna Crane, Fragile Earth I - Deliverance (detail), 2020, 92 x 303 cm, cotton, silk, organza, tarlatan, jute, yarn,
ink, cotton threads, acrylic paint and oil pastels. Photo by Cathie Griffith.
Cathie Griffith
Cathie Griffith, a fibre and mixed media artist, sees herself primarily as a storyteller.
‘My art practice focuses on my experiences as I interact with the world, the
people I meet and their stories’. A dedicated recycler of materials, she sees
value in cast-off objects, which often become an integral part of her artworks.
For this exhibition Cathie chose to make works which she hoped would reflect Cathie Griffith, Rhythms Repeating (detail), 2020,
both Mona’s creative philosophy and methods. Photo by Julie Brennan.
Roslyn
Holmes
Roslyn Holmes, Transference, 600 x 200 x 150 cm (variable), sisal, rope, seeds and grass. Photo by Stephanie Simko.
Roslyn Holmes has immersed herself group of five connected hanging just experienced.’ Mona’s work is
in her own practice after a career as a sculptures emerging from Mona architectural and the relationship to
Visual Arts secondary school teacher. Hessing’s unravelled sisal rope. the space around it is very important.
Gathered seeds and grasses are To honour Mona, Roslyn’s rope
Her focus is sculptural weaving caught in the fine layers of fibre. starts at the ceiling, becoming the
with plant materials; she also Roslyn’s inspiration for this piece protective and transparent cocoons
uses tarlatan cloth and etchings was Mona’s determination to ‘… that have collected grass, seeds,
on rag paper from her print studio, allow things to happen…’. ‘I chose feathers and singed leaves from
feathers, linen rope, beach plastic, to work with Mona’s natural sisal the hill on her property. The forms
driftwood, seed pods, shells, wire nine-strand plaited rope and have are related to each other and are
from multicore telephone cable, and come to love this strong and resilient connected to the space with the rope
discarded electrical cords. Roslyn material which when deconstructed falling to the floor.
works intuitively, using the landscape to individual fibres becomes very
for inspiration, exploring memory, fragile… It encapsulates raw feelings
identity and a sense of place. of threat, exposure and the unknown,
@roslynholmes_artist
Her work Transference is a a reflection of the horrific summer
Stephanie’s background in
interior design influences
both her textile and sculptural
work through the exploration
and juxtaposition of form,
light, colour and space. Her
inspiration includes the natural
and urban environment and
her love of travel. Inspired by
Mona Hessing’s description of
her life and work as an interior
designer and weaver in the 1972
interview with Hazel de Berg,
Stephanie decided to explore
and experiment with some
of the ideas discussed. This
included: using a limited palette
of materials; using minimal
equipment; undertaking her own
dyeing; using tones of a single
colour; and incorporating some
fibre from Mona’s collection.
‘Mona acknowledged that
she was an introvert with a rich
inner life; she enjoyed working
alone and found being in contact
with people exhausting. The
_____ artwork’s larger timber frame
represents her private life and
THE STITCHING OF HER FIBRES ON THE the smaller one her public life
FELT MARKS LIFE’S JOURNEY: A THREAD and can be seen as windows
to both her studio and to life.
WITH STARTS AND STOPS, TWISTS AND The felt band weaves these two
TURNS, BUT WHICH FLOWS. realms together. The stitching of
_____ her fibres on the felt marks life’s
journey: a thread with starts
and stops, twists and turns, but
which flows. The use of spotted
gum leaves for dyeing and the
timber frame pay homage to the
tree beside her studio.’
@steph.simko
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 19
AUTHOR: Julie Brennan with Cathie Griffith
Mischi West
EXHIBITIONS
Living
FEATURE
Quilts
Jane Ingram Allen is an artist
who makes transformational,
outdoor, public fibre art
installations using handmade
paper and seeds. She calls
them ‘living quilts’ because
the handmade paper quilts
have seeds embedded in the
pulp which germinate and
grow to create a living artwork
that changes over time.
M
y living quilts are made original paper quilt. After the blooms of WEAD: Women Eco Artists Dialog
of handmade paper in a disappear and the flowers have made an international network of ‘feminist
colourful graphic design, seed, it goes to sleep and waits to eco artists, educators, curators,
sometimes based on a traditional quilt reawaken the next spring. The living and writers who are concerned with
pattern, and connected uniquely to quilts can continue for many seasons making, displaying and sharing their
the place and time of the installation. and depend on nature and humans. views on ecological and social justice
The living quilt is beautiful in all its Watching this artwork over time helps art’ (https://directory.weadartists.
phases of transformation. With rain us appreciate the natural cycle of org). I was selected as the first WEAD
or watering and time, the paper life and understand the importance artist-in-residence to undertake a
pulp begins to dissolve into mulch of weather, water, soil conditions, public art project with the Lancaster
to nourish the earth, and the seeds and human interactions. We cannot Museum of Art and History.
start to sprout. Initially, the seedlings control nature, but we can work with During a three-week residency
are different shades of green with nature as partner and co-creator. in February-March 2016, I created
unique leafy textures, but eventually My living quilts began in 2016 Lancaster Eco-Quilt during open
they bloom as wildflowers in the with an artist-in-residency project in studio sessions and workshops at
same colours and pattern of the Lancaster, California. I am a member the Museum’s Cedar Art Center in
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 21
FEATURE
_____
downtown Lancaster. The handmade city park in Lancaster, California. I quilt design was in red, yellow, blue
paper quilt featured California golden made a raised bed about eight feet and white with seeds for wildflowers
poppies on a blue background with by ten feet using wooden boards and in colours to match the paper pulp.
white borders, since this area is wove a headboard and footboard for Many local people helped to make
famous for fields of golden poppies the flower bed with local, trimmed the blocks for Living Quilt for Newnan,
in the early spring. For the golden branches. The headboard, footboard and I worked with local master
colour in the quilt I used abaca pulp and raised bed can remain in place gardeners to build the raised bed and
and dyed it with a non-toxic fibre for years until they too dissolve as make the headboard and footboard
reactive dye. I used cotton blue jeans’ compost. The transformative process of local branches. Living Quilt for
pulp for the blue colour, and natural from installation to flowers takes Newnan was installed in a city park
white abaca pulp for the borders. about two to three months, and the at a dedication ceremony on August
Seeds for California poppies were in flowers usually reseed and come 30, 2017. After I left the residency,
the gold coloured pulp, and seeds for back in subsequent years. local people continued to take photos
California bluebells in the blue pulp. I created another living quilt of its progress. The handmade paper
The off-white abaca pulp contained installation in Newnan, Georgia, dissolved into mulch, and the seeds
seeds for Baby’s Breath wildflowers. in August 2017, as an artist-in- produced some flowers in October
Stencils for the quilt design were residence at Newnan Art Rez (www. and November 2017. I also received
made with Buttercut stencil material newnanartist.org). For this living a photo showing the Living Quilt for
that were adhered to my regular quilt I chose a house motif based Newnan blooming like crazy in May
8.5 x 11-inch papermaking molds. on a traditional Southern mansion, 2018, after its first winter. It has also
The finished quilt was installed since Newnan is known for its many returned with new blooms in 2019
with community participation at a beautiful antebellum homes. The and 2020.
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 23
Another of my living quilts, October and November. Flying geese showing Living Quilt for Santa Rosa
titled Living Quilt for Santa Rosa, also symbolise being able to escape changing over time. It continues to
FEATURE
was installed in November 2018 at from disasters and migrate to a new bloom each Spring.
Rincon Ridge Park in Santa Rosa, place with the seasons. The quilt is In Spring 2019, I created a living
California. This project was funded by formed in strips with blue geese on quilt art project titled Guns into
a grant from the City of Santa Rosa. a white background and borders of Flowers in Sacramento, California. I
Artists were invited to respond to the orange pulp. The blue colour for the worked with high school art students
devastating October 2017 wildfires geese in the quilt is paper pulp made from Natomas Charter School,
that cost lives and destroyed many from recycled blue jeans, and the and we installed the living quilt on
homes in Santa Rosa. My artwork off-white sky is the natural colour March 16, 2019, in a park near South
celebrates the healing powers of abaca pulp. The orange for the Natomas Community Center. This
of nature and the beauty of life borders is abaca pulp that I dyed project focused on gun violence and
coming back after disasters such as with a non-toxic fibre reactive dye. was conceived following several
wildfires. Living Quilt for Santa Rosa Each colour of pulp contains seeds of tragic mass shootings at schools in
uses the traditional Flying Geese local wildflowers in the same colour. the US. The intention was to raise
quilt pattern, since flying geese are This link (https://www.youtube.com/ awareness and initiate dialogue
common sights in the skies during watch?v=6rfH104j92o) has photos about gun violence in a vivid way by
Living Quilt for Santa Rosa, 2018, 8 x 10 x 6 feet, handmade paper, dye, seeds, string, branches, boards, soil. Finished installation at Rincon Ridge Park,
Santa Rosa, California, on 25 November 2018.
Guns into Flowers, 2019, 8 x 10 x 6 feet, handmade paper, dye, seeds, string, branches, boards, soil, installed at South Natomas Community Center Park, Sacramento,
California on 16 March 2019.
Living Quilt for Sojourner Truth, 2020, design for installation to be completed in November 2020 at Sojourner Truth Community Garden, Sacramento, California. The
finished work will be 8 x 10 x 5 feet, handmade paper, dye, seeds, string, branches, boards, soil.
transforming handmade paper guns Sacramento’s new Artist-in- direct escaping slaves northward to
into living flowers. My living quilt for Residency Program (https://arts. freedom. Like the other living quilts,
Guns into Flowers had a motif of guns cityofsacramento.org/Programs/ Living Quilt for Sojourner Truth will
made from paper pulp containing Sacramento-AIR). Living Quilt for also remind us of nature’s cycle of life
seeds of local wildflowers which Sojourner Truth commemorates and our responsibility as caretakers
bloomed in early summer 2019 and the legacy of this former slave of the earth.
again in Spring 2020. who was a famous abolitionist and
My living quilt series continued spokesperson for women’s suffrage. Jane Ingram Allen
in November 2020 with a public For this installation I used the https://janeingramallen.wordpress.com
art installation at Sojourner Truth traditional North Star quilt pattern. All photos by Timothy S. Allen
Community Garden in Sacramento, Some historians say that North (unless noted in caption)
California as part of the City of Star quilts were used as signs to http://allentimphotos2.wordpress.com
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 25
We sell
colour,
so you can
be creative.
AUTHOR: Moira Simpson
EXHIBITIONS
military fabrics, displayed at The David Roche Foundation, Adelaide, from 10th
September to 19th December 2020. The quilts in the exhibition are from the
collection of Dr. Annette Gero, one of Australia’s leading quilt historians, who
has been collecting and documenting quilts since 1982.
Beaded soldiers’ quilt, 1860–70, India, 160 x 160 cm, military uniform wool, beading, all hand-sewn.
Photo by The David Roche Foundation courtesy of Annette Gero.
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 27
AUTHOR: Moira Simpson
EXHIBITIONS
Installation shot showing on left: Woollen signature quilt, 1892, England or Canada, 132 x 132 cm, wool, hand-sewn, no back, hand-embroidered. Centre: Aunt Julia’s quilt,
mid- to late 19th century, Moravia (now Czech Republic), 204 x 169 cm, woolen uniform fabric from dress uniforms. Right: World War Two Red Cross quilt, c.1943, United
States of America, 261 x 200cm, cotton, machine pieced, hand quilted. Photo by The David Roche Foundation courtesy of Annette Gero.
O
ne might expect that quilts an extraordinary collection of quilts, were some quilts that one might
made from military uniforms many displaying sophisticated and expect to see in an exhibition
would be limited in colour; intricate patterns and designs, of military quilts. There was an
that the thickness of wool fabrics highly skilled work including orange and cream signature quilt
would impede the creation of finely intricately pieced construction from Canada with flower motifs
pieced, intricate designs; and that and embellishments of raised outlined in stitching and a signature
the skills of the makers would be appliqué, fine beadwork, or delicate embroidered on each of the 384
limited so the design and fabrication embroidery, and an unlimited palette, petals. A World War Two Red Cross
would be rudimentary; however, reflecting the diversity of colours of quilt from the USA comprised red
as this exhibition dramatically uniforms from past centuries and crosses against a white background.
illustrated, such assumptions would different countries. Both of these are types of quilts made
be wrong. War and Pieced presented Amongst this diverse collection, to raise funds.
There were quilts that displayed Aunt Julia’s quilt is believed to have demonstrated an alternative
a subtle beauty while others dazzled been made in Moravia (now part of source of fabric: cigarette silks,
the eye, such as a military quilt the Czech Republic) and date from each displaying a different motif or
made in Germany in the nineteenth the mid- to late-nineteenth century. portrait of a World War One Allied
century constructed from 9600 tiny However, the rich and harmonious leader, including Lord Kitchener,
red and white squares. Many other palette of predominantly blues, King George V, Emperor Nicholas
quilts, however, surprised me greatly pinks and crimsons — which match II of Russia, and the Greek prime
in terms of design, materials and European dress uniforms of the minister, M Venizelos.
workmanship and challenged my time — imbued it with a sense of Several quilts were based on a
preconceptions of military quilts. For modernity, as if influenced by the Op medallion or framed composition
the purposes of this review, I have Art movement. (i.e. composed of multiple centred
selected nine personal favourites. A quilt made around 1920 squares), some of them dazzling in
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 29
EXHIBITIONS
the complexity of their piecing. One of Wales plumes at the corners cuirassiers, in white uniforms;
of these, a beaded soldiers’ quilt of the second inner square, all of military musicians playing trumpet,
made in India and dated to 1860-70, these heavily beaded. The border French horn, violin, cello, flute,
featured a central panel with motifs was indeed incredible: dimensional bassoon and clarinet; court jesters,
outlined with beads each sewn on appliqué, comprising as many as and folk in civilian clothing.
individually to a tiny circle of fabric, seven layers of tiny fabric pieces, Another was a mid-Victorian
while the outer sections were filled formed a linear pattern around regimental bed rug featuring
with intricate patterns of squares, the edge of the quilt, interspersed exquisite embroidery in three central
rectangles and triangles. with motifs of hearts, diamonds embroidered panels. It was made
One of the most dramatic was and flowers. This large and vibrant by Sgt. Malcolm Macleod while in
a large ‘soldier’s patchwork with quilt was displayed on an almost- India with the 72nd Regiment (Duke
incredible border’, made during the horizontal plinth in the centre of the of Albany’s Own Highlanders). At
Crimean War. Every section of the second gallery forming a physical and the top, the figure of a Royal Navy
medallion design was filled with lively visual centre point of the exhibition. sailor waves his hat, with a fouled
patterns composed of hundreds of Three quilts caught my eye due to anchor and tar barrel to his left.
tiny pieced squares of wool fabric their particularly charming depictions The bottom panel showed a Royal
in a bold colour scheme of red, of human figures and wildlife. One Navy ship on a blue sea and below
yellow, blue, green, black and white, of these, a late eighteenth-century this is a horizontal panel with
the regimental colours of the 37th Prussian intarsia quilt, had rows embroidered foliage and flowers
Foot Regiment, creating a dazzling of figures top and bottom: soldiers including a Scottish thistle. In the
effect. In the centre square were including musketeers of a Prussian centre were two panels, showing the
two crossed flags, the regimental infantry regiment, wearing red, maker’s name, rank, the regiment’s
emblem, with crowns and Prince blue and white uniforms; Prussian colours and where the regiment was
stationed. These were surrounded appliquéd and embroidered raised- embroidered flowers. Surrounding
by three rectangular borders: two work flowers, so detailed that they this were sections composed of
with a lively pattern of small diamond are recognisable as pansies, daisies, pieced square tiles, each decorated
patches, and between these, a yellow briar roses, primulas, forget-me- with a different flowering plant,
border beautifully embroidered with knots, and thistles, the latter perhaps including strawberries, daisies, lily
flowing foliage, urns of flowers, hinting at the quilt’s probable Scottish of the valley, jasmine and primulas.
and two of the black ostrich feather origins. With careful examination, The deep magenta inner border
bonnets which were part of the I also spotted a few satin-stitched was appliquéd with golden fruiting
regimental uniform. The embroidery butterflies fluttering amongst the vines; the outer border was a green
was very skilfully executed and, after blossoms. fabric decorated with baskets and
his return to Scotland, Sgt. Macleod’s Polly’s quilt, an English intarsia cornucopias of flowers, acorn trees
quilt won a medal in the Glasgow coverlet designed for a four-poster with blackbirds, and embroidered
Industrial Exhibition of 1865–66, no bed, was also embellished with golden pheasants.
doubt in no small part due to the fine an abundance of appliquéd and A particularly elegant quilt was
stitching. embroidered flowers, worked on The Intellect and Valour of Great
Other quilts were astonishing due fabrics in a beautiful colour palette Britain attributed to Michael Zumpf, a
to the sensitivity of design, botanical - predominantly pinks, reds, greens, tailor, whose skill with a needle was
detail or skilful embroidery. A mid- and teal. In a circle at the centre abundantly clear. An outer border
nineteenth century military or tailor’s of the medallion design, was a comprised hand stitched, twining
patchwork quilt was adorned with cornucopia containing layered and tendrils from which sprouted leaves
Intarsia with soldiers, Prussia, 1760–80, 140 x 110 cm, wool, probably from A mid-Victorian regimental bed rug by Sgt. Malcolm Macleod made before 1865
uniforms, all hand-sewn, intarsia. Photo by The David Roche Foundation courtesy of in India, (active 1860–65), 242 x 160 cm. Wool, mostly uniform fabrics, inlaid, with
Annette Gero. Details below: Photos by Moira Simpson, courtesy of Annette Gero and embroidery, all hand-sewn and embroidered. Exhibited and awarded a medal in the
The David Roche Foundation. Glasgow Exhibition 1865–66. Photo by The David Roche Foundation courtesy of
Annette Gero. Details below: photos by Moira Simpson, courtesy of Annette Gero and
The David Roche Foundation.
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 31
EXHIBITIONS
A fine military or tailor’s patchwork with thistles, c.1850–60, possibly Scotland, 217 x 197 cm, scarlet Melton wool, uniform fabrics,
inlaid, hand appliquéd, embroidered. Photo by The David Roche Foundation courtesy of Annette Gero.
English intarsia for four poster bed (Polly’s quilt), 1825–30, England,
239 x 272 cm, wool, probably from uniforms, all hand-sewn, intarsia.
Photo by The David Roche Foundation courtesy of Annette Gero.
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 33
AUTHOR: Moira Simpson
EXHIBITIONS
Detail of The Intellect and Valour of Great Britain quilt, c.1870s, London. Sir William
Armstrong explains the construction of his cannon to a group including (l to r) General
Sir Hope Grant, General Sir Archdale Wilson, Sir William Armstrong, Sir Benjamin
Brodie (seated), Gen Sir John Inglis (seated), Field Marshal Lord Clyde (seated on right),
Standing on the right are: l to r: William Makepeace Thackeray, Robert Stephenson,
C.E., and Field Marshal Lord Gough. Photo by Moira Simpson, courtesy of Annette Gero
and The David Roche Foundation.
Moira Simpson
www.evocativearts.com.au
The New York Times reviewed the book as one of the ten best
art and design books of 2017. Copies are still available from Detail of The Intellect and Valour of Great Britain quilt, c.1870s, London.
Annette Gero at: www.annettegero.com Photo by Moira Simpson, courtesy of Annette Gero and The David Roche Foundation.
embellish
Be inspired by textile & fibre arts,
Evocative Arts Workshops
offered throughout the year
in the Adelaide area, South Australia
In issue 46 we take
inspiration from
“Canada”.
We have a wonderful
mix of profiles, projects
and techniques, plus
great feature articles!
Encaustic Collage: Wax, paper, Metallics in Fibre Art –
fibre – Moira Simpson Alysn Midgelow-Marsden
Introduction to Wet Felting – Felt Jewellery –
Moira Simpson Pam de Groot
Embellish is published in March, June, September Sculptural Felt –
Pam de Groot
See: www.evocativearts.com.au
for details and dates.
and December each year. Hanky Panky Nuno Felting – Images: clockwise from top, Moira Simpson,
Moira Simpson, Alysn Midgelow Marsden,
Nancy Ballesteros Pam de Groot
Subscribe via www.artwearpublications.com.au
AUTHOR: Jane Skeer
ARTIST PROFILE
Complexity Theory, 2018, 182 x 182 x 39 cm (each unit), discarded Artlink magazines, mass-produced IKEA bookshelves. Photographer: Grant Hancock.
CHANCE Australia
ENCOUNTERS
Passionate, with a hunger to participate in everything a creative life
has to offer, I explore the everyday and everyday people while observing
what is going on around me in this world. I turn up to work each day
creating a space for conversation and inviting in curiosity. I make art as
a necessity to find out what life is about. I make art for myself; if I am
happy with it then I will choose to share it.
live and work on Kaurna land. I our past histories. I am fascinated medium to explain this curiosity to
My artworks tend to grow in imprint of their passage and mimic particular material Skeer starts
complexity through the dynamic the essence and muted palette obsessively stockpiling, salvaging
of group participation, allowing of the Australian landscape. My the unwanted and befriending
for large-scale immersive art aim is to monumentalise them, unlikely allies with her singular
installations. Presently, I am retire them from their duties, to focus. This intense period is the
exploring methods and materials recognise their efforts. This work unseen labour that imbues Skeer’s
that narrate a more emotive highlights the vitality I see in them, work with a sense of storytelling”.
experience, projecting new energy rendering visible the mechanisms I work collaboratively with
into my art practice. For example, of trade, the importance of the familiar, ready-made objects that
I am constantly purchasing truck trucking industry, which define the I find during my daily activities.
rachet tie downs covered in dirt country’s economy. This ad hoc method of art making
and grease, loaded with history In an essay by Serena Wong for allows my practice to travel
which I seek from Australia-wide the Walkway Gallery, Bordertown, anywhere in the world and allows
sources through eBay, Gumtree Wong noted; “Jane Skeer inhabits participation by artists and non-
and Grays Online. With these, it a work as she makes it. Never on artists and people of all abilities.
is my intention to immerse the the outside looking in, Skeer is I thrive on creating work publicly:
viewer in a large-scale painting embedded in her work through I visualise my art practice as an
reminiscent of the work of German flashes of autobiographic detail, open book, and work interactively
artist, Katharina Grosse. uncanny intuition and the physical in its making. When the audience
Rachet tie downs are strong process of assembling material en- enters my workplace, they activate
and robust, industrially sewn to masse”. the space, changing the directions
secure their prized cargo, yet also “Frequently enthralled by chance the work might travel in. I enjoy
vulnerable, susceptible to the encounters with offcuts, surplus, watching audiences engage with
harsh elements. Embedded with over-production and excess-of, the my art practice. My artworks tend
red dirt and grease, worn down, seemingly mundane, Skeer goes to grow in complexity through the
exposing their histories, these tie to great lengths sourcing unusual dynamic of group participation,
downs evoke the endlessness of materials for her ever-expanding allowing for large-scale immersive
the open highway. They wear the installations. Once drawn to a art installations.
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 37
ARTIST PROFILE
On the Horizon, 2019, 300 x 120 cm, rachet tie downs sourced from the roadside on a recent trip along the Western Australian coastline. Photographer: Grant Hancock.
Bunbury, Albany, Whyalla, Port Augusta, Freeling, Adelaide, Millicent, Mount Gambier, Melbourne, Sydney, Alice Springs, 2019, 240 x 700 x 300 cm, used truck rachet
straps bought on Australian eBay, Gumtree & Gray’s Online, steel, timber, acrylic. Photographer Grant Hancock.
I developed a curiosity towards the essence of a place. My iPhone as a hub for freighting goods and
nature early in life, inquisitively has become the lens I see through, services throughout India. Sitting
interested in the way we move sketching my discoveries, evaluating on the windowsill in my Pepper
through and around landscapes, as the relationships between us and House Studio observing the Keralan
one does with sculpture and land our environment. trade, its harbour, and its daily
art. Land is one of our most precious On January 27th 2020, I left activities, I created an installation
resources which we inherit. We Adelaide and embarked upon a using 200 discarded blue cement
depend on it to survive and we utilise four-week artist exchange/residency bags titled Vessel.
natural resources to protect and in India on behalf of ACE Open and Day one in Fort Kochi I took a
regenerate it. I work, paying close the Kochi Biennale Foundation. photograph of five cement bags that
attention to the way we, as humans, This experience was a life changer. lay, seemingly abandoned on the
interact with this space, experience Intuitively, I knew I needed to footpath close to my studio. Later that
it, and respect the history of a place. experience India’s colour, customs, day, I returned to find them filled with
I explore the intersections between culture and their traditional way of the debris swept up on the footpath.
the landscape, culture, history, and life, to invigorate my art practice. The This became the first and most
human intervention. Every day is a Kerala region, specifically Fort Kochi important lesson in Kochi culture,
journey taking me closer to capturing where I was positioned, is renowned never pick up anything until one was
certain it was not a vessel to contain and its botanical siblings had on me. fears and insecurities in the process.
something else. As happens, so often I worked surrounding myself with I am interested in the way colour
in my art practice, the first things these yellow, netted, organic objects evokes emotions and operates
I observe become the curiosities I for a couple of weeks, and decided autonomously. The Steady Flow
am seeking. I later observed these I needed to share this experience displays the single colour effect,
cement bags filled with plants, in public spaces around Adelaide to touches on the organic, highlighting
bricks, stones, sand, rubbish, food, deliver some festival cheer during the ability of repetition, while
coconut husks and spices - vessels these sad times. Yellow never seems emphasizing the terrible problem
which contained Kerala’s daily habits; to disappoint, resting against the of plastic.
India’s way of transporting goods green grass of the parklands, the Art is everywhere, it simply needs
and services. Vessel was my way of interaction of colour and nature to be discovered and presented to the
celebrating India, and the materials certainly elevated the encounter public by an artist. I work, responding
that do the heavy work. of the spectator in both reality and to what is going on around me,
Later, searching my Adelaide printed format. honouring my own curiosity,
studio, I discovered the 2000 yellow As an artist, I don’t want to just extending awareness of certain
fruit bags someone had given me make art: my aim is to connect topics, whilst searching for beauty in
out of disgust for their very existence and brighten up someone’s day. the world we populate.
a few years earlier. In my hands, I The Steady Flow became a way to
was soon transported back to India interact with public space, delivering
reliving the elated, sensory effect art and culture to people during Jane Skeer
that the yellow kanikonna flower Covid-19 shutdowns, calming my https://www.janeskeer.com
Twine, 2019, 270 x 800 x 800 cm, oversupplied stock of polypropylene bailing twine heading for the rubbish Two photographs from the series The Steady
dump, steel, timber. Photographer: Grant Hancock. Jane Skeer with her artwork Vessel, 2020, dimensions Flow, 2020, 83 x 65 cm each print, giclée print. iPhone
variable, used cement plastic bags. Photographer: Vikas Ramdas, Fort Cochin. photograph by artist.
THREADS
EXHIBITIONS
THROUGH ART:
Australian Artist tapestries
The Swiss-born architect Le Corbusier famously described tapestries as ‘the mural
of the modern age’ with the advantage of being portable. That portability was
demonstrated in October 2019 when Bathurst Regional Art Gallery arranged for
eighteen works to be transported from around the country to the NSW Central
Tablelands city for the first major exhibition of tapestries by Australian artists.
John Olsen (artist designer) and Andrea May and Peter Churcher (weavers, Australian Tapestry Workshop), Light Playing with Evolution, 1989, 200 x 250 cm, tapestry:
cotton and wool. The University of Melbourne Art Collection. Commissioned by the Works of Art Committee of the University of Melbourne for the School of Zoology 1989
© Australian Tapestry Workshop. Photo by Jeremy Weihrauch.
T
hreads Through Art: Australian ‘Soon after World War II, Lurçat the Threads Through Art exhibition.
Tapestries was conceived as a gathered a group of French artists (See: https://cs.nga.gov.au/detail.
celebration of Australian art at the Aubusson Tapestry Workshop cfm?irn=42942).
through the tapestry medium, and [in Central France] to pursue a new Enthusiasm for the tapestry
loosely charted the collaboration of approach to the age-old textile, medium emerged in Australia
Australian artists with weavers from arguing that tapestries were the ideal through exposure to the touring
the 1960s to the present. It was also wall decoration to replace frescos.’ exhibitions Contemporary French
notable for being the first survey to Dr Herbert C. ‘Nugget’ Coombs, Tapestry (1956) and Aubusson
feature tapestries designed prior governor of the Reserve Bank of Tapestries (1966). The ground-
to the establishment in 1976 of the Australia from 1960-68, embraced breaking Contemporary French
Australian Tapestry Workshop. a similar ethos and in 1968 Tapestry, sponsored by L’Association
The French artist and weaver Jean commissioned Sydney modernist Française d’Action Artistique,
Lurçat (1892-1966) is credited by Margo Lewers (1908–78) to create a showcased the work of Cubists,
Sue Walker, former director of the painting that could be transformed Futurists, Picasso and Miró to
Australian Tapestry Workshop, with into a tapestry woven at Aubusson. Australians for the first time. Then
championing the tapestry medium The resulting Wide Penetration in 1966, the Aubusson weavers’
and the role it can play architecturally: (1968) was the earliest tapestry in Sydney agent, Lucien Dray, with the
William Robinson (artist designer), Andrea May, Hannah Rother, Tim Gresham and Grazyna Bleja (weavers, Australian Tapestry Workshop), Creation Landscape: Darkness
and light, 1991, 224.5 x 300.5 cm, tapestry: cotton and wool. Art Gallery of New South Wales Collection. Margaret Hannah Olley Art Trust 1997 © Australian Tapestry Workshop.
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 41
AUTHOR: Emma Collerton
_____
EXHIBITIONS
patronage of French ambassador visited Italy where he created a series practice in agricultural sustainability.
François Brière, organised for the of coloured pastels depicting various The yarn is dyed onsite by a specialist
Aubusson Tapestries exhibition to stages in St Francis’s life. In 1965, dyer who creates a palette of more
tour commercial galleries in Sydney, these were exhibited at Australian than 370 colours. The wool is grown
Melbourne and Adelaide. Initiated Galleries, Melbourne, where Anne using environmentally sustainable
to save the then-struggling town of Purves, the gallery’s director, and humane animal practices, and is
Aubusson, the exhibition featured photographed them and sent a set traceable through the supply chain
the works of high-profile European of high-quality transparencies to the back to the farms where it is grown.’
artists woven in tapestry. weavers in Portugal. Prior to the establishment of the
Viewing these exhibitions made Observed curator Robert Bell of Australian Tapestry Workshop, John
a lasting impression on emerging the National Gallery of Australia, Olsen had his tapestries woven in
artists John Olsen and John Coburn: which purchased The Gift of a Lamb Portugal and France. He noted, ‘I’ve
both immediately embraced the from the artist (see https://cs.nga. done nine tapestries altogether
medium, as did fellow artists gov.au/detail.cfm?irn=36907): ‘The [and] probably the best workshop in
Arthur Boyd and Sidney Nolan, spectacular craftsmanship and vivid the world is the Australian Tapestry
who collaborated with weavers at interpretation of Boyd’s imagery in Workshop. I’d love to go to Portugal,
renowned tapestry workshops in his Portalegre tapestries was an I’d love to go to France with designs,
France and Portugal. impetus for the establishment in but they are so good here I prefer to
A young Coburn had fallen in love Australia of a tapestry workshop work with them.’
with the medium when he visited where Australian artists could work Threads Through Art chose to
the Contemporary French Tapestry with local weavers.’ showcased Olsen’s Light Playing with
exhibition at the Art Gallery of New Since its inception in 1976, the Evolution, commissioned in August
South Wales in 1956, and a decade Australian Tapestry Workshop 1987 for the University of Melbourne’s
later, with the assistance of Aubusson (formerly the Victorian Tapestry zoology building and woven by the
agent Lucien Dray, he became the first Workshop) has collaborated with Australian Tapestry Workshop’s
Australian artist to have a tapestry numerous Australian artists, Andrea May and Peter Churcher.
woven in Aubusson. Coburn explained, transforming their artworks into University of Melbourne Gallery
‘I’d met touring tapestry workers thread and securing high-profile curator Frances Lindsay explained the
from the great houses at Aubusson, commissions such as Arthur choice of artist: ‘Olsen’s work contains
where they’ve woven tapestries for a Boyd’s Great Hall Tapestry (1988) at references to organic life and human
thousand years. When the weavers Parliament House, Canberra, and the endeavour within the framework of
ordered Australian wool for their four Roger Kemp tapestries created an abstracted landscape… [But] most
world-famous work, someone made between 1981 and 1991 for the importantly he is a major Australian
the connection and they offered me Great Hall at the National Gallery of artist who understands the medium of
the chance to design for them.’ Victoria, Melbourne. tapestry and can creatively collaborate
Arthur Boyd’s The Gift of a Lamb Australian Tapestry Workshop with the weavers to produce a unique
(1974), woven in Portalegre, Portugal, director Antonia Syme explained: work of art.’
and featured in Threads Through Art, ‘The workshop is one of Australia’s William Robinson also worked
evolved from a potential collaboration leading producers of public art closely with the workshop’s weavers
between Boyd and the British art and has produced more than 500 in the fabrication of Creation
historian Tom Boase, who proposed contemporary hand-woven tapestries Landscape: Darkness and light, the
that Boyd illustrate his biography of using the finest Australian wool centrepiece of Robinson’s five-panel
St Francis of Assisi. In 1964, Boyd sourced from suppliers who use best painting in the Art Gallery of Western
Australia collection. Subtle biblical portrayed in the tapestry medium”. and apple. Nell was in Paris when
references seep into the tapestry with He then spent some weeks painting a her proposed tapestry commission
‘Adam and Eve’ — Robinson and wife large and somewhat disturbing canvas was granted after the chairman
Shirley — swimming in a creek and that he thought would be impossible.’ of the Deutsche Bank in Australia
a carpet snake located on a nearby But the weavers rose to the challenge and New Zealand, Clive Smith, had
bank. As the title infers, darkness and and transformed the complex approached the Australian Tapestry
light are key elements, and the dark painting, with its diverse influences of Workshop seeking a tapestry for the
background was an important colour Jean Dubuffet, Jean-Michel Basquiat, newly built Norman Foster building in
aspect for Robinson. Weaver Andrea T.S. Eliot, Francis Bacon and urban Sydney. In preparing for her tapestry,
May recalled: ‘It was a challenge to graffiti, into the tapestry Family Trust. Nell studied collections of tapestries
create an equivalent darkness in wool In all, Threads Through Art featured and visited three major tapestry
without the obvious addition of black.’ fourteen tapestries woven at the workshops in Paris — the Gobelins,
The skill of the artisan weavers Australian Tapestry Workshop and Beauvais and Savonnerie — to gain an
was challenged to another level when designed by prominent Australian insight into the creation of a tapestry
the workshop initiated a commission artists, including Janet Laurence, and how painted images are translated
with Gareth Sansom, an artist Ginger Riley Munduwalawala, Nell, into the woven medium. She later
renowned for tackling provocative David Noonan, Arlene TextaQueen shadowed the Australian Tapestry
subjects. Former workshop director and John Wolseley. Workshop weavers for two weeks: ‘I
Sue Walker recalled in her 2007 book The title of Sydney artist Nell’s had a momentary foray at weaving and
Artists’ Tapestries from Australia tapestry Let Me Put My Love Into You loved it... The magic occurred for me
1976-2005 (The Beagle Press), ‘At first is the title of a song on the 1980 AC/ somewhere in that fluid and liminal
he just didn’t think it would work… DC album Back in Black, and her space between my intentions and the
“My painting is so grungy, so thick playful, edgy rock-and-roll tribute is weavers’ collective experience of all
and thin, scrapped and sprayed, that interwoven with biblical references to the possibilities available in the game
I didn’t think it could adequately be mortality, depicted through the snake of weft and warp.’
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AUTHOR: Emma Collerton
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ARTIST PROFILE
Australia
Mandy Gunn on
WEAVING AS ARTFORM
The 1970s and 1980s saw a blossoming of interest in the handmade: crafts
such as pottery and textiles regained popularity and universities and art schools
were offering courses both full and part time. So, in 1971, when Melbourne
University offered a weaving summer school, I enrolled. My first encounter
with warps and wefts, looms, shuttles, linen threads and the intricacies of
threading a loom, it was to change my whole focus of interest. I couldn’t get
hold of a loom quickly enough.
City Circle, 2000, 44 x 44 x 8 cm, Melbourne Met cards collaged onto cardboard
construction. Photo by the artist.
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 47
ARTIST PROFILE
Firesticks 2, 2018, approx. 200 x 215 x 215 cm, cut rubber inner tubes, cotton warp, steel poles. Photo by Angus Gunn.
Crescendo, music sheets on cardboard. Mandy Gunn at her loom. Photo by Ian Gunn.
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 49
AUTHOR: Mandy Gunn
one can use them to the best advantage. to length hundreds of bracken sticks which I then
Some major works emerged from this material: either wove on a loom or hand twined on site to create
burnt out inner tubes became works referring to ten metre lengths reminiscent of matchstick blinds. I
fire and the indigenous tradition of burning off to then twisted these into 3D spirals reminiscent of wave
prevent wildfire, known as firestick farming. My patterns or floated them out into the water where
Firesticks series was made from many thin, woven they appeared to be almost submerged under water.
strips up to several metres long, with the cut rubber Surge was installed in a sandy bay around the magical
strips partially inserted into the warp and the ends Lake Cootharaba at Boreen Point in the hinterland of
left hanging out to produce a sort of shag pile. The Noosa.
woven lengths were sewn around a wooden baton or Over many years I have taught weaving and other
steel tube and then leant against a wall or presented art forms. I taught at Melbourne Centre for Adult
as freestanding pieces, resembling a burnt forest. Education for twenty years, taking over from one of
Firesticks series 1 won the inaugural Wangaratta Textile our great weaving legends, Anne Greenwood, and at
Prize in 2009. A companion piece, Fireball, made from RMIT for ten years. I have also taught many textile
finger-knitted inner tubes wound into a large and workshops and classes including for a while, night
heavy ball, was also acquired by the gallery. Tamworth sessions at the Melbourne Tapestry Workshop. I
Regional Gallery, through their 2008 Textile Triennial have always encouraged students to look at different
acquired a large wall piece, Burnout completely possibilities, to experiment once they had knowledge
woven with the shag pile look. The second Firesticks of basics, to try things out and not be worried by
series was exhibited near the National Gallery of Art initial failures because I believe this way fosters true
Sculpture Garden on Lake Burley Griffin in Canberra creativity, individuality and originality.
as part of the 2018 Contour 556 public art biennial. Although I work with many media, including
All of these pieces carry with them a story and painting and printmaking, I have always felt that the
make reference to the place we live in and the way we constructional aspect of weaving with its grid form
live, in particular the amount of waste we produce. and separate elements coming together as a whole
While most of the previously mentioned pieces are has had a huge influence on the way I see and make
constructed with man-made waste, there is also things. At times I feel I need to weave, to let the
natural waste; dead bracken sticks, for example. repetitive actions take over while the mind wanders —
I have participated in a number of environmental almost a form of meditation!
sculpture projects, in particular several of the Floating
Land events run by Noosa Regional Gallery. The theme Mandy Gunn
for one of these was rising water levels and its effect Mandygunn.webs.com
on Pacific islands and coastlines. I collected and cut Instagram mandy.gunn
Pillars of Wisdom, 2020, 29 cm high x variable width and depth, cut and woven pages of Encyclopaedia Brittanica, ribbon. Photo by the artist.
FEATURE
T-Serai Exhibition
at Sharjah Museum
for Islamic Civilization
in the United Arab
Emirates, 2019,
donated surplus clothes
illustrating the ‘surplus
& scarcity’ concept. 53
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makeshift shops, small kitchen
gardens, children’s drawings, birds in
a cage, toys made from recycled food
FEATURE
THE SYRIAN
REFUGEE
SITUATION
• Today, more than 65 million people
worldwide have been forcefully displaced.
textile history, and contemporary Ansie van der Walt Artists: Staff and undergraduate students of
design inform the design of tapestries Azra Aksamija’s course Foundations in Arts,
https://thefabricthread.com/
Design, and Spatial Practices, MIT Department
inspired by ornaments from historical of Architecture, Spring 2019. Communication-
monuments and traditional textile T-Serai by Azra Aksamija and the MIT Future intensive component instructor: Cherie
motifs.’ Heritage Lab in collaboration with The Sharjah
Miot Abbanat. Teaching assistants: Jaya
Museum of Islamic Civilization. The exhibition
Exhibitions like this one in Sharjah, was displayed at the Sharjah Museum of
Eyzaguirre and Yaara Yacoby. Students:
and university projects like the one Zidane Abubakar, Lisbeth Acevedo Ogando,
Islamic Civilization, Sharjah, United Arab
Emirates, from 25 September to 7 December Erika Anderson, Alexander Boccon-Gibod,
at the Future Heritage Lab, serve the Landon Buckland, Jierui Fang, Alejandro
2019. https://www.futureheritagelab.com/
same purpose – to raise awareness Gonzalez-Placito, Alice Ho, Effie Jia, Seo Yeon
about refugees’ cultural and All photos provided by Sharjah Museum Kwak, Daniel Landez, Christopher Larry,
emotional needs. Authority unless otherwise stated. Yi Yang, Annie Zhang.
Subscribers get a free newsletter every issue, filled with exhibitions and calls for entries 55
SITUATION SVENJA
SITUATION
SVENJA
The Making Game becomes
the Waiting Game
Australia
Kelp Waves #3, 2020, 55 x 155 cm, moulded and painted leather on dyed, painted, and free-motion embroidered base. Photo by the artist.
Over the years, I’ve learned when to push, when not to push, and when to simply wait
with open mind. As the trickier pieces for my current exhibition project began to resolve,
and more and more works found their way onto frames, it’s as if a phase of this initial
process of creation and production is… not over, but more settled. I am spending
more time on painting, and I have commenced work on sculptural installation pieces
conceptualised during the time on King Island. A year down the track, and finally it feels
like the right time to forge ahead, as though I needed to do the interim works in order to
get to this place, and I’m at peace with that timing.
A
s mentioned previously, the took in nature over a year ago is that This takes me to my current colour
past year has been something the passing of time has loosened and material palette – it has been
of a creative struggle, as I up my visual interpretations beyond a drastic change from sparkling
shift from the comfort zone of making memory, which is a good thing. spandex, opalescent organza,
wearable art to textile art works, My former process began with the crystals and sequins all in a riot of
trying to continue to use rather body as a framework which, combined glittering, vibrant colours, to largely
than waste the many techniques with nature-based inspiration, gave me browns, greens, blacks and beige.
I have learned over the years. I a definitive starting point from which At least the silk and satin element
feel in part that it is a journey to I was free to combine the two into has remained, and sometimes I have
abstraction, as I look to working almost anything I possibly could. Now allowed myself a watered-down
away from representation towards I feel more constrained by the need glimmer of metallic paint…
concepts, textures, and lines. If you to have a genuine sense of purpose in Hand stitching has always been
had told me in the not-too-distant putting elements together. I suppose present as a finishing step in my
past that I would be looking towards there’s more narrative in this form of work, with the afore-mentioned
abstraction, I would have reeled, but working – more of a sense of trying to sequins and beads, but is now
when I think about it – most of my create an understandable meaning. I becoming part of the language of
wearable art works were concepts feel as though I have more of a voice, mark-making, as I learn to draw with
abstracted to accommodate the body therefore I am more conscious of what fibre and thread.
– so perhaps it’s not such a stretch. I am trying to say. There’s certainly no Returning to the start of this
Something I’ve noticed in regards to popping on some beads and sequins article and the effect of framing my
this and the many reference photos I because they look magnificent. current works – it is amazing the
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AUTHOR: Svenja
SITUATION SVENJA
_____
Svenja
https://studiosvenja.wixsite.com/
mysite
https://www.facebook.com/
Mossy Rocks #1 (detail), 2020. 42 x 60 cm, corduroy on botanically dyed silk, free-motion embroidery, beading. StudioSvenja/
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BOOK and
Village, Country, City, Nation
World. In doing so, she
BOOKS
echoes Austen’s identity-led
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Feminist Subjectivities artists by these still-lingering prejudices.
Feminist insights are key to unravelling these
in Fiber Art and Craft: perspectives, and though Lacan, Freud, the
phallic and other patriarchal systems of
Shadows of Affect
BOOKS
positing craft in relation to biases - the lows between central chapters. Though limited,
and highs – prevalent in Westernised art these images are critical to grounding the text (hardback),
history. Instead, Corso Esquivel discusses in real-world examples, enabling insight into $77.99 (paperback)
fibre art and craft, using case studies from the artwork details Corso Esquivel draws out. This or $63.89 (eBook)
enduring practices of eight established women book is written for theoreticians and often from
artists from United States and Latin America, a viewer’s or non-maker’s perspective, meaning _____
to scrutinise the affective power of textiles. that overall, the practitioner’s perspective and
This argument builds from the work of seminal the tangible materiality of textiles are largely
philosophers Gilles Deleuze and Felix Guattari, omitted from the conversation. At times Corso
WHILE
and emphasises pleasurable and positive Esquivel quotes the artists whose work he is PRACTITIONERS
readings of textile art, which Corso Esquivel citing, but overwhelmingly turns to others - to KNOW BODILY
claims provides an alternative way to extend curators, reviewers, theorists, historians and THAT MAKING
the social aspects of feminist art. Published philosophers - to interpret and comment on WITH THREAD,
under the banner of the Routledge series their works of art, installation and materiality.
Research in Gender and Art, this book unfolds This regular omission of the artist’s voice
CLOTH, AND
over five chapters delving into feminist and does not fully embrace the insights enabled OTHER TEXTILES
affective textile qualities, including shadows by practice, insight that could be unpacked, IS A MEANING-
and silhouettes, repetitiveness, creative understood and applied culturally. As such, FILLED AND FELT
intuition, the politics of identity (particularly this approach raises questions around
highlighting the mutability of identities), as how this conversation, going back to Corso
PRACTICE, THIS
well as the spatial and networked possibilities Esquivel’s claims, can extend the affective and KNOWLEDGE
of fibre sculpture. In this way, Corso Esquivel social aspects of feminist art, when for many HAS BEEN
contributes his voice to a larger collective of practitioners the potential of textiles lies in the UNDER-
scholars in craft, textiles and fibre who are rhythms, paces, touch, and haptic knowledge SCRUTINISED
updating how these modes of making are associated with handling these materials,
written about. known only through practice itself.
(AND EVEN
The scholarly nature of this book aims Even if the convolutions of this theory- DENIGRATED),
it toward postgraduate researchers and rich text are outside of a practitioner’s joy ALONGSIDE
academics, particularly those focussed and developed intelligence with textiles, this OTHER CRAFT
upon entangling textiles with pre-existing book remains heartening in several ways.
QUALITIES
historical and theoretical knots, through new First of all, that within the art historical
perspectives. Corso Esquivel immerses his lineage of textile and craft writing, books SINCE LATE
discussion of the practices of artists Ruth such as this are readdressing the gap around MODERNISM.
Asawa, Sheila Pepe, Judith Scott, Claire taking crafted making seriously. The extent _____
Falkenstein, Sonia Gomes, Shinique Smith, of Corso Esquivel’s argument pays homage
Gego and Janet Echelman, within deep to the important work of connection being
theoretical convolutions engaging with theories undertaken by artists, many of whom have
by Bracha Ettinger, Elizabeth Grosz, Henri been working for decades. Secondly, it
Bergson, Brian Massumi, to name just a few. celebrates significant work by female artists.
His embrace of theory brings critical and The author notes, of late, overdue recognition
theoretical depth, until recently missing from is being directed toward artists such as Asawa,
craft scholarship, to areas of focus such as whose work has long been held in collections
repetition and difference. While practitioners but is now proudly hung by galleries. This
know bodily that making with thread, cloth, institutional turn toward textiles and fibre in
and other textiles is a meaning-filled and felt art and craft, is indicative of the shift toward
practice, this knowledge has been under- deeper consideration of such practices. This
scrutinised (and even denigrated), alongside book itself is indicative of this textile turn,
other craft qualities since late Modernism. while also contributing to it.
Peppered throughout the book are reminders of
the damage inflicted upon women and feminist Sera Waters
can do
new pieces produced in response to exhibits in the Max
Ernst Museum.
The book is lavishly illustrated. The bulk of it—
from pages 28 to 169—comprises a catalogue of the
BOOKS
exhibited works. One of the book’s strengths—and
most significant differences from most art books—is
the extensive photographic documentation of each
work. A series of photographs of each sculpture and
installation includes views from multiple angles and
closeups, providing detail of materials and structure. • Mail order
Photographs also show the context in which the
artworks were displayed in the galleries alongside
• Shop online
works by other artists, so the reader is able to • Fast Shipping
appreciate the visual and / or conceptual links between
works by Vasconcelos and those of artists, such as
Max Ernst and other Dada and Surrealist artists candobooks.com.au
represented in the Museum’s collections.
Two essays follow, in which each author examines
Vasconcelos’s her work from a different perspective.
In Material Change, Friederike Vosskamp examines
the artist’s use of the medium of textiles and “its
ee
Frcatalogue
associated techniques (which are usually not assigned
to the classic canon of artistic materials, but rather Contact us for
to the fields of craftsmanship and applied arts) and a free catalogue.
transforms them into high art”.
In Passerelle, Patrick Blümel looks at “Creative
destruction in the work of Joana Vasconcelos”, through 39 Clifford Street, Huntingdale VIC 3166
examination of some of her kinetic sculptures and Tel: 1300 308 261
strategies she has used to actively engage viewers. Email: info@candobooks.com.au
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the back. I promise, no one will know! Okay, the sheep
ALL THAT will probably know, but I doubt he’ll tell anyone.
“But Molli,” I already hear you saying, “I’ll be here for
SPARKLES the next thirty-seven years finishing all of these WIPs”.
I feel ya, I really do. That’s why I’m gonna let you in on
Molli Sparkles the next little secret to finishing WIPs: don’t finish them.
Go on, clutch those pearls! Now, how am I gonna try and
WIP It Good tell you to finish all your projects by not finishing them.
How’s that work? It’s as simple as those three words:
don’t finish them.
I can almost guarantee that you set about on a new
f there was ever a time to be weighed down with project because you wanted to play with textiles. It
Molli Sparkles
mollisparkles.com
Molli Sparkles, 2020, altering the design of a WIP and paper-pieced WIP. instagram: molli_sparkles
New Zealand born textile artist Carole Douglas, will take you
into the heart of South Pacific arts in galleries, museums,
private collections, studios and markets. During a journey that
explores Aotearoa’s cultural diversity you will meet traditional
and contemporary artists who work across a range of mediums
and enjoy cultural events while enjoying the tranquil beauty of
Aotearoa. And you don’t have to be an artist to appreciate new
ideas in our special ‘hands on’ demonstrations and workshops.
Carole’s extensive background as a teacher, tutor and advisor in
New Zealand will offer special insights into a rich material culture.
Itinerary: Auckland, Wellington, Nelson
by bus, train and ferry with stops along the way.
Expressions of Interest taken now.
https://globaltextilehub.com
JULIE
BRENNAN
SEE ARTICLE,
PAGE 12
Metamorphosis I - Generation: Regeneration,
2020, 122 x 66 x 6 cm, wool, silk, synthetic velvet.
Photo by Stephanie Simko.