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world of textiles

Europe
References Special Issue www.monforts.com
Competence in
Technical Textiles AHEAD OF PROGRESS

Our Product Range Suitable for


䡲 Stretching Ranges 䡲 Glas Fibre Fabrics
䡲 Flow Through Dryers 䡲 Light Protection
䡲 Belt Dryers 䡲 Tarpaulins
䡲 High Temperature Stenters 䡲 Billboards
䡲 Vertical Dryers 䡲 Artificial Leather
䡲 Finishing Ranges 䡲 Floor Coverings
䡲 Universal Dryers 䡲 Artificial Grass
䡲 TwinTherm Dryers 䡲 Nonwovens
䡲 Thermobonding Ranges 䡲 Spacers
䡲 Coating Lines 䡲 Membranes

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG


Germany | A member of CHTC Fong’s Group
www.monforts.com
Retaining a
lead in Europe
In this special publication for Of this €181 billion value, 33%
ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, we are is achieved by clothing, 17% by
celebrating the achievements of conventional trading in fabrics,
Monforts customers here in our 15% by home textiles and 17%
European markets. by industrial and technical
In attempting to convey the textiles.
importance of the European All these market segments are
textiles and clothing industry to its served by Monforts products,
overall economy, Lutz Walter, and at ITMA 2019 you’ll find
director of innovation and skills at innovations built on Industry 4.0
Euratex – the European Textile possibilities and our long history
and Apparel Council – notes that of accumulated expertise across
the list price of a new Airbus all clusters of the textile chain.
A350-900 wide-body jet airliner is Virtual and remote control of
around €275 million. our plant technologies, including
This means that EU exports of digital twinning and complete
textiles and clothing outside the automation, are just a few of the
block alone are the annual concepts you can find out about
equivalent of purchasing over 350 for our advanced textile finishing
of these latest Airbus planes, so and coating systems, by visiting A. Monforts Textilmaschinen
there is no need to be modest us at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, in GmbH & Co. KG
about the achievements of our Hall 2, at stand D101. Postfach 10 17 01
customers. And it’s only the start of what D-41017 Mönchengladbach
Euratex puts the overall annual we intend to achieve in the next Blumenberger Straße 143-145
value of EU textiles and clothing at years for the continued success D-41061 Mönchengladbach
€181 billion, without including the of our valued customers in Telefon: +49 - (0) - 21 61-401-0
Telefax: +49 - (0) - 21 61-401-498
contribution of key countries such Europe – and globally.
Internet: www.monforts.de
as Switzerland and Turkey. The eMail: info@monforts.de
industry has certainly rallied since
the recession of 2009, when it hit a Stefan Flöth
low of €150 billion, but at the same Managing Director
time, has become more diversified
over the years since then.
PUBLISHED BY MONFORTS
MARKETING GROUP

Monforts customers featured in this issue: Cover : The Monforts “Digital Twin” with
Arta, ATB, Bethge, Boyahanesi, BWF, Hugotag, GTA, Mariani, Smart Services and Smart Controls for
the highest productivity and availability.
Riopele, Schoeller, Tapetex, Tinfer, Van Clewe, Vaz da Costa.

World of Textiles | Europe | 3


www.monforts.com

IOT Industry 4.0


Innovations are here
Monforts technology is providing the full flexibility in coating and
finishing that advanced European textile manufacturers now
need to successfully negotiate the diverse markets they serve,
writes the company’s Head of Technical Textiles, Jürgen Hanel.
The instant connectivity and easy including ‘digital twin’ capability All specifications relating to
distribution of know-how is for all of its machine systems. machine performance and the
changing the face of industrial By exploiting the latest production process can be
manufacturing, making the advanced sensor technology, mapped, to enable vastly
operation of complex machinery 100% comprehensive technical simplified and targeted analysis
much simpler and cutting down machine data is now virtually for controlled planning and
the required training periods, mapped in the cloud in real production. Insights harnessed
while at the same time, reducing time. from such analysis can be
the chance of human error. This digital mirror can be used to optimise the actual
At ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, easily consulted using the new production process.
Monforts will demonstrate a range Monforts Smart Support and At the same time, potential
of new advances made possible Smart Check apps for an instan- sources of error can be
by Industry 4.0 techniques, taneous status overview. anticipated and eliminated,

‘Digital Twinning’ is the latest Industry 4.0 concept from Monforts.

4 | World of Textiles | Europe |


TECHNICAL TEXTILES
enabling improved machine
availability while considerably
minimising downtime.

Virtual monitoring
On request, Monforts can also
virtually monitor machine
performance and pro-actively
alert customers to the need for
preventative action. In such
cases, however, data is only ever
called from the cloud by
Monforts when customers have
given their full consent, in the
interests of data security.
Data from Smart Check,
for example, can even be used to A modern coating range with an integrated
Monforts texCoat unit installed in Germany.
analyse a system’s energy
requirements, allowing machine
operation to be optimised by systems and Eco Applicator, These very different materials,
tailoring production runs to texCoat and Allround coating however, have one thing in
the peaks and troughs of units. common – they all require expert
electricity costs. coating and finishing for
The Monforts digital twin Coating advances maximum efficiency and the
system and apps, along with our Since we acquired the coating technology to allow for ultimate
Qualitex control system, are being technology that our texCoat and flexibility and the ability to switch
made available for all of our Allround systems are based on in quickly from one fabric formula to
machine ranges going forward, 2015, Monforts has also made a the next, without compromising
including Montex stenters, lot of refinements resulting in on the economical use of energy
Thermex and E-Control higher coating accuracy and the or raw materials.
continuous dyeing ranges, resulting quality of the treated
Monfortex and Toptex shrinking fabrics, especially for manufac- Modules
turers of technical textiles. The introduction of the latest
Technical textiles are extremely Monforts multi-functional coating
diverse in their end-use heads for the company’s
applications and manufacturers industrial texCoat and Allround
can be called upon to quickly coating units offer an unprece-
produce a succession of dented range of options, with
materials with widely differing modules available for:
properties and performance • Screen printing.
applications – often within a • Magnetic roller coating.
single shift. • Knife coating (two versions
For customers of Monforts, for differing applications).
these range from substrates for Monforts is also now offering the
digitally-printed soft signage to coating roller for the texCoat and
carbon fabrics for today’s high- Allround coating units as an
performance composites, and optional carbon fibre version, in
from filter media which must order to meet even the highest
perform in extreme temperatures level of coating accuracy that is
to flame retardant barrier fabrics. being demanded by the most
Then there are the heavy duty exacting customers today.
membranes which are employed The carbon rollers provide the
in the collection and storage of extreme stiffness necessary to
methane in biogas plants, as well deal with the winding tension
as materials equipped with required in the processing of
sensors and electrical conductors materials such as prepregs for
which are now used as base composites and other
liners in DSC solar cells, to name heavyweight fabrics, but at the
just a few examples. same time, a significant

World of Textiles | Europe | 5


www.monforts.com

improvement in coating accuracy manufacturing from a single Organic solvents


is achieved, even for very source here in Europe. There has been a wariness about
lightweight flexible materials. In handling organic solvents, but in
addition, the surfaces of the Quick changes the end, they’re not as difficult to
rollers are protected against both On the Allround, the modular coat on textile substrates as they
abrasion and damage from coating heads can be quickly and are on plastic films where they’re
aggressive chemicals by a special easily changed via a specially- already widely used, and they
ceramic coating. A further benefit designed undercarriage from offer a lot of possibilities for
is that the rollers are much easier the side of the unit, allowing companies to explore and
to clean. it to be readily adapted for develop entirely new products –
Nowadays we are the only different applications. especially in fields such as
manufacturer which can offer The Montex Allround consists of medical and filtration.
completely integrated coating a load cell, a spreading unit and a Nevertheless, they do require a
lines from a single source and the pulling device along with the highly-controlled and contained
coating machine is tailored to the selected coating head. It allows for environment, and this was a key
subsequent Monforts drying the tension-free coating of the consideration when constructing
technology – with all the benefits substrate along a greatly-reduced the technical textiles line that is
resulting from a fully integrated web path and a very short period available for trials at the Advanced
plc control. of ‘open’ coating prior to it Technology Centre (ATC) at our
Our system has the shortest entering the dryer, to ensure headquarters in
fabric path from the coating unit significantly less chance of Mönchengladbach, Germany.
into the stenter and we have all contamination. The shortest This incorporates a Montex four-
variations of coating application possible distance between the chamber, horizontal chain stenter
systems too – and all of these coating head and the stenter and is fitted with an explosion-
options are available in wider infeed ensures the highest quality proof coating application
widths, with the engineering and coating results. chamber.
Every single component within
the chamber has to meet the
standards of the European Union’s
ATEX directives for working in an
explosive atmosphere. A range of
sensors linked to alarms operate at
various levels within the chamber
to ensure the specified lower
explosion limit (LOL) is never
exceeded and the ventilation
adapts accordingly.
Special features on the finishing
line relate to a further advanced
function – the ability to treat
materials not only at temperatures
of up to 320°C, but also to be able
to treat the top and bottom faces of
certain materials at different
temperatures within a single pass
through the machine.
To achieve this, the first two
chambers of the stenter are fitted
with special, heavy duty TwinAir
ventilation motors and separate
burners for individual top/bottom
temperature. A temperature differ-
ential of up to 60°C can be
achieved between the upper and
lower nozzles within the chamber.
There are many applications
The latest Qualitex control system where employing two separate
makes the operation of Monforts temperature treatments is
machines much simpler.
beneficial, such as floorcoverings –

6 | World of Textiles | Europe |


TECHNICAL TEXTILES
The unit itself does not actually
save the energy, but by applying
only the precise amount of
functional finish, ensures the
subsequent drying time is shorter
– in some cases dramatically so.
Some Monforts customers have
reported success stories of cycles
which previously took an average
around 160 minutes being
reduced to just 40 minutes.
Obviously, if you’re reducing the
full processing time to a quarter of
what it was, it has a significant
impact on the electricity, steam
and gas that is being used.
While being widely market-
proven on woven and denim
fabrics, major knitting
manufacturers are now also
reaping the benefits the
Eco Applicator provides.
Knitted fabrics must never be
stretched and need to be treated
in a relaxed state. This is why, for
The Web-UI app enables the example, the Montex stenter
process monitoring of machine dryer with vertical chain return
parameters on handheld devices. incorporates a TwinAir nozzle
system that ensures the relaxed
where the textile face fabric is as woven or 3D knits for high fabric is kept at a suitable height
treated at one temperature and temperature filter media. in between the upper and lower
the rubber backing at another – as nozzle system, allowing for the
well as PVC flooring employing Eco Applicator fabric’s ‘bowing’, since it can’t
chemical foams or for materials For conventional woven and be stretched.
like black-out roller blinds with knitted fabrics, the Monforts Eco Similarly, the Eco Applicator
heavy backings. Applicator as an alternative to the for knits is fitted with an advanced
At the same time, in the traditional on-wet padder has guidance system specially-
pharmaceutical industry there is a been highly successful since its adapted to the needs of delicate
wide range of different introduction in 2011, both treatments and eliminating any
applications for organic solvents integrated into new finishing lines possible ‘curling’ of the fabric
such as anti-septic treatments and retro-fitted to existing ones. edges prior to entering the
which have to be treated very In many textile mills globally, the stenter.
carefully and applied at very cost of running integrated Compared with a padder
specific temperatures in order not manufacturing lines – especially system, where the initial moisture
to destroy their efficacy.” those for fabric finishing that can content of the fabric entering the
Other materials, such as PTFE- involve numerous sequences of stenter is 60%, with the Eco
coated filter materials are also heating and subsequent drying – Applicator it is reduced to 40%
applied and then cured at is now eclipsing the cost of and the system also has the
separate temperatures. paying people to operate them. shortest fabric path from the
The ability of the Eco Applicator coating unit into the stenter.
Stretching to significantly reduce energy The Eco Applicator’s versatility
Another key feature of the costs is the key reason for its also allows mills to apply finishes
technical textiles line at our ATC is rapid acceptance on the market. to just one side of the fabric, or
the special stretching device The soft coating unit in many both, and even to apply separate
which is capable of pulling ten cases eliminates the need for a finishes to each side, or to
tons in length and ten tons in padder, instead employing trough specific areas of a fabric, for
width – a huge amount per square and roller techniques to apply the endless possibilities, whether
metre of fabric and necessary in required amount of liquid/coating treating wovens, denim or
the production of materials such to the fabric. delicate knits. ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 7


www.monforts.com

Absolute print
quality guaranteed
Having installed its first Monforts Montex stenter just
two years ago, during 2019 Germany’s GtA has installed
two more – as it runs 24 hours a day to meet unprece-
dented demand from the digital printing market.

A new standard in pure white, with a 3.6 metre wide, seven- With two production plants in
100% clean and fault-free textile chamber Monforts Montex Germany and headquartered at
substrates has been demanded in stenter, purpose-built at Montex Gross-Zimmern, close to Frankfurt,
recent years by the rapid growth GmbH in Austria. Georg and Otto Friedrich has a
in digitally-printed banners and Building on the success of this monthly production of more than
hoardings – often referred to as installation, the company has this 450 tons of warp knits – the
‘soft signage’. year installed two more Montex equivalent of around six million
lines – both with an expanded metres – for a range of end-use
Purpose built working width of 5.6 metres – a applications, including garments,
In response to this demand, GtA six-chamber unit for further automotive interiors and technical
(Gesellschaft für textile washing processes and a five- textiles, in addition to digital
Ausrüstung) formed in 2016 chamber line for coating. printing substrates.
and erected a purpose-built GtA is run by a seasoned team It is for digital printing, however,
plant on a greenfield site in of textile professionals led by in addition to certain interior
Neresheim, Germany. Managing Director Andreas Niess, fabrics, which are washed and
The plant was first equipped with the backing of Georg and treated at the Neresheim plant,
with a fully-automated 72 metre Otto Friedrich – one of the largest that GtA was established.
long installation comprising a manufacturers of warp knitted “I have worked with other
washing machine integrated textiles in Europe. stenter manufacturers in the past,

GtA managing director


Andrew Niess (left), and
production and quality
control manager Zeki Yagizi.

8 | World of Textiles | Europe |


GtA
but we opted for Monforts
technology and the company’s
excellent service we have
received,” says Andreas Niess.
Zeki Yagiz, Production and
Quality Control Manager agrees.
“We are fully in control of all
production and quality parameters
with these lines,” he says.
The substrates of choice for
digital printing are 100% polyester
warp knits which have extremely
smooth surfaces. This is
becoming increasingly critical due
to the general move away from
PVC coatings which were the
standard in the past.
In addition, they are resilient and The first 72 metre long installation comprising a
washing machine integrated with a 3.6 metre wide,
allow excellent take-up of inks, seven-chamber Monforts Montex stenter at GtA.
and vibrant colours and clear and
precise images to be achieved
with digital printing techniques.
The knitted construction also has
the advantage of elasticity, which
is a plus in terms of flexibility
for installers.
The raw fabrics being finished
and coated are supplied by Georg
and Otto Friedrich to GtA in
weights of 50-350gsm, in rolls of
up to 600 kg or 1,800 metres.
Depending on the fabric weight,
GtA is running the initial stenter at
speeds of between 20-50 metres
an hour at an average
temperature of 200ºC.

Quality Inspection
The new Monforts Montex coating line installed
The first entire finishing line is and awaiting commissioning earlier in 2019.
controlled by an EVA quality
inspection and control system In addition, GtA has purpose- Otto Friedrich and its many
which analyses every square designed the automatic chemical distributors and partners ready to
metre of fabric to ensure mixing and dosing system that be printed.
completely uniform and blemish- feeds to the padder for the seven The finished rolls are automat-
free production. key treatments that are carried out ically glued with RFID labels and
Another distinctive feature of on the fabrics through the stenter. embedded in to the company’s
the line is the proprietary addition “Here too, we have an extraor- own system.
to the Monforts air-to-air heat dinary precise quality control and GtA started production in
recovery system which is now usability,” explains Andreas February 2016 and for the
standard with Montex stenters. Niess. “Our daily philosophy is first five months ran a single
The first GtA line is also zero mistakes enforced eight-hour shift. In July 2016 this
configured for air-to-water heating throughout the company.” was increased to two eight-hour
to save considerable energy in Also fully automatic, are the roll shifts daily and since January
washing operations. inspection tables after the winder 2017, the company has been
The complete demand for hot and a robotised cutting and operating a three-shift system
water is generated by the heat packaging system which converts 24 hours a day.
exchanger which also ensures the master rolls down to 75,100, Now it will have greatly
surplus water for heating the 200 or 300 metre packages to be expanded capacity, such is the
building and the roof. despatched back to Georg and demand for its fabrics. ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 9


www.monforts.com

ATB holds some 10,000 fabric samples in


stock, and its library is constantly growing.

Ten thousand samples


for 52 seasons…
As the specialist in the supply of finished fabrics for
Europe’s leading fast fashion retailers, Portugal’s ATB
knows it can completely rely on its Monforts technology.

Not so long ago there were just One company that was quick with the rise of fast fashion.
two fashion seasons per year, but to recognise and respond to the These customers are, says
with the advent of ‘just in time’ emergence of fast fashion is ATB company founder Mário Mano,
manufacturing and the optimi- – Acabamentos Têxteis de extremely demanding in terms of
sation of supply chains, the Barcelos – established in 1985 in quick turnaround.
timescale in the latest designs Barcelos in northern Portugal. “The deadline is always
moving from the catwalks to the The company is dyeing and yesterday,” he jokes, “but
high street stores has been finishing between 36-40 tons of the key to staying successful
drastically shortened. Internet fabric on a daily basis for key is in new technology investment
retailing has only accelerated customers including Benetton, and at the same time new
expectations and with the advent Esprit, Mango, and also Inditex – fabric developments.”
of digitisation, the era of 52 the textile logistics chain behind At the time of WOET’s visit, the
micro-seasons per year is very the hugely successful Zara company was keeping busy with a
much upon us. brand which is synonymous huge €1.5 million order from

10 | World of Textiles | Europe |


ATB
Inditex for a total of around 600 In addition, the ATB plant is “Our customers will ask for
tons of processed knitwear. ATB is equipped with three Monforts initial fabric samples and then
one of the few companies with Dynair relaxation dryers, with the very quickly need five metres of
the capacity to deal with such an latest being installed in a new the fabric for prototyping, so we
order, which in any case, is pretty building which is also presently have to be very organised in this
unique these days. used for warehousing but will respect,” says Mario’s son
eventually be used for additional Ricardo, who now works with his
Quick turnaround manufacturing lines. father managing the plant. “We
“Orders are usually for smaller The ATB finishing plant is also do a lot of shopping to equip
quantities where the turnaround operating over three shifts, for 24 our showroom, in order to
times can be as little as a week hours a day, and often at investigate how our fabrics turn
from the start of the knitting weekends too, Mr Mano says. out in finished garments, and to
order to final delivery of the let our visiting customers know
fully-finished fabrics, depending Samples and prototypes that we are anticipating all of their
on the quantity of course,” ATB also holds some 10,000 fabric needs – with the help, of course,
Mr Mano says. “We’ve even samples in stock, and its library is of our leading technology
received orders on a Thursday constantly growing. suppliers like Monforts.” ●
afternoon and had them with the
customer by the following “The Monforts machines are known for
their efficiency and the fabric quality that
Monday morning.” can be achieved,” says Mário Mano.
Knitting is carried out at ATB’s
sister company Etevimol, also in
Barcelos, with 87 employees
running some 160 knitting
machines supplied by the leading
European manufacturers.
The ATB dyeing and finishing
plant meanwhile has 187
employees and investment in the
latest technology is ongoing. In
addition to the knitted fabrics from
Etevimol, it also finishes woven
fabrics on a commission basis.
The company installed its first
Monforts Montex stenter frame in
1990 and has subsequently
ordered four more over the years.
All are 2.4 metres wide and use
heat recovery units for increased
energy efficiency and also the
latest control equipment, to grant
the highest possible process
quality/reproducibility.

Mário and Ricardo Mano.

The Monforts Montex stenters at ATB are


all 2.4 metres wide and use the latest
control equipment to grant the highest
possible process quality/reproducibility.

World of Textiles | Europe | 11


www.monforts.com

Weathering the storm


Three new Monforts finishing ranges were installed in
record time for a Swiss mill to mark its 185th anniversary.

Switzerland’s long hot summer of Nestled in the foothills above worth of damage, with the Bethge
2017 – the hottest for over a Zofingen, the Bethge plant was in plant taking the brunt of it.
century, with temperatures the direct line of a 1.6-metre-high
soaring as high as 34°C wave which thundered down onto Crisis meeting
throughout May and June – was the town when a dam above it The following week a crisis
violently interrupted in the first finally burst its banks. meeting was held by the directors
weekend of July when heavy “It was unbelievable in its of the family-owned company and
storms finally broke. ferocity,” said Mr Katzenstein. “It it became clear that its finishing
Particularly badly affected was crashed right through the steel lines – including the existing
the town of Zofingen in the doors of the plant and completely Monforts stenter and shrinkage
canton of Aargau, where Bethge engulfed our machines. Almost range – would have to be
AG Textilveredlung has operated everything was destroyed.” completely replaced.
as a commission fabric finisher “It really looked like the business
since 1834. Chaos was finished unless we could
More than 450 rescue workers resume operations in a very
Hail were mobilised to deal with the limited amount of time,” Mr
“It started with the hail,” recalls chaos in Zofingen, with the Katzenstein said. “For many years
the company’s plant manager electricity down, the railway we have specialised in the
Frank Katzenstein, “the most station underwater and the finishing of woven textiles for third
fierce hail storm I’ve ever seen, motorway around the town party brands and distributors,
with stones as long as four closed in both directions for primarily based on cotton and
centimetres. This was enough to many hours. Miraculously, linen, as well as some polyester
close all of the local roads and although a number of people and polyamide. These are
then the rain started and just were taken to hospital, nobody destined for the home and hotel
didn’t stop – and the flooding and was killed, but the freak storm tableware and bedding markets in
landslides began.” had caused millions of francs Switzerland, Austria and Germany.

One of the two Montex stenters installed at


the Bethge plant is equipped with the latest
Monforts texCoat system, as an extension of
Bethge services to its customers.

12 | World of Textiles | Europe |


BETHGE

Bethge’s new Monfortex compressive shrinkage range has a


larger shrink cylinder for enhanced shrinkage values in fabrics.
Bethge’s plant manager
Frank Katzenstein.

“Hospital linen is another key


end-use sector for our fabrics, and
as one of the few remaining textile
finishing operations in Switzerland
– where both costs and environ-
mental standards are extremely
high – our just-in-time delivery
and quality guarantees have been
crucial.
“Thankfully, Thomas Päffgen,
Monforts’ area sales manager, and
the company’s manufacturing and
installation teams, were able to
pull out all the stops for us.”
Bethge opted to order two new
energy-saving six-chamber
Montex stenters, as well as a
Monfortex compressive shrinkage Intuitive automation and surveillance
range which is characterised by a of the machines is via the Monforts
Qualitex control system.
larger shrink cylinder allowing for
longer processing paths to achieve tablets, making navigation drying technology for maximum
enhanced shrinkage values. extremely easy and cutting down benefits. Monforts offers multi-
the time required for becoming functional coating heads for its
Record time familiar with the system. texCoat units, with modules that
The first stenter was manufactured Operation is via touchscreen and can be integrated into new lines
at the Montex plant in Austria and wheel-effect selection and the or retrofitted into existing ones.
was delivered, installed and dashboard can be individually In addition to its main markets,
commissioned in a record time of configured to meet the exact Bethge also manufactures certain
less than four months. needs of an operator’s tasks. technical textiles, as well as
“We were able to salvage our Damast fabrics and voiles
existing air cleaning system and texCoat destined for Africa’s apparel
after the first of the new stenters The second Montex stenter that markets. The company is now
was up and running we were able has been installed at the Zofingen back to full production, finishing
to resume operations and build up plant is equipped with the latest some three million metres of
back to where we were, month by Monforts texCoat system, as an fabric annually.
month,” Mr Katzenstein said. extension of Bethge services to its “Ongoing service from Monforts
All of the Monforts lines have customers. As the only continues to be excellent,” Mr
working widths of 3.4 metres and manufacturer which is able to Katzenstein concluded. “We have
benefit from the latest Qualitex offer completely integrated had a long-standing relationship
800 control system. This has all of coating lines from a single source, for many years, but were really
the familiar features of the latest Monforts coating heads impressed with the service they
touchscreen smart phones and are tailored to the company’s provided this time.” ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 13


www.monforts.com

Zero defects
‘a la lyonnaise’
Monforts technology is providing major benefits
for the French luxury brands fabric supplier
renowned for its know-how in silk finishing.
Quality is the number one The five-chamber Montex 8500 “The fabrics are very delicate and
requirement for Hugotag, a machine at the Fourneaux plant is require a sensitive treatment when
specialist French finisher of silk equipped with newly-developed being pinned into the stentering
fabrics to many of the world’s 24-inch visualisation monitors, chain, as well as very gentle drying
most prestigious luxury brands. providing total, intuitive – without the fabrics ever touching
Now a member of the Chanel automation and surveillance via the nozzles and with absolutely no
Group, the company in its the Monforts Qualitex 800 system. air turbulence in the dryer.”
present form represents the “The humidity of the air inside
merging five years ago of two Precision the stenter is crucial for ensuring a
former silk businesses – Tag, “It’s an excellent machine,” says perfect quality fabric feel,” adds
founded in 1974 in Fourneaux, Hugotag Director General Philippe French representative for Monforts,
close to Lyon, and Hugo Soie, a Magat. “The key parameters for Christophe Monel, of Monel
St Etienne-based company with a us include homogenous drying Industrie Services.
200-year history. over the length and width of the
machine and precise control of Fine silks
Consolidation the tension of the fabric, because Hugotag is finishing some very fine
Investment in new equipment has the silk has a natural elasticity, silk fabrics indeed – sheer muslins
followed the merger and consoli- even without the addition of that can be as light as 14 gsm,
dation of the companies at the elastane. The Monforts stenter along with chiffons, and heavier
Fourneaux site, including allows us to completely control satins and twills. The weights of the
advanced digital printing the tension from the fabric entry more delicate fabrics are usually
machines, as well as the instal- right through to the winding between 20-50 gsm, and produced
lation of a finishing line centred on machines – and we have special in average widths of 90 centimetres
the latest Monforts Montex 8500 units for winding onto small rolls to a maximum of 1.9 metres on the
stenter and a Matex padder. too.” 3.2-metre wide Monforts finishing

Intuitive automation and surveillance are


provided via the Monforts Qualitex system.

Hugotag Director
General Philippe Magat.

14 | World of Textiles | Europe |


HUGOTAG
range. In haute couture fine
fashion, of course, they command
very high prices.
As a result of the extremely
specialist nature of handling such
delicate fabrics, the Monforts line
has been equipped with a number
of additional features, including
special needle chain devices for
dealing with knitted silk fabrics, a
steamer unit, a computerised weft-
straightening device and
associated controls, and a
horizontal combined chain.
The stentering chain is
completely sealed – to avoid ~any
As a result of the extremely specialist
grease or oil coming into contact nature of handling such delicate fabrics,
with the fabrics at any time – and the Monforts line has been equipped
fitted with long-lasting lubricated with a number of additional features.
bearings.
Special attention has also been
paid to energy recovery, with low
energy consumption IE3 motors
and the integration of a full heat
recovery system into the line.
Philippe Magat confirms that this
is now providing Hugotag with
significant energy savings.

Historic legacy
Like its equally famous counterpart
in Italy – Como – Lyon has histor-
ically been associated with silk
fabric production, and all of
The five-chamber Montex 8500
Hugotag’s fabrics are still woven
machine at the Fourneaux plant is
locally. Piece-dyeing was equipped with newly-developed
introduced in Lyon and became an 24-inch visualisation monitors.
industrial process in the mid-18th
century and for a long time can now do it successfully,” says computer-controlled machines
remained a speciality of the region. Philippe Magat. “More than like the Montex 8500 still can’t do
Screen-printing is meanwhile anything, however, zero defects are – and perhaps never will.
sometimes known as ‘a la our objective, and this is Hugotag still relies on the keen
lyonnaise’ because Lyon is something the new highly- eyes of its specialist quality fabric
acknowledged as the first region to automated and computerised control inspectors who have
industrialise the process during this Monforts line is allowing many years of experience, rather
same period. us to achieve. than digital optical inspection
And although there still remain “We don’t need to run at high systems that are readily-available
other silk finishers in France, speeds, and average 15-20 metres on the market.
Hugotag is one of only two to carry per minute, because the priority is “At this level of quality, it’s a skill
out the ‘degumming’ of the silk perfection. Our customers are very machines are simply unable to
fabrics using ‘Marseilles Soap’ – a discerning and even the smallest of replace,” Philippe Magat
chemical-free formulation based on defects can result in returns, which concludes. “Through many years
100% olive oil, developed long we simply can’t afford to allow to of experience I am able to spot
before the concept of sustainability damage our reputation.” even the smallest detail that the
was even known. average eye simply can’t see –
“It’s a very specific treatment and The human touch and so can the specialist team
because the fabric is so very It is reassuring to know, however, working here. Our exclusive
delicate it’s very difficult to do on that there are still some things customers would expect nothing
an industrial machine, but we that highly-automated and less.” ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 15


www.monforts.com

Trusted quality
from Catalonia
Spain’s circular knits finishing specialist has recently taken
delivery of a new Montex stenter at its Barcelona plant.
In opting to partner with Monforts Specialist are subsequently supplied to
for the supply of its third fabric Tinfer has adapted over the years garment makers for the global
stenter, commission dyer and from being a supplier of brands and retailers and the
finisher Tinfer put service – along commodity textiles to company is a firm believer in
with the proven reliability of establishing a reputation as thinking global while acting local.
advanced Montex stenters – at the Spain’s specialist in swimwear “The emphasis can only be on
top of its list of priorities. and sportswear – and especially constant high quality, which our
Founded in 1973, originally in the dyeing and finishing of customers expect as standard,”
as Tintes Fernández, in Arenys circular knits with a high degree says General Manager Xavier
de Munt, the company shortened of stretch, based on elastanes Alabau Basart, who is the son in
its name, expanded and with polyesters, polyamides, law of the company’s founder
relocated to its present plant in cottons and their blends. Juan Fernández. “This in turn
Pineda de Mar just down the While 90% of its customers are relies on both our own high
coast from Barcelona at the third party distributors in standards and working with
beginning of the 1980s. Catalonia, the fabrics Tinfer treats trusted suppliers. We needed to

View from the operation deck.

16 | World of Textiles | Europe |


TINFER

The stenter is one of the first in Europe to


benefit from the integration of the self-cleaning
Monforts Eco Booster heat recovery unit.

invest in a third stenter to increase which means the machine doesn’t


our capacity in response to higher have to be stopped at all,” says
demand from our major Aguilar and Pineda Sales Engineer
customers, and this time decided Oriol Canet. “In addition, the
to opt for the Monforts system.” degree of soiling of the rotating
heat exchanger wheel is
Know-how monitored automatically, deciding
The agent for Monforts in when cleaning is required and to
Barcelona, Aguilar and Pineda, what degree, so the mill no longer
benefits directly from the has to rely on the operator.”
technical know-how of its The new line is fully automatic,
Technical Director Karl with all the intuitive features
Sonnleitner. He was previously a operators will be familiar with from
Tinfer General Manager
Senior Engineer for Monforts at its Xavier Alabau Basart.
touchscreen smart phones and
Mönchengladbach HQ, so Tinfer tablets provided by the Monforts
couldn’t be in more experienced benefit from the integration of the Qualitex 800 control system.
hands at a local level. self-cleaning Monforts Eco This makes navigation
“Not surprisingly, Karl’s an Booster heat recovery unit. extremely easy and has consid-
expert in this field and located just The Eco Booster is equipped erably cut down the time required
30 kilometres from our factory,” with an electric drive for for Tinfer’s operatives to become
says Mr Alabau. “There are computer-controlled optimisation familiar with the system.
always teething problems with of the heat exchanger’s “In my opinion the latest
any new line but the response performance to the prevailing Monforts Montex is without
from both Aguilar and Pineda and exhaust air streams – something doubt the best horizontal chain
Monforts has been tremendous.” that is not possible with purely stenter on the market,” Mr
The new six-chamber Montex static heat exchanger modules. Alabau concludes. “We are now
stenter which was commissioned “The Monforts Eco Booster heat building on the additional
at the Pineda de Mar plant has a recovery unit puts an end to capacity it has provided us with
working width of 2.2 metres. It is maintenance downtime as a result and we expect it to be fully
one of the first in Europe to of its automatic cleaning control, booked out very shortly.” ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 17


www.monforts.com

Two-way trust
Having only recently invested in what is now the largest
Monforts Montex stenter installation in Europe, Portugal’s
Riopele has placed a new order for a further machine of similar
dimensions to become operational during 2019.
As the owner and third-generation period, and the two-way trust that 2016 the company, with 1,025
chairman of Riopele – a company is necessary today, to ensure our employees, achieved an average
established by his grandfather mutual success,” says Mr Oliveira. annual turnover of €71 million
with just two water looms in 1927 “We endeavour to be ahead of the with an EBITDA margin of 8.5%.
– José Alexandre Oliveira has field, and key drivers for us are In 2017, Riopele enjoyed its best
adopted a successful strategy of currently the new possibilities year to date, with sales climbing
forming much stronger ties with offered by Industry 4.0 and digiti- to €74 million and an EBITDA of
both customers and suppliers in sation, in addition to the push 15%. The headcount at the plant
recent years. towards a circular economy.” in Pousada de Saramagos near
Riopele’s customers, it should It’s certainly a strategy that is Porto has meanwhile increased to
be emphasised, are some of the paying off – between 2012 and 1,069 people.
biggest high-end and luxury
brands in the world, including
Armani, Hugo Boss, Burberry,
Calvin Klein, Karl Lagerfeld,
Massimo Dutti, Paul Smith,
Versace, Max Mara, Victoria
Beckham, Sandro and Maje.

Mutual success
“We now have a closeness with
these customers that would have
Riopele’s four-hub
been inconceivable six or seven Pousada de Saramagos
years ago, and it’s based on how Riopele chairman José plant extends over an area
the industry has changed over that Alexandre Oliveira. of 140,000 square metres.

Dominating the Riopele finishing


department is the latest Montex stenter.

18 | World of Textiles | Europe |


RIOPELE

Vertical
Entirely vertically integrated, from
raw material to finished fabric,
Riopele has a monthly output of
around 700,000 metres of fabrics
based on synthetic, natural and
recycled fibres, with a speciali-
sation in polyester, viscose and
elastane blends. Production is 24
hours a day, over three shifts and
the company’s key fabric brands
are Çeramica, Çeramica Clean,
Tecnosilk and Tenowa.
Riopele’s strategy of close The 12-chamber Montex stenter has a
full installation length of some 70-metres.
partnerships also extends to its
technology suppliers. Over an
area of 140,000 square metres,
the four-hub Pousada de
Saramagos plant is equipped with
some 30,000 spindles, ten
winding machines and over 60
twisting machines, as well as 204
weaving machines.
The company’s finishing
operations are divided into three
stages – preparation, dyeing and Special J-boxes at the Montex
finishing – with a wide variety of stenter’s inlet and outlet allow
for the gentle storage of a
processes enabling the fine tuning high volume of material.
of colour, touch, gloss, look,
function and fluidity. the stenter’s inlet and outlet, for brands – they can no longer show
the gentle storage of a high garments that will be available in
Partnership volume of material. The special six months’ or a year’s time,
As long-standing partner with heat recovery system was also because consumers are now
Monforts, Riopele has a variety of tailored specifically to the geared to having things they want
the German machine builder’s company’s needs, based on immediately. These expectations
equipment, and dominating the detailed calculations.” have totally changed how
finishing department is the latest The next ten-chamber Monforts everyone operates along the
Montex stenter, with 12 chambers Montex stenter which is currently entire supply chain.
and a full installation length of being built will be operational this “Our ongoing investment in
some 70-metres. The line was year, as part of a new €10 million technology is critical to keeping
installed as part of a €14 million investment plan. ahead in the market, but just as
investment programme between “We need close relationships critical is our investment in our
2014-16. with the suppliers of our people,” he adds. “Building on our
“This stenter combines equipment, who we know know-how of 91 years and
production efficiency with to be the best in the world,” passing it on to the coming
excellent energy efficiency, says Mr Oliveira. “When partners generation is of extreme
ensuring a continuous production like Monforts develop something importance. This is being
flow with a positive impact in new, we trust them to tell us achieved through our internship
terms of delivery time,” notes about it straight away so programme, research and
Fernando Araújo, of we can incorporate it into our development programmes with
Maquicontrolo, the Monforts forward planning. research centres and universities,
agent for Portugal. “Monforts and special initiatives such as an
worked closely with Riopele’s Technology and people open space R&D hub, bringing
technicians on the special design, “It’s no longer like in the past, together our research,
which has a number of unique when you would wait until the development and product
features designed according to next ITMA to discover what they engineering teams.
their specifications. These include, were unveiling. This is just the “All of this equips us for future
for example, special J-boxes at same as the expectation from the success,” Mr Oliveira concludes. ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 19


www.monforts.com

First at the finishing


line for 150 years
Swiss fabric innovator Schoeller Textil has taken the finishing
of two-layer laminates for protective clothing and outdoor
and active sportswear to a new level of production efficiency
with the installation of a Monforts Eco Applicator unit.
The innovations over the decades They include the introduction of in the early 1980s and the first
from Schoeller – which celebrated the first elastic ski apparel at the temperature regulating fabrics
its 150th anniversary in 2018 – are start of the 1960s, the integration over twenty years ago.
too numerous to mention. of Kevlar into motorcycle jackets From its base in the beautiful
village of Sevelen, at the foot of a
scenic stretch of the Swiss Alps
close to the border with Austria,
Schoeller has been responsible
for a succession of award-winning
and exclusive new fabric finishes,
many of which are now licensed
to third party mills.
These include coldblack® for UV
protection, energear™, which
exploits the beneficial properties
of far infrared from the body,
NanoSphere®, for water, oil and
dirt repellency, along with highly
wash and abrasion resistance,
3XDRY®, for moisture
Schoeller’s Sevelen plant in Switzerland. management, and the latest
environmentally-sensitive
The new Monforts
Schoeller treatments, ecorepel®
Eco Applicator at
the Schoeller plant. and ecodry.
Having led the field in stretch
woven fabrics for many years,
Schoeller considerably expanded
its range of knitted fabrics
through the acquisition of fellow
Swiss manufacturer Eschler
Group in 2012.

Standards
Manufacturing in Switzerland,
of course, comes with environ-
mental responsibility – the country
has consistently ranked Number
One worldwide in the Environ-
mental Performance Index (EPI)
and as a consequence, Schoeller
has had to meet standards even

20 | World of Textiles | Europe |


SCHOELLER
higher than in surrounding
European companies.
Everything a manufacturing
plant does is strictly regulated,
including the land, water and air
that is used, but Schoeller was an
early responder in this respect,
having become the first textile
company in the world to receive
bluesign® certification back in
2001 – indeed, the company was
instrumental in establishing this
highly-successful system.
It excludes all environmentally Schoeller two-layer membranes.
harmful substances from the
manufacturing process, sets
guidelines and monitors their
observance for environmentally
friendly and reliable production.
Further, the company has a
close cooperation with the
environmental authorities in
Switzerland and has also gone to
great lengths to ensure no
emissions or noise come from the
Sevelen plant – which is in both a
rural and residential area – and Both stenters are connected to a together by the Eco Applicator
that it blends naturally into its heat exchange system. On the before going to the stenter,”
immediate environment. latest stenter, the waste air also explains Michael Killisperger,
goes through the heat exchanger manager of Schoeller’s finishing
Natural fit to heat up the fresh air, providing and coating department. “The Eco
The advantages that can be two sources of recycled energy – Applicator is designed for minimal
provided by the Monforts Eco both air and water. Half of the application, and we can measure
Applicator for water, energy and energy used for warm water at the moisture humidity at the
raw material savings were a the plant is gained through heat entrance of the unit and then after
natural fit for the company’s plant. recovery. The energy is harvested both the first and second passes
It has been designed to provide from the waste air of the steam through it.
significant energy savings with boilers as well as the stenters, and “Ideally we’re looking for 20%
reduced liquor application, the residual heat of the recovered residual content – 10% on each
eliminating the need for a conven- steam condensation. side. Most of these membranes are
tional wet-on-wet padder and The Eco Applicator has been highly elastic so high control of the
employing trough and roller integrated at the start of the fabric tension is also required to
techniques to apply just the second Montex line at the Sevelen prevent the creation of stripes. This
required amount of liquid/coating plant and its prime function is to can also be controlled at various
to fabrics via contact with the roller. make substrates for Schoeller’s points within the unit.”
As a long-standing Monforts membranes hydrophilic on their The installation is part of an on-
customer, Schoeller already inner side and hydrophobic on the going programme that has seen
operates two 2.4-metre-wide outer side in a single pass – over 25 million Swiss francs
Montex stenters, the most recent although a further 20-25 different invested in new technology at the
being a 60-metre long, ten- finishing treatments are also Schoeller plant over the past
chamber unit. carried out on the line. decade and has led to further new
This has a very long feed-in product developments such as
area, since for some laminated Minimal application the introduction of upcycled
materials it is necessary to “It’s not possible to finish the Econyl® yarns (by Aquafil SpA)
use two A frames for feeding layers individually, prior to hot and the PFC-free ecorepel® Bio
in the different materials, as melt laminating so the fabrics and technology, based on renewable
well as accommodating padding membrane films are dyed raw materials, as new
and laminating/coating and separately prior to being components for the company’s
bonding machines. laminated, and then finished industry-leading membranes. ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 21


www.monforts.com

Inspection boards
for textile excellence
The exclusive wallcovering collections of Tapetex are to be
found in the very best guest rooms of the world’s finest hotels,
in executive boardrooms and offices and in top-of-the-range
luxury new housing developments across the world.
As family-owned company with a “Our aim is to always come up Specialisation
50-strong workforce at the plant in with materials that other “We opted from the start to
Helmond, The Netherlands, companies simply can’t make,” concentrate solely on wallcov-
Tapetex takes the finest fabrics of said Managing Director Bart van erings and our collections are
Europe’s most advanced weaving den Broek, whose father founded now well known to architects
mills – pure silks, linens, the company in 1975 as a trading Ωand specifiers worldwide.
jacquards, wools and suede – and operation, before deciding to Manufacturers for other markets
turns them into unique collections bring full finishing processes in- attempt to enter the field quite
via a combination of in-house house a decade later, in order to often, but find it harder than they
design know-how and advanced be completely in control of anticipated because it’s a complex
finishing techniques. quality and the just-in-time distri- market. They come and go.”
Since 1975 Tapetex has been bution network. The Tapetex plant is equipped
considered the master in the field with all of the latest technology
of textile wallcoverings, with for laminating and embossing,
sustainability and quality as its dyeing, double-sided coating and
main focus. All products are heatsetting, crushing, flocking,
made from natural and renewable laser engraving and digital and
fibres such as linen, silk, cotton, conventional printing, including a
viscose and only in exceptional Monforts Thermex dyeing line for
cases are man-made fibres used, both wovens and nonwovens.
if there is not yet a sustainable The company’s latest digital
alternative. The company runs a printing line is capable of simulta-
100% water-based production neously printing three different
facility in which PVC, solvents, Tapetex Managing Director designs on 110 cm diameter
plasticizers etc., are banned. Bart van den Broek. jumbo rolls.
Recently, a 2.2-metre-wide, six
Operator view of the stenter. chamber Monforts Montex
stenter has been installed in a
new 4,000 square metre
expansion at the Helmond site.
“An older stenter is still being
used for more limited runs,” said
Mr Van den Broek, “but with the
new Montex line we can do much
more. It has allowed us to
introduce a number of new
processes that were previously
not possible.
“We can run coating and
finishing processes that need
better temperature, moisture, and

22 | World of Textiles | Europe |


TAPETEX

The 2.2 metre wide, six chamber Monforts Montex


stenter has been installed in a new 4,000 square
metre expansion at the Helmond site.

air speed parameters in a much these fabrics, so we rely on the anywhere in the world in a matter
more controlled way.” best computerised technology.” of days,” said Mr van den Broek.
The Tapetex collections are “We have established a very good
Reliability and repeatability generally subtle and subdued, logistics network worldwide.”
It is one of the most meticulously with an understated appearance The company’s latest collection
clean plants in the world, and as often belying the sophisticated is based on both wetlaid and
an extra measure, all fabrics are techniques behind their creation. spunbonded nonwovens.
brushed as an initial step in A material like Belle Epoque, for “Again, many of these
eliminating dust and potential example, is a tri-dimensional products are supplied in several
contaminants prior the start of the suede wallcovering which has laminated layers with several
finishing and converting steps. intricate laser cut patterns coatings and usually double-
“We need to be sure every revealing the nonwoven base calendered to provide the perfect
metre of fabric is perfect from the fabric and with silver and gold finish we need,” Mr van den
first to the very last of a touches imprinted around its 3D Broek explained.
production run,” said Mr van den crenulations. “Our nonwovens collections are
Broek. “It’s about reliability and Tech Inspirations, meanwhile, is not cheap, but the materials fall
repeatability. a linen which has been cleverly between the general market for
“The Montex 6500 stenter has embossed in variated grid lines, vinyl wallcoverings and our high-
been running very well and gives its design trialled on a lead end wovens. Their big advantage
us complete computerised template, so that its shimmers as compared to vinyl is that they are
control of all parameters such as the eye moves across it and the made from sustainable raw
temperature, moisture and viewer moves across a room. materials and furthermore allow
setting times. Shambala Silk, a 100% the walls to breathe – in some
handwoven silk, radiates luxury parts of the world mildew is an
Proprietary recipes with its natural sheen and very issue due to humidity but with
“We make all our own finishing subtle gold 3D print on top. textile and nonwoven wallcov-
recipes and dyes in-house and try These are just three examples of erings there is no danger.
to do as much as possible the close to 400 fabrics in widths “The walls on which our
ourselves. We deal with a lot of of 110 or 137cm rolls that Tapetex materials are eventually hung are
expensive woven materials and keeps in stock and currently sells essentially inspection boards.
quality has to be guaranteed – to over 70 countries worldwide With other textiles in bigger
especially if an order is being via its sales offices and agents. production runs there are small
shipped to the other side of the mistakes that can be worked with,
world from here. Last minute but in what we do there’s
“With these kinds of fabrics, “Our customers generally like to absolutely no margin for even the
even the smallest of mistakes can order at the very last minute that a smallest error.
be very expensive. There can be job is specified and appreciate the “The new Montex is helping
anywhere up to fifteen separate ready availability of what they us achieve this very high
stages to the finishing of some of want, which can be shipped quality standard.” ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 23


www.monforts.com

Only the best for


Italian luxury goods
Tessitura Oreste Mariani Spa is operating Italy’s first Montex
texCoat coating unit at its plant in Gissano, just outside Milan.
The extremely flexible texCoat
unit is allowing the company to
carry out both knife over air and
knife over roller coating based on
simple and user-friendly PLC
techniques, with on-screen visual-
isation for all operating modes
and recipe management for many
different coating processes; all
integrated in to the proven
Qualitex control system of the
Montex stenter.

Third generation
Tessitura Oreste Mariani Spa,
Andrea and Gaia Mariani.
founded in 1937, is now run by
Andrea and Gaia Mariani and their apparel fabrics, before the advent the comparative cost of an Italian
cousin Edoardo Mariani – as third of synthetics, notably nylon, fabric for one.
generation members of the opened up a huge niche market “Fifteen years ago, there were
founder’s family. Today it for woven umbrella fabrics at the suddenly 20 million Chinese-
specialises in high-end linings for end of the 1950s in Italy,” explains made umbrellas in Italy,
luxury handbags and shoes, as Andrea Mariani. accounting for 99% of the market
well as continuing to also make “The company, like a number of and many of the local manufac-
the umbrella fabrics which for others, then devoted itself 100 % turers and their suppliers were
many years were the company’s to nylon umbrella fabrics and it forced to close down.”
sole stock-in-trade. was a strong business for many
“The company was founded by decades. Then very quickly, Diversification
my grandfather and initially was Chinese companies were able to Tessitura Oreste Mariani’s
just a weaving operation, making supply a fully-made umbrella for response was to diversify, initially
into sun umbrellas and garden
furniture, but eventually its fabrics
for luxury leather goods came
more to the fore, built on firm
relationships with the brands, and
today represent 85% of business,
with the remaining 15% being
umbrella fabrics.
“This shift demanded significant
investments to broaden our
dyeing and finishing operations
and become more vertically
integrated,” said Andrea.
Mariani’s latest finishing line The company now operates 24
is some 43 metres long. doubled width weaving looms, 19

24 | World of Textiles | Europe |


MARIANI
of which are equipped with
Jacquard harnesses, a range of
regular and high temperature
dyeing systems and two finishing
and coating lines. It also has fully
equipped units for cylinder,
screen and transfer printing along
with a dedicated inspection
department and a fully-equipped
textile testing laboratory.

Residential
Due to the plant’s residential
location, it also benefits
from advanced water, air With the Qualitex visualisation
software, ‘finger tip’ control features
and heat recycling and ensure smarter operating procedures.
purification equipment.
“This change in response to the The Montex 8500 stenter is yourself with everything that’s
market was something of a distinguished by several new actually possible.
revolution for the company,” says features, including a newly “The machine is longer
Gaia, “because until then we had designed operator’s platform with than our other working four-
been making standard fabrics improved access, a new and chamber stenter, and the older
based mainly on one fibre – nylon improved visualisation with one it has replaced, and by
– and producing bulk orders. modern ‘slider effect’ on bigger 24 comparison, operating speeds
“In moving successfully into the inch screen monitors and the Eco are 30-40% higher.
luxury brands market we had to Booster heat recovery module. “On average, we are running
review our entire operation and With the Qualitex visualisation each fabric four times through the
focus on many different types of software, ‘finger tip’ control stenter, to thermo-fix before
fabric construction and designs, features offer smart phone-type dyeing, for drying after dyeing,
while at the same time shortening techniques for the machine for waterproofing and then
our production cycles and operators and ensure smarter for coating. With the texCoat,
enhancing our packaging and operating procedures. the application of coating
distribution operations. Additional benefits allow the chemicals is very precisely
“We now work with many of the operator to compose and pre- measured and applied.”
famous luxury brands and 90% of programme the ‘dashboard’ of the Mariani’s fabric constructions
our manufacturing is personalised monitor to personal requirements for umbrellas are generally nylon
for them, based on discussions and preferences. warp yarns with polyester weft
with their designers about how to yarns, but for luxury goods,
best adapt the fabrics in our Full control combinations of many different
regular collections for their Mariani is still working to further yarns are employed, including
specific leather goods. exploit the maximum benefits wool and cotton and those based
“We are now very flexible in from the new line. on luxury fibres.
terms of colours, constructions “In many ways, it’s a lot simpler The weight range too is different,
and designs in striving to innovate for the operators because averaging around 50-60gsm for
with them.” everything is electronically umbrella fabrics and up to 500-
“The readiness of some of these controlled,” says Andrea Mariani. 600gsm for luxury materials.
brands to explore the reshoring of “One major benefit with the new A range of heavy duty double-
their supply chains to local stenter, for example, is complete faced Jacquards is also produced.
producers has also been helpful in electronic control of the tension “Because the new Monforts
recent years,” she adds, “although at all times, and the same applies technology is completely
at the same time, the business to temperature. electronic, the adjustments for
remains highly cost competitive.” “We use a range of temperatures differing weights and fabric
Mariani’s latest finishing line for our different finishing steps and constructions are immediate and
certainly further strengthens the each chamber of the stenter can instantly compensated for, in
company’s position. be individually optimised. But, in a terms of tension control, humidity,
It is some 43 metres long and at way, it’s a little like changing from machine speed and all other
its heart is the six-chamber an old-fashioned desk phone to an parameters,” Andrea Mariani
Monforts Montex stenter and iPhone for us – although relatively concludes. “We are learning to
texCoat coating unit. easy, it takes time to familiarise totally trust this technology.” ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 25


www.monforts.com

Complete Econtrol
Through investment in new Monforts technology, Istanbul
Boyahanesi is planning to increase its capacity for the
commission dyeing and finishing of woven goods to a
monthly 2.5 million square metres during 2019.

The company is surely also the


only dyehouse in Turkey to date
with its own proprietary software
for virtual control of all
operations via smartphone
or TV from the boardroom.
The special app-based
programme has been developed
by co-founder and director Kemal
Taşkin, who has a background in
software engineering, and it
provides real-time information on
all machine parameters and
operator activity.
“I am now developing it further
and in the near-future it will also
be able to provide financial
forecasting for us right down to
individual batch level,” he says.
Istanbul Boyahanesi plant manager
Hakan Kaplan (left) and co-founder This development has much in
and director Kemal Taşkin. common with the advances
Monforts is making itself in the
field of Industry 4.0 and
automation, such as the latest
Qualitex control system and the
Web-UI app for remote visuali-
sation of Monforts technologies via
smart phones and tablet devices.

Thermex Econtrol
Based in the key Turkish textile
centre of Çerkezköy, Istanbul
Boyahanesi was only founded in
2017, on the site of an older
existing dyehouse. It is a joint
venture between two of Turkey’s
leading textile wholesalers, Yilmaz
Kumaşçilik, which specialises in
fabrics for casual and outerwear,
and shirtings and suitings textiles
operation Erika Kumaşçilik.
The Monforts Thermex Immediately on its formation,
Econtrol continuous dyeing the first move of the new
line at Istanbul Boyahanesi. company was to order a new

26 | World of Textiles | Europe |


ISTANBUL BOYAHANESI

Istanbul Boyahanesi plant.

Dahboard of Istanbul Boyahanesi’s proprietary


app-based plant control programme developed
by co-founder and director Kemal Taşkin.

Monforts Thermex Econtrol The Thermex Econtrol range Continuous quality


continuous dyeing line. has a working width of 1.8 metres “The Monforts Montex stenter is
“The existing equipment we and allows the single-bath of course, our key product and its
inherited, which includes a 23- continuous dyeing of cotton and advantages are well established,”
year-old Monforts Montex stenter, polyester fabrics with selected says Neotek founder Ahmet Kiliç.
is only suitable for producing reactive and dispersion dyestuffs, “It allows our customers to
heavy weight fabrics with weights as well as cotton-polyester blends achieve high quality contin-
of 300gsm and above,” Mr Taşkin to be processed without reductive uously, with the trusted electronic
explains. “The new Thermex intermediate cleaning, eliminating drive technology of Monforts.
allows us to get down to fabric the need for a steamer. With the energy savings that are
weights of 80gsm. The old pad Other processes, such as the achieved they also save money
dyeing system we have is also use of indanthren vat dyes for and being robust, Monforts
very time-consuming and the enhanced wash and boil stenters also require fewer spare
Thermex has allowed us to fastness, or the over-dyeing on parts and less maintenance, with
considerably shorten processing reactive-dyed cotton fabrics to remote assistance in any case
times for the heavier fabrics, while achieve an extremely broad always available.
at the same time considerably range of colour effects, are also “All of the components in
expanding our product offering. carried out on the range. Monforts machines are the best
It’s an extremely versatile range, The range was installed and available and the majority of the
allowing us to instantly see the commissioned in a very tight companies in Turkey either
results and to easily move space within the existing already have experience with
between reactive and disperse factory by Istanbul-based them and trust the brand, or see
dyeing, for example.” Monforts partner Neotek Tekstil, the benchmarks being set by
which is also a new company, their competitors, making
Savings formed in February 2016 to Monforts technology the natural
“Of course, there is no assume responsibility for choice,” he adds.
comparison in terms of Monforts dyeing and finishing “We have been very happy
chemicals and energy usage and technology throughout Turkey. with the service we have received
with the Thermex the savings are In the short period since its to date from Monforts and
considerable,” adds plant inception, Neotek has already Neotek, and will continue to trust
manager Hakan Kaplan. “It is also installed and commissioned over their technology going forward
allowing us to make much longer 50 full Monforts ranges as we expand our business,”
batches of fabrics.” throughout the country. Mr Taşkin concludes. ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 27


www.monforts.com

One step ahead


Portugal’s leading commission finisher has recently
installed a new Montex stenter – despite some limitations
on space for expansion at its Guimeraes plant.
In the commission finishing Belgium and Germany in recent struggling, as Portugal adjusted to
business, finding the time to make years. These exports now account democracy in the years following
necessary new investments in the for around 20% of total its Carnation Revolution of 1974.
latest technology can be difficult. commission finishing business. A “You can imagine, it was not
Services can’t just stop and orders second business involving the easy for a young woman to be
be delayed when an old machine making-up, embroidery and introduced to the management of
needs to be dismantled and a new packaging of high-end bed and such a traditional company in
one installed. table linen under the well-known Portugal back then, and my father
For Vaz da Costa, which was Bovi brand also operates from the had his own way of doing things,
founded in 1960 on the edge of site, with a total combined so there was some resistance to
the historic centre of Guimaraes in workforce of around 180 people. my ideas,” she says. Amelia was
Northern Portugal, there’s also the Around 80% of these products soon joined by her brother
question of space. The town are for export markets. Separate Francisco and her sister Isabel,
centre of Guimaraes has been entrance and exit points for the however, and together the trio
listed as a UNESCO World two businesses have recently have successfully steered Vaz da
Heritage site since 2001, yet its eased logistics. Costa’s progression ever since.
suburbs have expanded signifi- Today, Amelia’s son and daughter
cantly in the past half century and Investments are also part of the management
now the Vaz da Costa plant is “We are currently in the middle of team as it moves to third
surrounded by residential what is our biggest ever generation family ownership.
buildings, making further outward investment programme, although Vaz da Costa has recently
expansion near-to impossible. it’s pretty much an ongoing successfully installed and
Nevertheless, the site is process,” says Amélia Marques, commissioned a new Monforts
currently dyeing and finishing who joined the company, which Montex stenter, having previously
around 100,000 metres of fabric was founded by her father, fresh opted for a machine from a rival
daily, and has expanded its from obtaining her economics supplier which proved
commissioning services to degree in the late 1970s. This was problematic on its installation in
customers in France, Spain, at a time when the company was 2012, as well as in subsequent
day-to-day operation.
There have been no such
problems with the new Monforts
eight chamber machine, which
has a working width of 3.6 metres
and as such is one of the largest
in Europe, operating continuously
at speeds of above 100 metres a
minute. It is equipped with a
Mahlo weft straightening unit and
a Benninger padder, in addition to
a Monforts Ecobooster hear
recovery system.

Fine tuning
Vaz da Costa’s plant is on the
outskirts of Guimaraes in Northern “There are always many
Portugal. The town’s centre has adjustments to be made in fine-
been listed as a UNESCO World tuning such a machine,” says
Heritage site since 2001. Fernando Araújo, of

28 | World of Textiles | Europe |


VAZ DA COSTA

With eight chambers and a working width


of 3.6 metres, Vaz da Costa’s new Montex
stenter is one of the largest in Europe.

Maquicontrolo, the Monforts The ‘disc-o-clean’ unit on the


new stenter carries out the
representative for Portugal. “It’s
automatic sieving and collection
not just like buying a new car. of dust from production.
There are so many challenges
arising on a day-to-day basis.”
“The automation features on the
latest Monforts machine certainly
help to eliminate any chance of
human error,” adds Amélia
Marques, “but there are so many
parameters involved. The heating
distribution, for example, is
always challenging. Maintaining a
consistent level can be difficult for
so many reasons. It can be a
question of the temperature in the
plant changing rapidly, or the
difference between how the
machine has been cleaned from the laboratory stage and we now “We can’t afford to stop
one shift to the next. There are have two fully equipped labs, production for the usual
lots of things you can’t see where personnel has increased timescale involved so this will
immediately and sometimes you from a single person to eight ease the pressure and keep
only detect things after a problem people,” says Mrs Marques. things flowing,” Mrs Marques
has occurred. For this reason I Following the installation of the said. “It’s a question of organising
don’t think you’ll ever be able to new Montex stenter, Vaz da Costa it all when and how we can, and
fully automate a finishing line.” is this year planning a further €5 when it will cause the least
The company is primarily million investment programme disruption, but we expect to have
finishing 100% cotton fabrics in which will see a new warehouse it all completed shortly. We are
wide widths, in the weight range building, away from the main also currently exploring the
of 130-200gsm, with very even site, but closer to the main potential of digital pigment
conditions required for the motorway link. New bleaching printing for our bed linen
squeezing. and singeing units and a drum business, and also looking at new
dryer are also to be installed and embroidery machines and a new
Quality control these will be built up at the calendar. Investment is ongoing,
“Because we are in constant former warehouse in order to because only the strongest
production, the emphasis is minimise the time required for players who keep up with the
increasingly on quality control at installation and commissioning. latest technology survive.” ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 29


www.monforts.com

Just in time
reaction and action
Hans Wroblowski, Area Sales Director and
Head of Product Management for Denim at
Monforts, proposes some positive
measures for keeping a step ahead in
textile manufacturing with Industry 4.0.
We are currently facing the Now we are truly in the digital
biggest challenge of our times – age, surrounded by smart
Hans Wroblowski.
what is now being referred to as technologies and permanent
the 4th Industrial Revolution. online solutions.
A. Monforts was founded in the With online finance and technology in order to help our
year 1884 and our evolution in shopping, expert systems have customers respond to the
textile engineering and machine been developed for optimizing fundamental challenges facing the
building has progressed from internationally-linked businesses, textile industry today. These can
mechanical, steam and water- along with business models for constitute something of a vicious
powered technologies to the first global production planning, in circle of demands and
mass production lines, electronic order to achieve the shortest expectations as a result of:
drives and highly modular possible supply and delivery times. • Fragmented process chains.
machines such as our stenters. • Different time and
The move towards the current Challenges production scales.
state of the art has involved firstly How should textile manufacturers • Missing standards of
data transfer and storage via respond to this situation? communication interfaces.
internet/intranet, along with At Monforts, we have a clear • Small profit margins.
teleservice solutions, followed by mission and are committed to
full automation concepts. investing in the digitization of our The reality of low margins and
low profits means that textile
The four Industrial Revolutions. manufacturers are ultimately
fighting for every production cent
which can be saved. This can
result in a reluctance to invest in
new textile machinery, but
manufacturers really need to
explore what additional value the
latest technologies can deliver.
The era of digitization is
demanding new structures and
new ways of thinking, in order to
assume digital leadership.
The key benefits the latest
technologies can provide include:
• A reduction in the cost of
energy sources.
• A reduction in machinery
production costs.
• The sharing of process operators.

30 | World of Textiles | Europe |


INDUSTRY 4.0
• A reduction in machine
downtime.
• Optimised production planning.

The objectives, which will result in


a rapid return on investment are:
• Higher productivity.
• Higher machine availability.
• Increased efficiency.

The expectation of the industry is


‘just in time reaction and action’
and time is the most valuable
asset within our industry.
The latest tools which can
ensure this include:
• Remote service, with easy
and secure connection
to the machines.
• Maintenance and
servicing management.
• Spare parts support and a shop
system directly at the machine.
• Advanced monitoring
and visualization of
machine conditions. The circular
dilemma for textile
manufacturers.
Energy and
resource savings
The textile industry consumes • The Matex Eco Applicator, as an Steps to
huge amounts of energy and alternative to padding, for successful digitization
resources at virtually all stages minimum liquor application, Companies who choose to follow
of production, but especially especially for wet-in-wet a Textile 4.0 strategy can set out
during finishing, where large solutions. The guiding concept their path to digitization and the
volumes of water, chemicals and of this unit is “not more than application of digital concepts
thermal energy are required. A necessary and result-oriented by following these three
significant portion of these application” for liquid and pragmatic steps:
resources, however, can be energy savings of up to 40%. • Give all things a name. For all
wasted without precise feeding, • The Monfortex Eco Line products, sets and production
monitoring and control. shrinkage solution provides materials a clear ID has to be
The optimized handling of similar energy savings of up to defined, for example, with a bar
thermal energy in particular, is 40% in comparison to code and thus a unique name.
currently a hot topic in the textile traditional padder/cylinder Further, digitizing and connecting
industry and one which offers a dryer solutions. products and the value chain can
great deal of potential. • A basic solution for the only be made possible on the
The latest Monforts introduction of two-way super basis of clear identification.
technologies for enabling stretch into denim carried out in • Measure, registration, measure.
resource savings include: a single processing step. Measure all process relevant

Line configuration of the advanced solution for the introduction of two-way super stretch into denim carried out in a single processing step.

World of Textiles | Europe | 31


INDUSTRY 4.0

information by the use of sensors. New Horizons The Matex Eco Applicator, as an alternative

with Qualitex
to padding, for minimum liquor application,
Install sensors at multiple especially for wet-in-wet solutions.
measuring points along the The consolidation of the
production line. The availability of Monforts Qualitex digital
measuring data allows companies solutions with the latest
to improve processing time and mechanical solution such as
machine ability. the Eco Applicator or Eco Line
• Analyze Data. Connect the can be the basis for the
clearly identified products with efficient implementation of a
their digital specification, their range providing higher
production materials as well their productivity and efficiency.
manufacturing related process The Qualitex offers the
data. Further, connect the different operator more reliability,
sources of data-machines within quicker access and therefore
the production chain. Create the more benefit. The
required communication and IT easy operation by
infrastructures in order to achieve use of the latest
connectivity and to be able to slider and
combine and analyse data with an dashboard functions with
expert system and a pre-adjustable individual adaption to the
recipe data information system. operating states assures faster access to comprehensive recipe
data and therefore enhanced
The Qualitex offers the operator more reliability and quicker access. machine ability.
Through its target-oriented and
integrated digital intranet/internet-
based Cloud solution, the
aforementioned just-in-time
reaction and action can be
achieved to ensure that supplier
and customer will be always
benefit from a retrievable online
information service.

Summary
The significant opportunities
arising from Textile 4.0 and the
Internet of Things require elevated
Through its target-oriented and integrated digital intranet/internet-based Cloud investments, with intranet and
solution, the Qualitex achieves just in time reaction and action. internet being the most important
tools in the future of efficient
corporate management.
We should not, however,
underestimate the numerous
challenges that this
transition entails.
The main sources of the
benefits in respect of productivity,
efficiency and availability have yet
to be defined between supplier
and producer.
Of course, there are already
extremely optimized textile
processes in use which are
executed serially in a well-defined
sequence. These will be further
optimized in the future and open
the route to the introduction of
new production approaches. ●

32 | World of Textiles | Europe |


ARTA

Winning
combinations
for Arta
Arta plant manager

As an accredited supplier to leading Mehmet Kalipçioĝlu

European retail brands, Turkey’s


Arta Tekstil is seeing a programme of
continuous investment over the past
three years now paying solid dividends.
With a monthly production has seen the installation of a new
capacity of around 4 million European-built Monforts Thermex
metres of finished woven fabrics Econtrol dyeing system as well as
per month, Arta employs 3,000 two ten-chamber Monfongs
workers over three shifts daily, Montex stenters and a Monfongs
with 50% of its output exported sanforising unit, all of which have
to key retail customers and the been installed and commissioned
other half produced on a by Istanbul-based Neotek.
commission basis.
The company is situated in Wider range Single process
Çorlu, some 70km west of “In combination with the new One special development Arta has
Istanbul – a city which has Monforts Thermex system, this been involved with in a joint
boomed over the past 30 years, provides us with a far wider project for TÜBITAK – The
with its population having risen range of fabric finishes and Scientific and Technological
from barely 20,000 to over surface effects that we can Research Council of Turkey – has
270,000 people. This has largely achieve compared to our resulted in a fast and economical
been due to a welcoming competitors,” says Arta plant method for applying both reactive
immigration policy and the new manager Mehmet Kalipçioĝlu. dye and a version of pigment dye
textile mills which have emerged “Our dyeing methods include in a single process.
in the past few decades. reactive, sulphur, indanthrene, “Since the washing effects of
Of the 350 textile companies in indigo, pigment and disperse reactive and pigment dyes are far
Çorlu, however, around 250 are dyed fabrics, along with different, there are some colours
estimated to be dyeing and specially-developed in-house you can only get with either, but our
finishing operations, so how, you techniques and special glitter, PU, customers can now achieve
may ask, does a company like pearl and other blade coatings. outstanding new colour shades
Arta distinguish itself? Through combinations of all of after garment washing with this
The answer is through clever these techniques, we are able to process, and different shades or
combinations of processes provide our customers with contrast colours can be combined,”
exploiting its comprehensive highly-differentiated fabrics.” Mr Kalipçioĝlu explains.
dyeing, finishing, coating and Added to these winning The latest Monforts and
digital and rotary printing combinations can be a variety of Monfongs installations, he adds,
technologies to the full. finish effects such as silicone, have resulted in a production
In addition to other wrinkle-free, paper-touch, water increase of over 50%, with a
technologies, the company’s repellent, stain repellent, anti- marked improvement in quality
recent investment programme bacterial, fire-retardancy etc. and reproducibility. ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 33


www.monforts.com

Passing on
the know-how
As the key site for the construction of Monforts finishing
machines, Montex Maschinenfabrik in Austria is currently working
flat out to meet a very busy new order schedule and plays a key
role in finalising the new machines for ITMA exhibitions.

“We have been working very centre of Austria’s Lavant Valley, components, painting and
closely with the Monforts Montex Maschinenfabrik was shipping, along with a well-
research and development team founded by Monforts in 1982 as organised spare parts service.”
in Mönchengladbach, Germany, to an advanced manufacturing hub. The Montex machine shop is
take the latest new ideas through “Our area is known as the equipped with advanced Trumpf
testing and prototyping, in ‘paradise of Carinthia’ due to its laser and CNC cutting machines
readiness for ITMA 2019 and for favourable climate,” says Gert. and presses, with the powder
future series production,” says “Lignite was mined up to a depth coating of exterior panels also
Montex plant manager Gert Hanzl. of 600 metres here until 1968. carried out for rapid turnaround.
“We are fully exploiting the many From the outset of Montex in “The respective electrical switch
new possibilities being offered by 1982, we have specialised in all cabinets for the machines are
Industry 4.0 in the continuous aspects of machine production, delivered just-in-time from
development of design and including high-precision sheet Monforts in Germany according
manufacturing methods.” metal working, laser cutting and to our production schedules,”
Located in St. Stefan, in the welding, the assembly of says Gert.

The Montex Maschinen-


fabrik production site in
St. Stefan, near
Klagenfurt in Austria.

34 | World of Textiles | Europe |


MONTEX

Loading of a wide width machine for


a new Monforts reference customer.

Special machines
While there is standardisation in
series-produced Monforts
machines, Montex is increasingly
called upon to construct tailor
made machines with unique
designs, according to the special
needs of the customers.
“We aim for the best
combination of already-proven
components and carefully-tested
special constructions,” says Gert.
“We are able to handle extremely
large projects, having recently Montex Maschinenfabrik
plant manager Gert Hanzl.
shipped a complete finishing line
to one customer within eight include a complete portfolio of it’s very important that we train
weeks, and we were particularly coating units for virtually all apprentices at the same time, in
pleased with our proven design of applications in textiles. These have order to pass on our know-how
a challenging stenter frame with a been further developed and been and ensure the high standard that
320-degree temperature chamber. adapted to Monforts electrical plc- customers expect from Monforts
We are currently manufacturing control standards and are now systems is maintained going
machines with working widths of available as the Monforts texCoat forward,” he says. “One of the key
5.6 metres and we can produce and Allround units. advantages of being here in the
those with widths of up to seven “The business is currently heart of Europe is the Trial Training
metres, if requested.” running very well and with ITMA System – one of the best training
The core Monforts machine 2019 approaching we are ready systems in the world. It combines
range, including the industry to meet a special challenge,” theoretical instruction in a
standard Montex stenters, along Gert says, emphasising that the vocational school with practical
with relaxation dryers, Thermex loyalty and satisfaction of the training both within the company
dyeing ranges and Montex workforce is of and in training workshops.
Monfortex/Toptex compressive paramount importance. “Established staff also train
shrinking ranges as well as Matex regularly to develop new skills
padders and Eco Applicator Advanced training and everyone is involved at all
minimal coating units, has been “We have employees who have stages of production and trained
significantly expanded with the worked at this site since the to multi-task. This gives us
acquisition of Timatec in 2015, to foundation of Montex Austria, but flexibility and strength.” ●

World of Textiles | Europe | 35


Ready for your
future success
AHEAD OF PROGRESS

Montex stenters
Leading High Tech features
for permanently achieving
best finishing results.
The built-in quality control
is always visible with
Qualitex 800 PLC control.
And with Web-UI*
on your mobile devices.
Ask for details.
We will be pleased

*option
to inform you further.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG


Germany | A member of CHTC Fong’s Group
www.monforts.com

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