Name:

Muhammad Muzammil
Reg.# :
2019-TXE-01
Subject name and code:
Clothing Anthropometry and Pattern Construction (207)
Submission date:
30 April, 2021
Submission person:
Dr. Shahdeen Sardar

University of Engineering and Technology Lahore

FSD Campus

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Table of Contents

Introduction:................................................................................................................................................3
The Basic Dress Foundation:...................................................................................................................3
BASIC BODICE.....................................................................................................................................4
Front bodice draft:...................................................................................................................................4
Back bodice draft:....................................................................................................................................4
Background and Key Concept:................................................................................................................5
Experimental:..............................................................................................................................................6
Material required:....................................................................................................................................6
Methodology:..............................................................................................................................................6
For front bodice:......................................................................................................................................6
For back bodice:......................................................................................................................................6
Result and discussion:.................................................................................................................................7
Conclusion:..................................................................................................................................................7
References:..................................................................................................................................................8

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 Lab # 02
Construction of Basic Bodice Blocks (Back)
Abstract:
Bodice blocks are the part of fabric around the front and back side of the body. These blocks are
identified by different dimensions and shapes of each front and back block. These are used to make the
front and back sides of different types of fabric for example shirt, blouse, jacket or coat etc. Different
body measurements have been taken using anthropometry techniques. The measurements of the bodice
block include the measurement of center length, Full length, Shoulder slope, bust depth, bust span and
side length etc. Different instruments are used to produce a bodice blocks like French curve, Japanese
scale and measuring tape etc. Result of this experiment include different bodies block measurements.

Introduction:
The Basic Dress Foundation:
Beginning patternmaking starts with basic dress foundation draft. All the key dimensions are present in
dress and is presented by the basic pattern set. Patternmaking, fit, and design are based on basic dress.
The basic dress consists of five distinct parts: a front and back bodice, a front and back skirt that hang
straight from the hip, and slim full-length sleeves. There is a series of seams that are directed toward the
figure’s bulges—the bust, abdomen, buttocks, shoulder blades, and elbows. These seams support the fit of
the garment and bridge the hollow areas. The perfect garment has properties that it fit comfortably with
sufficient ease and in perfect balance and harmony with the balance of the model’s stance [ CITATION
HEL10 \l 1033 ].

Figure 1

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BASIC BODICE
These are one of the fundamental blocks, used for making any top-body garment type. Shirts, jackets,
coats, and even item such as dresses and corsets are based on these blocks[ CITATION Des19 \l 1033 ].

Figure 2 (Women’s wear bodice)

Figure 3 (Men’s wear bodice) Figure 4 (Children’s wear bodice)

Front bodice draft:

The measurement of front part of different types of garments like shirt, jacket and coat etc. These
measurements include center length, full length, shoulder slope, bust depth, across shoulder, across chest,
shoulder length, bust arc, waist arc and dart placement.

Figure 5

Back bodice draft:

The measurement of back part of different types of garments like shirt, jacket and coat. These
measurements include center length, full length, shoulder slope, back neck, across shoulder, across back,
back arc, waist arc, dart placement.

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 Figure 6

Background and Key Concept:

In historical usage, particularly in Victorian and early 20th century fashion, a bodice (in earlier
sources, body) indicates the upper part of a dress that was constructed in two parts (i.e., with
separate skirt and bodice, such as a ballet tutu), but of matching or coordinating fabric with the
intention of wearing the two parts as a unit. In dressmaking, the term waist (sometimes given as
"dress waist" to distinguish it from a shirtwaist) was also used. During wear, the parts might be
connected by hooks and eyes. This construction was standard for fashionable garments from the
18th century until the late 19th century, and had the advantages of allowing a voluminous skirt to
be paired with a close-fitting bodice, and of allowing two or more bodices to be worn with the
same skirt (e.g., a high-necked bodice and a low-necked bodice allowed the same skirt to serve
for both daywear and evening wear). One-piece construction became more common after 1900
due to the trend for looser, more simply-constructed clothing with narrower skirts.
In modern usage, bodice typically refers to an upper garment that has removable sleeves or no
sleeves, often low-cut, worn in Europe from the 16th century to the 18th century, either over a
corset or in lieu of one. To achieve a fashionable shape and support the bust, the bodice was
frequently stiffened with bents (a type of reed), or whalebone. The bodice was different from the
corset of the time because it was intended to be worn over the other garments. In earlier periods,
bodices and corsets were laced in spiral fashion, with one continuous lace. In later periods, both
were laced like the modern tennis shoe, with eyelets facing one another. This was more
convenient for women who had to dress themselves.
One mid-19th-century style included the Agnes Sorel bodice, named after 15th-century royal
mistress Agnes Sorel. This style was a day wear bodice, with a square cut neckline that had a
high front and back and bishop sleeves[ CITATION Wik181 \l 1033 ].

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Experimental:
Material required:
 A4 paper sheet  Pencil
 French curve  Eraser
 Japanese scale  Sharpener

Methodology:
For front bodice:
 Line was drawn from A to B = Full length of 16 7/8 inch, plus 1/8 inch.
 Line was drawn from A to C = Across shoulder of 7 1/2 inch, less 1/8 inch. Line Squared 3 inch from C.
• Line was drawn from B to D = Center front length of 14/8 inch. Marked and squared out 4 inches.
 Line was drawn from B to E = Bust arc of 9 1/2 inch, plus 1/4 inch. Squared out a line from B, and then
squared up to 11inch from E.
 Line was drawn from B to G = Shoulder slope of 17 1/16 inch, plus 1/8 inch.
 Line was drawn from G to H = Bust depth 9 1/8 inch.
 Line was drawn from G to I = Shoulder length of 5 1/8 inch. Squared it down from I to intersect with D
line.
 Line was drawn from J to K = Bust span of 3 5/8 inch, plus 1/4 inch. Squared it from J at center front
through H to K.
 Line was drawn from D to L = One-half of D to J.
 Line was drawn from L to M = Across chest of 6 1/2 inch, plus 1/4 inch. Squared a guideline up and down
from M.
 Line was drawn from B to F = Dart placement of 3 inch. Squared down 3/16 inch from F.
 Line was drawn from I to N = New strap of 17 inches, plus 1/8 and from I to intersect E line.
 Line was drawn from N to O = Side length of 1 1/4 inch and marked a point at 1 1/4 inch out from N.
 A line O to P = Side length line was directed to P, and ended when equal to N to O. Line drawn from P to
F.
 Line was drawn from P to Q = Waist arc 6 ½ inch, plus 1/4inch ease, less than B to F.
 Line was drawn K to F and measure. Dart leg drawn from K through Q equal to K to F. Labelled R.
 Centered a point 5/8 inch from bust point. Redrawn the dart legs from this point to F and R.
 Slight curve lines were drawn from B to F and R to P.
 Armhole curve was drawn with rule touching G, M, and square line.
 Neck curve drawn from I to D passing inside the angle line by 1/8 inch.

For back bodice:

 Line was drawn from A to B = Full length of 16 3/4 inch.

 Line was drawn from A to C = Across shoulder of 7 3/4 inch. Squared 3 inch down from C.
 Line was drawn from B to D = Center back length of 16 1/4 inch. Marked and squared out 4 inches.
 Line was drawn from B to E = Back arc of 8 1/8 inch, plus 3/4 inch. Squared it up from E.
 Line was drawn from A to F = Back neck of 2 5/8 inch, plus 1/8 inch.
 Line was drawn from B to G = Shoulder slope of 16 5/16 inch, plus 1/8 inch.
 Line was drawn from F to H = Shoulder length of 5 1/8 inch, plus 1/2 inch. Line may pass G. Squared it
down from F to D line.
 Line was drawn from B to I = Dart placement of 3 inch.
 Line was drawn from B to J = Waist arc of 6 1/8, plus dart intake of 1 1/2" and 1/4" (ease).
 Line was drawn from I to K = Dart intake.

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  Center was marked and labelled L.
 Line was drawn from J to M = Square down of 3/16 inch.
 Line was drawn from M to N = Side length of 8 1/8 inch.
 Line was drawn from L to O = Squared up from L 1 inch less than M to N.
 Dart legs were drawn from O of 1/8 inch past I and K.
 Slightly curved lines were drawn from K to M and from B to I.
 Line was drawn from F to P = One-half of F to H.
 Line was drawn from P to Q = Drawn a 3-inch line in the direction of point O (indicated by broken line).
 Line was drawn from P to R = 1/4 inch.
 Dart leg was drawn from Q of 1/8 inch past R and connected to F. Marked 1/4 inch from P. Other dart leg
was drawn from Q equal to dart leg Q–R, and connected to H.
 Line was drawn from D to S = One-fourth of D to B.
 Line was drawn from S to T = Across back 6 3/4 inch, plus 1/4 inch.
 Armhole was drawn with the French curve touching H, T, and N. The curve should touch square line.
 A 3/8-inch angle line was drawn from the corner.
 Neckline was drawn from F, angle line and ended close to D.

Result and discussion:

Figure 7 Figure 8

These front and back bodices are the mirror image of there other sides. A seam allowance is also added in
the pattern having measurement of 1cm at sides and shoulders and 2cm at bottom and 0.5cm at shoulder
and neck hole.

Conclusion:
Two basic bodices are sketched using different instruments and tools. These bodices have measurement
of children garment.

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References:

[1] H. JOSEPH-ARMSTRONG, Pattrenmaking for Fashion Design, Los Angeles: R.R.

Donnelley/Willard, 2010.

[2] "Designbylot13," [Online]. Available: https://designbylot13.weebly.com/introduction-to-pattern-

making.html. [Accessed 09 02 2019].

[3] "Wikipedia," 17 09 2018. [Online]. Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice. [Accessed 09 02

2019].

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