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Transnationalism and Regional Cults: Pnina Werbner
Transnationalism and Regional Cults: Pnina Werbner
Transnationalism and Regional Cults: Pnina Werbner
Pnina Werbner
1
Christian Troll, Muslim Shrines in India: Their Character, History and Significance (Delhi:
Oxford University Press, 1989); Pnina Werbner and Helene Basu (eds), Embodying Charisma:
Modernity, Locality and the Performance of Emotion in Sufi Cults (London: Routledge, 1998).
282
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T R AN S NA T I O N A L I SM A N D R EG I O N A L CU L T S 283
key terms
Broadly speaking, charting the differences and similarities between Sufi orders
as embodied traditions requires attention beyond mystical-philosophical and
ethical ideas, to the ritual performances and religious organisational patterns
that shape Sufi orders and cults in widely separated locations. We need, in other
words, to seek to comparatively understand four interrelated symbolic com-
plexes (see Figure 12.1): first, the sacred division of labour – by this I mean the
ritual roles that perpetuate and reproduce the cult; second, the sacred exchanges
between places and persons, often across great distances; third, the sacred
2
P. Werbner, “Sufi Regional Cults in South Asia and Indonesia: Towards a Comparative
Analysis”, Yearbook of the Sociology of Islam No 8: Dimensions of Locality: Muslim Saints,
Their Place and Space, edited by Georg Stauth and Samuli Schielke (Lit Verlag, 2008).
3
P. Werbner, “Sufi Regional Cults in South Asia and Indonesia”.
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284 P N I NA W E R BN E R
* Sacred division of labour – the ritual roles that reproduce the cult
* Sacred exchanges between places and persons across distance
* The sacred region, its catchment areas and sanctified central places
* Sacred indexical events – the rituals that co-ordinate and revitalise cult organisation
and management
region, its catchment area and the sanctified central places that shape it; and
fourth, the sacred indexical events – the rituals – that co-ordinate and revitalise
organisational and symbolic unities and enable managerial and logistical plan-
ning and decision-making. Comparison requires that we examine the way in
which these four dimensions of ritual sanctification and performance are linked
in Sufi orders, and are embedded in a particular symbolic logic and local
environment.
I begin with an example from my own research. The Sufi cult I studied in
Pakistan4 was in many senses remarkably similar organisationally to other,
non-Muslim regional cults and pilgrimage systems elsewhere.5 It also fitted
the model of Sufi orders or cults analysed by Trimingham,6 which was
mainly based on his extensive knowledge of Sufi orders in the Middle East
and Africa.
During his lifetime, Zindapir, founder of the Sufi order of the saint
I studied, established a lodge that extended globally: to Britain and Europe,
the Middle East and even South Africa. Emerging as a saint during the 1940s,
in the dying days of Empire, Zindapir began his career as an army tailor
contractor for the seventh Baluch Regiment, and his cult membership
expanded through the recruitment of state employees, in this case soldiers
and army personnel. These in turn recruited members of their families and,
when they retired to civilian life, their co-villagers or townsmen. The cult
expanded further as these soldiers went to work as labour migrants in the Gulf
or in Britain. Disciples were also recruited from among the stream of suppli-
cants coming to the lodge to seek blessings and remedies for their afflictions
from the saint, and from among casual visitors curious to see the saint and
lodge itself, a place renowned for its beauty. Some disciples joined the cult
4
P. Werbner, Pilgrims of Love: the Anthropology of a Global Sufi Cult (London: Hurst
Publishers, 2003).
5
R. Werbner, “Introduction” in Regional Cults, ed. Richard Werbner (London and New York:
Academic Press, 1977).
6
J. S. Trimingham, The Sufi Orders of Islam (Oxford: Oxford University Press at the Clarendon
Press, 1971).
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T R AN S NA T I O N A L I SM A N D R EG I O N A L CU L T S 285
Branch
CULT
CENTRE
Key:
after meeting Zindapir or his vicegerents on the annual Hajj to Mecca. Such
recruitment chains form network clusters whose members share either occu-
pational or geographical proximity (or both).
Zindapir’s disciples met regularly to perform dhikr at the lodge branches of
the order, located throughout Pakistan. They gathered at the central lodge of
Zindapir weekly, monthly, and, in most cases, annually, at the ‘urs, the three-
day ritual festival commemorating the mystical “marriage” of a deceased saint
with God. Some pilgrims arrived for the festival as individuals, but most came
in convoys (qafilas) of trucks and buses from established branches, travelling
in some cases for over 24 hours. The sacred exchange at the cult centre was
extensive: the groups arrived bearing with them sacrificial offerings of grain,
butter and animals. They returned bearing gifts from the saint – gowns or
caps, and, in some instances, the sacred soil of the lodge itself (see Figure 12.2).
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286 P N I NA W E R BN E R
During their three-day stay at the ‘urs, all participants were fed and nurtured
by the saint himself. The hundreds of beasts sacrificed, the hundreds of
thousands of baked chappatis and nans, the enormous cauldrons of sweet
and pilau rice distributed during the ‘urs, fed some 30,000 people over three
days – a major logistical challenge. But the saint also feeds pilgrims to the
lodge throughout the year, in what may be conceived of as a form of perpetual
sacrifice. The lodge itself was built using voluntary labour in the name of God,
usually in the weeks preceding the annual ‘urs. The crowds depart following
the final du‘a, the supplicatory prayer enunciated by the saint himself on
behalf of the whole community.
This annual celebration at a saint’s lodge or shrine is known in South Asia as
the ‘urs. In North Africa it is known as mawlīd. It commemorates the death/
rebirth of a saint, the moment of his unification or marriage with Allah. The ‘urs
is the organisational hub of Sufi saints’ cults. The festival gathers together
individual supplicants and pilgrims alongside organised groups of devotees
and disciples who visit the festival annually and cultivate a special relationship
to the saint and the Sufi tarīqa or order he founded. These groups or congre-
gations often travel great distances to attend the annual ritual. They frequently
come from different linguistic, ethnic and even religious groups. Although the
celebration marks the high point of the year, it cannot be understood apart from
the more enduring links that constitute the organisation of the order.
7
R. Werbner, “Introduction”.
8
Ibid., XI.
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T R AN S NA T I O N A L I SM A N D R EG I O N A L CU L T S 287
Like other regional cults, Sufi cults are very often trans-regional, trans-
national, and trans-ethnic. Different Sufi cults interpenetrate with one
another rather than generating contiguous, bounded territories. They leap-
frog across major political and ethnic boundaries, creating their own sacred
topographies and flows of goods and people. These override, rather than
being congruent with, the political boundaries and subdivisions of nations,
ethnic groups, or provinces.9 But, unlike the networks created by Salafi
groups, connections across distance are made through collective rituals and
saintly veneration.
Clearly the need is to recognise these trans-local networks. It is equally
important to analyse the political and historical context in which they oper-
ate, and which changes over time. But just as one cannot study the order or
cult in isolation, adopting a naïve holistic stance,10 so too one cannot assume
that different domains (ritual, political, economic) underwrite each other, so
that ritual and belief become mere representations of political divisions or
economic interests.11 In Sufi regional cults in Pakistan, the symbolic order cuts
across political divisions and remains in tension with the postcolonial and
capitalist economies of modern-day Pakistan, and even more so in post-
imperial Britain. Pakistani saints are often highly critical of politicians and
‘ulama (religious clerics). This is true elsewhere as well, as Villalon documents
in his fine analysis of the intricate, historically evolving political-cum-
economic relationships between Sufi orders (turuq, tarīqa) such as the
_ _
Mourides or Tījāniyya and political authorities in Senegal.12
Regional cult analysis aims to disclose hidden structural interdependencies
and ruptures between different domains of action: economic, ritual, political.
Like other regional cults, Sufi regional or trans-regional cults are both linked
to centres of political power and in tension with them. Various historical
studies have highlighted the pragmatic tendencies of Sufis in South Asia
which have enabled Sufi saints to accommodate a variety of different political
regimes and circumstances, over many centuries of imperial and postcolonial
rule. The relationship between the political centre and the sacred centre is a
9
R. Werbner, “Introduction”, XI.
10
Ibid., IX
11
Ibid., XVIII. Such correspondence theories draw on simplistic Durkheimian or Marxist
approaches. Werbner also cites Robertson Smith’s theory of sacrifice among the Semites as
an example.
12
Leonardo A. Villalón, “Sufi Modernities in Contemporary Senegal: Religious Dynamics
between the Local and the Global”, in Martin van Bruinnessen and Julia Day Howell (eds),
Sufism and the “Modern” in Islam. (London: I.B. Taurus, 2007), 172–191; see also Donal
B. Cruise O’Brien, The Mourides of Senegal: the Political and Economic Organization of an
Islamic Brotherhood (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1971).
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288 P N I NA W E R BN E R
13
Trimingham, The Sufi Orders of Islam, 179.
14
Ibid., 173–174, 179.
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T R AN S NA T I O N A L I SM A N D R EG I O N A L CU L T S 289
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290 P N I NA W E R BN E R
own distinctive litanies.17 The tents are located in the same spot, year after
year.18 The mulid is an occasion when “all members and officers and supposed
to greet the shaikh and renew their fealty”.19 This is also a time when donations
are collected for the tarīqa, “one of the few occasions for the common member
_
to meet the leader of his tarīqa face to face and receive baraka directly
_
from him, by shaking hands, rather than indirectly through the proxy of the
khalifas”.20 The festival, in other words, encompasses multiple shaykhs who
lead their own tarīqas, but are all members of Ah.madiyya Sufi order. They
_
come together on the last day of the festival in a big procession, the mawkib al-
khalīfa. It is led by the cavalry, followed by the Sufi “corporations” who carry
their multicoloured banners, representing different tarīqas and places.21 They
_
are followed by Sayyid al-Badawī’s khalīfa riding on a fine Arabian horse.22
Behind him are two camels in gold and red, and finally a motley crowd of
wagons and people. This is the culmination of the festival. Reeves’ detailed
account highlights both the spatial separations and focused gatherings of
regional tarīqa during the festival and the final coming together in a single
_
procession, unifying this complex, federated organisation.
Ideologically, Sufi saints are conceived of in South Asia as tamers of the
wilderness for human cultivation. In this they seem to differ from reformists,
even those who practise ritual and mystical meditation such as the Deobandis.
The question of the relation with the natural environment is thus a key trope
17
Trimingham, The Sufi Orders of Islam, 130.
18
Ibid., 122, 124–125.
19
Ibid., 128.
20
Ibid., 129.
21
Ibid.,132.
22
Ibid., 133.
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T R AN S NA T I O N A L I SM A N D R EG I O N A L CU L T S 291
in Sufi orders, which exists elsewhere as well. Ansari has shown that saints
contributed to the reorganisation of canal-based agriculture in Sindh towards
the end of the nineteenth century, while in Bengal, they were at the vanguard
of new rice cultivation.23
Inclusivity is a key feature of South Asian Sufi cults. There are cases, as
Mark Gaborieau documents, in which saints become patron saints of a
particular occupational group,24 but these are relatively rare. Historically,
Sufis appear to have been instrumental in uniting groups across tribal or
caste divisions. Rather than exclusivity, Saiyed echoes other scholars when he
contends that it is through Sufi shrines that “the subcontinent saw the best
part of Hindu-Muslim integration”, and that it was “the personal and spiritual
influence of various saints that . . . allowed for the peaceful coexistence of the
two communities for several centuries on the Indian subcontinent”.25
The catchment areas – the sacred dominions – of Sufi regional cults are
importantly marked by their instability and by the fluctuating range of
devotees drawn to them. Elizabeth Mann reports on a minor shrine which
emerged in Aligarh in the 1940s and, over a short period, challenged and
greatly exceeded in popularity the shrine of Shāh Jamāl, a long established
Chishtī saint. The Sufi saint and world renouncer who revitalised the minor
shrine lived, she argues, “within living memory, [and] stories of miraculous
events are fresh in the minds of devotees who witnessed them at first hand”.26
Since his death in the 1960s, intensive building activities have greatly
expanded the shrine.
Quite distinct from the fluctuating fortunes of medium-level shrines of this
type are the universally venerated great shrines of the Indian subcontinent such
as those of Mu‘in al-Dīn Chishtī of Ajmer or Data Ganj Baksh of Lahore. These
are visited by millions. Until quite recently I had assumed that such ancient
shrines were not comparable to Zindapīr’s regional cult, in the sense that they
did not have a regional cult structure – that is, they did not have specific
groups of devotees who arrive in organised pilgrimage groups for the ‘urs at
these centres. Recent work on Sehwan Sharīf, an ancient thirteenth-century
23
Sarah F. D. Ansari, Sufi Saints and State Power: the Pirs of Sind, 1843–1947 (Cambridge:
University Press, 1992); Richard W. Eaton, The Rise of Islam and the Bengal Frontier,
1204–1760 (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1993).
24
Marc Gaborieau, “The Cult of Saints among the Muslims of Nepal and Northern India”, in
Stephen Wilson (ed.) Saints and their Cults: Studies in Religious Sociology, Folklore and
History (Cambridge: University Press, 1983), 302–303.
25
A. R. Saiyed, “Saints and Dargahs in the Indian Subcontinent: A Review”, in Troll (ed.)
Muslim Shrines in India, 242.
26
Elizabeth A. Mann, “Religion, Money and Status: Competition for Resources at the Shrine of
Shah Jamal, Aligarh”, in Troll (ed.) Muslim Shrines in India, 163.
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292 P N I NA W E R BN E R
Sufi shrine where Had.rat La‘l Shāhbāz Qalandar is said to be buried, by Michel
Boivin and his colleagues at the EHESS, and by Juergen Wasim Frembgen, a
scholar of Pakistan based in Munich, indicated that I was wrong. Groups,
known as Jhule Lal sangats, annually travel in qafilas to Sehwan Sharīf shrine
for the ritual festival.27 Indeed, many of these groups seem to be newly formed,
as the shrine has gained popularity. In other words, Sehwan Sharīf, founded in
the thirteenth century and considered as a regional cult, has expanded in the
late twentieth century. Similarly, in Bosnia, David Henig shows that newly
formed popular dervish groups whose religious expression was repressed in
socialist Yugoslav, seek continuity and authenticity by linking themselves to a
sheikh of a central tekke of the Rifā’ī order in Albania, thus creating an
emergent trans-regional cult by expanding centripetally.28
Like the shrine of Sayyid Ah.mad al-Badawī in Egypt, the ancient shrine of
Bābā Fārid, a twelve century Chishtī shaykh at Pak Pattan, also has contem-
porary groups of devotees, known as jamā‘ats, visiting it annually.29 This
indicates that Zindapīr’s cult was not unusual and that regional cult organ-
isation, consisting of a cult centre and branches affiliated to it, continues –
sometimes for hundreds of years, with its composition fluctuating. At the
other extreme are shrines of minor pīrs with restricted local village followings,
some of whom may even be nameless, as Lukas Werth has shown.30
The bonds of spirit between disciples of a single Sufi saint often consolidate
and mediate birādarī affinal, lineal or village ties; but they may also form the
basis for new friendships forged away from home, in the absence of family or
neighbourhood during labour migration, and they may introduce parochial
villagers to the glories of shrines located well beyond their district and even
province. In such cases, being a disciple comes to acquire many new and
complex meanings. This is true for the devotees of the living saint I studied,
Zindapir, and his regional cult. To explain the cult’s vast catchment area, we
need to look, as already mentioned, to its genesis in relations between soldiers,
labour migrants and city dwellers living away from their village homes, and
their continued ties to their rural communities. It is thus the intersection
27
Juergen Frembgen, “Qalandar Networks”. Unpublished paper, 2009.
28
David Henig, “Tracing Creative Moments: Towards the Emergence of Trans-Local Dervish
Cults in Bosnia-Herzegovina”, Focaal 68, 2014, 1.
29
A study of Nagore Sharif by Saheb also refers to visiting groups as Jama‘ats. See S. A. A. Saheb,
“A ‘Festival of Flags’: Hindu-Muslim Devotion and the Sacralising of Localism at the Shrine
of Nagore-e-Sharif”, in Werbner and Basu (eds), Embodying Charisma, 55–76.
30
Lukas Werth, “‘The Saint Who Disappeared’: Saints of the Wilderness in Pakistani Village
Shrines”, in Werbner and Basu (eds), “Introduction: the Embodiment of Charisma”, in
Embodying Charisma.
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T R AN S NA T I O N A L I SM A N D R EG I O N A L CU L T S 293
between labour migration and village or urban roots which explains the
spatial patterning of the shaykh’s sacred dominion and the reach of his cult.
During his lifetime Zindapir was, above all, an army saint. His career
started as a tailor contractor in the army, where his early circle of companions
was forged. Sufi Sahib, who created his own regional cult centred in
Birmingham, was one of these companions. Rab Nawaz, one of his trusted
khalīfas, told me that until white hairs appeared in the shaykh’s beard, he and
all the khulāfā, the deputies or messengers, wore khaki. It was only when his
beard turned white that they began to wear white gowns. Even after becoming
a practising faqīr, Zindapir spent time in Abbotabad not far from the army
base where he had worked, and he continued to recruit army followers to be
his disciples. Ghamkol Sharif, the lodge he founded when he left Abbotabad,
is located near his natal village and only a few miles from Kohat, a large
British garrison town or cantonment which was taken over by the Pakistan
army at Independence. The lodge’s reputation as a place of local beauty
attracts a constant stream of curious visitors. Many of his murīds, – that is,
disciples – told me how they first visited the lodge while stationed in Kohat.
On seeing the lodge, they were overwhelmed by its gloriousness and the
spirituality (rūh.aniyat) of its shaikh. Later, they became his disciples.
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294 P N I NA W E R BN E R
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T R AN S NA T I O N A L I SM A N D R EG I O N A L CU L T S 295
31
R. Werbner, “Introduction”, 202.
32
As Evans Pritchard, for example, showed for the Sanusiya. E. E. Evans-Pritchard, The Sanusi
of Cyrenaica (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1937/1949).
33
Edward B. Reeves, The Hidden Government: Ritual, Clientelism, and Legitimation in
Northern Egypt (Salt Lake City: University of Utah Press, 1990).
34
Stephen Golub and Jamie Hansen-Lewis, “Informal Trading Networks in West Africa: The
Mourides of Senegal/Gambia and the Yoruba of Benin/Nigeria”, in Nancy Benjamin and
Aly Mbaye (eds), The Informal Sector in Francophone Africa: Firm Size, Productivity and
Institutions (Washington, DC: the World Bank, 2012), 175–176.
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296 P N I NA W E R BN E R
the charisma of a living saint is constructed during his lifetime and underpins
his authority requires a comparative analysis of the poetics of travelling
theories – that is, the way that such myths tell, simultaneously, both a local
and a global tale about Sufi mystical power everywhere, and the settlement of
Sufis in virgin, barren or idolatrous lands, such as the lodge valley in Pakistan
or industrial towns in Britain. Each Sufi cult is distinctive and embedded in a
local cultural context. But, against a view of the radical plurality of Islam
proposed, for example, by Geertz,35 I propose that Sufism everywhere shares
the same deep structural logic of ideas. These shape the ecological and cultural
habitat and local habitus wherever Sufi saints settle. Such beliefs persist
despite internal inconsistencies and evidence to the contrary, and remain
powerfully compelling. At this point, then, I turn to ideology in order to
return back later to ritual. As I have argued elsewhere,36 legends about
powerful Sufis from Indonesia and Morocco – which Geertz argues exemplify
the contrastive localism of Islam – contain, in essence, the same fable or plot:
(1) initiation through a physical and mental ordeal overcome; (2) the achieve-
ment of innate and instantaneous divine knowledge; (3) the triumphant
encounter with temporal authority (see Figure 12.4). The same legends can
be found in ‘Attār’s Memorial of Saints, which records the lives of the early
__
saints of Baghdad. What differs are merely the ecological and historical
details: a flowing river and exemplary centre in Indonesia, desert sands and
a fortress town in Morocco, the Baluch Regiment, an anti-colonial brigand’s
valley, or corrupt politicians in Pakistan. A single paradigmatic underlying
symbolic logic upholds this legendary corpus, while its local, familiar concrete
details – regiments, rivers and desert sands – embody this logic and suffuse it
with axiomatic authority. But the symbolic structure underlying this common
sense is as unitary as it is inexorable.
35
Clifford Geertz, Islam Observed (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1968).
36
P. Werbner, “Sufi Regional Cults in South Asia and Indonesia”.
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T R AN S NA T I O N A L I SM A N D R EG I O N A L CU L T S 297
37
Ernest Gellner, Muslim Society (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1981), 10.
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298 P N I NA W E R BN E R
same time, in his unique qualities of perfection, virtue and world renunciation,
the Sufi saint endows God’s abstract universalism with a specific uniqueness to
which his followers reach out. They love the saint as they seek a distant and
fearful God’s grace and blessing through his mediation. The saint’s specificity
generates a trans-national and regional cult. The universalism inherent in the
idea of an abstract, universal God draws persons beyond the local community
and reaches out to people of different classes, genders, ages, languages, and
regions everywhere. The saint is a universal God’s vicegerent on earth. The
sacred centre and sub-centres form a unique cult organisation, but the ideas and
beliefs that animate them are universalist and shared across many such regional
cults. Beyond ideology, to understand how such cults reproduce and perpetuate
themselves in time and space as viable organisations we need to understand
both the economy and the moral economy of the cult.
38
Victor Turner, “Pilgrimages as Social Processes”, in Dramas, Fields, and Metaphors (Cornell:
Cornell University Press, 1974).
39
E.g. John Eade and Michael J. Sallnow, “Introduction”, in Contesting the Sacred: The
Anthropology of Christian Pilgrimage (London: Routledge, 1991).
40
Ann G. Gold, Fruitful Journeys: the Ways of Rajasthani Pilgrims (Berkeley: University of
California Press, 1988)
41
Ian Reader, Making Pilgrimages: Meaning and Practice in Shikoku (Honolulu: University of
Hawai’i Press, 2006).
42
Michael J. Sallnow, Pilgrims of the Andes: Regional Cults in Cusco (Washington, DC:
Smithsonian Institution Press, 1987).
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T R AN S NA T I O N A L I SM A N D R EG I O N A L CU L T S 299
and elsewhere. Pilgrims move as groups, but they can also follow the pilgrim-
age route as individuals. On the whole, Sufi pilgrimage routes are not so
complex with few stations on the way, but most Sufi pilgrimages are cyclical
and annual, not a once-in-a-lifetime project. Whatever the case, from a
comparative perspective the routes, circuits and networks which pilgrimage
and visitation establish are crucial for an appreciation of the organisational
dimensions of Sufi cults as regional cults.
concluding remarks
To conclude this essay I want to defend the need to understand the way that
Sufi cults are mapped in space and managed as viable organisations, as a
precondition for a fuller understanding of the more experiential dimensions
of Sufism. The experience of communitas at pilgrimage centres, the sense of
ethical voluntarism and the bonds of friendship between disciples, forged by
shared devotion to particular places, away from the centres of temporal
power, as well as their shared love for the saint, are all made possible by the
complex organisation of Sufi orders as regional cults. True, there are small
Sufi groups that meet to perform dhikr and there are old shrines that are
managed by the state in Pakistan and no longer have distant branches and
sub-branches, but the true sense of love and camaraderie comes from mem-
bership in a specific but deterritorialised organisation. Jurgen Frembgen has
recently been studying the shrine of La‘l Shāhbāz Qalandar in Sehwan in Sind,
a thirteenth-century shrine of a saint who preached peace between Hindus
and Muslims, and which, despite its antiquity, appears nevertheless as men-
tioned to have sustained a regional cult organisation.43 Its disciples are
qalandar, dervishes who often grow their hair wild and are mendicants or
faqīrs. They form sangats (devotional associations) thousands of miles away
from the shrine, in Lahore and other parts of the Punjab, some focusing on a
living shaykh. The fellow-disciples travel together in organised groups or
qafilas by train to the shrine. Using posters as his primary source, Frembgen
shows that devotional group membership cuts across caste and occupational
divisions.44 It is also inclusive of Sunni and Shi‘a, though the buried saint was
a Shi‘a and so too is the shrine management. At the shrine, during the ‘urs
devotees dance a devotional dance known as dhammal, which involves a
43
Frembgen, At the Shrine of the Red Sufi: Five Days and Nights on Pilgrimage in Pakistan
(Karachi: Oxford University Press, 2011).
44
Frembgen, “From Popular Devotion to Mass Event: Placards Advertising the Pilgrimage to
the Sufi Saint Lal Shahbaz Qalandar in Sehwan Sharif (Sindh/Pakistan)”. Unpublished paper,
2009.
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300 P N I NA W E R BN E R
frenzied and ecstatic swirl of the head and body. This is part of a special ritual
that is performed at the rhythmic beat of the dhole (a big barrel-shaped
drum), some of which are of giant size, that are placed in the courtyard of
the shrine.45 Bells, gongs, cymbals and horns make a thunderous din, and the
dervishes, clad in long robes, beads, bracelets and coloured head-bands, whirl
faster and faster in a hypnotic trance, until with a final deafening scream they
run wildly through the doors of the shrine to the courtyard beyond. Frembgen
reports that these devotees come from all over Pakistan. They make their way,
as mentioned, to the shrine in groups and convoys, to arrive in time for the
annual festival. They meet regularly with one another at the places where they
usually live. This aspect of shrine organisation has barely been touched upon,
despite the antiquity of the shrine.
45
See Frembgen, Nocturnal Music in the Land of the Sufis: Unheard Pakistan (Karachi: Oxford
University Press, 2012.
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