Investigation of Production & Quality Practices in Textile

and Garments Industry

Muhammad Mohsin Javed

BME163020
Madni Zamir Muhammad Irfan
BME163021
Abdullah Kaleem
BME163025
A Project Report submitted to the
DEPARTMENT OF MECHANICAL ENGINEERING
in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of
BACHELORS OF SCIENCE IN MECHANICAL ENGINEERING
Submitted to: Dr. Taiba Zahid
Faculty of Engineering
Capital University of Science & Technology,
Islamabad
May, 2020
 DECLARATION

It is declared that this is an original piece of my own work, except where otherwise acknowledged
in text and references. This work has not been submitted in any form for another degree or diploma at any
university or other institution for tertiary education and shall not be submitted by me in future for obtaining
any degree from this or any other University or Institution.

Muhammad Mohsin Javed

BME163020
Madni Zamir Muhammad Irfan
BME163021
Abdullah Kaleem
BME163025

(May 2020)
ABSTRACT
The itextile iand iclothing iindustry iforms ia isignificant imanufacturing ibase iof imany ideveloping icountries.
iPakistan ihas ia istrong ilegacy iand isignificant icapacities iin ithis isector. iThe isector iis ia imajor iemployer iand

icontributes isignificantly ito iexports. iThe itextiles iindustry iprovides iinput ito ithe iclothing i(or iapparel)

iindustry, iproviding istrong ivertical ilinkages. iThe iclothing iindustry iis ilabor-intensive iand iit iprovides

iemployment ito ithose iwith isimple iskills, iincluding iwomen. iThe imass iproduction isegment ifocus ion ilow-

cost, istandard iproducts iand iat ithe ilower-end iit imay ialso ioutsource ito ihousehold iproduction. iThe ihigh
ifashion isegment iof ithis iindustry iis imore itechnology-intensive iand iprovides iopportunity ifor iinnovation iand

ivalue iaddition. iThis isegment iis ialso ibetter-paid. iThe ihigh ifashion isegment ifocuses ion idynamics iof

iconsumer itastes iand ipreferences. iThe iclothing iindustry irequires irelatively ilow iinvestment iand ihence ihas

ibeen ifavored iby ipoor icountries. iIhsan iYosuf itextile iindustry iin iFaisalabad iis iconsidered ias ione iof ithe

igrowing iindustries ioffers iits iinternational ibuyers, ithe iultimate isolution ifor isourcing iexcellent iquality

iTextiles, iyarn, igrey ifabric, imade iups ifrom iPakistan. iIts ivalued iexpertise iand iexperience iin isourcing iand

itechnical ifields ihave ihelped ius igain ian iin-depth iunderstanding iof itextile. iIn ithis iproject iwe iare igoing ito

ivisualize ithe itechniques iand itools ifor iTQM, iperform ianalysis ion ithe iprocess iand iproduct iquality iand

ianalyze ithe iquality imanagement ipractices iof ithe ifirm iin icontext iof iPakistani ienvironment iand istudy ithe

ichallenges ifaced.
Table of Contents
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................................................ 8
COMPANY STRUCTURE .......................................................................................................................... 8
DEPARTMENTS ......................................................................................................................................... 9
Back process ............................................................................................................................................. 9
Production ................................................................................................................................................. 9
Maintenance .............................................................................................................................................. 9
Admin ....................................................................................................................................................... 9
Leads by department Managers ................................................................................................................ 9
CHAPTER 2
PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL OF THE COMPANY .......................................................... 10
Production planning system: ................................................................................................................... 10
Production planning and control (PPC) in garment industry .................................................................. 12
Planning stage ......................................................................................................................................... 13
FLOW CHART OF THE PRODUCTION PROCESS AND SUPPLY CHAIN OF THE COMPANY .... 14
Scheduling techniques ............................................................................................................................ 14
Forwardjscheduling................................................................................................................................. 14
Backwardascheduling ............................................................................................................................. 15
Flow chart ............................................................................................................................................... 16
Processes ................................................................................................................................................. 17
Preparatory Process ............................................................................................................................. 17
Spinning .............................................................................................................................................. 17
Weaving .............................................................................................................................................. 17
Finishing ............................................................................................................................................. 17
SUPPLY CHAIN ........................................................................................................................................ 18
CHAPTER 3
PRODUCT SPECIFIC QUALITY TESTS ................................................................................................ 19
PDSA Cycle ............................................................................................................................................ 19
CAUSE AND EFFECT DIAGRAM .................................................................................................. 20
FLOW CHART ................................................................................................................................... 20
CHECKLIST....................................................................................................................................... 20
CONTROL CHART ........................................................................................................................... 20
 PARETO CHART .............................................................................................................................. 20
HISTOGRAM ..................................................................................................................................... 20
BY-PRODUCTS OF THE COMPANY ..................................................................................................... 21
CHAPTER 4
SOCIAL AND LEGAL PRACTICES ........................................................................................................ 22
Buyers need for standards ....................................................................................................................... 22
Code of Conduct (AIT) ........................................................................................................................... 22
General Principle ................................................................................................................................ 22
Environment........................................................................................................................................ 22
Discrimination..................................................................................................................................... 23
Forced Labor ....................................................................................................................................... 23
Child Labor ......................................................................................................................................... 23
Wages & Hours ................................................................................................................................... 23
Working Conditions ............................................................................................................................ 24
Factory: ............................................................................................................................................... 24
Freedom of Association ...................................................................................................................... 25
Monitoring & Enforcement ................................................................................................................. 25
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES.................................................................................................................... 25
ISO AND OTHER CERTIFICATIONS ACQUIRED BY THE COMPANY ........................................... 26
COMPARISON OF THE DENIM (JEANS) MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND QUALITY WITH
THE PRODUCTION IN REST OF THE WORLD.................................................................................... 27
CHAPTER 5
CONCLUSION ........................................................................................................................................... 28
LIST OF CHARTS
Chart 1 Management structure ...................................................................................................................... 8
Chart 2 Production chart ............................................................................................................................. 16
Chart 3 Supply chain................................................................................................................................... 18
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1 Cycle of PPC in garment manufacturing industry ........................................................................ 12
Figure 2 Forward scheduling process ......................................................................................................... 15
Figure 3 Backward scheduling process ....................................................................................................... 15
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
Background
Ahsan Ikram Textile (PVT) LTD. formerly known as Ihsan Yousaf textiles is was initiated by Haji
Muhammad Yousaf who started his work life with traditional method (manual) of textile dyeing in 1958.
Turning iout ito ibe ia imilestone iin ithe ifuture iprogress, iit idid inot itake ilong ibefore ithe icompany iwas iwidely
ireputed iand irespected iin ithe itextile imarket. iIn i1978 ithe icompany iestablished itextile iexport. iIhsan iYousaf

iTextile ihad icomplete ivertical isetup iand ithrough iwas iexperience iit ihas ibeen isuccessful iin iproducing

ispecialized iproducts.

Ihsan iYousaf iTextile i(PVT) iLtd, ilocated iin iFaisalabad, iPakistan. iIt iis ione iof ithe ileading imanufacturers iof
itextile ifinished igoods. iA iseries iof iawards, irecognition iand icertifications iare itestimonies iof ithis icompany’s

ieffort itowards ibecoming ia iTQ icompany. iThey igained iBS iEN iISO i9001 icertification iin i1996, iand ireceived

ithe icertificate iof i“Confidence iin iTextiles” iTested ifor iharmful isubstances iaccording ito iOeko-Tex®

iStandard i100- iGermany. iIt iis inow ione iof ithe ileading itextile itrading ihouses iwith iexport ivicinity iwith ivast

iborders ifrom iEurope, iNorth iand iSouth iAmerica, iAfrica iand iMiddle iEast. iStrong isense iof iresponsibility,

ihaving ia iglance iover iworldwide ivogue iin itextile iindustry iand igiving ifull-fledged idedicated iservices ito ithe

1
iclients iis ithe imain ifactor iof ithe isuccess iof iAhsan iIkram iTextiles.

COMPANY STRUCTURE
Of ithe i225 iemployees iworking iin icompany, i14 iare iof istaff/management ilevel. iOnly i8 ipeople iare iemployed
iin iquality idepartment iwhich iis iabout i4% iof ithe itotal iworkforce iand iconsidered ivery ilean. iThe iIYT’s

iorganizational istructure iis istill ivery imuch itriangular iin ishape, iwhere ichairman iheads ithe icompany, iassisted

iby iGeneral iManager. iThe isecond ilayer iof istructure icomprises iof idepartmental imanager iincluding iGrey

iFabric iDepartment, iCAD iCAM iStudio i(Designing iStudio), iLaser iEngraving/ iExposing, iBleaching iPlant,

iPrinting, iQuality iControl idepartment, iFinishing, iPanel iPrinting, iJigger iDyeing, iContinues iThermo-sole

iDyeing, iCalendaring, iRaising iMachines, iRolling iDepartment, iStitching iDepartment, iResearch i&

2
iDevelopment iDepartment.

Chart 1 Management structure

1
https://www.ait.com.pk/ Ahsan Ikram Textile
2
www.ccsenet.org/ibr International Business Research Vol. 4, No. 4; October 2011
DEPARTMENTS
Back process
• Ball Wrapping
• Warping
• Sizzing
• Re-beaming

Production
• Spinning
• Weaving
• Finishing
• Folding
• Fabric go down

Maintenance
• Mechanical Department
• Electrical Department
• Boiler
• Power House Department

Admin
• Security Department
• Fire Fighting
• Pay roll
• Medical
• Waste

Leads by department Managers

• Fare manager
• Fitter
• Assistant fitter
• Helpers
CHAPTER 2
PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL OF THE COMPANY
The imain iaim iof iproduction iplanning iis ito iprovide ia isystem ialong iwith ia iset iof iprocedures ifor ieffective
iconversion iof iraw imaterials, ilabor iand iother iinputs iinto ifinal iproduct i(garment). iThe ithree ikey ielements

idetermining iproduction iplanning iin iindustry iare

• Volume of production

• Nature of production process

• Nature of operation

Volume of production:
The iintensity iand iquantity iof iproduction iplanning icould ibe idetermined iby ithe ivolume iand icharacter iof ithe
iprocesses iand ithe inature iof ithe iproduction iprocesses. iFor iexample, iproduction iplanning ifor imanufacture

iof i10,000 igarments iwould ibe idifferent ifrom ithe iplanning ifor i1000 igarments.

Nature of production process:

In ia ijob ishop, ithe iproduction iplanning iwould ibe ivery icasual iand iinformal iand icreating iwork imethods iare
iup ito ithe iskill iof ithe iindividual iperson. iBut iin ithe icase iof ihigh-volume iproduction, imany igarment

idesigners, iprocess iengineers iand iindustrial iengineers i(IEs) iare iinvolved.

Nature of operations:
Comprehensive iplanning iis inecessary ifor icyclic ioperations, ifor iexample, iin icontinuous imanufacturing iof ia
isingle istandardized istyle iof igarment.

The alternatives in manufacturing approach are:

• Manufacturing to order, which may or may not be repetitive at regular intervals

• Manufacturing for stock and sell – batch or mass production

• Manufacturing for stock and sell – continuous process manufacturing

Production planning system:

The two interconnected subsystems in a production planning system are

1. Product planning system

2. Process planning system

A iproduct iplanning isystem iincludes iprocesses irelated ito ithe idevelopment iof iproduct ibased ion imarket
inecessities. iIn ithe icase iof ithe iapparel iindustry, iit iincludes ifashion iforecasting, icustomer iresearch,

idevelopment iof iprotocol, ietc. i iA iprocess iplanning isystem iincludes iactivities ithat iare irequired ifor ithe

iproduction iof iproduct ibased ion iexpected idemand. iThis iinvolves idetermination iof ithe iamount iof imaterial

irequired iin ivarious iprocesses, ithe isequence iof iprocesses ithat iinclude ithe ifabric iinspection, ispreading,

icutting, isewing, ifinishing, ipacking, ietc. iThe iproduct iplanning isystem ipays imore iattention ito imarket
irequirements iand ithe icreation iof iproduct idesign ibased ion ithe irequirement. iBut iprocess iplanning iis imore
ifocused ion ithe iactivities ithat iare iaimed iat iprocesses iinvolved iin ithe idevelopment iof ithe iproduct.

Productionkcontrolainagarmentaindustry
Production icontrol iinvolves iplanning iof iproduction iof ithe igarments iand ithe iresources iin iterms iof
iequipment iand ithe ilabor iavailable ifor itranslating ithe irequirement iof ithe igarment iproduction iinto ireality.

iDue ito ithe icontinuous imonitoring iof iproduction iflow iand ithe iutilization iof iresources iby ithe iproduction

icontrol idepartment, iany ideviation ifrom ithe ipredetermined iplan ican ibe imanaged; ihence, ithe iproductivity

imay irun iaccording ito ithe ioriginal ischedule. iIt imanages iall ithe igarment iproduction ioperations iby imeans iof

igathering ithe isignificant iinformation iregarding ithe ivarious itypes iof iinputs iand ioutputs, iand iby imaking

irequired ichanges iin ithem. iIt iguides iand iinspects ithe iprogress iof ithe iprocess iand icloses ithe irecords ion ithe

icompletionaofatheaworkaoraorder.

The functions of production control are to:

• Offer ithe iproduction iof icomponent ipanels, iassemblies iand igarments iof irequisite iquantity iand
iquality iand iat ithe itarget itime.

• Coordinate, imonitor, iand ifeedback iconcerned iwith ithe iproduction iof ia iparticular istyle ito ithe
imanagement, ianalyzing ithe iresults iof ithe iproduction iactivities, iunderstanding itheir iimportance iand

itaking inecessary icorrective iaction.

• Offer optimal use of all resources.

• Achieve low production cost and reliable customer service.

Elements of the production control in clothing industry:

Production icontrol iis iupdating iand iimproving ithe iprocedure. iBased ion ithe irequirements iof
iimplementation, ithe iworker iand imachinery iassignments, ithe ijob ipriorities, ithe iproduction iroutes, ietc. imay

ibe imodified. iThe ifeatures iof iproduction icontrol iinclude ithe ifollowing:

• Control of planning: It iguarantees ithe ireceipt iof iup-to-date iestimated idata ifrom iPP i(production
iplanning) idepartment, ibill iof imaterial i(BOM) iinformation ifrom iproduct iengineering iand idata

iregarding irouting ifrom iprocess iengineering.

• Control of materials: It iensures idelivery iof inecessary iraw imaterials ito ithe iwork ifloor iand
imovement iof imaterials iwithin ithe ishop.

• Control of manufacturing capacity: iEstablish ithe iavailability iof imachinery iand ilabor iskill ilevel
iand igive ithe ipractically iachievable iproduction ischedules.

• Control of activities: Release iorder iand iinformation.

• Control of quantity: Follow-up iof iprogress iof iproduction ito iensure ithat ithe inecessary iquantities
iare iprocessed iat ieach iproduction istage.

• Control of due dates: Check ion ithe irelation iof iactual iand iplanned ischedules iand iestablish ithe
ireasons ifor idelays ior istoppages ithat ihinder ithe iweekly ischedules iof iwork iallocated ito ieach

imachine ior iwork istation.

 • Control of information: Issue itimely iinformation iand ireports ishowing ideviations ifrom iplans;
ihence icorrective iaction icould ibe icarried iout.

Production planning and control (PPC) in garment industry

Production iplanning iand icontrol i(PPC) iare iimportant iaspects iof ithe igarment imanufacturing iindustry.
iPrecision iin iplanning iequates ito ion-time ishipments, ithe ibest iuse iof ilabor, and assurances that appropriate

supplies and equipment are available for each order.

Figure 1 Cycle of PPC in garment manufacturing industry

It ibasically icomprises iplanning iproduction iin ian iorganization iprior ito iactual iproduction iprocesses iand
ipracticing icontrol iactivities ito iensure ithat ithe iintended iproduction iis iachieved iwith irespect ito iquantity,

iquality, idelivery ischedule, iand icost iof imanufacturing.

The aim of production planning and control (PPC) in the apparel industry consists of the following
factors:

• To idispatch ithe igarments iat irequired iquality iand iquantity iin itime ito iattain ibuyer isatisfaction.

• To iensure ithe imaximum iuse iof iall iresources.

• To iensure ithat iquality igarments iare iproduced.

• To iminimize ithe iproduct imanufacturing itime.

• To imaintain ioptimum iinventory ilevels.

• To imaintain iflexibility iin ithe imanufacturing iprocess.

• To icoordinate ibetween ioperator, imachines iand idifferent idepartments.

• To ieliminate ibottlenecks iat iall iphases iof iproduction iand iresolve ithe iissues iassociated iwith
iproduction.

• To iensure iefficient icost ireduction iand icontrol.

• The ivital iobjective iis ito iincrease ithe iprofit iof ithe igarment iindustry.

Stages of production planning and control:

There are three stages in PPC, which are as follows:
 • Planning stage

• Action stage

• Control stage

Planning stage:
The imanufacturing iof ia igarment ibegins iwith ithe iplanning ifor ithe isame. iIt icomprises iselection iof ithe ibest
icourse iof iaction iwithin inumerous ialternatives. iThe itwo istages iin ithe iplanning istage iare ipreplanning iand

iactive iplanning.

• Pre-planning: iPreplanning iprocess icomprises iproduct iplanning iand idevelopment, idemand

iforecasting, iresource iand ifacilities iplanning, iplant iplanning iand iplant ilayout. iPreplanning iin ithe

igarment iindustry iplays ia iprominent irole. iFashion iforecasting iis ithe ifirst iand iforemost istage iin

iplanning ifor iproduction.

• Active iplanning: iIt icomprises iplanning ifor iquantity, iproduct imix idetermination, ischeduling,
irouting, imaterial iand iprocess iplanning.

Action stage:
This istage iis iconsidered ias ithe iexecution istage. iIt iinvolves ithe idispatching iand iprogressing ifunction. iThis
istage iin iapparel iindustry iis ithe istage iwhere ithe iproduction iof ithe igarment iis iin iprocess iaccording ito ithe

irequirements iof ithe iproduct. iThe iplanning iand ischeduling ifor ithe igarment iproduction iincluding ithe

iassortment iplan, ilayout iplans, icutting iand isewing iare iin iprogress. iIt iincludes iall ithe istages ifrom ireceiving

ithe ifabric ito idispatching ithe igarments ito ithe icustomer.

Control stage:
It iinvolves imaterial icontrol, iinventory icontrol, iquality icontrol, ilabor icontrol iand icost icontrol. iThis iphase iis
imore iin iterms iof icontrolling ithe ifunctions iin iproduction iwith ian iobjective iof imanufacturing ithe iproducts

as planned.

The planning of these three different stages depends on the principles of the production planning, which
are as follows:

• Type of production determines the kind of PPC system needed.

• Number of parts involved in the product affects expenses of operating the PPC department.

• Complexity of the PPC function varies with the number of assemblies involved.

• Time is a common denominator for all scheduling activities.

• Size of the plant has relatively little to do with the type of PPC system needed.

• PPC permits ‘management by exception’.

Levels of production planning and control:

Production iplanning itakes iplace iat imany ilevels iof ithe iindustry/organization iand icovers idifferent itime
iperspectives. iIt icould ibe icategorized ias istrategic iplanning, itactical iplanning, iand ioperational iplanning

ibased ion ithe igraded ialtitudes iin iwhich iit iis icarried iout iin ithe igarment iindustry.
Strategic planning:
Strategic iplanning iis ian iorganization’s iprocess iof idefining iits istrategy, ior idirection, iand imaking idecisions
ion iallocating iits iresources ito ipursue ithis istrategy. iGenerally, iit iis ia ilong-run iplan icarried iout iat ithe itop

imanagement ilevel. iThe ilong-term iplans iconcentrate ion iproduct ilines, idivisions, imarkets, iand iother

ibusiness iunits. iThe ifactors iconsidered ifor ithe ilong-term iplanning iincludes iinvestment icapacity iof ithe

iorganization, ilife icycle iof iproduct, imarket irequirements, etc.

Tactical planning:
It iis iexecuted ifor ian iintermediate iterm iby ithe imiddle ilevel imanagement iin ian iorganization. iIt ifocuses ion
icomprehensive iproducts iinstead iof iindividual ispecific istyle iof iproducts iand ihas ia itime ispan iof i6–18

imonths. iIt iindicates ithe iemployment iplans, iutility iplans, imaterials isupply iplans iand iexpansion iplans iin ithe

iindustry.

Operational planning:
This iis iexecuted ifor ia ishort-range itime iperiod iby ithe ilower ilevel imanagement iin ian iorganization. iIt iis
imainly iconcerned iwith ithe iuse iof iexisting iservices ior ifacilities iin ithe iindustry irather ithan icreation. iIt

icomprises iadequate iutilization iof iresources ilike iraw imaterials, imachinery, ienergy, ietc. iShort-term

iplanning itakes iinto iaccount iexisting icustomer iorders, ipriorities iregarding imaterial iavailability, ilabor

34
iabsenteeism irate, icash iflows, ietc.

FLOW CHART OF THE PRODUCTION PROCESS AND

SUPPLY CHAIN OF THE COMPANY
Scheduling techniques
The type of scheduling technique utilized in a job shop is based on the quantity of the received orders, the
nature of the process and its complexity.[13][12]

The two types of scheduling techniques are:

• Forward scheduling

• Backward scheduling

Forwardjscheduling
In ithis iprocess, ieach itask ior ioperation iis ischeduled ito ihappen iat ithe iearliest itime ithat ithe irequired imaterial
iwill ibe ion ihand iand icapacity iwill ibe iavailable. iIt ipresumes ithat iprocurement iof imaterial iand ioperations

istarts ias isoon ias ithe ibuyer/customer irequirements iare iknown. iSome ibuffer itime icould ibe iadded ito iestimate

ithe itarget idate iand itime ifor idispatching ithe iorder ito ithe ibuyer. iFigure iB iillustrates ithe iforward ischeduling

iprocess. iFrom iFigure iB iit icould ibe inoticed ithat ithe itotal itime iinvolved iin istarting iand ifinishing ithe ispecific

itasks iin ieach idepartment iis icalculated ion ithe ibase iof ithe itime iscale iand ithen ithe idate ifor ithe idelivery iof ithe

iproducts.

3
https://clothingindustry.com/2017/12/production-planning-control-garments.html
4
G.D Premi, Colourage, Vol. 22, December 1997, 27
 Figure 2 Forward scheduling process

Backwardascheduling
This itechnique iis inormally iutilized iin iassembly itype iindustries iwhere ithey icommit iin iadvance ito ispecific
idelivery itime. iAfter ithe idetermination iof ithe iessential ischedule idates ifor ikey isub-assemblies, ithe ischedule

iutilities ithese idates ifor ieach icomponent iand iworks ibackward ito idetermine ithe iproper idispatch idate ifor ieach

icomponent imanufacturing iorder. iThe iwork ior ijobs istart idate iis icalculated iby i‘setting iback’ ifrom ithe ifinish

idate ithe iprocessing itime ifor ithe ijob. iThe ibackward ischeduling iis ishown iin iFigure iC, iwhere ithe ioverall

imanufacturing ilead itime iis isplit iinto ithe itime ischedule iof idifferent idepartments ion ithe ibasis iof itime iscale.

Figure 3 Backward scheduling process

Flow chart
In a textile garments industry, a lot of different things like curtains, hotel linen, jacquard bedding pillow,
cushions etc. Every garment has its own production process, it is not possible to show flow chart of all
garments procedure but approximately after manufacturing the remaining procedure was same. 56

Chart 2 Production chart

5
Berry, T.H. (1991). Managing the Total Quality Transformation. New York: McGraw-Hill.
6
Yong, J. and Wilkinson, A. (2001). Rethinking Total Quality Management. Total Quality Management, 12(2), 247-
258.
Processes
If we talk about processes there are major four steps in production of every garments:[7][9]

• Preparatory Process
• Spinning
• Weaving
• Finishing

Preparatory Process
The icotton iis ifed iinto ithe imachine iand igets ibeaten iwith ia ibeater ibar, ito iloosen iit iup. iIt iis ifed ithrough
ivarious irollers, iwhich iserve ito iremove ithe ivegetable imatter.

Spinning
Spinning iprocess iinvolves iflow iof iraw imaterial ithrough imixing, iblow iroom, iand iCarding, idrawing,
icombing, isimplex, iring iand iauto icone.

Weaving
The iweaving iprocess iuses ia iloom. iThe ilength iway ithreads iare iknown ias ithe iwarp, iand ithe icross-way
ithreads iare iknown ias ithe iweft.

Finishing
The igrey icloth, iwoven icotton ifabric iin iits iloom istate, inot ionly icontains iimpurities, iincluding iwarp isize,
78
ibut irequires ifurther itreatment iin iorder ito idevelop iits ifull itextile ipotential.

7
Anderson, K. (ed.) (1992) New Silk Roads: East Asia and World Textile Markets. Cambridge: Cambridge
University Press.
8
All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) (Various Issues) Annual Report
SUPPLY CHAIN
The supply chain of textile industry is as follow: 910

Chart 3 Supply chain

9
https://textilelearner.com/2013/06/the-supply-chain-of-textile-industry-in.html
10
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Textile-industry-supply-chain_fig8_267214154
CHAPTER 3
PRODUCT SPECIFIC QUALITY TESTS
Textile iindustry ihas ibeen iPremier iindustry iin iPakistan iand ia imajor isource iof iexport iearnings iand
iemployment. iIt ialso ihelps iin ivalue iaddition ito ithe imanufacturing isector iof ithe ieconomy. iSo, iit iis inecessary

ito iprovide ian iexcellent iquality ito ithe icustomers. iTQM iplaces ia igreat ideal iof iresponsibility ion iall iworkers.

iIf iemployees iare ito iidentify iand icorrect iquality iproblems, ithey ineed iproper itraining. iThey ineed ito

iunderstand ihow ito iassess iquality iby iusing ia ivariety iof iquality icontrol itools, ihow ito iinterpret ifindings, iand
11
ihow ito icorrect iproblems.

Dimensions of Quality

From the dimensions of quality, it is important that everything will be checked and fix on time this all
will be done by following PDSA cycle.

PDSA Cycle
The PDSA includes:12

• Identify ithe iopportunity i

• Analyze ithe icurrent iprocess i
• Develop ithe ioptimal isolution(s) i
• Implement ichanges i
• Study ithe iresults i
• Standardize ithe isolution i
• Plan ifor ithe ifuture.
After that company will focus on the following things:

• Cause iand ieffect idiagram

• Flow ichart
• Checklist i
• Control ichart

Powell, T.C., (1995), “Total quality management as competitive advantage: A review and empirical study”
11

Allen, N. and Oakland, J. (1988) “Quality assurance in the textile industry: part 1”, International Journal of
12

Quality & Reliability Management, 5 (5), pp 25-37

 • Pareto ichart
• Histogram

CAUSE AND EFFECT DIAGRAM

Cause-and-effect idiagrams iare icharts ithat iidentify ipotential icauses ifor iparticular iquality iproblems. iThey
iare ioften icalled ifishbone idiagrams ibecause ithey ilook ilike ithe ibones iof ia ifish. iThe i“head” iof ithe ifish iis ithe

iquality iproblem, isuch ias idamaged izippers ion ia igarment ior ibroken ivalves ion ia itire. iThe idiagram iis idrawn

iso ithat ithe i“spine” iof ithe ifish iconnects ithe i“head” ito ithe ipossible icause iof ithe iproblem. iThese icauses icould

ibe irelated ito ithe imachines, iworkers, imeasurement, isuppliers, imaterials, iand imany iother iaspects iof ithe

iproduction iprocess. iEach iof ithese ipossible icauses ican ithen ihave ismaller i“bones” ithat iaddress ispecific

iissues ithat irelate ito ieach icause.

FLOW CHART
A iflowchart iis ia ischematic idiagram iof ithe isequence iof isteps iinvolved iin ian ioperation ior iprocess. iIt iprovides
ia ivisual itool ithat iis ieasy ito iuse iand iunderstand. iBy iseeing ithe isteps iinvolved iin ian ioperation ior iprocess,

ieveryone idevelops ia iclear ipicture iof ihow ithe ioperation iworks iand iwhere iproblems icould iarise.

CHECKLIST
A ichecklist iis ia ilist iof icommon idefects iand ithe inumber iof iobserved ioccurrences iof ithese idefects. iIt iis ia
isimple iyet ieffective ifactfinding itool ithat iallows ithe iworker ito icollect ispecific iinformation iregarding ithe

idefects iobserved. iFor iexample, iif ia idefect iis ibeing iobserved ifrequently, ia ichecklist ican ibe ideveloped ithat

imeasures ithe inumber iof ioccurrences iper ishift, iper imachine, ior iper ioperator. iIn ithis ifashion iwe ican iisolate

ithe ilocation iof ithe iparticular idefect iand ithen ifocus ion icorrecting ithe iproblem.

CONTROL CHART
Control icharts iare ia ivery iimportant iquality icontrol itool. iThese icharts iare iused ito ievaluate iwhether ia
iprocess iis ioperating iwithin iexpectations irelative ito isome imeasured ivalue isuch ias iweight, iwidth, ior

ivolume.

PARETO CHART
Pareto ianalysis iis ia itechnique iused ito iidentify iquality iproblems ibased ion itheir idegree iof iimportance. iThe
ilogic ibehind iPareto ianalysis iis ithat ionly ia ifew iquality iproblems iare iimportant, iwhereas imany iothers iare inot

icritical. iThe iway ito iuse iPareto ianalysis iis ito idevelop ia ichart ithat iranks ithe icauses iof ipoor quality in

decreasing order based on the percentage of defects each has caused.

HISTOGRAM
A ihistogram iis ia ichart ithat ishows ithe ifrequency idistribution iof iobserved ivalues iof ia ivariable. iWe ican isee
ifrom ithe iplot iwhat itype iof idistribution ia iparticular variable displays, such as whether it has a normal

distribution and whether the distribution is symmetrical.

These iare ithe iquality itools ito imaintain ithe iquality ias iwell ias ithey iperform ilab itesting, icheck idensity of
clothes, pre-inspection of goods at different stages and computerizing equipment verifier to maintain the
quality.1314

13
Pradip V. Mehta ,(1985) An introduction to quality control for the apparel industry, J.S.N. International
14
Moosa, K. (2002). Strategic quality management in the Muslim world: A vision for the future. In Pakistan‘s
Seventh International Convention on Quality Improvement.
BY-PRODUCTS OF THE COMPANY
The itextile imanufacturing iprocess iis icharacterized iby ithe ihigh iconsumption iof iresources ilike iwater, ifuel
iand ia ivariety iof ichemicals iin ia ilong iprocess isequence ithat igenerates ia isignificant iamount iof iwaste. iThe

icommon ipractices iof ilow iprocess iefficiency iresult iin isubstantial iwastage iof iresources iand ia isevere idamage

ito ithe ienvironment. iThe imain ienvironmental iproblems iassociated iwith itextile iindustry iare itypically ithose

iassociated iwith iwater ibody ipollution icaused iby ithe idischarge iof iuntreated ieffluents. iOther ienvironmental

iissues iof iequal iimportance iare iair iemission, inotably iVolatile iOrganic iCompounds i(VOC)’s iand iexcessive
15
inoise ior iodor ias iwell ias iworkspace isafety.

15
https://indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=2420
CHAPTER 4
SOCIAL AND LEGAL PRACTICES
Buyers need for standards
Large ifirms, iconscious iof itheir iimage, ioften iset iup itheir iown icodes iof iconduct ifor ithe iexporters iand
imanufacturers iin ithe ideveloping icountries ito iensure ithat iall istandards iare ibeing icomplied iwith. iThese ifirms

ido inot irely ion iISO ior iother icertifications iand isend itheir iown iauditors ito ievaluate ia icompany’s

iperformance. iAn iexample iin ithis iregard iis iIKEA, iwhich iis icurrently ibuying iTextile iproducts ifrom ia

inumber iof iTextile icompanies iin iPakistan. iIt idoes inot ipermit ithe iuse iof ichemicals isuch ias iazo idyes ior

icadmium iin iTextile iproducts. iIKEA ialso iapplies ithe istrictest ipossible i(German) iregulations ion

ipentachlorophenol, iused ias ia imold iagent. iIKEA ialso iprovides ia iniche ifor i“organically igrown” icotton,

imeaning ithat ino iartificial ifertilizers ior ichemical ibiocides ihave ibeen iused iin iits icultivation. iAnother

example is of Walt Disney Ltd., U.S., which is also a major buyer of Pakistan’s Textile products. Their
codes of conduct include a complete list of regulations for labor and environmental protection. Some
company codes of conduct are tabulated illustratively.16

Code of Conduct (AIT)

This iCode iof iVendor iConduct iapplies ito iall ifactories ithat iproduce igoods ifor iGap iInc. ior iany iof iits
isubsidiaries, idivisions, iaffiliates ior iagents i(“Gap iInc”). i

While iGap iInc. irecognizes ithat ithere iare idifferent ilegal iand icultural ienvironments iin iwhich ifactories
ioperate ithroughout ithe iworld, ithis iCode isets iforth ithe ibasic irequirements ithat iall ifactories imust imeet iin

iorder ito ido ibusiness iwith iGap iInc. iThe iCode ialso iprovides ithe ifoundation ifor iGap iInc.’s iongoing

ievaluation iof ia ifactory’s iemployment ipractices iand ienvironmental icompliance.

General Principle
Factories ithat iproduce igoods ifor iGap iInc. ishall ioperate iin ifull icompliance iwith ithe ilaws iof itheir irespective
icountries iand iwith iall iother iapplicable ilaws, irules iand iregulations.

• The factory operates in full compliance with all applicable laws, rules and regulations, including
those relating to labor, worker health and safety, and the environment.
• The factory allows Gap Inc. and/or any of its representatives or agent’s unrestricted access to its
facilities and to all relevant records at all times, whether or not notice is provided in advance.
Environment
Factories imust icomply iwith iall iapplicable ienvironmental ilaws iand iregulations. iWhere isuch irequirements
iare iless istringent ithan iGap iInc.’s iown, ifactories iare iencouraged ito imeet ithe istandards ioutlined iin iGap

iInc.’s istatement iof ienvironmental iprinciples.

• The factory has an environmental management system or plan.

• The factory has procedures for notifying local community authorities in case of accidental
discharge or release or any other environmental emergency.

16
] Wiele, A.V.D., Dale, B.G. and Williams, A.R.T. (1997). ISO 9000 series registration to total quality
management: the transformation journey. International Journal of Quality Science, 2(4), 236-252.
Discrimination
Factories ishall iemploy iworkers ion ithe ibasis iof itheir iability ito ido ithe ijob, inot ion ithe ibasis iof itheir ipersonal
icharacteristics ior ibeliefs.

• The ifactory iemploys iworkers iwithout iregard ito irace, icolor, igender, inationality, ireligion, iage,
imaternity ior imarital istatus.

• The ifactory ipays iworkers’ iwages iand iprovides ibenefits iwithout iregard ito irace, icolor, igender,
inationality, ireligion, iage, imaternity ior marital status.

Forced Labor
Factories ishall inot iuse iany iprison, iindentured ior iforced ilabor. i

• The ifactory idoes inot iuse iinvoluntary ilabor iof iany ikind, iincluding iprison ilabor, idebt ibondage ior
iforced ilabor iby igovernments. i

• If ithe ifactory irecruits iforeign icontract iworkers, ithe ifactory ipays iagency irecruitment icommissions
iand idoes inot irequire iany iworker ito iremain iin iemployment ifor iany iperiod iof itime iagainst ihis ior iher

iwill.

Child Labor
Factories iishall iiemploy iionly iiworkers iiwho iimeet iithe iiapplicable iiminimum iilegal iiage iirequirement iior iiare iiat
iileast ii14 iiyears iiof iiage, iiwhichever iiis iigreater. iiFactories iimust iialso iicomply iiwith iiall iiother iiapplicable iichild

iilabor iilaws. iiFactories iiare iiencouraged iito iidevelop iilawful iiworkplace iiapprenticeship iiprograms iifor iithe

iieducational iibenefit iiof iitheir iiworkers, iiprovided iithat iiall iiparticipants iimeet iiboth iiGap iiInc.’s iiminimum iiage

iistandard iiof ii14 iiand iithe iiminimum iilegal iiage iirequirement.

• Every iiworker iiemployed iiby iithe iifactory iiis iiat iileast ii14 iiyears iiof iiage iiand iimeets iithe iiapplicable
iiminimum iilegal iiage iirequirement.

• The iifactory iicomplies iiwith iiall iiapplicable iichild iilabor iilaws, iiincluding iithose iirelated iito iihiring,
iiwages, iihours iiworked, iiovertime iiand iiworking iiconditions.

• The iifactory iiencourages iiand iiallows iieligible iiworkers, iiespecially iiyounger iiworkers, iito iiattend
iinight iiclasses iiand iiparticipate iiin iiwork-study iiprograms iiand iiother iigovernment iisponsored

iieducational iiprograms. ii

• The iifactory iimaintains iiofficial iidocumentation iifor iievery iiworker iithat iiverifies iithe iiworker’s iidate
iiof iibirth. iiIn iithose iicountries iiwhere iiofficial iidocuments iiare iinot iiavailable iito iiconfirm iiexact iidate iiof

iibirth, iithe iifactory iiconfirms iiage iiusing iian iiappropriate iiand iireliable iiassessment iimethod.

Wages & Hours

Factories iishall iiset iiworking iihours, iiwages iiand iiovertime iipay iiin iicompliance iiwith iiall iiapplicable iilaws.
iiWorkers iishall iibe iipaid iiat iileast iithe iiminimum iilegal iiwage iior iia iiwage iithat iimeets iilocal iiindustry iistandards,

iiwhichever iiis iigreater. iiWhile iiit iiis iiunderstood iithat iiovertime iiis iioften iirequired iiin iigarment iiproduction,

iifactories iishall iicarry iiout iioperations iiin iiways iithat iilimit iiovertime iito iia iilevel iithat iiensures iihumane iiand

iiproductive iiworking iiconditions.

 • Workers are paid at least the minimum legal iwage ior ithe ilocal iindustry istandard, iwhichever iis
igreater.

• The ifactory ipays iovertime iand iany iincentive i(or ipiece) irates ithat imeet iall ilegal irequirements ior ithe
ilocal iindustry istandard, iwhichever iis igreater. iHourly iwage irates ifor iovertime imust ibe ihigher ithan

ithe irates ifor ithe iregular iwork ishift. iC. iThe ifactory idoes inot irequire, ion ia iregularly ischeduled ibasis,

ia iwork iweek iin iexcess iof i60 ihours.

• Workers may refuse overtime without any threat of penalty, punishment or dismissal.
• Workers ihave iat ileast ione iday ioff iin iseven.
• The ifactory iprovides ipaid iannual leave and holidays as required by law or which meet the local
industry standard, whichever is greater.
• For ieach ipay iperiod, ithe ifactory iprovides iworkers ian iunderstandable iwage istatement iwhich
iincludes idays iworked, iwage ior ipiece irate iearned iper iday, ihours iof iovertime iat ieach ispecified irate,

ibonuses, iallowances iand ilegal ior icontractual ideductions.

Working Conditions
Factories iimust iitreat iiall iiworkers iiwith iirespect iiand iidignity iiand iiprovide iithem iiwith iia iisafe iiand iihealthy
iienvironment. iiFactories iishall iicomply iiwith iiall iiapplicable iilaws iiand iiregulations iiregarding iiworking

iiconditions. iiFactories iishall iinot iiuse iicorporal iipunishment iior iiany iiother iiform iiof iiphysical iior iipsychological

iicoercion. iiFactories iimust iibe iisufficiently iilighted iiand iiventilated, iiaisles iiaccessible, iimachinery

iimaintained, iiand iihazardous iimaterials iisensibly iistored iiand iidisposed iiof. iiFactories iiproviding iihousing iifor

iiworkers iimust iikeep iithese iifacilities iiclean iiand iisafe.

Factory:
• The ifactory idoes inot iengage iin ior ipermit iphysical iacts ito ipunish ior icoerce iworkers.
• The ifactory idoes inot iengage iin ior ipermit ipsychological icoercion ior iany iother iform iof inon-physical
iabuse, iincluding ithreats iof iviolence, isexual iharassment, iscreaming ior iother iverbal iabuse.

• The ifactory icomplies iwith iall iapplicable ilaws iregarding iworking iconditions, iincluding iworker
ihealth iand isafety, isanitation, ifire isafety, irisk iprotection, iand ielectrical, imechanical iand istructural

isafety.

• Work isurface ilighting iin iproduction iareas—such ias isewing, iknitting, ipressing iand icutting—is
isufficient ifor ithe isafe iperformance iof iproduction iactivities.

• The ifactory iis iwell iventilated. iThere iare iwindows, ifans, iair iconditioners ior iheaters iin iall iwork iareas
ifor iadequate icirculation, iventilation iand itemperature icontrol.

• There iare isufficient, iclearly imarked iexits iallowing ifor the orderly evacuation of workers in case of
fire or other emergencies. Emergency exit routes are posted and clearly marked in all sections of
the factory.
• Aisles, iexits iand istairwells iare ikept iclear iat iall itimes iof iwork iin iprocess, ifinished igarments, ibolts iof
ifabric, iboxes iand iall iother iobjects ithat icould iobstruct ithe iorderly ievacuation iof iworkers iin icase iof

ifire ior iother iemergencies. iThe ifactory iindicates iwith ia i“yellow ibox” ior iother imarkings ithat ithe

iareas iin ifront iof iexits, ifirefighting iequipment, icontrol ipanels iand ipotential ifire isources iare ito ibe

ikept iclear.
 • Doors iand iother iexits iare ikept iaccessible iand iunlocked iduring iall iworking ihours ifor iorderly
ievacuation iin icase iof ifire ior iother iemergencies. iAll imain iexit idoors iopen ito ithe ioutside.

• Fire iextinguishers iare iappropriate ito ithe itypes iof ipossible ifires iin ithe ivarious iareas iof ithe ifactory,
iare iregularly imaintained iand icharged, idisplay ithe idate iof itheir ilast iinspection, iand iare imounted ion

iwalls iand icolumns ithroughout ithe ifactory iso ithey iare ivisible iand iaccessible ito iworkers iin iall iareas.
i

• Fire ialarms iare ion ieach ifloor iand iemergency ilights iare iplaced iabove iexits iand ion istairwells.
• Evacuation idrills iare iconducted iat ileast iannually. iL. iMachinery iis iequipped iwith ioperational isafety
idevices iand iis iinspected iand iserviced ion ia iregular ibasis.

• Appropriate ipersonal iprotective iequipment—such ias imasks, igloves, igoggles, iear iplugs iand irubber
iboots—is imade iavailable iat ino icost ito iall iworkers iand iinstruction iin iits iuse iis iprovided.

• The ifactory iprovides ipotable iwater ifor iall iworkers iand iallows ireasonable iaccess ito iit ithroughout
ithe iworking iday.

• The ifactory iplaces iat ileast ione iwell-stocked ifirst iaid ikit ion ievery ifactory ifloor iand itrains ispecific
istaff iin ibasic ifirst iaid. iThe ifactory ihas iprocedures ifor idealing iwith iserious iinjuries ithat irequire

imedical itreatment ioutside ithe ifactory.

• The ifactory imaintains ithroughout iworking ihours iclean iand isanitary itoilet iareas iand iplaces ino
iunreasonable irestrictions ion itheir iuse.

• The ifactory istores ihazardous iand icombustible imaterials iin isecure iand iventilated iareas iand idisposes
iof ithem iin ia isafe iand ilegal imanner.

Freedom of Association
Workers iiare iifree iito iijoin iiassociations iiof iitheir iiown iichoosing. iiFactories iimust iinot iiinterfere iiwith iiworkers
iiwho iiwish iito iilawfully iiand iipeacefully iiassociate, iiorganize iior iibargain iicollectively. iiThe iidecision iiwhether

iior iinot iito iido iiso iishould iibe iimade iisolely iiby iithe iiworkers.

• Workers iiare iifree iito iichoose iiwhether iior iinot iito iilawfully iiorganize iiand iijoin iiassociations.
• The iifactory iidoes iinot iithreaten, iipenalize, iirestrict iior iiinterfere iiwith iiworkers’ iilawful iiefforts iito iijoin
iiassociations iiof iitheir iichoosing.

Monitoring & Enforcement

As iia iicondition iiof iidoing iibusiness iiwith iiGap iiInc., iieach iiand iievery iifactory iimust iicomply iiwith iithis iiCode
iiof iiVendor iiConduct. iiGap iiInc. iiwill iicontinue iito iidevelop iimonitoring iisystems iito iiassess iiand iiensure

iicompliance. iiIf iiGap iiInc. iidetermines iithat iiany iifactory iihas iiviolated iithis iiCode, iiGap iiInc. iimay iieither

iiterminate iiits iibusiness iirelationship iior iirequire iithe iifactory iito iiimplement iia iicorrective iiaction iiplan. iiIf

iicorrective iiaction iiis iiadvised iibut iinot iitaken, iiGap iiInc. iiwill iisuspend iiplacement iiof iifuture iiorders iiand iimay

iiterminate iicurrent iiproduction.

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
While iiconfronting iiwith iicutting iidown iienvironmental iiburdens, iithe iitextile iisector iiof iiPakistan iiwill iihave iito
iiface iione iiof iithe iibiggest iichallenges iifacing iiof iicomplying iiwith iiinternational iienvironmental iiprotocols.

iiAlmost iievery iimajor iitextile iigroup iihas iiits iiown iipower iiplant iibeing iirun iiby iiusing iifossil iifuel iiand ii(AIT) iiis

iinot iiexception, iiemitting toxic effluent into the air as well as generating major environmental concerns for
ground water. Textile processing employs a variety of chemicals, depending on the nature of the raw
material and products, with different enzymes, detergents, dyes, acids, sodas and salts. Industrial processes
also generate wastewater containing heavy metal contaminants. According to World Health Organization
(WHO) the metals of most immediate concern are chromium, Zinc, iron, mercury and lead. The fate of
these chemicals varies, iranging ifrom i100% iretention ion ithe ifabric ito i100% idischarge iwith ithe ieffluent.
iMost iof ithese imetals iare inon-degradable iinto inon-toxic iend iproducts. iExperts isay ithat itextile iwastewater

icontains isubstantial ipollution iloads iin iterms iof iCOD, iBOD, iTSS, iTDS iand iheavy imetals. iThe ivalues iof

ithese iparameters iare ivery ihigh ias icompared ito ithe ivalues iin iNational iEnvironment iQuality iStandards
17
i(NEQS) iset iby ithe igovernment. i

Solution:
When iwe italk iabout iissues iand ievaluate ithem, iwe isee ithat ithese iare inot inew; ithey ihave ibeen iin iexistence
isince ia ivery ilong itime iand irelate ito ifundamentals iof ithe itextile ibusiness iThe itime inow iis ito iaddress

iquestions ilike iwhy iour iIndustry iis ivulnerable ito ithese icyclical idownturns, iwhy ican't iwe isustain igrowth iand

ieconomic iperformance ion ia isustainable ibasis. iWe ineed ito ichalk idown ia istrategy ito idiagnose iand isolve

iissues iwith ia ilong-term iperspective ito imeet ithe ichallenging itasks iof ithe itextile isector. i i

Furthermore, iAPTMA ibeing ithe ilargest iand iwell-organized iinstitution ihas ithe iultimate iresponsibility ito
ihelp ifacilitate ian ienvironment iand isocio-economic iclimate inecessary ifor ithe ipositive iperformance iand

iviability iof imember imills. iThe ineed iof ithe ihour ifor iAPTMA iis ito iaddress ithese iissues. i

The igas itariffs ifor itextiles iunits iare igetting ifreeze iat ithe icurrent ilevel ifor iat ileast inext i3-5 iyears. Coal based
power generation to be explored on a priority basis, utilizing the abundant availability of coal reserves. The
import of electricity is an option even for short/medium term, to meet the high growth rates of demand in
the country. Thermal efficiency of WAPDA and other Public Sector Units be enhanced to at least 60% to
70% so the ultimate savings can be passed on in the form iof ilower iKWH iprice ito ithe iIndustry. iUnchecked
iincrease iin ithe iprices iof iutilities ishould ibe idiscouraged. iMaximum ifacilities ishould be provided to the

industries using their own alternate energy generating plants. Adequate arrangements are needed to avoid
energy losses due to negligence. 18

ISO AND OTHER CERTIFICATIONS ACQUIRED BY THE

COMPANY
• Received BS EN ISO 9001 certification in 1996
• Received the certificate of “Confidence In Textiles” Tested for harmful substances according
to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100- Germany
• Organic blended content standard
• ONECERT
• REACH
• GRS (UNDER PROCESS)

17
Environmental Analysis of Textile Value Chain: An Overview T. Karthik and D. Gopalakrishnan
18
Toprak T, Anis P. Textile industry’s environmental effects and approaching cleaner production and sustainability,
an overview. J Textile Eng Fashion Technol. 2017;2(4):429-442.
COMPARISON OF THE DENIM (JEANS) MANUFACTURING
PRACTICES AND QUALITY WITH THE PRODUCTION IN
REST OF THE WORLD
According ito iresearch ithat ihave ibeen idone irecently ion ithe isame ifabric iJeans ithat iis imanufactured iin
iPakistan i(also iin iAIT) iand irest iof ithe iworld, isome iunexpected iconclusions iwere iobserved.

Across ithe igarments isector, ifirms ivary iwidely iin itheir ilevel iof isophistication iin iproducing itechnically ithe
isame iproduct i(jeans). iThis ipattern, ihowever, iis inot iunique. iWe ihave iobserved ithe isame iacross

imanufacturing isectors iin iPakistan i– ia ismall inumber iof ilarger iexporters iusing itechnologies iclose ito ithe

ifrontier, ia isomewhat ilarger icohort iof imedium ifirms iusing isome iolder iand isome inewer itechnology iand ia

ilarge iperiphery iof ismall iplayers iusing isecond-hand imachinery, ioutdated itechnologies iand ioften ireverse-

engineered iequipment. iPrevious istudies ihave ihighlighted isome ireasons ifor ithe islow iadoption iof itechnology
iin ithe imanufacturing isector. iSome iliterature ipoints ito ithe irole iof ilabor iin iopposing inew itechnologies. iThe

ipractice iof ipaying ipiece irates, iextremely icommon iin iPakistan, imay ialso iinduce iworkers inot ito iaccurately

ireport ithe ibenefits iof inew itechnologies. iMoreover, ithe imisaligned iincentives ibetween iworkers iand iowners

iwithin ifirms iis ian iimportant ibarrier ito ithe iadoption iof itechnology iand iworkers imay iperform ibetter iwhile

19
ilearning inew itechnologies iif ipiece irates iare icombined iwith iincentives ito iuse ithe itechnology.

Firm A = Pakistani medium industry

Firm B = Pakistani large-scale industry
Firm C = Indian large-scale industry

19
India - Pakistan trade: Textiles and clothing Working Paper, No. 326
CHAPTER 5
CONCLUSION
Pakistan’s itextile iindustry iis igoing ithrough ione iof ithe itoughest iperiods iin idecades. iThe iglobal irecession
iwhich ihas ihit ithe iglobal itextile ireally ihard iis inot ithe ionly icause ifor iconcern. iSerious iinternal iissues isuch ias

ithe ihike iin ielectricity itariff, ithe iincrease iin iinterest irate, ienergy icrisis, idevaluation iof iPakistani irupee,

iincreasing icost iof iinputs, ipolitical iinstability, iremoval iof isubsidy i& iinternal idispute. iAlso ieffected

iPakistan’s itextile iindustry ivery ibadly. iThe ihigh icost iof iproduction iresulting ifrom ian iinstant irise iin ithe

ienergy icosts ihas ibeen ithe iprimary icause iof iconcern ifor ithe iindustry. iDepreciation iof iPakistani irupee iduring

ilast iyear iwhich ihas isignificantly iraised ithe icost iof iimported iinputs. iFurthermore, idouble idigit iinflation iand

ihigh icost iof ifinancing ihas iseriously iaffected ithe igrowth iin ithe itextile iindustry. iA ifactor iincreases ithe icost

iof iproduction iwhich idecreases ithe iexports iconsequently iincreasing iunemployment ilevel. iPakistan’s itextile

iindustry iis ilacking iin iresearch i& idevelopment i(R i& iD). iThe iproduction icapability iis ivery ilow idue ito

iobsolete imachinery i& itechnology. iGiven ithe ifact ithat ithis iindustry istill iprovides ithe imajor ishare iof iexports

iand iemployment iopportunities, ithere iis imore ithan ia igreater ineed ifor isteps iin iright idirection ito irevive iit. iIn

ithe ipast, ipolicy imaking iprocess ineglected ithe iimportance iof ivalue iaddition iin iacquiring igreater imagnitude

iof iexports iand iforeign iexchange. i iIndustry ioutput iis idominated iby ilow-value iadded iproducts, iimplying ithin

imargins iand ilow idifferentiation iwithin iproduct icategories. iMoreover, ithere iis ineed ito iattend itowards

iquality icontrol ias iour iyarn iand iapparel iproducts ifrom ifiner icounts iare ihighly ivulnerable ito iinternational

icompetition. iThrough ireview iof ithe isector isuggests ithat ithough ithis isector isuffers ia inumber iof iweaknesses,

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iit icommands ia ifew istrengths iand ihence iopens iavenues ifor iopportunities.

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Yong, J. and Wilkinson, A. (2001). Rethinking Total Quality Management. Total Quality Management, 12(2),
247-258