Development Formulation

Restructuring night balm with FEMINAGE™ SE0152D

Patent pending

This fresh night balm with Feminage™ is perfect to pamper and take care of the skin thanks to its rich
texture. Feminage™ fights against hormonal facial skin sagging and lifts the skin while Phytolea™
Camellia soothes sensitive and reactive skin. To make this balm texture soft and fresh, the emulsifier
Cithrol™ GMS 40 SE builds a synergy with the bodying agents Crodamol™ CP and Crodacol™ CS90
while Crodamol™ W contributes to the refreshing effect and Crodamol™ GTIS adds a rich and lubricity
feel. All the ingredients of this formula have been chosen to obtain a high natural origin content according
to the ISO 16128-1 and ISO 16128-2 standards. Therefore, this formula respects and protects the skin as
well as the environment, with only Cosmos standard approved ingredients. This balm is designed to
regenerate the skin during the night for a daily well-being.
Ingredient/INCI Name Functionality % w/w
Part A
Water Deionised (Aqua) - To 100
Glycerin Humectant 10.00
Sodium Benzoate Preservative 0.30
Potassium Sorbate Preservative 0.30
Part B
Cithrol™ GMS 40 SE (Glyceryl Stearate SE)1 Emulsifier, Conditioning Agent 6.00
Crodamol™ W (Stearyl Heptanoate (and) Stearyl Caprylate)1 Bodying agent 5.00
Crodamol™ CP (Cetyl Palmitate)1 Bodying agent 4.00
Crodamol™ GTIS (Triisostearin)1 Emollient 4.00
Crodacol™ CS90 (Cetearyl Alcohol)1 Bodying agent 3.00
Crodamol™ SSA (Decyl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate)1 Emollient 1.00
Dl Alpha Tocopherol Antioxidant 0.80
Part C
Phytolea™ Camellia (Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil)3 Soothing oil botanical 1.00
Part D
Seabuckthorn NAT 454477 B4 Fragrance 0.10
Part E
Water Deionised (Aqua) - 1.00
Lactic Acid pH Adjuster 0.10
Part F
Feminage™ (Glycerin (and) Water (and) Engelhardtia Chrysolepis 3.00
Anti-hormonal face sagging active
Leaf Extract)2

Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Sederma 3: Crodarom 4: Firmenich

Procedure:
Weigh Part A mix well. Heat Part A to 75°C in bain-marie. Weigh and heat Part B to 75°C in bain-marie. Weigh and
add Part C to Part B, mix well. Add Part B+C to Part A with strong rotor stator stirring. Weigh and add Part D to Part to
the previous part, to around 45°C, stir well. Weigh Part E and mix well. Adjust pH =5.50+/-0.20 with Part E. Add Part F
to the previous part, stir well.

Appearance: Off-white viscous opaque cream; pH: 5.50 ± 0.5; Viscosity: 300.000 cps ± 10% Sp.93, 2.5rpm, 1
min, 25°C, Brookfield DV-I Prime
Stability: 3 months at 4°C, 25°C, 45°C and 1 month at 50°C
Centrifuge 10min @ 3000rpm and 1 x -80ºC/+25ºC 24 hours freeze-thaw cycle and autoclave 20min @120°C
This formulation was developed in France. Contact your local sales representative with enquiries as ingredient availability can vary by region.

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Development Formulation

Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No
representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a
particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks
identified herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2020 Croda International Plc

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