TIE AND DIE OF RAJASTHAN

Introduction-
-Bandhana Or Banda Are Sanskrit Words Which Mean ‘To Tie’ The Reason Why It Is Called
Bandhani.
-Jamnagar,Rajkot, Porbandar, Kutch , Bikaner, Sikar, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Udaipur, And Nathdwara
They Are The Main Centres Of The Tie And Die Work In India.
-The Earliest Examples Of Tie And Die Textiles Have Been Excauated In Peru(South America)
Dateing From 1-2 Century (BC) And In China 4c AD. Scuptures Of The Ajanta Cave Shows That
Advance Techniques Of Resist Dyeing Were Carried Out In Mohenjo-Daro And Harappa.
-Tie And Die Is A Form Of Resist Dyeing On Fabric Here The Designs Are Resisted By Tying
Threads On The Pre Designed Areas, After Which Fabric Is Dyed, Thus Called Tie And Die.
Procedure-
-The Fabric Is Desired By Washing It In Caustic Soda And Water And Dried.
-The Fabric Is Used To Tie And Dye Is Very Fine Eg Mulmal, Silk, Chiffon. These Fabrics Are
Folded Into 2 Or 4 Parts.
There Are 2 Methods Of Printing Designs-
(A)Water Based Solutions Of Soot Or Geru Is Prepared And A Thick Cotton Thread Is Dipped
Into This. A Rangara (Coloured) Colourer Marks The Design Areas With The Help Of Dyed
Threads.
(B)This Method Is Faster And More Popular. A Thin Sheet Of Stuff Clear Plastic Is Pierced With
Pinholes Forming The Designed Pattern.
Tying-
-The Fabrics Are Tied With A Cotton Yarn.
-The Material Is Pushed Up From Beneath With Along Pointed Nail Of The Little Fingers Of The
Left Hand, Or A Spiked Metal Ring Is Ued. The Protruding Fabric Is Wound 6-8 Times.
-The Thread Is Not Cut And Is Led On To The Next Tie. This Goes On Till All The Design Areas
Left White.
Dyeing -
-The Fabric Is Always Died With The Lighest Colour First , Usually Yellow.
-The Pattern, Which Is To Yellow Is Tied And Then Dyeing , Is Done In A Darker Colour
Red/Green.
-After Drying The Fabric Is Again Tied On The Designs , Which Are To Show Red/Green. It Is
Then Dyed In Even Darker Colours Like Maroon , Black, Dark Brown, Dark Blue.
-The Parts Of The Cloth That Are Not To Be Dyed In The Darkest Color Are Wrapped Up Tightly
In Plastic To Resist The Dying.
-It Is Also Done By Tyeing Thread Soaked In Dark Color When The Fabric Is Still Wet.
-In Gujarat The Fabric Ties Is Opened And The Fabric Is Starched And Ironed.
Techniques of Typing -
-Trying The Fabric In Different Ways Can Show Various Interesting And Result.
(I) A Little Fabric Lifted With A Fingemail And Tied Results In A Dot.
(Ii)The Fabric Is Knotted At The Ends.
(Iii)The Fabric Is Crumpled With Hands Into A Ball And Tied With Threads All Around Called
Marbelling.
(Iv)Stitch Or Tritik: Any Design Is Made And Running Stitch Is Done On The Outline Of The
Design And Pulled Tightly.
(V)Lehariya: The Fabric, Usually On Very Fine Mulmul Is Folded And Tied At Intervals With
Threads And Dyed. This Leaves A Striped Pattern On The Fabric. It Is Commonly-Used For
Turbans And Dupatta.
(A)Straight Strips Running Diagonally From One Corner To The Other Called ‘Salaldar’.
(B)The Fabric Is Folded Like A Faw To Give The Zig-Zag Pattern Called ‘Gandadar’.
(C)Held From The Centre And Tried To Give A Circular Effect Called ‘Chaki’.
Motifs Used –
-Motifs Used Are-Bindi(Dot), Laddu(Circle), Dabbi(Rhombus), Ras Mandala (Women Dancing In
A Circle Around A Centre Medallion). The Bindi Is Used To Make Elephants, Peacocks , Flowers
And Geomaterial Shapes.