7tes2y3-Bonza! June 2019

Complete Pattern, Instructions and Illustrated Walkthrough for Building Your Own BONZA!
<pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
BONZA!
Bionic Gear Bag Pro 2.0
(The one you’ve been waiting for!)
An Official Sew Like a Rock Star Product
190613 Version - June 2019

Jess, "Lucky" and Joel
… Dedicated to family. We are strong.

Especially thinking of you, Jess…

Bionic Gear Bag Pro
BONZA!
Copyright © 2018, 2019 by Sally Thompson / Sew Like a Rock Star, LLC.
All rights reserved. Sharing or duplication of any part of this work in any kind is prohibited.
No part of this publication may be photocopied, digitally redistributed to anyone, nor reproduced in
any form (including writing on a whiteboard or paper for a class), nor stored in a retrieval system, nor
transmitted in any form or by any means without prior written permission of the publisher and author
- except in the case of brief quotations embedded in critical articles or reviews. For personal use only.
Info for non-profit organizations, or those desiring to teach classes, please write us at:
support@sewlikearockstar.com to get our support.
This work is protected by Federal Copyright Law and is for personal, non-commercial use only.
All instructions contained herein have been checked for accuracy and published in good faith.
However, publisher & author do not guarantee successful results and offer no warranty, either
express or implied. <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
Trademark notice: Instead of indicating every instance of the usage of a trademark name as such, this
publication uses the names only in an editorial fashion and to benefit the trademark owner with no
intention of infringement of the trademark.
Blank Pages/Formatting - This work was completed for copyright in book form. We apologize for any
sparse/blank pages in the PDF form that are due to the copyright process.
First Edition June 2019.
All content by Sally Thompson.
Published by Sew Like a Rock Star, LLC.

1605 Park Street, Castle Rock, CO. 80104
sewlikearockstar.com
READ ME FIRST
In PDF form, we believe this project is best viewed on a mobile device such as an iPad or Android Tablet.
Unless you love printed material, there is no reason to print the entire PDF - the following pages are the ones
that most people print:
• Cutting List
• Pattern Pieces for side (K)
• Divider Roadmap
• Peltex & Vinyl Cutting Guide
STAY IN THE LOOP!

Updates, Additional Goodies: Check sewlikearockstar.com for the latest about this project.
Special note: The Dumpling Dish contains the info about magnetic snap placement for this bag.
HAVING ISSUES WHEN PRINTING?
Due to the varying circumstances with every device, printer and OS configuration, we do not and cannot
support printing. What we will tell you: The PDF is absolutely accurate and will print if you use software and a
device that does NOT alter the PDF.
The sure way to get an accurately printed PDF pattern? BE SURE TO USE ADOBE Reader or Acrobat to print
from a “real” computer/laptop. Turn off all printer settings that could alter the PDF, such as “scale”, “fit to page”,
“borders”, etc.
From our experience: Outrageously, notoriously bad: mobile devices! All of them. Android, iPhones, iPads,
Tablets. Even if using Adobe apps.
BONZA!
Table of Contents
History of BONZA!.................................................................................................................9
Terms and Definitions...........................................................................................................12
Design Elements We Will Be Using...............................................................................13
Choose Your Design Elements..........................................................................................14
Road Map for the BONZA! Pockets or Dividers................................................15
Prepping Fabrics......................................................................................................................16
Before You Cut..........................................................................................................................17
Fabric Cutting Layouts.........................................................................................................18
Cutting List.........................................................................................................................20
My Reference Picture............................................................................................................21
About Our Videos...................................................................................................................22
Lining Assembly (Divider #1a)..........................................................................................23
Divider #1b - Installing Zipper on Back Side of Divider........................................26
Divider #1c - Installing Peltex, Topstitching...............................................................30
= Suggested pages to print
Divider #2 - Zipper Pocket..................................................................................................32

Divider #3 - Peltex Zipper Pocket with Elastic Tool Holders..............................35
Divider #4 - Peltex Divider - No Zipper, No Rod.......................................................37
Divider #5 - Zipper Pocket..................................................................................................38
Lining Assembly - Side Panel Prep..................................................................................39
Lining Assembly - Adding Side Panels..........................................................................43
Attaching Exterior..................................................................................................................47
Attaching Side Bindings - Temporary Seams.............................................................50
Attaching Side Bindings - 1/4" Seams............................................................................53

Attaching Side Bindings - Prep for Final Stitching..................................................56
Exterior Zipper Bindings - Install External Zipper..................................................60
Finishing!....................................................................................................................................62
BONZA! Pattern Piece K....................................................................................... 69-70
Peltex & Vinyl Guide.....................................................................................................71
A Note from Sally...
Welcome to the most “different” thank you letter you will probably ever read!
Over the years with the Bionic Gear Bag project, we have had an amazing response from many people that
enjoyed the project and the way it was delivered. And, most of the time, how it turned out! (There’s a
story behind the crazy way it’s written - it was an accident of sorts that I published the BGB like that - so hang
around the groups of ours - you’ll hear it - another time… lol). In the end, I make no excuses for it. You’ve
heard it: If it ain’t broke… yada yada…. The crazy success of the BGB speaks for itself and truly lets me know
that we can “keep it real”.
BUT…on the flip side, there are those rare people are just weaned on a sour pickle and have the need to
bellyache. Usually proclaiming to be an “expert”, they honk off loud and find some weird enjoyment in
slamming how we do things, the project, my team, my members, me, etc. Overall, we’ve come to learn they
are usually just really unhappy people that need to vent.
So this time, going in, let’s get some expectations out of the way, shall we? And, in exchange, I’ll do my
best to help alleviate the pain I cause some experts - lol.
We’re trying something new: When you see this little brainy guy with glasses - - it means we’re giving
you some additional info and/or tips to help you have a successful and enjoyable time with this project.
We want you to enjoy the process of creating with craftsmanship - and sometimes the little extras make all
the difference to help accomplish that and avoid frustrations. Side benefit? The cranky pants experts will have
an easy time skipping over all of the stuff they already know. We’d like the cranky pants out there to kindly
remember that once upon a time, they were a newbie, too.
So…. Are you new at sewing? Maybe scared of zippers? Hey, I love you and your courage to take a swing at
this project! That’s why ***we*** are here for you. From Sew A Longs to Workshops to enjoying the
camaraderie with other people from all over the world, we feel blessed and proud in “connecting the dots” for
so many people that love to sew. We hope you try our Facebook and Mighty Networks venues - if you’re not
with us there already. Discussions, Coupon Codes, New Goodies… find it all here:
facebook.com/groups/sewlikearockstar ...and … sew-like-a-rock-star.mn.co
Remember… sewing is just the “excuse” that brings us all together. And…
Any project is easy… if you just take it one seam at a time!
We appreciate you bein’ with us! We hope you enjoy your time with this project!
Thank you!
~Sally
History of BONZA!
Let’s talk about how the BONZA! came to be...
First, there was the Bionic Gear Bag:
The AUTHENTIC Bionic Gear Bag by Sally Thompson/RipStitcher was created in 2014. The pattern went viral!
The BGB won the Best Sewing Pattern award from Craftsy in 2014. It has been one of the top selling patterns
internationally for the past 5 years. Since its introduction and subsequent success, it’s been “knocked off ” many
times by other designers. The front “tray” is an original concept born with the introduction of the authentic
Bionic Gear Bag!
The Bionic Gear Bag is still well loved by many sewists out there - and we appreciate every customer that has
supported my team by buying the authentic patterns from us.
BONZA! v-190613 9
Then the Mojo bags came onto the scene...
Framed bags have been around forever - think of Dr Quinn’s bag or the men’s shave “dopp” bags of the 50s!
The Mojo Bag was created in 2017 when Sally wanted a framed makeup bag for herself.
At the time, there were no other patterns, nor the supply of rods available in the USA to make bags like this.
Sally’s son, Joel, made the first few rods she needed for her own use. When she showed the bag to the Rock Star
VIPs - it was an instant hit (and Joel got a new side business in the process!)
At the time of this writing, shop.sewmuchnicer.com has sold tens of thousands of rods in many different
sizes. The Mojo project is now one of the most popular projects amongst the members on
sewlikearockstar.com.
Joel and Sally have been putting much energy into this project as well as how to make variations (we call them
the Mojo Mods). Only the AUTHENTIC and ORIGINAL Mojo Bag patterns and tutorials contain many tips and
tricks that help even a new beginning sewist create a bag to be proud of!
Then the idea that led to BONZA! happened...
10 BONZA! v-190613
One day in 2018, while visiting Joel while he was making Mojo frames, Sally intercepted some scrap rod that Joel
was about to toss into the trash.
She had Joel cut that scrap rod to a length that she thought would work with the BGB. They were tested out by
using them to reinforce the exterior of one of her “boneyard” bags she had laying around. The “Boneyard” is a
stash of partially finished works that tend to accumulate when a second take is needed to create photos or videos
for the Rock Star workshops.
Here it is… notice the beautiful, straight finish the rod gives the “tray” as well as the exterior
when zipped up
The bag turned out AMAZING. Not bad for just a little test of an idea!
Now... the BONZA!

While the beloved BGB is still a sweet bag, in the past 4 years
there were things Sally knew could make it better… and those
are the new features of the BONZA!
To the right is the first completed member-made BONZA -

done at the Florida retreat in October, 2018 - made by our
“Sailboat Sandy”
Here are the features that make this bag AMAZING!
• Reinforced by heavy duty rods - exclusive to us!

• Reinforced dividers and pockets to improve versatility
• Sized to work with Bionic Needle Wallet and Scrap Bin Accessory
• Improved construction to give a lasting, crisp, great look!
So let’s get started!

BONZA! v-190613 11
Terms & Definitions
Before we get started… please breeze through these terms to become acquainted.
Accuracy Check: Pattern piece “K” has an accuracy check measurement on it. Make sure you have all set-
tings on your device and/or printer that could alter PDFs turned off - such as “scale”, “fit to page”, “borders”, etc.
The PDF is correct. If it prints differently, there is a setting altering it on your end.
Dimensions: It is universal nomenclature to have the last dimension given be that of “height”.
Unless otherwise stated, the pattern pieces’ width (from side to side of the bag) is indicated first, height is last.
Please note that if you want to change the width of your BONZA!, you simply have to change all of the 10” width
pieces that make up the lining assembly to whatever width you desire. Remember that this will change the zipper
and exterior binding lengths.
Right Side of Fabric: You may see “RS” used.

Wrong Side of Fabric: You may see “WS” used.
Front: Means the closest part of the bag if it were open and facing you.
Back: Means the farthest “hind end” of the bag when it is open and facing you.
Dividers: BONZA! Has 5 dividers that can be built to be just a divider or add a zipper to make a Zipper Pocket
(ZP) .
Pouches: The space created between the Zipper Pockets.
Seam Allowances: All final seam allowances are ¼”, and included in the pattern pieces’ dimensions.
No need to add seam allowances to any part.
Stitch Length: I suggest 3 mm to 3.5 mm for topstitching and temporary seams, 2mm for construction.
Use appropriate needle for your thread thicknesses.
Temporary Seams: When constructing seams that consist of more than 2 layers, temporary seams will help
you get better control. Stitch these at ⅛” seam allowance with a longer stitch.
Tray: This is the the box-like tray that is formed by the inside lining of the “B” piece when the bag is opened.
This is the original key feature of the Bionic Gear Bag!
Wonder Clips: To avoid confusion with “clipping” with a scissors, you may see “WC” used to describe Clover
brand Wonder Clips. We use these often instead of pins.
Zipper Pocket (ZP): You will see ZP used often. ZPs have zippers, “pouches” do not.
12 BONZA! v-190613
Design Elements We Will Be Using
This section is a guide to help you understand and think of some of the considerations
that come into play with this project.
For our example bag, the following items were used. Feel free to ignore, change, or move them around a bit.
Let’s go through them and shed some light on things to consider.
1. Exterior (“A” Piece): I love using selvedge edges. We have a video on our site - sewlikearockstar.com
that explains how to create this in an easy way. If you don’t save your selvedges before you start slicing and dicing
your new fabrics, you might want to start. I get loads of compliments on my bags that have been made with
selvedges over the years.
The selvedges are firm, as well as they are “tiled”, so they

create a nice thickness for exteriors. They are built on one
layer of SF101. Personally, I don’t add another layer of
interfacing - but you could if you want an even firmer feel to
your bag.
2. Dividers vs. Zipper Pockets

I chose to have:
• 2 plain zipper pockets (#2 and #5 positions)
• 2 Peltex reinforced zipper pockets (#1 and #3)
• 1 Divider (#4)
• Elastic tool holders on #3
• Vinyl window on #4
• Rod reinforcements for #1,2,3 and 5
3. “Why” I’m doing it this way:
• Divider #1: The Peltex on the front helps give a really

sharp, good look. I also like to put pins that I collect on my
bag… and that front is fun for that. Also, because I usually want to see the fabric design on the front of #1, as
well as I use a Needle Wallet, I don’t want to have a vinyl pocket on the front of #1.
I keep flat or little stuff in this little ZP. Most important: I keep my machine lint brush, tiny screwdriver, bandaids
(not that ***I*** ever need one!), lens cleaner wipes, etc inside that ZP.
• Divider #2: Just a typical ZP… good for a few things that won’t fit in my elastic bands.
• Divider #3: Important for this one to be reinforced to be sturdy enough to hold tools upright. This is the best
divider (in my opinion) for upright tools elastic because the room to the front of this divider will accommodate
the thickness of whatever tools I put in there vertically.
• Divider #4: Nice place to add a vinyl window - as it is supported well.
• Divider #5: Great place to hide cash from the family.

BONZA! v-190613 13
Choose Your Design Elements
Before you begin, let’s talk about the pouches that are formed between the dividers. Each was designed to serve a
purpose, and obviously you may do as you wish with yours. Please see the next page “Road Map”.
These suggestions are to help you create your own bag to serve your needs best.
Pouch between divider #1 and #2: It’s skinny and the front short to work well to hold shears.
Pouch between divider #2 and #3: Deepest one to hold all sorts of little things (easy to dig in!).
Pouch between divider #3 and #4: Holds thread spools well - especially with bobbins stored on top.
Pouch between divider #4 and #5: Sized to hold Needle Wallet and Scrap Bin Accessory.
Choices! You have some to consider:
1. Width of bag: You will see that this bag was created with a 10” width. This is relatively simple to alter.
If you choose to change the width, just remember that it will also alter the length of zippers needed, rod size, etc.
2. Exterior “A” Piece: If you decide to piece, quilt or create some other exterior for your bag, just make sure you
create it big enough to have the final cut meet the specifications in the cutting instructions.
Batting: Skip using interfacing on “A” if you use batting.
3. Dividers vs Zipper Pockets (ZPs): You have 5 dividers to decide how you would like them to work!
Possibilities for each:
• Zipper Pockets (ZP): Created with “ZP Lining” pieces (H, I or J) and best when reinforced with a rod on the
backside. You will need one zipper longer than 10” (it will be trimmed to 10”) for each ZP.
#1 was meant to hold items such as packs of needles (if you haven’t made your Needle Wallet yet!), bandaids, lens
cleaning wipes, skinny rulers, small implements like machine lint brush & screwdriver, etc. This ZP is short to
make it easier to retrieve these sorts of items as well as making it visually appealing and easy to access scissors/
shears in the pouch behind it.
• Peltex Reinforced Zipper Pockets: Peltex is used on the front to give firmness for other accessory add-ons
(such as the elastic bands, pencil loops, etc) to be well supported. One zipper needed for each, as well as a rod
should be installed, too.
• Dividers (no zippers): A layer of Peltex between the lining. Rod usually not necessary.
4. Elastic Tool holders: Works well on divider #3

5. Clear Vinyl Window/Pocket: Works well on any divider or Peltex reinforced ZP.
6. Double pull zippers! These are very attractive as well as functional. If you shop for your #4.5 exterior zipper
from shop.sewmuchnicer.com , consider buying extra pulls (or another zipper or two to “steal” pulls from)
and check out our free “Fork U” video on sewlikearockstar.com for a cool trick on how to swap out the pulls.
14 BONZA! v-190613
Road Map for the BONZA! Pockets or Dividers
Making your BONZA! to suit your creative style

Everyone loves to make a bag “their own” to suit their own needs.
This Road Map is a “guideline” of placement for your choices of using zipper pockets, placement of dividers and
use of vinyl as well as elastic.
It is your option on where to place these elements.
Notice the Rod placements at 1, 2, 3, & 5.

BONZA! Rods are available at our store: shop.sewmuchnicer.com
© 2015-2019 Sally Thompson, Sew Like a Rock Star, LLC.

All rights reserved.
No copying, no redistribution without written permission.
Personally building and selling finished project is encouraged
BONZA! v-190613 15
Prepping Fabrics
To prewash, or not to prewash?
Personally, I usually had not prewashed fabrics for a project like this..
But for this one, I DID pre-wash because I intend to also use some of these fabrics in a quilt, too.
Unexpected side benefit to pre-washing: Washing away chemicals that are in the fabrics from
manufacturing probably makes for a healthier hobby! Personally, I usually cough when pressing new fabric.
But I didn’t have any issues whatsoever when I was working with this big pile of fabrics that have been pre-
washed. I think I’m a believer… I’ll be prewashing from now on - if nothing else, to reduce irritants in the air!
Please see our FREE essentials video on sewlikearockstar.com on a cool way to prewash/prep your fabrics
without creating a stringy mess in the washer.
Adding your fabric layout <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
for the BONZA!
Before I start cutting, I plan out

where I want the fabrics to land.
I mark each fabric with the

pattern piece letter using a pin like
you see here as I’m imagining how
I want my bag to look.
After cutting, always put the

pin in the upper right hand
corner of the fabric piece to keep
the orientation correct.
16 BONZA! v-190613
Before You Cut
If you are using fat quarters or scraps, etc. - Consider cutting your largest pieces first.
This is a fat quarter friendly project - with the exception of the bindings or if you have to fussy cut or if you
possibly have to deal with directional prints along the way. Think ahead.
Most bags are made to be interesting by using multiple different fabric designs for visual variety.
Grain/Stretch of fabric - For this project (unlike the Bionic Gear Bag, if you’ve made that one) you will want
to be very accurate with the lining zipper installations. Because of the rods, you won’t be able to “square up” or
trim excess away when you get the entire lining assembly done.
It is important that the edge of the fabric that runs with the zippers “behaves” and the pieces A-G all act like
each other as it relates to stretch. Before you cut the pieces A - G, test your fabric by giving it a little stretch.
Cut your fabric so the width (the 10” side) of these pieces has the least stretch as possible.
Interfacing: Just cut the interfacing pieces about ¼” smaller all the way around to avoid creating bulkiness
in some of the final seams. Not to mention that it helps to avoid goobering up your iron with fusible goo.
Oh… by the way… there’s nothing wrong with pleasing your frugal inner self by using up scraps of
interfacing on these lining assembly pieces (B-G, and K). However, I’d shy away from having overlapping
interfacing on a project piece when the piece is going to show (like an exterior) and the fabric is light in color.
The line of overlap of the interfacing could possibly show through.
Shown before fusing:
BONZA! v-190613 17
Fabric Cutting Layouts
These layouts are just suggested.
For the cotton, most people use many different fabrics for interest.
If you do use this layout, it will usually work for directional fabrics. If your fabric is not directional, you may be
able to flip that “K” piece around a bit and save some fabric.
18 BONZA! v-190613
Above: Layout for SF101. This layout
works for the SF101 when using two
layers for “A”.
No SF101 needed for “A” if you are

using batting.
Right: Layout for Peltex. This is for

our example bag.
BONZA! v-190613 19
Cutting List
20 BONZA! v-190613
My Reference Picture
Prepped and Ready to Sew!

After going thru the brain damage of figuring out where you want your zippers, etc, it’s a good idea to just
take a pic with your phone so you can remember where you decided to put all of your parts! My studio space is
relatively small, so I keep my projects in their own baskets.
Once I was pleased with my choice of fabrics for this project, I snapped a pic before tossing all of those parts in a
basket. Because, for sure, as I’m sewing, I won’t remember what order I was going to use those zippers, etc.
It’s great to use a pic for reference:
BONZA! v-190613 21
About Our Videos
Did you know that we have a GREAT video Sew A Long recorded that will get you through all of the steps for
BONZA! from here on out? For access, you have choices :
1. Join our Sally’s Sew-A-Long (SSAL) Invitation Group (see events on sewlikearockstar.com)
As you see above, we have a great time together working on projects with a state of the art meeting/camera sys-
tem! We enjoy a fun time, face-to-face, in real time!
You missed the live one for this project - although we may do it again. But don’t miss out on future projects!
Get invited to every one we do!
We also do SPONTANEOUS Sew A Longs very frequently - check the site and our discussion groups for more
info!
2. Own the Mastery Workshop for BONZA! (If you are in the SSAL Invite Group, you are able to
buy workshops for 70% off!)
3. Be a VIP. Our most popular program! Get access to all recordings and PDFs on the site as well as other
valuable discounts, interactive social fun sessions, and MORE.
Learn more about the VIP benefits here! sew.sewlikearockstar.com/vip-membership
Check our social media venues and your most recent email from us (you ARE on our mailing list, aren’t you? -
Don’t miss out!) for COUPON CODES.
22 BONZA! v-190613
Lining Assembly! - Divider #1a
Installing Zipper on Front Side
We will be using this for reference - we will be coming back to it later.
Parts needed for this divider: “B”, “H”, zipper #1, plain rod (no rubber cap) and Peltex for #1.
Use skinny sewing machine foot - or zipper foot.
Step 1. We are doing the FRONT SIDE of this zipper installation on Divider #1.
(You will be repeating this step 3 more times and referring back to this).
Stack your parts in this order:

• “B” right side up, top away from you.
• Zipper #1: face down, head of zipper to your left.
• “H” wrong side up, top away from you (if fabric directional)
(Peltex happens later).
Center zipper on fabric.

Let those ends dangle.
Carefully match up the ends of the ZP Lining

(H this time) to the Lining Piece (B this time).
Ends must match up and stay matched up
when sewing.
Sew ¼” seam with construction length stitch (about 2mm). Make sure nothing shifts!
Press.
BONZA! v-190613 23
Now the Tips!
Notice only one pin used pin INSIDE the seam allowance to help you get the first few stitches sewn before
needing to remove the pin.
Use Wonder Clips for the rest of the seam - easy to work with and
they don’t distort the layers like pins can.
The SALLY PERFECT ZIPPER TRICK: Look carefully at the

pictures. See the little bit of purple of the zipper tape peeking through those
layers? That is intentional! The edge of your zipper is THE reference point for
making this seam. It is the ONLY reference point you should keep your eye on.
Don’t worry much about the layers of fabric… if you sew a clean, ¼” seam with
your eye on that zipper, you won’t be disappointed in your finished result.
If the stitches stray from being straight with the edge of the zipper, you’re going
to notice it in your finished result. <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
If the stitches are straight with the edge of the zipper, but the edge of the fabric
shifts slightly, you won’t notice the fabric being off a smidge.
Use this tip when doing any skinny piece in your projects - this works on bind-
ings, too - keep your eye on the skinniest part that you’re
sewing.
Audition! Before making the first stitch, hold your work in your hand and turn that ZP lining as if it were
sewn in. See the zipper head flip to the top and your ZP lining will look as if it were sewn in. Does it look right?
Cool, go ahead and sew. This beats seam ripping!
We have GREAT videos for this… have you

checked sewlikearockstar.com?
Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment.

(We also have videos on this subject on the site)
Basically, if your work “bulldozes” consider
lightening up your presser foot pressure
adjustment.
For most of my machines, I lower this setting by

about 50% of what the default setting is.
This really helps!
24 BONZA! v-190613
Painter’s Tape!
I’m on a new machine. On my other machines, I use
the foot as my guide for the ¼”.
But on this one? Noooooooo. This machine (a Juki..

again, check out our videos about this machine!) has
DIVINELY skinny feed dogs and feet. So this old dog
needs a new trick - I have to force myself to watch the
markings on the needle plate and that doesn’t come
easy for me.
So I used painter’s tape to mark off the ¼”.
The tape will come off clean and not harm your
machine in any way.
Move the zipper pull/head out of your way.

Never sew around it. Ever.
If you come up to it in a seam, just stop with your <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
needle down, lift your presser foot, move the pull out
of the way, line up your work again carefully, put your
presser foot down… and carry on.
Starters and enders.

I sew on and off of a scrap frequently, for lots of reasons. We have videos on this, too, on sewlikearockstar.com
Pressing.
Be neat about it. When
you are done with a step,
pressing is what will make
your project shine with
craftsmanship and also
make the next steps easier
to accomplish.
Edges should match up on

the sides. This is
important…
If they don’t, you will

regret it later!
BONZA! v-190613 25
Divider #1b - Installing Zipper on Back Side of Divider
This step will be repeated - we will be referring back to it later.
Parts needed:
Lining assembly to this point.
“C”
“H”
Stack your parts:
“H” right side up, upper right corner away from you.
Lining assembly to this point - right side up, top right corner away from you.
- - - Zipper head will be up this time.
“C” face down, and upside down (so C and B are right sides together).
BE SURE that your ends are matched up.
- - - Note: your upper right corner marker on the piece you are adding should be on the bottom right now.
This is because, after it is sewn, that corner will be the “up” on the front of the next divider.
See pic and compare to what you have in your hands before sewing. Use the tips you learned in #1a to help you
make this awesome. <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
If you sew with the interfaced fabric on top, you will reduce the amount of possible bulldozing/
shifting of the top layer.
26 BONZA! v-190613
The layers before sewing
All edges are on the “up” side of the zipper, remember. The pic above doesn’t show that the “H” you are add-
ing has it’s top raw edge lined up with the zipper like we did in 1a .
Sew. Press.
Do not topstitch - yet. Should look like the pic on the next page when you finish this step.
On to dealing with that Peltex!
BONZA! v-190613 27
More Tips - You know, the ones that crabby-pants experts don’t need.
Notice how even the seam is to the zipper teeth. That’s because the teeth are even with the edge of the
zipper tape that we have been using as a reference! Cool, huh?
Also note that the ZP linings are wrong sides towards us. When you open up the zipper, the right
sides of the ZP Lining (H this time) will be there to greet you. Yay.
PS.. Working under a deadline after just coming home from a 10 day trip didn’t leave time to get the nails done before doing
these pics! Ugh! My bad!
28 BONZA! v-190613
I decided to try another foot on that machine… I’m not a fan of the zipper foot that came with this machine, so
this is a different one. Worked great… I like it!
Notice how edges of the fabric of the seam I am just finishing match up with the layers from the previous step.
BONZA! v-190613 29
Divider #1c - Installing Peltex, Topstitching
Parts Needed for this Step: Nudge the top of the Peltex up to the seam.
Fold “B” smoothly back over the Peltex.
Peltex cut as directed for divider #1.
Make sure all layers (H, Peltex, C) are smooth.
Working on your pressing surface, open the layer in the
FRONT of divider #1.
Press Peltex into place.
Center the Peltex on top of the seam created with the
zipper install.
Topstitch on either side of the zipper with a 3mm stitch.
Make sure you don’t have bubbles/ripples/gaps/other gnarliness on the H piece between the Peltex and the zipper
seam. When pressed, it all has to fit snugly up against that zipper seam.
Also note the raw edges of the zipper seam are to the rear of the Peltex. This will help give a really pretty,
smooth look to the front divider (#1) in your finished bag.
Topstitching: Consider using a stitch in the ditch/edge joining foot on your machine (yes.. we have free
videos about doing this, too, on sewlikerockstar.com).
Make Rod Casing: On C (and only C - and sewing thru H on the C side, too), make a second row of stitching
down ⅜” below the topstitching line.
Create Zipper Pocket - Sewing Bottom
Fold carefully at the zipper.

Make sure fold is with zipper teeth being evenly “up”.
Mark a line 2.5” down from the top of the

fabric fold at the zipper.
This line should be just lower than

the ridge of the Peltex layer.
30 BONZA! v-190613
Front of your Divider #1 - Peltex Zipper Pocket
Stitch through all 4 layers (B, H, H, C), forming

bottom of ZP #1 using 3mm pretty stitches.
Move zipper pull to middle of the pocket.
Insert plain rod (one without the rubber caps) into

the casing on C.
Make temporary side seam stitches using 3mm

stitches ⅛” away from raw edges starting at the
bottom seam you just made and then going up and
over the zipper teeth to secure the ends of the zipper
- and nudging the rod out of the way before stitching
across the casing.
Trim zipper ends off.
And on the backside - “C” of this divider, <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
your first rod is in!
Notice the King Tut Thread… I love the variegated colors for topstitching!
You now have your first Peltex Zipper Pocket completed!
On to Divider #2…
BONZA! v-190613 31
Divider #2 - Zipper Pocket (simple - no frills)
Parts needed: Front Side of Divider #2:
Lining assembly to this point. (“B” thru “C”) Stack your parts as you learned in 1a…
Zipper #2 This time:
“I” “C” right side up, zipper #2 head down,
Plain rod - no rubber cap on this one. “I” right side down
If you are having any problems with shifting or

bulldozing, consider flipping your work over (when
needed) and starting on the other end so the interfaced
fabric side is up. <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
Having the interfacing side against your sewing

machine foot helps reduce bulldozing,
The reason for this: Just think, that bottom layer is

getting hauled through the sewing machine by the feed
dogs. There’s nothing helping the top layer feed, so the
top layer is being dragged along for the ride.
By having the interfacing side up, it helps stabilize the

top layer a little and reduce how easy it is for the front
of your sewing machine foot to push that cotton layer.
Sew. Press.
Be proud.
Are your side ends

matching up as we
go along?
Remember, that’s
important.
32 BONZA! v-190613
Rules to remember when putting in zippers like this:
1. There are always two pieces of fabric
2. The zipper always goes in between them
3. Audition before you stitch. If it’s hinky, better to find out now than to have to rip, Baby!
Back Side of Divider #2:
Stack as you learned in 2b.

This time:
“I” right side up, Zipper is heads up, “D” upside down (if directional) and face down.
This should be getting easier..

Here’s a cheat pic to help you along
BONZA! v-190613 33
• Sew. Admire. Press. Admire some more.
• Go ahead and topstitch this time - we’re not messing with Peltex on this one.
• Make the rod casing like we did on the first divider, on the back, on “D”.
• Measure down 3.5” this time from the fold. Make a pretty line.
• Make pretty top stitches to seal up the bottom of this ZP on your marking line.
• Move your zipper head to the middle.
• Sew one temporary side seam (⅛” remember) from the bottom seam to over the zipper teeth.
• Insert the rod.
• Make the second temporary side seam.
Voila! Zipper Pocket on Divider #2 is done - and should look somethin’ like this:
On to #3...
34 BONZA! v-190613
Divider #3 - Peltex Zipper Pocket with Elastic Tool Holders
Parts needed:
“E”.
Zipper #3.
“J” Pocket Linings.
Peltex cut to directions.
Plain Rod (no rubber end caps).
Assemble this Divider:

Read first:
This is ALMOST identical to the same techniques steps we did in 1a, 1b, 1c.
The difference… when we get to the step where we install the Peltex, we are - very gingerly - fuse just the front
side of it without catching the ZP lining.
Then, we will attach the elastic strips (this is optional, you may skip this if you’d like).
By attaching them at this stage, the stitches on the backside can be hidden by the ZP Lining.
So go ahead… sew to the <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
point of adding the Peltex.

This is how it should look:
You should be able to pick
up the whole B-D lining
assembly and the Peltex
should only be sticking to
the rear side of “D”. The rear
side of “D” creates the front
side of Divider #3.
You only need to fuse it just

enough so the Peltex sticks
to “D”, and doesn’t shift
around.
We will be sewing those

elastic bands on… and the
stitching from that will keep
this part secure.
BONZA! v-190613 35
Next, arrange your lining assembly so that the ZP linings are laying on the “E” side of the zipper.
Place some cute elastic down with a few pins. Do not stretch the elastic - you’re going to want it to be able to
stretch around your implements.
I placed my elastic 1.5” and 3.5” down from the top fold of “D” fabric at the zipper.
Next, if you’re picky, place a few tools you intend to house on this panel and make some marks* for where the
stitching would best serve you. Be sure to leave enough room for your items to fit easily under the bands.
Then,
go to your machine and just stitch these down at
your marks.
Also stitch the ends of the elastics at the ⅛”

mark - so they will behave when you attach the
side panels
* I like Sewline Air Erase pens… the ink

automatically goes away within hours… and never
comes back!
Finish this divider the same way you finished

Divider #1 - don’t forget the rod casing!
The ZP / divider bottom measurement to finish up

the bottoms for all of the remaining dividers is 5”.
Ta Da!
Lots of tips, tricks, and ways to do things a

little easier are on sewlikearockstar.com
On to #4….
36 BONZA! v-190613
Divider #4 - Peltex Divider - No Zipper, No Rod
Parts Needed for this Step:
“F”.
Peltex cut to directions on Peltex Guide Sheet.
Note: A vinyl window can easily be added to this divider. See site or chat in one of our social media venues for
more details.
This one is super-easy.

Sew a ¼” seam to attach current Lining Assembly to “F”.
Press seam to “F” side.
Place Peltex as was done in the previous two dividers.
Sew bottom seam at 5” from top.
Top stitch top.
Sew temporary side seams.
Pretty, pretty stitches
On to our final Divider!

BONZA! v-190613 37
Divider #5 - Zipper Pocket (simple - no frills)
This one is done EXACTLY like #2, except it’s 5” deep
Parts needed:
Lining assembly to this point. (“B” thru “F”).
Zipper #4.
“G”.
“J” - last set! ZP pocket linings.
Plain rod - no rubber cap on this one.
Simply go back and do #2 again….
What a fun pile of color moving through my

machine!
Thank you, Alison Glass, King Tut Thread

and shop.sewmuchnicer.com for the zippers
that total up to make this fabulous selection of
yummy colors!
Again.. Ta Da!
All of the lining pockets are in...
This pic looks a little wonky, but I promise

everything is straight and it’s going to look
GREAT!
On to the side panels…
38 BONZA! v-190613
Lining Assembly - Side Panel Prep
Get out your K pieces!

Grab your Best Press - hope you use it - it’s great for this step!
Crank your iron up!
Parts needed:
“K” pieces.
Pattern for “K”.
Before you start, MAKE SURE your “K” pattern piece passes the ACCURACY TEST that is on the pattern
piece and also talked about in the definitions. If that piece isn’t correctly printed, you will hate yourself for not
checking this now instead of later.
In my example, the green fabric will be the exterior of my sides.

The blue (interfaced) will wind up on the inside side (facing the lining assembly) of my sides.
I interface the inside-side so that when I add a snapped-in Dumpling Dish the fabric will be well supported.
Prep
First, we’re going to prep the sides… <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
Using one interior “K”, and one exterior “K”, right sides
together…
Start by stitching the three straight, top sides as shown.

Then clip the two stitched corners. I folded the side so the
corners could be enlarged.
Turn, and press.
BONZA! v-190613 39
Then using a 3mm stitch, go all the way around the turned piece.
This creates top stitching on the sides you stitched,
and temporary side seams on those raw edges.
Clip off that gnarly little corner of seam allowance that was sticking out!
Pressing Pleats
Using your pattern piece, place a pin sticking out at the

EXACT point on the bottom to mark the pleat fold lines.
Do this for all 5 bold “fold” lines.
Tip: Place your pattern piece to line up with the back

(still raw edge) of the fabric piece to get
an accurate placement.
40 BONZA! v-190613
We are going to use these pins to create a precise, sharp fold.
Off to the ironing board….
Just fold over - making the crease at the pin. Line up the top and bottom sides. Eyeball it.
Achieve a 90 degree corner at the pin. Hit it with some Best press.
Press well to make a sharp pleat crease.
BONZA! v-190613 41
Repeat for all 5 pleat creases.
Simply make sure the pins were placed accurately, and your creases are parallel to each
other and 90 degrees to the top and bottom edges.
When done, it should look like this… with your pleats facing outward to the exterior side of your side
panels. Remember, green is my outside-side and the blue is my interior side:
Repeat the Prep steps for the other side.

Make sure you reverse the pleats so both sides have creases pointing out.
Now we’re ready to sew them on!
42 BONZA! v-190613
Lining Assembly - Adding Side Panels
Now we sew the side panels on to the Lining Assembly!
Before going forward, please make sure your “K” pattern piece passed the Accuracy
Check for size. If it did not, STOP and go back and make sure your “K” is the correct size.
I’m here to tell you, this is easier to learn how to do well by watching it done in a video than it is by looking at
pictures! Consider getting access to our Sew-A-Long videos for this!
Parts needed:
“K” pieces.
Pattern for “K”.
Your Lining Assembly made up of parts B-G
Starting with the right side (with the front of the bag facing you), give all of your rods a little nudge to the left to
stay out of your way.
Start with pleat #2 from the front.

Place the 2nd Divider (made from C & D lining pieces) into the pleat.
Match the bottom of the side panel to the stitching line that makes up the bottom of divider #2.
By starting with #2, you’ll have an easier time

manipulating #1 on this side.
Note detail in second pic below - I used a marker

to show the bottom stitching line clearly.
BONZA! v-190613 43
Detail of stitching
DO NOT stitch lower than the stitching

line that makes up the bottom of the
divider.
Be sure to push the rod in this divider to

the left so your machine can get past it
easily.
Stitch the pleat with a ¼” seam -

stitching all the way up and taking one
stitch over the top of the pleat and then
reversing back down a little ways before
you clip threads. <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
This avoids thread gnarliness at the top

of your pleats.
44 BONZA! v-190613
For a totally clean finish, snip those threads and hit with a tiny bit of Fray Check.
Or.. If you really love a needle and thread, leave a long tail and bury the tails with a needle.
Repeat the same procedure for pleats around

dividers #1, #3, #4 and #5 on this right side.
When you finish with putting the dividers in the pleats,

give your work a little stretch and see if the side raw
edges match up with the bottom of the pouches (the
pouches are between the ZPs/Dividers, remember).
And yes.. I’m flying solo here tonight doing these

pictures. The only way I could pull the side to show you
what I’m talkin’ about was to clamp one end of the work
on my thumb nail with a binder clip!
Hope you get the idea.
BONZA! v-190613 45
Please know.. If something is wrong at this point and these
edges don’t line up properly, the pouches are sagging or
too small to match your side panel, it is best to stop and
figure out the issue and correct it before doing the other
side or attempting to go farther.
Remember, our social media venues are extremely helpful

if you run into any issues. We have an awesome group of
people as well as my team is here for you… and I try to
pop in to our Facebook and Mighty Network groups a few
times a day.
If you’re good, and you are ready for the other side…
On the left side, you can just start with #1 and go through
all 5 pleats in order.
Remember to shove those rods to the left before sewing.

When you have both sides on, it should look like this.
Bottom of Lining Assembly - Temporary Side Seam.
Starting on right side:

Move the rods to the left to help make this step

a little easier to manipulate.
As you stitch, secure the pleats so they face the

rear.
Stitch ⅛” temporary seam starting just behind
the 5th pleat and stitching forward to the front
of the bag, ending at the front point of the side
piece.
Tip: Only focus on stitching about 1” at a time,

carefully moving so you are securing the raw
edges. You won’t be able to get the whole side
of the bag to “behave”, but just stitching about
1” at a time is not difficult.
Once you complete the seam to the front, then

go back and stitch up the back.
Repeat for other side. When finished, you now have something that actually is starting to look like a bag!
The biggest benefit of taking the time to do these temporary seams is that you will now have a much easier time
attaching the exterior and bindings in the same way. You don’t have to be concerned about all of those layers
shifting.
46 BONZA! v-190613
Attaching Exterior
Step one:
Take a moment to give your exterior a “test fit”. Temporarily attach the Exterior to the Lining Assembly
with Wonder Clips - working your way out from those
The 10” by 20” “A” piece should fit with extra lining half way points.
on the front and back to trim off.
Before stitching this down, does it fit symmetrically?
The excess lining should be about 3 inches too big - if In other words, is the left over lining on the front and
you were accurate with your ¼” seams all the way back a rectangle that has parallel sides? Or is it wonky?
through the project.
If you’re square, we’re good to move on…
Start by folding the exterior in half - from front to
back. Mark this half way point with a pin. If it’s wonky, you should try to find out where it is not
even - You don’t want ripples or puckers - try to get it
The half way point on the sides is the stitching of the smoothed out and get it symmetrical before moving on.
3rd pleat.
And here are my front and back ends - before

trimming.
Here’s mine, ready for temporary seam stitches <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
The image might not be the best, but the sections I am
down the sides... going to trim off are symmetrical- so all is good.
Front
Back
Mine passes the test to move on. Here we go!

BONZA! v-190613 47
Next Steps
Sew temporary side seams.

Trim excess lining pieces off.
Toss two rods (with the rubber ends) down in between the layers of the Lining Assembly and the Exterior.
Seriously! I probably should explain, huh?
All kidding aside, once the sides are on with the temporary stitching, and we have trimmed the excess lining off,
the next step will be to sew the front and back ends with temporary stitching lines, too.
Before that happens, we do need to have the exterior rods (with the rubber caps) available to be put into
position. We have tried about 4 different methods to do this- and honestly, one of our members had the idea of
just dropping them into that space! This method works wonderfully - it’s easy to move the rods out of the way
while dealing with side bindings and installing the exterior zipper and those bindings, too.
After all of that is done, the last step is just to slide those rods into position and stitch the last side of casing.
We’ll get to it… but just letting you know it is all going to work out just fine!
So here is mine with temporary side seams, exterior rods dropped into space between Lining Assembly and
Exterior, front and back ends closed with temporary seams, and front and back excessive lining on B and G
trimmed away.
48 BONZA! v-190613
Front
Back
BONZA! v-190613 49
Attaching Side Bindings - Temporary Seams
This is another section that makes me wish you were seeing this done instead of having a handful of
photos that don’t begin to show what can be done in a video!
Craftsmanship really shows on a crafted project when it comes to how the little “finishing touches” (such
as
bindings, handles, closures) were accomplished.
In the case of bindings, these can be done beautifully, and relatively easily… if a person just has the
right mindset, slows down, has the right tools for the job and takes the care needed.
So let’s do this thing!
Considerations:
It’s worth stopping at this point - before going on - and making sure that your bag is “Binding Worthy”
Is your bag well made to this point? Are the side seams clean and neat?
- - - If not, maybe a bit of a trim would help before trying to attach binding.
Are the temporary seams on your bag’s sides well within the ¼” seam allowance?
- - - They need to be. Get out your seam ripper and clean them up a bit if you need to.
Got any mega lumps or bumps that shouldn’t be there? Try to smooth them out.
Steps in this section:

• Prep: Press your bindings lengthwise-be accurate about it.
• Push rods to the left to make it easier to manipulate the next seams
• While sewing, feel for the loose rods & make sure they are at least an inch out of your way.
• Temporary Seam: Beat those bindings into submission by getting them secured to your bag with a
temporary seam that is at about ⅛” in from the edge of the binding.
• Repeat for other side.
Tip: Like was done with the zipper in- Tip: Use a foot that has little or no “foot”
stalls, make sure you are using the edge of to the left of the needle, while also main-
your binding as the reference point for your taining good contact with the feed dogs. You
eye as you stitch - for all of the same reasons want good, effective traction through the next
that the technique works well on the zippers, it steps. De-center your needle if you have to.
works on skinny parts like binding.
50 BONZA! v-190613
Here’s me getting started...
I love this foot on this machine!
It’s a ¼” zipper-type foot for the Juki.
It gives good contact while having zero

cumbersome clunky bulk to the left of the
needle.
In the picture below, I am now up to the “bumps”

of the side pleats. This picture illustrates how to
push down about 1-2 inches at a time in front of
the needle.
Also notice that to the left of the below picture,

only an inch or so of the project to the left of the
needle needs to lay flat.
There is no need or reason to struggle to try to get

more of the project to lay flat - because - it won’t!
Not with those rods in there! Just know, the rods
do NOT cause a problem if you tackle these seams
<pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars> this way. A video is worth a 1,000 pictures as far as
that goes.
We show this being done in the Sally’s Sew-A-Long

videos for this project - if you have access to it, you
might want to go watch it if you have any
problems. I hear they have helped lots of people
with this step.
This illustrates that this is not difficult to
sew if you just work with a few
inches at a time.
BONZA! v-190613 51
This next pic shows the other temporary stitches
that are still showing after I sewed down the side
binding with temporary stitches.
All of these are still within the normal ¼” seam

allowance - so they won’t be a problem.
But if you have some that are extending into the

project beyond the ¼” allowance, you should
remove them at this time.
As you can see, the temporary seams don’t need

to be perfect! The seam below is well within the
¼” seam allowance.
Please notice that the edge of the binding is very

even to the edge of the other layers of fabric in
the body of the project.
The next step will be to go back over this line of stitching with the ¼” accurate seam - which is really quite easy
to do - and accurately - because all of these layers of temporary seams have held the different parts of the project
together very well.
52 BONZA! v-190613
Attaching Side Bindings - ¼” Seams
This is an important step - and it wouldn’t be possible without the previous temporary seams we laid down when
we made side panels, the divided lining assembly, and when we attached the exterior.
By adding the binding to all of these layers with a temporary seam (done in previous step), it allows for us to
totally focus on getting a good, clean ¼” seam at this point.
Considerations:
Are you using the best foot for the job? You will appreciate having good traction and control in this step.
Got more than one machine? One has skinnier feed dogs than the other? Try the skinny feed dog one!
Are all of the temporary seams on your bag’s sides well within the ¼” seam allowance?
This is last call on those, they need to be. Get out your seam ripper and clean them up a bit if you need to.
You don’t want them to show after this step.
This seam must be as accurate as possible to lay the foundation for being able to do the final stitching accurately.
The stitching line made in this seam is the guideline for folding over the binding and doing the final stitching.
If it is “off ”, the boo-boos will show two or three steps from now. You have really put a good amount of effort
into this project, let’s make sure we finish it off beautifully!
Steps in this Section:

• Construction stitch - 2mm
• Push rods to the left to make it easier to manipulate the next seams
• While sewing, feel for the loose rods & make sure they are at least an inch out of your way.
• Use only the raw edge of the binding as your reference point.
• If a slight amount of the other fabrics used (exterior, side panels, etc) sticks out, don’t fret about it while
sewing… just trim it when you get done with this seam.
Pics & Tips for this Step

Accurate ¼” seam will hide the previous temporary seams inside the seam allowance.
BONZA! v-190613 53
When going around a curve, the only important place to make
sure is at the accurate ¼” mark is where the needle is!
Don’t borrow trouble… don’t worry about what is in front of the foot
too much. Just do a stitch at a time if you need to maintain control.
If you can’t make the curve easily, just make a stitch or two, stop
needle down, lift the foot, move the project so the next 3-4 stitches
will be ok, put the foot down, sew those stitches and then repeat as
necessary.
The extra few seconds you take to do this (when needed) will make a
huge difference in the end result.
Also, notice the fabric of the binding bunching up to the left of

the needle.
This is OK! The only important thing is that the needle is going down and only catching the appropriate layers at
that ¼” mark.
Before moving on to the next step, it’s a good idea to go all the way around your binding, folding it over, to
make sure that no previous temporary stitches are peeking through (on either side) and that the binding will
cover the ¼” stitching that holds it in place.
This next pic of the exterior - and over the bumps of the pleats. I needed to trim just a little away on one of the
bumps so the binding would fold over evenly.
54 BONZA! v-190613
Exterior side after ¼” seam is in place. The binding is covering the stitching beautifully.
If the stitching shows through, and you can’t get the binding to cover the stitches, then perhaps a little
trim of raw edge is in order.
Once you have verified that the binding will fold over properly, you’re ready for the next step…
BONZA! v-190613 55
Attaching Side Bindings - Prep for Final Stitching
Now that you know your binding will fold nicely, a good way to fold it accurately as well as hold it in place for
stitching is the use of Elmer’s School Glue (washable) in a syringe with Wonder Clips.
Considerations
We will be using the last stitching line as the guide for folding over the binding.
When folded over snugly, and the folded edge of the binding covers the stitching line, you can expect about a ⅜”
finished binding on the exterior side
The binding needs to be able to fold over and cover its own stitching line.
- - - If you haven’t already, check this out before starting this step - you’ll be glad you did.
If you have excessive thickness or your ¼” seam wound up being a little “fat”, don’t be afraid to trim the raw
edges down so you will be able to cover over the stitching line and achieve about a ⅜” binding.
By achieving at least a ⅜” on the “loose” side that we are gluing down, you will have an easier time “catching” the
folded edge of the binding with the next step - stitching it down.
Steps in this Section: <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
• Folding over binding

• Secure in place with Elmer’s Washable School Glue
• Clamping down and creating an even, accurate binding by using the markings on the Wonder Clips
Pics & Tips for this Step:
No need for excessive amounts of glue. Only a

small amount is needed to keep the binding in
place when you sew the final stitching.
There is a link to these syringes on

sewlikearockstar.com.
Likewise, we also have a video that talks about

the use of the school glue and the syringes - and
how to fill them, etc.
Tip: If a little glue leaks out from under the edge of the binding, just scrape it off right away. If you find a
little blob somewhere later, no worries. A damp washcloth will remove this glue easily. Same thing goes if you
find “dents” in your binding from the Wonder Clips - after you stitch, a little mist of water or damp washcloth
will plump the dents away.
56 BONZA! v-190613
Fold over evenly to cover previous stitching.
The syringe makes it easy to get in those little tiny places with the glue! Use marks on the Wonderclips to achieve
a consistent width of binding as you go along.
I use the bottom of the metal clip as my measuring guide.
BONZA! v-190613 57
Give it a rest for about 30 minutes before removing the clips.
When dry, remove the clips and sew…
Sewing the Binding

I usually use the same thread in my needle and in my bobbin. I usually stitch in the ditch or stitch on the free
edge of the binding. For this one, I thought I’d try something that might work well for people that are a little
freaked out about the stitches showing.
I used a clear polyester in the bobbin… MonoPoly by Superior. Winding that bobbin was like working with a
very long strand of hair!
I will say, I used a starter and ender scrap of fabric when going on and off the project mostly because I didn’t
want to have to deal with that fine thread in the bobbin if I “lost” it.
58 BONZA! v-190613
I will also admit that the first foot I used didn’t work very well, so I ripped out the first attempt and changed feet.
I used this mother-of-all-quarter-inch-feet to do the seam - and it worked out well.
Here’s the finished seam - note what you can’t see on

the backside!
Home stretch!
We just have the zipper binding left to do.
BONZA! v-190613 59
Exterior Zipper Bindings - Install External Zipper
We’re almost done!

In this section, we are going to install the external zipper by using binding.
We still have those loose rods floating between the layers of the bag - we’ll tend to those, too.
Considerations:
Exterior Zipper: We are using a #4.5 in a 30” length that was opened up to remove the one matching pull/
head that came with it. We replaced the matchy-matchy pull with two of a lively color to add interest to the bag.
Please see our “Fork U” video on sewlikearockstar.com for a very cool trick on how to change out zipper heads.
Two heads are better than one, too, by the way.
The zipper will get trimmed down to approximately 28” later.
Steps in this Section

• Prep: Change out zipper heads, if desired.
If you have cut your zippers and they are now missing their metal stops, you might want to take a few
seconds to make a few machine stitches across the teeth on the ends of your zipper so you don’t
accidentally unzip so far that you pull the end off while you're working.
• The loose rods will be put in their place after the zipper is installed & binding finished.
• Temporary Seams: Personally, I don’t use them for this stage - but feel free to do so if you desire.
• Find centers of each of these parts and mark with a pin:
- - - Raw edge at the back of your bag
- - -Zipper
- - -One strip of your binding
• Stack in the same order as above, and as shown below: zipper head up, matching center marking pins
• Don’t be concerned about leftover binding or zipper tape right now, we’ll deal with that later.
Sew with ¼” seam - using the zipper tape

edge (as we did with the first ZP) as your
reference guide.
Stop, needle down, and move zipper

heads out of your way as needed -
no attempts to cheat!
60 BONZA! v-190613
Tip: If you are working with a directional
fabric for the exterior of your bag or the binding
(like a small horizontal stripe, for example), I would
probably use temporary seams to first attach the
zipper to the project, being careful to stitch so that
your zipper is lined up well to your fabric design.
Then repeating with another line of temporary
stitching to make sure the binding is all lined up
pretty-pretty, too.
Repeat for other side.
Think ahead: take care in making sure the

side bindings from the front and back of the bag
match up evenly before you stitch the second side
down.
Binding
As was done on the sides, fold your binding over to

cover the binding stitching, use school glue if you
desire, top stitch.
I used King Tut through the machine needle to

stitch close to the edge of the binding on the exterior side - with Mono Poly on the interior side (bobbin stitches
on the zipper).
Here’s a close up of the finished stitches on the

top binding with zipper…
Binding is on. This super close up shows

the King Tut stitching on the front - and
the Mono Poly on the zipper side on the
back (on the other binding). You’ll also
notice “dents” in the front from the
Wonder Clips… a moist washcloth or mist
of water will plump that right up!
Next Step…
Rod casings, audition the bag to determine
exact length of zipper, trim and bind the
zipper ends and attach to side of the bag.
BONZA! v-190613 61
Finishing!
In this Section Rod Casings
• Rod casings • Mark a line across the top of the bag approx. ½” below the previous
• Adjust so the tray is attractive and topstitching line on the zipper binding on each side.
functional I use Sewline Air Erase pens - the lines do disappear relatively quickly
• Determine the length of the zipper and never come back to haunt you.
• Trim zipper
• Sally’s Zipper End Binding • Move each of the rods that are inside the lining up into their position
• Attach ends to the sides of the bag. on each side - just under the zipper binding.
• Using a zipper foot with needle to the right, sew another topstitching line on the line you marked - with the
rod pushed up against the zipper binding stitching.
Your exterior rods are now in place.
Adjustments/Audition Zipper Length to

Achieve an Attractive, Functional Tray
In this step, we will be using a couple of wonderclips to hold

the zipper ends in place to determine how much zipper needs
to be trimmed away to get proper fit.
• Place your bag on a flat surface.

• Open up zipper fully and then move zipper back up about
¼” from the end of the zipper teeth.
• On one side, arrange the zipper with the teeth lining up to
the stitching on the middle pleat on the exterior. Use a Won-
der Clip to attach the zipper so the teeth are even with the
outside side of the side bindings.
Do the same on the other side. This is our starting place to
determine if you need to adjust.
• The goal, with the zipper opened to roughly as far as it will
open (once the end binding is on - about ¼” in from the end
for our purposes right now), is to have the back side be quite
straight up. The front tray should make a nice 90 degree turn
at the front with the front zipper binding being parallel to the
table.
• (Shown in next pic) I trimmed just a bit of zipper away from

each side. The next images show how the side profile of the bag
should look when you achieve the proper zipper length.
• The back: This side should be able to stand tall. If the zipper is
too short, it might pull the top of the bag, curving it downward.
62 BONZA! v-190613
This image shows the back lookin' good.
The front
The zipper, when fully open, should naturally

want to support and form an approximate 90
degree bend in the front of the tray.
Notice how the zipper runs almost parallel to
the invisible table.
Trim?
• If it seems your zipper is too long, and maybe the bag looks “floppy”, test what it would look like by bringing
your zipper head up another ¼” or ½” (or whatever) on each side - then Wonderclip (or pin) it down to the
binding so that the bottom of the zipper head is about1/4” away from the outside edge of the side binding.
Do this until you get your bag to make a pleasing shape similar to the pictures above.
• Once you’re happy with your bag’s “audition”, trim the zipper back to about ¼” away from the back of the
zipper pull when it is in the desired location on the zipper to give you the result you desire.
• Zipper should be symetrical - with equal amount of zipper from the center of the zipper (and bag) to the end of
the zipper on each side.
• Now that the bag is opening and looking good, we just have to finish off those zipper ends and secure them to
the bag….
“Sally’s Zipper End Bindings”
When I was at the New York retreat last month, I messed

around finishing the zipper ends on BONZA! #2 about 5
different ways. Lotsa rippin’ went down. The goal was to
give a really clean look while also making less layers - so most
people would have an easier time with this step - no matter
what sewing machine they have.
I’m breaking this down into micro-steps… because the end Press your zipper end binding pieces lengthwise
result will look great if you follow this. to make a 2 ¼” long x 1” wide binding.
BONZA! v-190613 63
Finishing! (cont'd)
• Turn in each end ¼”, press

• On the raw edges, bring the folded end in just a tad and press (kind of like
wrapping a present).
- - - Using Best Press to do this makes it easier! MUCH easier.

The idea is to have the raw edges just slightly narrower than the other end of
the binding - so when it is folded around, there will be no raw edges/thread
dangling.
• Press again on lengthwise fold.

• To make things a little easier, you might want to put a tiny drop of school glue to temporarily hold the zipper
end binding to the exterior zipper binding assembly when you go to your machine.
• Wonder Clip it for a few minutes to let the glue dry.

• Notice the raw edges (under the WCs) are slightly skinnier
than the folded edge by the zipper head. We are going to be
trimming a little.
Please keep in mind, although this whole thing is tiny…
when we fold the binding over in just a little bit, the fact that
the raw edges are a little narrower will help us hide them.
• Sew a ¼” seam across the bottom through all

layers.
• Trim ⅛” of the seam allowance away.
64 BONZA! v-190613
Fold again over the raw edges.
Fold binding down
over the stitching. If you maybe freak out at doing little stuff like this, and
you’d like some extra security, you could put a thin line
of glue on the backside of the zipper
assembly to put a temporary hold on the binding on the
backside before you go to your machine. This helps to
keep the binding from unrolling.
Placement to Sew:
Move rods to the left to give you a little more manipulation

room. The zipper teeth are lined up with the stitching on the
3rd pleat. <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>
The edge of the zipper end binding does not extend past the outside edge of the side binding on the bag.
The pins indicate where you should sew. This should be a “stitch in the ditch” line of sewing that should look
good on top (barely visible) and it should land nicely on the bottom side, too. Try stitching where indicated, you
greatly reduce how many layers you will be sewing through. Still using a Microtex needles, riiiiiight?
Those are nice and sharp and will go right through this!
BONZA! v-190613 65
Notice how this line of stitching catches the back
of the zipper end binding securely.
And here it is... all done!
66 BONZA! v-190613
BONZA! v-190613 67
Stay Tuned
Are you already with us?
Please join us - with a free account - on sewlikearockstar.com.

Also, make sure you are on our mailing list!
On Facebook: facebook.com/groups/sewlikearockstar
On Mighty Networks: sew-like-a-rock-star.mn.co
Our sister store (for zippers, frames, etc) : shop.sewmuchnicer.com
Our other projects that complement your new BONZA! Bag:

• Bionic Needle Organizer Wallet
• Bionic Dumpling Dish (works really well with this bag!)
The directions for the Dumpling Dish also contain instructions how to add snaps to your
BONZA!
• Bionic Scrap Bin Accessory
Also:
• Bionic Gear Bag
• Baby Bionic Gear Bag
• Mother Lode Bionic Retreat Bag
• Our Crazy Popular Mojo Bags
As well as our community programs!

Check out the site for Live Sew A Longs, VIP and other interactive opportunities!
If you have any questions, just pop us an email at support@sewlikearockstar.com
We hope you enjoy your new bag!
~ Sally and her Rock Star Team
68 BONZA! v-190613
BONZA! Pattern Piece K
BONZA! Pattern Piece K
v190613 - June 2019
BONZA! v-190613 69
v190613 - June 2019
70 BONZA! v-190613
Peltex & Vinyl Guide
Please Remember:
Creating dividers with Peltex and using Vinyl are options, not required.
The “cutting size” of Peltex to use for each pocket are indicated below.
If you intend to store anything on the exterior of a pocket and/or divider (such as elastic loops for implements,
vinyl pockets, pen loops, etc), you will get a better result if you stabilize that divider/pocket with Peltex.
It is your option to create your pockets and/or dividers and we have seen many use #1 as a divider.
This divider has been created with vinyl pockets on the exterior for Needle Packets and other items; however, we
find it also great to create without vinyl and a cool place to store your sewing Pins (broche style) that you may
collect.
When adding elastic to hold tools upright on a divider, you will need to include Peltex for stability to hold the
tools in place.
BONZA! v-190613 71
BONZA!
Bionic Gear Bag Pro 2.0
Materials Needed
Rods Zippers:
#3 zippers: one for each Zipper Pocket inside - up to 5 need-
The rods used in the BONZA! are available from our sister ed.
store - shop.sewmuchnicer.com. 14” ones work well - easy to install and trim.
We suggest the bundle that offers 4 interior and 2 exterior
rods for each bag. #4.5 zipper: 30” (trim to 28”) Nice with a handbag pull.
Best: consider double pulls.
Quilting Cotton: Preferably, DO NOT use #5 or molded plastic zippers… they
are sized differently, very clunky and not as attractive
Color junkies, this is your project!
Fat quarter friendly - with the exception of the bindings Thread This bag shows off topstitching. A 30 or 40 weight
(28” needed). thread (I like King Tut!) looks great.
Example bag used 12 different fabrics - a great scrap buster These threads will also work for construction, or you may
project! elect to use a 50 weight for building your bag.
Alternately, for someone that appreciates bland … 1.5 yards
of 45” wide will work. Sewing Machine Needles Strongly suggested: Schmetz Mi-
crotex (aka “sharps”) 80/12.
Pellon SF 101 Interfacing: Used in lining assembly, 2 yards
if using 2 layers on the exterior 1.5 yards if using batting or Ruched/Colored/Ruffled/Decorated Elastic (optional) : 22”
some other exterior. for use as tool holders if desired.
Pellon Peltex 72F (for use in any dividers if desired). Vinyl - 12 gauge (optional): 6.25 x 3.75” for 3x5 card pocket if
10” x 14” to be trimmed into 3 pieces if used as in example desired.
bag. 10 x 2” for front of divider/ZP #1 if desired.
This space reserved for promotional link. This space is reserved for UPC/ISBN
sewlikearockstar.com Pattern: BONZA! 190613

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7tes2y3-Bonza! June 2019

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Complete Pattern, Instructions and Illustrated Walkthrough for Building Your Own BONZA!

190613 Version - June 2019

… Dedicated to family. We are strong.

Especially thinking of you, Jess…

First Edition June 2019.

All content by Sally Thompson.

Published by Sew Like a Rock Star, LLC.

STAY IN THE LOOP!

HAVING ISSUES WHEN PRINTING?

Divider #2 - Zipper Pocket..................................................................................................32

Attaching Side Bindings - 1/4" Seams............................................................................53

facebook.com/groups/sewlikearockstar ...and … sew-like-a-rock-star.mn.co

Let’s talk about how the BONZA! came to be...

First, there was the Bionic Gear Bag:

Then the idea that led to BONZA! happened...

Now... the BONZA!

To the right is the first completed member-made BONZA -

Here are the features that make this bag AMAZING!

• Reinforced by heavy duty rods - exclusive to us!

So let’s get started!

Right Side of Fabric: You may see “RS” used.

Pouches: The space created between the Zipper Pockets.

The selvedges are firm, as well as they are “tiled”, so they

2. Dividers vs. Zipper Pockets

3. “Why” I’m doing it this way:

• Divider #1: The Peltex on the front helps give a really

• Divider #4: Nice place to add a vinyl window - as it is supported well.

• Divider #5: Great place to hide cash from the family.

Choices! You have some to consider:

Batting: Skip using interfacing on “A” if you use batting.

Possibilities for each:

4. Elastic Tool holders: Works well on divider #3

Making your BONZA! to suit your creative style

It is your option on where to place these elements.

Notice the Rod placements at 1, 2, 3, & 5.

© 2015-2019 Sally Thompson, Sew Like a Rock Star, LLC.

To prewash, or not to prewash?

Adding your fabric layout <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>

for the BONZA!

Before I start cutting, I plan out

I mark each fabric with the

After cutting, always put the

Shown before fusing:

No SF101 needed for “A” if you are

Right: Layout for Peltex. This is for

Prepped and Ready to Sew!

Learn more about the VIP benefits here! sew.sewlikearockstar.com/vip-membership

We will be using this for reference - we will be coming back to it later.

Stack your parts in this order:

Center zipper on fabric.

Carefully match up the ends of the ZP Lining

The SALLY PERFECT ZIPPER TRICK: Look carefully at the

We have GREAT videos for this… have you

Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment.

For most of my machines, I lower this setting by

But on this one? Noooooooo. This machine (a Juki..

So I used painter’s tape to mark off the ¼”.

Move the zipper pull/head out of your way.

If you come up to it in a seam, just stop with your <pdfx:slars>7TEs2y3</pdfx:slars>

Starters and enders.

Edges should match up on

If they don’t, you will

Stack your parts:

BE SURE that your ends are matched up.