International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06
Effects of Combed and Carded Yarn on Weft Knitted
Finished Fabric Quality
1
Nasrin Akter, 2Nahida Akter
Department of Textile Engineering
Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology
141-142, Love Road, Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka – 1208, Bangladesh
Abstract-- Yarn is the fundamental unit of fabric. Yarn contains
a lot of properties (variables) which can affect knitted fabric
finished quality. Carded and combed yarns of same count have
many different properties because of different manufacturing
process. Combed yarn is of superior quality and carded yarn is of
inferior quality. The main purpose of this paper is to find out or
investigate carded and combed yarn effect on knitted fabric
finished quality such as GSM, Shrinkage, Spirality, Resistance of
Pilling and Color fastness properties.
Index Term-- Combed, Carded, Single jersey, Rib, Interlock,
GSM, Spirality, Shrinkage, Color fastness etc.
I. INTRODUCTION
Yarns are the raw materials manipulated during knitting
[2].An experienced knitter will describe many yarn properties
and knitting variable, all of which, from his experience, affect
the characteristics of knitted fabrics. Any of these he may find
it necessary to adjust or control in order to obtain a finished
fabric of the required physical properties [6]. The main yarn
properties are yarn count and yarn twist. Both are of prime
importance in the design of textile structures and, to a large
extent, they govern the appearance and behavior of the various
types of yarns and fabrics [1]. Yarn Count is the numerical
expression of fineness. According to “Textile Institute” the
number indicating the mass per unit length or length per unit
mass of yarn is called count [1]. Generally combed yarn
strength is higher than carded yarn of the same count [3]. Yarn
twist is the spiral turns given to the yarn in order to hold
constituent fibres threads together. Highly twisted yarn is
“Lively” and tends to twist upon it and produce “Snarls”
fabrics produces from highly twisted yarns will possess a
lively handle. An increase in the amount of twist produces an
increase in the yarn strength, if yarn strength is increase, the
fabric strength will be increased [1]. Normally combed yarns
are stronger, less hairy, more uniform and more lustrous than
carded yarns [4]. Knit fabric strength is depends upon yarn
strength and stitch length. Fabric quality means different
properties of finished fabric which depends on yarn properties
and fabrics construction [2]. The properties which are
important for knitted fabric and maintained in the industries
from grey stage to finished stage are GSM, dimensional
stability, Resistance of pilling and color fastness properties. In
this research, these fabric properties were compared after
finishing for a same count carded and combed yarn and the
possibility of uses carded yarn in place of combed yarn was
analyzed. Carded yarn production process is easier than
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combed yarn production process and carded yarn is also
cheaper than combed yarn [3].
II. SAMPLE PREPARATION
Same count of combed and carded yarn was collected from
spinning mill considering other properties. Yarn evenness was
tested by Premier 9000 (Hairiness, CV%, Um%, Thick place,
Thin place, Neps etc). Collected 26 Ne carded and combed
yarn for producing single jersey fabric. 28 Ne and 30 Ne
carded and combed yarn was taken for producing rib and
interlock structure fabric. Knitting machine parameters such as
stitch length, number of feeders, take-down tension and cam
arrangement were individually set for single jersey, rib and
interlock structure fabric. Same structure fabrics were
produced in same knitting parameters in same machine by
using same count carded and combed yarn. Here 2.67mm
stitch length was used for producing single jersey fabric. Two
single jersey specimens were found with different grey GSM.
The samples were delivered for dyeing after measuring grey
GSM. Dyeing process was done in same bath in same dyeing
condition and same dyeing recipe for comparing finished
fabric properties. Samples were finished in same procedure
and same finishing parameters after completing dyeing and
obtained two samples with different finished GSM. Then rib
and interlock structure fabric were produced by using 2.52mm
and 1.8mm stitch length, in rib knitting machine and interlock
knitting machine. Equal knitting parameters were used for
carded and combed yarn of same count (individual for rib and
interlock structure). As a result four samples were obtained of
rib and interlock structure. Then the samples were dyeing in
equal dyeing condition and same bath in same dyeing recipe
(individual for rib and interlock fabric). Final samples were
found for rib and interlock structure after finishing (in same
finishing parameter, individual for rib and interlock).
III. EXPERIMENTAL
Knitting requires a relatively fine, smooth, strong yarn with
good elastic recovery properties. The carded yarn is
particularly used for knitwear, underwear and socks and
combed yarn is used for underwear, sportswear and socks.
Four primary structures-Plain, Rib, Interlock and Purl are the
base structures from which all weft knitted fabrics and
garments are derived [2]. In this work study single jersey
(Plain), rib and interlock structure fabric were produced by
using same count carded and combed yarn. A same count
carded and combed yarns have many different properties
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 International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06
which influence the fabric quality. Here this yarn effect was
observed on fabric physical properties like GSM, shrinkage,
spirality and fabric pilling resistance as well as some chemical
properties like color fastness to wash, color fastness to light
and color fastness to rubbing. The resistance to the loss of
color of any dyed or printed material during washing is
referred to as its color fastness to wash. If dye molecule have
not penetrated inside the inter polymer chain space of fibre
with strong attractive force poor color fastness to wash result
is found [5]. For color fastness to wash test ISO 105 C06
(C2S) method was followed. Color fastness to light measures
the resistance to fading of dyed textiles materials when
exposed to day light [5]. Mercury-Tungsten Lamp was used
for light fastness test by ISO 105 B01 method. Color fastness
to rubbing /crocking was designed to determine the degree of
color which may be transferred to a specific pressure applied
by crock meter .This test was done in both dry and wet state.
The crocking cloth against which the test sample would be
rubbed was a white, unbleached, undyed cotton fabric. In
crocking cloth, 100% pick-up was maintained for wet rubbing.
Color fastness to rubbing has little effect on carded and
combed yarn because the hairiness of carded yarn is more than
combed yarn. Color fastness to rubbing was tested by Crock
meter in ISO105 X12:1992 method.
Pills are formed in fabric by entangling the loose fibres or
hairy fibres. When the garment undergoes wear & washing
these pills are formed on the fabric surface. Pilling is a fabric
surface fault which gives the garment unsightly appearance
[1]. Carded and combed yarns have great effect for forming
pills on fabric surface. Pilling is tested by Martindale Abrasion
& Pilling Tester by using SN 198525 method and 11000
cycles were used for every specimen. Every sample when
undergoes washing most of the cases they change their
Data for color fastness to wash (Color change)
Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j
Rating 4-5 4-5
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dimension. In general sense the changes in length or width of
a fabric specimen subjected to specify condition is known as
dimensional changes. The dimensional changes resulting in an
increase of length or width is called stretched condition if the
dimensional changes result in decrease of length or width is
called shrinkage [1]. At first all the samples were conditioned
for 4 hours in a standard temperature & RH% and the length
and width of the samples were measured before washing.
After wash, again the length and width of the samples were
measured for identify the stretch or shrinkage%. More hairy
and more twisted carded yarn produced higher fabric
shrinkage than that of combed yarn. Spirality is a particularly
serious problem for plain knitted fabrics due to asymmetric
loops. Spirality is described by the size of the angle made
between the Wales and a line drawn perpendicular to the
courses. Spirality in a fabric is caused by the relaxation of
torsion forces in the yarn which causes the individual fibres
twisted round each other during spinning, to try and returns to
their original untwisted state. It is known that a fabric knitted
with a highly twisted yarn will have higher spirality [7].
Carded yarn TPI is more than combed yarn. AATCC 179
method was used for measuring spirality. The term GSM of
fabric means the weight of the fabric in grams per square
meter (Weight per unit area) [1]. GSM is the most important
parameter which is maintained in the factory or industry. It is
maintained in the all stages in the processing of knit fabric. It
is also measured after dyeing, before dyeing and every stages
of finishing process like stentering, compacting etc. GSM was
measured by GSM cutter. Here grey GSM were measured in
the knitting stages and finished GSM were measured after
finishing for comparing them.
IV. DATA ANALYSIS
Table I
Combed Carded
Combed rib Carded rib
interlock interlock
4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Table II
Data for color fastness to wash (Staining)
Fibre Bleached
Di-acetate Polyester Polyamide Acrylic Wool
composition Cotton
Rating for
4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
combed s/j
Rating for
4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
carded s/j
Rating for
4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
combed rib
Rating for
4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
carded rib
Rating for
combed 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
interlock
Rating for
4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5
[[[
carded interlock

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Table III
Data for color fastness to light
Combed Carded
Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j Combed rib Carded rib
Interlock Interlock
Rating 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Table IV
Data for color fastness to rubbing (Staining)
Combed Carded
Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j Combed rib Carded rib
Interlock Interlock
Rating for dry 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5
rub
Rating for wet 3-4 3 3-4 3-4 4-5 4-5
rub

Table V
Data for pilling Resistance test (11000 cycles were used for every sample)
Combed Carded
Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j Combed rib Carded rib
Interlock Interlock
Rating 4 3-4 3-4 3 4 3-4

Table VI
Data for Shrinkage (%)
Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j Combed rib Carded rib Combed Carded
Interlock Interlock
Length wise -5 -6.5 -4 -2 -4.6 -4.3
Shrinkage (%)
Width wise 1.8 2 10.5 8.5 4.8 5.1
Shrinkage (%)

Table VII
Data for GSM.
Combed Carded
Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j Combed rib Carded rib
Interlock Interlock
Grey GSM 156 154 168 165 220 216
Finished GSM 189 179 229 220 260 250

Table VIII
Data for Spirality (single jersey fabric)
Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j
Spirality(º) 6˚ 7˚

V. RESULTS

Fig. 1. Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to wash (color change)

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 International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 96

Fig. 2. Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to wash (staining on Fig. 5. Carded and combed yarn effect on resistance of pilling
bleached Cotton)
In figure: 05, it is easily observed that the resistance of
pilling effect on single jersey, rib and interlock fabric
produced by combed yarn gives better result than same
count carded yarn.

Fig. 3. Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to light

Fig. 6. Carded and combed yarn effect on shrinkage (%)

In figure: 06, it is clearly observed that shrinkage of all

types of fabric produced from carded yarn is more than
that produced from combed yarn. While the yarn count is
same.

Fig. 4. Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to rubbing

In figure-01, 02 and 03, it is clearly observed that the

finished knit fabrics made by carded yarn and combed
yarn have no significant change due to color fastness to
wash and color fastness to light. But in case of color
fastness to rubbing, a little effect is found on finished knit
fabric made by a same count carded and combed yarn.
Some cases combed yarn shows better result than carded
yarn. In figure-04, gives the clear conception about the
color fastness to rubbing.
Fig. 7. Carded and combed yarn effect on GSM.

In figure-07, it is clearly observed that combed yarn produces

higher GSM fabric than carded yarn, while using the same
count for both yarn types.

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[3] Klein. W. “Manual of Textile Technology”, UK: The Textile
Institute, 2008, pp, 286-289.
[4] D.B. Ajgaonkar “Knitting Technology”, New Delhi: Universal
Publishing Corporation, 2006, pp.180-181
[5] E.R. Trotman “Dyeing and chemical Technology of Textile
Fibres”, London: Charles Griffin and Company Ltd., 1975, pp,
616-626
[6] Munden, D.L. “The Geometry and Dimensional Properties of Plain
Knit Fabrics” Journal of the Textile Institute 50, 1959.T448-471.
[7] Banerjee, P.K. and Alaiban, “T.S. Geometry and Dimensional
Properties of Plain Loops, Made of Rotor Spun Cotton Yarns”
Textile Res. J. 58(5): 287-290 (1988).

Fig. 8. Carded and combed yarn effect on spirality

In figure-08, it is clearly observed that spirality of the

fabric produced from combed yarn is lower than that
produced from carded yarn.

VI. CONCLUSION
The analytical result reveals that carded yarn can easily be
used in place of combed yarn by changing some knitting
parameters. For this, production cost will be decreased
because carded yarn production cost is generally lower than
combed yarn. Carded and combed yarns of same count have
many different properties which affect on fabric properties.
This study work was analyzed a few number of yarn
properties and fabric properties. There are further scopes to
work on the comfort characteristics like absorption
characteristics, thermal conductivity, fabric handle properties
etc. The result of our simple bar diagram shows that using
same count of carded yarn and combed yarn fabric have no
change occur in terms of color fastness to wash and light.
There is a little effect on color fastness to rubbing, pilling
resistance, shrinkage properties and spirality. Combed yarns
are stronger, less hairy and more uniform than carded yarns.
That is why, combed yarns shows better result on color
fastness to rubbing, pilling resistance and shrinkage properties
than carded yarns. Spirality is particularly measured for single
jersey fabric. Carded yarn single jersey fabric shows more
spirality than combed yarn single jersey fabric because of high
twist. Carded yarn and combed yarn have great effect on
GSM. More loose hairy fibres are removed from carded yarn
by knitting process and pretreatment process than combed
yarn. As a result fabric produced from combed yarn shows
more GSM than fabric produced from carded yarn after
finishing. In our analysis, GSM differences of carded yarn
fabric and combed yarn fabric in grey and finished stage vary
from 2 to 10 respectively. From this discussion, it can be said
that in case of producing fabric from carded yarn should
maintain higher GSM than combed yarn fabric to achieve
same finished GSM.

REFERENCES
[1] J.E. Booth “Principles of Textile Testing”, India: CBS publishers
and Distributors, 1996, pp.209-235
[2] David. J. Spencer “Knitting Technology”, Cambridge: Woodhead,
2008, pp.1-61

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