2020 07 01 - Britain

BRITAIN
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE
TRAVEL CULTURE HERITAGE STYLE AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE
WIN
Cornwall
A STAY IN A
LUXURY
CORNISH
HOTEL
TIMELESS VILLAGES
& SECRET COVES
HENRY III
Twice crowned,
long forgotten
DUMFRIES
HOUSE
Prince Charles's
NORTH passion project
YORKSHIRE
Moors to shores
Treasure
IN THE ATTIC
JULY/AUGUST 2020 £4.95
Auctions and antiques
www.britain-magazine.com
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EDITOR'S LETTER
The current crisis has
made armchair travellers
of us all. Now is the time
to draw on uplifting
memories of holidays
past, and to dream of future trips. In this
issue we explore some old favourites, such
as Cornwall, whose quaint villages and
timeless landscapes are always balm for
the soul (A Roseland romance, p14).
England’s cathedrals have withstood
world wars, plagues and any number of
tumultuous events with stony stoicism;
we celebrate their enduring beauty in a
dedicated feature (To be a pilgrim, p24).
And with Britain’s stately homes forced
to close their doors for the duration of
the pandemic, we’ve taken solace in
exploring their literary counterparts
64
(Fact or fiction, p56), and managed a
pre-lockdown peek at Dumfries House
14
(A princely plan, p40), which was saved Flower-bedecked houses in Deal
for the nation by Prince Charles.
CONTENTS
Finally, thanks to all those of you who
have been in touch during this difficult
time to share your memories of Britain
(Your letters, p6). Do keep writing – we VOLUME 88 ISSUE 4
love hearing your stories and you might
just see your holiday memory appear
in print...
FEATURES
Natasha Foges, 14 A ROSELAND ROMANCE
Editor Cornwall is not short of beauty spots, but the
Roseland Peninsula, with its magical mix of country
4
PHOTOS: © GORDON BELL PHOTOGRAPHY/ISTOCK/AM STOCK 2/WORLD HISTORY ARCHIVE/ALAMY
@BRITAINMAGAZINE and coast, is surely the loveliest of them all

FACEBOOK/BRITAINMAGAZINE 24 TO BE A PILGRIM
To mark 2020’s Year of Cathedrals, Year of
@BRITAIN_MAGAZINE Pilgrimage, we visit some of the most awe-inspiring
ecclesiastical buildings that have helped shape Britain
PINTEREST/BRITAINMAGAZINE
32 TREASURE IN THE ATTIC
In the dusty stores of Spetchley Park lay hundreds
of antiques from one of Britain’s greatest estates.
We go behind the scenes at a very special auction
BRITAIN
TRAVEL CULTURE HERITAGE STYLE
Hidden
AWARD WINNING MAGAZINE
WIN
40 A PRINCELY PLAN
Cornwall Scotland’s Dumfries House was nearly lost to the
A STAY IN A
LUXURY
CORNISH
HOTEL
TIMELESS VILLAGES
& SECRET COVES
nation – until it became the personal project of
HENRY III
Twice crowned,
long forgotten
DUMFRIES
HRH Prince Charles
49
HOUSE
NORTH
Prince Charles's
passion project Cover image: The village
YORKSHIRE
Moors to shores
of Portloe on Cornwall’s ENGLAND’S FORGOTTEN KING
Treasure
IN THE ATTIC
Roseland Peninsula
Henry III’s peaceable nature was far from the ideal
Auctions and antiques © Reinhard Schmid/
in the Cotswolds
4Corners Images of a medieval king, but what was his true legacy?
FEATURES
56 FACT OR FICTION BRITAIN is the official magazine of
We visit houses thought to have inspired VisitBritain, the national tourism agency.
BRITAIN is published by
the most famous homes in literature The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd,
64
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Tel: 020 7349 3700
Looking for a weekend getaway with laidback charm? Email: info@britain-magazine.com
This quaint seaside town is just the ticket Editorial
66
Editor Natasha Foges
YORKSHIRE’S MOORS & SHORES Art Editor Chloë Collyer
Production Editor Jenny Rowe
Equal parts mystical moor and secluded seashore, Advertising
66
Yorkshire beach holidays beat some of Britain’s more Sales Director Cameron Hay
Group Advertising Manager Natasha Syed
traditional summer destinations hands down Senior Sales Executive Sam Evanson
Sales Executive George Roberts
Publishing
24
Chairman Paul Dobson
REGULARS Publisher Caroline Scott

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Chief Financial Officer Vicki Gavin
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Share your stories and memories of Britain, Subs Marketing Manager Bret Weekes
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4 BRITAIN www.britain-magazine.com
Two thousand
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When you’re ready
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YOUR LETTERS
Write to us with your thoughts on the magazine and memories of Britain
with gorgeous photographic illustrations to

STAR LETTER HEAVENLY BROADSTAIRS feed the imagination. So engrossed was I that
I forgot to drink my freshly brewed cup of tea.
Going to England has been a lifelong I have been an armchair tourist of the UK
dream of mine and I was finally able to for many years, and when I visit, which is
fulfil that dream in May 2019. My aunt not often enough, it can be difficult to
lives in Broadstairs and so we spent experience the many “must-see” attractions.
a few days there visiting her and However, as history is my primary field of
the surrounding area. We stayed in a interest those notable areas take me to
beautiful little B&B overlooking the sea. many wonderful and exquisite places.
The scenery was absolutely It seems the magazine never stops
breathtaking! Never had I experienced giving: literature, art, architecture, people,
such a feeling of the waves, the smell archaeology and history waiting to be
of the sea air and the glorious beauty enjoyed in every issue. Oh! and I almost
of the scenery. forgot – recipes! I just want to thank you
We managed to take in a little art for your exceptional work and to let you
gallery and I was lucky to find the most know how I look forward to every new issue.
perfect painting – the waves of the sea. I Robert D’Amato, San Bernardino,
I stumbled upon your magazine this past could not think of a more perfect souvenir California, USA
summer in a little variety store near my for such a treasured place.
home. How delighted I was when browsing Broadstairs in my mind
through it to come across the article is a little piece of heaven! ONLY IN OXFORD
on Broadstairs, Kent [Vol 87 Issue 4]. Christina Marecak, by email Thank you for the recent article on Oxford’s
Dreaming Spires [Vol 88 Issue 1]. This past
Our star letter wins The Cathedrals of England by Harry Batsford, Charles Fry and Simon year, I attended a three-week residential
Jenkins, a new edition of a classic 1930s guide to the nation’s cathedrals (Batsford, summer school at Oxford. It was thrilling
£9.99). www.pavilionbooks.com to live at Exeter College in the shadows of
JRR Tolkien and Philip Pullman whilst
studying creative writing! In your Top Ten,
A VIRTUAL VISIT (visited with my husband a couple you mentioned CS Lewis finding inspiration
Ever since I fell in love with your country as of years ago) and Hidden Wales. for The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe
an Erasmus student in 1992 I travel to the It felt like this number was tailor-made and in St Mary’s Passage, and I thought other
UK several times a year. However, due to was such a comfort! I also took all my other readers might enjoy my photo of Mr
Corona, my Easter plans had to be cancelled. BRITAIN numbers from the attic and started Tumnus and the famous lamppost [below].
I am afraid my summer plans will not go rereading them. Even the recipes inspired Ruth Barrett, Stratford, Ontario, Canada
through either: East Sussex with the children me and I ordered a book from the reading
and my parents. With a dear friend I had corner… Thank you so much BRITAIN!
also planned a two-day garden visit… Even Dominique Louagie, De Pinte, Belgium
our London-Oxford school trip in May with
90 students had to be cancelled! Going to the
UK is like oxygen for me. ARMCHAIR TRAVELLING
Your July number [Vol 88 Issue 3] was Sitting in my home here in Southern
therefore a real treat. I really enjoyed 1066 California, I had the opportunity to indulge
Country, A Tale of One City (London), myself in the May issue of BRITAIN [Vol 88
Churchill at Home (I do love Chartwell!), Issue 2]. And indulge myself I did. Each and
Alice in Wonderland (Oxford), Harrogate every article was a feature story of history,
PHOTO: © ISTOCK
WRITE TO US! By post: Letters, BRITAIN, The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London, SW3 3TQ
Via email: editor@britain-magazine.com FOLLOW US! Twitter: @BritainMagazine Instagram: @britain_magazine
Facebook: www.facebook.com/BritainMagazine Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/britainmagazine
DECEPTION, CONSPIRACY, MURDER
AND EMBEDDED NAZI SPIES
In Spite of All Terror is the first in a series of crime thrillers
by V M Knox that mix historical fact, crime fiction and superb
characterisations. Set in September 1940, when Britain stood
alone against an imminent Nazi invasion, Reverend Clement
Wisdom and other men from the restricted occupations, were
called to join the covert Auxiliary Units. Based in East Sussex,
these ordinary men by day will become saboteurs and assassins
by night. Following the murder of several of Clement’s team, he
finds himself embroiled in the murky world of espionage where
things are never what they seem.
“Fantastic read, kept me enthralled to the last page.”

Janet Laurence- Former Chair, British Crime Writers Association.
If Necessary Alone is the second thriller in the series. Clement

W sdom, now a Major in Special Duties Branch, Secret Intelligence
Service is sent to remote Caithness to investigate illicit encrypted
radio transmissions. But as soon as he arrives there, an out-
station wireless operator is found brutally murdered and
Clement becomes entangled in a web of death and silence.
Alone, and in the bitter Scottish winter, Clement must stay one
step ahead of a killer, if he is to remain alive.
“A thriller full of tension, treachery and twists.

You won’t put it down.”
Janet Laurence – Former Chair, British Crime Writer’s Association.
The third book in the series is coming soon.
In Spite of All Terror and If Necessary Alone are available

through online book sellers and through all good bookstores.
One destination
Two extraordinary venues
Superb bespoke interiors, bathrooms, Kitchens & Bedrooms The most atmospheric sculpture park in Britain.
A unique one-stop shopping experience for all your interior & exterior More than 300 internationally renowned artists exhibiting sculptures for
design & decoration requirements. sale within ten acres of arboretum & wildlife inhabited water gardens.
Miscellanea www.miscellanea.co.uk The Sculpture Park

Crossways, Churt, Surrey www.thesculpturepark.com Jumps Road, Churt, Surrey
GU10 2JA Curator: 07831 500 506 GU10 2LH
01428 714 014 01428 605 453
The
BULLETIN
Big shows on the small screen, virtual tours
and blockbuster exhibitions from afar
T H E AT R E
Domestic dramas
From James Corden's winning turn in One Man, Two Guv'nors to Charlotte Brontë’s Jane Eyre and William
PHOTO: JOHAN PERSSON/THE NATIONAL THEATRE
Shakespeare’s Coriolanus, National Theatre Live have been scouring their illustrious archive and hand-
picking productions for you to stream online for free. Every Thursday night at 7pm BST your new theatre
fix awaits you on their YouTube channel; you can watch it anytime over the following seven days. You can
also put your knowledge to the test with two National Theatre at Home quizzes, with questions posed
by famous thespians, also accessed via YouTube. www.youtube.com/user/ntdiscovertheatre
HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION
ART
Thames tour
In 2015 London’s first public art walk, The
Line, was opened to all. It connects three
boroughs and traces a difficult-to-follow
path along the Greenwich Meridian through
Northeast London and into Greenwich
itself. To save us all the trouble of getting
lost, we can now follow the route virtually,
past the artworks that make up this evolving
and impressive art project. A dramatic
cultural journey, starting and finishing
right on your sofa, it features works by
Anthony Gormley, creator of the Angel of
C U LT U R E North, and other world-renowned artists, S TAY
with views of the Thames and Docklands.
Virtual museums www.the-line.org Scottish sanctuaries
With heavy hearts, the country’s museums The annual Scottish Hotel Awards recognise
have closed their doors. But they’re still the best of Scotland’s hospitality industry,
welcoming us inside to explore their from state-of-the-art city spa hotels to
collections and exhibitions. You can find charming island B&Bs. The Machrie Hotel
the British Museum on the Google Arts and Golf Links on the Isle of Islay was the
and Culture app, which allows you to view erall winner this year, named Scottish
countless online exhibits; we’d recommend Hotel of the Year as well as National Golf
1066: the year that changed England. You Hotel of the Year. Back on the mainland,
IMAGES: CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON/ALAMY/TATE, CREATIVE COMMONS CC-BY-NC-ND (3.0 UNPORTED)/TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM
can also get lost in the history of British art the New Hotel of the Year award went to
on Tate Britain’s website, digging world- Market Street Hotel in Edinburgh. With
famous works by the likes of William over 100 awards in a variety of categories,
Hogarth and John Singer Sargent (above) the Scottish Hotel Awards website is a handy
out of their digitised collection. planning tool for a future Scottish trip.
artsandculture.google.com; www.tate.org.uk PING www.scottishhotelawards.com
Glove love
Along with lots of other Great British events
that signal that peak summer has officially
arrived, the lawn tennis championships,
Wimbledon, have been cancelled for the first
time since the Second World War. However,
the world’s oldest tennis tournament is now
an institution with traditions that thrive
independent of the event itself. As well
as Christy’s towels and tennis whites,
strawberries and cream are an iconic
combination served court-side ever since
the first tournament in 1877. These oven
gloves should come in handy when devising
your own sweet treats this summer (£20).
www.shop.wimbledon.com
H E R I TAG E
Live from lockdown
The closure of Britain’s fine houses for the duration of the put roast beef between two slices of bread – have become tour
coronavirus crisis has left some of them worryingly short of guides of their home, filming weekly interactive YouTube Live
funds: entrance fees are essential when the roof springs a leak tours (free, but donations welcome). Mapperton is helping the
or artworks need restoring. One of the most enterprising is community, too, preparing homemade meals for isolated locals.
Mapperton House in Dorset, one of England’s loveliest manors, You can see the house in the upcoming Netflix production of
which dates from the 1540s. Owners the Earl and Countess of Daphne du Maurier’s Rebecca – and hopefully it will be opening
Sandwich – whose ancestor is credited with being the first to its doors to visitors again very soon. www.mapperton.com
HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION
READING CORNER
Take inspiration for your
British adventures from
these great reads
The Crown in Crisis:
Countdown to the
Abdication by
Alexander Larman
(Weidenfeld &
Nicolson, £20). The
crisis caused by Edward
Beef skirt is VIII’s marriage to Wallis
traditionally used Simpson in 1936.
for Cornish pasties as it
One Two Three Four:
cooks in the same time as The Beatles in Time by
the vegetables and its Craig Brown (Fourth
juices make wonderful RECIPE Estate, £20). A hilarious
gravy new biography of the
Cornish pasties
Fab Four, whose music
touched so many,
including Queen
Elizabeth II.
Cordon Bleu chef Gilli Davies’ Flavours of England series has you covered for tried and
tested traditional dishes popular in regions all over the country. From the Snacks & Suppers Codebreaking Sisters:
Our Secret War by
title to Afternoon Tea treats, there is a recipe for every occasion. This one has been sourced
Patricia and Jean
from the Cornish Pasty Association, as printed in Pies & Pasties alongside Huw Jones’s
Owtram (Mirror
stunning food photography (Graffeg, £6.99; www.graffeg.com). Books, £8.99). A
courageous story told
I n g re d i e n t s : MAKES 6 by the only living sisters
FOR THE PASTRY: FOR THE FILLING: to have signed the
Official Secrets Act.
500g strong bread flour 400g good-quality beef skirt, cubed
Circles and Squares:
1 teaspoon salt 300g potato, peeled and diced The Lives and Art of
the Hampstead
120g lard or white shortening, cubed 150g swede, peeled and diced Modernists by Caroline
125g Cornish butter, cubed 150g onion, peeled and sliced Maclean (Bloomsbury
Publishing, £30). How a
175ml cold water Salt and pepper to taste (2:1 ratio) small London suburb
launched an entire art
Beaten egg or milk, to glaze movement.
Method: Warrior: A Life of War

Add the salt to the flour in a large mixing bowl. Rub the two types of fat into the flour in Anglo-Saxon Britain
until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the water, bring the mixture together with by Edoardo Albert &
a round-bladed knife and knead until the pastry becomes elastic. This will take longer Paul Gething (Granta
than normal pastry but it gives it the strength that is needed to hold the filling and retain a Books, £9.99). An
good shape. Cover the pastry with cling film and leave in the fridge for 3 hours. exploration of where
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/Gas 3. Roll out the pastry on a floured surface and cut we’ve come from,
which starts in an
into 20cm diameter circles. Layer the vegetables and meat on top of the pastry, adding a
Anglo-Saxon graveyard
generous pinch of salt and pepper as you go. Bring the pastry around and crimp the edges
at Bamburgh Castle.
together. Glaze with beaten egg or an egg and milk mixture. Bake for about 50-55 minutes
until golden.
Roseland
A
ROMANCE
Cornwall is not short of beauty spots, but the Roseland
Peninsula, with its magical mix of the pastoral and the
coastal, is surely the loveliest of them all
WORDS NATASHA FOGES
CORNWALL
n 1926, while on a tour of the country that he

would later describe in his classic travelogue In This secluded enclave offers an
Search of England, the writer HV Morton visited
a small Cornish village, St Anthony-in-Roseland. enchanting mix of rocky heritage coast
“I took the map,” he wrote, “and one name curled and gentle pastoral landscapes
itself around my heart. I do not think that in the whole
length and breadth of England there is a more beautiful
name… St Anthony-in-Roseland.” Morton rented a pink the pilchard-fishing industry in the 17th and 18th centuries
thatched cottage and explored the ragged contours of the – and became a notorious smugglers’ haunt – but the
PHOTOS: © ANTIPASM/BLUESTOCKSKY/ALAMY/ILLUSTRATION: © LAURA HALLETT
Roseland Peninsula, enthusing over every village and cove. fishing boats in the tiny cove now number just three. The
Almost a century on, the Roseland is still a magical village trades, instead, on its dreamy beauty: you can rent a
place that rewards visitors with a sense of discovery. cottage here, or stay in The Lugger, a 17th-century inn
Bordered by the Fal estuary to the west and the Atlantic whose one-time owner went to the gallows for dealing in
to the east, this secluded enclave offers an enchanting black-market French brandy.
mix of rocky heritage coast and gentle pastoral landscapes. Slightly inland, the defining feature of picture-perfect
Journeying down the peninsula towards its wild Veryan is its round houses – circular white cottages with
headland, you pass woodland valleys cobwebbed conical thatched roofs – two of which flank the road at
with crooked lanes, villages named after Celtic either end of the village. They were built in around 1820 Previous page:
saints and solid little waterside churches. by a philanthropic local clergyman named Jeremiah Trist St Mawes Castle
Fishing villages that once heaved with sou’westered to scare away the Devil (their circular form providing no was built to the
fishermen hauling in their nets are now tranquil eyries corners in which to hide). orders of
Henry VIII
dotted with holiday homes. Portloe is one of the most Further along the coast is Portscatho, whose slipway gives Opposite:
picturesque: a cluster of Cornish granite cottages nestling uninterrupted views of the peninsula’s coastline. Its narrow Portscatho’s
prettily above a craggy cove. The village grew thanks to lanes, lined with dazzlingly white cottages, are home to little harbour
www.britain-magazine.com BRITAIN 17
CORNWALL
along the stunning, often deserted beaches of Porthbean,

Pendower and Carne.
The coast path snakes down to the peninsula’s tip,
St Anthony Head, where a lighthouse stands sentinel,
marking the entry to the Carrick Roads, the name given
to this section of the River Fal. The lighthouse has guided
ships clear of the Manacles, an infamous run of rocks,
since 1835.
This open stretch of coast has always needed protecting: PHOTOS: © REINHARD SCHMID/4CORNERS/EDUCATION IMAGES/GETTY/AM STOCK 2/ALAMY
watchmen sighted the Spanish Armada here in 1588, hastily

sending word to Sir Francis Drake in Plymouth. In the 19th
century a gun battery was built on the headland, served in
both world wars, and still stands; the National Trust run
tours of the structure, and you can visit the underground
magazine with its hand-cranked ammunition joists.
Today, nothing disturbs the peace in this remote spot,
except the occasional wail of one of the peregrine falcons
that nest in the cliffs. From the peninsula’s tip, a stunning
several independent galleries, the scenic setting having panorama unravels across the Fal estuary – the world’s
drawn a community of artists to make their homes here. third deepest natural harbour, replete with bobbing boats
From the village you can join the South West Coast – to the town of St Mawes on the other side, with its curve
Clockwise from top: Path, lined with wildflowers and windblown pines, which of whitewashed cottages.
The fishing village of
Portloe; St Mawes rambles along the cliffs between woodland and water, In season, a little ferry shuttles between St Anthony and
Castle; a round skirting hidden coves of shimmering blue. The views are St Mawes, the Roseland’s only town. Once a fishing port,
house in Veryan pretty special, but you can always drop down for a stroll it is now one of Cornwall’s most fashionable retreats, a
CORNWALL
St Mawes, one of Cornwall’s most THE PLANNER

fashionable retreats, has drawn well-to-do GETTING THERE
summer visitors since Edwardian times There are regular trains from London Paddington to Truro
station (4hr 30min), including a sleeper service. Local buses cover
the main settlements; from Truro the no. 50 bus serves Portscatho,
beguiling ensemble of whitewashed cottages, flower-filled St Just and St Mawes. www.thetrainline.com;
gardens and chic shops clustered above a little harbour. www.travelinesw.com
The town has drawn well-to-do summer visitors since
Edwardian times, and is home to the Tresanton, a former WHERE TO STAY
yachtsmen’s club and now one of Cornwall’s most The Nare is a much-loved country house hotel by the sea near
exclusive hotels. It’s still popular with visiting yachties, Veryan. Traditional and utterly charming, it has elegantly appointed
as well as the occasional film star. rooms, a comfortable lounge in which to relax with afternoon tea or
A clover-leaf Tudor castle stands guard over the western read the papers, and a top-notch restaurant with panoramic views of
end of town, with heart-stopping views of St Anthony the sea from its floor-to-ceiling windows. In St Mawes, the Idle Rocks
Head on one side and Falmouth on the other. It was built is a chic waterfront retreat with a strong foodie reputation: its new
to the orders of Henry VIII – whose name is inscribed on head chef honed his skills at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux
the walls – as part of a chain of fortresses along the south Quat’Saisons, and the hotel puts on tempting foodie breaks.
coast, to ward off attacks from Spain and France. www.narehotel.co.uk; www.idlerocks.com
Prisoners were not treated well: you can still see the
‘murder holes’ at the entrance, and the deep and narrow WHERE TO EAT
‘oubliette’ into which unfortunates were lowered. The Plume of Feathers in Portscatho is a welcoming pub and
Locals will point you towards the excellent bakery in St restaurant, serving tasty fresh seafood and Sunday roasts, while the
Mawes harbour (if your nose doesn’t lead the way first), Hidden Hut – offering tasty fare from pasties and summer salads to
Clockwise from top left: just the place to sample Cornwall’s most famous snack: the Cornish ice cream – is worth the short walk along the coast path
The St Mawes Cornish pasty. This treat of meat and vegetables encased in from Portscatho. For a treat, book a table at the Tresanton in St
Ferry crosses crimped pastry was devised in these parts as a handy meal Mawes, in its refined dining room or its pelargonium-filled terrace
the Fal estuary;
the church of St for men working down the mines. with views across to St Anthony Head. www.plumeoffeathers-
Just-in-Roseland; With lunch taken care of, you could rent a boat or kayak roseland.com; www.hiddenhut.co.uk; www.tresanton.com
Trelissick gardens to explore the Fal’s inviting creeks and inlets. Next to one
such creek a few miles from St Mawes is St Just-in-
Roseland, a reclusive little village whose ancient church
stands in a subtropical garden, with boats anchored just
yards away. A jungle of mossy gravestones, palms and
camellias slopes steeply down to the blue water, where,
as local legend has it, the merchant Joseph of Arimathea
dropped anchor with his young nephew, Jesus, on one
of several visits to Cornwall.
PHOTOS: © REINHARD SCHMID/4CORNERS/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/ANDREW BUTLER
HV Morton – still wandering the Roseland in a daze

– wrote of St Just, “I have blundered into a Garden
of Eden that cannot be described by pen or paint… Just east of the peninsula, and worth the trip, are the
I would like to know if there is in the whole of England Lost Gardens of Heligan, a wildly romantic 400-year-old
a churchyard more beautiful than this.” garden, neglected and lost after the First World War,
This hidden oasis is just one of many glorious gardens then rediscovered and lovingly brought back to life in
that flourish under the Cornish sun. Trelissick, a the 1990s; while beyond, the Eden Project is a botanical
waterfront country-house estate, is one of the National wonderland on an entirely different scale.
Trust’s flagship gardens, known for its year-round blaze Morton left the peninsula still swooning under its
of colour; Trewithen harbours one of England’s best effects: “Now and again,” I whispered as I went on out
woodland gardens and is renowned for its rhododendrons of Roseland, “just now and again one seems to touch again
and camellias; Caerhays Castle is a John Nash-designed the fringe of romance”’. Visit the Roseland and you can’t
house with a national magnolia collection; while fail to fall under its spell.
Lamorran’s Mediterranean-style idyll dazzles with
terraces, temples and 500 varieties of azalea.  For more on beautiful Cornwall, see www.britain-magazine.com
SCOTLAND
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COMPETITION
W IN A LUXURY BREAK AT
THE IDLE ROCKS HOTEL
L
ocated on South Cornwall’s stunning special dinner from Dorian’s signature menu,
Roseland Peninsula, The Idle Rocks is and he will also meet them personally and HOW TO ENTER
surrounded by secluded coves, lush scenic share his tips and expertise.
countryside and tranquil beaches. One lucky There are plenty of attractions nearby to keep
For your chance to win this fantastic
winner and their guest will be treated to a you entertained, from Henry VIII’s St Mawes
prize go to www.britain-magazine.
two-night stay at this boutique retreat, with Castle, a mere ten-minute walk away, to the Tate
a full Cornish breakfast each morning and gallery in St Ives and the must-see Eden Project, com/competitions/idlerocks
dinner on one evening. not to mention Cornwall’s world-famous beaches to apply online or fill in the coupon
Part of the Relais & Châteaux family, the hotel and coves. below with the answer to the following
enjoys an enviable waterside position and has www.idlerocks.com question:
19 individually designed bedrooms decorated
TERMS AND CONDITIONS
in breezy coastal hues. The feeling throughout Closing date for entries is 12pm GMT 14 September 2020. The prize is Q: With which king is St Mawes
is Cornish chic, with neutral tones enlivened based on two people sharing a room and is available Sunday to Thursday Castle associated?
inclusive. Booking is subject to availability, and excludes Bank Holidays,
with bright prints and eclectic furnishings. July and August. The prize must be redeemed by 14 September 2021. a) Henry VIII
This stylish bolthole has plenty of corners Travel is not included. For full terms and conditions, go to www.britain- b) Henry V
magazine.com/competitions/idlerocks
in which to relax: a terrace for cocktails before c) Edward I
waterfront dining throughout the summer; and
for cooler days and autumn escapes, the lounge ENTRY FORM
beckons with its open fire: the perfect spot for SEND YOUR COUPON TO: US readers – Idle Rocks Competition,
an afternoon of reading or a glass of champagne. C/O Circulation Specialists, 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton CT 06484
Dining at The Idle Rocks is an experience not UK and Rest of World readers – Idle Rocks Competition, BRITAIN magazine,
The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK
to be missed, as Dorian Janmaat has recently
taken over as Head Chef. Following eight years My answer:
honing his expertise at Raymond Blanc’s Name:
Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, he has
Address:
returned to his home county and created a menu
with sustainability and local ingredients at its Postcode:
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Please tick if you are happy to receive relevant information about new products or services from the competition partners via email ,
www.britain-magazine.com post , or phone , and/or The Chelsea Magazine Company via email , post , or phone
HERITAGE
To be a
PI To mark 202
here are som
IM
age,
tical
buildings that have helped shape Britain
WORDS SALLY COFFEY
I
n the Middle Ages, right up to the
English Reformation of the 16th
century – in which King Henry
VIII separated from Rome and the
Catholic Church and set up a new
Church of England of which he made
himself head – the Church wielded
more power than the king or queen.
Durham Cathedral
Its leaders were consulted by
monarchs of the day, and its
cathedrals were places where power Peering down over the River Wear from its rocky perch,
struggles were played out, loyalties this cathedral forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site
tested, and enormous wealth put along with the castle next door, from which the Prince-
on ostentatious display. The bodies Bishops of Durham ruled much of Northern England.
of saints were buried in the crypts, Built between the 11th and 12th centuries, it is widely
and people were encouraged to make considered to be the finest example of Norman architecture
pilgrimages to their shrines in the in the whole of Britain. Thick columns in the nave reach
hope of being cleansed of illness towards a spectacular Romanesque rib-vaulted ceiling,
or absolved of sins. and the monastic buildings are almost wholly intact.
With this year heralding a number Durham Cathedral is home to both the shrine of St
of important anniversaries – from the Cuthbert (the seventh-century Bishop of Lindisfarne)
800th anniversary of Salisbury and the tomb of the Venerable Bede, making the city
Cathedral to the 850th anniversary of an important place of pilgrimage for centuries. Six new
the martyrdom of Thomas Becket – long-distance Northern Saints Trails leading to Durham
we take an armchair tour around Cathedral will help Northeast England reclaim its status
some of the most important cathedrals as the ‘Christian Crossroads of the British Isles’.
in Britain to reveal secret stories and www.durhamcathedral.co.uk
proud (and not so proud) pasts.
24 BRITAIN
HERITAGE
HERITAGE
Gloucester Cathedral
In a tranquil corner of Southwest England, at the heart of
pretty Gloucester, this atmospheric cathedral is too often
overlooked by visitors. Wandering the cathedral is a lesson
in architectural history. Though much of it dates from the
Norman period, many of its more jaw-dropping details are
Gothic in style, from Early English to Perpendicular. Its
fan-vaulted cloisters are beautiful to walk beneath, while
its Lady Chapel is home to some of the best-preserved Arts
and Crafts stained glass in Britain.
For many, the primary reason for a visit is the shrine
of the murdered King Edward II. His is not the only royal
connection here – the stained glass in the south aisle depicts
the coronation of Henry III, crowned here in 1216 (p49).
www.gloucestercathedral.org.uk
Hereford Cathedral
This year marks the 700th
anniversary of the canonisation
of Thomas de Cantilupe, Bishop of
Hereford, in 1320. Cantilupe was
second only to Thomas Becket in
terms of the number of miracles
attributed to him, and his shrine
at Hereford Cathedral has long
been popular with pilgrims.
Other reasons to visit include
the 14th-century Lady Chapel and
the exquisite 17th-century Chained
Library (the primary way of
preventing book theft was to chain
books together). The cathedral’s most
precious object is the Mappa Mundi,
a map of Europe dating from around
1300 drawn on a single sheet of
velum, which shows how scholars
of the time viewed the world in both
spiritual and geographical terms.
www.herefordcathedral.org
HERITAGE
Salisbury Cathedral
This year is the 800th anniversary of
the laying of Salisbury Cathedral’s
first foundation stone, after it moved
from an earlier site called Old Sarum.
Inside you will see the oldest set
of quire stalls in Britain as well as
what’s claimed to be the world’s
oldest working clock. The cathedral
also boasts Britain’s tallest spire,
which rises an impressive 55m above
the tower – a tower tour allows you
to climb to the foot of the spire and
look up it from the inside.
The cathedral’s pride and
joy, however, is the 1215 Magna
Carta, the best preserved of the
four surviving copies of this historic
document, which is on permanent
display in the 13th-century
Chapter House.
www.salisburycathedral.org.uk
PHOTOS: © ADAM BURTON/GLYN FLETCHER /AL AMY/PJ PHOTOGR APHY/SHUTTERSTOCK /GANNET77/ISTOCK
HERITAGE
York Minster
In the centre of the walled medieval
city of York, the Minster ranks as one
of the most beautiful Gothic buildings
in the world. The official seat of the
Archbishop of York – the third
highest office in the Church of
England after HM The Queen
and the Archbishop of Canterbury
– it is suitably fancy.
Though there was a church here
as early as the seventh century,
several buildings fell into decay or
were destroyed before Walter de Gray
was made Archbishop in 1215 and set
out his vision for transforming what
was then a Norman building into a
Gothic masterpiece of glass and stone.
If we had to choose one standout
feature it would be the Great East
Window, finished in 1408, the largest
expanse of medieval stained glass in
the world. At the other end of the nave
is the Great West Window,
affectionately nicknamed ‘the Heart
of Yorkshire’ due to the shape of the
stonework at the top. It is said that
any couples that kiss beneath it will
stay together forever.
www.yorkminster.org
HERITAGE
Canterbury
Cathedral
In 2020 Canterbury commemorates
the 850th anniversary of the death
of Thomas Becket, Archbishop of
Canterbury, who was killed following
a long-standing disagreement with
King Henry II. On hearing the king
PHOTOS: © PAUL MELLING/IAN DAGNALL/ALAMY/ROMAN BABAKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK
despair “Will no one rid me of this

turbulent priest?”, four knights are
believed to have set off to Canterbury,
killing Becket in his own cathedral.
After his death people started to
attribute miracles to Becket, and
the cathedral became the final stop
on England’s Pilgrim’s Way.
Becket’s story is told in the stained-
glass windows, but long before his
time the building was connected
to St Augustine, who set up the first
cathedral here in the sixth century,
bringing Christianity to these isles.
www.canterbury-cathedral.org
Winchester Cathedral
In 1,000 years, this cathedral has evolved from a small
Saxon church into the magnificent building you see today.
Like many of Britain’s great cathedrals, Winchester was
built shortly after William the Conqueror’s victory at the
Battle of Hastings, so it has many 11th-century features,
but much of its current architectural grandeur dates from
the 14th and 15th centuries.
Highlights include the soaring Perpendicular Gothic nave
– at over 160 metres long it’s one of the biggest in the world
– and the ornate stone Great Screen that stands behind the
high altar, which dates from the mid-15th century.
The cathedral also forms part of The Pilgrims’ Way,
which once saw medieval pilgrims arriving in their droves
to pray at the shrine of St Swithun; their modern-day
counterparts come to pay their respects to one of our
most cherished writers, Jane Austen, who is buried here.
www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk
HERITAGE
St Paul’s Cathedral
The iconic dome of St Paul’s Cathedral
– the second largest cathedral dome in
the world – is as much a part of
London’s skyline as Big Ben. St Paul’s
is the magnum opus of Christopher
Wren, who rebuilt the cathedral as
well as 51 other city churches
following the Great Fire of 1666.
Despite being the first British
cathedral to be built especially for
the Anglican faith, St Paul’s has none
of the restraint of typical Anglican
churches and instead is a Baroque
masterpiece from start to finish.
Visitors with a head for heights
should climb all the way to the
Golden Gallery – the highest point
you can reach in the dome –
for unbeatable London views.
Two levels down, a quirk in the
construction of the Whispering
Gallery means a whisper into the wall
on one side can be heard on the other.
Visitors can pay homage to Wren
himself at his humble tomb in the
crypt. Its Latin epitaph translates as:
“Reader, if you seek his memorial –
look around you”.
www.stpauls.co.uk
PHOTO: © CHUNYIP WONG/ISTOCK

Over 100 Years of Army Aviation
Licenced Café
Helicopters in Action AV Show Airfield Views
Dressing Up Stations
Army Flying Memorial
Children’s Play Areas
armyflying.com 012 4 7 10
Middle Wallop, Stockbridge, Hampshire, SO20 F
Spetchley Park in
Worcestershire
Inset: An etching of Spetchley
Park was among the lots at
the recent Chorley’s auction
Treasure
IN THE ATTIC
We go behind the scenes at a very special
country-house auction and hunt for bargains
at the Cotswolds’ best antiques shops
WORDS NATASHA FOGES
HERITAGE
PHOTOS: © RICHARD WATSON/ALAMY/CHORLEY’S AUCTION HOUSE/CHRIS ATPPS/SHUTTERSTOCK

t is nearly 10am and the sale room at and Edward II met a grisly end – has piqued Second World War as the headquarters
Chorley’s, the prestigious Cotswolds the interest of collectors across the world. for Winston Churchill and his cabinet in
auction house, is abuzz. Prospective Spetchley may not boast the pedigree the event of a successful German invasion.
bidders inspect the furniture and of Berkeley Castle, but it has a significant The auction has been organised to raise
paintings arrayed around the room, history, even being earmarked during the funds for essential refurbishment and
staff ready themselves at the telephones modernisation works: “It is as it was built
and computers, while the public take a back in 1815,” explains Henry Berkeley,
seat and wait for proceedings to begin. who will make the house his home once
“From a lock of Elvis’s hair to the smallest renovations are complete. The works are
house in the Cotswolds, Chorley’s has sold vital but “It was”, he concedes, “quite a
some significant lots over the years,” says difficult decision to make.”
auctioneer Thomas Jenner-Fust, “but Finding treasure in the attic is the stuff
this particular auction is one of our of fairytales, but if your ancestors were art
most exciting to date.” collectors, acquiring widely on Grand Tours
Historic pieces from one of Britain’s throughout Europe and travels in America
greatest estates, Spetchley Park in and India, it’s not such a far-fetched idea.
Worcestershire, are being put up for sale. The Berkeleys also purchased lots through
Spetchley has belonged to the Berkeley country-house sales, most notably Stowe
dynasty since the early 17th century, and in 1848, a 29-day auction that numbered
its association with the family and with their Top to bottom: An 1824 watercolour painting by John Queen Victoria and the National Gallery
ancestral seat, nearby Berkeley Castle – Varley; Chorley’s auctioneer, Thomas Jenner-Fust among its principal buyers.
where Elizabeth I played bowls on the green Opposite: Tetbury’s vibrant yellow Market Place Country-house auctions are as popular
If you only have time to visit one town,
head to Tetbury, which has an unrivalled
concentration of antiques dealers
HERITAGE
For more
to see an things
This page clockwise from top left: Lot 14, a Limoges enamel the Cots d do in
wolds, se
draw purse; a hand-coloured plate from a volume of www.br e
‘Les Roses’; a Mughal sword with a jade handle magazin itain-
e . co m
now as they were in Queen Victoria’s

time, offering antiques-hunters the chance
to acquire a piece of British history, with
many items on sale for the first time since
they were acquired centuries ago. The dusty
attics of Spetchley Park yielded trunkfuls
of forgotten gems: 739 family heirlooms
PHOTOS: © CHORLEY’S AUCTION HOUSE/DORLING KINDERSLEY LTD/ALAMY

covering 400 years of history are to go
under the hammer in today’s auction.
The sale underway, the lots whizz by at
a fair pace. Even if you’re not in the market
for a fob watch or a silver teapot, watching
an auction is likely to set your heart
hammering. The auctioneer presides over
the room like a conductor over his orchestra,
gesturing left and right as he acknowledges
bids from phone and internet (an auction
such as this attracts online bidders from
across the world), while remaining keenly
aware of every discreet nod or shake of the
head from the floor. As bidding for each lot
reaches a crescendo, he calls a cheery but
firm “Fair warning!” before banging down
his gavel.
Lot 14 causes a stir. An early 17th-century
enamel draw purse with exquisite portraits
of a lady and gentleman (estimate: £1,500 is a post-apocalyptic tale first published in sword piques the interest of several
-2,000) sparks a furious bidding war, 1826. Although poorly received by critics, collectors, eventually selling for £7,500.
reaching an astonishing £17,000. Shelley later said it was one of her favourite Every item is a tantalising glimpse of
(“Good estimate!” jokes Jenner-Fust, works, and it clearly still has some big fans: lives lived in one of Britain’s most illustrious
who is also responsible for the valuations). valued at £1,000, it is snapped up by a Regency houses. As lot after lot goes under
Lot 87, a 17th-century “Portrait of a Lady”, collector for £6,500. the hammer, a vision of an English country
bears an uncanny resemblance to Elizabeth I, “Any good attic sale needs a ‘sleeper’ house in its prime is slowly conjured up:
with a lacy ruff and regal jewels in her fiery or two,” says Thomas Jenner-Fust. “While rooms lined with oil paintings and ticking
red hair. The frame in itself is a work of art, exploring the cellars at Spetchley my eye was clocks, Persian carpets on the floors, shelves
topped with a carved coronet and supported caught by a damaged sword standing in a of precious books and curios gathered from
by cherubs. The painting goes for £6,000. shell case. Although the Mughal jade handle all corners of the globe.
A rare first edition of The Last Man by was broken, the rusty blade had an inlaid There’s a fascination, too, in many of
Mary Shelley in three volumes, Lot 295, gold inscription.” At today’s auction, the the items as relics of a vanished age. Silver
HERITAGE
Above: A classic Cotswolds antiques shop antiques shops offer a year-round treasure
Below: 18th-century miniature of the Virgin and Child trove. If you only have time to visit one THE PLANNER
town, head to Tetbury, which has an
unrivalled concentration of dealers along GETTING THERE
Church Street and Long Street. Make a Trains run from London Paddington to
beeline for Top Banana, an antiques arcade Kemble (1hr 15min), from where you can take a taxi
across several floors covering everything to Tetbury, and to Kingham (1hr 20min), a taxi ride
from china to antiquarian books. Slightly from Stow-on-the-Wold. Chorley’s auction house is
out of Tetbury are the vast Lorfords hangars near Cheltenham Spa station, also reachable from
at Babdown airfield, with a huge selection London Paddington (2hr). www.thetrainline.com
of decorative antiques.
Stow-on-the-Wold, one of the Cotswolds’ WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
prettiest market towns, is well worth a visit The Frogmill, a beautiful 16th-century inn
in its own right, but its proliferation of nestled in the Gloucestershire countryside seven
antiques shops is a bonus. Tara Antiques miles from Cheltenham, makes a good base. It has
Centre, in a Grade II-listed building, has stylishly renovated rooms with lots of luxurious
three floors full of collectables, with plenty touches, and a good restaurant serving country
of quirky, inexpensive finds (it’s worth pub classics as well as more refined fare.
bearing in mind that if you have to ring www.thefrogmill.co.uk
a bell to enter a shop, few bargains are
stilton scoops, oyster plates bearing the to be found inside). FURTHER INFORMATION
family crest: these would once have been Back in the saleroom, it is 6pm by the time Chorley’s has several country-house sales a
everyday items on a table grandly set with Thomas Jenner-Fust steps down from the year. The Cotswolds Art & Antique Dealers’
polished silver and cut glass, Meissen podium. Spetchley’s treasures, acquired over Association (CADA) represents reputable dealers
candlesticks and enamelled tureens. centuries and (going... going... ) gone in a day, and hosts an annual antiques fair. www.chorleys.
While country-house auctions only have made over half a million pounds – and com; www.cotswolds-antiques-art.com
come up a few times a year, the Cotswolds’ a host of collectors very happy indeed.
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
Karma St. Martin’s

ISLES OF SCILLY
Open Easter to October annually, this luxurious
bolthole in an idyllic setting is the ultimate beach escape
Located on a subtropical island of white-sand Magazine for the best available rate.
beaches and crystal-clear seas, Karma St. Martin’s In 2021 the resort will be opening on 1 April,
hotel redefines the luxury European escape. This just in time for the Easter weekend. You’ll be
exclusive island is easier to reach than ever before pleasantly surprised by the hotel’s Spring Savings,
with a short flight from either Exeter, Newquay or with a selection of stunning ocean-view rooms
Land’s End to the Isles of Scilly on a 16-seater plane. and suites still available.
From here, the Cornish Caribbean awaits! Contact the team at Karma St. Martin’s to
Just steps from a breathtaking beach, the hotel reserve your ocean-view room or suite in one of
provides the perfect base for exploring the magical the UK’s best-kept secrets, just 28 miles off the
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whose elegant, inviting decor is full of luxurious
touches. Adjoining rooms are available for  For more information call+44 1720 422 368,
families, and the retreat is even dog-friendly. email reception@karmastmartins.com or visit
While away summer days dining alfresco in the www.karmagroup.com
resort’s subtropical gardens, or enjoy a meal in the
two-Rosette award-winning restaurant, perhaps
dining on fresh fish, lobster and crab straight from
the turquoise waters on the hotel’s doorstep, or
lingering over afternoon tea. Wherever you choose
to dine, you’ll be surrounded by breathtaking sea
views, in the perfect location to capture the
stunning Scilly sunset.
Following government guidelines Karma St.
Martin’s hopes to swing open its doors on 4 July
2020, welcoming back guests and visitors alike. The
hotel will be open until 30 October 2020, covering
PHOTO: © STUDIO8 LTD
half-term holidays, and the team are delighted that

demand for UK staycations has tripled in recent
weeks. The hotel is set to complete summer 2020
on a high. With limited availability, quote Britain
STATELY HOMES
A princely PLAN
When Scotland’s Dumfries House was put up for sale it was nearly lost to the
nation – until it became the personal project of HRH Prince Charles
WORDS JANICE HOPPER
umfries House, nestled in rural Ayrshire, approached but simply couldn’t take the house on.
is a special place. Its jewel-bright rooms hold a The collection and estate needed a modern-day knight in
precious collection of the furniture of Thomas shining armour – or a prince – to come to the rescue. Lo
Chippendale, the acclaimed 18th-century and behold, at the eleventh hour, a prince did indeed save
cabinet-maker best known for his mid-Georgian, English the day.
Rococo and Neoclassical styles. There are around 600 HRH Prince Charles stepped in, promising £20 million
PHOTOS: © ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL /AL AMY
authenticated Chippendale pieces in the world, with 59 from his charitable foundation and personally brokering
alone within Dumfries House. a £45 million deal to secure the estate, the house and its
Today the house is one of Britain’s loveliest stately homes, rich interiors. Work began immediately to reveal the
and a top Scottish visitor attraction – but not long ago, precious contents of this private property to the public
the estate was nearly lost to the British public for good. for the first time. Opposite: The finely
In 2007 Dumfries House and its grounds were up for “The House very quickly began to take shape as rooms restored Pewter
Corridor
sale. Its outstanding collection of furniture was to be were restored and items of furniture were re-presented, Above: The facade of
scattered, with items sold off to the highest bidder. thanks to some remarkably generous donors and 18th-century
Bodies such as the National Trust for Scotland had been sponsors,” His Royal Highness recalls. “The enthusiastic Dumfries House
STATELY HOMES
STATELY HOMES
support from local people, and from our very first guides,
was incredibly heartwarming. Everyone exuded such a
sense of optimism as to what could be achieved. This Jewel-bright rooms hold a precious collection
project has been as much about people as it has about of the furniture of Thomas Chippendale, the
a physical place.”
The house has an intriguing history. Commissioned acclaimed 18th-century cabinet-maker
by one William Dalrymple-Crichton, the fifth Earl of
Dumfries, it was the first independent commission of a
complete house for the renowned Adam brothers after Another indulgent retreat is the Family Parlour. Bright
the death of their father, William Adam. The foundation bursts of yellow silk damask from the Chippendale elbow
stone was laid in 1754 and works completed in 1759. chairs and the Alexander Peter sofa lift the light in this
Satinder Kaur, Collections Manager of the Prince’s north-facing room, while a Chippendale card table and a
Foundation, describes the elegant property as a harpsichord create a more informal family feel.
‘honeytrap’. Having lost his first wife and been left The best-preserved space is the Pink Dining Room,
heirless, the Earl was seeking a new wife, and he was ready a favourite of Prince Charles. Dinner guests would have
to invest lavishly in art and furniture in order to find one. been left in no doubt as to who built the house, as
“Crichton was a Knight of the Order of the Thistle,” a Thomas Hudson portrait of the Earl sits above the
says Kaur, “and thistles are a key decorative feature fireplace, in an ornate Adam frame. The Earl was also
throughout the house. He hoped a fine house filled with advised that an Italian Renaissance painting would be
luxurious furniture would help to attract a young bride.” in keeping with the house and his status, so Jacob and
A highlight is the Blue Drawing Room, which features his Journey by Jacopo Bassano hangs with pride in a
PHOTOS: © ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL /AL AMY
an Axminster carpet dating from 1759, a Murano glass Scottish rococo frame. Other details to savour include
chandelier and two Raeburn portraits. But it’s the rich Chippendale girandoles, a pink Murano glass chandelier Above: The Blue
blue Chippendale furniture, including two sofas and six and an Alexander Peter table, amid the intricate rococo Drawing Room
elbow chairs, that’s the star of the show. The rosewood flourishes that pepper the room. is filled with blue
bookcase is an outstanding piece because unlike most of Another highlight, the Family Bedroom, is the most Chippendale
Chippendale’s designs its design was never published, personal space. The four-poster bed is another treasured furniture
Opposite: Gilt-framed
making it unique. “It was thought that the bookcase piece because, although its design was published, only 17th-century Dutch
could reach upwards of £20 million if an auction had two examples were actually made by Chippendale. paintings hang in
gone ahead,” reveals Kaur. “The Earl did marry in the end,” says Kaur. “The the Picture Gallery
BRITAIN 43
STATELY HOMES
The wider estate offers rich pickings

for visitors, including an elegant
walled garden, an arboretum and an
intricate maze of yew hedges
The yew maze in the

grounds of the estate
A Murano glass chandelier

in the Pink Dining Room
STATELY HOMES
The Great Steward's Dining

Room with its rich red walls
The Family Bedroom features

a Chippendale four-poster
PHOTOS: © K ATIELEE ARROWSMITH/SWNS MEDIA /ANDREAS VON EINSIEDEL /AL AMY
STATELY HOMES
beautiful and wealthy Lady Mary Douglas, aged only 19, design – and anyone that shares Prince Charles’s passion
was a potential bride, but she pretended to be engaged to for architecture and conservation.
somebody else. Twenty-six-year-old Lady Ann Duff of In the Prince’s words, “I look back to those very early
Crombie eventually took the Earl’s hand in marriage, days with immense relief at the extraordinary reality
but no heir was produced, so the house passed to the that we did, indeed, save the House and its marvellous
Earl’s nephew, Patrick McDouall-Crichton.” contents.”
Today, modern matches can be made in the Tapestry
Room, which hosts occasional wedding ceremonies. The  For more on Scotland's stately homes and castles, go to
walls are adorned with four Flemish tapestries dating www.britain-magazine.com
to 1717, featuring Apollo, Bacchus, Minerva and Diana.
Brides walk down the Pewter Corridor, which has been
painstakingly brought back to life after it was painted THE PLANNER
over in battleship grey paint. Now it’s a delicately pretty
series of bays, festooned with twists and curls of bows, GETTING THERE
leaves and flowers. One bay has been conserved with its The nearest airport is Glasgow, a 50min drive away. Trains
original historic paintwork, which took specialists three from London Euston take 5hr 30min (changing at Carlisle) to reach
months to achieve. Auchinleck station, a 5min taxi from Dumfries House.
The wider estate offers rich pickings for visitors: an
elegant walled garden, an arboretum and an intricate DUMFRIES HOUSE
maze of yew hedges, and visitors can wander across the The house is usually open for daily guided tours from April
original Adam bridge and the delicate Chinese bridge, to October. Check the website for the latest information and
PHOTOS: © JOHN PETER PHOTOGR APHY/AL AMY
recently constructed to a design of 1899. Keep an eye timings. www.dumfries-house.org.uk

out for the little Doocot – a dovecote built in 1671
– and the woodland shelters designed by students WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
on the Prince’s Foundation educational schemes, There’s a café on site, and the Woodlands Restaurant dishes
then constructed by its trainees. up a hearty Sunday lunch, featuring meat reared on the estate and
The story of the house’s survival and restoration is as vegetables grown in the kitchen garden. Discreet five-star lodges,
Above: The Chinese
bridge on the remarkable as its prized Chippendale collection. Saved for furnished with antiques, allow you to prolong your visit with a stay
Dumfries House future generations to enjoy, the estate is a fascinating place in the grounds.
Estate for anyone with an interest in history, antiques, art and
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HISTORY
ENGLAND’S
forgotten
KING
Henry III’s peaceable, pious nature was far from the ideal of a medieval king,
and his reign was beset with conflict – but what was his true legacy?
WORDS NEIL JONES
HISTORY
IMAGES: © ALAN KING ENGRAVING/WORLD HISTORY ARCHIVE/ALAMY/BRITISH LIBRARY BOARD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES/WERNER FORMAN/GETTY
his year marks the 800th anniversary of in Lincolnshire. The ceremony was rather makeshift but
the coronation of King Henry III. Held a repeat performance on a grander scale with new regalia
at Westminster Abbey in 1220, it was a could wait.
dignified occasion, followed by a sumptuous The most immediate concern was to gain acceptance
feast including some 40 oxen and 4,000 of the boy king across the country and for this he had the
roasted chickens. Yet it was also an odd moment because ideal regent to support him: William Marshal, a valiant,
Henry had already been crowned four years earlier at highly respected knight who had already loyally served
Gloucester: one of numerous curious aspects to the life three kings, and who now vowed, whatever happened,
of a ruler who today is largely forgotten, even though to “carry [Henry] on my shoulders step by step”.
he reigned for a remarkable 56 years (1216–72). Such stirring declarations were swiftly followed
Most people simply recall Henry as the ‘weak king’ by practical actions, including the issue of a letter in
pitched against ‘dashing’ Simon de Montfort in the Henry’s name that turned his youth to advantage by
Barons’ War. But there was much more to his eventful distancing him from his father’s quarrel with the barons
life than this. He was just nine years old when his father, “since it has nothing to do with us”. Magna Carta,
Previous page: King John, died in October 1216, leaving little Henry a which set out various rights and responsibilities of ruler
Henry III was King of country in the throes of civil war with the greater part of and ruled as well as matters of justice and taxation
England for 56 years eastern England in the hands of Louis of France and rebel (accepted then rejected by John), was re-issued, and
This page, left to right: English barons. The outlook appeared bleak for the by the time Marshal died in 1219 law and order had
An illuminated golden-haired child. been greatly restored.
manuscript
depicting the However with his unpopular father now out of the Unfortunately this promising start was not to continue,
coronation of Henry way, Henry offered the prospect of a more biddable as Henry became the pawn of competing factions. Even
III; the first recorded sovereign and, luckily, sufficient barons and bishops in 1227 when, aged 19, he assumed direct rule, he was
use of St Edward’s were persuaded. The “pretty little knight” Henry, in still swayed by various mentors whom it took him some
crown was at Henry Gloucester at the time, was rushed to the cathedral. time to shake off.
III’s coronation
Opposite: Here he solemnly took the coronation oath before being In 1236 he married Eleanor of Provence in
Henry III’s tomb in crowned using his mother’s bracelet or torque, since John Canterbury Cathedral and began showering her and
Westminster Abbey had managed to lose his crown jewels while campaigning her French relatives with jewels, titles and property.
HISTORY
Crowning everything was Henry’s life project

to rebuild Westminster Abbey, in which his
own tomb would be placed near the shrine
of his hero, Edward the Confessor
HISTORY
Such generosity also extended to the French family

of his remarried mother Isabella, many of whom Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester,
swarmed to his court, causing angry resentment among
the English barons. The historian-monk Matthew Paris had enjoyed great favour from Henry,
noted: “the king was reproached with advancing and
enriching the interests of all foreigners, and with
who both admired and mistrusted him
despising and pillaging his own natural subjects,
to the ruin of the whole kingdom.” consult and which in turn would answer to parliaments
Although Henry reaffirmed the terms of Magna Carta sitting three times a year.
several times, he did not particularly abide by them. In the Henry’s brother-in-law, Simon de Montfort, had emerged
barons’ eyes Henry, like John, was taxing them to the hilt, as leader of the barons behind the political manoeuvre.
ignored their counsel in favour of foreign advisors and A charismatic Frenchman, now Earl of Leicester, he had
squandered money on vain overseas military campaigns. enjoyed great favour from Henry, who both admired and
IMAGES: © KUMAR SRISKANDAN/CHRONICLE/ALAMY
Henry’s dreams of rebuilding the Plantagenet empire mistrusted him. The king, Matthew Paris noted, had
evaporated as he formally surrendered most of England’s once admitted to Simon: “The thunder and lightning
remaining rights in France to the French king, while airy I fear beyond measure, but by God’s head, I fear you
notions of going on Crusade dwindled to nothing. more than all the thunder and lightning in the world.” Opposite: The
Matters came to a head in 1258 at a meeting of Just as John had reneged on Magna Carta, so Henry Round Table at
councillors in Oxford (later called the Mad Parliament), wriggled to free himself of the Provisions, complaining: Winchester Castle
Above: Simon de
at which Henry was made to agree to audacious reforms. “You English want to hurl me from my throne as you Montfort is killed
The so-called Provisions of Oxford proposed government did my father.” Civil war returned. at the Battle of
by an elected Council of Fifteen that the king had to In 1264 Simon defeated Henry at the Battle of Lewes, Evesham
HISTORY
HISTORY
took the king’s eldest son Edward hostage, and for a year could also have drawbacks: on one visit to see the French
effectively ruled the country through his baronial council king, Henry’s insistence on hearing mass from every priest
while Henry was reduced to a figurehead. During this time he encountered on the journey resulted in him being so
Simon broadened parliament beyond the ranks of nobles late that on the next visit all priests were removed in
and bishops to include knights from the shires and advance from the royal route.)
burgesses (local officials) from important towns – Meanwhile French influences on Henry’s court, decried
a bid for popular support and a historic milestone in the at the time, encouraged a flowering of English art and
evolution of Parliament. Any revolution was short-lived, culture, and chivalric and Arthurian romances reached
however, because Edward escaped captivity and routed a peak during his reign. Henry’s love of architecture saw
Simon’s army at Evesham in 1265. Simon, killed in the him build one of the earliest Gothic-styled medieval halls,
process, instantly morphed into a folk hero and lodestar at Winchester Castle, and rarely a year went by without
for representative government. works at the Tower of London where, incidentally,
For the last seven years of his reign Henry largely left he established a zoo that included lions, a polar bear
government to Edward, while he pursued his lifelong and an African elephant that Londoners flocked to see.
IMAGES: © MARTIN BEDDALL/ALAMY/BENOITB/ISTOCK/STEPHEN DOREY
passions in the arts and religion. Henry may not have Crowning everything, however, was Henry’s life project
been a great statesman nor lived up to the medieval ideal to rebuild Westminster Abbey in the new Gothic style
of the strong warrior king, but a loving family man he did of architecture. It almost bankrupted him and caused
produce in his son – later King Edward I – an heir who political grumblings, but yielded stunning results
would be both. The seed of representative government including the unique, geometrically patterned Cosmati
planted in Henry’s reign would also slowly grow. pavement symbolising the universe and its end. Most Opposite:
Perhaps later centuries can more readily appreciate importantly, there was a new shrine for Henry’s hero, The Cosmati
Henry’s human virtues and legacies too. Preferring peace St Edward the Confessor, near which Henry’s own tomb pavement at
to war, he was not a good soldier but he was a good would be placed. He died aged 65 in 1272 and the abbey Westminster Abbey
negotiator, concluding treaties that established borders stands as his most eloquent memorial. Top left: Engraving of
the death of Henry III
and alliances with Scotland (1237) and Wales (1247). Top right: Statue of
He was greatly inclined to charity and piety, and in 1244  For more on the kings and queens of England, King Henry III at
alone dispensed 240,000 meals to the poor. (His piety see www.britain-magazine.com Lichfield Cathedral
CULTURE
FACT
or
FICTION
75 years since the publication of Brideshead Revisited, we tour the
‘real’ Brideshead, and stop off at other locations thought to have
inspired the most famous homes in literature
WORDS ELEANOR DOUGHTY
he tale of Brideshead Revisited, the house in 1937, but it wasn’t until

Evelyn Waugh’s iconic novel publication of his friend Christopher Sykes’
about the English aristocracy, biography in 1976 that the connection was
which celebrates its 75th made. “I fancy that a strong contribution
anniversary this year, is one as old as was made by Castle Howard,” wrote Sykes.
time. Middle-class boy meets charming And so Castle Howard became Brideshead
aristocrat, falls in love… to say any more for an 11-episode series in 1981. For so
would spoil it. But Brideshead is more many of the 220,000 people that visit Castle
than just a story about Charles Ryder. Howard every year, Brideshead is real.
It is a story of a house, Brideshead Castle. One might presume that if Brideshead was
Today, Brideshead is best associated Castle Howard, then the Flyte family of the
with one house: Castle Howard in North novel – the Marquess and Marchioness of
Yorkshire, home of the Howard family for Marchmain and their children – must be
over 300 years. Built by Sir John Vanbrugh, the Howards. But Waugh had in mind
it took over a century to complete. In 1978 the Lygon family of Madresfield Court in
PHOTO: © LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK
television production company Granada Worcestershire, having known the two elder
asked to film an adaptation of Waugh’s novel sons – William, Viscount Elmley, and the
at the house, for Castle Howard was the Hon. Hugh Lygon – from Oxford. They had
closest house they could find to Brideshead. four sisters – Ladies Lettice, Sibell, Mary
Castle Howard in A Baroque house was needed, and few and Dorothy – and a younger brother, the
North Yorkshire,
location for the had the necessary dome, says Dr Christopher Hon. Richard, whose granddaughter lives
television adaptation of Ridgway, curator at Castle Howard. “That at Madresfield today.
Brideshead Revisited ruled Castle Howard in.” Waugh had visited Waugh first visited Madresfield in 1931,
BRITAIN 57
For so many of the 220,000 people that visit
Castle Howard every year, Brideshead is real
shortly after William Lygon, 7th Earl post”, Jane Mulvagh explains in
Beauchamp, had been exiled to Europe, Madresfield: the Real Brideshead. She
having been exposed as a homosexual disliked guests, and only “liked babies until
by his brother-in-law the 2nd Duke of they are two”, according to Lady Sibell. She
Westminster. Lord Beauchamp’s exile – was, her granddaughter said, “one pheasant
and his wife’s departure to her brother’s short of a brace”. And so the dysfunctional
PHOTOS: © ITV/REX FEATURES/EMILY MARIE WILSON/SHUTTERSTOCK
estate – had left the children with the Flytes were born.
run of the medieval manor. Similarities ran deep between the Flytes
Life at Madresfield was grand. The front and the Lygons. The heirs Elmley and Bridey
doors did not have locks on them, for the both married widows, while Lady Mary
house had never been left unoccupied, and ‘Maimie’ Lygon, a potential wife of the
the family travelled from Madresfield to future George VI, had, thanks to her
Highclere Castle in
their house on Belgrave Square by private father’s scandal, a “faint shadow on her Berkshire, location for
train. Lord Beauchamp addressed his that unfitted her for the highest honours”, Downton Abbey
children by their titles, but read kindly as Waugh writes of Lady Julia Flyte. Above left: Granada’s
to them. Lady Beauchamp spent her time Both Hugh Lygon and Sebastian Flyte production of
correcting “the titles by which she was carried a teddy bear around Oxford, while Brideshead Revisited
aired in 1981
addressed on the envelopes of that day’s Lady Beauchamp found a twin in the
CULTURE
CULTURE
“She kissed the house and told us it was her

favourite place,” remembered du Maurier’s
daughter of Menabilly
“pious” Lady Marchmain. Waugh’s friends Rashleigh family since the 16th century,
spotted the connections. Nancy Mitford put and Milton Hall, the Cambridgeshire
it simply: “It is the Lygon family.” home of the Fitzwilliam family.
But Madresfield itself was not Brideshead. “She kissed the house and told us it
The house of Waugh’s imagination had a was her favourite place,” remembered
terrace that “stood on massive stone du Maurier’s daughter Flavia Leng of
ramparts above the lakes”, while Madresfield Menabilly. Du Maurier had visited Milton
is moated, with crow-stepped gables. Inside, during the First World War, recalling that
“the visitor tumbles unexpectedly – like “the drive curved, and suddenly it was before
PHOTOS: © MORLEY READ/ALAMY/POPPERFOTO/GETTY
Alice – from a small room to a huge one us, long, grey-walled, stone, stretching
and then on to a tiny one”. Charles Ryder endlessly”. On the first page of Rebecca,
describes life at Brideshead as an “aesthetic du Maurier credits this grey stone,
education”, while Sebastian notes that it is “shining in the moonlight of my dream”.
Menabilly in
“where my family live”, and not, as Charles PG Wodehouse’s most famous fictional
Polridmouth Bay near reflects, “my house”. house, Blandings Castle, make its first
Fowey, Cornwall Daphne du Maurier was similarly appearance in Something Fresh (1915):
Above right: Novelist influenced by houses she knew well. Writing “Against the pale gray sky Blandings Castle
Daphne du Maurier Rebecca in 1938 she had two houses in mind stood out like a mountain. It was a noble
inside Menabilly
– Menabilly in Cornwall, home to the pile, of Early Tudor building.”
CULTURE
The gardens of Sudeley

Castle in the Cotswolds
Below: Golden gates at
Chatsworth House
in Derbyshire
Many houses have been named the is the rightful Downton.

inspiration for Blandings – including Sudeley Others have made hay. Despite
Castle in Gloucestershire, home of Lady Chatsworth House in Derbyshire featuring
Ashcombe. “PG Wodehouse lived in in its own right in Jane Austen’s Pride and
Cheltenham and would have seen Sudeley,” Prejudice (1813), it has become the house
says Derek Maddock, Sudeley’s archivist. best associated with the novel’s Pemberley.
PHOTOS: © GLENN BEANLAND/GETTY/CHRISTIAN H GOMEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK
The burial place of Catherine Parr, it was This link – spurred on by the house’s
built in 1441, and with its rose garden and appearance in a 2005 adaptation of the
lake, it is a worthy Blandings. Alas, there is novel – is one of many reasons 600,000
nothing concrete to suggest that Blandings people visit Chatsworth every year.
was inspired by Sudeley. “We’d love there Still, it scarcely matters if we can’t
to be,” says Maddock. match up fictional houses to their real-life
Few houses remain tied to their fictional counterparts. Waugh’s cautionary epitaph
counterparts forever. Highclere Castle in to Brideshead is clear: “I am not I: thou art
Berkshire, home of the Earl and Countess not he or she: they are not they.” Ridgway,
of Carnarvon, and the location for ITV’s Castle Howard’s curator, goes further.
Downton Abbey, might be the exception. “You could also say, ‘it is not there.’”
But if Julian Fellowes was directly inspired
by a house owned by Lord Grantham,  For more on Britain’s stately homes,
then Newby Hall in North Yorkshire see www.britain-magazine.com
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WEEKENDER
Deal, a small town

on the Kent coast
Below: Deal’s long
shingle beach
D AL
or generations the Kentish coast far as to write that the “barbarous hated
has provided seaside fun for weary name of Deal shou’d die”.
Londoners needing a break from the You’ll disagree as you wander through the
city. Facing France from Kent’s quiet east Georgian Old Town, a delightful cluster of
coast, Deal is a well-kept secret that offers simple fishermen’s cottages and townhouses.
a particularly British combination of quaint Looking for a weekend Make sure to pop into the Deal Museum,
PHOTOS: © GORDON BELL PHOTOGRAPHY/ISTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK/JIM HOLDEN/ENGLISH HERITAGE TRUST/CLUBFOTO

and quirky, with a heritage that takes in crammed with displays and domestic
smugglers and shipwrecks, Tudor castles
getaway with laidback charm? ephemera focusing on maritime history.
and illicit aristocratic dalliances. And then This quaint seaside town Charming Middle Street was the main
there’s the beach, a vast, steep stretch smuggling thoroughfare; for a completely
of shingle where you can sit for hours
is just the ticket different slice of local history, head for
listening to the waves. WORDS SAMANTHA COOK no. 117, where a blue plaque commemorates
Today’s gentle pace belies the town’s Carry On film stalwart Charles Hawtrey
colourful past. In 1278 Deal became a limb who spent his bohemian old age here.
port, linked to southern England’s ‘Cinque You can raise a pint to this English eccentric
Ports’ – a confederation of coastal towns at the nearby Ship Inn, with its creaking
that provided maritime services in return Georgian interior – British pubs don’t get
for trading privileges – and grew to become more traditional than this.
among the busiest in England, famed for its Next stop should be the sea, with a walk
expert boat builders and sailors. via Beach Street’s row of sorbet-hued 18th-
Partly due to the nearby Goodwin Sands, and 19th-century buildings to the pier. It
a sandbank ten miles out to sea, the town may not be beautiful, but this 1026ft-long
was notorious for shipwrecks, and by the concrete-clad steel structure, built in 1957,
1700s it was also renowned for smuggling. is undeniably striking and provides a
Hard to picture today, but in the 18th peaceful stroll over the water. Patient anglers
century this was a lawless place; Daniel wait for fish to bite, while the pier-end café
Defoe in his 1704 essay The Storm went so offers expansive views of town and horizon.
WEEKENDER
For more
to see an things
dd
Kent , see o in
www.
magazibnritain-
e . co m
The pier at Deal Beach

Above: Walmer Castle
and Gardens
tiny but fascinating. Its Tudor rose shape was
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
designed to safeguard the fortress against
cannon fire, with semicircular inner bastions GETTING THERE
protecting the thick-walled keep. In fact the Trains run from London St Pancras (journey
castle’s defences were never truly tested; find time 1hr 30min); the station is ten minutes’ walk
out more by exploring its empty rooms and from the seafront. www.thetrainline.com
passages, dotted with exhibits on the
building’s history. EAT, DRINK, SLEEP
Walmer Castle, another of Henry’s forts, Deal has a handful of comfortable guesthouses,
built on a stretch of coast that is said to have as well as stylish self-catering options such as Georgian
seen Julius Caesar’s first landing in the UK, townhouse The Lady Hamilton, and a vintage-style
is a 30-minute walk from Deal along a broad boutique hotel, The Rose. History fans should make for
seafront path. In 1708 Walmer became the the Royal Hotel, where Admiral Nelson and Lady
Further along the seafront, the Timeball official residence of the Lords Warden of the Hamilton are said to have stayed during their passionate
Tower started out in 1820 as a semaphore Cinque Ports; these have included William affair; if you’re in the mood for romance, plump for a sea-
tower, tracking local smuggling operations. Pitt the Younger, the Duke of Wellington, facing room with balcony. Both hotels have restaurants,
The timeball was added in 1855: ships Winston Churchill and HM Queen Elizabeth but as Deal abounds in good places to eat you may want
anchored at sea would use the sight of the the Queen Mother. Today this fine stately to explore. On the seafront, try 81 Beach Street for fine
ball dropping down a pole to tell the time home is filled with their effects, while the dining, and the Black Douglas Coffee House for locally
before embarking on long journeys. Displays glorious eight acres of grounds include sourced food in informal surroundings. Frog and Scot, on
inside illuminate maritime communications lovely themed gardens. the High Street in the Old Town, offers an acclaimed
through the centuries. Heading back to town, you could crunch Modern European bistro menu. www.mulberrycottages.
Deal has two castles, built by Henry along the shingle beach, scattered with com; www.therosedeal.com; www.theroyalhotel.com;
VIII in a coastal chain of artillery defences colourful fishing boats. And why not pick www.81beachstreet.co.uk; www.frogandscot.co.uk
established to repel invaders from Catholic up a bag of salty, fresh-fried fish and chips
France and Spain. At the southern edge of to eat as you go? A delightfully informal and FURTHER INFORMATION
town, squat Deal Castle, built in 1539, is very British classic – much like Deal itself. www.whitecliffscountry.org.uk
Yorkshire
MOORS
’ s
& SHORES
Equal parts mystical moor and secluded seashore, the Yorkshire coast beats
some of Britain’s more traditional summer destinations hands down
WORDS JENNY ROWE
RURAL BRITAIN
T he best-known surviving Victorian pleasure piers in England may be at

Brighton and Blackpool, but Saltburn-by-the-sea in North Yorkshire has one
too, and an original Cliff Lift to boot. Likewise, Dorset’s Jurassic Coast isn’t
the only fossil-hunter’s paradise on the block: try Yorkshire’s Dinosaur Coast
PHOTOS: © DARRYL GILL/RICHARD BOWDEN/ALAMY/ILLUSTRATION: © MICHAEL A HILL
at Staithes. And although visitors flock to Devon on the trail of Sir Walter
Raleigh and his Golden Hind, just over a century later in 1728, Captain James
Cook was born to more humble stock in the unassuming Yorkshire village
of Marton. He would go on to achieve national hero status too, as the first
European to chart New Zealand and the Great Barrier Reef of Australia.
Yorkshire is formidable – England’s largest county, with a population bigger
than Scotland – but it is a gentle giant. Perched respectfully on the shoulder of
York and its acclaimed Minster is the North York Moors National Park – one
of three National Parks in Yorkshire – adjoined to the Howardian Hills, one
of three Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Though many don’t give North
Yorkshire’s softly spoken claims to fame the time of day, it is here that you can
get a feel for what the county does best.
Rugged moorland sweeps right up to the North Sea shoreline at the red- Previous page:
Sunrise at Staithes
roofed fishing villages of Robin Hood’s Bay, Staithes and Ravenscar. Moor Right: The view of
and shore are not just neighbours here: they cohabit the ancient landscape Robin Hood’s Bay
in resolute harmony. from Ravenscar
68 BRITAIN
Moor and shore are not just
neighbours here: they cohabit the
ancient landscape in resolute harmony
The perfect place, then, to build Rievaulx Abbey,
the first outpost of the Cistercian order in the north of
England, founded in 1132. The monks chose a plot of
land deep in the Rye valley on the North York Moors,
surrounded by camouflaging woodland. Nowadays, it is
one of Britain’s most complete abbey ruins, yet its secluded
location makes it lesser known than nearby Fountains
Abbey, Yorkshire’s first World Heritage Site. Its
reticence only amplifies its magnificence, as you
glimpse its elegant arches rise out of the treetops.
Another famed monastic house at this postcode is
Whitby Abbey. These dramatic ruins inspired Bram Stoker
to pen Dracula, his 1897 Gothic horror novel. Stories of
this genre, popular at the time, were often set in foreign
lands full of creepy castles, convents and caves. Yet the
atmosphere on this exposed cliffside was obviously spooky
enough for Stoker. Scraps of Whitby are scattered
throughout the book: the famous 199 steps up to
the abbey; the name of Dracula’s first victim, ‘Swales’,
lifted from a grave at St Mary’s Church next door; and
the name of Dracula himself, which Stoker stumbled
upon while researching in Whitby library.
The charming harbour town is well worth a visit in
its own right. You might even be lucky enough to spot a
whale offshore – boat trips run through the summer and
autumn months. Before you leave, visit the Captain Cook
Memorial Museum within the building that once belonged
to Quaker shipowner Captain John Walker, to whom
James Cook was apprenticed at 18. From here, Cook set
off on his first voyage – not quite as intrepid as his later
expeditions: a trip carrying Tyne coal down to London.
PHOTOS: © DANIELRAO/ISTOCK/NICK GREAVES/ALAMY
It was at Staithes, though, a small village just north

of Whitby, that Cook’s seafaring dreams were sparked.
Left: A steam train
chugs through the At the time it would have been one of the largest fishing
National Park along ports on the North East coast, but now all is quiet. The
the North Yorkshire Staithes Beck estuary is a wellspring of calm within its
Moors Railway maze of narrow streets and tiny, hotchpotch cottages,
Above: Hundreds of making it one of the most picture-perfect of Yorkshire’s
Common and Grey
seals live around the cove communities.
cliffs and beaches at Heading further south, but before you reach the
Ravenscar village headland heavyweight of Scarborough, stop off at Robin
BRITAIN 71
Whitby Abbey
towers over the
town’s harbour,
where crab is a
regular catch
Below right: The
Kilburn White Horse
RURAL BRITAIN
Hood’s Bay. Its secret alleyways and tunnels were once

the veins through which a lifeblood of booze and tobacco
flowed into the basements of public houses and the secret
closets of entrepreneurial seamen, who would sell the
clandestine goods on the black market in order to avoid
paying hiked-up wartime taxes. French lace and tea were
among the illicit goods that flooded here in 1799,
when ‘Smugglers’ Town’ was at its most prolific. It is
thought that so many of the residents were involved in
the subterfuge that it was possible to pass a bale of silk
from shore to moor without it ever seeing the light of day.
If you’re looking for less delinquency and more deck
chair, aim for Scarborough. There were plans to transform
Ravenscar, a village you’ll pass en route, into a popular
seaside resort like Scarborough; roads and a handful
of fine houses were built, but it never really caught on.
Instead Ravenscar is known for its thriving seal colony,
which provide quite the spectacle when they venture
ashore to pup during the summer and autumn months.
From the mid-18th century onwards, Scarborough,
PHOTOS: © STEVEGEER/ISTOCK/MIKE KIPLING PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY

meanwhile, did burgeon into an established holiday
destination. Highlights include the medieval Scarborough
Castle; the Grand Hotel, which has proudly adorned the
South Bay since 1867; and the nearby Spa Bridge, which
was built in 1826 to connect St Nicholas Cliff to the Spa
– a promenade in the sky.
Then meander inland to explore some of the moorland
market towns in the area. Helmsley (market day is Friday)
and Pickering (Monday) should make the list, while
Malton puts on Yorkshire’s most renowned food market
every second Saturday, its stalls heaving with local produce
from 35 specialist food suppliers.
The dramatic ruins of Whitby Abbey
inspired Bram Stoker to pen Dracula,
his 1897 Gothic horror novel
The ruins of
Whitby Abbey
Top right:
Scarborough
Castle overlooks
the Old Town
With your shopping bag (or stomach) full, retire to
THE PLANNER Scampston Hall and Walled Garden close by. Tours of
the Hall are led by Sir Charles Legard – part of the family
GETTING THERE AND AROUND who live there – and his team. Without any of the usual
LNER operate several trains from London King’s Cross to York ropes and red tape, it’s a real treat, allowing an intimate
(2hr). From there you can explore the cities, coast and countryside on rendezvous with the house’s French-style Regency
Northern Rail, who offer good-value Day Ranger or Round Robin interiors. The kitchen garden, set within the original
tickets. For a heritage steam train experience, catch the North walls, opens onto a rolling, landscaped 18th-century
Yorkshire Moors Railway from its southern terminus at Pickering, park characteristic of ‘Capability’ Brown’s design. Another
where the station has been restored to its 1937 condition. The must-see walled garden nearby is at 900-year-old Helmsley
24-mile route through the National Park will get you to Whitby in Castle, where filming has just taken place for The Secret
just less than two hours. www.lner.co.uk; www.northernrailway.co.uk; Garden (to be released in August 2020).
www.nymr.co.uk Now (though you wouldn’t know it) you’re practically
in Rievaulx Abbey’s backyard again. The Kilburn White
WHERE TO STAY Horse, the largest and most northerly hill figure in
Pickering is an ideal base right on the edge of the Moors. The England, is also nearby. A walk along the escarpment
award-winning Georgian B&B 17 Burgate House will provide every edge will do its impressive size proper justice.
PHOTOS: © NEAL RYLATT/ISTOCK/IAN DAGNALL COMMERCIAL COLLECTION/ALAMY
luxury for you here. Alternatively, stunning sunset sea views of Robin A stone’s throw from here is the distinctive half-cone-
Hood’s Bay can be enjoyed at the charming Victoria Hotel, which shaped hill, Roseberry Topping, which, if you prefer
was built in 1897. www.17burgate.co.uk; www.victoriarhb.com your walks with a helping of history, might better suit.
Captain Cook is known to have roamed its rocky summit
WHERE TO EAT while working for his father on Aireyholme Farm near
Officially the UK’s Best Fish and Chip Restaurant as of 2019, Great Ayton.
Trenchers in Whitby is a must-visit. Get yours to take away so you Having marched the untrodden hills of the North York
can enjoy hot salty chips harbour-side. The higher-end Bay Tree just Moors from a young age, it’s perhaps not surprising that
south of the Howardian Hills is the perfect place if you’re after Cook found its shores, similarly raw and clam-like, an
friendly fine-dining. www.trenchersrestaurant.co.uk; irresistible advertisement for a lifetime of exploration at
www.thebaytreeyork.co.uk sea. Even today, unfolding North Yorkshire’s treasure map
of landscapes and landmarks at all corners can require
MORE INFORMATION time and patience, but the rewards are boundless.
www.yorkshire.com
 For more on Yorkshire, see www.britain-magazine.com
BRITAIN 75
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Due to Covid-19 we cannot

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the time being we are
showcasing on our website
only.
Although we do a lot of
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When this is all over, we
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�� Or call (+44) 01386 897 959 for our 2020 brochure
CITY GUIDE
TOP 10
BRISTOL
Combining a centuries-old history and a creative spirit, lively Bristol is ripe for exploring
WORDS KEITH DREW
osmopolitan and contemporary, as Bristol was originally known, to grow, and

Bristol is one of the most exciting brought transatlantic trade to its harbour,
cities outside of London, known for enabling the city’s mercantile class to flourish
its relaxed café culture, dynamic music scene and, in turn, bestow on its skyline a range of
and ever-changing street art. But this is also striking buildings and magnificent churches.
a city with Georgian ensembles to rival The regenerated Harbourside still retains its
neighbouring Bath. A destination for fans of importance and is the best place to start
PHOTOS: © TOMS AUZINS/SHUTTERSTOCK/ILLUSTRATION: © LIZ KAY
heavyweight museums and independent art exploring the city.

galleries. And a place where you’ll find – in the More than any single district or specific sight,
SS Great Britain, Clifton Suspension Bridge and though, it is the creative, community-minded
Temple Meads Railway Station – some of the spirit that defines Bristol – evident more than
finest work of Britain’s most illustrious engineer. ever in recent months, when attractions like
As significant as Isambard Kingdom the SS Great Britain and Aerospace Bristol
Brunel’s impact on Bristol may have been, provided online educational activities to help
it is the River Avon that has largely shaped with home-schooling, while several of the city’s
the city’s history. Its tidal waters helped the best restaurants ganged together to provide
Anglo-Saxon trading centre of Brycgstow, food for its most vulnerable.
SS GREAT BRITAIN
The second of three
“great” ships that
Brunel built in
Bristol, the
SS Great Britain was the
fastest ocean-going steamer
of her time, crossing the
Atlantic from New York to
Liverpool in just 14 days.
Now back in the dock
where she was built in 1843,
the ship and the adjoining
Dockyard Museum offer
an interactive insight into
life on board. You can
even climb the rigging!
www.ssgreatbritain.org
2
BRISTOL CATHEDRAL Bristol
Cathedral began life in 1140 as St
Augustine’s Abbey, later converting
into a collegiate church before becoming,
with the Dissolution of the Monasteries
in 1539, a fully blown cathedral. The
cathedral’s choir, the highest in England,
forms part of a German-style “hall church”
that the architectural historian Nicolaus
Pevsner called “superior to anything
else built in… Europe at the same time.”
bristol-cathedral.co.uk
3
ST NICHOLAS MARKET This vibrant market epitomises Bristol’s
creative, independent spirit. Set within John Wood the Elder’s
Corn Exchange, built in 1743 to house merchants trading in the CLIFTON
surrounding streets, the market features stalls selling everything from SUSPENSION
vintage clothes and records to pastries from Pieminister, a city institution. BRIDGE Brunel’s
www.bristol.gov.uk iconic Clifton
Suspension Bridge links the
genteel suburb of Clifton
with Leigh Woods, on the
opposite side of the Avon
Gorge. Work began on the
bridge in 1831 but wasn’t
completed until 1864, five
years after Brunel’s death.
The views, from nearly
250ft above the River Avon,
are sublime, and at night
the bridge is illuminated
with over 3,000 light bulbs.
www.cliftonbridge.org.uk
78 BRITAIN
M SHED Occupying a huge old
transit shed in the city’s revitalised
harbour, M Shed traces the history
PHOTOS: © QUINTIN LAKE/M SHED/URBAN BUZZ/CHRIS DORNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK/FOTOGRAFO/CHRIS HEPBURN/ISTOCK/JORGE TUTOR/ALAMY/VISIT ENGLAND
of Bristol, and its people, from the

Triassic period up to the present day, with
important exhibitions on its emergence as
a powerhouse port and its role in the slave
trade sitting alongside works by local street
artist Banksy. Outside are cargo cranes,
a steam engine and a fire-fighting boat
that saw action during the Bristol Blitz.
www.bristolmuseums.org.uk
CABOT TOWER Designed in 1897 by William

Venn Gough, Cabot Tower commemorates
the Italian explorer John Cabot’s discovery
of North America 400 years previously (his
voyage to Newfoundland set sail from Bristol)
and affords wonderful views across the harbour and
along the River Avon. The tower crowns Brandon Hill,
believed to be the oldest public park in the country.
www.bristol.gov.uk
7
GEORGIAN HOUSE MUSEUM The former home of
sugar merchant and plantation owner John Pinney, the
six-storey Georgian House Museum sheds an intimate
light on what life was like above and below stairs in late
18th-century Bristol, including an exhibition on Pero Jones,
the Pinneys’ enslaved valet who was bought, aged just 12,
in the West Indies and served the family for over 30 years.
www.bristolmuseums.org.uk
BRITAIN 79
CITY GUIDE
BRISTOL OLD VIC Founded

on King Street in 1764, THE PLANNER
Bristol Old Vic is the oldest
continuously working theatre GETTING THERE
in the English-speaking world. At its Trains run regularly from London Paddington,
heart is the Theatre Royal, a beautiful taking around an hour and a quarter. Buses connect
Georgian building that was granted Bristol with numerous cities across the UK,
its royal licence by George III in 1778. including Cardiff, Leeds, London, Manchester,
bristololdvic.org.uk Nottingham and Newcastle.
www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk; uk.megabus.com;
www.nationalexpress.co.uk
WHERE TO STAY
Occupying an 18th-century sugar factory,
Hotel du Vin Bristol City Centre – there’s another
outpost overlooking the Suspension Bridge in
Clifton – epitomises the best of this boutique chain:
lots of lovely dark-wood decor with luxurious
touches such as freestanding baths. There’s
also an excellent in-house restaurant.
www.hotelduvin.com
9
AEROSPACE BRISTOL
Set on an old airfield in WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Filton, five miles north Bristol’s dining scene is the finest in the South
of town, Aerospace Bristol West. For a meal that sums up the city, book a table
charts the city’s contribution at Box-E in a trendy harbourfront development.
to flight, from World War I The cosy space – there are just 18 seats – and
reconnaissance planes through personable service match the simple but superb
to the space race. The star menu of Modern British dishes.
attraction is Alpha Foxtrot, For a drink, head up to the backstreets of Clifton
the last Concorde to fly – to The Coronation Tap, a centuries-old local
the supersonic transatlantic favourite that produces its own (super-strength)
planes were built in Filton. cider and has an excellent reputation for live music.
aerospacebristol.org www.boxebristol.com; www.thecoronationtap.com
ASHTON COURT
ESTATE The deer-
filled grounds of
Ashton Court Estate
PHOTOS: © MR STANDFAST/STEVE TAYLOR ARPS/ALAMY/JON CHAMBERLAIN
make up Bristol’s
largest country park. The stately
mansion at its centre hosts weekend
art exhibitions, but most visitors are
here to picnic, play pitch-and-putt
golf or explore the woodlands on
two wheels. The estate hosts Bristol’s
spectacular annual International
Balloon Fiesta each August.
www.bristol.gov.uk
HIDDEN GEMS
Waterperry Gardens
Oxfordshire is blessed with many stunning gardens, but the story of Waterperry,
Beatrix Havergal’s old school for lady gardeners, gives it a unique appeal
WORDS LAWRENCE ALEXANDER
J
ust outside Oxford, Waterperry Gardens looks like any other The garden consists of several ‘rooms’, ranging from the very
pretty garden open to the public. What it represents, however, formal, with topiary hedges, statuary, canal-ponds and pergolas, to
is something very special. Begun as a teaching garden by pioneer the shady woodland ‘river walk’ following the tranquil waters of the
Beatrix Havergal, it trained female gardeners at a time when men Thame, a tributary of the river Thames. In Miss H’s day students
dominated the business, and those that trained here were women messed around in Piglet, a little rowing boat, in their lunch hour.
who wanted to garden as a living, instead of dabbling in The rock garden was once the domain of ‘Sebbs’ (Miss Ebbs)
horticulture as something nice to do before getting married. who planted it with rare alpines and bulbs. Today both it and
Born in 1901, Beatrix and her partner Avice Sanders founded Waterperry’s fabulous collection of saxifrages are both attractions
their women’s horticultural college in 1927, moving to Waterperry in their own right.
in 1932. The girls lived in the mansion, were waited on at tables and The stock beds were essential parts of the garden in Miss
enjoyed musical evenings – but the work was hard, mornings were Havergal’s day. Students were expected to keep the ‘stock’ of flowers
early and men were strictly forbidden. The last rule never worked in tip-top condition. They still supply the gardens and plant centre.
out too well; there were far too many drainpipes and haylofts. Possibly the most famous part of Waterperry, however, is the
Although a stickler for perfection, ‘Miss H’ was loved as well as orchard. Miss H adored the cordon fruit trees in the ‘angle orchards’,
respected and although the school closed in 1971 when she became named for their sloping appearance. They are filled with sixty
too old to teach, the gardens have been saved. They are still worked different varieties of apples and almost as many pears. Managed by
by people who knew her. Pat Havers, the Head Gardener, learned Chris Lanczak, who trained under Miss Havergal, these sturdy,
from one of Miss Havergal’s star pupils, and uses techniques reliable trees provide enough fruit for sale, juicing and preserves.
PHOTO: © JON BOWER UK/ALAMY
created by Miss H. The extraordinary herbaceous border remains There is one absolutely-don’t-miss feature: the ‘family tree’. This
spectacular all summer long thanks to a system of invisible supports is Chris’s own project, a single tree onto which he has grafted sixty
created by Pat each spring from branches cut from the estate. varieties of apple. It is at its most spectacular in spring, when the
As early flowers, such as lupins, anchusa and geraniums die, mid- blossoms are a riot of pinks and whites, and in autumn, as green,
season delphiniums, achilleas, verbascums and phlox replace them, red, orange and yellow apples cover the tree with colour.
followed by the later-flowering Michaelmas daisies and goldenrod. www.waterperrygardens.co.uk
Book
now for
Chelsea
wer Sh ow
Fl o
2021
THE ENGLISH GARDEN TOUR SPECIALISTS
Let’s take a journey to England. Across the magnificence of the Cotswolds and Sussex in Spring.
Through quaint English villages and floriferous displays to spectacular historic estates and private
hidden gems. Not to mention, a selection of the greatest flower shows in the world.
Immerse the senses. Relax with tea. Feel inspired.
Violets & Tea specialise in providing tailored and small group luxury tours of English gardens.
We invite you to make your next holiday memorable.
WWW.VIOLETSANDTEA.COM • TOURS@VIOLETSANDTEA.COM

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BRITAIN

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE

TRAVEL CULTURE HERITAGE STYLE AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE

OPEN UNTIL 30 TH OCTOBER 2020

E : reception@karmastmartins.com • T : +44 (0)1720 422 368 • karmagroup.com

@BRITAINMAGAZINE and coast, is surely the loveliest of them all

TRAVEL CULTURE HERITAGE STYLE

REGULARS Publisher Caroline Scott

Big shows on the small screen, virtual tours SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES

IN THIS ISSUE www.chelseamagazines.com/shop

Drive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484. Periodicals postage

Buy a gift ticket now and visit later.

with gorgeous photographic illustrations to

“Fantastic read, kept me enthralled to the last page.”

If Necessary Alone is the second thriller in the series. Clement

“A thriller full of tension, treachery and twists.

The third book in the series is coming soon.

In Spite of All Terror and If Necessary Alone are available

Miscellanea www.miscellanea.co.uk The Sculpture Park

Live from lockdown

Method: Warrior: A Life of War

n 1926, while on a tour of the country that he

along the stunning, often deserted beaches of Porthbean,

watchmen sighted the Spanish Armada here in 1588, hastily

St Mawes, one of Cornwall’s most THE PLANNER

HV Morton – still wandering the Roseland in a daze

— 2021 ESCORTED TOURS —

703.941.6455 • www.CelticJourneys.us • Email: Judy@celticjourneys.us

despair “Will no one rid me of this

PHOTO: © CHUNYIP WONG/ISTOCK

Helicopters in Action AV Show Airfield Views

Army Flying Memorial

Children’s Play Areas

PHOTOS: © RICHARD WATSON/ALAMY/CHORLEY’S AUCTION HOUSE/CHRIS ATPPS/SHUTTERSTOCK

now as they were in Queen Victoria’s

PHOTOS: © CHORLEY’S AUCTION HOUSE/DORLING KINDERSLEY LTD/ALAMY

Karma St. Martin’s

half-term holidays, and the team are delighted that

The wider estate offers rich pickings

The yew maze in the

A Murano glass chandelier

The Great Steward's Dining

The Family Bedroom features

recently constructed to a design of 1899. Keep an eye timings. www.dumfries-house.org.uk

We look forward to seeing

Tapestry Kits produced by Diana Fernsby from the

Crowning everything was Henry’s life project

Such generosity also extended to the French family

he tale of Brideshead Revisited, the house in 1937, but it wasn’t until

“She kissed the house and told us it was her

The gardens of Sudeley

Many houses have been named the is the rightful Downton.

1 year (6 issues): UK £19.95 US $39.95 Canada $44.95

Deal, a small town

PHOTOS: © GORDON BELL PHOTOGRAPHY/ISTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK/JIM HOLDEN/ENGLISH HERITAGE TRUST/CLUBFOTO

The pier at Deal Beach

T he best-known surviving Victorian pleasure piers in England may be at

It was at Staithes, though, a small village just north